Best tv & video products according to redditors
We found 7,171 Reddit comments discussing the best tv & video products. We ranked the 2,023 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 7,171 Reddit comments discussing the best tv & video products. We ranked the 2,023 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
The Amazon page
This picture gives a generel idea of the TV's size
"Q: Does this tv come with composite hookups? I want to be able to connect my VCR."
This whole Amazon page is fucking gold https://www.amazon.com/ask/questions/asin/B00L403O8U/ref=ask_mdp_dpmw_ql_hza?isAnswered=true#top
Or buy 4 of these and still have 4 cents left to donate!
Thanks! I had a white keyboard and half black/white mouse before with a black mousepad, I like this new contrast.
Edit:
Keyboard: Drop ALT keyboard with brown switches
Monitors: AW3418DW (bottom ultrawide) and S2716DG (top)
Mouse: razer naga trinity
Mousepad: glorious xxl extended white mousepad
Desk: https://m2.ikea.com/us/en/p/linnmon-alex-table-white-s59932698/
Wall mounts: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ID7QNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UgPxDbN1BX7Q8
Pcpartpicker: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/gBJj8Y
Speakers: Audioengine A2+ white
Switch case: Skullcase and co.
Controller chargers/stands: Nyko charge blocks (switch pro controller and ps4 controller)
Wallpaper: https://wallhaven.cc/w/4d1klg
Monitoring software on screen: CAM software from NZXT
http://www.amazon.com/Amazon-W87CUN-Fire-TV-Stick/dp/B00GDQ0RMG
Same link to the device without a referral ID for scott mcnulty in it.
Why not get the Mattel VR?
It's designed in partnership with Google to the Cardboard VR specs so you know it's good, and for not much more money, its plastic construction is vastly more durable than actual cardboard.
https://www.google.com/amp/s/androidtv.news/2016/12/possible-nvidia-shield-2-website-leaks-new-controller-amazon-video/amp/
Edit: So I provide an article with legitimate information supporting the claim, and people downvote. Got it.
Edit 2: I was right. Amazon 4K HDR video being advertised with the new Shield! https://www.amazon.com/NVIDIA-SHIELD-TV-Streaming-Media-Player/dp/B01N1NT9Y6
The ps4 is coming with headsets now aswell:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CMQTVQO/ref=s9_psimh_gw_p63_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=07SB6KWTY8905REK4FAZ&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1389517282&pf_rd_i=507846
scroll down to see the bundle info. :D
This probably has something to do with it.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GDQ0RMG/ref=nav_shopall_k_tv_stick
It took what.... 4 years to get instant video on android, and only after the massive failure of the fire phone. I wonder what it will take to make amazon realize being a dick won't make me buy another tv-dongle-thingy. The only thing it will accomplish is making me dislike amazon even more than I already do, possibly resulting in the cancellation of my prime account.
He posted up it and it got sold
I spent at LEAST 20 hours researching possible sound upgrades. Here's what I ended up finding out and deciding.
Yes, a sound bar or home theater in a box (HTIB) will upgrade your experience. However, it's not that much of a difference. Eventually, you're going to want to upgrade yet again. Strongly recommend you avoid this option, but the hands down consensus best one is this one. http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Classic-Theater-System-Black/dp/B001202C44 . It routinely goes on sale for $120. Patience.
The BEST bang for your buck is to start with 2 speakers and a receiver. Any entry level 5.1 receiver will do (I picked up a yamaha, no complaints whatsoever). For speakers, go to a local audio store/friends house/best buy magnolia center and listen to any speakers they have. DON'T look at price tags and brands, just listen! See what sounds best to you. I ended up getting energy CB-10s, and they blew me away compared to the HTIB systems and even some more expensive options. Energy, Definitive, B&W, Polk, and Pioneer are all solid brands at various price points.
From there, I kept an eye on the various speaker sales, and eventually picked up a center speaker, and then 2 rear speakers as best buy was getting rid of the previous year's models. I was able to get some great speakers at 75% off (energy CB-20s became my new fronts, moved the CB-10s to the rear).
I am not a fan of loud bass at all. So when I eventually wanted to add a subwoofer to complete the experience, I wanted something that would feel tight. Basically the opposite of what you hear from college kids in pumped up honda civics. Again, there a lot of great options, including outlaw, SB, lavasubs, and definitive for starters. I ended up grabbing an outlaw LFM-1 plus, and I'm thrilled with it. Very tight sound, and it can rock the house if I want to watch Gandalf take down the Balrog :D
My current setup, slowly assembled over a 3 year period.
Front: Energy CB-20
Center: Energy CC-10
Rear: Energy CB-10
Sub: Outlaw LFM-1 plus
Receiver: Yamaha RX-v373
TL;DR: Slowly assemble surround sound and you'll be much happier! Listen first, you may like cheaper speakers much better than expensive models. Speakers go on sale SEVERAL times per year, don't pay full price for anything.
You can get Judge Judy with just an antenna, right? If so, there's some fairly cheap DVR options if you want to cut to cord. The one I linked needs an external hard drive to work, but still cheaper than cable in the long one. Check out /r/cordcutters for more info/help.
Pretty sure he uses this. Not 100% sure tho.
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN105S9-Curved-105-Inch-Ultra/dp/B00L403O8U ?
You joke, but this is exactly what View Master has become.
As CoolVids said, I post the episodes every day in the discussion threads. My uploads are rarely HD tho, just a watchable-quality (and same-day) screen-grab.
Why did your digital-antenna plan go up in smoke? If you're in the city, you should be able to get ABC 7 with a $10 antenna. I bought this crappy $30 PVR to record stuff when I'm away. It has a shitty interface, but it records to a USB stick and the recordings are always flawless HD.
Another option, Youtube TV is an online service that also lets you stream and DVR shows. I really liked it, but it was a bit expensive for me. Only available in select media markets, but I know it includes Chicago.
Your TV needs to have a built in tuner, if it does it'll have a coax input that looks like this.
If it doesn't, you can buy an external tuner like this.
As for antennas, just search around for "TV antenna" and you'll get something like this. The biggest difference between any are pretty much the range. They all will give you a coax cable that you just plug in (and screw the nut to tighten) to your TV or tuner box. Longer range ones will also need USB power but they usually come with all the stuff you need.
Once you do that place the antenna where you please. On your TV your settings menu should have a section named something like "TV", "antenna", or "channels". You'll need to go there and tell it to scan for channels. If you can't find the menu you can likely just search for your TV brand and antenna to find a guide
Finding a good position for the antenna might be tricky. You might need to move it around, rescan for channels, and try again and again. Eventually you should max out the number of channels you can get and have a stable TV picture.
Unfortunately depending on your location you might not get great TV reception. You can try to search for your location here to get a sense of what channels you may get and how strong the signal might be.
Hope this helps!
I'll make a list of stuff you need. For the best "bang for your buck" in the $200ish price range.
-----------------------------------------
Speaker wire. Amazon Basics makes great stuff. If you want, you can get 100 feet of it for an extra $2 I think. You can get those monoprice banana plugs if you want. They just help if you're going to be switching speakers around a lot.
Simple wire stripper. Should work just fine.
Cable to plug it in. That'll just plug the amp into a computer. And that cable is amazing quality. For real. I don't know what it is about it, but the moment I touched that cable I knew it was special. This isn't a joke either. You'll understand when you get one. Trust me.
50 watt per channel amp. This thing will be more than enough. I just like it because it is open box, so cheap. The same one new on amazon is $65. If you want to order from amazon, you can just get the smsl sa-36a. Same amp, just 20 watts per channel. Which, again, is plenty.
[Here's that cheaper smsl amp] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017W13OR0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_U2NSBbTRHGFS5). I've got a few of them. They're great. This is what I'd go for if the other one is sold out.
Cheap but good little amp. I don't have one of these because I'm not a fan of the looks, but they get great reviews and a lot of people really like them.
---------------
Speakers:
Miccas. These things are nice for that price. In this price range, you really won't be getting anything better unless you go DIY.
Fluance SX6. These guys are big, but they throw a good amount of sound and some pretty deep bass for a pair of bookshelf speakers. Careful, they're pretty big.
Pioneer. These things are decent, but I think the Fluances would be better for this price. The SX6s throw more bass, which is good if you're not getting a sub. However, these are smaller.
Fluance signature series. I know, you said your budget is only $200, but you said if you need to spend more, then you will. These will sound better than all of the other speakers linked, however, that's not why they're here. I put them here for two reasons. The first is that they're front ported. Most people that are new to speakers might put them up against a wall or close to it, not understanding that the port needs some room to breathe. These have front ports so that's not a problem. The second reason, just look at them. If you really care about looks, these ones are the ones. They're beautiful. (My opinion obviously).
Oof almost forgot. Pleaae don't place the speakers directly on your desk.
--------------------------------
That's a lot. I'll sum it up with my opinion and why.
Amp: smsl sa36a. For close range, you don't need anything with more power. This thing will do whatever you need for bookshelf speakers.
Speakers: micca mb42x. Why? Here's why: for this price range, you won't notice a huge difference in any speakers, unless you get some bad ones. So, get the cheapest ones you can. Later on, if you can afford to upgrade them, you'll probably want to do that. Then you'll have a pair of $80 speakers that you don't need rather than a pair of 130 speakers that you don't need. Another reason I would pick the miccas is because they punch above their price range. Most people say they sound more like a pair of $125 speakers rather than a pair of $80 speakers. So, for real, they're good. Also, they're the smallest of the bunch.
Or, build a pair of C Notes and get something way better than any of these.
Hope this helps!
No it's not. I just got this from Amazon last night. Source So if someone posted something similar in the past, then okay, but I literally made this post myself.
Edit: As a redditor defending my honor and I demand a link to this repost accusation! Added my link.
http://www.amazon.com/View-Master-Virtual-Reality-Starter-Pack/dp/B011EG5HJ2
The new Shield TV models include both the new TV remote and the new game controller: https://smile.amazon.com/NVIDIA-Shield-TV-Streaming-Media-Player/dp/B01N1NT9Y6/
Still the same price ($199) as the original Shield TV.
The new remote and controller are also sold separately, so that owners of the original Shield TV can upgrade their accessories if they want to without repurchasing the entire console (since the basic hardware remains the same and the new features are coming to the original Shield TV in a software update).
TCL 55P607 55-Inch 4K Ultra HD Roku Smart LED TV (2017 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y6FSV5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KhDbAbXB8DATY
Just get this. Done.
Reasons: Full array local dimming, and Dolby Vision support for your Apple TV 4K. With picture quality approaching TVs three times the price.
The Xbox One subreddit isn't very helpful here due to the moderation team deleting these threads. You'll have more luck of at /r/4kTV/ since your thread is going to get deleted. With a 4K TV, you want low input lag which on 4K tvs is hard to find. The current champion was released on 5/1/2018 which is the TCL 6 Series 4K TV. It boasts 12-14ms input where other brands are in the high 40+ms range. The TCL 6 series TV is nearly impossible to get right now, so expect 2-4 weeks shipping. You can get the 65" for $999, the 55" is $650.
These TVs are a hit or miss brand. Some people run into issues with vertical lines or dead pixels on arrival. If you run into this, keep the TV and use it until they can get you a replacement then send the old one in the other box back OR pick yours up from Best Buy and return it to store there.
When I ordered mine, Best Buy delayed my shipping 3 times but gave me $100 gift card. On the 3rd delay I canceled my order and ordered from Amazon. I paid $30 for next day air but the package arrived 3 days late. Amazon rep was super unhelpful and gave me a ton of attitude. A manager got involved and gave me $200 off the TV and refunded my $30 shipping.
55": https://www.amazon.com/TCL-55R617-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B079N9HDNQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525665963
65": https://www.amazon.com/TCL-65R617-65-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B079NJMFL8/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1525667241
If you're really broke, you can get last years model which is one of the highest rated gaming TVs for 4K and it's on sale for $499 https://www.amazon.com/TCL-55S405-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01MTGM5I9/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=152566733
Just wanted to give a big thanks to all the helpful people here who are so willing to share their knowledge, and to u/ZeosPantera for his handy guides.
This was the very first project I wanted to complete in our new house, and considering the delays due to missing/wrong pieces for the furniture, my reluctance to punch holes in the walls in our new place, and so on, it was a bit of a pain to take on. My main goals were to keep it simple, modern, and clean, and I think I managed it well enough.
It's a basic setup, and I know there are some taboo things people will point out (e.g. speakers too close to the corners/walls, non O2-free copper-clad wire, etc), but the important thing is that I'm happy with it. I don't plan on changing much for years to come (unless you guys end up pointing out something that ends up bothering the crap out of me). It looks and sounds great - even the wife loves it, despite her initial skepticism when I first told her my plan (probably the most important thing).
So many thanks to everyone in this subreddit for being awesome, and let me know what you guys think.
As requested, here are the components.
TV:
Audio:
Media console:
Edit: Parts list and links added! And formatting.
Plex is already a listed app
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CX5P8FC
http://www.amazon.com/oc/echo
http://www.amazon.com/Fire_Phone_13MP-Camera_32GB/dp/B00EOE0WKQ
http://www.amazon.com/Fire-TV-streaming-media-player/dp/B00CX5P8FC
https://fresh.amazon.com/dash/
Yes, you will need a separate amplifier, as well as speaker wire and banana plugs (banana plugs optional, gives a cleaner look). One like this would work well:
https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-Audio-R-S202BL-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B01EMQI2CU
Budget Options:
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter-Silver/dp/B00F0H8TOC?th=1&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-SA-36A-TPA3118D2-Amplifier-Black/dp/B017W13OR0
Extreme Budget Option:
https://www.amazon.com/Lepy-LP-2020A-Digital-Amplifier-Stereo/dp/B00C2P61FO
Speaker wire and banana plugs:
https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10239&cs_id=1023904&p_id=14915&seq=1&format=2
https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=104&cp_id=10401&cs_id=1040115&p_id=2801&seq=1&format=2
you'll want to familiarize yourself with the varying options of devices called "set top boxes" or "media streamers". check the sidebar here and do a little google searching.
these devices that are generally small electronic boxes with their own power ins, hdmi outs, and usb ports for connecting media storage devices like flashdrives or external HDD's. they essentially display your saved media on your tv screen and allow for its playback.
sound like what you're looking for?
these boxes range from $60 to around $200 depending on the extra functionality you want.
my personal preference, especially if you want to playback local content, is the WD TV Live.
It's pretty cool to see a product you worked on ship. I wrote some software for the Amazon Fire TV as an intern last Summer. Though I probably won't even buy one. The Chromecast is good enough for me.
I just found out they made a commercial with Gary Busey. Check it out. It's pretty great.
I've bought one of these great, great Amazon Fire TV Sticks and it has not set anything on fire. Total fake news. Very amazing product. ^(Really, really great.)
Wireless HDMI is expensive as hell though. Your particular model is 200 usd. Not to mention the range (9m) is even shorter than an actual HDMI cable, which already has a ridiculously tiny range (~15m).
EDIT: It appears I got the wrong model. This is the right one: http://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-Wireless-Transmitter-Receiver-Streaming/dp/B009DHPUDI
Sorry about that.
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN105S9-Curved-105-Inch-Ultra/dp/B00L403O8U/ref=sr_1_1?s=tv&ie=UTF8&qid=1417331037&sr=1-1&keywords=samsung+tv#customerReviews
Don't worry, you can get one refurbished for nearly double the price!
[Amazon Fire TV Stick] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZV9RDKK/ref=ods_dp_mamv_tkprstrp) -- A great gift for people who don't yet have a "smart TV." Our TV is almost 10 years old, and there's nothing wrong with it, so we don't want to waste money on a new television. For that reason, the Fire TV Stick is perfect for us!
Then choose your quality level with a corresponding budget:
Lowest entry level mini amp and speakers: $50 6-1/2" 2-Way Bookshelf Speaker Pair and Hi-Fi Mini Amplifier Bundle.
A step up mini amp and speakers: $120 SMSL SA-36A $52 with Dayton Audio B652-AIR 6-1/2" with AMT Tweeter speakers $52 with Speaker Wire and wire tool.
Receiver and better speakers: Around $300 to $400. Look for similar used for the best value.
Receiver: Refurbished with a 1 year manufacturer warranty.
Stereo: ONKYO TX-8220 $135, or ONKYO TX-8140 $200.
Or AV: For use with a TV even with just 2 speakers, 4K HDMI switching, high pass crossover for your speakers if ever adding a subwoofer.
Speakers: Recommendations from AverageJoeAudiophile and r/HTBuyingGuide.
Speaker wire: Pure Copper Oxygen Free 16 Gauge Speaker Wire 50 ft. and self adjusting wire strippers, optional banana plugs to add. Or already with banana plugs, Micca or DFWCableConnection.
Speaker stands: Dayton Audio SSMB24, Monoprice Glass or Monolith by Monoprice and Audio Advisor where most are also available at Amazon.
OR KEEP GOING UP? .....
Also an optional Subwoofer on sale: 10" Infinity SUB R10 Reference Series
$399$140 flash sale.Guides:
Home Audio: Intro to home stereo systems • Introduction to Audio Components | Lifewire • Zeos Tutorials, Diagrams and Videos • Guide to Home Audio • AverageJoeAudiophile's Guides
Home Theater: r/HTBuyingGuides FAQ • How to Set Up a Basic Home Theater System - Lifewire • How to Set Up Your Home Theater Receiver • r/hometheater
Speaker Positioning: Speaker Placement for Stereo Music Listening • How to position your speakers for great sound • Speaker Placement for Home Theater
TV Positioning: Vertically centered at eye level while seated
So for those bummed out about this and are looking for alternatives here are a few options
I would recommend using a RPi2 or RPI3 rather than the zero.
check out these subreddits for more info
r/retropie
r/recalbox (my personal favorite os for emulation)
r/lakka
amazon fire tv
Nvidia shield tv
Emtec gembox
look on craigslist for old computers you can usually find one under $50 that will work just fine
both lakka os and recalbox os have x86 ports that run fine on desktop
i also recommend a bluetooth adapter and a 8bitdo controller
check out r/3dshacks for that
edit: formatting
Unfortunately Amazon will likely not support chromecast, since it is currently pusshing it's Fire TV
such bullshit, this exact mount has been $15 for YEARS (not to mention that every other < 27" display mount on Amazon is $15-20). I've bought several.
http://camelcamelcamel.com/VideoSecu-Monitor-Articulating-Bracket-ML10B/product/B000ID7QNI
you could go on any amazon page and find some bullshit MSRP mark down to make the actual price look better than it is.
FWIW, these are still a pretty good way to go. Absolutely do not purchase one that uses a "ball joint" where the arm meets the monitor. It is impossible to get those fixed where you want them.
http://techcrunch.com/2014/04/02/live-blog-from-amazons-big-media-console-event/
It's basically an Apple TV but in an open ecosystem, based on Android. Also has a remote, a separate game controller and a dedicated GPU so the Plex experience will likely be better than the Android app.
$100, shipping today.
Product page is live on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CX5P8FC
WD TV LIVE will work great but it is $80 not sure if that is too much for you.
That's what I thought. Here it is again straight from the app.
NVIDIA SHIELD TV Streaming Media Player [2017 Version] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N1NT9Y6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KdjzzbPPYPY9S
Ofertas previas al viernes afro:
De nada...
It has Plex support.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GDQ0RMG/?sa-no-redirect=1
Scroll down to all the logos.
Oh man, I second the call to bring this to the US. Since I don't subscribe to cable/satellite, I had to get a Mediasonic HD tuner in order to use the xbox one live TV funcionality. This would be a much more elegant solution....
>This will be my first home theater setup, so it doesn't have to be the most insane sound quality
Why are you looking for 5.2 then?
Also, you probably want to stay away from HTIB if you're look for something that looks and sounds good.
$160 Receiver
$290 Energy Take Classic 5.1
If you're really concerned about bass, you're probably going to need to up your budget, these guys are pretty well regarded
If you want to spend more on speakers, these are solid intro to home theater speakers too (at $112 per speaker for L/R + $350 for a center channel) and I'd skimp on the surrounds and just buy whatever's cheap
I picked up the WDTV Live about 2.5 years ago and it's worked flawlessly. It plays every file I've thrown at it so far which is exactly why I bought it. It also has a ton of 'apps' but I've never tried using any of them so I can't comment on that. I don't think the WDTV Live is well-received around here for some reason though.
PS4.
Now, keep in the mind that I greatly preferred the Xbox 360 over the PS3.
I don't trust Microsoft anymore. They showed that they actively tried to fuck over the consumers. They planned to implement several things that hurt the gaming experience and screwed the player in order to have as much control as possible over how you spend your money. They only reneged on all of that after everyone lashed out at them. They had dominance over the last generation and sought to use their name brand to force people to eat their hyper controlling garbage.
Meanwhile Sony learned from their missteps and mistakes from the PS3 and is doing much better in their approach to the PS4. Sony became the more consumer friendly and trustworthy one. Imagine that.
Beyond that, the PS4 performs better.
But, really, both of the current gen consoles are medium to medium low gaming PCs. Seriously, they're using mostly standard PC parts now. Which will also make ports to the PC much, much easier. And many games on both consoles are capped at 720P @ 30 fps while some are able to get 720P upscaled to 1080P @ 60 FPS. Meanwhile PCs are doing 1080P - 4K @ 60 -120 fps.
Plus, the indie gaming scene is so much better on PC. There are lots of seriously great small titles to be had. And Steam/GoG sales. Oh, yes. And there's always emulation for older games from NES through PS2.
For the record, I have ~15 consoles throughout the years and 2 gaming PCs. My only "current gen" consoles is the Wii U as I can't justify the other 2 right now.
Edit:
> I also work in IT so staring at a computer screen on top of my 9 hour workdays would probably drive me crazy.
So hook a PC up to your TV. It's what I do. I sit on my couch with either a wireless keyboard and mouse or a Xbox 360 Windows controller with my PC hooked to my big screen TV and surround sound system. And as for the size, a mid tower isn't much bigger than either console. And if you want to keep the PC away from the TV you can just get a wireless transmitter to send the HDMI signal to the TV. My PC sits next to my TV. I haven't used a computer desk in years.
Realistic 10,000: Pay debt and tuition.
Fantasy 10,000:
Astro A50's + case = $320
Dooney and Bourke Bag = $368.00
7 day trip to Spain with round trip airfare = 1,999.00 per ticket + 3,500 additional expenses = $5,500
Epic sushi dinner celebration for family of four = $250
Roundtrip flight tickets to korea for my mum who misses her family very much = $1,500 per ticket + 1,500 additional spending moneys = $3,000
The Last of Us = $60
Bioshock Infinite = $35
PS4 = $400
Assortment of alcohol = $200
Baggie of ganja = $117
This was fun to do and totally killed my production level at work, thanks for the giveaway and prompt SpaceWorX!
http://www.amazon.com/Amazon-CL1130-Fire-TV/dp/B00CX5P8FC/ref=sr_tr_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1396454513&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=firetv
$99 and has a video showing the UI and some features.
Samsung UN105S9 Curved 105-Inch 4K Ultra HD 120Hz 3D Smart LED TV
Oh, they're way ahead of you.
Wow. I just ordered the Mattel one. I had no idea this existed until your comment. Thanks!
Edit: links.
https://www.google.com/get/cardboard/get-cardboard/
http://www.amazon.com/View-Master-Virtual-Reality-Starter-Pack/dp/B011EG5HJ2
I've been doing some research as well. It seems like the favorite entry level is the Viewmaster by Mattel. If you want something more higher end, go for the Freefly VR
55" is available on Amazon now! Delivery is set for Monday, the 30th!
So you got this tv, correct? How is it? Been looking at it and want to make sure it's good. Good to hear that certain things on Rtings are over exaggerated.
TCL 55P607 55-Inch 4K Ultra HD Roku Smart LED TV (2017 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y6FSV5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KwrWzbAWDM6DS
The $289.98 bundle in the US with 1 TB of storage, Forza 6, Halo 5, Halo Wars 2, and ReCore would be a great bundle for people looking to get their first Xbox with fun console exclusives right now. Heck, I almost jumped on it to give my old 500 GB console to a friend so we can play online together. But ultimately I went with this TV:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MYGISTO/ref=ya_st_dp_summary?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Which will ship well before the Xbox One X arrives so that's fine. Then I'll preorder the X at GameStop (at some point this century please), give my fat OG to my friend when it releases with the 7th, and all will be right with the world.
> nvidia shield game
Is it really worth $200? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N1NT9Y6
edit there's a pro for $300 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MYV94H3
I highly recommend TCL P series. Awesome tv for gaming. Should be around $600-650. Has ratings that match $1000+ TVs. I’ve had this tv for almost a year now and it’s been awesome. Make sure it is the P series (there will be a P in the model number).
TCL 55P607 55-Inch 4K Ultra HD Roku Smart LED TV (2017 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y6FSV5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kU0VBbZ2H8JNN
Absolutely. Get 4K. But I would also do HDR. It makes as big of a difference as 4K.
For the money, for a gaming TV, you can’t beat the TCL P Series.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06Y6FSV5Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522968082&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=tcl+p+series&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51jMb13MKML&amp;ref=plSrch
Hey. I could write a lot about this thing but it's really simple. I bought the P series 55' TV from Amazon almost a month ago with a PS4 Pro at $650 (150 off from $800). The deal is still going on on Amazon.
So here's what's up. This TV is bloody fucking brilliant. So let me break it down a bit--
PSPRO Features: I've used a 50 inch Vizio with my PS4 for two years and I've played on other friend's very nice set-ups. I've been blown away with this. I pulled up Battlefield 1 after the recent HDR update and I was absorbed into the game after taking a break for a few months because it felt like an entirely different game--like PC level graphics and speed. Uncharted 4 is gorgeous. Games like Rainbow Six Siege have proven to me that the input lag is non-existent. Since the PSPRO can use my 5 gHz wi-fi channel as opposed to the 2.4gHz that the PS4 uses, download times are avg. 35 MB per second and upload 8-12 MB per second. It's a mix of the PRO, TV, and Internet, but my ping sits around 60 and I'm winning 1v1 firefights in Siege (not feeling cheated when it felt like I puled the trigger quickly enough). Seeing what HDR does for BF1 and Uncharted, I couldn't possibly go back to non-HDR knowing that future games are going to be using it. Boost Mode looks great as well. I pulled up Doom and holy shit that game's colors just POP. On my old 50' Vizio, I would have trouble making out players hidden in the dark or laying down with dead bodies in Rainbow 6 Siege, but this TV has really changed that. Battlefield 1 has such a clear picture of soldiers so far away that I would never have been able to make out before.
Smart Features: I was wary of "smart TVs" but this thing has sold me. I signed up for Sling TV and a bunch of other free apps, including my Netflix, Prime, and Hulu. If I hit the search button on the remote and speak any show or movie into the remote, it will find it for me for free or for some small price on some sort of service. I love that feature, so I've cut my cable and now just pay 40ish dollars for Sling, Netflix, HBO, Hulu, PrimeVideo--along with a lot of other really cool apps like the History Vault or The Great Courses Plus for a host of great lectures. Also, I no longer use my PS4 for movies etc. anymore because you can just control the volume and everything through the smart remote as well as use the voice search function to find anything across every app and service out there (even if you haven't downloaded them yet).
Visual: I can't believe this thing costs 650 (although it is 800, the deal is still going on Amazon as of the time I write this). It looks just as good as anything in the 1000 dollar range. I haven't had to change much of the factory settings, everything they say in the reviews are true. All I can really say is that there is nothing negative to say about the picture at all. Colors are true, beautiful, deep blacks, no pixelation, bright, you name it.
Sound: I can't speak much for the sound. I've got mine hooked up to a 5.1 surround system that works perfectly. The TV is able to pick up on the signal from the game or the movie and will signal my receiver to change to Dolby Digital or EXT. STEREO etc. So I don't ever have to pick up the audio remote, the TV just reads the signal and changes it for me accordingly (or how I set it to change). Same goes with HDR signal etc. The TV will pick up on the signal and change accordingly.
Hardware: I thought the remote was a joke, being a roku remote. But, as I mentioned earlier, it rules. It has a Netflix/Hulu/SlingTV button if I want to swing to one of those quickly. Has an aux input if you want to put on headphones. I can speak into it and it will find nearly any show or movie. If I lose the remote, you push a button on the TV and the remote will beep until you find it. It has 3 HDMI ports which is plenty, thanks to ARC. I use one for my PS4 PRO, one for my computer, and the ARC one to connect to my ARC HDMI in my audio receiver which makes things SO much easier.
Other stuff/Future Proofing: The TV is amazing. I can't recommend it enough for the price. You've also got antenna on there if you want basic channels for sports or news etc. For gaming, this is completely future proof. Who knows how many years, but it has all of its bases covered.
Greatest TV I've ever owned. Amazon has it on sale for 650 right now. I've got a true theatrical experience in my man cave now. Along with my PSPro, I feel like I have a whole new experience with Destiny 2, BF1, Uncharted, Doom now. If you've got a Pro, you should get this TV. And you should get the P series 55 inch.
Anyways, if you have any questions, just ask.
Looks like it is also on sale on Amazon. About $15 difference between eBay and Amazon.
That must be that $120,000 Samsung TV.
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN105S9-Curved-105-Inch-Ultra/dp/B00L403O8U
Like this $120,000 one? The joke customer reviews are priceless.
r u serious trying to sell a 40 product on here for 85. A 3 year old can load kodi
https://www.amazon.com/All-New-Fire-TV-Stick-With-Alexa-Voice-Remote-Streaming-Media-Player/dp/B00ZV9RDKK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486246684&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=amazon+fire+stick
List of video services, from the product page.
Amzon Fire Stick for $25, great deal considering they sell for $30-40 used:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GDQ0RMG/
802.11a/b/g/n. At least we get 2.4GHz/5GHz.
So close!
The Mediasonic Homework HW180STB is a tuner with HDMI output so you can watch HD OTA on any HDMI-equipped device.
https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-Homeworx-HW180STB-Converter-Recording/dp/B00IYETYX8/
If you're looking for just a tuner and no DVR on a single TV, it doesn't get cheaper than this; it's ~$30. I did read your post, and I know you said there isn't much room, but it's not much larger than a Roku. All depends on the cost vs. space argument. If nothing else, people searching that find this post in the future will have it as an option.
Amazon’s new Fire TV Stick 4K is effectively replacing the company’s Fire TV with 4K Ultra HD, which the company introduced last year. “We have sold through the earlier Fire TV 4K edition inventory and we do not plan to replenish supply at this time,” says a spokesperson.
Pre-order HERE. Official release is October 31st.
Features & details
Experience tens of thousands of channels, apps, and Alexa skills, plus millions of websites like YouTube, Facebook, and Reddit.
Specs
For a limited time, save $10 when you purchase two Fire TV Stick 4K devices. To redeem this offer, add two Fire TV Stick 4K to your cart and enter promo code TWOPACK at checkout.
Oh no, I'm not falling for that again. First they had their $120,000 105" 4K curved TV and now this? :)
Currently I'm using this which is overkill for these speakers, but I got it for a good price and I wanted something that could comfortably power beefier speakers down the line.
The old recommendation was to get a Lepai 2020a, but since those no-longer use the Tripath chips, I'd go with something like the SMSL SA36 or SA50.
[Yes] (https://www.amazon.com/NVIDIA-SHIELD-TV-Streaming-Media-Player/dp/B01N1NT9Y6)
https://www.amazon.com/TCL-55P607-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B06Y6FSV5Q/ref=sr_1_3?s=tv&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503270967&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=tcl
Since I'm fairly new to this topic, could you explain what some of the features they leave out of this tv vs the higher end Sony, Samsung, and LG tvs might have? Is it signal processing, frame rate, etc?
Looking at this one:
TCL 55P607 55-Inch 4K Ultra HD Roku Smart LED TV (2017 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y6FSV5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cyQVzbFSSAGHS
It's actually $179, exactly like Apple TV 4K that OP bought.
why not an nvidia shield? or he want to also PC game? Nvidia shield TV
https://www.amazon.com/TCL-65R617-65-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B079N9HDNQ
Stay away from those home theater in a box units. Something like these Energy 5.1 speakers with a receiver will sound a lot better.
If you want some more info and recommendations check out /r/zeos
That's certainly a valid choice. I'll make it even easier for you. Here's a straight link without any affiliate codes to the PS4.
A few things:
Further reading.
Tell her to buy a fire stick from Amazon. It is less than $40. She can get Netflix and all kinds of games and apps.
From the product page: "Fire TV Stick cannot be powered directly by your HDTV and should be plugged into your wall."
Probably due to more powerful hardware than the Chromecast (love that it does Miracast receiving), but having to plug it into the wall is inconvenient. They always gloss over this part - Chromecast did too, but luckily it can be TV USB powered. May still be worth it to those who are going to set it up and forget about it or don't regularly have access to TV USB ports anyway.
http://amzn.com/B00GDQ0RMG (in the "Simple to set up" part)
You want a PVR. It takes the signal and gives you an HDMI out that you can connect into the XBox One. The cable from your college isn't encrypted since it is meant to plug into your TV so any of the OTA options that have an HDMI out would probably work, but the one below looks like your best bet. You can check /r/cordcutters for other options, but some of them require an app which XBox One just doesn't have yet. You also won't be able to get a proper XBox One TV Guide as your college probably doesn't broadcast channel information.
http://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-HW-150PVR-HomeWorx-Converter-Recording/dp/B00I2ZBD1U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408993503&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=pvr
For the OTA antenna, if your TV is old enough, you're going to need a digital to analog converter box, maybe something like this. Your TV has an analog tuner inside, so it needs additional hardware to translate the digital signals that local stations are broadcasting.
Otherwise, since NBC is streaming the game, maybe you can use Internet Explorer to access their coverage? Not sure how you could check that in advance, however.
I believe this should work:
https://smile.amazon.com/Mediasonic-Homeworx-HW180STB-Converter-Recording/dp/B00IYETYX8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467242980&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=hdtv+tuner+hdmi
Even though it say's it doesn't work with cable, I believe they just mean encrypted cable.
Just a few more things that may improve your experience for minimal cost (if these features matter to you):
https://www.cnet.com/news/roku-tvs-can-now-pause-live-over-the-air-tv/
https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-Homeworx-HW180STB-Converter-Recording/dp/B00IYETYX8.
It lets you make manual recordings of antenna channels (once, daily, weekly). It does require plugging in your own usb storage. It will show up to 2 days of guide data (whatever the station is broadcasting over the air), but I just use manual recording times (mostly for recording Jeopardy), so this isn't and issue. Another positive, is that the recordings can be taken right off the USB drive if you want to save them somewhere else (they aren't encrypted or anything).
Hope this help some!
The Fire Stick was on sale for $20 recently, and is only $39 now. Amazon also claims much better specs over a Chromecast, if you're into that.
If you scroll down you can see a comparison chart:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GDQ0RMG?ie=UTF8&amp;at=&amp;force-full-site=1&amp;ref_=aw_bottom_links
But it's basically the same thing but the stick has a remote and you can play games on it. Like flappy bird...WOOO just what I needed
I been using a Mediasonic HW-150PVR, nothing fancy, you get some Channel Guide and Recording features but they're not that good. But if all you want is an OTA HD Tuner with HDMI Output you're good to go.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I2ZBD1U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UykrxbKNNT6YY
http://amzn.com/B00I2ZBD1U
Like this?
Mediasonic Homeworx HW180STB 3 / 4 Channel HDTV Digital Converter Box with Recording and Media Player (New Version) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IYETYX8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rmR0xbZMQBM76
The Monoprice 5.1 Channel Home Theater Satellite Speakers & Subwoofer for 69 bucks with a decent receiver is going to sound better than most soundbars out there.
Having said that, I have a Klipsch RSB-14 that works great in my bedroom.
Music only, turntable primary, pretty large room, no size restrictions, rock/jass/blues and $450 max budget.
Here is what I would consider.
Amp choice - Pick one
Speakers - Pick one option
Sub (if you want one..don't think you need one straight away) - Dayton Sub-1000 $110 currently on sale.
If you don't go with the sub and AVR you should only need a set of RCA cables for the TT and some speaker wire to get going. If you go with the AVR you'll want a sub cable for the Dayton.
Go used.
Do this and only this.
Get a pair of Infinity Primus P140/P142/P143 on ebay. These are great little bookshelf speakers. Or the p150/p152/p153. Which ever pair you find cheaper is fine as the sub will make up for the lower frequencies.
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-1500-15-150-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-634
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Infinity-Primus-HCS-SAT-Pair-Of-Speakers-Black-With-Covers-Quality-Sound-Heavy-/112537557722?hash=item1a33c2dada:g:GqgAAOSwyI5ZnYYO
Then get one of these subs.
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-1200-12-120-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-629
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-1500-15-150-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-634
Then if all you need is basic desktop use get this amp
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC/
if that is breaking the budget get this,
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-SA-36A-TPA3118D2-Amplifier-Black/dp/B017W13OR0/
You'll have a killer 2.1 desktop set up. Now go do it right now.
I just got a TCL for $300 and called it a day. I don't have a Pro but I might get one, but it's been great. Good ratings for video games, especially on a budget, for video games on rtings.
Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!
Here are your smile-ified links:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MYGISTO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
---
Never forget to smile again | ^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly&nbsp;bot
So did Amazon leak the price of the new Shield and the release date?
$199.99 and January 16th. Kind of disappointed that they didn't lower the price.
https://www.amazon.com/NVIDIA-SHIELD-TV-Streaming-Media-Player/dp/B01N1NT9Y6
Also note how Amazon Video is shown in the list of apps in the picture below.
According to Amazon, it comes out on January 16, with a Pro version releasing at the end of the month.
https://www.amazon.com/NVIDIA-SHIELD-TV-Streaming-Media-Player/dp/B01N1NT9Y6
Not going to lie, I'd much rather have a new Portable, though.TCL is the number 3 tv maker worldwide( just started in the usa in 2015-2016), Number 1 in china for years, the make their own components in the tv so they dont have to source parts, thats why they are so much cheaper( AND THINNER) than everyone else on the market but have SUPER HIGH END features like dolby vision and roku tv guide. And for gaming the P607 and p605 are one of the best on the market test at 15ms with game mode off and 6.5ms with game mode on... its a no brainier, 4k HDR, Doly vision( which is better than hdr) 55 inch at 650$, sold...
Ya i just recently bought one, amazon has them on 2-3 month back order, but buy it now and itll be here before xbox 1 x is out.. If u look in store make sure u look for the P series only, its the performance line and has the lowest input lag..
TCL 55P607 55-Inch 4K Ultra HD Roku Smart LED TV (2017 Model)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y6FSV5Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
CamelCamelCamel says this is matching the best price it's ever been historically, but if you have Amazon Prime it was offered for $24.99 back during Prime Day. It could potentially go lower than this on BF, as it's now a year-old model. Last holiday season it was the new Amazon Fire TV device. This year they have the updated FireTV Cube.
Amazon fire TV stick 4k says it supports HRD10+.
I’ve come to understand the first gen cube performance is… lacking.
Would recommend a 4K stick instead, it’s on sale for $25.
https://www.amazon.com/Fire-TV-Stick-4K-with-Alexa-Voice-Remote/dp/B079QHML21?th=1&amp;psc=1
Nah that one sucks. Get this one instead. FREE PRIME SHIPPING!!!
Link. There are loads of hilarious reviews.
Our current Cox bill is $84 because we do internet only.
If he'd able to get the hang of using a firestick or chromecast, you could hook him up with a Netflix and Hulu account and he could have more options than he'd know what to do with (and get some bunny ears for his TV so he could still watch local news, PBS, sports etc).
May not be the answer you're looking for, but it's a very good way of cutting that bill in half!
Fire Stick $29.99 ($39.99 normally)
You should try the Mattel view master it's amazing http://www.amazon.com/View-Master-Virtual-Reality-Starter-Pack/dp/B011EG5HJ2
I'm using a 5.2" screen but I just received a Viewmaster VR that works well with my Nexus 5x. I have only had a little while to check it out but for $20, I can't see any problems with that at that price point. I believe it works with most screens between 5" and 6" and mine came with an adapter for the iPhone 5. I looked at reviews and it seems the negative ratings are related to the Viewmaster apps and experience packs that come with it. I had no intention to use those so I can only recommend based on the cardboard experience which is decent so far.
https://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Articulating-Monitor-Bracket-ML10B/dp/B000ID7QNI/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492261732&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=monitor+bracket
There mate basically identical just a different name.
Try the Energy Take 5.1 system, looks to be around the same price or a little less at $300, lot of bang for your buck - https://www.amazon.com/Energy-Classic-Theater-System-Black/dp/B001202C44
I installed a set of those in my living room recently and they're completely fantastic.
Do you require surround right now? With a budget of only $1000, I'd recommend starting off with just the receiver and your main L/R speakers. Alternatively, if you really want surround, I wouldn't go with any of those sets. The avr you chose is fine, but I'd recommend getting several pairs of behringer b2030p speakers (they aren't pretty, but they are very capable & well built) - http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/home-audio-speakers/23642-thoughts-behringer-studio-monitors-2030-others-active-passive.html
Infinity P162s would be another good option at $85 each.
Subwoofer recommendations depend on the volume of your room, but after getting the behringers or infinitys you have no more money for a sub. If you want to stick with a small, compact 5.1 set like the ones you listed above, I'd recommend the energy take classic 5.1 system. Amazon has it for $400: http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Classic-Theater-System-Black/dp/B001202C44/
Also, you can easily downgrade the receiver to a cheaper model to go with any of the speakers listed in your first post or the ones I recommended and you wouldn't miss anything. However, if you do plan on doing major upgrades to your speakers in the next couple years, I'd recommend sticking with something with preouts like the pioneer you chose so you can add external amplification.
Sorry if this isn't what you're looking for but why not buy a media player with a NAS and a decent DAC?
You would have iPhone/Remote control, it would be fairly quiet, cheaper, and less of a hassle than a PC.
What kind of connection does it use from there? If you can put a cable box by the existing socket, you can use an HDMI Wireless Transmitter to send the signal to the TV without the tangle of the cord.
Otherwise, I think you'd be best either running it through the wall, running it under baseboard if it'll fit, or getting a thin/low profile cable and an area rug and running it under that (note that you can ONLY do this with low voltage data cables - running power cables this way is a huge fire hazard).
If you do have to run it along the baseboards, will it need to cross any doorways? I've hidden cable run around the perimeter of the room in the past just using strategically located furniture and decorations.
The Nyrius ARIES Prime. It'll work on any device with HDMI out, and it requires a USB connection for power on the sending client. If you have devices with mini-HDMI or mini-DP, get adapters for them. We're using these in at least 3 places, and as long as you're within 50' or so, you're good to go.
Sold here, on Amazon
No, it does not come with the eye.
Source: http://www.amazon.com/PlayStation-4-Standard-Edition/dp/B00CMQTVQO/ref=sr_tr_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1371092230&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=playstation+4
"PlayStation 4 Camera (sold separately) incorporates two high-sensitive cameras with wide-angle lenses to precisely recognize the depth of space"
Also, people neglect the fact that the Xbox will be a dvr able cablebox pairing media unit as well.
short answer is why not? and they are mounted to the wall with some cheap mounts from amazon
link here
For speakers, I love the Energy Take 5 system for $400. You can get it without the sub for $200. I have the original from 12 years ago and it is still going strong. Mine was $1000 at the time and is made in Canada, the new ones are made in China. I would look and see if you can find some of the Canadian ones used someplace. When they first came out, many home theater magazines had them beating systems that cost over 2k.
First I think it's a great that you want to help out the BF in upgrading your entertainment system.
One idea: I bought this great 5-speaker setup for $400 Energy 5.1 a few years ago and have been very pleased with it. They are now $300 from Amazon.
Pair that with this Onkyo $200 receiver from NewEgg and that's a pretty nice setup.
But if you are nervous about this, you can punt the decision by giving your BF cash and having him do the agonizing over where to best put the funds.
Edit - I now see the Energy 5.1's are back up to $400, only a week ago they were $300... Hmm.
You didn't indicate what the source was (do you watch DVDs via something called an HDMI cable, or BluRay disks?) but the receiver can handle quite a variety of inputs etc.
An AVR with HDMI input and 6 channel pre-out for that kind of setup would cost more than what replacing that setup with something straightforward would be.
Cheapest unit I know with full surround pre-out is the Denon AVR-X3300W. $1000.
https://usa.denon.com/us/product/hometheater/receivers/avrx3300w
Meanwhile a Denon AVRS530BT is $230 and an entry level 5.1 speaker kit is $300.
https://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVRS530BT-Channel-Ultra-Receiver/dp/B06XYD1RZ3
https://www.amazon.com/Energy-Classic-Theater-System-Black/dp/B001202C44
If you really want to use those Philips speakers you will need a USB sound card that does 5.1 output. Keep in mind these don't handle decoding, you need the playback application to do that.
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Blaster-Surround-System-SB1095/dp/B0044DEDCA
Something like that could work, you just need breakout 3.5mm cables so you have RCA for each rear channel, the center, and the sub.
I bought my parents a WDTV (Western Digital TV). It plays every type of video/audio format I've given it. It has HDMI and two USB ports. It plays Hulu, Netflix, YouTube, Amazon. And it only costs $85 on Amazon (ironically).
http://www.amazon.com/Live-Media-Player-Wi-fi-1080p/dp/B005KOZNBW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1396453724&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=wd+tv
The linked product is exactly what you need. They push the video streaming aspect because that's the reason most folks would buy something like this. It's just displaying whatever's on your desktop.
If you look near the bottom of the page there's blurb:
>The Diamond V-Stream Wireless USB HD A/V Adapter Set enables users to display their notebook/PC content, such as pictures, movies, presentations, office documents, web content and other types of data, on a larger remote display, share it with others or enjoy a larger size display without any cable limitations. Wireless USB connectivity is enabled by attaching the PC Adapter to the PC/notebook, connecting the external display to HD A/V Base and plugging the Device Adapter into the HD A/V Base. The HD A/V Base and Device Adapter receive power from an external powersupply connected to the HD A/V Base.
I'd be concerned about the reviews of this particular item though. This one is a lot more money but has many more, and better, reviews: Nyrius ARIES
None of the launch edition bundles are currently available on Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/PlayStation-4-PS4-Standard-Edition/dp/B00CMQTVQO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1374620054&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ps4
(link is for standard edition PS4 but you're able to check the availability of the others from there)
I'm in the same boat as you.
If you go onto the actual product page they have added a small "product alert" line that says:
All orders for the Watch Dogs PlayStation 4 bundle will keep their place in line and we will fulfil the PlayStation 4 (without the Watch Dogs game) in accordance with your current delivery estimate. We are working on adjusting these orders and will update you as soon as we know more.
same as everybody else, I just wanted my PS4, regardless of the game.
The Vizio P55-F1 is my current Value Recommendation for Televisions :)
$749 at Best Buy Currently
If not that, the TCL R617 55" is also a Killer Value
$622 on Amazon
The newly announced (this morning) fire tv stick, supports Dolby Vision, HDR10+, and Dolby Atmos for $50. https://www.amazon.com/Stick-all-new-Remote-streaming-player/dp/B079QHML21/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&ref_=ods_gw_dg1_smp_mt_100318
It is not bad but does not have local dimming for HDR.
https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/tcl/5-series-2018-s517
If you went down to the 55" you could get the 6 series which is better image quality for $650
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079N9HDNQ
https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/tcl/6-series-2018-r617
But if the larger size is more important than HDR to you, that's fine too.
Checking out RTings.com for good reviews.
edit - at that price point, I would also consider the Vizio E Series 2018 - 65" for $700-$730 (E65-F1)
Wait, what? It is right here on the chart: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CX5P8FC/ref=amb_link_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=gateway-center-column&amp;pf_rd_r=1MMKW95DGZ57VGPZ2BFM&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=1770051702&amp;pf_rd_i=507846
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GDQ0RMG/ref=nav_shopall_k_tv_stick
Amazon and Sony are the two companies that wont see my money as they used to.
I dropped cable for free over the air antennae and get more channels than I did with cable and save a few hundred a year too!
But I need a tuner like this to watch TV through my Xbox One. Although, was thinking of a different tuner with PVR Functions.
Like This:http://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-HW-150PVR-HomeWorx-Converter-Recording/dp/B00I2ZBD1U/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1407426604&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=dvr+with+tuner
Almost no projectors have coax inputs with TV tuners built into them. You would buy the projector and tuner separate and then hook them up with HDMI.
Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-HW-150PVR-HomeWorx-Converter-Recording/dp/B00I2ZBD1U
(I have no idea if that one is good, just first I found)
Yeah, that's your problem then. A 10+ year old set would only have an NTSC tuner most likely. You can get a special STB to tune those channels for you. You can get them from Amazon for ~$30. Here's one:
http://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-HW-150PVR-HomeWorx-Converter-Recording/dp/B00I2ZBD1U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408599230&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=digital+set+top+box
if i am reading this correctly, u somehow broke the coax antenna input onto the back of the tv.
If this is a case, a set top box would fix your problem. Input the cable into the receiver, and output via hdmi into the tv.
Here's onei own several of and like: http://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-HW-150PVR-HomeWorx-Converter-Recording/dp/B00I2ZBD1U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417500017&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=homework+150
Better option
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-SA-36A-TPA3118D2-Amplifier-Black/dp/B017W13OR0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501266701&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=sa36
Don't listen to people telling you that you can't get anything for that budget. It won't be perfect and you won't get a dedicated sub for that price, but if you start small you can start with a very good base to upgrade from. Get a simple amp such as this 2 channel SMSL amp for £43 from Amazon, and pair it with these Tannoy Eclipse Mini bookshelves from Richer Sounds. (You'll also need some speaker wire which you can order from Richer Sounds too.) It won't replicate a full 5.1 system but for the money the quality will be hard to beat, and when the time comes you can upgrade at your own pace to a much better setup. From there you can upgrade first to a cheap 5.1 receiver, then some towers and move the Tannoy's to rears, and eventually a centre and a sub and you'll have a decent system while minimising waste.
The best 4k TV right now is TCL 49S405 49-Inch 4K Ultra HD Roku Smart LED TV (2017 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYGISTO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-RWaAb02VKAGN It has all the features you need (4k,120hz,HDR). It's a fantastic TV and it's really affordable. I'd recommend this anything over a samsung.
Seriously, you are back spamming this sub
Why ?
No one cares what you think and we already know these boxes
I suggest no one click on the links and if you find it interesting, just search the brand name in Amazon.
Clearly TVA is running low on cash and is trying to get links from people who don't know
Edit: non referral links
https://www.amazon.com/NVIDIA-SHIELD-Gaming-Streaming-GeForce/dp/B01N1NT9Y6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=Nvidia+shield+tv&amp;qid=1558746780&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
https://www.amazon.com/Fire-TV-Cube-hands-free-with-Alexa-and-4K-Ultra-HD-and-Alexa-Voice-Remote/dp/B0791T9CV7
https://www.amazon.ca/Stick-All-New-Remote-streaming-player/dp/B079QH9GG7/ref=asc_df_B079QH9GG7/?tag=googlemobshop-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=312934292108&amp;hvpos=1o1&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=4406584219094669982&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9000828&amp;hvtargid=pla-637995568699&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Original-Xiaomi-Box-Streaming-International/dp/B075QD7HRW
https://www.amazon.ca/Octa-Core-Android-Directly-Technology-Limited/dp/B06WGNY9L2
Enjoy everyone. No referrals on my links.
Adam:. Your one downvote doesn't mean shit
Just incase you don't already know, I cannot recommend this TV enough - https://www.amazon.com/TCL-55P607-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B06Y6FSV5Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504023150&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=p607
Right now, it is the best budget 4k TV on the market. I've owned it for a month now and absolutely love it.
Came to post this, but it's already here. Link for any lazy folk: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RXV2VR/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_1cW4BbKVNBTAJ
Super stylish.
Then you can bring along your camera, film some sweet video, take some nice selfies, then go home and watch it on your sweet TV and hooking the camera up with you diamond HDMI camble
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L403O8U/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_n38Oub0RYMFMX
Get this, and this, along with some basic a/v cables, and you should be set.
Amazon says that 4K streaming requires at least a 15 Mbps connection. Streaming at exactly 15 Mbps for 1 hour comes to 6.75 GB, so the "about 6.84 GB per hour" estimate you're seeing on your laptop is probably for 4K video. Amazon recommends at least 3.5 Mbps connection for 720p HD video, which comes to about 1.5 GB per hour. Double that to about 3 GB per hour for 1080p.
Of course, this can vary greatly depending on what you're watching because the streams use a variable bitrate, not a fixed bitrate. Videos with many small and fast moving components, like rain, will use a lot more bandwidth than videos with many static images, like a space documentary. The values of 1.5 GB, 3 GB, and 6.75 GB per hour for 720p, 1080p, and 4K are likely the minimum amounts to expect, since those values correlate to the lowest connection requirements for each stream quality.
If you're concerned about bandwidth usage, be sure you're using a streaming device that supports HEVC H.265 video decoding. Such a device will consume less bandwidth than an older device that only supports H.264, while producing the same image quality.
The current (2nd-gen) Fire TV Stick is a good option for a low-cost HEVC H.265 device. Amazon also added new quality settings and bandwidth monitoring last year to all Fire TV models. They let you reduce the quality setting from "Best" to "Better" which will reduce the bandwidth usage by almost half without affecting the image quality much. You can drop the quality to "Good" for a 90% reduction in bandwidth usage, but the image is noticeably worse. You can also set a bandwidth limit in the OS so that it warns you, or even cuts you off, when you exceed a certain amount. You can also set what day of the month your billing cycle resets, so that the bandwidth tracker automatically resets.
The only people that are still stuck with personal desktops and laptops are students, engineers / developers, and hardcore gamers. Engineers and developers don't need to be sold on Linux. Students are just going to use whatever is already installed on their University mandated laptop. And hardcore gamers are locked into Windows because it's more convenient than dual booting, keeping two versions of Steam installed and still not being able to play half of your games because of Wine incompatibilities, or GPU passthrough.
Desktops and laptops aren't dead, but they've certainly retired to the dual status of office equipment and hobbyist toy.
Heres a Fire Stick
It's the same price on Amazon delivered via Prime.
https://www.amazon.com/View-Master-Virtual-Reality-Starter-Pack/dp/B011EG5HJ2/
This will depend on what you want to do. For gaming the Gear VR is best, for a basic headset I bought the Mattel View Master and I like it. No strap, no access to headphone port so you would want Bluetooth headphones, but it's a real nice sturdy head set. It also comes with a little augmented reality disk that's pretty neat.
You can get a View-Master for $25. Much higher quality than any Cardboard that is actually made out of cardboard. No head-strap though (although you might be able to mod one on).
Also the magnet works with the magnetometer (ie compass), not NFC. And Cardboard V2 doesn't use the magnet, instead it uses a lever to tap on the screen.
I'm not sure why you're going to put away your NES? You just need to get yourself a nice TV with more inputs. I can't recommend THIS tv more highly. The clarity is amazing. I have it up on a couple of milk crates so I have enough room underneath for my NES, Dreamcast, SNES and, in pride of place, my Atari 2600!
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN105S9-Curved-105-Inch-Ultra/dp/B00L403O8U/ref=sr_1_1?s=tv&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417310913&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=4k+TV
As Do I buddy as Do I
Hey, I'm on board with that.
Also to do my job properly, I need to maintain good mental health and hygiene, which consists of several expensive hobbies, generous amounts of beer, the odd movie or so - on a large screen TV (still trying to get this one), dinner out every now and then, the odd vacation, a bigger house, a better and roomier vehicle, etc. etc.
Companies get to count equipment maintenance as an expense, so why shouldn't people get to do the same?
No - I'm not being facetious.
The fact is that business entities get incredible advantages that regular people don't.
If Bell gets to count maintenance fees as expenses, why can't regular people count aspirin and apples as a maintenance expense?
The truth is that there are no good reasons. The government massively favours the well-being of businesses over people. (And it doesn't matter who is in power.)
The rest of the reviews are funny as well.
Da barboni pure il tuo:
www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN105S9-Curved-105-Inch-Ultra/dp/B00L403O8U
Ovviamente, recensioni spassose
Psh
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00L403O8U/ref=pd_aw_sbs_6/180-8802759-0901214?pi=SS115&amp;simLd=1
There's a used one for only $18,000 dollars. I'm no financial expert, but I'd say that's a pretty good deal considering it's roughly 85% off...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00L403O8U/ref=dp_olp_used?ie=UTF8&amp;condition=used
http://imgur.com/YZ5c9rQ
Well, I'd be willing to buy them and mail them to you. The only hang-up being giving your address to an internet stranger.
Also, relating to our convo one comment up: you could try getting an Amazon Fire Stick or Chrome Cast. Then you could watch the YouTube versions without having to plug in your computer every time. Unless you have to use a VLAN or something to get access to the YouTube videos.
Also, if you have a DVD burner you could download the YouTube videos then burn them to a DVD.
I'm a big fan of the Amazon Fire Stick. It's $39.99 but runs an Android OS. You can sideload apps on it, which means you can install pretty much any Android app you'd like.
It's a little pricier, but I like the fact that it comes with a physical remote. Don't get me wrong, I love the Chromecast, especially for the price. Just wanted to drop another option in the mix for you.
fire sticks are on sale for 29.99
https://www.amazon.com/Amazon-Fire-TV-Stick-With-Alexa-Voice-Remote-Streaming-Media-Player/dp/B00ZV9RDKK
ends today so if you want it buy it now.
Okay, since you asked, I present "J's Other Purchases V. 1" (I'll answer other comments with other volumes):
Tired of constantly wearing through scrubber sponges and steel wools, I was surprised to encounter chainmail as a kitchen implement, but despite how odd it sounds, this was a Buy It For Life solution to all my stuck on, baked on food problems. I don't even have cast iron to use it on. I just use it on my regular dishes and it works the same as steel wool (actually a tiny bit better) and never, ever wears out. It gets gunky as anything, but I can just dishwash it back to clean. Fair warning though, it gets slippery to hold when wet.
When I travel, I bring along my Fire Stick which I much prefer to a Chromecast or a Roku Stick for a variety of reasons, almost all of them being that the Fire Stick runs on Android which is just Linux and if you know your way around either of those, as I do, then you are basically walking around with a spare computer - inefficient thought it may be to type with the remote. Anyway, rarely do I encounter televisions which are placed in a space where I can easily access the HDMI ports to plug my stick in, but they usually have a long HDMI cord coming off of them plugged in to something else like a cable box or a DVD player. Sadly, that cord has a male end and the Fire Stick has a male end so it would seem that it is just a cruel tease ... until ... this coupler which allows me to connect my Fire Stick to that long cord with ease.
Or a smart box. You can get this Amazon Fire Stick for only $40.
Well.....
Within your budget:
Viewmaster
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B011EG5HJ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1XeCxbMKD9AJ9
Slightly over your budget but a better headset:
I AM Cardboard DSCVR Headset
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B018G17K52/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IYeCxbTAHEVFK
Over budget but the best headset in its price range (button is a bit iffy on iPhones though for some reason)
BOBOVR VR Z4
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01CEBKXJK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_oZeCxb4ZVCA18
I own all of these, they all have the button and work with iPhones. I had to modify the button on the BoboVR to get it to work properly though.
The Viewmaster is ok, the field of view isn't great, and it looks a bit kiddy, but it is robust and has good clarity.
The DSCVR is pretty much just a plastic version of Cardboard 2.0, but sometimes the more straightforward the better, I found it very good, although the strap that holds the phone looks like it will wear overt time.
BoboVR is by far the best though all round, great comfort, great fov, adjustable lenses (which the other 2 don't have) and the headphones are actually really good.
View-Master VR Then figure out a way to diy a headband
edit: Or this one
I can't say much, I have a knockoff cardboard that i got for 3 bucks, but these both look to be decent.
Check out the View-Master. It fits the Nexus 6P perfectly (without a case - doesn't fit it with a case!).
That's all I got for you.
For 250 my recommendation would be a pair of Philharmonic Affordable Accuracy Monitors paired with a suitable amplifier. They're easily the best speakers I've used. Great imaging, very clear and detailed, and amazing bass for a 2.0 setup.
I got along with a basic Lepai amplifier with an upgraded power supply which did better than I expected to. Otherwise you could probably get away with an SMSL-SA36 if you're not blasting them.
For the money though, I bet you could find a used receiver for a great deal off your local craigslist.
I currently run them with an SMSL SA-160 which does an amazing job of driving them but would push you out of your budget.
Alternatively, I've also used the Micca MB42Xs paired with the same Lepai as above and it's a fantastic budget-oriented setup which doesn't take up too much space.
I got a amazon fire tv, $99. optional game controller also, $40. has free games and also some you can purchase. descent graphics, some games in HD.
-- link, http://www.amazon.com/Fire-TV-streaming-media-player/dp/B00CX5P8FC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1412237632&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=amazon+firetv
Shipping now and $99. Wishlisted. Now to convince the wife that we "need" one, heh.
http://amzn.com/B00CX5P8FC
I would not recommend giving your kids access to a computer that you need for your home business. How about a USB stick to let them watch Netflix on the TV?
https://www.amazon.com/Amazon-Fire-TV-Stick-Streaming-Media-Player/dp/B00GDQ0RMG
Potentially the fire tv stick coming out soon. $39, and it's very possible it will be similarly as easy to put xbmc on it as the fire tv. I'm excited about this thing. I think it may be a dual core processor, 1gb ram.
http://www.amazon.com/Amazon-W87CUN-Fire-TV-Stick/dp/B00GDQ0RMG
http://www.amazon.com/Amazon-W87CUN-Fire-TV-Stick/dp/B00GDQ0RMG#
This is pretty interesting and I haven't seen it before. From what I'm gathering, its like how we used to use VCRs? Plug in channel, start time, end time or just press record.
This look like what you are referring to, right? http://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-HW-150PVR-HomeWorx-Converter-Recording/dp/B00I2ZBD1U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1404868855&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=Homeworx
You could use a digital converter box. They have coax input and HDMI output. I use this one, which has DVR capabilities if you supply your own storage:
http://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-HW-150PVR-HomeWorx-Converter-Recording/dp/B00I2ZBD1U
I have one of these http://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-HW-150PVR-HomeWorx-Converter-Recording/dp/B00I2ZBD1U for my basement. All of my equipment is in a closet and just have one HDMI cable going to my tv. This box works great and sounds like what you need.
For OTA tv guide you'll need to buy one of these: www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-HW-150PVR-HomeWorx-Converter-Recording/dp/B00I2ZBD1U
Works great and you can even record and pause with it
Yes, there are many digital converters available that support HD. Here is one that includes an option to PVR feature at $32.99.
Agreed. I bought this one on the recommendation of someone in this sub, and I have been pleasantly surprised.
Also, it may just be in my head, but I think the tuner in it is better than the built in tuner in my TV. The Signal Meter is a really nice feature. I know most TVs have it built in, buy mine doesn't.
Get an antenna and one of these - ATSC tuner - and you'll be good to go. https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-HomeWorx-Converter-Recording-HW-150PVR/dp/B00I2ZBD1U?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2
this may be what you're looking for.
I have been a long time cordcutter but since getting an XB1 I wanted to use the OneGuide. I just asked about this a couple weeks ago.
http://www.reddit.com/r/cordcutters/comments/2rbcww/best_stb_for_xbox_one_owners_who_are_also/
While the official tuner shows no signs of coming almost everyone recommended the MediaSonic HW150PVR -- its around $40 on Amazon. I figured what the heck and bought one. Have had it hooked up now for over a week and its working great. Need a usb hard drive for using the DVR functions but the tuner portion is great.
NOTE: If you don't have a Kinect you need an IR transmitter to be connected directly to the XB1 in order to change channels etc (assuming you want to do away with the tuners separate remote as well)
OTA Antenna + DVR: This one has limited features but is cheap.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I2ZBD1U
You can get an ota antenna and something like http://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-HW-150PVR-HomeWorx-Converter-Recording/dp/B00I2ZBD1U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1426611989&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=mediasonic+pvr
The antenna hooks up to the mediasonic device which goes to the Xbox via HDMI. It will work with the one guide as well. I have this set up and get all my local channels.
My thinking is that I would need something like (this)[https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-HomeWorx-Converter-Recording-HW-150PVR/dp/B00I2ZBD1U/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1527033816&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=tv+tuner+with+hdmi+out]. I would need to connect the OTA to this and this to the receiver via HDMI. Am I on the right track or is there a trick I am not aware of...
...Thanks in advance all!
For some odd reason the formatting of this page is bare bones for me.
Normal Link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I2ZBD1U/ref=s9_simh_gw_p23_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=center-2&amp;pf_rd_r=1SECWR1X5FTPSBSACC7E&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=1688200382&amp;pf_rd_i=507846
I purchased a Mediasonic Converter box since others had confirmed it is compatible with the X1 and Kinect. It functions as a OTA tuner for the Xbox, and it is also a TV DVR if you plug in a Flash drive or external hard drive. After the initial channel scan, i haven't touched the remote for the box in over 2 months thanks to the Kinect.
I bought this several months ago when the tuner in my hdtv died. Works great.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00I2ZBD1U?pc_redir=1397644997&amp;robot_redir=1
OP here - just letting you all know what I bought and how it's working out...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I2ZBD1U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008KVUAGU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Reception great, does exactly what I wanted.
GOODBYE TIME WARNER !!!!
This is what most people are using successfully for OTA in the US:
http://amzn.com/B00I2ZBD1U
I recommend this antenna: http://amzn.com/B004QK7HI8
Edit: Oops, you already have an antenna. Oh well, Ill leave it there for others.
I have this digital TV box here:
Mediasonic Homeworx HW180STB 3 / 4 Channel HDTV Digital Converter Box with Recording and Media Player
And a simple antenna like this.
I get around 30 channels, maybe even more (most I do not watch). The digital TV box can record like a DVR to a USB hard drive and I use that frequently. The digital signals all carry a 'guide' for each channel that goes about 2-3 days out so you can pick stuff to record in the future.
AntennaWeb.org can tell you which channels should be available in your area.
You can get an external tuner with HDMI output for $30. https://smile.amazon.com/Mediasonic-Homeworx-HW180STB-Converter-Recording/dp/B00IYETYX8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497459399&amp;sr=8-3
Getting a tuner card looks like it's closer to $60-100, so the external one may be a better option.
If you want to record OTA that may be pretty inexpensive.
One of these: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IYETYX8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=2QU45YGV6HHBN&amp;coliid=I1VHCYKG6MNZB1
Will fix you right up!
Oh, forgot about this: http://electronics.woot.com/offers/simple-tv-the-whole-planet-dvr-3?utm_source=Commission+Junction+Publisher+-+5684644&amp;utm_medium=affiliate+-+Woot%21+Logo&amp;utm_campaign=Commission+Junction+-+10848750
I cut the cord and have a digital antenna/Netflix. I live downtown, use a FlatWave antenna, a [digital converter box] (http://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-HW180STB-HomeWorx-Converter-Recording/dp/B00IYETYX8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450807988&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=mediasonic), and am able to get all four of the networks you've listed plus 4 other stations (mainly PBS). Its great and I won't ever go back. /r/cordcutters and TVFOOL are great resource as well. I know of some friends on the back loop who have had reception issues with antennas but downtown has been no problem. Hope this helps
If you need a good digital tuner option try http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IYETYX8 -- I bought this and am very happy with it. You'll need an antenna to hook up to it -- usually a good idea to get one you can put on a window like http://www.amazon.com/Antenna-1byone-Super-Digital-Indoor/dp/B00IF70QCW -- and you're good to go. One nice thing about the tuner I got is you can hook an external USB hard drive or USB flash drive up to it and get DVR capabilities.
this can dvr your antenna
http://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-Homeworx-HW180STB-Converter-Recording/dp/B00IYETYX8/
Not perfect but good.. hook a drive to it on USB .. then you can download an App for windows that will rename all the shows on the drive to proper names and save them to your computer if you want
I bought a tiny digital tuner/PVR for my antenna off Amazon. You just plug a USB drive into it and away you go.
Here it is.
Where do you live? If you live locally, you can just buy an antenna and get ABC/NBC/CBS/FOX for free in HD. I live up in Lansdale/North Wales/Harleysville area and get all but ABC.
You can do a month to month subscription with Sling TV to watch espn live streaming for like $20 and get other channels. I would pay $20 to watch at home and lower my bar tab. Also you get history channel and AMC and other channels as well.
Also you can get an android box and plug it into your tv, download Kodi and watch live TV via the add ons available.
I usually watch the Phillies on Kodi or listen on the radio. Another redditor pointed out there is a subreddit for live game streams. I will report back with the link.
edit: /r/nflstreams thanks /u/Groty
edit edit: Also if you use the antenna, you can buy a digital recording box such as this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IYETYX8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 And DVR the game
You need a tuner like this. Antenna goes in to this and the tunner is plugged into the reciever via HDMI and the reciever out goes to the projector. I've had this unit for awhile and it works fine. No bells and whistles but for ATO signals it works fine.
there's a new version of the STB that records
ive had it a few weeks. no complaints.
For a small amp, look at the SMSL, nobsound, micca, Lepai - chi-fi amps.
For AVR off Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Sony-STRDH550-5-2-Channel-Receiver/dp/B00J30GXW2/
This 5.2 Sony receiver is the same price, just not part of a bundle. It'll give you more options down the road if you want to do home theater. Take a look at it and check out some of the speakers on the sidebar, https://www.reddit.com/r/AverageJoeAudiophile/comments/3uoksp/i_have_xxxxx_to_spend_what_should_i_buy_bookshelf/
, to see if you can put together a better deal on your own.
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-STRDH550-5-2-Channel-Receiver/dp/B00J30GXW2/ref=sr_1_1?srs=2530478011&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483475812&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=receiver
Sorry for the long links. Redditing onn my phone.
Line level is a weak audio signal, (nowhere near 150w,) produced by a preamp inside of the receiver and that weak signal has to be sent to an amplifier to be amplified in order to power the speakers.
If your receiver had been designed for a non-powered subwoofer there would be subwoofer speaker terminals to connect a non-powered subwoofer to. Your receiver has speaker terminals for Fronts, Center and Surrounds only. The subwoofer outputs means your receiver was designed for using a powered subwoofer.
The reason there are 2 subwoofer outs on the back of your receiver is for connecting 2 powered subwoofers to it when the setup is in a very large room that needs more umph! in the bass end. The R and L is just for knowing which line goes to which subwoofer if 2 are used, not for right and left channels, because the low end audio spectrum is mono, not stereo.
Another reason for the 2 subwoofer outputs is for using a powered, dual voice coil subwoofer, those have 2 inputs on the back of them.
Anyway; The ratings for your Sony receiver on Amazon are incorrect. They may be incorrect in your user's manual too.
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-STRDH550-5-2-Channel-Receiver/dp/B00J30GXW2
i got the cheapest wall mounts at a local store
but they are similar to something like this.
i doesn't matter how big the monitors are, what is mostly important with wallmounting is weight.
my left monitor is a 27'' and it holds just fine.
It was just a cheap one like this off Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Articulating-Bracket-Screen-Monitor/dp/B000ID7QNI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1313548914&amp;sr=8-1
Here's a breakdown of the parts that aren't computer parts or peripherals:
Part | Quantity | Total Price
---------|----------|----------
Videosecu Vesa Mount | 3 | $47.49
MDF Desk Top | 1 | $11.97
18" x 16" Shelf bracket|2 |$15.96
Vinyl Floor | 2 | $38.66
12"x36" Shelf | 1 | $7.48
Total | | $128.86
All that's left to do is lay down some dividers for where the carpet and vinyl meet.
When Ergotron is called "Cheaper", you know you've found something overpriced.
Here ya go. $16.
Very cool! You might consider using some [of these] (http://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Monitor-Articulating-Bracket-ML10B/dp/B000ID7QNI/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422243348&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=videosecu&amp;pebp=1422243369265&amp;peasin=B000ID7QNI) in your project, too. I actually mount these to the wall in my office and instead of putting a monitor on them, attach a piece of stained wood. Instant shelf that can be swung out of the way as needed. For a while I had an extra dry erase board on one of them, just turned it perpendicular to the floor, and suddenly, you have a submarine battle board!
It depends on the arm, but most will fold up very close to the wall.
This one is the same design I have my ultrawide mounted to and it can go very close to flush; basically the thickness of the mount itself will be the deciding factor on how far it protrudes.
Here's one of a different style; it gives more freedom of motion and can also go very close to flush.
I agree with this. Ended up wall mounting my 3 24"s
I used these: VESA mounts @ $14 each.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ID7QNI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
The main monitor is an HP 24wd, secondary on top is a Dell SP2309W, and the third in portrait is an Asus MW221. They're all old and I wish they were IPS, but they do the job good enough.
The mount for the secondary monitor is this one and the mount for the portrait monitor is this one. They're pretty damn good in terms of sturdiness and reliability.
My suggestion would be to go with a 2.1 system and add to it as you can. But, it sort of sounds like you really want 5.1.
So, I suggest the Energy 5.1 Take Classic for $300 (http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Classic-Theater-System-Black/dp/B001202C44)
and
I am usually a fan of Denon receivers but with only around $200 left in your budget, I prefer the Yamaha RX-575 for $239 at accessories4less. But you can scan their receivers and find one in your budget that has the features you like. I prefer Denon/Marantz and then Yamaha but the Denon's don't really start separating themselves until you get into the x1100 and on up. If you could stretch your budget to $600 you could pick up the Marantz NR1504 and I bet you'd be incredibly happy with that but it runs $300.
How do you think a system like this compares to the Energy Take Classic 5.1?
The passport series that WD has is very impressive. I got a 1TB one for $70 and I don't regret it at all and I'm more than happy. More space than I know what to do with it. I use it along with a WD media player which is hooked up to my TV. I pop in movies on the passport from my computer and watch them on my flatscreen, no need for DVD players or new high-end smart-tv's.
If it wasn't for the "season pass" requirement, I'd honestly recommend a WD TV live. I've bought several WD devices (mostly the now-discontinued live hub) for technologically-illiterate family members, and all of them have loved it. It's dead simple to use, and "just works" with every media file I've thrown at it. I haven't used the new TV live, but it appears to have similar, WaF-compatible software.
Unfortunately, I don't think anything exists that will be as seamless as a tivo for recording. Sabnzbd + sickbeard will get the job done in a relatively painless fashion, but I still wouldn't trust my family to figure it out on their own. You may have to administrate that youself.
14awg wire should work for just about anything unless you are putting them more than 10 feet.
There is a fella here who likes to put books under his heresy II's to angle them up -- I don't quite remember why but it may be something to keep in mind or try out when setting them up, I think it was about a 2 inch lift in the front.
The big idea of a preamp is to keep the low level signal away from the ridiculous power supply in the power amp.. in reality it's not a big deal and people do it mainly because high end gear is sold that way, you can get a higher end preamp that just does it's job and does it well instead of an afterthought add on part of a power amp.
Tubes do strange things to audio, it is distortion of the signal, but in a unique way that literally pulls out things that are quiet in a recording and basically raising their volume, this creates the sparkle effect you may have read about. Also they have an effect on the low end that boosts the bass frequencies by compressing the sounds, causing the bass to get fuller(louder). These effects can be subtle at low volumes, and vary from tube amp to tube amp.
Solid state has lots of different categories.. it breaks down into classes dictated by the way the amp is designed to to it's job not as a rating of good or bad. Class A is silly accurate, very hot, and very pricey in general.. if you have more than $700 to spend on just a stereo amp and don't mind 50 plus pounds of aluminum heating up your room then I can toss out a recommendation for these.. Class A/B is pretty much 95% of the market.. the first 1-5 watts of power runs at class A and the rest works with not so clean class B to do the job when you crank the volume knob or the music gets loud. Class D offers a huge swing of really crappy cheap amps just made to push power with no real design for fidelity, this will be used mainly in plate amps for subwoofers to OK cheap amps Dayton audio T-Amps would fall into this range to Holy crap that sounds amazing which is more of the B&O ICE amps and the Hypex module amps.
If you have a budget, I'm assuming that you do and that it's possibly pretty low since these were given to you I would focus on two purchases to make these things work together in a nice clean user friendly way.
An interface to your music is a good start. I like the Logitech Squeezebox, it's the one peice of gear I have no desire to upgrade. It works with my phone as a remote control and pulls music from my computer and subscription services without any hassle. If you like using your TV while listening to music(I'll never understand this) the WD live box is pretty good and offers onsite storage via the western digital external hard drives that work well with it.
The next step is an amp/receiver.. your old Scott is probably planing to burn up and die. I would suggest getting a newer receiver. The cheap one I like is the Harman Kardon HK 3390 it's got low distortion figures (0.07 at 80 watts both channels driven) this is hella good for a Class A/B especially for less than $250 bucks.
If I've undershot your budget let me know.
I just bought one of these Western Digital Streaming Media Players. Supposedly plays everything, was $90.
WiDi works by acting as a wireless cable. So imagine that it's like the same as connecting through hdmi, since the adapter will likely take in or output hdmi on either end. In this manner, it basically treats the TV as a monitor, so whatever you can do with your current hdmi connection, you should be able to do with the WiDi adapters.
In regards to the product, it'd be more helpful if you gave a direct link, but if you mean this item, then that's a different beast altogether. This one is basically a media player that looks for media shares, so similar in functionality to a Roku or similar.
Which one to get really depends on what your wider preference is. Both will let you stream netflix to your TV and play files from your local media shares, but the media player limits you to those activities. This comes with the benefit of a TV friendly user interface(usually) and a remote, so you don't even need your computer nearby as long as it's on the network.
WiDi will require you to keep a keyboard and mouse handy, wireless is helpful here, since you're basically operating your computer/laptop and the TV is acting as the monitor. However, WiDi allows you do to anything you can do on your computer on the TV screen, whether it's playing games, browsing the internet, doing work, etc.
if your pc has hdmi, which im assuming it does, they sell wireless hdmi adapters such as this one here on amazon. I haven't used one, so if you get one let me know how it works out
We're using this little guy:
https://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-Transmitter-Streaming-Projector-NPCS549/dp/B009E6R89C/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469117724&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=wireless+hdmi
A wee expensive at $200, but it's been rock solid for us, and allows us to hand a dongle to someone to plug in and no extra software to install.
You might look at a Nyrus Aires Prime, it's essentially a wireless HDMI cable. Personally I prefer to use a wired connection as the Nyrus can take a bit to negotiate resolutions and seems to drop its connection from time to time. The upside is it's only $200 where the entry level Clickshare is $1000. I haven't ever used a Clickshare myself so I don't know how they compare.
http://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-Transmitter-Streaming-Satellite-NPCS549/dp/B009E6R89C
Well there's stuff like this which you could use to transfer HDMI wirelessly.
Although I have no idea how well that works, I saw a similar device a while back which worked well for slowly changing or still images but was horrible for moving ones (games, movies, ...).
You would probably be better off finding an HDMI cable that can be hidden well.
We use a similar product by nyrius.
https://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-Transmitter-Streaming-Projector-NPCS549/dp/B009E6R89C
Works as intended as far as I can tell.
Personally, I just use a 30ft HDMI cable, which I think is about as long as you can get without using a signal booster (which can introduce lag).
However, there are wireless HDMI solutions, they just tend to be very expensive compared to regular cables.
Don't spend all that money on nice components and connect them cheaply.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009E6R89C
what amazes me on amazon, is the "frequently bought together" section on xbox one.
it's the PS4. are people pre-ordering both, only to cancel one of them at launch?
same on the ps4 one
http://www.amazon.com/PlayStation-4-Standard-Edition/dp/B00CMQTVQO/ref=zg_bs_videogames_3
Gift One: There's no way this is gonna happen, but it's worth a shot (By the way, rasta, you look incredibly stylish today, is that a new sweater?)
Gift Two: I get hungry at work, so I always need some snacks :)
186394, you look okay today, but a banana suit would really complete the outfit.
C'mon...gimme.
1.) [Something that is grey.]
(http://www.amazon.com/ThinkGeek-Minecraft-Note-Cube/dp/B005GMWAOQ/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&amp;colid=1P0WLUX7HZM88&amp;coliid=I2MKPWR46VCNAV) (Main WL)
2.)
Something reminiscent of rain.3.) [Something food related that is unusual.]
(http://www.amazon.com/Shady-Maple-Farms-Organic-Stroopwafel/dp/B002HQERCM/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&amp;colid=2VCRE2W8VCMM7&amp;coliid=I3JA1YGZR61PNX) (Feed Me WL)
4.) [Something on your list that is for someone other than yourself. Tell me who it's for and why. (Yes, pets count!)]
(http://www.amazon.com/LEGO-DUPLO-Princess-Undersea-Castle/dp/B00A88EP9Q/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&amp;colid=GG0TDT1M6D60&amp;coliid=I2SQZ4UMA01M8G) (Niece/Nephews WL)
For my niece! Because she loves LEGO and she's obsessed with Little Mermaid.
5.) [A book I should read! I am an avid reader, so take your best shot and tell me why I need to read it!]
(http://www.amazon.com/Longmire-Mystery-Series-Boxed-Volumes/dp/0147508770/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&amp;colid=19GY5YG4ALBHP&amp;coliid=I2RQ3KT5XJD3MR) (Books WL)
All of these! The characterization is so much fun, the mystery itself is great...I got addicted to this entire series.
6.)
An item that is less than a dollar, including shipping... that is not jewelry, nail polish, and or hair related!Nope.
7.) [Something related to cats. I love cats! (keep this SFW, you know who you are...)]
(http://www.amazon.com/Armarkat-B5701-57-Inch-Tree-Ivory/dp/B003BYQ100/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&amp;colid=2DFWCO414C0RT&amp;coliid=I143IEDBCBUABI) (Cats WL)
8.) [Something that is not useful, but so beautiful you must have it.]
(http://www.amazon.com/United-Cutlery-UC1264-LOTR-Sting/dp/B00062BO7U/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&amp;colid=2RKYWCYW31M08&amp;coliid=ITZAAOEK7L109) (Pipe Dreams WL)
9.) [A movie everyone should watch at least once in their life. Why?]
(http://www.amazon.com/Stand-25th-Anniversary-Edition-Blu-ray/dp/B00164GDA0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&amp;colid=14ENPLB26HMQU&amp;coliid=I172GKBYIDX0SZ) (Movies WL)
It's the perfect 'coming of age' movie. Featuring two actors who are still active and well known, and two we lost too soon.
10.) [Something that would be useful when the zombies attack. Explain.]
(http://www.amazon.com/Spectre-Compact-Take-down-Survival-Arrow/dp/B003O98OJI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&amp;colid=2RKYWCYW31M08&amp;coliid=I2E8WI49EDG9BU)
A silent killer. Capable (I think) of skewering an undead brain. What more is there to explain? (Pipe Dreams WL)
11.) Something that would have a profound impact on your life and help you to achieve your current goals.
I have no goals right now. Sigh.
12.) [One of those pesky Add-On items.]
(http://www.amazon.com/Village-Naturals-Shoppe-Vanilla-Amber/dp/B001PLH58I/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&amp;colid=1P0WLUX7HZM88&amp;coliid=I1LPIJLUADQUO6) (Main WL)
13.) [The most expensive thing on your list. Your dream item. Why?]
(http://www.amazon.com/Canon-Frame-Digital-Camera-24-105mm/dp/B007FGZ1V0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&amp;colid=2RKYWCYW31M08&amp;coliid=I2HDOC9WS17GPM) (Pipe Dreams WL)
It's a major upgrade from the camera I have now. I have no USE for it since my camera is nice, but damn do I drool over it.
14.) [Something bigger than a bread box.]
(http://www.amazon.com/Piece-Queen-GREEN-BEIGE-Comforter/dp/B00AH397MC/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&amp;colid=1P0WLUX7HZM88&amp;coliid=I13G5R4KW7DZ5C) (Main WL)
15.) [Something smaller than a golf ball.]
(http://www.amazon.com/Kingdom-Hearts-Avatar-Mascot-Figure/dp/B002RT8N4M/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&amp;colid=1P0WLUX7HZM88&amp;coliid=I1XTE6YT1EJ1CT) (Main WL)
Tiny Vivi!
16.) [Something that smells wonderful.]
(http://www.amazon.com/Morning-Star-Lavender-Incense-Sticks/dp/B001B67TD8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&amp;colid=1P0WLUX7HZM88&amp;coliid=IKK20VKTRHL1D) (Main WL)
17.) [A (SFW) toy.]
(http://www.amazon.com/LEGO-Minifigure-Collection-Series-Mystery/dp/B003LQMFOY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_nC?ie=UTF8&amp;colid=30PMJOCYEK1SN&amp;coliid=I3DQVVIEVUAAHK) (LEGO WL)
18.) [Something that would be helpful for going back to school.]
(http://www.amazon.com/Asus-A55VD-AH71-ASUS-15-6-Inch-Laptop/dp/B009M2XB6M/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&amp;colid=1P0WLUX7HZM88&amp;coliid=I1XMKVRS88GQGV) (Main WL)
19.) [Something related to your current obsession, whatever that may be.]
(http://www.amazon.com/Burn-Notice-Season-Six/dp/B0060MYLCU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&amp;colid=14ENPLB26HMQU&amp;coliid=I5YQM2A3MEDGS) (Movies WL)
BURN NOTICE
20.) [Something that is just so amazing and awe-inspiring that I simply must see it. Explain why it is so grand.]
(http://www.amazon.com/PlayStation-4-PS4-Standard-Edition/dp/B00CMQTVQO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&amp;colid=1XFZ5B9UHNEEK&amp;coliid=I20LPXNM34AJ3U) (High Priority WL)
It's the PS4. Any gamer worth their weight knows that this is going to be one of the grandest, most desirable gaming systems ever. The graphics are going to be just amazing and we'll be one step closer to games being so realistic that we feel like murderers while playing them.
ETA: fear cuts deeper than swords
It depends on what you are looking to do.
Some people are happy getting an AppleTV.
For $30 you can get a Google Chromecast and stream all kinds of HD programming over the internet or locally via Plex.
Or you could get a Raspberry Pi and run one of the distros with XBMC. (A basic understanding of Linux will be very helpful here.)
You could also get an Intel NUC and build a mediacenter PC with that, but once you buy RAM and a hard drive for it, your cost could be close to $400.
You could get a Roku.
There is also the Amazon FireTV.
The last option I can think of is to buy a new Blu ray player. Many of them have a host of mediacenter features built in including Vudu, Youtube, Hulu+, and Netflix. Some even support Amazon Prime.
I have a ChromeCast and a Raspberry Pi running RaspBMC and they both work well for me. The only thing I can't watch with either one is Amazon Prime video.
still, it's very compelling even if you are not an amazon prime member. if i didn't already have a roku3 i would buy the amazon box, since i'm just watching a third party subscription on them (netflix+hulu), so who provides the $100 box means nothing as long as it's got the best possible specs inside.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CX5P8FC
amazon's comparison chart has a few obvious mistakes. i do get bloomberg tv and pandora on my roku, while hbo go only works in your house if you already have a cabletv subscription in your hose. i think roku will finally have to come out with a keyboard if they want to compete with voice recognition.
This will change with the new Fire TV Stick 4K with all-new Alexa Voice Remote, streaming media player will be released on October 31, 2018 https://www.amazon.com/Introducing-Fire-TV-Stick-4K-with-All-New-Alexa-Voice-Remote/dp/B079QHML21/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539934424&amp;sr=8-11&amp;keywords=amazon+fire+stick#tech. This more than enough to handle anything Kodi has. I personally use and recommend a Nvidia Shield worth the cost to me. But the new 4K Fire TV Stick is cheap at 49.99
Amazon new for 550
I got it from walmart refurbished for 440
&#x200B;
Honestly this tv is gorgeous and 55 inches is massive. I don't think 90% of the public can tell the difference between a 900 dollar TV and a 2k tv.
I would rather, and did* spend money on furniture.
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079QHML21/ref=ods_gw_g2_smp_m_mt_100318?pf_rd_s=grid-1-takeover-2&amp;pf_rd_t=Gateway&amp;pf_rd_i=mobile-unrec&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=70APJT67VPV09ASYMQRA&amp;pf_rd_p=9f85e2e3-a38d-41df-b1d5-13998aa31ebc
https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2018/10/amazons-new-fire-tv-stick-brings-4k-hdr-and-dolby-atmos-for-50/
The new fire stick supposedly supports 4k-
https://www.amazon.com/Introducing-Fire-TV-Stick-4K-with-All-New-Alexa-Voice-Remote/dp/B079QHML21
My guess is that you're using one of the older sticks. The newish 4k stick has been pretty damn flawless for me.
Save up a few hundred more dollars and go with the TCL 55” 6 series. True HDR10 and an insane amount of bang for your buck. I have a 55” and a 65” 6 series and couldn’t be happier with my purchases.
You do, however, run a bit of a risk with TCL panels as they are infamous for having some pretty noticeable imperfections if you’re unlucky. My 55” is perfect, but there is some banding on my 65” that is fairly apparent when the screen gets bright, but still isn’t that noticeable when watching content.
https://www.amazon.com/TCL-55R617-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B079N9HDNQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=tcl+55r6&amp;qid=1559061146&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-2
You plug it into the HDMI socked on your TV, and it runs Amazon's Android version. You can install apps like iPlayer, Netflix Kodi, and Plex Client on it, and use them to stream content from the web and your NAS. https://www.amazon.com/Fire-TV-Stick-4K-with-Alexa-Voice-Remote/dp/B079QHML21 (the older, non-4K versions are cheaper).
The FireStick is wi-fi only, and about £30. If you want wired, you can get the slightly larger FireTV which costs a bit more but has an ethernet connection. TBH, though, I have a fireTV and have streamed 1080p quite comfortably across wifi. It would only be an issue if you wanted to stream full 4K movies, then you'd need wired.
If you are willing to spend a little more you can pick up a cheap 2.0 digital amp off amazon and get some small bookshelf speakers like you were saying.
https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B009IUIV4A/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480922309&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=bookshelf+speaker
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-SA-36A-TPA3118D2-Amplifier-Black/dp/B017W13OR0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480922292&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=smsl
Although this cost about twice the price I would be willing to say its worth it.
Easiest is to get 3.5mm plug to RCA jacks wire. The 3.5mm plug would be connected to the sound card on the computer. The RCA jacks go to your amp/receiver. From there, you have to get speaker wires to connect amp/receiver to these speakers.
The link to the DAC is for heaphones and can't be used with these speakers. The connections aren't there and more importantly doesn't provide enough power to drive these speakers. That DAC would connect to your computer using a usb connection. Other's have linked two possible amps you could use with these speakers.
https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DTA3116HP-Amplifier-Headphone/dp/B01ETJ3Z3Q
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-SA-36A-TPA3118D2-Amplifier-Black/dp/B017W13OR0
How 'cheap'?
Rock bottom cheap, $29 for a Dayton Audio w/Headphone out is pretty cheap. you get what you pay for, if clean sound is what you want this is not the amp for you
If you want a better quality amp, go with the SMSL SA-36A for $51. more expensive, but SMSL is a solid quality small amp maker
You are trying to plug speakers into a line level source. You need an amp. I honestly don't even know how you managed to solder speaker wire to rca jacks.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017W13OR0
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HRR5AWQ/
My bad. I just checked and I actually have the SA-36A, which I can confirm works just fine coming directly from my PC.
May I suggest a TCL 49 inch 4k 120Hz refresh is cheap for basically 2 Zatochis boxes($339.99).
We need more information! What is your budget and what screen size are you going for? VGA input is also going to be a real problem as those are mostly phased out.
I'm going to assume we're going in on the cheap here. I've heard good things about the following tv. Low input lag and good motion blurring.
https://www.amazon.com/TCL-43S405-43-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01MYGISTO?th
43", 49", 55" all seem to be about the same spec wise from what I understand. The problem is that they are hdmi only. I'd solve this by getting an OSSC. It will take your component and vga inputs and output them as HDMI. It also seems to have full compatibility with the OSSC doubling modes including SNES, 5x modes, and even 480p x2.
>S405 | Lx3: Y | SNES: Y | Lx4/5: Y/Y | DoctorPain99 Also 480p x2 and 480i passthrough
I don't personally own this tv. If I was looking for a low budget option this is what I would do in your shoes though. The size is up to you. I'd go for as big as you can.
Edit: It may seem painful to pay almost as much as the TV for the OSSC but this really will be an awesome setup. It will even open up RGB scart to you. You could end up spending the extra money chasing the inputs you want but if I was you I'd remove it from the equation with the OSSC. Once you experience the joy of upscaled retro gaming you won't want to ever go back.
The OSSC paired with a compatible TV is pretty much plug and play. No need for complicated profiles or settings research like the Framemeister.
I have a this 49" TCL. It's just under 35" from leg tip to leg tip.
Found the new one on Amazon, has the new controller
Marketing info is the same/similar as the old Shield TV
e.g.
old
> Expand your entertainment with the best gaming streamer experience that’s 3X more powerful than Apple TV.
new
> It's everything you want in one game-changing device that's 3X faster than competitors
So its probably the same, which explains why they didn't talk about improved performance during the keynote
What lol. https://www.amazon.com/NVIDIA-SHIELD-Gaming-Streaming-GeForce/dp/B01N1NT9Y6/ref=asc_df_B01N1NT9Y6/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=312354356855&amp;hvpos=1o2&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=5782579496490990310&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=c&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9032533&amp;hvtargid=pla-404894099894&amp;psc=1&amp;tag=&amp;ref=&amp;adgrpid=61646162385&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvadid=312354356855&amp;hvpos=1o2&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=5782579496490990310&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=c&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9032533&amp;hvtargid=pla-404894099894
It's only $190 on Amazon. The hell you mean Rare lol. That more than a Pi sure, but it offers more than a PI and is cheaper than a Switch.
A Switch is basically a downgraded Nvidia Shield.
https://www.amazon.com/NVIDIA-SHIELD-Gaming-Streaming-GeForce/dp/B01N1NT9Y6/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=shield+pro&amp;qid=1556046296&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1
uhh what?
Just wanted to high five - took delivery of the exact same TV this morning!
I'd be willing to bet the TV would support just about any size hard drive. I can't imagine that they rolled their own eg. NTFS implementation for whatever OS the thing uses. But like /u/GbMaxSE said - honestly, don't.
You've just spent that kind of money on a TV, I would also highly recommend an Nvidia Shield.
This is also available for the same price at Best Buy and the package including the controller is available for $169.00 on Amazon
I've been keeping an eye on these for a little while and just pulled the trigger on this. I'll personally be using it as a Plex server/client to take some of the load off my PC
Yup, $149 last year on Amazon
With controller didn't hit lowest price til second week of December ($159). Worth getting even if you don't plan on using it. Can easily resell the controller for ~$50.
I don't ever remember a sale on the newer models, either. CamelCamelCamel confirms that $179 is the lowest the price has been on Amazon.
Rtings.com is a good review site to compare specific models.
IMO, you should get a TCL Roku TV if you are on a budget. If good HDR is important to you get the P series. The P series offers one of the best smart tv interfaces out right now, 3 HDMI ports, deep black levels (not OLED good) but good for the price. If you just want a good 4k set, and don't care about high quality HDR, get the S series. They are both good values at amazon right now with out a black friday deal. I'm not sure but I doubt they will be discounted much more. OLED is top of the line in terms of picture quality. Currently OLED is only made by LG and Sony. I prefer the LG mainly for its smart tv interface but both are remarkable. Perfect black levels are among the many positive qualities of OLED. Both the 2017 OLEDs I mentioned support 4k Dolby Vision and HDR 10 (so does the TCL P series.) Just be aware of burn in with OLEDs. Might want to get a warranty for your expensive TV. Good luck!
so getting this TV https://www.amazon.com/TCL-55P607-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B06Y6FSV5Q would be a waste of time because it has Dolby Vision?
Honestly the LG tvs are pretty bad. They use IPS panels, which means the blacks aren't as black as they should be. Take a look at the ratings for LG tvs on www.rtings.com
Take a look at this TV instead. Has the features of the $1500 tvs, for half the cost. It is $600.
https://www.amazon.com/TCL-55P607-55-Inch-Ultra-Vision/dp/B06Y6FSV5Q
Some reviews/previews:
http://www.avsforum.com/tcl-55-p-series-model-55p607-4k-hdr-roku-tv-with-dolby-vision-first-look/
http://referencehometheater.com/review/tcl-p-series-uhd-tv-review/
Thread on it at the avsforums:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lcd-flat-panel-displays/2713345-2017-tcl-p-series.html
if it's in your budget getting a 55" or so 4k tv would be a better option and would allow you to enjoy things you don't get on the monitor like 4k/HDR, etc.
There is a new tv coming out this month that's making quite a bit of noise recently from AVS forums and other tech sites because of its price and what it offers:
http://www.avsforum.com/tcl-55-p-series-model-55p607-4k-hdr-roku-tv-with-dolby-vision-first-look/
http://referencehometheater.com/review/tcl-p-series-uhd-tv-review/
Amazon link (#1 best seller after these recent articles):
https://www.amazon.com/TCL-55P607-55-Inch-Ultra-Vision/dp/B06Y6FSV5Q
$599 for 4k/HDR/Dolby Vision, best value for the money by a large margin.
That'd work better for movies/tv then using the S27D390H would.
Also keep in mind, 4k tv's are meant to be closer then traditional tv's. The Recommend viewing distances can be found here:
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-WFcuMZirs4I/learn/learningcenter/home/TV_placement.html
Why not grab the shield TV, and grab a hdhomerun to consolidate what you are doing to one box instead of two so you aren't switching inputs? The shield has a several different DVRs built in. Also if you wanted to you could use plex with the shield?
https://www.amazon.com/NVIDIA-SHIELD-Streaming-Player-Remote/dp/B075RXV2VR/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510506499&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=shield+tv
https://www.amazon.com/SiliconDust-HDHomeRun-CONNECT-broadcast-2-Tuner/dp/B00GY0UB54/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510506517&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=hdhomerun
www.plex.tv
The package with a gamepad is $20 more. Amazon has the media controller only version for $149.00, so $0.99 less than BestBuy.
SCUMBAG AFFILIATE 'DEALS' LINK
Unmolested link to Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/NVIDIA-Shield-Streaming-Media-Player/dp/B075RXV2VR/
OP is a link spammer. Attn Mods: /u/jamesking420 and /u/ButtaJones
NVIDIA SHIELD TV This is what I use. Not cheap but's amazingly slick. All of the streaming services, runs Kodi, Plex and can launch Steam.
It wasn't showing up for me in search either, but then I noticed it was on the sidebar. It wasn't showing up because it's now marked as "currently unavailable." Here's the link, though.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B079N9HDNQ/
The Pioneer BS 22s are recommended quite a bit in that price range. They're a touch on the warm side so if your looking for detailed sparkling highs you might look at something else.
Also since those are a bit under your budget you might consider picking up a SMSL SA36 instead of the lepai. They should be pretty similar, but the SMSL will probably go a little louder before distorting.
unless you plan on buying an Atmos-supported receiver and running surround sound, you will get no benefit from those speakers. the normal non-Atmos speakers are currently $99 right now, so I'd suggest just getting those instead
>is it fine to buy a <$50 amp or should I hunt for a used one on craigslist/facebook?
nah, that's fine. people over estimate the power they need, especially for desk setups. 10W continuous @ 8ohms is more than enough for the majority of circumstances, and you can find a lot of amplifiers with that much power for $50. this SMSL SA-36A should be fine for you. but again there's a good amount of options out there. I'd only recommend buying used if you want/need more power, but that's not really applicable in your case. and for $50, even used, you're gonna mostly find 10+ year old AV receivers, with not many useful features (no HDMI, no bluetooth, no wifi, etc)
The Diamond 9.0s are currently £39.99 at Richer Sounds. With that saving I'd upgrade your amp to the SMSL SA-36 or the SA-50. I'm also making a budget 2.0 setup and the general consensus I've found is that you're better off spending an extra tenner on the SA-36 than the LEPY.
You can get decent bookshelf speakers, a desktop amp, and speaker wire for about $150 and it will sound far better than a soundbar
Speakers $80
Amp $47
Speaker wire $10
a cheap DAC will help clean up any noise that you'd likely be getting otherwise from the mobo's line out. I got this cheap one to stack with an SMSL 36A Pro amp. Plenty of volume for me. The downside to the DAC is it only supports 44.1/16, and the 48/16 implementation is flawed according to reviews noting some increased distortion. so a better DAC like this guy might be better, and gives you a decent headphone amp, but puts you over your budget.
Hi quick question, I purchased two Micca MB42X speakers and one SMSL amplifier . I thought they would come with cords to connect the speaker to the amp, but they did not. So what type of wire/cord should I purchase to be able to connect these two pieces?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E7H8GG2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017W13OR0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
If you're not comfortable building a system and nobody nearby to assist, you might want to go with a prebuilt system.
Example only, not sure I'd recommend this particular one.
https://www.amazon.com/HP-Quad-Core-i7-7700HQ-Bluetooth-Refurbished/dp/B0798TCJCN/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519421615&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;keywords=gtx+1070+computer&amp;psc=1
You're looking for a reasonably modern CPU, 16GB RAM, solid state storage for iracing to live on, and a 1070 at least. This should be able to manage 60fps on triples in all except a few grandstand areas.
If you know someone nearby who can help you troubleshoot any system building issues, might save a few hundred that way. Like I mentioned, graphics cards are hard to get for MSRP right now, so this might be a bit of a struggle.
On the other hand, maybe you should consider getting a cheap ~50" 4k tv and just sitting as close to it as possible, as in almost touching it? I found this more immersive than triple 24" monitors, but you definitely don't have the ability to see cars beside you as easily. The field of view is smaller than triples, but its still much larger than a typical monitor.
I use one of these currently
https://www.amazon.com/TCL-49S405-49-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01MYGISTO
previously on triples, but I prefer this ever so slightly for just driving for fun. If I was competitively racing still I would jump back on triples.
If that TCL is the same one amazon is $20 cheaper unless Target will have it cheaper Black Friday.
TCL 49S405 49-Inch 4K Ultra HD Roku Smart LED TV (2017 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYGISTO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_N99aAbWYS013X
There are a few out there, but most "dumb" TVs nowadays are from third-tier manufacturers (RCA, Sceptre, etc) or various sketchy fourth-tier no-name manufacturers like Bolva, etc, and won't have desirable features like HDR or good warranties/customer service backing them. I'd generally recommend avoiding them, but they ARE out there if you're dead set on a TV without smart features:
Examples: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Sceptre-40-Class-4K-2160P-LED-TV-U405CV-U/54947077
https://www.walmart.com/ip/RCA-40-Class-4K-2160P-LED-TV-RTU4002/55686417
As others have said, consider a TV from a more reputable manufacturer (these are basically always smart, nowadays). If you're looking at 4k gaming, TCL/Hisense make budget sets that would be a big step up (and come with HDR to boot). The TCL S-series TVs are a good example (and have low input lag too):
https://www.amazon.com/TCL-49S405-49-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01MYGISTO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500866187&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=49S405
TCL 43S405 as reviewed by RTings seems to be the best bang for your buck TV as a monitor. It's normally priced around $320, but you'll see it drop sub $300 on sale. At that size you'll definitely want the 4k over 1080p and your 1070 should be sufficient. You're missing the 100-120hz refresh but if your only really browsing the web (per your other comment) you don't need that.
ok i think im gonna go with this TCL that /u/ZeroCorpse linked just the 49 inch version i think because 55 seems massive (but the best deal).
then eventually get a tv that supports HDMI 2.1.
thanks!
I got this one on Amazon. Works great.
TCL 49S405 49-Inch 4K Ultra HD Roku Smart LED TV (2017 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYGISTO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_iXVXST7fWbaoj
For that price, you can get this tv, its the same size and much better:
https://www.amazon.com/TCL-49S405-49-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01MYGISTO
https://www.amazon.com/TCL-49S405-49-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01MYGISTO/ref=sr_1_1?s=tv&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520323481&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=tcl+roku+tv&amp;dpID=51vL5SQbwaL&amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
this is what i got on Black Friday, i got the 42in looks great and is relatively cheap
The TCL S405 series has 4K HDR and REALLY low input lag (13-15 ms) at around $350 if that fits your budget. I literally just went to Best Buy earlier today to look at it in person and the picture was amazing.
I think for $100 more you can get the P series (which unfortunately they didn't have on display) which has local dimming (just from reading reviews apparently this makes the picture look better?) But idk if it's worth the extra money for me personally.
I don't know what your budget is but I figured I'd let you know about this TV.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYGISTO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lofYzbRDFE3WW
Any reason not to get the 2017 version New for $20 less? https://www.amazon.com/TCL-49S405-49-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01MYGISTO/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506013064&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=TCL+49S403
The best streaming device for TVs.
Assuming you talk about this.
Impossible to know for sure, but the fact that they are not taking orders at all suggests they are not sure if they will ever get more of them. But unless NVIDIA has discontinued it in favor of the remote-only bundle, my guess is that Amazon will get more stock at some point.
Note that Best Buy still has the full bundle in stock for $169.99.
What GPU do you have? If you have a fairly recent Nvidia setup, the best way (in my opinion) is to run a Nvidia Shield TV device and stream the gaming directly to that device.
I have one at home - works fantastically. Was worried that it wouldn't work for Steam, but not only does it work for Steam, it works for Origin and all other gaming as well!
Was referring to the Nvidia Shield
No Shield TV? I use that and it's amazing.
EDIT: I meant Android TV so a Mi Box or perhaps a Nexus player if you can find it would work.
Lucky, I got a price tag of 260 here in canada
The clients with the best compatability for 4k content are the Nvidia Shield and a PC running Plex Media Player.
Also, Your 960 is not going to choke playing 4k content. The weaker Integrated Graphics on Intel CPUs are more than capable of streaming 4k content.
Nvidia Shield is $20 off for $179.99. Not amazing, but if you were thinking of getting one already, it seems to be the lowest price I can find them.
Depends on how much you want to spend. A Pi3 would be the cheapest. But it might be easier setup to grab an Android TV box and put an emulator on it. BUt again it all depends on how much you want to spend
Here some Android options:
-1) https://www.amazon.com/NVIDIA-SHIELD-Streaming-Player-Controller/dp/B01N1NT9Y6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1527121083&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=nvidia+shield
2) https://www.geekbuying.com/item/H96-MAX-Rockchip-RK3399-Hexa-Core-64bit-4G-32G-4K-TV-BOX-379059.html
3) https://www.geekbuying.com/item/MX10-Android-7-1-2-RK3328-4GB-32GB-TV-Box-386668.html
4) https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mi-Box-Android-TV/54827138
Yeah i was reading reviews and a bunch of them said this https://www.amazon.com/TCL-55P607-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B06Y6FSV5Q/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510570576&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=tcl+4k+hdr Tv is amazing for the price. 4k, HDR, 120hz Refresh Rate. Great deal
Best overall tv for a budget
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y6FSV5Q?ref=emc_b_5_i
TCL looks to have an pretty nice line up on their P series for 2017. The specs are killer for the price points. Real hdr, full array local dimming something like 72 zones.
http://www.tclusa.com/products/home-theater/p-series/tcl-50-class-p-series-4k-uhd-hdr-roku-smart-tv-50p607
I think amazon recently had the 55" on pre order for like $600. 50" will be $500 when it release later this year.
If you are trying to get a huge 4k set for your price range, no way.
https://www.amazon.com/TCL-55P607-55-Inch-Ultra-Vision/dp/B06Y6FSV5Q
you can keep an eye on reviews, it should release this month
The new 2017 55" TCL P Series. 72 zone FALD, WCG, DolbyVision HDR, ultra low 15ms lag, built in Roku. There is a reason it is the #1 new item on Amazon. At its special intro price of $599 it is hard to find anything close that delivers the same performance. Amazon is saying 2-3 months, but TCL is saying mid June for shipping. Worth a look if you are not in a hurry.
https://www.amazon.com/TCL-55P607-55-Inch-Ultra-Vision/dp/B06Y6FSV5Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496245688&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=tcl+p
Make a short story shorter, I got a Xbox One X. I've been looking at a few TVs and the one that has stood out the most to me for the price is "TCL 55P607 55-Inch 4k Dolby Vision HDR Roku Smart" A link to the post will be at the bottom for Amazon($679) and Bestbuy($599). So to the questions: Right now this TV is $599 at Bestbuy, is this the best 4k HDR tv for the price? What is the difference between "Dolby Vision HDR" and "HDR 10"? Does the Xbox One X support DolbyV HDR and or would it just work like it's HDR 10? I feel like i'm missing something, is there anything else I should know?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y6FSV5Q
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/tcl-55-class-54-6-diag--led-2160p-smart-4k-ultra-hd-tv-with-high-dynamic-range-roku-tv/5878705.p?skuId=5878705
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B06Y6FSV5Q/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&amp;condition=new
The one from Amazon is still at $650
There are always tradeoffs for the cheaper vs the more expensive. It really depends on a lot of the bells and whistles and what they mean to you. HDR for instance, most likely isn't available on the $350 Westinghouse, even though it's a 4K tv. So it won't be taking full advantage of the possibilities of the Pro. It'll still give a much improved picture compared to the PS4 OG, but not the best you can get.
HDR itself is said to be even more impressive and a leap forward than 4K was to 2K, so if that's important to you, you'd need to splurge.
I'm in the same boat, looking at my first 4K and a Pro and I landed on this one. It doesn't release until June (from what TCL said), but I'm not in a hurry, and it's right at where I was hoping to spend $$ wise.
But for already released tvs, check out rtings. They have the best reviews I've come across and give reviews to individual categories like movies, games, etc. You'll see what you'd be sacrificing for price.
If you can live without the gamepad, you can get the base model for 179 right now. https://www.amazon.ca/NVIDIA-SHIELD-Streaming-Player-Remote/dp/B075RXV2VR/
Pay $40 more, get the Nvidia Shield TV and you have probably the best emulation box available.
https://www.amazon.com/NVIDIA-Shield-Streaming-Media-Player/dp/B075RXV2VR/
This would be my suggestion of what to buy for $3000. I'm sure most people on this sub would disagree with my more budget oriented picks. I'm just putting it out there.
Feel free to explain why I'm wrong.
Item | Price
---|---
VIZIO P-Series Quantum 65” | $1,500
Pioneer SP-PK52FS Andrew Jones 5.1 | $505
Denon AVRS740H | $403
100ft Speaker Wire | $13
Surge Protector | $25
Apple TV 4K or Nvidia Shield TV | $180
HDMI Cables (2x) | $13
Total | $2,666
|
Optional |
Banana Clips | $20
VESA Mount | $35
Atmos Speakers (In Ceiling) | $75
Atmos Speakers (Stand Alone) | $240
For 4K and HDR it is very important that your HDMI cables are capable of 18Gbps. I have never had any signal issues with Monoprice cables, and the slim form factor of these cables is ideal for cable routing and management. Two cables is the bare minimum you need to get up and running. Obviously buy the appropriate length and amount that you need.
**For the Atmos speakers you only need one of the two options. In-ceiling speakers are objectively the superior quality and cheaper option. But they are not realistic for everyone's living situation. That is why I included the stand-alone speaker option. The speakers I picked would replace your two surround speakers and act as both surround and Atmos channels.
More info on what? The shield? There's a few versions - regular and pro, with and without game controller.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RXV2VR/ref=twister_B00U37EA38?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It all depends on what you want to run. It used to be that if you had specific things you wanted like Prime Video for example, you had to go with something specific. That's mostly no longer the case anymore.
Apple TV is fantastic for almost all provider based apps with their TV section. If you have subs to things like HBO Go, Netflix, Hulu, etc. Doesn't support things like Kodi (There is an alternative to Kodi 16 called MrMc though), and forget about terrium. I've given up on most of those things since switching to plex shares, and now emby shares anyway, it's way more user friendly than constantly dicking with Kodi and the occasional crashes. To me it's the most polished of the 4 options, and the remote is the nicest to use.
For Android TV the shield is hard to justify, but nothing else touches it in terms of smoothness. It's on par with the Apple TV in terms of how effortless it runs. The remote kind of sucks though, and it's more expensive. It is better than the Mi, but $100 better? Only if you care about 4K amazon video or a few other things like that. If you're into Kodi then you probably want the Shield, or even the Shield Pro. It's the only box that can really handle it reasonably well. Kodi will literally turn my Mi Box into a fiery inferno until it eventually locks up due to thermal protection.
FireTV is kind of the outsider. It can do most everything a Mi Box can do, but is mainly geared towards buying and watching all things amazon. You can sideload things onto it though. Some people prefer the interface to Amazon TV, but I'm not sold. Never really did like the Prime App. The stick as you've discovered is woefully underpowered though. The previous gen box is ok though, more powerful than the Mi Box but not as much as the Shield.
Roku is kind of the "keep it simple" of the bunch. They aren't a content provider like Apple, Fire TV, etc, so they remained neutral and had the most app support for a long time (except Apple Movies). Prime Video, Netflix, Hulu, etc, they were one of the only ones that had it all for a long time. I find that the interface is kind of dumb and woefully outdated though. It feels slower than just about everything else, and it's very restrictive on what you can do with it. You can't even set your own DNS or static IP for christ's sake. The other poster did have it right though, it is very stable and simple. I see a lot of older people using Roku.
Nvidia Shield.
Shield at Amazon
So, it costs more... at least it works better than my flashing screen piece of crap Premier plus that they don’t care to fix.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075RXV2VR?aaxitk=rGcnetEjFaLF6gecLWitXw&amp;pd_rd_i=B075RXV2VR&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_p=42a36a50-34e6-4541-8fbe-901185ed0a9a&amp;pf_rd_s=mobile-sx-top-slot&amp;pf_rd_t=9701&amp;pf_rd_i=Nvidia+shield&amp;hsa_cr_id=9566410500001&amp;sb-ci-n=asinImage&amp;sb-ci-v=https%3A%2F%2Fimages-na.ssl-images-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FI%2F31v8CBjlG-L.jpg&amp;sb-ci-a=B075RXV2VR
You might be better off with two separate articulating mounts like this or this (if there is enough lateral distance for the far right one).
Note: You'll need to mount them to studs. Don't try and hang a monitor off just drywall.
https://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Articulating-Monitor-Bracket-ML10B/dp/B000ID7QNI
I got three of these. They are ok. Even though I mounted them level the monitors ended up at slightly different angles so the edges don't match up well.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ID7QNI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ID7QNI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It's a solid mount now that it's installed, but installing it by myself was a bit of a pain in the ass. If you're mounting anything bigger than like a 19-inch screen, grab a buddy to hold it steady for you while you drill it into the wall. The tilt/swing work very nicely for my needs.
Budget around $600
Type 5.1 surround sound
Setup Desktop PC
Uses gaming, watching movies, or listening to music
Room dimensions not quite sure. About 10' by 12'
Idea #1
Center speaker: Pioneer SP-C22 Andrew Jones Designed Center Channel Speaker
Front/Rear speakers: Pioneer SP-BS22-LR Andrew Jones Designed Bookshelf Loudspeakers
Subwoofer: Polk Audio PSW10 10-Inch Monitor Series Powered Subwoofer
Idea #2
Energy 5.1 Take Classic Home Theater System
Specs:
My mother board: MSI Z87-G43
My graphics card: EVGA gtx760
Running windows 7 home premium
Questions:
What I would like:
edit: formatting
Note: If you wait around, you may be able to find the monoprice speakers for significantly cheaper. Last week they were $188.99 w/ free shipping through rakuten.com.
Interestingly, cnet actually likes the sound of the monoprice speakers better than the Energy 5.1 Takes
Those all seem like decent choices.
Another option would be to just go straight for an Energy Take 5.1 system, for $300. They are pretty well regarded, and you could be done. The Dayton sub will play lower (though the sub can always be upgraded to just about anything), and some of the other speakers are indeed better, but this is a very good value based system that very many folks enjoy.
Well, there are different levels.
For example, you could go with something like this at $400:
http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Classic-Theater-System-Black/dp/B001202C44/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1370290312&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=energy+take+classic+5.1
Or, you could get a more serious system from a company like Aperion Audio, where the cheapest system is a little over $1100: http://www.aperionaudio.com/speakers/intimus-home-theater-speakers/intimus-4b-harmony-sa
The range can be large for these types of systems, depending on what you're looking for.
That’s gonna be tight but here is one setup. I would do a receiver and two bookshelves and maybe a sub and slowly build the system up. But if you must...
Receiver: $129 Denon S530bt
https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavrs530bt/denon-avr-s530bt-5.2-ch-x-70-watts-bluetooth-a/v-receiver/1.html
Speakers: $299 Energy Take 5.1
Energy 5.1 Take Classic Home Theater System (Set of Six, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001202C44/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Uff5Ab4KFSVP9
Here are some decent bookshelves and sub to be used with the above receiver: $165
Klipsch R-14M 4-Inch Reference Bookshelf Speakers (Pair, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MGQAH2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Hof5Ab9WCGEA2
Subwoofer: $212 Bic F12
BIC America F12 12-Inch 475-Watt Front Firing Powered Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015A8Y5M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_puf5AbGEX1XGJ
https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-Reference-Theater-Surround-System/dp/B0779GRFWF
https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V385-5-1-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B07BNXXJKB
You could likely also get a good receiver used for less.
If you want stereo speakers that would be amazing for music as well
https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-Reference-Premiere-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B07G3D2C8S
I like the sound profile of Klipsch horn speakers. Personal preference.
These Energy are the gold standard for an affordable 5.1 set.
https://www.amazon.com/Energy-Classic-Theater-System-Black/dp/B001202C44
You are not going to get many recommendations on here for a home theater in a box (HTiB) because the quality of them is just not very good (this article sums it up pretty well). I can provide some suggestions to make shopping as easy as possible: In the $500 range, I would suggest a refurbished Denon AVR-E300 from accessories4less, since it has room correction. You could save $30 and get a Denon 1513 or E200 from the same site if your dad isn't going to bother with a set up mic.
For speakers, the best option near your budget is the Energy Take Classic, which includes a sub, of sorts.
If you were willing to go the $1000 route, you've got several options, though I probably wouldn't spend much more on the receiver than those options above. Instead, get him better speakers; even a non-audiophile will be able to tell the difference, particularly when it comes to the sub. one option would be 2 pairs of Pioneer SP-BS22-LR for the front and surrounds ($125 per pair) and the matching Pioneer SP-C22 center for $100. For a little more, you could go to http://stores.ebay.com/baja-waverunner who is basically an authorized dealer for Definitive Technology's refurbished/open box gear on ebay, completely trust-worthy. You should be able to get a pair of ProMonitor 1000s up front, ProCenter 800s in the rear and a Procenter 2000 (looks like he may not have those in stock at the moment) for around $500.
That brings you to subs (if you don't go for the Energy system): Bic America F12 is usually $190, Dayton Sub1200/1000 about $160 and $140 respectively. Or, blow the whole budget and get a Hsu STF2
You'll also need to buy him speaker wire if He doesn't already have some: monoprice is your best bet, no real reason not to get 14 or 12 gauge. And a cable for the subwoofer (this is 12 ft., but they sell different lengths).
Great budget home theater speakers. In good condition and working perfectly. Includes speaker stands.
Located in Midtown.
https://www.energy-speakers.com/home-theater-systems/?sku=TK-CLASSI-5-1
https://www.cnet.com/reviews/energy-take-classic-5-1-review/
https://www.amazon.com/Energy-Classic-Theater-System-Black/dp/B001202C44
Receiver: $144
https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavrs530bt/denon-avr-s530bt-5.2-ch-x-70-watts-bluetooth-a/v-receiver/1.html
5.1 speakers: $250
https://www.amazon.com/Energy-Classic-Theater-System-Black/dp/B001202C44/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522167162&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=5.1+speakers
For speakers, If you sort Amazon's speaker selection by average customer review Energy Take 5's are ontop with 472 reviews at a 4.5 rating. Also Cnet.net gave them the editors choice awards and G4TV gave them 5 out of 5 LINK They are small but they pack a punch for the price (gives you more money for the T.V)
LCD LED Plasma comparison ZEOS overview
If money is tight with the TV and Speakers needed.. It might be best to wait until black friday, it's in about 17 weeks.
I had em for a few years because they are a great turnkey product but they are not great. The bass is tweakable but it doesn't take away from the fact that the sub is crossed over quite high in order to make up for the fact that the satellites speakers are pretty crap.
Some Energy Take Classics and a 5.1 receiver off of ebay and you have better sound quality for about the same price.
It's pretty easy to setup a PC to a receiver. Toslink or just some 3.5mm to dual RCA plugs and you're good to go.
Something like that. I tried a few before settling on Serviio, and they all seem to be distributed with various codec packages. I haven't gotten that far into the nuts&bolts of it yet, I was more obsessed with finding something that works. The other two Universal Media Server and Home Media Center weren't nearly as effective. Serviio has been more of an install-and-play, though I dislike the fact that unlike the others it installs a Windows background service to operate.
DLNA is basically the language they've established so devices can talk to each other. If your television works with wifi or can accept a USB adapter, phones and tablets, or in my case I bought a WD TV Live. Roku and I believe Chromecast are other alternatives.
wdtv live- shittier version of xbmc but you can stream from a network share. its great.
http://www.amazon.com/Live-Media-Player-Wi-fi-1080p/dp/B005KOZNBW
I do! This unit, specifically.
Amusingly enough, it's only set-top device that I've found that allows streaming directly from another computer (NFS or CIFS/SMB/Windows) without hassle. No transcoding bullshit, no worrying about file formats. If it has issues playing something, each time it's been the file that was jacked up.
The network control is wonderful. Who needs a remote? Shove the little box behind the TV, grab your smartphone, and control it.
Does streaming too, bunch of places (not nearly as many as Roku, but Roku doesn't do LAN streaming). Biggest gripe is that it doesn't support Amazon Prime.
Basically anything you would except to see in VLC/Mplayer/Whatever, it can do. Subtitless, audio tracks, slow-mo/freeze frame, etc.
Haven't figured out how to queue up multiple files at a time, but I haven't looked that hard, either.
buy this instead:
http://www.amazon.com/Live-Media-Player-Wi-fi-1080p/dp/B005KOZNBW/
Have you thought about using something like a WD stream box? I was thinking of picking one up myself.
http://www.amazon.com/Live-Media-Player-Wi-fi-1080p/dp/B005KOZNBW
While the latest WD TV Live (WD TV Live Streaming, Released 2011) is less than $100
it doesn't have Composite inputs.The one before the latest (WD TV Live Hub, Released 2010) does have component and composite inputs but currently costs more than $150 on amazon.
Edit: The latest one does have a composite input.
How about a WDTV Live? Has HDMI and optical ins. $79.
http://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Streaming-Media-Player/dp/B005KOZNBW/ref=dp_ob_title_ce
Apple TV or a HDMI transmitter/receiver
We've used one of these (first link) with the adapter (second link) to tackle this problem. It doesn't work for sound if you use the VGA. Our AV vendor is recommending one of these - http://www.wepresentwifi.com/wipg2000.html
WirelessHDMI
HDMI to VGA
You could get this for $180: http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Wireless-WiFi-Multi-Room-Video/dp/B005L9ZZ32/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_1_0
Or this for $170: http://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-Transmitter-Streaming-Satellite-NPCS549/dp/B009E6R89C/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_0_1
Both of them stream in uncompressed 1080p and they claim to have zero latency. You could search other places to find them cheaper but if you're looking for 1080p, this is what you're gonna have to be looking at. You could also get a 30' HDMI cable though and route it around the edges of the wall on the ground.
EDIT: By the way, if you get an HDMI cable, don't get the more expensive ones, there is really no difference between the expensive ones and the cheap ones.
Then This and any DVD player you want. Put the thing in a cabinet, another room if you want, wherever. Also, has the added bonus of being able to switch what you plug into it- i.e. laptop, ipad, etc.
Btw- if you're intent on putting it behind the tv, this Toshiba is the only one of its type I've run across. Amazon sells a mount for it too. Definitely read the reviews however- I didn't think it worth the risk.
To send anything wirelessly you are going to need something like wireless HDMI, it aint cheap here is an example. You can add this to an HDMI switch and connect you devices to that
Wireless earphones wont connect directly to the projector, but they probably can to the source you are sending to the projector.
For games, you need somesort of console and then send that signal to the projector.
A computer can also take advantage of your hdmi switch and then the wireless hdmi
Think of a projector as a computer monitor. Basically anything you can do with a monitor you can do with a projector, but it is basically a dumb device that only displays what gets sent to it from another source.
What do you need USB for? I know some business projectors have USB but that is basically for playing back powerpoints and stuff.
> a
This is what I use in my kit. The range can be a little limited but it gets you wireless.
https://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-Transmitter-Streaming-Projector-NPCS549/dp/B009E6R89C
You could get something like this but it's only for a single source so you would need something like a stereo receiver to have all the devices to go into then a splitter to split the output to the wireless device and the living room TV. You will have a bit of lag and some compression on the tv with the wireless receiver.
So he'd rather have a huge cylinder on the ground? How about a Wireless HDMI Transmiter instead?
I tried this Nyrius product http://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-Transmitter-Streaming-Satellite-NPCS549/dp/B009E6R89C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458932662&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=nyrius but i didn't like it because it left detail out of dark scenes and I had to manually configure 5.1 sound every time because it always defaulted to stereo. I would just buy a thin, white hdmi cable to match your walls and run it directly to the tv. The picture will look better and you won't have to configure stuff over and over and over. The look of not having a wire there is not worth the daily time-consuming hassle. I bought this long hdmi cable instead of going wireless http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Clarity-Built-Signal-Booster/dp/B00SI1JIKQ?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
devices similar to this http://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-Transmitter-Streaming-Satellite-NPCS549/dp/B009E6R89C
Thanks for the reply.
I have been looking at this... http://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-Transmitter-Streaming-Satellite-NPCS549/dp/B009E6R89C
Basically you rent the cable box (already have 2) and plug it into this, then you can move it between multiple TVs.
Something like this? http://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-Transmitter-Streaming-Satellite-NPCS549/dp/B009E6R89C/ref=pd_sim_e_3/186-8481547-7454732?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1B1E7585EBM6ZA0BCMA1
Your options:
I like the first option, it is what I do at home. I use a laptop to do real work, gaming pc on my tv for entertainment.
The second and third options are good if you really want your pc at your desk. 45ft is the max that hdmi can go through wires. Depending on your setup that might be long enough to make a permanent solution.
Wireless while not cheap, is better than running through a secondary device.
steam link
and there are many other options, although they will probably all have some input delay
https://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-Transmitter-Streaming-Projector-NPCS549/dp/B009E6R89C
Something like this Might work for you. It's a bit pricey, but ti should do what you are looking to do. I can't personally speak to the quality as I haven't use it before. but the reviews look pretty good.
We shifted to a couple of these Nyrius Aries wireless display options in our conference rooms. Plug it in, and it "just works" (which was very important for our non-techy users). So far, its worked great (we're a few months in).
&#x200B;
We tried a Barco Clickshare, but after connecting to your PC, you had to install an extra piece of software from the thumb drive it created. which was "too much" to ask for our end users. ;)
Precisely, that's what it'll allow you to do. The downside is that they can be pretty expensive for a good one (like this, judging by customer reviews), and even then, the signal won't be as stable as with a wired HDMI connection. That's why, if you have to go with wireless, I recommend you get the best possible wireless HDMI system you can afford, as the lower-end ones will usually give you lag, connection problems, and/or instability. If you have the option between wired and wireless HDMI (like if you're in a situation where you just don't want to deal with cable management or it looks ugly), I strongly suggest you stick with wired, as it's much less expensive and you'll almost always get better picture quality than most wireless HDMI connections.
Not really sure what your exact requirements are for this though so the following may not apply but here goes...
If there is already a video village set up, I would get a field monitor and plug in to an open HDMI port. Bring a splitter if you need to. They can provide 1080 resolution for a decent price and as an added bonus, there will be no lag. Here is a 7" full HD "Amazon's choice" model for $140. Runs on battery too.
Getting it streamed to your phone is going to get involved since it would like involve having to convert the video signal to a stream. If you want to get away from the video village you could go with a wireless HDMI transmitter receiver like this: https://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-Transmitter-Streaming-Projector-NPCS549/dp/B009E6R89C but it would be way cheaper to just buy a long HDMI cable.
I'm not sure if you're aware but there's a deal for a PS4, BF4, and PS+ in a bundle all for $499.
http://www.amazon.com/PlayStation-4-Standard-Edition/dp/B00CMQTVQO/ref=sr_tr_sr_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1371564872&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=playstation+4
Here the link from the chat:
http://www.amazon.com/PlayStation-4-Standard-Edition/dp/B00CMQTVQO/ref=sr_tr_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1371128754&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=ps4
FYI, for me it would be, estimated, $399 + shipping + 23% which comes out at around $570, compared to $530 (399 euro) in EU release, probably more in my country.
edit: just pre-ordered for Poland (moved here a year ago), price is $511 and $522 with 2 day shipping:
http://i.imgur.com/cfgIHRw.png
this is at least $10 cheaper than EU price, and probably $50-100 cheaper than in Poland.
edit: price for order in NL, with shipping and taxes: http://i.imgur.com/4eInwf7.png
nice.
edit: also keep in mind, in Poland for example the official release is planned early 2014. means you get the ps4 not only much cheaper but also month earlier on US release.
http://www.amazon.com/PlayStation-4-Standard-Edition/dp/B00CMQTVQO/ref=sr_tr_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1371136178&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ps4
Amazon releases 12/31/2013 but that's just Amazon.
http://www.expertreviews.co.uk/games/1298257/ps4-drm-controller-price-release-date-specs-news
This one is saying Holiday 2013 for US. Which could mean either Thanksgiving (November) or Christmas (December) both end of the year months, my statement about next year releases still stands.
The most expensive thing there is the ps4
>Nope.
>There's two editions available at Amazon: Launch edition and Standard Edition.
>Launch edition is officially sold out.
when was the last time you checked amazon? there are 6 editions.
all of them are in stock except the stand alone launch edition. all of the launch bundles are in stock. here's the link to one of the in stock launch bundles, and you can click to check the status of the others
http://www.amazon.com/PlayStation-4-Standard-Edition/dp/B00CMQTVQO/ref=sr_tr_sr_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1371660908&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ps4
Honestly? Until recently my White chair was my most expensive. Truth is I'm in need of a new chair.. my is breaking and at my size I just can't buy any old chair.. however.. when This was announced... it took over the #1 spot as the most expensive item on my list.
I want it because I've always been a PS supported. I believe in Sony and the PS brand.. I owned a PS1 and a PS2 as well as a PS3. Plus I'm a youtube-er. I make and post videos for youtube and the PS4 would go a long long loooooooong way in helping my channel!
If I never got a PS4 would I be okay? Well kind of? I mean I'm not going to die if I don;t get one.. however I really want it.. not just for the youtube thing but.. well here comes the sob story. Last year I took my ps3 and sold it so I could have Christmas money for my Niece and Nephew. My ps3 and a ton of awesome games sold them to gamestop for 400 bucks so I could Christmas shop... now I look at a lot of the games that come out and don;t come to PC and I really tend to get depressed about it. I know it sounds silly cause well hell it's just video games.. but it's how I feel.... so I really want to get a PS4.
Top three most expensive for me are the PS4, KitchenAid, and the Kindle Paperwhite. I'm still deciding which DSLR I want to pick up and I'm talking to the photographers I work with to make a decision.
Talking about console peasants, why are you not modding the game? Couldn't you use DSfix to increase the resolution? The solution is right in front of your eyes.
PC gamers mod the hell out of their games, UI could be changed to match keyboard/mouse controls, high resolution packs, and here you are funnily expecting everything to work right out of the box.
I'll be nice and link you to Dark Souls nexus mods and /r/darksouls. Or you could go ahead and preorder the PS4 here.
If it has to be already released, and money was no object, I would probably get Lego Hogwarts.
However, out of ANYTHING on my lists for me, I would get a PS4!!!!!
If I were able to get anything though for anyone, I would most likely get stuff for my hubby and kiddos. I would get my hubby one of the pairs of shoes on his list for work because he is on his feet all day and goes through shoes quickly; I would get the Star Wars wampa rug for my son; and the Little Tikes playhouse for my daughter :-) (I know this discussion was for ourselves, but honestly my dream would be to get everything on my hubby and kiddos lists because I love giving them gifts more than getting things for myself!!!)
Here goes! It looks like I got all but 1 item from my current wishlist. Yah!
1.) Something that is grey.
2.) Something reminiscent of rain. Why not a raincoat?
3.) Something food related that is unusual. These are from Japan and Matcha flavor is hard to find in the US!
4.) Something on your list that is for someone other than yourself. Tell me who it's for and why. (Yes, pets count!) For my son! He's a nugget.
5.) A book I should read! I am an avid reader, so take your best shot and tell me why I need to read it! Guy Gavriel Kay is an amazing writer and I think everyone should read his books. They evoke so many emotions!
6.) An item that is less than a dollar, including shipping... that is not jewelry, nail polish, and or hair related! How about free? Read the classics!
7.) Something related to cats. I love cats! (keep this SFW, you know who you are...) NO.
8.) Something that is not useful, but so beautiful you must have it. I think by definition art is not useful, but very beautiful!
9.) A movie everyone should watch at least once in their life. Why? Because Neil Patrick Harris and Nathan Fillion are amazing.
10.) Something that would be useful when the zombies attack. Explain. For stabbing. It's a silent weapon, which is best. You don't want to attract more of the undead.
11.) Something that would have a profound impact on your life and help you to achieve your current goals. My current goal is to be more active as I try to lose weight, but foot pain is a big barrier to walking/exercising more. I have heard awesome things about this foot wrap and it would be a huge help and keep me from being in pain as I exercise!
12.) One of those pesky Add-On items. It's hard to find in stores now, weirdly. And it's all I wear daily!
13.) The most expensive thing on your list. Your dream item. Why? PS4!
14.) Something bigger than a bread box. EDIT A bread box is typically similar in size to a microwave. Home. Made. Cappucino. It can go right next to the breadbox.
15.) Something smaller than a golf ball. This is pocket sized!
16.) Something that smells wonderful. Apples!!
17.) A (SFW) toy. She-Ra is pretty safe for work
18.) Something that would be helpful for going back to school. If you're in college, you're gonna need one of these.
19.) Something related to your current obsession, whatever that may be. Adventure Time! Come on, grab your friends!
20.) Something that is just so amazing and awe-inspiring that I simply must see it. Explain why it is so grand. What's mrore amazing than being INSANELY comfortable? Just look at it! Get inspired to sleep. It looks so comfy, I can't handle it.
fear cuts deeper than swords
/u/MeishkaD said that my entry disappeared, so here it is again. I've deleted my previous entry now (after you said it disappeared), just to make sure it doesn't show up twice.
---
1.) Something that is grey. [Not on wishlist]
2.) Something reminiscent of rain. [Not on wishlist]
3.) Something food related that is unusual.
4.) Something on your list that is for someone other than yourself. Tell me who it's for and why. (Yes, pets count!)
This is for my classroom mostly. One of the projects the student's like to do is making board games. They like using various types of die, but when we made cardboard ones, they fall apart.
5.) A book I should read! I am an avid reader, so take your best shot and tell me why I need to read it!
I can't give too great a reference. This book is on my wishlist, as I've not read it, after all. It's supposed to be really funny though, with an interesting story. The downside is that getting the whole series is too expensive.
6.) An item that is less than a dollar, including shipping... that is not jewelry, nail polish, and or hair related! [Not on wishlist]
7.) Something related to cats. I love cats! (keep this SFW, you know who you are...)
These are pretty awesome.
8.) Something that is not useful, but so beautiful you must have it. [Not on wishlist]
I've wanted one of these for ages, but they're not useful enough to justify.
9.) A movie everyone should watch at least once in their life. Why? [Not on wishlist - I own it]
It's incredibly funny and almost everyone has seen the film it's based on. A lot of people have never even seen a parody movie, so it's a new genre to a lot of people and thus a new experience.
10.) Something that would be useful when the zombies attack. Explain.
A bit of a different item than normal. When the zombies attack, we're going to need to be well rested. Baseball bats and the like are common enough, but a good pillow is hard to find.
11.) Something that would have a profound impact on your life and help you to achieve your current goals. [Not on wishlist, as Amazon.co.uk item]
A book about learning to become a Primary School teacher. After my current teaching job, I want to go back and train as one in my home country.
12.) One of those pesky Add-On items. [Not on wishlist - the base game is on wishlist].
13.) The most expensive thing on your list. Your dream item. Why?
Playstation 4. It's not on my wishlist as I think anyone would ever buy it, but more to remind myself that it's region-free and only $400 in the US if I can get enough giftcards someday. In my home country it's about $550. The why is mostly Kingdom Hearts 3 and Final Fantasy XV - both series which I've gained a lot of enjoyment from. There's also that some of my favorite series such as Disgaea are Playstation-exclusive.
14.) Something bigger than a bread box.
15.) Something smaller than a golf ball.
16.) Something that smells wonderful.
17.) A (SFW) toy.
18.) Something that would be helpful for going back to school.
(For reading digital textbooks on)
19.) Something related to your current obsession, whatever that may be.
Disgaea D2. My current obsession has been trying to convert my old Disgaea 3 save, which has 120 hours and my Disgaea 4 save which has 95 hours, so that I can use it on another PS3.
20.) Something that is just so amazing and awe-inspiring that I simply must see it. Explain why it is so grand. [Not on wishlist.. but it should be]
The toilet throne. It's amazing that someone has thought of it, if nothing else. Now you can feel like a Queen or King, while going to the restroom.
---
Bonus: Made in Oregon
Raffle: fear cuts deeper than swords
1.) Something that is grey: Sculpy! From my cosplay wishlist! :D
2.) Something reminiscent of rain: This hair accessory from my Silly Fun list! I don't know if they're meant to, but the blue bits remind me of raindrops. &lt;3
3.) Something food related that is unusual: Food picks from my Silly Fun list! Maybe not super unusual in Japan, but here in America I doubt you'd see them often.
4.) Something on your list that is for someone other than yourself: This book off my Books wishlist of course! It's for my husband, who's a huge fan of the Elder Scrolls games. I like them, too, but I doubt I'd ever read this.
5.) A book I should read: The Invisible Gorilla, again, off my Books list. I read almost a third of this book while hidden in a book store one day. It's an absolutely fascinating study (or rather, collection of studies) about how much trust we place in our own faulty intuitions.
6.) An item that is less than a dollar, including shipping... that is not jewelry, nail polish, and or hair related: Barely, but this nautical star decal! Unfortunately, it's not on any of my lists.
7.) Something related to cats: Another from my Books wishlist! I'm pretty sure I already know my cat wants to kill me, but this book looks funny anyway.
8.) Something that is not useful, but so beautiful you must have it: Stationary, from my Silly Fun list. I have no one to write to, but I have an obsession with pretty stationary and cards and things. I'm usually too afraid to write on it, even, because nothing ever seems worthy of the pretty paper...
9.) A movie everyone should watch at least once in their life: From my Movies/TV list: Braveheart! Because FREEEDOOOOOOM!!!!!
10.) Something that would be useful when the zombies attack. Explain: Survival knife from my Adventure wishlist! Secluded, unpopulated areas are best for hiding from zombies, and this thing even comes with a firestarter! HOW CAN YOU SAY NO?
11.) Something that would have a profound impact on your life and help you to achieve your current goals: This book which is, strangely, on my Semi-Practical list. I'm a Math/Physics major, but I haven't been in school in quite a while. I'm about to go back very soon, and I'm a little petrified of failing out.
12.) One of those pesky Add-On items: Red Heart yarn from my Crochet wishlist!
13.) The most expensive thing on your list. Your dream item: The PS4 from my Video Games list. I'm an avid gamer. Video games are how I relax. It's one of the few things that, no matter how crappy my day was, always manages to raise my spirits and help me forget about it all.
14.) Something bigger than a bread box: Apparently bread boxes are way bigger than I thought, so I'll go with this desk off my Semi-Practical wishlist. Surely that's big enough! XD
15.) Something smaller than a golf ball: Turtle earrings off my Silly Fun list! THEY'RE SO CUTE!
16.) Something that smells wonderful: Teavana's Blueberry Bliss tea off my Silly Fun list (yet again). If you've never been in a Teavana store, go this second and just...inhale. &lt;3
17.) A (SFW) toy: Frog mitt from my Practical list. I'm fairly certain this isn't supposed to be a toy, but I get the feeling I'm going to spend more time using it as a puppet than as an oven mitt.
18.) Something that would be helpful for going back to school: This backpack from my Semi-Practical list! I want it so badly!! IT'S STUDIO GHIBLI HOW AWESOME IS THAT?
19.) Something related to your current obsession, whatever that may be: 12 Hole Ocarina from my Ocarina wishlist. It's so beautiful and it comes with a Lord of the Rings songbook and I just LOVE IT SO MUCH.
20.) Something that is just so amazing and awe-inspiring that I simply must see it. Explain why it is so grand: Shark sleeping bag from my Silly Fun wishlist! You need me to explain it's awesome?? REALLY? IT'S A SHARK SLEEPING BAG. It looks like the shark is eating you!! Plus it's called the "Chumbuddy" and that just makes me laugh way harder than it should.
Fear cuts deeper than swords!
1.) Something that is grey.
2.) Something reminiscent of rain. It always rains when I go camping
3.) Something food related that is unusual. Tiramisu wafer cookies. Better than sex.
4.) Something on your list that is for someone other than yourself. I have a whole wishlist for other people. My boyfriend, gramdma, mom, dad, and little brother.
5.) A book you should read! Clearly. You should have read these already because they are the best books evar.
6.) An item that is less than a dollar, including shipping Not on my wishlist
7.) Something related to cats Leopards are big cats.
8.) Something that is not useful, but so beautiful you must have it.
9.) A movie everyone should watch at least once in their life. Because it's the best trilogy of all time.
10.) Something that would be useful when the zombies attack. To whack them in the head and the use the pick to smash their brains out. And it's foldable so it will fit in a backpack.
11.) Something that would have a profound impact on your life and help you to achieve your current goals. I'm a student and I practically live in the library most of the school year. I need a laptop because the computers at school are SO outdated.
12.) One of those pesky Add-On items.
13.) The most expensive thing on your list. Your dream item. PS4! I need this because I love to game and I really, really need Kingdom Hearts 3. Like really.
14.) Something bigger than a bread box.
15.) Something smaller than a golf ball.
16.) Something that smells wonderful. This is the BEST SCENT EVER. It smells like marshmallows, fire burning, and vanilla.
17.) A (SFW) toy. Grown-up toy!
18.) Something that would be helpful for going back to school.
19.) Something related to your current obsession, whatever that may be. Harry Potter is always an obsession.
[20.) Something that is just so amazing and awe-inspiring that I simply must see it. ]()
[Anything that has my real name on it.]()
Anything made in Oregon. This is a bit of a stretch but bear with me. The Bourne Triology preceeds The Bournce Legacy. Which starred Edward Norton who also starred in Fight Club. A movie based off the book who was written by none other than Chuck Palahniuk who is from Oregon & resides there.
I'll be back to finish this!
fear cuts deeper than swords
Based on pre-sales, i think you are prediction is a loss.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CMQTVQO/ref=s9_psimh_gw_p63_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=center-2&amp;pf_rd_r=1CKRH86KDMDYSXX6WDXF&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=1389517282&amp;pf_rd_i=507846
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CMQTVQO
Here's the link! Killzone bundle is also available!
Here you go
It's probably a new home and a TV
/edit: Read the reviews!
Now how much does it cost in Canada?
http://www.amazon.ca/Samsung-UN105S9-Curved-105-Inch-Ultra/dp/B00L403O8U
Only if this one lasts you 6 years. Ha! The damn things go obsolete so quickly these days. Tho wants to be caught with a curved 105" UHD 120Hz 3D LED Smart TV from 2008 now?
The TV being reviewed on
If you want good amazon reviews, take a look at these reviews of this $120,000 TV
> "After selling my family into slavery I was able to afford this great TV! All and all with the amazing graphics and screen it was a great deal!"
Fucking. Classic.
Non-mobile version
Reminds me of this review.
When it says "Ships from and sold by Amazon" like this, I agree that Amazon sets the price.
But when it says "Sold by Fulfilled by Amazon" like this, Amazon does not set the price.
So, I only responded to point out that being fulfilled by amazon does not mean that amazon sets the price.
Does this work on the new Firestick
How would you put it on using a Mac?
The remote to my Amazon firestick
Sure. Amazon has two types, the cheaper stick for $30 is enough.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZV9RDKK/ref=fs_ods_fs_smp_tk/136-8572811-6754715
Maybe they'll improve them one day, but ATM AndroidTV's/SmartTV's are rather lacking overall IME.
I have HTPC's & ATV boxes on dumb monitors myself.
If you really need something that's powered off the USB port, check out the Amazon Firestick & see if it suits your needs..?
The new Fire TV stick supports h265 - https://www.amazon.com/All-New-Fire-TV-Stick-With-Alexa-Voice-Remote-Streaming-Media-Player/dp/B00ZV9RDKK
The Amazon Fire Stick is on sale this weekend for $30 on [Amazon](All-New Fire TV Stick with Alexa Voice Remote | Streaming Media Player https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZV9RDKK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Lppoyb51PJTXN).
You can install Kodi from following method 1.
I just did this the other day and I'm about to cancel my U-Verse TV.
This one?
https://www.amazon.com/All-New-Stick-Remote-Streaming-Player/dp/B00ZV9RDKK/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478801735&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=fire+stick
I did this on the new firestick with Alexa and put it on the TV at my sweetheart's house. It works wonderfully for streaming apps but there is not much memory for media to be stored on the device or any way to add local storage. I haven't connected any network storage at her house to see how well that works but I imagine it is fine. The firestick runs KODI like a champ. It also has Netflix and Amazon apps.
It’s basically a small stick with an HDMI plug you put in your TV that you can download Netflix, Hulu, YouTube, etc. on to. I’m in the US so I’m not sure if this link will work for you or not: www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZV9RDKK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9i-5Ab5JZ17GR
What device are you planning on using to stream? If you have capable hardware, you could get a FireTV Stick, load Moonlight, and use the GeForce Experience to stream your desktop.
I have an iPod Touch 6th gen that I used for building and testing a VR app for a client. It is usable, but not ideal. (I'd say /u/amb9800 is a little harsh is saying "it's not worth trying".)
The HMD options are limited. Most will create gaps on the side, because they expect 5"+ phones. In my case I used it with a View Master VR headset with the iPod. (note: I have not tried the Deluxe edition). I've found it works the best, because it was originally designed with kids in mind.
If you just want to start out, using your iPhone, just grab the View Master VR. If you then end up wanting a better VR experience you can grab a refurbished phone, or upgrade your phone, and a higher end headset.
Would have been ever funnier if it was this:
http://www.amazon.com/View-Master-Virtual-Reality-Starter-Pack/dp/B011EG5HJ2
I'm rather impressed by your home-made cardboard rig, actually!
New to this whole VR thing here, having just been surprised with a [Viewmaster VR] (http://www.amazon.com/View-Master-Virtual-Reality-Starter-Pack/dp/B011EG5HJ2) starter for X-mas.
What is the rig you mentioned in the video? The ViewMaster is made for kids, and supremely "entry level" with it's lack of headstrap, but similar ones with headstraps are available for around the same price point ...
Edit: spacing
Viewmaster worked fine on my 6p so I imagine will with Pixel.
View-Master Virtual Reality Starter Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011EG5HJ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DYJmybT1C0HXB
Even better deal through Amazon warehouse deals ;-) http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B011EG5HJ2/ref=dp_olp_used?ie=UTF8&amp;condition=used
I see, I will get the diamonds then. Also I will ditch the Lepy 2024A amp, and instead go with the more expensive SMSL SA-36A
The Lepy have apparently very annoying LED lights, the SMSL looks to be less annoying. Also with the change in amplifier it looks like its not compatible with the 3.5 to 3.5mm cable. So will this do instead? By connecting the phono cables to the L and R on the AMP and the 3.5 to my motherboard.
So, if you like the convenience of the Pill, but want more ooomph, I've gotta recommend the Logitech UE Boombox. It's been discontinued, but you can get new or practically new models on eBay for 70 bucks or so.
I've owned a lot of nice Bluetooth speakers, and some decent audio gear, and pound for pound nothing really touches the thing.
I would recommend heading up your local Goodwill or other thrift store for speakers and an old receiver. With a pretty minimal amount of footwork, you can grab something that probably cost $1000 back in the day for $100.
Skip Marantz as it's really over priced at this point, but brands like Realistic, Rotel, Sansui, and Pioneer are still affordable. They look cool as shit, and have a nice distinctive sound. You can probably get a low-end 20 or 30 W per channel Realistic off craigslist or at your local thrift shop for 30 bucks.
You can then get a nice set of Boston Acoustic or Polk audio speakers for another 50 bucks. Just make sure the foam around the subwoofers is fine, and that the tweeters aren't busted. Most people are happy to hook them up for you to listen to.
If you don't want to mess with older stuff, grab one of these :
ttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B017W13OR0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hg16xbX21C1NM
And a set of these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E7H8GG2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ih16xb227QN96
And two of these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011LXUKE0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5j16xb4JV5NZ5
Alternatively, grab the amp and wires new, and then get the speakers used off eBay or Craigslist or whatever. Speakers lose value at an alarming rate, but at the sub-$100 price point you're not really risking much.
For reference, I got a set of B+W CM2 speakers for $90 off Craigslist. They were almost $1000 new 12 years ago.
Wharfedale Diamond 9.1
SMSL SA-36A
That's going to sound pretty great for the money. Since your on a faitly low budget, I'd highly recommend looking into second hand gear. £140 would go quite a long way. Check Gumtree and Facebook Marketplace, plenty of great finds on there for next to nothing.
You'd want at least 20 watts at 4 ohms with < 1% THD. A lot of amps are rated at 10% THD which is useless. If on a budget, look at the SMSL-36A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017W13OR0/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_MX0JDbY293T7X
Power output: 2 x 20 watts @ 4 ohms, 2 x 12 watts @ 8 ohms • Frequency response: 20-22,000 Hz • THD+N: <0.1% • SNR: 102 dB
Some people think the THX logo is a tweeter. (The THX is not a tweeter)
Here's a review http://noaudiophile.com/Logitech_z623/
I don't like the z623 personally, the satellites sound thin and the subwoofer plays too much midrange.
If you think soundbars sound awesome then get a z623. $70 is cheap for audio with bass.
But if you're after better audio then we run into problems.
Some say the Edifier bookshelf speakers are good, The Edifier R1280T No bluetooth is currently on sale. I can't vouch for it for long term listening but I did hear one in person briefly in a store, sounded decent but unsure which model it was.
You can try a Voll 50 Passive speaker and hook it up with a SMSL Audio SA-36A or SMSL AD18 amp. You will need your own speaker wire if you go that route and it obviously all these audio components aren't cheap.
If you want to add a subwoofer in the future then the SMSL AD18 is the way to go, as it has sub-out.
TL;DR
Keep it simple with the Logitech and enjoy the bass or get serious and spend some more money.
It is a pair of these:
Dayton Audio RS100-4
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rs100-4-4-reference-full-range-driver-4-ohm--295-378
Driven by this:
SMSL SA-36A Pro 20WPC TPA3118D2 Digital Amplifier AMP
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-SA-36A-TPA3118D2-Amplifier-Black/dp/B017W13OR0/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1541083637&sr=1-3&keywords=smsl+sa-36a&dpID=41ARrZWiHtL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
Yes. You can even have it tomorrow if you do one day shipping.
Qualcomm Krait 300, quad-core to 1.7 Ghz
That pretty much destroys most of the quadcore Android TV devices out there. Usually its a quad core mediatek.
Hmm, I guess you're right. I didn't look at the specs before posting. The device has only 8 gb of memory.
http://www.amazon.com/Amazon-CL1130-Fire-TV/dp/B00CX5P8FC
Go with a firetv or something else. The chromecast is kinda eh.
http://www.amazon.com/Fire-TV-streaming-media-player/dp/B00CX5P8FC
The Amazon FireTV is essentially a mini computer, just like the OUYA, that you can run XBMC on. http://www.amazon.com/Fire-TV-streaming-media-player/dp/B00CX5P8FC
In my opinion (and the popular opinion I think) is that the FireTV is a much better value for an XBMC box than the OUYA. It only costs around $30 more, but it is so much more powerful it'll be able to handle just about anything you throw at it mediawise. The heaviest of skins can be a tad laggy at times (I had to switch off Aeon MQ5, but some people say they run it fine) but it handles Aeon Nox for me flawlessly.
Synology is a brand that makes NAS systems. They are a bit more expensive than competitor brands (and much more expensive than building one yourself), but they have unrivaled reliability and easy of use.
I use an Android app to run an FTP server on the FireTV so that right now, using a non-NAS setup, I can leave my USB hard drive plugged into the FireTV and be able to transfer over new media wirelessly (rather than unplugging, transferring, replugging, and remounting the drive). This won't be a concern once I have a NAS system setup since everything will be accessing the storage wirelessly (or through an ethernet connection) at that point.
Nor will it.
Might have more luck in some other forums which are more active like /r/corcutters
However, in my mind it comes down to:
Roku vs Fire TV vs Apple TV vs XBOX360 vs Chromecast vs an Android Box vs Computer connected to television
I'm pretty sure Netgear's NeoTV and Western Digital's WDTV don't have native Showtime Anytime apps. Plus those are dying quickly, their market share is something abysmal. Future support and app development is going to pale in comparison to your options above.
I'm not aware of any smart televisions, except maybe the new ones launching with Roku as a back OS, that have native Showtime Anytime apps.
Getting Showtime Anytime onto say a Ouya or Raspberry Pi running XBMC seems like it would be difficult if not nigh impossible.
So that leaves us with the list above. It's in order of preference. But working backwards:
That's my vote.
It's basically the same thing as a Roku or the Amazon Fire TV.
The big difference is that it's an Apple product & ties in a little better with Apple devices & services.
Whose talking about a shitty firestick? I’m talking about the FireTV, which is a stand-alone box and yes it’s way better than the Pi 3, which I also have.
https://www.amazon.com/Amazon-Fire-TV-Previous-Generation/dp/B00CX5P8FC
im using the [g-box mx2] (http://www.amazon.com/Matricom-G-Box-MX2-Android-Special/dp/B00CH643A8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1415112217&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=gbox+mx2)
but i hear the [Amazon Fire TV] (http://www.amazon.com/Fire-TV-streaming-media-player/dp/B00CX5P8FC/ref=sr_tr_sr_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1415112276&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=fire+tv) is really good. Mine is only a dual core processor where the fireTV has quad core.
Edit: Added amazon links
It supports wi-fi.
http://www.amazon.com/Fire-TV-streaming-media-player/dp/B00CX5P8FC#compare
A Nexus Player for $99 would be an expensive option, but it comes with a physical remote while still being able to accept casts like the Chromecast does. So they can use the remote, and anyone with a smartphone can use that to cast.
And FYI, the Fire TV stick doesn't have voice-search. You have to buy the voice remote separately for $30 or download the free mobile app. $40 stick + $30 remote = $70 .... and the Fire TV box is $99, which comes with the voice remote already... and then there's the AppleTV which just got a price drop to $69. That comes with a physical remote as well...
Here's a couple product comparisons:
You could use a Fire TV. Cheap and has a nice remote based interface. Runs android so you can sideload apps like NFL Game Pass that aren't on the amazon store.
I don't believe the Amazon video app supports the Chromecast, so out of those two devices the Apple TV would be your best bet.
Those aren't your only options though. The Roku, Amazon Fire TV or Fire TV Stick, and Nexus Player are all worth considering. The Roku even has native apps for all those services so you wouldn't have to stream anything from your phone.
There's a quite good Kodi plugin, if you have something that runs Kodi. The $40 Amazon Fire TV Stick runs it. I've got the older generation Fire TV and Stick and both run it just fine. I'd imagine the new one runs it even better.
Looking long-term, it might be worth the investment. Amazon currently has a sale on both the Fire Stick and Fire TV (although fair warning, I've heard people complain about the latency on the Fire Stick).
There's a list on the promo page, http://www.amazon.com/Amazon-W87CUN-Fire-TV-Stick/dp/B00GDQ0RMG but it doesn't look like crunchyroll is on there. It might come eventually but seeing as it's a brand new device they might want to wait and see what the customer base is.
Eu am Raspberry Pi B+ si chromecast. Folosesc destul de mult raspberry-ul. Este cam incet dar vad filme din retea (NAS) cu xbmc - am si xbmctorrent (un plugin) si pot sa vad fara sa downloadez ceva in prealabil. Sunt multumit.
Despre chromecast nu prea pot sa comentez pentru ca nu l-am folosit la multe. Am facut cast de pe youtube, mirror la android sau mirror la chrome tab (sa ma uit cu altcineva pe reddit :) ). Intr-o zi am stat si am incercat sa pun filme de pe nas (din retea) dar trebuiau sa fie encodate mp4 (sau asemanator).
Later edit: Vezi ca acum a facut si amazon un dongle care mi se pare interesant.
Get Amazon Prime. Then you'll have access to almost the entire library of Mr. Roger's Neighborhood. Combine with Amazon Fire Stick and you're all set.
Well this is interesting. The FireTV stick comparison page now says "coming next year" for HBO Go. I'm pretty sure it used to say December or end of the year, it looks like it's been quietly delayed. I'm not happy about this at all.
I could be wrong but I don't believe chromecast won't work without Google Play services, which Amazon doesn't allow on their kindles. Amazon wants you to buy their Amazon Fire TV Stick and not use Chromecast. Welcome to the world of Amazon going head to head with Google.
Aside from rooting and installing the Play Store, you might be out of luck with Chromecast. I have a KFHD7 from 2012 and I had to root install a custom rom on it because I got so frustrated with it's terrible interface and lack of support for the Play Store and other Google Apps. I don't recommend rooting unless you're really motivated, because it's very easy to break/brick kindle fires, especially those from 2012 onward.
Oh no, Santa - sounds like you've had a rough night.
I wonder if the small little package might be an Amazon Fire TV Stick for my boyfriend? It was at the top of his list but was nowhere to be found beneath the Christmas tree this morning.
Feel better, Santa!
Yes there is a twitch app for the fire stick. If you scroll down to what's on fire stick part of the page, you will see twitch :)
http://www.amazon.com/Amazon-W87CUN-Fire-TV-Stick/dp/B00GDQ0RMG
Have you considered something like Chromecast, or the newly announced [Amazon Firestick}(http://amzn.to/103Eoa5). Might be a better solution for them.
Here you go.
I'm using this Mediasonic HW-150PVR with very good results.
http://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-HW-150PVR-HomeWorx-Converter-Recording/dp/B00I2ZBD1U
Yes, under $40. I have one.
Any of the DVR Tuners are going to have an on screen guide, it's part of the OTA broadcast.
Check out the standalone DVR's like the Mediasonic, this , or this, or this
That's what I thought, but the way the rooms are wired, a cable line goes into a VCR, which demodulates the signal to S-Video to go into a TV, or more frequently, a projector. This would work, we'd just need something like this in each room, along with an HDMI line run for the TV/Projector:
http://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-HW-150PVR-HomeWorx-Converter-Recording/dp/B00I2ZBD1U/ref=sr_1_1?s=audio-video-accessories&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1409979950&amp;sr=1-1
like /u/finally_joined mentioned this is a circa 2008 digital conversion box intended for folks whose TVs only had analog tuners If you're looking for a cheap DVR you'll probably want something like Mediasonic HW-150PVR HomeWorx or a higher quality device like the Channel Master DVR+ or TiVo Roamio OTA. I'm a big fan of my TiVo as it covers most streaming services too.
Those TV fool stats make me jealous, you wont need to spend much on an antenna the one you have should work. Most places like walmart, kmart, etc carrier those so try one out from there just in case you need to get something better.
As for the converter $60 is over priced for what that does for $35 you can get one that doubles as a converter and DVR. Just add your own Flash drive, Hard drive etc.
http://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-HW-150PVR-HomeWorx-Converter-Recording/dp/B00I2ZBD1U/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1397377777&amp;sr=8-13&amp;keywords=dvr
A 65" P series is exactly $2000 and is probably one of the best, if not the best, 4k HDR 'TV' out now that's not OLED. Just know that you will have to get an external tuner since the display doesn't have one installed. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-HW-150PVR-HomeWorx-Converter-Recording/dp/B00I2ZBD1U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464290454&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=hdmi+tuner
I bought a Homeworx 150PVR and plugged that into my Xbox One. I need to set up the IR right still so the XboxOne can change the channels, but other than that it's been working great. I have an off-air antenna in my attic and already had coax installed from there to where my TV / XboxOne is.
I have not tried the PVR options, just watch live TV from time to time.
He should ask the company about the boxes if not this one looks nice enough it even can be used as usb dvr
http://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-HW-150PVR-HomeWorx-Converter-Recording/dp/B00I2ZBD1U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408659674&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=digital+converter+box+for+tv
http://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-HW-150PVR-HomeWorx-Converter-Recording/dp/B00I2ZBD1U
> That's a lot of work for me to basically record PBS ... I don't watch any of those shows.
Less work than you think. I had my whole setup up and running in about 35 minutes or so.
>https://i.imgur.com/YwdncO3.png
There's some gaps in there. Notice there's nothing after May of 2017. Zilch for 2018.
>I literally would not know what to do with local channels, I already have a pretty large HDTV antenna on my roof and I get maybe 10 channels.
Your antenna may just need to be repointed. TVFool and a compass can do a lot. It's also possible you have a crappy TV tuner. The tuners put into TV sets and USB dongles/PCIe cards in the early 2000s were pretty crappy. Newer ones a significantly better. When I swapped out my WinTV HVR-950Q for a HDHR Connect I saw a dramatic increase in reception.
>I mean sure I could record Bobs Burgers or something on Fox, The Late Show with Stephen Colbert, but those are the only shows on regular over the air channels that I watch and I barely even watch them.
That's kind of the magic of a DVR. Set your recording rules to keep storage manageable and they'll just be there whenever you get the urge to watch it.
I mean, for example, my mom and I love Cook's Country and America's Test Kitchen. Every Sunday we'd sit down on the couch and watch it. When I moved out I've kind of fallen out of that habit, but from time to time I still do like to sit down and watch them. So whenever I'm all like "what should I watch," I can say, "oh, I'll watch ATK" and a recording will be sitting there, waiting for me.
I don't have to go out and find a torrent (since it's not available streaming), wait for it download, and then get it into Plex or whatever. I just go press play. I've got the recording rules set up to keep only the three most recent showings, and set it to a relatively low priority.
>Spending $200 so I can record 3 shows I don't care about is really offputting, but thanks for the hardware recommendations.
Actually the HVR-150PVR goes for $30 on Amazon, add a cheap hard drive and you've got everything you need for less than $100. That's less than a month's worth of coffee shop visits.
>I doubt any of that can be DVR'd without also paying for cable and many add-on packs to get HBO/Starz etc.
Well of course not, but while I have a DVR I still have Netflix and Amazon Prime. It's a supplement, not a replacement. Helps save on the data caps, gets some oddball programming that isn't commonly available, and enables me to follow special programming that may not be available streaming. Like CBS.
Leslie Moonves has an enormous stick up his ass about streaming. But putting up an antenna and DVR'ing 60 Minutes is pretty easy. No muss, no fuss. No need to set up VPNs and play with Sonarr and SickBeard, juggling around Plex libraries, and stuff like that, just to watch a show that is available to me, for free, legally, all I have to do is pluck it out of the air.
oh cool, i didn't think that was possible for some reason.
if there's no viable streaming option, i might get myself an antenna, and then maybe this cheap tuner with recording capability. i'd have to buy an external hard drive for it, but it beats the $300 tivo options and should work for me since i only really want to record this one show.
Here is the is a similar device: last I heard the homeworx was marginally better. I have the iview
http://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-HW-150PVR-HomeWorx-Converter-Recording/dp/B00I2ZBD1U#immersive-view_1414933147839
Yep, here’s a $40 one.
I have this Homeworx TV tuner
From the reviews, you can use that box to watch tv but the xbox does not detect it as a device and thus cannot be powered on/off or channels changed through the xbox.
Apparently this one is recognized though....
EDIT: review is quite old so it may have since been added!
Watching OTA channels is as simple as hooking up an antenna to your TV. If you want to record OTA, you can build a MythTV box or buy something like this
Now if you want to be able to stream content to different TV's in your house, something like Simple.TV might be what you're looking for. The Simple.TV hardware is made my Silicon Dust (aka HDHomerun).
Check out the Mediasonic HW-150PVR.
http://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-HW-150PVR-HomeWorx-Converter-Recording/dp/B00I2ZBD1U
I'm using it with an OTA antenna, but it may work for your setup too. Also, it plays nice with the Xbox and easily lets you surf channels with the Xbox OneGuide.
You'll need a Kinect, or other IR blaster to have it change channels through the Xbox.
Is it possible that the Visio TV is just bad at fixing up a crummy signal? So would a better antenna perhaps help?
If you were to post a link to your TVFool.com report you might get some suggestions for a antenna.
Could you just get a new tuner rather than a whole new TV? Examples:
http://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-HW-150PVR-HomeWorx-Converter-Recording/dp/B00I2ZBD1U/
http://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-HW180STB-HomeWorx-Converter-Function/dp/B00G5RXM16/
Unlikely, unless your projector has a TV tuner (able to receive radio signals in the TV bands, then perform ATSC decoding) in it, which most do not. If your projector had a tuner, it would be pretty obvious as there would be channel up and down buttons on it.
It's much more common for a projector to have an HDMI input, in which case you could make it work with a tuner box like this one or similar. You'd plug the antenna into the tuner, then run an HDMI cable from the tuner to the projector.
To some degree, you are throwing good money after bad, and until you buy a receiver + speakers, that will not change. I also would suggest NOT buying the product in the second link, and upgrading to an HD Home run for just a bit more money.
All is not lost, and you can fix this for under 100 bucks:
http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=6416
This is a $40.00 HDMI switch. You plug all of your devices (Fire, XB1, Antenna) into it. The issue will be your Antenna, which is not HDMI, and currently connected to your TV. In order to convert that to HDMI, you will use this:
http://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-HW-150PVR-HomeWorx-Converter-Recording/dp/B00I2ZBD1U/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453751432&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=ota+receiver
Now you can plug everything into the HDMI switch, and use the optical out to go to your soundbar. As a bonus, if you connect USB storage, you now have a PVR.
I have three of these, no complaints.
I bought the Homeworx PVR. Works well, HDMI output, connect an External HD to it and its perfect. Really depends on your antenna though, i had to buy a better one to get more channels to record. Box only cost $50.00
http://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-HW-150PVR-HomeWorx-Converter-Recording/dp/B00I2ZBD1U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422039899&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=pvr
I connected my rabbit ear antenna to this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00I2ZBD1U then connected it to my XBone to get OTA. The box does have to be line of site to the kinect to change channels. Other than that it works great.
J'avais l'idée d'en faire un dans le wiki mais avec la fin de session pas trop eu le temps. Pour les intéresser :
Il est certains qu'avoir une antenne extérieur et une télévision au premier étage est mille fois mieux, mais avec ça j'ai 6 chaines à l'intérieur d'une cave alors que je suis en périphérie de Montréal. La qualité de l'image est quand même très bonne et va jusqu'à 1080p (60 hzt) et tu peux enregistrer les émissions. Tu peux même voir les prochaines émissions (pas de guide à ma connaissance par contre). Plus de frais télé à payer.
Pour voir les chaines que l'on peut capter c'est mieux d'utiliser Tv Fool.
Pour sinon les émissions sur internet. J'avais commencer à chercher des informations pour le wiki canal D, canal Z, canal vie, etc ont tous pleins de matériel en ligne. Sinon avec l'arrivé de netflix en France on peut souhaiter avoir plus de contenu francophone, sinon Illico sur demande contient super écran et d'autre choses du genre. Je connais pas assez cependant je crois que tous est accessible sur internet (10$/mois).
Et j'ai fait quelques recherche mais Disney Junior à une version internet on dirait bien.
J'utilise en plus une chromecast c'est environ 30$. Je sais pas ce que je ferais sans elle. Sinon il y a d'autre système semblable comme Roku qui assez populaire
EDIT :
Le setup est vraiment tu branche l'antenne sur le récepteur et le récepteur sur la télévision. Une fois c'est fait tu ouvre le récepteur et ta télévision et tu sélectionne français avec la manette. Et voilà c'est terminé. Tu peux aussi branché un ordinateur à ta télévision avec un fil HDMI et utilisé ta télévision comme moniteur.
Sorry for the late response. I have a projector at UMass currently. Able to answer any more questions you want..
That's about all the problems I've encountered with owning one. If you have any questions or want pictures of my setup, feel free to ask.
This tends to be the popular US OTA option: http://amzn.com/B00I2ZBD1U
You could use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-Homeworx-HW180STB-Converter-Recording/dp/B00IYETYX8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469457474&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=tv+tuner
Mediasonic Homeworx HW180STB 3 / 4 Channel HDTV Digital Converter Box with Recording and Media Player (New Version) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IYETYX8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lNvLxbYSZ1V28
You will need an external USB drive to record though.
You'll need a converter box from the sound of it. One of these or one of these should do the trick. I don't think there's anything smaller you can use, to be honest.
No, they aren't. $33 on Amazon.com with PVR functionality.
thanks for pointing that out. personally i've been focused on getting a drive for dvr storage on another device, http://www.amazon.com//dp/B00IYETYX8 and know that most flash stick won't write fast enough to work. i can always get a 2tb usb3 seagate slim for $75 (which i confirmed writes fast) but that's overkill when i only need about 80gb.
These are tvs with over the air HD tuners or you have a seperate tuner box? (ATSC/QUAM)
As /u/pavlpants mentioned, you do also have to scan for channels, if you haven't done that yet.
My RCA tv has a horrid built in tuner that blacks out the screen every time the wind blows, so I picked up an external tuner from Amazon for < $35. There are cheaper units, but this one has the ability to pause/record programs if you hook up an external USB drive. This particular unit pulls in channels my TV doesn't pick up, holds on to them better and seems like it has a more vivid picture + extensive guide.
That said, this particular box is full of quirks and software bugs/glitches that drive me mad most days, but there aren't many alternatives out there or any good side by side reviews.
For $30 you could buy one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-Homeworx-HW180STB-Converter-Recording/dp/B00IYETYX8/
This guy here will take the coax antenna input and output HDMI to the TV. Bonus is that if you plug a USB HD into, it will work as a primitive DVR.
This brand/model is highly rated around here.
That is weird. It sounds like you are simply getting unlocked whatever and your TV is decoding everything. SO... what you need is an external tuner like this but this particular one is designed for "over the air" HD transmissions. It is cheap enough for you to grab and try out. If it works you will get HDMI out.
I'm assuming it's the vizio model with no tuner. Buy a digital tuner from Amazon and plug it in through HDMI. You will still need an antenna to receive OTA broadcasts.
https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-Homeworx-HW180STB-Converter-Recording/dp/B00IYETYX8
$29.99 on Amazon.
Ah okay. The Vizio doesn't have a tuner, and that's a mandatory requirement to receive and decode OTA/Free TV signals. You'll need both an antenna AND a tuner. I've linked to some above to give you a rough idea of how much it'll cost you. There's no all-in-one devices that I'm aware of.
I can't speak to the quality of the tuner, but that is the same antenna I have connected to my P607, and it works really well for me.
EDIT: I want my banana sticker for coming up with a solution!
I just bought this for my projector, and it's working great with an antenna.
Mediasonic Homeworx HW180STB 3 / 4 Channel HDTV Digital Converter Box with Recording and Media Player (New Version) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IYETYX8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_GrTQwbCBTD7B0
Amazon says buy this. I don't think the tuner itself matters much so long as it has a hookup that's capable of delivering the needed resolution. Just make sure to get an antenna if you don't have one.
Mediasonic Homeworx HW180STB 3 / 4 Channel HDTV Digital Converter Box with Recording and Media Player (New Version) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IYETYX8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_REFRzb0NCM1BQ
PS: there's a smaller one that just sits in the HDMI port but it's $20 more.
https://smile.amazon.com/Mediasonic-Homeworx-HW180STB-Converter-Recording/dp/B00IYETYX8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506361541&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=atsc+tuner
This is the one I have and it works well. It even has an elementary PVR capability, if you hook up a large enough flash drive or an external hard disk to it via its USB port.
I would recommend using this OTA DVR between your Cable box and tv (or xbox one) and a USB stick or USB hard drive, Any type of USB storage is needed for the DVR function. (it can hold up to 2TB max per drive)
Once your cable is gone, you can attach an antenna to it and continue to use the DVR with your xbox one for Over the Air channels with the xbox one guide.
Or you can get something like This TV Tuner stick for your PC and connect your Cable box to it and record shows on to your PC.
In addition if you need a DVR for some broadcasted content you can use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IYETYX8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
There are better and much more expensive options, but this is what I will be using for the Alabama v Ole Miss game since I have my engagement party that night...
I got the same TV and added this device for OTA. Very happy with it.
Mediasonic Homeworx HW180STB
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IYETYX8?ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01&amp;redirect=true&amp;psc=1&amp;pldnSite=1
Check this out
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IYETYX8/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Bought it, used it, works great! Exactly what you are looking for an only $30!!!!
almost everyone here is gonna tell you to go for a receiver + passive speakers. Unless you have a hearth or a very open floor plan it's generally pretty easy to run the cables along the edges of the room and tack them to the wall or carpet. It's not invisible but it looks okay.
You can easily do it under $800. first of all cop one of these av receivers. The speakers are tough to recommend, I personally use these, they look and sound gorgeous, and they have enough bass to do fine without a sub, but cost $600 so you would be stuck with 2.0 if you were to buy them with that budget.
As a rule of thumb, you should dump your money into the end points of the audio chain - in other words, have quality speakers and quality source material. The stuff in the middle of the chain - amplifier, CD player, cables, etc. - doesn't have as much of an effect on the audio quality, but you certainly don't want to cheap out.
Source material isn't as much of a concern as it was in years past, since so much of our music is delivered digitally - provided you stay away from low-bitrate MP3s and such. We don't have to deal with scratched records and worn-out cassette tapes anymore. I kind of feel like people sometimes mis-apply this guideline and sink crazy money into DACs, when they would of been better served with a speaker upgrade. You speakers, provided you're starting with high-fidelity music to begin with, have the most profound effect on audio quality.
I'd recommend a set of Pioneer BSR-22s for speakers and a decent Sony receiver.
I have the Pioneer speakers and love them. I bought them as a temporary solution while I was renting for a while, but enjoyed them so much that I never replaced them. They're wonderful, accurate yet kind of warm-sounding speakers. If you have the opportunity, listen to a variety of speaker and choose the ones that sound best to you. Sadly, this can be a bit of a chore since online shopping has shut down many hi fi shops. People really like those Micca and Dayton speakers, too, but I only have experience with these Pioneers.
I have the 7.1 version of that Sony in my home theater. Personally, I prefer Yamaha receivers that have a Burr-Brown DAC in them, but I needed a 4K switching receiver on a budget and ended up with the Sony. The one I linked to is a 5.1 receiver, so if you ever wanted to upgrade to surround sound, the possibility is there. Also it will do 4K video switching. A good stereo setup is fine for movies, however. If you know that stereo is all you'll ever need, you could find a good stereo receiver for a few bucks less.
Grab whatever budget Blu-ray player that suits your aesthetic.
Most importantly, have fun and don't stress out about your choices. Part of the fun of this hobby is enjoying the music while knob-dicking around with the equipment. You'll enjoy whatever you end up with.
Ah, I remember those days. My advice is to try to future proof your receiver so as you come across any extra beer money you can upgrade your speakers as you go. To keep it around $300, I would go with this Sony receiver. I have the model up from this and it's a good entry-level unit that will last you 5 years. Then go with this center channel. Keep in mind that in a 5 speaker system, the center channel will do most of the heavy-lifting so ideally, you don't want to go too cheap.
Get those speakers on some stands and spread them out. This is probably the best cheap receiver deal today.
Edit: Why is there a bowl of decorative spheres in front of your center speaker?!
The Sony STR-DH550 has four HDMI in, and is pretty much as cheap as a new 5.1 receiver comes.
It's about 190 on Amazon now - http://www.amazon.com/Sony-STRDH550-5-2-Channel-Receiver/dp/B00J30GXW2
Here's a cheap Fluance setup thats not completely embarrassing. Of course, you still need a receiver.
*Just noticed that doesn't have a sub, lol
Anyways, this is by no means what I would spend my money on. Personally, I would start with a decent Receiver and 2 quality bookshelf speakers (preferably with good low end to get me by). Something like Elac B6s or Philharmonic AAM's. Then I would save up and add a quality sub(bicf12), and lastly some cheap rears (micca mb42's).
God damnit, I copied it from another post I made and the links didn't follow. Here they are:
Speakers
Subwoofer
Receiver
Connections available that I think are relevant are HDMI, but I also have 6 3.5mm jacks(rear, side, sub, mic, line out, line in)
Can't get much cheaper then these things.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00J30GXW2/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=all
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B003QP3M8I/ref=dp_olp_used_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=used
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No, you can't
the sub out on the AD18 is only a pre-out mono signal, it may be the full audio or just the audio under a certain frequency threshold, either way it can't be turned into a center channel
Edit: you could try this receiver, it's on sale now at $150
They are the speakers labeled SR and SL in this photo. I dont know who gave you those, but call them stupid for it! Since you cant use them on their own without an amplifier, and even worse since they only gave you surround channel speakers (which dont really function on their own)!!! (ok dont actually call them stupid. after all its a gift)
If you want to use them, I would suggest getting two fluance fronts. If you want fulfill the 5.1 surround channel, you could also pick up matching fluance center and a cheap sub like this.
Oh and you'll need speaker wire. And a receiver like this. Overall, if you expect to use these speakers in their intended position, expect to spend minimum of $250 (New). If you wanna save some bucks, go on craiglist or ebay and look for some used receivers. they are dime a dozen and a great bang for the buck.
I got this yesterday https://www.amazon.com/Sony-STRDH550-5-2-Channel-Receiver/dp/B00J30GXW2
Open box at Best Buy for $140 total. I really like it so far.
I gotcha, well I hate to be the bearer of bad news you could have gotten then new 4K stick straight from Amazon for about the same price. New refurb.
The stick 4k, specs, supports Dolby Vision and a slightly faster CPU. 4K pendant specs
Hope this helps.
That's not the original price, so I think you're looking at the wrong thing.
Fire TV Stick 4K with Alexa Voice Remote, streaming media player https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B079QHML21/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_co8kDb7WN18Q3
that model and this was also recommended. any differences between the two?
would the recent fireTV stick work?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079QHML21/ref_=fs_ods_fs_smp_ms
it says $40 which is a good price for me.
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And would it work on a mac?
The Single E5-2620 V1 will handle about 3x 1080p transcodes. However, if your clients are decent enough and your media is compatible, you'll likely not need any transcoding. Remember, transcoding is converting the file on the fly because the client is not compatible with the native codec.
Direct Streaming and Direct Playing performance will be impacted more by your network (home streaming) and internet connection (external streaming). I'm not saying CPU/Hardware wont effect your ability to Direct-Play/Direct-Stream, but it's likely less of an issue, until you really start increasing your simultaneous streaming.
Xbox One should direct play H264 MKV.. I'd also recommend checking out the new Amazon Fire TV Stick 4K if you're looking for another cheap highly compatible client. A few of my friends that I share my server with have them, and they direct-play just about everything I have..
What's nice about this build is, you can easily upgrade if you need more CPU power. You can start with a single CPU and either add a 2nd one or upgrade both. The rule of thumb is 2000 Passmarks for 1x 1080p transcode. Check out the CPU Comparison Chart for more info. They also list a ballpark price for the CPUs as well.
Released in Oct 2018. It uses a 12nm Mediatek MT8695 with more codec support vs the 28nm Amlogic S905Z on the 4K pendant.
Thanks! The cube is $79. Not sure if that’s a good price. But here’s the link:
https://www.amazon.com/Introducing-Fire-TV-Stick-4K-with-All-New-Alexa-Voice-Remote/dp/B079QHML21
https://www.amazon.com/Introducing-Fire-TV-Stick-4K-with-All-New-Alexa-Voice-Remote/dp/B079QHML21/ref=sr_tr_sr_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539017212&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=fire+stick
New firestick 4k.
Começou os descontos dos devices Amazon, o que me interessa é esse de US$50 por US$35:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079QHML21/
Lista completa:
https://www.amazon.com/b/ref=ods_gw_d_bfdw_deals_xpl2
I understand. I bet lots of folks will pop in here and give good recommendations. The TCL 55R617 55-Inch 4K Ultra HD seems to get lots of love as one of the best values around also.
Thanks for the heads up. After much research, I am pretty set on the TCL 55R617 TV here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079N9HDNQ?tag=rtings-tv-bs10b-20&ie=UTF8
Is the 200$ price difference worth it for the 6 series over the 5 series? What is the difference between the R615 and R617? I'm looking to be "Wowed" by the improvement in HDR content over my current Sony TV which will be migrating to the bedroom.
From what I've been reading from others, TCL quality control is much improved during the second half of the year and I already have Amazon prime so unless anyone knows of a cheaper price elsewhere (Black Friday or Cyber Monday) I think I'm going to pull the trigger on the TV linked above.
Also, I plan on wall mounting this TV and would appreciate recommendations on an inexpensive mount that will work with this TV.
Thanks
This is the best TV for the money. Hands down.
Are you referring to the 2018 TCL 55R617?
TCL 55R617 55-Inch 4K Ultra HD Roku Smart LED TV (2018 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079N9HDNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lPI6Ab5NPZVMC
I'd jump on it but I can't change my plan as I am grandfathered into the $16 a month plan. Amazon is putting the 4K Firestick on sale for cyber Monday at $24.99.
https://www.amazon.com/Fire-TV-Stick-4K-with-Alexa-Voice-Remote/dp/B079QHML21/
I just bought this fire stick for $25 if you have Amazon prime. There is a coupon code 4KFIRETV. I love it. It has Alexa commands too. Like "put on Breaking Bad"
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;source=web&amp;rct=j&amp;url=https://www.amazon.com/Fire-TV-Stick-4K-with-Alexa-Voice-Remote/dp/B079QHML21&amp;ved=2ahUKEwjDqub4rI3lAhWpd98KHSZSB4UQFjAUegQIBxAC&amp;usg=AOvVaw3fmWxhJHYY17nOGfIZJX-2
Using the System Status Monitor menu on the new Fire TV Stick 4K connected to my Sony W630B I can confirm that Netflix is using HEVC for 1080p streams. Rates I saw for various shows seemed to fluctuate from 3-7Mbps for the 1080p stream. Also noticed that most streams were using BT.709 10-bit SDR colour format.
For comparison Prime Video seems to be using 4-10Mbps HEVC for 1080p video streams with BT.709 8-bit SDR colour.
Obviously use of the HEVC format is device dependent.
TCL 55R617 55-Inch 4K Ultra HD Roku Smart LED TV (2018 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079N9HDNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RsGACbDNZNZ5R this one on amazon for 579$
Samsung UN55NU8000FXZA Flat 55" 4K UHD 8 Series Smart LED TV (2018) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079NBMTWY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_huGACbYWFPDH4 the Samsung 55 inch 8000 series for 897$
I’m less familiar with the Vizio models but they are also similar price ranges. Overall I’d say TCL is cheapest and provides great price value and has Roku, Samsung is pricier and Vizio again idk but all three are wayyyy more credible and not necessarily more expensive
Have the same issue with Amazon Fire TV Stick 4K. Was watching Goliath and the sound was terrible. Switched to my tablet and streamed with Chromecast and it was ok. I will have to try on Roku in the other room and see if it is the same. Will get a Roku Ultra for the livingroom too.
It's a device that plugs into a TV that allows you to use streaming services like Netflix and Prime Video and play some lightweight games.
Here is a link to the product page on Amazon with more information.
Nope, a quick Google search of Wireless N vs Wireless AC offered this quote.
"802.11ac vs 802.11n Range
So AC WiFi is much faster, but its peak speeds are not really the selling point. It’s speeds at long range are."
Edit: Spend $30 ($40 if they have a 4K TV).
Fire TV Stick https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0791TX5P5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_huqTCbWG32562
4K Fire TV Stick https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079QHML21/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_awqTCbRSXEWNN
I was going to get TCL's new series 6 55" but after reading and seeing pics of people's new TVs, I decided to pass. Too many of them reported severe vertical banding on the screen.
I thought it was relegated to just the 55" model. I considered the 65" model, but realized that was just too large for my tastes. This TV seems to be the top of the line for ROKU based TVs. In the end I just could not take the chance. I am disabled and shipping such equipment back and forth is not too practical for me.
I went with a Sony. May not be the most current. Definently not the most expensive. But it fit my size, and the reviews were far better. I did have to get used to the new interface as it run Android TV. I've come to appreciate it.
I still have my trusty Roku 3 in the bedroom chugging away without any issues.
39 bones :
Fire TV Stick 4K with Alexa Voice Remote, streaming media player https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079QHML21/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wMUVDbB5C28N9
I like these solutions that cost near as much as the device. I'd have a really hard time buying that over this especially if it's software issues and considering they are the same price.
Remote only - needs FireTV Stick 2nd gen or newer to set up
https://smile.amazon.com/All-New-Alexa-Voice-Remote-with-power-and-volume-controls/dp/B07B6L2QCF/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1543603904&sr=8-16&keywords=fire+tv+stick
Remote & stick for setting up purposes
https://smile.amazon.com/Introducing-Fire-TV-Stick-4K-with-All-New-Alexa-Voice-Remote/dp/B079QHML21/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1543603904&sr=8-1&keywords=fire+tv+stick
Nearly everything you said is wrong. TCL offers the R617 for $650.
It exceeds 1000 nits.
There are great options for affordable 4K with HDR that provides more than just a sticker on the box.
If you just want one player, check out PlaySignage . You can link and manage one device for free without limitations and only start paying with the second one.
For hardware, I recommend you just get an Amazon Fire TV stick .
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Here are the things you'd need to do to get started:
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Play Digital Signage system only relies on the network when publishing the content to your device. Once your device downloads the content, it can go offline and still work.
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Hope this helps.
I love my Apple TV, but it IS very expensive, especially if you are only using it occasionally for things like Disney+ and Amazon Prime Video. (I have cut the cord, so the Apple TV is my main set top box I pretty much use for all my media watching/streaming)
I am not familiar with Roku, but I do have a Firestick on one of my TV’s and it is great for what it is.The 4K version is on sale for $24.99 right now (regular $50) and if you don’t need 4K, the normal version is on sale for $20 (regular $40). Just note, there is a coupon code I believe you have to manually put in at checkout (it says it on the product page).
I honestly think that is your best bet, especially if you already use Amazon stuff/services.
"You can pair Echo Studio to Fire TV Cube 1st Gen or 2nd Gen, Fire TV Stick 4K, or Fire TV (3rd Gen) for immersive entertainment, but it does not work with older generations of Fire TV Stick or Fire TV."
As of now you it looks like you can only pair the studio with the Fire Devices, to act like a sound bar
The 55R617 is in stock right now.
TCL 55R617 55-Inch 4K Ultra HD Roku Smart LED TV (2018 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079N9HDNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_H77QDb9B10QDT
You can also get the 65 inch model for under 1k.
Wait for TVs to go on sale, don’t sell yourself short. Easy to find a good deal. But keep in mind you get what you pay for. HDR is big when looking for a tv. Games that don’t support 4k but have HDR is a nice boost to the color depth.
If you are patient grey Thursday/Black Friday/cyber Monday always have good deals.
This t.v. Is 100 bucks off amazon right now and seems to fit your budget. It is their 4 series.
I personally have never owned a tv from this company, I usually stay with Sony, Samsung, and LG and have yet to be disappointed.
4 series.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N29XPO3/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1527285148&amp;sr=8-6&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=4k+uhd+tv&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51xTjwmi4lL&amp;ref=plSrch
6 series
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079N9HDNQ
I think we're SOL in Canada. Amazon has it listed as unavailable, but I'm not sure if they'll ever get it.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B079N9HDNQ/?coliid=I3LIH08PN4RB6N&amp;colid=18D1QNMXR02RF&amp;psc=0&amp;ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
https://www.amazon.com/TCL-55R617-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B079N9HDNQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525567100&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=tcl+6+series&amp;dpID=51yuZMcAxRL&amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
won't beat this right now as far as budget + HDR + low input lag + 4k
I looked at that one and almost pulled the trigger. I ended up going to for the 6 series on the prime deal right now on amazon due to people saying picture quality , Brightness, and blacks being much better for just a couple hundred dollars difference. Still cost less then that Samsung I was about to purchase before I heard such good things about TCL.
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079N9HDNQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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I got the 55" version due to my distance from sitting area to TV.
What kind of budget are you working with?
Rtings reviewed that TV, and while the 4k is fine, the HDR isn't impressive at all.
> HDR is average and the lack of a wide color gamut, low HDR peak brightness, and lack of local dimming doesn't make HDR content stand out.
Source
I recommend reading the whole review.
I would recommend this TCL R617 as it has great HDR and will give you the best value for your money.
Rtings review here
Rtings.com best sets under $500
If you can stretch to
$650$629, the 55" TCL R617 is your best budget option.Though the Vizio P series is great and E series passable the D class is generally crap. I think the only one I could really recommend at that level is the TLC 6 series from 2018. The 55" goes for $670 on amazon, you may be able to find better prices elsewhere.
ok I'm between the tcl and the vizio
There’s a specific model for 4K output.
You must be thinking of the old ones. The current ones are very good actually. They are currently my go-to hardware for Kodi clients. The old ones couldn't even handle my SQL servers content list. The new one? No issues. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079QHML21
But I already see FFBE listed as non compatible :(
Then take it up with Amazon's copywriters.
https://smile.amazon.com/Fire-TV-Stick-4K-with-Alexa-Voice-Remote/dp/B079QHML21/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1QFBZD2QABW7U&keywords=fire+stick+4k&qid=1567641510&s=gateway&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sprefix=fire%2Caps%2C421&sr=8-3
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>Enjoy brilliant picture with access to 4K Ultra HD, Dolby Vision, HDR, and HDR10+. Experience immersive sound with Dolby Atmos on select Prime Video titles.
>
> Supported audio Dolby Audio Dolby Atmos Dolby Atmos
>
> Audio Support
>
>Dolby Atmos, 7.1 surround sound, 2-channel stereo, and HDMI audio pass through up to 5.1. Dolby Atmos is not currently supported on Netflix titles.
Anyway, it looks like they also updated the FireTV Cube, so that is an option now as well after Oct 10, 2019. Says it has a 6-core CPU instead of 4-core like the stick.
No, this is a FireTV 4k, like THIS one.
I ran into the same issue with Apple TV, which isn't supported either. DISH/SlingTV/AirTV, if you're paying attention, I've been waiting two years for Apple TV support! What is taking so long? Sorry, had to get that out of my system.
Unless you really love the "smart" part of your Samsung TV, you could add a supported set-top box, or streaming stick. I've been pleased with our Roku Ultra. The remote for the Ultra, and for the Roku Streaming Stick+ as well, can control the TV's power and volume, which enables a single-remote solution. The remote for Amazon's new Fire TV Stick 4K also controls TV power and volume.
Imo the TCL 6 beats it overall: it's this one - https://www.amazon.com/TCL-55R617-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B079N9HDNQ?ref_=Oct_TopRatedC_172659_1&pf_rd_p=0c754443-c2f5-5688-a172-b6edd84a9cee&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=172659&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=9D9SPDEVRTT5PX4CRECC&pf_rd_r=9D9SPDEVRTT5PX4CRECC&pf_rd_p=0c754443-c2f5-5688-a172-b6edd84a9cee
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It's VA panel, so viewing angles need to be more head on but has much better contrast ratio than IPS (the LG).
Yeah, I didn’t buy a warranty for it either. I bought one for my dynex which was a waste because it was perfect. But the Vizio was a total joke and their customer service was even worse. I remember them priding themselves on being an American company, but they definitely don’t meet the traditional American made standards. Never again will I buy Vizio and I have done my best to talk others out of wasting their money.
I was looking at this other American brand, TCL, but I’m pretty sure it’s the exact same thing as Vizio.
TCL 55R617 55-Inch 4K Ultra HD Roku Smart LED TV (2018 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079N9HDNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Y.x5CbJY7G0QN
Hold onto ya butts
4K TV alone doesn't say much about the price. Price range on Amazon is <$500 to this special price which can only be revealed by clicking on the link.
Here is a link to the TV that the reviews are from:
Samsung UN105S9 Curved 105-Inch 4K Ultra HD 120Hz 3D Smart LED TV
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L403O8U/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_i0eyub02C1Y9T
There are some other nuggets of comedy gold in the reviews as well, and goes on for pages.
My personal favorite is this TV. Even the Q/A section is hilarious.
link to Amazon reviews
Or go all out and get one of these puppies and live in the box it comes in
That's a typo, whereas this is not.
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN105S9-Curved-105-Inch-Ultra/dp/B00L403O8U
was it this one?
There is a refrub on the same page for $229,999.99 ...really!!!
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN105S9-Curved-105-Inch-Ultra/dp/B00L403O8U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1419276702&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=samsung+un105s9+curved+105-inch+4k+ultra+hd+120hz+3d+smart+led+tv#customerReviews
mind boggling. it's actually 400K in Canada
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN105S9-Curved-105-Inch-Ultra/dp/B00L403O8U/ref=sr_1_1?s=tv&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417914660&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=TV#customerReviews
Here's the link if you want to read more about it and also for the reviews.
Samsung UN105S9 Curved 105-Inch 4K Ultra HD 120Hz 3D Smart LED TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L403O8U/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_q.JRub0KX4BDY
This television. Then I'd sell it.
You think that is big? Try this: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN105S9-Curved-105-Inch-Ultra/dp/B00L403O8U
Sorry got to 1-up you here. Samsung UN105S9 Curved 105-Inch 4K Ultra HD 120Hz 3D Smart LED TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L403O8U/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_eg0fvb0KQ44EF
Alright then, I would recommend this http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN105S9-Curved-105-Inch-Ultra/dp/B00L403O8U.
Or you can get the refurbished one for 200k what a steal!
Yeah, reviews on Amazon...
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/cr/B00L403O8U/s=sd/ref=mw_dp_cr
Seriously, who would buy this? (I mean when you could get the real deal of a refurbished one for $229,999.99! - what a deal!)http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00L403O8U/ref=dp_olp_refurbished?ie=UTF8&amp;condition=refurbished
> it falls down to supply and demand how costly something is.
This isn't always true.
> If that drug would remain 5000$ and a competitor would make something just as good but cheaper, the logic goes the more expensive version would not be sold
He bought the rights to produce it so he was the only supplier.
Looks like the 2nd Gen Fire TV Stick does support up to 60fps: tech specs from Amazon.
Chromecast will not work with a Kindle fire, just fyi.
Try these steps with a Fire TV Stick instead
https://www.amazon.com/gp/help/customer/display.html?nodeId=201540250
If you live in the US you should try getting and Amazon fire stick. That way you can watch most shows for free.
Fire TV Stick with Alexa Voice Remote | Streaming Media Player https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZV9RDKK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Mxi2AbS5WFM15
Here's the Amazon link:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZV9RDKK/
It happened!
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00ZV9RDKK
not 10 times but a fire stick is $40 on Amazon so between 3-5 times the price.
Again.
$40 amplified antenna
$40 Amazon FireTV Stick
Or
$90 FireTV
+
Kodi
+
Specto
The antenna will give you free local channels
FireTV can give you streaming channels + apps for streaming from channels if you have someone generous enough to provide their cable/satellite login. So we have live streaming of Fox Sports, ESPN, CNN and some more.
and Kodi for every TV Show/Movie. There's add-ons for live tv that's hit or miss but definitely improving
Right on the Vue page it lists what local channels are available. Same with Sling and it's not many
Edit: I don't get your point of trying to cut cords if you're still subscribing to every streaming service available? At that point wouldn't satellite be cheaper?
If only being used for streaming music, I would recommend an Amazon fire stick, does all the same job from a portable remote and/or your phone.
https://www.amazon.com/All-New-Fire-TV-Stick-With-Alexa-Voice-Remote-Streaming-Media-Player/dp/B00ZV9RDKK
https://www.amazon.com/All-New-Fire-TV-Stick-With-Alexa-Voice-Remote-Streaming-Media-Player/dp/B00ZV9RDKK
I like that they provide such specific specs (although they don't link to that from the 'technical details' on their product page).
That Shield TV looks interesting, and on a quick google it looks like the bootloader is unlockable, so it might be a contender. Thanks.
what video card it's this thing https://www.amazon.com/All-New-Fire-TV-Stick-With-Alexa-Voice-Remote-Streaming-Media-Player/dp/B00ZV9RDKK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480566137&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=tv+stick
Plenty of decent options.
$30 man...
Honestly I was just gonna get the regular $40 one. I figure I don't really need the more expensive features.
You can add the Amazon Fire Stick to that list of devices that will not work without an internet connection.
We lost internet for a few minutes and all it would display is something about it cannot load "Home".
Although, the internet came back on long enough for me to get Plex started. When we lost connectivity to the internet again, it stayed connected to the Plex with no issues. So, I wonder why it needed the internet connection in the first place and if there is a way to fake the connection.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZV9RDKK/ref_=fs_ods_fs_smp_tk#compare
8 Gig is not too shabby. You would think they could do a better buffering.
Thanks, man! Would chromecast be a just as good alternative as a roku 2? Pardon the stupid question.
Edit: Is this it? Like I said, I'm an absolute idiot. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LZFXLZ1/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485136947&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=chrome+cast&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=411RNgayN8L&amp;ref=plSrch
Or this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZV9RDKK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485136947&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=chrome+cast&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41s5Vedy2SL&amp;ref=plSrch
I have a Samsung Galaxy J7, btw. It supports mirror cast through wi-fi direct.
I ended up getting Mattel's View-Master to hold me over till a nicer one comes out. It is a solid made device that just fits the P6 w/o a case. There is no headphone cutout or straps but it is so cheap I wouldn't feel bad about drilling into it. I wrote a small review on it if you want more info.
Edit: Sorry i forgot to mention it does have a QR code and is supported by the cardboard app.
I have this and use the fuck out of it: http://www.amazon.com/View-Master-Virtual-Reality-Starter-Pack/dp/B011EG5HJ2/ref=lp_2596218011_1_2?srs=2596218011&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457732996&amp;sr=8-2
They're back, in VR Headset form.
I hear good things about the view-master viewer.
http://www.amazon.fr/View-Master-Virtual-Reality-Starter-Pack/dp/B011EG5HJ2
is it the same product?
Depends. I didn't get an actual Cardboard, but a View-Master, so it's got a lever that presses a little button in the middle of the screen (so it's only got one function, which in Maps is start flying/stop flying). Other than that, I basically just find videos I like and open the case to change them.
What's the FoV like?
Do you have it?
Is this it - Virtual Reality Starter Pack https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B011EG5HJ2/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_awd_7j6IwbEKPATXP
Just been looking at it, it looks great. But the lack of headstrap is disappointing though!
http://www.amazon.com/View-Master-Virtual-Reality-Starter-Pack/dp/B011EG5HJ2
You can splurge and get a viewmaster...
http://www.amazon.com/View-Master-Virtual-Reality-Starter-Pack/dp/B011EG5HJ2/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449090239&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=viewmaster
Thanks for the explanation. I ordered this one. I'm guessing that the orange piece on the side is for the button.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011EG5HJ2
approx $10 cheaper than buying it from google
Then, there's the Viewmaster 2.0. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B011EG5HJ2
I doubt it comes near the ones I suggested, though. Especially with the smaller lenses and no headstrap.
I dont claim to be an expert in audio, but this sony and this yamaha are popular new receivers. If you want a deal, try craigslist or FB marketplace. They aren't the worst spots to look but it takes patience.
There are also lower end amps if you dont want to spend a crap load of money, something like this would also get the job done. It wouldn't be the most amazing amp ever made but it wouldn't be the worst.
As for the preamp, it depends. Some people have no problem using a table's built in pre, others think they're garbage and even cut them out of the table. Using the built in pre saves some money but the sound quality won't be 100%. Might be more in the range of like 90% but that's not acceptable for some.
It's really what you are ok with. I personally run through my lp120's pre into an active speaker right now, but i'm getting a cheaper amp and passive speakers to free up my active speaker cause it's more portable and has other uses for me. I'm sure someone will tell you how I'm using a terrible setup, but it's what I'm ok with.
i am fairly positive that your tv's rca outs are not powered, they just send a signal so connecting them to a speaker with that adapter wire wouldnt do anything as your speakers wouldnt know what to do with the signal from the rca outs.
spend a little more and you can get a basic little amp that would do what you need. https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Component-Amplifier-Black-SA-36A/dp/B017W13OR0/ref=sr_1_8?
Check out /r/budgetaudiophile but here are two ideas:
I would personally go for the Daytons but it's a tossup.
well i was using some logitech 5.1 (surround sound) speakers which i sold for £40 on ebay to go towards my new speajkers. Richer sounds are a great shop imo and they always give you help and advice so i would look at the speakers there .
I got the Monitor Audio MR1s and there is so much difference between my old ones, crisper highs/treble and over all clearer sound, its very hard to explain how they sound better but trust me.
Types of speakers:
There are mainly 2 types, powered and non-powered.
Powered: They have a built in amp and plug into a wall socket for power and then go straight into your PC, they are easy to set up but some people like to have a separate amp (im also new to this so im not to sure why)
Non-Powered: They are just speakers and on there own cant produce sound as they dont have any power, which is where the amp/amplifier comes in. The amp just gives the speakers power so that they are able to produce sound and connect to a PC ect.
the bigger the speakers the bigger the amp needs to be to give it enough power.
I would go to richer sounds if you have one near you and ask for a demo for some speakers around £100 if you can and im sure you will notice a difference. Also watch some videos about audio and why some speakers are better than others.
Im also very new to this, i got my first pair 2 weeks ago.
These are some good powered speakers that will probs beat cheaper multimedia ones on the cheap:
M-Audio AV32
M-Audio AV42
Mackie CR4
These are some good non powered speakers and amps on the cheap:
MORDAUNT SHORT M20 AND SMSL SA-36A
Wharfedale Diamond 9.1 AND SMSL SA-36A
BTW the amp ive chosen will power them on a desk but might not be great for a big room.
Hope this helps :)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/SMSL-SA-36A-Audio-Stereo-Amplifier-Black/dp/B017W13OR0
Steps down but heard good things.
I currently have the AudioEngine D1 as a DAC to headphone Amp, however I'm looking to add speakers to my setup, the Micca MB42X's are what I had in mind. I know I need to lead the D1 DAC into a speaker Amp, then that into the MB42X's, but I'm not sure which Amp to get. Recommendations I've received have been the SMSL 36A and the SMSL A2, but these suggestions came from a seller referring to their stock. This thread suggests the SA-60, but going from a DAC to amp as well as availability of the SA-60 in Australia I'm super unsure on the choice. So should I go for one of these, or something different?
Hey everyone, I am looking for a new amp for my set up. My current set up involves a set of Pioneer bookshelf speakers and an SMSL SA-36Pro amp.
I recently got a pair of AKG K7XX's from massdrop and now need a new amp to drive the speakers and headphones by allowing me to alternate the output. Can anyone suggest me an amp that'll do that? I would prefer not to spend more than a $100 but will if I have to. Thanks for the help everyone!
My computer doesn't output sound to the aux ports (sounds fine through DP on my monitor). I plan on setting up some speakers w/ amp, should I get a sound card (would need to be pcie, my GPU covers the pci slots) or a dac? Can somebody recommend what to buy, relatively inexpensive?
Speakers that I plan to buy
Amp that I plan to buy
But let me know if there's a better combo for the money.
Thanks for all the help! So, I guess just to give a quick and dirty rundown. I'll be running USB into my E07k which has two outs for headphones. I'd have my headphones in one, and one of those RCA cables you linked out of the other into whichever amp I buy, probably https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Component-Amplifier-Black-SA-36A/dp/B017W13OR0/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466891255&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=SMSL
Which I'll have connected to two Pioneer Andrew Jones bookshelf speakers. Would that be acceptable? The DAC serving as kind of a pre amp for the speakers as well I'm guessing? I know very little about this stuff, sorry for the dumb questions. This way it just seems like it will be easier because my computer's audio source stays constant as the USB source for the FIIO
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Nobsound-Bluetooth-Amplifier-Wireless-Receiver-black/dp/B0725PJQQV/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=2+channel+mini+amp&amp;qid=1562357324&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-4
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bluetooth-Audio-Amplifier-Receiver-Wireless-4-2/dp/B07C2MC9TK/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?keywords=fosi+amp&amp;qid=1562357697&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-9
https://www.amazon.co.uk/LEPY-2024A-Plus-Amplifier-Silver/dp/B00SATAEEA/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=mini+amp&amp;qid=1562357780&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-6
https://www.amazon.co.uk/SMSL-SA-36A-Audio-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B017W13OR0/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?keywords=lepy+mini+amp&amp;qid=1562357854&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-12
https://www.amazon.co.uk/SMSL-SA-36A-Audio-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B017W13OR0
Or, if you need more power, SMSL SA-50 which is about 10 quid more expensive.
Unfortunately Vizio is not available in England :(
Maybe I might just get a soundbar then, thanks mate.
Also suppose I could get double the budget to £200 what would you recommend I mean I could get something like the diamond 9.1's and power them with this https://www.amazon.co.uk/SMSL-SA-36A-Audio-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B017W13OR0
or even some polk t15's : https://www.amazon.co.uk/Polk-T15-Bookshelf-Speaker-Black/dp/B002RJLHB8/ref=sr_1_75?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518990818&amp;sr=1-75&amp;keywords=speakers&amp;refinements=p_36%3A5000-7000
for something in between the two price points.
Is the lack of sub a deal breaker, with the amount I would be spending on the perhaps it is just worth getting a better soundbar?
Yes. Don't buy the Mackies, they are neither good studio monitors nor good value. Instead, some Micca MB42Xs and a small amplifier such as the SMSL SA-36A would be far better in performance and fidelity to the input. Also some good 100% copper speaker wire is a good idea to use for a low resistance connection between the amplifier and speakers. Then all you need to hook up is a source via two RCA, which can be through a 3.5mm to RCA splitter if your preferred audio source's output is a 3.5mm jack.
would this amp solve my problem? also, how do you connect the bare speaker wire into these? They don't have the clamps at the back.
https://www.amazon.ca/SMSL-Component-Amplifier-Black-SA-36A/dp/B017W13OR0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486565237&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=SMSL+SA50
Hello! I finally have all of my components and am ready to connect my audio parts to complete my setup!
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the parts I am using is:
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my computer's motherboard: MSI Gaming Pro Carbon AC ( for audio out?)
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SMSL SA36 Amp: https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-SA-36A-TPA3118D2-Amplifier-Black/dp/B017W13OR0/
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Dayton SUB1000: https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-1000-10-100-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-628
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Micca Speakers: https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00E7H8GG2/
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Here are the outputs on my Motherboard: https://imgur.com/a/cMMDTQG
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my question is, how do I connect the whole system? I'm guessing to connect from my PC to my Sub's input, then from the Sub's output to the amp, and then from the amp to the 2 speakers ( L and R respectively ).
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IF that is correct, how do I connect from the back of my PC to the Sub? via the the Red and White input's? or the High level input? I don't know what that cable is called but I've seen plenty on older TV sets for audio out, similar to S-Video but these would just be Red and White? tyia.
Sorry I messed up the model number, it's this
What are would be some good amp recommendations?
SMSL SA-36A(see that thrown around lot)
SMSL SA-36A Pro 20WPC TPA3118D2 Digital Amplifier AMP 12V Power Supply Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017W13OR0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YcUzCbJ6BSNBN
Kinter K2020A+ Limited Edition Original Tripath TA2020-020 Class-T Hi-Fi Audio Mini Amplifier with 12V 5A Power Supply Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077Z7DBRT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2bUzCbBAGW3Y1
Nobsound Mini TPA3116 Audio HIFI 2.0 Channel Stereo Output Digital Power Amplifier 50WX2 DIY https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WTOAC1M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qdUzCb79JSKGY
2 weeks ago I asked for recommendations for a passive 2.1 setup for my PC for under $300.
I would like a recommendation for a swap on the sub for something that's Amazon prime-able rather than purchased through a 3rd party website for shipping reasons, and would also like a second opinion on the speaker setup if you think there are better speakers for the same budget and available through Amazon prime
I was recommended
[Pioneer SP-BS22-LR Andrew Jones Designed Bookshelf Loudspeakers] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008NCD2LG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PxrzCbRECT5Q2)
Dayton Audio Sub 1000 10" powered sub
(That sub is what I want replaced)
SMSL SA-36A Pro 20WPC TPA3118D2 Digital Amplifier AMP 12V Power Supply
(for that AMP, it doesn't allow headphones to pass through it. I wanted to ask if I needed a seperate DAC amp thing the /r/headphones guys are always talking about or if I could just use an AMP for my speakers that allows the headphones to be plugged in
I'll start off with the a basic setup and expand from there. All speakers require power which is supplied to them by an Amplifier. The Amplifier (Amp) takes signal from your source (Computer, Phone, Turntable, etc) and boosts it. You'll come across two different kinds of speakers, Active and Passive. Active speakers simply have an amplifier built into the speaker like so, while passives like so require an external amplifier.
A DAC (Digital to Analog Converter) takes the 1's and 0's from your computer and convert it into something the amplifier can understand. Basically all devices have one built in, but external ones exist that may be better. For simplicity and/or budget, I'd skip this as your computer already has one built in and this generally improves the sound the least.
So let's build a simple 2.0 system with the speakers I linked above. If you chose to buy the passive version (MB42X), you'll need an external amplifier like this. To set that up you'll go:
If you chose to buy the active variant, setup is a bit simpler though keep in mind you'll lose a volume knob. Often times powered speakers don't have build in volume knobs or they're in a hard to reach location. This is where a preamp comes in, which generally allows for volume control and multiple inputs. The one I linked adds a volume knob and allows you to connect two sources at once then switch between them. So you can go:
Headphones add another layer to this whole thing. I'd probably just leave them plugged into the computer, but volume might get wonky.
Lastly, subwoofers often end up being harder to integrate than you'd think. If you're on a budget, I'd honestly skip it.
I bought the Covo S for my wife and paired it to a SMSL Mini5, mostly so she could also have a headphone out without getting a separate unit.
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If you are getting the Covo because of budget constraints, pair it with a Lepy 2020:
https://www.amazon.com/Lepy-LP-2020A-Stereo-Amplifier-Supply/dp/B00C2P61FO
If you can swing a higher budget, or dont mind buying used, get either the MB42X or the MB42 and a crossover upgrade kit:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E7H8GG2
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009IUIV4A
http://www.miccastore.com/crossover-upgrade-for-micca-mb42-bookshelf-speakers-mkiii-p-114.html
And pair either of those with an SMSL SA36:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017W13OR0
Buying the covo and lepy is like buying a used beater car from the corner lot; it will get the job done but it won't be very good at it. if you can, its better to save up and reach the next tier.
Alright awesome! Thanks for your help with this. Only two more questions:
What do you mean by high level inputs?
And will this work for me? Is 20w enough?
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-SA-36A-TPA3118D2-Amplifier-Black/dp/B017W13OR0/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=smsl+sa36&amp;qid=1555675258&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-2
OK, that's a really easy load so almost anything will power them. This, for example. Or this.
I have these powered by an SMSL SA38 and they get plenty loud as a desk setup.
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-SA-36A-TPA3118D2-Amplifier-Black/dp/B017W13OR0
I got these with an open box discount which totaled out to be $34.00 with free shipping which came in looking brand new with no chips or scratches. Here's a review on them. I'm only a beginner when it comes to this but so far they sound pretty solid to me however they will need a subwoofer.
If you get lucky, I got this which came with a 12V power supply instead of the described 24V power supply, contacted Amazon about the misinformation and they gave me a $25.00 gift card back.
Another question: Are you able to get to a high volume with the SMSL SA36 before it distorts?
EDIT: 2nd Question: Did you buy this or this SMSL SA36.
I have 2 similar to this one:
https://www.amazon.ca/SMSL-Component-Amplifier-Black-SA-36A/dp/B017W13OR0/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=smsl+amp&amp;qid=1574544102&amp;sr=8-3
I wouldn't call that expensive.
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hi /u/ZeosPantera, I'm trying to make a simple setup for my small living room. I was looking at the MB42X's and an amp, with the option of adding a sub later. My problem: my TV only has SPDIF out. I was previously going to buy this amp, but I need something else, right? Does the Griffin Twenty cover it for me? How do I make this work?
Thanks, I live in England and we don't seem to have monoprice here. Well reviewed options include:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B017W13OR0/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_23_3?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=HSM382Q3VFBAH3E6B88E
&
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00LP3AMC2/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_23_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=HSM382Q3VFBAH3E6B88E
Will these do?
The amp isn't portable though - will the 250ohm versions sound alright in situations where I am not at my desktop?
I'm gonna pick up this amp. It has 1 rca and 1 3.5mm input.
Alright, I'm looking for another amp that will be more or less better than the FiiO E10K that I picked up along with my 250 Ohm DT770's. I was looking at some SMSL products on Amazon UK.
&nbsp;
These in particular: (ranked from lowest to highest price)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B017W13OR0/ref=pd_sim_23_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=6ESY4HYBBZ5V4NCKTVGE
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B013HL9NVK/ref=s9_dcacsd_rdc_bw_c_x_1_w?th=1
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01C2OAANI/ref=s9_dcacsd_rdc_bw_c_x_3_w
&nbsp;
Which one would be the best in driving my DT770's? I know my FiiO E10K is enough to drive it but let's pretend that I don't own an amp at the moment of time. Which one would you recommend for driving them?
&nbsp;
Bear in mind,
-I will be using my computer as the main source of music (Spotify/iTunes to be exact.)
-I also have a Sharp XL-DAB151 speakers, I also want to connect that to my amp if possible to get the best sound from it.
-It has two RCA ports on the back (left and right) so does that mean I need an amp with similar ports too? I noticed that SMSL M3 and the SMSL SD793II also has it, would that be the ideal amp?
-Is there any difference between a USB powered amp and a wall powered amp?
&nbsp;
So basically,
-I need to drive my DT770's and hook up my speakers to the amp.
-I would like to be able to switch between the two audio devices, switching to the speaker when I'm not using my headphones.
&nbsp;
Thanks a lot in advance,
Sean.
Are these good enough Link
You were planning on spending about $60 dollars for a DAC and Amp. In that price range you should consider the SMSL Audio SA-36A Amplifier : https://amzn.com/B017W13OR0. The Lepai amp is a good hobby amp but can be unreliable, I have owned a couple of them and have had them fail.
When you mean headphone out, that is just the green port on my I/O port correct? Yes
lol speak of the devil, this was the exact TV I was looking at. Was looking at pairing it with an antenna because fuck cable.
The Low End
The Middle Ground
Also worth noting I'll be using this TV.
> at least 600 bucks for a decent 4k HDR television
600 bucks?
How about this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYGISTO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ITA-zbS54H091
And it isn’t even Black Friday.
You’re welcome guys.
How is HDR gaming and the 120hz refresh rate?
What's the input lag / response time?
I'm looking for 49" 2017 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYGISTO/ref=psdc_6459737011_t1_B01N6HNA8T?th=1&amp;psc=1
How's it compare to the 6 Series? The only thing that turned me off about the 6 series is that it's edge lit LED instead of Backlit like the 2017 I linked.
I've been going through Amazon and found this TCL 49S405 49-Inch 4K Ultra HD Roku Smart LED TV (2017 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYGISTO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7ESDAbAXRDPE3 I still have to research freesync and I'm sure that tv doesn't have it but does it seem like a decent deal? It's 120hz & 4k.. And the 27" monitor would work great and is priced well too but if the tv would work well with games, it'd be nice to have something bigger to watch movies on also. And I'll check out pcpartpicker now
I beg to differ
I bought the 55" version of this set a few weeks ago and it's been awesome. HDR10 included.
How cheap is that tv gonna be?
Maybe a 43" ($280), 49" ($320), or 55" ($380) tcl Roku tv would be better.
All 4k.
https://www.amazon.com/TCL-43S405-43-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01N29XPO3
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MYGISTO/
https://www.amazon.com/TCL-55S405-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01MTGM5I9
Oh! I think I got it. So the TCL I'm thinking of doesn't have the nicest HDR and I totally accept that I won't get the most amazing picture ever for $300. But simply having the television on in the daytime near a window won't render it impossible to watch, yeah?
edit -- Just another thought... it seems like to stay within this size range but get a noticible picture bump, I would have to spend at least $100 more, right? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYGISTO/
Do the specs on this TV differ much from this one?
https://www.amazon.com/TCL-49S405-49-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01MYGISTO/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=tv&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536423222&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;keywords=tcl+roku+tv&amp;psc=1
All day every day, this is such a great TV.
TCL 49S405 49-Inch 4K Ultra HD Roku Smart LED TV (2017 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYGISTO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_9o7N1tdx17S45
The best bang for your buck when it comes to 4k HD tv's is the TCL Roku TV, https://www.bestbuy.com/site/tcl-55-class-54-6-diag--led-2160p-smart-4k-ultra-hd-tv-roku-tv/5878703.p?skuId=5878703
which is a shockingly cheap $370. You can see a review for it at https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/tcl/s-series-4k-2017-s405. There's a 49" variant too on amazon, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYGISTO/ref=twister_B071J9GQP8?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1 for $330.
You can get a similar tv with better picture quality for $600 https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/tcl/p-series-2017-p607
If you want to go better than that, then it's got to be the LG OLED tv's (that tim is always raving about) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073K3LPGF?tag=rtings-tv-bs10b-20&amp;ie=UTF8 but the cost is $1600. I don't really think it's worth it to buy tv's between the picture quality of the $600 TCL p607 and the LG OLED's because the TCL P607 is such a great deal, and that it isn't until you get to OLED that you can see a noticable "jump" in picture quality.
It’s not so much Saving it’s the type of TV.
TCL 49S405 49-Inch 4K Ultra HD Roku Smart LED TV (2017 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYGISTO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1OvMAb8CN3Y7P
https://www.amazon.com/TCL-55S405-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01MYGISTO?th=1
The 49 inch version of this TV is better than any of those for just a tiny bit more and it's 4k. I did a ton of reading about this and I was floored by just how bad current 1080 TVs are.
I recently built a pc and bought a 1080p 144hz 1ms Monitor and it's been amazing. Now, I have a PS4 Pro which I play on a 4K60hz TV but I want to move my PS4 to my pc desk to have everything in one place (PC using DisplayPort and PS4 would have the HDMI).
Would I notice a difference at all? Should I leave the PS4 in that TV or it is ok to move to the monitor?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MYGISTO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
49’’ not 55.
I think you might want to lower your price on the Shield, the brand new one coming out in a couple weeks cost the same amount as you're asking.
https://www.amazon.com/NVIDIA-SHIELD-TV-Streaming-Media-Player/dp/B01N1NT9Y6
Charity links:
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Not entering.
The GeForce Now beta is included when you buy an NVIDIA Shield TV. In fact, that's how I got it. I know many of you can't afford a high end gaming PC, but maybe $188 (via Amazon) for the NVIDIA Shield is doable. Just a thought.
https://www.amazon.com/NVIDIA-SHIELD-Gaming-Streaming-GeForce/dp/B01N1NT9Y6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=nvidia+shield+tv&amp;qid=1563630614&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=nvi&amp;sr=8-3
Eu uso uma Nvidia Shield Android TV com PLEX
https://www.amazon.com/NVIDIA-SHIELD-Streaming-Player-Controller/dp/B01N1NT9Y6
https://www.plex.tv/
The Xiaomi Mi Box is plug and play. You can add kodi on it if you want.
Or
Nvidia Sheild is also plug and play. More expensive but you can buy it without the gaming remote. This is the one I personally use.
Both can add kodi if you want to and both work from google play store.
Otherwise Apple TV works too but just as expensive as the Nvidia shield. But you can only add MrMc which is a kodi like app.
Hope that helps. If you need help with set up, message me (FYI I’m in Australia so may be a delay on a reply).
Sorry for the confusion. Here is what I am talking about. Amazon offers two versions. One is labeled as a Pro Media Server and the other is a Streaming Media Player.
I don't want to stream shit. I just want to play emulated games from this device to my TV. No interaction with anything else.
What are your thoughts on using the $199 version for local emulation (N64, Dreamcast, PSX, etc.)?
Here is the Streaming Version: $199
https://www.amazon.com/NVIDIA-SHIELD-TV-Streaming-Media-Player/dp/B01N1NT9Y6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495148739&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=Nvidia%2BShield&amp;th=1
Here is the Server Version: $299
https://www.amazon.com/NVIDIA-SHIELD-Pro-Home-Media-Server/dp/B01MYV94H3/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495149341&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=Nvidia+Shield
Shield TV Box I use now for the best experience. I used to use Steam Link but it's capped at 1080p.
Shield TV Box with hardwired ethernet gets me full 4k (2160p). No turning back!
https://www.amazon.com/NVIDIA-SHIELD-Gaming-Streaming-GeForce/dp/B01N1NT9Y6
you can literally replace their cableboxes with this https://www.amazon.com/NVIDIA-SHIELD-Gaming-Streaming-GeForce/dp/B01N1NT9Y6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1550172604&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=nvidia+shield which is normally $170
Nvidia Shield
I agree Shield TV is $209 at the moment according to Amazon.ca
NVIDIA SHIELD TV | Streaming Media Player with Remote & Game Controller - 945-12897-2500-002 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01N1NT9Y6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Y4iaCbF97Z1K7
I know the Wetek Core also had a very good reputation a while back but I just wanted to see if it has held up as unlike the Shield TV it hasn't been updated.
Here are two sources. Your search should turn up more.
https://www.amazon.ca/NVIDIA-SHIELD-Streaming-Media-Player/dp/B01N1NT9Y6
https://www.google.com/search?q=nvidia+shield+canada&amp;biw=1366&amp;bih=638&amp;source=univ&amp;tbm=shop&amp;tbo=u&amp;sa=X&amp;sqi=2&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjOuYO9nuLUAhUT5mMKHbmhBZEQsxgIJQ
107 on Amazon right now.
https://www.amazon.com/NVIDIA-SHIELD-Gaming-Streaming-GeForce/dp/B01N1NT9Y6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1550174763&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=nvidia+shield
It runs a variant of Android OS, with some nvidia tweaks I believe.
START HERE - Pick the Right Kodi Box (updated July 2017)
I prefer the Xiaomi Mi Box or nVIDIA Shield for android tv os and voice search in SPMC. You can buy the Xiaomi Mi Box at your local walmart for $69.
What kind of things are you trying to accomplish with your setup? You'd probably be a lot more future proof by getting an Nvidia Shield for $70 more.
I've only had mine for 7 DAYS and I absolutely love it. I have several other streaming devices and this is now my favorite. I purchased it from Amazon. Link below. Also, I just ordered a Rii i28 mini keyboard for $18.99 but many people like the phone app.
https://www.amazon.com/NVIDIA-SHIELD-Gaming-Streaming-GeForce/dp/B01N1NT9Y6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=nvidia+shield&amp;qid=1556041572&amp;s=electronics&amp;sr=1-3
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N1NT9Y6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_zUKMDbT8773MN
No, the boxes themselves are not illegal. I have two of these
https://www.amazon.com/NVIDIA-SHIELD-Gaming-Streaming-GeForce/dp/B01N1NT9Y6
This is just a fancy "Android Box". The boxes you are talking about are usually cheap chinese boxes. Again, the box is not illegal but the cheap chinese boxes might not last very long or will never be update where as the one I linked to above continues to be updated every so often. I think I have been through 3 or 4 major updates.
The software that these boxes you are referring to falls into a sort of gray area. Last I checked most came with Kodi pre installed.
https://kodi.tv/
Some have a fork of Kodi
https://kodi.wiki/view/Forks
Now there is nothing ilegal with Kodi or a fork of Kodi. Where things get a bit messy is the addons that are available for Kodi. I have not messed with Kodi in sometime but a major addon at the time was Exodus. Exodus was basically a way to pirate content. Search for whatever you want to watch and the addon would look for a source.
There are now some pretty good stand alone .apk's that are very easy to use. These boxes you are referring to might come with a few of theses apk's and Kodi installed.
Again it's kind of a gray area. I know there have been sellers of these boxes that have got into a bit of trouble. Same with people you make the Kodi addons and apk's. There was an .apk called Terrarium TV. The developer sent out an update one day and basically killed the app and vanished. I am guessing his .apk became a little to big and he was feeling the pressure.
You also have IPTV. Recently a lot of IPTV providers were shut down. Several different international police agencies were involved.
I give all this info to highlight that as an end user it is kinda a gray area. I don't know of anyone who has been sent to jail for using any of the above but the people who provide the above have had their share of issues.
The people who sell these boxes see it as a way to make a quick buck. Buy a bunch of cheap boxes. Load them up with pirating software that available for free and sell the boxes with a huge markup.
There is nothing stopping me from loading any of the above listed ways of pirating content on Nvidia Shield but I would never do such a thing.
Edit: I submitted my post to soon and left out the following:
Concerning what you can do? Nothing! The people who sell these boxes come and go. Make new account if they get banned. On facebook if a group gets shutdown a new one will emerge. Unless you are willing to make it a life goal and spend all your time and recoreces fighting this fight there is not anything you can do. In some counties there are no anti piracy laws and as a result a lot of servers that host content are located in those countries. You will find yourself fighting a battle you will never win.
The K1 is from my readings the best Android tablet on the market for gaming.
Sadly Nvidia discontinued it, I'm assuming they have a new model coming.
I only paid like $160 or so they are on Amazon for almost $300!
If Dokkan supported a controller I would have gotten the [Nvidia Shield TV](NVIDIA SHIELD TV | Streaming Media Player with Remote & Game Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N1NT9Y6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XnmdBb3TT2V5F) it just got the Oreo update to.
So I'm not sure what tablet would be budget friendly as literally I only use that tablet for dokkan and that's pretty much it.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B01N1NT9Y6/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
$259.99 for a shield tv
Get outta here with your ref links
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N1NT9Y6
What about this?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y6FSV5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_9n4GAbK8E5B82
Is it worth the price jump from the vizeo? My local best buy has it for 600
I did notice the phillips does not seem to support hdr
TCL 4k TVs. Rtings.com and forums hold them in high regard for their price point.
TCL S405 55inch $399
better quality but currently $649, could drop down on black friday.
TCL 55P607 55-Inch HDR
Just get this:
https://www.amazon.com/TCL-55P607-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B06Y6FSV5Q/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Seriously read professional reviews, it's the best 4k/HDR TV you can get under 1k, and Roku is the best smart tv software out there. All the other ones, Sony, Samsung, are becoming increasing riddled with ADs and spying BS.
This TCL gets great reviews and is significantly cheaper: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y6FSV5Q/ref=psdc_6459737011_t1_B01MUG21R7
I have the lower end TCL that’s only $400 and it’s great.
That's easy
Amazon $850
https://www.amazon.com/TCL-55P607-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B06Y6FSV5Q
Currently using this guy and have been very happy with it.
I see it on amazon right now...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y6FSV5Q
2017 TCP P Series $599.
https://www.amazon.com/TCL-55P607-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B06Y6FSV5Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497201491&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=tcl+p
https://www.amazon.com/TCL-55P607-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B06Y6FSV5Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499454019&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=tcl+P+series
That is your best bet for a TV... really good
As far as I’m aware, no true HDR exists on monitors atm. Only truly exists on 4k TVs (I could be wrong)
You could look at the TCL P670:
Amazon’s Listing for P670
RTings lists it as a good gaming option
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/tcl-55-class-54-6-diag--led-2160p-smart-4k-ultra-hd-tv-with-high-dynamic-range-roku-tv/5878705.p?skuId=5878705
or
https://www.amazon.com/TCL-55P607-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B06Y6FSV5Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503268554&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=tcl+p605
They're essentially the same tv except for a different remote. The best buy version is the cheaper version.
Here.
TCL 55P607 55-Inch 4K Ultra HD Roku Smart LED TV (2017 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y6FSV5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i9GMzbT1J690X
It's a little out of that budget right now, but it's worth it. You might want to wait until black Friday, too
The Wirecutter's new top-pick for best TV has a built-in Roku, which might be a good option. Certainly a step up from most "smart" TVs.
Yeah, and additionally it isn't necessarily ideal for gaming for some of the aforementioned reasons. Looks like 55" is what you're after. I'd do this one
You'll come in wayyyyy under budget, with enough left over to upgrade whatever pc you have now, or, to even buy two of them. Just make sure you switch the display mode to "game" as that disables all the janky post-processing most tv's do, which can also cause input lag.
I just purchased this TCL tv and it's fantastic.
Check out all the different reviews around the internet about it. Their new models just dropped so this particular set has seen a big drop in price. The Roku format is great too.
But man oh man. That sweet 4K HDR is great.
Do you have a pro?
Sorry to hijack OP's post, but reading this thread really proves that I have no clue what TV I should be looking to buy.
I was recommended this TV from another post:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y6FSV5Q/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_5?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Apparently this TV is Dolby Vision HDR which is not HDR10 so does that mean I shouldn't purchase this one and start looking elsewhere?
I was really satisfied with the price but if I'm going to spend 650 on the wrong TV I might as well spend more to get one with the right HDR.
If you go budget go with this TCL
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06Y6FSV5Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505625124&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=tcl+55p607&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51jMb13MKML&amp;ref=plSrch
Has actual HDR and actual 4K the S series mentioned by other redditor uses tech that fakes 4K and HDR not true 4K or HDR. (55" 4K HDR 10)
The TCL P607 (Amazon.com) and I believe it's called TCL P605 at Best Buy are both same TV best buy version is lacking a remote with a headphone jack other wise same 4K/HDR panel. It's rated very highly by AVS Forums (Trustworthy Display Info) so does Rtings.com, and other sites as well. Best buy version is $599.99 and Amazon version is $649.99 if you want headphone jack on TV remote go Amazon but seeing as your using an X Box you already have a headphone jack on controller for night time head phone use.
Another good budget Display Panel is the Vizio M60-D1 (60" 4K HDR 10) I got this unit for $699.99 from Costco. If you go with a Vizio go with a 2016 M60-D1 or larger panel size. Any 60" and above Vizio Panels are 120Hz refresh rate (Manufacturers use wording to make refresh rates sound inflated for instance Vizio states 240 for 120Hz panels and 120 for 60Hz panels)
120Hz will help your games looks smoother and the prize between a 2016 Vizio M series 55" vs 60" isn't a lot so well worth it in case of using for an Xbox.
Lastly the Oled Panel the previous redditor mentioned is without a doubt the best panel available in USA currently for gaming use. Looks like that's not an option for you currently so the two others I listed are great budget TVs between $600-700. I can also recommend some panels for the $400-600 range or the $200-400 range if you need a different price point. True 4K and HDR with a good refresh rate aren't going to be easy to find below $500-700
I am truly surprised that no one has mentioned the Nvidia Shield TV for this application. The device can be had for well under $200 and you can attach external drives to it.
It has plenty of oomph as a Plex Server for your described use case. This concept gives you:
Hopefully /u/Cravenspurs is still reading this thread!
edit: formatting
Mind if I ask where and how much you paid for NVIDIA SHIELD? It's $229 on Amazon.ca.
Currently $179 on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/NVIDIA-Shield-Streaming-Media-Player/dp/B075RXV2VR
Define small?
Shield
$139 at Amazon. [link]
Edit: Just noticed this post is for Australians.
Back on sale for $140 today:
Amazon (free Echo Dot): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RXV2VR/
Best Buy (free Echo Dot): https://www.bestbuy.com/site/nvidia-shield-tv-4k-hdr-streaming-media-player-with-google-assistant-black/6100500.p
BH: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1362644-REG/nvidia_945_12897_2500_100_shield_tv_darcy_remote.html
Any Android TV device including both of those above will do that. Both come with remotes. Mi Box S is $60 at Walmart and works fine, Shield TV is on sale right now at most outlets for $140 and is overall faster/better supported.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Xiaomi-Mi-Box-S-4K-HDR-Android-TV-with-Google-Assistant-Remote-Streaming-Media-Player/677842593
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RXV2VR/
nvidia shield amazon ca
Is this the black friday deal? It can't get lower than this can it?
https://www.amazon.ca/NVIDIA-SHIELD-Streaming-Player-Remote/dp/B075RXV2VR/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541781413&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=nvidia+shield
Here is the Canadian link.... $179.99 for Prime members
~$180 from Amazon warehouse deals atm.
Nvida shield. $179
PC's can have issues with surround sound through HDMI unless your motherboard/soundcard was made to be used in an HTPC kind of set up.
You can still stream content through Plex/Kodi for free through your home network in a more user friendly UI than a PC.
Pretty sure you can also stream games from your computer through the shield TV
I don't have one yet but as soon as I get some bills out of the way I'm rewarding myself with one. I was going to build a whole 3rd computer to use as an HTPC but forgot about all the annoying little stuff I had to deal with on my i3 4160 htpc build.
Is now https://www.amazon.com/TCL-55R617-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B079N9HDNQ/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524778087&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=tcl+6+series
TCL 55R617 55-Inch 4K Ultra HD Roku Smart LED TV (2018 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079N9HDNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iRaCDb18BHFF0
Not sure about 2019 models but you’re not gonna find a better tv for under 1000
Edit: Best Buy has their in house model for 499.99. Comes with no infrared remote and no Alexa so if those are important to you than get the one from amazon
Is it possible you can still return/exchange the tv? If so this or this are good bets for a tv with true HDR at a similar price.
wait, am I wrong, I thought it was the 4-series I am looking at
https://www.amazon.com/TCL-55R617-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B079N9HDNQ
edit: okay I think this actually is the 6-series then
https://www.amazon.com/TCL-55R617-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B079N9HDNQ
This is a pretty solid choice
I bought [this one] (http://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Articulating-Bracket-Screen-Monitor/dp/B000ID7QNI/) and I've been very happy with it.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ID7QNI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I wish I would of went with something like this instead as it is really hard to mount the mounts exactly perfect when I am trying to align 2 monitors.
If your monitor can handle VESA mounting you can easily buy a mount for the wall or for your desk. I pasted some links from amazon below. Happy Hunting.
http://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Tilting-Mount-Bracket-13~30inch/dp/B005C2914C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1398191305&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=vesa+desk+mount
http://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Articulating-Bracket-Monitor-ML10B/dp/B000ID7QNI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1398191291&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=vesa+wall+mount
im looking for one too...although the monitor manual for mine (pg278q / pretty much the same) only use VESA rated mounts so i did some re search and came with this definition.
meaning if your desired mount have this dimensions to attach the respective monitors you are most likely set.
For now im going to try this...
or
its cheap and it wont be a total loss if im mistaken.
Something very similar to this. I bought mine locally, it's a no-name brand model.
ASUS PG348Q and I believe this is the mount:
VideoSecu TV Wall Mount Articulating Arm Monitor Bracket for most 19"-32", some up to 47" LCD LED Plasma Flat Panel Screen TV with VESA 100/75mm ML10B 1E9 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ID7QNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qVq6CbYNQ9V14
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-3-Way-Adjustable-Mount-Bracket/dp/B003L171KW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1381139333&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=monitor+mount
http://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Articulating-Bracket-Monitor-ML10B/dp/B000ID7QNI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1381139333&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=monitor+mount
I bought an arm like this a year ago, it is very solid, perfect for my 24" samsung computer monitor. I have it mounted on the side of my computer desk, similar to the way you are describing you want. At $15, you cant go wrong with it.
yup its a kul ES-87 with the extra white top. The monitor stand is this guy paired with this thing
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ID7QNI/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Lu3.ub0YEQKSS
Specs/everything in these pictures
Case: Corsair 400C
CPU: 7700k @
RAM: 16gb G.Skill TridentZ DDR4 3200
CPU Cooler: Corsair H115i
GPU: GTX 1080 FTW (slightly OC'd)
Mobo: MSI Z270 Gaming M5
PSU: Corsair AX760 with custom Corsair red cables.
Monitors: LG Ultrawide and an old Asus VH242H
Monitor Mounts: Ultrawide Mount. ASUS Monitor Mount
Keyboard: Corsair K70 with brown switches
Mouse: Logitech G9x (I think this bad boy has been discontinued?)
Mousepad: Large Glorious Gaming Mousepad
Speakers/Monitors: Mackie CR4 LTD
Audio Interface: Focusrite Scarlett 6i6
Keyboard: Yamaha MM6
Desk: Bestar Table
Chair: Amazon Basics Executive Chair
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ID7QNI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
the 4 20"s are hung with 4 of these. They're all Vesa mount happy.
Well thank you for the suggestion. I went into Home Depot today, and of coarse they didn't have anything close to what I wanted, besides just buying a full wall mount. So I went with your suggestion and tried Amazon. The one you linked has several bad reviews, so I did some more digging and found this one for $15. What I am going to do then is just screw my screen to a wood piece, then screw that the bracket (because the screws don't line up on my LCD and the screw holes on the bracket, so gotta improvise.)
Thanks for your help!
BTW cheapest wall mount was $50 @ Home Depot...
The brackets appear to be the following model. I, myself, use one. Great buy at ~$15.
I bought a pair of these back in December to mount my 19" and 23" monitors. They've been great for me so far.
Thanks! The monitors are wall mounted using these -> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ID7QNI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1.
They just come with 2 screws that you screw into studs. Pretty easy and very adjustable.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ID7QNI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I use a couple of these on a pair of 34" LGs stacked. They hold up well and they're damn cheap.
This one:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ID7QNI/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Super cheap, works great!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ID7QNI?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01
Can I use this mount https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ID7QNI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
on this monitor?
not the exact one I have but it's very close
The chair is an Aeron by Herman Miller - they're pretty expensive, but incredibly comfortable (I work from home, so I had to have something I could handle sitting in for 12 hours at a time).
My bottom three monitors are actually just sitting on the desk, I use a cheap wall mount for the top monitor. I'm actually planning on getting a wall mount for the others eventually, but I'm in an apartment temporarily, so I'm waiting until I move into a house before investing in a mount and a better desk.
What I'd really love to do for my next desk is build my computer in a Red Harbinger gaming computer desk because it looks badass and my one-year-old loves hitting the power button on my tower (which currently sits on the floor).
Only the best $20 mount you can buy! Amazon
You could use a regular monitor mount like this and just drill holes into the case to attach it. If you can't weld or fabricate I think you'll have trouble getting something as nice as the maxvision design.
I can't see that post, but I've used these Energy Take 5.1 for about 6 years now and they've been really good.
I loved myEnergy Take system when I had it. Combine that with a $150 reciever, and $50 woth of cables, and banana plugs, and it will sound muuuuuch better then a sound bar.
Sorry, they're spare from this set. https://www.amazon.com/Energy-Classic-Theater-System-Black/dp/B001202C44
The quintets are a great little system. No subwoofer with this set up and you'll definitely need one but as far as sound goes they're pretty good.
If that size is what you're looking for a lot of people will let you know of the Monoprice 5.1 which are pretty much a direct copy of the EnergyTake classic 5.1 to the point Energy sued them for ripping off their stuff.
A friend of mine has the Monoprice speakers and they're ok, but i personally think the Klipsch set up sounds better.
Following your guidance, and in accordance to my budget, I came across the following AVR and Speakers. I was wondering your quick thoughts on them? I have been using my tv to accept all the HDMI inputs from my DVR, Xbox One, PS3, etc, but I also have a decade old HTiB that just doesn't cut shit anymore. Thanks!
I used to work for a certain regional electronics retailer(that rhymes with LIES) and we used to use the Logitech Z's to play music after the store closed. They were able to be heard in our ~80,000 sq/ft floor space. However, next to the Energy Classics they sound like mud. You may go a little over budget in getting a decent receiver to power these but what you gain will be a much tighter bass response as well as tasty, crispy mid range & high range response. It's really night and day if you listen to them back to back. The Logitechs have a shit amp, shit drivers and absolutely shit cabinet design (and I'm using the descriptor "cabinet" in the loosest sense conceivable).
I'm writing this recommendation not from the perspective of some audio snob. You will literally hear things in movies you've never heard before. You will hear details in your favorite albums that you've been missing for years. You will love it.
Eyeball Craigslist for some speakers. I saw a 5.0 set of Mirage speakers go for 800 bucks the other day. They were brand freaking new too. I scored some old JBL SVA-2100's and a JBL SVA-Center for $300 off one guy and then (4)JBL-8330s for $50 a piece from someone else. It took me about a year, but I have killer speakers for $500.
Alternatively, Klipsch makes solid speakers if you like the sound of horns. The brand Energy is also made by Klipsch and the 5.1 setup from them goes on sale for 250-300 regularly. Use that for now and then add two Klipsch tower speakers later and your set for a solid 7.1 without breaking the bank.
If you can save up a bit more, the energy 5.1 take classic is pretty solid for a htib. Approx $385 on amazon here
They absolutely require a subwoofer and don't include one. You would be much better off purchasing the Energy 5.1 Take Classic set that Deadleggg mentioned; this set includes a subwoofer, has similar sized speakers, is $50 less, and the audio quality is equal to what you would get from that Klipsch set.
When I started my home theater in the living room, the receiver was my first purchase (awesome mis-priced sale at Best Buy, saved about $500 and got a much nicer receiver than I was originally planning). I picked up the front towers on sale as well and ran it like that for a few months. I added the center and rears as they went on sale, and finally the subwoofer. That setup is fantastic, I have under $1,000 invested and it is absolutely amazing for games and movies.
Approaching audio in this way gives us the same benefits as building our PCs: customization and upgrade-ability. You can start small and inexpensive and expand as budget allows.
One other note, I think one of your other posts mentioned you were worried about size/space. There are some great 'satellite' speaker systems that have amazing sound quality, like these Energy Take speakers. I personally prefer larger speakers, but if I had a smaller space I would probably end up with that set (plus a receiver).
The Monoprice 5.1 system for $270 is very similar to the highly reviewed Energy Take 5.1 system that sells for $400. In fact the last version so clearly was a clone that Energy sued monoprice.
For an amp you kinda have to look around for one that has the features you want for your price. The Wirecutter might be a good place to start.
So that's where the white van speaker scam units come from. These are much better.
If you must have 5.1 I'd suggest:
Denon AVR-S510BT
Energy Take Classic 5.1
Add some speaker wire and a surge protector and you'd be done. It wouldn't have the wireless rears that you wanted.
I think you should consider doing a stereo setup and then adding in the remaining components to get your 5.1 as you can afford them. You'd end up with a better system in the end, albeit for more money.
Maybe these three:
TV, Surround and Receiver...
This 5.1 system http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001202C44/ or http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001XURGSK/ or this 5.0 system http://www.amazon.com/dp/B014JTYKA8/ at $200 plus a sub for $100-150 like http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008NCD2PC/ or http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DUHW6UW/ or http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LRPXAU/
For the receiver, in the lower budgets, I'd say go with a Denon. This site is great, I bought my Marantz on it. Condition of it looked brand new and it hasn't had a single problem for the year I've had it.
For speakers, if you want a full 5.1 setup that is pretty good reviewed, Energy 5.1 would fit the bill. They are also pretty small speakers so it seems like they would be great for you.
Another option you can do, is go to your nearest Paradigm or Bowers and Wilkins dealer (most in my area carry both those brands) and listen to their offering of smaller speakers, they are great and are of higher quality than the energy. Other great brands I like are Monitor Audio, Wharfedale, or Aperion (I own a pair of Aperion Versus grand bookshelves). With a company like Aperion, it is nice because you get a 30 day free trial, so just pick out a speaker from them, test them out, and if you don't like them, you have nothing to lose. That is what sold me on them, and I ended up loving my speakers so I kept them.
Almost forgot about the subwoofer, if you go with the energy package, you can also just buy the 5 loud speakers without the sub. For the lower budgets, you can get a BIC America F12, or if you want smaller, Aperion or SVS are great internet-direct brands and you can buy one of their smaller subs. I personally went with SVS for the subwoofers, they have a reputation of making some of the best subs, and I can say the sub I went with kicks ass.
www.avsforum.com
They have infinite resources and info on the subject. I like many people started with a home theater in a box and then upgraded over time.
This is a popular choice and recommended by many people.
http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Classic-Theater-System-Black/dp/B001202C44
For $300 it can't be beat.
All of their centers are a bit long. The matching one would be the CC-5 but the dimensions are 5.7" (14.5cm) H x 14" (35.5cm) W x 8" (20.3cm) D
You could get the take 5.1 classic set and use the sub and two speakers for a 2.1 system:
http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Classic-Theater-System-Black/dp/B001202C44/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417390557&amp;sr=1-1
they also have the RC-Micro: http://www.amazon.com/Energy-RC-Micro-Surround-Speaker-System/dp/B001RQ2CXO
I want to spend somewhere between 100-350 bucks. Im not sure if going over 350 would help as it's a small part of a room. Also I'm using
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/rocketfish-tilting-wall-mounts-for-most-small-speakers-5-pack-black/5149013.p?id=1219112769003&amp;skuId=5149013 brackets right now. Ideally I'd like a quick swap job because I'm not the one installing it - but if there are some other brackets I can use I'd look into that.
EDIT: I'm looking at these as a possibility since they had high reviews on amazon
http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Classic-Theater-System-Black/dp/B001202C44/
This?
Does your laptop even support 5.1? Most only have stereo output.
I was linking to the best bang for buck, but there's other good ones out there.
You want sleek small footprint? Fine. Energy.
Once again, it's still smacking around the Bose for under cost - and I personally think these look nicer still fitting in a small footprint being wall mountable.
If i were in the US ? And had your budget, i'd get these. Check out the amazon reviews and google other reviews. They have got a lot of praise and punch far above their weight when comparing to more expensive systems.
http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Classic-Theater-System-Black/dp/B001202C44/ref=sr_1_1?s=aht&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1377404810&amp;sr=1-1
There has also been some good receiver options posted. I'd also second what northzone mentioned about gaming headsets, they are great, but a home theatre also has other benefits as well....
There are a lot of factors to consider. What is the size of the room? What will the speakers be playing? What do you consider not-terrible? What is your budget? Going from built in TV speakers to a Home Theater In A Box can be a big upgrade, and might be your definition of not-terrible. Again, the size of the room makes a huge difference.
Some people will tell you that if you're really looking for a good sound system on the cheap that a good 3.1 system will be a better option if you are really concerned about quality. This may be an option you might want to consider. I had my heart set on surround but realized I could get a great 3.1 system and am just now upgrading to a 5.1 system one year later. I am very happy I went this route.
If you are on a budget, look used first off. I don't know where you are located and what the used market is like in your area. I'm in a crappy area for used gear. So I'll give you my recommendation for new on a college budget.
If you have your heart set on surround and new, you may want to look into the Energy Take Classic 5.1 speakers - $400. They will work wonders in a smaller room and have absolutely rave reviews. Many people say they're the best for under $1000. I highly recommend them. You will need a separate amplifier/receiver. You'd be looking at around $500-600 depending on which receiver you get.
If you are looking to get something higher-end, the sky is the limit.
Edit: Here is a fantastic review for the Take Classics. Go read the other amazon reviews. I hope they're in your budget.
If it isn't, and the listening room is smaller, consider 3.1/3.0 or a HTIB. Who knows, it may make you very happy dropping $100-$200 at Walmart for a HTIB. *wince
http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Classic-Theater-System-Black/dp/B001202C44
[1]
Don't need the subwoofer, so don't want to throw out the cost more.
I had a set of their speakers for 3 years, was good, but three of the speakers died.
I contacted them to get replacements and the costs...to replace the speakers were more than I paid for a brand new entire system.
Sadly, it was discontinued by the manufacturer.
http://www.amazon.com/Energy-RC-Micro-Pack-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B006J0NZ6Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451308542&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=energy+take+classic+rc+micro
[2]
That's what I have at current, the center and two rears burnt out.
Energy wants 149.99 for a new center and 99$ for each side(I paid 220$ for the set new, on Amazon 3 years ago.)
Already got a good subwoofer, don't need another.
Or if anyone has suggestions for a different set in the 200-250$ price range of similar quality.
These Energy's are the same price and suposed to be great (albeit I have not heard them).
The two obvious choices are:
two pairs of the BSP-22s, an SP-C22, and a subwoofer: good, better, best
Pictures ASAP? It would make is a hell of a lot easier to solve your problem.
The sub from this guy has a set of stereo RCA inputs, so if you a mono RCA cable, you'll need a mono female to dual male Y-cable.
Not sure if you bought it but if you haven't the energy 5.1 speaker system you mentioned just dropped to $300 again
Link
http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Classic-Theater-System-Black/dp/B001202C44
Thats a relatively good receiver to have that low of a speaker budget. I would be recommending the other mono price 5.1 series but I have no Idea where it went. They might have finally gotten busted for making an exact copy of this [Energy Classic 5.1] (http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Classic-Theater-System-Black/dp/B001202C44/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1369027615&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=energy+classic+5.1) setup. Monoprice used to have it in the mid to low $200s but even at the amazon price of $300 for the energy brand Its the bare minimum I can recommend. If you are patient enough you can also build up your home theater by starting off with front channel speakers until you can afford the rest. Head on over to r/zeos linked in the sidebar if you're interested in that.
I like your first suggestion I have been looking at this receiver
and
these speakers
I am not sure if you can do a 5.1 by running speaker wires under a rug, etc. But I had a similar situation and I placed the center channel speaker and two book shelf speakers on top of the TV stand (left and right channels). I put the receiver on a stand behind the center channel speaker. I ran speaker wires under a rug and put the left and right surround sound speakers on stands next to the sofa. I put the subwoofer behind the sofa.
Later, I even put two bookshelf speakers and another subwoofer behind the sofa and for a short time was running a 7.2 surround sound system. It did not get much stereo separation, but it sounded great compared to a sound bar. Your situation is actually better than mine in some ways due to you having more room to put larger speakers under the TV than I had.
Here is the speakers and stand I was working with: http://amzn.com/B001202C44
Here is a stand similar to what I used for the receiver: http://amzn.com/B003M2YDE2
My wife was skeptical at first, but thought it was a good solution after I got it all hooked up.
Ok thanks, that seems to be the consensus on my Amazon question too. I guess i'l have to exchange it.
By any chance do you know the difference between this version and the version I have?
One seems to be newer, more expensive, but doesn't have netflix, while the older, cheaper one seems better. Is the more expensive one worth it at all?
Would this be the best one? Its the newest. Amazon Link WD TV
This has no Netflix for some reason..
There is also this one which has older software I believe. Amazon Link WD TV Live
There is also a WD TV Play, but no USB included.
...
Ordering a WD TV Live 3rd Gen WDBHG70000NBK. Seems to be the best.
I've got a WD TV Live(Get that one because for some reason the latest one does not get netflix) and it beats out the Roku in my opinion because it can play any external storage, and it can find computers with Plex installed on the network.
Is this the one?
http://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Streaming-Media-Player/dp/B005KOZNBW
To echo others in the thread, most tablets and laptops will be more expensive than some of the small set-top boxes for digital media, like the Roku 2 XS, Roku 3, Amazon Fire TV, or WDTV. All have their trade-offs, but I know the first 3 at least can connect to a few varieties of media server on a separate computer, such as the very popular Plex, or play local media from an attached USB device. They all sell at $100 USD or less right now.
I have used both the USB and Plex options personally on Roku 2 XS and Amazon FireTV and really enjoyed the experience, though my preference of the two is Plex for a home setup, while USB is fairly convenient if you want to go binge a show at a friend's house.
The Plex client for the device should support more than one server machine, so if you have other members of the household with their own media, they can fire up a Plex server of their own when they want to watch on the set-top box.
I cannot say anything about the WD TV from first hand knowledge, only the Roku series and Amazon Fire TV.
Not to derail, but sure you don't want to just get a WD TV Live Media Player and a big enough external?
I have had the pleasure of using one and it seems like exactly what you need without spending more than $100 dollars. It plays almost any video file, can stream locally, has hulu plus/netflix, and does all this through wifi (or ethernet).
I have a WDTV Live that does all of those things. WD still supports it with firmware updates and it plays more format types that any other streamer box I have found. Some people complain that the interface has too many options and is not very friendly for non-technical people in the house, but I like it. I stream content from a Plex server, and that requires Plex to have an accurate DLNA profile for this device for every content type that I want to play so that Plex knows how to transcode the content. That works most of the time, but not always.
This one?
http://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Streaming-Media-Player/dp/B005KOZNBW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1343932605&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=wd+tv
Well, I meant streaming from my computer via media server, to a PS3. I have a 2tb in my computer currently that my PS3 reads just fine, and it's formatted in NTFS. If it can read that via media server, I suppose it should do exFAT just fine too! if not, I suppose I could invest in something like this. I'm sure my wife wouldn't mind the nexflix/hulu/spotify hub right there at our TV/stereo. hm. exFAT it is! thanks reddit!
WD TV Live is a pretty awesome little machine. Netflix app runs just as good as anything I've seen, wireless capabilities, hulu, youtube, pandora, and can play basically any video format via the usb hub for $90.
I just got this in the mail today: http://www.amazon.com/Live-Media-Player-Wi-fi-1080p/dp/B005KOZNBW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1383151793&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=western+digital+tv
I'll let you know how it works after set up.
After doing some research, I figured that the WD TV Live Streaming Media Player was the best choice for me. It will read nearly every file I throw at it except for .flv files. It'll do YouTube, Hulu, Netflix, and a bunch of other sites but unfortunately won't do Amazon streaming. It can hook up to any computer I make available on my network, or I can just plug a USB drive or stick into it. It can also go to the net and pull information for TV shows and movies. Finally, one of the big draws for me was the fact that it could play DVD ISO files. It has a lot more flexibility than a Roku for only a few dollars more.
The changes a year has wrought:
AppleTV
Roku
Western Digital Live
Vizio Co-Star
Many Blu-Ray players
Many Smart TVs.
Most current gen game consoles (PS3, Xbox 360, Wii)
All support Netflix and all support 5.1 sound. It depends on personal preference to define what is best for you.
I'm a big fan of the WD TV live streaming media player.
Not only can you plug in a USB hard drive and have all of your media on there, it also can stream from your mac with Playback or PS3 Media Server. It's compatible with pretty much every format I've thrown at it, and it you set it up right, it can play your itunes collection right through your mac as long as they're on the same wifi.
It's cheap, and I really couldn't be happier with it.
http://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Streaming-Media-Player/dp/B005KOZNBW
I can't really remember the plex differences off hand, but I remember liking it better. I'll try them both out tonight and let you know. WDTV definitely has more connection options. Such as Plex (DLNA), NFS, and SMB.
That isn't to say that the WDTV isn't without it's problems. The ideal way to hook up media is using the SMB option where it stores meta data in a .wdtv folder on the SMB/NFS share itself, but I couldn't get this to work reliably with the current firmware. Using a Windows server was unreliable. The share would disappear randomly and was unable to reconnect the share without deconfiguring the share, rebooting the device and trying again. And using Linux/Samba or NFS as the server wouldn't even work claiming it didn't have write access (it did). So I use Plex on Windows and it works well, although some movies might take 30 seconds or so to start up, but once they're playing it's fine. There is a newer firmware revision out that I haven't had a chance to check out yet. I'm sure other people have it working fine, but there's something about my network (possibly the Linux Samba server) that it doesn't like.
If I had to buy it again, I'd opt for the version with the hard drive as all the SMB/NFS/DLNA woes would not be an issue, and hopefully everything will just work as there's no other computers that need to be configured, turned on, etc. 1TB wouldn't store all my media, but at least all my home videos, pictures and music would have fit...
EDIT:
I have this:
http://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Streaming-Media-Player/dp/B005KOZNBW/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1347034810&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=wdtv+live
But would rather have this:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GK0GKO
Here's the version I swear by http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005KOZNBW?cache=013c40e7e3a21c163a3bd534f2f7e4bc&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;qid=1404226025&amp;sr=8-2#ref=mp_s_a_1_2
This is the model that has the most file support. Meaning it plays more file types than any other version. And it still offers the standard online streaming services.
I've moved on to Android set top boxes at my main TV, but still have 3 of these connected around the house.
Western Digital Media Player is arguably the most popular. Pretty much any media player you get will have streaming ability, but it's first and foremost a way to plug in an USB full of videos and play on your TV or projector:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005KOZNBW?pc_redir=1412256797&amp;robot_redir=1
You're right about that. The Roku plays h.264 natively; DivX-encoded AVI requires Plex or XBMC to transcode.
This looks like your best option (and it's on sale right now):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005KOZNBW?qid=1343016979&amp;sr=1-1
So you want one of these?
edit: or if you're feeling loose with the cash, you can get one of these and say goodbye to cables all together
Maybe something like this?
http://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-Transmitter-Streaming-Satellite-NPCS549/dp/B009E6R89C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1407725284&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=hdmi+wireless
You have a few options depending on your budget.
The cheapest option is something like this. A consumer hdmi transmitter and receiver, probably poor reliability.
HDMI in general isn't great for this, and you'd be better off with something that uses SDI.
A camera like this can use an SDI cable which is better for longer runs, has locking connectors, and will be easier to run than hdmi. You can pick up a wireless SDI if you want a more reliable wireless solution.
If you still want to go the HDMI route, but want a cheap camcorder that's fairly versatile with longer lasting batterys, try something like this (and you can even use this with the cheaper wireless HDMI if you so desire)
Oh, and for running SDI into a computer, this has worked well for me
from microsoft with miracast: https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-P3Q-00001-Wireless-Display-Adapter/dp/B01AZC3J3M/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510873354&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=wireless+hdmi
from a random compagny: https://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-Transmitter-Streaming-Projector-NPCS549/dp/B009E6R89C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510873354&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=wireless+hdmi
I don't know how well those product work, just that they exist, you would have to make your research on what is the best to buy
Are you looking for something like this or This
I looked into these over the past couple weeks and some have better reviews and more/less lag then others. Personally I don't want to shell out $150-$200 so I'm going to run a 40' HDMI cable from my pc down through the basement then up to my living room tv
that seems like one of the few options that lets me ditch the fios remote and control tv through it as well. I think, no matter what way I choose, I'm going to be fishing at least a power cable through the wall unless I do something like this and just send everything from a nearby laptop.
do you know if the co-star can grab video from network shared devices or play avi/divx?
So something like this?
$160
I have no first hand experience with these, but this is what I am considering:
Less expensive version:
http://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-Transmitter-Streaming-Satellite-NPCS549/dp/B009E6R89C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408895082&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=WIRELess+hdmi
More expensive version:
http://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-Transmitter-Streaming-Satellite-NPCS550/dp/B0092T3E3A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408895082&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=WIRELess+hdmi
this tech actually exists - versions of it that work well cost a couple hundred, but I've set them up for clients a couple times.
I've used and been pleased with the aries brand:
https://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-Transmitter-Streaming-Projector-NPCS549/dp/B009E6R89C
So not only does nintendo have the tech it used for the wii u to draw from, but a lot of other new research and production with widi, other wireless HDMI implementations, etc.
Additionally, taking the "wii u" half of the wireless display into a dongle and swapping in the wireless display hardware into the console itself makes a lot of sense, and should function well. Just have to hope they can nail near-zero latency, or they offer us a cabled option when latency matters... for smash bros with your bros.
Wireless HDMI transmitter and receiver.
At ~$150 you might be better off with building a media PC and just using Steam In-Home-Streaming. You can add non-steam games and applications whether or not they were purchased through the market for the sake of streaming.
Oh, that makes sense. As far as I know, there is no way to do it wirelessly. The only 2 options I can think of are the DJI LightBridge 2 or using an HDMI wireless transmitter. Both options would require a power source.
-take one from inside to outside when you want it.
-spectrum has a Roku app you can use (not sure which provider you have)
-wireless hdmi thing but it's $200 so probably wouldn't be worth it
If DVR has composite output, maybe a cheap wireless video transmitter/receiver kit would work. Also, check out this device from Amazon
What kind of projector, does it have wifi/smart capabilities?
If not you could get a rpi, install Android or something and hide it up there.
Additionally, you could get a wireless HDMI kit like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009E6R89C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_9rPwCbJV2B0F0
I would actually recommend getting a wireless HDMI transmitter/receiver. You can mouse the receiver to the back of your TV, and just plug the transmitter into the device. Here is a example of one. http://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-Transmitter-Streaming-Satellite-NPCS549/dp/B009E6R89C
I don't believe there's any way to do this aside from a really long HDMI cable or one of those wireless HDMI transmitters
https://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-Transmitter-Streaming-Projector-NPCS549/dp/B009E6R89C/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540213515&sr=1-3&keywords=wireless+HDMI&dpID=41cCaC9e2ZL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
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That is a link for wireless HDMI, I have use these with a HDMI Splitter for a few meeting spaces we have for a few years now.
If you can't connect directly from the camera to the projector with a cable, you could also look into a nyrius aries:
https://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-Transmitter-Streaming-Projector-NPCS549/dp/B009E6R89C/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539720479&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=nyrius+aries&amp;psc=1
They're not 4k, but 1080p max, but otherwise great.
Maybe this if you have $180
If you really can't run a cable from your computer to the TV, something like this would work for short distances.
I think you are thinking of a Google Chromecast, although those have limited streaming options.
Hate to be the negative Nancy but this will never happen on the PS4.
If you're looking for a more viable option, think smart and buy one of these