Best 12v batteries according to redditors
We found 265 Reddit comments discussing the best 12v batteries. We ranked the 97 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 265 Reddit comments discussing the best 12v batteries. We ranked the 97 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
![ExpertPower 12v 33ah Rechargeable Deep Cycle Battery [EXP12330] Replaces 34Ah, 35Ah, 36Ah](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41veonTkiML.jpg)
Thanks! Yup Mikey was always my fav. Here is the battery I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KC39BE6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Your charge controller is too small and you need an MPPT charge controller.
Forget the 100w pv modules look for 250w modules.
Battery is too small.
Inverter is too big, look for a 200w
If you are doing this for fun, fine. But if you are planning to save money just forget about it. An off grid system will not save you any money.
Edit: add more detail:
to clarify some. Your pump uses 1.728 kWh/day and your battery has just 0.36kWh of storage. Worse you don't want to drain the battery more than 50%.
http://everydaycalculation.com/ah-kilowatt-hour.php
So what you will need is something along the lines of this:
https://www.amazon.com/NPP-Rechargeable-Sealed-Battery-Terminals/dp/B01J94RBDG/ref=sr_1_sc_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504614762&sr=1-3-spell&keywords=deep+cyclebattery+200ah
The Charge Controller is PWM and rated for 30amps. This is the output amps so at the battery voltage of 12V in your case. 30A X 12V = 360watts
What you need is something like this that is MPPT:
https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Commander-Solar-Charge-Controller/dp/B01DCTMAK8/ref=sr_1_16?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1504615016&sr=1-16&keywords=mppt+solar+charge+controller
An MPPT CC can handle higher input voltages so you can make a string of higher voltage modules, other wise you have to keep them all in parallel and use fuses between the strings. The efficiency is higher as well.
Now you could make the whole thing simpler by going with a 24V battery which would require an inverter like this: https://www.amazon.com/COTEK-SK200-124-200W-Pure-Inverter/dp/B006W9I7S0/ref=sr_1_6?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1504615205&sr=1-6&keywords=200w+inverter+24V
They're fucked, must've used the wrong charger for them, or the charger malfunctioned. They won't explode, but I doubt they will be useful for more than like 2 miles.
Good news: It's not too terribly expensive to replace them: https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP12200-12V-20AH-Lead_Acid_Battery/dp/B00KC39BE6
Though I'd 100% upgrade to LiFePo4 batteries instead, a drop in upgrade no modifications needed: https://www.lithiumion-batteries.com/products/12v-20ah-lithium-ion-battery/
LiFePo is superior Wh/kg and will last you pretty much forever.
reddit taught me that I can fix an old dead UPS with fairly cheap replacement batteries.
Best LPT ever.
At that budget level, you're going to be looking at more budget oriented radios from the likes of Baofeng, TYT, QYT, Leixn, and the other assorted Chinese manufacturers. The one you mentioned is not a bad choice, so let's run with that...
-or-
side note: For a mag mount antenna, the Tram 1185 is a good cheap option at $21.63
additional side note: Neither one of these antennas I mentioned is tri band capable, they're dual band 2m/70cm only. Tri band 2m/1.25/70cm antennas are considerably more expensive. Unless there's regular 1.25m activity in your area, you may wish to reconsider your need for having this band.
Total: $188.96 or $209.19 if you choose the 20Ah battery option.
Use whatever is left over for a case. A nice Pelican will probably consume the rest of your budget. Or you could go down to your local sporting goods store and browse the handgun cases there. You'll probably be able to find something good for $15-30 and have a few bucks left over. I found this 4 pistol case at my local Sportsmans Warehouse, it's cheap, reaonably well built, and is a pretty good size. I can fit a small army of handheld radios and associated paraphernalia in mine, so it should be big enough to hold a mobile rig plus battery.
I have the same Jeep in red for my son. If you’d like to add a dual battery setup, this 12AH battery fits perfectly in the empty compartment on the left side under the hood. You can wire it in parallel with the existing battery for many many hours of fun.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A82A2ZS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
With a budget of $400, I'd start with a small Alpicool for around $200. That's a good price on those, and they sip around 1/2 amp/hour@12v, meaning you'll need at least 36Ah of battery (.5Ax24hx3d).
Bump to 50Ah of usable power, for some wiggle room, and you can pick up something like this for $170.
The only other thing you'll need is wiring. A kit like this has most of what you need, toss in a cheap manual isolator to keep it from draining your starter battery, and you're left with a few crimp connectors and maybe a socket (might as well get a kinda-nice one).
That puts you $10 over-budget, but it'll do everything you asked for and more, and be a nice little setup to expand someday with solar or inverter or whatever. If you can score a cheaper second-hand battery initially, that'll help budget-wise, but I wouldn't bother skimping on anything else except maybe the 12v socket. The one I linked is just a nice feature to have USB and volt meter built-in, so you can reduce cord/adapter clutter if you like, and have an idea where you're at on power reserves, monitoring it manually. Downgrading that to a simple, "dumb" socket would put you within the $400 budget.
No
60 Watt Panel
Charge Controller
Battery
Light
12v Cig Adapter
Very nice! If you want to make them truly portable add a shelf and grab two of these: EXP1250 12V 5Ah Home Alarm Battery with F1 Terminals // Chamberlain / LiftMaster / Craftsman 4228 Replacement Battery for Battery Backup Equipped Garage Door Openers https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0010Z4MDK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WcyACbMX4FW7Y
You'll need a charger too for the batteries but should run them for hours.
I think you need to go back and consider how long you are wanting to stay in place should you need to generate your own power and triage your power consumption needs in order to carefully map out a solar/battery system. For instance, I have a 3200 watt inverter generator. I plan on keeping enough fuel to run it for a week at most should I need to provide my own power. Beyond that I've planned to leave the area for other areas where there are public services. If shit really hits the fan and there is no where for me to go, then I still see little point in stockpiling resources beyond a few days since I won't be able to defend it from my surrounding neighbors. Your neighbors aren't going to lay down and die while you ride out the apocalypse in relative comfort. A few days of in place resources and then I'm going to be mobile and use some of the survival skills I've developed over the years to try and make it.
You really haven't given any well defined power needs, so we'll just go from what you've said and make certain assumption in this exercise that illustrates how expensive power storage can get.
Each device you want to power will document its wattage ratings. Add them up. Watts = Volts Amps. Once you know how many watts you need to run everything, now you can start figuring out how large of a solar panel array you need as well as the size of the battery array you'll need to be able to power everything at night.
I may be wrong going forward, but this is how I understand it:
Here's a wattage chart.. You'll need to refer to the equipment you want to power to find their specifics, but this will put you in the ball park.
You'll notice "running" wattage and "surge" wattage. You need to be able to accommodate the surge wattage.
Just from what you mentioned, fridge, heater, microwave, you're going to need 5,000 watts to run all three at the same time. 5,000W = 120V 42A. But that's AC power. You need to work with DC power for the solar panels and batteries. Those are going to run at 12 volts. So now you need 417 amps to get 5000 watts from 12 volts.
Here's a 100 amp hour 12v deep cycle lead acid battery for $170. I'm not endorsing it, just using it as an example. u/noone512 noted a Walmart brand 100ah 12v deep cycle for $85ish. I'm going off the price of the battery I can find a link for.
You're going to need 5 of these batteries wired in parallel to get 417 amps. That's $850. It'll run all 3 appliances for 1 hour. If you want to run your appliances for the 12ish hours a day the solar panels aren't working well enough then you'll need 51 batteries wired in parallel. That's $8,670.
But wait! There's more! You can't completely drain your battery array because it'll shorten the life of it. I believe the rule of thumb is drain your batteries no more than 50%. Now you need twice the amperage. You now need 102 batteries at a cost of $17,340.
That's just the batteries which does not include taxes, shipping, electrical wiring, inverters, other components, safety devices, the solar panels, storage building, professional installation, etc.
Personally for local or camping (not air travel) I like the 35-55 AH AGM SLA scooter batteries. (SLA = sealed lead acid aka non-spillable) If you turn of heated hose & humidification (passover humidification is okay) they will last a few nights. See the ResMed battery guide for more detailed run estimates at https://www.resmed.com/us/dam/documents/articles/198103_battery-guide_glo_eng.pdf.
Basic list of parts you need:
Depending on which CPAP machine you have:
Edit: the cigarette adapter is only optional for ResMed since it comes with a clamp adapter - Philips does not. I'd still get one though since it can bolt to the battery terminals.
Lets do a quick run through so you can compare:
The Yeti 1250 is 12v 100ah and 1200 watts for $1250. It has 3 USB and 3 standard plugs + other ins and outs in addition to a solar charger.
A 12v 100ah deep cycle battery off amazon is $159. You would need a charger unit ($50 on amazon) in addition to some basic electrical wiring ($20-50). Then you would need an inverter (this one is $65 w/ three plug ins and two usb inputs) for 1000 watts. Last you would need to invest in a solar charger unit (often comes with solar panel kits and those can run around $30. So probably close to $350-400
So then however you want to store these (plywood box construction and a little DIY elbow grease) you can build essentially the same unit for about 1/4 the cost.
https://www.amazon.com/ERAYAK-Inverter-Alligator-Refrigerator-Cooler-8099U/dp/B019PXILXA/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1482364654&sr=8-17&keywords=12v+inverter
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482364350&sr=8-1&keywords=12v+100+ah+deep+cycle+battery
https://www.amazon.com/Controller-Regulator-Intelligent-Display-12V-24V/dp/B018ICLC3K/ref=sr_1_4?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1482364823&sr=1-4&keywords=solar+charge+controller
Blue Sea Systems 12 Volt Dash Socket - $8.99
Blue Sea Systems m-Series Battery Switch - $34.62
Smartlive LED String lights DC 12V 10m 33feet 100 LEDS,Warm White - $9.99
DROK Digital Multimeter DC 6.5-100V 100A Voltage Amperage Power Energy Meter - $17.89
ISWEES Dual USB Car Cigarette Lighter Socket Splitter 12V Car Charger - $11.89
Blue Sea Systems ST Blade Fuse Block - 12 Circuits with Negative Bus & Cover - $37.24
BEP Digital Voltage Sensing Relay (DVSR) 12/24V - $78.46
BESTEK 400W Power Inverter DC 12V to AC 110V Car Adapter with 5A 4 USB Charging Ports -$35.99
UB121000 12V AGM Battery 100AH - $125.21 + $34.69 Shipping = $159.90
I know your question was about water, but I'd like to rebut that article in general. I'll make sure to focus on water for you though. (TL;DR: I see The_Prepared is already here, and the article you already found is my suggestion.)
Here, I shall make some useful alternate suggestions:
Article Title: Well, I see the lies have already begun. Hey, I know of an article with almost the same name that's actually useful!
My laptop needs at least an 180 watt inverter so that would be pretty useless to me. You can spend the same amount to get a 200 watt inverter along with a much more robust 35AH battery. Or spend a little more and get a 800-1000 watt inverter that can power your laptop plus a few other things and you will have a far more versatile setup. Save your other batteries for your mower, weed eaters, leaf blowers, etc.
Thank you!! We have 600 watts of solar on the roof (which is an obscene amount) and two 200 amp hour sealed lead acid batteries (these guys). Here's the inverter we have.. We basically have standard household appliances: we occasionally use a microwave, we have a toaster, and we have a regular cheapo minifridge. We chose to use our big ol' roof and some space for batteries rather than worrying too much about having the most efficient fridge. Most of the time, though, the solar powers our lights, laptops, and fridge. If you're curious, we found this book very helpful. It's very practical and easy to understand.
As far as the off-grid length:if the batteries have been fully charged on a regular basis, we can live our regular lives (using lights/plugging in laptops) for about three days with little to no sun. If we have good sun, the limiting factor is water. We have 80 gallons of water, and we've found between drinking, eating, washing dishes, and very occasionally ourselves, we can last about two weeks without refilling.
You need a 12v battery coupled with an inverter, or a UPS.
You'll want to check the wattage on your device - that UPS can handle 300 watts. You're looking at several hundred bucks whichever way you go.
What about something like this?
Any 12 volt battery will work.
I'm going to try to make this easy for you. Here is a setup that will provide you with some basic solar power. Don't expect to run your laptop 24/7 , but this will give you plenty of juice to get a few creature comforts in place and you'd probably be able to keep a business class laptop going all day with it.
Total cost is under $400
Try to avoid leaving exposed metal wiring at your connections and make sure you have all the positives and negatives matched up and you now have solar power.
When putting this together, I opted for decent starter solar panel, charge controller, and battery. I skipped details such as multiple outlets, custom lighting, and vent fans because that will add more complication as you're wiring multiple things. You could always upgrade to those later.
Down the road, depending on your needs you may want to upgrade to a 100AH battery (it's much larger and heavier so keep that in mind), add a 2-3 more of the 100W solar panels, and add a vent fan and LED lighting.
Keep in mind that heating, cooling, and refrigeration will not be viable with this setup. To run a good fridge/freezer setup like this one, you'd need probably 200AH of storage and 300W of solar panels to be safe.
Yeah, that would probably work fine but you can go even simpler and cheaper like a glider pilot would:
https://www.amazon.com/UB1290-Computer-Back-Power-Battery/dp/B007XIUPCU
http://www.craggyaero.com/LiFePO/Battery%20Harness%20Anderson%20PowerPole.jpg
One of those 9ah batteries will run a Trig transponder and a radio for a five hour flight easily.
Why not just buy a modern 625? You can get them in multi packs from eBay sellers too. Not sure I fully understand all the people using the wrong batteries and making notes of meter compensation.
I went with AGM deep cycle because they are cheaper, and do not require a battery management system, or an external battery to battery charge controller to charge off the alternator.
I used 3x100 amp hour batteries (https://www.amazon.com/100Ah-SOLAR-WIND-CYCLE-BATTERY/dp/B00S1RT58C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466452542&sr=8-1&keywords=agm+deep+cycle).
That makes $460 including shipping for 150 amp hours of useable battery at 50% depth of discharge.
150 amp hours of lithium ion batteries is $1900 dollars. And then you have to factor in added cost for a battery to battery charger if you want to charge off the alternator.
http://www.lithiumion-batteries.com/lithium-rv-deep-cycle.php
If you aren't an expert on batteries, stick with AGM deep cycle. They are dead easy to use, and here is a video of me running a blendtec off them:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wqF7YbjVpnc
All of those in series would give you 12 volts, but assuming 1800 milliamp-hours (mAh) it would only power the lights for 1.2 continuous hours.
I found this quote "AA alkaline cells have their capacity rated at only 25mA and an end voltage of only 0.8V per cell. At 500mA their capacity is half.
At 0.5A and 1A their voltage quickly drops like a rock."
From this forum: http://www.electro-tech-online.com/general-electronics-chat/100526-aa-battery-max-current-draw.html
So you may have voltage problems with 1.5 amps flowing through those AA's.
Check out something like BigSlowTarget suggests, for example: http://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Sealed-Lead-Acid-Battery/dp/B000BPCUXO
If you look at the description, it says it's only "3.5 x 2.8 x 4.1 inches ; 3.9 pounds", which is comparable to a block of AA's. The SLA batteries should be rechargeable too, but you'd need to buy a charger for them.
For solar:
currently running a rough equivalent of this and this
total comes in just over 1k and has nearly everything you need
These are the specific items I'm currently considering using for these experiments:
Solarpanel: https://www.amazon.com/WindyNation-Battery-Charger-Adjustable-Bracket/dp/B016P4TZCS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473668141&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=12v+solar+panel&psc=1
SLAB: https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP12180-Rechargeable-Battery-Bolts/dp/B00A82A3RK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473668335&sr=8-3&keywords=12v+rechargable+battery
Li-ion: https://www.amazon.com/6800mAh-Battery-Rechargeable-Emergency-Interphone/dp/B01IAT0XK4/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1473668335&sr=8-15&keywords=12v+rechargable+battery
hopefully some of that was helpful, I know it doesn't answer everything, but it's what I know from my experience. outside of that I'm not sure and wouldn't want to lead you astray
The canonet is a great little camera, a little over hyped but still pretty great, enjoy it!
Holy shit. Thank you. I have a UPS sitting in front of me that I was thinking of disposing. Well I guess the old battery will still need to be disposed.
Now to find someone that ships these to Canada.
Edit: They do. 8 bucks shipping plus I don't know how much in customs.
Sure, I will try to list everything here, most of what I got was from Amazon.
$107 HQST 100 Watt,12 Volt Solar Panel
$20 Charge Controller from Amazon
$90 1000W Power Inverter I went overkill for most on this, but I wanted to power a chainsaw if needed, otherwise you would only need to put in $37 for something really good
$11 Battery to inverter cables
$64 35AH 12V Deep Cycle Battery
$14 12V LED lights
$5 light wiring
$6 Switch
$38 Solar Panel Wires
$13 Battery Cables
$16 Conduit Pipe
$17 Unistrut
$13 For the Satellite Mount on eBay
Then figure $20 for various nuts an bolts.
So for me it came out to about $434, but considering that I paid high for my inverter, and over paid on cables/wire (you can use cheaper cables, but I went with the pre-set ones for convenience), you could do it for just over $350.
I use this battery, a wall charger, and a the DC power source for my ResMed AirSense 10 auto. I get two nights off the battery no problem. As a matter of fact, I need to go charge it now for an overnight with the Cub Scouts tomorrow!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A82A3RK/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_TpHQDbBMXSPWM
Those all-in-one power setups always seem kind of expensive to me, for what you are getting. They are all about convenience. You could build your own system for a little cheaper. The storage and output are incredibly low, I thought maybe there was a typo, but it seems to just be a portable phone charger which is what you are looking for.
Here's a tiny 12ah battery, charge controller, and you can get a small inverter. You can beef up these components, or just expand as you go.
​
Honestly, I think a deep cycle yellow top Optima battery would serve you better. You could charge your stuff, and have a reliable starting battery. No fuss, no gizmos.
As a side note, to run it for a week, you'd need this battery (it weighs 64lbs/29kg and is more than 12in/30cm long). I'm sure you can see why trying to do it with a battery would be quite counterproductive if you were aiming for a discreet profile :D
I am going to echo others who suggested that it might be a good idea to prepare a way (or several ways!) to heat food without fire. No point in storing all that rice if you have no plans to cook it. For a bug-in grid-down situation, my plan involves a set of 12 volt deep cycle batteries (which will become part of my battery bank when I eventually save enough money to go solar) and a 400 watt inverter as a power source for a small slow cooker (90 watt) or a small rice cooker (300 watt). What I like about this system is:
It's very effective for boiling water, cooking stored grain, canned food, etc.
It is very quiet, just a little bit of a hum from the inverter fan, unlike a noisy generator, which could attract uninvited guests.
Can safely be used indoors without risk of CO fumes, although you do want to be very careful with any sort of lead acid battery - keep it in a protective container.
Only drawback I see is you do need access to clean drinking water (for cooking and/or clean-up afterwards) and you need to keep lead acid batteries charged or they lose power over time. Stored and maintained properly, this could be a good prep for folks in apartments.
Ran an electrical system in my Subaru with an auxiliary battery charged off the alternator.
80 Amp isolator relay (switches charging on while car is running):
https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SGP38-80-AMP-Battery-Isolator/dp/B001HC6UJ0
100AH 12V AGM battery: https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C
2Ga Wire running the length from the Relay in the engine bay to the battery.
Kinda Extra things:
Kill Switch: https://www.amazon.com/Ampper-Battery-Switch-12-Disconnect/dp/B07413JWLD
100A inline Fuse
Multimeter (read current voltage, Amperage, etc): www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-100V-Display-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B013PKYILS/
If it were me, and I'd been having these issues, I'd replace both batteries just in case. They aren't expensive enough for it to be worth the risk in my opinion. Can't speak to your size constraints, but AGMs are nice because you don't need to top them off or worry as much about fumes. I got these ones for under $200 apiece and they've worked well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S1RT58C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here in Texas, the A/C system would pay for itself after a couple years. In consistent 95º+ heat I would probably spend more money and energy washing sweat-soaked laundry than simply paying to keep cool.
Thanks for the headsup on the batteries! Yeah the VMAX Tanks claim a 8-year float life for no more than 30% regular discharge. But after doing a bit more research, I'm extremely tempted to go with Lithium Iron Phosphate. The only thing is the cost and getting an accurate Pb Ah equivalent rating. Most (e.g. these) seem to be off by a lot.
Something like this ?:
https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP12200-Rechargeable-Threaded-Terminals/dp/B00KC39BE6
Amazon has mighty max 18-22ah for less than $45 they are as small as I've even been bothered to look at
https://www.amazon.com/ML18-12-CB19-12-Rechargeable-Replacement-Battery/dp/B00K8E4WAW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524707694&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=18+ah+agm+battery&dpPl=1&dpID=51YkSt6qH0L&ref=plSrch
You're looking for the Wein cell.
Deep cycle batteries such as AGM or lead acid do not like high discharge rates. Sealed lead acid and AGM do not have to be vented or refilled with distilled water, they are much less tolerant of heat than regular lead acid deep cycle batteries though (which MUST be vented).
Life cycle is how many times can you discharge and recharge a battery and it still be worth a shit. This is the first hard truth in batteries....the more you use it for its purpose the less you can use it. All batteries can only be discharged and recharged so many times no matter how ideal you make the conditions.
AGM...acid glass mat... can be discharged maybe 500 to 750 times IF you only discharge them 50%. I bring up this 50% number because I feel thats a reasonable balance between use and longevity.
A 200 ah AGM battery is $330 delivered with a 2 year guarantee.
Lithium Ion can be discharged to 50% and recharged 2500 times. (they can be discharged much further but the same as AGM the more you discharge the less lifecycles you get) If you only discharge 10% and recharge then this can up to 10,000 times. Its ridiculous!
A 200 ah Lithium Ion battery can cost over $1000. this one is $2000 so you really have to shop around or here is one sort of for $800 You really have to shop around with Lithium Ion. I think these are considered something of the gold standard and 200 ah is going to be $2000 again.
The other consideration is charge and temperature.
Lithium Ion HATE being fully charged and being hot. The battery experts recommend keeping a Lithium Ion battery at about 65% charge and they recommend not to store them above 86 degrees F. Keeping a Li-ion battery fully charged (according to them at least) reduces its number of lifecycles to almost an AGM. This is very bad cost effectiveness because increased lifecycles is what youre paying for with a Li-ion.
The site I linked says that at 65% charge you can squeeze out up to 4000 lifecycles (which is 6 to 8x more than an AGM)....but this presents an interesting "squeeze". If you charge more than 65% you lose life cycles but if you discharge more than 50% you also lose lifecycles, yet using just 15% of your batteries capacity means youre going to really need an expansive battery bank.
So thats the consideration.... lifecycles vs cost. If you pay 6x more for a lithium ion battery than an AGM then you need 6x more discharge cycles to get your money's worth and you need to read up on how to make sure you get it.
I went with AGM because I didnt want to do that. I wanted to hook my batteries up to my solar panels, have them charge up to 100% and I didnt want to give them a second thought.
My system specs are: 8 12volt 100ah AGM batteries wired in series parallel to 48volts https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=solar+battery&qid=1560105771&s=gateway&sr=8-3
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Charge controller is Epever 80 amp mppt https://www.amazon.com/EPEVER-Controller-1000-4000W-Negative-Regulator/dp/B07KP5BY11
It sounds like when you add milk to rice crispies cereal.... I have read AGM should make no noise. Thanks for the response.
You can buy them like https://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-2000mAh-NiMH-Battery-Leads/dp/B077Y9HNTF/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=12v+nimh+battery+pack&qid=1562450990&s=gateway&sr=8-1.
Only 2AH but thats x2-x3 the capacity of either your NiCad or that AGM you linked.
I see you can pickup 5AH C-cells off of amazon 6 for $25. $50 + some pipe (plumbing abs / old flash lights) , spring, wire and solder and you'd have yourself a 12V 5AH NiMH battery bank. Assuming real-estate is there.
Late Edit:
You can screw around with a 4 + a 6 cell holder like https://www.amazon.com/Velleman-BH261B-Battery-Holder-Terminals/dp/B0038Q8BI6/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=6+cell+battery+holder&qid=1562452039&s=gateway&sr=8-5 to sum up to 10 c-cells if you're looking for a cheap prof of concept before chasing down some nice polished Al or thick ABS pipe.
It really depends on what amplifier you use. If you use the Lepai, then a simple 12v lead acid battery will work. If you want to go with a little higher end amp, then you will likely need 2 12v batteries.
I personally recommend going with these to avoid the lead acid issues ScreamingEel mentioned. I just checked camelcamelcamel and they have gotten as low as 125 a piece. They were actually 125 yesterday, which is a killer deal. I think I paid 180 a piece :(
Wein Cell makes a great replacement for the original mercury battery. I'll provide the link below. The battery is the only one that is accurate, and is not too costly. I don't know how long the battery lasts, I hear it usually goes for 3 months before the battery wains. The camera can also shoot fully manual, with no battery in the camera at all. It's very handy for learning to shoot film, and also if the battery runs out you're not completely out of luck. I'd highly recommend the camera, I found it for $70 on eBay in very good condition, only needed new light seals. I love my camera, definitely look into it. http://www.amazon.com/WeinCell-MRB625-Replacement-Battery-PX625/dp/B00009VQJ7
If you want a single battery, get a 100ah lithium iron phosphate... its gonna cost you though...
AGM batteries are only useful for 50% of their advertised AH rating vs like 80%+ for Lifepo, also lifepo are lighter weight, and have more recharge cycles.
I run 2 of these right now to get 100 useful AH, and I am hopeful that in ~3 years when its time to get new batteries the cost of LifePo will have come down b/c they really are vastly superior in every way.
I don't think that upgrading the main battery is really what you're looking for. You could get something small like this that could charge off the alternator (plenty of guides on how to do that) and provide enough juice for lights and phones.
The thing with car batteries is you gotta worry about them flipping and spilling acid into other chambers. Probably won't be an issue, but it can be. Which is why I suggested an AGM. I used something like this https://www.amazon.com/ML35-12-Battery-Replaces-Mighty-product/dp/B00K8E0WAG
First off, to answer your question:
That's almost certainly a flooded battery. It's probably a, "maintenance free" flooded battery. This simply means of course, that it's a piece of junk because you can never add water to it. It'll still off-gas like a normal flooded one though. So not good for indoor use really.
​
Second, you don't want those batteries:
You really need something that's actually deep cycle, not one of those 'hybrid' types used for starting a motor and running a few lights on a boat. You can tell because it states the "CCA" or Cold Cranking Amps. This is a starter battery, not a true deep cycle. It's also a very cheap one, which doesn't bode well for it's performance either in your application.
I'd advise you return those batteries and buy some good, true deep cycle, AGM batteries.
​
This is more in line with what you want, most likely:
Universal UB121000-45978 12v 100AH Deep Cycle AGM Battery 12V
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C/
​
EDIT:
So, here's an (well, maybe) easy test: Pick up the battery and shake it around. If the battery 'sloshes' like it's full of water, then it's flooded for sure. If it doesn't... well, no guarantee either way still.
Note, this will take quite a bit of strength, careful not to hurt yourself.
​
EDIT 2:
So, I've called the local Advance Auto Parts here in my town, and they THINK it's an AGM battery... though the lady didn't sound too sure. Still looking for a data sheet though, that's the only thing I'd trust at the moment without seeing the battery myself.
That's a great deal if the camera works. The SRT 102 has a match needle meter system, but you can operate the camera fully manually without a battery in it, as it is a fully mechanical shutter and aperture system.
In terms of what to check for for the SRT-102 specifically.
Sure.
Should be about $750 for lots of runtime, and compatible with any pump that uses 120VAC. The only open question I have is whether the eyeletts on the battery terminals are 3/8" or 5/16" so I know which wiring set to buy. I emailed the company and waiting for a response.
I used this guide to figure out what I wanted to do - https://www.tripplite.com/support/how-to-select-and-install-inverter-charger-for-sump-pump
EDIT: wow thanks for the gold, kind Internet stranger!
The power wheel runs off of a 9.5ah 12v sealed acid battery, I actually bought a separate 5ah 12v battery to run the stereo and the lights also used these waterproof speakers so I can take out the stereo and hose it out when it gets muddy.
I'm going to be adding two new 12v batteries to the system in a parallel/series switching capacity to momentarily bump the voltage to 24v as a 'turbo button' option in the next couple weeks ;)
Much appreciated! I'm in the US so that doesn't work for me, I've found a 100ah on amazon for the same price though. I think there's a UK alternative too
Also considering getting one of these: 12V Lithium Battery for Tesla Model 3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K4SCB1Y
A bit expensive. But I want lithium everywhere! :-)
Edit: Site for the battery as it’s less “expensive” there: https://www.ohmmu.com/product-page/12v-lithium-battery-for-tesla-model-3
Do you mean this one? I'm pretty sure you're not supposed to use a lithium 12V battery because they can't handle being deep-cycled.
Deep cycle batteries are available in the 90-100AH size (these look like car batteries but are maybe a bit bigger).
You probably need 4 of them (360-400AH). which would be around $200/battery. So not 3500 for batteries but more like 800?
(I used this battery as an example)
That battery pack says "12v" but it's totally different from what people mean when they say "12v battery". I'd go with something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Instapark%C2%AE-Black-Mono-crystalline-charge-controller/dp/B004FOGL0K/ref=pd_bxgy_86_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=1T501PPQ3EGHT5JYTXX5
http://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP12200-Rechargeable-Threaded-Terminals/dp/B00KC39BE6/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1454045541&sr=8-13&keywords=lead+acid+battery
That solar panel comes with a charge controller, I think; forget the diy option, it's just not worth the trouble when you can get one on amazon for five bucks.
You haven't really specified how bad it will be if this thing runs out of power. I don't know where you're located but in most places in winter especially it's not uncommon to have basically zero sunlight for several days at a time. You need to spec your battery to run the load that many nights -- and if it actually goes to that full limit frequently, it'll trash the battery in short order. If there's any chance of the battery running out, you need something to disengage the load, otherwise it'll drain the battery below the point where it's damaged. Some solar charge controllers have that feature.
I'd get one of these and carry it on:
https://www.amazon.com/MOHOO-Bendable-Lightweight-Connector-Compatibility/dp/B06XVWPD7N/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1506055237&sr=8-11&keywords=100+w+folding+solar
Note that you'll need a battery (AGM/sealed) and at minimum a solar charge controller. I like these ones:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0191QN7OO/ref=sxr_rr_xsim_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3008523062&pd_rd_wg=dnE5M&pf_rd_r=86BF01NK65JWJANM0TKG&pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B0191QN7OO&pd_rd_w=BQDtY&pf_rd_i=solar+charge+controller&pd_rd_r=8YE8X122ADP49YFNBB11&ie=UTF8&qid=1506055373&sr=1
Appropriate battery:
https://www.amazon.com/ML35-12-Battery-Replaces-Mighty-product/dp/B00K8E0WAG/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1506055420&sr=8-10&keywords=agm+battery
> I want a brushed motor because that is the old kind that would be period specific technology.
Kind of; the first practical DC motor was built in 1886 and Tesla patented his induction motor in 1887. The modern AC induction motor was patented in 1889 and by 1900 they had surpassed DC motors in stationary applications.
By the time the Model T came out induction motors were more common than DC motors, but you're right that moving motors (cars, trains) were all DC until the 50s. The reason is that DC motors are the only motors that can be well-controlled by varying their voltage. That meant they could be controlled by rheostats and variable voltage. If they were focused on efficiency they'd have taps that would connect more and more batteries in series for a higher voltage.
Taps and rheostats are gonna make for an unpleasant driving experience, but if that's worth it to you then go for it. If you can show off the end of the motor in a cool way then that would be awesome, but do be aware that the best case efficiency of a setup like this is <50%. That's using a commercial, modern motor. I'd recommend you check this paper out, it lays out different motor efficiencies.
> I want to make a simple brushed permanent magnet motor like this I would fabricate everything myself with my cousin who works at a local machine shop and can use it on weekends.
Magnets are the easy part, unfortunately. The steel is much more important and a lot harder to get. You can get laminations made but that'll run you into $XX,XXX pretty easily IIRC. Doesn't hurt to ask though.
If you're considering using a normal low-carbon steel, don't. The drag at 1 Tesla (probably less than your magnets) and 3000 RPM is around 600 watts/kg to hysteresis alone. You'll be burning 25-75 horsepower just to cruise, the motor would need liquid cooling and a car-sized radiator, and that isn't even counting the other losses. You need a real core to make a motor like this.
> I'm asking about what kind of specs are needed for a motor to get about 50hp at around 600RPM.
I don't have time to do the math right now, but that would require some actual design work. Motors prefer to run in the 1000s of RPM, particularly DC motors. Low speeds like that are better for induction motors or even switched-DC motors. A slow DC motor would have to be very, very large.
> I only want a 10 mile range because that is plenty for my daily driving.
Modern electric cars get ~300 Wh/mile, but this setup would run closer to 1000-1600 Wh/mile. You'll also want a large buffer capacity to avoid sulfation, so ~1500 Ah is probably reasonable. Using these batteries that's around $2550 and 960 lbs of batteries.
How about a separate battery bank?
I have this
and two of these in parallel and enclosed in a fishing tackle box (the ISOpwr is mounted to the outside of the tackle box). This portable setup can be removed if needed, but basically stays put in the car to power my Icom dual bander. I've left the Icom on overnight accidentally, and because it's separate from the car battery, have not had issues with flat starting batteries. It charges when the engine runs. No noise, I've run HF (Yeasu FT-857) at 100 watts, engine off, no problems.
I chose this setup to be both my mobile power supply and a removable emergency battery.
Ah. $100 for 8 amp hours (80% of 10 ah). That's not nearly as much power as the ones I linked. $170 for 50ah (50% of 100ah). I'll keep recommending the agms for the time being
edit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S1RT58C/
Depends on your needs. Renogy has great kits at decent prices, you can get the parts a bit cheaper off Amazon but then there's no warranty.
If you're just looking to charge stuff and run a fridge and water pump, 200w is a good place to start. Get the panels, tape them up on the roof using VHB tape (seriously, it's the best way to do it without punching a shitload of holes in the roof, and the tape is extremely strong).
Follow the wiring diagram from Renogy for wiring up the batteries (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S1RT58C/ are the cheapest watt/dollar that you'll find for sealed batteries. I'd recommend sealed over unsealed, adding water etc is a pain in the ass and if you forget the batteries are dead) and the inverter.
Remember, every wire exiting a power source must have a fuse within the first two feet of wire, and every wire must be gauged to handle the max amp load it will face, and must be fused at less than that gauge wire is rated for. Follow those three rules and it'll all be safe if not necessarily pretty. Good luck, and feel free to ask me any questions if they come up!
I just bought, and installed an exhaust fan in the back of my pickup. It works great, and I'm stoked to have power in the back now. It wasn't very difficult to figure out.
I bought this, this, this, this, and this fan. It set me back about $350, but I went with a larger, more powerful solar panel. You'll need some 10 gage wire and crimp connections. Home depot has all those parts.
Here's what it looks like.
Yes. u/funbob suggested the 20Ah version for only ~$5 more, but it has screw type terminals. The TS-180S draws 1.6A on standby, and ~20A on transmit. I would recommend at least three in parallel, which is 60Ah. It would take much longer to charge, but as a backup battery, that should be fine, because a 12v charger/maintainer allows you to leave it plugged in indefinitely, and it will always be charged and ready to use.
Here you go:
Main 1/2hp Pump
I initially had a Zoeller main pump which lasted for about 8 years until the "built-in" float switch died. I could have bought a new switch for it but the pump itself was old and I didn't want to risk it. I read reviews for the new Zoellers, Rigids, and Waynes and decided on the Wayne pump.
Backup Unit
I originally had a Watchdog unit which was 7 yrs old... I went with the Wayne backup based off of Amazon reviews when compared to others. The system includes a great backup pump compared to the crappy Watchdog unit.
Battery
Sorry, the battery was $139 shipped (not $100 as I mentioned). It's a sealed battery as well = no maintenance.
High Water Alarm I bought this inexpensive water sensor which comes with a ~6ft wire sensor
Check Valve: I also stayed away from the metal check valves because my old Zoeller check valve literally rusted apart from what I guess was from the humidity (my sump pump is located in a narrow closet). I went with a fully plastic/rubber one that my house flipping friend got from a plumbing supply store. I have the battery unit outside the closet because of this humidity build up.
Question
Which dedicated float switch are you using? One with a "rod"? Do you plan on using zip ties to hold the switch in the up/on position on your new pump?
Let me know if you have any questions. Good luck.
What are the dimensions? It's the right voltage for a car battery and it looks like it's car battery-sized, but 10Ah is tiny for a car battery. If it fits, you can get a much higher capacity car battery (here's one that's 12V, 35Ah). Odds are you can take that 35 Ah battery and run it 2-3 as longer than the battery you had in there. Otherwise, you can get another 12V, 10Ah battery (here's one) for cheaper. No matter what you get, try to remember to charge before the battery gets too low though because lead acid doesn't like being all the way depleted.
for solar ventilation i use
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01N5L2GM9/ref=twister_B01DEE9AMM?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
with 2 of these
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S1RT58C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
and this fan
https://smile.amazon.com/Fan-Tastic-01100WH-Endless-Breeze-Stand/dp/B0000AY2Z6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485406650&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=12v+fan
The batteries are AGM(https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518147239&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=100ah+deep+cycle+battery) and the controller is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015ZBODDS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 The solar is completely separate from the vans electricity so that wont be an issue. The charge controller and the inverter both display the voltage but I also have a multimeter I can double check with. I set the battery type but I don't see any option for setting the AH. I assumed it wouldn't need to know the AH since it would just turn off once the voltage was high enough. I have the PV off set to 13.7.
I found a couple of really good looking battery deals, what do you think of them? Are they sketchy?
https://www.amazon.com/LiFePO4-Lithium-Phosphate-Off-Grid-Applications/dp/B07QZGFP2S/?th=1
https://www.amazon.com/lithium-LiFePO4-Battery-Electric-Batteries/dp/B07LBFQGKX/?th=1
Do you think the extra $100 is worth the pre-packaged BMS on the 12v100ah options?
I am also thinking about getting the Maxxair 5100 through Amazon, the manual opening one. The reviews on Amazon seem to indicate that if the fan fails it's really hard to get service/replacement. Does anyone have experience with this?
What do you all think of just taking out the starter battery and replacing it with a lithium one, and using that for the house battery?
I use this for my trolling motor and it works great.
https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-Rechargeable-Battery-EXP12330-Replaces/dp/B00KQX5FPQ/ref=gp_aw_ybh_a_17?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=41X9X5F4ZE5SYSEEH9VZ
Idk about using multiple batteries. This one lasts me all day when I'm on the water.
I was actually looking at a 12v 5aH alarm battery that fits the dimensions of the remaining space of the box. it's an SLA but I wish I could find a gel cell with the same dimensions. As for the panel, I've settle on not being able to run the amp on it, but I am pretty certain I can fit a big enough panel for a trickle charge that will at least extend the life of the battery when the lid is open. To fully recharge in a reasonable amount of time I guess I'll just hook it up to my motorcycle tender.
Key here is space for the battery and being able to fit it in the lid for the panel, kind of limits my options but I've been enjoying the learning experience of learning about solar and refreshing on some basics.
Why, the internet of course! Wein makes them and they work - I've got one working in my Nikon F right now and it's been there for years.
Here, or here, or here.
Im looking at this guy right here: ExpertPower EXP12200 12 Volt 20 Ah Rechargeable Battery With Threaded Terminals https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KC39BE6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_p5xJxbKETAZ92 (I don't know how to format links for reddit off the top of my head on mobile)
This is what I use, 100Ah https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S1RT58C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZuLHxbJYEQCWX
Get a sealed deep cycle battery. No maintenance and worry free.
I don't power much. Pump for sink, roof fan, lights, and my electronics so 100 was enough for me. I would say 150 should do the trick and might be too much but you'll need to calculate all that to be sure.
You'll need a 1.35v mercury-equivalent replacement battery, and not just something you pick up at Wal-Mart. Weincell makes a good one.
I bought a 12v 12ah battery for my daughters jeep. I got mine at Frys electronics because I had bought her jeep at a garage sale and she and I were both too excited to wait but you can get them on Amazon too. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A82A2ZS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ka-mxbEQ3Q988
I put a 30 amp fuse inline after I cut the factory plug off also. Next project is to wire a couple up to try out 18-24 volts to see what kind of speeds we can get out of it.
Those look like 12V ~12Ah lead acid batteries, arranged in series for 48V total voltage.
You could buy replacements like this one (measure yours to make sure it's close in dimensions first).
Or you could replace it with a Li-Ion battery pack like this 48V 10Ah model.
As far as range with either of those options I would estimate around 15-20 miles at a speed of ~20mph on flat ground, large hills will reduce it a fairly large amount.
These guys are a great resource to learn about solar. It's geared toward RVs, but because they aren't tech people, the information is very digestible which I like. This video shows them with a 6 panel array drawing 45amps during the day at peak hours.
Chances are, if you go a-la-carte with something like these portable solar panels as a base, and ran a few of these deep cycle batteries in parallel, you'll save some money and be able to better tune the system to your needs. You'll still need a solar controller and if you want 120v plugs, an inverter, but it should be a fun project.
I'd really like to find something that can stand on its own without a sub, since none of my groomsmen will have a sub. Other than the Sprites, it looks like the rest of those were designed to be paired w/ a sub.
I saw the Sprites original design was a boombox, which I thought was pretty cool. I think that would be the most practical form that my groomsmen would use. Then I got to thinking, if it's going to be a boombox it needs to have bluetoof and I need to fit an amp and battery. Here's what I came up w/:
speakers $42.70
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-nd90-8-3-1-2-aluminum-cone-full-range-driver-8-ohm--290-210
port tubes $5.14
http://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-speaker-cabinet-port-tube-1-3-8-id-adjustable--260-388
filter parts $17.19
http://www.parts-express.com/jantzen-audio-090mh-20-awg-air-core-inductor-crossover-coil--255-046
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dnr-20-20-ohm-10w-precision-audio-grade-resistor--004-20
amp $16.99
https://www.amazon.com/INSMA-TDA7492P-Amplifier-Wireless-Bluetooth/dp/B01BTJZFY6/ref=sr_1_1?s=aht&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467991447&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=bluetooth+speaker+amp+board
battery $15
https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP1250-Alarm-Battery-Terminals/dp/B0010Z4MDK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468001600&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=12v+sla+battery
battery charger $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LICD2TU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATW4RRWB3JMSM
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ18WLK/ref=crt_ewc_img_huc_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LUL054Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A11A70Q280RHPK
After adding all that I ended up at about $130 per which is too high. How can I get that down?
What if I used 1 driver per boombox instead of 2...do you think that would still sound decent or is it not going to get loud enough by itself?
hobbyking.com, buy a decent lipo pack and a lipo->5v regulator, relatively cheap. For the 24v, it's up to you, you can get there with rc packs, alternately just buy a ryobi lion trimmer or similar with the 24v packs, you can grab the power directly off the leads.
@24v you're talking around 4aH, so some of the larger lion packs will do, if you go lipo you'll need to run a few more in parallel which is tricky.
The 5v is the easy bit, there are 5v switching regulators everywhere, the 24v is the tricky bit. As I said, something like a ryobi will get you there fast. Otherwise your inverter system will work fine too, just more expensive really.
edit:
Actually, have you considered running 2 sla motorcycle batteries in parallel? http://www.amazon.com/Volt-Alarm-Battery-12v5ah-Hour/dp/B0010Z4MDK ? You can buck down to 5v from there, http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Waterproof-Converter-Switched-Regulator/dp/B00CESVORE , then run your secondary system off that. Seems cheap, easy, not too big and it'll work.
I've worked with mikrotik before, and done 802.11n work, curious what you're trying to do exactly, but assuming it's unidirectional wifi repeating, so you'll have to adjust the interframe spacing and a few other things while you're at it. Think mikrotik mostly uses the atheros chipset so you're looking at hacking the driver slightly (which is unpleasant in the extreme, had to maintain it at an oem for a bit).
I'll make an attempt at specifying a system for you:
This will be sized PER FAN, I'm using a Noctua NF-F12 @ 0.05A & 12V which equates to 0.6 Amps. This is 14.4AH.
Safe depth of discharge (DOD) on a deep cycle battery, generalizing here based on battery chemistry, it about 80% with a longer life at 50% DOD. This 18AH battery will last a few years. Because of the Ringers you should double this battery size per fan.
To charge the battery get a MPPT charger rated for your solar panel amps. The MPPT charger has a minor efficiency loss so add 20% to the amps needed. You need 216 WH of energy (12V*18AH) divided over 5 hours of peak sun and you need about a 50W solar panel.
For cloudy days I suggest doubling your solar panel size.
Ringers:
Snow, Clouds, Cold, Heat, Dust, # cycles, shading, winter sun height, obstructions
sounds above my iq grade but a real stellar idea...
So I could get this: https://www.amazon.com/EXP1250-Terminals-Chamberlain-LiftMaster-Replacement/dp/B0010Z4MDK/ref=zg_bs_389574011_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=4KS108G7HZRV4KP2DW1J
and something like this: https://www.cabelas.com/product/Battery-Tender-reg/734156.uts?productVariantId=3889810&amp;WT.tsrc=PPC&amp;WT.mc_id=GoogleProductAds&amp;WT.z_mc_id1=03913618&amp;rid=20&amp;ds_rl=1252079&amp;gclid=Cj0KCQjw_ZrXBRDXARIsAA8KauSl6RB8_k3tjvSa-RMkw1E3QEnAKG3qsLVUDwcGoMs5PBzu1WslmZIaAmD2EALw_wcB&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds
and something like this: https://www.ebay.com/p/12v-to-9v-Dc-dc-Buck-Converter-Step-Down-Module-Power-Supply-Voltage-Regulator-D/1468959390?iid=183113006956&amp;chn=ps
Not sure I understand the best battery to pick given I don't know how to calculate or predict the necessary amperage rating...
would the order go: wall outlet -> battery tender -> battery -> 12v to 9v converter -> to amp board??
Also thank you for your time and for responding!
Bought this off Amazon, works pretty well.
I can’t speak to the F3, but I love my Canonet. I have an earlier model QL17 with a 45mm lens. I have only used the wein cell battery and my light meter has been very accurate. I usually point towards the ground to meter for shadows and then manually set my exposure.
Previously, I have only shot on canon DSLRs. I have really enjoyed working with a rangefinder. I did a first impressions post in the rangefinders subreddit and all of my posts on analog have been from my Canonet.
Just my 2 cents!
The other option is to pair these two items.
https://www.amazon.com/POTEK-Inverter-Digital-Display-Charging/dp/B01MQM4EDY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494212043&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=potek+inverter
https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP1250-Alarm-Battery-Terminals/dp/B0010Z4MDK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494212143&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=12v+5ah+battery
Not my idea, taken from an older thread. Less elegant, much cheaper.
Or 1200 watts for $180 or $0.14 per watt. Its slightly larger and you can use cheap chargers on it. Lithium maybe the future but the price point is too high for most unless what you're doing is really minimal.
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493771440&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=100+battery+deep
What are you going to run at 120V? That is not minimal. Using an cell phone battery is great for charging cell phones, not much else.
So would this battery suffice as a replacement or no?
WeinCell MRB625 Replacement Battery for PX625/PX13 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009VQJ7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_q3BLBbJ8ED3SD
I’m not an electronics expert, but I’m pretty sure you can use a pretty small 12V batter for basic fish finders. Do some research into something like this... ExpertPower EXP12120 12 Volt 12 Amp Rechargeable battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A82A2ZS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lkFKBbP4QQ48T
Right off the bat it sounds like your meter may be broken. However, there are a few things to check first before declaring that.
Once you've gotten a battery of the correct voltage you can test the meter again. One thing of note is that the meter movement itself is mechanical. It will respond to the aperture ring and shutter speed movement even if the meter itself is dead. The meter only reads from around 2EV to 17EV so make sure you test this in sunlight to see if the meter is actually functional. If you're in a lit room it's possible that the meter simply isn't sensitive enough for the light in the room.
If all of this checks out and the meter is inoperable then I'd say it's pretty safe to call your meter dead. If you have an interest in reviving the meter you can send it to John Hermanson to do a CLA on the camera. I'm pretty sure he can replace the meter cells.
His website is here.
However, given your circumstances that's probably too slow and too expensive.
You can also simply use the camera without a meter. It's a mechanical camera and doesn't need the meter to take photos. You will simply need to employ an external light meter or use Sunny16 or similar exposure rules.
If a light meter in-camera is a must then buying another OM-1 is quite cheap on eBay.
This and perhaps [this] (https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP12180-Rechargeable-Battery-Bolts/dp/B00A82A3RK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486594451&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=18+ah+battery) for away from vehicle play.
Might not be AS portable but hey, saved ya $250. :)
https://www.amazon.com/WeinCell-MRB625-Replacement-Battery-PX625/dp/B00009VQJ7
Battery I use here. Mine was about $10.00 cheaper when I bought it three years ago.
Make sure it's not in A mode when testing. If you don't have a battery it and it's in A it won't fire the shutter. It should when in manual mode though. If it works $50 is a nice price. It's a great camera. I like mine a lot. I stopped putting a battery in mine though, it's not really worth it and the meter probably need calibration. You can get a Wein cell from Amazon though.
https://smile.amazon.com/ExpertPower-Rechargeable-Battery-EXP12330-Replaces/dp/B00KQX5FPQ
It doesn’t hold enough. It would max out quickly in the summer, and the power for the lights would be needed while it wasn’t being charged. Overnight it would drain out. There’s no way I could be able to do that in the PNW winters!
Yes, just a day sailor.
I found the book on Amazon so I'll definitely order it and give it a good read.
This wire is about $90 for 100ft of 12awg triplex wire.
https://www.amazon.com/Ancor-Marine-Grade-Duplex-Cables/dp/B000NV2AVS
And would a single 100Ah battery like this one be sufficient with a 50W solar panel for what I'm trying to do?
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C/
This would be safest if you loaded it with 1.5V batteries https://www.amazon.com/CO-RODE-Battery-Holder-Switch/dp/B00VE7HBMS/
Another option is RC style batteries such as, https://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-2000mAh-NiMH-Battery-Leads/dp/B077Y9HNTF/
Longest life you need a lead acid, https://www.amazon.com/NPP-Rechargeable-Battery-Security-Terminal/dp/B01FYJHP9K/ although you can get them smaller sizes too.
The color temp will be important in your application, check out these bulbs, they have the right color and are very forgiving of low voltage and reverse polarity and are sealed against moisture.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UAALVM6
These are 3w each and put the same light as a 60w light bulb, for 5 hours of run time you'll need 1.25 amp hours of battery per light bulb, you'll also need a low voltage shut off to protect the batteries.
Here's a battery that could run 4 LED's for 5 hours, https://www.amazon.com/EXP1250-Terminals-Chamberlain-LiftMaster-Replacement/dp/B0010Z4MDK
but I'd put in a 10ah battery for redundancy.
Lastly you'll need a solar panel and charge controller,
https://harborfreight.com/home-outdoor/home/solar/100-watt-solar-panel-kit-63585.html
Unfortunately it's not going to fit down the stack, you can lay them leghtwise along the top of the boiler.
I like trains
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A82A2ZS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share is the battery I chose and this is the controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DDCH26N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Oug2CbTNATECY
Thanks to all who replied!
So it got me thinking about how to do it.
I was hoping it would be simpler -- "Buy motor, CAD up some connectors, wire it up, write simple code, go". ( Even that is too complicated, IMHO... )
So, what I've decided to do is make a simpler robot that is closer to what I imagine in difficulty, then scale up.
Here's my BOM so far:
I figure I'll make a more toy version first to see problems, then begin searching for a way to scale up. My initial hope is just to be able to haul the battery around on grass so I get a better sense of the problems I need to solve.
Thanks!
Y que tal estas baterías?
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;source=web&amp;rct=j&amp;url=https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C&amp;ved=2ahUKEwja76SzjYXiAhVyTt8KHcoGBt4QFjAAegQIBhAB&amp;usg=AOvVaw1u9QKt1uQYFQ4Lq4Jcd4MN
Any suggestions for replacing an old mercury px625 battery for a Canonet QL17? So far the best I can find is a Weincell but they're expensive and I hear don't last very long.
http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Electric-209DN-600-Watt-Switch/dp/B001EVKA8G
I'd recommend this over the motion sensor, as those typically don't work as well as they seem. all you would need it this, a sufficient sized battery, your led lights, and some extra wires
Edit:
http://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP12180-Rechargeable-Battery-Bolts/dp/B00A82A3RK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457475167&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=12+v+battery
This battery would be good, just make sure the battery doesn't discharge too much, or they will become acid filled paper weights
It does! But you're gonna need these mercury voltage equivalent replacement batteries to get the right voltage and reading. Alkaline batteries are 1.5V if I'm not mistaken which will throw off the reading. Everything will work fine otherwise!
http://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower%C2%AE-12volt-Battery-Terminals-BLMFM12_5/dp/B0010Z4MDK/
Thats about the smallest I can find. 3.54" (L) x 2.79" (W) x 3.98" (H). If you really wanted to avoid drilling, I dont think it would fit in a normal size water bottle, but some sort of tupperwear with a screw on lid looks like it would fit in the water holding area if you have the talon I am thinking of.
Ive had ACK install a few things on my boats, and they usually only charge me for parts at the north Austin location. I cant imagine it would be much to have them drill the holes to run your cable where you wanted it.
Buy a couple large deep cycle batteries and a battery tender to keep them charged
For example, this battery:
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C/ is 100ah at 12v, which is roughly 1200 watt hours. For comparison, A 3.7v 20,000 mah phone power bank is 74 watt hours.
Get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Chanzon-Cigarette-Terminal-Accessory-Inflator/dp/B07CQMQL9L/ to allow using your car charger with a standalone battery.
Add a 100w solar kit: https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Monocrystalline-Negative-Controller-Connectors/dp/B00BFCNFRM/ if you expect sunny weather during your power outages
Yes! Two of these: Universal UB121000-45978 12v 100AH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S1RT58C?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
If I had enough space I'd get more. When I upgrade to a van I'll probably switch to lithium batteries.
this?
WeinCell MRB625 Replacement Battery for PX625/PX13 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009VQJ7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_odbLBbCN9WDAZ
I think this was what guy here recommended for battery
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C/ref=pd_cp_23_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00S1RT58C&amp;pd_rd_r=TEBEV98G9RP9FWKTHNHV&amp;pd_rd_w=oGJXw&amp;pd_rd_wg=atYQq&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=TEBEV98G9RP9FWKTHNHV
Depending on the stiip voltage....any small 12v leadacid battery.
Else, there are small A23 batteries that might power small amounts for a short time, they are also 12v
not sure what setup you want explained, because I'm not sure what you want. Strips have a + and a - terminal, or wires. +(red) goes to battery +, and - (black) goes to the negative terminal.
Universal Power Group 12V 100Ah Solar Wind AGM SLA DEEP Cycle VRLA Battery 12V 24V 48V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S1RT58C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EN.MDbTQK4FCC
KRIËGER 1100 Watt 12V Power Inverter Dual 110V AC Outlets, Installation Kit Included, Automotive Back Up Power Supply For Blenders, Vacuums, Power Tools MET Approved According to UL and CSA. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T564EIY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8O.MDbT2DB8FY
Renogy 100 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Solar Panel (New Edition) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HFMBF3G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bTBZDb1FFV9EY
EPEVER MPPT Solar Charge Controller 40A 150V PV Solar Panel Controller Negative Ground W/ MT50 Remote Meter + Temperature Sensor PC Monitoring Cable[Tracer4215BN] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07429RK43/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LTBZDbQ4VNMAZ
Universal Power Group 12V 100Ah Solar Wind AGM SLA DEEP Cycle VRLA Battery 12V 24V 48V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S1RT58C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AUBZDbEKFZ000
It's only 50 watts. Assume 60 watts therefore 5 amps. For 3 hours, you need a 15 amp-hour battery. Double that for safety and buy 30 amp-hours or more.
When you buy it, post pictures of the power adapter and the label on it and I'll tell you more. A 100 watt or greater inverter should be fine, but there are other options.
This http://www.amazon.com/ML35-12-Battery-Replaces-Mighty-product/dp/B00K8E0WAG
might be more than enough. I'd try Walmart for one. Get Deep Cycle.
ExpertPower EXP12180 12 Volt 18 Ah Rechargeable Battery with Nuts and Bolts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A82A3RK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KZptybMN92M0G
It takes two of these. SUPER easy to do. I just did two of them this week
Hit me up with any questions.
A bass port is the same as a vented enclosure. the 4.5khz crossover will work. D class amps are industry standard for any sound amplification work. Literally everywhere where power, volume, or price is an issue, people use D class. T class aren't as powerful, and AB aren't efficient enough for battery operation.
As far as a battery, this one has 18ah way more than you need but should allow you to run it for quite some time. Or you could go with the 7ah version it won't last as long but it is smaller, and it is about 1/4 of the weight. Any 12V power supply will work to charge it as long as you put a power switch somewhere between the battery and the amp when you wire it. If you are not comfortable/don't have the tools to splice the power cable correctly, don't do it. Blowing up gear, possibly causing fires, and/or electrical shock is not worth it. It's really easy to do, but if you screw it up, it can be disastrous.
I'm actually intrigued to see how this turns out, on paper it should have an output comparable to that of a commercial loudspeaker in a much smaller package, with the added bonus of being battery powered.
Yeah, comparing the meter against another camera is a good idea. Is it really so expensive to mail it to the States? I've done crazier things. Sent my Pentax from Texas to Tennessee to have it overhauled, although I guess that's not as far.
As an alternate solution, these Wein batteries are specially designed to output the same 1.35V as the original discontinued mercury cells. They're expensive, though: http://www.amazon.com/WeinCell-MRB625-Replacement-Battery-PX625/dp/B00009VQJ7/ref=pd_cp_p_1
I went way different then others and used 4D batteries. I got two NPD12 200ah 12v batteries (Amazon link) and have them in parallel. I built a battery box under the bed and they both fit longways along the width of the bed.
My trailer has a front storage compartment which is just in front of the bedroom so it was a short run out where the old battery was. I was lucky to have a 2,500 watt Prosine inverter/charger collecting dust so I just finished putting that in. If the batteries are half dead the Prosine will start charging at 90ah (rate goes down with time as the batteries fill up).
One thing to consider is upgrading your charger if you plan to use it and that's why I installed the Prosine. I have a generator on board and the 60ah charger would only charge the batteries at 20ah. After a night of running the tank heaters, etc. I'd be running the generator for 4 to 6 hours just to charge back up.
I tried an 80ah charger I had and it wouldn't charge more then around 20ah as well. I believe the trailer charger and other test charger simply don't output the voltage the NPD12 battery needs to start drawing more current. They'd charge around 13.2v according to my battery monitor where the Prosine will charge at 14.2 which is where the NPD spec sheet states the charge voltage should be.
I also have a single solar panel which will take care of charging in the summer months. The generator is used when we're camping in the cold winter so very hot to run the AC for a while.
Depth of discharge.
I'm not sure how you get triple the cost for lithium, even if you can only buy from Amazon and only count up front cost. You're looking at 4x$170 lead batteries or 2x $500 lithium ones (in both cases the cheapest ones Amazon sells), which means $680 vs $1000. For triple the cost ($2040) you could buy name brand lithium instead (Battle Born or Renogy). And of course you're looking at 3000-5000 cycles to 90% DoD from the lithium rather than 300-500 to 50%... that extra zero really does affect the cost per cycle.
The cheapest and easiest thing would be to buy a 4000 watt generator..
You've made it clear you don't want to run a generator. You'll want at least 120-200 amp hours in batteries. Pulling 30a, on one battery from 100% to 40% will kill that battery real quick. Having two will spread the load and extend the lifetime of the batteries. Wire a 10 amp battery charger that you plug an extension cord into every night.
Have a 4000 watt inverter, pure sine not modified, otherwise you will use 120-150 amps in battery power, just to get 60 amps into the scooters (massive efficiency loss). Have that hooked up to your two deep cycle batteries. Run a power strip and plug in all your scooter chargers. Then when your home plug in the shore power to recharge your batteries.
OR BUY A GENERATOR
Let me see what it costs, if it's not too bad I'll save you the trouble. You can buy these on-line for $15 with free shipping , so I want to make sure we can keep the shipping under that, otherwise it's cheaper for you to just buy a new one. ;-)
I'd just put the biggest marine deep cycle battery I can fit as my starting battery, (probably group 31) and get a $100 lithium jump pack in case I ran it down.
Or
You can build your own goal zero type portable battery setup for$200-400. The Yeti 400 is a 33ah 12v AGM deep cycle battery with 300w sine wave inverter and a 12v plug in. It also has features like low battery alarm, displays power usage, and comes with an AC charger. You won't save much $ making it smaller/less powerful, but it will weigh less if you'd like to use a smaller than 33ah battery.
$50-150 for an AGM deep cycle 12v battery, 33ah
$75-150 for a 300w pure sine wave inveter, you can save more money if you don't need pure sine wave or 300w, or don't mind an always on fan
$25-50 for a 12v trickle charger to charge the battery up at home, if you don't have a charger already
$15 for a male to male 12v adapter to charge it from your car, or use your jumper cables.
$10-20 for a 12v socket or two, or a USB charger socket
$10-50 for a battery case to hold the battery and mount the inverter and sockets on
$30 on misc parts like voltage display, wire, and fuses
I found this site, http://amsolar.com, to have a lot of good product options and a whole of info for learning about solar in RVS or in our case vans.
For cheap batteries I was going with this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00S1RT58C/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_2_9?colid=1TNL6GP91VEH0&amp;coliid=I38YJA2080NKGR
Since it is 12V you don't have to stay even in numbers.
As far as solar don't forget your van has an alternator that charges batteries.How much it will charge depends on how much you drive daily, the size of the alternator, and the load demand from you vans accessories on it. Just make sure to get a battery isolator. This may lessen the amount of solar you need.
I'm open to suggestions, but I don't know of any new options that can beat them in that category. Used can be cheaper of course.
My normal recommendation is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S1RT58C these guys, which blow lithium out of the water watt per dollar, and the walmart batteries are even cheaper. I don't normally recommend them because they're unsealed, which is a pain, and includes the risk of destroying it early by forgetting about maintenance, but they are the same capacity for $70 less.
Lithium lasts longer than lead acid (7-10 years vs 3-5), and you can safely use 80% of the nominal capacity without damaging their lifespan instead of just 50% of it for lead acid, but the price difference is still too high to make it worth it.
Since lithium gives you 1.6x the usable capacity (80/50), and lasts twice as long, that results in a price premium factor of 2.6. Aka, a 100 amp hour lithium battery is worth 2.6x the price of a 100ah lead-acid battery. Or, saying that differently, you would have to buy 2.6 100 amp hour lead-acid batteries to get the same capacity over their lifespan as you would get from one 100 amp hour lithium battery over it's lifespan. Lasts 2x as long, and provides .6x more power for the same nominal capacity.
With that said, the lithium equivalent to that walmart battery would be a $260 100ah LiFePo4 battery.
Renogy sells a 100 amp hour LiFePo4 for $899. The cheapest sketchy ebay one I can find is $500 after shipping. Lead acid still rules for capacity by price, by far. Unless, of course, you have a better source than I do
Only real adjustments to this I'd suggest; for charging off the car's alternator, just go with a solenoid. It's cheaper, won't drain your car's battery at all (the smart isolaters do draw a small amount of power all the time), and if you can give your car a jump start if needed by turning the key and letting the house battery charge the car battery. And there's no downsides. Smart isolaters are a waste imo.
Also, save $30 and get the unbranded version of that battery. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S1RT58C
Same specs I believe so it's probably even made in the same factory in China. I've had great results with mine the past few years
not sure what the recharge rate is but i would imagine unless your directly tethering to the terminals then you would be limited to the fuse amperage, typically like 15 amps on a cigarette plug i think?
back on the main topic, maybe something in this article might help? https://teslatap.com/articles/12-volt-battery-compendium/ they dont mention exact rates that i saw but it says "
>The Gen 2 DC-DC converter in the refreshed Model S accepts 220 to 430 VDC at 15 amps, and outputs 9 to 16 VDC. When outputting 12 VDC, it can deliver about 200 amps.
>
>The Model 3 integrates the charger and the DC-DC converter into a single package, the PCS (Power Conversion System)
&#x200B;
IMHO i would just invest in one of those Portable power stations from the likes of Jackery, Anker or Goal Zero especially seeing as how the replacement battery is going for about $500 on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0748GKHZ8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518115896&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=80w+folding+solar&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51GlBo5rIvL&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K8E0WAG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518115963&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=35ah+battery+deep+cycle&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51TNL6zn1RL&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00G8WLW2Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518115996&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=12v%2Bbattery%2Bsocket&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=511ZvmcpmsL&amp;ref=plSrch&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
I thought of getting the yeti 150. But went with this instead due to 2-3x capacity, and cost. The only thing i didn't get was an inverter, which i don't need
THESE are the batteries I have.
Thank you so much! That is incredibly helpful information.
Hypothetically if I were planning to spend about $700 on the solar setup and batteries do you think I would be smarter to save a bit of money on the controller by going PWM rather and MPPT and put it into an extra panel? I could do 3 panels, and 2 of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00S1RT58C/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1488126321&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=12v+solar+battery AGM 12v 100ah batteries. Price would be similar to the golf cart batteries. Would this setup be an improvement?
Also found a good deal on a DC fridge that consumes about 4.2amps which at 12v would be about 50watts and should theoretically be awesome for my setup right?
Do you think
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00S1RT58C/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496172956&amp;sr=8-1-fkmr1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=12v+105ah+agm+battery
Two of these ? It looks like the battery I have i couldn't say for sure though
You'll want an AGM deep cycle battery, not standard car battery. Doesn't really matter what the terminals are like since you can always buy different terminal types. I bought two of these from Amazon for about $170 each before tax and have been happy with them. I've also looked into used lithium batteries from medical devices, but it gets more complicated because you need a battery management system.
It gets expensive if you build a 400ah system, so I would look more into energy efficient devices or solutions. I did a google search for raising chickens in cold weather and it actually says don't over insulate or heat the coop. You said oneconcern is the water freezing, so maybe just focus on that.
I've bought a few of these 200AH AGM deep cycle 4D batteries and am perfectly pleased so far. They are far far cheaper than comparable batteries I've found. The down side to the big 4D batteries is that they're quite heavy, and if you expect to be moving it around a lot maybe not a great idea. The 6v in series vs 12v is a lively debate, but what we know for sure is that deep cycle AGM batteries will give you the best possible performance and last much longer.
I added one of these batteries and am running them in parallel with the original. It will fit in the front truck with a little trimming. Also had to run new wires. Combined with the original battery (or even alone), it runs for days as the linked battery is almost twice the capacity as the original. Also is a bit faster as there is less voltage drop. People also recommend a better charger.
If you do get one, don't run it with the old worn out battery. It will drain the new one faster. If you wanted to run two, you could buy another oem replacement battery as the one I linked will not fit in the rear trunk.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KC39BE6
Had fun building this with my 11 yo as a gift for college freshman. Here's what we used:
8" sched 40 PVC pipe
PVC cement
Talentcell 12v lithium battery
2.1 Bluetooth receiver / amp
12v to 24v booster
Skar 8" dual voice coil sub wired as 4ohm
Infiity 6.5" reference speakers 8ohm
Mats to isolate 6.5" speakers, and this
Passive raidators (semi-sealed enclosure), and this
Rifle swivels and sling, and this
Mounting feet
Clamps for main plate
Finished it in a truck bed liner spray in black on round PVC surfaces and a metallic gray on the faceplate.
One of the tricks was to create a flat faceplate from the PVC by cutting the 8" pipe section, cooking 15 mins at 300F, then flatenning it out with weight / pressure. Next time, I would prob sub a different material for the faceplate just to make it easy.
If I could do it over again, I'd use a thinner PVC pipe. Standard Sched 40 in 8" weights a lot... 5lb / foot plus very heavy end caps that I used to surround both sides. Probably 20 lbs of PVC alone.
Also, struggle to get the thing to be truly enclosed. Significant air escapes around the perimeter of the faceplate despite applying clamp force and a bit of dynamat.
Sounds great though! 18 yo kid loved it! Lots of tight bass and this amp puts out good sound with the right power/amps feeding it. Sorry not an audiophile so not testing results to share.
20W x 3 hours = 60Wh
So you need a 12v battery rated at 5Ah I guess....
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BPCUXO/ref=redir_mdp_mobile
You just won't be able to use the light metering. I have the same camera, and this is the battery I use. Works like a charm
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009VQJ7/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00
So noted. Fortunately weight isn't too much of an issue, since this will all be in a framed backpack.
So, if I'm reading this right, this device: http://amzn.com/B0143NF1YO , has the same power storage as this device: http://amzn.com/B00K8E4WAW . Is that correct?
The small device only puts out 85 watts of power, but has 18 amp hours. So doing the math again; pulling down 40 watts (high estimate of power usage), at 120 volts...
Adjust from 18 amp hours to 1.8 amp hours from converting 12 volt to 120 volt. Amps is equal to watts / volts, so 40 watts into 120 volts is 0.33. So .33 into 1.8 is 5.45. Reduce by 30% to account for inverter, we get 3.6 hours. Is this right?
I don't know if this will help you, but I have this battery https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-Rechargeable-Battery-EXP12330-Replaces/dp/B00KQX5FPQ running a much larger pump (10amps 12VDC.) and it works very well
Thanks brother. I knew someone with more braincells than me this morning could quantify my skepticism. Compared to a motorcycle battery that's numerous times in size yet 30ish amp hours. That makes me think that 40K claim would be the equivalent capacity at 5v.