Best 9v batteries according to redditors

At 56 cents per battery and 48 per night. That's $26.81 per day, and over $800 per month.
If you buy 48 rechargeables with chargers and a backup set the total cost is only $316.94! That's not even two weeks worth of disposables. They are rated up to 1800 cycles but even if you replace them every 6 months after only 200 cycles that's a yearly savings of $9,124.96. OVER NINE THOUSAND DOLLARS OF SAVINGS IN BATTERIES!!!!!!!

well it's a pretty shit battery setup so we ain't wrong. If you insist on running a 9V use these: http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Charger-600mAh-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00HV4KFSA since they'll at least give you IMR caliber performance.

Here you go, $0.01 (plus s/h).

www.amazon.com/Sunbeam-Super-9V-Batteries-Pack/dp/B000ZKGD92

Touch your tongue to both posts for a little thrill. Re-use as often as needed. :)

FTA:

>We even left a meter on to test the battery life - it lasted more than 170 hours (7 days) before the included 9V gave out!

The cheapest Fluke I could find on the internet with an admittedly lazy search was the 114, with an MSRP of $139.95. Assuming you are so absent minded that you never turn your multimeter off, and are going to use a similarly shitty battery to the included chinese 9v, like this Sunbeam battery, priced at $4.49 for a two-pack, or $2.25 per battery, you would own the sparkfun multimeter for:

( 139.95 dollars / 2.25 dollars ) 7 days per battery = 435.4 days before you would (theoretically) spend enough money on batteries to buy a fluke, or about 1.2 years.

If you decide to use this unorthodox financing strategy to splurge on fluke's most expensive DMM, the 8508A, with an MSRP of $10,455, it would take you:

( 10,455 dollars / 2.25 dollars ) 7 days per battery = 4646.7 days of owning the sparkfun multimeter before you would spend enough money on batteries, or about 12.7 years.

EDIT: As tbutters pointed out, it would actually take you 32,526 days to finance the 8508A. You absent minded silly person!

Pickup rechargeable 9v batteries, I recommend this off amazon.

Do you mean 120 volt?.

I've worked with hard wired smoke alarms, and they have all had 9v batteries.

I've never seen 10volt smoke alarm batteries (have seen 10 year alarm batteries, but not 10 volt).

Do you have a link to a spec sheet on those types of alarms?

I looked in my gig bag for inspiration - it turns out that I just have way too much shit in there, most of which is under £15. Cheaper DIY options offered where applicable:

• The snark SN2 clip-on tuner. Absolute must-have.
  
• A decent multi-tool
  
• Allan Key Set if the multi-tool doesn't have the right sizes (metric is normal unless you play something made across the pond, but in case you need imperial, and have lots of space in your gig bag)
  
• Dunlop strap locks are a solid addition to any bassist's set-up
  
• Some fret-fast (I'm too lazy and disorganised to get new strings very often - you could just sub a rag and white mineral oil, but this is a convenient little package)
  
• A couple of spare 9V batteries for your bass, or your (more likely your guitarist's) pedals
  
• A fold-away bass stand that you can take to practices, comes in just over budget, but is a good addition and folds up to about the size of a tube of Pringles
  
• Some cheap bric-a-brac like electrical tape, gaffer tape, write-on-anything pens - all good additions
  
• A decent set of ear-plugs to protect your hearing
  
• Foldaway music stand if you ever play with sheet music; alternatively, if you have a car or are near public transport then this guy might be more bang for your buck; light in case you have one and play in dark venues sometimes and bag in case, like me, you're always leaving the house on gig-day carrying too much
  
• Patch cables if you use several stomp-boxes or rack units
  
• Cable ties to stop your cables getting mangled (can always use zip-ties instead - less neat but much cheaper)
  
• A cheap soldering iron is not essential, but it will be good to have one for that odd occasion where you need it - I've actually been in situations where I've saved some poor soul's night (occasionally mine) by having one of these on my person
  
• Owning a padded guitar strap has saved me much back pain over the years.
  
• A decent torch for last-minute backstage repairs and adjustments, lighting your pedalboard, etc
  
  Conspicuous consumerism at its finest, ladies and gents.

Make sure they're Alkalines, I forget what the old style is called but you don't want your bass to die in the middle of the gig because you saved $1 on your battery. I get the Duracell Pro Cell packs from Amazon, they come out to $1.50 each. They're just normal Duracells but they're good quality and I like the labeling, it's easier to write the installation date on the side of the battery with a sharpie.

It's worth getting a basic multimeter or at least a tester, alkaline batteries don't die all at once, the voltage gradually sags, they read about 9.5V right out of the package and over time they'll droop to 8V, 7V, etc. I've had a lot of basses that are much punchier with full voltage and gradually lose punch and just sound kind of thin and weak until I put in a new battery again. I've had other basses that don't seem to care as much.

https://www.amazon.com/Powerex-MHR9V-230mAh-Rechargeable-Battery/dp/B0002LAKOS

So these are true 9.6v NiMH rechargable batteries. They are akin to the old batteries inside of spyders and powerex has always been the OEM behind these. I used them back in the day for vintage guitar effect pedals and was surprised when I got back into Paintball to see that people didn't know about them. They are over 10v when fully charged and finish near 9.1 when fully discharged. They are hands down the best battery for paintball and a pair of them with a charger might run you 30 bucks and you don't have some frankly ridiculous frankenpack battery weighing you down.

>Yes, the sarcasm is patently obvious. 8/8 m8.

Thank you, my point exactly. Here I'll help.

https://www.amazon.com/ULTRA-smoke-alarm-battery-U9VL-X/dp/B00004W3ZE

Energizer Ultimate 9 Volt Batteries, Lithium 9v Battery.
This is the best out there, but at $6-7 a pop, very expensive.

Rechargable 9V here.

If you are using 9V Alkaline batteries, you should consider getting 9V Lithium rechargeable batteries, otherwise you'll be wasting a crap load of money

$15.99 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EY6BZWS [two 600mA batteries + charger]

I don't really wanna post the code for ethical reasons (I started with some basic Adafruit code for bluetooth and turned it into a full OS). But here's a feature list:

1. Bluetooth, where time, battery percentage, and location are automagically updated by a companion app (a modified version of this app by Nordic Semiconductor.)
   
   
2. A stopwatch, accessed by pressing the left button.
   
   
3. A flashlight, turned on by one of the switches
   
   
4. A "dumb mode" in which only the time is displayed, accessed by flipping the bottom switch
   
   
5. In the future, notifications.
   
   I used u8g2's u8x8 mode for the screen drawing, as it requires no ram.
   
   ​
   
   Here are my parts:
   
   Voltage regulator (takes 8.4v down to 5v)
   
   22pF capacitors
   
   16MHz Oscillator (required for standalone board)
   
   DIYMall blue OLED
   
   Knockoff Arduino Uno
   
   Adafruit UART-Capable bluetooth module (makes sending data easier)
   
   Spare ATMega 328 processors
   
   Li-Ion" 9V" (8.4v) batteries (rechargeable)
   
   Switches
   
   9V battery clip
   
   Soldering Kit
   
   Elegoo prototyping PCBs
   
   Jumper wires (makes life easier & tidier)
   
   Elegoo Starter Kit (Comes with LEDs, resistors, and buttons)

According to Amazon reviews, they are the same as the copperhead Duracells, just cheaper due to bulk.

12 of them are $15.09 [on Amazon].(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UGVWA4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

This is your best bet for a cheap product that will work, but may not fit your use case. The major gripes, and why I would avoid this product, are that it will take a very long time to charge and will likely not be able to be in use at the same time it is charging (depending on how many pedals you have plugged into it and the draw of each pedal). One thing to consider is the batteries that are in this product. There is no way the battery capacity is actually as high as advertised at this price point. It will probably only offer about 60%-70% of the capacity as advertised. I can guarantee they're using questionable Chinese batteries, which are always estimated to have a much larger capacity than what they actually can deliver. Chinese batteries are also known for drastically losing capacity after a short time in use and can be quite dangerous. You will not be able to power digital effect units alongside standard analog pedals with this device. All of the pedals powered with this supply will be daisy chained, and therefor not isolated, unless you're only using the two outputs offered to power two pedals (but what's the point in that?).

Ultimately, I would advise anyone interested in rechargeable battery power supplies for guitar pedals to just buy some rechargeable 9v batteries, such as the Energizer Ultimate Lithium, and use those for each pedal until a better solution makes it to market. It would be a pain to change all of the 9v batteries in the pedals on your board so frequently, but there really just isn't a good solution offered for this... yet.

You are going to be extremely limited in your opamp options using 5V without a boost converter. If you have a 2.5A 5V input at 100% ideal that is 12.5W. You are really not going to get anywhere near 'good' sound with that.

I am old enough to remember boomboxes, and they required at least 6 D-cell 1.5V batteries and ate them up fast. If I were you, I would get some 18650 Li-Ions or flat-packs, good Li-ion charger, and series them up, using a separate charger. With this you can achieve as many 3.7V+3.7V combinations as you have room for, provided you DO NOT attempt to charge them inside the unit. For this you need to buy a dedicated pack with its own charging circuit in it to take USB and not blow up the batteries by leaving some of them at different voltage levels.

You do not want to fuck with Li-Ion charging by yourself, get something pre-made to do it and use that.

How about this:

• https://www.amazon.com/EBL-Battery-Charger-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00HV4KFSA/
  
  9V snap connectors at a dime a dozen, put a few in parallel and make a battery indicator. When it gets low, swap out the batteries for charged ones and put the old ones in the charger. Here is an indicator I used for a power drill. Feel free to use it, of course change the zeners to whatever is suited:
  
  
• https://imgur.com/a/NhiU9
  
  You could also do this with 18650s but they are bigger. Do some research but really, using a 5V usb will give very limited results.
  
  EDIT
  
  You can charge them in the device if you have a charger that charges each cell separately. That is what I am doing with the above hack and a tenergy charger. Do not attempt to charge a pack of cells at once without a balance charger or a built in balance charger. This is dangerous and might lead to such minor inconveniences as lack of un-burned down residence and chronic not-being-alive syndrome.

https://www.ikmultimedia.com/products/irigpre/ + https://www.amazon.com/Headphones-Convertors-Headphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M8G1U0C + https://www.amazon.com/EBL-Batteries-Rechargeable-Battery-Charger/dp/B00HV4KFSA

The NTG3 drains out a 450mAH rechargeable 9V in about 5 hours. Read somewhere that the iRig can be damaged by high current batteries but this is yet to be confirmed. My iRig started to present some bad contact in the on/off switch after 2 years of some intense use (2 on/off cycles per working day) so I jump soldered the contacts and now it stays on as long as the battery is in it. I use it on a boom pole before a Sennheiser G3 plug-on TX. Works like a charm.

I use these for my line6 wireless, work great and last as long as alkalines.
http://www.amazon.com/Combo-Tenergy-Battery-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B009M977K6/ref=sr_1_17?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1410236236&sr=1-17&keywords=tenergy+9v

Do you think purchasing the Return to Ravnica white/blue intro pack would help?

https://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Centura-Self-Discharge-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B003QUNYQI?th=1

I just had a peek in my o2 (JDS Labs) I got with the batteries option, I can't open it up because the volume knob retainer screw isn't metric. There are two 9v 200 mAh rechargeable batteries that look like they are these ones I have linked above.

I use these rechargeables in mine without any issues.

They last a good while too. Pretty good investment.

Duracell Procell 9V are my alkaline choice. They're predictable, reliable, and last long enough. This box of 12 should last years for bass. I always keep 2 in my bass case! (Usually it's for someone else who didn't bring a spare).

Lithium disposable batteries are good too. I just use the Procell because they're ubiquitous and cheap enough.

Same for rechargeables; cheaper ones might have a lower voltage. Try for yourself, and stick to the higher quality rechargeables.

Quick question on this part:

• Unauthorized & improper business names: The Business Name (identifying a seller’s business entity on Amazon) must be a name that: accurately identifies the seller; is not misleading; and the seller has the right to use (that is, the name cannot include the trademark of, or otherwise infringe on, any trademark or other intellectual property right of any person). Furthermore, a seller cannot use a business name that contains an email suffix such as .com, .net, .biz, and so on.
  
  Using this listing as an example: http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-Super-Batteries-Retail-Packaging/dp/B00H85H4F4/ref=sr_1_49?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1457546032&sr=1-49&keywords=electronic+retail+packaging
  
  Would it be permitted to sell as a distributor (name "MeagaDeal") if there was a ".com" after the Panasonic brand name on the packaging? There would be no mention of any TLD suffix for the distributor name anywhere. It would only be for the product manufacturer.