Best analitycal reagents according to redditors

This is getting pricey:

Solution A:

• Potassium Iodate $40 (this is for 100g and the video calls for 43g).
  
• Sulfuric acid $20 I don't think this is concentrated enough to do the trick. This might be a showstopper since, even if I could get ahold of a higher concentration, I've heard too many horror stories about working with undiluted sulfuric acid that I may just want to pass.
  
  Solution B:
  
  
• Corn Starch $8
  
• Malonic Acid $10
  
• Manganese Sulfate Monohydrate $15
  
  Solution C:
  
  
• Hydrogen Peroxide $17
  
  
  And distilled water is a couple bucks per gallon at the grocery store. Looking at around $100, and that is assuming I get all the ingredients right the first time and don't have to reorder any of this and ruin some of my ingredients in the process. Many of the ingredients will have leftovers, but the potassium Iodate seems pretty expensive for such a small amount that I'll use half of just to make one batch.
  
  EDIT: Not too surprisingly, it seems like the acids and peroxides I've listed may not be nearly concentrated enough to do the trick.
  
  EDIT2: Updated hydrogen peroxide link to a 35% concentration instead of first aid style which is 2-3%.

Here's the 2014 Water Quality Report. It's a good read.

The bulk of the water testing takes place directly at the 3 major water facilities in SD. As you may already know the lead contamination in Flint did not happen at the water treatment facility, but rather in the pipes that lead to homes. The city inadvertently changed the water pH and failed to add an additive that would prevent the old pipes from corroding.

The way the city of San Diego test for these metals is by sampling the water in 50 homes. According to their results, we are good and the water is safe. If you want to do your due diligence, buy one of these cheap drinking water tests that include testing for iron, lead and copper among other things.

I did, and confirmed some of their results.


-----------


EDIT 2: Perchlorate is more of a health concern, and it's not mentioned on the report. Is it regulated by the city?

• Perchlorate is a salt (ClO4^−) that is naturally occurring in SD; and also a byproduct of military rocket fuel, and fireworks. It affects the thyroid gland can decrease production of thyroid hormones.
  
  
• California EPA reports peak concentrations in San Diego that average 9.9μg/L. MCL is currently 1μg/L and was lowered from 6μg/L a couple of years ago.
  
  
• EPA - Perchlorate Fact Sheet 2014
  
  
  EDIT: Lead and copper results from 2014.
  
  
  > Lead and Copper:
  >
  > Lead and copper enter drinking water primarily through plumbing materials. Exposure
  > to lead and copper may cause health problems ranging from stomach distress to brain
  > damage. In 1991, the EPA published the Lead and Copper Rule to control lead and copper
  > in drinking water. The rule requires us to monitor drinking water at customer taps. If
  > lead concentrations exceed an action level of 15 ppb or copper concentrations exceed an
  > action level of 1.3 ppm in more than 10 percent of taps sampled, i.e. the 90th percentile,
  > we would be required to undertake a number of additional actions to inform the public
  > and control corrosion.
  >
  > In 2014, 57 customers provided samples from their taps to the City of San Diego for lead
  > and copper analysis. The results of these tests are presented here; for each parameter,
  > one of the 57 sites had a result above the Action Level. Because less than 10 percent of
  > our results were above the Action Levels for Lead and Copper, no additional actions are required.
  > Lead and Copper Rule monitoring must be conducted every three years – our next
  > study will be conducted in 2017.
  >
  > If present, elevated levels of lead can cause serious health problems, especially for pregnant
  > women and young children. Lead in drinking water is primarily from materials and components
  > associated with service lines and home plumbing. The City of San Diego is responsible for
  > providing high quality drinking water, but cannot control the variety of materials used in
  > plumbing components. When your water has been sitting for several hours, you can minimize
  > the potential for lead exposure by flushing your tap for 30 seconds to two minutes before
  > using water for drinking or cooking. If you are concerned about lead in your water, you may
  > wish to have your water tested. Information on lead in drinking water, testing methods, and
  > steps you can take to minimize exposure is available from the Safe Drinking Water Hotline or
  > at epa.gov/safewater/lead

Test your water for lead if you are worried about it. That's really the result you care about. There may be small sections of pipe or solder that contaminate the water even if you don't have large sections of lead pipe.

https://smile.amazon.com/First-Alert-WT1-Drinking-Water/dp/B000FBMAVQ/ref=pd_sim_79_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BNCFD5MHAKWG0RD9Z30X

It cost like $15 to buy a water test. I drink a lot of unfiltered water so I got one. The test said I'm all good. Worth buying and seeing if you should invest in some type of filtration system.

Is there a problem with me just buying this and experimenting with different oils to see what works better?

Edit: This would probably look better wouldn't it...

Amazon sells well water test kits. Tests for a number of things - lead and other metals, bacteria, etc.

Edit: I think this is the one I used.

They also sell lab chemicals https://www.amazon.com/Reagent-Grade-Sodium-Bromide-500g-Collection/dp/B07JDH4KX2/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=Sodium+bromide+chemistry&qid=1558049003&s=gateway&sr=8-7 , but I would shop around more. I only did a quick search.

As far as using pool chemicals I'm not sure.

Might be worth doing a test of your water. Any alarming results could be taken to Public Works to hopefully find a solution to the problem.

https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-WT1-Drinking-Water/dp/B000FBMAVQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1540909874&sr=8-4&keywords=tap+water+test+kit

This one's worked fine for me in the past, it gave me no false positives. I knew I could trust it because the region in which my old houses were located was notorious for its incredibly hard water, and that was the only factor for which my results came back as positive.

You left out a critical ingredient.

Well, IF the brass used has lead in it (not all brass does, and it is used less and less in brass) the small amount of mineral scale tends to form a nice barrier preventing it leaching into the water. A few flushes should work. If you are worried, test it. https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-WT1-Drinking-Water/dp/B000FBMAVQ/ref=sr_1_3/141-8508703-2370814?ie=UTF8&qid=1502944258&sr=8-3&keywords=water+lead+test+kit

Alright here we go

1. The acid can either be muriatic ferric chloride. Ferric chloride being far safer and much much more common. Dip it and let it sit in the acid for 30 minutes. Take it out and spray it with windex or something else to neutralize the acid. Sand it lightly after with very high grit if you’d like a lighter finish don’t if you’d like a darker finish.
   
   2 i get my ferric chloride off Amazon
   Here’s the exact stuff I use MG Chemicals 415 Ferric Chloride Copper Etchant Solution, 945mL Liquid Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T8Y20W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cw1lDbFSXD42R
   
   3 usually people use ceramic “pellets” but basically anything hard will work the bigger harder and sharper the stones or bits are the tougher the finish.
   
   4 for the stoning part take the blade and stick it into a vibratory tumbler or a rock tumbler I believe with some water for how ever long. Longer is more scratches less time is a less scratched look. The tumbler can be found for about $55 at harbor freight https://www.harborfreight.com/5-lb-metal-vibrator-tumbler-67617.html
   
   
2. Cut the deer antler length wise to get two sides that you can then epoxy and pin onto the handle
   
   A fair price for that would be about $250-$300 but if you get some good fishing spots and because it’s for a buddy I’d charge $200-$225 probably up to you
   
   Hope this helps

Just a heads up since apparently no one here seems to know where to look for Ferric Chloride and has apparently never heard of Amazon.

MG Chemicals 415 Ferric Chloride Liquid, 1 Quart Bottle, Dark Brown https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T8Y20W/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Ma3nxbSXG8SAQ

A liter is $15ish and will go a very very long way with etching knives.

Just be sure you do some research on safe handling. Use plastic containers not metal or glass. And be careful. It's a relatively safe and weak acid. But it's still acid and can hurt you if handled poorly.

http://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-WT1-Drinking-Water/dp/B000FBMAVQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453321747&sr=8-1&keywords=lead+water+test+kit

First Alert WT1 Drinking Water Test Kit. I live in a 100-yr old building with original plumbing so I bought this and tested the water. Everything came out well within EPA standards. Our city water (San Francisco) is among the best in the country so your mileage may vary.

I'm also on a cistern and use commercial whole-house filters in 2 stages. Stage 1 is a "pre-clean" sediment filter and stage 2 is a carbon filter that helps remove cysts and odors. The pre-filtering helps the more expensive carbon filters last longer. I also have an automatic chlorinator and contact tank for added disinfection (could also use UV) and a RO filter for drinking water. The RO is overkill since water tests fine from the tap (good idea to test periodically!), but peace of mind and all. To maintain a good flow rate, I use 2 filters in parallel for each stage (4 total). It's all easily put together with PVC. I don't have first flush and water can get pretty dirty, but after filtering it's very clean and odor free. Filters typically last about 3 months before the pressure drops too low (for 2 people, so maybe 1 month for you?) and have to be replaced. High efficiency sink and shower fittings help reduce water usage and the effects of the lower pressure. I have the pump run up to 60psi to max out the filter life.

• Filter housings - I like the clear ones to see how dirty filters are getting and also shows how much filth the filters are capturing. Might want to pick up a couple extra housings since they need to be cleaned and cleaning is much easier with running water. I also use gasket grease and a filter wrench (they can get tight).
  
  
• Sediment filter - stage 1
  
  
• Carbon filter - stage 2 - The 0.5 micron removes cysts (things that can make you sick like Giardia and Cryptosporidium)
  
  
• Test kit
  
  
• Shower head
  
  
  
  

Thanks. I live in an old building. I basically want to do a test for things that will kill me in the short or long run.

I found this.

https://www.amazon.com/Watersafe-WS425B-Drinking-Water-Test/dp/B00005AUHX

and this

https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-WT1-Drinking-Water/dp/B000FBMAVQ/

Hopefully it's enough.

I realize this sounds crazy considering 99% of tap water is safe to drink (according to the comments in this post). I'd rather be paranoid then dead.

This one, First Alert WT1 Drinking Water Test Kit. The guy at the environmental test company said those kits aren't really sensitive enough to get more than a "that's pretty good" or "that's pretty bad" despite the results you get. He said they tend to be consistent, though, so if you get good results you should be good, and if you get bad results, you should call someone like him. If you get fuzzy results, it comes down to how strongly you feel about getting it officially tested.

Yeah, the "flammable tap water" thing was from up in my area, Weld County. The situation was that all of these folks used well water for their houses, and they had higher-than-normal levels of methane gas in their water. It was a big hit with the local media, but the kerfluffle died out not too long afterwards.

I think you'll find a lot of information if you check out Denver Water's page on Water Quality - they provide information on the treatment process and the results of their tests. You can probably also request the water test results in print (In Greeley, we get them once a year with our water bills).

All in all, I've lived here a long time, and I've never had a problem with our water anywhere. In my opinion, it seems like municipalities in Colorado are much more concerned with water and water quality than in other places in the US I've lived previously. Heck, Coors even advertises that their beer is brewed with fresh "cold Rocky Mountain water"!

Feel safe with your water. If you're still concerned (or want to prove to your mom that the water's safe), you can always buy a water testing kit, although I don't know how accurate or effective they are, never having used one myself.

All? Every store in my area has a water refill station. In my area it's near the coffee section. I'm not sure how much it costs, but it's way cheaper than buying bottled water.

That being said, why not just get water from the tap? If you're worried your water might be unsafe (most likely it's just fine), then test it. A quick search found this affordable test kit, which will tell you if you need to get a more comprehensive test done. Most likely you'll be well within safe standards and can safely use your city water.

Personally, I use a filter at home because I don't like the taste of our water. We have hard water, and there are still traces of something after our water softener. Our water is perfectly safe to drink, but a filter makes it much more palatable, so we use one. It's way cheaper than bottled water and way more convenient.

how about this?

“Drug bad, therefore illegal” IS NOT LOGIC.

Sorry for the caps, but i’m just getting sick of seeing this on this sub. The alcohol industry is worth $1.3 trillion fucking dollars. $1.3 trillion!! And you want to give black market groups this economic opportunity. With this kind of money, cartels would be more powerful than a vast majority of countries. Instead of ruling from the shadows like they do now, corrupting politicians and silently killing opponents, they could just straight up take over countries. Latin america in particular would get straight up annexed. Why is this cool and good to you?

Furthermore, people would start drinking 2m2b. Some context here - ever heard of spice? Synthetic cannabinoids? These are part of a class of drugs called “research chemicals”. Research chemicals are created by overseas scientists (mostly chinese). What they do is take illegal drugs, and slightly tweak them, producing an analogue of the drug that’s also psychoactive. These analogues are technically legal, simply because politicians don’t know about them. And 2m2b is an analogue of ethyl alcohol. And look, you can buy this shit legally, on amazon. $165 for a liter sounds steep, but a mere 3 milliliters will have you drunk for 12 hours. That’s the potency we’re talking. People would be chugging this shit left and right, and because nobody teaches you the potency, a lot would learn the hard way, drinking 2m2b like it’s ethyl alcohol and dying. Why is this cool and good to you?

nice. Tips: you can keep Ferric Chloride solution in a ice cream bucket, i have had mine in one for a few months with no problems. also you can also use a soda bottle for dipping the blade.

For engraving you cant go wrong with a rotary tool as its the easiest way to do engravings. ghaa my engraving tip busted well i was doing the engraving on my latest blade as i developed a makers mark and put it on all my blades. so well I got it on it I screwed up the engraving so I did not do the best i could.

also amazon sells ferric chloride so here's a link: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T8Y20W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For etching resist you can use acrylic paint and I hear you can use electrical tape but have not tried it yet.

As far as you know.

When's the last time you tested your tap water?

Try googling iron sand for sale.
One of the first results

Edit: copied wrong link. Fixed it. This is what I ususally buy.

Naw son. Get this. It's a plant growth hormone. It'll make that grass into a jungle.

I suspect it would be. Kinda in the realm of sweet soy sauce.

I mean, you could just do it yourself. Pure lead is quite easy to obtain, as fishing weights etc, and you just need to grind it to a powder, and then blow torch it, at above 600°C, until you get an off white/beige powder. That's PbO.

Or if you life somewhere that lead naturally occurs, it'll be lead sulfide, which turns into PbO at 1000°C under air.


You obviously don't need much, just a few grams of lead filings would be enough to create 50 mg for a 'safe' taste test.


Once you have the PbO, you should be able to just mix it was glutamic acid in water, and obtain lead (ii) glutamate, analogous to how lead(ii)acetate is formed.




Alternatively, just buy glutamic acid and lead oxide on amzn: glutamic acid

lead II oxide

I used this ferric chloride from Amazon diluted 1:1 with water; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FCF7Z3G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4scuDbP0F9M00

Then I put the blade in a container with some pea gravel and soapy water and shook it for probably 20 minutes.

I don't know how well I can answer your questions, as I'm new to lead issues and abatement. You've probably educated yourself on a lot of what I'm going to say, but I'm going to throw it all in this comment, anyway.

I live in a 110 year old house that is basically a ball of lead. The plumbing had lead joints, the service line is old and lead, the windows have lead, the doors have lead, the walls have lead, and the city is concerned that our water mains are shedding lead. And now, my child has a very slightly elevated lead level. Prompted by her most recent blood test, we are attempting a sensible lead abatement plan for our home.

First, figure out where the lead is. You can pick up water testing kits as well as swabs for surfaces. Once you know where the lead is, you can assess your risk and choose an abatement plan.

For instance, we have a small amount of lead in our water, which is likely a consequence of the service line. We got a bid for replacing it, and that was about $10k, plus the cost of fixing the yard that would be torn up. We went with a 10 year filter for the whole house, and that was about $900 including tax and installation.

Use the surface swabs on your windows that were installed before 1980, and if you have woodwork that was painted white, check that, too. It became popular to paint dark woodwork white in the 50s/60s to brighten up houses, and people used lead paint. We have solid wood doors and a ton of trim that is absolutely smothered in many coats of paint, and sure enough, it's super leady.

With windows, the act of opening and closing the windows can cause friction on the paint, which produces inhalable dust. If your family isn't experiencing significantly elevated lead levels, you have the option to simply wipe down the windows with a damp cloth to remove the dust. If you are more concerned, have the budget, or just want new windows, you can replace them. Check to see if your local municipality has a lead abatement grant for windows. In my city, they offer a $350/window grant to replace windows that test positive for lead (along with a few other qualifiers), and that really puts a dent in that cost.

With other painted surfaces, you're likely to be fine with encapsulation, which is a fancy way of saying painting over it. Lead is only really dangerous if you inhale the dust or eat the chips, so if you paint over it, it can't create dust. This will likely mean that you'll need to do a little scraping, which will obviously create dust, so you need to use a quality mask, and then clean like mad when you are done. Wet mop, dry dusting/sweeping is not good enough.

I'm in the process of restoring the woodwork because I prefer a stained finish, and for all the trim that isn't especially decorative or historically significant, I'm just replacing it. For our lovely doors, I sent them out to be dip stripped because it just wasn't worth the risk of my daughter sucking in all the dust while I removed the paint.

Because I have a young child, I'm not fucking around with lead, but the majority of people with lead paint in their homes are going to be just fine if they don't sand lead paint, carefully wipe up the dust with a wet cloth in areas that have lead paint (like windows), and prime/paint over the lead paint.

Any of the common yard sprays (Cutter's, Ortho, Black Flag, etc.) will kill adult fleas. They are not very tough, and die quickly. It is the young that cause so many problems, because they can number in the millions. Literally. So you need something to break the cycle.

Look at IGR (insect growth regulator) for long term control. They prevent the little bastards from maturing, so there is no next generation:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007WYCYSS

Use these as a one-two punch, and hopefully your problems will disappear by fall, never to return.

2-Methyl-2-butanol, 97.5+%, 100ml (tert-Amyl Alcohol) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D7JWMT2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nKxLAb0SS6ATN


Are there actually toxic impurities? And this is the correct chemical right?

This is the kit http://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-WT1-Drinking-Water/dp/B000FBMAVQ

This kit will let you test for all sorts of common contaminants, including lead.

Yes, there are those but you mentioned filters. I find the big bottles of water to be overwhelmingly more common, and you can just flip a coin as to whether the company that bottles it follow regulations. I'm actually taking this back from meiguo to make sure the company my school buys from is okay, as I've noticed the plastic circles you punch through have become almost too easy to open recently and one was already opened when it was delivered.

First Alert WT1 Drinking Water Test Kit

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FBMAVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_OXL5tb0YNPYD8

https://www.amazon.com/Stain-Kit-Hematoxylin-Ehrlichs-Eosin/dp/B07CJPJP1C/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=lsd+test+kit+ehrlich+reagent&qid=1558066181&s=gateway&sprefix=lsd+test+&sr=8-5

There are test kits you can buy. For example:

http://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-WT1-Drinking-Water/dp/B000FBMAVQ

Make sure you find one that tests for the things that concern you. There are also labs that you can mail water to but I didn't quickly find a link.

one product. https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-WT1-Drinking-Water/dp/B000FBMAVQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468425084&sr=8-2&keywords=lead+testing+strips

How bad are these? http://amzn.com/B000FBMAVQ

Amazon does that too

In a previous water related thread, someone posted this one

You may want to test for lead in
Paint
and Tap Water

Here.

Ah. Test the water?

e: https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-WT1-Drinking-Water/dp/B000FBMAVQ/

Amazon has 10 lbs here. https://www.amazon.com/d/Mulches-Fertilizers-Soils/Black-Iron-Oxide-Natural-Pounds/B008LE63H6

I found this from Alibaba, though it says its pigment, i dont know if they've added anything else. https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/2016-high-quality-iron-oxide-black_60583399767.html?spm=a2700.7735675.normalList.44.SjncO2&s=p

I always get a laugh when I see the "Customers also viewed" section of Palladium Chloride on amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Palladium-Chloride-99-9%25-5-grams/dp/B00CAFE48C/

sassafras oil, p-benzoquinone, methelyne chloride, lye, ... not so much photo-chem supplies :)

I'm not saying buying these would get you arrested, but it's not unreasonable to assume your name/address would be placed on some list that would cause it to pop up bright red on the cops' computer when they look you up. Immediate cause for CD/investigation - no. But can it be used as probable cause for a search warrant? I think so.

I’ve only ever done it on a laboratory scale, so if you’re using a reasonably large tank, I don’t know how well it will work.

You need a gas canister of nitrogen or argon. You can buy one at a local gas supply store like praxair. You might also find one online. Run some hosing from the gas canister to the bottom of your tank and open a steady bubble for 30min or so.

Wikipedia says that ammonium sulfite will consume oxygen from water. I’ve never tried this, but if you don’t mind introducing salts into your water, this may be simpler.

https://www.amazon.com/Ammonium-Sulfite-Monohydrate-97-3-Certified/dp/B00LZ63D16

Here's a simple and cheap one: http://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-WT1-Drinking-Water/dp/B000FBMAVQ/

Here's a more expensive and more complete one: http://www.amazon.com/Watts-Premier-173006-All--Water/dp/B002XISS4C/

https://www.amazon.com/Diethyl-Ether-30ml-Photographic-Applications/dp/B01DS7I24M
Eh not that hard, it's used in photographs.

You poor soul!! I live in the South so any bug (especially fleas) are so out of hand in the summer. My house got infested and I have NO outside animals. This is what I did and it actually worked.

Order some of this and spray it in and around your house: https://www.amazon.com/Pivot-10-IGR-Concentrate-110/dp/B007WYCYSS

Make sure you follow the directions and dilute it. It will come in a tiny bottle (the small size) but it covers a very large area. It ends the life cycle for 6-8 months so they die and will not reproduce anymore. It’s safe around pets and human but is effective.

When I sprayed I also flea bombed with foggers after the Pivot dried. I haven’t had a problem since!

Duda DUD12488 Lye 2lb https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016BAZDKY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GAd6ybWP2YMXM

This is the one I use for pretzels, but won't help much for this weekend.

You don't need a sourdough starter for pretzels though.

Hmm, I'd be shocked if one of us discovered a substance we could get at home that would create an as-of-yet-undiscovered precipitation reaction that would precipitate chloramine out of water! The reaction with citric acid you mentioned, is another one I now remember I've heard. All the points you make are right on, so if you figure something out, let us know! BUT the first step in my mind is finding a way to verify any potential results, so we're back to a cost effective way of measuring chloramine levels in a given water sample.

The cheap test strips for drinking water and aquariums seem to only test for chlorine (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FBMAVQ/)($13), and the expensive ones seem to indicate they CAN be calibrated to check for chloramine (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4TFU1I/) ($1,099). This seems made specifically to test for chloramine, but it's unavailable (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R3EF7ZY/).

I'll bet small quantities of citric acid are fine, and small amount of humic acids are definitely beneficial (humic acid is naturally occurring in compost and is great for soil). How much is too much, idk, since I don't add any directly/intentionally.

I think you're right, my chemistry is the suck sometimes.

Black iron oxide is pretty cheap too. Amazon has that for 20 bucks for five pounds with free shipping.

Got ya, fam.

That'll be the premade solution to start you off. A good rule of thumb would be to buy 3 of those (~150 days worth) and see how you get on with them. If you find that you're seeing decent results, then you can buy the raw powder on that website and start making it yourself at home. Derek from MorePlatesMoreDates has some pretty good write-ups on how to make your own RU solutions, one of which involves minoxidil as the main vehicle.

And no prob. I'd imagine that this would definitely be a useful boost to your regimen.

BONUS TIP: If you really wanna enhance your RU solution, you can add in some Azelaic acid powder as well. A 25 gram bag on amazon will set you back ~$38, but should last you a year and some months. For a 5% solution, both powders should be used at 50mg daily.

EDIT: Forgot to include this other RU solution synthesis article. This guy mixes it daily using a solvent solution, so it's definitely more advanced, but about as comprehensive as you can get. As he also mentions in this guide: "If you want to be hardcore, you could use fin or dut PLUS RU58841/minox/azelaic (home brew as above). If you do this approach as an average guy, I think it would be physically impossible to go bald." There's your motivation!

Example