Reddit Reddit reviews WD-40 Specialist Contact Cleaner, Quick-Drying Spray, 11 OZ

We found 44 Reddit comments about WD-40 Specialist Contact Cleaner, Quick-Drying Spray, 11 OZ. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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WD-40 Specialist Contact Cleaner, Quick-Drying Spray, 11 OZ
ELECTRICAL CONTACT CLEANER SPRAY. WD-40 Specialist Electrical Contact Cleaner Spray is ideal for removing oil, dirt, flux residue, and condensation from sensitive electrical equipment. This quick drying, residue-free formula is safe on metal and plasticTASK SPECIFIC SOLUTION. WD-40 Specialist offers easy solutions for specific problems. WD-40 Specialist line is designed with industrial strength quality and extreme penetration for your hard to solve issuesBLAST AWAY DEBRIS. Blast away oil, dirt, flux residue and condensation from sensitive electronics and electrical equipment with pinpoint precision. It's ideal for use on printed circuit boards, controls, switches, precision instruments and electric panelsSAFE TO USE. This precise and specific formula is safe to use on plastic, rubber, and metal. It is 50-state VOC compliant and the Smart Straw Technology allows for the ultimate precision for even the most sensitive componentsREFINED RESULTS. WD-40 Company has been around for over 60 years and has never stopped their innovative mindset. The WD-40 Specialist product line has been refined to perfection so you get the results you need with ease
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44 Reddit comments about WD-40 Specialist Contact Cleaner, Quick-Drying Spray, 11 OZ:

u/MorningFrog · 99 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I too had this issue, and completely fixed it with some electrical contact cleaner. Compressed air didn't work, I had to use this stuff. You lift up the rubber base of the sticks and spray this stuff in there on all the sides, wiggle around your sticks a bit to get it all around in there, let it dry for a an hour and then they'll be back to normal. I have to repeat this process every few months depending on how often depending on how much I'm using my switch, but it's super easy and takes very little time. I still have the same can of cleaner, and it seems like it has plenty left in it.

u/2old2care · 14 pointsr/audiophile

It looks beautiful, obviously stored in good conditions. I'm not sure how it works, but my bet is it will take very little to get it going. The tubes are likely OK because these amplifiers are used very few hours compared to commercial equipment. The main thing to check is the filter capacitors. The other capacitors and resistors are likely OK if it's been stored in an air conditioned area. Also, changes in values of these will not cause damage when the unit is powered up. It will likely be necessary to clean all the controls and switches, too.

Having restored a lot of older equipment, here's what I would do before turning it on:

  1. With the unit out of the cabinet and disconnected from power, use an ohmmeter to be sure you don't have a short from the "hot" terminals of the four main electrolytic filter capacitors (the ones mounted on top of the chassis with the tubes) and chassis ground. With an analog ohmmeter, you should be able to reverse the test leads and see a "kick" when you first touch the terminal. Reverse again, kick again. This shows the capacitors are not "open". After a few seconds, the resistance should be above about 50K ohms. Also carefully inspect the unit for anything that may look burned or discolored. (If you don't have a high resistance or get the kick, you'll need to ohmmeter-test the capacitors individually. This means they will each have to be disconnected, and things get more complicated.)

  2. Carefully remove the tubes and plug them back in, one at a time. Be sure they are always in the same socket they came out of! It's a good idea to remove and replace each tube several times to remove oxidation. The sockets for these tubes are self-wiping so this action tends to clean the tube pins and restore solid connections. It's not a bad idea to wash the tubes carefully with dishwashing liquid, rinse them fully and let them completely dry. You could also wash the removable tube shields while you're at it. This will remove dust and help keep the tubes cool and potentially remove leakage paths that can cause electrical noise.

  3. If above seems OK, remove the rectifier tube (I think a 5U4 or 5R4--but it's the largest tube and the only one that starts with a 5). Be sure the fuse is OK (check with an ohmmeter), then plug it in and turn it on. You should see all the tube filaments and pilot light come on. This will confirm that the tubes and power transformer are likely OK. Be aware that from now on, there are LETHAL voltages in this amplifier! Treat it with respect! Don't touch anything inside when the power is on, and be wary that the filter capacitors can hold high voltages for a considerable length of time after the unit is turned off and unplugged.

  4. From here on, the question is, "How brave are you?" Before you power it on, connect a speaker to each of the output terminals - 4, 8, or 16 ohms as applicable. If in doubt, connect the speakers to the 8-ohm terminals. This is important because tube amplifiers always need a load, and because you can hear any hum or noise that may be present.

  5. If the previous tests passed, I'd be inclined to give it a full power-on check, but being ready to pull the plug quickly if needed. At this stage, the mostly likely thing to happen is a dramatic failure of a filter capacitor, usually in the form of some hissing noises and bad-smelling smoke. This will happen about 5 seconds after you plug in the power. If you pull the plug at the slightest hint of a problem, there won't be a lot of damage other than the capacitors that are already bad. If it's a really serious problem, the fuse on the back will probably blow at this point.

  6. If you don't want to do the smoke test as described, you can try bringing up the voltage to the amplifier gradually using a variac, starting at about 30-40 volts, gradually bringing it up to a normal 120 volts if there is no smoke or noise. This makes the smoke test slower and more controllable. A cheaper test is to wire a 60-watt light bulb in series with the AC power cord. When you switch on the power, the lamp should come up to near full brightness in a few of seconds, then get dimmer, then after about 15-30 seconds come up to to maybe half brightness. If that seems OK, set the input to PHONO and turn the volume all the way up. You should be able to hear at least some noise in the speakers. A quiet hiss is good, a low hum is ok. A loud hum is not OK. If you get a 120 Hz. hum, that's caused by bad filter capacitors and you'll need to replace them. If it's a 60-Hz hum, it may be something else and may go away with a proper input connected.

  7. If it passes the smoke test and doesn't blow the fuse, you're probably good to go with testing it with real audio sources. You should count on cleaning all the switches and controls with a good contact cleaner. It's also effective to pull outward on volume and tone controls as you rotate them from end to end a few times to clear away oxidation.

  8. It may or may not be worthwhile to "recap" the amp (replace all the capacitors). While this may help performance, it's equally possible that a working all-original unit that has not been modified in any way will have higher resale value. In my experience, it's best to replace as few parts as possible. In high quality equipment like this, component failures are actually pretty rare and the resistors and capacitors used were surprisingly stable.

    I recently refurbished a 14-tube receiver from 1964 and all it required was a good cleaning. Absolutely no tubes or capacitors were bad.

    Good luck with the project!!
u/SchmidtOutaLuck · 9 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Spray this stuff under the flap and it fixed the drift: WD40 Company 300554 Specialist Contact Cleaner Spray - 11 oz. with Smart Straw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AF0OFVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_g27JDbR7VP0TY

u/jwheeler726 · 7 pointsr/synthesizers

Take knobs off fader

Get WD-40 electrical contact cleaner, spray it on a qtip and scrape the gunk out. You can use a bunch of this stuff and even directly blast it in the fader channel. It evaporates very quickly.

Then, get silicone grease on another qtip and use the tiniest amount to lube the fader. A little of this goes a long way. Too much and you’ll end up with more debris.


https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00AF0OFVU/


https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-92003-Lubricating-Translucent/dp/B0081JE0OO/

u/aicss · 6 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

There was a post about this a couple of weeks back. People recommended this cleaner because it is safe for the plastic. Also if you look at the joycon carefully you will see a little plastic flap that can be lifted, you need to lift that flap and spray the cleaner under it. So far since using the spray linked above I haven't had an issue, however I really haven't been playing my switch enough since to properly test (sekiro is taking all my time).

u/Bumpy_Waterslide · 5 pointsr/NintendoSwitch
u/christopherira · 5 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Don’t spray canned air into it. Make sure it’s contact cleaner for electronics. This is the one I used and it has fixed 2 of my joycons: https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00AF0OFVU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=wd40+electrical+contact+cleaner&qid=1557692939&s=gateway&sprefix=wd40+&sr=8-2

The rubber flap can be propped up with a little object like a toothpick or safety pin (just be careful), and spray the contact cleaner into it, rotate the stick a few times, and let it dry.

u/LovingShmups · 4 pointsr/consolerepair

Best move here is to use special electrical contacts oil.
I'm living in Europe, so I'm using a European brand (actually French...)
: http://www.kfsolution.fr/kf/KFproductdetail.csp?division=&product=F%202%20SPECIAL%20CONTACTS&ilang=fr&plang=fr

You have different brands in USA, like this one :

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00AF0OFVU/ref=olp_twister_child?ie=UTF8&mv_size_name=0

Most of the time, it will cost you 15 USD / EUR (without transport).
You could find those special electrical contacts oils in a good electronic component shop, if you live a big city.
I have one bottle for now 8 years so you can use a bottle for many years !!
Believe me : it changed a lot of things for me :
N64 cartridge working again, unrecognised joypad on PSX... recognized, boring USB key.. working again, etc.
On your picture, your cartridge isn't clean !
Take a q tip, put some special oil on it and.... clean. do this with 2 Q tips for a good measure.

Spray some oil on your 62Pins Slot, inside the SNES , and you are good to go.
Except for the battery, cartridges can last practically forever....

u/ClassicDomtastic · 4 pointsr/HollowKnightMemes

For people who have problems with their JoyCons drifting, I highly recommend trying this. This is not a permanent fix by any stretch of the imagination; however, after attempting numerous different fixes this has easily shown the best and longest lasting fix for JoyCon drift.

u/mlvisby · 4 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I never had the drift but I do use my pro controller more. I heard spraying this stuff into the joystick part fixes a lot of drift problems.

u/jonnydoo84 · 3 pointsr/wallstreetbets

This isn't horrible. $25 gift card, but more importantly, it should be the version2 switch with better battery life - https://slickdeals.net/f/13642192-nintendo-switch-v2-25-amazon-promo-credit-298-99?src=frontpage

if you buy it and actually use it enough you'll probably want this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AF0OFVU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

then follow this.
https://nintygamer.com/switch-controller-drift-fix/

u/HubbaDubba2017 · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AF0OFVU/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl this is the perfect fix for drift more people need to know about it

u/MoogleMan3 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Next time use contact cleaner; not wd40. I use this. Good stuff.

u/lilcthecapedcod · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

For the joycon's drifting, I found a little spray from WD-40 specifically their ELECTRICAL CONTACT CLEANER (not their other stuff which would melt plastic), really helped eliminate the drift. This is what i used, its $6.75 on amazon right now, which is much cheaper than $70 for new joycons

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AF0OFVU/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/ShaneHaleyPhoto · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Here's a link to the spray I use

​

I spray it under the little flap thing of the joycon(no disassembly) and let it dry for an hour and it's back working!

u/snowball_in_hell · 2 pointsr/GuitarAmps

Look for a bad bias resistor on the driver card, bad/broken solder joint on the wires leading to the diode mounted on the heat sink, or (most likely) a bad output transistor.

Check and spray for corrosion at every connection you can get at as well.

u/fomoloko · 2 pointsr/gadgets

Electronics cleaner worked for me. No issues in 3-4 months of moderate use.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AF0OFVU?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Just shoot it under the rubber dust covers and let it dry for 20-30 min

u/zephyrus256 · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

There's a rubber covering at the base of the analog stick, just lift it up, poke the plastic straw on the nozzle of the WD-40 electrical contact cleaner can under it, and spray it. Don't go crazy, just make sure to get a little bit on all sides. Also, make sure to use the WD-40 electrical contact cleaner, not regular WD-40. Here's a link to the correct product on Amazon. If your drift is caused by dust or dirt getting into the analog stick, this should fix it. However, if it comes back, then the stick itself is worn out and you'll need to send it in to Nintendo for repair.

u/JRockPSU · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Not all joycons who wander are lost.

Seriously though, try some electrical contact cleaner, use a toothpick or tiny flathead screwdriver to pry up the dust cap under the analog stick (it's a very thin rubber material), stick the nozzle inside, and spray a few times, then move the analog stick all around for a minute. Let it dry, and then that should, at least for a while, fix the problem.

u/expanding_crystal · 2 pointsr/CircuitBending

Hey, that’s progress!

Try resoldering the connectors on the back of those. They might have come loose from the mechanical pressure over time.

As for cleaning the buttons themselves, I have some stuff that I use for dodgy buttons and scratchy pots. Not exactly this, but it’s from from RadioShack which doesn’t exist anymore. Probably this is similar and would do the job:

https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00AF0OFVU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541714656&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=electrical+contact+cleaner&dpPl=1&dpID=41yj73g%2B%2BlL&ref=plSrch

I’d resolder the connections, then spray this stuff in there and click the buttons like a hundred times.

Worst case scenario, those little black buttons are a standard part you can replace.

u/pleasegoanddie · 2 pointsr/Switch

WD40 Company 300554 Specialist Contact Cleaner Spray - 11 oz. with Smart Straw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AF0OFVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FTnJDbM1B9S8V

u/mvanvrancken · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Don't use regular WD40. The electrical contact cleaner is a separate product sold by them. I am not sure what would happen if you sprayed the regular stuff on it but I'm sure nothing good. I've edited my comment to include the link, but here it is again

u/octothorpeFADA5E · 2 pointsr/mobilerepair

Electrical Contact Cleaner Amazon Example

u/_eHEL · 2 pointsr/Gameboy

Hit it with this stuff it works wonders and will show you right where any hidden corrosion is on solder points.

u/ZOMBIE_N_JUNK · 1 pointr/cade
u/leonhelmle · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Get this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AF0OFVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OBGPCbF0J6K7T
And look on YT. There are tutorials to fix this with that spray. Worked for me

u/KidPanda · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

I recently had a similar problem, due to smash. I used compressed air and that only helped for a short while. I recently bought this electronic contact cleaner, gave it a couple sprays under the flap, rotated the stick a couple times and let it dry. And it's been working like new again. Hasn't given me problems anymore.

u/TimesFather · 1 pointr/Gameboy

I'm assuming you're trying to clean the PCB. That shiny coating is an electrical varnish; a sealant to protect the board, mainly the circuit traces. Any type of Isopropanol (Isopropyl Alcohol, Acetone, etc.) will strip that varnish. What you'll want to use is Contact Cleaner (here). It's as simple as spraying down the PCB lightly with the cleaner, and then taking a non-abrasive brush to work it around and remove the dirt/oil/dust. Once you're satisfied, wipe down the PCB with a clean microfiber cloth. Good luck!

u/SenselessTragedy · 1 pointr/xboxone
u/Icecube1409 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I cleaned my pc with compressed air, but it doesnt look like everything went away, I still got this [Contact cleaner]( https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00AF0OFVU/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=contact+cleaner&qid=1558717635&s=music&sr=1-1-catcorr) from WD-40 which has more power and is kind of a "liquid that evaporate" you probably know what I mean. Is it safe to use this on the top side of my GPU to clean it?

u/XxZannexX · 1 pointr/vita

If it starts to happen again try using Electrical Contact Cleaner, I used this one. I was having major drift issues and this has resolved it (for now at least).

u/muddisoap · 1 pointr/vita

Not sure about not spending anything but I’ve read some people with other controllers, when they have problems with analog sticks, swear by this spray, it’s like WD-40 electrical contact cleaner and they say it works wonders. Maybe vita stick is different and doesn’t get fixed as well, I don’t really know. But it’s worth a try for 6-7$ I guess.

WD-40 Specialist Electrical Contact Cleaner Spray - Electronic & Electrical Equipment Cleaner. 11 oz. (Pack of 1) - 300554-E https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AF0OFVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_B5PCCb7P9Y03Y

u/ipha · 1 pointr/buildapc

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00AF0OFVU

Probably available at your local hardware store.

u/MetalPuck · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Use this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AF0OFVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_OcuIDbVK9CH95

I’ve had two drifting joycons and using this sprayer under the rubber cap and waiting for 5 minutes worked both times. Much easier than dealing with Nintendo support each time.

u/Drjay425 · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

I used WD-40 Electrical Contact Cleaner spray you can get it at homedepot for like $5. Make sure NOT to use regular WD-40. A quick 1 second spray under the flap of the analog and it will be as good as new. Heres a link to the right one if you want to get it from amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00AF0OFVU/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_328_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1HRH2926M4M7210XZ89H

u/XIIXOO · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

We had the drift issue as well. After reading about the fix using an electrical contact cleaner, I figured I'll give it a try. It worked. Just use a knife to lift up the rubber flap under the joystick, spray the cleaner inside, rotate stick a few times, let it dry. No more drifting. Not sure how long the fix will stay in place, but I'll keep doing this to avoid buying a new controller.

https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00AF0OFVU/

u/madmitch411 · 0 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Get this and spray it under the caps of your joysticks, they will work like they're brand new again.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AF0OFVU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Trey904fsu · 0 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

This stuff worked for me. Just spray it in there and let it dry

WD-40 Specialist Electrical Contact Cleaner Spray - Electronic & Electrical Equipment Cleaner. 11 oz. (Pack of 1) - 300554-E https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AF0OFVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OBGPCbF0J6K7T

u/nmrk · 0 pointsr/funny

I always keep a spray can of Contact Cleaner in case of keyboard accidents. This will solve (and dissolve) your problem.

I recently spilled a cup of coffee (with sugar) into my brand new Magic Keyboard. Oops. I sprayed contact cleaner into it immediately and forced all the coffee out. I sprayed the solution under all the keys, then tapped it keys-down onto paper towels until the solution came out clear instead of brown. My keyboard came out perfectly fine (I'm typing on it now). Accidents like this, with sugar in the coffee, usually cause permanent damage. But not if you're well prepared.

Warning: I suggest you do not buy this brand, which will only cause further confusion.

u/namelessted · -1 pointsr/buildapc

I would use a spray electronic cleaner like this or this.

I have found the WD-40 brand stuff at local hardware stores like Home Depot or Lowe's and it works great. Have cleaned off old motherboards and a GPU that had sticky soda all over the back of it.

Otherwise, as others have suggest, alcohol with wipes or q-tips. I just think the can and spraying the fuck out of it is the best first step to get the majority of it cleans and then using qtips for detail work if you find residue.

Also, as other have suggested, take all the components apart and clean them all separately, making sure the contacts and sockets are as clean as you can get.


How does somebody sit on a computer and piss in it? I've been blackout drunk before, but I can never understand how people can't find a toilet or bathtub/shower to piss in. Otherwise, wouldn't you just piss your clothes wherever you happen to pass out?