Reddit Reddit reviews X-ACTO #2 Knife With Safety Cap

We found 26 Reddit comments about X-ACTO #2 Knife With Safety Cap. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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X-ACTO #2 Knife With Safety Cap
Precision knife with number 2 large fine point blade for exact cutsDesigned to cut medium to heavy weight materialsMedium weight aluminum handle is easy to maneuverEasy change blade systemSafety cap for storage and portability
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26 Reddit comments about X-ACTO #2 Knife With Safety Cap:

u/mmtb1120 · 54 pointsr/MakeupAddiction

Hello all, in a previous post made yesterday, I had replied with a picture of a drawer of my Alex 9 unit and received a few of inquiries about how I made my drawer organizers. So, I decided to try my best to tell you how I did it. I apologize I wasn't able to make a complete step by step with a ton of photos, but this process was done over a year ago, and I wasn't really planning on doing it again since I finished!


Materials Needed:

Ruler

X-acto Knife

-I would recommend some extra blades as well-

--Foam Board (the more the merrier)--

Flathead Pins

--Contact Paper--


-The blades become dull fairly quickly, I think I used about four during the process-

--I was able to get a piece for $.99 at Michael’s on sale

---I decided to wrap each piece with contact paper because it makes it very easy to clean. In my actual vanity, I used fabric and it has gotten dirty and damaged and I 100% don't recommend it--


Template Materials:

Copy Paper or Grid Paper

Ruler

Actual makeup products


Steps:

  1. I first made templates for each drawer. I found using grid paper to design the setup made it very easy, each block was marked as an inch. Using the actual product dimensions I was easily able to map out what could possibly go in each location. It’s nice to know that the height of a standard sheet of copy paper is the width of the drawers! Also, to note, I made sure to give a little space on each side of the product to give it some wiggle room. (The dimension of each drawer is 11.5"x20.5")

  2. I then used normal copy paper to make a full-size map of each drawer. Then using that I transferred it onto the foam board. Measure twice and cut once.

  3. Using a straight edge, I was able to make cuts of each segment. It's easiest to first cut the width of the product and then afterwards cut the height of each compartment making sure they all have a uniform width and height.

  4. After each piece has been cut, I went ahead and wrapped every piece with white contact paper. Contact paper has a sticky back that easily allows it to adhere. Also, the back has its own grid so it was easy!

  5. Once each piece was ready to go ahead and assemble, I made a new template. This one was to make a uniform depth of each compartment (my smaller compacts all had about 3/4 of an inch between each and larger had about 1 inch) A B. This also made it very easy to ensure I had a perfect right angle.

  6. I decided to use flathead pins to connect everything together. I've seen previous YouTube tutorials that used hot glue, but that can be messy and difficult to work with. Also, if you ever need to redo something, you don't destroy what you had done. I used two pins on each side which really anchors the part. I will note, the tips of my index fingers went numb from doing this so much, but the feeling came back…eventually

  7. Enjoy!


    Some other things to note:

    In my palette drawer, I created L shaped panels to allow for the palette to be better seen

    I also purchased from byAlegory a liquid lipstick and lipstick organizers to build around

    In my lipstick drawer, I purchased little glass beads to allow for the products to stand up better

    My paper towel drawer has a holder which I created using a wooden dowel and clay

    Also, I grabbed plastic liquid dispensers to easily get to my various liquids

    Managed to slice my finger open making little lids of acrylic to hold all my disposable paper products

    *Most of my other acrylic pieces have been purchased from MUJI


    I hope you enjoyed my ~teal battlestation~, if you have any other questions about it feel free to ask. And I'm sorry if it was unclear at all. And, I'm 100% aware I have a stupid amount of makeup that I've gotten over the years as a makeup artist, Sephora employee, and a true Make Up Addict.
u/[deleted] · 12 pointsr/AskReddit

I have one of those xacto knife pens, I use it to carve designs into things and what not. But my secret purpose is to perform an emergency Tracheotomy if the time ever arrises. Hasn't happened yet.

Link

u/kjg28 · 12 pointsr/SandersForPresident

Ideas:
-Focus most of our energy on the subways and put the flyers behind the glass. This is the best place for waiting people to learn about Bernie.
-Place Bernie stickers on polls, garbage cans, etc
-Chalk about Bernie on the ground!
-I am creating a Bernie "bat signal" to shine from my balcony to the windowless face of a nearby brick building using this: http://www.amazon.com/WASING-Lumens-Rechargeable-Searchlight-lighting/dp/B00V5OI3KO?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00 AND a cardboard cut out of this: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0886/0470/products/bernie2016-magnet_1024x1024.jpg?v=1441046067 WITH THE DATE OF THE PRIMARY ADDED, cut with this: http://www.amazon.com/ELMERS-X-Acto-Knife-Silver-X3602/dp/B000V1QV7O?ie=UTF8&keywords=exacto%20knife&qid=1459182606&ref_=sr_1_2&sr=8-2

the flashlight reaches really far and it works!

u/Abrakastabra · 8 pointsr/battletech

For starters, what condition are the miniatures in? Are they packaged still? Assembled but not painted? Are they painted already? Depending on where they're at will determine what you need to do first, so let's assume the worst and go on to the better.

If a figure is already assembled, you'll want to disassemble it. The best way to get the glue off in my experience is to soak the figure over night in acetone. When you pull it out, the glue should be easy to get off. You can generally find acetone in large volumes at hardware stores in the paint section. You can store the acetone and figures in a glass jar or any plastic container that has the recycling logo on it with a number 5 in it and PP underneath it.

If a figure is already painted, you'll then need to get the paint off, without damaging the figures. The best way I've found to do this is with Purple Power, which you can generally find at automotive stores: http://www.clean-rite.com/purplepower_industrial_strength_cleaner_degreaser.html. You can use the same type of container for this as the one mentioned above. Let the figures soak for a day or so, and use a junk toothbrush to get any leftover paint off.

Now that you've got the figures cleaned, you need to prime them. You don't need anything special for this, as long as it's good for metal, however, I recommend a spray on primer. My personal preference is Krylon's general purpose primer, and I prefer gray as opposed to white. You can usually get this in the same place you get your acetone, or you can get it at a hobby shop. http://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Stencils-Craft-Paints/Spray-Paint/Gray-Krylon-Indoor/Outdoor-Spray-Primer/p/1357

The next step is to get the rest of your supplies:

Super Glue: Can't put minis together without glue! I just use a bottle of Gorilla Super Glue. http://www.gorillatough.com/gorilla-super-glue

Painting palette: My preference is to use a wet palette for painting but there's definitely a benefit for having a dry palette available as well. Here's a link to a video on making a wet palette and the benefits of it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FmxJdZdKdc. In here, they use one from a manufacturer, and it's nice because it's easily closed, but you can just as easily and super cheap with a plastic plate (dollar store), and using a paper towel instead of a sponge. Just cut the paper towel to size, soak it, have a little extra water in there and put the parchment paper down, then add more water. This is what I personally do, and just stick it in the fridge when I'm not using it. If you have an option to make one that you can put a cover on though, that'd be best. For a dry palette, you can just get something like a ceramic tile from the hardware store for like, a dollar or less, and it's super easy to clean.

Brushes: You probably don't want/need to spend a lot on brushes, especially starting out. I'd recommend a few cheap brushes, generally you want the brush sizes to probably be between 20/0 to 2, and also get a small flat brush, preferably with a cat's tongue tip, but it's not necessary, as long as it's flat. It'll be very useful for dry brushing. My recommendation would probably be to get a variety of brushes from Atlas Brush Company: http://www.atlasbrush.com/brush-sets. I'd recommend Style 255-3PS, Style 55, and Style 58A. When your brushes start getting hard to work with, you can usually stick the tips in boiling water for a bit to get them back to shape.

Paints, Washes and Varnish: A lot of people prefer either Vallejo paints or Citadel paints by Games Workshop. My preference, especially since I use a wet palette, is to use Vallejo, though I use some Games Workshop paint as well.

In addition to this, you'll probably want some washes. I don't actually have experience with Vallejo washes - I've only used Games Workshop, but I prefer the washes in the type of container that Citadel uses as opposed to droppers, since I apply them direct from the container. I'd recommend at least Nuln Oil from them if you go with Citadel Games, though I'm sure a black wash from Vallejo is perfectly fine.

Citadel also has Dry paints, which are supposed to be good for dry brushing, but I've not had any experience with them. They may be a good idea for you as a beginner, since you'll probably not have very good technique when you first try to dry brush (I found myself, and still do a lot of times, using too much paint). You can usually find these paints at hobby stores, but at the worst case, you can pick them up cheap on eBay. There are sellers on eBay that have pick-your-selection listings, just search Vallejo Pick and you'll have results.

You'll also want a varnish to seal your piece when you're done. I prefer to use two coats - the first one glossy, then the second one matte.

I recommend you get at least the following: White, Black, Red, Blue, Yellow, Green, Brown, Silver, Matt Varnish, Gloss Varnish, Black Wash

Flocking and Turf: Far from necessary, but if you want to make your bases have that grassy look to them, you'll need this. I use Coarse Turf - Yellow Grass, and then just soak it in the appropriate watered down paint, dry it out, and glue it on with Elmer's Glue. This stuff is generally available at hobby stores. http://www.sceneryexpress.com/YELLOW-GRASS-COARSE-TURF/productinfo/WD0061/

Antennas: A lot of BattleTech minis, especially older ones, should have antennas on them. If you have loose figures, the odds are they have been lost and you'll need to replace them. I've found staples work very well for this. If they're still in the package, you'll see a thin metal piece in there that looks like mechanical pencil lead; you'll just need to cut it to size for your mini. Additionally, these are pretty fragile once you glue them onto the mini unless you put a hole in the mini for it to go in. The best thing for this is to use a Pin Vise and drill bits http://www.amazon.com/CML-Supply-Micro-Drill-Chuck/dp/B001RJE3X8. However, I've gotten by just fine using a safety pin and thumb tack.

Files and razor blades: You may need some files and razor blades to get rid of flash (pieces of metal from the vent holes in the mold that may be attached to the figure still) and seam lines. http://www.amazon.com/ELMERS-X-Acto-Knife-Silver-X3602/dp/B000V1QV7O. Personally, I've gotten by with just the piece on my nail clippers that's there to clean and file your nails with.

Water dish: You'll need something to put your paint water in. I use 3 dishes: One for clean water, one for paint water, and one with water and dish soap in it.

Mini stand: You'll generally want to have something to put your mini on while you work with it. If you don't, you'll end up rubbing the paint and primer off of it while you hold it to turn it while you paint. This can be just about anything. My preference is to use something about the diameter of a hex that's a couple inches tall and use Velcro.

Now, you need to figure out what the hell you're doing with all this stuff. I'm far from an expert painter, and I've learned most of my techniques watching videos. You can find a lot of information on YouTube. Here is some good stuff to start off with: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL10C32CB2CD611E84

Hopefully this helps!

EDIT: I'm not the best best painter, in fact I'm still pretty new to this myself, having painted probably just under a dozen minis myself. However, I figured that'd probably put me in a good position to answer your questions as someone who's coming from the same place you're coming. That being said, this is my most recent piece - I just finished the base and varnishing it yesterday: https://imgur.com/a/Vj6fI (Unseen Battlemaster)

u/ostermei · 3 pointsr/pics
u/dopest_dope · 3 pointsr/popping

Good idea, how does this look?

X-ACTO #2 Knife With Safety Cap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000V1QV7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9vr1BbPFG2HDV

u/UltraSPARC · 2 pointsr/BitcoinMining

Correct. I just did this in a 1x slot for an actual card and it worked great. Buy an x-acto knife. I bought this one on amazon and it works great! Took about 2 minutes to cut the back tab off...

u/FlyingSMonster · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

http://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-74016-Basic-Tool-Set/dp/B000BMYWXI/

This is the only basic tool set I know of.

That said, I would recommend getting a nice spruce cutter:
http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-2175ET-Professional-Sprue-Cutter/dp/B001TMZ7QA/

X-acto knifes are essential, such as the #2 large blade which is probably the most essential tool you will need.
http://www.amazon.com/X-ACTO-Knife-Cap-Silver-X3602/dp/B000V1QV7O/

Other miscellaneous tools you should get: Q-tips, fine and regular for cleaning tools, weathering with pigments, etc. Fine-tipped tweezers are also very useful. I recommend using Tamiya's extra thin cement, as well as regular cyanoadhesives for painted parts on your model. You will also definitely want some sanding tools, I recommend going to the Dollar Tree or w/e and getting a bunch of medium and fine nail filing sticks. They are cheap and work excellent on models. Tamiya also makes a line of very fine grit sandpaper (1,000, 1,500, 2,000, 2500, etc.) that can make a nice polished surface, as well as sand down thick paint.

u/73eyeballs · 2 pointsr/learntodraw

I use a small x-acto blade to sharpen pencils. Like this

Just hold it over a trash can and shave away.

u/ethandscott · 2 pointsr/DIY

I printed the giraffe on two sheets of 11x17" paper and taped them together (as seen in some of the other pictures for keeping track of pieces).

I then used a knife (similar to this one) to carefully cut out the triangles and leave the gaps... I messed up a few times and had to tape the map together.

u/EvilGreenDevil · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

an x-acto knife works wonders when trying to cut rounded edges

u/princesstelephone · 2 pointsr/somethingimade

Probably an Xacto Knife.

u/_blackwatch · 1 pointr/ProjectFi

This is the one I bought and found that I didn't even need a few of the items. Here is the camera glass cover

An X-ACTO or other utility knife along with a playing card (used a Joker to not mess up my other cards lol) was also useful.

u/Apex413 · 1 pointr/Terraria

All I did was draw the eye on the pumpkin, trace that out with an Xacto Knife, then scrape off the rind and enough skin to let light through using these sculpting tools. This pumpkin I did last week shows it a little better, still terrible cell phone quality :/.

u/kbob · 1 pointr/cableadvice

Try this. If you're like me, you have so many spare cables that you won't mind ruining a couple.

u/other_thoughts · 1 pointr/AskElectronics
&amp;gt; unsoldering bigger chips     <br />
      <br />
Here is my suggestion, if you have to remove and IC (chip) and you will not reuse it.<br />
Here is an SOIC-16 pack image https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Small_Outline_Integrated_Circuit<br />
Get a set of dental picks, and a fine-tipped xacto knife (links for example)<br />
https://www.amazon.com/Equinox-International-Dental-Hygiene-Kit/dp/B00X9JE7LM/<br />
https://www.amazon.com/X-ACTO-2-Knife-Safety-Cap/dp/B000V1QV7O/<br />
.<br />
The SOIC leads look like &quot;legs&quot; of a person sitting on a chair. You can see the knee, heel, foot and toe.     <br />
Add a small amount of solder to the pads.<br />
Insert the pick tip between the heel and the package, pry gently and reheat the solder joint.<br />
When the solder is molten, force the pin off the pad, like straightening the &quot;knee&quot;.<br />
Repeat for the other pins. <br />
Since I an right handed, I start with pin 8 of an soic-16 package, then pin 7, 6... 2.<br />
Then I do pins 16,15,...10. Then I CAREFULLY remove pin 1 and 9 <br />
.               <br />
 **DO NOT use tweezers as a pick. They will bend an NEVER can be straightened.**
u/chromejunx · 1 pointr/graffhelp

Xacto knife or something similar. Back in the days I used to take the razor blades from the boxcutter at work and used those. I wouldn't recommend that on account of the fact that would ALWAYS cut the tips of my fingers.

u/Loserwing · 1 pointr/Gunpla

They have smaller knifes called exacto knifes, personally i switched between knifes and plyers for the nubs.

X-ACTO #2 Knife With Safety Cap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000V1QV7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SFTSAbXVVS3N3

u/BeautifulVictory · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

X-ACTO! It's prime time!

u/Captain_Fun_Dicks · 1 pointr/steroids

If I'm running 175-200mg and HCG I need the .125 on pin days.


Get one of these- https://www.amazon.com/ELMERS-X-Acto-Knife-Silver-X3602/dp/B000V1QV7O

u/facey801 · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Let's Celebrate!

Great contest. I could always use another one of these!

u/Helen0rz · 1 pointr/papercraft

You might already have these things, all basic stuff and it's just gonna be a rehash of what I previously mentioned :

Get an xacto knife, basic and you should be able to get it at the local hobby shop or at amazon, very straight forward.

You might need craft tweezers. I have this kit but haven't started on it, but the tweezers can be really help for in tight spots. I have a needle nose kind (not sure that's what you call them) and the curved kind.

Glue, any one glue (like elmers or scotch) will work. There are craft glues you can buy but it's not really necessary

Painting Kiki, brush pens should achieve what you see in the picture. I haven't gotten a set yet so I can't exactly give recs. I have just been utilizing my fine point sharpies and the Sakura brand micro pens

u/Redux-Eredar · 1 pointr/hackintosh

It comes with the waterblock/enclosure, backplate, tubes, radiator, fans, fan splitter, thermal paste, thermal pads, and screws for mounting fans to the radiator and the radiator to the case. You'll need to cut thermal pads. I used a pen-shaped razor, it was something like this: https://www.amazon.com/X-ACTO-2-Knife-Safety-Cap/dp/B000V1QV7O/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=precision+cutter+knife&amp;amp;qid=1563145258&amp;amp;s=home-garden&amp;amp;sr=1-3

You don't need to buy anything else, but you might want to. I personally used a pair of Noctua fans (NF-12 or NF-A12x25 work well). The thermal paste tube is really small -- I wound up using the whole tube, so you might want to have extra paste around as backup. I also used some Noctua wipes to clean my GPU die and the waterblock cold plate before assembly, but alcohol + coffee filters would work fine too.

Here's a Gamers Nexus video showing the installation process so you know what's involved: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sPkREKaDqf4, there are other videos out there as well.