Best 3d printer accessories according to redditors

We found 1,395 Reddit comments discussing the best 3d printer accessories. We ranked the 401 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about 3D Printer Accessories:

u/blueSGL · 17 pointsr/ender3

That is underextrusion.

you need to do one (or more) of the following:


the hot end hotter. ^1
to print slower. ^1
more tension in the feeder assembly. ^2
to sort out a clog (either full or partial.) ^3
calibrate the E steps and flow rate. ^4




----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

^1
Not all filaments are made equal, I've had rolls of PLA that print fine fast at 210, then others that will gum up the hot end at speed. The printer takes time getting up to speed so some filaments look fine when printing slow or small models. Long paths show this failure I've had filament refuse to print cleanly unless the hot end is set somewhere on the upper side of 225-235 - going to extremes with temp should only be considered after ruling out a clog e.g. a/b the misbehaving filament with another brand and have the other brand work fine at the lower temps/same speed.

^2

Check that the the screw that holds the extruder arm in place has not been over tightened. (if the extruder arm is hard to move or squeaks when you do move it, it's too tight.) https://i.imgur.com/QcUzo5D.jpg
Take a permanent marker and add some ticks onto the tensioner pulley so you can easily see it as it goes around https://i.imgur.com/RplZsN5.png (keep an eye out for small movements where there is not as much inertia acting on it, if you are not getting movements on those there is an issue.) There are spacers you can print to sort this out https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3464217 (shim the spring with anything you can stuff in there, some folded paper or a thin bit of a failed print will work as a stopgap so you can get the spacers printed)

(this can also be fixed by getting a metal extruder)

^3
(make sure to replace the stock bowden couplers they are crap allow the tube to back out and will cause no end of clogs, something like https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07DC594D6/)
Follow this video on how to replace the nozzle paying close attention to the temperature everything is done at and the procedure to make sure the tube is snug with the nozzle. (too loose and you get goo, too tight and you'll squish the bowden tube and get clogs) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FRzsGttNMyk
If you need to clean your nozzle (a big bag of 0.4 nozzles is a worthwhile investment and you can find them cheap on amazon) hold the nozzle in pliers and cooking off everything over a gas burner, use cocktail sticks to remove the majority of the gunk, get the rest out with the acupuncture needle the printer came with. - Needless to say this is all very hot and the plastic can catch fire and drip, so do it somewhere or over something non flammable and easy to clean, I do it over a ceramic stove top with gas burners.


^4

https://mattshub.com/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration/

I'd make an addendum to the above instructions, ideally E-steps should be calibrated without filament running to the hot end, and the altered steps would look something like:

hot end at temp
remove filament completely
undo the bowden coupler
insert filament slightly into feeder,
cut filament flush at the hole the bowden coupler was in
extrude, measure, math, set e-steps,
cut filament flush
extrude, measure, math, set e-steps, save settings.

This way completely removes any sort of partial clog, variance in filament diameter size or issues downstream from the feeder assembly.

u/Iowa_Dave · 17 pointsr/ender3

The plastic extruder is garbage. I've added the aluminum upgrade to three Creality printers and it has been perfect every time.

u/[deleted] · 16 pointsr/prusa3d

Yep, get a silicone sock.

u/Shdwdrgn · 15 pointsr/ender3

Do you mean the little blue clips? They've been coming with those for a number of months, but yeah, do yourself a favor and just get some better quality pieces to begin with. This is what I'm using, as an example.

u/Fl0ssberg · 15 pointsr/ender3

Creality 3D Printer Platform Heated Bed Build Surface Tempered Glass Plate for Ender 3/Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer 235x235x3mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FSM8DK9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Z0KGDbQPPRZFX

16.99 dollhairs to be exact.

u/Tgclark · 12 pointsr/ender3

I've owned the Ender 3 for a few months now and have made a number of upgrades, both purchased and printed. Here's a list of what I have purchased and printed, sorted by importance/usefulness.

 

Purchased Parts:

  1. EZABL - An automatic bed leveling solution that has worked really well for me. TH3D's firmware and documentation are top notch. Once I dialed it in I've had no issues with bed leveling or adhesion. Also note, TH3D is an American company and Tim, the owner, is even a mod of this sub!

  2. Stepper Motor Dampers - A great way to quiet down the printer. My bedroom and office are connected without an intervening door and the dampers allow me to print overnight and still get get to sleep. Some users have had issues with stepper motors running hot with the dampers installed, but I've had no trouble at all, even after 16+ hr prints.

  3. 5015 Blower Fan - For use with the Petsfang Duct, see below.


  4. Assorted M3 Screws - If you're going to be making mods to your printer, you're eventually going to need different sized screws. Having various lengths on hand is super helpful when trying to mount a new part.

     

    Printed Parts:

  5. Filament Guide Arm - This has helped a lot with keeping the filament feeding smooth and preventing under-extrusion issues. There is a more popular model on thingiverse, but I found this version to be stronger and more stable.

  6. Petsfang Cooling Fan Duct - An extremely popular replacement for the part cooling duct and fan. This creates much more even cooling around the filament as its extruded, providing better bridging and better overall print quality. There is a version using a replacement 5015 blower fan, as I have used, and there's a version called the "Bullseye" that uses the stock fan. I chose to replace the stock fan because mine was starting to rattle.

  7. Tool Holder - It sounds frivolous, but having the tools you need right at hand can be a big help in saving a print or performing trouble shooting. Definitely a must have.

  8. LCD Rear Cover - Protects the circuit board behind the LCD, which is exposed from the factory. If you have children like I do, this is a must.

  9. Cable Chain - Routs the various cables to their destinations in a clean way. Looks super cool. Not necessary, but definitely fun. Note, there is an X-axis cable chain setup available, but I found it made excessive noise and wasn't worth the trouble.

  10. Fan Shroud - Protects the main board fan from bits of filament falling down into the casing.

  11. Storage Drawer - A handy little drawer that slides in next to the LCD. I store things like alcohol swabs, razor blades, and other random tools in it.

     

    Future Upgrades:

    Spool Roller - One issue I've found is that the stock spool holder requires excessive force from the extruder to unwind filament. A replacement spool roller with bearings should reduce the friction significantly and produce more even extrusion.

    Metal Extruder - A common problem with the Ender 3 is that it fails to maintain proper tension on the extruder gear, which leads to failure to feed and poor extrusion. An all-metal extruder has been known to fix the issue.





u/sLpFhaWK · 7 pointsr/3Dprinting

Here is a list of things that people will always need, I understand you can't stock everything as overhead is an issue with retail, and storage as well, but most of these are small enough that they can occupy the shelf space you currently have. As for the larger things, like the 2020 extrusions, you could sell them in common lengths of 500mm and 1000mm and let the customer cut them down to the size they need, or just don't carry these at all. It's not a niche item, but for a retail store like you it would be hard to store and maintain, but man, would it be nice to be able to get those locally if i needed a piece for a project instead of having to wait on mail order.

  • PSU 12v/24v
  • Fans 30mm/40mm in 12v/24v
  • PEI 200mm, 250mm, 300mm for Deltas and 300x300 for Cartesian, CoreXY.
  • E3D Hotends
    • v6
    • Volcano
    • Titan Aero
    • Nozzle Variety Pack
    • Thermistors
    • Pro Socks
    • Heater Cartridges
    • Volcano Nozzles
    • Heat Breaks
  • Boro Glass
  • Spatulas similar to this style
  • Plastic Razor Blades
  • Capricorn PTFE Tubing 1.75/3mm variants
  • Screws, Cap head, M3, M4, M5 etc.
  • 2020 Extrusion, 2040 Extrusion etc

    this is just a basic list, others have listed other things as well, Steppers, Belts, Pulleys, Bearings etc. If you want 3d printing as a reason for other people to go to your store, these items will satisfy the need. Just keep prices fair, I have no issue paying a bit more compared to amazon to get it today.
u/FireBookDuo · 7 pointsr/3Dprinting

I got one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VB1U886

Super thin edge gets under the edge of prints without damaging the print or the buildtak.

u/ballzyk0umpa · 7 pointsr/3Dprinting

You didn't specify if you bought a kit or fully assembled, but ill assume it's a kit ;)


-

  1. Follow the online instruction. Grab yourself a laptop/tablet since online has higher res pictures and comments per steps.

  • Before each step see the comments under them to see if others have had trouble or give their alternative insight on an issue.


  1. When assembling it, make sure you are doing this all on a flat, even surface. I did this on my granite kitchen counter top just so i wont run into alignment issues during calibration

  2. Once you have it built, calibrated and working, it is customary (per say) to print a 3D Benchy, to get insight if the printer needs any fine tuning.

  3. Must have recommendation

  1. Start learning (if you haven't) to use Fusion 360 (most preferred), 123D, or TinkerCAD to print you whatever creativity you have.

    AVOID SKETCHUP!!.

  2. Once you have a successful working, printing machine, start printing replacement parts for your printer! As Josef Prusa has stated, it's ok to print the machines parts out of PLA, If you wanna go with something more durable, go for PETG. eSun PETG Orange is what i use. BUT FIRST, make sure you adjust the Slic3r setting and a few test prints to print parts in PETG since it's finicky to work it.
u/Cap_Tight_Pants · 7 pointsr/AnetA8

You have to use a MOSFET for the bed and hotend. Takes the load of those cheap boards.

These are the ones I bought.

3D Printer Heat Bed Power Module SIMPZIA General Add-on Hot Bed Mosfet MOS Tube High Current Load Module for 3D Printer Hot Bed/Hot End(2 Pack)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XY5HBFX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EkS2Cb7EATCBK

u/PiperArrow · 7 pointsr/prusa3d

I'm assuming that you are not using a silicone sock. If you are not, stop trying to print in PETG until you install one. It's just not worth the headache until you have the right setup.

Get this version of the sock, not this version. The sock prevents the material from blobbing around the nozzle. Blobs around the nozzle inevitably cause problems. The material hardens and then chars, and then is likely to collide with layers below. Or the blob will peel up one of the first layers, so that your print is ruined before it even starts.

Using the sock also helps stabilize the hotend temperature when using the fan, and so may solve the problem you are having using the default fan speed. You should do a PID tuning of the extruder heater after installing a silicone sock.

There's a couple of tricks I use to get a PETG print started: For the skirt (not brim), I use Slicer to change the skirt in three ways: First, I make the skirt only 1 layer high. Second, I make the skirt 3 or 4 perimeters wide. Finally, I keep the skirt at least 20 mm away from the print itself. Making the skirt wider on the first layer gets the nozzle into a steady-state where it tends not to blob as much. I make the skirt only 1 layer high because if there is a blob on the first layer, it can catch on the nozzle when the second layer is printing and get pulled up, ruining the print. Finally, I print it far away from the print itself because if the skirts lifts or strings, there's still a chance that the print itself will be OK. This has improved my success rate with PETG a lot, to the point where I almost never have a failed print.

There's one more thing you can do if you print with PETG a lot. I stole this from another Redditor and don't remember who. It's a change to the Slicer gcode that keeps the hot end at 160 C until after the bed leveling, and then heats up the nozzle just prior to the purge. That greatly reduces blobbing as well. But for it to work well you should still use a sock.

Here's the start gcode I use with PrusaSlicer:

G90 ; use absolute coordinates
M83 ; extruder relative mode
M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; set bed temp
M109 S160 ; Set extruder temp before bed level
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; wait for bed temp
G28 W ; home all without mesh bed level
G80 ; mesh bed leveling
M109 S[first_layer_temperature] ; wait for extruder temp
G1 Y-3.0 F1000.0 ; go outside print area
G92 E0.0
G1 E8 ; Purge Bubble

u/Roboticide · 6 pointsr/3Dprinting

I'm noticing a trend involving multi-tailed foxes...

Very cool, but I have a question. Do you think the filament would still be sensitive enough to heat if it was coated in epoxy such as this stuff to give it a nicer, more "sculpture"-like finish? It'd be fun to have something like this, but I typically do everything I can to obscure print lines on display pieces. Can't prime or paint this though, obviously.

u/OpticalNecessity · 6 pointsr/3Dprinting

I will give you my background before my opinions. As everyone has different goals, opinions, and experiences.

I got my printer near the end March of this year. I have something like 2500m of filament run though it, and no idea how much print time.

When I received my printer, my test prints failed and I was pissed. But this community helped improve my Cura settings and started producing usable parts. I then went nuts and printed out a BUNCH of mods. This is by far my most favorite thing. There's always something I can print to improve the quality of the prints.

THe down side is I went too far and got to a point where I couldn't produce anything of quality. So, 2 weeks of tweeking and researching later I'm printing in PETG with beautiful quality and very minimal visible layers.

My most recent project in PETG:
http://i.imgur.com/sVf7S2D.jpg?1

So, now to answer your question...

> How do you like your Maker Select?

I love it. It allowed me to buy a cheaper printer (One of the cheapest at the time @ $350) that produced amazing results. It also has upgrades you can purchase or print to improve the quality, so investing smaller amounts over time to make it better and better. I highly recommend it to anyone who is starting because it does require tweaking which forces you to learn and understand how exactly 3d printers work. A major plus was that this community has a lot of Maker Select users for support, which was a MAJOR plus for me.


As of today, I've purchased the following upgrades:

  • IKEA enclosure - $115
  • LEDs for Inside enclosure - $25
  • MK-9/10 Extruder Gear - $9
  • Micro Swiss All Metal hot End - $50
  • Micro Swiss Lever - $18 (Totally not necessary, but Micro Swiss's support was AMAZING to deal with, and I wanted to support them so I purchased this as well.
  • Misc. M3 and M4 Screws, etc. - ~$25 in total between Amazon Orders and Lowe's for things needed for mods.
  • New 40mm fan because I broke the blade on the one I had. There are cheaper ones than this. - $14
  • 50mm blower fan - $8

    So, in the last ~3 months I've spent an additional $264... Oh god, don't tell my wife! All are totally not necessary, mind you. The only thing I'd 100% recommend you do are print out the following to mods:

    DiiiCooler along with buying the 50mm blower fan. There are cheaper options out there, I just wanted it faster so I bought it through Amazon to get free 2 day shipping.

    z-Brace - This is key, and will run you maybe $15 worst case scenario to get enough M4 screws and the threaded rods.

    Edit: Forgot a couple more things I bought.

  • Lowe's glass - $4 for 2 pieces of 7.9"x7.9" glass
  • Borosilicate Glass - $12 - Amazing adheasing with PLA and ABS. Don't use it right now, though because I'm printing in PETG and I read on here that PETG eats borosilicate glass.
  • Lithium Grease - $7. When I changed my bearing blocks, I had issues with sticking so I purchased some of this to help smoothing out the bearing movement on the polished rods.
  • 3D print removal tool - $5. Printer comes with a larger scraper, but I needed something a bit more fine (thin) and this thing is perfect.
  • Spare bearings - $13 because I broke one of them when swapping to 3d Printed bearing blocks.
  • Digital Calipers - $18

    That's another $59, so $323... I have a problem. again, 95% of this is NOT NECESSARY. I'm just addicted to modding.
u/organic_meatbag · 6 pointsr/3Dprinting

I'm at 2,000 meters of filament printed with my Maker Select, very happy with it, some tips:

-The Maker Select V2.1 is simply a re-brand and upgrade of the Wanhao Duplicator i3. You'll see that name "i3" thrown around more than Maker select, so just be aware they are nearly synonymous


-First, definitely get the blower fan upgrade: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJU6JR2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Buy two of them to have an extra in case of death


-Print out a blower fan housing for that fan: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1025471


The fan upgrade provides a huge improvement in print quality


-Get the all metal hot end from micro swiss: https://www.amazon.com/Hotend-Nozzle-WANHAO-FlashForge-Builder/dp/B01C3HEQZC


-THe "Z-Brace" mod reduces vibrations from the machines movements: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:921948


Some people swear by it, but the print time for those parts is roughly 20-24 hours total. In my 2,000+ meters of print, I haven't bothered because of the print time, but still bought the extra pieces in case I decide to do it.


-I've been mass printing tiles for d&d too, I looked at openforge and decided against that line, but went with TrueTiles instead. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUecWG1W-ss


Highly recommend truetiles over the other tile lines out there - the creator is a crafting genius (look him up on youtube - "wyloch"). They take less plastic, are more versatile, faster print time.


I found that Cura 15.04.x was much better than the recommended Cura 2.5.x. My setting for churning out tiles is something like 210C nozzle, 70 mm/s, 55C bed, 0.25 resolution, 0.8 shell, 10% fill, 2mm retraction, 20mm/s retract speed, 60mm/s travel speed, no brim/raft, no supports. You should print at resolution multiples of 0.04 (because of the way the filament feed gear works), ie. 0.08, 0.12, 0.16, 0.2, etc. I'm going to switch to 0.24 resolution for tiles. I do 0.12 for small figures. The printer can reliably print resolution 0.08 right out of the box (lower the speed to ~35 mm/s) but takes a long time to print.

-The black material on the heated bed is call Buildtak - be careful not to puncture it with the supplied putty knife. Get some blunt tools such as https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A81FXMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

-you don't need any tape, glue stick, hair spray, for buildtak

-Be sure not to use any acetone or alcohol on Buildtak - both will ruin it.

-Apparently you don't really even need to heat the bed with buildtak, the stuff is super effect with first layer adhesion running at room temp. I ruined my original buildtak by using the supplied putty knife to remove a print that was so super stuck to the bed because I kept it heated. Doesn't hurt to keep it heated though, but be aware heat + buildtak = much adhesion

-That slight lip on the butterfly's bottom layer is due to the settings of first layers being laid down slightly thicker than the others. Sometimes called "elephant's foot" it can also be caused by the nozzle being too close to the bed, which will smush those initial layers more than needed. Closer nozzle = more smushed first layer = better adhesion, but with buildtak you can get away with keeping the nozzle further away, and adjusting your cura settings for a first layer thickness equal to the rest of the print

u/loTkv · 5 pointsr/3Dprinting

Batter to be safe than sorry . Got one of these and not disappointed

u/ipswitch000 · 5 pointsr/3Dprinting

The carriage plate needs to be replaced (assuming you have the stock one) it's very thin and bends easily.

https://www.amazon.com/Gulfcoast-Robotics-Carriage-Duplicatior-Printers/dp/B07B251KBS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537520960&sr=8-3&keywords=i3+carriage+plate&dpID=41LSqGT%252BKzL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

had the same problem you did with my i3 plus, installed that a few years ago, and it's been rock solid ever since.

u/dbaderf · 5 pointsr/ender3

I have 22 spools of filament lying about and 4 more arriving today. Of those I think 6 of them are Solutech. While I have some problems with the color in a couple of cases, I've never had any issues with getting them to print. Only filament I have that prints better is the Amolen stuff, but it's expensive.

Your under extrusion issue is one that I've been fighting for two months now. I would get a couple of good prints, then would load a different filament and get the under extruded layers that look just like the ones you're getting. Finally got to the bottom of the problem a couple of days ago.

Try this as an experiment. Pick out a model with a large flat surface like this and print it with a raft. If you're having the issue I was then you'll see diagonal bands of under extrusion, with the bands getting wider as you print larger parts.

I discovered that there was a lot of play in the spring that applies tension to the extruder pinion and when I changed filaments it would change position. No amount of adjustment to the screw that holds it would give me consistent results. I installed this improved all metal version of the extruder from Creality and those went away entirely. Print quality now is at least as good, and maybe better, than I'm getting off of my Tornado and that's saying a lot.

Project for the holiday weekend is to install the BLTouch, and I'll probably swap the extruder out again for the same Titan clone that my Tornado has. If that didn't require a firmware change I probably would have installed it instead of the Creality one. I like the Titan design a lot better.

Good luck and have a wonderful holiday!

u/Bletotum · 5 pointsr/3Dprinting

Get some essential tools: those wire cutty clipper things (for cutting support structures off your prints) and a painter's scalpel for peeling prints off the heatbed.

Consider getting the upgrade kit for the ender 3 pro sometime; the flexible removable heatbed is a HUGE convenience for getting prints off and cleaning the heatbed.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072WS3M9H

This angle bend is EXTREMELY helpful. You don't have to get this specific product, but trust me that you want a tool like this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A81FXMK

The scalpel I bought isn't for sale anymore but this one looks good enough.

u/desrtfx · 5 pointsr/3Dprinting
u/achris94 · 5 pointsr/3Dprinting

For assembly, follow the videos, not the written instructions (if you have them).

As far as mods, at the very least get mosfets like this and also search in this sub for ways people improved their print quality. I know for a fact others will recommend more mods.

Just a heads up, you picked a controversial printer. I have had luck with mine, but it's not perfect and many people are going to let you know that. Be safe, and happy printing!

u/oldcrow · 5 pointsr/ender3

I got something similar and it was because the spring in the extruder clamp wasn't giving enough compression. I mostly solved it by stretching out the spring a bit.

I eventually upgraded to an aluminum extruder and the problem went away for good.

u/drwilhi · 5 pointsr/PrintedMinis

Buy an new extruder, the plastic one will start to wear out after your first roll of PLA. Get one of the all metal ones like this

u/TheSameNameTwice · 5 pointsr/ender3

There wasn't too many that affect the quality of the print, but here's the mods I currently have:
___

BL Touch

Borosilicate Glass

Extruder Filament Guide (for TPU)

TPU Feet

Fan Cover

u/Ansuzalgiz · 4 pointsr/Nerf

I would recommend saving yourself the effort and using something like [XTC-3D](https://www.amazon.com/Smooth-XTC-3D-Performance-Print-Coating/dp/B00PFXK4JY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8
) for smoothing out layer lines instead of sanding. PLA and PETG are painful to sand, and ABS is painful to print.

u/esseff3d · 4 pointsr/3Dprinting

I've been experimenting with different things.

Plastruct Plastic Weld makes a pretty solid bond. The only time I've had trouble with it is lately while trying to bond sections of a sword blade that are 0.3" thick and 3" wide. The sections with the most stress on them can snap if I let it flex enough.

I used Gorilla Glue to glue together pieces that left gaps. It expands and fills, so that was handy. The bond seemed strong, so I'm going to try that on the blade pieces next.

I've also used Loctite gel control super glue and it worked fairly well, but I don't believe the bond is as strong as Plastic Weld.

As for finishing prints, my current method is to use XTC 3D to smooth the print. After that, I prime, sand, and paint using spray paints. I will probably get an airbrush soon to try for nicer looking paint jobs.

u/Nexustar · 4 pointsr/3Dprinting

Not just from prusa, pick and choose. URLs for examples.

Digital caliper, 12" https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EJUBBU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Extra brass nozzles.

Hardened steel nozzle, 0.4mm to 0.6mm for printing abrasive exotics (wood, glow in the dark, carbon fiber etc)

Print removal tool https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VB1U886/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Locktite blue bolt-fixer (Walmart, Home Depo, Lowes etc) to stop bed sensor from moving.


High temp anti-seize for nozzle threads https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0053ZS1Z8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Raspberry Pi 3, 5v Pi 2A Power wart, Micro SD card, & Webcam for octoprint monitoring.

Relay board for Pi/octoprint to power up & down printer remotely. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0057OC5O8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1lb of silica gel to keep filament dry.

Filaments, various.

Fire extinguisher rated for electrical fires.

Dedicated smoke alarm.

u/aliniazi · 4 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Amazon.

I'd recommend the RAMPS 1.4 board as there is already a guide to installing it on the Mini and a BLTouch mechanical probe sensor that is also on Amazon.

Also note you need someway to mount your probe the hot end so since no one has done it yet with Mini (publicly anyways), you'd probably have to design your own mount and print it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0111ZSS2O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017NEGTXC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076PQG1FF/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/rogaldorn · 4 pointsr/prusa3d
u/DinnerMilk · 4 pointsr/ender5

Thanks for making a new thread. You mentioned pre-assembled and quality/reliability over cost, but do you have a general price in mind?

Extruder

The most popular option is to just go with one of the cheap aluminum extruders. These are a considerable improvement over the stock plastic version. There isn't really much assembly involved, you will need to bolt on the extruder plate/lever and put the spring in, but it's about the most simple upgrade there is.

On the more premium end, depending on which version you buy, a genuine Bondtech comes pre-assembled. It's about $70 more expensive and the benefits are negligible, but that's an alternative.

Hotend

The two main choices for Creality machines are the V6 or Micro Swiss (or a clone), both of which do have some assembly involved.

E3D sells their V6 as a bunch of parts that you assemble yourself, but Filastruder offers it as a pre-assembled version. I believe most V6 clones come loosely pre-assembled as well. Keep in mind however that V6 isn't a direct install, you will need some kind of printed bracket / fan duct like the PetsFang to mount it.

The Micro Swiss on the other hand is a drop-in installation on Creality machines. You do have minimal assembly putting a few parts together, but it bolts up to the stock machine without any changes. I wrote a guide that covers how to do it for the Ender-3, but the Ender-5 uses the same hotend carriage design, meaning the steps are the same.

---

I would personally go with the cheap aluminum extruder and a Micro Swiss hotend. This would be a cost efficient, yet effective set of upgrades for the machine. There is minimal assembly involved, but there isn't much on the market that is 100% ready to go.

u/ender32708 · 4 pointsr/ender3

Yep, once you go blue...

Capricorn Bowden PTFE Tubing XS Series 1 Meter for 1.75mm Filament (Genuine Capricorn Premium Tubing) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079P92HN9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RyguDbVRZAVKJ

u/Villagesmithy · 3 pointsr/fo4

Epoxy and lots of sanding.

u/QWERTY_REVEALED · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

I see them so often, that I wonder if it is inevitable with the process. Another approach would be to just smooth them out and paint it. This is a good material for smoothing a print: http://www.amazon.com/XTC-3D-High-Performance-Print-Coating/dp/B00PFXK4JY

u/Kobaj · 3 pointsr/DIY

Most people are telling you it can't be done, but the truth is there are food grade filaments and techniques for printing food safe parts. I don't recommend you do this, but at the same time I'm happy to provide the following information.

u/hmspain · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

My best results have been prints in clear resin, but "transparent" PLA can be enhanced as well.

I bought the following:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PFXK4JY

You mix it like epoxy, and lightly coat the outside. I use my hands (with gloves). It removes minor blemishes, and makes for a "smoother, shinier" part.

It is not for everyone; sometimes I prefer the "frosted" look on a part.

PRO TIP: Buy a box of thumb tacks. Put a bunch of them point up so your part can dry without sticking to anything.

u/Lapislanzer · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

Hey, I highly recommend this spatula

the one that came with my 3d printer was dollar store garbage and would have gouged my buildtak if I hadn't had the lucky foresight to buy this one first.

This one is so thin that it can easily get under parts, just don't "pry" upwards or it'll bend it! (I bent mine but it still works like a champ)

u/IcanCwhatUsay · 3 pointsr/3dprinter

> Thanks in advance for answering my questions.

  • How long have you had your Flashforge, and how much have you printed on it?

    I purchased it last August. (781 hours logged) It's almost litterly been printing out of the box since day one. The only issue I had out of the box is that the one screw on the build plate got bent as a result of the 2 free spools bouncing into it. I ordered a box of them from McMaster and had it fixed by the end of the week. I contacted Lisa on their google chat form and from what I understand, they now come with the screw as a result of my support ticket. This was an annoyance yes, but I've had more issues with my reprap and that costed me more than this pritner when I bought it. (I originally had a Makergear Prusa)

  • What do you like the most and the least about this printer?

    Most: I love the fact that it prints 100% of the times I try to print something. I rarely, and I mean RARELY have a failed print. I love that I can hit print before I go to bed and wake up to a completed part in the morning.

    Least: This is small, and it took a while but I have since out grown the build platform (9x6x6 inches). I recently ordred an 8x12 plate from McMaster and that arrives on monday and we'll see how that works. (PSA this requires removing one of the extruders - if you want more info on this let me know)

  • Have you printed with ABS?

    Yes, no issues. Just close up the printer with the included panels.

  • If so, did you experience any problems such as curling?

    No, I use a glass build plate and a thin coat of purple glue stick. I then spritz water on the plate before each print. I never have a sticking issue and I never have warpage. I personally prefer PLA though since Hatchbox has come to light and makes GREAT PLA

  • Have you had any problems with the metal bed warping or with leveling the bed?

    Like I said just above, I use a glass build plate, so I haven't had any warpage issues with the bp. Leveling the bed is a bit of a challenge but I'm fussy about it and I want it within 0.0005 or less so it takes me a while. The reason I'm fussy is because I've only had to level the bed 2 or 3 times since owning it.

    The first was when I got it

    The second was when I added the glass build plate

    The third was when I removed one extruder and added an aluminum carriage.

    That's it. It never lost it's level and it's gone through 3 moves (like I moved apartment to apartment)

  • Finally, how is the customer service or community support for this printer? Thanks again!

    The only experience I had was with that screw initially. I contacted Lisa on their Google Chat forum and she handled it mostly. Sadly, it wasn't as 'perfect' as I wanted since their solution was to send the printer back instead of sending me a new screw. Never the less, they did try to help on the matter and told me how I could go about getting money for the screw if I so desired. In the long run, it's a screw and I just ordered them from McMaster. I have zero regrets from it and I think I know my printer a bit beter because of it.

    single extruder carriage (PSA: their single extruder block is not FF compatible.

    My Thingiverse for example prints

    Some things I would buy shortly after getting the printer:

    Spare Extruder fan : I tend to slip and put a screw drive in the path of this, shattering the blades. If you're a clutz like me, get it. I've needed 4 so far. ::hangs head in shame::

    Glass Build Plate : Best purchase I've made for my FF. Works great, easy to install and use. Also get thermal sheets and purple elmers glue, and print the spacer found on my Thingiverse page under "Flashforge Upgrades". Also get a spatula, and dikes

    Simplify3D : A lot people tend to spend $X,XXX on a printer and then try to use free software with it and complain when it doesn't print right. To me that's like buying a car without tires. A Corvette ain't shit without a decent set of tires. It's kind of pricy compared to free, I know, but at real CAM programs (which is what this basically is) cost $8,000 or more. It truely is a great printer program and I wish I had purchased it much MUCH sooner than I had.

    Last and most importantly, get the an active cooling fan. I originally printed this, and purchased a 12v power supply and added some fans to it. I have since moved on to the offical one from FF. It's not as good but I haven't really ran into an issue. If I had to print from my right extruder, it would be an issue though. What I liked about it, is that it's a plug and play added on. No "modifications" needed to added.

    TL;DR / Closing thoughts: I would buy this printer again in a heartbeat. ESPECIALLY if they came out with one similar to the Replicator 2 with the 11.9" build plate. Instead it looks like they went a different way judging by CES but oh well, there's always next year. Further more, I think this is a great entry level printer for someone looking to have a printer help with projects and not be one of them. That doesn't mean you can't mod it or upgrade or whatever, it just means you don't have to if you don't want to.


    Hope this helps and answers any questions you might have. Feel free to ask more though!
u/_rupurt · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

I use [these] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWFM1HJ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_OYE.AbP0JQ8X9) brushes for cleaning filament off of the extruder because you will inevitably have prints that leave filament all over the hotend. [These] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00VB1U886/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526590824&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=3d+print+removal+tool&dpPl=1&dpID=31vIt7tpDfL&ref=plSrch) are really cheap and good for removing prints from the bed. One of them should last you several months. You’ll also eventually need to clear out a clogged nozzle so some [nozzle cleaners] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B072JJ7H5P/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526590910&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=3d+printer+nozzle+cleaner) will come in handy.

u/trumpet18 · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

Do you have anything that resembles this with a thin "blade". https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00VB1U886/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483243443&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Printer+removal&dpPl=1&dpID=31vIt7tpDfL&ref=plSrch
If you do you can try to slide the thin part under the part. If you don't have something like that you can remove the bed and put it in a freezer and it should just pop off or you could take off the tape with the print attached.

u/ua2us · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting
u/davebensen22 · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

upgraded carriage plate, should be one of the first things you do, the stock one is flimsy and prone to warping, making the print bed extremely hard to level reliably.

https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Hotend-SLOTTED-Cooling-Wanhao/dp/B01E1HANLS/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497736485&sr=8-1-fkmr3&keywords=i3+plus+all+metal+hotend

all metal hotend will enable you to print at much higher temp, and increase reliability of the print head. not strictly needed, but a great upgrade if you want to print abs, petg, or other higher temp filaments.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HCVJ3K2/ref=sxr_rr_xsim_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3008523062&pd_rd_wg=sUxZ5&pf_rd_r=W5Q7RV181EJYGTBW4YDJ&pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B01HCVJ3K2&pd_rd_w=ZPXZq&pf_rd_i=tri+gorilla&pd_rd_r=F2X8G4XDPCVTNXX6J560&ie=UTF8&qid=1497736655&sr=1

heater bed mosfet upgrade. again, not strictly needed, but also useful for high temp filaments like abs, as you can run the heated bed at higher temps. also solves (small possibility, i3 plus supposedly fixed issue) of stock mosfet burning out and catching fire.

https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=i3+plus+cooler&sa=&dwh=295945a7ab3d0cd

print a cooling fan shroud, i use the ciiicooler, the diiicooler is great as well. preferably in abs. BIG quality improvement, the stock fan is useless.

these are some of the ones i use, and there's a lot of other things you can do, extruder gear, improved bearings, too many to count really, just a matter of how far you want to go for incremental gains. the carriage plate and the cooling fan shroud are the only strictly necessary ones though.

oh and i made my own version of this z-brace, don't have the files anymore unfortunately, but this one is fine:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1653631

that's also something you should do asap.

u/melikeum · 3 pointsr/AnetA8

So far working with the Anet A8 has been an extreme lesson in patience. It's honestly a bad printer but if you're willing to spend time and a little money, you can make it decent. First up should be fire safety. Immediately upgrade to the latest version of Marlin and install a mosfet for at least the bed, if not both the bed and hot end.

I would also recommend ordering new bearings before assembling the printer. The ones it comes with are pure garbage and for $10 it's an easy purchase. Another thing that might be worth investing in immediately is better belts.

After it's assembled and you can print well enough print an X belt tensioner and a Y belt tensioner. After that it might not hurt to print some braces for the weak acrylic frame. If you're hardcore about the frame check out the Anet AM8 upgrade which replaces the acrylic one with metal for about $60.

Good luck!

u/grauenwolf · 3 pointsr/AnetA8

Cheaper than a new house. If you are even remotely considering doing long prints, you gotta get it.

This double pack was only $16 and it comes with instructions.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XY5HBFX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It includes the wires, but I think they're a bit short so I'm buying longer ones for the power supply.



I just printed this holder for it. Look through the files and you'll find the double-version.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2018906



Looking at the instructions, this looks like a trivial change. The 'hardest' part is crimping the connectors to the wires. Other than that, you're just moving some connections from the motherboard to the MOSFET.

I haven't actually done the upgrade myself. I was hoping to last night, but I had to work a double shift. I figure it will take an hour or two, with half that time looking for my wire crimpers and cleaning up the holder I printed.

u/Mario55770 · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

Sure. I heard of them through a redditor as well. This should be the ones I buy, maybe a different posting. I’m only on my second cause of a blob at that(still cheaper than the replacement hotend, but it comes with 3 sleeves so, it’s cheaper with the sleeve.) you might find them as socks is what might be the confusion https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-E3D-Socks-Pack-V6-SOCK-PRO-3PACK/dp/B07779TP4S

u/KommunistKamron · 3 pointsr/CR10

Extruder: get a microswiss hotend for it will be able to print flexible and other materials.
Parts cooling: Upgrade to the petsfang 5015 mod for better print cooling.
Auto bed leveling: Get the TH3D ezabl sensor for great bed leveling.
Other mods: motor dampers to reduce noise and vibration
To smoothers to smooth prints
Raspberry pi for octoprint
All metal extruder
Capricorn tubing
Hope I could help 😀
Links:
micro swiss hotend
petsfang part
ezabl sensor
motor dampers
tl smoothers
octoprint link
all metal extuder
capricorn tubing



Also this is what my petsfang with sensor looks like. https://i.imgur.com/sQahB69.jpg

u/meleshik · 3 pointsr/PrintedMinis

i have an ender 3 pro and after saying no to any upgrades I finally started to see what everyone is talking about 6 months down the road. here is a list of things that you will see a lot of you tubers tell you to replace. the YouTube channel Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors is a great resource for everything about the ender 3.

  1. new boden tube and couplings that are alot better to use then stock https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DC594D6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  2. THIS IS A MUST HAVE! a new metal extruder (eliminates a crap ton of extrusion issues) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079JZ374W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  3. Glass bed (best bed adhesion with 0 cleanup) this is optional but does solve a ton of issues down the road https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JKGNB6W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  4. extra nozzles in a variety of sizes (not needed but nice to play with different sizes and to clear any clogs fast you can just replace the nozzle....i run .2, .4, and .8) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JPZ7TNX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    the YouTube Chanel Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors has a step by step build guide for your ender 3 ( i used it for mine) he will recommend most of this list as well. He also has other videos on the slicer settings you will use for Cura. for D&D models you can use this google doc list https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1PemvBH7LC-hm4KoeA8OXVu5_k963Vpmw7kOEA_1tzWs/edit?pli=1#gid=0
u/hammmmmmmmertime · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

I just ordered this one - should arrive tomorrow. I’ve read reviews saying it’s so much better than the stock one that this should ship with the Ender 3

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07FSM8DK9

u/Shenkoe · 3 pointsr/ender3

If I am understanding correctly, the prints stick everywhere else except the middle. This could be from the heated bed not being completely flat, from either a manufacturer defect, heating the bed can cause it to flex slightly, and also the act of leveling with 4 points will cause stress to the bed and cause it to not be flat.

If you want to resolve the issue there are a few thing you can do. First I recommend getting a glass bed of some kind. I use this: https://www.amazon.com/Glass-Print-Borosilicate-Printer-235x235x3-7mm/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=pd_bxgy_328_2/146-3360479-3249561?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07JKGNB6W&pd_rd_r=1be203f4-8159-11e9-8887-9b31b6cb4217&pd_rd_w=QkaU5&pd_rd_wg=lhVMV&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=MJKHHJRB1R0V6D2Q2C61&psc=1&refRID=MJKHHJRB1R0V6D2Q2C61

with this PEI sheet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GSJSDWR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Second you can do a bed conversion from 4 corners to 3-point leveling. Check this guide by Makeitmakeitmakeit for more info: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3415460

you will need this, made by rrwrex, if you do the conversion: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3193722

​

This is a make of my conversion which I have done on 2 Ender 3s and no longer have to level unless I mess with the bed: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:636770

​

Also check this guide out here tons of good info: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3574369

u/jvkaiaer · 3 pointsr/ender3

Yes my friend

Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet 3D Printer Build Surface 235mm x 235mm (9.3" x 9.3") with Preapplied Laminated 3M 468MP Adhesive for Creality Ender 3 or CR 20 | Made in The USA
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GSJSDWR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gbsPDbPNKDNM9

Glass Print Bed Borosilicate Glass 3D Printer Glass Print Bed 235x235x3.7mm for Ender 3 DC-01 Glass Print Bed Borosilicate Glass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_T-sPDbX4FQ8EG

u/Paral0xy · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

Build plate is tearing up a little when you remove the print.

I suggest purchasing a glass replacement to go over the top of your build plate. Note: You'll have to calibrate your Z-axis a little unless if you get super lucky and the glass plate is exactly the same thickness as your current plate. Amazon has one for $20

u/Anarasha · 3 pointsr/ender3

What you absolutely MUSTTTTTTT!!!! order? Nothing. The printer works as is. But if you want to do yourself a favour, here's a list of what I consider essentials:


- New springs, both bed and extruder. I don't have a link for an extruder one as I upgraded my entire extruder drive frame and that came with a better spring

- A new removable bed. Creality glass bed or glass with a PEI sheet is my bed of choice

- Thermal pad to avoid the annoying bed clamps. Cut squares out of it, lay them in a checkered pattern alternating between thermal pad and nothing and place your bed on top. They will hold the bed in place and help with heating

- Stepper dampers if your printer is anywhere near where you spend your time, it sounds like a bloody jackhammer right out of the box

- New tube fittings, the stock ones are terrible and will give out in a matter of weeks at best. They also barely hold onto the tube

There are a ton of other great upgrades, but I think a good idea is to get a feel for it yourself.

What you can do, however, is check out some printable upgrades. I have this thread where people contributed with their choice of printable upgrades. It's a great list you can refer to later. Essentials on that are the fan guard and LCD back cover simply because the Ender 3 as is has the fan and back of the LCD exposed and that makes it crazy vulnerable to dust and gook damage

u/sbag0024 · 3 pointsr/ender3

I will give you my top 5.

1.The hard yellow springs $5 and you will have extras. These will help your bed stay level longer. I think I need to check mine once every.. 10 prints or so or every other week, maybe longer. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013G5I4US/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vkE6Cb8SHNBVG

2.Glass bed. Lowes for $3 cut 2.5mm. Ender 3 bed known to be warped.

3.Pick up a Raspberry pi ~$50 and install octopi/ octoprint.. free, and a mini b to USB cable $5. Now you don't need the to fiddle with micro SD and can manage everything from PC. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BC6WH7V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_olE6Cb8J91Q1J

And
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P0GI68M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_umE6CbPGSR7T4

4.Raspberry pi cam $25 and longer cable $3 to go with your Raspberry pi octoprint. Now you can monitor prints while "away" .. aka relaxing in your lazy boy watching YouTube vids on how bad season 8 of GOT was. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ER2SKFS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_noE6CbXTHCPDS

And
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M4DAQH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ipE6Cb9RK6QNR


5.Bowden tube $11. Only if you plan on printing hotter then 240c. So petg, abs.. ECT ECT . https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079P92HN9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KjE6CbDMX6SGE



Hope this helps.

u/bobbymake · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

>https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079P92HN9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F1K1LTC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (a bit more than 20$ now sorry! lol)

You get enough from these two products to upgrade more than one printer as well, I love capricorn tubing, I wish it was just standard with every printer also just double checking that you're using 1.75mm filament I don't know the CR10 that well if that's an option that wont work with these products if you're using a larger filament. Good Luck!

u/cgibby94 · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

There are several videos on youtube for first time ender 3 setup. Mostly they cover some detailed orientated techniques like...

  1. make sure all assemblies are square.

  2. The belts should be tight but make a low note when plucked

  3. your bed should not be able to wiggle side to side (tighten rollers)

  4. Your z axis rod shouldn't need to be bent into place (print a spacer after initial assembly and install)

  5. Buy new springs off of amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FY47BX7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

  6. Buy new tube for filament feeder (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079P92HN9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
u/OverTheRanbow · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

https://www.amazon.com/Gulfcoast-Robotics-Carriage-Duplicatior-Printers/dp/B07B251KBS


This is what I use. After replacing the carriage plate and adjusting my Z-brace/lead screws a bit to level my bed once, I no longer bother to re-level it and it prints perfect every time after.

u/reductiveset72 · 3 pointsr/ender3

Yellow springs are stiffer replacements for the bed levelling springs that are stock. They should help keep the bed level meaning you don't need to adjust it as regularly.

The stock Bowden couplers have a habit of coming disconnected, though I believe in newer machines a clip has been included to alleviate this. It's good to have spares anyway.

A glass bed gives you a nice flat print surface and I don't know what I did before I got mine. Many stock beds are warped making this a necessity.

Comgrow Heat Bed Glass Plate 235... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07DSC9TJQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

SIQUK 2 Pieces PTFE Teflon Tube... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07DC594D6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I can't find the link for the springs at the moment, will update when I find them.

u/Duckers_McQuack · 3 pointsr/nOfAileDPriNtS

It's this one. Got it myself.

https://www.amazon.com/Official-Creality-3D-Tempered-235x235x3mm/dp/B07F16WPR5

I had to print at 13mm's for the first layer (or 2-3 layers depending on size) to get prints to stick.

u/sn34k · 2 pointsr/ender3

Most of these are less about upgrading, and more about fixing possible issues. But all of these are great to have and extremely cheap.


As others have said the glass bed and yellow bed springs are great, just be aware the amazon listing on there I used was shipped from china and took almost a month to show up. So pay attention to the shipping times.


The couplers the E3 comes with are straight up garbage. If they are not causing problems yet... they will. These are way better and give you plenty of extras if you ever need them:
https://smile.amazon.com/Ivelink-PC4-M10-Straight-Pneumatic-Extruder/dp/B073TTWWN1/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=ender+3+coupler&qid=1558892247&s=gateway&sr=8-7

​

The PTFE tube it comes with is also not great, any replacement one is usually better, and like others said with Capricorn you can print higher temps, but they also are manufactured to tighter tolerances and have less slack in your system. As to if this is a noticeable difference, it's arguable, but upgrading has fixed problems for some people.
https://smile.amazon.com/Capricorn-Bowden-Tubing-1-75mm-filament/dp/B079P92HN9/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=capricorn+tubing&qid=1558892351&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

Even more important than the tubing it self is the cutter you use, if you buy different tubing, make sure you get a good cutter so the ends don't get pinched. This can cause drag that causes underextrusion.

https://smile.amazon.com/Capricorn-Bowden-Tubing-Cutter-M-Bowden-Cutter/dp/B07N11H963/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=capricorn+tubing&qid=1558892424&s=gateway&sr=8-8

​

The plastic extruder on the E3 is know to wear out after a few months for some. A filament guide will help but a better aluminum extruder should fix it for good. They are cheap and easy to install:

https://smile.amazon.com/HICTOP-Upgraded-Replacement-Aluminum-Extruder/dp/B0761PGLZ4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=ender+3+extruder&qid=1558892498&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

​

Once you want to go deeper down the hole, the two big mods that you will be happy with are A auto bed leveler and quieter stepper motors. There are guides for both of these on youtube and they are much more complicated and a bit more expensive but give amazing results.

​

A BLTouch goes for about $80 with the extension cable so you don't have to cut wires. It will make it so you save an offset and basically rarely have to level your bed again and the machine will account for most of it. There is another type of leveler I think it's called EZABL or something like that, but I liked the BLTouch option better so I never did the research on it.


If you want to do more upgrades like a touch screen, filament rounout sensor, and etc. you need a different main board. Most people upgrade to the MKS Gen L. They are about $25 bucks but require you to also buy new stepper motor drivers, which i'll touch on next. The board has more memory and slots for upgrades that the stock board does not. It does require a lot more setup and printing a new housing for the board. Again there are great youtube videos, just search for 'Ender 3 MKS Gen L'

​

If you think the Ender 3 is loud and would like it to be WAY quieter you can install better stepper motor drivers. The TMC 2208 driver will make the movement almost silent. you will still hear the fans, but the movement sound will completely gone. To install them you will need to either use the above mentioned board (as the stock board has the drivers integrated) or if you want an easier way you can order the Ender 3 Silent Ver 1.4 board:

https://www.creality3donline.com/creality3d-new-upgrade-silent-114-mainboard-for-ender-3-pro-ender-5-customized-und-non-standard-matching_p0147.html

This won't give you the upgradabiliity of the MKS board, but is a direct drop in replacement that gives you the silent steppers.

​

Welcome to family, and I hope some of that was helpful

u/ImOnALampshade · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

You can get the extruder here with a halfway decent tube. That includes a tube but it isn't as good as the capricorn tube, which you can get here. I ended up getting the extruder with the not-as-good tube, and have been running that. I have a capricorn tube on standby in case I need it but so far haven't, so maybe the tube included with that extruder is good enough, but I may also just be lucky.

​

There's no instructions included with that kit, so you'll want to follow along with something online. Here's a video from the same channel I linked to earlier that should help.

u/theDroobot · 2 pointsr/CR10

I actually replaced my whole extrusion path.

First, I found that the spring in the stock extruder assembly would fatigue resulting in under extrusion and jams. The BMG is a little pricey but worth it IMO. Comes with pretty good instructions.

Second, I switched to a Micro-swiss all metal hot-end. I probably didn't need to do this - given I almost never print high-temp materials but did it anyway.

Last, cheapest, and not least, Capricorn Tubing. Do not underestimate the difference this can make.

If you're up to the challenge, I highly recommend a BLTouch. It completely solved my first layer woes (warped bed on my CR-10s).

u/IWasTheFirstKlund · 2 pointsr/Boardgamedeals

Second - some Amazon links for the upgrade pieces I mention:

Springs - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SDDHYN4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bowden Tube - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079P92HN9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Couplings - https://smile.amazon.com/Dorhea-Straight-Pneumatic-Fittings-Accessories/dp/B07NSRCH2W/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=3d+printer+fitting&qid=1574436375&sr=8-15

Extruder - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079JZ374W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

PEI Sheet - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GSJSDWR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Stepper Motor Dampeners - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7FRLNX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bootloader Flashing Kit - https://smile.amazon.com/Gulfcoast-Robotics-Bootloader-Flashing-Duplicator/dp/B07S5BBLKM/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=arduino+uno+ender+3+kit&qid=1574436535&s=industrial&sr=1-3

Note that I didn't buy this flashing kit, but this one seems to have everything you need to get a bootloader onboard the Ender. What happens is you go through a bunch of steps to attach this so the printer and then put a bootloader onto the Ender 3 board. You only have to do that one time, then you can update the firmware as often as you want - typically via a USB cable. I have Octoprint installed, so I can flash my firmware on my basement printers from my upstairs computer using wifi. Super easy and handy.

u/rogerz79 · 2 pointsr/FixMyPrint

Two things I would I highly recommend is to get a new extruder assembly and a new Bowden tube. I've had similar issues and they went away as soon as I changed these parts out.

Upgrade 3D Printer Parts MK8 Extruder Aluminum Alloy Block Bowden Extruder 1.75mm Filament for Creality 3D Ender 3,CR-7,CR-8, CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10 S4, and CR-10 S5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B96QMN2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_6tWTDb1JYN38X

Capricorn Bowden PTFE Tubing XS Series 1 Meter for 1.75mm Filament (Genuine Capricorn Premium Tubing) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079P92HN9/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_vvWTDbKY7ZVTY

These or any other should work

u/StoneforgeMisfit · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Nozzles

PTFE. This is the cadillac option. Cheaper tubing is very cheap, like $5 for 5 feet or something.

I didn't mention these as I haven't installed them, but stepper dampeners. Please see the stickied thread on /r/ender3 about these, if you want to order them!

The springs I ordered. Note: I couldn't quite replace the one where the wires attach to the bed. I didn't play around too much, I just left that one on there. The other three have held solid, and the next time I'm adjusting my bed, I'll try to put that one on there as well.

Hope that helps!

Edit: Reddit markdown not liking my links, I'll try to fix them

u/lapharsical · 2 pointsr/FixMyPrint

I got my Ender 3 Pro about a month ago, performed some upgrades and ran into a few problems, but with some weird caveates.



I'm trying to print multiple miniatures on a single print, but seem to be getting a lot of oozing or stringing issues, but when I test with retraction tests, the test comes out perfect with identical settings. Additionally, when googling around, I couldn't find anything except for potentially a nozzle clog or potentially hydrated filament (possible, I'll test this later)

​

I've tested a few other prints as well, a benchy and a testcube, they print fine. Really curious about what's going on. Do I need to spread the prints out more, use different settings, or is it more of a mechanical issue?

​

I'd appreciate any help you guys have to recommend!

​

So, lets get down to it:

Printer: Creality Ender 3 Pro

Surface: Creality Glass surface

Upgrades: Aluminum extruder upgrade

Capricorn Tubing

New bed springs



In addition to these, I've tightened the X and Y bolts on the runners to reduce wobble -- there's no more wobble, maybe they're too tight? I don't think so, I've had good prints with these settings, but not with a few things.



Settings:

Basically the same as the "normal" settings for the Ender 3 on Cura 4.0.0

But in addition: (And what I think may be important is bolded)

adhesion_type = raft

layer_height = 0.12

support_tree_enable = True

support_type = buildplate

brim_outside_only = False

fill_outline_gaps = True

infill_pattern = cubic

infill_sparse_density = 25

material_final_print_temperature = 180

material_initial_print_temperature = 180

material_print_temperature = 185

optimize_wall_printing_order = True

raft_margin = 10

retraction_amount = 7.5

retraction_speed = 20

speed_print = 30

support_angle = 40

support_conical_enabled = True

support_infill_rate = 50

support_interface_enable = True

support_pattern = lines

** NOTE ** Standard supports are turned off, I'm using the tree supports

support_tree_collision_resolution = 0.15

travel_avoid_supports = True

travel_compensate_overlapping_walls_enabled = False

wall_thickness = 1.2

u/Mayday-J · 2 pointsr/ender3

*may* not be your issue but you will need to recalibrate your estep is you swapped the hob gear (extruder gear) as they are different diameters than the stock one.

​

Total side note for anybody who wants to clean up their links: Anything after the ? is erroneous data for anybody else clicking the link unless it has multiple options to select. This works for most websites, including ebay.

​

Example:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B079P92HN9**?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title**

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B079P92HN9 <-- Really only what is needed.

u/AdversarialPossum42 · 2 pointsr/ender3

I was just doing some test prints to get the bed re-leveled and this fitting decided it didn't want to live any more.

Time to order some new parts, I guess.

u/20_percent_cooler · 2 pointsr/wanhaoi3

My advice (first of all) is to install ADVi3++ if you haven't, the bed-leveing function (under the Tuning menu I think) is pretty good.

Some general advice for the actual leveling process:

  • Start with the knobs tightened enough that the nozzle is too high everywhere and work from there.
  • Underturn each knob during the leveling process. Loosening the knobs adjacent to a corner you're leveling will affect that corner somewhat - e.g., loosening the front left and back right knobs will also lower the bed for the front right corner, so if you adjust the front right corner knob fully, when you loosen the other knobs, the bed will be too close in that corner.
  • Keep making minor adjustments, keeping in mind which corners are high/low, until a piece of paper can be slid under the nozzle with some friction.

    If things still aren't leveling:

  • Mess with your z-axis motors. I actually just used a normal level for this, which worked for me, but you may require more experimentation.
  • Adjust your z-endstop. Especially if you've put a glass bed in place, you may have set your endstop too high or too low to effectively level the bed. Ideally, you want the knobs to be about in the middle of their range while the bed is level. If the knobs are too tight or too loose, wonky things can happen (bed can get pulled sideways slightly)
  • If all else fails, you probably have a warped y-carriage. Mine is warped slightly, and leveling is harder for me than it should be. You can get a replacement y-carriage here, and you can follow this video to replace it.

    Once you can actually get things level, I highly recommend getting some M3 nyloc nuts and replacing the default bed leveling knobs with these. They don't look as nice as the metal/stock ones, but it will prevent vibration/movement from de-leveling your bed as quickly.

    Good luck!
u/livinbythebay · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Its the carriage plate I am talking about not the build plate.

The plate that warps is that thin sheet metal under the build plate. Its what is connected to the bearings on the y axis.

You don't need to test it. I can already tell you it is fucked.

Here is a much better one.

u/Sir_Meeech · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I was going to link you the one I bought for my maker select v2 but it seems they're out of stock.

There is another seller though that has a few but it's a few dollars more than what I paid.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07B251KBS

u/midnightsmith · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Seconding everything people have said here and want to add the following.
A glass bed with 10mil PEI from CS Hyde will do wonders for bed leveling.

Upgrade your Y plate as soon as possible, the stock one warps over enough time making bed leveling nearly impossible.

All metal hotend such as the micro swiss is amazing, no more clogged PTFE tubing, easier to clean if it does.

Z brace is a must, also print a fan cooler like the Diicooler on thingiverse. Replace the stock part cooling fan with a nice radial fan, plenty on amazon, make sure its 12v. This helps prints come out cleaner.

Yours should come with thumbwheels, if not, print some, bed leveling is easier with it.

Print some spring cups as well, keeps the springs straight and not bending when leveling the bed.

DO THE MOSFET MOD TO MAKE IT SAFE!

Watch this vid and do his printed mods https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tpcm4XEbP1Q&t=752s&list=PLyIdpN_zILcknsQzSZSiWhQ685NxkWsvD&index=2

Also, stay far far FAR away from Shaxon filament! It broke my hotend, check my post history to see the red glob of death I dealt with. I have had very good luck with eSun PLA.

Links for bought parts:
Fans: [here (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJU6JR2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)]

Glass plate: [Here (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B2YLWF9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)]

Hotend: [Here(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E1HANLS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)]

Y plate: [Here (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B251KBS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)]

MOSFET: [here(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)] and wires [here(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017U6PGLO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)]

u/Ranadok · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I ordered this one, and it got to me in Canada pretty quick for a decent price: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B251KBS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've literally only done two prints since I got it installed though, so I can't say how big an improvement it is on the original yet.

u/EasyCanon · 2 pointsr/ender3
u/ValveShims · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Not endorsing this specific seller, but this is the part:

Upgrade 3D Printer Parts MK8 Extruder Aluminum Alloy Block Bowden Extruder 1.75mm Filament for Creality 3D Ender 3,CR-7,CR-8, CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10 S4, and CR-10 S5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B96QMN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sWAoDbM7TR505

Just search for Ender 3 extruder upgrade.

u/Okami_G · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

You've absolutely chosen a perfectly good printer. The Pro is just sold with a few conveniences, nothing that will really change print quality and nothing that you can't make better yourself in the long-term.

I will be honest with you. There will be frustrating times ahead. Times when it feels like the bed won't level no matter what you do, when prints won't come out how you like them, when parts fail, etc. And that happens, and it's usually a good time to step away from it for a few days. Don't be discouraged!

Here's some planning ahead advice:

The Bowden Tube couplers that come stock are terrible. Absolutely terrible. They barely hold the tubes in and need plastic clips to function. Grab some replacements early. You may not need a 20 pack, but something in this vein.

The insulation on the heating block (yellow insulation cotton held on with tape) is a bit of a pain. Mine came off just by holding the heat block to change the nozzle. Some silicon socks are cheap as dirt and are easy to take on/off when you need to mess with the hotend.

If an electronic part fails (one of the fans, for example) and you don't want to go out and buy a soldering iron, solder sleeves are a quick and easy alternative.

And finally, the plastic extruder (the place where you feed the filament in) will 100% break. That is a promise. Save yourself some trouble and pick up a metal extruder to give you some peace of mind.

Keep in mind, these are absolutely not things that you need to go out and purchase right now, this is just some fixes to common problems you can reference should one of these issues crop up. You're entirely ready to print right out of the box!

u/TheVapeNaShun · 2 pointsr/StonerEngineering

So far I’ve added
A MK8 aluminum extruder (amazon )
Aokin PTFE tube w/ fittings (amazon )
A printed Fan Cover (thingiverse )
Cable clips (thingiverse )
Tool holders (thingiverse
Z axis motor spacings were the first print too. (thingiverse )

u/scul86 · 2 pointsr/ender3

Underextrusion. I had that same issue until I upgraded to an all metal extruder and calibrated my extruder.

u/CloneWerks · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

+1 for putting a glass bed on the printer. Also the stock extruder gear setup SUCKS! Go ahead and get an all-metal one because that plastic arm will break eventually. The debate rages on about putting sound dampeners on because some folks advocate just replacing the drive controllers (more $$$). Personally I put the dampers on and am really happy with the noise reduction, Also, the fans used stock are all sleeve bearing type. Not a good choice for the hotend which is constantly moving. I say run them until they get noisy/fail and then replace them with some good ball bearing fans (remember if you order replacements that they are 24v, not 12v). Oh and I also put stiffer springs under the bed as well. (See links below)

Links are what I used, there are many options out there....

Glass bed
Creality 3D Printer Platform Heated Bed Build Surface Tempered Glass Plate for Ender 3/Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer 235x235x3mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FSM8DK9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_CvzBCbDCS9RHE

All Metal Extruder Gear
Luxnwatts Creality Aluminum MK8 Extruder Drive Feed Upgraded Replacement for CR-10 CR-10S S4 S5 3D Printer Part https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076PFHM1F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_gwzBCb17T787N

Noise dampers
CCTREE NEMA 17 Stepper Steel and Rubber Vibration Dampers with M3 Screw for Creality CR-10,10S 3D Printer,CNC (Pack of 3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C7FRLNX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_.wzBCb0ANF2QJ

Stiffer bed springs
uxcell 8mm OD 20mm Long Light Load Compression Mould Die Spring Yellow 10pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013G5I4US/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ZxzBCbGVJ10CA

u/franjace · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

These are the ones I bought, and they seem to work fine.

I replaced the spring belt tensioner and just zip tied the belts to stay tightened and it works great. On the Y axis I have an adjustable tensioner I printed. Planning on making one for the X axis soon.

u/ClassH · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Dampers installed pretty easy on the X axis, same as the 3 I used to have. The Y axis is a bit more work which I posted above. I used this exact kind.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7FRLNX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/abracadabra5150 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Nice ! I can see you've done your homework lol, all good choices. I'll just give you a few suggestions then since you've pretty much got it covered. The springs I used on my enders were these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FY47BX7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You might need longer screws, not sure about that, but you can get those at any hardware store, probably around 35mm m3 screws should do the trick. And the motor vibration dampers i used were these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7FRLNX/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 you don't need them on the z-axis, just the x and y. As far as smoothers go, I think the creality boards currently use a4988 stepper drivers, so you'd probably not see any benefit from tl smoothers. I'd definitely recommend the glass bed, since ender 3 print beds are almost always warped to some extent which can make leveling the bed a real pain in the ass. The hardened steel nozzle is cool, just be aware it's not as good at transferring heat to the filament as a brass nozzle, so it prints slower, and it's only useful if you're planning on using abrasive filament like carbon fiber or glow in the dark filament. Pla, petg, wood pla, and abs don't need it. You can actually print anything you want with a brass nozzle, you'd just replace it more often depending on how much abrasive filament you use. Also, don't know which fan shroud you're planning on, but the bullseye is very good and it uses the stock fan : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759439

Sorry about the wall of text lol.

u/NoOneButMike · 2 pointsr/ender3

Thanks for the reply. So far I haven't touched the extruder arm screws so the should be ok but I will check them later tonight.

I have watched the gear and it looks pretty good to my untrained eye. It doesn't appear to be slipping and also doesn't look like its digging in too much. I have had the chance to check out the tube when I was cleaning out the nozzle and hot end and it looks free from any particles.

​

I have purchased https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07DC594D6/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_1NwwCb51ACY2Q and it should be arriving today. So I will try to use https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3203831 to stop any future issues.

​

I will go through the the procedure shown in the video you link and hopefully, this will help.

​

All of this as well as Kamilon's should hopefully resolve my issues.

u/CharlieMBTA · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

While you're at it, you might as well go for an upgrade. I just upgraded mine and my boden tube no longer slides, which means my retraction works a hell of a lot better.

​

https://www.amazon.com/SIQUK-Fitting-Straight-Pneumatic-Filament/dp/B07DC594D6

u/GtownThor · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

This is the only upgrade I would recommend to get right away, everything else should be on a as needed basis.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07DC594D6?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

u/Man_acquiesced · 2 pointsr/ender3

+1... This is a WIN

  1. Small mistakes make great lessons.
  2. Still usable to print 75% as wide as the print bed, at least
  3. Instant excuse to drop $30 on a glass bed. I got this one: Gulfcoast-Robotics-Borosilicate-Creality-Ender3- 4mm thick
u/mordhau5 · 2 pointsr/ender5

Just saw your inquiry about the bed: I'm using this one [Gulfcoast Robotics] 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFTKCV9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/diabetic_debate · 2 pointsr/ender3

I got this one and it is working out great!

So far I have printed PLA and PETG.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFTKCV9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


Glass Bed

u/AWDDude · 2 pointsr/ender3

Honestly I would suggest getting the upgraded motors instead of the dampeners. They will be much quieter and give you better performance. For the bed I got this:
[Gulfcoast Robotics] 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFTKCV9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/massacre3000 · 2 pointsr/ender3

Borosilicate Glass Bed is absolutely worth it. Even when you wait for your bed to cool after printing (you should) you'll struggle removing parts with Ender 3 print surface. With that borosilicate glass, you'll get a perfectly flat surface that will release parts easily after cooling.

The line down the left hand side is now defaulted in the Cura 3.5.x printer profile. You can modify the start and end gcode under Settings > Printer > Manage Printer. The cura folks adapted it from another person who posted it on Youtube and then modified it to improve it a bit. For instance it now starts both bed and the element at the same time.

Finally, Cura 3.5.1, while supposedly fixing the Ender 3 Printer Profile, is still pretty shakey. It doesn't seem to render good gcode. I've switched back to 3.4.1... more of a PSA than resposne to your question.

u/Hades1223 · 2 pointsr/ender3
u/drdoak66 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I'm pretty new to this too, I bought my Ender 3 Pro around the same time as you. Quiet printing is pretty high on my list as well as being able to print high-temp exotic filaments in the long term while maintaining reliability.

First upgrades I purchased were stiffer bed springs so I would be less likely to throw the bed out of level while removing prints or working around the printer and Capricorn XS tube since it has a more consistent internal diameter, fits closer to the filament, and can work with slightly higher temps. I also picked up a pack of bowden couplers recently as I noticed the end nearest the extruder is sliding past the coupler jaws on de/retraction; don't worry about that unless it's an issue for you. That's about $30 alone since I don't have a supply shop locally and have to order those parts in bulk. I had a Pi 3B laying around unused and flashed Octoprint onto it. Highly recommended. I have a replacement Noctua hotend fan, buck converters, and 5015 blower on order to quiet the fan noise; about $32. Just replaced the Meanwell psu fan with a 60x25mm Noctua I had lying around (Note: there may be better options in the 92-120mm range to replace part of the PSU housing, but that's what I had laying around). Next upgrade coming is the SKR Mini E3 with TMC 2209 drivers ($28) to eliminate almost all of the stepper noise. Also looking into a replacement for the control board fan and some vibration isolating feet for the frame. As far as higher temp printing I haven't made a lot of progress aside from buying a titanium all-metal heat brake ($11) winch I have yet to install or inspect, and looking into enclosure and electronics relocation avenues.

Either way the mods I purchased came in at around $100 US which should quiet the printer and help with reliability. Also looking into picking up a good M3-M4 bolt kit if any exist in the US.

Here are some links to the things I picked up and will, which may be helpful if you're in the US. Mostly from Amazon.

Type | Name | Link | Price
---|---|----|----
Reliability | 8mm x 20mm yellow springs | Link | $6.98
Reliability | Capricorn XS Tubing | Link | $11.49
Reliability | PC4-M6 / PC4-M10 Pneumatic Bowden Fittings | Link | $11.99
Silence | Noctua 40mm x 10mm 3-pin fan | Link | $13.95
Silence/Various | LM2596 Adjustable Buck Converters | Link | $10.95
Silence | 24v 5015 Radial Ball Bearing Fans | Link | $7.19
Silence/Various | SKR Mini E3 w/ TMC 2209 drivers | Link | $28.81
High Temp | Titanium All-Metal Heat Brake | Link | $11.52
TOTAL: $102.88 US + Tax

Parts already purchased/ bought with printer

Type | Name | Link | Price
---|---|----|----
Reliability/High Temp | OEM Ender 3 Glass Bed | Link | $20
Reliability | Feeler Guage Set | Link | $5
Reliability | 608zz Bearings, using with this(My Remix), this, and this, though I like this design a bit better | Link | $5.98
QoL Improvement | Raspberry Pi 3B w/ Octoprint | Link | $34.46
Silence | Noctua 60mm x 25mm 3-pin fan, goes with this mod | Link | $14.95
TOTAL: $80.39 US + Tax

Future planned upgrades

u/BlueShellOP · 2 pointsr/ender3

Just to be clear, we're talking about this one, no?

Damn, then I definitely got the wrong bed -I bought a borosilicate glass plate and some glue sticks. I saw that bed on Amazon, but the description implied it only worked on ABS. Too bad, I liked the idea of the Build Tak, and now I'm not really in the mood to buy yet another bed and re-level it again.


But my laziness may win out in a week or so, so who knows.

u/GorrilaCookie · 2 pointsr/ender3

I got this one. I started with a glue stick but found out just washing soap and warm water provides great adhesion. I did increase bed temp to 70 from 60 also.

https://www.amazon.com/Official-Creality-3D-Tempered-235x235x3mm/dp/B07F16WPR5?ref_=bl_dp_s_mw_17936569011

u/Kensik · 2 pointsr/ender3

There is This glass bed with a coating on to that helps stuff to stick. I have it worked for a bit but after about a month stuff would not stick and I started to use hairspray to keep stuff stuck and its working great now. Here it is on amazon as well

u/ArigornStrider · 2 pointsr/ender3

Link: Official Creality 3D Ender 3... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F16WPR5

u/r0bbiedigital · 2 pointsr/tf2
u/almonster2066 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting
u/SearingPhoenix · 2 pointsr/Nerf

You could potentially do an acetone wash.

I use Smooth-On XTC-3D, but it might not be right for your application. It can add some thickness to parts, which in the case of Sledgefire shells might make them unusable.

u/Enverex · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting
u/LavastormSW · 2 pointsr/cosplay

Nice! I'm sure that'll look awesome. I suggest using bondo to fill cracks and divits and XTC-3D or a similar epoxy to cover the entire piece to smooth it out.

u/MissAnnieOakley · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I can't say this is what the "best" method is, just what has worked for me in the past:

  • Coat with epoxy and/or use epoxy putty to deal with any large gaps or to make up for rough edges.

  • Let it dry overnight

  • Then LOTS of sanding. So, so much sanding. I honestly love this part, so carthartic.

  • Spray paint automotive primer. I think the reason it has to be this specific type is because it does a good job of filling in the cracks and holes. I also give it a few rounds of sanding with a 220 grit sandpaper after priming to give it a silky smooth surface (yes, you can sand this type of primer!)


    My biggest gripe with 3D printing was that the ridges were always present. This process makes it so the ridges are non-existent and easier to paint!

    Edit: I should mention I've mostly worked with large scale cosplay props. This process might not work for everything, like you probably don't need to put epoxy on small stuff.
u/TheBobMcCormick · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Not much really. The benefit of buying the mk2s is that you really don't need to modify or swap anything.


Here are a few things you might want in my opinion:

  • You might want some different filaments. You can stick with the brands and types that Prusa includes printing profiles for, or for other brands and types you may have to do some testing to find the right print temperature, speed, cooling, etc. Reading up on that process is a good idea.

  • A paint scraper can be helpful for removing prints from the print bed, just be careful not to scratch the print surface.

  • Some rubbing alcohol. Rubbing alcohol or window cleaner is what Prusa recommends to clean the PEI print bed. You can also use rubbing alcohol for this very cool trick to help loosen stuck prints

  • A good set of calipers can be handy for measuring printed objects, measuring real-world objects you're trying to model things to fit, etc.

  • bookmark some fun things on Thingiverse, MyMiniFactory, etc. that you'd like to print. Especially some small things that you can print quickly in your first few days/weeks with your printer that don't require painting, other parts, etc.

  • I found my printer printed much better after I calibrated the Extruder and the Z-height. A decent extruder calibration process for the Prusa can be found here. The same site has some info on calibrating z-height, or I had good luck with this method. Mine was a kit though, so it's possible those are pre-calibrated with the assembled printer.

  • You can buy different size and different material nozzles for the e3d hotend. Hardened steel nozzles are recommended for most of the filaments that have stuff embedded in them (carbon fiber, wood, etc) as those are really abrasive on the standard brass nozzle and can deform it internally,, causing later printing problems.

  • Paint, sealant or epoxy can be useful for finishing up models. I haven't tried it myself, but I've seen pictures of some awesome results using this epoxy to give a smooth, hardened finish to your prints. Standard acrylic hobby paints are also great for color and pizzazz to your finished prints, especially more artsy stuff.
u/citricacidx · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Looks good. I've been wanting to print up a car too.

You should look into XTC-3D.

u/ShreddinPB · 2 pointsr/airsoft

I used this on my 3D printed upper/battery compartment
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PFXK4JY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It worked great! Took a couple hours to sand after but then just primered it and thats it.
http://imgur.com/a/yMRjP

u/DMUSER · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

You can order this stuff off Amazon and it's specifically made for 3d prints. The ones I've done have a mirror finish, and you can tint it directly to make candy automotive style finishes. Or you can prime it and paint it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PFXK4JY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1525533010&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=xtc-3d&dpPl=1&dpID=51jOz30NOXL&ref=plSrch

u/fetchbeer · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I'm not sure how much help I'll be, but I also use a Flashforge Creator Pro...

1: If you're sick of dealing with abs, just put some blue painters tape on the bed and print PLA, once you open up the thing enough and modify your settings it does PLA perfectly well.

2: PVA glue stick, (though it looks like you are already using this) helps with bed adhesion with ABS and also gives you a bit of an ablative layer for when you are scraping things back off.

3: get a print removal tool like https://smile.amazon.com/ToyBuilder-Labs-Print-Removal-Tool/dp/B00VB1U886/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494526580&sr=8-4&keywords=print+removal+tool to help pry things off the bed without destroying the sheet.

4: rafts, these really help with getting things off the bed, you waste quite a bit of plastic, but it's much easier to get things off.

5: bed level (and height) adjustment (and this really should be number 1) the little plastic sheet they give you to slide under the nozzle is of no real value, you may just be printing the first layer way too close to the bed, and absolutely squishing the filament into the bed. It is far more useful to just print a leveling pattern and then see where the bed needs adjustment and how it's extruding than to even bother with pulling the sheet out from under the head. I use this one http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:97151 and generally will tweak things until the strands are attached but will come off with my fingernails.

u/Coltron0 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting
u/Deadpaul_ · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Also, if you're using a standard putty knife on the bed: dont. Them edges be too sharp for the PEI to handle. I use something like this which saved my PEI from certain death a few times.

u/boomerbwm · 2 pointsr/AnycubicPhoton

Seconding ChituBox, it's a lot better at supports and just overall usability.

Also, I've had zero issue removing prints from the plate by using a thin metal scraper. The one I've been using is here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A81FXMK

The shorter one is perfect for getting under prints with a little bit of force.

u/throwaway_for_keeps · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

"v2.1" is a label that means nothing anymore, since there have been four revisions of v2.1 and the most current model is still called v2.1

Wanhao has never done a "mosfet change" in the board, they upgraded under-rated connectors to properly handle the amount of power needed to pass through them; they didn't add anything.

If you want to be sure, open the box and look at things for yourself.

Edit: Apparently Wanhao did update a mosfet. But I haven't seen any reports of someone who had something like this in their printer. It's likely the updated mosfet is visually identical to what they replaced.

u/gootarts · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

There are a couple ones I've seen in tutorials: I used this, but seen some youtubers use this.

u/serenityunlimited · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Would it be worth the extra $10 to get this board instead?

TriGorilla Mosfet Board?

u/HelpDesk7 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Everything he said is spot on. I have 4 cheap Chinese printers and those are all the recommended upgrades regardless of the brand.

I recommend this power supply. It can provide 50% more power and has a cooling fan.

These mosfets have worked very well for me and lowered bed heating times significantly as well as make your printer a lot safer.

Personally I haven't had any issues with the bed connector, but maybe some epoxy or hot glue would keep the wires from moving around too much.

One of the best upgrades I did was to flash Marlin onto the board as the stock firmware is kind of crappy.
This also allows the use of a Inductive proximity sensor which makes leveling the bed significantly easier.

The bearings he recommended, the Drylin ones, will make the movements of your printer a little smoother and a lot quieter.

The belts stretch. The ones from China are rarely reinforced. I'm lazy so i just tighten them every so often. But it would be worthwhile to just start with the higher end reinforced belts.

That aside, once your printer is up and running and somewhat calibrated, head over to thingiverse and search for your printer. There are thousands of upgrades available.

Good luck!

u/therealelle · 2 pointsr/AnetA8

I believe these are what you are looking for?

Igus 8 linear bearings. They were the suggested replacement when I got my A8 many moons ago.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPRCMJS/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_awdb_S8joDbFR7WG1C

u/thymoral · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I think that the bearing failure might be cause by over-tightening the u-bracket holding it one. I also had this failure and I ended up replacing the bearings with solid polymer ones that seem to work pretty well so far.
https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Solid-Polymer-LM8UU-Bearing/dp/B06XPRCMJS

u/telijah · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I've had zero issues with mine, and do not use ANY lubrication... I over tightened my bearings which caused a lot of noise, so when I went to replace them with the drylins, I also completely cleaned the rods they went onto, so that may be why I am not having issues. Been running them for about two months now. These are the ones I ordered, if it matters

u/Yeti_CH · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

for ABS i like to enclosure the Printer, so i can keep the heat in. Also i suggest: Do upgrade to Mosfet Modules if you printing ABS a lot, it will prevent the board of casing fire. The connecters to the board are known to start fires. If you want a quick solution, but some brass sleeves over the wires.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/kNMAAOSwhfdaavKJ/s-l300.jpg

Never ever try to solder them together, solder joints weakens the thing and after some movement it brake loose, casing desaster. Also put some strainreliefs on both ends of the cable. Don't try to drill holes in the acrylic, as it most likley shatters the frame, instead i always glued stuff to it.

​

https://www.3ders.org/articles/20150726-new-ikea-hack-lets-you-create-a-3d-printer-enclosure-for-cheap.html

It's a cheap IKEA tabel to put over. I wanted to stack two of them, but the problem was the mass of the construction (or the lack of it), as it wobbels a lot i would only advice to cover it on top of a tabel...

​

​

here are the files you asked for:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1NjCn8OF8ddrGB06XAqb-PJJHnOPvXwVJ

​

they are a bit crude tho, i did not bother to add a mounts to the chassie, i just glued it on as i mentioned, drilling into it may case cracks. Also the slots for the sd card etc. could be worked out a bit finer and more accurate. but it will hold down with short m3 screws.

​

don't forget to connect all GND (so one screw from each board) to GND of the powersupply. So in case of a short circut the fuse can blow before anything can catch fire. Even more so if you upgrade to MOSFET.

https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Module-SIMPZIA-General-Current/dp/B06XY5HBFX/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1539565222&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=3d+printer+mosfet&psc=1

​

Cheers and happy printing

Roger


​

u/btalbot85 · 2 pointsr/ender3

Yep Capricorn often rocks. I am in the U.S. so these links may or may not help.

BLtouch kit https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Upgraded-BLTouch-Leveling-Accessories/dp/B07WK3T7S7/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=bltouch&qid=1574763211&sprefix=bltou&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzNUtFTUhQUTcwMDc3JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODcyMTkyM0RJVExFMUE4SVMyWiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDI0MTQ0MTEzOVNSVjZPOTNQQyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

Bigtreetech SKR Mini E3 https://www.amazon.com/BIGTREETECH-Control-TMC2209-Printer-Creality/dp/B07XYW21J3/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=mini+e3&qid=1574763284&sr=8-1

Aluminum Extruder
https://www.amazon.com/HICTOP-Upgraded-Replacement-Aluminum-Extruder/dp/B0761PGLZ4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=bowden+aluminum+Extruder&qid=1574763338&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyNTBSWEdBMFREUzZYJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTM0MzM4MkpCSFA3RFpRVzFZTCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDA2MDY2MlQ4TTRZVE5URzdTSSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

You already have a magnetic bed since you grabbed the pro version. The board I linked is silent , you will be impressed if you get it. The BLtouch makes bed leveling much easier and in my opinion is worth the extra cash. It just makes things easier. The aluminum extruder negates having to worry about the plastic one wearing out. Also look into getting a raspberry pi and running octoprint. That's another must have upgrade as well. Your going to love the Ender 3, enjoy it!!

u/Insanely_Mclean · 2 pointsr/FixMyPrint

Check your extruder drive gear. If the gear is turning but the idler wheel isn't, that means there isn't enough pressure on the filament.

Steps to fix:

  • Check the gear to see if it's clogged with plastic dust
  • squeeze the lever arm and spin the idler wheel by hand to see if it's stuck.
  • If the idler wheel spins freely, wedge a spacer under the spring to increase pressure on the idler wheel.

    Though I recommend upgrading to an all aluminum set up like this one.
u/minidude140 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

It was 35 on Amazon 40 with the 1 M extension cable.

Here's a link

u/ElmoC60 · 2 pointsr/prusa3d

Genuine E3D V6 Socks Pro (Pack of 3) (V6-SOCK-PRO-3PACK) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07779TP4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HkIRBbMK27K4Q

u/pallladin · 2 pointsr/prusa3d

Buy some extruder socks to avoid this problem next time.

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-E3D-Socks-Pack-V6-SOCK-PRO-3PACK/dp/B07779TP4S

u/pterencephalon · 2 pointsr/prusa3d

Nozzle sock

I didn't get one at first and my nozzle/hot end got covered in all kinds of scrap that melted on and then burned on, and I started to get little dark blobs in my prints. Keeping it clean also makes it easier to change the nozzle.

u/42pizza · 2 pointsr/FixMyPrint

>If it were me I'd probably switch back to my standard filament just to make sure my printer is still working like I'm used to. It's way better to troubleshoot a known-known.

This is actually exactly what I just did! And to my surprise, I had the same problem with the previous filament.
I actually found the issue now! At the same time I put in place the new nozzle, I also put in place one of these E3d silicon socks. And it seems this silicon sock is preventing the print to be properly cooled by my fan shroud!
I just removed it and tried again and now the print looks fine. Now I just have to try again with the glow in the dark filament but my guess is that it's gonna work!

u/borrismchenryjriii · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

For me, the extruder assembly was the problem, and didn't grip the filament enough.

https://www.amazon.com/CHPOWER-Extruder-Upgraded-Replacement-Extruders/dp/B079JZ374W

I bought that and it worked great, then I upgraded to a bondtech extruder and have had zero issues since

u/Pinkhippo11 · 2 pointsr/ender3

I found this metal replacement for $11 on amazon when I had this issue a few weeks ago, such great value

CHPOWER CR-10 Extruder Upgraded Replacement, Aluminum MK8 Drive Feed 3D Printer Extruders for Creality Ender 3, CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10 S4, CR-10 S5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JZ374W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NzsODb9EGYASC

u/give_me_some_spacex · 2 pointsr/CR10

If it slipped out, then your part is malfunctioning. Go ahead and order those couplers they really do make a world of difference. Also this is the other part I was referring to:
CHPOWER CR-10 Extruder Upgraded Replacement, Aluminum MK8 Drive Feed 3D Printer Extruders for Creality Ender 3, CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10 S4, CR-10 S5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JZ374W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UsYUDbSXJ318G
The hole where your filament feeds into the Bowden tube will wear down over time due to friction. This part needs to be stronger than your filament or it was start to jam/slip.

u/yacmed · 2 pointsr/ender3

It looks like the extruder arm may be squeaking the filament against the extruder wheel so tight it is causing skipped steps and filament to wear off on the wheel.

I bit the bullet and got an aluminum extruder arm kit from amazon - CHPOWER CR-10 Extruder Upgraded Replacement, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JZ374W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kCaPCbF0AF0C3 - and have had good luck and no more skipped steps since changing.

u/pyr0ball · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

are you using an all-metal hotend?

Heat creep was really bad on my CR-10 when I switched to a microswiss all-metal. Initially I fixed it by reducing my retraction distance and increasing my retraction speed, but on longer prints it still ended up being too much of a problem and I switched to a new heatbrake that allowed the bowden tube to go all the way down to the nozzle and used Capricorn bowden tube to avoid deformation.

I'm getting much cleaner prints now and zero jamming. I think this heatbrake works with the original CR-10 heatsink

u/ButtPlugs4Kids · 2 pointsr/ender3

i ended up buying this glass bed. Overall its pretty good. Just use purple glue stick you can buy anywhere and youll be fine. albeit for me i need to call in NASA engineers to get mine off as well. :/

​

https://www.amazon.com/Glass-Print-Borosilicate-Printer-235x235x3-7mm/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3C42WXXA97BWB&keywords=ender+3+glass+bed&qid=1569282569&sprefix=ender+3+glas+bed%2Caps%2C219&sr=8-5

u/blockofdynamite · 2 pointsr/ender3

I just have the Creality glass bed from amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FSM8DK9/

It's been fantastic. Assuming your bed is properly leveled you don't even need to use adhesive, just make sure to clean it every once in awhile.

u/RaccoonJs · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Hi, I have the tempered glass one with ridges, they don't say it needs anything. I think If you use a glue-stick on it would stick forever. When I had it placed good it worked without anything, but something happend and it unleveled itself.
https://www.amazon.com/Creality-3D-Platform-Tempered-235x235x3mm/dp/B07FSM8DK9/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=ender+3+glass+bed&qid=1566487149&s=industrial&sr=1-4

The idea on using the glass to space it is great! I will try it!

Thankyou for respoding :)

u/relmicro · 2 pointsr/ender3

I went with the Crealitty Glass Bed Upgrade

There are mixed feelings on what to go with. A lot of people just use a mirror or similar, but to me it was worth $20 to know it wasn’t going to shatter on me at any point.

u/Tothas · 2 pointsr/ender3

Those couplers are trash and so is the PTFE tube they sent. They may work for a while but you'll want to swap them sooner rather than later. Here's a list of upgrades you'll probably want to do. You'll also want to look up a tutorial on how to upgrade your firmware so you can activate safety features (thermal runaway protection specifically). This also doesn't include a BLTouch or EZABL (auto bed levelers) as I have yet to make a choice personally.

Couplers and Tube:
SIQUK 3 Pieces Teflon Tube PTFE... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FPJHRTQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Metal Extruder: ( original plastic one will wear out or break)
Ender 3 Creality 3D Upgrade... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KSS8FRQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Bed Springs: (more than needed but oh well)
SIQUK 16 Pieces Heated Bed... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K9PBML5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Glass Bed: (goes on top of print bed which is usually warped, printing on an uneven surface not so bueno)
Creality Upgraded 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DS2LZF1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Raspberry Pi 3B+ for OctoPrint: (still need microsd card for it I believe)
CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 B+ (B... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BC6WH7V?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Stepper Motor Dampers: (silences the motors, no more sounding like dial up internet lol will need to print mounts from thingiverse)
Upgraded NEMA 17 Stepper Steel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DNT72SF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Heat Sinks For Stepper Motors: (once stepper motors have dampers and aren't attached to the metal frame, they can get a little hot)
40mmx40mmx10mm Black Radiator... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KWVGGGK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Hot end silicone sleeve: (may not need, mine came with one instead of the old insulation)
Creality Original 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HNXJ39T?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Extra Filament: (ender 3 only comes with a small sample "spool", this is just a brand I use and have had decent results with. The metallic silver hue shows off detail well)
3D Printer PLA Filament 1.75MM... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME7YUIU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/opiate82 · 2 pointsr/ToolBand

This is the one I went with, it's been pretty great so far except the one unfortunate incident with this particular print.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JKGNB6W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/SmellsLikeNostrils · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Aside from the aforementioned glass plate, there are several easy and useful mods. There's many threads going over this actually. Search around.

Get this and make some mods using the bearings. I made the Filament Guide along with a snap-in filament guide for closer to the spool. Both highly recommended.
Also using the bearings, I made a Spool Holder. Not crucial, but might save wear on extruder mechanism.

Get This or something like it and at least install the couplers instead of stock ones. I haven't replaced the tube itself yet. It requires fairly precise cutting but you can get PTFE tube cutting guides and cutters printed from thingiverse.

Get This and install it before glass bed or anything else, except for maybe a bed handle (which you can print from thingiverse. Handle isn't crucial but will help.

I haven't yet but will get:

  • a better extruder (all metal or a bmg clone)
  • a better hot-end (for printing of other stuff, like nylon if I want)

    Buy Spare Nozzles, including a hardened steel one if you want to do any amount of printing with wood-grain, metal or glow-in-the-dark material.
u/RumbleCrumbleYT · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I bought a heated glass plate also: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FSM8DK9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_i-RBCbRVFQ0FN

All I do is maybe 8 back and fourths over where it's going to print then rub it in with my hand.

u/bigdrock44 · 1 pointr/ender3

I struggled with adhesion for the first couple weeks of printing. Then I swapped my stock bed for a glass + PEI combo. Got the flatness of the glass + the adhesion of the PEI. Once the plate cools down a few degrees, the parts come right off. No need for sticky hairspray to get things to stick, and no need to put the bed in the freezer to get things to unstick. Best upgrade I’ve made on my ender 3 (~$30 total). Always wipe down with isopropyl alcohol in between prints for best adhesion.

Tip: I also recommend gently wet sanding the PEI. Helps with adhesion and creates a very nice matte finish on the first layer.

Glass Bed:
Nearly Natural 4855 35in.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JKGNB6W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

PEI:
Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GSJSDWR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/kennyog · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I got this one. It has good reviews and the price was right.

I think most on Amazon are probably similar.

Glass Print Bed Borosilicate Glass 3D Printer Glass Print Bed 235x235x3.7mm for Ender 3 DC-01 Glass Print Bed Borosilicate Glass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SDOEDbJSNRTST

u/EntropyWinsAgain · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Not OP, but here is the one I got a few weeks ago. Works fine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JKGNB6W/

u/TheRealSattious · 1 pointr/FixMyPrint

What are you using to level the bed? Also where are you leveling it to? (above the bed screws are the right spot) I use a piece of receipt paper folded in half to level it.

It may be worth using a bed level gcode to assist with the human error or placement problems)

Also the stock springs may be bad these should help with the frequent bed leveling.

A glass bed may also help with adhesion with these

u/zheke91 · 1 pointr/ender3

Hey I also new on this, got my printer a month ago, I was super exited as everyone here when receive their printer, I read a LOT while waiting for the printer, so I heard that the stock bed springs are crappy, so I ordered this ones FYSETC Bed springs, also ordered the Aluminium Extruder feeder, and read about the leveling, the paper sheath method, which I think you should already heard about, I did it at the first time the printer gave me a nearly perfect first print (demo dog) , after a few prints and on my third print I came home just to find a mess on my printer, so I did my research again, find out it was bed adhesion, and find out that the best way was glass bed + PEI sheet was the best option, while waiting to arrive I tried to clean the stock bed sheet with mineral spirits (did have rubbing alcohol) but it worsened the adhesion, so I used one adhesion sticker that comes with the overture filament, and again flawless adhesion, at least for the first 4 prints, then again the frustration, I tried some glue stick and worked but it leaves a mess on your print so I decided to try painters tape directly onto the aluminum bed (which lucky for me it is perfectly flat) this is the best adhesion I have tried, problem is also makes a mess with the down face of the print, Finally mi Gass-PEI arrived, (3 days ago), it has a great adhesion but is not perfect, also you have to raise the Z limit switch to compensate the 5~ mm of Glass-PEI, find out that it isn't perfectly flat it has a good adhesion and leaves a very smooth down face, but at some section it does't sticks well and leaves artifacts on the down face, I'm currently working to fix this.

Sorry for the long post, need to talk about my frustration and let you know you are not alone on this, once you manage to make a good print is very satisfying, I have a PETG filament waiting to be used but I don't think is a great idea to try it until a learn more about 3D printing and the Ender.

u/HavocBlack · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

This is where i got them from. Just make sure when you cute them that you are careful not to crush the tube. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FPJHRTQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/drkidkill · 1 pointr/CR10

I am confused by this issue, so many people seem to be using all kinds of different adhesives on the glass, I use none at all. Ender 3 with https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F16WPR5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 glass bed, and mp select mini v2 with a random piece of glass and a piece of borosilicate, I've never had a problem with sticking, bed temps of all sorts. I wonder if this could be a climate type issue, I live in Fort Collins Colorado, it is fairly dry here and not to hot or cold, what type of climate are you guys printing in?

u/kocsenc · 1 pointr/ender3

The stock bed is known to warp sometimes. Ever since I got the glass bed for mine it's been amazing. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F16WPR5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/mynameisalso · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

This is what I got after a few test prints I'm trying the skull again. It looks way better.

Check this out at Amazon.com
SIQUK 3 Pcs Teflon Tube PTFE Blue Tubing (1.5M) with 3 Pcs PC4-M6 Fittings and 3 Pcs PC4-M10 Fitting Connector for 3D Printer 1.75mm Filament https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FPJHRTQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_zrPrDb2ZQ4C9H

u/khanable_ · 1 pointr/ender3

https://www.amazon.com/SIQUK-Fittings-Straight-Pneumatic-Connector/dp/B07FPJHRTQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=ender+3+couokers&qid=1566384028&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spell

Basically these. The ones that came with my printer couldn’t hold the tubing which made the printer unusable. The yelllow bed springs are similar - the stock ones are flimsy and may require you to cut some plastic on your z end stop to make it work out. To me those are really the only 2 “day one” upgrades just due to them sometimes being necessary for the printer to even function.

u/VoltexRB · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Stock Hotend, This Bowden tube and the change I mentioned in my top level comment

u/Darkzed1 · 1 pointr/ender3

Here you go.

SIQUK 3 Pieces Teflon Tube PTFE... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FPJHRTQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Extruder Cat found on #Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2823786

u/Crimson_Fckr · 1 pointr/ender3

Here's the extruder I bought

And here's the bowden tubing and connectors

There's a lot of similar items on Amazon that will work; I just personally went after the popular ones with the highest reviews

Also, if you get the tubing, don't forget to get cutters if you don't have any already

u/alphatangolima · 1 pointr/ender3

Thanks for the detailed reply.

​

I need to read more to understand the z switch and z screws you are referring to. I have no idea what those are. I assembled by watching some channel on youtube do it. It was like a tales from the crypt vibe channel.

​

As much as it sucks, I probably need to completely disassemble it and start over. There has to be something done incorrectly for it to be this difficult. I am definitely going to get one of those gauges before I get back into. I returned the springs today and ordered different springs on amazon. When they get here, I might sit down one night and try again.

​

As for the bed, the glass one I got was scratched to hell from those stupid springs. I didn't know I had to raise or lower whatever switch you were talking about. Like I said earlier, I already ordered a SD card reader so that will be a definite mod. As for the octopi, is there a list somewhere on this subreddit of everything you need to purchase before starting? I have a raspberry pi at the house. I originally bought it to build a retropie but I haven't gotten around to it yet. I could use it for the printer if needed. I really like the idea of remote printing, having a webcam to see the print live, and putting a part on there that stops the print if there is a filament issue.

​

I have to go into the city tomorrow so I was thinking of stopping by ikea and getting some Lack Tables for the eventual enclosure but now I don't know if I am even going to keep the Ender 3. I am debating on returning it and moving up a tier. I really want to get started on this but it seems like I am never going to be able to print any of this awesome stuff. So many awesome files on thingiverse and I can't use any of them.....

​

Here are the parts I have purchased so far....

​

SD Card Extension

​

Glass Bed

​

Springs that I bought that would not lower bed enough

​

Most Recent Springs I am going to try

​

Metal Extruder Upgrade

​

Filament Black and Red

u/raleel · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Directly. Creality 3D Printer Platform Heated Bed Build Surface Tempered Glass Plate for Ender 3/Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer 235x235x3mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FSM8DK9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_s9RvDbM16RZ7Y is the one I got. It has a coating on it. I have been extremely happy, though it took me another 15 minutes to relieved since it’s thicker and you gotta reset everything.

Only real change is you should wait for it to cool before pulling stuff off, but once it cools, it doesn’t stick. Like... at all. It’s quite nice. Also, it doesn’t warp, which I only found out after, because I was only after a new bed and figured I’d upgrade. Then I read about it ;)

u/seanDmailman · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Creality 3D Printer Platform Heated Bed Build Surface Tempered Glass Plate for Ender 3/Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer 235x235x3mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FSM8DK9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SxkoDb69RT69H.

If you print PLA, you're good to go. Any other you might need glue stick, (it ain't that bad).

u/NameTaken24 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Using this bed


Creality 3D Printer Platform Heated Bed Build Surface Tempered Glass Plate for Ender 3/Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer 235x235x3mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FSM8DK9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4BwJDb8ZYB5F2

u/ToxicTeaParty · 1 pointr/ender3

I just ordered one today. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FSM8DK9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ApDCCb7WCN032
I want to say it has a textured surface where you don't have to use hairspray and the like.

u/WrexShepard · 1 pointr/ender3

Here's the aluminum extruder assembly. The plastic one that comes on the printer WILL break. It's just a matter of time. They crack from stress after a while and even before that they creep and you'll start getting missed extrusion.

Here's the stiffer bed springs. You won't have to compress these as much to get a good stiffness.

Another really popular upgrade is this glass build plate. It has a special coating that makes it so parts stick without adhesive, and it leaves a really smooth surface on your prints. Parts stick really well then when it cools down they self-release.

The 3 upgrades I linked are extremely popular upgrades. You can get by without the glass bed, it's just an option because the stock bed will wear out eventually.

u/INTPx · 1 pointr/ender3

Printed in two parts. You can see the seam right above where I redacted my PII. Printed in Overture PETG. I used CHEP's petg profile in Cura but had to turn the flow rate down on the printer to 65% because the infill was falling apart. took about 18 hours total I think. printed on the this glass bed because my build plate has a huge bulge in the center. 205C/50C. Going to CA glue and clamp it together and prime and paint it to look like aged/patinaed copper.

This is only about my fourth print and my first with PETG. I can't believe the quality and surface finish I can get out of this little workhorse

u/harvestgobs · 1 pointr/ender3

Yeah, that's kinda what I was worried about. This is what I purchased. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FSM8DK9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was kinda hoping to be able to put the sticky build sheet on the back side, and leave the coated side against the heated plate. The reviews seem to suggest that the coating wears away very quickly. But I'm afraid that the coating will mess with the adhesion of the polycarb build sheet.

Ideally, it would be great if I could just put the polycarb sheet on the back, and just flip it back and forth and use both surfaces. Just don't know how safe it would be having either surface directly against the build plate.

u/ReallyGene · 1 pointr/3Dprinting
u/Vick_Vinegar125 · 1 pointr/Nerf

I was gonna start with my own variation on a sledgefire shell and also do tests with this https://www.amazon.com/Smooth-XTC-3D-Performance-Print-Coating/dp/B00PFXK4JY/ to see if it could produce better results than just sanding alone.

u/Dirsh5 · 1 pointr/PrintedMinis

I've had good results with the standard .4 nozzle. As long as it prints clean, I've had more success putting effort into post-processing. This stuff does wonders for painting. I've printed minis on .5 and .6 nozzles with similar results in quality.

u/Wilhelm_III · 1 pointr/minipainting

It can be, though that looks rougher than any of mine. But there's a product called XTC-3D that automatically smooths the striations of 3d-printed objects by filling them in.

u/patcheudor · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

On a modern engine it would run rich due to the O2 sensors in the CAT telling the engine to pump more fuel and if terribly bad, throw faults when the CAT O2 sensors get too far outside of tolerance. Also any leaks could be entirely mitigated by coating the thing in XTC-3D:

https://www.amazon.com/XTC-3D-High-Performance-Print-Coating/dp/B00PFXK4JY

u/eskamobob1 · 1 pointr/Cubers

https://www.amazon.com/Smooth-XTC-3D-Performance-Print-Coating/dp/B00PFXK4JY

Its a self leveling resin used in certain forms of post processing.

u/Garycsims · 1 pointr/fightsticks

Smooth-On XTC-3D High Performance 3D Print Coating - 24oz. Unit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PFXK4JY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ztcRBbQYAWSST

u/da_brodiefish · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

You can use xtc-3d from smooth on to get a super nice smooth finish, that's what I did here

u/picmandan · 1 pointr/diyaudio

Are you familiar with this stuff for coating?

u/Sprinket · 1 pointr/fo4

That looks pretty sick. Just FYI though, you can get rid of those print lines with something like this: 3d print goo

u/mangogello · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

You should try XTC! Its fantastic at filling on 3d prints, 30 minute cure time. Only takes 1 careful coat for fine prints, or 2-3 regular coats for less detailed prints. You can sand it smooth with 400 grit

https://www.amazon.com/XTC-3D-High-Performance-Print-Coating/dp/B00PFXK4JY

u/Dont_Think_So · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Forgot about this for smoothing non-ABS prints: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PFXK4JY/

u/gene_m · 1 pointr/MonsterHunter

I'm not fantastic at 3d printing yet, but I highly recommend this. It's helped to get rid of the "layers" in a print without losing too much detail. You can get a TON out of a single bottle, so it's worth the price. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PFXK4JY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/therocketryan · 1 pointr/3Dprinting
u/AchazianThug · 1 pointr/3Dprinting
u/tmprof · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

These have sharp edges that will damage your bed. Use this one instead:
https://www.amazon.com/ToyBuilder-Labs-Print-Removal-Tool/dp/B00VB1U886

u/G4mer260 · 1 pointr/3dprinter

Look at something like this :https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VB1U886?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I used to just wreck prints trying to get it off with the stock scraper they send with the printer. It’s a thinner edge so it really seems to pop it off the bed a lot easier. I got that second one I linked a few posts back and I don’t use one of the tools but the longer one I’ll use after using the first tool on big prints outside of that this one really seems to get under prints with out to much effort.

Another solution that I have heard good results with but I not personally use is this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2JGTWJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xQdWAb79FZS82
It’s on my list to try but my current printer doesn’t really need anything to help with binding or release from the bed. Now I did pick up a bed surface called geckotek : www.geckotek.co it’s supposed to be a bed pad like on the printer already but is supposed to just release prints after the bed cools down. Might run around $20 so it’s not to bad of a loss not sure when I’ll get around to installing it but could be better than the current surface it has now.


For a camera/smart switch look into a octopi setup. It uses a raspberry pi but it acts as a print controller. From what I heard is you can start/stop prints as well as upload prints you sliced and just run it from there. But you are supposed to be able to remote view it with a camera as well. I just never got around to setting one up but I do have everything if I ever need it. I normally run my long prints on the days I know I’m home but I normally don’t have to many issues though I have failures in the middle of the night but with me being close by I can catch it before any chance of damage. I do have my printer on a ups but I think it’s on the end of its life span so I will most likely need to replace it or the batteries later this year.

u/RandExt · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I just slide this along the edge and it pops up. I don't know why a razor wouldn't work the same, unless you're cutting into the PEI. The tool has blunt edges, but anything rigid and thin should work the same. I only print in PLA, though, so maybe it's different with other materials.

u/PaulJP · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

This is what I'm using and it's been fine for the past 6 months; glossy finish. I think what Prusa includes is closer to 7 mil though.

I'm sure there are some differences in heat transfer properties or something with regards to using a thinner sheet; but the only things I've noticed are that the screen printing can distort the surface slightly (visible dimple, but can't feel it) and I need to be more careful with my removal tools so I don't accidentally scratch through it and into the heat bed. I had been using a super sharp putty knife, but switched to this recently (basically a thin metal kitchen spatula, with rounded corners).

u/insaneferret · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

you're doing something wrong, i've owned a FFCP for years and only once damaged the bed.

The key is not to try to get under the bed, but to apply a horizontal pressure with a wedge onto the print right where it touches the bed. I use this print removal tool:

https://www.amazon.com/ToyBuilder-Labs-Print-Removal-Tool/dp/B00VB1U886/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1494530501&sr=8-3

u/mjen358 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

What usually causes this?


I've had my printer long enough to use up my first roll of filament and besides a mess up calibrating it (dug a little into the bed on one side), it's pretty clean and flat still. I use This tool to remove my prints.


Or is replacing your bed a common thing? I'm still getting used to everything.

u/toybuilder · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I use these when leveling a heated bed so that it's trammed when hot and stable. Once the bed is trammed, I dial the screws down consistently to set the final elevation.

Disclaimer: we're the seller.

u/please_respect_hats · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Sorry I can't answer all of your questions, but here's a few suggestions. Number one, a better part cooling fan. Just buy a cheap blower fan like this one, and print a radial cooling fan like this one. This should help a bit with your bottom screw holes being messy. For bigger prints this is a necessity. When it comes to getting prints off of the beds, I use a glass bed with a gluestick for adherence, and to remove prints I use this thing. Incredibly, incredibly useful. It's thin enough to get under prints without denting them, and the long design lets you move it underneath prints to free the whole this. The end is also sharp enough to scrape glue off of the printbed. Works a lot better than the scraper included with the printer.

u/retsotrembla · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I use a thin metal spatula for removing prints from the bed. It often tears the masking tape, but that's OK - That encourages me to put down fresh tape, and fresh tape makes for better prints.

u/RyanAcro · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I use this on my PEI sheet and it seems to work pretty well:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VB1U886/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I usually pull things off when the bed is 40-50C.

u/nasteeenate · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Link to the good bits. It's not done. I'm just not sober enough to handle a heat gun. Used a hair dryer and a "Blade" to see her face.

u/Pyperman · 1 pointr/AnycubicPhoton

I had something similar, but it wasn't beefy enough to pry the prints off the buildplate..

https://www.amazon.com/Foreasy-Printer-Removal-Enhanced-Version/dp/B01A81FXMK/

It totally flexed and slipped and cut my finger!

​

Re: plastic scraper that comes with the Photon: Arg- I guess I misunderstood, I thought that was for the buildplate. It's for failed prints in the vat! That makes much more sense.. I tried to use it on my first few prints and it totally failed

u/hartk1213 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Yes I would say the heated bed is a necessity if you want to print ABS the stock bed only reaches 45-50c and takes along time to heatup , the bed I bought is from folgertech it's the 12v silicone heated bed 300x300 and yes you could do a separate PSU as well I just didn't need to and the mosfet I bought is the trigorilla mosfet on Amazon, I would recommend that mosfet over any other as I bought a DCDC SSR and it didn't work, i then bought a BIQU mosfet on Amazon and it started smoking so I returned it but the trigorilla mosfet has had no issues so far, to add to my heated im going to add some cork to insulate it to hold the heat better.. hope this helps

u/Rsteel517 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HCVJ3K2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_PI.Cyb7TB37GQ

This is the board I'm looking doing. I like it because of the heat sink.

I know there is that is half the price, but the heat sink I think is better.

u/BobbyTendinitis · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I went with this Mosfet for my Maker Select and am very pleased with it:

ANYCUBIC 3D Printer Heating Controller MKS MOSFET for Heatbed Extruder MOS Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HCVJ3K2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_5g3yWwXefECUF

It used to be branded TriGorilla. The thing is a beast.

u/kiltedvaper · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

That's a very good point. I'm confident in my soldering skills, I neglected that others may not be. I have seen a few FET's out in the wild. I'm not sure if they are all created equally.

I'm aware of the reprap one:
http://www.reprap.me/power-expander.html
and the Amazon Trigorilla one:
https://www.amazon.com/TriGorilla-Printer-Heating-Controller-Extruder/dp/B01HCVJ3K2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482884825&sr=8-1&keywords=3d+printer+mosfet

Can anyone chime in on the best Mosfet solution for those that don't have the skills or want to possibly void their warranty?

u/devsfan1830 · 1 pointr/prusa3d

Yeah, a second external mosfet. One of these: https://www.amazon.com/TriGorilla-Printer-Heating-Controller-Extruder/dp/B01HCVJ3K2/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1526154992&sr=8-19&keywords=mosfet The MK2/S has had a history of having arching and melting in the plug they use to hook the heat bed to the RAMBO. That's why the MK3 uses screw terminals so its less necessary. They're much safer and more robust. The PSU has a spare empty 12V +/- terminal. So I desoldered the heatbed end. Ran those leads to the on/off signal input of the external mosfet. The RAMBO bed output now becomes a lower amperage enable/disable signal. Then I ran new power leads from the PSU to the power in on the mosfet then power out to the bed, soldering those new leads onto the bed. Printed a small enclosure and use some self adhesive velcro to stick it to my rambo case. Aint pretty, but the risk of a meltdown is greatly reduced. Probably overkill but better safe than sorry.

u/GoodBadBot · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

So if anyone ever ends up in a situation like mine, I'd like to leave a note here. I purchased an aftermarket mosfet board (as long as it supports 5v switching you'll be fine). I soldered into the bypass pad on the main board, ran this to my + input on the mosfet and ran a jumper wire to the - from the power supply. Then I wired up my power supply and the bed, and the bed is heating properly. I bought a super beefy mosfet with a heatsink which is probably overkill, but it's working, so I can't complain.

Now I just have to figure out how to mount this thing in the box...

u/SnowwolfYT · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

also look into a the mosfet upgrade. the a8 is notorious for burning the connectors. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HCVJ3K2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the one i ordered for mine

u/Hunterhusker · 1 pointr/AnetA8

I have a set of 7 picked out on amazon and my free trial expires in 3 days I'm gonna order them soon, just waiting on a link to something else I am supposed to order for my dad.

Here are the ones that I have chosen what do you think of them? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPRCMJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5IjoDb99E75FN

u/chevyfried · 1 pointr/wanhaoi3

Thanks for the info. Sadly yes [I bought the correct ones](http://www.3D.com/ Printer Solid Polymer LM8UU Bearing 8mm shaft - Igus Drylin RJ4JP-01-08 for Anet A8 Prusa i3 3D Printer RepRap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPRCMJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OPhWBbA71R3DG)

Thanks for the info on the hotend. I bought a gcr model and had clogging issues.

u/SitDownCreepa · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I am also interested in changing the bearings on the y axis and the x axis. Are these good bearings to make the printer quieter and maybe more stable?

https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Solid-Polymer-LM8UU-Bearing/dp/B06XPRCMJS/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

u/Klathmon · 1 pointr/prusa3d

these are the bushings that most people talk about for this printer. Igus doesn't make sleeved bushings that can fit as a drop-in replacement for the LM8UU bearings. IIRC last time I did the research, I found they do sell sleeved bushings that will fit in the Prusa (as in they have the correct outer diameter and length), but not with the correct inner diameter needed for the stock smooth rods. So if you went that route you'd need to not only get new bushings across the board, but you'd also need new rods everywhere too, and that pushed the cost up to about $75 when I last looked.

Honestly for the price I'm not really upset that I tried them, but I absolutely learned to just stick with stock unless it's giving me major issues.

Getting the y axis to move smoothly was a challenge, as the stock u-bolts would squeeze it vertically and leave wiggle room horizontally, which would allow the plate to cock sideways a bit and bind. With some finagling I was able to get it working, but there was a lot more resistance than I would have liked, it was consistent resistance across the whole range of movement, but it was still more than I wanted. The X axis I never got them fully working, as ANY force parallel to the smooth rods (but slightly offset in one direction) would cause binding by cocking the x carriage one way or another.



But don't let me be all doom and gloom, if someone is able to get them working and can talk about their experience, I'd love to hear! And I'm sure there are people out there who value the silence they provide over some unreliability or increased maintenance/tuning required, but I was overall unhappy with them and I won't try it again.

u/CYBERBLADE6669 · 1 pointr/FixMyPrint

remember to use your og blocks can be removed with c-clip pliers $9.94 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XPRCMJS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 6,00https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GLQMMLJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/AnotherStupidName · 1 pointr/prusa3d

I bought some of these.
I haven't installed them yet, though.
I plan to do that when I do my Mk2.5 upgrade.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XPRCMJS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/misterchief117 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

The linear bearings that come with the Maker Select V2 are crappy ones which made grinding sounds every so often. I wonder if the same on the Select Plus.

I ended up swapping the stock ones for these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XPRCMJS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

No more grinding sound.

If it is the same issue on yours, you may want to swap out the bearings.

u/bigbaumer · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Something like this?

u/lastrogu3 · 1 pointr/ender5

Might help clarify, I'm talking about adding something similar to these in line from the PSU to the power connector for the heat bed on the main board:

https://smile.amazon.com/Printer-Module-SIMPZIA-General-Current/dp/B06XY5HBFX

EDIT: I realized by watching the TH3D video I edited into the original post, that the above MOSFET is for a 12v PSU, you should research if a 12v MOSFET is needed instead. TH3D mentioned in the video that they do carry them.

u/Gabgra11 · 1 pointr/AnetA8

On my machine, I have added the following upgrades:

u/gettothechoppaaaaaa · 1 pointr/CR10

Sorry I actually replaced the entire drive feed piece, not just the spring.

I got this one but also this other one for our other cr10 because I don't like the stock driver gear.


This was the last resort option for me after I've checked EVERYTHING. Leveling, clean nozzle, different temp/flowrates, different filaments, slower speeds, different slicers, etc. I even swapped consoles and motor steppers with other working cr10s to get down to the issue.

I decided to print vase mode and check the density of the print through a light. For a portion of it I held the spring out so that the gears will grip the filament better. During that portion the print was nice and solid and the other parts it was very see through and some layer separation. That was the final call that got me the new drive gear.

u/Bob_Bushman · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Ok seems it was $20.

Someone recommended this https://www.amazon.com/HICTOP-Upgraded-Replacement-Aluminum-Extruder/dp/B0761PGLZ4 in a reddit comment.

Since I was at that moment testing a calibration cube at 135% flow rate and still seeing random under extrusion I figured. Why not?

just barely mounted it last night so haven't done much printing.
Apart from a cube and a cable catcher that failed.
But the layer lines are excellent compared to before.

u/Mrisaacrubio · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I think it might be an extruder problem because it only affects about 5 percent of the layers, probably more likely that the extruder slips and then recatches rather than the nozzle clogging and unclogging itself right? and if so would this be a good idea to fix it?

u/Rustic320 · 1 pointr/ender3

Here you just need one of these. Those plastic extruders feeds will eventually development a groove from the filament dragging and will cause what you are talking about. This is the same one I bought no problems since.

HICTOP Upgraded Replacement Aluminum MK8 Extruder Drive Feed for Creality 3D Printer Ender 3/3Pro CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10 S4, and CR-10 S5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0761PGLZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IFPNDb5XJEYWF

u/affluentjones · 1 pointr/FixMyPrint

This might work, but it's a different style. Amazon has these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0761PGLZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Zg4LDbB1BRRG0 which are the same style, but aluminum.

u/trustmeiwouldntlie2u · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I got this one and it's working great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0761PGLZ4

u/squat251 · 1 pointr/ender3

That's a real bummer :( it sounds like it needs a shim, or to be returned and replaced. I bought this one and other than needing an additional m3 screw to hold the spring in place (I think I just lost the other one during the install) it's worked flawlessly. I also picked up a set of stainless extruder gears. Together these parts are performing flawlessly. not a great example, but it was dark when I took the picture.

u/greenasaurus · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Ah thanks. Have you tried the aluminum extruder drive feeder mod ?

u/Hurly26 · 1 pointr/CR10
u/Need4Coffee · 1 pointr/ender5

I found this one after doing a search for an hour tonight on different websites: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0761PGLZ4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A2UHE58S2974CT&psc=1

u/Xol_G · 1 pointr/FixMyPrint

UPDATE

After cleaning out my bowden tube between the tube itself and the nozzle, and removing the gunked up crud as well as trimming the end of the bowden tube where some filament was partially blocking, I put everything back together as it should be and set another test print for last night. I used the same model I had printed somewhat successfully but changed the following:

.2 less on wall thickness

10% less on density

10 added to Print speed

40 added to Travel speed

10% less on support density

And unfortunately, alittle more than halfway through the print this happened:

https://imgur.com/VbJXFJI

https://imgur.com/LrwHxlB

https://imgur.com/fcVClfZ

​

This morning I pulled apart the bowden tube and nozzle again to check for that problem from before but this time everything was fairly clear, no gunk in between tube and nozzle. At this point, I think it may be the extruder or possibly even something to do with the feeding of the filament spool itself since it seems to be a problem occuring around the same height everytime. I ordered an upgraded extruder [aluminum body] and better bowden tube this morning. Has anyone else noticed this kind of problem occurring consistently around the same height?

​

​

​

u/drewbagel423 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Yeah I've already upgrade to an all aluminum extruder.

Out of curiosity, which one are you using?

u/clintkev251 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

This guy: here super cheap and helps the printer grab onto the filament a little bit more. I noticed that mine would sometimes slip during retractions. I'd also make sure you are using the little clips that hold the ptfe tight into the coupler. Excess play here can also cause issues

u/ArchmageMC · 1 pointr/CR10
  1. Motor stopper dampeners. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7FRLNX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These will greatly reduce sound on your machine.
  2. X and Y motor supports Y = https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2845950 X = https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2793110 with dampeners. This'll help alleviate belt tension on the motor/belts and quiet the pritner even more. You'll need some M3x40mm screws for this.
  3. Flash the firmware with Marlin and enable the heat runaway options. This will stop the printer from burning down your house if a critical error occurs. https://www.printedsolid.com/blogs/news/installing-marlin-1-1-9-on-your-cr-10s-with-mesh-bed-leveling-thermal-protection-better-menu-layout-and-finally-power-resume
  4. Add a Mirror tile to your bed. Most CR10s beds bow in the middle. Mirrors are totally flat, so just make a mirror your new print bed/print bed base.
  5. Print the Petsfang upgrade https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759439 and get a Noctua 40mm fan. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JK9GX6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and a 50mm blower fan https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WMHNG5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You can choose if you want the 10 or 20mm noctua fans. Petsfang page says all the screws you'll need.
  6. Print some support stuff and get some rods to make supports. This'll reduce your print height by 20mm, but it'll greatly stabilize your printer when you do large prints, alleivating weird artifacting when the print gets higher up. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2805226
  7. Get a better Boaing tube. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079P92HN9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (I'm not sure if this is the best out there.)
  8. A steel wear resistant nozzle if you wanna print things other than PLA/TEPG.
  9. A PEI plate to make it much easier to get prints off. Preferably a flexible one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RDQF7KQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  10. A spool mount https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2440814 which will lets you use bigger spools all while greatly reducing the amount of strain on the extruder and the noise that the filliment makes when it turns.
  11. Control box cooling fan and base. I've yet to install this one myself as I'm not sure how to wire up the fans, but this'll greatly reduce fan noise and keep the control box super cool. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2729888 It'll also remove the problem where if the print goes over 300mm in height where the filiment can sometimes snap due to strain.
  12. A BLTouch to make bed leveling automatic more or less. I've yet to install this myself. https://www.amazon.com/ANTCLABS-BLTouch-Leveling-Premium-Extension/dp/B076PQG1FF/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=bltouch&qid=1562832293&s=industrial&sr=1-3

    ​

    Anyone got any others?
u/SnowmanProphet · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I don't have experience with that printer personally. However, from what I've read it seems like a decent machine. For about $100 less you can get an Ender 3, which is a good printer for the price and has a large community behind it. You could invest the difference purchasing upgrades (BLTouch sensor, magnetic build surface, etc...) and it would outweigh the i3 Mega significantly. If you spend a little more, you can get the CR-10 and increase your build volume.

I haven't owned an Anycubic before, so I have a bias towards Crealty's products. Alternatively, Powerspec is another brand that has similar printers. If you live near a Microcenter, it's likely that they'll have that brand on display. The one near me renovated an entire section of the store to dedicate it to 3D Printing.

u/KrevanSerKay · 1 pointr/ender3

Oh man, I've been nervously holding off on buying the skr mini e3 + BLT for a couple months now. Going to go order them now :D

(side note: ANTCLABS is the genuine BLT, right? Was 1m extension long enough for you?)

u/Tyrantt_47 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Thanks for the advice. I was considering this one earlier, but wasn't sure how it would do with that too left screw. I'll give this one a try.

> apparently depending on where you get it can affect which mounts can hold it properly

I didn't realize that. I figured they were all the same with different resellers. [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076PQG1FF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9iKSDbGB674CP]. The comments say it's v3, but the back of the BLtouch says v2 smart

u/LockoutNex · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I bought a BLTouch a few weeks ago a love the dam little thing. I got this one on Amazon that came with extension cables from 1-2 meters: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076PQG1FF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The connection for the cable ends are "Dupont" like others have said before. You can but them for cheap on Amazon, if you don't like those type strip the wire and I say use Pitch JST-SM connectors.

I was going to get the ezabl kit but after watching a lot of videos are reading things people said BLTocuh is best for glass best because the ezabl can get bad reader from glass.


Edit: Oh and while installing the BLTouch a lot of guides say strip pin 29 wire from the LCD cable so the BLTouch can use it, but you dont want to do that buy this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/CR-10-Ender-3-Pin-27-Board-for-BLTouch-or-filament-sensor-BL-Touch-Creality/302960671554?hash=item4689dcfb42:g:GOIAAOSw~JFcM50B:rk:1:pf:0

u/RedOctobyr · 1 pointr/ender3

That kit includes the genuine BLTouch, which is good. I got mine for $38 on Amazon, printed my own mouting bracket, and spliced into a wire to wire it in.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076PQG1FF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If budget is a concern, and you're up for a little more DIY, you could go that route. Or buy just a cheap Pin 27 board, and print the mount for the probe.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Creality-Ender3-CR-10-Pin-27-Board-for-BLTouch-or-Filament-Sensor-BLTouch-2PCSA/254398567391?hash=item3b3b5613df:g:kHsAAOSwzeddsRVe

I started with a Trianglelab 3D Touch. It was OK for a few days, then began failing, so I changed to the genuine version, which has worked better for me.

u/xMcSquidx · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Kapton tape works for ABS @110c, PLA@50-60c, and PETG at 80c. Cooling the bed releases the part mostly.

Edit: Hardest part of Kapton is getting it on to the glass smoothly. Use the Windex and credit card method. I'm sure there are videos out there. Everyone used to use Kapton. Not sure why others have forgotten it.

Get these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07779TP4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3BvjDb847519E

u/Komm · 1 pointr/PrintedMinis

Print is looking good, but you should pick up some socks for your hot end.

u/kodiak931156 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting
  1. heater puts out X jules per second of heat

    The problem is that when pushing a lot of plastic it drains 2 X jules per second of heat. So even going at full force the heater can't keep up and the hot end will start to cool.

    So if say you're filament cant work below 180 setting the hot end at 230 instead of say 190 guves it more room to drop more in temp b4 it gets to cold to function



  2. thermal sock. This thing https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-E3D-Socks-Pack-V6-SOCK-PRO-3PACK/dp/B07779TP4S

    when you're heater is trying desperately to keep the hot end above 180. These things help stop half the heat being made from being lost to the air. More of it goes into the filament. Which means less chance of hitting that dreaded 180

  3. jerk control stops the printer from when it's 150mm/s in one direction to instantly going 150MM/s in the other. It does this by a fraction of a second before the turn kicking it down in speed the making the turn and kicking it back up.

    Acceleration control handles the same thing but with regards to speed changes instead of direction changes

    Without some control at these speeds you will find odd artifacts like what you've described(curling and all) and eventually will likely damage your x or y axis belt
u/flyingcloud · 1 pointr/prusa3d

+1 for the silicone sock! I am now running those and they are great! Here is what I ordered https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07779TP4S I think you will be okay to heat up your hotend, the thermistor wires are definitely not going anywhere.

u/phinneypat · 1 pointr/prusa3d

Not from Prusa, but here are some other things I use over and over and over and am glad I bought. These are not affiliate links and you can probably find some of these items cheaper elsewhere:

Thin craft spatulas for removing prints: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075SLTY8B (some say "never scrape using a metal tool" but these are very thin and flexible and really help with some prints)

Cleaning filament: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVIYNFW

Silicone socks: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07779TP4S

Good quality hex drivers https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O5014 these will make assembly and maintenance MUCH easier than the included tools. Especially the smallest one that fits the set screw in the Bondtech extruder gear really well, much better than the "decent" hex keys I already had in my toolkit

u/flatcurve · 1 pointr/CR10

Check that the screw that holds the spring arm on your extruder hasn't backed out. The first time I encountered this problem my prints looked exactly like yours and it took me a couple days to figure it out. It will keep happening too, unless you change out the extruder. It's because you can't have that screw too tight or the arm won't apply pressure. So because it's a little loose, it will slowly work out over time, and there's not very many threads engaged in that hole, so the screw can wobble around.

The cheapest fix would be to install an all-metal replacement for around $13. If you look closely at the link I posted, you'll see that the spring arm has an insert for the screw that will allow you to tighten the screw all the way down but still allows the arm to rotate. I haven't had to re-tighten that screw since I installed it. It works great. Also, if you take a 5/32" drill bit and drill out the hole on the arm itself, you can insert a short piece of teflon tubing into it that will protect the filament from the leadscrew. You can just use a regular wood bit and hand drill. Aluminum drills super easy.

u/OC_Rookie · 1 pointr/ender3

Mods:

Ended 3 official 1.1.5 from here. All mainboard settings are stock.

Aluminum extruded from here.

Capricorn tubing from here.

Cura 4.1 on Linux

Filament at 210 on hotend, 60 on bed.

u/iquitee · 1 pointr/CR10

Do you have this upgrade?

CHPOWER CR-10 Extruder Upgraded Replacement, Aluminum MK8 Drive Feed 3D Printer Extruders for Creality Ender 3, CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10 S4, CR-10 S5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JZ374W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HH5HDbJQ21BKB

That fixed my problem, tensioner stays very tight now

u/nmbrguy · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

https://www.amazon.com/CHPOWER-Extruder-Upgraded-Replacement-Extruders/dp/B079JZ374W

I’m not logged in on mobile, 95% sure this is it. The only weird thing you need to do: break the lock tite seal on the knurled gear on the stepper [to get it off]. Otherwise you need to buy a special replacement bearing for the one that comes stock in the kit(dunno which one).

u/HeatherAthebyne · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079JZ374W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Can't speak to whether others have better/worse build quality, but this one's worked for me. I did keep the original screws/metal parts instead of what came with the new one.

u/mofish1 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Ah my bad, wrong thread, this one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079JZ374W

u/ballards_anus_blood · 1 pointr/CR10

This is the one that I got: Title of link (optional) I got a metal extruder housing as well but I honestly don't think it's necessary, just nifty.

u/NachoFoot · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

There is an all metal extruder. Here's an Amazon link to a popular one that I was thinking of getting before I figured out my problem.

u/ThatsMeNotYou · 1 pointr/3dprintingdms

Hey Omnioji,

I am a big fan of yours, would love to help, but some more info would be needed.

I know you say FDG profile, but some things in those profiles are also kinda fluid and need to be adjusted by you. So in particular, what is your print temperature? What are your retraction settings?

One simple fix which would likely give you some improvement would be to upgrade your bowden tube to a smoother PTFE Tube which causes less friction on the filament and therefor reduces stringing.

u/Snochew · 1 pointr/ender3

All 3 as they are really cheap.

Bowden Tube

Aluminum Extruder

Bed springs

u/FogeyDotage · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I bought some of this bowden tubing : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079P92HN9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for my Wanhao Duplicator clone. I think it makes a difference. (Definitely touches hot end and nozzle in this printer)

u/TorxPhillips · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Here's my favorites!

Filament standoff arm to keep it from pulling straight down

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2917932

​

And Complimentary filament guide:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2894097

​

Ribbon Cable Clips:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2960375

​

I added an SD card ribbon because the micro SD location and size Sucks!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D9JIUU0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Fan cover to get rid of upwards draft, and keep little bits of filament out of the fan:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2935204

​

Immediately replace that crappy Plastic extruder with any metal one off amazon.

​

Capricorn Bowden Tube:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079P92HN9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Powder Coated PEI Magnetic Build sheet! (Priceless!)

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/trianglelab-235-X-235-ender-3-Double-sided-Textured-PEI-Spring-Steel-Sheet-Powder-Coated-PEI/33008374363.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.8.221538feJjwDlN&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_7_10065_10130_10068_10890_10547_319_10546_317_10548_10545_10696_453_10084_454_10083_10618_10307_537_536_10059_10884_10887_321_322_10103,searchweb201603_52,ppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=04b2bf81-a9de-45c6-9ea4-23cf0e249943-1&algo_pvid=04b2bf81-a9de-45c6-9ea4-23cf0e249943&transAbTest=ae803_3

​

Change your fans over to Noctua fans, and the printer becomes nearly silent. (amazon)

​

I got an EZABL bed leveling kit. Doing BL Touch soon, but The EZABL has pre-configured firmware, which made life easy!

Raspberry pi zero W or 3B+ with octoprint is a must!

​

These got me into sexy print land pretty quick!

u/2vulgar · 1 pointr/ender3

List of mods on my Ender 3 Pro:

  1. Glass bed

  2. Capricorn PTFE tubing

  3. Creality all metal extruder

  4. Upgraded bed springs

  5. Feet Noise Dampers

  6. Filament Guide

    I use Cura for my slicer, and use the default setting there for the Ender 3.
u/swar0061 · 1 pointr/ender5

Meanwell power supply:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013ETVO12

Ferrules and crimper:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LCF39W9

Stepper smoothers (3-pack):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0727QT316

Capricorn PTFE tubing:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079P92HN9

Performance 3-D MK8 Apollo 0.4mm extruder nozzle:

https://www.p3-d.com/collections/duraplat-3d-extruder-nozzles

Glass bed (appears to be produced by creality), ebay seller usbkits :

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Creality-3D-Ender3-Ultrabase-Heat-Bed-Glass-Plate-235x235mm-for-3D-Printer-X6W6/143049426638

Aluminum drive feed, ebay seller creality-3d-direct :

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Upgrade-Aluminum-Extruder-Drive-Feed-Frame-For-Creality-Ender-3-3D-Printer/223095519332

***the tube fitting in this kit did not work well, so I used the fitting from the stock creality assembly and it worked fine.

​

THD Firmware:

https://www.th3dstudio.com/knowledgebase/th3d-unified-firmware-package/

u/ThatOnePerson · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

That's possible if you're overconstraining the bed and warping it yourself. That's why people recommend 3 point leveling nowadays.

Instead of the bed, look to see if the y-carraige is bent. That's the thing under the bed that the bed rides on. https://www.amazon.com/Gulfcoast-Robotics-Carriage-Duplicatior-Printers/dp/B07B251KBS you can get replacments of those. And if that's bent, you'll run into issues too.

u/DaoDeer · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

If all goes wrong or you want to upgrade your carriage this one comes pre-drilled for 4 point and 3 point

u/ponzLL · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Thanks! I got my carriage plate from Amazon, this one specifically: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B251KBS

The buildtak that came on it was awesome for about 40 days or so of print time. No issues at all, everything stuck real nice but popped off easily with a woodworking chisel. Eventually it started to wear smooth, and the plate it's attached to started to warp pretty bad in the middle. That's when I switched to glass + gluestick. btw I put my glass right on top of the old buildtak rather than try to remove it because it was really stuck on there.

As for the carriage plate, things were good for around 70 days, but eventually what happened was the original plate bent up in the corners so bad that I wasn't able to keep the bed level for more than a single print, and then suddenly I couldn't level anything at all. Since installing the carriage plate, I haven't leveled it again yet.

I'm going to suck it up and print that dii cooler too lol. Might have a friend do my first one since he has awesome cooling already.

u/frogsandstuff · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I have a maker select v2 and recently switched to 3 point leveling with one of these. Highly recommended.

This gives an excellent overview of the benefits of 3 point leveling.

I was having the same problems as you prior to the upgrade. I couldn't get even leveling across the bed which led to my printer collecting dust for a few months.

u/tropho23 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Hotend replacement:
I replaced the stock hotend/PTFE tube setup with an all-metal Micro Swiss hotend ($50):Amazon link to the Micro Swiss all-metal hotend kit: https://amazon.com/gp/product/B01E1HANLS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bed leveling:

  1. Most importantly, I purchased a glass bed to eliminate the never-really-level printbed.Amazon link to the borosilicate glass bed ($25): https://amazon.com/gp/product/B07BHG5HCV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

  2. Since that didn't I completely fix the warped bed issue, I also replaced the aluminum Y-carriage underneath with a thicker, stronger carriage and my bed leveling is now perfect. I still re-level before every print just in case, and now never have leveling-related problems.Amazon link to the aluminum Y-carriage ($28): https://amazon.com/gp/product/B07B251KBS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Frame Stabilization:
    I printed the parts, and purchased the hardware at Home Depot for the Z-brace mod, which stabilized the printer frame:Thingiverse link for Z-brace mod for I3 Plus: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1653631(note the original Thingiverse link in comments, which is required for the other Z-brace parts: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:921948)

    Cooling:
    I printed a Dii Cooler in PETG and replaced the stock cooler with one of those 24V "squirrel cage" fans, which provided much better cooling for all sides of my prints. Before that it really only cooled the front of prints, leaving the sides and especially the rear of prints looking pretty bad.Thingiverse link for Dii Cooler for i3 Plus: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1025471
u/70ms · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Couple of thoughts -

  • Preheat the bed to the print temp before leveling. On my MSP, the bed rises considerably depending on whether it's hot or cold.
  • When leveling, use printer paper. Business cards are too thick, you really want that nozzle close to the bed so it's smooshing that first layer down.
  • Preheat the bed for several minutes before starting the print

    Also, it will cost you some money but replacing the Y carriage and adding a good glass plate help too. I'll edit this in a sec with the links.

    Edit!

    Glass bed: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B2YLWF9
    Y-carriage: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B251KBS

    I originally was using thermal pads between the glass and the print surface. Eventually I found I had better results by skipping the pads, peeling off the print surface, and putting the glass directly on the metal bed with small binder clips on the left and right edges. I use Elmer's purple glue sticks for adhesion and rough it up with a sanding block between prints. Make sure your Y axis rods are level, as well.

    Good luck!

u/SPACEMONKEY_01 · 1 pointr/ender3

Here's the extruder: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B96QMN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uSFjDbRH4ZQE4

Here's the springs: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GXC1G2B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DTFjDb1KAPZ15

There's tons more. All you need to do is search Amazon. Glad I could help.

u/hopsided · 1 pointr/ender3

I have this one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B96QMN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xMgsDbWPWZ891

The spring that came with it was too weak and so filament was slipping.

u/Shadow703793 · 1 pointr/ender3

Get a all metal extruder top like this: https://smile.amazon.com/3D-Extruder-Aluminum-Filament-Creality/dp/B07B96QMN2

If you don't mind spending, consider just moving over to a direct drive setup like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omXgJT5V0D4

u/cosmic_boredom · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Would you recommend getting the upgraded aluminum extruder parts (like this one)? And could you explain what you mean by "spring tensioners"?

u/cjgoff · 1 pointr/ender3

I had the exact same problem with mine as well. Swapped out to an all metal extruded with a stronger spring.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B96QMN2

u/AwakenedPotato · 1 pointr/ender3

Got my printer in Jan, so still pretty new. I started having the same issue after doing a really long print. After messing with it for a few days and not getting anywhere I ended up replacing the entire extruder block with an all metal one. (
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B96QMN2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

I feel like getting that gear off is going to be important, not sure i can give any advice as to how to get that off the motor shaft, but you will need to remove the gear to replace the block.

u/drkgumby · 1 pointr/ender5

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B96QMN2/
I think I only paid about $14 for it. But that's too much. I've seen it elsewhere for less than 1/2 that price.

u/LongjumpingParamedic · 1 pointr/ender3

Specifically I'm talking about these dampers:

https://www.amazon.com/CCTREE-Stepper-Vibration-Dampers-Creality/dp/B07C7FRLNX/ref=pd_ybh_a_52?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=JG0WKDDM0VJE0BSHN7EF

I see instructions online about adding these to the stepper motors in order to make them a bit more quiet. The problem though is that my gears don't have the set screw shown in the screenshot there. So therefore I can't move the gear along the shaft. The result is that my gear is not aligned with the belt anymore once the damper is installed.

How do I fix this? I can't seem to pull the gear off by hand. I dunno if it's glued on or what.

u/DevinDeez36 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C7FRLNX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6zfOBbMX9DT8P

This is the one I bought and then watched a vid on YouTube and installed them. They worked for me so I don’t know if there’s better quality ones out there or not

u/mikej091 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Did you install dampers on the steppers (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7FRLNX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)? I started having that problem after doing that upgrade. I don't understand why it has the effect, but if you build up the "finger" on the switch with several layers of tape you should be able to get it working well enough again to print out a real bumper (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3003918)

u/taxxus · 1 pointr/ender3

I just installed these cheap dampers, like the ones you linked.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7FRLNX

The instructions I followed were here, and include good instructions for the extruder damper installation as well, if you choose to go that route:

https://letsprint3d.net/2018/07/07/how-to-install-stepper-motor-dampers-ender-3/

I did not bother with heatsinks, as the temp increase has been nominal, around 3-4c which is only 5-7 degrees F. This will still shorten the life of the stepper a bit, I am sure, but I doubt it will be terribly significant and for me the trade off is well worth it.

Additionally, I have noticed zero issues with my prints. I typically print at 0.2mm, but occasionally at 0.1 and my prints are still silky smooth at either res, enough that the tiny seam zits are the only defects I'm seeing. It did not effect precision either. My calibration items are usually within .00-.02mm in any direction, which is well within margin. That said, I calibrate regularly and at every filament change to keep things working as well as I can.

u/The57thUser · 1 pointr/CR10

Wow, thanks for going though that!

Though I'm going with the advice that almost everyone is saying on this post and wait for the printer to arrive.

That said, I'm going to buy the dampeners anyway because I'm in an apartment that the walls are thinner than most apartments in my area. I know that it's a 3-5 db difference based on what I read, but the lower the sound, the better.

I'm going with these dampeners

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I'm also going to get the M3 Scews anyway as well just to have spares.

> My glass was warped. I used the tape it came with to flatten it but then got the mirror.

if the glass bed is warped when it arrives, I'll get a mirror tile after making sure that the printer is working fine.

> Mine came with large knobs already. And the print bed strain relief for the wires.

I've been told now that this is the case. Though I did buy this from the GearBest US Warehouse so I don't know if what they have is the latest. though I guess I'll find out on Thursday.

> I'm still using the stock clips. Or you could print new ones.

I wasn't aware that stock came with clips! So I'm going to skip getting clips until the printer arrives.

> Maybe. I've been using a mirror from Home Depot and it's been ok. I saw the creality magnetic mounted surface was only $22 on amazon so I actually ordered that today.

Can you let me know how that goes? I was wondering about those too.

> Mine came with the upgraded extruder that works better with TPU and such. The holes already started wearing larger though where the filament fed so I got a $20 aluminum setup.

did you order those upgrades or are they on the printer?

> I'm using this new hot end vent ring too this week and been liking it. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2912394

Dumb question but are you using PLA or ABS for that vent ring? Just curious.

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Thank you so much for the advice!

u/pbeseda · 1 pointr/ender5

Yep - right off of Amazon.

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Stepper Dampers and TL-Smoothers.

u/legerdyl1 · 1 pointr/ender3

The couplings I use don't have those clips. These are the ones a lot of people seem to recommend so I don't think that they should give a problem. I tried that trick with using the bowden tube to clear the space but I didn't find any old filament.

u/TheLostReverend · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Ah! Just learned a mistake in my learning. I had retraction mixed around with what must be Z Hop. I had seen the extruder drive make reverse moves but had not considered this to be retraction. A little confused as to why the profile would come with such a high retraction if this was way too long. (See the large dragon profile https://www.3dprintedtabletop.com/resources/3d-printing-profiles/)

I picked up a replacement bowden tube as recommended for the Ender 3 so will be fitting this soon. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07DC594D6?ref_=pe_3187911_248764861_302_E_DDE_dt_1 . I'll also be upgrading the fan sets as my next purchase as well.

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I'll do the following for my next attempt:

  • Perform a cold pull to get rid of any existing material.
  • Run the profile on a string test to check out the retraction (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2080224).
  • Dial in the (reduce) the retraction settings to get this right
  • Test again on this model! (I may add z hop to prevent drag during travel.
u/Fleemo17 · 1 pointr/ender3

Hmmm, maybe I should just go ahead and replace the whole tube and the fittings while I'm at it. That seems to be a highly recommended upgrade.

One day I'll actually get to do some printing of cool things instead of merely trying to get my Ender 3 operational. :/

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u/DjSisko · 1 pointr/ender5

Yup. Nothing really changed other then +5 degrees on the hot end. I do have small mods like these

Aluminum Extruder

tube & fittings

u/ThatAnnoyedGuy · 1 pointr/ender3

You seem knowledgeable about the couplers... Would these be better than stock? 4 Pieces PC4-M6 Quick Fitting + 4 Pieces PC4-M10 Straight Pneumatic Fitting

u/SergioCarmo · 1 pointr/ender3

I changed to a PTFE tube that came with some coupling that e bought, because i didnt like the original couplings. The diference i noticed is that this tube lets the filament flow more freely.

Link to the couplings and tube:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07DC594D6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/jamesabels · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I got this comes with a lot of tube, probably a few feet and a lot of extra couplers, I've had it up to 260 since and haven't had an issue

u/exccord · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Improvements/add-ons

Filament Roller Guide. You will thank yourself later to further prevent the filament from grooving an indentation where it feeds into your extruder. It utilizes bearings but its a fantastic design. I had mine for ~2 months when I started noticing the groove already being made.

XT60 Connector clips - if you want a little "cable management"

LCD Cable Clips - Also if you want a little "cable management". There is also an LCD Cover for the PCB to keep dust and whatnot out.

• Any fan covers you find that suit your style as you dont want filament going into the box in the bottom left (not entirely too sure what it holds).

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Physical Upgrades

Upgrade the bed springs as my originals started to sag a little. Not exactly sure on what the technical name for those springs are but those are the ones I purchased and I have been happy with them.

Borosilicate glass bed. I use to use the stock mat, tape method, and hairspray method. All of those worked for a little bit but were a complete pain and mess to deal with from time to time. All I do now is use some isopropyl alcohol and clean my glass bed every once in a while but past that I require NO adhesion for my bed outside of tiny pieces that require a brim, skirt or whatever support needed to keep it adhered. As long as your print bed is leveled as best as possible (have a nice filament "squish") you will have no issues.

• Some other things you could look into if you plan to print with other kinds of filament outside of PLA would be: Micro Swiss steel nozzle, Capricorn tubing and an upgraded extruder like the e3d. Keep it simple for right now though while you learn your rigs because I strongly feel no ender 3 works the same and my preference for which program (MatterHacker, Slic3r or Cura) depends on how I feel how the model appears and how its coming out. Also, grab yourself a handful of replacement nozzles if you continue to use the brass ones. They CAN wear out if you use the printer like crazy, so its always good to have spares (also can get a variety of sizes too - standard being the 0.1mm I believe?). I snagged a pack of 10 for $5-8.

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Last but not least, run a few bed level test prints as well. The best one that I have found which helps me dial in my printing was CHEPs bed level STL file. Video & G-Code file. I use it religiously if I ever find that my bed is out of wack.



There are a handful of other mods/add-ons you can find on Thingiverse and another website (one which we arent allowed to link to unfortunately).

u/TheLastWallaby · 1 pointr/ender3
u/LongLiveCHIEF · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Yeah, I got a bunch of tips. Did you join the HackerHappyHour discord? If you did, there's a 3d-printing channel in the Maker section, and I can respond faster there. (I only check reddit every few days usually) Here's the join link if you need it again: https://discord.gg/WNDrtWM

I have used 2 build plate surfaces so far. The build-tak that came with the kit, and a borosilicate glass plate I got from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DFTKCV9

I use Slic3r (and I'm now an official contributor to it!), and I have been posting my Slic3r profiles in this gist when i get then nailed down: https://gist.github.com/LongLiveCHIEF/6363bba1e4799bff9122c03f5e8096e3#file-slic3r_ender3_config_bundle-ini

The Ender3 ini bundle that is there now is for the buildtak plate, and I'm almost done with my glass settings.

I also upgraded the bed springs, bought a BLTouch auto-bed-level, and some automotive feeler guages so I can exactly level and dial in my bed shape to slic3r

The reason I did all that, is the biggest factor for sticking is going to be temperate. If you take bed shape/leveling/distance out of the equation, it's easier to focus on temperature without worrying about other factors messing up your layers.

All in all though, I haven't had a lot of problems getting things to stick. You can see my temp settings in the gist I posted, but I've been finding lately that for Hatchbox, the best temperature seems to be 187 - 192 for the hot end, and about 57 - 63 for the bed. Technically you don't need to heat the bed for PLA, but I haven't tried a cold bed yet so couldn't tell you if that works well or not.

u/No-lfe-king · 1 pointr/3Dprinting
u/alaorath · 1 pointr/ender3

Go glass.

PLA sticks with nothing for prep, smooth bottom surface, and very, very flat.

(edit) - with the upgraded yellow springs, I don't even need to level anymore - except when I change tips.

u/Murder_Not_Muckduck · 1 pointr/ender5

Yep. Just the standard Creality bed.

Official Creality 3D Ender 3 Ender 3 Pro Ender 5 Tempered Glass Upgraded Build Plate Printing Surface for Heated Bed 235x235mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F16WPR5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_35VBDbA6SHFZB

u/craywolf · 1 pointr/ender3

Watch this video to help with assembly. The included instructions are full of engrish and hard to follow. This guy makes it easy, and adds some handy tips. If you're not replacing the bowden tube immediately (you don't need to, but it's a cheap and relatively easy upgrade), skip the steps in his video where he removes the tube and its couplers.

Read this comment for my advice on how to level the bed. Leveling is a misnomer - you don't want it level compared to gravity, but compared to the gantry. The usual advice involves sliding a piece of paper under the nozzle as a feeler gauge. That'll get you close - the steps in my comment will get you just about perfect.

Once you've done that, this fan shroud is one of the few things I'd call an essential upgrade. Also a glass bed.

u/wesleeptheylive · 0 pointsr/3Dprinting

something like this? seems inexpensive enough to give it a try. extr