Best arc welding equipment according to redditors

Original post is here with discussion and calculations. Excerpt from there:

As for the description, let's begin from the bottom:
As you can see here the lower part of the barrel is filled with 15-20l of nutrient solution. The solution is oxygenated by the aquarium air pump, then the solution is top-fed to the plant 24/7 the first couple of weeks (to promote faster growth).
A ball valve allows for easy filling and draining.

After that a disk out of thick plastic makes the floor which the mesh pot sits in. On that level there's also the air intake which at the moment creates positive pressure, but once I flower in there it will be fixed to the air outlet to create negative pressure. That air will then be pushed through activated carbon.

The pot is nothing special, I even made it myself out of a regular pot and a dremel. It's filled with small-sized hydroton balls.
The bottom, walls, and lid are all painted with a 50/50 mixture out of flat PU-white (sticks to plastic) and BaSO4 (Barium sulfate). This pushes reflection throughout the whole spectrum into the high 90 per cents. Thanks /u/superangryguy for finding that study.

On two levels on the wall I can fix self-made trellis rings for ScrOGing. There's a large door on one side to get to the plants easier for training etc. On the edges it's insulated to be light- and air-proof with foam tape. The tape will be fixed to the door with neodymium magnets which will also improve the insulation.

In/on the lid there's the heat sink with the two COB-LEDs mounted with screws. Thermal grease was added to improve thermal conduction (duh.. :D). The chinese LEDs are definitely not driven at 100W (like you could do with Crees or Vero 29s) but kept at about 50-70W. That also makes thermal management easier.

As for the general supply of energy: the 360W driver brings the voltage down from 230/120V down to 30V. From there two small buck converter bring it further down to 5V (microcontroller) and 12V (fans and maybe later LED strip). For the LEDs there's the 150W boost converter to bring the voltage up again to in between 30 and 36V, thus controlling the output power (visible on the amp- and volt-meter).

The chip controls the on-off-times of the LEDs (18/6 and 12/12), regulates the cooling of heatsink and air inside the barrel, and it can also output the sensor values of sink and air temperature as well as humidity. The lights can also be switched on and off manually and of course the user switches from veg to flower.

I think that's it for the concept so far. If something isn't understandable or I left something out, just ask :)


Here are the Parts:

part | price
-------|-----------
barrel with lid - 120l | $20
100W LEDs - 3500K and 5000K | $2 each
360W driver - 24V 10A | $25
150W boost converter | $3
Heat sink | $18
Volt + amp meter | $2
Thermal grease | $1
Aquarium air pump with air hose and air stone | $10
Water pump | $5
2x Power supply for microcontroller and fans | $1 each
ATmega 328P | $2
3x 12V fans | $2 each
Electronics (cables, transistors, resistors, LEDs etc) | $5
Connectors | $3
Hygrometer | $2
Mesh pots + hydroton | $5
Ball valve| $2
(coming soon) pH and EC monitor | $36

and here's the code on GitHub: https://github.com/linkcharger/barrel-control

At the moment I'm just growing some lemon balm in there, as a kind of test run before I move to the UK, but I'm very excited to see how it works out with trees.. how the plant will behave, training, vigor etc.

Already I can see the immense power of hydroponics: I dug the small lemon balm plants out of soil 4 days ago with small-ish roots and only 3 days later I could already see the beautiful, white new roots flowing out of the pot. Hydro is amazing!

(on the other hand I also had to fight with green goey stuff because a lot of light was getting into the reservoir. Now it's sealed though :) )

It's all a big fun learning process though and I'm sure my little barrel will bring me immense joy in the future.

Happy growing everyone! ;-)

I just talked with an elderly gentleman today at the day job about this and his recommendation was to use welders glass as your filter. Said you can get a whole helmet with extra piece of glass at harbor freight for like $20

For settings he said ASA 100 (ISO) no aperture below 3 and somewhere around 1/100-200 for shutter speed.

I'll be checking out the helmet when I get paid and testing it out this next weekend.

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Edit: reporting back.

So initially i bought a welder No. 12 from amazon and it came today. I have a harbor freight nearby but my results are going to stop me from going in and getting more at least for now, so here's what happened:

I present to you: the SUN

I took the welder glass and held it to the lens of my camera and took the picture hand held at the settings you see there. Initially it was much darker, but i brought up the levels a little bit in lightroom.

At 100mm i'm far from good detail on the sun, so probably going to want to go 200-400 at least and probably use a converter. Or, of course, a telescope.

mind you, this is a 12 glass, not a 2, so it's significantly darker than the original recommendation, i just won't be trying the 2 until i have more focal length personally.

If anyone else wants to try this its really cheap... this was the glass i got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00164VP26/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It gave the sun a green tint which i corrected in post. If you try it, tag me and i'll add it to this post.

IF i go out and get a longer lens i'll try this again, but 200mm is pretty much the max i'm willing to buy, i don't shoot sports haha.

So I stand corrected. The definition you see here isn't actual definition from the sun. Guess it'd just strangely shaped artifacts? I think it looks cool, but is jot a representation of the sun at all.

My other shots of just a glowing orb are more on point and you would need expensive specialty filters and a telescope to get any real definition

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016MB0JF6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_GgSKDbEK32CB0 tada

I used this piece of welding glass (< $6 on Amazon), held to my lens with rubber bands stretched around a reversed lens hood, like this. I used a Canon 24-105 f/4 at 45mm, ISO 400 at f/8 for 181 seconds. The welding glass results in a pretty hideous green tint, so it requires some work in post to correct the colors, but that's part of the fun.

So that's how these work(I assume anyway). A while back there was a gif showing one of those on reddit and I've remembered them ever since.

Do you want to pop open the machine and update to dinse connectors? Or just replace the cable ends?

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/Lenco-LC-10MP-Tapered-Miller-Welder/dp/B07KWB5BRC&ved=2ahUKEwjC5oWpyOXkAhXRrZ4KHcwLB20QFjAMegQIARAB&usg=AOvVaw3bNlXHsONn8nYOSTTHS97p&cshid=1569194338171

I work with a firm that makes prototypes for Mass production. My fabrication abilities are mostly in the realm of proof of concept and tolerancing. Because of this we need clean/mechanical smoothness on cuts. I primarily use the plasma with "torch assists" to make the job easier.

I use tools like the [ Swag Offroad] (https://www.amazon.com/Plasma-Circle-Cutter-Small-1-0/dp/B00LBFPDQO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1522549209&sr=8-4&keywords=Plasma+cutter+guide) circle cutter, [circle and square guides] (https://www.amazon.com/Plasma-Stencil-Circle-Cutter-Guide/dp/B00OCH0JMQ/ref=pd_sbs_469_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00OCH0JMQ&pd_rd_r=900F3KBQPFKE4QZ4PCA3&pd_rd_w=Uagli&pd_rd_wg=Nxq0b&psc=1&refRID=900F3KBQPFKE4QZ4PCA3), and a set if [magnetic straight edge holder] (https://www.amazon.com/Plasma-Cutter-Holder-Straight-Stencils/dp/B077YY8XD3/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1522549346&sr=1-5&keywords=Magnetic+plasma+guide&dpID=41ifDyHjNTL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch) for the majority of my work. For proof of concept we stick to combining geometric shapes for ease of building and laying out shapes. I prefer to Tig my assemblies, but you can mig them.

One designer started using a laser cutter for slot style welded sub assembly's. Look at the [certi-flat] (https://weldtables.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0qyqm4OY2gIVE7bACh3FNAdeEAAYASAAEgK99_D_BwE) welding tables and how they assemble together. If you can cut a groove you can make simple slot and groove assemblies. Also, the table is clutch for teaching about jigs (a jig always makes the job betttter) and as a general welding table.

I use a 220v Miller machine that is rated to 5/8" thick, but we never go past 3/16-1/4". It makes for quick and easy work. From an industry standpoint it's much safer - specifically no bottles and no "open flame". There are Sparks so the area needs to be prepped for significant potential for spray.

My next purchase will be a 4x4 plasma table to cut small pieces (laser cutting starts at $1200/sheet) for prototype. You can use the exact same equipment do to repeatable small scale fabrication and Mass production.

Let's put it this way, if you can teach a fabricator how to work in 2D to make something 3D, you've taught that person a valuable skill. Tthe option of a plasma CNC also opens the doors to guys who are good with computers but not so hand eye coordinated.

While Oxy/Fuel will always be around, plasma is what will prepare them the best.

Using a weld fillet gauge?

https://www.amazon.com/WeldingCity-MG-11-Welding-Fillet-Metric/dp/B00SC8G7BI/ref=pd_lpo_263_tr_t_3/159-6897930-0901853

That or printing one?

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1184315

This "5 second fix" infomercial stuff is pretty decent for mending plastic.

https://www.amazon.com/Second-Fix-Liquid-Plastic-Welding/dp/B016MB0JF6

I don't think it would hold up for anything that requires pressure/torque but it works decent for putting a lot of my kids' toys back together (like little plastic Pokemon figures).

Holy crap, I need some of that. The magnet that holds my in-cabinet garbage can shut just fell off its mounting and superglue won't hold it on. Got an Amazon link?

EDIT:

Google exists

Save the money paid on memberships for a year, and put it in a jar. At end of the year, get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/EVERLAST-PowerARC-160STH-160amp-Voltage/dp/B00H2VETB6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1499881459&sr=8-5&keywords=everlast+tig

Do they need to be perfectly spherical?

Here’s a 3” ball bearing but it weighs 4 pounds.

One 3" Inch Chrome Steel Bearing Ball G100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0074VCMFE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_t2wMDb7RV17MG

To get it closer to 1.5 pounds you’ll probably need cast aluminum.

Here’s a 3” steel ball but it weighs 13 ounces. It’s hollow though, so maybe you could drill a hole, fill it full of a material to get it closer to your goal weight, and then refill the hole?

Hollow 3" steel ball weldable DIY project component (2-pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076ZSPYRT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_G5wMDb5HD6FEE

What do you need this for and maybe that will make suggestions easier?

Plugs into a regular outlet with 90 amps. Tig stick with footpedal

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H2VETB6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1464282986&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=everlast+160&dpPl=1&dpID=51X3Ug%2BOP4L&ref=plSrch

Found you a good deal on Amazon, you're welcome

http://www.amazon.com/Fujikura-70R-Splicer-Machine-Only/dp/B00OGQBALM

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-C1390C-Omnivise-PCB-Holder/dp/B00IX2H050/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457736502&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=omivice

[I just got these bad boys made by Lincoln for $25.](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01DI8HO8G/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_DrRGDb2M2DG14 via @amazon)

Although I did just see the chrome vanadium version for $11 more. Not sure I need the CV version, but they do look prettier. All depends on what you are using them for on a daily basis I guess.

Spring action, not sure if that is a dealbreaker or not but I like mine so far. But haven't really had them long enough to say they are better or worse long-term.

I find these pliers make really good utility pliers, anything automotive especially, not just welding.

https://www.amazon.com/Hobart-500570-Stickmate-160i/dp/B072BDSKY8

can’t go wrong with the pipeliner by fibre metal. I cut off the front and put a sellstrom flip front and an auto darkening lens in. The clear lenses should be supplied at just about every employer and they are cheap anyway.

hood

flip front adapter

auto lens

clear lenses

I also have a Lincoln viking 3350 and I absolutely recommend it but I prefer my custom pipeliner.

Edit: Also, you can keep the fixed shade in your bag just in case your auto lens malfunctions.

Does your school have an auto shop? They might have a DC welder that would put out voltages as high as you want. Similar to this unit on Amazon.

I don't know how precise they would be though...

if you just want to get in hours and add welding to your garage I would totally recommend a dual voltage HF start tig welder. buy off amazon and get a 3 year protection plan with good reviews and don't sweat the haters. my Buddy has had a great experience with this one. you will need a bottle and a foot pedal.
https://www.amazon.com/EVERLAST-PowerARC-160STH-160amp-Voltage/dp/B00H2VETB6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538001782&sr=8-3&keywords=tig+welder+everlast

then there is this one, no idea on quality, id buy one for fun and see how it goes. just get a warranty. if it only lasts three years it cost you like 30 cents a day.
https://www.amazon.com/Torch-Inverter-Welder-Voltage-Welding/dp/B06XD7TCGN/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1538002117&sr=8-5&keywords=dual+voltage+tig+welder

Here's the two I was looking at; sounds like the stick welder is the way to go for beginners and is cheaper to operate.

• Amazon: Stick Welder
  
• Amazon: Wire Welder

You can try a harbor freight / hardware store for welding goggles. From a quick Google search you need a shade 12 or higher I believe.

Or hold this up to your face?
https://www.amazon.com/US-Forge-00097-Shaded-Welding/dp/B00164VP26

Good luck, kind of crazy and probably a shame for a lot of people that glasses are sold out

Most welding helmets have adjustable shades/darkness from #9 to #13. It would be a little silly to go buy a $45 welding from Harbor Freight just to view the eclipse, but you can buy the glass at most hardware stores for around $10 (usually come in a 5"x5" sheet)|

Edit: for everyone looking you can buy these sheets of lens
https://www.amazon.com/US-Forge-00097-Shaded-Welding/dp/B00164VP26

And one of these.

By "Welding glass" do you mean just a 10-stop filter or an actual welding glass? Now that I'm looking at those, seems like getting an actual welding glass would be many times cheaper than a filter of similar transparency.

What TIG rods would I want to use for autobody repair, specifically a '91 Honda CRX.

I intend to use TIG equipment with this DC Inverter

http://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Electric-K1297-225-Welder/dp/B000GBORWK/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1372724922&sr=1-2&keywords=Arc+welding+AC+DC

This one is a bit cheaper than the manufacturers. A Bit. It'll save you money on electrodes :p

I’m heard of others using this nozzle with success, it’s especially good with abrasive filament.

I wonder if it's an arc welder. Something like this perhaps

i've been using this chinese Pitbull since January and done several projects with it, as a starting welder that runs 110v it's been fantastic. Stick welders like this are basically one big giant transformer and while it may be light on features it makes things stick to other things....and that's what i bought it for.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000V663G8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For yours the big paint chips missing is probably more what would cause me to not consider this. That and the white paint probably act as a higher contrast. I'd think the crack on mine is one 6th or 8th the length of yours total. Once I got it off the car and cleaned it actually went pretty smoothly soldering it, I did practice on some spare plastic first but it didn't take long will I was moving along fairly quickly. Still think doing a longer section like on yours would have only added about an hour of time to prep and solder. However if you were going to then sand and paint, probably need a bit more time to go over it all again on the outside to fill in the outer crack prior to sanding.

The bumper will usually have printed on it somewhere what material it is, often part of the mold itself so inside will have raised marking, in my case PP signifying polypropylene which seems common for bumpers. In my case, I had a spare body part for a different car that was PP too, so I shaved off strips from it to use. You can also just buy sticks of it which are meant for even more specialized soldering tips. Search for "plastic welding rod" on amazon or elsewhere and they're available in a variety of materials. For example this listing has ABS, PP, PVC, and PE.

A switchable magnet (a non-electromagnet you can turn on and off). I have absolutely no need for one, but the science behind it blows my mind.

I'm guessing you'll want a TIG machine with High Frequency start.

Here's one for $488 on Amazon.

Click Me for their website.

[Here's a video of the machine in action.]
(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CblpZF54_uM)

I'm no expert but, I'm fairly certain that's what you're looking for. Maybe someone else can chime in.

Magnetic Welding Holder - Arrow Shape For Multiple Angles - Holds Up To 75 Lbs For Soldering, Assembly, Welding, And Pipes Installation - By Katzco https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CRJLH8K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_iZXRAbY8XG89Z

you could try 5 second fix https://www.amazon.com/Second-Fix-Liquid-Plastic-Welding/dp/B016MB0JF6

This just happened to my Win too, but because I fell of my bike and it was in my backpack. I know this doesn't answer your question, but I used a heat gun to mold it back into shape and this stuff to weld the crack: https://www.amazon.com/Ontel-Second-Fix-Liquid-Plastic-Welding/dp/B016MB0JF6

​

Its knock off Bondic, pretty sure they are the exact same stuff but this is 80% cheaper.

Likely similar to these: Magswitch MAGJIG 95 MagJig 95 Magswitch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003FWERRC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-zWCybTN5KD17

I only will be using the fisheye in daylight. I have this thing called
5 second fix that I have been considering to use.