Reddit reviews XSPC G1/4" Plug with 10k Sensor, Black Chrome

They usually come embedded in a g1/4 thread cap or a t junction and then have a cable that runs from that to your mobo temp sensor header. [This is there one I use.] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CMR3CC2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dfR9ybD4DVRA8)

Please take all of my comments with a grain of salt. I have only had a water cooling setup for about 3 months.

Extra Coolant: This is good to have if something bad happens. For instance, if you find out you have a leak and you need to drain your loop to fix the problem. You would want to have some spare coolant on hand to refill your loop.

Extra Tubing: I think EK puts 2 meters of tubing in the box which is plenty for what you are looking at doing. I bought an extra 3 meters of tubing with the kit and ended up using about 3 meters out of the 5 meters total. My loop is slightly more complicated with an extra radiator and GPU waterblock. It is also nice to have extra tubing on hand to help drain and fill your loop.

Temp Sensor: This one would be my lowest ranked recommendation. I found myself constantly comparing my temps to other peoples after I put my loop together. Knowing the temperature of your loop water to ambient room temperature (Delta T) is a key element in determining how well your loop is absorbing heat through the water blocks and releasing heat through the radiators. I ended up replacing my three way splitter with a four way about 2 months after I initially built my loop to add a temp sensor. I just think it would be really cheap upfront to add the extra plug for another 3.85 and upgrade the 3-way to a 4-way for maybe another 1.00. This way if you wanted to add a sensor in the future it would be really easy to do.

Temp sensor with LCD display
Stand alone plug temp sensor

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2 of XSPC G1/4" to 3/8" Barb Fitting Black Chrome - 4 Pack

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XSPC G1/4" Plug with 10k Sensor, Black Chrome

and a hardware labs gts that I did not get from Amazon.

I only bought stuff that was highly rated and after a year nothing has leaked or broken or anything. I guess I should also say I already had the fans so that saved a lot of money there.

Coolant temps won't spike, so if you're running your fans and pump off a temperature, that's the ideal way to go. I bought this (https://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Plug-Sensor-Black-Chrome/dp/B00CMR3CC2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526051355&sr=8-3&keywords=g1%2F4+temperature+sensor&dpID=41iRpFah5cL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch) and it works great. It did a lot for making my rig run quieter, or at least not ramp up and down when the CPU spiked.

Thanks for the tips!

When people say they bleed for 24 hours, does that mean they leave the pump on for 24 hours (with system not powered on). And every once in a while, you turn off the pump, rock the case a bit and power the pump back on? Basically doing this during the leak test? At what pump speed (or does it even matter)?

I went with EK slim radiators because EK has a sale this weekend. I have heard that HW Labs has better radiators, but EK's are still decent, right?

Unfortunately, the case has already been decided. If anything, side panels can come off during heavy use. Besides, for regular use it should be okay. I had an NZXT H440 which is a case people claimed had terrible airflow but for my purposes, it's been fine (and it had the Noctua fans).

If I got a sensor, I'd probably get this. Color matches my cabling and fittings. I'd probably replace one of my reservoir's plugs with this sensor. Though, with a decent fan curve and fan hysteresis, fans based on CPU temps can't be that bad, right? I'm trying to avoid the sensor since I'd rather use my fan controller, unless there is a way to hook it up to my fan controller which is a Grid+ V3.

I'll probably go with the W_PUMP+ header, even though it's in an awkward spot right i the middle of my board.

Nice system you got there. Polish website, so are you Polish because I am, haha.

Nice clean build, I love the whole aesthetic.

However, as a first time looper myself, I would recommend a few improvements. It appears that you put in a bleeder valve and no res and no drain.

Res is a high priority item to keep your pump fed and allow a gathering point for air in the system.

Then you should have a drain for your system and then add a bleeder valve/fill port. A Bleeder valve works great in conjunction with a drain because it will act as a vacuum breaker when draining, and can bleed air when bottom filling.

To add a drain, run a tee off your lowest pump fitting instead of the 90 and set a ball valve and drain out the right side of your case. Put a small 100ml res on the pump incoming line. You don't want to use rads as your res because the air pockets will rob efficiency.

Also, if you are not monitoring your loop temp, I would highly recommend adding a temp sensor.

You can use this: https://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Sensor-Temperature-Display-Green/dp/B071K9KL71/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=xspc+G1%2F4+temp+sensor&qid=1567993718&s=gateway&sr=8-5

with this: https://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Plug-Sensor-Black-Chrome/dp/B00CMR3CC2/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?keywords=xspc+G1%2F4+temp+sensor&qid=1567993718&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr0