Best applicator tools according to redditors

We found 10 Reddit comments discussing the best applicator tools. We ranked the 9 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Applicator Tools:

u/the_mullet_fondler · 4 pointsr/Trackdays

Now that you've done structural work, you want to fill the other side. I'm not a fan of bondo (polyester) - it cracks when you look at it wrong and it doesn't bend at all. Polyester fillers are for pinholes at most 1-2mm in diameter.

Instead, use resin mixed with a polyethylene balloon filler - this allows it to be sandable like bondo but takes overnight to set obviously since it's epoxy resin, but actually bonds to the underlying fiberglass and it far more flexible and structurally sound. Mix in around 1:1 with resin, it should nearly stand on it's own (think baking meringue) so it doesn't run when applied to the outer surface of your part. Dry overnight, sand by hand with 80 grit, repeat until you have a surface you are happy with painting.

Bondo is literally the last step you do 1h beforehand, just run it with the rubber squeegee into all the little pinholes.

As for painting, lots of guides on this... Generally you'll want everything at least down to old primer before painting, work through the grits. 80/120/180 at least and 220, you can use a festool or good soft palm sander for big spots like a bellypan but at least 75% of it is done by hand with a soft block and sandpaper. Use your hand or sander around corners and it will not turn out, trust me. Clean meticulously with acetone and then tack wipes before priming. Then sand primer with 120 grit and then paint.

This process took me about 30-35 hours of work over a month, I did around 30 structural repairs and 25-30 fills on the outside.

Parts list:

  • cheap kitchen scale accurate to ~1-2g
  • Big picnic table / workbench
  • Thick drop plastic (100 sq ft)
  • West system epoxy plus hardener
  • Acetone
  • paintbrushes
  • soft block for sanding
  • sandpaper of all the grits
  • scrapers /squeegees/spreaders like these
  • high density silica (West 404) and low density balloons (West 407)
  • Bondo
  • Masks - these
  • loads of nitrile gloves

    Last words - patience here. You are the master of the engineered product - you can take it down and add to it as many times as you want if you screw up. Doing the structural repairs in pieces, small batches of resin mixing, just take your time and do a couple hours of work, let it cure overnight, then sand and do some more.

    PPE is NOT optional. (masks, gloves, etc).

    Also your arms will be itchy from the fiberglass dust for eternity.

    Edit: cleaned things up a bit.
u/koukimonster91 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

u mean this?

u/CommunistCuntWaffle · 3 pointsr/Elantra

These are all the things I used

Miayon Vehicle Vinyl Film Tool... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JZBM4N9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


194 168 T10 2825 W5W LED Bulb... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076HNCT8H?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


3M 1080 G13 GLOSS HOT ROD RED 5ft... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007EF20GQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

In total it’s $30 and changed all shipped
I also used rubbing alcohol, a microfiber towel, and a heat gun (hairdryer works) and a flathead screwdriver time pop out the license plate lights.

Super easy took me about 1:30-2 hours to wrap since it was my first time every wrapping anything. And the bulbs took literally 1 min each

u/djkrugger · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

The original black stick is pretty good but for bigger things like laptops and monitors you'll probably be better with something like this, some last longer than others but all are disposable, they are soft that's what are made for :)

u/Madblood · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

Plastic scrapers are the way to go. I used these and these when I did the head gaskets in my Lumina. They get chewed up pretty quickly, but the chisel-type ones can be renewed with a file or grinder, and the scraper one has replaceable blades. Also some CRC Gasket Remover spray and some acetone for the final cleaning will come in handy.

I'm pretty sure your engine has an aluminum block, so definitely try to make sure it's not warped. Mine had a steel block and aluminum heads, plus it didn't overheat, so I bought remanufactured heads from Amazon and took what I felt was the acceptable risk of not having a professional check the block. With an aluminum head and the overheating, I don't think I would be comfortable doing the same.

Something else to consider: your car is pretty old and stuff is probably going to break. No offense meant, just sayin'. I had that issue with my Lumina. The heat shield studs on the exhaust manifold wrung off, with pretty much no hope of drilling them out, so I had to buy a new one. I had to remove the alternator and the bracket broke, then I cracked a couple bolt holes on both the upper and lower intakes. That was due to a crappy torque wrench, which I replaced with a better one before I put on the new manifolds. Factoring in for new tools, I figured I could do the job myself for $1200 or less, but ended up costing almost $1800. By the time I paid my regular mechanic to find the exhaust leak I still had (rear manifold wasn't torqued down to the cyinder head tight enough - damned crappy torque wrench again) I might have saved a couple hundred dollars over what the shop quoted me for the whole repair. I did get some shiny new parts and tools plus a whole lot of valuable experience out of it, so it was worth it.

Just out of curiosity, I checked on remanufactured heads for the b20b, and holy crap are they expensive. You can take your head to a machine shop and have them check it out. It might be fine, or just need the mating surface machined. If it needs rebuilt they'll quote you a price, and you can decide from there if it would be better to snag one off of eBay.

u/Gregoryv022 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Google search for Detail Swabs or Detail Sticks.

Something like this

Or These

Also depending on the size of the vents, the smallest wheel woolie or similar tool also works really well.

u/Optimummind · 2 pointsr/GalaxyS8

I loved my Otao TGSP but after it cracked a few days ago (my own fault), I replaced it with this one from Amazon:

EyeO2 Screen Protector for Samsung Galaxy S8 Plus 9H Full Adhesive 3D Curved Tempered Glass Guard High Sensitivity HD Full Cover Edge Protector S8+ Protective Film Replacement Accessories Black 2 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074QN6ZB5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uQmJAbVGYV2HM

Getting all the bubbles out was a major pita but it was worth the effort. No weird rainbow streaks & even better touch sensitivity than Otao.

The spatula tool the kit comes with is useless though. I got the bubbles out using something similar to this:

FOSHIO Black Card Squeegee With Green Micro-Fiber Felt Edge 4 Inch Car Vinyl Installing Handy Tool For Auto Vinyl Wrapping, Pack-3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X95N15F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PSmJAbHNZRN21

u/jodaferg · 2 pointsr/rav4club

Yeah, in addition to the vinyl I got from Amazon (link in another comment), I got this vinyl application kit also from Amazon. It's always nice to have an Exacto knife on hand if you need to trim anything by hand.

​

I watched some YouTube videos on how to install vinyl wrap before, this guy does a pretty good job explaining how to do a wrap and has some other great videos related to using the correct tools and techniques for a vinyl wrap application.

u/wabashful · 1 pointr/prius

I have goo gone, etc., but I'm afraid that a razor blade will scratch the glass. I think I'll first try with a plastic scraper like this:

http://amzn.com/B005DVHV0S

Thanks for the tips!

u/awedaniel · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

I just picked up these:

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LJ3C2DA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Used them once so far, they work well. I have to be careful on my skinny tires though.