Reddit Reddit reviews XTC-3D High Performance 3D Print Coating - 24oz. Unit

We found 34 Reddit comments about XTC-3D High Performance 3D Print Coating - 24oz. Unit. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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XTC-3D High Performance 3D Print Coating - 24oz. Unit
Epoxy Coating for 3D Printed ObjectsSmooths 3D Printed ObjectsCompatible with SLA and SLS prints.It works with PLA, ABS, Laywoo, Powder Printed Parts and other rigid media. It also can be used to coat EPS, EPDM and urethane foam as well as wood, plaster, fabric, cardboard and paper.
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34 Reddit comments about XTC-3D High Performance 3D Print Coating - 24oz. Unit:

u/Roboticide · 6 pointsr/3Dprinting

I'm noticing a trend involving multi-tailed foxes...

Very cool, but I have a question. Do you think the filament would still be sensitive enough to heat if it was coated in epoxy such as this stuff to give it a nicer, more "sculpture"-like finish? It'd be fun to have something like this, but I typically do everything I can to obscure print lines on display pieces. Can't prime or paint this though, obviously.

u/esseff3d · 4 pointsr/3Dprinting

I've been experimenting with different things.

Plastruct Plastic Weld makes a pretty solid bond. The only time I've had trouble with it is lately while trying to bond sections of a sword blade that are 0.3" thick and 3" wide. The sections with the most stress on them can snap if I let it flex enough.

I used Gorilla Glue to glue together pieces that left gaps. It expands and fills, so that was handy. The bond seemed strong, so I'm going to try that on the blade pieces next.

I've also used Loctite gel control super glue and it worked fairly well, but I don't believe the bond is as strong as Plastic Weld.

As for finishing prints, my current method is to use XTC 3D to smooth the print. After that, I prime, sand, and paint using spray paints. I will probably get an airbrush soon to try for nicer looking paint jobs.

u/Ansuzalgiz · 4 pointsr/Nerf

I would recommend saving yourself the effort and using something like [XTC-3D](
) for smoothing out layer lines instead of sanding. PLA and PETG are painful to sand, and ABS is painful to print.

u/hmspain · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

My best results have been prints in clear resin, but "transparent" PLA can be enhanced as well.

I bought the following:

You mix it like epoxy, and lightly coat the outside. I use my hands (with gloves). It removes minor blemishes, and makes for a "smoother, shinier" part.

It is not for everyone; sometimes I prefer the "frosted" look on a part.

PRO TIP: Buy a box of thumb tacks. Put a bunch of them point up so your part can dry without sticking to anything.

u/Kobaj · 3 pointsr/DIY

Most people are telling you it can't be done, but the truth is there are food grade filaments and techniques for printing food safe parts. I don't recommend you do this, but at the same time I'm happy to provide the following information.

u/QWERTY_REVEALED · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

I see them so often, that I wonder if it is inevitable with the process. Another approach would be to just smooth them out and paint it. This is a good material for smoothing a print:

u/Villagesmithy · 3 pointsr/fo4

Epoxy and lots of sanding.

u/DMUSER · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

You can order this stuff off Amazon and it's specifically made for 3d prints. The ones I've done have a mirror finish, and you can tint it directly to make candy automotive style finishes. Or you can prime it and paint it.

u/ShreddinPB · 2 pointsr/airsoft

I used this on my 3D printed upper/battery compartment
It worked great! Took a couple hours to sand after but then just primered it and thats it.

u/citricacidx · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Looks good. I've been wanting to print up a car too.

You should look into XTC-3D.

u/TheBobMcCormick · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Not much really. The benefit of buying the mk2s is that you really don't need to modify or swap anything.

Here are a few things you might want in my opinion:

  • You might want some different filaments. You can stick with the brands and types that Prusa includes printing profiles for, or for other brands and types you may have to do some testing to find the right print temperature, speed, cooling, etc. Reading up on that process is a good idea.

  • A paint scraper can be helpful for removing prints from the print bed, just be careful not to scratch the print surface.

  • Some rubbing alcohol. Rubbing alcohol or window cleaner is what Prusa recommends to clean the PEI print bed. You can also use rubbing alcohol for this very cool trick to help loosen stuck prints

  • A good set of calipers can be handy for measuring printed objects, measuring real-world objects you're trying to model things to fit, etc.

  • bookmark some fun things on Thingiverse, MyMiniFactory, etc. that you'd like to print. Especially some small things that you can print quickly in your first few days/weeks with your printer that don't require painting, other parts, etc.

  • I found my printer printed much better after I calibrated the Extruder and the Z-height. A decent extruder calibration process for the Prusa can be found here. The same site has some info on calibrating z-height, or I had good luck with this method. Mine was a kit though, so it's possible those are pre-calibrated with the assembled printer.

  • You can buy different size and different material nozzles for the e3d hotend. Hardened steel nozzles are recommended for most of the filaments that have stuff embedded in them (carbon fiber, wood, etc) as those are really abrasive on the standard brass nozzle and can deform it internally,, causing later printing problems.

  • Paint, sealant or epoxy can be useful for finishing up models. I haven't tried it myself, but I've seen pictures of some awesome results using this epoxy to give a smooth, hardened finish to your prints. Standard acrylic hobby paints are also great for color and pizzazz to your finished prints, especially more artsy stuff.
u/MissAnnieOakley · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I can't say this is what the "best" method is, just what has worked for me in the past:

  • Coat with epoxy and/or use epoxy putty to deal with any large gaps or to make up for rough edges.

  • Let it dry overnight

  • Then LOTS of sanding. So, so much sanding. I honestly love this part, so carthartic.

  • Spray paint automotive primer. I think the reason it has to be this specific type is because it does a good job of filling in the cracks and holes. I also give it a few rounds of sanding with a 220 grit sandpaper after priming to give it a silky smooth surface (yes, you can sand this type of primer!)

    My biggest gripe with 3D printing was that the ridges were always present. This process makes it so the ridges are non-existent and easier to paint!

    Edit: I should mention I've mostly worked with large scale cosplay props. This process might not work for everything, like you probably don't need to put epoxy on small stuff.
u/LavastormSW · 2 pointsr/cosplay

Nice! I'm sure that'll look awesome. I suggest using bondo to fill cracks and divits and XTC-3D or a similar epoxy to cover the entire piece to smooth it out.

u/Enverex · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting
u/SearingPhoenix · 2 pointsr/Nerf

You could potentially do an acetone wash.

I use Smooth-On XTC-3D, but it might not be right for your application. It can add some thickness to parts, which in the case of Sledgefire shells might make them unusable.

u/almonster2066 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting
u/r0bbiedigital · 2 pointsr/tf2
u/gene_m · 1 pointr/MonsterHunter

I'm not fantastic at 3d printing yet, but I highly recommend this. It's helped to get rid of the "layers" in a print without losing too much detail. You can get a TON out of a single bottle, so it's worth the price.

u/Dont_Think_So · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Forgot about this for smoothing non-ABS prints:

u/mangogello · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

You should try XTC! Its fantastic at filling on 3d prints, 30 minute cure time. Only takes 1 careful coat for fine prints, or 2-3 regular coats for less detailed prints. You can sand it smooth with 400 grit

u/Sprinket · 1 pointr/fo4

That looks pretty sick. Just FYI though, you can get rid of those print lines with something like this: 3d print goo

u/picmandan · 1 pointr/diyaudio

Are you familiar with this stuff for coating?

u/da_brodiefish · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

You can use xtc-3d from smooth on to get a super nice smooth finish, that's what I did here

u/Garycsims · 1 pointr/fightsticks

Smooth-On XTC-3D High Performance 3D Print Coating - 24oz. Unit

u/Deadpaul_ · 1 pointr/3Dprinting
u/eskamobob1 · 1 pointr/Cubers

Its a self leveling resin used in certain forms of post processing.

u/patcheudor · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

On a modern engine it would run rich due to the O2 sensors in the CAT telling the engine to pump more fuel and if terribly bad, throw faults when the CAT O2 sensors get too far outside of tolerance. Also any leaks could be entirely mitigated by coating the thing in XTC-3D:

u/Wilhelm_III · 1 pointr/minipainting

It can be, though that looks rougher than any of mine. But there's a product called XTC-3D that automatically smooths the striations of 3d-printed objects by filling them in.

u/dbaderf · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I'm going to try this out today.

u/Dirsh5 · 1 pointr/PrintedMinis

I've had good results with the standard .4 nozzle. As long as it prints clean, I've had more success putting effort into post-processing. This stuff does wonders for painting. I've printed minis on .5 and .6 nozzles with similar results in quality.

u/Vick_Vinegar125 · 1 pointr/Nerf

I am going to try using this to smooth out layer lines to hopefully get better barrel material.

u/ReallyGene · 1 pointr/3Dprinting