Best aquarium thermometers according to redditors
We found 156 Reddit comments discussing the best aquarium thermometers. We ranked the 46 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 156 Reddit comments discussing the best aquarium thermometers. We ranked the 46 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Something like this integrated would be good, surely not expensive too
The tank looks like a 2.5 gal. So here's a list of some inexpensive things you can grab to make him love his new home even more!:
If you get all of these from the links it should run you somewhere around $20.
I just wanted to say-- thank you so much for taking time to learn about betta's and not just go off of what the general population seems to think.
One additional suggestion-- make sure that any plants you offer are either silky or live plants. The plastic ones will tear up their fins. You can often find nicer silky ones in the reptile sections of pet stores or Amazon rather than the fish. Like this one for example. It also offers lots of hidey space, which betta love!
The hanging /suction cup silk plants in the reptile section could also be neat, though I've never used them in a tank personally. It might be cool to have a plant sort of trailing down in a corner.
They definitely should have a filter, but make sure it's not too strong of one. You might be better with an under gravel filter or two small filters. Also-- make sure you buy a temperature gauge. You want to check regularly to make sure the heater is still working properly-- 75-80F water always feels cool to the skin so it's hard to tell.
I highly recommend getting a cheap aquarium thermometer if you do this. The wire is thin enough to not interrupt the seal and you'll be able to track the temperature without opening the door.
Equipment List
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Chemicals and Food
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OnePlus 2 Manual Camera Settings
For those interested my light is an AI Prime LED set to the 14k spectrum.
I was in your shoes not too long ago, it's overwhelming! Here's a list of things that I bought, but I am not an expert so if others have better input go for that:
Equipment
Shop for whatever is cheaper, I have a huge heater because I had an extra one from before. I've read that it's not necessary but also have read that if you want them to breed you need to stimulate warm water. For now, I keep the heater off and leave it at room temperature of 72F. They seem very happy! Most important in my opinion, add plenty of plants and a marimo ball or 2.
Lastly, I'm unsure of the siphon, I think it's good to have a bucket and siphon just in case your water parameters are looking bad so you are prepared to do a water change. From what I read, shrimp have a very low bio load and should be able to sustain themselves. Make sure to do tests regularly.
EDIT I just read that this is your first aquarium, so here is a detailed write up:
Setting up your tank
After your tank has cycled
Please don't skip the important step of acclimating your shrimp! They are very sensitive to water changes and this ensures that they will survive.
Here are my water parameters, people have all kinds of ranges but this is what works for me:
I hope this helps... again, I was in your shoes not too long ago, it was really overwhelming. But after a lot of research I think my tank is in a good place :). Other users, if there's anything in my list that seems incorrect please let me know!
>Not yet
NO NO NO NO FUCKING NO.
NEVER. REPEAT NEVER PUT A HEAT SOURCE IN WITH A SNAKE THAT IS UNREGULATED. It can burn or kill your snake. Go and order one, or go to a reptile store immediately and get one. Its literally one of the most important things in snake husbandry. And get a digital thermometer to keep track as well.
I dont mean to sound mean but this is something that needs to be done NOW for the health of your snake.
What is the wattage of the bulb and how long do you leave it on ?
EDIT: get the following (or equivalent) immediately
thermostat
temp gun
thermometers. one for hot and cold sides
It's very kind of you to not just let him die! If you get him spiffed up you may be able to find someone who likes fish to take him in, so you don't end up feeling burdened...
but in the meanwhile, there is some basic stuff you can do. If your measurements are correct, then he's probably in a 2 1/2 or 3 gallon aquarium, which while not the best, will certainly suffice. This means the main things you'll need are a filter and a heater.
It would also be nice if you got him some stuff to hide in, so he doesn't stress. They make aquarium decorations, but a clean, well rinsed ceramic coffee mug or unpainted terra cotta planter will do the trick for cheap.
By the way, can you post the name of the water conditioner that you found in the tube? It will help me be able to figure out if it's a dechlorinator or not, which is the most important thing.
Also, does the tank have a lid? Bettas will jump out of water, especially if the water quality is bad.
Anyway, there is plenty of inexpsensive, decent equipment for a tank that size:
I personally happen to like this filter for a tank that size, and it's very easy to install/maintain.
Here's a nice little heater that's worked very well for me. You'd want to maintain his water between 75 and 80 degrees, so it's always a good idea to have a thermometer to make sure the heater is doing its job properly.
From there, maintenance is pretty easy. Feed him just 3 or so of those little food pebbles a day, and once a week give him some of the bloodworms for variety. The main thing is to not overfeed, because they have very small tummies.
Once a week, change out about 25% of his water, and rinse out your filter pads with old aquarium water if they need it. They make little syphons especially for this, because the suction they create helps you vacuum poo out of the substrate.
If OP is going to invest a few bucks in temperature control I would recommend an actual thermostat that cuts the power to the heater when the desired temperature is reached. This eliminates the possibility to 'fail on' in the heater.
There are probably cheaper options but here's one I thought about before deciding to just get a heater with some built in safety stuff:
http://www.amazon.com/Hydor-Hydroset-Electronic-External-Thermostat/dp/B0006JLPEA
This is a smaller thermometer.
Kits tend to be more expensive and lower quality compared to buying things separately.
A 5 or 10 gallon tank from petco, pet smart, pretty much any pet store is usually only around $15 max.
An air pump, some airline tubing and a sponge filter, all about $12.
A simple adjustable heater, $9 and a thermometer, $2.
Water conditioner, a small bottle is like $6.
Those are the vital basics, for about $35.
Another thing that is a bit pricier but ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY to get as soon as possible is a liquid drop water test kit which currently on Amazon is $22. Do not get the paper test strips, they are a bit cheaper but they are completely inaccurate and they'll end up costing more because you need to keep buying new ones.
A test kit will be absolutely necessary to cycle the new tank, which, if not done carefully, can kill the fish.
If your friend can't get the test kit right away, I'd check around your local pet stores, because often times they'll offer free water testing. Until then, do big water changes (at least 50%) every day to be fairly sure the water is kept clean and safe.
Necessities
api liquid test kit
sponge filter
airline tubing for sponge filter
air pump for sponge filter
thermometer
fluval spec v kit. Comes with filter, decent light that can grow some lowlight plants, idk what else but I hear it's pretty good, I would look around on other sites to find it cheaper
dechlorinator if you don't already have it
heater, I happen to live somewhere where the temperature of my tank floats right in the bettas range, but if this isn't the case for you then you'll need a heater
You'll need something for a lid, can't find anything on amazon but you have a few options: going to a petstore and looking for a 5 gallon lid, going to other websites to look, or making a DIY lid, which can be done with greenhouse panels, or even wood if you don't mind cutting.
Substrate is optional, but if you want it you can either get pool filter sand, which you can find at your local Home Depot or lowes (assuming you're in the US), you'll have to rinse it first but it's really cheap, $8 for 50lb which is more than enough.
I would buy the tank in person at a store or on some site like Craigslist where you can find used tanks for cheap
Also, don't forget to cycle your tank, if you don't know what that is I would do some research on it, it's possibly the most important thing in keeping any aquatic creature
Off the top of my head, will continue to edit to add stuff
Been gathering info for a while now. Thanks to the fellow redditors for all the help and advice, especially K_draggon, LikeMaugal, Pllatium, Baboa, Tropheusdubosi, medym, and ispringer.
You guys gave me a lot of great advice that helped me put this together, along with information from nano-reef and ReefCentral
Tank is a 20 gal high spare tank I had. 50w heater, Light set up is Nova Extreme T5, pump is Hydor 425, Thermometer is Aqueon Coralife
The 2 larger rocks in the picture, was 1 large 11lb rock, smashed into 2 base pieces, picked up from Absolutely Fish in NJ
The rest of the rock was purchased from Gulf Live Rock
Tank was set up on saturday 2/25/12, which is the cloudy pictures. Tank finally settled around tuesday. Rock came in last night. Sadly a lot of the stuff didnt make the 2 day trip, but Im sure more stuff will appear soon.
First water change is scheduled tonight, as Ive noticed salinity has dropped to about 1.0 and Im told to keep it around 1.01-.02.
HOB filter is an AC70 which is getting El Fabs 'fuge mod in the next week or so.
Only signs of life so far are a sand trigger, about 4-5 bristle worms, which after researching more are "Fire bristle worms" And i read they are the worst kind and dangerous, So i will be plucking them out at night as I see them. And a few dozen peanut worms in the rocks. There was a small snail, and crab, that I found that didnt make the trip , which would of been nice to have.
I gave about 3 cups of sand to a friend, whos going to put it in his tank for a few weeks, and then give back to me, so I can get some of his copipods and other stuff he has living in his sand, and to help cycle my tank quicker.
Okay, here's what needs to be done. It's going to be a little work but you will need to quantify the frigid water.
​
Step 1) Find a regulation, federal/state law that states the minimum standards for water temperature for tenants.
​
Step 2) Get a water thermometer. Amazon has one for $7. https://www.amazon.com/Zacro-Aquarium-Thermometer-Terrarium-Temperature/dp/B01A0TMS6Y/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=water+thermometer&qid=1550049219&s=gateway&sr=8-7
​
Step 3) Take pictures of the water thermometer with your cold-ass shower water, bathroom water, etc. Note: Don't jack up the thermometer by getting the digital reader wet. Just get the probe wet. I know what you are thinking you dirty bird.
​
Step 4) Go to IG with complaint and evidence. Concurrently go to a Town Hall Meeting with your Commander and SPEAK THE FUCK UP. Don't be like the sheep in the audience. Don't be intimidated by rank at that meeting. This is your time to say something dammit.
​
Step 5) Give IG/Command time to address the problem. If it doesn't work out. State/Federal representative hired by the people (votes).
​
The Army is having SERIOUS problems with retention right now. You can mention something like that to SGM or the retention NCO when they bring it up to you. 2LTs, brand new to the Army, are living off-post and able to complain to their landlords and get this shit taken care of quickly. Just because you are junior enlisted, doesn't mean you have to put up with shitty living conditions.
Oh dear. Is this your first big fish tank? Or first fish tank?
I would highly recommend getting a Python Water changer. It is a little pricy but it is worth the cost.
Other things you will probably need with your python for doing water changes/filling the tank.
- Some 5 gallon buckets from home depot (Great for all sorts of things, they just come in handy in the hobby, a must-have) Very cheap
- A Digital thermometer for water to help temperature match to your tank before adding the water.
- A fish saver cover for your python water changer to help you save fish when you're doing a water change.
I've always found these thermometers to be garbage. I recommend spending the extra couple of bucks for the old-fashioned mercury-style thermometer
10 gal is fine. I started my first SW tank a couple months ago and I got a 6 gal. Now, you will have to have to have live rock. Without it, it will be nearly impossible to have a stable tank. I suggest you get around 15 pounds. Get all the live rock you plan to have in you tank at once so your parameters don't get an ammonia spike if you have a fish inside. Aragonite sand should be fine. I would stay FOWLR (fish only with live rock) because corals are much harder. The cycle is also very similar. Set up your tank, add sand, fill with a few inches of water, add rocks and aquascape, fill up with water, add a deli shrimp, and you should be good to go. You will need some salt, a hydrometer, a good reliable heater, some lighting, a power head and test kit. And also a filter.
This is what I would get
http://amzn.com/B000260FUM
I would put the bio rings and carbon aside and replace with this,
http://amzn.com/B0002A5VK2
http://amzn.com/B004PBD4J4
Add the matrix when you start cycling, then add the purigen when you are getting fish. The reviews are speaking for the product. Purigen is simply a godsend
http://amzn.com/B00019JOSO
Go for a refractometer if you can afford it but this works fine for me as long as I tap it an there are no bubbles.
http://amzn.com/B001EUE808
The test kit.
http://amzn.com/B0036S4YZ0
This powerhead should do fine in a 10 gallon.
http://amzn.com/B003M7P9YU
This is one of the best most reliable heaters on the market. Many will fail and bake your tank but not the jagar.
http://amzn.com/B003EE5GUS
These make life a whole lot easier BN testing water or adding things like calcium. You get 10 so they should def last a while.
http://amzn.com/B008SJ1H7A
Get like 5 of these. They are extremely accurate and last around 3 months each. Wrap the wire around the tank and have one on at all times. They also help when doing water changes. You should also pick up an extra heater for water changes, via aqua and aqua top have good ones. These are made in china and sent out to companies like coralife to be package and sold for like 10 dollars, see
http://amzn.com/B0002DI4TO
Now, this is the salt I use for water changes,
http://amzn.com/B0002DJU0G
This should last you a year or two and is way cheaper then continually buying salt. I personally use tap water that has been heavily decholinated with this,
http://amzn.com/B00176CVK8
You should get your tap water tested for copper which can kill invertebrates. A 5 gallon bucket is really useful as is this siphon for water changes,
http://amzn.com/B002LL8BWU
This net is really fine and will catch most tiny debris
http://amzn.com/B008HPOCUE
You will probably find it cheaper in a store. I leave it in front of my powerhead for a hour or two every couple to days to catch debris and waste.
These tweezers help for when you don't want to get your hands wet.
http://amzn.com/B001CWDSYA
But they do start rusting after a lot of
use.
http://amzn.com/B0002E7ITK
This has been the best fish food in my experience but all fish should be fed a varied diet. This is a good staple and should be substituted with brine shrimp, mysis shrimp (frozen) and seaweed.
Not everything here is necessary, I'm just telling you what helped me make the jump to saltwater.
Here are some pics of my tank:
http://imgur.com/p3PP7X7
http://imgur.com/9kUaq1g
http://imgur.com/wtUfCb5
http://imgur.com/yl82GRn
One last thing, in a tank that size, draw a small line where you want you water level to be, when it goes below that due to evaporation, top off water. Test your salinity often in that tank. I use seachem marine buffer to deal with pH issues but chemicals and buffets should be avoided.
I've been told that heating pads aren't good because they don't heat the air well enough and a failure could burn your hedgie, so I stick with a lamp.
And that's it!
I use a few $2 thermometers (in different tanks) that read exactly what I put my heaters to so far: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002AQITK/
I never imagined that I would be a fish owner, but I have found myself with one, and I have a huge soft spot for all animals, so I can't stand to see them neglected so I want to provide the best home the little guy I can! Here is the list of what I've gotten so far. Let me know what you think and if I have made any mistakes!
Aquarium Rocks
He already has ~5lbs so I figure 10 lbs should cover a 5 gallon tank pretty well.
Betta Balls
Gravel Vacuum
Seachem Prime
Thermometer
Heater for 5 gallon tank
5 Gallon Tank
API Freshwater Test Kit
He already has a betta log, betta hammock, a small decorative plant, Tetra betta pellets, and some bloodworms for treats. Hopefully this covers all bases for little Zazoo! (Yes, my gf named him after the bird from the Lion King. Lol) If you have any other tips for a complete beginner, I'd love to hear them! Thank you for your suggestions!
As stated in title, Fishy is the newest member of our household.
My first instinct was to read up on bettas and in doing so, found this subreddit.
I have several doubts, such as:
As per suggestions on this sub, I think buying a bigger tank is my number 1 priority; im currently looking into a Tetra Tank (3 Gallons), this one is favored by my wife, as she finds its aesthetically pleasing (and I agree). However, most people suggest a 5 Gallon tank, so Im also looking into a GloFish Tank, we both dislike the blue led on this model and the black plastic lid it comes with.
In any case, we're also looking to buy the following:
We already have a net (for scooping), drops to dechlorinate water, aquarium salt (for cleaning) and what you see already in the tank.
Please help us give this fish an awesome life!
PS.: We are not in the US, if it even matters.
When you expand, this might be a handy tool for you: AquaAdvisor
Right now, if I were you, I would purchase:
HOB Nano filter
Siphon Water changer/gravel vacuum - Carry your aquarium over to a drain. Keep an empty two liter handy to pour freshwater back in.
You cycled your tank, right? If not, you may want to pour some of this in there to help.
Water Test Kit Keep track 2x a week. Small tanks are more difficult since water conditions can go bad quite quickly. Keeping an aquarium is not about fish, it's about chemistry.
Spiral CFL bulb to replace the incandescent you probably have. Incandescents suck and heat your aquarium way too much.
Thermometer Glass, with suction cup.
Light timer Trust me, keeping that light on all day is only going to cause algae, and won't make your plants grow quicker. 6 hours in the beginning, 8 hours max.
Heater 25 watt, keep at 80 degrees. The gradient lines will NOT be accurate.
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Low-tech tank care Study this, and pay attention to the dry fertilization part.
Hi there,
Please consider my revised additions/changes to your lists as I see some things that could be better/improved. - - - - - PLEASE FISHLESS CYCLE!!!!!- - - -- - http://injaf.org/articles-guides/beginners-guides/the-nitrogen-cycle-and-the-fishless-cycle-getting-your-aquarium-ready-for-fish/
DO NOT BUY that 5g TALL Marina brand tank (I had the smaller 3g version in the past and ended up ABSOLUTELY HATING it because of the built-in internal filter compartment that took space away from the betta + was a pain to maintenance + the flow was difficult to modify)...
I HIGHLY HIGHLY RECOMMEND THE FOLLOWING TANK KITS!!! (They're even cheaper than your other mentioned options and far better for the betta by providing it with much more HORIZONTAL SWIMMING SPACE:
https://www.petsmart.com/fish/starter-kits/top-fin-essentials-aquarium-starter-kit-5262256.html it's ON SALE NOW AT TIME OF MY COMMENT FOR JUST $24.
THE TOPFIN 10g KIT IS GREAT TOO! - FOR JUST $45.49 (Right now at time of comment) - https://www.petsmart.com/fish/starter-kits/top-fin-essentials-aquarium-starter-kit-5262353.html
About live aquatic plants:
https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/plantsetc
https://www.petmd.com/fish/care/5-live-aquarium-plants-even-beginner-can-care
https://modestfish.com/best-beginner-aquarium-plants/
https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/top-5-easy-aquarium-plants
https://www.theaquariumguide.com/articles/10-best-freshwater-aquarium-plants-for-beginners
**** ALSO anything I hadn't commented on from your original list to offer alternatives = fine by me, keep them in your to-buy list :)
I'll just give you my generalize copy/pasta I usually hand out in situations like these so if you wanna read it when you got a chance, then you have it! Also has tips and purchase links for Amazon as well for different axolotl stuffs.
HOW TO CYCLE:
Warnings:
1.If your tank isn't cycled, you are going to chemical burn them with ammonia in the water. And they will suffer. Nitrate ( the final of the chemical process) can also burn the fish/axolotl. This is why we keep this number under 40ppm. If it is higher than 40ppm, change the water 75%.
*NOTE: Most bottles of beneficial bacteria say they cycle a tank in a day. Cycling can take up to a month in some cases but usually just two weeks if you keep on it. This requires constantly monitoring, testing and replacing most of the water in the tank when you get high ammonia/nitrite levels. You need ammonia/nitrite to be 0 and nitrate to be more than 0. Definitely less <40. If all your levels are higher than this, or if nitrate remains 0, your tank isn't cycled.***
Summery;
So basically, cycling builds beneficial bacteria which makes these waste breakdown chemicals go through a cycle of breaking down into a less dangerous form which keeps fish/axolotl from getting sick/dying. ... Most new fish people don't do this. And fish store employees try & tell them just adding something like seachem stability fixes this. It doesn't. An uncycled tank is basically new tank syndrome and it kills animals.
You still are going to need to keep an eye on chemical levels after the cycle..Occasionally different things can cause the cycle to "crash", like changing the filters or a high tempeture, or the filters becoming dry..
Once your tank is cycled, and you have an axolotl, honestly it's not that much work. The cycles the worst part. I feed my adult axolotls once every other day, I change 75% of their water twice a month, and add water to top it off / spot clean occasionally two-three other times a month due to the water I lose due to evaporation.
Stuff you'll need:
Links:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001R1RXUG?aaxitk=NqgMhM9.r7.gAHICKezCoA&amp;pd_rd_i=B001R1RXUG&amp;pf_rd_p=0ef604ef-c787-43e9-9404-52a4ff25a95c&amp;hsa_cr_id=8386596470601&amp;sb-ci-n=asinImage&amp;sb-ci-v=https%3A%2F%2Fimages-na.ssl-images-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FI%2F71pMktGGyRL.jpg&amp;sb-ci-a=B001R1RXUG
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002AQITK/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549784880&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=tank+thermometer
4.
Air pump + line + stone.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073DWVX5P/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549784937&amp;sr=8-11&amp;keywords=air+pump+for+aquarium&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41%2BcSpzfDgL&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000260FUM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549785038&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=hob+filter&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41Rr1kpTVOL&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01F88BMC8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549785094&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=shower+pouf
Prime; https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00025694O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549785181&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=seachem+prime&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41Q0rRc8NML&amp;ref=plSrch
Stablity:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002APIIW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549785210&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=seachem+stability
Pellets:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0787T25J1/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549785278&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=axolotl+pellets
Repashy:
https://www.chewy.com/repashy-superfoods-meat-pie-gel/dp/166289?utm_source=google-product&amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;utm_campaign=f&amp;utm_content=Repashy%20Superfoods&amp;utm_term=&amp;gclid=Cj0KCQiAkfriBRD1ARIsAASKsQLQAXpk3WwGiCwRMr6OQmbfUXPIZutYnADrujltXxW1PPSVgYpPduEaAmAaEALw_wcB
Ice cube trays for repashy( frozen is better. It's a jello. It will really trash your tank. So frozen is better):
https://www.amazon.com/niceCube-Mini-Ice-Cube-Trays/dp/B01L7ZFBXW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549785496&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=mini+ice+cube+tray&amp;psc=1
https://www.arcatapet.com/m/item.cfm?cat=22600&amp;source=GA-PLA00522600&amp;fullsite=0
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B011DDJZ9Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549785739&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=aquarium+vacuum
Feeding tongs: They're actually tweezers for planting a planted fish tank. These can grip worms very well.. The Amazon ones that are silver suck and will make your life hell. Don't waste your money on ones on amazon unless you can find these on Amazon.
https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/fish/feeding-accessories/fluval-straight-forceps
Don't mean to budge in, but this is what I use in all my tanks. Only $2 as well. Seems to work well for the price.
https://www.amazon.com/Marina-Floating-Thermometer-Suction-Cup/dp/B0002AQITK/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497554994&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=marina+thermometer
As far as equipment goes, get an AquaClear 20 (or 30) filter, an Aqueon (or other reliable brand, I've used Hydor with good luck) ADJUSTABLE heater. A thermometer. The lights you get depends on what you plan on doing with your tank. You're also going to need a water testing kit, a dechlorinator (most people will recommend Seachem Prime).
Is this going to be your first aquarium?
I think you may be making this more complicated than it needs to be. B&W is very forgiving, and a few degrees drift one way or another won't really make a noticeable difference.
You don't need fancy sous vide wands or complicated arduino setups. Get yourself a large igloo cooler and some cheap digital thermometers. I use these.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYZZQVV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uCjIzbTXNT9FP
Fill the cooler with water, float your bottles of chemistry in there, and bring the water to the correct temperature, and you're good to go. The cooler will keep the water at the right temp for longer than you're developing, but even if it doesn't, you can just drop an occasional ice cube in to maintain it, or, if you're doing c-41, just add some hot water from time to time.
I use this setup for B&W, C-41, and E-6 without any problems whatsoever. I develop in the bathroom in my garage and it doesn't have any heat or a/c, so it's 90° in the summer and 50° in the winter, and this $25 setup works perfectly fine.
As for hygrometers, the cheapest unbranded digital ones are far more accurate than the most expensive branded analogue ones. Any brand/unbranded digital should be okay & accurate within 10%. E.g. I have unbranded similar to http://www.amazon.com/Qooltek-Thermometer-thermostat-thermometer-Refrigerator/dp/B00PQ2GJNY/ from ebay & it's within 1 degree & 1% relative humidity to weather station.
Drops in salinity are way less harmful than increases - lower levels of salt mean higher oxygen content in the water so going that direction is not a problem. Increases in salt make it harder for your fish to breathe. Get yourself one of these too, makes measuring salinity way more accurate: Salinity Refractometer, Aquarium & Seawater - Dual Scale (1.0 to 1.070 S.G.) by Agriculture Solutions https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005ES6MOQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Km.yybRYQ0EZS
Hmm odd that the water fizzed up. Did you rinse out the tank and rinse off the carbon and decorations before putting them in? The fact that you can smell chlorine is probably a good indicator you are best of to switch to a different water conditioner. (I like Seachem Prime.) Betta's like a low flow filter so just keep an eye on the filter or even switch to a sponge filter, or filter with a sponge over the intake, etc. Remeber to test your tap water too! I will link some products I have used or similar to those I have used in the past and had success with. (It may be a good idea to compare prices at your LFS store to Amazon, as I know my local Petsmart/Petco charges a fortune for a lot of aquarium items without much selection.)
API Freshwater Test Kit (Amazon wow $19.99 right now!) or at your LFS -Don't buy the test strips.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000255NCI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
SeaChem Prime ($4-$13 depending on size from Amazon or at your LFS. I swear by Prime.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002568S6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
A thermometer is a good idea to make sure your heater does not create a major issue. I do not use this exact one but figured I would add it to the list with a link ($2)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AQITK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
Here I will just attach a link for a sponge filter I use in a 10 gallon (~$12). You will need some airline hosing and an air pump (tetra air pump works) if you get it, though I think it may be a little big for a 4 gallon. Also, an aquaclear is by far my favorite HOB filter if you go that route. Hopefully, your filter will workout!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXRDZPO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A316L92SV4DH0Y&amp;psc=1
Tetra Air pump (~$7)
https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-77851-Whisper-Pump-10-Gallon/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506349229&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=tetra%2Bair%2Bpump&amp;th=1
Aquaclear 20 (110V ~$25): This may be a little big for your 4 gallon, not sure as I have the Aquaclear 50 on my 30 gallon but I will add it along just in case.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FVG/ref=twister_B00MO35VD2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Airline Tubing (a few dollars, great to have)
Household Ammonia without surfactant (to do your fishless cycle) see link http://www.fishkeeping.co.uk/articles_51/fishless-cycling-article.htm
If you decide to go with silk aquarium plants, they have few fun options online. I would also suggest really plants as they will help reduce nitrates in the future. Some good low-tech plants would be anubias, or java fern (and some others). These can be tied to a rock or driftwood as don't need to be placed in the gravel/sand/soil itself. (A small clip-on LED for an aquarium should work
if you go this route.)
https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/plantsetc
I would provide food options, but r/bettafish has done a great job!
https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/food
Here are a few they have mentioned:
Ocean Nutrition Atison's Betta Food (~12)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/huc/view.html?ie=UTF8&amp;newItems=C38WET63RPACA8%2C1
New Life Spectrum Betta Formula (~$10)
https://www.amazon.com/New-Life-Spectrum-Formula-Semi-Float/dp/B0038JTL1Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506350883&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=New+Life+Spectrum+Betta+Pellets
Hikari Betta Bio-Gold (~$13)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013EXTU7S/ref=twister_B00ZJZMXIS?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You should be able to find frozen daphnia, and frozen brine shrimp at Petco/Petsmart, and live brine shrimp at your LFS.
Will add on later! Happy cycling and keep us posted!
Looks good to me. You might wanna save up for a couple digital thermometer and humidity gauges because those ones work for such a short period of time and are really inaccurate. I had those recently and they only lasted for 5months, such a waste of money.
Here’s the ones I got off amazon that work great!
thermometer/humidity gauge
Try this
Something like this. It's magnetic, and it's pretty accurate.
Edit- it's $5 there, I believe I got mine for $2.50ish in store at a Petco.
fresh and I use this one http://www.amazon.com/SODIAL-TM-Aquarium-Vivarium-Thermometer/dp/B008SJ1H7A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1405489935&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=digital+thermometer+aquarium cuz i have prime
I also recommend getting a digital thermometer in addition to your glass one
https://smile.amazon.com/Zacro-Aquarium-Thermometer-Terrarium-Temperature/dp/B01A0TMS6Y/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=aquarium+thermometer&qid=1567811158&s=gateway&sr=8-7
I always think its a good idea to put a thermometer on either end of the tank
here's a 2.5 gal that comes with a filter and light. I keep my betta in one of these and have a heater and a thermometer and he's doing really well.
I presume you don't have a thermometer or a test kit so i recommend this thermometer and this test kit. Water should be 79°F/27°C at all times; small fluctuations are ok.
Make sure you do small water changes, about 30% and add water conditioner; api is good, but prime is better. Add the water conditioner before you add it into the tank.
Buy one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/Zacro-Aquarium-Thermometer-Terrarium-Temperature/dp/B01A0TMS6Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486853938&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=digital+thermometer+aquarium
Place the readout somewhere visible. It's always on. Battery lasts 12+ months on mine before I have to change it. I have three separate thermometers on my tank - temperature is one of the most important aspects to watch in your tank.
Hey, the main thing is you're taking steps to fix it! :)
In terms of treating your water, seachem prime is pretty much the industry standard and does far more than most water conditioners. You can get a small bottle that'll last a small tank for close to a year for about $4 on Amazon. An aquarium thermometer would be good just because water temp can vary greatly depending on where the tank sits (i.e. if there's a draft or air vent nearby, or a window getting sun, etc.) You can also get these pretty darn cheap on amazon.
People will yell at you for keeping it in a bowl and some people will even recommend they have to have 10g of water to be healthy.
A bowl is not healthy for the fish, but I've kept bettas in 2.5g tanks with no problems. The most important part is getting a filter and a heater, and not over feeding.
You want more lateral space than height, so a cubic or cylindrical tank isn't optimal. A simple 2.5g from Petco is what I use and is fine; it has the foot print of a shoe box. Bettas aren't really vertical swimmers, then are lateral swimmers; they also benefit from more surface area, which a rectangular tank gives.
I run this filter on my 2.5g and haven't had problems with it for a year. It will do better if you clean it every month.
Heaters are tricky; my best advice is to get a digital thermometer like this one and watch the temperature. My 2.5g hasn't dropped below 79 in a couple months, and I'm not running a heater. In the winter I use a heater like this one to keep the temperature steady. When you do start using a heater, you want to watch your temperature closely to make sure you aren't over heating the tank!
I use a desklamp with a Spiral CFL light bulb as lighting; but I also keep live plants. Your lighting completely depends on what you have in the tank. Keeping some plants isn't hard, but it is a balancing act that you have to get used to. You also have to do a little research about the type of plant and it's needs. If you want plants, give me a PM and I'll give you some easy plant recommendations. If you don't want plants, get a 10watt spiral CFL "Daylight" (6300K) lightbulb and put it in a desk lamp that is a couple inches above the water; or just put the tank in a window that gets some light through the day.
Food is simple; a small pinch of flake food or a little bit of freeze dried blood worms every few days is fine. Obviously live food is better, but it is also more work and more expensive.
___
TL:DR
Here is my 2.5g now after I trimmed it and before I topped it off. It has ~20 Black Bar Endlers in it now instead of a Betta. If you want a tank with live plants like that it takes a bit of planning, but isn't too bad.
I'm giving you this list because cost increases with size. A great 2.5g will cost you ~$60-100 upfront, and not much in the long run. A good 10G will cost you ~$100-200 because you will need a stronger filter, larger heater, larger tank, stronger lights. A bowl is the cheap option, and your fish will lose its color, likely lose some fins due to fin rot, and I would be surprised if it lives a year. A tank with a filter and heater will solve all those issues.
You can get one of these to help give you better insight to his conditions in there.
Your water heater should have a built-in thermostat. Set it to the temp you want and the heater will turn itself on and off to maintain that temp.
If you meant thermometer, I just use this style that sticks to the glass: https://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Crystal-Horizontal-Aquarium-Thermometer/dp/B000633PU8/ref=zg_bs_2975477011_13?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=3VCAYQ0V3WFSMTZVBB7P
I've tested it with my thermocouple temp gauge and they're accurate enough.
Buy this
I always keep 2 different thermometers in each of my tanks... Helps me make sure the temperature is right, cause thermometers malfunction, just like heaters do and I don't like to take any chances. 1 digital like these:
Aquaneat Aquarium Digital Thermometer 3 PCS Fish Tank Water Terrarium Reptile Free Extra Batteries https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B077FNKM6F/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_VUOWCb37BWCGD
And 1 regular one like these:
Marina Floating Thermometer with Suction Cup https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0002AQITK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8YOWCbH981P2D
Just peel it off. If it leaves an adhesive residue behind, scrape it off with a single edge razor blade. Give the blade a rinse in warm water first, they come coated in a very thin machine oil.
May I also recommend getting a glass spirit thermometer to replace the mood ring strip? Much more accurate, and lasts essentially forever.
I would stick to bloodworms, mealworms, earthworms that sort of thing. Always do store bought food, you don't want to feed him anything affected by pesticides.
You should get a thermometer something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Aquarium-Terrarium-Thermometer-Black/dp/B0017N8W90/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1427248948&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=reptile+thermometer
He'll need a temperature between 50 and 75 degrees fahrenheit. A fan overhead should be good if it gets too hot, or if too cold, a tank heating pad or small heat lap should be good.
Here's a general care sheet that looks pretty good for any more future reference you might need. Enjoy your new buddy!
http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Care-Sheets/Frogs-Amphibians/Tiger-Salamander-Care-Sheet/
Under 100 bucks will be a little tricky, I think I can get close but having to buy a lighting fixture/hood will end up pushing it over.
Second Option 29 gallon - has the same dimensions and usually just a little more expensive--however, you might be able to find an all-in-one kit with a hood, heater, and HOB filter for about 100 bucks...if so, that's the way to go for sure.
2nd Option - Nothing cheaper right now.
2nd option: Penguin 200 $25.49 with free shipping @ Amazon The penguin has more media options and more media volume even not counting the biowheel. But it is a much noisier filter. My true preference would be an Aquaclear 50, but they're just not on sale right now and we're on a budget.
2nd Option - eheim jager 75W heater $24.27 @ Amazon eheim's last and are very reliable. I have a pair that are over 6 years old and still work great. Spending the extra money here would be worth it if you ever want to perhaps use the tank for something else down the road.
2nd Option - nothing cheaper that's anywhere near as close in the reliability/accuracy department.
So, that puts my 1st option total @ $110.99 with shipping but without any applicable sales tax for a new set up. Now you can really find something on craigslist.org for cheaper often times, so it might be worth it to look around there--but a lot of that stuff i found is on sale currently so if you wait too long it would be gone.
Now for the fish.
2nd option - Guppy tank with 2-3 males and 12-14 females. They will match the convicts for numbers and like the convicts they are very low in Thiaminase (which is super important for predator fish). They are relatively hardy but I find them to be super boring. They will also eat the heck out of their own babies. But on the plus side they're a bit dummer and slower swimmers than the convicts and with several harems you'll have a nicer sizing pattern on the fry that do survive.
Which ever way you go make sure to put a sponge or some panty hose over your filter intake to keep from fry getting sucked up. Also, always gut load with a good quality food right before feeding. Something like New Life Spectrum Cichlid Formula for the convicts. This will make sure the Largemouth and Oscar are getting the optimum nutrition from the live food.
Now that it's all said, you can actually breed your own earthworms for about 10 bucks in materials plus compost [Here's how to do that](
http://www.herper.com/earthworms/earthworms-culture.html) and your fish will appreciate the live food variety.
Hope this helped!
I highly recommend a refractometer instead of the cheaper salinity checkers that you fill with water and look at where the arm floats to. Before I switched to a refractometer, my salinity was way off because of microbubbles on the arm that made it read higher than it really was.
I have the KC2000 Twin model, and I found that around the 3-5 setting is around 38° with the compressor running and 42° standing(Air Temp). I would recommend one of these to help get the temperature just about right. You will need to record a couple of measurements to get the Air Temp and then with a glass of water and a thermometer to get the liquid temp. Ideally you want the liquid temp at around 40° like u/dwkeith mentioned, but keeping it too close to freezing can mess with the carbonation. Also don't forget to clean out the lines every 2 weeks to ensure that there is no buildup of mold or yeasts. I use this cleaning kit to keep the lines, fittings and spouts clean and moving fluidly.
It's currently at 76.2 F and has typically been in the 75-77 range. I've seen it as low as 74 I believe. (Mind you I'm using this cheap thermometer though so I wouldn't 100% trust its readings: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008SJ1H7A/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1).
I use this heater, had it for 3 weeks so far plugged in 24/7 and it's doing just fine: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0090I7RC2/ref=oh_details_o00_s01_i01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have 4 females and 2 males. After being in my tank for about 4 days 1 of them was berried. The other 3 females are saddled and apparently ready any minute now for a male to fertilize 'em.
I use this probe thermometer and it seems to work well. The main body stays outside and the probs go in on wires.
Probe Thermometer
This is the one I use. Accurate and discrete:
https://www.amazon.com/Zacro-Aquarium-Thermometer-Terrarium-Temperature/dp/B01A0TMS6Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465915582&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;keywords=digital+aquarium+thermometer&amp;psc=1
I'm sure you could place inside the tubing if you wanted, the external bit that measures the temperature is certainly small enough to fit inside.
Saved. Thank you for all that information. I'm in the same boat as the OP. I'm wanting to automate things more than do robotics, though. For example, have a thermometer record a reading every 30 minutes in an excel spreadsheet and send me an alert if the temperature raises or lowers past a threshold.
For things of that nature I'm sure I'll have to learn a bit about electronics and soldering. Have any recommendations for projects heading in that direction?
I just set up a 5 Gal DWC and installed a digital aquarium thermometer, I recommend. From what I know you should be keeping your res temp between 68 and 72. In my set up, my tent will run at about 77, with this air temp my res will raise to 75, so to keep it lower I put in a frozen bottle of water and generally switch it out twice a day.
Just learning myself so I hope that helps and happy growing.
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Link for thermometer , https://www.amazon.ca/Zacro-Aquarium-Thermometer-Terrarium-Temperature/dp/B01C6PE4G2
NOT MY CARD.
This aquarium thermometer relates to fraud because once you find the culprit you will capture him. You will drug him and bag him and put him in your trunk and transport him to somewhere isolated. Then you will tie him up and force him to watch Jersey Shore and My Little Pony and other terrible things that cannot be named will happen to him. Back to the thermometer, you will need to tape this under his tongue to make sure he is healthy enough to torture. Can't having him die on you. HE DESERVES PAIN !
Do either of you have a digital thermometer shut off, like this one? How long have you been running your inline?
Here's a link to the finnex one:
https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-Max-300-Digital-Aquarium-Controller/dp/B007480AP6/
Also here is a link to my current second choice of hydor:
https://www.amazon.com/Hydor-Hydroset-Thermostat-Digital-Display/dp/B0006JLPEK/
Like I said on the post looking for people who might have experience with these and could recommend one over the other, or another one entirely.
I use this this
It's a little more expensive but gives you super peace of mind. You plug your heater into it, stick the temperature probe into the tank and set the heater to 1degree higher than what you set the thermostat to.
Tank
42 LED Light
Jardli Glass Pot
25 Watt Submersible Adjustable Heater
Digital Thermometer
$120.00 Cash & Carry Only Please (95621)
*Everything is brand new. Smoke free home with two cats.
If that heater ever sticks it will cook your tank in an hours. The general rule is 5 watts per gallon. Unless the tank is kept in a room normally at minus 5, that is really overkill. Also its best to use two undersize heaters. So if one breaks, nothing serious happens.
Or you could get a thermostat, I use this one on my heater.
http://www.amazon.ca/Hydor-Hydroset-Electronic-External-Thermostat/dp/B0006JLPEA
Check out the Marineland Portrait (5 gallon) on Amazon - full kit, only needs a heater. - $57.46 - https://www.amazon.com/Marineland-ML90609-Portrait-Aquarium-5-Gallon/dp/B00O8SZTKQ/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1X2LC9K1PR12Z&keywords=marineland+portrait&qid=1550531669&s=gateway&sprefix=marineland+po%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-1
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Add:
Indian Almond Leaves - $7.95 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HG1TMIW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08__o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Marino Moss Balls - find the cheapest with the best reviews - $7.95 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MT8YO3E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
VitaChem - $9.12 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BS96V78/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Betta Hammock - $7.56 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079ZM9H97/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
My betta's favorite hammock - $5.99 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BTMKNY2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Seachem Ammonia Alert - $6.99 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000255R5G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Pipettes - $6.19 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073WLCQWD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thermometer - $6.99 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A0TMS6Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Tweezers/Scissors for plants - $11.39 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y9ZGYMK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Algae Scraper - $7.50 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01726KDKG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
API Freshwater Testing Kit - $17.59 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000255NCI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09__o00_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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These are $2.24 as Amazon add-ons. They work fine; I have them in all my tanks plus extras to test water temps for water changes.
I have two no name ones that are used for egg incubators. No complaints.
Digital Reptile Tank Max Min Thermometer and Hygrometer With Remote Probes - Ideal for Reptile Tanks, Terrariums, Vivariums, Brooders, and Incubators https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LY0CABC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hsnxCb324AWBQ
My SO and I each have one of these http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Digital-Fish-Aquarium-Thermometer/dp/B00GR0LKN8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457717170&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=aquarium+digital+thermometer.
They work pretty well. Within a degree accuracy.
Here is the desktop version of your link
There's a billion different kinds that pop up on amazon, but here's one of the cheaper ones :)
This is a copy/paste from another thread I did on this tank:
Hey!
So I was in your boat 3 months ago and with the help of some local saltwater guys I got my tank up and running. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nT9FtqEUfgE[1] (looks a lot different now since i did some rescaping... I'll put a new video up soon)
Anywhosel... Don't go cheap... With anything... If you have to buy one piece at a time until you've got all your pieces do that. What I have:
Tank: http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Spec-Aquarium-5-Gallon-Black/dp/B0089E5VLC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1392354430&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=fluval+spec+5[2]
Lights: http://www.amazon.com/Current-USA-Marine-Aquarium-24-Inch/dp/B00GFTK7CQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1392354461&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=orbit+usa+lights[3]
Pump: http://www.amazon.com/Marineland-Mini-Jet-Powerhead-VERSION-Misc/dp/B009LN1HWW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1392354739&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=mini+jet+606[4]
Powerhead: http://www.amazon.com/EcoTech-Marine-VorTech-Propeller-Aquarium/dp/B003HLO636/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1392354535&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=vortech+mp10[5]
Gravity Tester: http://www.amazon.com/Salinity-Refractometer-Aquarium-Seawater-Agriculture/dp/B005ES6MOQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1392354641&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=Refractometer[6]
Glass Cleaner: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0061PIRGW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=20GUT5T0T21NZ&amp;coliid=I1FAC5MICMTB5T[7]
I had freshwater fish before the saltwater and it's wayyy more maintenance but way more fun. You will want to abandon the freshwater the moment you get the saltwater up and running.
That aquarium is a perfect size for a single betta and plants.
I nearly always recommend EHEIM Jager heaters. They have adjustable thermostats and an auto-shutoff if the water level gets too low. They're also super reliable. The 50 watt is nearly always cheaper than the 25 watt and it works just fine in my own 5 gallon.
I like live plants because they do help with water quality. Care really depends on what type of plants you go with. Anubias, Amazon Swords and Java Ferns are super easy to care for and don't need any special substrate. Some others like Ludwigia and some crypts are much harder and prefer dirted tanks. Certain species require CO2 supplements and fertilizers other than fish poop. All live plants will need trimmed occasionally. Silk just needs wiped down when it starts to look dirty.
Water changes are even more important in smaller tanks. Remember, the solution to pollution is dilution. 25% weekly is good so fish waste doesn't build up.
I've used a number of thermometers, but don't really have a preference. The only thing I'd suggest is that you avoid the stick on kind. They work fine at first, but accuracy won't last long.
For 10 more dollars you can monitor tank ph too.
2-in-1 Combo pH & Temperature Meter Water Quality Tester Replaceable BNC pH Electrode for Aquariums Hydroponics Tanks Aquaculture Laboratory https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MYVZH4N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xBpNDb77FVQWG
Or at least get a thermometer designed ed for water instead of roast beef.
Zacro LCD Digital Aquarium Thermometer Fish Tank Water Terrarium Temperature https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A0TMS6Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jDpNDbMB64MC1
With that said make sure to get a digital thermometer with any heater to ensure it’s keeping the proper temps. :)
This is the one I use:
Zacro LCD Digital Aquarium Thermometer Fish Tank Water Terrarium Temperature https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A0TMS6Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mG8NDb8F34KAY
I agree with NeriTina. If you ever look into another one, I recommend magnet ones. They'll actually stay lol:
https://www.amazon.com/JW-Pet-Smarttemp-Thermometer-Accessory/dp/B002ZMFM4A/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=magnet+thermometer+aquarium&qid=1570415499&sr=8-4
These are the ones I currently use and love 'em.
Hey, first off, KUDOS to you for doing the research FIRST. It makes it SOOO much easier doing it this way!! (That was not meant to sound condescending btw, but totally a good thing because too many people don't and then sadly have to come here for help (the help is ok of course but we've all been there too when you need immediate help! And it just reduces the likelihood when you do the research in the beginning.
Good list, I have a couple tens and a tight budget so hopefully I can help.
Tank: Check. Lid: Check. I like the Aqueon tanks because the VersaTop lids fit them! I learned the hard way the Petsmart tanks are like 1/8 of an inch longer and those lids fall thru or are too big, can't remember which is which lol.
Filter/media: I have heard not great things about biowheels but don't remember what or where. Maybe you could do a search here on reddit in case I saw something here. But, regardless of that, I would still suggest an Aqueon 20. Higher gph at 125 instead of 100 and a larger box, so you can fit more media inside it. Even if you got the cartridges in the beginning, you'll eventually give them up for better media and it will give you more room for a mesh bag with ceramic rings or something else. I have 4 Aqueons (two 10s, a 20, and a 30) all of them very quiet. Don't bother getting the cartridges. Go for better media. It's a little more $ but it's worth it. And the customer service is fabulous. My first one's motor seemed to be slow after 3 months but the store's return was 2 months. I called them and they sent me a new motor for free. And you won't have to replace the media really (not never but maybe after several years) vs the cartridges will eventually get so mucky they are disgusting after a month and water won't flow thru them anymore. You could just get this kind. This will save you $ in the long run so you don't have to keep buying cartridges. (just take out the blue plastic)
Heater: I know Eheim is supposed to be good. The reviews didn't seem that great on Amazon for that partic heater though (?) Heaters seem to be on sale at Petsmart the adjustable aqueon is $17 right now. I like the black ones because they don't seem to get that white calcium deposit (or whatever that is), the Pro, but the I have the glass ones too and they are fine even if they get that on them. I have several knock on wood that have been running for 4 years and for the price...
Light: I like the profile on those Aquaneats better than the other ones , it's thinner. I have a little 9 inch one on a 2.5 gallon and it's perfect for it. Very bright!
Substrate: Unless you are planning on having fish or shrimp that require soft water/low pH, you could save money by picking up some inert substrate like sand instead of the ADA. Keep in mind I think that leaches ammonia in the beginning, so make sure to let it like for several weeks before fish till it dissipates. This is where you could save some $ I think. All my tanks are planted and just have Petco sand or gravel from Chewy's.
Thermometer. That strip will not really work in the smaller tanks. It's weird. It works in the larger volume tanks. On my 29, it shows a fairly accurate temp, but even in my 20 long, it doesn't always register a temp. I wouldn't bother, I think I placed one on my 10 and it may not even register it if I remember. Pick up one of the Digital ones like this and just leave it on all the time and the batter lasts forever. I think I've had most of mine for 3 years, 4 years, something like that and only replaced batteries in some of them sometime this past year. Like this, just find whatever one is cheapest.
To save $, you can get your plants on r/AquaSwap. Go for medium and low light plants, not high light plants.
And get the API Master Test Kit, you'll have to have that to have a tank.
EDIT: Heaters and lights are necessary. Fish need fairly consistent temps and unless your house is always in their range... And for the light they all need a day and a night period and not sunlight which will create algae issues potentially and the plants will require a light.
You had me until you added your fish choices. I would not do either of those personally. Unless you do all male guppies. But, you have so many others that you could choose from.
I just wanted to say, it sucks that this responsibility was thrust upon you but you seem like a great person who is really trying to do the best for his betta!
I know you said you're low on money, but sometimes Petsmart or Petco will have a dollar per gallon sale so you can get a 5 gallon for $5 or 10 gallon for $10 (I actually only have a 3 gallon because I am a poor college student, but plan on upgrading as soon as I graduate).
I have a more expensive heater to keep the tank at a stable temperature but before that I used this one and a cheap thermometer.
Your betta will be ok! It seems that you are trying your best for him and bettas are more resilient than we think :)
I use these: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/KAT0/24100/N0650.oap?ck=Search_oil+pan+heater_-1_-1&amp;keyword=oil+pan+heater
Regulated with one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Hydor-HYDROSET-Electronic-Thermostat-Temp/dp/B0006JLPEA
The oil pan heater gets attached to the bottom of a metal fount with some high temp silicone. With the hydroset thermostat the water stays at a nice even 60 or so degrees even when outside temps fall to -15.
Thanks for the feedback! Yes, I already have a glass thermometer in there.
Came to say exactly this.. There's one on there right now that's right at 25$ that i'd been looking at this week:
https://www.amazon.com/Ade-Advanced-Optics-Salinity-Refractometer/dp/B005ES6MOQ/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522523470&amp;sr=8-10&amp;keywords=refractometer
He's been in the tank for about a week. He eats well (mostly Hikari pellets, but also Betta Bug Bites) and has been getting more active with the lights on/off cycle and the same few people filtering in and out. He showed interest in the new thermometer I put in tonight and has stopped hiding every time I open the lid. (Probably because it usually means food time!)
I cycled the tank for about a week before adding him in. I did get the API Kit and my levels were good--0/0/0-5 and my pH is 7.4. I tested again tonight and have maintained the same levels.
I didn't rinse the substrate , as it said to add it directly and then water. I treated my water with the appropriate amount of conditioner that came with the tank kit. (I've ordered Seachem Prime for the water change and beyond.) I planted my plants (Not sure what I have, honestly) and left it to cycle. I dropped in an Aqueon Pure bio ball as well. I added Flourish tabs in two places after a few days when they arrived. I've also since added a moss ball.
This is my gravel vacuum. I also have a general tank kit (net, rake, etc) and a plant kit. I plan to stock Seachem Stability and Seachem Stress Guard. I ended up with a bottle of Tetra Safestart Plus because I thought I would need it, but haven't.
I'm so nervous! The last time I had a betta, my only knowledge was to take him out of the cube, put in fresh water, treat it, and dump him back in. I want to be a good fish mom!
http://www.amazon.com/SODIAL-Digital-Aquarium-Vivarium-Thermometer/dp/B008SJ1H7A/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&amp;colid=284NMZWSHPWKE&amp;coliid=I2MLUUDKFJG7YT
+
http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SEM-1562A-Speed-Charge-Maintainer/dp/B0009IBJAS/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&amp;colid=284NMZWSHPWKE&amp;coliid=I3SR18WLB08KQC
=
22.13
unless I have bad math which is always possible.
I use the following
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C1BYESU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
that one I use to measure ground temps
and one like this one would be good for measuring ambient temps, but for ball pythons ground temp is more important
http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Digital-Fish-Aquarium-Thermometer/dp/B00GR0LKN8/ref=sr_1_24?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1426551847&amp;sr=8-24&amp;keywords=digital+thermometer
edit for more info: the ones you slap on the side of the tanks are just measuring the temperature of the glass, ball pythons are terrestrial snakes for the most part so the ground temps should never go above 90
Anecdotal, but I have this 25w in my 5 gallon, set as high as it can go, and it barely keeps the water at 75 now that it's almost winter and the ambient room temp is lower. So yeah, I'd go with the 50w.
The cheap $2 glass thermometers work fine, imo.
Looks nice and clean. I have a similar 5 gal. It's a Fluval Spec V. Not sure how strong your output flow is, but I had to direct mine up because it was pretty strong even at its lowest setting. The poor Betta was getting pushed around a bit too much. I'd also recommend a thermometer. The settings on heaters aren't all that accurate.
Edit: The thermometer I use:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002AQITK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467157638&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=aquarium+thermometer&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41IBRKnwMUL&amp;ref=plSrch
And the water heater I might recommend. It's a little more stealthy. I've had no issues with mine. It's kept the water at a steady 79 degrees.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KKYXT4K
Sorry for the crap links. I'm on my phone.
I bought my tank about a month ago and have been letting it run, as per the advice I received here. It is now finally ready to house a fish. I don't want to hurt or stress out my fish at all so I waited til everything was set. Plus my tank decor only just arrived due to the original package getting lost by UPS.
I may buy a betta this weekend if I see "the right one" but I am ok with waiting!
Here is a list of things I got, based on the general reddit consensus. I wished someone had included a list like this so here you go
Fluval 5 gallon (includes filter/light)
Hydor heater (hides right in the side part of the Fluval tank)
Thermometer
Sponge thingy to make the filter stream not too strong for bettas (I zip tied it on)
It was just an old Amazon listing. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0041CL3PY/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8. TopFin is petsmarts store brand though so this would be the current model http://m.petsmart.com/h5/hub?id=fish%2Fthermometers%2Ftop-fin-digital-aquarium-thermometer-zid36-5149540%2Fcat-36-catid-300077
http://m.petsmart.com/h5/hub?id=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.petsmart.com%2Ffish%2Faquariums%2Ftop-fin-5.5-gal-aquarium-starter-kit-zid36-17829%2Fcat-36-catid-300065%3Fnull
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0006JLPG8/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1421727524&amp;sr=1-4&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003JW8YY0/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?qid=1421727616&amp;sr=8-7&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41GG306TQ7L&amp;ref=plSrch
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003U84S3O/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1421727654&amp;sr=8-5&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41XQDTcfiPL&amp;ref=plSrch#immersive-view_1421727666581
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ZW9AU6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421727698&amp;sr=8-1&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51bvqaKNWgL&amp;ref=plSrch&amp;pi=AC_SX200_QL40
Isn't that the worst sort of panic? I ended up switching to these digital thermometers because I have a lot of tanks
Get an aquarium thermometer, it’s not expensive (less than $10). There are traditional glass-tube type, and digital ones with probe that goes in tank. I initially bought a traditional one at Walmart, but I broke it while cleaning the tank. So I got a digital one from Amazon. I got it over a year ago, but I’m still on the original battery.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01A0TMS6Y/
Already you've got two different hypothesises mixed up.
On the one hand you want to know if CO2 affects temperature
On the other you want to know if the Earths atmopshere can 'self regulate' CO2 levels.
&#x200B;
You can test the first one at home pretty easily All you need is somestick on thermometers and some empty 2L bottles. Once you're satisfied that CO2 does infact lead to higher temperatures you can progress to see current C02 levels.
In Hawaii the current CO2 levels are at about 415 ppm, while historically (ie over the past 800,000 years) the average is almost 50% lower at 200-300. Infact the ppm in the 1900's when oil was first discovered was near the common 'highest point' of the past 800,000 years. Now in less than 100 years since oil was discovered (and CO2 added by humans) we are now a good 40% higher than any other point in the past 800,000 years. Rising more rapidly than ever before, we have quite clearly left 'normal' territory of anything in the past millenia
you can buy four of these for $12. Put one on each window facing out and maybe that'll convince them?
Do a dub tub with the bottom tub filled with 4" or so of water to cover a fully submersible aquarium heater.
You only need a 50W aquarium heater to keep a tub warm. I used this one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AFELTT2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And these were great for monitoring the temperature, I had two, one for water temp and one for air temp in the shroom tub. Temp probes are waterproof/submersible.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C6PE4G2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1