Best aquarium air pump accessories according to redditors

Get this:

https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC

​

Bettas really shouldn't be kept in bowls. There is no filtration so they are being poisoned by their poop. There isn't enough water so they cant swim and their waste is more toxic quicker. They are also tropical fish and should have a heater to keep the water around 78F.

I know you are on a budget but I STRONGLY recommend getting a much larger tank. Right now Petco is having a $ per gallon sale so you should pick up a 10 gallon tank (I don't think the 5 gallon qualifies) for $10. Get a good heater (The one thing you shouldn't skimp on...don't want any cooked fish) Also pick up a sponge filter like this and a cheap air pump. If you want some cheap lighting you could do desk lamps with normal light bulbs. This pretty much covers the essentials of what you need to buy. On a side note though if you buy any plants don't buy plastic as they will rip your bettas fins to shreds insted pick up some silk plants.

Also I would recommend reading up on some basic betta care and this quick overview Also read up on the nitrogen cycle and some general information

Side note- you should look into getting your dad a Python aquarium water changer. Hooks up to your faucet and can both empty and fill the tank for you. I got my dad one because he’s got a slipped disk in his back and couldn’t carry his buckets anymore.

I haven't seen anyone give an extensive, quick, and friendly guide so here's a quick one!

You're going to need a 5.5 gallon in order for him to thrive, otherwise you're gonna have a very unhappy fish who might live but will not be doing good. An aquarium is a tiny ecosystem in an enclosed space, so a .5 gallon gets very toxic, very quickly. It'll hurt his gills, it'll hurt his fins, just everything. The ammonia will buildup quickly and reach very dangerous levels, and although 100% water changes will decrease that, an established bacteria colony (made up of harmless ones) needs to be there for the fish to really be healthy!

When you see a happy and healthy betta, you will never want to go back!

Cheap quick solution for now: Five gallon Rubbermaid from Walmart, this filter, paired with this air pump, and this connector tube. It will run you about $20, and can hold for a while!

Long Term: Buy a 5.5 standalone aquarium tank from Petsmart (only $14.99) and a little pack of gravel, and some live plants of your choice! Check our r/aquaswap for some cheap plants from other Reddit users. Just move over the filter and heater, and you have the perfect set up! There are also some cheap lighting solutions that you can buy to help your plants grow!

Everyone gets tricked in the beginning, but making steps towards helping your betta will enhance his life so much! The whole set up, the filter/air pump/tubing and tank from petsmart, will cost you $27.48 since you've already got the heater!

If your heater is too small, I've got the link to a $6 one (which is $10 less than the cheapest at any pet store I've been to) on amazon that works perfectly and is recommended all the time on this sub.

I was in your shoes not too long ago, it's overwhelming! Here's a list of things that I bought, but I am not an expert so if others have better input go for that:

Equipment

• 10 gallon tank with hood
  
• Broad Spectrum Light The one that came with the hood did not provide enough for the plants, you definitely need to invest in a broad spectrum bulb.
  
• CaribSea Flora Max Substrate I learned that shrimp prefer darker color substrate, this was worth the investment! My shrimp were so unhappy with cheap gravel, after switching to this substrate they are very active.
  
• Air pump
  
• Sponge filter
  
• Heater, maybe optional for you?
  
• Thermometer
  
• Gallon Bucket
  
• Siphon
  
• Seachem Prime Because it's a smaller tank, I ended up poking a pinhole sized hole in the seal so that I could use it as drops rather than pouring it in.
  
• [Seachem Stability] (https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-67101230-Stability-500ml/dp/B0002APIIW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1499786377&sr=1-1&keywords=seachem+stability) Use this while you're cycling your tank, follow the instructions.
  
• API Test Kit
  
• Feeding Tray For the longest time I was really confused as to how the feeding tray worked, you can either get a tube or pre-soak the pellets and then drop them into the tray using long tweezers. This will help prevent ammonia/nitrite spikes.
  
• Long Tweezer Set
  
• Pellets Do also feed them blanched vegetables, make sure to peel the skin and buy organic to avoid chemicals/pesticides
  
• Timer Outlet Worth the investment! So you don't have to keep remembering to turn the light on and off.
  
  Shop for whatever is cheaper, I have a huge heater because I had an extra one from before. I've read that it's not necessary but also have read that if you want them to breed you need to stimulate warm water. For now, I keep the heater off and leave it at room temperature of 72F. They seem very happy! Most important in my opinion, add plenty of plants and a marimo ball or 2.
  
  Lastly, I'm unsure of the siphon, I think it's good to have a bucket and siphon just in case your water parameters are looking bad so you are prepared to do a water change. From what I read, shrimp have a very low bio load and should be able to sustain themselves. Make sure to do tests regularly.
  
  EDIT I just read that this is your first aquarium, so here is a detailed write up:
  
  Setting up your tank
  
  
• 1. Find a stable top to place your aquarium on, keep in mind a well sunlit room will mean more plant/algae growth. Make sure it's sturdy and made for heavy objects, don't want to place it on a flimsy shelf or it might break! I keep mine on top a waterproof place mat because water drips are going to happen.
     
• 2. Rinse everything as a precaution! NEVER use dish soap!! If you must sanitize, vinegar is okay. Just make sure to rinse thoroughly. Also, NEVER use any kind of soap on your hands before handling things, just rinse well with water. Add your substrate, I lightly rinsed mine as there are beneficial bacteria living inside the substrate, pour it in. Make sure it's at least 2" of floor. Your water will be cloudy if you bought the substrate I listed, don't worry as it will settle after an hour and be clear.
     
• 3. Fill water half way, use a small plate and pour the water on top of that to avoid the substrate being pushed around. NEVER use hot water! If you're using tap water be sure to always use cold water. It's also recommended to purchase "RO water" (Reverse Osmosis Water) as some times your tap water can be too "hard". The best thing to do is use the test kit on tap water and go from there. If the kH/gH are very high 100+ you will need to use RO water. I like to place my plants and decor now while the tank is half full. Place in your thermometer, heater, sponge filter, etc. After that, continue to fill all the way to the top remembering to aim the stream on top the plate. Leave about a half to an inch from the top.
     
• 4. Take out plate, plug in filter, add in Seachem Prime and Seachem Stability. Please read the label for instructions and dosage according to your tank size. Since there is nothing inside you can add it after you've added the water to the tank. Moving forward, be sure to add the chemicals in the water bucket BEFORE pouring into the tank.
     
• 5. Turn on filter, wait for the water to settle and temperature to come up. They say shrimp can tolerate 52F to 86F but ideally room temperature water is best, this is where your water heater will come into play. Follow which ever cycling method you choose before purchasing your shrimp. This can take up to 6 weeks.
     
     After your tank has cycled
     
     
• 1. When adding your shrimp, there are many methods, the way I acclimate my shrimp is:
     
• 2. Put the shrimp in a 1 gallon tub using the water that they came in.
     
• 3. Drop in a tablespoon of the tank water, ONCE every 2 minutes.
     
• 4. After the water has reached 1/3 old water, 2/3rd new water, your shrimp are ready to be placed into your tank.
     
     Please don't skip the important step of acclimating your shrimp! They are very sensitive to water changes and this ensures that they will survive.
     
     Here are my water parameters, people have all kinds of ranges but this is what works for me:
     
     
• kH: 60 / gH: 40 / pH: 7.0 / NO2: 0 / NO3: 20 / Ammonia: 0 / Temperature: 72F
  
  I hope this helps... again, I was in your shoes not too long ago, it was really overwhelming. But after a lot of research I think my tank is in a good place :). Other users, if there's anything in my list that seems incorrect please let me know!

Absolutely. DIY CO2 is ridiculously easy. I’m not that technically inclined so if I can do it anyone can. This may seem like a lot but it’s not as bad as it looks. I used to use the Fluval 88g CO2 system but it was ludicrously expensive to but the proprietary refill canisters. This setup is soooo cheap and completely reliable and produces ample CO2. I’m happy to tell you some pitfalls once you get it set up because it would be hard for you to follow me without having it in front of you.

DIY CO2 Aquarium Plant System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_o0JPDbTTNQCT0

Fluval 88g-CO2 Bubble Counter - 3.1 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GCPM6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_40JPDb482G6RQ

Fluval Ceramic 88g-CO2 Diffuser - 3.1 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GCO35G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-3JPDbJ43F4ZG

Milliard Citric Acid 5 Pound - 100% Pure Food Grade NON-GMO Project VERIFIED (5 Pound) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EYFKNL8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_34JPDb122FQKM

ARM & HAMMER Pure Baking Soda 8 oz (Pack of 6) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00860VYYC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_A5JPDb8FKP7NN

2 x normal 2 liter soda bottles

hiya, don't feel too bad, it's hard to get it right from the start with so much bad information everywhere.

A 2 gallon tank is a massive upgrade, so well done! I wouldn't mess around with the pH too much, unless it's very high. Stable pH is often better than a somewhat low or high pH.

As for filters, in my experience, a small sponge filter (1, 2), powered by a good airpump (like this one) is a good option for smaller tanks on a budget. You can also see if you can attach it to the air-thing aleardy in the tank. Be sure to also get a check valve and a regulator valve. With the regulator valve, you can decrease the amount of bubbles.

NO NO NO NO NO NO NO.
HOLY CRAP.

Okay, I'm going to save you from a dead fish here, alright?
Water contains a few chemicals for treatment to make it safe for us to drink, one of them is chlorine, in that same family...there is also chloramine.
These burn the hell out of fish's gills. Its dangerous.

Get yourself a bottle of seachem prime. Its a dechlorinator. This will make it safe your fish to even exist in the water.

Second, read about fishless cycling

Since it sounds like you're getting the betta soon. You can read about fish in cycling
You can use that handy dandy bottle of seachem prime dechlorinator to also detoxify ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate for about 48 hours per dose. ONLY PRIME DOES THIS, not any other dechlorinators.

You see, filters on fishtanks contain a happy little bacteria colony that takes fish waste (Ammonia) turns it into a harmful nitrite, then turns it into relatively harmless nitrate. It keeps your fish stress free and also, if those toxin levels get to high--it kills them/ or makes them susceptible to disease. You can check the levels with this test kit

Bettas enjoy low flow in their fishtanks because they aren't the strongest of swimmers. I recommend a sponge filter. They also like their tank between 78-80 degrees. So a good heater is a MUST.

The two biggest challenges with all-in-one setups for shrimp is light (not enough) and waterflow (too much.) Shrimp really require live plants to thrive, and those plants need enough light to grow. It's hard to judge from pictures, but that tank's light seems like it MIGHT be adequate for low light plants. Shrimp also require very low waterflow. High waterflow will blow them around (they're tiny and light swimmers compared to fish) and they will easily get sucked onto the intakes of most filters. The tank you linked would need some modifications to be suitable for shrimp: at the very least it will need sponges or pantyhose covering the inlet and outlets, and the flow will need to be turned down to the lowest setting, probably.

So, it might work. But if you're interested in shrimp specifically, you might as well spend a small amount extra and build a custom setup that is tailored to them. You'd need:

• a 10 gal tank (10 gal is cheaper to buy than 5, it's not any more work, and barely any more space.) Check thrift store for this if budget is a concern. You don't NEED a hood, unless you have kids or cats or something.
  
  
• A sponge filter , aquarium tubing, and an air pump. This is the preferred filter type for shrimp. While we're discussing filters, make sure you understand the nitrogen cycle, and the basics of cycling a tank.
  
  
• An aquarium heater and a thermometer. Don't stinge here. Maintaining a stable temperature is key.
  
  
• A nice light. Doesn't have to pricey. A desk lamp and a daylight CFL bulb works great, but LEDs like thisare not much, either.
  
  I think all of that will run you roughly $75, give or take. Obviously, more expensive than the all-in-one, but it would result in a tank that would be easier for a beginner to succeed with.
  
  You'll also need to get some non-equipment essentials, like subtrate for planting in, a test-kit for monitoring your water, and obviously food, and a petri dish for feeding is highly recommended.
  
  Then you can get into plants and stuff. Whew! Sounds like a lot, I guess. It is, but it's worth it, and shrimp are definitely a good place to jump into aquariums.
  
  
  

• Regulator-$60
  
  
• 24 oz paintball tank-$23
  
  
• Paintball to CGA-320 adapter-$10
  
  
• Airline tubing-$7
  
  
• Diffuser-$12
  
  Total for everything is $112 not including tax.
  
  I use this regulator and the needle valve is a bit touchy, but its solid and works well enough. The solenoid has never stuck either. You can set it and forget it.
  
  People are going to call out using airline tube vs CO2 proof tubing. CO2 proof tubing is completely unnecessary at the pressures what we work at and isn't very flexible, so I like the airline better.
  
  This is my favorite diffuser because it has a halfway decent check valve, it has a build in bubble counter, and you can remove the ceramic disc without taking everything apart. I have 4 of these running in different tanks and 2 have had zero issues. The other two had small leaks that I sealed with gorilla glue and they've worked perfect since.

You're gonna likely want one of these, there are a few different kinds to choose from beyond this. Hell, you could even make your own. But it will make your life much easier.
http://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1405905674&sr=8-2&keywords=aquarium+water+change

It would certainly be easier to answer "What did you already know" before you started this. Nothing.

This list will inevitably be incomplete but here goes:

• How to fiberglass - also, fiberglass is nasty.
  
• How to use a router properly
  
• How to solder (for the lights)
  
• How to clean silicone off of every surface known to man (Vinegar and razor blades)
  
• The cheap white insulation foam at Home Depot sucks to carve. Get the pink stuff.
  
• When carving foam rocks, don't sweat the details because the concrete is going to completely cover them up anyway.
  
• Sanded grout/concrete (I think I actually used concrete), you basically need a splash of water per 2 cups of concrete - and sanded looks way more like real rock than unsanded
  
• You really only need 2 colors of paint to make realistic rocks (black and white). Nature will add the rest of the colors once you introduce plants.
  
• Cut notches in any PVC supports to prevent stagnant water in your pipe.
  
• What vivarium makers call egg crate is really the plastic lattice you find under commercial florescent lights.
  
• Egg crate is pretty darn studry and can hold a lot of weight when properly supported (used it under the planted sides).
  
• Use organic (non-fertilized) garden soil for the planted part of a vivarium. Actually, you might not need soil at all if you have fish since you basically end up with a closed circuit hydroponic system.
  
• Expanding foam is impossible to completely scrub off without taking some skin with it. Wear rubber gloves.
  
• Like the rocks, don't sweat the details with expanding foam if you plant to cover it (like I did with Hygrolon). I included a ton of texture that is completely obscured by the moss (but hey, the moss still looks great).
  
• Tape plexiglass before you cut it. It makes for a much cleaner (and safer) cut.
  
• Sheet moss can be pinned to your background with bamboo skewers and it works pretty darn well. The moss will take at least a few weeks to really attach to the background.
  
• You should really have your entire land area planted before introducing fish. The run-off from lots of new material can cause a few fish deaths. :(
  
• A powerhead doubles as a vacuum, reducing tank maintenance. Just scrape off the powerhead grate every few days.
  
• You don't really have to dechlorinate your water before doing a large water change (30 gallons in my case is not unusual). Before adding new water, dose your tank with prime for the entire tank volume.
  
• Purigen is pure magic. ..but don't count on being able to regenerate it, even if you've never used any of the fouling chemicals it lists.
  
• If you have a manifold, keep it over a bucket...just in case.
  
• Plants release CO2 at night (weird, right), so you might find your fish at the surface gasping for air. Add an airstone. Don't ask me how to properly weight down an air hose though, still working that bit out.
  
• There are ultrasonic foggers meant for ponds that work great in vivariums! They make the most fog when submerged but still fairly close to the surface. Make sure animals can't come in contact with the fogger itself though...they hurt pretty bad when you touch them.
  
• Plants will grow just fine under LEDs with the right spectrum.
  
• A fan at the top of your window and a small gap at the bottom will help prevent your window from fogging since dry air will be drawn across the glass.
  
• Snails are AMAZING algea eaters and their population naturally stays in balance with the available food supply. You don't need to order gobs of them, they reproduce very quickly on their own. And don't sweat it if you don't see them for a few weeks after adding them to your tank. Trust that they are doing good work.
  
• Little white worms in your substrate mean you are likely overfeeding.
  
• Pushing water vertically 8 feet is hard, yet my canister filter managed it pretty ok. I added an inline pump anyway, but if you have a smaller setup, a simple manifold on your filter output should probably be fine to split the water return to different areas.
  
• Finding aquarium manifolds with barbs is hard. Jeez, it shouldn't be so hard. Might be better to piece one together at the hardware store than spending a ton of time finding one online.
  
• Prepping found wood for a vivarium is a lot of work, but waaay cheaper than buying it. Just soak it in salt water for a few days, switch to fresh water and do water changes daily. If you're paranoid like me, boil it for a few hours and then leave it in your oven at 200 degrees for as long as it takes to dry.
  
• Large water changes are way easier with the Python: http://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC
  
  And probably another 1000 things.

Hello! Welcome to the wonderful world of betta keeping! I'm a bit late to the game, since this was posted a bit ago, and you've already recieved advice, but I'd like to offer up some as well.

As everyone has already said, it's a pretty big misconception for nearly all new betta keepers that bettas can be kept in small spaces without a filter or heater. This stems from the belief that bettas live in mud puddles, when it couldn't be further from the truth.

Bettas come from vast rice paddies, that will usually never dip below knee height and stretches for miles on end. In the dry season, the paddies do tend have lower water levels, but certainly not puddles. It's a densely planted ecosystem with moving water, and natural filters, ie. The plants and bacteria.

Since you're new to fish keeping (I assume, but apologies if I am wrong) you may not be aware of something called the "Nitrogen Cycle." While it may be confusing at first, essentially the beneficial bacteria that breaks down your fishes waste into ammonia, then nitrites, and then nitrates. This process is crucial for your fishes health and well being, and is very important in the fish keeping world, but I'll get into the specifics a bit more later in this comment.

While the "recommended" amount of space for a betta is commonly agreed to be 2.5 gallons, which is perfectly fine as a bare minimum, I would honestly not recommend such a small space for a beginner. This is because of the nitrogen cycle. I would go with a 5 gallon tank, or even a 10 gallon, which will be much easier to cycle and keep your fish much safer during the process.

As for the nitrogen cycle itself, the process happens on it's own, but you have to be the one to keep your fish safe during it. Basically, ammonia and nitrites are deadly to your fish, and for the first few weeks, these will be all too common. What your aiming for is the much safer, but still harmful in large quantities, and manageable nitrites at the end of the cycle.

The nitrogen cycle starts with the addition of ammonia into a new tank. This can be done in 2 ways, fish in or fish out. What you'll be doing is a fish in cycle. Beneficial bacteria will begin to grow in your tank to break down waste and convert them into the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates. The bacteria grow on surfaces, such as decor, gravel, filter, heater, glass, and is NOT present in the water itself. This means that for the next few weeks, you gotta stay on top of your water change game.

50% water changes every other day for 2 weeks. 30% water changes every other day for 2 weeks. 40% water changes about every 3-4 days for a week. 30% water changes about once or twice a week at the end of the cycle. I know it seems like a lot, but your fish will appreciate it.

For more information on the Nitrogen Cycle, you can search it on google, and a helpful video to watch on it is KGTropicals youtube video "everything you need to know about the nitrogen cycle." They break it down so well and have more visual representations, so I definitely recommend it.

Some things to consider getting for your fish as well, and things that will help your cycle a TON. I'll be adding links for visual representation, as well as trying to find you the best prices I can.

1. A good sized tank. I recommend a 5 or 10 gallon, much easier to start and keep a cycle in a bigger tank, but yes, 2.5 gallons is perfectly fine if you need it space wise. Be aware that even more water changes will be required to keep and maintain your tanks balance though.
   
   No links for this one since shipping a tank is a PAIN, but 5 and 10 gallon tanks can be bought from places like walmart, or local stores, or petsmart and Petco. I'm not sure if petco is still having their dollar per gallon sale, but a 10 gallon tank would only be $10.
   
   
2. A good water conditioner. I recommend something like Seachem Prime or Neutral Regulator. These will remove any heavy metals, chlorine, and chlorimine from your water, AND detoxify ammonia, and nitrites for 48 hours. This is SO GOOD for keeping your fish happy and healthy during the cycling process.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Safe-250-g-8-8-oz/dp/B0002A5WOC/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=seachem+prime&qid=1572116532&sr=8-8
   
   
3. A good filter. Personally, sponge filters are the way to go. Easy, cheap, reliable. Most local fish stores will have the sponge filter itself, but they can also be ordered on Amazon. The other things needed would be airline tubing, and an airpump. The tubing and air pump can be bought even at big retailers like walmart or meijer and replaced easily sin e they're so readily available.
   
   To clean a sponge filter is the easiest thing. While your changing tank water, out some in a clean bucket, take your sponge filter out, put in bucket of removed tank water, squeeze sponge filter, put back in tank. It also holds an awesome amount of the good beneficial bacteria and will not lose it when you clean it, unlike changing cartridges for a hang on back filter. They also aerate the water, bringing more oxygen into it, and don't create a high flow that will tire your betta.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Lefunpets-Biochemical-Sponge-Breeding-Aquarium/dp/B07VM8DN5Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=sponge+filter&qid=1572116736&sr=8-7
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Pump-Gallon-Aquariums/dp/B004PB8SMM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=fish%2Btank%2Bair%2Bpump&qid=1572116792&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-Aquariums-Flexible-Standard/dp/B0002563MW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=airline+tubing&qid=1572116832&sr=8-3
   
   Hang on back filters can be used too though, I just don't find them as reliable.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Power-Filter-Three-Stage/dp/B001CHXJSK/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?keywords=fish+tank+filter&qid=1572117085&sr=8-16
   
   Be sure to use a hang on back appropriate for your tank size. Bettas can tire easily of water flow is too high, and in some cases you may still need to baffle the filter.
   
   https://youtu.be/Hse7F3pvHqI
   
   
4. A good heater. Ideally, you want one you can adjust. Choose a heater for your tank size as well. Too small, won't keep water warm, too bug, could possibly cook your fish. That's never a good thing.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/HITOP-Aquarium-Reptiles-Thermometer-50W-Grey/dp/B07MJJJ4QQ/ref=sxin_2_ac_m_pm?ac_md=1-0-VW5kZXIgJDIw-ac_d_pm&keywords=fish+tank+heater&pd_rd_i=B07MJJJ4QQ&pd_rd_r=429ee2a8-3699-45aa-8e2b-e30164b14a2a&pd_rd_w=uFCrj&pd_rd_wg=125c4&pf_rd_p=808372f4-ce06-4458-88ef-16b605aa053a&pf_rd_r=T4YHMVDAP5EAQSAGXKJV&psc=1&qid=1572117367
   
   
5. A good food. The recommended I've seen so far is Northfin betta bits, or Fluval bug bites. You can also go the frozen food route, but it's a bit more expensive and involved.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Northfin-Betta-Bits-Pellet-Package/dp/B01C1ARV3K/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=northfin+betta+bits&qid=1572117834&sprefix=northfin+&sr=8-2
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A6577-Tropical-Granules-Medium/dp/B07194GD1F/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=fluval+bug+bites&qid=1572117868&sprefix=fluval+bug&sr=8-4
   
   I use a mix of Aqueon, Northfin, and Fluval for some variety in my bettas diets along with frozen blood worms. They love them. I've heard Hikari betta food is good too.
   
   I don't recommend the generic foods sold at walmart. The pellets are too big, and the formula is low quality. It'll keep your betta alive, but just isn't great for them. Also, flake foods are a no no. It's just too messy, the fish doesn't eat all of it, and just isn't worth it.
   
   Lastly, you want to decide what kind of decor you will go with. If you go artificial, be sure to use soft, silk plants so your bettas fins do not get hurt.
   
   I recommend live plants always though, cause they help a lot in keeping your tank clean, produce oxygen, and will help absorb some of nitrates in the water. All around good stuff. Easy plants to take care of are anubias, java ferns, java moss, water wisteria, and floating plants like water lettuce.
   
   Bettas also need hiding places. This can be anything really. From the decor sold at walmart, natural looking rock caves, or even a terracotta pot. It doesn't really matter, as long as it doesn't have sharp points.
   
   The decor is up to you and what you like.
   
   Ummmmm, I can't think of anything else really. But if you need any help with anything, feel free to reach out! A lot of us are passionate about our quirky little dudes and gals and will be more than happy to help with anything you need advice on. And use the internet to your advantage too! There's TONS of good information and videos out there now, and you can find what you're looking for at the touch of a screen now.
   
   And also also, please do not feel bad about your start at betta keeping. We all start somewhere, and more than likely, we have all made this very same mistake. I know I did. The best thing to do now is to just work on upgrading your little dude and providing the best care you can for him. He'll start to heal up and REALLY shine.
   
   Apologies for extremely long message, but I hope this helps and wish you and your betta the best of luck!! ☺️

right here. Python No Spill Water Changer. attaches to your faucet. pulls the water out of the tank into the sink and then sends water back into the tank to refill what you've removed.

Step one:

Purchase

• http://www.amazon.com/AQUATEK-OF-CALIFORNIA-Regulator-Mini/dp/B008TJCPSY/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1380759544&sr=1-1&keywords=AQUATEK+paintball
  
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Ceramic-88g-CO2-Diffuser-Ounces/dp/B004GCO35G/ref=pd_sim_petsupplies_3
  
  
• Also --> Grab a tank at your local paintball/sporting goods store.
  
  Step two: Put everything together
  
  Step three: Profit!
  
  EDIT: A few extra things that I remembered and also mentioned below. The regulator comes with a bubble counter, but for NOT come with tubing! You will need to buy the tubing, diffuser, and the co2 indicator. Amazon sells everything you need and is free shipping with their Super Saver option.
  
  

Buy a sponge filter for your tank when/if you get another betta.

I use this one with the tetra brand air pump in my ten gallon and I am very happy with the results.

40 gallons is going to be pushing on what you can accomplish with DIY, so I would avoid going that route, as you wont wind up happy.

As for what you will need, it is really very simple, but not particularly cheap. You need a CO2 tank, a regualtor, bubble counter, diffusor and gas line.

CO2. Go with a 5 or 10 lb tank. If you can find used even better as most places just swap tanks when you fill them, so you get your new shiny aluminum tank, bring it to get filled, they take it and give you a banged up used one back. A 5lb tank should last 3-4 months depending on how many bubbles per second you are pumping

Regulator with Bubble Counter and solenoid, the solenoid is what shuts off flow of CO2 at night, when plugged into a timer. Plants don't utilize CO2 at night, so continuing to pump it into the tank is just wasting gas. Keep it on the same cycle as your lights, or better yet, and hour behind, so it turns on and hour before the lights come on, and off an hour before the lights go off.

Diffuser, you can spend a little or a lot here. I dont really see the need to spend a ton with this part. You do want to see if the unit has a check valve though, and if not, you will need to add one between the bubble counter and diffuser to prevent a back siphoning.

Gas tubing very important you get tubing rated for CO2 gas. Do not use regular air line of the gas will eat right through it

http://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC

• As for filters, you have a plethora of options. The easiest to maintain are either sponge filters powered by an air pump. If you choose to go with a sponge filter you will need a ball valve to regulate the flow and control the amount of current in the tank (bettas generally live in and prefer very calm water with little to no surface agitation). OOOOR my favorite route, a hang-on-back filter. Aquaclear makes an excellent filter. The benefit to a hang-on-back filter over a sponge is that you have control over what type of media you choose to use inside of it. This allows for a ton of more advanced options down the line to control chemical levels and water purity. The average size of a filter speaks volumes to the necessity of a 5 to 10 gallon tank.
  
  
• You will want to replace your plastic plants with ones made of silk. The best way to figure out if a decor item is safe for your fish is by dragging a pair of panty hoes (don’t know if I spelt that right) across the decoration. If the panty hoes tear at all then the item is not safe for your fish's fins. Once you are a bit deeper into the hobby, live plants are an excellent addition to any tank as they provide a type of "buffer" for your tank as they absorb harmful chemicals. That being said they can be quite a bit of work depending on what you want to grow.
  
  
• API makes the best hobbyist level water test kit on the market. That being said, I hate the rest of their products for the most part. They are just simply inferior to other options. When you can, all you need to buy is some Seachem Prime for your water condition. It is the crème de la crème of water conditions and while the price tag is higher than others up front it is MUCH cheaper in the long run as it literally only takes 1 ml / 10 gallons to make your water safe for your fish. It also nullifies harmful ammonia and nitrite through a proprietary formula. To add to the awesomeness, you can safely overdose it at up to 5x the concentration safely, and that is even recommended for particularly harmful situations such as cycle crashes or fish-in cycles.
  
  
• Due to the size of the tank he was in, water changes are a bit irrelevant. With such a small body of water and no filter, to keep him safe you would need to be performing 25-50% water changes a few times a day (not exaggerating) this leads back to my previous point about larger bodies of water being much easier to maintain. Once you have upgraded to a larger setup a standard water change schedule is usually ~30% once a week. In the event your water parameters are way out of whack and you need to change a lot of the water out, it is ALWAYS better to perform many small scale water changes as opposed to one large one. Large water changes cause violent shifts in PH, water hardness, temperature, and other parameters. These all stress the hell out of our little buddies. To add to this, established tanks do not need to be "cleaned" ever. All that is necessary is a vacuuming of the substrate to clean up any leftover food (we are gonna get to avoiding leftovers altogether shortly) or waste.
  
  
• After hearing about his living conditions, his condition upon death is less and less relevant. Unfortunately due to the nature of his home, he was going to pass quickly regardless of the cause.
  
  
• Food! In the wild meals for bettas are sometimes very scarce! They primarily live off of mosquitos and mosquito larva. They will sometimes go up to two weeks without finding a meal. Because of this, they have no mechanism in their anatomy to signal when they are full. They gorge themselves on whatever they can as they may not have another meal for a very long time. It is always better to error on the side of caution of underfeeding rather than overfeeding. A good rule of thumb is that their stomachs are about the size of their eyeballs. For reference, my fully grown betta gets about 3-4 pellets twice a day. That being said he is quite large and feeding schedules vary from fish to fish. If you watch them while they eat you can actually see their tummies plumping up a bit right after they eat. Plump is good, too plump is not. Another safety measure that many people utilize is a fasting day once a week. Many folks will feed a bit heavier on a Saturday and give treats like blood worms and then will starve them the next day. This helps clean out their digestive systems that are very susceptible to blockages and bloating.
  
  
• Removing leftover food is important. A helpful tool for this is a turkey baster. Any leftover food will breakdown into Ammonia. This is one reason many people like to keep shrimp or snails as tank companions as they will clean up the leftovers. If you aren't ready for that yet, just make sure you clean out the leftover food.
  
  
• Omega one betta buffet is great food. Freeze dried bloodworms are awesome too. I generally save the bloodworms as a treat since they are so messy and difficult to clean up what they don't eat.
  
  
• In reference to the buggy eyes, with a 1 gallon tank, no filter and no heater, there could have been numerous causes for his condition.
  
  I like to end posts like this with shots of my tanks. I do this because I just want to remind you 1 more time that my first 5 gallon tank was an absolute death trap for any fish that was unfortunate enough to land in it. I hope this helps!!!
  
  
• http://i.imgur.com/lYu70ZW.jpg
  
  
• http://i.imgur.com/qP7LmqU.jpg
  
  
• http://i.imgur.com/lL2M7xw.jpg
  
  
• http://i.imgur.com/Gkkywcv.jpg
  
  
• http://i.imgur.com/MTDRF2N.jpg
  

Well, I'm still in the planning stages but I'm going to be using a sponge filter for my aquarium. I have some activated carbon at home I use for terrariums and I'll just place it in the clear exhaust tube so it can do its work after the main sponge. It removes tannins, some bad bacteria, and a lot of the smell. It's purely cosmetic, but the best method is just to keep changing water on a regular basis.

What size tank do you have?

If you are set on the paintball set up, you can't go wrong with the Aquatek mini regulator. It is the regulator I have set up on my 15 gallon and it has been fantastic. Basically, the parts you will need are:

• Regulator (Aquatek mini or if you have the $$, the GLA model is likely very nice.
  
• CO2 tubing (Aquatek has good stuff).
  
• Some kind of diffuser. These can be had for cheap on Ebay or Amazon. I bought a cheap one on Amazon and was disappointed with it, so I ended up buying this one and I love it.
  
• A bubble counter. There is a bubble counter included with the Aquatek mini regulator, but it is a cheapo unit. If you want to spend a little more money for a good one, check here for some good examples.
  
• Paintball tanks, obviously. I would recommend getting the largest one you can find and maybe getting two of them. That way you can have one on the tank at all times, when it gets low, swap them out and you will have a couple months to get the backup filled.
  
• A drop checker. This is used to estimate the levels of CO2 diffused in the water. It is filled with a pH indicator solution that changes color as the pH of the solution changes as the CO2 levels in the water change. It is a handy little device which will prove it's worth quickly. I use this one and have been very happy with it, but there are nicer ones here if you want that classy glassy look.
  
  Obviously, CO2 setups aren't cheap, but with the paintball route you can do it relatively inexpensively compared to the full scale regulator route. Good luck! I'd be happy to clear anything else up for you if you have questions.
  
  Edit: Make sure you have a check valve in the system somewhere. This will keep aquarium water from flowing up the line into the regulator. Some of those items I listed (like the GLA diffuser) have them built in, which will solve that problem. However, if you choose products without a check valve built in you will need to add one. Here are some (also more tubing there to choose from).

They're selling you a blackbox education package and some weirdo modular farm for $2500. You have no idea what you're getting in either. All I can tell you is this:

A 200 sq ft system (including everything) cannot feed 8 people. 1,100 lbs of vegetables and 400 lbs of tilapia won't feed 8 people, and that's what they claim their system makes. Average people eat 4.5-5 lbs of food in a day on average, meaning 1652-1825 lbs per year per human. A system that produces 1500 lbs won't even feed one person, but they say it right there:

>This one module will feed 8 people FOREVER

That's a lie. Even on their inflated estimates of how much food they produce, that's an outright lie.

Another thing I know: This system does not include fish tanks. Fish tanks are the most expensive part of every build I've ever done, and this system asks that you provide your own. This system does not include filtering tanks, either, which will run you another good bit of change. Potentially most importantly, This system does not include fish. Food-fish are hard to source, and you'll have to source your own.

And to add insult to injury, this system does not include grow medium or PVC. You are paying over a thousand dollars a unit at the the lowest prices (which you can only get at huge volumes, over 50 units) for grow beds, a patented water pump, two air pumps (for no reason, one air pump works just as well), two air stones, tubing, a patented electrical panel, worm castings, mineral dust, and a list of all the other shit you'll have to buy.

Let's price this out:

• Grow Beds - they're not using box beds, they appear in the pictures to be using black pvc sheeting, like for ponds. 250 ft sq - $150
  
• Water Pump - Dr Nate from Bright Agrotech says moving all of your system volume once every two hours is okay. if you have an 8 inch deep grow bed filled to 2 inches below the top of the medium in a medium that takes 60% of the space in the container that would be roughly 320 gallons, so you need to move roughly 160 gallons an hour, and you'll probably want to move them three feet up. So using Pondmaster pumps (a pretty solid brand I see in heavy use) you'd use the Pondmaster mag Drive 3 - $65
  
• Air pumps - fuck it, use whatever. If it won't kill aquarium fish, it won't kill aquaponic fish This looks like insane overkill, let's buy two, then add air tubing and a fistful of junctions and Four of these air stones and call it a day (I measured NOTHING and I don't regret it, everything I picked was probably insane overkill) for a grand total of $125 for the air setup.
  
• A patented electrical panel? We'll use a surge protector. $10 if we're fancy here.
  
• A pound of worm castings - $6
  
• Two pounds of Azomite Mineral Dust - $12
  
  And the grand total is: $368 for everything they offer, minus the list of other things you'll have to buy.
  
  Hope that list is worth $600+ in your mind.
  
  Seriously though, just go watch all of Bright Agrotech's videos five or seven times apiece to get the science and then read here to figure out what kind of system you want. I just spent fifteen minutes and saved you over a thousand dollars setting up your system. Imagine what you can do in a couple hours.

First grow.

This took 2-3 months. Seems like I ran into a number of first-timer pitfalls along the way. Good learning experience though.

Can't wait. So god damn tired of shady, undependable hook ups.


Edit 2:

Photos of my setup.

• http://i.imgur.com/fc8wn1B.jpg
  
• http://i.imgur.com/HmUWGgR.jpg
  
• http://i.imgur.com/nOcwlPm.png
  
  
  
  Edit 1:
  
  Some have asked about my setup. This is about everything. This is my first grow so take my suggestions with a cup of salt but this stuff has worked well for me.
  
  Tent:
  
  Zero complains. Very happy with this. It just fits perfectly into a closet (had to remove the hanger bar though).
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004U6WCMY
  
  
  Air
  
  
  
  Carbon filter:
  
  The inside of my tent stinks. I smell absolutely nothing outside. Don't get caught. Get a good carbon filter. Maybe not this one, but something.
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FVJK60
  
  
  Inline fan:
  
  I hand this outside the tent. No need to take up any space or add any heat inside the tent.
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JQ14F8
  
  
  Variable xformer for fan control:
  
  This allows me to control the noise and airflow. Every other fan controller made the fan buzz. This thing is quality built. I keep it around 50v.
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI8VS
  
  
  Circulation fans:
  
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004RTMD8C
  
  
  DWC
  
  
  
  
  Bucket top net pots:
  
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049XIIGC
  
  
  Air pump:
  
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JPEVMC
  
  
  Airline:
  
  The black just prevents light from getting into my res.
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D4XTUU
  
  
  Air stones:
  
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050HJ7Q6
  
  
  Check valves:
  
  You NEED these. Many airlines are thin enough that if the power goes out or a hose becomes disconnected, capillary action might permit water to back-flow into your electrical air pump and/or just flood your room. Don't take chances when a .50 cent valve will protect you. There are some horror stories in the aquarium hobby about this. Note, even if the air pump is higher than your res, capillary action can pull the water up through the air hose. This is the same principle that allows 100ft trees carry water from the roots to the canopy.
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00977J508
  
  
  Lighting
  
  
  
  Lights:
  
  Word of warning. Start off a good distance between the lights and your canopy. These product more light than you think and I have burned and cooked plants from keeping these too close. They don't product a ton of heat or anything. I think it's just too much light if they aren't a good foot or so away from the canopy. I assumed I could practically lay LEDs on top of my canopy. Not so.
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FGFLCXS
  
  
  Adjustable ropes for lights:
  
  Chains work, these are just faster/easier to adjust.
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098R0600
  
  
  Tools
  
  
  
  Temp/humidity sensors:
  
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013BKDO8
  
  
  pH pen:
  
  I used to do chemical reagent tests (I have tons of aquariums so I had it laying around). Never again. A pen is fucking awesome for dialing in pH every morning. Get one!
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EQISYQO
  
  
  Pruning snips:
  
  These are great. Sharp as fuck and solid.
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004SD76
  
  
  Training wire:
  
  What I use for my scrog screen and early training before the screen goes in. Also good for random shit that's temporary enough I don't want to waste a zip tie.
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EXJ652
  
  
  Nutes/Water changes
  
  
  
  
  Pond pump:
  
  This is another must have! I've been using these for a while now to handle water changes in my aquariums. It's also awesome for mixing nutes before they go into your DWC. I drop one in a bucket without a hose attached and then just dump all my nutes and such in. The pump does all the mixing. Then I adjust the pH a little. Give the pump about 10-20 seconds to mix my pH up or down in and test again. I don't have to worry my pH adjustment isn't probably mixed yet. I makes the mixing process so easy and fast. I also use these to pump out my res once the scrog screen is in place.
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006M6MSL0
  
  
  Root protectant:
  
  One of my early problems was with brown algae. This cleared it right up after a week.
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IGFH3FG
  
  
  Syringes:
  
  No guess work. I know exactly how many ml I'm adding.
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RB3CV6
  
  
  Cal-mag:
  
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000J2CUPW
  
  pH control:
  
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BNKWZY
  
  
  Nutes:
  
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COBT54
  
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CO7U02
  
  
  
  
  

An airstone doesn't defuse co2 properly, it's very inefficient, I suggest grabbing a DIY co2 regulator, diffuser, and a bubble counter if you wish on amazon, should cost you twenty-five dollars or so, you'll see a huge difference.

DIY CO2 Aquarium Plant System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bJyuyb1E5K3FV

Fluval Ceramic 88g-CO2 Diffuser - 3.1 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GCO35G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ULyuybPW9C6G2

Fluval 88g-CO2 Bubble Counter - 3.1 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GCPM6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DKyuybDD5AXPX

Buy tank separately, filters, heaters, and lights that come with tanks tend to be low quality so buy separately. I'd say go with 10 gallon for two reasons.

1. A 10 gallon is $15 while a 5 gallon is $13. Two dollars for 5 more gallons seems worth it to me and if petco is doing a $1 dollar per gallon sale than the 10g tank becomes $10.
   
   
2. You could also add other fish in the 10g like a small school of neon tetras, a couple of guppies and or mollies. A 5 gallon is too small for any other fish because most other fishes small enough to live in a 5g like space to move around so they won't be comfortable.
   
   I buy all my supplies on amazon cause i have prime and it's cheaper, i'm a college student so cheapness is everything. This is a good cheap filter and this is a good heater i also recommend a digital thermostat cause it's easier to read the temp rather than squinting your eyes to see the tab thermostats.

What?

You mean pumps? Yes there are pumps that can lift water into your aquarium...

That being said, the Python water changer is a highly popular product for simplifying water changes.. Just run a mix of warm/cold water into the tank when you top up.

Doesn't have to be exactly the same temp, so long as the tank isn't swinging around wildly in temperature.. A few degrees either way is OK...

Well, then you'll love this even more.

Ever tried one of these out? They make water changes way easier

Kits tend to be more expensive and lower quality compared to buying things separately.

A 5 or 10 gallon tank from petco, pet smart, pretty much any pet store is usually only around $15 max.

An air pump, some airline tubing and a sponge filter, all about $12.

A simple adjustable heater, $9 and a thermometer, $2.

Water conditioner, a small bottle is like $6.

Those are the vital basics, for about $35.

Another thing that is a bit pricier but ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY to get as soon as possible is a liquid drop water test kit which currently on Amazon is $22. Do not get the paper test strips, they are a bit cheaper but they are completely inaccurate and they'll end up costing more because you need to keep buying new ones.

A test kit will be absolutely necessary to cycle the new tank, which, if not done carefully, can kill the fish.

If your friend can't get the test kit right away, I'd check around your local pet stores, because often times they'll offer free water testing. Until then, do big water changes (at least 50%) every day to be fairly sure the water is kept clean and safe.

Necessities

api liquid test kit

sponge filter

airline tubing for sponge filter

air pump for sponge filter

thermometer

fluval spec v kit. Comes with filter, decent light that can grow some lowlight plants, idk what else but I hear it's pretty good, I would look around on other sites to find it cheaper

dechlorinator if you don't already have it

heater, I happen to live somewhere where the temperature of my tank floats right in the bettas range, but if this isn't the case for you then you'll need a heater

You'll need something for a lid, can't find anything on amazon but you have a few options: going to a petstore and looking for a 5 gallon lid, going to other websites to look, or making a DIY lid, which can be done with greenhouse panels, or even wood if you don't mind cutting.

Substrate is optional, but if you want it you can either get pool filter sand, which you can find at your local Home Depot or lowes (assuming you're in the US), you'll have to rinse it first but it's really cheap, $8 for 50lb which is more than enough.

I would buy the tank in person at a store or on some site like Craigslist where you can find used tanks for cheap

Also, don't forget to cycle your tank, if you don't know what that is I would do some research on it, it's possibly the most important thing in keeping any aquatic creature

Off the top of my head, will continue to edit to add stuff

Okay, you have my attention. Is this hose all I need? https://www.amazon.com/Python-Aquarium-Maintenance-System-50-Feet/dp/B000255NXC?th=1&psc=1

Oh dear. Is this your first big fish tank? Or first fish tank?

I would highly recommend getting a Python Water changer. It is a little pricy but it is worth the cost.

Other things you will probably need with your python for doing water changes/filling the tank.

- Some 5 gallon buckets from home depot (Great for all sorts of things, they just come in handy in the hobby, a must-have) Very cheap

- A Digital thermometer for water to help temperature match to your tank before adding the water.

- A fish saver cover for your python water changer to help you save fish when you're doing a water change.

Yes you can get fancy guppies, and male look prettier, but if you wanted you could get girls, or both but you’ll have lots of babies (that can be a plus). Sponge filters aren’t expensive.

Just find a properly rate air pump for your size, typically they have the rating in the description. You’ll also need a piece of sponge, airline tubing, and an air stone

airline tubing

sponge

You should be able to find airstones for $1-2 at a local fish shop. You’ll also need an air pump rated for your pond size.

I have two of these and cannot hear them:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MTSR8Y8?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

The fluval kit doesn't function like the typical co2 setup most people run.

The way it works is you turn the knob on to let the co2 fill up the chamber and then turn it off and let the co2 diffuse into the water throughout the day.

TBH this is really a lot of hassle for a system that you have to turn it on and off manually.

If I were to buy a co2 system all over again I would likely go with these items:

Co2 regulator

Diffuser

Drop checker

Check valve

Tubing

I would consider this to be a good bare bones starting system that would get you started in co2 once you pick up a tank from your local welding supply shop.

yeah. i know to watch for the trickles

link for the pump i use (just fyi)

link for the air stones. nothing special

This video has some great advice. I used it when I got my DIY system set up. I purchased a kit from amazon for around $15. Totally worth it so far. Citric acid and baking soda lasts two weeks (when I'm doing it correctly) and I've had great growth so far. Be sure to also pick up a bubble counter and diffuser. Baking soda is easily found at any store with groceries, I had to order citric acid online because my Cub foods didn't have any. Overall the system is totally worth it for around $25.

Sponge filters are the best for shrimp. It's only $2.81 cents shipped.

Here a amazon link where to buy it:

https://amzn.com/B0056XVF82

Here a youtube link about it:

https://youtu.be/Rc5aICDyorM

But you do need an air pump for it.

The shrimp will glaze off the sponge and it will help encourage breeding.

I would not recommend no filter unless your tank is heavy planted but water movement is beneficial to spread out nutrients/co2 to plants.

I do the same thing but just with the hose, no need for the machine as long as the drain spot is lower than wherever the hose is in the tank. With gravity on your side, you just get the siphon started and it goes on its own. I dump mine out a door outside, instead of into the sink. I jam this into the end of my hose and just a few squeezes and it gets started. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017JHPA6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I happen to have my hose hooked up to my gravel vac as well, but that's optional depending on what you're doing.

Finally at work so I can give some links, lol

Here's a cheap sponge filter, I love these for bettas because they have a gentle flow and no mechanical intake for the betta to get sucked into. The bacteria will live in the sponges so make sure to never clean them with tap water or else you'll kill them! You'll also need an air pump and some airline tubing to get the filter going. I've used all of these and it's a pretty simple and cheap setup.

To actually measure the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate levels, you'll need a test kit. I know some people and stores use strips, but they are hilariously inaccurate. You can have levels of 70+ ppm of nitrate (which is usually deadly) and the strips will tell you that you have 0 ppm. The liquid kit also lasts a lot longer! Your tank is cycled when ammonia is at 0 ppm, nitrites are at 0 pmm, and nitrates are at 0-20 ppm.

To make it easier to clean his tank, you can use a siphon. It sucks up the water for you, all you need is a bucket/tub to catch it in. Makes cleaning a lot less hectic!

Just a side note, Betta are actually tropical (and cold-blooded fish), so they need a heater. This is good for a 10 gal, it's what I use :) You can also get a glass or electronic thermometer to make sure the water is staying at the recommended 78-80 F. If you already have a water conditioner this is optional but Seachem Prime is what I use as it binds and neutralizes low levels of ammonia.

Here's the sub caresheet/wiki, and here's a guide to fish-in cycling (which basically just means cycling the tank with a fish already inside). I know this is a lot of info/expenses all at once but if you ever have any questions you're always free to PM me! I'm happy to help to the best of my ability. I'd recommend getting him a 5 gal or bigger ASAP, and with clean warm water his fins will be healing in no time :)

I’m sorry to say the above comments are right. Common goldfish get over 1 foot in length and are incredibly messy fish. They really belong in a pond, but you could theoretically keep one in 75 gallon (but a 90 gallon is the same footprint with a little more height, offering more water and therefore easier to keep clean). Really, they should have a tank that is at least 6 foot long and 18 inches wide, but a 75 (4 feet and 18 inches wide) would be the bare minimum. Anything narrower and the fish will have trouble turning around as goldfish get over 12-14 inches long if they are healthy. They will stay smaller if their growth is stunted, but this is extremely unhealthy for them and results in a much shorter lifespan. With a 75 or 90 gallon, be prepared to do 30-50% waterchanges every week (which should be pretty easy with a system like the python. You won’t need a heater, but you will need a great filter. I recommend a canister filter, but if that is out of your price range two of these or better yet two of these will work well. Goldfish are plant eaters so you won’t have to worry about plants, so you can get whatever light you like/what’s cheapest. Big tanks are expensive, but you can often find them used along with the stands (which saves a ton of money). You can also get a 75 gallon half off from Petco during the dollar-per-gallon sale, and then build your own stand (tons of plans online). For substrate, I would buy pool filter sand (very cheap and great for goldfish, it can’t get stuck in their mouths like gravel and it looks awesome, it’s easy to keep clean too). There are a lot of ways to cut costs, especially with a goldfish tank that doesn’t need a filter or fancy light. Feel free to ask any questions, and please do some research on the nitrogen cycle (introduction ) it’s the most important thing you can possibly learn as a new fishkeeper! You will need a test kit too, to test your water. Don’t bother with test strips as they are very inaccurate, go ahead and get this. If you want to cycle the tank quickly and without a hassle, this is the only one that really works. Welcome to the wonderful world of fishkeeping! Best of luck with your pet! Goldfish are lots of fun.


Edit: petsmart has a 75 gallon tank with stand, lid, and light for half off today for Black Friday (at $249 a screaming deal for a brand new tank!!) if you are interested.

Here’s a solutions- go to a local hardware store or tractor supply or landscape store and try to find an all purpose tub, storage tote, or practically any large container, somewhere around 30-50 gallons. Most of these tubs are fish safe, and are very cheap. For filtration use a large sponge filter and pump which are a very cheap and a effective alternative to normal filters. I wouldn’t worry about heat at the moment as this is meant to be temporary, and goldfish can handle it briefly. I wouldn’t but any decorations or substrate in the tub, just leave it bare. This setup is actually widely used in the goldfish hobby, so it’s a great choice.
Here’s the supplies list on amazon for your convenience, but keep in mind you could also go and look for these products cheaper elsewhere and don’t have to be the exact ones

Sponge filter-
Bacto-Surge High Density Foam Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GOFPX9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_D0G6AbC8B1HRS

Pump-
VicTsing 80 GPH (300L/H, 4W) Submersible Water Pump For Pond, Aquarium, Fish Tank Fountain Water Pump Hydroponics with 5.9ft (1.8M) Power Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EWENKXO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_J2G6Ab01249QW

Air tube-
Penn Plax Airline Tubing for Aquariums –Clear and Flexible Resists Kinking, 25 Feet Standard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002563MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l3G6AbXFY7BEV

Plastic Tub-
Rubbermaid Commercial FG424300BLA Structural Foam Stock Tank, 50 Gallon Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPBLAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_U5G6Ab4CHSP90

Cycling biology-
Fluval Biological Enhancer for Aquarium, 8.4-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPIZ8Y0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_26G6AbAR5QBRK

Yeah definitely - I did a fishless cycle for about a month, using only the Fluval overflow filter that comes with the tank. This was great for getting the bio filter stabilized, but the water flow was too strong for a Betta and the mechanical filtration was weak. So I went to my LFS and purchased a KollerCraft TOM Mini Filter, and ran the Fluval system simultaneously with the KollerCraft to ensure the bio filtration transferred to the KC. Since then, I unplugged the Fluval filter and have only run the KC - and it's much more effective filtration. As for lighting, the 7000k LED light that comes with the tank is fantastic, but it's too close to the water line in my opinion. I had nasty algae blooms for a couple weeks, then came across a fellow Redditor who 3D printed the extension for the Spec III. I immediately requested one and received it in the mail a few days later. The combination of the KC Tom Filter and the light extension has resulted in no algae for 6 months. The most important factor is water changes though, so you should be changing 20-30% of the water every few days to keep your water parameters in check. Does this help?

Not the snek, a Python

One of these

Heard good things about this: Python Siphon

Hooks right up to your faucet. This guy gives a pretty nice review about the set up and whatnot.

You may want to invest in a Python hose. It hooks straight up to your faucet. When you're removing water from your tank, it sends the water straight down your sink drain, but when you're adding water it connects to your faucet and goes to your aquarium.
No need for buckets, heaters or spilling water. Pretty easy.

They're a bit pricey but well worth it.
https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467132484&sr=8-1&keywords=python+aquarium+water+changer

> honestly, I wouldn't put him in there, get him something around 5g and he'll be soooo stoked. even a full gallon would be passable.

Agreed x100. Basing a 55 around a SINGLE FUCKING BETTA is a huge mistake imo. You can do so many cool things with a tank that size, why limit yourself to what gets along with the most basic of basic predatory fishes? You probably would not ever see the betta anyway, they become much less interested in you when they have a big tank + friends + things to look at inside the tank.

Also OP get yourself a python (for water changes) you'll thank me later.

I was intimidated by the line from the sink thing for years, and lugged 5 gallon buckets back and forth every week. I finally paid something like $40 for one of the large tubes that hooks up to your sink, and my life has been much better since -- as have my fish. Honestly, just get one of these (or something like it) right now: https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC You can save yourself a world of pain down the road -- I really wish I had done it sooner.

Brief exposure to chlorine while things are mixing up isn't going to hurt your fish. With all of the chemicals, I swirl them a few mls at a time in a pint glass full of tank water (I keep a "fish glass" next to the aquarium) then dribble that concentrated solution around the tank while I mix it in. My biggest concern is making sure the fish don't get a facefull of algae eliminator or something that could actually cause pain/damage them.

The water temperature is a little tricker. You can run back and forth between the sink and the tank and do water temperature comparisons before you actually flip the switch and send the water over. After it's flipped, I hold one hand under the "new" water coming out and another at the opposite end of the tank, and make any fine-tune changes I need to then.

First-timer in over his head here. Could use an assist with setup. The ultimate goal is setting up something my (soon-to-be) 2 year old daughter will enjoy watching.

Planning on purchasing:

Tank & Stand: Aqueon 45G tank ensemble - $250

Light: LED - Included with tank

Filter: MarineLand Penguin 200 Power Wheel - $21

Heater: Orlushy Submersible Aquarium Heater 150W - $18

Python: Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System - $40, 24 inch adapter - $10, [hook] (https://smile.amazon.com/Python-Spill-Aquarium-Gravel-24-Inch/dp/B004PBHX4G/ref=pd_bxgy_199_img_2/146-3053739-1242457?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004PBHX4G&pd_rd_r=42a7c2bc-877d-414d-b0c9-2960fa629e40&pd_rd_w=q7tkK&pd_rd_wg=fjx36&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=ZE4SB0SAMR7BKXT7Z4QW&psc=1&refRID=ZE4SB0SAMR7BKXT7Z4QW) - $20, and this adapter for my non-threaded faucet - $12

Conditioner: [API Water Conditioner] (https://smile.amazon.com/API-CONDITIONER-Aquarium-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2SD31AR7OVW3V&keywords=water+conditioner+aquarium&qid=1567987105&s=gateway&sprefix=water+condition%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-3) - $7

Bacteria: [API Quick Start] (https://smile.amazon.com/API-CONDITIONER-Aquarium-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2SD31AR7OVW3V&keywords=water+conditioner+aquarium&qid=1567987105&s=gateway&sprefix=water+condition%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-3) - $4

Test Kits: [API 5-in-1 Test Strips] (https://smile.amazon.com/5-IN-1-AQ-Test-Strips-100CT/dp/B077YS7Y4Y/ref=sr_1_3?crid=VPPBFJ1NJSMG&keywords=api%2Btest%2Bkit&qid=1567987538&s=gateway&sprefix=api%2Btest%2Caps%2C210&sr=8-3&th=1) - $26

That takes me up to $408. That leaves me about $100-150 in the budget my wife gave me to get decorations and the fish themselves. (It was supposed to be $500, but we always go slightly over budget)

Any recommendations on large and colorful fish that could attract and keep a toddler's attention? Preferably peaceful.

Any other recommended tweaks to the build? I haven't purchased anything yet, so I'm willing to completely scrap this and start over if somebody has a better idea of how to use the money.

I can't say much because you didn't specify what your parents are against and what you've done so far to try to convince them.

But from my experience (had to convince my parents too) collect as much information as possible and show it to them in a calm, non confrontational/emotional manner.

Info such as:

• Basic fish info: the nitrogen cycle & what the good bacteria does, stunting growth consequences
  
  
• Basic goldfish info: how long they live, how big they get, videos of happy & clean goldfish tanks such as Solid Gold on youtube
  
  
• Get an API liquid water test kit and and test the water. Have numbers to back you up!
  
  
• Tank size - do what purple_potato said. There are still a LOT of sites with misinformation that come up on the first pages of google so be careful! They might counter with that.
  
  
• Tank weight - How old is your house? What floor do you live in? Can the floor hold the weight of the aquarium? (75 gallons is about 850 lb with water. If you have fancy goldfish you won't need that big of a tank but if they're comets 75 is a good size, but realistically you won't be allowed to get a 75)
  
  
• Make a budget sheet. List all the expenses for the tank, filtration, heater (depending on where you live), air stone (if needed), water conditioner, siphon, food.
  
  How much money do you have? Be prepared to use your own money. Look around on craigslist/letitgo/etc for good tank deals. If you're short on money and can't find any good deals, consider using storage bins or other alternatives.
  
  Keeping it very clean, visually pleasing (eg live plants), and quiet (eg noise from the spray bar and air stones) also helps.
  
  Who's going to keep up with water changes and care? How old are you? Do you plan to move out soon? Since goldfish tanks are huge, water changes can quickly become a drag (unless you have money for a python or a similar setup) .
  
  Alternatively, find someone that will take the goldfish and get a betta or other suitable fish for a 10 gal. Happy fish and your parents still get to "care" for a fish!

https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC

​

Yes I am being serious. Goldfish are messy fish, they require an active owner.

It’s less than 50 actually

I have five tanks: 38g, 20,20,20,10. It takes me ten to 15 minutes to do 50% changes on three of my EI dosed tanks and 25% on my low techs. 👌🏼 my husband got it for me when my back was hurting from buckets, and it totally saved me.

In theory you could get yourself a few A/B valves like this. The problem is that the only way you can "suck water back in" is if you push it through the canister filter. Obviously the problem there is that you can't treat the water.

Though I'd suggest just getting a python. You just connect it to the faucet, turn the water on and switch it to "drain mode" to remove water from the tank. When you're done, reverse the flow and it'll start putting water into the aquarium instead. After all the new water is in the tank, you treat it and re-engage your filter.

https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC

I use this and it helps a lot. No buckets

https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC

Not sure if its available in UK, it is a couple of pounds over your budget but a very good gravel vac otherwise.

My life became a lot easier and my tank became a lot cleaner when I removed the substrate. Your turtle doesn't care about the rocks on the bottom of the tank, and it may try to eat any that are small enough.

That being said - it sounds like you guys are doing 100% water changes, which is overkill (and removes the bacteria that make up a good environment). Most people recommend 20-50% water changes depending on how dirty things are.

If the rocks are river rocks, then I'd just fill up a bucket with the rocks and carry that to strain/wash them. You can use a traditional hose with suction to empty dirty water, or something like this python aquarium cleaner. Basically you hook it up to your sink and can fill up a tank OR drain it using suction. You may not have a sink that has the right threading though - I had 2 apartments where it wouldn't work and now I need an adapter, but its amazing.

You could also get a better filter. Getting an external canister instead of the internal ones that hang on the side (which never stay on...) was a huge plus for me.

There are probably also water vacuums that would help. But I don't know of any.


Easiest thing though is to get rid of the substrate. Stick to doing 30%ish water changes instead of cleaning it completely. Perhaps upgrade your filter (you should probably have a filter rated for a 80+ gallon tank).

For gravel vacuums, what's the level of concern regarding using one like a python that hooks up to your faucet and auto-fills into your tank? I'm worried about the chlorine / chloramine.

Protip, this works amazing:

Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System, 50-Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NXM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ptMxybW8AQD8Y

If you don't have one, a Python water changer is the biggest time saver I have come across. There's also a 25 foot version for a bit cheaper if your tanks are closer to a tap.

I have 4 tanks ( 3 * 10g and a 29g), although I do have my girlfriend to help out. We keep a schedule as best we can - Saturday morning is water change day. If you don't have enough time to do all your tanks in one go you could split them up and schedule doing 1 or 2 tanks on one day, then another one the next or whatever works with your time.

Once a tank is fully cycled regular water testing becomes less important. I test nitrates regularly to make sure that my water change schedule is frequent enough but I only test ammonia and nitrite if something gives me reason to such as strange fish behaviour, illness or unexplained death. Same with pH, GH, KH... they get tested rather infrequently to make sure nothing is way out of balance but if there are any issues in the tank I'll test right away to be sure.

Are you having significant algae issues? Do you use fertilizers, co2, and what kind of lighting are on the planted tanks? Algae is often a sign of too much light.

I recommend this one make sure you get the large version that has the double sponges. Then you just connect an air pump with some airline tubing

Also I recommend getting a 10g since they are probably cheaper and more stable since you have a larger volume of water. And stable water means a higher survival rate of your shrimp.

For example here:
10 Gallon tank for 14,99 http://www.petsmart.com/fish/supplies/aquariums-and-stands/aquariums/grreat-choice-10-gallon-glass-aquarium-2831264.html

A double sponge filter which is good for twice the aquarium volume (cleaner water double sponge is double bacteria). for 3,99
https://www.amazon.com/XY-2822-Double-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium/dp/B005VAFGKI/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1478978662&sr=8-5&keywords=sponge+filter

An air pump for 5,59
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009YJ4N6/ref=pd_sim_199_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CWY7AKPMJBQJY3AXT7X2

25 feet tubing 3.23
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002563MW/ref=pd_sim_199_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CWY7AKPMJBQJY3AXT7X2

14,49 for a heater
https://www.amazon.com/Submersible-Aquarium-Heater-Freshwater-Saltwater/dp/B017UK0ZUW/ref=sr_1_25?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1478978931&sr=1-25-spons&keywords=10+g+heater&psc=1

That's twice the size for 42,40. You will only need to buy a light and those can be as cheap or expensive as you want but this not required and purely aesthetic again.

Why not just hook up your airlock to this:

https://www.amazon.com/Natural-System-Bubble-Counter-Suction/dp/B0002DI1W4

For your consideration: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00176GKM8/

I use this one in my 2.5g. Works well, small size, sucks up no shrimplets.

Any 2-5 gal AIO, where to top could be removed, would work, only you might need to upgrade light and flow, and make custom filtration media.

Reflex 15 and alike have too narrow back chambers, difficult to clean, not much space for custom media, no space for heater, and light holder can't be removed.

They usually cost around $100 or more, heater is not included, and many things should be replaced.

Low cost are glass bowls, if you can find them, how final result looks like see in the links here.

Hardware is limited to air pump, air tubing, heater and lid. If need less noise, smallest water pump. Tom internal filter for me, with rain bar and filter media cage removed, 45 gph.

Maintenance tools to hose, container and NanoMag (or DIY).

I know Indian Almond Leaves and weekly water changes is the cure. But I don’t know where he cut himself. I’m thinking maybe it’s the new filter I just put in there (Koller Products TOM Aquarium Internal Power Filter (45 GPH Flow Rate) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00176GKM8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_I8jKDb4E065GH). I just don’t know HOW he could cut himself on it. 🤔

The only other things I have in the tank are: driftwood (with no sharp edges), hairgrass (spikerush) and Amazon Compacta’s.

I guess I should try sponge filters again... But the one I had before didn’t really clean the tank and they make others, but they’re huge. Or too loud. My tank is 5 gallons, 9.6 in L x 9.8 in W x 15.3 in H and it’s just Semper with an otto.

Any recommendations on small sponge filters that clean well and quiet pumps?

• It's a 5 gallon (19l) all acrylic rimless tank.
  
  
• Light is a 23 watt 6500K CFL in a generic desk lamp.
  
  
• Filtration is a small in-tank power filter meant for 2-5 gallon aquariums with nothing but a sponge in it.
  
  
• Substrate is old, re-used CaribSea Eco-Complete
  
  
• I'm not using CO2 or organic carbon supplements.
  
  
• Fertilization is periodic additions of MaxiCrop water soluble seaweed extract and Iron DTPA.
  
  
• Water change regiment is 50% weekly, but I don't use fresh water, I take 2.5 gallons out and put it in my 120 gallon (454l) heavily planted system, and take 2.5 gallons from that system and put it in the little 5 gallon. This is also how fertilizers are added (I fertilize the big system only, the little system gets ferts indirectly through water exchanges). The big system gets periodic water changes with fresh water.
  
  
  
• Water Parameters:
  
  
• Temperature: 78F(25.5C)
  
  
• pH: 7.0
  
  
• TDS: ~200 mg/l
  
  
• I don't measure hardness, but my tap water is extremely hard (TDS is somewhere around 450 and pH is like 8.5 after reaching equilibrium with atmospheric gases).
  
  
• I mix the tap water 50/50 with R.O. , add some vitamin C to dechlorinate, and add a couple ml of muriatic acid (diluted HCl) for every 10 gallons (38l) of total water (half tap, half R.O) and let the batch of water sit with aeration for at least 1 day before using it.
  
  As for Stocking:
  
  
• Some kind of Anubias
  
  
• Some tall grassy plant. Maybe some kind of Val? I don't know many aquatic plants.
  
  
• Water lettuce floating on surface.
  
  
• Some unknown kind of snails that seem similar to standard pond snails, but have transparent, lightly spotted shells. You can see through the shell completely and see the air bubble the snails use to regulate their buoyancy.
  
  
• No fish or shrimp right now. I'm planning on adding shrimp eventually, I haven't settled on any kind of fish but am open to stocking suggestions. So far I haven't been able to convince myself 5 gallons is enough for anything other than a betta.
  
  
  
  -----------------
  
  Edit: The title says "new", but this has been running for about 2 months since I put the driftwood in and started adding crushed food for cycling. I've been tweaking it over those 2 months. I added the plants in about a month ago, and upgraded the light to a CFL from a halogen about 2 weeks ago. The plants have all rooted and are now growing rapidly (rapidly for low light, low tech anyway). The snail population grew from an un-seen egg cluster to about 15 adult snails, and has stabilized around there. I don't feed very much, just a tiny pinch of new-life spectrum small fish pellets that I've crushed up into a powder every couple of days.

You're probably not going to find real quantifiable data like that because there are so many factors including growth media and I'm not sure it scales up and down linearly.

I have:

• a 10 gallon tank; with two goldfish; a water jet; airstones; automated feeders; and an eheim filter- supporting two house plants
  Imgur (left side)
  
  
• another 4l0L (10 gallon) with two or three yoyo loaches (rescued); a panda catfish; and an algae eater- that supports a large windowsill planter of growth media holding mint/shisou/thai basil and has a eheim filter for extra biomass and 2 water jets; airstones in the tank and biomass area; and an automated feeder
  Imgur (middle)
  
  
• Finally an outside setup with 150 gallon tub with 5 goldfish (rescued) that runs through PVC pipe with about 10 net baskets with heads of lettuce and an automated koi-pond outdoor feeder.
  imgur
  
  These are all stable systems that have lasted about two years a piece
  
  ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Issues of any cruelty aside- this is fine as a starter/intro and you'll find that you'll likely want to upgrade as things work out- mostly because small systems are a lot harder to take care of.
  
  The thing with goldfish is that they put out a lot of ammonia (so in a small tank ammonia poisoning might be a thing) and the size of the container tends to cap their growth. But I wouldn't sweat the fish thing too much because a few of them might die due to the tank being new (although goldfish are extremely hearty) sketchy source: http://www.firsttankguide.net/newtanksyndrome.php
  
  It's hard to tell you straight away about how many fish etc because this aquarium system looks fresh and not yet cycled- ie. your aquarium probably doesn't have it's fill of microscopic plant life living in it and in the growth bed material you are using. Be aware you'll likely need to treat the new water you add into the tank. (chlorine remover etc) and that adding new water will have a relatively large effect on your tank due to it being compact. sketchy source: http://nippyfish.net/2009/05/27/cycling-a-small-aquarium/
  
  This means that you'll need to watch the amount of food you feed your fish carefully.
  
  100 grams of fish food will generally support about one square meter of plant life.
  sketchy source: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/aquaponics-knowing-the-fish-to-plant-ratio
  
  The great thing about what you are doing (cycling, establishing your grow bed as a bio filter) is that if you start a new tank, you'll be able to use this water and material to start out a larger tank faster (largely what you did by getting some of their gravel).
  
  --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Nice tips/ways to scale up or automate things to make your life easier:
  
  
• Petco often has dollar-per-gallon sales and there's usually tons of tanks on craigslist etc if/when you decide to scale up.
  
  
• Automatic feeders make the process less hands on:
  ie. http://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Fish-Feeder-AquaChef-Batteries/dp/B004249KFG
  
  
• A water pump to run the fish water through the growth media might do your tank very well and are quite cheap, this one is 8usd: http://www.amazon.com/Patuoxun-Submersible-Aquarium-Fountain-Hydroponic/dp/B00EU74MJY/
  
  
• Additional biomass:
  
  
• This filter (15usd) might add a little additional biomass, which makes your aquarium a little larger and helps breakdown the ammonia etc: http://www.amazon.com/TM1250-Aquarium-Internal-Power-Filter/dp/B00176GKM8/
  
  or
  
  
• (25usd) http://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Rapids-Canister-hang---tank/dp/B000YJ0M1E/
  
  
• Again waterflow (helps with algae) then something like this is about 9 usd: http://www.amazon.com/Submersible-Circulation-Maker-Water-Aquarium/dp/B009YEEW2K/
  
  Note: most of these links are sketchy- just conveying ideas in an easy to read/digestible format.
  
  

> http://imgur.com/gQ9Fory

Thank you sooo much! Please let me know. I am actually quite new to aquariums. The tank has been cycled for new fish. The fake plans are approved for betta, I even did the "pantyhose" test with the plants and logs. As for algae, I don't think it is, It's a live plant, and I'll go see. I usually have the light on for at least an hour. As for the bamboo....I am sad it has to go... The filter is located behind the tank, you can see a bit of it over the left side, it's black and it's this filter.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00176GKM8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Please. Educate me. By the way, anything on custom made decors? Perhaps a sealant for toys? I know some paint on toys are super dangerous so I haven't added any.

I got this jar from Amazon. They have larger 2 gallon jars if you're willing to pay $10 more.


As for the filter/heater, I had this small filter and heater. You can attach them to the side of the jar.


However, you don't really need any of those if you're just putting few shrimps and snails. If you pack it with java moss, it should sustain by itself.

It's a 3 gallon acrylic tank in the shape of a cylinder. Here's a link to it on Amazon. It's the biggest tank I could fit on my desk, and I bought it just for this purpose (shrimp). I figured the cylinder shape would work well since I could get more gallons without taking actual desk space.

I also grabbed this filter for it. The only thing I didn't consider was the lighting, as my other tanks both have upgraded lighting. What about some in-tank LEDs? How many watts per gallon with LEDs?

I use Python brand gravel siphons and have no complaints. The small is $5 on Amazon; large is $10. Their squeeze bulb siphon starter is a great add-on for $6 and I think they're totally worth the extra cost.

This 44 second video shows how deep gravel cleaning looks. I don't do it much as my tanks are planted but it's not hard to do. Just get the siphon going and push into the gravel, suck until the water coming up starts to become clear, then let the gravel out and push down elsewhere. It's kind of fun. 😊

If you can afford it I HIGHLY recommend this pump for dwc

https://www.amazon.com/EcoPlus-728450-Single-Outlet-Commercial/dp/B002JLJC0W/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1485748465&sr=8-7&keywords=air+pump

Here's my air pump just bought a new one yesterday as the old was getting weak after a year.

Here's my build with all the info

And yes, I use rDWC, and have it from seedling through finish.

looks good but id get a better air pump and a bigger air stone

http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-AAPA3-2L-2-Watt-3-2-LPM-1-Outlet/dp/B002JPDB5K/ref=pd_sbs_lg_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=01FR9HWZNQNCT0TNYDP4

is the pump included but i do not think 50 gph pump is enough for 4 big plants

http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-AAPA15L-6-Watt-15-LPM-Outlets/dp/B002JPEVMC/ref=pd_sbs_lg_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=01FR9HWZNQNCT0TNYDP4

this one is rated for more gph

you might also need aluminum tape to make the container light proof unless that blue color blocks out the light

An air pump and stone are cheap, and should solve your problem. Air bubbles are totally key in hydro reservoirs.

Also try to keep the temperature of your reservoir (and your whole grow area, unless you have CO2) below like 80F or you're gonna have a bad time. This applies to soil as well.

Consider trying a non-organic fertiziler. Organics are great and can give better results, but they expensive, and more likely to crap up your system and smell weird (in my experience).

Soil has a whole bunch of drawbacks IME. It can be stinkier indoors than a well run hydro system (especially if you use awesome worm teas and such). You'll probably get a lot more bugs, especially fungus gnats. You have to be more careful feeding the soil plants, because if you feed them wrong, it's not as simple to detect and fix as with hydro. It's also amazingly easy to overwater in soil.

You can get awesome results with soil or hydro. I personally prefer hydro because it's easier to keep clean (once you get a good routine set up), and the plants grow really fast with great results. If you really aren't cool with the hydro setup you've got going now, consider coco drain-to-waste instead of actual soil.

Lighting/Electric

1 - Apollo 180W LED Grow Light This thing is painfully bright, even when you're not looking at the light itself. Without a grow tent to block the light I wouldn't be able to share my office with this light when it was on. Previously I've had issues with the grow tent and HPS/MH lighting, since over heating quickly became an issue. I tried some solutions involving air ducting and vent fans, but these didn't really help a lot. These LEDs fortunately put out almost no heat, so I don't really need to ventilate in the tent.

2 - TaoTronics 25*3w LED Grow Light (They don't seem to sell it on Amazon any more). Sort of painful too, but not as bad as the other one. Tent or some sort of light-blocking device is recommended if you share a room with your greenhouse.

3 - EnviroGro 2 ft T5 Flourescent These things are awesome. Great value for the money and everything seems to thrive under them.

4 - 8 Outlet Programmable Power Strip Highly recommended! Way better than those timer ones.

5 - Hydrofarm 2 Outlet Air Pump which actually has splitters on the lines coming out of each outlet, so the pump is providing air to all four homemade units.

Hydro Units

A - 1 gallon bucket DWC currently growing brussels sprouts. No actual sprouts yet, but it seems to love the LED lighting. Slightly concerned about the space its trying to take up.

B - 1 gallon bucket DWC currently growing bell peppers. Peppers have just started blossoming earlier in the week and I've been vigorously vibrating the tree each morning to pollinate them. Got a few small peppers starting to come in already. Slightly concerned by how lopsided the plant is growing, but otherwise it seems to be thriving.

C - DWC I made from a tupperware container. Just planted some cilantro in there earlier. For some reason all of the Cilantro I've gotten previously has failed to germinate. This time around I put out about 30 cilantro seeds on a paper towel and waited until I saw some starting to sprout before planting. So far so good.

D - 2 site DWC unit I made from a storage bin. Just planted two additional basil there this morning since I am using much more than 2 plant's worth. Been making quite a bit of pesto lately.

E- 3 site Aerogarden currenly growing curly leaf parlsey. I took off the light that comes with the plant, since the T5s have a way higher output.

F - 7 site Aerogarden currently growing two basil plants and one oregano. Same as the three site aerogarden, I just use this for the base. This one can hold 7 plants, but I fine that having so many means they crowd eachother like crazy.

Tent

Mylar grow tent

Spend a few extra bucks and get an adjustable air pump it is worth it.

I have this one for $16 you'll forget you have it running in no time, I actually can't remember ever hearing it over the bubbling of my sponge filters.

like this? - https://www.amazon.com/XY-2831-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium-10-gallon/dp/B0056XVF82
do you think i'll have any luck finding something like that in the retail pet stores or should i just get it off of amazon?

I would suggest a couple of things. I'm a cheapskate at heart, so take what I say with a grain of salt. A 10G tank is a perfect starting volume, but I think you can do it with way less up front cost.

First, I'd hold off on the CO2 kit until your tank gets established and you determine that CO2 is needed. For a 10G tank, you may find that a DIY kit is fine. I personally got a CO2 setup, but only because I found this one on clearance for $5 (http://www.amazon.com/Nutrafin-Natural-System-Activator-Stabilizer/dp/B00026058Y). It's essentially a commercial version of the standard DIY kit, and it bubbles for 2-3 months per charge.

Second, you may want to stay away from the HOB filter. I've got about a half-dozen of them around the house, but I have found that I really like the sponge filters way better, especially if you want to keep your cherry shrimp babies from getting sucked up. They do an excellent job with biological filtration, and if you just squeeze/rinse one of them out each time you do a water change, it will do a decent job at mechanical filtration as well. Can't beat the price either. http://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-Filter-Fish/dp/B0056XVF82

I think your fish selection is great, but just wanted to note to you that Glowlight tetras are "moderately difficult to breed", so if you'd like a nice sustainable colony it may be worth checking out some of the livebearers. Nothing like buying 5 fish and then having 30 in a few months... I'm currently raising Endler's guppies. The males really make the tank pop, and they stay small so having 20-30 in the tank isn't too much bioload.

For plants, I think you've got the right idea with starting with some HC and then add more later. I'd also search around a bit and see if there is a local aquarium group. Trading is way better than buying... after going to my local Aquatic Plant Club monthly meeting I always walk away with 5-7 plants that I didn't have before. Your job will then be to grow like crazy to bring more back to the group for the ever-present "new guy" to get started.

For 3D supports, you may want to check out using "egg-crate", or lighting diffuser. It's dirt cheap from Home Depot and will hopefully keep the water/sediment from stagnating underneath your mountains.

Hope this helps, I'd try to spend as little as possible until you identify areas that need improvement.

Can't say for certain if that will be good. It might create too much current. I've had good luck with https://www.amazon.com/XY-2831-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium-10-gallon/dp/B0056XVF82

If you go filterless try using a wood diffuser, they put out finer bubbles than the regular kind, which should cut down on the flow. Also go for the smallest air pump you can find, this will probably make the biggest difference.

I have this bubble filter, and if you put the spout above the water the bubbles pretty much pop on impact with the water.

I don't think it's the size of the bubbles that really matters, I would be more worried about making a choke point, if the bubbles start to build up, you're not going to be moving any water. But i've never tried putting something on the outflow of mine.

I've kept Bettas on a budget before- there are some things that you really do need, and some things you can do ugly and cheap. The trouble is that you're starting with two and have limited space, a bad combination. I'd suggest you really try hard to rehome at least one, but proceeding on the idea that you're absolutely determined to keep both, I'll lay out the least expensive way to get things done in my experience.

To pick up now:

-Dechlorinater/water conditioner: In your grandma's days, there were fewer additives in water than they are now, and not all of them gas off when left to sit out. If you absolutely can't afford even a tiny container of prime, which can really help in small tank situations because it temporarily neutralizes ammonia- then pick up a cheaper water treatment. Most pet stores carry generic ones, or API is $4 and change on amazon. Can't emphasize enough how much better prime would be though. The smallest bottle should last you for a couple months, so don't worry too much about volume.

-If you can do it, Petco's dollar/gallon sale is the best value you're likely to get on a 10G, as mentioned. Failing that, check your local thrift stores. I think a 10G would be ideal for you if you can make it work- it'll be cheapest and the least amount of maintenance, if you use dividers. Here's a way to make mesh dividers for it yourself from things you can pick up at any craft store, for a couple bucks total (you can also make lids out of the same material). I've made these before and as long as you measure them right, they work fine. If you absolutely can't get or fit a 10g, you bare minimum need about 3g per betta in separate containers or you'll be courting ammonia burns and finrot super quickly. Bowls aren't ideal, but if you're doing a temporary setup they may be easier to find. Be creative if you have to- you want something with horizontal swimming space, rather than vertical (avoid anything taller than it is long), but there are all kinds of odd glass vessels at your average salvation army. A ~3.5 gallon spherical bowl is going to be 12" in diameter. Anything with flat sides, measure and calculate the rough volume in cubic inches, then convert to gallons. Whatever you get, clean it thoroughly. If you use bleach, let it sit out in the sun for a few hours before filling it with water.

-Hides: Cheapest part. In college I had a Betta setup with a half-buried coffee mug and some silk plants from Michaels in it. Grab a couple mugs at the thrift store or throw in your least favorites. You want ceramic not plastic or metal, minimal or no paint if possible. Bury them halfway in the substrate. Craft store silk plants are inexpensive and are fine in a pinch, just boil them first. You want at least some that reach up to the top of the tank, to give them cover at all levels.

-Substrate: Whatever's cheapest is fine. A 5lb bag of imaginarium sand will run you $5 or so at petsmart. If you have a local fish store, they may sell gravel or sand in bulk for cents to the pound, so you could call around and ask. Whatever you use give it a quick rinse before adding it.

-Here's a $10 adjustable amazon heater. If you're doing two 5 gallons, get two 25 watts. A 10 gallon divided, get the 50 watt. A heater goes a long long way to keeping your fish healthy- once you need to start buying medicine your budget is blown. You won't see many non-adjustable ones for much less than this, and they're less reliable since they heat at a constant rate regardless of water temp. Get a cheap glass thermometer with it, they're in any big-box pet store.

To pick up soon:

-Filters and pumps: Sponge filters are the way to go in small betta setups for sure, and they are extremely cheap online. Here's one for $2 for a 10G; here's the one I use in my 7G for $4. Make sure to carefully read the guide on cycling before you put a filter in, because things will get less stable before they get more stable, which is why in your situation I'd be vigilant about water changes (see the caresheet for frequency) and put off the filter til you can afford an API test kit. Because things can spike so so fast, it's really not advisable to run through a fish-in cycle blind in any small tank. You'll pair it with an air pump, this one's $7.

-API master test kit: This is the most expensive thing on the list, which is the only reason it's under later. API also makes test strips, but they're $10 for a pack of 25, wheras the master test kit has far far more uses in it for $20 and is much more accurate. Knowing your water parameters is good any day, but essential once you introduce any kind of filter.

Altogether I think you could get this kind of absolute barebones setup done for around $30 up front and $30 later if you play your cards right, less if you find a home for one fish. It'll still require elbow grease to put together, though.

You could get something like this, or even something half that size, and then a super cheap air pump. Sponge filters are air driven. But yeah, for ten or fifteen bucks you could easily have a good sponge filter set up. They are great for shrimp and most serious shrimp breeders use them.

Good on you for taking the poor guy!

First, the spots don't really look like ich. Ich is more like the fish has salt grains sprinkled on them. The spots on the this guy look like either fungus or bacteria. Also, from the picture, it looks like he has some pretty bad fin rot and he's very pale.

I see an air pump, is it hooked up to anything in the tank? I don't see a filter, but you can use that air pump to set up a sponge filter.

The tank itself looks to be ok, although a very odd shape... I'm thinking it's probably 2.5-3 gallons which is alright for a betta (though 5 gallons is ideal)

Honestly, if there's no filter or bubble stone, I'd do a 100% water change, rinse the gravel really well to get any detritus out (judging by the state of the tank, I'm sure there's a lot...). Until you get a filter, you should do 50-75% changes every day. Look up fish-in cycling as well. I'm sure we have a link in our wiki. Scoop the little guy into a holding cup while you change the water, then slowly acclimate to the cleaner water. With his compromised immune system, too much stress may be a death sentence.

Like I said about the spots, it looks like a fungus or bacterial infection. Bacterial is more common and would fit with the MO of fin rot, so I'd start with that for treating. Any antibacterial would be good, but get him in clean water first.

Can you take a pic of the heater?

As far as buddies go, a single snail or a few shrimp would be fine with him. Nerite snails are one of my favorites. They eat all kinds of algae, lay eggs that don't hatch in freshwater, come in lots of colors, and stay relatively small. DO NOT do a mystery snail, they get huge and produce a lot of waste. Ghost or amano shrimp are good choices. Shrimp are much more sensitive to water quality though, so make sure you get the tank fixed before adding anything.

Finally, definitely get this test kit. You'll need it for cycling and is much more accurate and cost effective than strips.

My only guess would be something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Rhinox-Nano-CO2-Diffuser-Pressurized/dp/B0058XWDFO/

That's about 1 x 2 inches. It's your basic diffuser - you'll get lots of micro bubbles, it's not the most efficient, but it should work.

I have a DIY I built from googling for my 15g. It is a constant pain in the ass to get the mixtures right for given surface agitation and bioload. And then every time you want to make a change, you have to wait a day for the mixture to restart. And if you are using CO2 to lower pH, this causes wild pH swings. And, you can't turn it off at night.

Save yourself pain and buy a real setup:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001DTNWF2?pc_redir=1407847266&robot_redir=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0058XWDFO/ref=pd_aw_sims_5?pi=SL500_SS115&simLd=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0085282UK/ref=pd_aw_sims_2?pi=SY115&simLd=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008UCOFJW/ref=pd_aw_sims_1?pi=SY115&simLd=1

$175 with prime.

EDIT: Jesus I totally forgot about the leaks. Constant leaks in the DIY system. I had several seals give after several weeks of use. So you are never safe. I think I currently have zip ties holding my overflow lines together.

I would recommend just going ahead and getting a regulator for the CO2. I tried DIY for a few months and it was always a pain and messy.. not to mention it looked gaudy.

Grab a Aquatek regulator (mini or normal) and a paintball tank from your local sporting goods store (Dick's or Academy). I personally don't know if you'd need one or two regulators and tanks since its a 20 long. I've only dealt with 10g and lower using CO2.

Anyways that's my take, I'm no expert and I don't know your budget but that should be less than $100 a tank / regulator.

As for the other stuff, I don't know sorry :(.

Edit: For diffusion methods get one of these bad boys: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058XWDFO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I run this set up on all of my < 10 gal tanks:

regulator with solenoid

co2 tank

adapter

diffuser

drop checker

Add to that any tubing rated for co2 and you’re good to go

alright!

So after many months of planning and figuring out what i waned to do, I finally decide to bite the bullet and get into the planted tank hobby (I kept ranchus before this).

If you guys have any tips or anything advice that would help me out much appreciation!

For right now I am waiting for the drawf hairgrass carpet to grow out, and my piece of wood to become waterlogged so it doesn't float.
I tied down java moss so the wood looks like a tree.

Dont judge me, I know its hella cliche, but i think it would look good.

I am replacing the HOB with a canister filther (Finnex px-360) and using lily glass pipes for my intake and output, so i can achieve that more minimalistic vibe.

For those wondering my CO2 set up, I am using [this] (https://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/co2-systems/products/archaea-co2-regulator-pro-single-gauge-fits-cga-320), so far its pretty good. It has the adapter so i can connect to a 5lb paint ball co2 canister. I have it connected to a timer, so its pretty hands free system.

The only thing I want to change is my CO2 diffuser, its good for its price point(only 10.99). But I feel like if I spend a little more I could get something better.

If you guys want links to what I have bought:

CO2 regulator

Glass lily pipes (still havent arrived so I dont know if they are good, I have heard mixed reviews about it)

CO2 Indicator

Canister filter


Tank

And all the plants i got from aqua forrest in SF

Amazon has a bunch of different brands, types, etc.
Glass Drop Checker Kit –- with pre-Mixed 4dKH & pH Reagent - 3-Minutes' Setup - 3 Seconds to Read Result - Fastest Way to Ensure Sufficient Co2 in Planted Aquarium - Color Change Reflects CO2 Level https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005C74ZCA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OB7PCbV4AS2S7

After a couple weeks of researching the same thing, I wound up assembling my own rather than getting a kit. I have a 60g with a 5lb tank that I got from a local welding supply store that fits nice in my compact cabinet. Tank cost $60 and $15 to fill/refill. Attached to that is this regulator which I run on a wemo plug to come on only when the lights are on. I use this diffuser (which I think is overkill). All connected by this CO2 proof tubing. Finally, I use this drop checker. Less than $200 invested. It's silent except for the instant that the solenoid switches off/on. I have to trim plants a couple times a month. At two bubbles/sec, I get about 6-8 months between tank refills. Slightly cheaper option may include a paintball tank with adapter.

I used this airpump with a sponge filter for a while. Low humming noise, not much worse than white noise. Switched to an HOB Aquaclear which for me has been even quieter! Starts off a little rattle-y at first (I had to remove the lid to prevent the noise) but after 2 weeks the only sound is water from the output pouring out and I could keep the lid on it.

The Piezoelectric ones you can get are damn near silent and I've never had them get louder as they age. They're far less powerful than the traditional magnetic pump type, but really cannot be heard unless you're listening for it specifically in a very quiet room. I've run air stones and small sponge filters just fine from the lower volume rated HPumps one on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTSR8Y8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_76aRAbZPAR4HR). Currently just running an air stone in a 40 breeder with this, but those are pretty shallow tanks so that helps. If OP is doing a smaller tank, then this might be an acceptable trade-off.

For the far side, a few options:

1. tiny power filter https://www.amazon.com/Deep-Blue-Professional-ADB88700-Aquarium/dp/B00BUFTI6Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467385633&sr=8-1&keywords=deep+blue+professional+filter (lfs guy has these on his mini shrimp tanks)
   
   
2. sponge filter: https://www.amazon.com/Bacto-surge-Foam-Filter-Large/dp/B00GOFPX9I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1467385683&sr=8-2&keywords=sponge+filter
   
   
3. another sponge filter option: https://www.amazon.com/XinYou-Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-XY-2821/dp/B009V3UGDS/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1467385683&sr=8-8&keywords=sponge+filter
   
   
4. the wildcard (interesting product, no experience with it) https://www.amazon.com/Hydrodynamic-Perfecto-Marineland-Aquarium-Filtration/dp/B01BI02JMC/ref=lp_13691185011_1_2?srs=13691185011&ie=UTF8&qid=1467385743&sr=8-2
   
   
   ---
   
   for the middle one: https://www.amazon.com/Jardin-Aquarium-Stone-Sponge-Filter/dp/B008FLWY5U/ref=sr_1_29?ie=UTF8&qid=1467385522&sr=8-29&keywords=sponge+filter+jardin
   
   should be more than enough, get the 99c control valves or a 'hub' to dial in the airflow to each. (cheapest in box stores or walmart)

I'd highly recommend using a sponge filter rather than a hang on back. Small fish can get sucked into the intake and others can have their fins ripped by them. Sponge filters are also cheaper and lower maintence in the long run.

Something like this

https://smile.amazon.com/Powkoo-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium-Gallons/dp/B010PRHDWK/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=sponge+filter&qid=1568174811&s=pet-supplies&sr=1-18

I also personally like tetra whisper pumps the most and always use a check valve

this is what i'm using in all my tanks. if that's too big, this is a good alternative.

NEVER buy this. the connection for the air tube is too big and is nearly impossible to get a tube on.

https://www.amazon.com/XinYou-Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-XY-2821/dp/B009V3UGDS/ref=sr_1_11?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1465774279&sr=1-11&keywords=sponge+filter

Hook an air filter to that and you're good to go. I'm actually using 4 of the larger ones in my 20gallon partitioned tank.

http://imgur.com/ft6R7F7

and that's the only filter I'm using. Shrimps don't produce a lot of waste so a sponge filter works fine.


Here's my 2.5G tank setup:
http://imgur.com/zSssxHq

I got this regulator which has worked very well for me. It has both high and low pressure gauges, built in bubble counter, and check valve with solenoid. Last last part is key because you can put it on a timer. CO2 at night is basically useless and can potentially raise levels too high (and it decreases the frequency of needing a refill.)

Co2 tubing, I reccommend any of these diffusers, and then if you want you can get a co2 indicator. Other possible buys are a better check valve and bubble counter.

Due to the small size of a 3.5g, this may suit a bit better in terms of fit.

Alternatively Aqualighter's aLift sponge filter is similar and may (subjectively) look better.

Finally, if sound is an issue; I am running an aquaclear HOB with a makeshift prefilter sponge on my 3.5g cube (CRS) which is much quieter than a sponge filter.

Basically, you need a tank, a regulator some airline, a bubble checker would be good to have and a diffuser. Also, you'd like a timer of some sort as you really do not need to have co2 running 24/7 nor would you probably want to.

My setup:

• 24oz Paintball co2 tank: $30 at paintball shop filled with co2.
  $23 dollars on Amazon - though I would have still needed to get it filled at paintball shop for $5 which brings it $28. $2 more - i think it's better at that to support the local shop and plus I didn't want to wait for the tank to come to my house as that would have arrived later than anything else.
  
  
• Adapater to utilize paintball co2 tank - $9 on Amazon
  
  
• Bubble Counter - $10 on Amazon I know the regulator has a bubble counter, however with the paintball tank it would not work as it'll be horizontal instead of vertical - you can choose cheaper ones. I just liked this $10 one. Btw a bubble counter will show you how much co2 you're adding or at least how fast as not every bubble counter counts it at the same pace but a good gauge to see how much you are adding - ie. you really cannot ask how many bubbles per second you should be running. the 1-2 bps that I run might be different on your bubble counter)
  
  
• CO2 Regulator - $60 on Amazon
  
  Price for this setup: $109
  
  If you need a timer, there's plenty of options. I already had one, but you can find them on Amazon.
  
  
• I was able to get this one as an add-on for $3.54 for something else though now it's $14.50 :/ and ironically I switched to a smart switch idea for my build anyways.
  
  
• Got this smart switch to control my autodoser and some other things -if it works it's a good $20 spent.
  
  Though in the end, you would need a timer and if you already have one then you won't have to buy one. Or if you have extra smart switches either that you can set a schedule on.
  
  Other tanks:
  
  Instead of the paintball tank you can get a regular co2 tank:
  
  
• 5lb from Amazon - $62 + ~$20 to fill at an air place It would have brought my setup to $141 if I went that route. It might be $50 more than the paintball tank, but it only increases price by $40 because you don't need the adapter nor the bubble counter. Pros: It could be cheaper. 24oz paintball is $5 to fill(in most places) a 5lb which is ~80oz can be anywhere from $10-$20. If it's on the lower end of that range where you live it's cheaper. Other pro is that less often you need to fill it. Negative: Larger and harder to hide. It won't fit in my setup or how I have my tank setup.
  
  Of course, that's just buying the stuff to build the system.
  
  You can watch videos about it on Youtube like Aquarium Co-Op's Co2 guide but I can still try to break it down.
  
  Get tank and properly secure it to the regulator.(I'd recommend watching a video on that as the regulator does need to be open for this part apparently). If using the paintball tank, secure the adapter to regulator first. DO NOT secure it on the paintball tank first. If you do it with the way the adapter is built, I'm guessing you'd be losing a bit of co2. Though, I haven't tried it, I'm logically thinking that it ain't good. If you use a 5lb tank or larger, there's something about some disc or gasket or something that is supposed to help keep it from leaking. I'm going to refer you to youtube on that one. I didn't use any on my paintball setup except for the gasket already on the tank. I did use some plumbers tape on the adapter to regulator though. I'm just hoping I don't have a leak and I'd be pretty confident to assume that I don't as I still have CO2 in my tank after a couple of weeks.
  
  All you need to do now is to attach the airline hose(some people will say to use co2-proof hose to prevent co2 loss, but I decided to skip that and you can decide what you wish to do as I might be right or wrong on that part along with other people who claim airline tube is sufficient) to the regulator. So after you attach the hose to the regulator, attach the bubble counter somewhere along the line before the aquarium(I think I did that right). Of course, if you use the 5lb or larger tank, you should be able to use the bubble counter that came with the regulator as it would stand vertical. The line eventually gets connected to a co2 diffuser which will break up the co2 into smaller bubbles to easily be dissolved better into your water. Of course, there are other ways to get the co2 into your tank, but this is the way I do it. Youtube can show you other ways, or other redditors for that matter. One thing to note is that you should also have a check valve to prevent water from going from the aquarium to your system. It should most likely be closer to the water than the co2 system. The bubble counter I use, also has a check valve for whatever that one is worth. Some diffusers come with bubble counters and check valves as well. Speaking of diffusers, i forgot to add that to my price. but that can run anywhere from $5 on up. Also the diffuser might have to be cleaned due to algae once and awhile.
  
  The system should be ran using a timer to coincide with your light cycle and should run basically when the lights are on. I turn my co2 on 1 hour before the lights turn on and turn it off 2 hours before the light turn off. Hypothetically, you can run it 24/7 however it's better not to as the risks are a bit too much for putting something in your tank that is not being used as the plants typically don't use co2 with the lights out and you can risk running into a situation where you deplete the oxygen in your fish.
  
  Overall, I think it's worth it at least for me. But also be cautious that adding too much co2 might be detrimental to your fish. If you are running it and your fish are all gasping for air, you definitely are putting too much in but you should never get it that far which some way to check it would be a good purchase for this. I just use the method of figuring out the ppm of CO2 based on pH and KH. I'm not sure how accurate it might be but it has been stable and my fish are doing fine as well as my plants and the algae is at bay. There's also what's called a CO2 drop checker that you can purchase to measure this.
  
  If you really want to get into this, I'd recommend researching it further yourself and maybe wait on some other more "experienced" redditors to answer as I might and could be wrong on some things. I know I've read some people don't think the ph/kh calculation method is good and to buy a drop checker, but I'm pretty confident in using it for my tank but I might be undosing the co2 for all I know. Though on the flipside, I could be overdosing, though my fish are not showing any signs of symptoms of said overdosing. But I could be wrong on that. If I am, please let me know. :) Definitely do your own research, like you should on anything. :) At least, get a good footing and confirmation from other sources.

Fluval sells this simple kit. It does get expensive replacing their specialized cartridges, but it's a good place to start if you're only ready to get your toes wet.

If you want to go bigger, it'll cost more upfront, but is cheaper to maintain.

Amazon Shopping list for CO2 under $200:

Cheap Regulator. There are better/nicer/higher quality ones out there. This one is cheap and okay.

Drop Checker

Diffuser

Check Valve

CO2 tubing

Thread tape

Adjustable wrench

5lb cylinder less than $15 to fill at gas supply store

What size tank is that? In my experience you have to seriously overdose iron to keep even a reddish color, I use seachem iron added to the minor elements while estimative index dosing. With that light if your tank is less =< 18" tall, you will need some carbon added. You may be able to get away will excel for a bit but long term going with an "estimative index" fert and co2 injection will be cheaper and easier.

Also, swords are heavy root feeders so you definitely need to get some root tabs for them the grow and flourish.

This is my current co2 setup that's easy to put together and only cost a few dollars every few months to fill for my 29g:

Empire Paintball 24oz CO2 Tank - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XKFQCM

AQUATEK CO2 Regulator Mini - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008TJCPSY

Fluval Ceramic 88g-CO2 Diffuser - 3.1 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GCO35G (Note you can choose a different diffuser if you want)

AQUATEK CO2-Proof Tubing 16 Feet - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008UCOFJW

Fluval CO2 Indicator Kit - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052M9886

You'd need:

A diffuser and bubble counter (this has both in one and is one I use. Work VERY well in my 10g.

Tubing

A check valve. I do not recommend skimping out here There's also this bubble counter/check valve combo.

And a drop checker

The drop checker is essential for noobs like us. Purists will say you don't need it but I don't want to risk gassing my fish.

Also, I think the regular you linked has a bubble counter and check valve! I just read it's description

Ask away of you have more questions! I have two tank with co2. On my 10g, both my light and regulator are plugged into the same timer and it works fine.

I use the adaptor for the paintball setup, I used to play paintball so had a tank, what I forgot was how easy o-rings get damaged and after a weekend of setup needed new ones to run the adaptor, messing and checking for leaks meant putting the tank on and off. Got a 100 pack of o-rings and been using that adaptor and the rather cheap wyn co2 regulator off Amazon of the same colorway.

At the price of the linked kit, I probably saved a little, piece parting only took a little time, assurance of a more expensive regulator may be a comfort, I knew how they should work and researched mechanism to know I could mess with the one I got if I had a problem.

Rhinox Glass Drop Checker

Aquario Neo CO2 Diffuser S

Adapter

[CO2 Regulator] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D4MBF4Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_w1RTVFzwfDilY)

[Indicator Solution ] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072MJBNLX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_MHSRWpefnxKji)

Tubing 16 Feet

[100 o-rings]
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009HI6F3W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)

We have a lot of folks on here using the aquatek regulators and they are ok. Those come with a solenoid, so like krattalak stated, you only have tubing(which is cheap on amazon), drop checker, and ceramic diffuser(also pretty cheap). I highly recommend a check valve and use a brass fitting instead of the cheap ceramic ones that tend to warp and compress.

I was recommended this Beamswork light on here awhile ago and it has been great for me for the last year or so. If you are looking for a budget light this one has been great for me so far.

As far as co2 goes it is super easy to do honestly. It only cost me about $100 to set mine up and it is great knowing I can put almost any plant in and it has a chance. I am currently starting a carpet in my tank since I've had the co2 setup for awhile. Here is my setup:

But here is a copy pasted comment explaining my setup and links to all the parts I used that I gave to someone else:

Ok. I'll try to type out my whole setup.

The biggest parts of the setup are the tank and regulator. I use an Empire/Tippman co2 tank with a Double Sun Hydroponics Regulator.

Now, aquarium regulators aren't made with paintball tanks in mind, but most sporting goods stores won't refill tanks above 24oz due to safety reasons. So instead of buying a 5lb tank that no one can refill, I just use a simple Aquatek Paintball co2 adapter to attach the regulator to the tank I have. So for that part of the setup you just attach the adapter to the regulator and then after you fill your Co2 tank attach the tank to the adapter, done (make sure the regulator is plugged in and everything is tightened if you have already filled the co2 tank). Do not attach the adapter to the Co2 tank first, the adapter opens the tank so you'll just empty your Co2 into the air. So attach everything to the Co2 tank last lol.

I also use teflon tape on the tank threads and adapter threads just to help prevent any loss of co2 through the adapter. It probably wouldn't leak without it but I would rather be sure so I just wrapped up both pieces before the install.

Now that you have your regulator/tank setup we just need to get the co2 into the aquarium. I attach Aquatek co2 tubing to the bubble counter that comes attached to the regulator and attach it to a Rhinox check valve, this prevents any water from getting to the regulator, then run co2 tubing from the check valve to a Rhinox co2 diffuser, this condenses the co2 into tiny bubbles so it absorbs into the water.

Boom, almost done. We have co2, we are getting it into the tank, but now how do we know how much? We need a NilocG co2 drop checker and some Drop Checker Solution to put in it. This will come with a card that says the proper colors. I would suggest starting with low co2, check the next day, if the drop checker is still blue, increase the co2 a tiny bit and check again the next day, repeat until it turns green, yellow is bad and you might gas your fish so don't increase co2 too much at a time to protect the fish.

Regulator, bubble counter, dual gauge, needle valve built in one. - $57.99 - I've read the more expensive the better, but this one has worked great for me.

Inline Diffuser - $39.99 - I use this to attach to my tubing on the canister filter. Much cheaper if you go with a regular diffuser that goes inside the aquarium.

C02 Tubing - $9.99.

I bought a 5 gallon filled C02 tank from a local welding store for about $60.

​

You probably want to do 20% to 25% daily water changes. At this point you're not worried about killing the beneficial bacteria, but removing the harmful waste your fish are producing (pee and poop).

Not sure what your set up is but I bought one of these a few months ago. Totally worth it.

If you have the money to spend I would recommend the Python. It hooks up to your sink so it's just a matter of pulling some levers.

Other wise, ten gallon storage containers + armless rolling chairs work well for me. Dechlorinate in the ten gallon then use one gallon containers to pour the water into the tank. And a siphon is a must!

In addition to what the previous poster said about cycling the tank before you get your axolotl(s), I recommend a canister filter for a 20g tank.
I use this one: Penn Plax Cascade 500 GPH Canister Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DJIQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_z1TDybRH4D83H
It comes with a spray bar to help with aeration without disturbing your axolotl(s). I used a small hanging filter at first but it did not do the trick. Every time I chemically tested the water it was far from the correct conditions. The information for replacement filter media is either included or easy to find.

I also can't recommend this enough:
25 Foot - Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_P3TDyb818ZDDW
It attaches to a sink faucet (you will need a tool to remove the aerator on the faucet) and will both drain and fill your aquarium and save you a ton of time. It disturbs the water way less than lugging containers back and forth. My axolotls don't care about it at all, sometimes they would stay right in front of the tube as it was pouring water. They make different lengths, so measure the distance between your tank and sink before you purchase it. You'll want a little slack, of course.

Get a bottle of dechlorinator for when you do water changes. A digital aquarium thermometer is crucial for making sure the tank stays below 68°F. Having a separate container and a net is helpful in case you need to take the axolotl(s) out for salt baths, tank maintenance, or fridging.

Live plants are good for the tank's ecosystem but having some additional fake plants gives the tank a nice look. Make sure your live plants are either the floating kind or you have them secured because axolotls snuffle and bobble around and have a tendency to pull up your plants. If you feed them frozen bloodworms (as adults) it's helpful to have a clear turkey baster so that you can suck up the worms and feed them easily and make sure that the baster is always clean. Make sure you have something to clean up their poo, like a designated spoon or something.

I had sand for a while but it's a little hard to keep clean, so I removed all my sand recently and my axolotls seem to like it better. I replaced all their decor recently (because they're spoiled, lol) and one of mine really likes all of the new hides and the other really likes all of the new places to climb. They really like laying on top of their plants for some reason? So get sturdy plants I guess.

If your local temperature is hot and humid, you'll probably want to invest in (or build) some kind of chiller because evaporative cooling with fans won't work in high humidity. If it's hot but mostly dry, you might be able to get away with fans and an insulator (like this guy did: https://youtu.be/zp6QhXArIEY). I built one slightly better by using two layers of foam core instead of cardboard, and cut the sides of the four panels so they sort of puzzle-pieced together, making it easier to check on them.

I apologize for the lots of scattered info but I hope it helps!

Get a Python No-spill Clean and Fill. Best money I ever spent in the hobby, seriously.

It sort of depends really. They have specific needs, but they aren't too difficult to care for. I have a python water changer and it takes most work out of fishkeeping.

Once your tank is established (fishless cycling is the best way to do this) you only need to do a 20% water change weekly. I hook up the python, turn on the water (this creates a syphon/vacuum), then vacuum the gravel (using the python) while removing 20% of the water. Next you set the tap water temperature to the same as your tank. Put chlorine/chloramine remover into your tank, then you turn the end on the python, it makes the water go through the hose and into the tank. Once it's full, you shut it off and your all done.

It sounds kind of like a long process, but to clean and water change a 20 gallon tank, it takes about 3-5 minutes or less a week.

Really the key is to not overstock your tank and have good filtration. Good filtration makes for easy maintenance and happy healthy fish.

Siphoning tube just goes into a bucket and you have to carry, where a python has a valve you can switch so it drains into and out of your sink: https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC

Currently I use this: https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC , you plug it to your tap (mine is plugged in the bathtub, it doesn't fit properly, so I use duct tape, but it works!)

You don't need to let tap water sit for outdoor vegetable gardens.

Two alternatives:

1. http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-attach-your-garden-hose-to-the-kitchen-faucet
   
   
2. https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC

python no electronics it uses a Venturi pump, it basically uses water flow to get suction

Have you considered a python water changing system? I love mine, it's saved my back for sure. Plus you can get the tubing from any hardware store too!

The obvious answer, but if you want to save a few bucks or dont have a sink close by this one works with a bucket...

Get one of these: 25 Foot - Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gZxtybDR5SQEG

You need to treat the water as it goes in, though. Once the tank is established and you do smaller water changes, I usually put the chemicals in as I'm filling from the tap. But I know the parameters of our tap water and know exactly what will need to go in as far as pH balancing etc.

The main thing is really just to monitor everything closely. Check the water from your tap before you move the tank. The nice thing about the python is that it aerates the water so that there isn't as much chlorine before it hits the tank. But you still need to add a water conditioner (I like Seachem Prime).

For the first adding of water, you want to preserve as much of the microscopic flora and fauna as possible. In my original comment I didn't add this, but don't scrub the tank or remove the sand if you can because colonies of beneficial bacteria live there. And then slowly add water of the proper temperature and acclimate your fish as slowly as possible.

I use a syphon hose. Right here on amazon

I would like to add that I live in Spokane,WA. And use tap water every time.

After every water change I treat my water with Stress Coat

I own 1 Oscar, 1 Red Jewel Cichlid, 1 Convict and 1 Pleco in my 75g.

As far as moving the fish, nothing changes when you go bigger. The steps listed above are perfect. My best advice is, if the fish store can hold the fish for you until you set up your tank at home, do that. Other than that you're just at a race against time from the moment the fish go into the bags. You benefit from being close to your LFS, so don't worry! And post pics when its done!

As far as your dechlorinator goes, check out Seachem Safe in place of Seachem Prime. It is essentially the powdered form of Prime so it is more concentrated and lasts forever. That 250g container treats something insane like 50,000 gallons of water where the 500mL bottle of prime treats 5,000. And this is by no means essential but the Python water changer is an amazing tool and has made water changes so much easier and less stressful. As far as substrate if you go with sand I would use pool filter sand, you can get a 50lb bag at Lowe's or Home Depot for about $6. I use it in all of my tanks with no issue. I have read that the play sand can be quite a bit messier and take longer to settle, though I have no personal experience with it. Good luck!

25 Foot - Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_n7NRCb42QKKM8

Ah okay, that sounds tough! Have you considered getting a Python Water Changer? I bought one, & it changed my life lol.

And depending on what vendor you purchase your shrimps from, they can come w/ a whole host of ailments, unfortunately. This is especially w/ any neocaridinia shrimp, that may have a species-specific fungus. 🙁

Additionally, you may want to transfer some of the gravel from your previous tank into the 10gal. Siphoning the water isn’t enough to transfer the cycled bacteria over, as the bacteria live on surfaces, such as the substrate & filter media. During tank setups or temporary tanks, you can speed up the cycling process by seeding the tank w/ filter material from an already established tank. To keep the bacteria alive during any water changes or tank moves, have the media submerged in the same tank water it was housed in, & don’t let it get too hot or cold.

The one I was referring to comes with a little valve in the line and an adapter to connect it to your sink. I'll find a link when I'm at a pc.
edit: Here's the link

Little fish could go up it, but just be careful. It doesn't create a huge suction or anything.

As far as plants, both Java fern and pretty much any species of Anubias would be easy to care for and help out your tank. Anubias is a slow grower which means it won't use up a ton of nutrients (nitrate, etc) but Java fern should pull a little more out. There are also floating plants you can look into that work well. Honestly for this stuff /r/plantedtank is a great resource

I don't think the filter is the problem.

I was in the same boat as you to a T. Turns out my turtle was a girl so I wasn't expecting as big a turtle when I adopted her from a friend.

First, get the turtle tank away from the windows. The algae will practically be non existent. Also, if you have rocks from outside, they tend to create algae as well, so forget them unless you want to make a massive project out of it (still probably not worth it).

Second, buy one of these.
It will make cleaning a turtle tank a breeze. I swear by it. It is much longer than one from any pet store and you will never need a bucket again. If you do have this (assuming you have rocks/pebbles at the bottom) make sure you hold it straight down to make a vortex (like a soft tornado). It will suck up everything but the rocks.
Bonus: with this tube, just reverse it and it puts water back into the tank from your sink. Freaking fantastic.

Back when I was younger I hated when that happened. Now I just use a python http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000255NXC/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Check out the python water changing system! Get a hose length that will reach from your tank to your room. I recommend also purchasing the green hook that makes refilling easier, as well as a longer siphon attachment (my personal opinion. Not necessary.) It has made my life a million times easier. What I do when I refill is attach the hook, and run my temperature matched water back into my tank. About halfway through being refilled I will dose the full amount of my tank with dechlorinator. No more buckets!

Python water changer

Watch some videos of this system on YouTube so you can get an idea of all of its parts and to see how it works!

You could get a Python Hose if you are worried about hooking a regular hose up to your kitchen sink. I have used them for aquariums and they keep the water where it is supposed to be. Your plants look beautiful!

Here's what I have so far and my quick write up.

My dad started the tomato plant that I am using in soil. He had too many for his garden, so I used that instead of starting one from seed in rockwool. My next plant will be started from seed.

I picked up a 5 gal bucket and Lid from Home Depot. <$5.

I cut a hole in the Lid to fit the 3" Net Cups. I put one right in the center. I quickly found out the cup it too small to support the plant so I had to use a support stick. I just bought this 6" net cup bucket lid.

The plant is supported in Expanded Clay balls. I chose this material as apposed to 'Hydroton, Coco coir, Viagrow stones, pearlite...' because from my very little research I found the clay to be the most environmentally friendly and easiest to use, disclaimer: I could be very wrong here.

The nutrient solution used General Hydroponics Maxi Grow. Simple to use, add X scoops per X gal of water. I am about to switch to Maxi Bloom. She is flowering and starting to produce fruit. I do now know when the best time to switch solutions. I am learning by experiment here.

To keep the nutrient solution oxygenated, I used this Air pump,two of of these air stones, and tubing. Any items will do, I used this products because I know an employee of Penn Plax and got them for cost $. Any pump will work, I got a two outlet pump for future expansion.

You should also be sure to have the correct pH for your particular plant. Here is a chart and a great site. I used this pH Test Kit and pH adjust.

It's that simple. Right now the plant is outside and gets about 8 hours of sun. I plan on keeping it outside as long as possible, then will bring it in and have to choose a light source for it.


tl;dr What I used for my first DWC tomato plant experiment. Step 1: Click all links above. Step2: Buy. Step 3: Tomatoes

Edit: Also, Watch this video

OK, so here's one problem - you are not going to get accurate results with test strips. But, I don't know what your finance situation is, so maybe you need to use them for now and anything is certainly better than nothing. If you have a few bucks to spend, get a test kit like this one, which will test much of what you want to know about except water hardness, but this one does that.

Your nitrates aren't bad. Before we talk about things to try, I have to say the following: if you change more than one thing at a time you will never know what's working and what isn't. Try one change at a time, give each change two or three days to make a difference, keep a written record with dates (and time, if you're obsessive like me), and don't just write down what you change. Try to include things you observe, and try to take cell phone pics so you can accurately measure change. Be patient, observe the tank daily, be patient, and try to be patient.

An 8 hour split may be too much with the Nicrew, but it really isn't way overboard. I do a 7 hour split but I have no experience with Nicrews, I have two Finnex Planteds and a BeamsWork, and I don't know when you changed to the Nicrew and your 8 hour regimen. You could try a blackout for a few days, and then back to your current regimen.

If your light is sitting atop your tank you can try raising it a bit. A 10 gallon is what? 12 inches tall? You can jerry rig something to raise the light, or you can get something like this, or you can hang the light from the ceiling with fishing line. If you have aquascaping tweezers you can pull algae out manually, or you can use a toothbrush; not to brush the leaves, but to grab the algae in the bristles and pull it out. I've tried all of these things in different tanks, with good results. I've also used Seachem Excel, but only once or twice a week, not daily as the directions say. It definitely helps, but it isn't a cure and it only kills the algae, like the Algaefix you are already using. If you use Excel, wash your hands afterward. There are some scary and, to my mind not very scholarly, articles on the web about the chemical used in Excel, which Seachem claims is a different isomer than what it actually uses. But wash your hands afterward anyway - it's a simple precaution. Keep this in mind: if you use either one, it will make it harder to tell if the other things you are doing are having any effect. So, maybe bite the bullet for a couple weeks to try the other things, and if you start making headway you can use just a bit of the Algaefix or Excel to help push things along.

You should also consider how heavily planted your tank is. More plant load is better to out-compete the algae. If you have a lot of plants, you also want to provide them with nutrients or the light is next to useless. A good way to increase the plant load inexpensively and relatively fast is floaters. Check the AquaSwap forum here on reddit - /r/AquaSwap/, but keep in mind that you cannot be certain that you will not get snails with the plants, even if the seller claims the plants are dipped before shipping. Snails are not a bad thing, and would probably be helpful for you. Another inexpensive way to beat algae! And, if they get out of hand you just stick a stainless steel fork in a hunk of cucumber, put it in the tank for about two hours, grab a zip-loc baggie and hold it in the tank, grab the fork, put the cucumber and snails in the bag, pull the fork out of the cucumber, and close the bag. Into the garbage with it. It will be covered with snails.

Getting back to the floaters, they will suck up nitrates, provide shade for your anubias, and you'll be pulling handfuls out of the tank in no time (into the garbage! don't take a chance of letting them into the wild by throwing them in your yard). You can keep the floaters corralled with clear air line tubing and suction cups. Make sure the diameter matches, like these do. Cut a length of hose, heat near one end while holding the end so you can pull it until it comes off, leaving a pointy end that you can now stick into the other end of your length of hose, creating a circle. I use the silicon repair stuff to "glue" it together. This guy shows you a better way to do it, in his second video in the series at 2:45. But if you want to get motivated for your algae war, watch the entire series. You will never be the same. And after that, go learn here.

There are a lot more things you can do, but maybe start with these and keep reading about this stuff whenever you get a chance. Good Luck, and let us know how you make out.

Cool. Maybe getting a sponge filter is good since it's good to learn other filtering options. It seems like sponge filters need some air pump and airline (please correct me if I am mistaken).

Would the following, airline and pump, be the only additional things I need?
https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-Aquariums-Flexible-Standard/dp/B0002563MW/ref=pd_bxgy_199_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0V8RYSC7JNHZTRN6D913

https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-77851-Whisper-Pump-10-Gallon/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511318178&sr=8-3&keywords=air+pump+fish

Petco currently has a $1 per gallon sale up to 29 gallons, I believe. If you wanted a bigger aquarium now'd be a good time to get a bigger aquarium. Your choice of fish is very limited with a 5 gallon. You can either get a betta or some shrimps.

Take your time and do research. No need to rush. It's always better to do your research and go to a pet store knowing what you want rather than impulsively buying anything. Most pet store staff also generally don't know much more than the average person about fish so take anything they say with a grain of salt.

EDIT: You need an airpump, not an air stone for the sponge filter! That's a really big mistake I made.

These are what I ordered for my 20 gallon aquarium, the size of the air pump is what matters so get a 10 gallon air pump for your 5 gallon aquarium unless you decide to upgrade. I'm also on a budget so these seem to be the best items for those on a budget

Sponge filter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0051XIN78/ref=psdcmw_2975472011_t2_B005VAFGKI

Air pump:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YJ4N6/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I35X82DPLWBEQ2&colid=74EPT83Y85GU&th=1&psc=1

Air tubing:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002563MW/ref=pd_aw_fbt_199_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C7MX7DQQ39GFPW8XDMM3

Ha, love the name idea!

I'm not sure if you have read around and are aware of the proper care for a betta (if you have then ignore me) but if you haven't I'll go ahead and say a two gallon bowl isn't the best place for him, and is also another reason for the downvotes. He can live in it but he's not going to thrive. He does need a heater and a filter, if you have those then that is awesome, if not you can even get them as a broke college student.

If I can tell you one thing I'm positively sure of, there is always room for a fish tank. ;)

I'm just going to link you a cheap list of good stuff for little moneys:

Sponge Filter

Air Pump

Airline Tubing I bet you can find this in stores for less. Also less as an add on item.

Check Valve Most likely less at a store.

Heater, Heater 2 Costs a good bit more but I really love these.

Tank, Tank 2 There are many other options to look at.

If you go with the cheapest it will run you just about $58 with prime.

Hope the list gives you something to think about. If you've got any questions at all I'd be more than happy to answer them if I can.

Edit* Added a link.

I plan to grow larger variant tomatoes such as beefsteak and want to make sure this kind of layout and these components will be good enough for that purpose.

Here is the list of components I'm planning to use:

1. Buckets https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DPJ4896
   
2. Lids https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072C3G5CJ
   
3. Hydroton https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KYYZ9DE
   
4. Nutrients https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017H73708
   
5. pH Control https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BNKWZY
   
6. pH/TDS Tester https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XKMH86J
   
7. Water Pump https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E9IO9BY
   
8. Water tubing https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004DL0Y9O
   
9. Air Pump https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009YF4FI
   
10. Air Stone https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M9DL67H
    
11. Air Line https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002563MW
    
12. Growlight (Already own) Galaxyhydro 300w LED Grow Light Full Spectrum
    
    ​
    
    The remaining plumbing components I need I'll pick up from my local Home Depot.

It’s 1/4inch airline tubing, you can buy some on amazon for super cheap!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002563MW?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

If you're doing yeast DIY I think the hagen ladder is the best option: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002DI1W4/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1

I've used it with really good results.

It works as a bubble counter, and requires almost no working pressure. I also find that it's a little more forgiving of the unavoidable fluctuations that happen with yeast. When you have a new bottle pumping bubbles out, they move quickly and don't completely dissolve, preventing overgassing. When the bottle starts to slow, so do the bubbles, giving them more time to dissolve fully and keeping levels from dropping too much. Seems to help with overall stability.

I've been running the 24/7 on my 55 for a couple months now. If you don't plan to do CO2, it will be far too much light (at least in 24/7 mode). I was battling hair algae for the first couple weeks until I started CO2. If you raise it up a bit, you may be OK.

I don't see much of a problem going with a slightly Shorter light. You may have slightly less growth on the sides, but I doubt it will be noticeable beyond what full length would give you.

Edit: my CO2 I currently run: DIY generator with bubble counter/diffuser. You need citric acid (canning area of grocery store) every couple of weeks with some baking soda. My indicator shows I can get plenty at about 1 bubble per second. I will likely upgrade to a pressurized system later, just wanted to test drive CO2 before investing too much money.

My bubble counter/diffuser my asa needle valve is <$6 at hardware store, tubing is $2 buy your co2 tank on amazon, I bought one at Walmart for $10 more than what you can get them for on amazon.

This is a pretty nice small internal filter. Unless you want to go with a hob style oooor maybe you are into the sponge filter world

I looking at this, that, and the other one, but honestly if I swing by Petco tomorrow and they have a nice rimless I might just pick that up. I already have a filter and heater on the way because I just measured the water temp and it's 70! Just make it to Tuesday, little fella.

OP, I'd avoid the Marineland because it has a built in filter. I'd get the Tetra and a nano filter like this one.

I have that filter on my 2 gallon tank, and it's pretty spiffy. I just keep a few cherry shrimp in my little tank.

5 gallons would be enough for a single betta, dario dario, badis badis, or similar solitary fish. A couple of guppies would be fine, but DO NOT mix male and females unless you enjoy being overrun with fry. There are 'micro' fish, too, that you could stock three or four of, but I'm not familiar with any of them.

Second that this filter just isn't worth it. I couldn't stand the thing!

I absolutely love this filter, I've had three of them. It is an internal filter for small tanks that doesn't require an air pump. It's super quiet and because of the arm attachment it produces very little current especially if you aim it at the wall. Would very highly recommend it.

I have a Tom's Mini Internal in both of my betta tanks. They are sponge filters, but I cut out like 1.5cm of the bottom so I could jam a couple ceramic rings in there too. Works like a charm, just need to keep an eye on it for cleaning because it is so small. I just point the small spray bar at the tank wall and thumbs up! You can completely submerge it if it's only a betta in the tank.

TOM Aquarium Mini Internal Filter 45gph adjustable flow is the one I use in my 2.5 gallon. Keeps the water clear and not too much for the betta. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00176GKM8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_mSLEub1DK6ZFR

Also, just a note that filter is currently on recall by PetSmart. You can return the filter to a PetSmart and get ~$16 back no questions, and then buy yourself a better filter elsewhere if you want: http://phx.corporate-ir.net/phoenix.zhtml?c=196265&p=factset72
I've had my eye on this filter: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00176GKM8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=206IQ9CF332Y&coliid=I34IFQSAA7VMHS

In reference to this comment, I recommend the TOM mini filter. For $16 it has 45GPH filtration and an extension for the water current to be broken up so it doesn't stress the betta. You can also take the carbon it comes with and fill it with another biological media if you'd wish. There's no refill cartridges, so you can control all the elements with whatever filtration you prefer

I haven't used this specific tank for shrimps, but I do have one for bettas AND have other shrimp tanks. If you're super serious and have about $70 to spend, it can be converted into the easiest shrimp tank ever!

Ditch the cover; the best setup for shrimp involves live plants, and the lighting under there unfortunately won't support it. For that size tank, a Finnex Ultra Slim would be ideal. It'll grow literally any aquatic plant you could possibly buy like weeds. For filtration I'd recommend a Tom mini; it's gentle, can't suck up any babies, and dead quiet.

I know it seems pricey at first but as a hobbyist you probably already know that the setup cost is always the most important. It'll be almost foolproof, trust me. I can PM you examples of my tanks if you want.

Links:

http://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Internal-Filter-45gph-adjustable/dp/B00176GKM8/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1383202386&sr=1-1&keywords=tom+mini+filter

http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-Fugeray-R-Ultra-Aquarium-Fixture/dp/B00BP6QGIS/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1383202399&sr=1-2&keywords=finnex+fugeray

TOM mini 45gph


It was a little strong at first but after 1 month i think the bacteria inside the filter and the plants kind of help to slow down the flow

I have this filter in a small shrimp tank (some have said it works great w/o the filter as a small powerhead) and this sponge filter in another shrimp tank.

If you can get a small gravel vac, that will help a lot; you can drain into a bucket. I highly recommend getting a siphon starter because it's a pain to get the siphon going in a small tank. You should be able to find a small size siphon at Petsmart/Petco but Amazon does have some as well. The siphon starter fits on the end of the siphon tubing and you squeeze it and it helps get the siphon going. Hugely helpful in my opinion. You can also use airline tubing in a pinch but it's a lot slower. I've also used small paint buckets (can find at Lowe's/Home Depot and similar places), they're usually found around where other buckets are including the 5 gallon standard buckets, or cheap plastic food storage containers that are devoted only to the aquarium (use them to scoop out water when I'm not doing a gravel vac). Plain 5 gallon tanks are often sold at Petco for around $15.

As a few people have mentioned, both sides of the hose look much longer than necessary. Longer the hose, the harder the pump needs to work to move the water and more effort to get it started because there is more air to remove initially.

To get the siphon started, you can use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Python-Squeeze-Starter-Aquarium-Adapter/dp/B0017JHPA6

All you really need to do is fill the hose with water to get it going. So anything you can use to pour water in will work.

You can find all sorts of siphons and hand pumps on Amazon.

Python 13PS Squeeze Siphon Starter https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0017JHPA6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_COsOBb2PW0VG1

SEINECA 8mm Fuel Line Pump Primer Bulb Hand Siphon Diesel Gas Petrol Pump Rubber and Plastic for Car Boat Marine Outboard https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07G26VFQD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6LsOBbQY7ZYZ0

Here's the gravel vacuum I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002APRT2/

It's got a nice low flow rate which is helpful for smaller tanks because otherwise you're done with the water change before you've actually had enough time to work through much gravel. I'd also recommend getting the squeeze-starter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017JHPA6/

I use the bucket for my 40 gallon, it’s really not too bad. I understand though, I have back problems also, so I ordered one of these and figured you might be interested: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0017JHPA6/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

sounds like you just had an inefficient system tbh

i never empty out my dwc, i let the water get low enough that it forces me to fill it back up with nutes, no issues whatso ever.

constantly ph checking= once every couple days? even then it is stable enough to not do anything with it except maybe once a week. get a decent sized container and it isn't an issue. it's an issue when people are growing 4ft plants in 2g pails

i don't use a chiller, and haven't had high temps ever, AC for the house and the tent is in the basement, so cooler air is pumped in always

if I'm lazy i just fill my vegging plants with plain tap water and no nutes, deficiencies aren't the end of a plants life instantly, it takes weeks and weeks of no nutes

the price of my dwc was cheap as hell...all prices cdn

13$ containerx2 - https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.102-l-strong-box-tote-with-locking-in-blackyellow.1000706729.html
45$ air pump (does my entire tent and veg area without issues)- https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B002JLJC0W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
12$ air stones - https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01MT45VCM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
7$ air splitter - https://www.amazon.ca/Uxcell-Jardin-Control-Aquarium-Diameter/dp/B00A8X1XI2/ref=zg_bs_6292472011_39?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KC92XXTPW3FJSTWA4C12
7$ air tube - https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000255NYQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
15$ netcup - https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B073WJ78MM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
24$ digi ph pen - https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07C9WR156/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So complete setup, without having to buy anything else again for a 4x4 tent is a grand total of 136$

i have left it for 12 days without touching it after a fresh top up due to work requiring me to be away

now, a RDWC could be a bit more advanced, overwhelming and costly to a newer person, but for sure throwing an airstone in a bucket isn't complicated for newer people

I changed up the design after taking those pics and added another airline down the middle. For the pump, I use the EcoPlus 728450 1 to 18W Single Outlet Commercial Air Pump, 793 GPH for 3 plants and it is crazy! It is really like a foam bath of air in the buckets my girls are digging it, they are in week 4 of flower and the buds are about to explode in size. http://i.imgur.com/3WMFbfC.jpg

Yah you can find them on amazon for sure, I got this one from my local hydro shop for I think $35. It can run 6 air stones at once so it's not something you need for a smaller system (i'm running 6 seperate 5 gallon DWC's off of it). I do use one of these on my 55 gallon rez but that's probably overkill for one system.

Its not loud outdoors at all, but indoors it is sort of annoying. I use it in my garage but couldn't use it like in the kitchen or something. They get a little warm but they don't ever get particularly hot to the touch unless it not in a ventilated area. If indoors id probably hit it with a fan.

This is the one I'm using. $34

My ecoair is supposed to push 253 GPH and I wouldn't even consider for a second moving to actually using all 4 ports. That GH pump says 320 GPH. Not sure if that step up is going to be enough. Then again I'm not entirely sure the ecoair is actually putting out 253 GPH....

Any experiences with this Pump

I think that GPH looks a lot better, but reliability is a whole nother issue.

I'll get some pictures of everything for you later today when I get in the tent.

Using 3.75" net pots with hydroton rocks and rapid rooters.

For air pumps I'm running 2 of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002JLJC0W/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_track_package_o1_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1 line from each pump into each bucket, in case of pump failure. So each bucket has two air lines/airstones.

Cloudline T6 for exhaust

Simple Deep Water Culture System:
Tent = anything like this
Bucket = anything like this
Air Pump = something like this
Air Stones = some of these
Air Line = sure, this
Nutrients = General Hydroponics Flora Nova Grow & Flora Nova Bloom (available at any hydroponics supply store - expensive to buy online)
Lighting = so many options, this is a great starter light MEIZHI

Lemme know if you wanna consider Ebb and Flow - not much different overall but a cool system.

Oh, and I'd shop around for air pumps and filters a bit more. I like pumps with multiple nozzles so i can attach multiple filters (for the heck of it, or if you use a divider, or if you get more tanks) or air stones. That filter is also the first thing that showed up. I'd always go one size up and use a 15 or 20 gal filter on a 10 gal, or use the 10 gal filter on a 5 gal.

I basically did what's in this picture, outlined in this thread here. I used this pump.

This method---honestly, I don't know how anyone could get it to work. Using 3/8" line for the lifts is the problem. I fought with this for HOURS and couldn't make it work. Now, like I said, the pump does fine on its lowest setting, maybe I'll make a video too. I could definitely throw a 4 gang splitter and run more lifts, no problem---I'd just need a different reservoir. (I have a 19 month old...so...I need to mitigate spill risk, lol.)

What I did differently was to use 1/4" line for the lifts as well as the air intake. I wound up having to use a connector (because I already had the lift lines in place), but if you were smart you wouldn't need to. At first I was afraid there would be too much friction this way, but it goes just fine.

The 2 air lines come in from the bubbler and get e-taped to a dowel, which is about level with the top of the reservoir. One more bit of tape at the bottom, we're just making a loop. The hard part is not kinking the line but still being able to fit it in the jug. as it goes back UP the dowel, the ball-pumps pierce it at a steep angle (I actually ground them down so they'd pierce better), the little 3/8" pieces of tubing are just at the bottom of the reservoir. The idea there is you want it as low as possible, but also with some length so that it's easier for the air to go up the line than out the water-inlets.

As it travels up the down, it's taped again, just to keep everything straight. It goes up the sides of the bottles, and goes through a melt-hole in the side of the top bottle, rather than coming in from the top. Water is delivered directly to the grow block.

The two bottom-most bottles have additional pieces of 1/4" line coming from them (I used "Sticky ass glue" for the seal, which is basically just gorilla glue but stronger and cheaper) to a T, and then the bottom of the T drops back into the reservoir.

That probably doesn't make any sense, would it be worthwhile for me to video it?

What about something like this, lol?

Get some tubing that fits over a drip tip, then vape out of the other one, bassically, letting this thing do the sucking for you.

C02 Kit

Bubble Counter

Diffuser

You also need funnels to get everything into the soda bottles, a few check valves to prevent backflow. The reaction uses baking soda and citric acid, I got both from the market so thy are food grade.

From what I have heard running your CO2 line directly into a HOB filter will cause cavitation of the impeller and eventually break the filter. I have no clue how long it takes to break a filter this way. For my CO2 setup I am using a ceramic diffuser this one under the intake to my filter. I have not had a filter die on me yet or give any indication of failing but I really haven't had it running that long.

I use disposable pressurized co2 canisters right now with one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Nano-CO2-Diffuser-Reactor-Aquarium/dp/B0058XWDFO/

this is what you're using, right?

http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Ceramic-88g-CO2-Diffuser-Ounces/dp/B004GCO35G

& I already have the fluval bubble counter!

I said some of this elsewhere but for lighting I have the finnex fugeray in 10" As well as a Marineland Penguin 100 filter. pretty basic, ya know. I have a diy CO2 system going using a fluval diffuser which is a really good diffuser. I also have a sponge wrapped around the intake of the filter to protect my invertibrates

For substrate, I just have some black diamond blasted sand. I have a piece of mopani driftwood that I searched months for! Found it in Petco, funny enough in their reptile section, though it said for aquarium use.

flora includes: Water sprite, Baby tears, Dwarf baby tears, Microsword, Duckweed, and a couple others' whose names I cant remember right now.

fauna includes: 1 oto, 6 cherry shrimp (so far!), one nerite snail, and a handful of malaysian trumpet snails. Very happy crew.

I dose with excel about once a week, and feed the shrimp part of an algea wafer every few days.

How high do you have the pressure up to?? The only time mine ever did that is when I got impatient and turned the pressure up a bit too high. I'm not an expert, but it might be time to invest in a regulator.

I use this diffuser with this regulator in both my tanks (a 55g and a 75g). I use the included bubble counter for my 75g and it works great. I've bought way more expensive diffusers and none worked as good as the one I referenced here so don't be tempted to spend more than you need to. I really do suggest a regulator, though. I think you might be having pressure issues.

I've never used any of the ones you listed, so I'm not sure (but the second one looks pretty nice) I bought this one a year or so ago & seems to work well enough: http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-88g-CO2-Bubble-Counter-Ounces/dp/B004GCPM6K/ref=pd_sim_petsupplies_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0APPW7BZA4DKSHBM7PZD

edit: I should prolly mention I'm using the fluval 20g c02 kit with a glass diffuser, not the aquatek regulator.

I saw the solenoid was listed as "8.99" and I was like WHAT, I WILL TAKE 10.

Typo, I gotcha. $84.99. Yarr.

Setup looks okay.

Two suggestions:

1. From personal experience is instead of a diffuser, use a reactor.
   I have this one: https://smile.amazon.com/Gulfstream-Tropical-AGU00529-Reactor-Aquarium/dp/B005DGJEGC - I find it disperses the gas a lot better than a diffuser. Also, it's an inline thing, so it's in the cabinet under your tank and doesn't look ugly.
   
   
2. Get actual cO2 tubing. Regular airline tubing will work, but will degrade over time from the gas. You can find it anywhere you can find normal airline tubing. It's usually black or clear.
   
   I have a 40b too, and a 10 lb tank. I have to fill it about every 6 months or so. Costs about $23 where I am, just to give you a base point.
   
   Good job, enjoy!
   
   *Edit: Oh, forgot to mention. If you go the reactor route, you'll need a bubble counter. Also, get a drop checker to ensure levels of cO2 in your tank are good.
   
   Bubble counter: https://smile.amazon.com/Fluval-88g-CO2-Bubble-Counter-Ounces/dp/B004GCPM6K
   
   Drop checker: https://smile.amazon.com/Aquatic-Glass-Checker-MONITOR-sakkara/dp/B00OO2FUFK

Hey I just bought the same tank! I fit the same exact heater in the compartment next to the filter intake tube, it fit perfectly. I also used a little over half a bag of eco-complete. I just planted it a couple days ago. I bought a Nutrafin co2 kit but the ladder diffuser/bubble counter took up a whole wall so I ditched it and bought this glass diffuser and this bubble counter, they're still in the mail though so can't comment on how they work.

It looks like you're going with pressurized co2 which I sort of want to too but the replacement tanks seem expensive. Kind of wish I hadn't bought the Nutrafin and just made my own bottle DIY but the cannister is nice and so is the tubing it comes with and I'll just use the ladder diffuser on a bigger tank. There's not much room to work with and the lid seems annoying to fit things under, like tubing so I'm still working on that but overall it's a beautiful tank. Good luck!

The prices are different from when I ordered them but here's my exact setup!

Here's the co2 system

This is the bubble counter I have

Here's the diffuser I got but there's cheaper options as well

Ferts - http://greenleafaquariums.com
Co2 Regulator - http://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/co2-systems/products/copy-of-archaea-co2-regulator-pro-dual-gauge-fits-cga-320
5lb Co2 tank - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HQQ3WWE/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3ONOLGNT00SR9. Co2 diffuser - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005MLTRR4/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Bubble counter - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004GCPM6K/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Co2 Drop Checker - http://m.ebay.com/itm/New-Aquatic-CO2-Glass-Drop-Checker-PH-Momitor-Aquarium-Fish-Tank-Test-CO2-Kit-/391351972319?varId=660586838351&txnId=650126189026 Co2 tubing and check valve - http://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/co2-systems/products/pressure-proof-tube-parts-set
Co2 Drop Checker Solution - http://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/co2-systems/products/ph-kit-ph-reagent-refill-for-drop-checker

That should be everything. I would look into EI dosing too. Especially if you're going with dry ferts. You'll have to find a place near you that can fill the Co2 tank. I get mine filled at Beer Depot. Any home brewery store will have the equipment necessary to refill a 5lb Co2 tank. Welding stores also refill Co2 tanks. If you're really luck, you may have an awesome LFS that refills tanks too. If I missed anything, or if you have any more questions, please let me know. =)

Just went through my box of fish goods. Probably the best things (which I coincidentally got off Amazon) are random airline accessories. One-way valves, random connectors, suction cups, and a pack of check valves have all proven useful. It's great having extra pieces for whenever you need one. I built a drip acclimation line that I saw for sale somewhere with these parts, I have two DIY sponge + K1 filters that I needed one-way valves for to regulate the airflow, etc. Just so many uses :)

Some other good purchases:

Seachem Purigen

Bubble Counter - for DIY CO2 or DIY in-tank brine shrimp hatchery

Yeast - for DIY CO2

Metal Faucet Adapter - for gravel vacuum that attaches to your sink

Pre-filter Sponge Pack

Might be worth mentioning sponge filters. Tetra Whisper air pumps on Amazon run about 7 bucks and the sponge filter itself will run you all of 3 bucks and you don't have to worry about replacing cartridges or anything so that's really nice and easy for beginners!

I would recommend Seachem Stability, too! Great way to help a tank get cycled faster which is a great thing when you're fish-in cycling.

I have this one in my 10g. Should be easy for you to run a splitter and have one on each side of the tank.

Do you own the established tank or are you getting it from a buddy? If it's yours, just run the old filter in the new tank for a couple of days (just make sure you don't have chlorine in the water) and then pop it back in the old tank. As other commenters have mentioned, it's valuable to always have one or more of these running so you can jump start a new tank at a moment's notice:

XY-2831 Air Pump Sponge Filter for Aquarium, Tank Size 10-gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0056XVF82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_w25.ybB5CGHHZ

Thanks! This is the one I have: XY-2831 Air Pump Sponge Filter for Aquarium, Tank Size 10-Gallon (1-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0056XVF82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pBX1CbWXB0562

That’s really unfortunate:( I hope he recovers. If you’re in the market for a new filter now, I definitely recommend a sponge filter, something like this. They’re probably the lowest-risk filter types and are often used for breeding delicate fish fry. I’ve seen plenty of people get away with using normal filter gear with bettas, but horror stories like yours have convinced me it’s the safest option for my boys.

Best of luck to you and your Betta. Don’t feel too bad - it’s not your fault that crazy shit like this happens sometimes. I hope he pulls through.

i was tired yesterday and hadn't read the post fully (betta issues of my own) and had thought you meant you needed a filter that wasn't a submersible (i have a filter of sorts on my 10, along with a 20) id recomend something like http://www.amazon.com/XY-2831-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium-10-gallon/dp/B0056XVF82

i have one of those on my 10, and i just rinse out the crap every time it needs it, works wonders
you can still run the bubbler but you may need to branch the tubing to do so (tubing is normally pretty cheap)

I have this one, and a whisper 10 air pump. Standard air tubing and a check valve that I tbh haven't installed yet. My tank is ~5 gallons and the sponge filter doesn't put out too much flow for the animals--a betta would be very happy. There are corner ones that are more discreet than the stick on one. But for the stick on one debris doesn't get trapped and decay in the area around the little weight.

I would reccommend this baby to add to your filtering capabilities. All you need is an air pump and tubing to drive this and it's inexpenseive (though a bit big) for a nice filter. Currently have three of these running (two as secondary filters one as primary) and they've been handling it well. This will stir up the water as well as filter it.

To me (knida new, I keep shrimp) that sounds like a lot of fish in a 10 gallon... Also, I've heard tetras can nip at the betta. Have you experienced this?

Sponge filters are great for biological filtration! I'm cycling with a small corner sponge on my 10gal with pond snails. Unfortunately, sponge filters are crap for actually pulling old food/poop/dead plant matter. You'll have to stay on top of vacuuming the bottom of the tank during water changes. It gets very, very messy.

As for the actual sponges, see if you can find the two-sponge varieties such as this one here. That way, you can clean one sponge at a time and not worry too much about crashing your cycle. I would also recommend getting a larger pump than recommended for the size of the tank - I use a Whisper 020 (rated for 20 gallons) and it still doesn't have much pulling power, so detritus as mentioned above. But the bubbles vented from the top of the sponge filter disturb the surface quite a bit. I had to replace the mesh topper with a glass lid to keep the lights dry, or keep the water level at 75% filled. Boo.

Another thing to consider is the noise of an air pump. HOB filters hum and make waterfall-y noises, canisters are almost completely silent, and the air pumps hum and buzz no matter what you do. Some things to think about. Good luck! :)

The first link is the just a little larger than the second, They both use an air pump. And I forgot to say I use saltyshrimp gh and kh as the remineralizer. Most tap water is fine for ghost or red cherry shrimp though.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005VAFGKI/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1505891587&sr=8-5&keywords=sponge%2Bfilter&dpPl=1&dpID=41UvHBkfssL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0056XVF82/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505891637&sr=8-3&keywords=sponge+filter&dpPl=1&dpID=41dqWo%2BtSBL&ref=plSrch

I've got a paintball tank with this cheapo regulator. I'll spend a bit more on a nicer one someday, but for now it gets the job done. The diffuser is a cheap glass one with a ceramic disk in it. A lot of the reviews mentioned it being overly fragile, but it's been a tough little sucker for me.

If you have a hydroponics store nearby, a lot of them do CO2 tank rentals. It works like propane rentals, you put a deposit on an initial (full) tank and you pay to switch them out when you are empty. If you ever drop CO2 or need your money back, you just return the tank for your deposit.

For a regulator, I recommend going with a full regulator. Even if you ultimately go with a paintball sized canister, you can use an adapter to go down. While you can get an adapter to go the other way (paintball regulator on a full tank), it's much more limiting on the future. The Aquatek regulators are hit or miss (some people love them, some hate them), but I haven't had a problem with mine, and it was by far the cheapest option. GLA regulators are a work of art but much harder on the budget.

Aquatek regulators come with an integrated bubble counter and check valve, but you can use any check valves including the dollar ones at any pet store. Bubble counters are relatively cheap, but if you end up using a ceramic diffuser most have a bubble counter built in. You can get cheap ceramic diffusers on Amazon.

If you run a canister, I'd recommend just getting an Ista reactor. It's not much more money, it's less maintenance than cleaning diffusers, there's less CO2 lost, and less clutter in your tank. If have a canister you want to go something more sleek, you can get an in-line atomizer but I believe these require occasional maintenance compared to a reactor.

The fluval CO2 system requires you to use disposable co2 canisters. The system comes in two sizes, 20 gram and 88 gram. Depending on the CO2 requirements of your plants, it could end up getting a tad expensive. You may be able to get away with it on such a small tank, but it the long run it may be cheaper to purchase a larger, refillable system.
Assuming you go with the 20 gram kit, which is recommended for up to 15gal. That's ~$28 + S&H. Assuming you are conservative with your CO2, You'll probably use 1 canister every 2 weeks. A 20 gram 3 pack is $14 + S&H. Over the course of a year you will spend ~$145 + S&H for CO2. Over 2 years, that number will be around ~$250 + a lot of S&H. Plus, if you decide to upgrade your tank, you'll also have to upgrade your CO2 system.
If you have the money to spend up front, you'll save yourself time and money in the long run. Get a 24oz Paintball CO2 tank from Amazon for $21. Get it filled at your local sporting goods store for ~$4. Get a diffuser from Amazon for ~$11. Then get a Paintball CO2 Regulator from GLA for $189. One fill up on your tank is equal to more than 34 20 gram canisters from Fluval and it only costs about $4 to refill, and if you have a Dicks Sporting Goods near you, 5th refill is free. Total cost is $221 + S&H, but that regulator is quality made and will last you years.
This is the set-up I use on my 7.5 gal and I'll be honest, after all other methods of "low cost" CO2 injection failed me and wasted my money, shelling out $200 for a regulator was quite painful, but this was the single best purchase I've ever made in my 20 years of keeping fish. So, if you can afford it, or can wait a bit and save some cash, it's worth it.
The simple fact that Fluval wants to charge you 13.99 for just over 2.1 ounces of CO2 when you can get a 24oz tank filled for $4 should make you question the purchase of their system.

sure.. do you have a co2 checker (green blue liquid) soemthing like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rhinox-Glass-Drop-Checker-Kit/dp/B005C74ZCA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=co2+aquarium+checker&qid=1566144421&s=gateway&sr=8-3
but if you have a bubble counter 1 bubble per sec is what I use for a 240 litre aquarium

Nevermind I found it, a CO2 drop checker.
https://www.amazon.com/Rhinox-Glass-Drop-Checker-Kit/dp/B005C74ZCA
:D

This is the one I use: Rhinox Glass Drop Checker Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005C74ZCA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zUCzyb0RP1WZ4

Works well for me. It cleans easily with a peroxide soak and some shaking. I clean it and change indicator solution about every 3 months. The glass is pretty sturdy, haven't had any issues yet.

sponge filter

[pump for sponge filter] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018CDR68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QlwcAbJ0QA3RV)

heater(youll want to adjust wattage depending on how much youll be heating)

A filter like this works great and is powered by an air pump like for a bubbler

I found this one completely silent:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00176GKM8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

this little guy is one of the best purchases i've ever made for my aquarium.

From what I understand, yes... This one is often recomended

I used an airbrush compressor, but its probably overkill. The important aspect isnt the pressure, but the volume it can pump (GPH). Though I'm not sure how much you actually need.

Amazon would be the place to look for those. Something like this.

Got this pump (https://www.amazon.com/EcoPlus-728450-Single-Outlet-Commercial/dp/B002JLJC0W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481570695&sr=8-1&keywords=ecoplus+air+pump) and 2 additional airstones today.

Each bucket will have 2 of the large cylinder airstones.

My question is: Is it best to have 2 air lines running to each bucket or can I put 1 airline and T split it into the 2 airstones? Does the efficiency change if I split it in 1 line vs 2 lines?

I run this air pump on 3 6ft tanks and 2 smaller ones. Each tank has a fx5 1 sponge and airstone. Air stones will be switched to sponges in the near future.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002JLJC0W/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468031340&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=eco+air+pump&dpPl=1&dpID=41o1RHxarXL&ref=plSrch

If was to go just running sponges I would 4 or 5 for each tank and run a much larger air pump.

I'd say head toward solar + batteries (or even just a battery array charged from your normal home power supply). I've done a lot of thinking about the same requirements because I also have frequent outages where I live

A storage tank would work, but only for a short time. Most AP systems at your scale use a 300-900 GPH air pump, but from http://www.binks.com/resources/tip-of-the-week/how-much-compressed-air-is-stored-in-a-storage-tank
> If you have an 80 gallon tank pressurized to 150 psi, the tank would store about
> 880 gallons of air. This is typical of a two stage compressor. A single stage 30 gallon
> compressor common to the big box stores usually maxes out about 110 psi and
> would hold about 300 gallons of free air.
It just wouldn't deliver what you need for long enough unless you scale up a ton.

You'd need something like 1300 AH of battery capacity assuming the following

-a 24 hour power outage

-an air pump that uses 30w 0.3amp 120v (e.g., https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JLJC0W)

-constant 24 hour usage of that air pump

-no recharge opportunity (no solar panels/generator or worst case cloudy/snowing)

Back of envelope estimations done using https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/tools/calculator-sizing-a-battery-to-a-load.html and https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/tools/ac-to-dc-amperage-conversion-run-through-an-inverter.html

Runtime gets much better if you use a timer to run on a cyclical basis, if you assume solar panels are available during the day, etc

An air pump similar to this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JLJC0W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

I had a shittier pump with one stone for a while in veg. The plant started dying before my very eyes one day, fuck me, right?

The only thing I could think of was more oxygen. Guess whats better than 1 shitty pump, that's right, 2 shitty air pumps. Good thing I had a spare with another stone.
Plopped that had boy in the res and I had fresh new roots popping up everywhere.

I ended up losing a few branches but the plant kicked ass anyway and covered half my 5x5 at the end of flower.

For my next grow, a too powerful air pump, a handful of air stones, and an r/o filter will help keep things fast and smooth.

I have this one, but I got it when I was using the nozzle style air assist, so I think it is more powerful than I need with the tubing. It is also kind of loud, I only turn it on when cutting. I use silicone tubing, the same as used on the water cooling, to bring the air to the laser head. Using a drag chain to support it.

if you want run all those buckets, its better to get a upgraded air pump, some thing [like this](https://amzn.com/B002JLJC0W
)

Hydrofarm AAPA15L 6-Watt 15-LPM Active Aqua Air Pump with 4 Outlets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JPEVMC/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_8wu7xbEZKXMWC

This one or maybe 2 with 2 outlets each

You guys must surely mean LPH (Liter pr hour, not minute)? 49 lpm is HUUUGE. I'm trying to check if mine is sufficient.

This is 15lpm

New Question! How much air do I need? I'm thinking of using this pump. Again I'll be using it in the res for a 6x5' rail system.

Here are some extra pics.
These are 4" pipes.
Used electrical outlets at the end and gorilla glued them in.
Three inlet tubes for circulation on the end, then the four on top are for air.
Overview
Crazy glue job
Pump
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012UZYMG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JPEVMC/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1

Not sure how this setup is going to work yet, but I will post more with success or failure.

Started seeds in early november. Put in the system around november 8th. the last pics in that album were around nov 16th, so about a weeks worth of growth. i pulled out the lettuce tub today to clean it up and i'm gonan replace it with a DWC bucket for some cherry tomatoes. here's pics of the peppers in their current state http://imgur.com/a/NY6xR . insanely bushy and got a few peppers and a TON of blooms that are quite healthy.

the lettuces were a mix of Perpetual spinach (A type of chard, it did insanely well), some oak leaf, some butter crunch, and some romaine. The lettuces did pretty well, but I think I was overcrowding the tub. Also, most of those lettuces really didn't do too great with the "cut and come again" type harvest, but the P. spinach did GREAT. You could slice off the outer edge leaves at the base, and the next day it'd be back to growing new ones at a crazy pace. I think next time, I'm just gonna do a tub full of it cause it was not only delicious eats but grew very very well. Lettuce is just so damn cheap at the store that it was not very practical to grow in the tubs, which is why I'm pulling it out to start some cherry tomatoes. With as good as the peppers are doing, I imagine a cherry tomato plant in a DWC bucket will thrive quite well.

Here's everything else I'm using
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LS07T5E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JPEVMC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVF16JG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IB2TL08/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CKCQJKQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The nute levels were around 1000-1400 (Meter seems to fluctuate). I have hard water with a base PPM of about 160. The nutes I added had calcium/mag added, so I was a little worried about possibly too much calcium since my water definitely has plenty, but nope, no issues. Big healthy green leaves and fast growth. No root rot as well. Only issue so far is aphids. Lots of the little fuckers. Going to my local hydro store here today to try and figure out a solution

It was a buddies that he let me borrow from an old fish tank. Just ordered one of these though.

The setup you want is pretty quiet. With the airstones on 24/7, set the top feed drip pump to come on a couple times a day and it will still be quieter than a window A/C unit

Air Pump

Drip pump

Here's the basic parts list to build a bucket like this:

• 2x 5 Gal buckets with lids (one for res, one for light top.) More buckets for spacers. (check your home improvement store of choice.)
  
• A big roll of black duct tape. This
  
• A roll of FlexFix tape. This
  
• A couple of space blankets. This
  
• A can of 3M spray adhesive. This is the good stuff
  
• 5x light sockets with plug ends. These
  
• 5x Philips SlimStyle LED "75w" 2700k. These
  
• Some heatshrink tubing. Looks good
  
• Some lamp cord and hookup wire. This, And This
  
• A roll of flux/rosin core solder. Your Choice, this looks okay
  
• An airpump. This one is awesome, This will do
  
• Some airstones. [This] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JLA83C/)
  
• A distribution manifold. At least a 3 way
  
• Some air lines. This, Or This
  
• A length of 3/4" pvc pipe and a plug (check your home improvement store of choice).
  
• A water dripper system. [This] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JAY6E/)
  
• Either a netpot and a bucket lid with a hole cut in it OR a premade netpot/bucket lid. This if you want to save some work
  
• Some PC fans. [These are nice and cheap] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NTUJZ36/)
  
• A PSU to run the fans and LED strip side lights you might add on spacers. This. It's 80+ at least. I had a few extra PSUs around. I wouldn't use one that isn't at least 80+ since it will be running 24/7.
  
  Lots of this stuff can be had cheaper at a home improvement or pet store. Check around. You'll need a soldering iron (I like my adjustable 40w), a drill and drill bits up to 3/4" (I like step bits for work on plastic), a heatgun or lighter to shrink that heatshrink tubing. An infrared thermometer is nice to have and can tell you the temp of your nutrients, the plant itself, your lights, etc...Just make sure to calibrate it first, all the cheap ones are inaccurate by at least a few degrees.
  

Hello!

So I use this for my AG:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002TCC46U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And then I have a couple of 3" air stones that I got at walmart for cheap.

Make sure you get black tubing, so that light doesn't get in. Also, look into getting a "check valve" for each line so that if your power goes out, water does flow backwards into the pump.

Then I unplugged the basin pump from the back, and have the air stones running 24/7 at a medium setting. I've done this with all of my AG grows (peppers, strawberries, ground cherries, tomatoes, herbs) with success. More oxygen=better.

I have two large air stones and this : http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002TCC46U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

sorry, this is a real pain on mobile.

these are the pumps. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002TCC46U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

thimk i may get a stronger 4 outlet pump and drop a small airstone in each bucket i have leftover from my last grow.

I'm using a fluval diffuser (Fluval Ceramic 88g-CO2 Diffuser - 3.1 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GCO35G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9IeDybVE2XBQ4) and I use 3 BPS. I am switching to inline reactor and attaching it to my fluval 206 - just waiting for the sleeves to come in the mail. Thought I might like the look of the bubbles but it turns it I hate them lol.

Nice tank! Just a suggestion -- I had the same fluval diffuser, and realized it wasn't as effective as the fluval ceramic diffuser which is a lot smaller. Also more effective due to size of bubbles. https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Ceramic-88g-CO2-Diffuser-Ounces/dp/B004GCO35G

I'm using that setup in a 5 gallon Fluval Spec right now. Ditch the diffuser it comes with, its huge. Get the this [one] (https://smile.amazon.com/Fluval-Ceramic-88g-CO2-Diffuser-Ounces/dp/B004GCO35G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486225190&sr=8-1&keywords=Fluval+diffuser)

You can also get threaded mini co2 canisters much cheaper than the fluval brand. $23 for a 15 pack. Each one lasts me about a month on 6 hours a day/ 1 bubble per second. link

Its a bit cumbersome, the valve takes some time to get used to. The slightest twist will either be too much or nothing at all. Its not automatic so you basically have to touch it twice a day, once to turn it on and once again to off. IF you have any questions let me know

http://www.amazon.com/AQUATEK-OF-CALIFORNIA-Regulator-Mini/dp/B008TJCPSY/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1414044611&sr=1-1&keywords=aquatek

I was looking at this, how long does a 20oz tank last you op?


P.s I've used this diffuser and the bubbles are smaller
http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Ceramic-Diffuser-Aquarium-3-1-Ounces/dp/B004GCO35G/ref=sr_1_11?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1414044741&sr=1-11&keywords=aquatek

Very cool write-up, thanks!

Your diffuser is very clever, but even for a DIY system, I personally recommend to buy a diffuser. I tried about half a dozen different DIY diffusers, and eventually decided to just give in and buy one. I am currently using the Fluval Ceramic one, and will never go back:

http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Ceramic-88g-CO2-Diffuser-Ounces/dp/B004GCO35G

$20 got me the diffuser, plus 3 replacement ceramic disks. Mine has been running for a month, and makes a ton of tiny micro-bubbles. I placed it at the bottom of my tank under my powerhead, and my plants absolutely love it.

The only drawback to this diffuser is your Co2 system needs a LOT of pressure for it to start working. If you use it, make sure you are using thick bottles and well sealed air lines.

I've never used a ladder, but I think that a ceramic diffuser would be better. I've used a fluval diffuser and it seems to work, plus its cheap. There are plenty of more expensive ones out there, but I haven't used them.

All co2 diffusers work by increasing the time and the surface area over which the co2 comes in contact with the water. The ladder diffusers have a few large bubbles that spend a couple seconds in contact, while the ceramic diffusers create hundreds of tiny bubbles that spend a few seconds floating, much more surface area. You can also position the diffuser beneath the return from your filter; it will blow the bubbles around in the tank increasing the time the bubbles have to dissolve.

Thanks!
Here's a link for the diffuser I'll be switching to maybe you'll like it too

https://www.amazon.ca/Fluval-Ceramic-88g-CO2-Diffuser-Ounces/dp/B004GCO35G/ref=asc_df_B004GCO35G/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=234376523249&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14328734804121458538&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000020&hvtargid=pla-293946777986&psc=1#immersive-view_1535844498454

I've ran the CO2 tubing directly into the intake of my HOB filter and it did "ok". I eventually got a fluval ceramic diffuser and it's been terrific. I still keep it below the inlet of the filter but the bubbles are much smaller. I also tried using bamboo chopsticks as a diffuser and that worked pretty well but occasionally it got clogged but very inexpensive and easily hidden.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GCO35G?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00


It's made for nano tanks so i figured I'd give it a shot and I absolutely love it.

fluval diffuser

looks like "melt"

I advice a simple DIY CO2... seeing what my plants did after struggling for ages is wonderful.

just need a few cheap amazon parts to order and sugar, bit of baking soda yeast and a cpl old lemonade bottles.

You'd be golden and hitting your head why you didn't do this before.

I am currently using the Fluvial bubble counter. Any recommendation on using a bubble counter that gives bigger bubbles?
http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-88g-CO2-Bubble-Counter-Ounces/dp/B004GCPM6K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462553909&sr=8-1&keywords=bubble+counter&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011

theres a super good diy set up thats super cheap. Baking soda +water then in other bottle citric acid and 3 parts water with hoses and valves built in. Let me know what you think of my list and let me know if im missing anything if you dont mind

Diffuser System

glass co2 checker

drops co2

bubble counter

The glass spiral diffuser

Ahh, I see. So something like this https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-88g-CO2-Bubble-Counter-Ounces/dp/B004GCPM6K/ref=sr_1_7keywords=Inline+CO2+Bubble+Counter&qid=1567725222&s=gateway&sr=8-7 would be better? Thanks a lot

EDIT* If I do decide with the rhinox bubble counter, could you link me a coupler or adapter?

Ah yes, you will need one of those. I was viewing those links with my phone and I thought the indicator was the bubble counter. I'm sending out a few items from the post office tomorrow and I have this Fluval one that I'm not using. I don't mind sending it over to you if you're in the US. PM me. It would be my good deed for the week :)

Do you have links for exactly all of the connections? I'm getting really tired of all this algae and really want to start a carpet, so C02 here I come.

EDIT: Once again, google has proven very useful lol

DIY kit

Diffuser

Bubble counter

I started with DIY CO2 before switching to pressurized. I used one of these little valves sitting infront of a bubble counter. It was by no means perfect. And the valve was always real sensitive once it started holding pressure behind it, but once it was holding a little pressure, it did keep the flow of CO2 relatively consistent. (And by pressure, I'm not talking like an actual pressurized tank. It was enough that if you opened it all the way is went "pffft") I figured that it kept the release of gas steady while the yeast's production wasn't always perfectly consistent throughout the day. I wouldn't treat it like an on/off solenoid, but you can at least keep a more consistent output that when it builds up overnight, your fish will be able to survive.

I switched to this corner filter and put Seachem matrix at the bottom instead of the ceramic rings for extra filtration since I have a snail and they're poop machines. This sponge filter is also a good option if you only have a betta since it takes up less space i n the tank. A lot of others on this sub have used it and seen good results from what I've read.

Additionally, I should add: He lives in a 10 gallon tank which is heated (80°F) and filtered sponge filter augmented with Whisper 3i which he's had since I got him over a year ago from when he was in a smaller tank.

He typically gets 25% weekly water changes although over a month ago I was gone for about a week and a half so there was a bit of a lapse.

Are these the same thing as that second one? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0056XVF82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_U4xKxbATT321Q

thanks! , I currently have 2 filters running, the sponge filter is here: Sponge Filter Link, and my other filter is a Marineland Penguin Biowheel 75, my light is the Marineland Advanced LED Strip Light, anywhere from $60 to $100 for 18", depends on where you look

O wow! That is amazing! I hope mine looks half as good as yours lol. In response to the cuttlebone and catappa leaf in the filter, I didn't realize you could add things inside the sponge filters. I'll post a link to the kind of sponge filter I decided on. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0056XVF82/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2JDO6NECWVBL2&colid=OAA927L82TRN

But would you think a sponge filter like this would be good for a betta tank?

ok, something like this could work
http://www.amazon.com/XY-2831-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium-10-gallon/dp/B0056XVF82/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1463855420&sr=8-8&keywords=sponge+filter

or this

http://www.amazon.com/XY-380-Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-Filter/dp/B0051XIN78/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463855420&sr=8-1&keywords=sponge+filter

Could work, keep in mind these are just examples and there are several brands out there that are similar in price and might have better shipping

3 gal is on smaller side for betta alone, without cories. If your room temperature is less than 78F/25C, heater for betta will be needed, any 25-50W heater should be enough. If you can get adjustable heater and it will keep temperature at 80F (not all of them do), even better.

With fish, having something for water flow and mechanical filtration is better than not having it, place outflow near heater for an even temperature distribution in the tank.

Fish will poop, cleaning has to be done, water changes too. Waiving tubing above substrate should not disturb plants and helps with collecting waste.

Sponge filter is good enough, especially T-shaped, it will bubble too. For running it you will need air pump and check valve to prevent siphoning water out if there will be power outage and air pump is below water level.

If internal water filter, it should have not too high flow, 10x tank volume per hour, not more, IMO. Hang on the back power filter like Azoo Mignon 550 or Deep Blue BioMaxx Nano will work too, flow is adjustable.

See r/nanotank for aquascaping ideas, it takes time and some resources, but the result is well worth it.

Something like this? http://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-Filter-Fish/dp/B0056XVF82#

It should be good but maybe you should get this: http://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-Filter-Fish/dp/B0056XVF82/ref=pd_sbs_petsupplies_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1V3G7JQJWAZ8VRNGXMPG

Would one like this work?

This one https://www.amazon.com/XY-2831-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium-10-gallon/dp/B0056XVF82

I have gotten that exact same heater to work for me, so you are out of luck there

How do I know if something like this is good enough? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0056XVF82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CeJjzbYQ2M13S

To piggyback off of Betta fish, besides the tank you can get your filter, heater, and light for pretty cheap.
Here's what I have:

filter
Air pump
light
heater

Altogether it might not be the cheapest items, but they work fantastic for me and my Betta and shrimp tank. Plus it costs less to get good filters and supplies first than it is to buy a beginner set and upgrade everything over time like I did.

this is what it all looks like in my tank.

My only suggestion is use a very simple air powered sponge filter, they are just a couple bucks, your aquarium will be crystal clear and very happy.

those are the best biological filters for the buck and micro setups work awesome with them, here is an example from amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-Filter-Fish/dp/B0056XVF82

I use this sponge filter. I have been using it for months and my adult and baby shrimp love grazing and chilling out on it.

Try to get the sponge filter like this https://www.amazon.com/XY-2831-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium-10-gallon/dp/B0056XVF82
It creates better flow for your aquarium.

I use this for a 5g. Dunno if you can use it in a 2g...

XY-2831 Air Pump Sponge Filter for Aquarium, Tank Size 10-gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0056XVF82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2lwRAb15PF8MM

Just to make sure I have this right is this a double sponge filter? It isn't listed as such but my common sense says it is.

What country are you located in?

Petco has the dollar per gallon sale every so often. So, you could get a 10 gal for $10

Then:

Sponge filter

Air pump tubing

Heater

Thermometer

Edit: this is just basics. Other things you'd need: a hood, a liquid test kit, Food- this one is just okay, cheaper in store to get Omega one pellets, absolutely need water conditioner- this one is very concentrated

XY-2831 Air Pump Sponge Filter for Aquarium, Tank Size 10-gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0056XVF82/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_PAIxwbQ1EP6QD

A gentle filter, I find, is pretty much vital in any tank, whether it's 1.5 gallons or 20. Without one, you'll have to do water changes of much higher volume and far more often, and not only is it annoying for you, it can be more stressful for your betta to constantly have to be acclimated to new water. You can use a power filter and baffle it with something so it's not so harsh, but I recommend a sponge filter, they are gentler, quieter, easier, and a hell of a lot cheaper. I have a 4.5 gallon tank (Such a strange size, no?) and I use this with a tetra whisper air pump. I'm rather fond of the filter I have now, as it suctions to the tank wall and leaves more space for him to explore, and it's easier to clean the gravel. As for tankmates, it depends on the personality of your betta and what he works best with. Mystery snails are popular as they help keep the tank clean. Tetras and shrimp are also popular. You can only experiment. My guy works awesome with the snail in his tank, but others have had their snail mysteriously murdered. Experiment with it, see how he does.

Non-mobile:

• http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LMQCW2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1427215003&sr=8-3&keywords=aquarium+sponge+filter&dpPl=1&dpID=41BWPVxOqPL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40
  
• http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0056XVF82/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1427215003&sr=8-2&keywords=aquarium+sponge+filter&dpPl=1&dpID=41bviD0w8GL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40
  
  ^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

In my divided tank, I have this filter with one of the intakes on each side. Then I angle the outflow into the divider to lessen the current and get water agitation on both sides. I never have the bio-film issue you see with some divided tanks, and both sides get adequate filtration. I have a 50w heater on one side, and monitor the temperature on the opposite side of the tank to ensure consistent temperature.

Since I have shrimp in the tank also, I just swapped out the whole filter/fountain/light assembly and removed its holder from the glass. For lighting, I went with http://www.thatpetplace.com/fluval-nano-performance-led-lamp-aqualife-plant (cost a pretty penny in the store, but I have no complaints about the plant growth).
For filter I went with http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056XVF82/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 hooked up to a generic 10gal air pump.

Originally I used a tandem of the stock light and an IKEA desk light next to the tank. Had some issues with the initial glow fish and aggression, so moved them to a larger tank and now have Neon Tetras in the tank with RCS. Imgur link: http://imgur.com/a/7XBLh

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0OJ9X8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056XVF82/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The second one is much smaller than it looks online, I was worried about size but it fits with ~2 inches to spare on either side on the side wall of my 10 gallon. It's just wider than my hand, and shorter with the telescoping tube down all the way.

As for the air pump, I'm like 99% sure it's the tetra whisper 10 gallon, but I'd need to find the box to be sure. I have it ran to a splitter that also allows me to adjust the airflow through the pumps like this.

You'll also want a couple of check valves, they basically ensure water won't backflow into the air pump and fry it out if the power goes off. They're basically little plastic cyclinders you connect the air tubing to, air can flow one way but not the other.

If you run a HOB with it, I'd just do one, probably the first link since the HOB would provide the circulation in the tank. You might want a smaller one though, that one's about 3 inches in diameter and takes up a good chunk of the back corner of my tank. I planted around it to make it less noticeable, but might be a little big in a 5 gallon.

Sorry I'm really bad at this, my first aquarium was a kit haha. This was one of the suggestions I got: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056XVF82/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A7SIQ2Y2T11UM

You said that the sponges themselves are filters so I'm assuming this is an in-water filter right?

Sponge filter works great for me. I was probably a bit too careful, but Axies don't tolerate a lot of water flow. I don't think a canister filter would be too bad, but I just wanted to be on the safe side. I actually have a double filter, so i can clean one at a time, every other week.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0056XVF82/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481733155&sr=8-1&keywords=dual+sponge+filter&pi=SY200_QL40

I have this one, but the 20 gallon version.

Ikea RANARP lamp with a 14 watt daylight compact fluorescent bulb

Substrate is pool filter sand and river pebbles.

Plants include several crypts, ludwigia repens and peruenis, susswassertang, java moss, bacopa, purple cabomba, riccia flutens, duckweed, frogbit, dwarf water lettuce, and an oriental sword.

Filter is a cheap sponge filter that I modified by drilling several pieces of driftwood out. I hollowed out the bottom piece to hide the sponge intake and then ran tubing up the long piece for the outflow.

Dosing with metricide (excel substitute), and NilocG macro and micro fertilizer.

It is pushing it for a Betta as they should be in something at least 5 gallons or so. This one does not have a heater as I was trying to hide all equipment so it would not be great for a betta. I will probably just stock it with a small snail or some of the red cherry shrimp culls from my other tanks.

I used this.

SEACHICKEN usually kept his distance from it but I guess he kinda just went to investigate. It's been in there for a few weeks.

Aquarium salts can help with fin rot. Macaryn Two is also a good choice. Be careful with aquarium salts though. Don't dose every time you do a water change like normal medication.

Also, I second the sponge filters. You can get one for a 10g one (which I'd recommend because the more filtration, the better) for like $5 on amazon. Plus you'd need an air pump which are also relatively cheap.

-Sponge Filter

-Air Pump

Never seen that before but it seems kind of redundant. I'd go with something like this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005LMQCW2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1427215003&sr=8-3&keywords=aquarium+sponge+filter&dpPl=1&dpID=41BWPVxOqPL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

That is the style sponge filter I always see breeders using and they seem to know what they are doing. Easy yo clean too just squeeze it out in old tank water.
I have one of these that works fine too and I can alternate cleaning the sponges so I don't upset the bacteria too much.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0056XVF82/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1427215003&sr=8-2&keywords=aquarium+sponge+filter&dpPl=1&dpID=41bviD0w8GL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

The rams are both male I think that they are fully grown. The kribs might be a pair. They were bought at the same time and one has grown bigger and has way more red on her stomach then the other one. I've had the eel for about 2 months and my method of feeding of feeding him is to wait until lights out, melt a cube of blood worms in a zip lock bag and dump it in. Most of it gets eaten by the barbs and tetras but a good amount hits the substrate which the eel probably eats. The eel is about 5 inches. The barbs are still juveniles. Also, I'm running this filter http://amzn.com/B0056XVF82
Should I still get a aquaclear?

Finally getting around to installing a CO2 system in my established, planted 45g community tank. The tank is mainly comprised of mosses, dwarf hair grass, tall hair grass, crypts, and a few java plants. I've had problems with black beard algae so I adjusted my light regimen and treated it with H2O2 until it was gone. Now I'm getting growths of green algae, so at this point I'm ready to install a DIY paintball CO2 system to combat the algae, so I can use my lights to their full potential, and to increase plant growth. The parts listed below are my starting point, let me know your thoughts...

Milwaukee MA957 Regulator

Adapter

CO2 Hose--Couldn't find a clear one in 3/16ID

Diffuser

Drop Checker

Check Valve

Timer

For a total of $141 before tax

What is your opinion on this setup?


Additionally I think my Aquaclear 110 is on its last leg so and I'm looking to convert to a canister filter (one that won't break the bank). Should I go with the SunSun HW304B or the SunSun HW704B

This is what I've got going on.

I bought this cap/hose system

This diffuser

You don't absolutely need a bubble counter but you could buy one if you want to be more precise. Also, the cap/hose thing allows for an easy and simple set up.

I got it off amazon

Rhinox Nano CO2 Diffuser - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058XWDFO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_E-N8BbVBCYAE0

Sure! I had started a thread here when I was buying my parts.

• CO2 Regulator
  
  
• 20oz CO2 Tank
  
  
• CO2 Diffuser

I am like you, and have done DIY until very recently. Spend the money. You won't regret the purchase. I was only slightly over 100 bucks on mine, but it was worth every penny to be rid of the hassle. The only issue with the valve I'll recommend is that you can't go over 1500 PSI even though the bottle I'll recommend is rated for 1800. Make sure to mention that when you get the bottle filled. The regulator is only rated at 1500. Here is what I bought.

CO2 Regulator
CO2 Tank
CO2 Diffuser

So yea, some tips. Don't fill tank over 1500 PSI. Make sure green knob is all the way in off position and it's not plugged in when you screw on the regulator. Screw on the regulator ALL THE WAY. Plug regulator in, slowly open the green knob. This assumes you have all the tubing hooked up. The bubble counter is super handy :) It only costs me 5 dollars to fill up the tank at Dicks sporting goods store. So after the upfront cost, I can run multiple tanks with a splitter off this, for a 5 dollar every few months fee. Totally worth it for the consistent bubbles and lack of hassle from DIY. If you get a timer, you can plug your regulator and light into it and you can control when the CO2 and light come on. You just need to trust us man, 130 bucks for this is worth it... so worth it. The bubble counter comes in the regulator I linked. The only things you'll need to buy other than what I posted for a 100% system is silicon tubing to link it all up, and maybe some suction cups. I didn't list this because that's a few dollars at most on Amazon. Don't listen to the 300 dollar crowd, my system is sub 150 and works just as well as theirs.

Would highly recommend a system.

Is that the same thing as this?

http://www.amazon.com/Drop-Checker-Indicator-Aquarium-Diffuser/dp/B005C74ZCA/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1411949320&sr=1-1&keywords=drop+checker

I'm not sure I really understand them.

Short tanks are tough for co2 for that reason, totally understandable. What I recomend is a finer diffuser such as This one

Place it low, under the bulkheads for flow.

It shouldn't be very much co2 at all for the 5 gallon, and most micro bubbles SHOULD dissipate before the surface tension breaks.

Check your variable PH With This to make sure enough co2 is being dissolved and replace the solution about once a week.

Edit:

In addition, make sure to only run co2 30 to 60 minutes before lights come on until about an hour before the lights go off. Plants don't grow at night.

Oh! Also, let's see a picture of this tank so we can save it later for a program pic!

https://www.amazon.com/Sera-Flore-Active-CO2-Reactor/dp/B007A0PI0U


The only other thing you would want is a drop checker to have some type monitor of the co2 level in the tank.

https://www.amazon.com/Rhinox-Glass-Drop-Checker-Kit/dp/B005C74ZCA

http://i.imgur.com/kujrMR6.jpg
2.5 gallon

Fauna: 4x White Cloud Minnow

Flora: Hemianthus Callitrichoides
Cryptocoryne Parva
Marimo Moss
Unknown plant in the back. Trying to find something to fill in the back.

Driftwood: Manzanita

Equipment: Beamswork 12" LED
Deep Blue Biomaxx Nano Filter
Rhinox Glass Drop Checker
Rhinox 1000 Glass Diffuser
Empire Paintball 24oz. CO2 tank
AquaTek Mini CO2 Regulator
AquaTek CO2 Tubing
DIY Teabag + Activated Carbon filter
Plug Timer

Dosing: 0.5 mL/day Flourish Excel
0.5mL/week Flourish Comprehensive
CO2: 8 hours, Light: 8 hours, offset 30 minutes.

Looks really good. Question though - what is that little glass ball thingy in your tank (not the diffuser). Something to do with CO2? I see them on here a lot.

Edit: answering my own question... it's this: https://www.amazon.com/Rhinox-Glass-Drop-Checker-Kit/dp/B005C74ZCA

• What is your water temp?
  
• What light are you using and for how many hours?
  
• What substrate are you using?
  
• Are you diffusing your CO2 or just releasing large bubbles?
  
• Are you testing your CO2 levels? You can get a drop checker kit for $12 on amazon if not.
  
• What are you using for water circulation in the tank?
  
• What are you dosing and how often?
  
• What are your water changes like? This is important, you will read places that tell you to do 50%, 25%, with experience to backup each. I spent a shit ton of money on dwarf baby tears before I found the only way to keep them alive was with a 10% water change 1-2x per week. Once I figured that out, they exploded.

Ok I kind of figured. That was the only one I saw at the price.

Do you think this 4 in 1 diffuser would be good? I have a 6 gal fluval tank this will be for.

Yosoo U-shape DIY 4 in 1 Co2 Diffuser for DIY Co2 System Check Valve Bubble Counter Planted Aquarium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YA5L0TG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iqh6AbKMCAJR5

And this air line

UEETEK 5 M Silicon Aquarium Pump Hose Standard Airline Tubing with 2 PCS 4 MM Aquarium Check Valves for Aquariums Fish Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072NB7NXP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Qrh6Ab4KB4WW4

May get another larger tank later down the road to move this setup to, not sure though.

Edit: oh and would I need one of those glass drop checkers like this:

Rhinox Glass Drop Checker Kit - 3 Seconds to Read CO2 levels - 3 Minutes to Setup - Fastest way to ensure sufficient Co2 in Planted Aquarium - Includes pH Reagent indicator solution & Color chart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005C74ZCA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1sh6AbJ3EP8Q1

This video? That's not really a sponge filter. It's the same principle, different implementation.

If you're going to go out and buy an air pump, go ahead and get a check valve + a sponge filter with it. It's much less trouble than building it yourself.

Here's the one I'm upgrading to.

I've just got a betta, a nerite, and 6 neon tetras, and a ton of plants.

as I understand it the nerite right now is probably unhappy with that low of a PH, and I'm worried about the PH dipping low enough to stop the beneficial bacteria from processing ammonia.

I'm running a HOB filter and also a small sponge filter like This so I think I have enough aeration?

http://www.amazon.com/Jardin-Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-Filter/dp/B0089KVC32/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1457968706&sr=8-4&keywords=sponge+filter

Just some cheap miracle-gro potting soil off the shelf in the hardware store. No flourite. I had some leftover eco-complete from when I did my big tank, so I tried to cap it with that, but I ended up just using petco aquarium gravel for the cap, mostly.

I've read that for a walstad tank, you don't really want to get the kind with peat. I think it's because it adds more organics that decompose quicker? (I might have just made that up, though).

Though they say you don't need a filter, I got one of these: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0089KVC32/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_dAFHwb0AXWYJE to just add a little flow and help clean up the water while I let it settle down.

Plants include some random stuff I don't know that I got from my big tank, some chain swords, and some repens.

It's only been set up for about 3 weeks or so and I'm super excited to see how it looks in a couple of months.

You think I'll need an airstone if I use this?

This is the sponge filter I currently have - SPonge

This is what I was looking to get (not at all sure) - FIlter

I forgot the exact name of the catfish but I believe they are Panda Catfish - or look very similar. This is 1 https://imgur.com/OkgmIJj the other one look exactly the same but about half again as big.

​

I hve 2 air pumps. 1 came with the 3 gallon tank set up I got on Amazon - see Here (just realized its a 3 gallon not a 5)

And then I purchased an air pump - Pump

And maybe I got the name wrong for the glofish, the pet store I could swore said neon tetra on the tank but I have those and definitely not that - https://imgur.com/8xNmjPi .EDIT- You can see them better in the OP picture if you click on it. Reason I ask is because my Betta was going after them the first day and they seemed SUPER chill. I haven't seen them try to nip at anything so far. Although its been 3 days. Also the catfish was in the tank w them so I figured they would get a long.

​

OK so the guy in the petstore told me i can have up to 20 fish in the 10 gallon. It's a private store not petco or petsmart/petland etc. Is that not the case then? I don't want to crowd my tank I was just planning on getting 2 more colors of the "Glofish" and that was probably going to be it.

​

Thanks!!

Here is the desktop version of your link

No it is not bad but long term is will be bad for fish because of low oxygen levels and may cause fin rot. You can take the film with absorbent paper in the mean while but a mini air stone will solve your problem for good. This is the airstone i bought.

Mylivell Quietest Aquarium Air Pump Ultra Silent High Energy Saving Oxygen Air Pump Aquarium for Fish Tank with Air Stone and Silicone Tube Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTSR8Y8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_N1ONDbD2BF1FP

This one is good to. Just check the voltage if u are not in the USA (it is 110v, so you’ll need a mini transformer if your voltage is 220v)

Hygger Quiet Mini Air Pump for Aquarium 1.5 Watt Oxygen Fish Air Pump for 1-15 Gallon Fish Tank with Accessories Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HKGB88M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_O3ONDbVGX05F8

Thanks for the advice. Would a pump like this one be sufficient: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01MTSR8Y8/ref=psdc_2975471011_t2_B0009YHU6Y?th=1 ?

How big is your tank? I got this one and it works perfectly in a 10 gallon and in a 20 gallon long. It's just enough movement to reduce biofilm and lack of movement, but not enough to disturb the betta.

I actually ordered everything individually from Amazon. I’m sure you could probably find everything locally as well but it was easier for a newbie like me to get it all from the same place.

Aluminum CO2 Paintball Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0008G2WAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_J3vBDbY97P8E0 - $22 ( + $5 to fill with CO2)

Aquarium CO2 Regulator with... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F7P8TL3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share - $53

AQUATEK CO2 Paintball Tank CGA... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004M49QDC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share - $12

aFe Power Magnum FORCE 54-11473... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N36MAO4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share - $18

AQUATEK CO2-Proof Tubing 16 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008UCOFJW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_z6vBDbMW07193 - $8

Century 24 Hour Plug-in... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVFF59S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share - $9

Aquarium Carbon Dioxide CO2... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C9DGXV0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share - $11

Total: $148

Again, total newbie and this is the bare minimum of quality and price I was comfortable with. I plan on upgrading to a bigger tank and a better regulator in a few months. Do your own research too.

This one? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C6HKTN6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sfLJBb1FJRD9S

Minimum Setup is only 3 items

Tank

regulator

Diffuser

I am using this regulator and this adapter with some cheap co2 paintball tanks. Been working great so far, the solenoid valve is really useful.

I got this, should be fine right?

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B010PRHDWK/ref=pd_aw_sim_199_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=5NMD17NXZJHQYTNMD2HT&dpPl=1&dpID=817jmsS4awL

I am quite happy with the following (I use on a 10 gallon and a 3 gallon at the same time using a T-fitting and two diffusers and two indicators):

Diffuser @$16.99 ea https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXFUGE5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This diffuser is good for hanging on the side of your tank. There are many others to choose from.

7 day timer @$14.65 (Three prong plug for regulator solenoid): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006LYHEHG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You DO NOT want to let it run overnight because they say it will suffocate your fish.

CO2 indicator @#17.89 (need one for each tank) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Z9KWTHS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

CO2 proof tubing @#9.99 (regular tubing may leak CO2!) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008UCOFJW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Regulator with bubble counter and solenoid @$69.99 (Yes, this one works great at that price) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N42JPDV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Adaptor fitting to get regulator attached to a paintball tank @$9.90 (I had to modify this part, so pay attention): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I2UMZ2Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Paintball tank @$21.49 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XKFQCM/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dicks Sporting Goods will refill for $5 using your tank.

The issue with the adaptor is that the one I got had a bleed-off relief hole too far down in the threads such that the hole was exposed even when the tank was fully screwed in because the thread depth on the tank was shallow (fewer turns total) compared to the adaptor, Had to plug and re-drill the hole.

You should at least look at these components as part of your evaluation.

I got these three things.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008TJCPSY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1414104173&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004MFGRLA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1414104269&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008UCOFJW/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr1_1?qid=1414104332&sr=8-1-fkmr1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

Well the DIY setup is definitely not dangerous. It's just pressurized gas in a 2 liter soda bottle. Worst case scenario, it explodes and makes a really loud sound, and gets vinegar all over your room.

And yes, those are almost the only three products you'll need. You will also need a basic electric timer for like six bucks, and some rubber tubing for the CO2.

Edit: Link to some tubing

Awesome! Does this tubing look better?

Thanks for your feedback!

Okay this is easy then.

Don't use tap water for anything at all.

1. First we need to get your TDS down to where it should be.
   We are going to do what is called a water restart. You are going to empty the water (save 5 gallons of water in a bucket and put the little guy you have left in the bucket).
   
   You will have to purchase this product (http://www.hanaquatics.com/salty-shrimp-shrimp-mineral-gh-kh/)
   If you get 200g it will last you a lifetime.
   
   Once all the water is drained you will fill the RO/DI water into buckets and add the salty shrimp to RO/DI water until the TDS is between 200-250. Add this water to your tank. Now your tank should be between 200-250 TDS.
   
   Wait 24 hours with the filter running etc.
   
   Take a small bucket of water and drip acclimate your shrimp (see: https://youtu.be/ZSnJjTEjWyU).
   
   This is going to take a few hours. Every 30-45 mins make sure to take some water out of the bucket. Eventually the water in your bucket and the water in the tank will be within 20 TDS of each other. When the water in the bucket is close to the water in the tank you will be set to transfer the new shrimp into his home.
   
   
2. Top off water with RO/DI water. Dont worry about pH swings you will have enough kH in your water that it will be a non issue.
   
   
3. Neos are pretty hardy. You could probably go 3-4 weeks easy before you will need a water change depending on how much crap you add to your water. When your tank gets to 250-300 TDS (or 3-4 weeks depending on which happens first) it's time for a water change.
   
   
4. When doing a water change the end goal is to make sure the TDS will end up between 200-250 TDS. It's a little bit of a guessing game (since I hate sitting down and doing all the math) but lets say your tank is at 300 TDS. I would do a 20% water change and when I am adding new water to the tank I would add gh/kh+ to the new RO/DI water until the TDS was 120-150. Once I added that to the tank the tanks TDS should normalize to about where I want it.
   
   A few pointers about your tank:
   
   
5. You will want a new filter. From the picture I saw I would araid of shrimplets getting sucked up into the big cracks you have on the filter you have. I would suggest a small aquaclear and to purchase one of these (http://www.hanaquatics.com/ss-filter-guard/)
   
   
6. I would purchase a small air powered filter (http://www.amazon.com/XinYou-Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-XY-2821/dp/B009V3UGDS) or (http://www.amazon.com/XY-380-Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-Filter/dp/B0051XIN78)
   
   The sponge filter will grow mincroorganisms that the shrimp love to eat. It will allow your shrimp to graze and be healthy at all times.
   
   I know this is a large wall of text but once you get the hang of it Neocardina are quite forgiving.
   
   NOTE: The salty Shrimp gh/kh is very concentrated so a little will go a long way.

For my 10g I bought this filter http://amzn.com/B009V3UGDS
I also have the valve pointed towards the glass of the aquarium so the surface isn't too turbid for my betta

I recommend getting the filters off amazon rather than an LFS, they're a bit marked up at all the LFS I've been to.

Does this look like an alright one? Just to get an idea of what to look for. Or would this he too much for my ten gallon?
https://www.amazon.ca/Powkoo-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium-Gallons/dp/B010PRHDWK/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549772796&sr=8-1-fkmr2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Powkoo+Air+Pump+Sponge+Filter+Bio+Filter+for+Aquarium+Fish+Tank+Up+to+60+Gallons

I bought this one for my mom's tank that has worked out really well, I think it's this is the one. Pretty much any basic sponge will do. You can also DIY one really easily!

I would go with this.

It is specifically designed to transport co2 and won't grow brittle or fail over time like many other tubing will, including silicone which is the kind you are buying. Silicone also has fairly high co2 permeability, which makes it at least a wasteful choice in terms of tubing.

I use this: http://www.amazon.com/AQUATEK-CO2-Proof-Tubing-16-Feet/dp/B008UCOFJW

It's pretty good- I've done research and can't figure out which tubing is the best otherwise (like what can be picked up from a hardware store)

I’ve also seen a guy on YouTube with like twenty tanks, all with this filter and he preaches them like crazy. I’ve never tried them, but the low maintenance and bacterial perk makes them very attractive. That other sponge filter that was just posted looks good too, and might take up less space. The downside is that you have to put them in the water, which might seem unsightly if you care about that kind of thing.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010PRHDWK/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1549773339&sr=8-6&keywords=sponge+filter&dpPl=1&dpID=41Jjb7PLjlL&ref=plSrch

I just switched to using a python and I love it. No buckets, no manual syphons, just hook it up to your sink and follow the directions.

Unfortunately turtle poop is sometimes too big to be picked up by a gravel vacuum :( I use one too, the biggest one the pet store has, and it'll get little pieces but I still scoop up larger pieces (and shell scutes that have shed) with an old fish net. My gravel vac now is mostly used for emptying the tank into buckets. People recommend these for bucket-less easy water changes though.

And yep, I use sand! A little bit of sand has gotten into my filter but that's mostly when I'm too impatient to let the sand settle before turning the filter back on after cleanings. It's important when you first get sand to wash it really well in a bucket to rinse out all the finer particles ("dust") that don't settle quickly. If you rinse it well enough it won't cloud the tank except for a little while after first adding it. I keep my filter intake a few inches above the sand. A little bit of sand got into my filter's motor and I was able to get it out. I use Fluval and you can buy new parts for their filters, so if I broke the motor I'd have to only replace that instead of a whole new filter. I don't know about other brands, but that gave me a little peace of mind about the sand.

And yeah, turtles are little bulldozers!!

Fishkeeping can be really high effort or really low effort, depending on the animals you choose, the tank size you choose, the filter size you choose, and how much cash you're willing to shell out.

I have several tanks, and my largest tank is definitely the easiest to maintain (my Python does all the heavy lifting for me). My smallest, my ten-gallon, is definitely the most energy (gotta keep that sand clean, goddamn it), but even that one isn't more than maybe 15 minutes every couple days.

My recommendation to keep everything low-energy: pick easy creatures to care for and do not overstock. Get a GOOD filter, with way more filtration than you need. If you're starting out with the right stocking and equipment, everything else will be easier. AqAdvisor is a good resource for a beginner who is trying to figure out stocking stuff. Aquarium Wiki also has good info on stocking a 10-gallon.

Hmm yeah perhaps I'm mistaken then. For the counterpart, does the sink water run directly into the tank with this? http://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC/ref=pd_bxgy_petsupplies_text_y

I use a tube siphon to get water from the tank, though haven't gone directly into a sink or anything. I don't mind the bucket for taking water out, it's putting it back in where it's a tad daunting.

If you want to make water changes a breeze, ditch the bucket and get a python system. You'll never go back. python on Amazon

Here is the desktop version of your link

Is it possible through a series of adapters to connect this kind of sink hose to a garden hose? I'm trying to connect this kind of sink to this product:

http://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC

https://imgur.com/a/SYoot

Aquarium Maintenance System

So useful to fill & drain buckets & swamp coolers that don't fit in the sink. I keep the short side permanently attached to the deep sink to quickly clean kegging equipment, get into fermenters, clean glass & growlers. I have even used it attached to the hot water heater to pasteurize cider.

https://www.amazon.com/Python-13B-Aquarium-Replacement-Pump/dp/B000255NVE/ref=pd_sim_199_4/138-8997213-9091558?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000255NVE&pd_rd_r=3c0178fd-341d-48c0-a546-42ec345bba94&pd_rd_w=5sNDE&pd_rd_wg=yC2Ka&pf_rd_p=5c130f77-a5ef-4ffd-9db1-c29a354f52f9&pf_rd_r=AJWMGK8F8W3STDJKSEQG&psc=1&refRID=AJWMGK8F8W3STDJKSEQG

So this is the piece I bought. I don't have a faucet adapter but that's not really an issue. The problem is that I thought I could just stick my tubing into the hose end of this pump. However, water would not flow down the tubing and into the bucket and instead overflowed in the pump. I was looking at the python water maintenance system, which is what this pump is supposed to be for

https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC/ref=pd_bxgy_199_img_3/138-8997213-9091558?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000255NXC&pd_rd_r=b39db634-f205-4686-bb9f-04e1b11fc6ff&pd_rd_w=xIXTj&pd_rd_wg=uu2Na&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=7TNQW6ZGBF3YF5JCYMVX&psc=1&refRID=7TNQW6ZGBF3YF5JCYMVX

And I noticed that there is a little component at the end of the tubing (opposite end of the vacuum) that supposedly screws onto the hose end of the pump and brings water to the tubing. I believe that it's called a tubing adapter? Not sure.

If it's hard to do a water change.. you're doing it wrong.

https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC

After a water change you'd be all set.

If you don't have one, invest in a Python; They make water changes so much more convenient.

I have a 30 gallon mixing jug in my closet which is in my kitchen. I would suggest looking for closets/end of hallways/corners where you can keep a mixing station that's out of sight. I just use a pump to get me about 5m across the kitchen. You'll need a more powerful pump to get you your 15m but that'll take some experimentation. To take water out I just use a Python and there are extensions available.

There is a product called the python, which is a siphon that has an adaptor for your sink!

Link: https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC

or one of these bad boys!

http://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458013348&sr=8-1&keywords=aquarium+python

So, ich hab noch mal ein paar Fragen:

1.) Kannst du einen Mulmsauger empfehlen, der auch für Wasserwechsel taugt (so wie der hier z. B.)?

2.) Für das Einfahren werde ich ja Ammoniak brauchen. Wäre diese 25% Ammoniak Lösung unbedenklich? Die restlichen 75% sind bloß Wasser.

3.) Ich hatte ja eigentlich vor mit so 10x Garnelen anzufangen. Aber nach dem Einfahren werde ich ja Tiere brauchen, die genügend Ammoniak produzieren, um die Bakterien am Leben zu halten, korrekt? Garnelen scheinen aber nur eine sehr geringe Bio-Last zu verursachen (weniger sogar als manche Schnecken). Heißt das dann es bleiben eben nur so viele Bakterien am Leben, wie die Garnelen Bio-Last produzieren? Müsste ich weiter Ammoniak hinzugeben? Oder sollte ich vielleicht doch einfach gleich mit genügend Fischen anfangen? Etwas verwirrend das ganze...

Is that a... gasp... bucket?!?! You really need to get yourself a Python.

Auto siphoning, simple twist on the faucet to go from siphon to refilling, a switch to control siphon strength/refill speed... Seriously, if you have a tank over 10g it's worth the price 100 times over.

this kind, hooks up to a sink:

​

https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC

These things are amazing.
(corporate shill here btw)

This is the one I have. http://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC

There is also a 50ft model.

My thoughts going down your list...

> Duel Bulb 120v Florescent light fixture

Depending on the plants you select and the blubs in the fixture you may not have enough lighting. I would do 2 things, do some research on the light bulbs to get a rough idea of why kind of plays they can support. Then be sure to buy those types of plants.

> Heaters

Start with the 50W while the tank is cycling, depending on brand effectiveness the 100 might be to much.

> Prime

It's great stuff, cheap and highly concentrated so read the directions on this.

> Aqueon water conditioner

Expensive version of prime. I used to use it before I found prime, it works just fine. Just more expensive to buy.

> Siphon thingy

Python most pet stores have them too. There is no discussion on this point, no bucket, no carrying, no mess. Get. A. Python. (or similarly designed replacement)

>Canister Filter

The filter you have is sufficient. A canister would be overkill. 30g is right on the border between power filter and a canister land. Unless you really don't like looking at it, I'd just stick with what you have.

The one I'm looking into is this one 25 Foot - Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NXC/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_l-bIub0QMP65T

Just look up the python water change system on Google or Amazon and then search for knockoffs. For a few bucks more you can also get their hook add-on and water changes become hands free.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NXC

Even better, get yourself a Python. These are designed for aquarium cleaning but work amazingly well for for pet bath time.

Don't get me wrong, removable shower heads are good too, but if you're only getting something for your pet and not the both of you, this trumps all.

Python is a brand that makes a system that connects directly to your sink and allows you to drain and fill directly connected to the sink, no buckets.

https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC

How far from a sink is it? My husband uses one of these to run warm tap water to a basement aquarium and it works like a charm.

Yes, people are talking about the Python Water Changer. It lets you siphon and refill using your faucet. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC&ved=0ahUKEwjekfPjiILWAhXK7SYKHQazDHwQFghjMAA&usg=AFQjCNFngql1jdu7NGA5zGtriDUAK1mLIw

Its not too hard if you get something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Python-25NS-25-Feet-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC

It takes less than half an hour to change 50% of my 75 gallons, and most of it is me sitting on my couch watching TV trying not to forget I have it running.

I did a DIY sump filter that you can find plans for all over the place.

https://imgur.com/a/o4DED

I have a siphon overflow on my aquarium with a small pump attached to it to prevent losing it's siphon or restarting it after power failure/water changes.

The water flows into the top draw of filter floss for filtering, then trickles into the second drawer over top of plastic scrubbies and finally into the the third drawer where it is filled with lava rocks that are permanently submerged in water. A water pump returns the water to the top of the tank have the process repeat itself over and over.

I further ran a small water line (think freezer ice maker water line) that constantly tops off the tank from evaporation and cycles the water to some extent to the point where I do water changes about every two-three months. In the second photo of the sump you can see an overflow tube that takes any excess water down to my basement to a drain there. Water changes every couple months isn't so much a necessity as the water clarity and pollutants really don't change in that time frame but I do it for peace of mind/get the gunk the guppies aren't eating off the bottom.

For water changes I can't recommend the python enough. It is crazy how easy this has made water changes for my aquariums.

https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506469996&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=python+aquarium+water+changing

Oh man.. you need a Python and whatever adapters you want

Here is a link for a lot of videos on what it does

I have one for my 12 long and only use it to fill. Its worth the setup for a 5 gallon water change since Im not dumping or splashing water around the tank

Whoops! This is the Python (25 Foot - Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AZzXCbHD07BBY)

Cool! Where does the purified water then go? Into a 5 gallon bucket or something?

Sorry I didnt mean just a regular gravel vaccum. I meant the python no spill clean and fill water changer. It's like $50 not $5...

The one that connects to the faucet:
25 Foot - Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ee4QCb2MVNR07

I'm in the final stages of planning/buying my loop.

But now that you mention it I totally want to try using this tool I have for my aquarium to assist in suction.

It must be pretty fast acting, I was worried it'd be hard in the fish. I live in Canada so idk about buying stuff online.. Popular sites like liveaquaria don't even ship across the border.

If I can't find anything near me, I'll see about ordering off plantedaquarium.

Edit: plantedaquarium redirected me to Arizona Aquarium Group or something and when I looked them up the reviews were horribly so..idk.

http://www.amazon.ca/Python-25NS-25-Feet-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1426085439&sr=1-1&keywords=python Is this the python siphon you meant?

THis is what use i have a short garden hose going from my bathroom to link 1 being in my commode then ihave this on the other end and never have an issue


https://www.amazon.com/Python-13B-Aquarium-Replacement-Pump/dp/B000255NVE/ref=pd_sim_199_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000255NVE&pd_rd_r=WNXK5PRH55C2W9TGA6J0&pd_rd_w=MII6T&pd_rd_wg=vJEVx&psc=1&refRID=WNXK5PRH55C2W9TGA6J0



https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC/ref=pd_sim_199_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000255NXC&pd_rd_r=28H3RTT8BS8AWF8TP0AJ&pd_rd_w=LitCh&pd_rd_wg=mUiY3&psc=1&refRID=28H3RTT8BS8AWF8TP0AJ

Here is the mobile version of your link

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000255NXC/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000255NXC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538278803&sr=8-1&keywords=python+water+changer&dpPl=1&dpID=51YeYVxMgBL&ref=plSrch

I do a similar water change with the Python water change system (got it here https://amzn.com/B000255NXC) and always mix in the water conditioner as it fills, so far no issues. Filling with pre-declorinated water is of course the safest, but really can't beat the efficiency of straight from faucet for large tanks.

Sorry for the dumb question, but i found it on Amazon with 4 sizes, 25, 50, 75, and 100
What's the difference? Is it how long the gravel tube is? or how long the water tube?

Hey OP, try this. TOTALLY worth the price! Drains water directly into your sink. I am sure you can find it cheaper in other places.

http://www.amazon.com/Python-No-Spill-Clean-Fill/dp/B000255NXM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1348601844&sr=8-4&keywords=python+siphon

You'll need the sponge some airline tubing and an air pump.
Then just hook it up. Different sponge being used by same concept

You already saw my other comment, but I'll add one more thing here: You might want to consider a small "sponge filter" for a 6.6 gallon tank instead of the hang-over-back filter. Most hang-over-back filters are for 10 gallons or more, so if you can't find a smaller one, just get these materials for a sponge filter:

• a small sponge filter. They look like this.
  
• a small air pump, like this.
  
• "airline" tubing to connect the pump to the filter. Like this.
  
• an airline valve. Like this. You'll need this to lower the amount of air being pumped to the filter. For a 6.6 gallon tank, you don't need much air to keep the tank filtered. Start out with the valve all the way open (lots and lots of bubbles, the tank will look like a hurricane is blowing through). Then, slowly close the valve until the water looks calm and the fishies don't look like they're fighting a current.
  
  The nice thing about sponge filters is you rarely need to clean them. I've run them for over a year without cleaning them and never had an issue. Super convenient.

Word. You'll also need a small air pump and a length of rubber tubing.

Air Pump

Tubing

10 Gallon pump
V
Check valve
V
Sponge Filter
V
Tubing

The check valve is a one way valve, which keeps water from coming backwards through the hose into the pump. This could happen during a power outage.

Nah, never skimp out on airstones and filtration. Female bettas are solitary except in very large, heavily planted tanks, they are very aggressive fish too. High quality pellets like hikari pellets should be alternated with frozen food, my bettas usually took both. Flower pot is for a hiding cave, and ducky might be too bright and stress out the fish. Natural decor looks prettier imo than man made stuff anywho, especially if you do it right. Never use test strips, they're expensive and innacurate, liquid test kits are the better option. Basically add seachem stability to the water for as long as it says, and put fish food in to make ammonia for the bacteria to feed on. Once you hit 0 ammonia and nitrite you're good.

For filtration supplies my recommendations are:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NP8W84/ref=cm_cr_othr_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8#cm_cr_carousel_images_section
https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-Aquariums-Flexible-Standard/dp/B0002563MW/ref=pd_aw_fbt_199_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=T5060PXA17HMGYQ77ABQ&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Easy-Aquariums-Non-UL/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=pd_aw_sim_199_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=M73HJGY41F3HX940NJJG&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B076S3D75C/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1539721622&sr=8-4&keywords=small+airstone&dpPl=1&dpID=41QZJrnKZZL&ref=plSrch
And of course seachem prime and stability

What are you doing to cycle your tank? If you don't know the answer to this question, take a look at the Fishless Cycling Guide to understand the nitrogen cycle and how to properly prepare your tank for animals.

If you don't have a filter in your tank yet, you haven't really begun to prepare the tank for inhabitants until you do. For a sponge filter, you will need a sponge filter, airline tubing, and air pump. I also strongly recommend you purchase check valves and control valves to prevent the airline from becoming a siphon and draining your tank in the event of a power outage or air pump failure, and to control the airflow to your filter, respectively.

The ideal water quality results are 0ppm Ammonia, 0ppm Nitrites, 20ppm or lower Nitrates. Your pH is fine for ADFs. A fully cycled tank should be able to convert 4ppm of added Ammonia to the tank completely to Nitrates within 24hrs. Once you test your water within 24hrs and find this result, it is ready for animals.

ADF names: Frogsby, Frogbert, and Fred.

At one point didn't transthetics have the option to buy detachable balls that could be added to their prosthetics? I could have swore that was a thing but looking at their website now I don't see it. It sucks because that would hit everything you want.

I have a couple freetom prosthetics. I've never heard of anyone that offers to add an ejaculation system to posthetics you already have unfortunately. You might be able to DIY some sort of ejaculation system for them? Like if you filled something with lube and put it in the shaft and squeezed the shaft, or maybe put it more in the base with a tube going up the shaft. Using a tube like that would be the only way it could work if you also wanted to use the insertable rod that comes with freetom prosthetics. My first thought is one of those little cake pipette things like these with a tube attached, maybe like this or this? Kind of similar to the idea of combining the peecock pleasure rod with a freetom but hopefully without the problem of pieces of it sticking out or not fitting right, and without having to buy a whole second prosthetic. No idea if that would actually work or not though. I also found this link talking about another method of piecing together different parts of different packers, but using cheaper products, maybe that would work?

Ah just airline tubing, like this

Set up for single Axolotls

Realistic initial start up cost $135
Excluding cost of axolotl

$5-$40 20g tank MINIMUM preferably 30g (offer up, let go, Facebook groups and pet stores)

$1-$70Hides - decor or caves or even home made must be water safe even pvc piping works minimum of 2 (decor can become expensive fast if you want to make your tank look very “pretty”)

$20-$30Filter - something with low current flow sponge filter or a canister filter with something to break up a strong flow if you have a sponge filter you need air line tubing and a air pump

Bacto-Surge High Density Foam Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GOFPX9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oov7AbY5ESARC

Penn Plax Airline Tubing for Aquariums –Clear and Flexible Resists Kinking, 25 Feet Standard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002563MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kpv7AbQ20H9V7

Tetra Whisper Easy to Use Air Pump for Aquariums (Non-UL) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YF4FI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Hpv7AbC3Y8R2Z

$10-$15 Water additives
Water dechlorinator follow instructions on bottle if the tank isn’t fully cycled use prime plus follow instructions on bottle

API TAP WATER CONDITIONER Aquarium Water Conditioner 16-Ounce Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1qv7AbHFPEHT5

Tetra 77960 SafeStart, 15-Gallon, 50-ml, 1.69-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003E2RI74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1tv7AbDHHEMEY

$20-$35 API water test kit to make sure the water is in good parameters
http://www.axolotl.org/requirements.htm

API FRESHWATER MASTER TEST KIT 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water Master Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zvv7AbK35G0WW

$2-$10 Aquarium thermometer that reads down to 60 degrees F

CNZ Digital LCD Thermometer for Aquarium Fish Tank Vivarium Reptile Terrarium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KPXVI94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yxv7Ab1NSQ5H6

$5-$20 Aquarium syphon

Aqueon Medium Siphon Vacuum Aquarium Gravel Cleaner, 9-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RK1WBK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2aw7Ab3Z5KS9B

Feeding

$2.50-$3 Fishing earth worms (Walmart sporting goods section)
$10-$15 blister pack of 30 blood worm cubes (I can sell them to you while supplies last for $15 or you can buy them at any pet shop that sells fish)

Earth worms when they get bigger try to feed them nibbles of a worm like the size of their head and move up as they get bigger and frozen blood worms for first month to month and a half try to feed the earth worms to the axolotls ever couple days by hand until they start accepting them they might start accepting earth worms as soon as a week after receiving them from me (feed frozen blood worms every other day until they are regularly eating pieces of worm )

Maintenance

You can use a turkey baster and clean up their poops as you see them you’ll still have to do water changes but much less water 25%-35% or use a syphon once a week and do a 30%-50% water change along with the water dechlorinator and some of the safe start plus make sure to test the water regular with the api test kit

Keeping the water to the correct temperature

60-64F is the perfect water temp for them but it can be hard to achieve during summer but doing more regular water changes can help with that and putting a fan over the aquarium blowing on it will help by up to 4-5 degrees

NO SAND OR GRAVEL ESPECIALLY NO GRAVEL EVER sand maybe fine once they are 6-7inches but they will swallow it and they can become impacted and possibly lead to death

Yes, I taped an air pump needle to the airline tubing with some duct tape. The air-line with a couple of layers of duct tape will fit snuggly through a water bottle sports cap.

When you say "diffuser," I'm picturing a ceramic disc that the CO2 runs up under, something like this: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41LDxWbIrsL._SY300_.jpg

However, you can make a larger-pore diffuser with a bamboo skewer by sticking the pointy end into the tubing, sealing it in, and cutting it down to an appropriate size.

Another option for getting the CO2 into your water is a bubble ladder. The bubbles are much, much larger than you'd get with either a bamboo skewer or a ceramic diffuser, but since there's no resistance, you should be able to go longer before having to recharge your bottle(s). You can also use this as a bubble counter, too.

No, increased pressure won't increase your bubble rate. You'd need to increase the amount of CO2 you're generating in your DIY system to do that. Remember your gas laws, the pressure will always move towards equalization in a system—the only way a pressure imbalance lasts is if there's something providing resistance, like a diffuser; you can only have pressure with resistance. Picture an inflated balloon: it's tied off at the end, so air can't escape easily. There's a big pressure difference between the air that's pushing on the knot from the inside of the balloon vs. the outside. If you untied it (removing the resistance), the air inside the balloon would go rushing out, decreasing the pressure inside until it's equal with the pressure outside. Increasing the pressure inside the balloon (squeezing the balloon to make it smaller) requires that there still be a knot tied in the end of it, but once you untie it, you no longer have that increased pressure. To increase the rate air leaves the balloon once that knot is untied, you'd have to start off with more air in the same amount of space.

The only problem I can think of is the diffuser. I've heard many concerns about using a ceramic diffuser on a DIY setup.
For my setup I'm using the Hagen Ladder and it works quite well.

It takes about a day to work fine, because at first the bubble will "stick" to the ladder.

I don't know if you can find this exact one in Australia, but I have one of these in each of my 2.5g and they are fantastic. Barely any surface agitation

I use this internal filter on my 4 gallon shrimp tank. It's dead quiet and won't suck up tiny shrimp.

I have a small internal filter, can I replace the sponge with a bag of purigen to remove the tannins from my driftwood?

This is the filter I always recommend:

https://www.amazon.com/KollerCraft-Aquarium-Mini-Internal-Filter/dp/B00176GKM8

I use this on my 3-gallon shrimp tank and a 5-gallon betta tank I just finished for my future FIL.

I use this one. It comes with two different heads and an adjustable flow. I wouldn't recommend it to anything under 4-5 gallons because otherwise the current is too strong (in my two gallon jar my fish was blown around and never seemed to get a rest). Cartridges are hard to find but most people recommend to never replace it because of the good bacteria in it but I do replace the carbon in it 1 time a month.

I'll preface by saying that I know nothingn about salamanders. A hang on filter will pour from the top and probably look cluttered, so I'd try other options first. You could make some sort of waterfall, but it might get really messy if the salamander is always wet and muddy. Not sure, but if you find a way to make it look nice, it might work the best.

A cheaper option would be a sponge filter, which unless you DIY, you'd need to buy the airpump, tubing, and sponge filter online, this would unfortunately have a lot less flow. Here is another alternative and probably what I would do, internal filter. You might prefer a smaller variety, but I chose this one just for reference. What about floating plants btw? Salvinia especially might be a nice plant, but I'm not sure if it will be safe/left alone. If you'd instead like plants under the surface, there's marimo balls, java fern, and anubias. These are all low-light and impossible to "deroot" plants.

I just bought this filter for our ten gallon and it's perfect size and our little guy loves hanging out under it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00176GKM8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_rnlzub08GN49W

I got this one

http://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Internal-Filter-45gph-adjustable/dp/B00176GKM8

My betta likes to swim in the current sometimes, but he sleeps on the other side. Although I could be wrong and he secretly doesn't like it. But I catch him every so often on the filter side.

Well, it's smaller but it looks like the exact same design: http://www.amazon.com/KollerCraft-Aquarium-Mini-Internal-Filter/dp/B00176GKM8

I have one of these in my 2.5 shrimp tank. It's been going for about two years. It comes with a little carbon box cartridge, if you carefully pry it open and dump the carbon you could put a few bits of small ceramic media in it. I stuff a few more ceramic bits between that and the sponge in mine. Decent mini filter and cheap.

I have this filter for my betta in the same tank as yours. I use the small spray opening and point it at the wall of the tank to divert the flow. You can also change the strength of the flow or use the spray bar. It did not bother my betta at all and collected quite a bit of bacteria.

You need a gravel vacuum to suck the poop, old food, and other waste out of the gravel.

When people say you should change your water, they are essentially saying "vacuum the gravel until 25% of the water is gone, then add new water". Since you don't have a filter you should change the water more frequently, preferably every 3 or so days. While I cannot make a diagnosis because I never saw the fish, the smell makes it sound like the water was toxic, but if it's to the point of killing a fish the fish will generally have ammonia burns, ulcers, frayed fins, swollen gills, etc

Time how much he eats in roughly 2 minutes, and then feed him that instead of a strict 4 pellet rule. Scoop out any left over food so it doesn't fall to the bottom and rot.

Many people advise against having a filter in a tank with a betta, because the current can stress them out, but a small filter with floating plants to absorb the current as it comes out of the filter will do wonders for your tanks health. this would be perfect for your tank.

Planted tanks will also help out a ton, because the plants will thrive in fish-poop-filled tanks and you'll only have to suck poop off the top of the gravel. If you don't want a planted tank but do want a filter, floating plastic plants will work but remember to leave room for the betta to feed, because they always feed at the surface.

Another mistake many novice fish keepers make is not offering hiding space. They think "I want to see this fish all the time" and don't realize that if a fish cant hide when it's stressed scared, or just plain tired, it can take it's toll on your betas health. Make sure that there is sufficient room for your fish to completely conceal itself if it so chooses

Check out /r/Aquariums /r/PlantedTank and /r/bettafish

If you plan on a small tank, I recommend this filter. Really good and totally silent. I have a 2.5 gallon tank right by my bed and I can't sleep with lots of noise, so it was perfect.

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

Basic model, very little flow that mostly goes up.

Double spongy action, with an outlet that can be placed above the waterlevel (even less flow!).

Corner filter, has more room for other types of filtermedia, a bit harder to clean depending on what you stuff it with. Has a cute little outlet that prevents our idiots from getting stuck.

I really like this one, it's quiet and comes with a valve

tubing

valve

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$31

$23 + $43 shipping


$13 with 4-8 week shipping

amazon seems pretty bad. which is why im asking here

like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Rhinox-Glass-Drop-Checker-Kit/dp/B005C74ZCA/ref=asc_df_B005C74ZCA/