Best 3d printer controllers according to redditors

We found 162 Reddit comments discussing the best 3d printer controllers. We ranked the 40 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about 3D Printer Controllers:

u/apathycoalition · 15 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Seems like something that would be better suited for an Arduino Mega than a raspberry pi. You'd be able to connect a lot more bottles of liquor to it.

I'd have also gone with a cheaper but larger LCD instead of the super tiny OLED. Plus then you get a beeper, and a knob/button combo for selecting the drinks. Combine that with u8g2 and lcdmenulib2 and you've got a more friendly interface.

u/SakrethGarlon · 8 pointsr/3Dprinting

It's a super easy mod to do. The parts are like $8 on Amazon and you print the mount. This is the first thing I did on my Maker Select.
Mod link: https://letsprint3d.net/2017/01/29/guide-installing-a-mosfet-board-maker-select-v2/
Part: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HEQVQAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cZbPCbG4PRAN7

u/seriouslydh · 5 pointsr/3Dprinting

OSOYOO 3D Printer Kit with RAMPS 1.4 Controller + Mega 2560 board + 5pcs A4988 Stepper Motor Driver with Heatsink + LCD 12864 Graphic Smart Display Controller with Adapter For Arduino RepRap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0111ZSS2O?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/Upgrayeddddd · 4 pointsr/3Dprinting

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG

Keeps it all at ~12.5V. I managed to get one screw into it to hold it where the old one used to go.

Also get the mosfet to run the bed power completely independently of the controller board for another $10:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HEQVQAK/

Use some ~14ga lamp cord to tie it in. :)

u/Hollywood0967 · 4 pointsr/3Dprinting

I have the MKS gen 1.4 that came with my FT5 R2 and I love it, super easy to work on as everything is clearly labelled, does it's job nicely. They're pretty cheap on Amazon, $35 any day of the week.

I don't have much experience with other board styles, but the Ramps was $8ish on Amazon. I don't know if you need additional hardware going that route, but the MKS will function on it's own.

Mks 1.4: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072ZZ3YQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_SivJBbHRKHRHQ

u/ba12348 · 4 pointsr/Ask3D

I love the RAMPS 1.4 on my Makerfarm i3v, basically the same as the controller that comes with your printer, just slightly less contained. This one comes with the big screen and SD card reader, and it only costs 33 bucks. (Never heard of the brand though) Or you can get the full kit with brand name parts from Makerfarm for $130.

u/aliniazi · 4 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Amazon.

I'd recommend the RAMPS 1.4 board as there is already a guide to installing it on the Mini and a BLTouch mechanical probe sensor that is also on Amazon.

Also note you need someway to mount your probe the hot end so since no one has done it yet with Mini (publicly anyways), you'd probably have to design your own mount and print it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0111ZSS2O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017NEGTXC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076PQG1FF/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/cye604 · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

Basically, the printer currently pulls power from the PSU, runs it through the main control board, and out to the heated bed. The thing is, that's a lot of power to pull and push through such tiny connectors. The Mosfet is like a little light switch. The control board tells it to turn on, and it just lets electricity flow from the PSU to the heated bed, no issues.

Here is a good one. Just take the wires from the board, and put them where this one says "Hot Bed." Then, connect wires from the PSU (screw terminals) to the other 2 screws on the Mosfet. Finally, connect the 2 wires on the Mosfet to where you pulled out the wires from the control board.

u/spengineer · 3 pointsr/prusa3d

When I put mine together, I had an issue with the screen contrast. But it sounds like yours may have just died.

You can find replacement screens on Amazon (like this one) and AliExpress. It's a standard part, so they're pretty cheap.

u/DeepReally · 3 pointsr/ender3

Allegro A4988 are the cheapest, whiniest drivers.

TI DRV8825 are a step up in quality.

TMC2130 are usually considered the best.

u/BillNyeDeGrasseTyson · 3 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HEQVQAK

I used this one. Good for 15A.

u/theOTHERbrakshow · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

It really depends on how comfortable you feel with electronics. Watch Youtube videos on the conversion and see if its something you are up for. If it were me, I'd do RAMPS (still with the mosfet mod) with Marlin firmware. Several people on this sub have done it and would mostly likely be nice enough to give you their Marlin firmware. If you go this route you'll have to set the current limit on the drivers, edit the configuration.h in Marlin, calibrate the e-steps, PID tune both hotend/bed and give the RAMPS board solder joints a carefully once over. Sometimes there are extra solder balls and shotty joints.
EDIT: you might also need to recrimp some connectors.

u/russiancatfood · 3 pointsr/Reprap

If you have Amazon available, this is by far the best price on the full setup (plus LCD and SD card slot)

www.amazon.com/dp/B0111ZSS2O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_ZITDwb43HXT2

I've bought about 5 of them, and these guys may actually have some quality control.

u/Luftwaff1es · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

Look, I am talking completely out of my ass here as I don't have any experience with your printer. I do have an A8 though and I don't trust it as far as I can throw it. That being said, the GT2560 looks orders of magnitude better than the board on the A8 and so is probably capable of driving the 12A or so for the heat bed.

Still, if you have one of these MOSFETs lying around it might be worth the piece of mind to take the load of the main board.

Again, I have no experience with your printer so I am probably 110% wrong.

u/ggppjj · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

The e3d V6 lite needed this carriage mount (and this is the direct-drive version, not the bowden setup) to be printed in ABS (and ONLY ABS, PLA will warp and eventually bust. Plus, ABS repairs with acetone really well and easily, so I've busted the one I printed a while back a couple times and just re-welded it together). This is the power supply I got, and I also got two of these MOSFETs. More info on the wiring here, I'd also recommend their advice in replacing the wiring to the bed and the mainboard with higher-gauge wires to prevent issues.

Ninja edit:
I also had to adjust my printer firmware to have the new center-point for the hotend set to actual center, for that I had to flash SkyNet3D firmware, a Marlin-based firmware made specifically for the board the A8 came with. If you're replacing the board with a RAMPS board, more than likely you'll be setting it up for all that anyways.

u/slakwhere · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

thank you for this post. i am not OP but just got a Maker Select, grabbed the board from amazon and the print from thingiverse and will upgrade my printer ASAP!

u/micahjoel_dot_info · 3 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I'm working on this mod: https://gigdigit.com/extended-heat-bed-kits-120-x-250mm-print-area-3mm-thick-select-mini-v1-v2/

The double-sized hotbed takes more power than the stock power supply can put out (especially the newer 7 amp models, which I have)

So I decided to use one of the MOSFET drivers, through the existing power jack, to which I'll connect a beefier power supply. I chose this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK

The top two terminals tap into power as shown here: https://imgur.com/NYOGok9

The bottom two run through the braided cable (joined by the thermistor wires and run to the new platform. The small connector goes to the original board's hotbed connection.

If anyone else has done this mod, or something similar, I have a few questions.

  1. I can't quite figure out how the hotbed wires are supposed to route. The larger bed has connections on the side. Facing the printer, would those work better attaching at the right-hand or left-hand side? (I can post pictures if it would help)

  2. I had previously done the external wire routing for the hotbed. Is externally-routed wiring advisable (or even possible) with this configuration?

    I'll probably have more questions as I go. :-)
u/mcm001 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I found a clone board, which includes an LCD, Mega, motor driver, etc. I've got a Raspberry Pi lying around that I can use to run Octoprint. My only concern is, as it's a clone part, is it going to be worth the $37 US? Also, a question about the heated bed - I assume the builid plate sits above the heated bed, so must the build plate be the same size as the heated bed? Or can it be slightly larger? I'll get back to you after I get the parts (or worst case, my printer doesn't cancel). Thank you for all your help, xakh!

EDIT: Also, I'm having some trouble locating a bowden cable. Also, the printer's coming in around $50 over my $250 budget. Is it possible to cut that any lower?

EDIT2: This really, really sucks. My printer was shipped already and they won't cancel it. Well, this will be the first thing I print after I level the bed and test it out. Thank you for your help, I'll build a SmartRapCore as soon as I can. Sigh

u/DinnerMilk · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

The Melzi board doesn't come with a bootloader so you will need to burn one first. Good news is that it's easy, downside is you will need to buy a couple tools. A $3 Uno board + bread board jumpers worked great for me, wrote a guide on it here if you're interested. You can alternatively use a USBASP or various other tools, but I can't provide much insight on those.

Once you have a bootloader on the board, you can flash your firmware of choice. The stock board uses Repetier firmware, but if you opt to change it, I would go with Marlin. It's the easiest to use, widely supported (installed on almost all modern 3D Printers) and there is tons of information on it. The TH3D Unified firmware claims to work on the Maker Select, although I have never tried it. Just from a brief search, I found this one on Github for the MS V2 and would probably start there myself.

As a personal recommendation, things have come a long ways since the Maker Select was made. If you can find (or design) and adapter bracket, I would just put that money towards a better board which have come way down in price. For $22, you can pick up a 32 bit BIQU SKR 1.3 board, grab whatever drivers you want, and put your firmware of choice on it (no flashing a bootloader needed). Melzi boards are overpriced and flawed, where RAMPS has been a popular "upgrade" for the Maker Select for years, but those are getting rather outdated these days as well.

If you need help, shoot me a message and I will be happy to help with whatever route you decide to go.

u/dbaderf · 2 pointsr/ender3

Try this one for half that.

u/norefillonsleep · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

When it happened to me I put in XT60 connectors and I figured while I was at it I'd install a MOSFET.

Guide I based my replacements on;
https://3dprinterwiki.info/di3-mods/heat-bed-terminal-burning-fix/

https://3dprinterwiki.info/heatbed-terminal-burning-fix-with-mosfet-board/

MOSFET I installed;

BIQU Heat Bed Power Module Expansion Hot Bed MOS Tube for 3D Printer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HEQVQAK?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/ccai · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

It's ridiculously easy to do the mod and not that expensive (<$15). Unless you plan not to ever take your eyes off the machine, I suggest you do the mod. Even the time period you take for a bathroom break can be dangerous. My connector started smoking/melting and melted a bit of my board while I was waiting for the printer to preheat as I went out of my room to grab some water to drink.

All you have to do is remove the wires going to the bed from the labelled connector and attach it to the side of the mosfet that says hot bed, attach the smaller wires to the labelled connector and using another bit of high gauge wire that you can get from Home Depot/Lowes/local hardware store to connect it to a 12v(+) terminal on the power supply and another to the (-) terminal. All this is done with a screw driver and the included allen keys.

Or just get this all in one kit to make it even easier.

u/AddictedToComedy · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Congrats and welcome to the club!

> Some of the supports looked "wonky" during the print. Like, they didn't go "straight up". Is that normal or did it not have enough cooling?

Not sure what you mean. This print doesn't use supports. Do you mean the walls? Any photos that can show us what you observed?

When printing PLA, more cooling is almost always better: hard to have too much. I'm not sure what problem you observed or whether cooling would have solved it, but better cooling will definitely improve future prints.

> As you can see, it was printed on a raft. If you look cloesly, the bottom of the of the butterfly has a slight lip around it (like the first couple layers are wider than the rest. Is there anything I can do to improve upon that so it's straight the whole way up and down?

Hm, it's not as common to see elephant's foot for something printed on a raft. Usually it happens from the nozzle really squishing the first layer into the bed, or the bed being too hot.

You'll want to learn how to print without rafts ASAP, at which point you'll want to keep an eye on that. Leveling and temperature will make a difference once you're printing directly on the bed, but the best solution is usually a model that compensates for this with a chamfer. After all, really squishing that first layer helps with adhesion and finish. A chamfer allows this without the elephant's foot.

> It has a heated bed with that "sticker/tape/thing".. Does that mean I don't need to bother with painter's tape/a glue stick/hair spray?

I just print straight to my Maker Select bed (with their version of Buildtak that you show in your photos).

Some people still add tape/glue on top of it, but I haven't found it necessary. I've printed everything straight on the bed (mostly PLA, some PETG and TPU) and haven't had a problem yet with adhesion (knock on wood).

> I plan on doing the MOFSET mod and getting a glass plate as soon as I replenish my "fun" funds next month (kinda drained it all picking this thing up).

Just my opinion - some others will disagree - but I'd put money towards the MOSFET before new filament. Maybe you don't have some of the tools and would need to buy them, but the MOSFET itself is just over $10. That's less than a roll of filament and protects the integrity of your new purchase.

u/0nn0 · 2 pointsr/Anet3DPrinters

A RAMPS 1.6* kit would be the cheapest. Best would be something like a Einsy RAMBO* (a board very similar to the one on the Prusa MK3), but that's $120. A good middle of the road solution is the RUMBA+* combined with some stepstick format stepperdrivers. The stock anet uses A4988's*, there's also the option to use DRV8825's* (better resolution, but some people experience resonance related issues) or TMC2130's*. (allows for very silent running) and a screen* (if not included)

In any case, make sure that it has some kind of overcurrent protection. I prefer solutions with blade fuses (also commonly referred to as automotive fuses) It really pays to do some research of your own and to see what you want to get out of a printer. Eventually most A8 frames get converted to other models using the other parts of the kit for the electronics. You should check out the wiki, it contains a couple of good pointers to get you started.

*^(please note that the links provided are meant as illustrations and that I don't necessarily mean to endorse the linked products)

[edit]

As stated before, just toss the melzi and/or anet controller. They're fire hazards. And while you're at it, better improve rather than sidegrade.

u/enigma-prime · 2 pointsr/arduino

It does seem to come with the drivers. This is what I was looking at. KINGPRINT CNC Shield V3.0 Expansion Board for Arduino with 4pcs A4988 Stepper Motor Driver with Heatsink kits for Arduino https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0793Q61Z9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IKaCCb2MCDFY0

u/FDM_Process · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

For sure. http://www.soliforum.com/topic/2816/howto-converting-to-a-ramps-controller/

Pretty helpful sub, you can always ask me for help if you get stuck along the way. Also, I used the Makerfarm Pegasus instructions for putting the RAMPS together.

This is the kit I bought, it was mostly complete but I had to order some jumpers because I was short a few. http://www.amazon.com/OSOYOO-Printer-Controller-Stepper-Heatsink/dp/B0111ZSS2O?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00

u/gootarts · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

There are a couple ones I've seen in tutorials: I used this, but seen some youtubers use this.

u/Anarasha · 2 pointsr/ender3

Oh, fair enough. Now that you post it, I did have the issue with the Y axis, but I just printed a tiny little part that let me movemy endstop forwards around 10mm :D


I would definitely have picked that too if I had known about it.
If you're willing to spend a small amount extra, you can get them seperately: Board and Drivers

u/lumpy_potato · 2 pointsr/Reprap

Amazon sells the package I noted for $220. According to camelcamelcamel its been up and down, but the $220 price isn't a new one. Plus it has Prime shipping and Amazon customer service to work with for RMA/Returns. If their pricing remains the same after today, then buying from eBay or Amazon would be better than buying direct in some cases (the basic RAMPS kit is more expensive on Amazon, but cheaper on eBay).

If the pricing goes back to normal after Black Friday, then we'll have to 3D print some pitchforks.

u/xakh · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

That RAMPS 1.4 SB thing looks amazing for a RAMPS. The one issue I see is that it looks like you're buying a 24V PSU, and I'm pretty sure even with that beefy board, RAMPS tops out at a bit above 12V. With the upgraded MOSFETs and connectors, a high intensity 12V PSU wouldn't be an issue in the slightest, but you'll need to get something that is 12 volts. In addition, if you want to use the screen included with your Duplicator, you'll need the adapter that clips onto the I/O pins at the back of the board. Weirdly, one of the cheapest ways to get one is to just buy an entire LCD assembly and keep the spare LCD around as a spare part. You'll also need the "RRD adapter cable" available on Panucatt's website, though that's just a buck fifty, so it's not like that's a huge loss. Lastly, you may have to add some custom lines to the firmware file to support the PT100 on the RE-ARM. I recall Smoothieware has support for the PT100, but it requires enabling a few flags, and installing a newer version of Smoothieware on the board than what's included with the RE-ARM (unless they've updated it since I bought mine, totally possible, as that was several months ago).

Other than that, I'd say it's a pretty kickass upgrade.

u/NotPapaJohns · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

The Monoprice maker select v2(.1?) Is a little over $300 on Amazon, but other than that, it fits all of your other needs. It uses standard metric screws and such, so fixing and modding the printer is easy. It's also has a respectable build volume of 200mm^2 and a height of 180mm, which is nice to have. It comes mostly assembled: you just need to use 4 included screws to attatch the gantry to the base and 2 more to attach the filament holder. It took me no time at all to start a test print. I'm coming up on six months with my printer now, and it hasn't given out on me once. For the best prints, you'll want to do some mods, but only the absolutely necessary MOSFET mod requires non-printed hardware that isn't just screws and nuts (or the standard M8 threaded rod used in AzzA's Z-brace mod).
Tl;dr: Monoprice Maker Select v2 on Amazon, order a MOSFET to go with it, 10/10 IGN

u/McNerdius · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I went with this

this standoff made to fit that mosfet may be of interest as well.

u/vorpal-blade · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I ordered two of them, one is operating just fine on the A8 for the past 6 months or so. The other one is the topic of this conversation.

Ha: Reading that listing again, it says 15 amps max. I guess there is my answer.

u/AirsoftGuru · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I know this may seem like a silly question but it is nearly impossible without any knowledge to search for these connectors online. I am referring to the white connector with the cable installed. It looks similar to a JST but slightly different. Look at the link. This is a heatbed mosfet and I need to replace the cable due to a printer redesign. If anyone knows the style of connector I would be very grateful. The wire is about 20 gauge. Here's a link to the product page, I couldn't find any info there.

u/midnightsmith · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Seconding everything people have said here and want to add the following.
A glass bed with 10mil PEI from CS Hyde will do wonders for bed leveling.

Upgrade your Y plate as soon as possible, the stock one warps over enough time making bed leveling nearly impossible.

All metal hotend such as the micro swiss is amazing, no more clogged PTFE tubing, easier to clean if it does.

Z brace is a must, also print a fan cooler like the Diicooler on thingiverse. Replace the stock part cooling fan with a nice radial fan, plenty on amazon, make sure its 12v. This helps prints come out cleaner.

Yours should come with thumbwheels, if not, print some, bed leveling is easier with it.

Print some spring cups as well, keeps the springs straight and not bending when leveling the bed.

DO THE MOSFET MOD TO MAKE IT SAFE!

Watch this vid and do his printed mods https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tpcm4XEbP1Q&t=752s&list=PLyIdpN_zILcknsQzSZSiWhQ685NxkWsvD&index=2

Also, stay far far FAR away from Shaxon filament! It broke my hotend, check my post history to see the red glob of death I dealt with. I have had very good luck with eSun PLA.

Links for bought parts:
Fans: [here (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJU6JR2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)]

Glass plate: [Here (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B2YLWF9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)]

Hotend: [Here(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E1HANLS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)]

Y plate: [Here (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B251KBS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)]

MOSFET: [here(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)] and wires [here(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017U6PGLO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)]

u/oopspowsurprise · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

The MKS Gen L 1.0 is a great Arduino based board. Got one running an i3 clone. Went with an Arduino Ramps 1.4 shield on my mini due to the fact I had that on hand Honestly would have rather gone with something like the Makerbase board instead if only to save on overhead space as mentioned. However, so you know both are the same just wrapped up in a different package.

Edit:

Forgot to add I used this screen:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076WQQX5K

And this for a place to put it:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2133588

I would post pictures but I have been lazy and have yet to stick things into the base yet. :)

u/no_werewolf · 2 pointsr/CR10

I successfully got Klipper up and running on my CR10 using this ramps 1.4 board and some cheap A4988s.

https://amzn.com/gp/product/B072KRFDHK/

the CR10 end-stops can just sorta plug into the board, and most everything wires right up. Just had to swap my hot-end fan and parts cooler fan, and flip the connector for the hot-end fan (polarity is flipped for some reason). I also had to invert Y-axis and Z-axis in the config.

No test prints yet just did a motor and heater/thermistor test.
So far this thing is awesome! Easy to flash. Easy to setup. headless printer. :D

u/hartk1213 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Yes I would say the heated bed is a necessity if you want to print ABS the stock bed only reaches 45-50c and takes along time to heatup , the bed I bought is from folgertech it's the 12v silicone heated bed 300x300 and yes you could do a separate PSU as well I just didn't need to and the mosfet I bought is the trigorilla mosfet on Amazon, I would recommend that mosfet over any other as I bought a DCDC SSR and it didn't work, i then bought a BIQU mosfet on Amazon and it started smoking so I returned it but the trigorilla mosfet has had no issues so far, to add to my heated im going to add some cork to insulate it to hold the heat better.. hope this helps

u/toybuilder · 1 pointr/PLC

Ah, well, part of this difference in perspective may be the career path I had -- I've been doing custom electronics off and on for the past 20 years, and a larger number of the electronics design projects I work on are self-contained devices. A different realm than industrial applications. (I also used to do IT/Networking -- in that world, everything was networking gear, servers, and storage devices.)

In some cases, when I talk about real-time, I'm talking about timing relationships that are measured in ones or tens of nanoseconds. The PLC specs I've seen so far talk about cycles times of hundreds of microseconds -- which clearly wouldn't work for those applications requiring sub-microsecond timing. Of course, not everything I do is like that. In fact, most of the work are fine for PLC cycle timescales.

At the start of my career, I worked on a "crane game" arcade machine which would have been trivial to do with a PLC had I known about them then.

It's just that I've spent most of time at a different end of the spectrum than you, I think, and I'm now trying to get a better grasp and understanding of the PLC world.

BTW, I'd love to hear about your background and the path you took to get to working with what you use.

Also, could you point me to where I can read about some of the more "high-grade" systems that you mentioned? I'd really like to learn about them. TIA!

It's an interesting point you make about "selling lots of machines". I can see how if you are selling industrial equipment, using PLC's as building blocks would be the more appropriate approach.

A 3D printer is, in many ways, similar to such an industrial machine in complexity. The most popular forms of building printers today is to use a printer controller built around the Arduino platform (or, more correctly, the Microchip/Atmel Atmega family processors that are used in Arduino). We're talking about a controller board that typically runs 3 PID temperature control loops, 5 axes of motion control, communication with a host computer, reading (and occasionally writing) data to an SD card, running a control panel with LEDs, a graphical LCD, audio, and user inputs, and incorporating the motor driver -- for $35, delivered from Amazon (just to grab the first example I found). By my estimate, at least several tens of thousands of those are sold every year now.

Would I want to run an actual industrial machine with that board? Heck no! :) (They are known fire-starters in some cases, and most of the cheap boards lack hardening that you find in superior devices.)

u/coryjac0b · 1 pointr/CR10

I’ve done some basic configuring on a pi before, but not an Arduino.

Is something like this a good place to start?

OSOYOO 3D Printer Kit with RAMPS 1.4 Controller + Mega 2560 board + 5pcs A4988 Stepper Motor Driver with Heatsink + LCD 12864 Graphic Smart Display Controller with Adapter For Arduino RepRap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0111ZSS2O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VXi2AbTGH6C67

u/XNovaViperX · 1 pointr/ender3

Get the SKR V1.3 paired with TMC2208, They have some on Amazon and they came in 2 days. As far as setup, it's *mostly* plug and play but do mind you will have to shave down the endstop connectors to get them to fit the board and change a few things on Marlin, but they're really nice!

Here's where I got mine from:

SKR v1.3: https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Printer-Smoothieboard-Compatible-Ramps1-4/dp/B07P87J274/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=bigtreetech+skr+v1.3&qid=1563046045&s=gateway&sr=8-3

TMC2208: https://www.amazon.com/TMC2208-Printer-Stepper-Driver-Screwdriver/dp/B07Q2YKDWW/ref=pd_sbs_328_2/139-5611230-5256615?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07LG1MJY2&pd_rd_r=46839a50-a5a4-11e9-9331-ed4485755cdc&pd_rd_w=8MpMP&pd_rd_wg=hSGbK&pf_rd_p=588939de-d3f8-42f1-a3d8-d556eae5797d&pf_rd_r=FY218K82SEYWVPK1BHTA&refRID=FY218K82SEYWVPK1BHTA&th=1

​

Also, here's a good video that Teaching Teach made about installing the SKR on the Ender 3: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GNGN2iSQ5j4

u/pixelatedCatastrophe · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I picked up the Wanhao with the understanding that I would end up having to rebuild it at some point, and by doing so I would hopefully learn something about how they work. It just happened to break when I've got some interesting stuff to print.

That Melzi board has never worked right from the start. It had a weird temperature fluctuation issue related to a bad ground, which Wanhao refused to warranty. I fixed the ground and replaced the hotend with the microswiss hotend and it worked beautifully for 2 weeks. I guess the Florida heat and the added stress of printing petg at 240c did it in.

I'm considering going with a ramps control board like this one due to the low cost. Is there anything that i should be specifically looking for when buying a control board? Thanks for your help with all this.

u/wzcx · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I'd go smoothieboard (SKR V1.3) with Klipper. All your printer parameters are editable in a text file that lives on a pi, which is running klipper and octoprint. So changing the printer footprint is a single line edit per axis.

u/pixillateme · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

https://www.amazon.com/ReliaBot-Expansion-Heating-Controller-Current/dp/B078S6221G/

Would you recommend this? And then it is a simple swap out with the mechanical relay, nothing else is needed?

u/b4n4n4r4m4 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Do you have a specific board that you would recommend? This was one I saw linked on thingiverse earlier:
https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Power-Module-Expansion-Printer/dp/B01HEQVQAK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510026227&sr=8-3&keywords=mosfet

u/acepilot1212 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

The heatsink was on it, I removed it after I saw the back of the board and figured that's where the issue was. I purchased this (Quimat QK17 3D Printer Kit 5pcs A4988 Stepper Motor Driver with Heatsink + Controller RAMPS 1.4 +LCD 12864 Graphic Smart Display Controller with Adapter + Mega 2560 R3 For Arduino RepRap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C2IHYBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_toDlxbGQEKV81) to replace it since the melzi board was $85, but I have no idea what I'm doing with it quite frankly. I've built and repaired computers and phones, but this is a bit more complex. I'm sure I can learn how to do it, but have no idea where to start since instructions one making THAT board work with the exact parts and wires I have, I can't seem to find.

u/SpitFiya7171 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I actually just bought what you probably got

u/loTkv · 1 pointr/wanhaoi3

Did anyone of you do the mosfet mod on the msp? I bought this mosfet I am wondering if it will work or will this specific cause more problems? Seeing that most people use a different mosfet for the msp.

u/JohnWasser · 1 pointr/Anet3DPrinters

>KINGPRINT board

From the KINGPRINT advertisement on Amazon it appears to be a $60 5-stepper Smoothieboard clone.

https://www.amazon.com/KINGPRINT-Smoothieware-Controller-Board-Printer/dp/B071X8MBYT/ref=pd_bxgy_328_2

u/DaoDeer · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Buy

($6)Wires:For the MOFSET mod

($1o)MOFSET

($6)Wire spades:For the MOFSET mod

($8)Assorted M3 Bolts:You need some for a few mods and for the bolts you will inevitably strip on this cheap wonderful machine

($13)Longer assorted M3 Bolts:For a few mods

($9)M4 Bolts:For one of the mods

($9)Metric allen wrench set:Had to order one of these since metric tools aren’t common round these parts

(~$20) PLA of preferred choice- You’ll run out of the sample bit quick so go ahead and order a roll or two to be prepared. You will note some upgrades require ABS so a small spool of that to your order will also help.

($6)M3 Lock nuts:Critically needed for a simple mod

($10)Threaded rod and nuts:Please note that this item seemed difficult to find online. I recommend going to your local hardware store and getting two 5/16” rods of at least 16” in length. They should have an assortment of threaded rod in various lengths available. Also note that the pitch of the threading matches the nuts you buy. Further instructions regarding this can be seen in Azza’s Z-Axis braces below.)

($6)9mm Wrench for the nozzle: Don’t wait for your first clog, go ahead and have this on hand to remove/change the nozzle. Note to only tighten/loosen the nozzle when heated.



Below is the order of printable upgrades I recommend but I suggest you mix in a few other prints along the way because this is a hobby after all and you should be having fun. It helps to have your quality as tuned in as much as possible for some of these so be patient and keep trying if you need to.

Print

Spool holder- temporary : Until you can mount your spool on top of the enclosure or any other personal preference.

Belt tensioner- print x2

Z-brace

Shielded stop button

Cable relocator : It’s a pain, but if you spend the time to do this and turn your extruder motor 90 degrees then you can get the full Z height without ruining your cables. It does involve opening all the cables to the PSU and feeding a few extra inches back through the cable chains.

Cable shroud : Looks nice if you do the cable relocator.


The following need to be printed in ABS:

M3 Bed Nut retainer: 10/10 upgrade. I know they look worse than the nice metal stock ones, but these help keep your bed level longer.

CiiCooler

Glass bed Holder


Now that the first major round of printed upgrades is done it’s time to shift to a few more supplies to pick up to really fine tune the machine.


Buy

($5)Radial fan: For CiiCooler

($5)Glue sticksThis and a glass bed is magic

($25)Borosilicate glass 8” x 8”

($26)Y-Carriage plate upgrade: This has been a nice upgrade as I now only need to relevel the bed every couple weeks instead of every print. Check out this guide for a ‘how to’ as well as a free upgrade by shifting your Y pulley over.

($15)rechargeable dehumidifier: For keeping in the bin with your opened filaments

($9)Extruder gears: Might be able to hold off on these, but will need eventually. If for some reason you have a Maker Select with metal X-axis blocks (V1 and V2, but not V2.1) then this is a must. You can follow this guide for a how to.

($28)Metal extruder plate and lever: Not needed, but nice.

($14)Noctua 40mm fan: Not needed, but makes the printer a lot quitter. A LOT quieter.

($50)MicroSwiss All Metal Hot End: The destruction of my PTFE tube by this point pushed me to doing this upgrade. If needed you can follow this guide for replacement. Remember to tighten/loosen when the nozzle its hot.

($6)Ceramic cotton: Tore off the stock one when replacing for the all metal hot end by accident. At least its thicker than stock

Now that the printer is in its final form, its time for the enclosure which is a stacked Ikea Lack hack.

Print

Spool holder

Pi Case

120mm fan cover

Fan grill

120mm fan PSU modification: I edited this to fit upside down since my PSU is mounted on the underside. This was nice since I blew the 40mm fan anyways so it made everything a lot quieter than before.

IKEA Lack filament guide

Webcam holder: This is one I designed specifically for the webcam I happen to have lying around. The camera mount piece can be changed out no problem though for what ever webcam you have or buy. The SketchUp file is included on Thingiverse for such purpose.

Buy

($20)2x Ikea Lack: Luckily there is one right down the street from me. I am located in North America though, so we do not have the STUVA, if you live literally anywhere else you may check in to this as an alternative.

($80)Plexi glass for enclosure: Could be cheaper alternatives, but it looks cool

($9)Foam pads for feet

($42)Raspberry Pi3: For OctoPrint. I also suggest using a different USB cable than the stock one provided by Monoprice or you will have issues.

($9)2x 120mm fans: Used for the power supply cooling and enclosure

($6)Rocker Switches so that the enclosure fan can be on for PLA, but off for ABS

($15)Dimmable LED lights

($10)8mm LED light connectors


Total:
$250 printer + $452 upgrades/parts + ~$80 PLA/ABS to date

u/Chagrinnish · 1 pointr/DIY

I think the best you could do would be a RAMPS board but they aren't designed to fit onto a Pi so you'd have to run wires between the Pi and RAMPS board. The nice thing, though, is that the Stepstick-style drivers come in a number of varieties, they all offer current limiting, and if you blow one up you can easily replace it.

FYI your stepper motors are referred to as "low inductance" steppers with their 1.65 ohm resistance. They're designed to be able to spin much more quickly than most steppers -- which makes sense I guess because they have that gear reduction attached.

u/minidude140 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I have an Anet A8 with Ramps 1.4 and a BLtouch sensor. I used the Anet A8 Config file and adjusted a few things to enable my BLtouch. This video helped me a lot to understand what each line of code is doing, so I wasn't just assuming everything was right. I do believe I have different stepper drivers though, if I'm not mistaken my drivers are the A4988's that came with this Ramps kit on Amazon.


Edit: Sorry I'm not much help I got mine to work by following countless videos and wikis. Some specific for Anet, some specific for the BLtouch, and some for general Marlin firmware. Then I compared all the above to fit my setup as well as going over my config file many times for reasureence. If this post doesn't make headway try r/aneta8

u/HermosaLuna · 1 pointr/ender3

This is it, correct?

BIQU 3D Printer Part SKR V1.3 32bit Control Board Smoothieboard&Marlin Open Source Compatible with Ramps1.4/1.5/1.6 Support A4988/8825/TMC2208/TMC2100 Drivers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P87J274/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7XgCDbV8GS68K

u/desrtfx · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Actually, the parts are pretty standard, so it doesn't really matter where you buy from.

I bought them from various sources (electronics markets, amazon, and some local shops), so my links are just to be seen as examples:

u/tehPopeExploder · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I'll start with the non-printable mods:

Replaced the PSU with a 750w ATX PSU I had lying around.
If you do this, you will more than likely need to add a power resistor to the 5v rail. I also removed all the original wires and connectors from the PSU and resoldered just what I needed with better rated wire.

Glass bed on top of the aluminum. I just went to Lowes and got them to cut a few pieces of single pane glass.

Mosfet circuit for the heated bed:
https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Power-Module-Expansion-Printer/dp/B01HEQVQAK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493092441&sr=8-1&keywords=3d+printer+mosfet

Upgraded Y Carriage:
https://reprapchampion.com/collections/heated-beds/products/anodized-aluminum-y-carriage-plate-upgrade-v2-for-prusa-i3-reprap-3d-printer

New Belts:
https://reprapchampion.com/collections/linear-motion/products/10-meters-6mm-width-gt2-timing-belt-for-reprap-delta-3d-printer-kossel-rostock

Geared Pulley to replace the smooth one:
https://reprapchampion.com/collections/linear-motion/products/3d-printer-idler-pulley-aluminum-dual-ball-bearing-3mm-bore-16-teeth-gt2-belt

Upgraded Heated Bed, this bed heats up slow and I also lost a little bit of build volume. I plan on getting something better here very soon. Once it's up to temp it works well though.
https://reprapchampion.com/collections/heated-beds/products/new-improved-mk3-aluminum-reprap-3d-printer-prusa-i3-heated-hot-bed-build-plate

Inductive Sensor for auto level:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LWNCY4C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Copper Tape Because the inductive sensor can't see glass I put this on the bottom side.
https://www.amazon.com/Tapes-Master-10ft-Copper-Foil/dp/B00Z8MCJW2/ref=sr_1_6?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1493092625&sr=1-6&keywords=copper+tape

Firmware:
To get the sensor working, you'll have to change the firmware unless you only want to use it as a limit switch. The only option that i'm aware of is Skynet which is based on Marlin and works fairly well. You can find that on their facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/skynet3ddevelopment/

Blue LED Extruder Fan (because the original broke). I don't remember where I got this from. I'd like to find an RGB one! ha

I added a bunch of WS2812 LEDs controlled by an Arduino at the moment, I am using OctoPi so eventually i'll have that control them but at this point they're set to UV colors because it looks cool.


Printed mods:

Frame braces:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1857991
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1430727

Y Carriage Risers:
The Y carriage sits too low and will smack into the Y axis motor so I made these risers to solve that:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2226564

Y Belt Clamp: You'll need one for the new carriage, but I cannot find the one that I used.

Auto level bracket: Though I only have PLA and it kept warping so I made a metal version of it:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2006986

Anti-Z Wobble I modified this but no longer have the file, I also printed a cylinder to wedge into the hole above the lead screws.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1858435

Bearings I used:
https://www.amazon.com/Beerings-Malt-ABEC-Skateboard-Bearings/dp/B005NFXHQG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1493094188&sr=8-2&keywords=beerings

Belt Tentioners I can't remember which ones I finally used.

I think this is everything. If I remember something else i'll post it.


u/chevyfried · 1 pointr/wanhaoi3

I installed this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HEQVQAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_F7zKBbSQY2CMQ

Few months no problems. Heats up very quickly. Provides very steady temps. Hardest part of doing the mod is getting the board to slide out and not snag a wire.

u/dali01 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Sorry.. I fell asleep for a bit..

In the left pane at the top is "connection" where you set the port and baud rate. From other responses it seems the manufacturer screwed you on that though as it only does .gcode files. That is crazy.. I never heard of that as gcode is kind of an industry standard for CNC and 3D printers.

The ramps board is not too bad for most printers I've seen, but you would have to open up your printer controller and look at the plugs to gauge how hard it would be. Go on Amazon and search for "Ramps 3D mega". I got a kit with the RAMPS board, Arduino Mega 2560, 5 a4988 stepper controllers, 5 heatsinks, and a serial cable for $25. For $35 you can get one that includes a display and rotary encoder.something like this and then you just have to flash the firmware of your choice on there.

u/aint_no_fag · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

There are ways to make it cheaper.

A MOSFET (basically a relay that switches the circuit for the heated bed) would be a huge upgrade.

You can flash the firmware of the board with proper security measures in place. Lookup Marlin firmware.

That would be your number one tasks and a huge safety upgrade.

There are lots of tutorials on how to do both.

u/Tjololo · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

For reference, I'm using this kit, upgraded from the original melzi board.

u/BigGreenBlob · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Dang, I'm a little out of the loop... Would you have any suggestions? I did find this one, (cheap, but that's the name of the game right now).

u/Vanced-player · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I got the one on Amazon, this one BIQU Heat Bed Power Module Expansion Hot Bed MOS Tube for 3D Printer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HEQVQAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_XgMDlp1mX2HEn

u/saberToothedCat · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Yeah, I've been researching the most recommended upgrades and the mosfet is on that list. Is this all I would need for that? or are there additional screws/wires I would need as well?

u/Ericr___ · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

This specific item would work right? I'm going to attribute the poor reviews and burnt circuits to user error. And I'll be directly wiring the power connections and avoid using the green connectors. Any kind of risk involving fire is too much of a risk.

https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Power-Module-Expansion-Printer/dp/B01HEQVQAK

u/throwaway_for_keeps · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

https://www.amazon.com/OSOYOO-Printer-Controller-Stepper-Heatsink/dp/B0111ZSS2O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487997525&sr=8-1&keywords=ramps+1.4

I don't know if you need any of those additional parts, but this also has Prime shipping, so you don't need to wait a month for aliexpress shipping.

u/Kristhos · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Yeah, it was a printer i got for a good deal from china. My old board melted and shorted out so I had to get this new one.

Is there a way to enable eeprom on this board? I'm not having much luck finding any article online on how to enable it.

Also, is this everything I would need to convert it to the arduino with ramps? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0111ZSS2O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_ZNj3wbQV2DV9T

u/Branflakes222 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Good to know about the nozzle. I'll probably be grabbing the ones I linked. Or some with at least a couple 4 star reviews if I can find them.

I've heard that you can be fine going with mirror but I'm hoping to print more with more expensive/complicated filaments (PETG) so I want to be safe with higher temps.

Let me tell you, I love me some clones. But I haven't had any trouble with my hotend yet. I always get consistent temps withing +-.3C

I just feel like I can get more for my money by upgrading the bed you know?

The only change I've made to the printer is the vent for the fan, and the addition of this MOSFET for the bed. Never even thought about swapping out the control board. What kind of benefits can that bring?

u/hoppersoft · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

You might consider the one I bought (less expensive) : BIQU MKS-BASE V1.5 Plate Controller Board for 3D Printer Ramps 1.4

u/HelpDesk7 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I would use the original board for a quick replacement, but a great upgrade would be this mks board, it supports additional fans, 12 or 24 volts, dual extrusion, and is only marginally more expensive.

It should be a plug and play replacement for the anet board.

I'd recommend flashing marlin on it as well for either the anet or mks board.

Edit, The only downside is that is doesn't include an sd card slot. Usually the screen that ships with the mks board has the sd card slot. Personally, i either print wirelessly with Octoprint or just plug my laptop in for the print.

u/semperverus · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Sounds good. Any recommendations for specific mosfets?

This one is the first one that pops up.

u/MistakenSanity · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Any thoughts on if this would be okay to use? https://www.amazon.com/OSOYOO-Printer-Controller-Stepper-Heatsink/dp/B0111ZSS2O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491874832&sr=8-1&keywords=ramps+kit

I don't want to get something that might go all sparky sparky poof poof

u/Nibb31 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Yeah, maybe my post wasn't clear.

Printer board is an MKS Gen 1.4: https://reprap.org/wiki/File:MksGenV14-Pinout.png

Mosfet board is one of those cheap things from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Power-Module-Expansion-Printer/dp/B01HEQVQAK

This is a DIY printer that started life as an Anet A8, but now is a mix between an AM8 mod (bed and frame) and a Prusa MK3S clone (extruder), all running Klipper and Octoprint.

Currently this external Mosfet is controlled by D7 (the onboard Mosfet output for the second extruder) and powers the bed. The hotend is on D8 (because its Mosfet is a bit beefier), the extruder fan is on D9 and the print fan is on D10.
Filament sensor and BLTouch are on D10 and D6.

I'd like to use D7 to power an enclosure fan, but to do this I need to control the external Mosfet from a different pin, ideally D4 or D5 (which are marked as "servo" pins on the pinout diagram). I've tried various other pins and combinations with +5V and GND and various resistors in between, but I can't get the Mosfet to switch.

u/ZombieGrot · 1 pointr/arduino

While you can DIY it with some FETS or a monolithic H-bridge, it's much simpler to use a stepper driver. The popularity of 3D printing has produced a gazillion driver daughter boards intended to be plugged into a printer motherboard. There are also stand-alone boards like this one from Pololu or this one from Sparkfun. A dedicated driver board will let you run the stepper at a much higher voltage (to overcome coil inductance) while limiting the current with a chopper so the motor stays happy. Not to mention the addition of microstepping.

u/Raider1284 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I would get the mks base 1.5 then: https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-MKS-BASE-Plate-Controller-Printer/dp/B01FVTQQ2K/ its an all in one board with built in steppers. Would allow you to install the latest marlin firmware and doesnt require external mosfets like the stock melzi board does.

u/ThatOnePerson · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

At the minimum to replace the board, I'd say replace the board with a RAMPS, so either 35$ https://www.amazon.com/OSOYOO-Printer-Controller-Stepper-Heatsink/dp/B0111ZSS2O/ or 30$ if you skip the LCD https://www.amazon.com/Wangdd22-Printer-Controller-Mega2560-Compatible/dp/B01G6ON5H8/ (The maker select LCD doesn't work directly with the RAMPS without some modification)

Then you'll need a dupont crimping tool and some housing to redo some wires. For another 30$. You might be able to get away with using some pliers instead of a crimping tool.

Honestly I'd try seeing if you can get a replacement from wherever you bought it from first.

u/Trevdog18 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I think im going to say scew it how does this ramp clone look?
Alright im thinking of just pulling the trigger on this 1.4 ramp clone. there are 50 reviews of it. https://www.amazon.com/Quimat-Printer-Controller-Arduino-Upgraded/dp/B06XS8G1BB/ref=sr_1_19?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1502651403&sr=1-19-spons&keywords=3d+printer+1.4+ramps&psc=1

u/Argh_computers · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

>Any chance you could be more specific on the dupont connectors required?

You'll need 4 pin dupont housings and dupont female connectors and a crimper for them. That's assuming you have something to strip the wires as well. You can find the dupont female pins and housings cheaper places like aliexpress, ebay, etc.. but I recommend buying a quality crimper instead of whatever is the cheapest you can find as a quality tool will make the job a lot easier. If you're really strapped for cash, there's video's of people crimping dupont connectors with pliers online instead of the crimp tool.

>So <motor><cA> => <cB><cable><cC> => <cD><RAMPS board>

The wires transfer over to the same place from melzi to ramps, and pretty much any board. You'll have a X endstop, y endstop, z endstop, then connectors for the X motor Y motor Z motor and extruder motor, and so on and so forth. A ramps guide will help you visualize what to connect where.

>Any idea how big a cable for the power?

IIRC, the stock wires at 18ga, which is fine for the ramps board since it only draws 5A for all the motors, hotend, etc. The only other larger gauge connectors are for the heatbed, which I believe are also stock 18GA. FWIW, I'd go with a external mosfet instead of using the ramps on board ones which are rated for 11A, which is just within spec of what the bed draws.

u/Pargy · 1 pointr/ender3

This is the one: Color: SKR mini E3 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33042554065.html

You can also get it on Amazon for about $10 more. https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Control-Integrated-TMC2209-Printer/dp/B07YW86YS7/

u/zheke91 · 1 pointr/ender3

Sorry I mean the non-mini SKR 1.3 like this one
WitBot SKR V1.3

u/jrf1234 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Like /u/Bobdor said the Z Offset thing is awesome. Pick up one of these and follow this video to install it. Check out that guy's other videos, too. Next, ditch MatterControl and use Cura instead, it is a much better slicer by Ultimaker that you can download here. It can be more complex to use however. If you need anything just let me know, and remember there are robo3D dedicated forums at community.robo3d.com if you need anything really specific with the printer, but this sub is a great place for advice!

u/schorsch3000 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

there are boards like these (not a specific choose, just the first i've found) which seems to be just an mega ans a ramps board on a single board. What are the advantages disadvantages of those over a ramps and arduino?

u/Acid44 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Power outage during flashing killed my A8 board, would this work as a replacement?

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B072B9PQDM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Pfn7AbK364CK5

u/dirtsky1028 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Oh yeah most definitely. Here is a link to the RAMPS kit that I bought and Here is a link to the E3D clone I bought. For this clone to work I printed an insert for the heatsink.

u/jon012198 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

so i put marlin firmware on it that was from a Facebook group for my printer and it screen was fuzzie no text at all on it i have this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0111ZSS2O

u/DatWaggo · 1 pointr/AnetA8

PSU: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Fused Switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Mosfet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The PSU has a built-in fan that kicks on and off when the PSU gets warm. I don't plan on printing things with any crazy high temperatures, so these upgrades were probably a bit overkill, but I'd rather have components that are a bit more trustworthy than what comes with a $150 kit.

u/jpcapone · 1 pointr/AnetA8

I ordered an A8 and I get it this Sunday. Can you give me some more detail on the 4 things you suggest upgrading?

I looked at flashing the Marlin but do I need any extra cabling to perform the flash?

Do either of these fill the prereqs for the upgrades you mention? I ordered them as they came in a package deal with the printer.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Which power supply should I order? Did I forget to mention anything? I am trying to make sure I buy all of the stuff so I am ready to build on Sunday. I am gonna get a Raspberry Pi 3 for Octoprint as I only currently have a zero W and a Pi 4 available for use.

u/jj7753 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I bought the Maker Select V2 a few weeks ago, so I'll give you a dump of what I've bought so far:

MOSFET - You'll also need some 14 gauge wire, spade connectors, and something (like velcro) to mount it inside the case.

PEI Sheet - After going through tape/hairspray/glue this is what you'll end up wishing you started with. I bought some standard window glass from a big box store and had them cut it to size. I used the thermal pads at first, but I prefer just clipping it on. This way I can have 4 different glass beds to swap among.

Raspberry Pi 3 - OctoPrint is so much nicer than transferring the sd card back and forth.

Fan - DiiCooler or CiiCooler or a few others you can print out that are compatible with this fan (I think, I haven't finished printing them yet).

Y carriage plate - Not sure what the difference between this and yours is - I haven't installed mine yet).

MicroSwiss

Also ordered a couple rolls of Inand PLA from MicroCenter online.


u/daniel871 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Why do that when Amazon Prime has it?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK

This is the one I use on my Monoprice i3.

u/sharpie15 · 1 pointr/dbotcorexy

Yes But only 1 motor Turns if I swap the pins on the control board then then that one moves and not the other.

Yes.

Control Board

u/blagazenega · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Would you say that something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G20IZBS/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 combined with something like this: http://openbuildspartstore.com/linear-rail/ would be a viable solution?

I have been doing some research in preparation for my build and after looking at some kits, I figured that if I get the kit, I might go all out. I have not figured out the extrude part of the project. But getting the electronics kit with whole bunch of parts from Openbuilds should take care of the basics.

u/PuterPro · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Hi All!
Just ran into this while doing a search. I got a v2.1 for Xmas as well.

Have fought many battles, won't go into it here, you'd be reading for hours, LOL!
But I did install the MOSFET upgrade, as well as installing a 300W power supply. One's a safety issue, the other is so I can safely run a higher temp hotend with elevated bed temps. The 200W unit they used is marginal at best (trust me, I'm an Electronics Tech for 47 years...).

Here's the MOSFET board I used:
BIQU Heat Bed Power Module Expansion Hot Bed MOS Tube for 3D Printer (About $11)
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and the Power Supply: eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Radio, Computer Project ($18 - $20, varies)
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also got some cork sheets to put under the hot bed at Michael's called ArtWall Cork Tiles 12:x 12" - used the App and got 40% off cost less then $5! I used some 3M adhesive (468MP) strips stolen from a sheet I got when I bought a Gizmodorks PEI sheet I put on a glass plate stolen from an old Canon scanner that was toast. :-) Recycling ...LOL! Nice thing was it's DEAD flat, and FREE!

Well that's all for now. Any Questions will be answered next time I drop by Reddit (which is pretty infrequently, sorry!).

PuterPro

u/Meanee · 1 pointr/ender3

I picked up these from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FFFYVV8/ and set my configuration.h to #define E0_DRIVER_TYPE A4988 and also for X, Y and Z. Those steppers work fine. I doubt this is an overheating issue, since I have heat sinks and this happens in the beginning of the print. And also no loose wires.

u/Jsjdhagyyoqpqkdn · 1 pointr/FixMyPrint

I am also using a V6 hotend. Probably wont have to change your PID values.

I went with:
MKS Gen 1.4 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072ZZ3YQW

Stepper Motor Driver x 5 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FFFYVV8

u/codewolf · 1 pointr/Ask3D
  • If you have an attached SD card reader you do not need to have the printer attached to the computer. The SD card reader for my kit printer (a Folger Tech i3) was on an LCD screen I purchased from Amazon for about $15.
  • When connected to the computer you can monitor the print status in 3D visually (you can use the LCD as a status as well). The program to run the print does not take up much noticeable resources.
  • As I mentioned, I put mine together from a kit. There was very little soldering, a lot of screws, and connecting some wires to the controller board. It was not hard but the directions, although good, were not perfect. All of the screws were in one bunch, so separating them out to the right size was tedious. An Allen wrench set, needle nose pliers, a caliper, and a soldering iron were needed. Since some of the printer parts were also 3D printed, some needed some minor adjustments with a Dremel tool. You could handle the soldering - it was very easy and only two wires if I recall correctly. You are not soldering a circuit board. Overall the kit build was not difficult, just time consuming.
  • I have been using the printer in a basement workshop and not noticed any fumes. If you are concerned, you can use PLA filament which may be overall a safer choice than ABS filament. Do your own research here.
u/kellyrx8 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

no problem! it was the first Mod I did on mine after reading that the bed heat connection is the issue with all the burnups.

good write up on the fix

https://3dprinterwiki.info/heatbed-terminal-burning-fix-with-mosfet-board/


here is the one I got for my maker select v2.1
https://www.amazon.com/d/3D-Printer-Controllers/BIQU-Power-Module-Expansion-Printer/B01HEQVQAK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549832603&sr=8-3&keywords=maker+select+mosfet

might need longer wire, i did, just grabbed some at Lowes

u/grundelstiltskin · 1 pointr/Reprap

Just get a Ramps kit from Amazon and start from scratch. As long as you have the delta configuration for the firmware, it will be easy to adapt the firmware. Cant vouch for the brand, I've I gotten many over the years and most have been ok but if you have a heated bed make sure to use an external ssr, not the onboard mosfet.

u/ArchieHicox · 1 pointr/Reprap

I just built my i2 I've had laying around and ordered some cheap electronics kit off amazon, This one. I'm using a 12v 30 power supply off amazon as well. I configure marlin and after messing with the endstops finally I get the motors to move. next onto the thermistors. both the bed and the extruder are working and reading 25c at room temp as long as the 12v power supply is turned off. as soon as I turn it on the extruder goes to 0c and the bed remains at 25c. I tested the thermistor and im getting ~99-98k ohms at around 25c room temp. I also went into marlin and changed the temp pins for the extruder from t0 to t2 in the ramps_pin.h script. same result.

Do I have a bad ramps/Mega? or has anyone seen this problem before? am I missing somthing in the firmware that might fix this or should I buy a less cheap ramps and mega?
Thanks

u/Wapiti-eater · 1 pointr/AnetA8

Knowing this type of event was probable with the stock Anet board, I pre-emptively replaced mine with a MKS Gen L 1.4

Yea, took a bit of reading 'n effort to get it going, but in one evening she was up and running.

Board and drivers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0756T3F57

Display, controler
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076WQQX5K

u/wamceachern · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Well you can ask if they will take the melzi board and replace. You can go to wanhao site and under replacement they sell melzi board plug and play for $108 but you will have the bad melty connectors again.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0111ZSS2O/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479852532&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65

Doing this you can even update to the bltouch and have auto bed leveling.

u/ABrokenPoet · 1 pointr/lasercutting

I would recommend the below laser, it works as described. Having a separate control module seems to be something of a personal preference based on the project, I mounted it on the X-Axis carriage above the laser.
2.5W Laser Module

I'm very happy with the below MKS-Base V1.6 (?!?) controller board. Apart from having to replace all of the Solidoodle connectors with JST-XH connectors it has been very easy to work with. There are a bunch of comments about various polarities being reversed, but I haven't seen it yet. I have not hooked up the LCD yet, which is one of the wiring concerns mentioned in the Amazon reviews.
MKS Base v1.6 Controller Board

This crimper is the bomb! I debated this unit (~$17) vs the PA-09 (~$40), and am extremely happy with my choice. The lack of reviews on this one made me a bit skittish, but I have another IWISS crimper that works well and I went with the brand recognition (and it's cheaper.)
IWISS Crimper Tool

u/warbunnies · 0 pointsr/Reprap