https://www.amazon.com/Instant-Cold-Pack-Kit-POUNDS/dp/B07CZK913Y/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1IKXCAGFDNXZK&keywords=tannerite&qid=1571616531&sprefix=tannerit%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-3

​

https://www.amazon.com/2-Pounds-Aluminum-30-micron/dp/B00KF598X0/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1IKXCAGFDNXZK&keywords=tannerite&qid=1571616531&sprefix=tannerit%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-2

​

True to ACME, enjoy your grievous bodily harm.

To make this easier in a practical way, you could roll your dice into something like a 90 degree piece of aluminum (like this).

Once the dice are settled, you can always see which two numbers you got. It also makes it easier if orientation doesn't matter, which gives you 12 possibilities instead of 24.

Edit: One disadvantage I see with this strategy is that you can't use the values of the faces as numbers. Getting 1,4 and 2,3 are both possible. So you'd have to assign numbers to each combination (e.g. 1,2 = 0; 1,3 = 1; etc.)

This was my preferred secure wipe method when I still worked in I.T. My second career as a chemist is a much better fit.

1. Remove drive from case.
   
2. Place drive on concrete, gravel, sand or other non-flammable surface away from flammable objects/material. (I prefer to place the drive on an upside-down cast iron skillet so that the heat is less likely to damage the pavement.)
   
3. Place ceramic flower pot with drain hole on top of drive (alternately, shotgun a can of soda, cut the top off, place this on top of drive).
   
4. Fill pot/can with a thoroughly homogenized mix of iron oxide powder and aluminum powder. Do not breath this dust. The proper ratio is roughly 3:1 iron to aluminum by weight.
   
5. Place a layer of potassium permanganate on top of powder mix.
   
6. Quickly add several drops of glycerin on top of the permanganate.
   
7. It will only take a moment for this reaction to ignite the thermite so be sure to de-ass the area with the quickness. If you can't stop yourself from watching, wear eclipse viewing glasses or welding goggles. Seriously, it's bright.
   
8. Avoid breathing in the resulting smoke. It's probably toxic 15 ways from Sunday.
   
9. Wait for everything to cool before retrieving drive.
   
10. Return the drive to the customer as evidence of secure wipe.
    
    

    WARNING: THIS PROCESS IS PROVIDED FOR INFORMATIONAL AND ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY. PERFORM THIS METHOD AT YOUR OWN RISK. THIS GENERATES TONS OF HEAT, BLINDING UV LIGHT, MOLTEN IRON, AND FUN. NEITHER I, NOR REDDIT, NOR YOUR PARENTS WILL BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR INJURIES, DEATH, PROPERTY DAMAGE, OR OSHA RECORDABLE INCIDENTS.

Yep, AFCI for everything but the 30amp appliance circuits.

Here are the led's and channel:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071FT9SXK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5U2CN4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I did self adhesive led strips mounted to 1/4" aluminum angle stock. I screwed the aluminum stock to the face frame under the cabinets and oriented it so the led strips were facing the wall and one side of the angle stock was facing towards the countertop.

I used a dimmable 12vdc power supply and put it on a standard 120vac dimmer switch. The aluminum acts as a heat sink and when you look down at the glossy counter top, you can't see the leds. Worked pretty well.

Not OP, but these are the ones I have in my living room.

If you don't mind going the DIY route, you could probably come in under $100 for parts for the strips:

• LED Strips - https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-16-4ft-300leds-Waterproof-Flexible/dp/B00KYKEUXO/
  
• Power Supply - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073QTNF9F/
  
• Wifi controller - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DY56N8U/
  
• Extension cable - https://www.amazon.com/LEDENET-Extension-Cable-Color-ribbon/dp/B00J4HI746/
  
• Snap-on Connectors - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CNYZ0NW/
  
• Channel for mounting - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LL2SLME/
  
  Instead of the flat channel, you might be better off with angled channel for mounting the strips above the cabinets, since they'll throw more light on the wall, which is what you'll actually see - https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Aluminum-Mounting-Installations-1901-V/dp/B00PJSSD7K/
  
  There's a ZWave RGBW controller but it's more expensive than the wifi one and can take some more configuration: https://www.amazon.com/Fibaro-Micro-Controller-Z-wave-Strips/dp/B00P1N68FW/
  
  If you get the snap-on connectors, I recommend putting a small amount of solder on all of the pads where you'll be connecting them on the strips, so that they make a good connection.
  
  As for the puck lights, you could probably get something like this and wire the distributor to the wifi/ZWave controller, instead of plugging it into the controller it comes with: https://www.amazon.com/Changing-Christmas-Furniture-Ambiance-Lighting/dp/B01N2I47VH/ref=sr_1_2

If $32 is breaking your bank you're going to be in for a world of pain with rocketry.

https://www.amazon.com/80-20-Inc-T-Slotted-Extrusion/dp/B001F0K4KA

I used these. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCS0WE8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They come with a small clip/bracket that you screw into the wall, then the rail snaps into it. Is a great look, they are easy to cut into whatever size you might need with a typical handsaw. And they diffuse the light really well so that you don't see points as much. Totally worth it, and way better than the factory tape.


I think the factory tape is only good to get a general sense of your look, what you think it should look like, and allow you to reposition. Then use these rails, and you will be very happy.

That was a goal, actually - I designed all of the parts and fittings to stay fully inside the extrusion frame, so it would be easy to enclose with simple flat panels on the exterior faces if I ever feeling like doing so.

You basically need all the vitamins for a Prusa i2 w/ LM8UUs, plus:

8020 parts:

3x 6' 10-series extrusion (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001F0K4KA/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

8x 4136 4-HOLE INSIDE CORNER GUSSET (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001IA6QL8/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

50x screws + nut plates (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006ZCM6MC/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1)


Additional hardware:

2x 8mm x 406mm smooth Z rods (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045DWAAG/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Printed parts

6x Rod holders (http://i.imgur.com/zk1gQLL.jpg)

1x X end (left) (http://i.imgur.com/7ToxJYT.jpg)

1x X end (right) (http://i.imgur.com/biE91KZ.jpg)

1x Z mount (left) (http://i.imgur.com/1hG4Wcr.jpg)

1x Z mount (right) (same, mirrored)

1x Y motor mount (http://i.imgur.com/jxyyNFa.jpg)

1x Y idler (http://i.imgur.com/QA9YvNy.jpg)

1x X carriage (http://i.imgur.com/LDBBF19.jpg)

1x X carriage belt clamp (http://i.imgur.com/ecbn6lq.jpg)

4x Y-axis LM8UU holders (http://i.imgur.com/HTFFC6S.jpg)

1x Y-axis belt clamp (http://i.imgur.com/MiQYodU.jpg)

1x RAMPs platform (http://i.imgur.com/klYRoBX.jpg)

These channels fit 2nd gen lightstrip almost perfectly!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCS0WE8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I put in Hue lightstrips under my kitchen cabinets. I highly recommend installing them in diffusers. They help soften the light, but more importantly they make for a very clean looking install. I used these ones: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCS0WE8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dYoQDbQ7HADKX

The connectors made by this company are also very useful for splitting and joining strips together: https://litcessory.com (also available on Amazon)

No. You'd need aluminum powder. That link goes to Aluminum Oxide. It's exactly like the difference between iron and rust.

This, on the other hand...

You can buy aluminum conduit with a diffuser included as well. Here's one. I like OP's idea, I might buy some myself.

I'm just gonna have to start recommend this to everyone with LEDs lining their ceiling. LED TRACK WITH DIFFUSER
It improves the look by 4000% at least, and is much easier on the eyes than bare diodes.

i wonder why they used such a deep channel?

was it 8mm wide for regular LED strips? that'd be a PITA to mount the strips into such a deep channel.

i've got some 5/8" deep channels i'll be (attempting) to do the same thing with, for closet and vanity lighting.

none of the fancy cris-crossing, just 36" straight pieces.

https://www.amazon.com/Litever-Aluminum-Channels-Recessed-Screws-LL-007-B/dp/B01IY1L0V4/

I used these as they defuse the led and screw into place

Similar but slightly different, I went with these. Two of those fit a single light strip just about perfectly.

Parts list (Part 2) from the imgur post:

>- 1x Coleman 6' 3-Prong Power Cable: $6 . 97 shipped with Prime (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OOMN88/)
>
>This cable is advertised as a replacement cable for power tools but it's been working fine to power the Mean Well power supply. 14AWG stranded wire rated to 1875W.
>
>- 1x 6-Pack 1m Litever Deep Square Trimless Aluminum Channels (LL-007-A): $49 . 99 shipped on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Litever-Aluminum-Channels-Trimless-Mounting/dp/B01IY1L2B2)
>
>Solid channels overall, the white diffuser does a pretty good job of diffusing the hotspots from the individual LEDs. If I wanted a more perfect line of light, I would've gone with something a deeper than these but they are 15 . 5mm tall and the lip on my cabinets is .75" (19 . 05mm) so anything much larger and it would've stuck out which I wasn't looking to do.
>
>- 1x 50' roll of Southwire 18/7 thermostat wire: $26 . 12+tax at Home Depot (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-50-ft-18-7-Brown-Solid-CU-CL2-Thermostat-Wire-64170422/205717551)
>
>I don't really recommend going this route, it caused more of a headache than it was worth. Basically, I'd received all of the other parts and then realized the only wire I had lying around was 24awg so I went out to see what I could get locally. Solid core wire has its pros and cons but I learned pretty quickly that soldering it directly to the LED strips wasn't going to be a viable option because the solid core wire was so rigid that when I bent it, it'd rip the LED strip more often than not. I'd advise sticking with 18awg if you're planning on doing an amplified run like this but stranded wire will make your life a lot easier. That said, it worked and I'm not planning on changing it.
>
>- 1x Gardner Bender 22-10 AWG 6-Circuit Terminal Block: $6 . 28+tax at Home Depot (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-22-10-AWG-6-Circuit-Terminal-Block-1-Pack-GTB-406/202522482)
>
>Literally everything else in this setup is soldered, I'm not a fan of using connectors when I don't have to but for modularity's sake, I used a terminal block for the 3 sections of under cabinet strips. It was cheap, quick and I bought it when I got the thermostat wire.
>
>- 3x Gardner Bender 1/2" Plastic Kwik Clip, White (4-Pack): $3 . 28+tax for each 4-Pack at Home Depot (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-1-2-in-Plastic-Kwik-Clip-White-4-Pack-GKK-1550/100090966)
>
>Used for cable management, they work fine. Probably could've gone with something a bit more professional but I wasn't trying to make this project any more expensive than it already was.
>
>- 1x Scotch 1" x 1 . 66 yards Extremely Strong Mounting Tape: $7 . 98+tax at Home Depot (https://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Scotch-1-in-x-1-66-yds-Permanent-Double-Sided-Extreme-Mounting-Tape-414DC-SF/203405976)
>
>I probably used 2/3 of the roll. None of the aluminum channels where particularly heavy so I just placed a 2" piece every 6 inches or so. Holding up great so far. I could've used the mounting gear that came with the channels for the cabinets but I didn't want to make any permanent holes and I knew that I'd need something like this for under the granite countertop on the island anyway.
>
>
>
>Total cost for everything listed above was roughly $495 including tax and shipping.
>
>
>
>Stuff I had lying around:
>
>- Assorted sizes of heat shrink tubing
>
>- Assorted sizes of ring terminals
>
>- Solder
>
>- Hot glue
>
>- Electrical tape
>
>- Zip ties
>
>- Rubbing alcohol (to prep surfaces for the adhesives)
>
>- Hue Dimmer Switch

​

I have used the RGB led strips that you linked to. I currently have them under my cabinets. They have been there for over a year now and working just fine. I will make one suggestion if you are going this route. The double sided tape that is on these led strips do not hold up well. I would recommend using these housings just to make it look more professional and not worry about the double sided tape giving out.
Led Strip channel

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCS0WE8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_Y15XDb0DV7TXP

Eat to cut, looks great, would buy again.

DIY technique would be use parchment paper but for a cleaner approach you could use something like this

Try looking for something similar but shorter for your use case.

Are the LED strips laid out relatively straight? Because if so the easiest solution is to just encase them in something. They sell Aluminum Channel for LEDs, like this: https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Aluminum-Mounting-Installations-1902-U/dp/B00PJSUZSK/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00PJSUZSK&pd_rd_r=REHQ9GGMNA7XK7GZ8S12&pd_rd_w=gycAr&pd_rd_wg=Q27T8&psc=1&refRID=REHQ9GGMNA7XK7GZ8S12

That example might not be durable enough for your application, but something along those lines would definitely be better than just an exposed strip. I have used it before and the plastic is fairly durable and flexible so hopefully it wouldn't crack from impact.

This was a long time coming, as I was making do with a shitty L shaped desk in my shed and some poorly supported shelves for years. I didn't have enough room to spread out complex projects and my tool storage was non-existent. Further I was constantly hitting my legs on the desk and it was too low; thus hard on my back.

As I had a 10' long back area, I wanted a wall supported work bench with shelves of test equipment and storage above it. The rubber maid twin rack was ideal as it would go into the wall studs and was avialbe in up to 24" deep support arms.

I stacked a countertop on this and it was perfect for working on. Heat resistant and cheap enough to replace if it gets damaged. The best part is no supports under it to hit my knees on. I did add some small reinforcing 1" wide strips under it to distribute the load.

Protip: when installing the shelves and countertop, leave a 1.5" space from the wall to the shelf as this will allow cords/coax to go behind it and space to tilt the whole thing up if need be and remove/reposition it.

Also the Grip Rite screws are fucking awesome. I used a electric torque driver to put them in and the star drive prevents torque out like with the phillips screws. I'll never use the old phillips wood screws again.

During all this I got a cheap tool box from harbor freight and solved my tool organization problems once and for all. I installed some channel with double sided tape under the shelves and put RGB LED strip lights under them.

I'm very happy with the almost 10' of work space now, it's such a step up from my 50" wide desk.

You can also order sheet metals from [Amazon] (http://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Precision-Ground-Tolerance-Thickness/dp/B00CNLV7BK/ref=sr_1_8?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1377567087&sr=1-8) now. I used this on my LC for a while before switching back to directly printing on the heated bed. You should be able to get it in whatever dimensions you need.

There's also channels with diffusers for mounting LED tape strips. I just bought these to mount strips in my teardrop trailer galley.

One of the accessories for these channels is a longer clip that lets you join two sections. I think I also saw a corner clip.

It is not that hard to do it yourself with alum tube and connectors. All you need is a saw to cut. No welding. I imagine welding would be cheaper as the connectors can get expensive. There was a post about using steel tubing and welding. Interesting idea. I don't know how to weld but to have a welder make a simple bed frame apparently is not too expensive.

META: From a Professional welder, please consider using metal for your built rather than wood. It's smaller, lighter (per unit of strength) and won't creak.

https://www.reddit.com/r/vandwellers/comments/6pql3y/meta_from_a_professional_welder_please_consider/

Aluminum 80/20 Inc., 1010, 10 Series, 1" x 1" T-Slotted Extrusion x 97"

https://www.amazon.com/80-20-Inc-T-Slotted-Extrusion/dp/B001F0F112/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502713897&sr=8-2&keywords=extruded+aluminum+t+slot

I'm no pro, but here's my suggstion.

Marking and measuring are important. Get a knife of some sort. This marking knife is cheap and well regarded. Get a combination square (lot available at all sorts of price points). For a longer straight edge, you can use extruded aluminum or angle aluminum which is cheap, lightweight, and straight enough. Then learn to create a knife edge and a handsaw (either western push style, or japanese pull style) and you can cut wood accurately to size.

You're planes will then get you to flatten and surface your boards (you can use the aluminum as winding sticks). Lots of resources available for rehabbing planes. Then the next step is joints. For this, chisels and a comfortable mallet are great (and a rabbet plane if you can find/afford one). To make life easier, a coping saw and a drill (electric or brace and bit) can clear out waste for you. It makes life easier. But the key here is keeping your planes and chisels sharp. I don't know of a budget way to do this. I've got a few Ezelap diamond stones (coarse, fine and extra fine) that I use, but there are other methods as well (sandpaper on glass, waterstones, oil stones, tormeks). But sharpening is critical to handtool woodworking happiness. You might want a sharpening guide as well. The cheap ones work great (I'm not sure why these are so expensive. I think I paid $8 for mine). Then build one of these and you're all set for sharpening. Finally, you need stuff to stick together, so glue and glue applicators are worth looking into. I also use my cabinet scrapers quite a bit, but that's just me. They're cheap so I think everyone should have one.

After that, you can spend all sorts of money on other stuff as you progress. But most anything square can be built with this setup.

best... no clue, havent tried them all

​

what I used

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075YS3THJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076HCXHT2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Muzata-Aluminum-Mounting-Installations-Diffuser/dp/B01M09PBYX/

​

Im pleased, the wifi control works with alexa to go on as scheduled, retains its setting if you flip the power by a switch. The lights are bright enough, the track diffuses the light, I mounted it at a 45degree angle under the cabinets, though I probably could have bought a track made for that.

​

However, my one gripe is that the LEDs have a noticable flicker to them sometimes... not sure if its the PSU, controller, or LEDs. They dont all do it though, so thats strange.

​

Hue just looked ridiculously expensive for the same thing... there were even complaints about its quality, which for $100+ should not be a concern.

I didn't want my strips just glued on so I used these strips:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCS0WE8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

While it is a bunch of extra work cutting and attaching these, once done the install is not ever going to fall apart.

Added bonus: the diffuser actually makes the light better in my opinion as it decreases the visibility of each light's reflection on the counter.

I used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HRHDV1T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for strips, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071FRFQVZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for light diffusion, and the board is just a piece of large plywood I cut a little larger than the star pattern and painted black with two layers of spray paint. I applied polyurethane sealer on top to give it a clean finish. It has a wire on the back so I can move it around the house.

Sorry, I meant the following products (examples):
https://www.elementalled.com/products/diode-led/aluminum-led-strip-light-channels.html
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCS0WE8
Basically you enclose the bare ledstrip in an aluminum profile with a (semi) transparant cover of choice so the strip itself is protected and glued one time only. You only have to mount the profile itself so therefore it's easier to move the profile than to undo the glueing.

I tried several different brands. If your countertop is glossy you will see the lights with or without a diffuser. These fit perfectly:

Litever 6-Pack 3.3ft/1 Meter 9x18mm U Shape Aluminum Channels With Diffuser, End Caps and Mounting Clips LED Strip Channels for Max 16mm Wide LED Lightstrip Light Mounting--LL-007-M https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCS0WE8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6IlKAbJYC67EG

Correct...typo, ws2812b.

LEDs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BGSZLGX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

NodeMCU:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010N1SPRK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Diffuser:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M09PBYX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2A power adapter (x2):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0777HWN87/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

someone posted a link to these a few days ago, i bookmarked it but dont remember what redditor posted originally... you might be able to use these on the ceiling and put the strips in. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCS0WE8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use these aluminum rails for my LED strips https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PJSUZSK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Easy to mount, diffuse the light nicely.

Not OP but mine were too bright, and reflected off the granite countertop which wasnt great. I got some of these to mount them which helped though they arent cheap. I'd recommend warm white instead of cool as well.

http://www.amazon.com/Non-Coated-Ammonium-Nitrate-34-0-0-Fertilizer/dp/B00O6EY5BG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458036582&sr=8-1&keywords=ammonium+nitrate

http://www.amazon.com/Pounds-Aluminum-Powder-30-micron/dp/B00KF598X0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458036592&sr=8-1&keywords=aluminum+powder

I used these, there are lots of size and positioning options if you search amazon...

https://www.amazon.com/Litever-Aluminum-Channels-Lightstrip-Mounting-LL-007-M/dp/B01NCS0WE8/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1543432240&sr=8-10&keywords=hue+light+strip+diffuser

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071FRFQVZ

I have 50 meters of this under the soffit on my house. It’s not a good choice for that much because wiring entry points don’t exist, but would be a lot better for indoors. It’s pretty small. Just barely fits the width of 10-12mm LED tape. Check the list of sponsored related products for other designs, including a really nice looking corner piece under the muzata brand.

I have retrofitted two kitchens with LED under cabinet lighting, both before tiling the backsplash, each at a cost under $100 USD. The first has been going strong for almost 10 years.

First, IMO under cabinet lighting is task lighting. It doesn't need to be dimmable and doesn't need to be RGB, just go with a warm or cool temperature depending on your preference.

This is what I suggest - I assume you are in the U.S...

1. Run 18AWG Low Voltage LED Cable 2 Conductor Jacketed in-Wall Wire from the back of a selected base cabinet through the wall(s) to each contiguous span of upper cabinets. These wires can terminate in a small box in, or under, the cabinet. The wiring also can be daisy-chained if needed. For example, a wire can be used to connect cabinet spans that are separated by a small distance, say by a range hood.
   
2. Wire a switched 110v outlet into the same base cabinet. This only needs to be operated by a single switch,, probably over the counter, or near an entrance to the kitchen area.
   
3. Use LED 5050 Flexible Strip Lights, Warm White 3000K 16.4ft 300 LEDs (or whatever color temp you prefer) inside Litever 6-Pack 3.3ft/1 Meter 9x18mm U Shape Aluminum Channels with Diffuser cut at custom lengths to match the widths of cabinet spans. These should be mounted at the front of the cabinet and a small wiring channel used to hide the wiring under the cabinet were it runs from front to back.
   
4. Drive the LED strips by a LEDwholesalers 12-Volt DC Waterpoof LED Power Suppply Driver Transformer with 3-Prong Plug, 60W, 3204-12V (or something similar) mounted in the base cabinet with the low-voltage wiring and switched outlet.
   
   I used these items. This setup is simple and inexpensive, any one component can be replaced easily if it fails, and it can be controlled by a smart switch of your choice.
   
   If you want mood lighting, then you can wire 110v outlets above the cabinets and use one, or two of Philips - Hue Play White & Color Ambiance Smart LED Bar Light to shine on the ceiling, or use Philips Hue bulbs in your recessed light cans.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071FRFQVZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZxODDbZQFCMN8

These(or similar) with this over it! Make it flush with the ceiling on one side or all sides of the room. You could also get a flat version of that to put along floorboards in hallways, and all you'd need to keep it up is some small screws. That's all I can do to help!

Either that of you could just find some paper lantern covers for your lights and put them on each bulb.

I haven't flown or driven in VR on a motion sim, but have flown full-motion 6dof sims and the motion really does add to the sensations.

I keep thinking about building my own 6dof sim but was stopped by the power draw until I figured out I could charge batteries and then run the motion motors off them. Totally takes out the peak loads and still lets you run with powerful motors for the bumps and shakes.

I was thinking of going with this kind of structural aluminum (https://amzn.com/B001F0F112) since they have all sorts of lengths, it would be easy to cut, lots of fittings and brackets, and ideal to bolt stuff to.

There are also chairs available from a company that instead of rocking and tilting just apply pressure with boards and such to simulate G forces. Unlike 6dof chairs, they can apply the pressure and hold it for extended forces like driving around a skid pad. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PzwfRqSbLzo)

I'm still trying to decide which is the better way to go overall since neither is perfect. This one is about the closest to perfect I've seen but doubt my wife or bank would let me build it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cJCsomGwdk0

Really recommend getting these too: https://www.amazon.com/Muzata-Aluminum-Mounting-Installations-Diffuser/dp/B01M09PBYX

Helps mount to the bottom of the cabinet and the cover will diffuse the light a bit for a nicer look, especially if you have reflective countertops.

Litever 6-Pack 3.3ft/1 Meter 9x18mm U Shape Aluminum Channels With Diffuser, End Caps and Mounting Clips LED Strip Channels for Max 16mm Wide LED Lightstrip Light Mounting--LL-007-M https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCS0WE8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_taa_JwoJAbT72Z211

I had undercabinet florescent with power coming directly into them, and I replaced them with a combination of led strip lighting, diffusers and individual power supplies. Then I changed the switch to a GE z-wave. Here's a list of the products I used:

Power Supply: ($14 x 3)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017R17YQC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LED Lights: ($8) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF64JG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Diffusers: ($26)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PJSUZSK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Zwave Switch (now they are $38, but I got some on clearance for $21)

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Required-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1519156674&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=ge+zwave&psc=1

All in all I replaced lighting under the three main cabinets and the total cost was under $100. I'm not sure it was the best way to do it, but it works! For my application dimming wasn't what I was looking for, but I think you could swap out some parts for the dimmable versions.

You can buy led strip lights on a roll, typically 5 meters in length. Just add a 12V or 24V power supplies and you’re good to go. You can also get channels with diffusers if you don’t want the slight strips naked on the ceiling: https://www.amazon.com/hunhun-Aluminum-Mounting-Installations-Installation/dp/B07F923CXW/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=Led+strip+channel&qid=1570649815&sr=8-6

I've made some out of aluminum sheets, and used expanded aluminum for the front and top of them:

https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Expanded-Sheet-Unpolished-Finish/dp/B00CNLVB3E

Cost me about $25 -$30 in metal, and the fab time. On the other hand, they'll last 'till the end of time......

Probably have to just search on Amazon, but I found one at least that reviews say fits it: http://amazon.com/Litever-Aluminum-Channels-Lightstrip-Mounting-LL-007-M/dp/B01NCS0WE8/

This company also seems to have a bunch that might be higher quality than the generic chinese ones on Amazon: https://www.solidapollo.com/led-strip-profiles/

It's unavailable, https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B010QBL740/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And if you're in the states, good luck on Amazon, I couldn't find the exact same thing and the names are crazy, chanel, channeling, u shape, profile, track, like, jesus christ make your mind up people.

https://www.amazon.com/3-3FT-Aluminum-Channel-Track-installation/dp/B01MPWVE3E/ref=sr_1_91?ie=UTF8&qid=1519837459&sr=8-91&keywords=aluminum+led+channel

https://www.amazon.com/Litever-Aluminum-Channels-Trimless-Mounting/dp/B01IY1L2B2/ref=sr_1_174_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1519837521&sr=8-174-spons&keywords=aluminum+led+channel&psc=1

That's what I'd aim for, you want depth.

I personally did this research recently and opted out of RGB and for high CRI strips that are very bright but very dimmable. Total cost was not as cheap as I had originally expected, but the end concept seems like it will come together well. Here's my equipment list (though in my case i've purchased multiple strips):

​

|16.5 ft 95 CRI Warm LED Strip|$99.00|https://store.waveformlighting.com/products/ultra-high-95-cri-led-strip-lights-for-home-residential?variant=5776159014941 |
|:-|:-|:-|
|24V 10A Power Supply|$19.99|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078RYWZMH/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AA0YO4F2UD50F&psc=1 |
|20 pack 3.3 ft Alu Channel|$46.90|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072VZSQ3P/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=AN8BOPYGQ9JVK&psc=1 |
|Shelly RGBW 2 Controller|$21.99|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N49TXLQ/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=AFXZFGKJMX9E4&psc=1 |

​

This allows me to control four separate white strips with on/off and dimming capabilities but does not accommodate for a physical switch, though it easily could be incorporated into this setup.

You could probably stand on that aluminum, but that's really expensive. Take a look at these:

https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Expanded-Sheet-Unpolished-Finish/dp/B00CNLVB3E

Interesting, thanks. The Klus looks expensive and maybe needs a more extensive mounting?

So these look about right?

https://www.amazon.com/DOME-SHAPED-Profile-Aluminum-Dome-Shaped-Applications/dp/B017WTJ02K/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1494108415&sr=1-1-catcorr

https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Channels-Diffuser-Lightstrip-Mounting-LL-007-M/dp/B01NCS0WE8/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1494108486&sr=8-1-fkmr2

Yeah, or at the very least the friend should pick up some diffuser channels. Something like this. Exposed LEDs just look cheap.

You might consider putting it in a diffuser. i.e Diffuser

Ok sooo... I just googled around for "frosted acrylic" as you suggested, and I did learn some things. On price, for the 4 sq ft of FA I'd need for my project, I'm looking at ~$20 for the sheet. Most offered are X by 2X dimensions, eg 24" x 48", so I'm pricing off roughly half of that.

And that's for one big piece that I'll need to cut and mount up somehow. Which I'd be willing to do if it was super cheap. However....while googling stuff this morning on your search term suggestions, I discovered THIS product on Amazon. This is absolutely perfecto for what I'm wanting to do, which is to mount the LED strips at the top corner of my 11.5' x 11.5' apartment living room area, encircling the room. These rails are V-shaped, with an inside mounting surface that will orient the LEDs at a 45-deg angle to both ceiling and walls. This is even better than the typical rails I've been seeing which all mount flat to the surface and face the LEDs straight out. Which would be ok, but the 45-deg downward angle of this new thing is perfect for lighting up the room from the top corner.

Price: Seller is selling these 1-meter/3.3' rails in 6-packs for $18.59. That's just right to do 2 walls' worth of rails since each wall is 11.5'. 3 m is just shy of 10', so splitting the difference on either end will leave like 10" of bare wall on both sides which is fine. Two 6-packs of rails then will be 18.59 x 2 = $37.18. This is slightly less than 2x the cost of the raw sheet of frosted acrylic, but for the already-fabricated rails, plus the nifty V-shaped design and ideal 45-deg angle, springing the extra $17 immediately becomes a no-brainer.

TLDR: Thanks u/lasserith! You definitely helped me get to the best answer for my little DIY project here, even though it wasn't the answer I had originally been looking for. Life's like that sometimes isn't it :)

https://www.amazon.com/Muzata-Aluminum-Mounting-Installations-Diffuser/dp/B01M09PBYX/

These would fix that and help diffuse the light better

cough I checked UK because that's where I am, but that stuffs cheaper and easier to get in the US!

If the 100 watt 4.5 pound flexible panels are used, AL expanded metal can be attached to the 80/20 framework to support the panels.

I just used diffuser strips on a custom shelf I made and it helps a little bit.

Litever 6-Pack 1M/3.3ft Wide Recess Embeded Aluminum LED Channels with Oyster Diffuser Covers End Caps Mounting Clips for Max 18mm Wide LED Strip Mouning -LL-007-WR-[6 Pack]

hunhun 10-Pack 6.6ft/ 2Meter Plus-Size U Shape LED Aluminum Channel System with Milky Cover, End Caps and Mounting Clips, Aluminum Profile for LED Strip Light, Special for Philips Hue Strip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V499JHN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vMT1DbYV7922F

These are great. I used these for generic led strips at my house.

Muzata LED Channel System with Milky White Cover Lens,Silvery Aluminum Extrusion Profile Housing Diffuser Track for Strip Tape Light with Video Guide 12PACK 1M/3.3FT U Shape U1SW https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074WN3CMY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1q96Cb3BBZK4Q

Easy, buy these two items for a total of 45 bucks and you have the ingredients for tannerite. Fun stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/Dynarex-Instant-Cold-Inches-24-Count/dp/B004CQ5NUK/

https://www.amazon.com/Pounds-Aluminum-Powder-30-micron/dp/B00KF598X0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1512053748&sr=8-1&keywords=powdered+aluminum

On Amazon I bought some of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0721744QQ

My lightstrips were Sylvania, not Hue (I now regret that decision) but these quarter-round diffusers have worked perfectly. I used rubbing alcohol on them before adhering the strips to them. I also mounted them to the front of the cabinets behind the lip so the lights face the counter and backsplash - that way, if you're sitting in an adjacent room and you're low enough able to see the bottoms of the upper cabinets, you still don't see the lights themselves.

I decided to route around the microwave and no regrets there. I actually used the outlet in the cabinet above the microwave as the power source, so there are no visible wires anywhere with my installation. I then used splitters to route lights left and right from there. Hope this helps.

There are holders (LED Channel) meant for holding LED strips. You can get flat or angled holders.

https://www.amazon.com/hunhun-Aluminum-Mounting-Installations-Installation/dp/B071FRFQVZ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?

OP, 80/20 (and some other vendors make this) is for sale on amazon in a lot of different sizes. The call it the "industrial Erector set." Here is one

Look around for aluminum square tube stock. The big box stores would be a start to get your hands on it easily but thier supply is meager and expensive. Perhaps welding supply shops? Hell, might even be able to find it on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/80-20-Inc-T-Slotted-Extrusion/dp/B001F0F112/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?keywords=aluminum+tube+stock&qid=1564780297&s=gateway&sprefix=Aluminum+tube+stock&sr=8-11

You can weld it or use fasteners. Cutting can be done with wood saws using the correct blade and normal safety procedures.

Sorry I don't have personal recommendation because I don't have a battlestation myself or even a proper bedroom yet. Trying to move really soon here and start remedying that. I just lurk this sub in the meantime to get ideas on what I'm gonna do when I finally move.

Found these though and they seem to have good reviews. But I don't know if they work for the type of lights you have or not so I guess you need to do a bit of research on that.

Amazon sells various types of metal plates that are precision ground. Here's aluminum in various thicknesses and square sizes. Here's steel. Pieces of thick plate glass can probably be had for pretty cheap if you have a glass shop nearby. Amazon's plate glass can be kind of expensive. If you can find someone tossing out an older 35-55gal fishtank you might be able to salvage a piece of glass from either the front or the back. Don't bother with the piece that makes the bottom as that will be tempered. Newer tanks in those sizes have thinner glass but it might still be serviceable.