Best 3d printing supplies according to redditors

We found 1,148 Reddit comments discussing the best 3d printing supplies. We ranked the 480 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Subcategories:

3D printing filaments
3D printing granules
3D printing liquid

Top Reddit comments about 3D Printing Supplies:

u/GoldXD · 66 pointsr/3Dprinting

 

Thingiverse

 

Prusa Multi-Material!

We're having a LAN party so...I decided to cut up an existing heartstone model from thingiverse for multi-material.

I'll upload the model to thingiverse later today for my fellow nerds/geeks.

 

Images

 

Print time: 35hrs

Detail: .15mm

Filament:

Stone

Blue

 

The stone filament worked, surprisingly, great with the multi-material. Multi-material is insanely picky about filament quality so I'm pretty happy with the outcome. The first print I tried had some bleeding with the blue, so I increased the wipe tower a bit, which solved the issue.

After months of fighting with the MMU, I think I've finally got it tuned in...knocks on wood.

u/Traegs_ · 33 pointsr/tumblr

What exactly are you asking?

The price of the filament is $32 for a spool of 1kg.

If you're asking how much it would cost for a company to print it for you, that would depend a lot on the company.

u/hallen1324 · 29 pointsr/3Dprinting
u/umamiking · 24 pointsr/3Dprinting

I appreciate the heads up on the deal but just a little bit more effort would save everyone so much time. On mobile it's a ridiculous exercise to open a tab and swap back and forth between the image as you manually type in the coupon code. And that's if you find the right product. I tried searching for it manually and thought I located the right filament but the coupon code wouldn't work. Even switching to a desktop requires manually typing it and of course both the url and the code have zero's and oh's.

Here's the product link

Here's the coupon code: 4NO6Q4Z4

u/TrevT2 · 20 pointsr/3Dprinting

Nope, just used Golden filament

Silk Gold 3D Printer PLA Filament... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRPYXP2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/nerys71 · 18 pointsr/3Dprinting

SILK PLA is amazing. it DOES have serious issues. the stuff is crazy strong but very very poorly sticks to itself (brittle layer adhesion) Print it hot 220c higher if the plastic behaves for you.

so thin parts? forget it. your not likely to get it off the bed without cracking it (use ultra base)

and even 3 perimeter 25% infill grid parts can "snap" if the nozzles catches an edge (broke my adalinda dragon a few times) and if you drop it it will break.

BUT the results are simply stunning.

Here are some links (gold is not in stock that I can find right now) these are direct non affiliate links. if you want to help me out goto todays3dprint.com and use any of the links their (and then these links) but you don't have to.

Silver (I have not tried this one but they all print the same)

https://www.amazon.com/Silk-Silver-Filament-Printing-Material/dp/B06XSBFB17

Copper
https://www.amazon.com/Silk-Copper-Filament-Printing-Material/dp/B0761PMW3X

if this one was prime I would be ordering one as it looks VERY nice.

These from 3d Solutech are dirt cheap and some of my favorites! I have printed with all of them except the lavendar. I have it just have not used it yet in a print.

They call them "ultra pla"

Yellow

https://www.amazon.com/3D-Solutech-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B01B5KACX8

sample print Drogon

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ImOW0N1LNSA

Blue (my favorite)

https://www.amazon.com/3D-Solutech-3DSUPLA175BLU

Sample Print Adalinda (75 hour print truly stunning)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZV0LTx-MlY&t

Green (out of stock right now)

https://www.amazon.com/3D-Solutech-3DSUPLA175GRN-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B01B5KPNUK

Sample Print. Aria Dragon (another truly stunning model)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3g-5oyVsyRA

White

https://www.amazon.com/3D-Solutech-3DSUPLA175WHT-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B01B5KFRHO

Sample Print (Loubie Swan)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DOavv-K-mYw

Red (really pink I have yet to find a true RED silk they all come out pink)

https://www.amazon.com/3D-Solutech-3DSUPLA175HPK-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B01B5LIL58

Sample Print (faceted Tree)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZbuFM0UUo2c&t=100s

Here is the GOLD I used (sample print squirrel)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DOavv-K-mYw&t=420s

but its not available right now (not sure if it is coming back or not)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XRPYXP2

again. its a PAIN IN THE ASS filament but damn are the results incredible. worth the suffering :-)

again the links are "clear" direct links. if you want to help me visit one of the links to amazon in my videos first which will help me out. or use the direct links here if not.

in general search for "ultra" or "silk" PLA.

Poly Alchemy ALSO makes some disgustingly gorgeous SILK PLA's !! check out Night Shade and Night Sky in particular to be truly awestruck with the beauty of these filaments

Here are some higher resolution images of some of these filaments

Poly Alchemy Night Shade (stunning and dark)
https://i.imgur.com/tyMb4Xn.jpg Another
https://i.imgur.com/fphprtA.jpg

Poly Alchemy Night Sky (I love this one)
https://i.imgur.com/BWv59dv.jpg Another
https://i.imgur.com/9zz93el.jpg

Poly Alchemy Bubble Gum
https://i.imgur.com/6WyaMIY.jpg

Elixr is NOT CHEAP $30 for 750 grams or something like that. (its around $50 a kilo)

in the US Printedsolid.com sells it.

3D Solutech Ultra Green
https://i.imgur.com/5n7nQZx.jpg

As you might be able to tell I REALLY like these plastics :-)

u/Krieger_FPV · 18 pointsr/3Dprinting

EDIT: HIGH RES ALBUM HERE - https://m.imgur.com/a/CxDxI7d

GIF here: https://giphy.com/gifs/3dprint-U5JfGDUzxcIf1UURwx


This was printed on my Ender 3 pro at .16 mm layer height.

The model is the T-Rex skull from MakerBot: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:308335

The filament used is Silk Gold PLA from CC3D: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRPYXP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QFsCDbK11H8N8

u/meta_perspective · 18 pointsr/shittykickstarters

>On Amazon I can buy an electric toothbrush for $40 and an Echo Dot with Alexa for $50. So for $90 I can get the equivalent to Wavee's "electric smart toothbrush speaker" for which they're charging $279.99 ("suggested retail").

I'm willing to bet you can also buy a decent 3D printer kit with included filament/resin, print a case for your Blue-thbrush Frankenstein's monster, and still be under $280.

Edit: yep.

u/Vvanderfell · 17 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Some more details here :

These are just concept boards I'm making, nothing too serious. They're powered by Teensy 3.2s, have Kailh White Box switches (with temporary caps), and the sticks on the corners are 3DS XL (I believe) joysticks.

The purpose of the joysticks was to have some analog controls, and be able to change their functionality while in use. From mouse, to controller, to more niche functions like quick highlighting, or whatever else I can come up with. Suggestions would be appreciated!

The case isn't anything too special. It's "Marble" PLA, and it has a bunch of holes in it for the purpose of being able to switch wrist rests, or potentially hard mount them to a chair or something similar. The key caps aren't in any particular configuration. I just put on what I had to fit the profiles I wanted, so the outliers are basically random.

If you have any questions or suggestions, let me know! This is just a test / proof of concept, so I'd love to heard your ideas.

EDIT: Adding some more details.

u/joshthehappy · 15 pointsr/3Dprinting

Same deal with their wood pla: Amazon link

Edit: looks like you can only use one coupon, I already purchased the white then tried this one and the coupon didn't take the 50% off at checkout.

New Edit: Thanks to u/Specte I tried again and it worked, must have been a glitch at Amazon the first few times I tried.

u/screwyluie · 14 pointsr/3Dprinting

https://smile.amazon.com/ZIRO-Printer-Filament-1-75mm-Marble/dp/B01IIAC2MW/

The picture has a label, Ziro... so it's Ziro Marble Filament. Bit of a misnomer though because it's actually more of a peppered plastic than it is marble. Looks cool though

u/guycobb2 · 14 pointsr/3Dprinting

Stronghero3D 3D Printing PLA Filament New Rainbow Multicolor 1.75mm Net Weight 1KG Accuracy +/-0.05mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FCQ9WDJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Wj83BbX4RGPCJ

u/welshhomebrew · 13 pointsr/3Dprinting

It was this from amazon!

u/jpd73 · 9 pointsr/3Dprinting

So creating this took a bit of practice and patience. Basically, I built the 3d model from scratch using a software called fusion 360. Once I got the model built I used Simplify 3d to get the printing parameters set (layer hight, print speed, nozzle/bed temp etc...)

You then send that file directly to the printer for printing. I’m using a JG Aurora A5s which is a relatively cheap intro printer. I loaded it up with some wood PLA filament (amazon link for reference: HATCHBOX 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03mm, 1.75 mm, 1 kg Spool, Wood https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01092XXD4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3AulDbTCWTM9X).

I’m not sure exactly how this filament is made but it seems like a mixture of saw dust and plastic that functions almost exactly like the normal PLA plastic most 3d printers use.

Anyways, once the print is done. (This took about 4-5hrs) you can sand it down and polish out any imperfections the printer may have left. And also being wood, it will absorb any type of wood stain.

You can still see some layer lines but if I adjust the layer hight and put more effort into sanding, then those would be a lot less noticeable.

Hope this helps!

u/riskable · 8 pointsr/3Dprinting

Link to the thing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2173745

Filament: https://www.amazon.com/Filament-Silk-Gold-Printing-Material/dp/B06XRPYXP2

If you haven't printed one yet you must! It's the best 3D model to use as your first print. Maybe the best 3D model ever! I know this because I'm the world's foremost expert on the Low-Poly Rose Twist Vase (<serious voice> <important-looking nod>) :D

BTW: I have no affiliation with that filament manufacturer. I do love that stuff though (gone through five spools of it now I think)! The silver is pretty good too.

u/The_Royal · 7 pointsr/3Dprinting

It’s ZIRO “Marble Color” PLA from Amazon! ($21.00)

Awesome Filament. Hides Layer Lines Incredibly Well.

It’s as smooth as normal PLA, just looks textured from the speckles.

This was printed at .2mm on my Ender 3. One of my Favorite Materials And Prints to date!

u/MormonMoron · 7 pointsr/latterdaysaints

In the comments from the link he said he used this gold filament:

https://www.amazon.com/Filament-Printing-Material-CC3D-Metallic/dp/B06XRPYXP2?th=1

u/Aliengray1 · 7 pointsr/3Dprinting

Yeah, I was actually surprised at how good the color turned out. Here’s what I used:

Silk Gold 3D Printer PLA Filament 1.75 mm 1 KG (2.2 LBS) Spool 3D Printing Material CC3D Shine Silky Shiny PLA Metal Gold Like Metallic PLA Filament

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRPYXP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NAHPCbR59STKJ

u/moon-worshiper · 6 pointsr/3Dprinting

Metal Squin Mesh Fabric, very complicated manufacturing process
https://www.amazon.com/Pukido-50x42cm-Metallic-Sequined-Decoration/dp/B07MM4X41H/ref=sr_1_25?keywords=Creativesugar&qid=1562090301&s=gateway&sr=8-25

There are several people on this sub 3D printing on to fabric. Something similar to this might be possible, 1 mm by 1 mm by 0.5mm cubes separated by 0.2mm, using gold 3D printing filament on the underlying cloth.
https://www.amazon.com/Filament-Silk-Gold-Printing-Material/dp/B06XRPYXP2

u/JustASmallCreator · 6 pointsr/3Dprinting

I'm sure you're covering all bases, but I'd like to recommend this Non-Affiliated Link carbon fiber impregnated poly-carbonate filament.

I print it very hot with very minimal cooling and a hot bed. When it fuses, it's almost impossible to damage significantly with a hammer.

u/Plocktic · 6 pointsr/3Dprinting

Mika3D Silk PLA Bundle

This is what I believe OP has but I could be wrong. I recently ordered it and it prints great.

u/SnazzyGai · 6 pointsr/ender3

Yes of course :)

Black PLA:
• HATCHBOX PLA 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 1 kg Spool, 1.75 mm, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J0ECR5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-Nn0Db9E2TV4N
•OVERTURE PLA Filament 1.75mm with 3D Build Surface 200mm × 200mm 3D Printer Consumables, 1kg Spool (2.2lbs), Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.05 mm, Fit Most FDM Printer, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PGY2JP1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yPn0DbA5MFBZS


White PLA:
•HATCHBOX PLA 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 1 kg Spool, 1.75 mm, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J0GMMP6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IOn0Db4BZ8QWH
•OVERTURE PLA Filament 1.75mm with 3D Build Surface 200mm × 200mm 3D Printer Consumables, 1kg Spool (2.2lbs), Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.05 mm, Fit Most FDM Printer, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PGZNM34/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LRn0Db62EBRN2

u/Fatman6000 · 5 pointsr/3Dprinting
u/zembacraftworks · 5 pointsr/3Dprinting

Apparently Hatchbox Wood Fill has gone up in price...that was going to be my recommendation.

Otherwise:

Marble PLA

Glow in the Dark PLA

Bronze PLA

u/thebeetis · 5 pointsr/3Dprinting

Marble PLA is just light gray PLA that has tiny bits of black PLA added to make it look like marble. I've used this one in the past with good results:
https://www.amazon.com/ZIRO-Printer-Filament-1-75mm-Marble/dp/B01IIAC2MW

u/RavenCW · 5 pointsr/starcitizen

Looks like it's painted. If you zoom in you can see the engine intakes and the missile bay on the back are white. There is gold filament that looks pretty nice though.

https://www.amazon.com/Filament-Silk-Gold-Printing-Material/dp/B06XRPYXP2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=gold+filament&qid=1559185928&s=gateway&sr=8-3

u/secretninja456 · 5 pointsr/3Dprinting

Silk Gold 3D Printer PLA Filament... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRPYXP2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share this stuff is pretty good but make sure you use it right or you will end up like me...

u/techknight_ · 5 pointsr/3Dprinting

A few weeks ago, u/mrdead113 posted an amazing vase design, printed in a silk gold PLA: https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/ane711/monochromatic_vase_in_gold_silk/

​

It looked so good that I bought some silk gold PLA too (a different brand: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06XRPYXP2/) and printed the same vase design at 440mm tall on my MakerBot Z18.

​

(Note: I don't recommend MakerBot devices, it's just the biggest printer I have)

u/chapunicus · 5 pointsr/ender3

Thanks and here you go!
3D Printer Silk Rainbow... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PYDNQXS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/Rice062 · 4 pointsr/3Dprinting

Hey everyone!

Was curious if anyone can help me out with this.

It’s an Ender 3 Pro using the Hatchbox wood filament.

Anything small prints fine. Usually good for 2-3 hours no issues.

Anything 4+ hours I come back to a jammed extruded several inches above the print with nothing comes out.




Filament: HATCHBOX 3D Printer Filament,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01092XXD4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/Hit-Enter-Too-Soon · 4 pointsr/PrintedMinis

I recently printed one in this wood filament, which is stainable, and it looked pretty good plain, but fantastic once I stained it. If you have any layer lines, they tend to look like wood grain once you stain it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01092XXD4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That said, it seems to have left bits behind in the nozzle, so the white I switched to afterwards kept having little brown bits for a while.

I've really been considering this "marble" PLA, though, because I want to print up the same character as a double size figure and give him a kind of "statue" look.

https://www.amazon.com/AMOLEN-3D-Printer-Filament-Marble-Color-1-75mm-PLA-Filament-Sample-Silk-Bronze-Filament/dp/B072QZL854

Grey worked well, as u/Snownova said. Black, not so much. Any place where a support was hesitant to come off gets really visible when it's unpainted, and the characters are somehow shiny in a bad way.

u/ksp3ll · 4 pointsr/ender3

I used this one, a few reviews mentioned having trouble with it jamming and such. I printed it hotter than normal (220c) which is maybe why I didn't have any problems.

u/3Dadict · 4 pointsr/3Dprinting

This is a model I found and printed for a friend with this new gold filament that I purchased it came out really well aside from the fact that I printed at .2 layers and not .1 or lower layers like I meant to.

Ganesh 3D scan found on #Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2545113

Here is the filament I forgot to share it
3D Printer Filament PLA 1.75 mm Silk Gold 1 KG ( 2.2 LBS ) Spool 3D PLA Printing Material https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRPYXP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gsVIAbA6ZHJ43

u/GoodJobDog · 4 pointsr/KGATLW

Thingiverse Source: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3815748

Printed on an Ender 3 using Silk Gold PLA and placed on a box above an oil diffuser.
^^^^^^^^PHXtourPlz

u/oldcrow · 4 pointsr/3Dprinting

I haven't tried it myself, but this Gold Silk PLA has gotten good reviews and I've seen people post some really beautiful prints made with it.

u/shotonce · 4 pointsr/3Dprinting

Got it as part of a metallic 3 pack (gold, silver & copper) on Amazon.

u/raekle · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting
u/labathen · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

Walmart Sells some as well that is in the $15 a spool range. With ship to store its just as good price wise as Microcenter. I actually have some of this filament on order but have not tested it yet myself.

Amazon carries some as well that is in that price range and is Prime eligible. I have used this filament and it is consistent in the 3 rolls I have owned.

With that said, if you do have a Microcenter locally, like /u/joshc4566 reports the Inland brand filament is also in that approximately $15 a spool price range and has been very good to me personally.

u/ender32708 · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

I use a hotend cleaner when I switch filaments, it works very well with removing old particles.

eSUN 3D Printer CLEANING Filament... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVIYNFW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/isanyonekeepingtrack · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

I highly doubt it's the SD card. If it was the SD card the printer would likely just simply stop instead of continuing to move without extruding. It could be a settings issue, something you changed and forgot to set back though.

Is the extruder motor still moving, or in your case likely grinding away bits of the filament? That's an important question.

Did you make sure to get all the PLA out before going to PET-G and vice versa? If you plan to do filament type changes on a regular basis you should pick up something like eSUN's cleaning filament. It has a really wide temperature range (150C to 260C) which means it's good for making sure you've got all your previous filament type out.

u/crua9 · 3 pointsr/prusa3d

So here is what you can do.

​

  1. Check the side door on the extruder. Make sure it isn't too tight or lose. If you don't know how to check, then please let us know.
  2. Check the filament. Basically, check to see if it has too much water in it or if the size is all over. Even if you're getting normal looking walls, if there is too much water this will require higher temp to work. If the filament is pretty new, then you don't have to worry about water being a problem.
  3. Check if there is a clog. You can do the normal atomic pull stuff, or you can use cleaning filaments like the following. With pretty much any type of cleaning filament, you need to keep an eye out on when it's coming out of the nozzle. It's clear for a few seconds before it gets cold. If there is stuff inside then you will see it within the clear coming out. https://www.amazon.com/eSUN-CLEANING-Filament-Printers-Cleaning/dp/B00MVIYNFW/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=cleaning+filament&qid=1555863155&s=gateway&sr=8-3 (NOTE there is a few different brands. Pick whichever you trust. There could be a wide gap in price. But you only need 1 of them since you will hardly ever use it. I bought mine a good year ago and maybe only used 10% of it.)
  4. Check for this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dSPPrb0J8CY&feature=youtu.be (I'm thinking this might be your problem, but everything above is far easier to deal with)
u/Rajkalex · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

It's PLA with wood fibers that give it a wood like appearance. It's a bit messier to print with because it can gum up the hotend (in my experience) but it can look really nice.

Link

u/Moonrak3r · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

Thanks! It’s Hatchbox Wood PLA. I would’ve preferred a darker color but this was the only one in stock and I’m not a patient man...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01092XXD4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_I0n0CbFH4KKNR

u/Bletotum · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

My own shoutouts:

Hatchbox Wood: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01092XXD4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This sands easier than any classic plastic filament, after which you'd swear someone whittled the wood themselves. After stain, it's my very favorite thing to use. It's abominably stringy if you use anything smaller than 0.15mm layers, but that really doesn't matter since you're gonna sand it anyway.

Photos: https://imgur.com/a/wDIbPRq

CCTree Marble: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CVJJB9Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This prints like butter, but I've been unable to stop it from stringing. It's easier to sand than other non-wood filaments I've tried though. I like the appearance, which seems to naturally hide subtle layer lines like the wood does.

Photos: https://imgur.com/a/R23qBsw

Special mention to Prusament: the very least stringing I've seen among the few filaments I've tried, but I don't buy it because it's expensive in the USA and because the fumes make my eyes hurt while doing squeaky noises in the extruder. Weird.

Photo: https://i.imgur.com/bNYNJYj.png

u/scrotumpole13 · 3 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Just printed this wood PLA succulent pot earlier today!

Edit: In no way has this damaged my printer. In fact, some of my best quality prints are using this filament.

Edit 2: Just to be clear, it was using this filament

u/nonfish · 3 pointsr/functionalprint

The material is MG Chemical's Wood filament. The files are on Thingiverse here

u/Flubberkoekje · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

I've been wanting to try this 'marble' filament for a while,
Looks pretty cool.

https://www.amazon.com/ZIRO-Printer-Filament-1-75mm-Marble/dp/B01IIAC2MW/

It's just PLA but that doesn't make it less exciting.
Not too expensive either.

u/viriss · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

This is using the Ziro marble filament.

It took about 10 hours.

Model of the original at the Minneapolis Art Institute

u/SilentHopes · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

Some random brand on Amazon.

u/relmicro · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

I just saw some people print with CC3D Silk Gold that looked freakin amazing.

Best I’ve used so far is Amazon Basics Wood, but the CC3D Silk Metal series is on my to-do list.

u/bogglingsnog · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

Try Gold filament :)

example

u/Tenthrow · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

This is the stuff I used.

Definitely one of my favorites!

3D Printer Filament PLA 1.75 mm Silk Gold 1 KG (2.2 LBS) Spool 3D PLA Printing Material Silky Shiny PLA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRPYXP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tL62BbK8MP47B

u/regularguy9074 · 3 pointsr/ender3

I've had excelent results with this filament from Tianse - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y47VXY2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I used a .4 nozzle and ran it at 210C/50

u/Triskite · 3 pointsr/Tools

Thx for the suggestion. I haven't had time to experiment with many specialty filaments in the last couple years but want to use the strongest I can. Got a brass nozzle atm on a rep2 no hbp. Other constraints: poor humidity control (workshop is the front of our skoolie) & lack of good ventilation. Prefer filaments that can do 230-240C
This looks OK aside from the moisture retention:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074DS3986/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TS0BDbE1553VW
lmk if you have a better option. Really like that petg can be recycled

u/Dutchswaggimous · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting
u/hcurmudgeon · 3 pointsr/functionalprint

Perhaps this with a bit of dry brushed paint for tinting?

https://amazon.com/Silk-Copper-Filament-Printing-Materia/dp/B0761PMW3X

u/man_on_a_screen · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

CC3D has amazing copper and gold (don’t bother with the silver). Silk Copper PLA 3D Printer Filament 1.75 mm 1KG 2.2LBS Spool 3D Printing Material CC3D Shine Silky Shiny Metallic Metal Red Purple Copper PLA Filament https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0761PMW3X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eRrBDbSCBP7H5

u/leohnaran · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FCQ9WDJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

But last week there was double stacking coupons that made it $5.59 before tax. It was great for the the $5.59 I would of been disappointed had I paid the for $28. I looked for the original post where someone generously called out the super cheap price, but my search skills are apparently not good.

u/Omygodc · 3 pointsr/mpminidelta

It is PLA from Amazon.
Copper/Gold/Silver PLA

u/Rodrii_Cat_Farts · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Yup, just your standard hatchbox glow in the dark PLA filament. From amazon

u/SANKMP · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I printed mine in PLA too but use ABS for most projects and thus tried it with my PLA print too, and it worked great. I have not had much luck with other adhesives. Make sure you sand the ball joints to they are smooth, otherwise they may split the next “knuckle”. I had good luck with using wool clamps to keep them together during the adhesive drying.

u/WeazelBear · 2 pointsr/Knoxville

I don't have any transparent filament, but if you want to pay $20, I can buy this (it's 19.65 after tax) and print it. Otherwise, I'll print it for free. I have blue, orange, and white already.

u/vietquocnguyen · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

3D Solutech Natural Clear 1.75 mm 3D Printer PLA Filament 2.2 LBS (1.0KG) - 100% USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MB3CV6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KA5KybXTCRJ3E

u/spaz1020 · 2 pointsr/PrintedMinis

this stuff

Haven't had any problems with it so far.

u/Trevdog18 · 2 pointsr/ender3
u/Tothas · 2 pointsr/ender3

Those couplers are trash and so is the PTFE tube they sent. They may work for a while but you'll want to swap them sooner rather than later. Here's a list of upgrades you'll probably want to do. You'll also want to look up a tutorial on how to upgrade your firmware so you can activate safety features (thermal runaway protection specifically). This also doesn't include a BLTouch or EZABL (auto bed levelers) as I have yet to make a choice personally.

Couplers and Tube:
SIQUK 3 Pieces Teflon Tube PTFE... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FPJHRTQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Metal Extruder: ( original plastic one will wear out or break)
Ender 3 Creality 3D Upgrade... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KSS8FRQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Bed Springs: (more than needed but oh well)
SIQUK 16 Pieces Heated Bed... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K9PBML5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Glass Bed: (goes on top of print bed which is usually warped, printing on an uneven surface not so bueno)
Creality Upgraded 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DS2LZF1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Raspberry Pi 3B+ for OctoPrint: (still need microsd card for it I believe)
CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 B+ (B... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BC6WH7V?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Stepper Motor Dampers: (silences the motors, no more sounding like dial up internet lol will need to print mounts from thingiverse)
Upgraded NEMA 17 Stepper Steel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DNT72SF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Heat Sinks For Stepper Motors: (once stepper motors have dampers and aren't attached to the metal frame, they can get a little hot)
40mmx40mmx10mm Black Radiator... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KWVGGGK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Hot end silicone sleeve: (may not need, mine came with one instead of the old insulation)
Creality Original 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HNXJ39T?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Extra Filament: (ender 3 only comes with a small sample "spool", this is just a brand I use and have had decent results with. The metallic silver hue shows off detail well)
3D Printer PLA Filament 1.75MM... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME7YUIU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/ZombieGrot · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Since TPU is so soft, it's possible that the effective diameter of the feed gear is reduced. From your comment, you seem to have already bumped up the flow but maybe more is necessary.

When you changed over from your regular filament (PLA?) did you run some cleaning filament through the nozzle? Another side effect of TPU being so soft is that it tends to flow around remaining bits of filament rather than pushing them out the nozzle. Cleaning filament (one example) has a wide temperature range, is soft and sticky, and has a large die swell.

u/pyr0ball · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

If your prints have become crap but no real changes in settings, you might have a clogged nozzle or a slipping PTFE tube.

Grab some nozzle cleaning filament and shove a few inches of that through your nozzle (while it's hot if course) and see if that improves anything. If you still have issues, you may need to disassemble your hotend and look for issues. If the PTFE tube has started slipping, you'll have a large pool of melted filament just above the nozzle and below the tube you'll have to clear out

u/edge231 · 2 pointsr/prusa3d

Before you buy a new nozzle, have you tried cleaning filament yet?

eSUN 3D Printer CLEANING Filament 1.75mm Natural 0.1kg for all 1.75mm FDM 3D Printers, 1.75mm Cleaning https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVIYNFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NetQBbX0VWR7E

This may help you get the gunk out of that nozzle. Run that thru it and do some cold pulls with it. It may revitalize your nozzle for a lot cheaper and you wouldn’t have to take apart your extruder to do it.

u/elektrikeye · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

You might have partially cleared the jam, but left a layer of plastic still inside the nozzle. I know I was surprised at just how much plastic stayed in the nozzle even after repeated cleaning in acetone.

If you're really adverse to taking it apart, there are also these cleaning tools:
I haven't tried them, but they are an option.

Cleaning Bits
https://www.amazon.com/JOYSA-MakerBot-Printer-Cleaning-Registered/dp/B01CCF46EQ/

Cleaning filament
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVIYNFW/

I use the plastic from monoprice and it's reasonably good, I wouldn't be able to speak about the quality of the stuff you have.
http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=107&cp_id=10724&cs_id=1072402&p_id=10552&seq=1&format=2

Another way I can tell mine is flowing properly is by heating it up to 200 and using the manual extrude option on the move menu. Clogged nozzles will look stringy and/or the filament will curl up. When it's extruding properly, the plastic will drop straight down and have an even consistency. When you forced the filament through, it will melt and pass through, but won't necessarily clean off the old crud stuck to the walls of the nozzle.

You're very welcome for the limited insight I have on this topic. I saw your post and said, that was me a couple weeks ago, and it was a lot of trial and error to figure out how to solve this issue of just getting it to print consistently.

u/NutkinChan · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Hello all,

I'm trying to solve a persistent clicking / extrusion / constant print failure problem with my Qidi X-One 2.

I own a Qidi X-One 2, and for the last few weeks I am experiencing a clicking, extrusion problem that I cannot seem to fix. The filament twists and turns coming out of nozzle.

I changed the nozzle and tube a few weeks back, and printed ok for a few prints, but now the same problems are back. I only use PLA.


I recently placed this order through Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVIYNFW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used the cleaning filament last night, following the instructions on the package. I ran about one to two feet. I tried cold pull but the filament broke both times and did not pull all the material from the nozzle.

I ran some more cleaning filament, and then switched to my Solutech white PLA. I started to run the PLA to flush out the cleaning filament, and as this happened, clicking is back, and the filament twists and turns coming out of the nozzle.

Its like it did nothing!

I have also ordered some needles for nozzle cleaning, but these haven't arrived yet. I have also ordered some more nozzles and tubes, and will exchange for new ones when they arrive. But ultimately I would like to prevent the problem from happening in the first please.

Please let me know what else to try. Any help is greatly appreciated as I am fairly new to 3d printing.

Thank you!

u/bobstro · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

A lot of people swear by plain white (so you can see any stuck crud) ABS. I personally never print ABS and don't want to buy a spool just for cleaning, so I was happy to find eSun cleaning filament. It looks expensive, but you only use 6 inches/150mm at a time. The big pluses for the cleaning filament are that they are "sticky", so should do a good job pulling crud out of the hotend, plus they melt over a very wide range, so if a bit gets left behind, it'll melt right out even if you print PLA next.

u/Kariko83 · 2 pointsr/Reprap

Good luck getting the clog out. Last time I had a cold end clog like that I had to remove the heatsink, let the hot end plus heatbreak get up to temp, and pushed through some Nylon, I think, cleaning filament I got online but pulled it out before it softened too much. Pliers and channel locks were used to grip the hot end so I could do it without burning myself.

u/PuterPro · 2 pointsr/CR10

What both /u/NoVTekku and /u/Wiggles69 said. Definitely underextrusion.

I found with printing NinjaFlex that it was unusually hard to clear the PLA from the nozzle. Usually I heat a bit above the previous plastics print temp and push HARD then pull back a bit and push HARD, etc a couple times.

It creates a push then suction effect that usually clears the old plastic fast.

Won't work for flexibles. You can't push hard, it just absorbs the pressure, so the old plastic sticks in there, lurks around then clogs.

I bought some cleaning filament and use it when changing to flex.

This: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVIYNFW

Also, my method for clearing clogs on the CR-10 series (look for my comments):

https://www.reddit.com/r/CR10/comments/7qs7nf/soooo_uhhhh_that_happened_the_first_1015_layers/

Works to get clogs that get missed by other methods...


PuterPro

u/TheSwami · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

My first couple rolls were Monoprice's MP Select PLA+, which is about $20/kg and often on slight discount. Pretty good stuff.

I've tried Inland PLA, which is Available on Amazon or locally if you're near a Microcenter.. It's made by eSun. $15/kg with prime shipping. It's pretty much fine, though a little touchier about temperatures, and it's a little more brittle. The different colors also seem to need slightly different settings, especially black.

I've pretty much standardized on eSun's PLA+. Just a little more expensive at $22-$23/kg, but less brittle.

Any of them would be a fine first PLA. The prints have turned out great with all three, and I still rotate through them, as I have some colors in from Monoprice and Microcenter that I don't have in eSun. Reports vary (google "Inland eSun PLA" for a sampling), so some of this may also be confirmation bias. I don't regret purchasing any of the above.

u/UnicodeScreenshots · 2 pointsr/harrypotter

All three crests were printed on a stock ender three with Hatchbox Wood pla. The pla I used sands and stain just like wood so it was the perfect choice for these crests.

For the Gryffindor and Raven claw crests, I used regular dark wood stain. The Slytherin crest is what the prints look lime without staining. I plan on on painting the Slytherin one as I dont think the stained look fits the house. Links to everything I used can be found below.

Link to filament

Gryffindor Crest

Raven Claw Crest

Hufflepuff Crest

Slytherin Crest

u/WhatDoIKnow2 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Weird. If you click other sellers on Amazon it does show Amazon as a seller with Prime.

u/robdoc · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I've only used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01092XXD4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 but had some great results.

Here's some of my wood pla projects. The first two images are sanded and stained, the final is fresh off the printer with some fuckups I was troubleshooting. https://imgur.com/a/DdEEXzZ

u/Annoying_guest · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting
u/zeroquest · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I'm expecting my printer tomorrow (Maker Select v2 - couldn't wait for mini v2 and reading mixed thoughts put me off) going to try printing this with a wood PLA. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01092XXD4) Really excited to see how it turns out. Have to wait until Tues for the filament, but that'll give me some time to acquaint myself with this beast. Thanks for inspiring me.

u/PandaReich · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I got mine from Amazon, only because the Hatchbox one was out of stock for a week and I'm impatient.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018MG4SK6

Comments are comparing it to Hatchbox, but I have no idea how well it prints because I'm dumb and have a .4 mm nozzle and didn't realize a .5 mm or higher is recommended.

u/brote1n · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

It’s actually marble! Looks great and hides some small imperfections
ZIRO 3D Printer Filament PLA 1.75mm Marble Color 1KG(2.2lbs) - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IIAC2MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Y05iDbDAKXX8T

u/LaenFinehack · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I'm a connoisseur of purple.

u/Praynurd · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

If it's the one that's been being used for other posts, Ziro marble PLA https://www.amazon.com/ZIRO-Printer-Filament-1-75mm-Marble/dp/B01IIAC2MW

u/MalenfantX · 2 pointsr/Pimax

I've been using the snap-in version for a couple of weeks now, and have no problem at all. This is the plastic I used. It may be a little rougher than average, which could help.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IIAC2MW

u/phr0ze · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I dont recommend those. Not only do they end up too short but the quality is often questionable.

If you want a bundle of colors in high quality, I really love AIO robotics. They sell a 12 pack of half kilos. Its enough for big prints but small enough to not have filament get too stale.

Also the colors are so rich and the Orange is the closest I found to Prusa in PLA.

AIO Robotics ZEUS Premium Filament Bundle, PLA, True Popular Pantone Colors (Pack of 12) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K59SDF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_iGdgzbX0RJ291

u/DrKabookenstein · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Here's a link for Amazon (not affiliate) to the stuff I got:

Silk Gold 3D Printer PLA Filament 1.75 mm 1 KG (2.2 LBS) Spool 3D Printing Material CC3D Shine Silky Shiny PLA Metal Gold Like Metallic PLA Filament https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRPYXP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_eCTQCbJT0C24S

Printed a Sleeping Beauty's crown for my wife.

u/1studlyman · 2 pointsr/succulents
u/insanezane91 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting
u/rob12770 · 2 pointsr/ender3

i bought this tianse.. but it looks shit, im not impressed..lots of snot on it.

TBH i dont think wood filament is ready yet. i get better "wood" results with normal PLA and my airbrush.

u/unpaid_overtime · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

It was. Just checked the link to see if it was still active. Looks like they cleared off the discount.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y47VXY2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've only ever used the hatchbox wood pla. So I'll have to see how it goes.

u/TieDownWaffle · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting
u/BRUMBPO__TUNGUS · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

That mostly depends on your budget. 3DXTech's CF nylon and PC are good but relatively expensive, and NylonX from MatterHackers is cheaper and also apparently good. Priline seems fine, but it looks heavily blended.

I currently only print standard PC and PEEK and have never used any of the filaments I linked, but to my knowledge they're quality (especially the first two brands) and are generally reviewed well.

PC is similar to or worse than ABS, at least in my experience. It stunk more unless I turned temps down enough to where layer bonding was awful, in which case there was barely any odor. So you might be able to print lower-temp blends without it being too bad, though you're back to dealing with ABS in most of them. The fumes also uniquely gave me a headache. I added recirculating filtration to my enclosure after a few prints and no longer smell anything at all, but it was terrible previously. Nylon emits a lot of (relatively harmless) VOCs as well as a large amount of UFPs, but as far as I'm aware, the fumes aren't as irritating as from ABS.

u/kuthedk · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Silk Copper 3D Printer Filament PLA 1.75 mm 1 KG (2.2 LBS) Spool 3D PLA Printing Material Silky Like Shiny Metal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0761PMW3X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ihvaCbHW79QQB

u/sosondowah · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Filament used: Silk Copper PLA, Tool temp: 197, Bed: 60

Printer: Ender 3, 30% cubic infill, 2mm walls

u/antdam · 2 pointsr/ender3

Stronghero3D 3D Printing PLA... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FCQ9WDJ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Not sure if that shares right but there it is. There was a sale on it someone posted on Reddit with a coupon, this soon looks awesome and it gets much better color the more I use it, keep watching I'll be posting more stuff as the colors change.

u/therealjasonsmith · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

No, it was a weird promotion+coupon that I'm pretty sure I found posted on reddit. I can't find the old details now. My total order was $6.03 including tax. I think each person could only get one. I just assume any large rainbow colored print I see is somebody burning through one of those rolls :)


This was the filament: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FCQ9WDJ

u/xakh · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Sure! it was available at a promotional price of $6 last week so I decided to pick up a spool. It has a nice shine to it, as well as the rainbow coloration.

u/Waterskins · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Shiny Silk Gold Silver Copper PLA Filament Bundle, 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament, Each Spool 0.5kg, 3 Spools Pack, with One 3D Printer Remove Tool MIKA3D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JMRNHVS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LJX5CbJC0ATAA

u/vowofloudness · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I've had good results with MIKA3D. They sell it in 3 packs of silver/copper/gold 0.5kg spools so you can try all three. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JMRNHVS

u/flatcurve · 2 pointsr/fosscad

I want to see somebody try Siraya Tech Blu. I saw a video where somebody made a 22lr suppressor out of this stuff and it held up fine.

u/Morticide · 2 pointsr/AnycubicPhoton

I went with this

Blu by Siraya


I use ChiTuBox and these are my print settings

I do about a 10-15% mix with Anycubic Grey and these are my last print results

Edit: Forgot to add, I cure my model for about 15 minutes before priming.

u/CyrusDonnovan · 2 pointsr/AnycubicPhoton

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KSYRW34/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This stuff glows SUPER bright and is a pretty decent transparent blue color. Glows bright electric blue under UV light.

u/JaqLerros · 2 pointsr/PrintedMinis

I got mine through Amazon (currently $256 US).

There are some additional costs to be aware of though.

  1. Resin (~$40): I'm using Elegoo Grey
  2. 99% IPA (~$3) For cleaning prints
  3. UV Light (~$30) for curing
  4. Gloves (~$10) It comes with some, but you'll be replacing those quickly
  5. Ventilation (~$100) depending on where you're printing.

    It can add up if you're not careful. So plan for an additional $200.
u/lfernandes · 2 pointsr/ender3
u/byhi · 2 pointsr/functionalprint

cc3d Rainbow Silk PLA

I didn’t forget! (Surprisingly) But here’s the link to the Rainbow Filament. I’m printing at 210/60 and seems to be going well. I haven’t played too much with temps.

u/EverlastingMoment · 2 pointsr/ender3

Thanks. I will look into adjusting jerk settings. I had them at default values so far. Yes, rainbow silk filament fro amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PYDNQXS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2YAHDb1TVC70J

Was hoping for quicker transitions but turned out well for the cat.

u/revoisArt · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PYDNQXS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dxLKDbT73YKQH

This is the one I got! It looks like it’s out of stock now, sadly, but the filaments by the same company will probably be similar. I really love the gradient fades in this one.

u/Brostafarian · 1 pointr/mechmarket

pricing would have to be per-item and would be a combination of raw material cost + print time + any other additional stuff.

I see two contra cases, a full case and sandwich style. I normally print in HTPLA which is about 70/kg; the sandwich one would be no sweat, probably like 15 bucks? the other case is a lot larger and would take 10 hours to print, so it'd have to be more like (edit) 60. Plugging those into shapeways it looks like the sandwich is 20 on the cheapest plastic, and the full case is 110.

I do have some cooler filaments as well, like flexible filament, super tough semi-flexible nylon, and glow in the dark filament, so while the raw prices are definitely gonna be higher than someone cutting acrylic, I can do some cool stuff

edit 2: if you want to check out some of my designs you can look at my Thingiverse page. gives you an idea of the quality of prints I'm able to do, and the quality of CAD work. Neither is particularly spectacular, but I get the job done

u/uijoti · 1 pointr/subaru

There is, but by what I hear it's pretty finicky. You can also print in different types of nylon and other rubbery materials.

u/HiroEX · 1 pointr/prusa3d

Thank you so much for the reply! The filament is a couple weeks old now, but is a transparent PLA, the other filament I was having similar issues with was a black PLA+. I had originally thought it was a nozzle issue, so I actually just replaced the nozzle with a hardened steel 0.4mm nozzle. I just picked up some standard Inland Gray PLA, so I will give that a shot and see if I see similar results or not (maybe it is just the filament)

The filament I was using is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MB3CV6K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some possibly relevant notes: This was printed at 210, I tried printing it at 205 (that caused layer adhesion issues) but noticed even at 210 I was getting weak layer adhesion,, so I upped it to 220 which seemed a bit better, and while I'm still seeing stringing, at least its adhering a bit better, but still pretty brittle.

u/zack9r · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

1) Solutech pla (very cheap $)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME7CV7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Wi.WAb1C7EF7D

2) Hatchbox pla carbon fiber (more $$$, not to mention you need a wear-resistant nozzle)


Both from amazon

u/Aorus_ · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

PLA filament is the way to go. There's tons on amazon this is what I usually get. Also make sure the filament is 1.75mm

Link

u/wikingwarrior · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Okay, I was trying recommended premade profiles online that people had tinkered with, I'll see if the Cura profile works.

Sorry, That's not the bed, that's my workshop desk,I didn't think to take a picture until after I had removed it, though I did use the generic aluminum bed for the print. I'll try again with the defaults and take another picture on the bed if it doesn't succeed

25mm/second

PLA, both the spool provided in the printer and this

I appreciate the help.


u/Lux_alar · 1 pointr/prusa3d

This is using the cheapest PLA I could find on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/3D-Solutech-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B00ME7CV7C

u/5k3k73k · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I may do that. I bought this filament hoping that it would appear metallic. It prints nicely but it just came out as a dull grey.

u/joem_ · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

AFAIK, the silver PLA that came with my MK3S kit isn't official prusament filament (no QR code, no prusament branding, not a prusament spool), though I have no complaints about it.

I do have a few spools of official prusament, and I have zero issues printing with them. Very smooth flat walls, oozing is controlled (no stringing), and the built-in Slic3r PE profiles for prusament are spot on. I like that the filament comes with resealable bags to keep the spool in with the moisture absorbing pack, as well as the honeycomb spool it comes on. The QR code to see the stats of the filament is nice, but kinda gimmicky, and doesn't impress me any more.

All that being said, I'm currently printing with some 3D Solutech stuff I got from amazon for $16 which claims +/- 0.03mm tolerance and again, it's wonderful quality while printing. It's not wound on the spool nearly as nice, though.

u/stryperman · 1 pointr/3Dprinting
u/JackDark · 1 pointr/3Dprinting
u/scottbg1 · 1 pointr/AnetA8

As far as quality gains you'll experience from changing over to a Bowden/E3d v6 is that you're lightening the overall mass of the Hotend carriage.

If you stop and think, the gantry is carrying the load of the stock Hotend as well as the weight of the stepper motor and the enertia it's contending with in those back and forth movements which can cause defects in your print if your frame isn't solid.
Is not a design flaw, but just an effect of the design.
Like I mentioned earlier you're limiting yourself with exotic filaments with a Bowden, but you're shedding weight to reduce vibration and gaining the opportunity for more speed without having to reinforce the frame a great deal.
But look at extruders like the Titan. These are high performance direct drive extruders that are lighter than stock, but still heavier than a Bowden but you keep the benefits of printing any filament you like.
As well as you don't have the bad characteristics of A Bowden. The Teflon tube that will run from the extruder to the Hotend on a Bowden system, that guides the filament will have a bit of 'give' in it when the extruder is pushing and pulling the filament.

Here is a crude way of describing it...
Let's say for the sake of simple math, that it takes 1 pound of pressure in your stock, direct drive extruder to properly push the exact amount of required filament required for laying a line of plastic onto the heat bed. Now realistically that pressure changes constantly but let's just say you need a consistent 1lb of pressure all the time. It only has to travel a couple of mm's before it's in the Hotend.
In a Bowden system, the extruder pushes the filament through the long Teflon tube and the tube will give way to that pressure. So though your extruder is pushing at 1lb, by the time it reaches the Hotend its only seeing 0.95 lbs because of the tube absorbing some of the pressure. You can compensate with firmware to tell the extruder to actually push 1.05lbs so that when it reaches the Hotend, it's getting the 1lb that it needs. But it's never really 100% accurate. And if your firmware isn't set perfectly you'll see it in the print, like uneven layers and such. Not a very elegant explanation but I'm typing from my phone.

PETG is stronger and much more heat resistant than PLA. PLA is good for whatnots and things you'll sit on your desk that don't need to be structurally sound. PETG is used for things like printing a hook to hang a rolled up extension cord out in your non climate controlled garage and it not break under the weight over time.
PLA is super easy to print and has a broad window of settings to get a nice print. PETG is not as forgiving in the settings department and you have a narrow margin for error. But once you get it dialed in, it prints like PLA. I mentioned polycarbonate earlier. It's even stronger and more heat resistant and you could print chain links with it and hang your front porch swing on it. But it's damn unforgiving and I struggle with it to this day.

Here is the cleaning filament I use. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVIYNFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Q8bkDbV3KFZDT

I only use it when going from one type of filament to another. Like from PLA to PETG. Just changing colors of the same type of filament you wouldn't need it. It's the temperature differences between the 2 that cause jams. PLA prints around 190C. PETG is around 240C. That reminds me of another benefit of the E3d v6. It's all metal and can handle the hotter temperatures of filaments like PETG. You have a Teflon liner in the throat of your stock extruder. I think it's only good up to about 210C.

I haven't really shopped for SLA printers. Consumer SLA printers are still in their infancy. But what I have stumbled across are very small. Like only 6 inch by 6 inch build volumes for $200-$300. And you're limited to the resins that are available. I think only PLA type plastics are available right now. Nothing you could print anything functional with.

u/malikto44 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I swear by this filament. I run it through when doing filament changes, as well as nozzle changes. I also use it if I get a clog.

u/tonystark29 · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

A new heatbed is around $30. Another option is to buy a $10 square silicone heat pad from aliexpress, stick it underneath the stock bed and clip a sheet of picture frame glass to the top.

Don't be discouraged by a jam, it's a simple system. Take the fan shroud off, unscrew the fitting and take the tube out. Heat up the block and try to push filament through by hand. This usually clears blockages. If still a no-go, use cleaning filament instead. It's does wonders for cleaning hotends.

u/DiscordDraconequus · 1 pointr/FixMyPrint

It is possible you might need some of this.

I've been lucky and have never had to deal with a clog myself, so I'm afraid I'm not much help from here on. I think it's probably clog related and would suggest some more targeted Google searches with that in mind to find solutions.

u/dotPhoenix · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

There is also cleaning filament. It is safe to use at ABS and PLA temperatures. Just extrude the cleaning filament until it starts coming out clean. Then lower or raise the temperature to match the new plastic and extrude it until the cleaning filament is no longer being extruded. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVIYNFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HzGvybEZNY8K2

u/Static_Bunny · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Just printed my first ninjaflex test print and it came out way better than i expected. The only problem is how long it takes for all the previous filament to be cleaned out. I was thinking of getting the following from eSun but wanted to make sure there wasn't any other options I'm missing.

http://www.amazon.com/Printer-CLEANING-Filament-Makerbot-Printers/dp/B00MVIYNFW/

If anyone has used eSun with a bowden setup i would love to hear how you used it. Did you put it right into the hot end by removing the PTFE tubing or did you just put in a piece between your filament chance and have the new filament push it though? I'm just wondering how that would work with ninjaflex already being hard to get back pressure on with a bowden.

u/phinneypat · 1 pointr/prusa3d

Not from Prusa, but here are some other things I use over and over and over and am glad I bought. These are not affiliate links and you can probably find some of these items cheaper elsewhere:

Thin craft spatulas for removing prints: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075SLTY8B (some say "never scrape using a metal tool" but these are very thin and flexible and really help with some prints)

Cleaning filament: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVIYNFW

Silicone socks: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07779TP4S

Good quality hex drivers https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O5014 these will make assembly and maintenance MUCH easier than the included tools. Especially the smallest one that fits the set screw in the Bondtech extruder gear really well, much better than the "decent" hex keys I already had in my toolkit

u/foofoodog · 1 pointr/3Dprinting
u/RufioXIII · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I've used a fair amount of inland filament, and I like it a lot. Currently selling for 16.99 on Amazon. Comes in a bunch of colors too. From what I've read, it's the same as eSun filament which usually goes for about 22 bucks a kg.

u/osirisad · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

it's PLA - I'm using the Inland brand. I kicked it up to 215 because it says - Recommended Extrusion/Nozzle Temperature: 215°C - 230°C on the description.

u/ThirdDerivOfPos · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

It's not quite as cheap as in store but I've also had good experience with Inland brand (what microcenter sells) on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YQB85PG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BJU1DbVX3WYNF

u/theOTHERbrakshow · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I second this. I’ve gone through at least 30 spoils of Inland because I pass a micro center on both legs of my work commute. It’s $15 for pla and $18 for petg and they work great. The colors aren’t great but who cares. Recently they color formula has changed a bit and the colors have definitely improved. [Amazon] ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YQB85PG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_In16Ab8RMSNNG ) has recently started carrying it on prime so no need to live near a MC anymore.

u/Hellspark08 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I'm using a new Maker Select with this filament. I've done some mods already:

Glass bed with hairspray and binder clips

Fan duct

Z endstop

Extruder gear

My Y carriage was warping, so I modified this one

I'll post any settings I'm using, if that would help.

u/Radmite · 1 pointr/headphones

Metal, most likely no as I don't have any experience with it. (plus the price)

Wood, maybe. I have a good bit of woodworking knowledge, but not at this small of a scale. If I were to do it in wood, it may be just wood 3D printer filament

u/exccord · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

> How do you find printing in Wood?
>
> I've only done pure PLA so far. I want to try a PLA infused wood next.

You need wood filament. Apparently Hatchbox Wood PLA is not possible to find right now, why? I do not know.

Amazon link which is currently out of stock. I honestly do not have any knowledge and/or recommendation for another brand of wood filament so hopefully someone can chime in.

u/AnotherMadHatter · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Hatchbox and AMZ3D wood PLA from Amazon print just fine. AMZ3D filament comes from the same factory as Hatchbox. If you like one, you'll like the other. Also, AMZ3D has more blues and purples than Hatchbox (just in case you were interested).

u/maosBOT · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

A filament with some percentage of wood added to create different finishes as compared to other filaments.

HATCHBOX 1.75mm Wood 3D Printer Filament - 1kg Spool (2.2 lbs) - Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.05mm

u/crusher1013 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Basic Cura guide for simple problems-https://ultimaker.com/download/170/Cura_User-Manual_v1.0.pdf

Sli3r manuel (I know you are using cura but the advanced settings are adusting the same things and some of the different settings can get confusing this can explain each setting)-http://manual.slic3r.org/

Your machine has a max temp of 230C and I print my wood filament (http://www.amazon.com/HATCHBOX-1-75mm-3D-Printer-Filament/dp/B01092XXD4) at about 205-210C so you are good.

As for all the speeds you have to experiment to see what is right for your printer but I would start slow and work up. I agree 60mm/s is a good starting point. Use the suggested temps for the filamnet as a baseline and work from there. I believe the Maker Select is almost identical to the Wanhao Duplicator i3 so these articles might help you also-http://3dprinterbrain.info/pmwiki.php/DupI3/SlicerSettings

After you start printing use this to tune and troubleshoot, it is very good-https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

Above everything, you are going to fail some prints and you are probably going to troubleshoot, but when you have a problem just come back and we help you troubleshoot.

u/danns87 · 1 pointr/FixMyPrint

Thanks I'll try bumping up the temp a bit.

The color is a bit weird because of the lighting, but it's just this common filament: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01092XXD4/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_kFv4Db1J16DN1

u/soul_in_a_fishbowl · 1 pointr/videos

This is the wood filament I use when I print. I like this filament more than any other material. It prints so well. I've had cleaner prints with this stuff than any other material.

u/TheGreatGhostof1979 · 1 pointr/boardgames

Easy solution- Wood Filament

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I got mine on Amazon. It's a lot more expensive than regular filament, but so very worth it.

u/Lv328r007 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Thanks for the interest everyone.
I used Hatchbox 3D Wood filament, printed with PLA settings, bed 60, extruder 210. The only problem I have is it's super stringy as the extruder moves from finish to start locations.

I'm going to finish this with sandpaper, this filament sands very nicely. Once it's sanded I'm going to assemble the boat pieces with wood glue, sand again then use wood stain to finish.

Think I'm going to print at least 5 of these and experiment with different wood stains and some colors. I don't have any serious plans to use them in water but I've heard this filament does float.
If I use some spray lacquer it might help but I'm guessing introducing the print to water probably wouldn't be the best for it's longevity.

If you look at the reviews in the below link you'll see some finished prints.
Link to filament - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01092XXD4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/juicius · 1 pointr/3Dprinting
u/mechwd · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I printed it from my Prusa MK2. Mine is from MG Chemicals https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018MG4SK6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_hGqQDbE6DSE9G

It is abrasive, so you will need a harden nozzle.

u/Its-just-hopnod · 1 pointr/nOfAileDPriNtS

I got it off Amazon, brand is MG Chemicals. It failed because the nozzle clogged, but that was my fault for being impatient when switching filaments. I really like this wood filament, its a nice colour and seems to print with really smooth walls.

u/milkandtang · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Without settings it's hard to say, however you can check out my settings for printing wood fill PLA; this was using MG Chemicals Wood PLA (amazon link, non affiliate).

u/emmaj95 · 1 pointr/classicwow

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IIAC2MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_k1bzDbQGXAFZM

Found it! I’m not sure if it’s just a good quality filament or what, but I was really satisfied with the texture.

u/afuriouspuppy · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I'm on mobile, so excuse the formatting:

ZIRO 3D Printer Filament PLA 1.75mm Marble Color 1KG(2.2lbs) - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IIAC2MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XlOvCbSP4Z69F

u/JRSly · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

It night be this, there's a couple brands that make a marble PLA.

u/matski007 · 1 pointr/CR10

Haha awesome! I actually tried this first using a special white with black bits PLA filament that creates a sort of marble effect: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01IIAC2MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nseTAbBMCEK8A

Sadly it must have come unstuck from the bed on the last 20 layers or so (the tip of its nose!). I now use Z-Hop and thicker brims.

u/falloffcliffman · 1 pointr/prusa3d
u/17102 · 1 pointr/functionalprint

No, it’s AIO Robotics Green. I am a teacher and I purchased this pack of 12 through Amazon. It’s about the same price/kg but we gat a lot of different colors.

u/sweeneyty · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K59SDF4/ref=psdc_6066128011_t4_B076CB9W4M AIO bundle on amazon - what i prefer. handy to have the full spectrum on hand. quality is decent.

u/Pohlss · 1 pointr/AnetA8

I enabled z hopping on this print because I knew it would be all over the place and possibly as a preventative. For filament, I use the following filament:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01K59SDF4?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

It seems fine for every print so far and a few days ago I took apart the extruded and it seemed fine. The tip has undergone a lot of damage from miscalculations in calibration (it has been pressed down on the plate a LOT from poor z calibration). I’m not sure that the damaged tip would affect the x skipping though; my previous post somebody recommended tooth skipping but it is tensioned and I couldn’t imagine it skipping if it’s tensioned

u/IAmDotorg · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Here you go: Imgur

The camera's out of focus, I need to fiddle with it. Its also one of the no-IR filter ones, so the colors are not accurate.

Its not a great angle if your goal is to shoot build videos, but its a good enough one for monitoring the print to make sure it hasn't gone horribly wrong.

The orange came from this combo pack:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K59SDF4

u/alaorath · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

No examples (because I'm at work), but I just unpacked my spool of this:
https://www.amazon.com/Filament-Silk-Gold-Printing-Material/dp/B06XRPYXP2

Based on the box markings, and the same cardboard filament stop, I think it's made in the exact same plant as this Kehuashina filament: https://www.amazon.com/Kehuashina-Filament-Printer-1-75mm-Diameter/dp/B07Q5P9XWS

Prints very VERY well on clean glass. The finish is amazing... pearlecent golden color, just like the example pictures.

Ender 3 Pro, 0.4mm tip with 205C hotend, 75C bed (lowering to 50C after first layer).

I've been experimenting with adjusting my designs to try and print only in "vase mode" (continuous Z-axis shift) to avoid the z-seam. Which is more noticeable on any "silk" type filaments.

But...

You gotta keep it dry. I have a eSun eBox dehumidifier, which I ran for 6 hours before trying to print anything beyond Mr Benchy... my print-bed was measuring 47% humidity this morning due to the non-stop rain. :'(

u/cavemanjr93 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting
u/troyproffitt · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Well a spool of gold filament costs about $25, I'd charge about $20 to print it, and maybe $6 to ship it. Just so you know this thing is pretty large.....about 3 ft long (after assembled).

u/iammobius1 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Thanks! I printed it in this generic silk gold PLA.

u/illregal · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I have that one, and its been awesome. And one or two of their regular pla's. No issues with any of them.

This is the PC https://www.amazon.com/PRILINE-Printer-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B074DS3986/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539018836&sr=8-1&keywords=priline+pc

u/ImOnlyHereFor3DPrint · 1 pointr/3Dprinting
u/ImNotFlame · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Silk Copper PLA 3D Printer Filament 1.75 mm 1KG 2.2LBS Spool 3D Printing Material CC3D Shine Silky Shiny Metallic Metal Red Purple Copper PLA Filament https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0761PMW3X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XCwBDbXV4S60K

u/thatguywithacamera · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Silk Copper 3D Printer Filament PLA 1.75 mm 1 KG (2.2 LBS) Spool 3D PLA Printing Material Silky Shine Shiny Metal CC3D Metallic PLA Like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0761PMW3X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_e1mVCb9X70V7M

u/dbaderf · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

100% correct. This stuff is pretty amazing. I've tried a couple of spools of silk blue from a couple of different vendors and they make very good prints as well.

Polyalchemy and Prusament both have some colors I can't get from other vendors. Getting gorgeous prints from the Polyalchemy Bubblegum (pink) and their deep purple.

u/Barthemieus · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

There are a couple bundles from different brands on amazon that give you 3-4 half spools for $30-40 and look pretty cool.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7SYS7J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UZGwCb5XM9N34

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JMRNHVS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_z0GwCbBCYJXYY

u/vbsargent · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

The Hatchbox has served me well. I have also used eSun, Ziro marble, and this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07JMRNHVS?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

u/thegamenerd · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

That would be Mika3D Gold silk PLA. It comes in a bundle with silk copper and silk silver. Unfortunately the seller on amazon only sells it in half kilo spools and only as a bundle.

u/gibsonlpsl · 1 pointr/ValveIndex

My favorite reason lately is Siraya Blu: Blu - Strong and Precise High Resolution 3D Printing Resin by Siraya (1kg) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KSYRW34/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FcsjDbDWXH7G7

It's my first time with a resin that's able to make end-use parts like this so it's a lot of fun.

u/8492_berkut · 1 pointr/AnycubicPhoton

Typically if a part of a model doesn't print, but later pieces do it's pretty safe to presume it's something to do with supports.

As for hollowing, I'm chasing that dragon myself. I've noticed The hollowing function will cause "artifacts" that show up on the first layer of the print when it's sliced and previewed, and they ruin the model. I've had some success with MeshMixer, but the last model I tried to hollow wound up with cracks in the base, so I stopped until I can spend more time researching how to fix them.

Resins - people are using a lot of Elegoo brand resin for their minis. A lot of positive buzz surrounds the Siraya Tech Blu resin, but be aware it needs to print in a warmer environment, 25C or warmer. I have used the sample translucent green to good effect, and I'm working through a bottle of Anycubic white that is similarly working quite well. I've got some of the Elegoo gray and Anycubic plant-based resins sitting in my workspace that haven't been opened yet. I have high hopes for the elegoo and no idea on how the plant-based resin will do.

No idea if anyone makes an auto-refiller for these printers. Good idea though.

u/Universe_Becoming · 1 pointr/jewelrymaking

Here are a few other tips. When casting small stuff like this you should use a pressure pot. What that does is, while the resin is curing, the pressure, say 4 bar or 60 psi, will squeeze air bubbles down so small that they can't be seen with the naked eye.

If you want to make a lot of these, like thousands, then a good way to make them is via spin casting.

By the way, why are you making these by casting? Do you have a resin printer? If so there are resins that are strong enough to work, like Siraya Tech's Blu. On the other hand, why can't you buy these premade somewhere?

u/dixiyonef · 1 pointr/AnycubicPhoton

Hi. Based on the info I found Blu by Siraya is not really flexible but simply bendable (not brittle). As far as I know bendable parts may not crack, break and shatter but they may also not return to their printed form after being bent too much. And flexible almost always returns to its originasl shape. https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=6&v=jxuinrFVw7o I hope I'm not wrong on this and you get my point.

​

is there a specific reason you mix with ordinary brittle resin?

​

Thanks.

u/Molten_Plastic · 1 pointr/AnycubicPhoton

I can drop a 28mm miniature from 10 feet to a concrete floor, and nothing happens to it printed in Sariya Blu. It's legit. And, it's cheap as shit.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KSYRW34 You get 1 LITER for $49.99.

u/MaxTheBiochemist · 1 pointr/AnycubicPhoton

Fixed: First off, thank you guys so much for your advice. This forum is a huge boon to owning a photon. Passing it forward, the problem was solved after I did the following:

  1. Cleaning the dust out of the room the printer was in and buying an Air purifyier/filter for $50 on Amazon and setting it up so it was right next to the printer, sucking air from underneath the printer where the intake fan is.

  2. After cleaning the room, I bought a bottle of Elegoo Gray. See Here. This stuff is amazing.
u/Zemerick13 · 1 pointr/ElegooMars

Just be careful to make note of the amount as well. The standard is around about $45/L, which would be around 60cad. I'm in the US, so can't speak about anywhere local and such. I just went off of the prices listed on amazon and such.

For the Bluecast:
https://www.digitmakers.ca/collections/vendors?q=Blue%20Cast-3D%20Garage
Note that those are 500g, so approx. .455l, so about 350cad per liter.

Monocure:
https://www.amazon.ca/Monoprice-Rapid-Printer-Compatible-Printers/dp/B07H45B4QF/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=monocure%2B3d%2Bprinter%2Bresin&qid=1575075417&sr=8-11&th=1
That's for half a liter, but priced like a full liter.

Anycubic, they don't have grey atm, but price would be pretty much the same:
https://www.amazon.ca/ANYCUBIC-Printer-Photon-Printing-1000ml/dp/B07GPDMVKP/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=anycubic%2B3d%2Bprinter%2Bresin&qid=1575075556&sr=8-9&th=1
That's for a full liter, and it's cheaper than the half liter of Monocure.

Elegoo:
https://www.amazon.ca/ELEGOO-ABS-Like-UV-Curing-Standard-Photopolymer/dp/B07P6W5L8P/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=elegoo%2B3d%2Bprinter%2Bresin&qid=1575075900&sr=8-6&th=1
A bit more, but not nearly as much as monocure or bluecast.

u/CubbyNINJA · 1 pointr/ElegooMars
u/daewootech · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

i get a bunch of these blades from Daiso and use them for tough prints, start with a corner and work your way around scraping it on a really shallow angle careful not to scratch the built platform.... worst case you pull the whole build surface off and get a new one, my last two orders of filament came with a 8x8 build platform for free, i think the brand was Overture.

u/MarkdownShadowBot · 1 pointr/ShadowBan

Hi /u/kmp3e_, you're not shadowbanned, but 5 of your most recent 100 comments/submissions were removed. They may be removed automatically by spam filters and not necessarily by human moderators.


Comment (1pts) in 3Dprinting, "Found some overture filament for cheap", (05 Oct 19):

> [https://www.amazon.com/OVERTURE-Filament-Consumables-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B07PGY2JP1/ref=as\_li\_ss\_tl?keywords=thermal+pla&qid=1570233056&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFKRFoy...





Comment (1pts) in 3Dprinting, "Found some cheap PLA+", (05 Oct 19):

> [https://www.amazon.com/SUNLU-Filament-1-75mm-Printer-Black/dp/B07Q82HVTT/ref=as\_li\_ss\_tl?crid=2GPEBOXQPH9L6&keywords=3d+printer+filament&qid=1570232146&sprefix=3d+print,aps,180&sr=8-19-spons&psc=1...





Comment (1pts) in 3Dprinting, "Found some cheap TPU filament", (05 Oct 19):

> [https://www.amazon.ca/ANYCUBIC-Flexible-Filament-Accuracy-Compatible/dp/B07GN6QNCS/ref=as\_li\_ss\_tl?keywords=filliment&qid=1570225445&sr=8-50&th=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=&linkId=fc13f64894c426790ec653bc6...





Comment (1pts) in 3Dprinting, "Found some cheap TPU filament", (05 Oct 19):

> [https://www.amazon.ca/ANYCUBIC-Flexible-Filament-Accuracy-Compatible/dp/B07GN6QNCS/ref=as\_li\_ss\_tl?keywords=filliment&qid=1570225445&sr=8-50&th=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=&linkId=fc13f64894c426790ec653bc6...





Comment (1pts) in 3Dprinting, "Found some cheap TPU filament", (05 Oct 19):

> [https://www.amazon.ca/ANYCUBIC-Flexible-Filament-Accuracy-Compatible/dp/B07GN6QNCS/ref=as\_li\_ss\_tl?keywords=filliment&qid=1570225445&sr=8-50&th=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=&linkId=fc13f64894c426790ec653bc6...


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u/zheke91 · 1 pointr/ender3

Hey I also new on this, got my printer a month ago, I was super exited as everyone here when receive their printer, I read a LOT while waiting for the printer, so I heard that the stock bed springs are crappy, so I ordered this ones FYSETC Bed springs, also ordered the Aluminium Extruder feeder, and read about the leveling, the paper sheath method, which I think you should already heard about, I did it at the first time the printer gave me a nearly perfect first print (demo dog) , after a few prints and on my third print I came home just to find a mess on my printer, so I did my research again, find out it was bed adhesion, and find out that the best way was glass bed + PEI sheet was the best option, while waiting to arrive I tried to clean the stock bed sheet with mineral spirits (did have rubbing alcohol) but it worsened the adhesion, so I used one adhesion sticker that comes with the overture filament, and again flawless adhesion, at least for the first 4 prints, then again the frustration, I tried some glue stick and worked but it leaves a mess on your print so I decided to try painters tape directly onto the aluminum bed (which lucky for me it is perfectly flat) this is the best adhesion I have tried, problem is also makes a mess with the down face of the print, Finally mi Gass-PEI arrived, (3 days ago), it has a great adhesion but is not perfect, also you have to raise the Z limit switch to compensate the 5~ mm of Glass-PEI, find out that it isn't perfectly flat it has a good adhesion and leaves a very smooth down face, but at some section it does't sticks well and leaves artifacts on the down face, I'm currently working to fix this.

Sorry for the long post, need to talk about my frustration and let you know you are not alone on this, once you manage to make a good print is very satisfying, I have a PETG filament waiting to be used but I don't think is a great idea to try it until a learn more about 3D printing and the Ender.

u/ShinyB123 · 1 pointr/ender3

CC3D 3D Printer Silk Rainbow

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PYDNQXS

u/AWorkAccount2019 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

You want me to use Google for you? Here's one of the first Amazon results. Please type things in for yourself.

3D Printer Silk Rainbow Multicolor PLA Filamentt 1.75mm 1KG Multi Color Printing Materials Gradually Changing Color PLA Rainbow Mulitcolor Multicolored Metallic Color Gradient Filament CC3D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PYDNQXS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KReHDb0WQ1T7Z

u/SJAD0 · 0 pointsr/3dprinter
  • Material: Wood- Pla Composite(25-30% wood filled in)

    Legit their first spec on amazon.