Reddit reviews Worm Factory 360 Black
We found 5 Reddit comments about Worm Factory 360 Black. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
The Worm Factory 360 has a standard 4-Tray size which is expandable up to 8 trays, giving it the largest volume of any home composter.The redesigned lid converts to a handy stand for trays while harvesting the compost.Includes Manual and a Warranty included after product registration.The accessory kit provides basic tools to make managing the Worm Factory 360 easier.Built in "worm tea" collector tray and spigot for easy draining.The Worm Factory 360 has a standard 4-Tray size which is expandable up to 8 trays, giving it the largest volume of any home composter.The redesigned lid converts to a handy stand for trays while harvesting the compost.
it's a worm farm for composting.
here's something similar
Good on you for wanting to vermicompost as soon as possible!
My sis used a DIY Rubbermaid bin for several years. She generally treated it in two zones, left and right. She'd put down kitchen waste in the left side, and the worms would sort of migrate there. For the next trip, she'd put it down on the right side.
Her most frequent complaint is that the worms wouldn't leave the old zone for the new zone. (I find this true with our vertical bin also, to a certain degree: worms will migrate up to the fresh food, but many will remain on the lower levels until the food is completely consumed.)
We live in an apartment, and use this worm bin in our utility room.
Rats are a whole different issue. They're devious, capable, and smart, though I'm not sure that shredded compost would be their first pick for food. You could make vertical "stilts" to hold your bin, or you could suspend it from the ceiling. Rats are smart as hell though, and will likely figure out how to bypass any protective measures you put into place. Deal with them, and vermicomposting will be easy. If you're in an apartment, the landlord should provide pest control services.
Also, if you have a blender, consider getting one or two big, regular (not wide-mouth) mason jars. We generally have 2 on the countertop. Edible/tasty kitchen trimmings (ends of onions, celery greens, ugly but non-rotten bits of carrots, bell pepper piths, meat trimmings) go into a freezer bag for making broth later. Inedible stuff (used coffee filters, tough asparagus bits, wilted flowers, pinched-off ends from growing plants, that bit of the carrot that includes the remains of the green part) goes into a Mason jar as future worm food.
The recommended ratio of brown matter to green matter is 60% (brown) to 40% (green.) It's often a challenge getting more brown matter than green, since most kitchen waste is green. We have a paper shredder (crosscut shredder, $7 from Goodwill thrift store) and I bought a big brick of coconut coir from Amazon. Peat pots whose seeds don't germinate also go to the worms.
Good luck!
WF360 = Worm Factory 360?
It is supossed to be 17.9 x 17.9 x 14.9 inches, right?
this is around 0.2 m^2 = 1 kg worms (5 kg/m^2)
Just get a regular bin 28.75 x 16 x 18.25 inches = 0.292 m^2
1.5 kg of worms
you can have a worm density anywhere from 2.5 to 10 kg/m^2, 5 is a good number.
If you are worried about winter, check this out.
Manual of On-Farm Vermicomposting and
Vermiculture
By Glenn Munroe
Organic Agriculture Centre of Canada
They talk a lot about harsh winters.
TLDR: worms will survive below zero temperatures, they will eat less, they wont reproduce as often.
Worms can be productive if you load them with food and plenty of space to move around and avoid dangerous areas.
Even if the walls froze they will be alright.
You can always insulate the bin with styrofoam on the outside.
>• Low temperatures. Eisenia can survive in temperatures as low as 0 o C, but
they don’t reproduce at single-digit temperatures and they don’t consume as
much food. It is generally considered necessary to keep the temperatures above
10 o C (minimum) and preferably 15 o C for vermicomposting efficiency and above
15 o C (minimum) and preferably 20 o C for productive vermiculture operations.
>• Effects of freezing. Eisenia can survive having their bodies partially encased in
frozen bedding and will only die when they are no longer able to consume
food 8 . Moreover, tests at the Nova Scotia Agricultural College (NSAC) have
confirmed that their cocoons survive extended periods of deep freezing and
remain viable (GEORG, 2004).
>• High temperatures. Compost worms can survive temperatures in the mid-30s
but prefer a range in the 20s ( o C). Above 35 o C will cause the worms to leave the
area. If they cannot leave, they will quickly die. In general, warmer
temperatures (above 20 o C) stimulate reproduction.
>• Worms’s response to temperature differentials. Compost worms will
redistribute themselves within piles, beds or windrows according to temperature
gradients. In outdoor composting windrows in wintertime, where internal heat
from decomposition is in contrast to frigid external temperatures, the worms will
be found in a relatively narrow band at a depth where the temperature is close
to optimum. They will also be found in much greater numbers on the south-
facing side of windrows in the winter and on the opposite side in the summer.
>Although composting worms O 2 requirements are essential, however, they are also
relatively modest. Worms survive harsh winters inside windrows where all surfaces are
frozen: they live on the oxygen available in the water trapped inside the windrow.
I’ve just received my order of the DE. Was curious if you could recommend how to use it? Where to apply and what amount. We have a 360 worm factory: https://www.amazon.com/Worm-Factory-WF360B-Composter-Black/dp/B002LH47PY
Then try getting one of these! They're great and you can set it up somewhere closed off in your kitchen & add scraps whenever.