Reddit reviews Wagner Spraytech 0503008 HT1000 Heat Gun, 2 Temp Settings 750ᵒF & 1000ᵒF, soften paint, caulking, adhesive, putty for removal, shrink wrap, bend plastic pipes, and loosen rusted nuts or bolts

That's not a hair dryer, that's a heat gun. They can get up over 1000F, hot enough to burn lots of things...

This has been brought up pretty often on this subreddit, and I feel like there is a division between two main theories on the problem:

• It's a software glitch / bad reporting / excessive app or system use.
  
• It's a hardware malfunction.
  
  I was in the same situation (very similar screenshot) and was told by a Google representative after a few e-mails back and forth that I was out of my warranty period. I finally got fed up with it enough that I bought a new battery and replaced it a few days ago. As others who have also replaced their batteries have said, it truly is like having a brand new phone. I highly recommend it, though the process is a pain in the ass. Being concerned anytime the phone is below 60% battery is no way to live, especially when it drops to that point so quickly after being taken off charge.
  
  Battery - $8.99 Amazon Prime; comes with opening tools but does not include a precision knife.
  
  Replacement back glass camera cover - $7.99 Amazon Prime; because the battery did not come with precision knives and I am not a patient man, so I clearly broke the glass.
  
  Precision knife - $3.58 add-on item; plan ahead. Don't be like me.
  
  Heat gun - $19.97 Amazon Prime; you can use a hair dryer but this is a ton easier.
  
  Tutorial
  
  If you decide to go ahead with it, best of luck.

Hair dryer gets up to around 150 degrees on the highest setting. Maybe if you have a really weird crazy one you are getting 180-200 degrees?

This is 30 dollars and can get a stream of heating piping out at 1000 degrees.

https://www.amazon.com/Wagner-Spraytech-0503008-Heat-Gun/dp/B00004TUCV

You're hair drier is not even in the same ballpark.

So last weekend my father decided he needed a hand replacing the carpet in his basement with hardwood, so I ended up spending a few hours scraping up crappy vinyl tiles. For the most part three decades of apathy towards maintenance meant that they came up relatively easily, but there were a couple of patches of relatively recent tiles stuck down with better adhesive. After 40 minutes spent peeling up about a square foot with a mallet and a putty scraper he wandered by with one of these (though his is a 1700 watt model, and gets up to about 1400 Fahrenheit). 30 seconds of aiming it at the edge of a tile and the glue softened enough to pry up several inches. A minute and the tile itself softens up. Point it at the wall from a distance of 18 inches or less and the paint begins to look scorched in moments. Within half an hour we finished the rest of the floor.

Not really big enough to make significant inroads into a manhole, but I suspect they make scaled-up versions.

/u/Speshuls - using these two items from Amazon, I have never had a bottle leak ever - Heat Shrink Neck Wrap Bands and Heat Gun. If you have Amazon Prime you could have 500 of the bands and the heat gun to apply them for less than $35 with free 2 day shipping. If not it might cost slightly more for shipping, I'm not sure though.

I totally agree about the Morphe palettes! I hate having three of them but can't tell them apart unless I pick them up. For depotting, I used two tools. I used a double sided metal spatula and a heat gun. With the spatula, one end is flat and the other end has an angled tip. That tip made it super easy to get in under the shadows. The heat gun can be found here: amazon.com/Wagner-0503008-HT1000-200-watt-Heat/dp/B00004TUCV/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1450719185&sr=1-4&keywords=heat+gun.



What I do is first push the spatula under the edge of the Morphe palette to begin to separate it from the actual case. Once the edges are lifted as far as I can without forcing it too much, I grab my heat gun. I put it on the lowest setting and concentrate it under one of the shadows. You will begin to see it pop out. That's when I take the curved end of the Spatula to slowly begin to pull it off the glue. So long as you let the heat do the work for you, it comes off easy. If it doesn't want to pop up, let it warm up some more. Then, just keep doing it to the others. The glue on the Morphe palettes can be rolled right off and honestly I only had three or four pans that I had to roll off the backs. Their pans are not magnetized so you will need the magnet stickers. When you pick up the pans, they will be hot. I used a paper towel to pick them up. Be careful not to touch the surface of the shadow until its cooled down or you will knick the top of the shadows. I hope that helps! :-)

Less blow and more heat. Like this http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-0503008-HT1000-200-watt-Heat/dp/B00004TUCV

Used to remove paint, bend plastic and stuff.

I have done this.

I just used a hot-glue gun to attach the crayons to some MDF I had lying around (painted white), then melted them with a heat gun like this.

The heat gun seemed to give much better results than a hair dryer because there is less air moving and a higher heat, which seems to equal less chance of splatter. Don't do this on paper, you need something more solid so the melting crayon doesn't warp the surface. I know most craft stores sell canvases for relatively cheap, or go the MDF painted white route for a heavier (but sturdier) piece.

I have also tried the melting-crayon-in-a-glue-gun method, but didn't really like the results as much.

I use a heat gun. Just like a looft lighter but cheap.

Use Heat, Scotty Peelers, and GooGone.

Surprised no one has mentioned how I like to do it. I use a heat gun on the outside of the window where the 3M pad is. I have a family member hold it there as I pull on the mount from inside the car. Eventually the mount pulls right off, without any residue left. The pads are left in good enough condition that they sometime even affix again.

I bought this thing back in 2013 for $20 and used it for several years. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004TUCV/

I got a torch at the beginning of summer and have used it since.

$40 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019CQL60/ , and $27 for 3 bottles of propane (might be cheaper locally).

It's just markedly better.

We spend so much money on our hobby and know the harm of damaged wraps.

When I did my first rewrap, I found that the hairdryer I thought would work didn't produce heat. So I bought this best purchase I could have made.

Dude,
https://www.amazon.com/Wagner-0503008-HT1000-200-watt-Heat/dp/B00004TUCV/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486263218&sr=8-1&keywords=heat+gun

Seriously, it's going to be your most beloved tool. I use mine daily.

Roasting with a popcorn popper has some significant downsides, namely you're limited to roasting a very small quantity at a time and have no heat control (some poppers don't even put out enough heat to properly roast a bean). The typical benefit for popcorn popper roasting is that you already have a popcorn popper that you don't use for popcorn so why not?

If you're going to spend $20 to roast, I'd highly recommend a hot air gun to use with a metal bowl. You can observe the roasting process with your eyes/ears/nose, and do larger (but still small - ~1/2lb at a time) batches.

To start working with eva foam, all you need is some foam floor mats (this is cheapest at Harbor Freight if you have one nearby), a box cutter, a rotary tool and adhesive. I like to use contact cement and finally a heatgun You may also want a sharpener since foam dulls blades really fast.

Here's a pretty simple tutorial by Will Morgan on how make a dagger.

I also have a more in depth tutorial on how to make a Fallout 10mm pistol out of foam

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: this heat gun


|Country|Link|Charity Links|
|:-----------|:------------|:------------|
|USA|smile.amazon.com|EFF|
|UK|www.amazon.co.uk|Macmillan|
|Spain|www.amazon.es||
|Canada|www.amazon.ca||
|Italy|www.amazon.it||




To help donate money to charity, please have a look at this thread.

This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

I have this sealer and [this roll of tube] (http://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/S-5869/Shrink-Film-Tubing/14-x-1500-100-gauge-Shrink-Tubing) and [this heat gun] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004TUCV) that I picked up to do a run of 100 board games.

All three are great, but I don't use them any more. I'm not willing to ship them (just too heavy), but if you're local to Boston by chance, we should talk.

With the right tools, charcoal can be just as fast as propane, but it requires you to cheat.

After seeing how awesome the BBQ Dragon is, I realized i could accomplish the same thing with a Wagner Heat Gun for much cheaper.

I put my chimney on a metal plant stand. I rigged the heat gun with metal clamps so it blows through the charcoals from underneath. It's often ready in 5-10 minutes.

For me, the real issue with charcoal is cooling. It takes a couple hours for the fire & heat to die down. Flavor is worth it though.

Not the creator, but if I had to guess she went with the EVA foam floor matting method. All you need is a hot knife, a heat gun, and these cheap pieces of floor matting.

Hot Knife:
http://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X73780-Precision-Soldering-Knife/dp/B000BRBZUG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1347514744&sr=8-1&keywords=exacto+soldering

Heat gun:
http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-Power-Products-503008-200-Watt/dp/B00004TUCV/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1347514769&sr=1-1&keywords=Heat+gun

EVA Foam mat:
http://www.amazon.com/We-Sell-Mats-Interlocking-Anti-Fatigue/dp/B001EJPGG4/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1347514787&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=EVA+foam+mat

I'd recommend glass, some binder clips to hold it to the bed, Elmer's purple glue sticks for adhesion, a heat gun if you live somewhere like the South and it takes forfuckingever for things like glue stick to dry (I don't have this exact one but I'm sure it'll work just fine), and a spray bottle of water and squeegee to clean all of that off every few of prints.

Also as everyone else suggested, a Pi 3 for Octopi. I'm using a 32 GB microSD that I had laying around. Just send prints from Cura to Octopi! A camera is pretty cool for time lapse shots too! I'm pretty sure this is the one I've been using, but I really don't like the one mount I've found for it so I'm going to switch to my Logitech C615 after my daughter goes to bed and I can fuck around with my setup... ;P

I don't need this completely, but it would help out a lot when I sleeve cables. Not burning my fingers on the lighter and heat shrink would be nice.

Or this

No need to spend $45+

I have this one Wagner HT1000 works great for heat shrink on Low setting

http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-0503008-HT1000-200-watt-Heat/dp/B00004TUCV/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1451922518&sr=1-4&keywords=heat+gun

I don't think you are my wife, so I'll make a couple suggestions.

Do you know what kind of a camera he has? Here are a couple possible answers: Xiaomi Yi, Mobius. If he has one of these, he may be happy to upgrade to a GoPro.

What kind of quadcopter does he have? Does he fly fast and low to the ground, or high and slow to take pretty videos? This could help us make recommendations.

Here's a cheap tool that would make a good stocking stuffer: Irwin Industrial Tools 2078300 8-Inch Self-Adjusting Wire Stripper with ProTouch Grips https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OQ21CA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_hKlCwb2TJVW66

Have you ever seen him use a lighter or fire to heat up heat shrink? If he doesn't have a heat gun, that would be a good gift. Here is an example of one:
Wagner 0503008 HT1000 1,200-watt Heat Gun https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004TUCV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_GLlCwbAQPAKS4

Thanks! In order to bend the tubes you need a heat gun, something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Wagner-0503008-HT1000-200-watt-Heat/dp/B00004TUCV/ref=sr_1_6?s=apparel&ie=UTF8&qid=1497451741&sr=8-6&keywords=dewalt+heat+gun
I would just get the cheapest one that you can find. You will also need a silicon insert to place inside the tubing to keep the shape while you make your bends. I used the one that came in this kit https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-hd-tube-d-i-y-kit-10and12mm
but you can probably find the insert alone for cheaper since I didn't end up using the saw included in that kit.

I ended up using one of these https://www.amazon.com/Capri-Tools-MiniKlinge-Cutter-Quarters/dp/B01DCHA3RC/ref=sr_1_cc_7?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1497452239&sr=1-7-catcorr&keywords=tubing+cutter

In order to get cleaner cuts. If you don't get the bend perfect the first time you can always take it back over to the heat gun and make any minor adjustments that are needed. The fans that I purchased came in a three pack that included a fan controller that supports up to six fans. I mounted the controller on the inside of the case because I didn't like how it looked anywhere else, but you can stick it on the case anywhere you want.

Oboy, I'm probably the wrong person to ask. However, /u/BriThePiGuy recommends Joe Knows Electronics boxes, and /u/NeoMarxismIsEvil recommends the following:

> I would order some cheap assortment kits from people on aliexpress. These are the sort that come with like 10 of most common values of resistor, capacitor, etc.

> Other stuff:

> - WeMos d1 mini or mini pro
> - small i2c OLED displays
> - small LCD display
> - tacswitches (buttons)
> - SPDT switches
> - 74HC595 and 74HC165 shift registers
> - either bidirectional logic level shifter modules or mosfets and resistors needed to make them
> - 7 segment led displays (individual)
> - 8x8 led matrices
> - various environmental and physics sensors (often come as a kit of 20+ different modules)
> - extra breadboards
> - jumper wires
> - male and female header strips (for modules that lack pins)
> - cheap breadboard power supplies
> - voltage regulators (both LDO ICs and buck converter)
> - possibly some 4xAA or 4xAAA battery holders
> - trim pot assortment

> Those are just ideas. Some things like 7 seg led digits are pretty cheap and worth having a few of but not terribly important if you have a real display of some sort.

I personally like the assortment of bits I got in my Sparkfun Inventor's Kit, but found that I wanted more of the following:

• Jumpers, though it's since been recommended to me that I just use solid-core 22 AWG wire so I bought this wire kit and these automatic strippers
  
• Breadboards, both self-adhesive and solderable, and maybe some mini ones of each type.
  
• LEDs (RGB and single-color)
  
• A good selection of potentiometers and trimpots, both slide and radial, plus knobs for them if applicable
  
• More buttons of varying types, both clicky and quiet momentary ones (here's a quiet button that's nice)
  
• A good multimeter and maybe some extra probes
  
• Some power supplies, both 12v and 5v. Here's one that's supposed to do both simultaneously, but you'll need a molex plug (which Sparkfun inexplicably doesn't carry) unless you want to strip the end. You might also want some barrel jacks, and this cheap extension cable provides the male end.
  
• A variable power supply would probably also be very useful, but I haven't yet invested in one of those so I can't make a recommendation at this time.
  
• A good selection of resistors
  
• Alligator test clips, plus some with pigtails for prototyping on a breadboard with components that won't fit in those little holes
  
• Some heat shrink tubing and a heat gun that you should only use on the lowest setting for this purpose. When selecting heat shrink tubing, pay attention to it's shrink ratio and what size it'll end up being when you're done.
  
• A soldering kit and some solder. Note that all solders aren't created equal but the one I linked is supposed to be decent.
  
• If you get into larger gauge soldering (for home or automotive wiring), a propane torch will be handy, but you can get something like that for $20 with a propane tank at your local hardware store
  
• Some project boxes

http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-0503008-HT1000-200-watt-Heat/dp/B00004TUCV

Oh, any reliable heat gun should work. I use this one
Wagner 0503008 HT1000 1,200-watt Heat Gun https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004TUCV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_O9K1wbP1G0Y21

I read that too, I will say that the stickers are VERY sticky. I hit mine with a heat gun (this one specifically, although I'm sure others do the trick) for about 15 seconds and then slowly pulled from the corner while keeping the heat on the edge. Worked like a charm without any residue or tearing.

The reason why I hate glossy black plastic. I only did the inserts on the doors and the 2 little ones behind the steering wheel.

I used the heat gun to heat up the edges of the inserts to soften them a bit, so the wrap could be pushed up and behind using the squeegee. You'll need to use a razer to cut the wrap by the door handle though.


Buy extra wrapping and take your time. Or pay someone to do them lol.

Gunmetal grey wrap

Heat gun


Squeegee

While $55 does seem a little high for a magazine release with the amount of engineering, marketing, and production the price is reasonable, especially if you do not want to register.

There is also the Patriot Mag Lock for $45 or the classic Prince50 for $17

Where are you finding grip wraps for $150? a Monsterman Grip is $45
an Exile Machine Hammerhead Grip is $30

If you want a Thordsen FRS-15 or a Hera Arms Featureless Stock Then you will be spending ~$150

Of course you could make your own Kydex grip wrap for $11 plus [hardware] (https://smile.amazon.com/Kydex-Holster-Black-Eyelets-Count/dp/B00NKOX0B4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483519643&sr=8-2&keywords=kydex) and a heat gun

Heat gun like this normally used for stripping paint / general home repair will do just fine. Heat from the back evenly and the parts will be in acceptable condition. Should be less than $30. I've got some ram and PCI slots here that I unsoldered using a comparable heat gun to troll people with. ("You really unsoldered each one of those pins by hand!?") It's also really handy to re-use the jacks, headers, and connectors for other projects.

Would this one work?

http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-0503008-1000-200-watt-Heat/dp/B00004TUCV/

Heat Gun

/r/cosplayers is better for questions and advice

I️ just got into doing the HG/DB method from researching this sub. Can’t tell you how my roasts have turned out as today was the first batch, but here’s my set up. The slow feeder bowl is supposed to distribute the heat better. I️ also have an air popper but am not fond of the small batch size.

OurPets DuraPet Slow Feed Premium Stainless Steel Dog Bowl https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NJ4PVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4fMbAb2RD4M8H

Wagner Power Products 503008 HT 1000 1,200-Watt Heat Gun https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004TUCV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KhMbAb9GGK7NX

I use this day in and day out. Does its job and never fails.

Another option would be to use a heat gun.

http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-0503008-1000-200-watt-Heat/dp/B00004TUCV/