Best art paints according to redditors
We found 566 Reddit comments discussing the best art paints. We ranked the 296 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 566 Reddit comments discussing the best art paints. We ranked the 296 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
You wanna be the best fiance ever u/vickicamfield?
Get him one of these.
His neck will thank you, his hands will thank you, his precision will thank you. Probably the best purchase I've ever made for minis. You can snag em at most hobby shops.
​
Bonus, if he wants to do detail work I recommend a cheap set of reading glasses. He won't have to strain his eyes as much and they are a nice magnifying glass....es... you get the point lol.
​
PS: I recommend bright white light for better color recognition and more akin to natural light.
Edit: Also if he is thinning with water, get this. I find it works better than water and mixes with metallics!
Edit 2: For brush care, dont forget to get some brush cleaner and conditioner. Maybe a wet palette for longer paint sessions. For brushes, winsor and newton are always a solid choice.
Edit 3: Folks are asking for essentials. Here is a short list:Vallejo thinner
Masters brush conditioner
Wet palette
Kolinsky brushes
Mini holder
Liquid cement for plastics
Vallejo paints
Citadel paints
Warhammer TV
Cheap airbrush for prime/basecoat
Shit isn't rated that well though https://www.amazon.com/Stuart-Semple-mattest-flattest-acrylic/dp/B0758GKKGZ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1527617129&sr=8-5&keywords=BLACK+2.0
Almost everybody is saying it's not drying all that black. The pictures show clearly visible edges. Doesn't look great.
Here's something very similar.
BLACK 2.0 - The world’s mattest, flattest, black art material by Stuart Semple
First off, Great work! As someone just starting you did really well!
As for things to look to do to improve that I noticed.
Warhammer TV is an excellent resource for figuring out how to do painting tecniques with a demonstration and walk through.
A lot of what I'm sharing with you I ignored for far too long. I can tell you the model I am painting now looks far better than the model I was painting a year ago.
This article is great inspiration for painters of any skill level.
Keep it up, keep improving, and if you learn something don't hesitate to share it and how it works for you.
I look forward to seeing your next model and/or squad you paint.
I used this brand paint from Amazon and you can check out my custom Scar with Flames Pop to see how the green paint looks
I'm aware some people really want the actual chase and I understand how this post doesn't interest you. But for those that simply want a cool looking Pop, I hope this helps you out! We're all a community here and I hope I can at least help one fellow collector out
My recommended buying list for a new painter is:
Tools
Sprays
○ Grey is standard, white if you're painting a majority of light colors, and black if the majority is dark.
Brushes
○ Round 0
○ Round 1
○ Round 2
All in all it should be around $60 USD for the tools and about $40 USD for the brushes. However, this list gives you every tool you will need to get started and to continue with the hobby.
This is just what I like to have on hand, this does not reflect the "perfect list". I hope it helps :)
>Hey guys noob here trying to get into the hobby. I've just been adding up some prices and it's getting ridiculous... am I doing something wrong or is this the entry fee we're talking about? Here is my math.
>
>TOTAL
>$29 - Chaos Black Spray
>$11 - Agrax Earthshade
>$6 - Lamenters Yellow
>$6 - Flash Gitz Yellow
>$6 - Yriel Yellow
>$6 - Ardcoat
>$11 - Agrellan Earth (x3)
>SUBTOTAL $97
>
>$6 - Kantor Blue
>$11 - Coelia Greenshade
>$6 - Lothern Blue
>$6 - Sotek Green
>$6 - Temple Guard Blue
>$6 - Ushabti Bone
>$6 - Screaming Skull
>$6 - Balthasar Gold
>$6 - Gehenna's Gold
>$6 - Khorne Red
>$11 - Carroburg Crimson
>$6 - Wazdakka Red
>SUBTOTAL $82
>
>Paints $179
>Start Collecting! Seraphon $140
>Essential Citadel Brush Selection $87
>Mouldline Remover $19
>TOTAL: $425
>
>^ This paint is for bases and Saurus Warriors only, haven't even calculated the cost of paints for the Cold One Knights and the Carnosaur yet because it was already getting out of control and this is supposed to be my intro into the hobby...
It hurts my pocket book to see people pay $11 for black primer and clear coat when you can buy the same quality of spray for ~$3-4 each.
And $6 for single colors is ridiculous. But then I don't use GW paints. I prefer army painter shade washes, and Vallejo model color or game color for regular colors. I use Rustoleum black, grey, and white primer and always have great experiences with it as long as you follow the use instructions (like don't spray when too hot or too cold or rainy). And I thought my Testors Dull clear coat was expensive at ~$8.
[Vallejo basic model color] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009162PWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7xLcAbSVVT1V1) 16 basic colors for $42, which is a ton better than $6 per color.
Army Painter Quickshades 11 washes for $27.50
And if you like army painter paints which they are great paints there is the starter set: Mega Paint Set by Army Painter 50 paints includingbasic colors, shade washes, and a few metallics for $90.
Don't buy into GW's propaganda, their regular paints aren't any better than other common brands like Army Painter and Vallejo, and they are a fraction of the price, usually about half the cost.
Personally I used to use exclusively GW paints and wish someone would have told me this stuff early, I would have saved a lot of money. When I started using other products I realized I didn't even like the GW method for most things. Base paints are too thick, and layer paints are the exact same as army painter or model color paints. Then you get things like acrylic medium, airbrush medium, and glaze medium which you can buy in big bottles from other companies, like Golden, which is the same gunk that GW sells for $6 per pot that you can buy from Liquitex or Golden 8 oz bottlrs for ~$10-$15.
If you're worried about getting studio colors without using GW paints then the community has you covered with the paint conversion chart.
Save yourself some money if you're worried about cost and don't overpay for GW materials when it's the same stuff across the board.
I painted the base with a variety of shades of blue and then put a very thick layer of distressed crackle paint clear rock candy on it. Once dry I did a heavy dry brush of white over it. The crack pattern seems to depend on how heavy the crackle paint is applied and it there was anything on the base before the paint was applied.
https://www.amazon.com/Holtz-Distress-Crackle-Paint-Clear/dp/B005FY5HCW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1500396638&sr=8-2&keywords=distressed+paint
For my figures flesh tones I use Games Workshop’s Citadel Kislev Flesh which works VERY well with their Cadian Fleshtone.
I've been eyeing Vallejo's Face/Skin Colors Paint Set for awhile. It's 8 colors that'll help add a bit of variety. Amazon Link
Eh, I personally recommend not buying bundles even-though they seem like a better deal. I started by just buying paints that I would need for a particular model and continuing from there. Before I knew it I had a full range of paint from all different companies.
Buying a set of paints will only save you a little cash, but I'd bet that the big sets will include paints you will never really touch so you aren't actually saving any money buying them.
If you really want to go the paint route on Amazon then I will admit that I did in fact buy these sets when I was starting painting on a set of Zombicide minis:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EKCOE2/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487690557&sr=sr-1&keywords=vallejo+paint
https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Face-Colors-Paint-8-Colors/dp/B000PHCPTM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487690721&sr=8-1&keywords=vallejo+paint+flesh
I used these to transfer the paint to the bottles
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B075WR8BWV/ref=dp_prsubs_3
I used glass beads from eBay
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-Glass-Paint-Agitators-SPECIAL-OFFER-SALE-PRICE-citadel-vallejo-mixing-ball/163406170842?hash=item260bc44ada:g:RFIAAOSw2bRdokOJ
Flow aid
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B000KNPM46?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Best bottles are from warcolors
https://www.warcolours.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=68&product_id=66
Hope this helps
So I've been trying to get more into basing and wanted some ice effect for my wolves. I've seen a lot of tutorials on getting white Ice but I came up with something I felt more realistic looking.
No texture, I just painted russ grey down then watered down ceramite white and covered the base. Then I just plopped a ton of Clear crackle paint and let it dry. The thicker you lay it on the bigger the cracks.
This is a really popular starter set. If you get in to it you'll definitely want to upgrade at some point, but tough to beat the price.
That plus a watercolor sketchbook/paper are all you really need to get going. Doesn't really matter too much what brand you get, as long as it's one that is made for watercolor. I really like this one, though it's a bit more expensive than some other brands.
If you're planning on doing more minis, don't mind spending a few bucks, and really want a quick easy way to shade for tabletop without having to mix your own washes, Army Painter's Strong Tone Quick Shade is awesome.
Put on with a brush, soak up some of the extra that drips onto the base, enjoy your awesome-looking, shaded mini. :)
I used this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1TQM2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
its recommended for 16 sq ft but my table is 9 sq ft. and it covered 1/16" to 1/8" thick
> I saw on BGG about wash painting them. How hard is that?
Pretty easy. Buy a wash, slather it all over your minis, let them dry for a day or two, done. If you're totally inexperienced with painting, your best bet for this is probably Army Painter Quick Shade. You just dip the minis in the pot and that's it. Make sure you check out examples of the results before you commit to the quick shade variant over the traditional brush on wash.
> Also, if I do that then decided later to try and actually paint them will I be able to over the wash?
Yes, definitely. Washes are designed for you to be able to paint over them. You can either paint over it directly, or I'd recommend stripping them with simple green and giving them a base coat from a rattle can spray primer. You may even want to do this before you wash them in the first place but it's not absolutely necessary.
You make me wonder... Has anyone put Black 2.0 on terrain yet?
Angelus Leather Paint 1 Oz Flat Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196TA1YA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_ttw8KUDkGCls6
Get a respirator with gas/vapour filters, the amount of paint you'll see on the filters after just a couple of uses will justify it! I got this kit: https://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/3M-6000-Half-Mask-Airbrushing-Pack-3M6000ABK.html and am happy with it!
I sprayed without it a couple of times and felt light headed afterwards, and was blowing paint out of my nostrils for a while after, I always use the mask since.
Because of the cats, an extracting painting station is a good idea if you can paint near a window or other outlet for the pipe, but you'd want to self build one with a really meaty fan (sealed bathroom extractor), as the generic kits you can buy tend to have a very low flow computer fan in them that simply doesn't do anything at all.
I have this: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Portable-Spray-Booth-Extraction-Filter/dp/B0050BQQUW
And the fan just is nowhere near strong enough. For now I run a normal household fan pointing at the painting area which is right next to an open window.... and hope for the best! At some point I will replace the fan as it really is not good enough right now.
At the very least, a cardboard box to catch overspray is a must.
As for the airbrush itself, I got this kit and its excellent https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00JAJTKWQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
the compressor and tank are absolutely great, the airbrush is cheap but very cheerful, I may get another for more precise work later but for now it's plenty! Make sure to remove the plug from the bottom of the tank after every use to let condensation drain out and avoid rust.
Useful accessories:
You spray cleaner through the airbrush into this pot as its a harmful chemical when atomised, the pot catches and collects the liquid cleanly and safely. Has a filter where the air comes out.
I hope that's all helpful :)
I use:
https://www.amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Masking-Fluid-75ml/dp/B005P1ROEY
Some artists suggest that you split the difference of the bottle once you own one so that you can save half for later and avoid drying out the whole bottle as it tends to react to air very poorly, speeding up the drying process of the contents inside when uncapped during use.
When working with acrylic paint, you can thin it with either water or acrylic medium. This will help the paint flow better and avoid the brush strokes. In addition, you can keep some of the cost down by using craft acrylics such as these.
I've used those on 3 different mural projects - each one featuring a different art style.
I dabble in watercolor now and then and I have this Windsor Newton set and I love it. I'm a fan of pans over tubes as I find I waste much less paint and I don't have to worry about my colors getting dirty. I mix pretty sloppily and when i need a pure hue i just give the pan a wipe with a damp paper towel . It comes with a nice color range but is compact.
I'd like the tools and space to begin live streaming while I paint. A new desk is paramount, but a bit out of the budget right now. To start I'm hoping for a small tripod for my phone/camera.
Supply wise I have about everything I need right now. Maybe some new brushes would be nice, but that would always be nice.
If you're looking for a watercolor set to add to your list, this is a great travel kit.
Thanks, for flesh tones I'm mainly using Vallejo's flesh tone pack.
I am very amateur, but I highly recommend Strong Tone Quickshade, that stuff is amazing and was the easiest part of the process. This is how they came out.
Well I am by no means an expert but here is what I got:
Paasche Talon TG-3f - It does the job. I am not painting eyes with it, mostly priming, and wide cloak and base colors.
I too had a compressor but needed to grab a Water Trap the compressor I have is super load and not 'made' for airbrushing 'per se'. So I need to regulate the water in the paint.
Then get a bottle of Air Brush Thinner. You can then use any paint you want through it (make it much thinner than normal skim milk painting consistency).
I did pick up some airbrush paints to practice with on cardboard and canvas ... figured the more I use it the better I will get. My intent is to use Vallejo Black/White primer through it. Save me from having to use so many cans of spray paint.
edit Also should mention a couple videos that influenced me/I am using to learn from: Tons of airbrushing stuff later in the video of this BIG resin kit, Tested beginners guide, more resin kit with an airbrush, and just for giggles how to clean it which in my humble opinion is the largest deterrent of the process.
First of all, you need to use a flesh wash for flesh. Black will only ever work in a zombie situation. Secondly, wash does not work on flatter surfaces like that cloak. When using washes you need to mop up the areas that have pooling going on with a clean brush.
To fix this mini, repaint the cloak and the flesh, use a flesh wash (in my experience you need to get this right in one wash because multiple flesh washes looks bad), and use either a feathering/glazing technique (more advanced techniques) or a drybrush technique (easy as pie technique) on the cloak (paint the dark red base, heavy drybrush medium red, lighter drybrush light red, ultra light drybrush yellow). I think you should drybrush, honestly.
If you don't have the washes you need, I cannot possibly recommend the army painter quickshade set more. Their paint kinda sucks, but their washes are a must have. https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Warpaints-Quickshade-Wash/dp/B0714QL55V/
Ok, that's alot to comment on:
- For airbrushing, you actually want to dilute the paint with a thinner rather than just water (random example not an advertisement: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vallejo-Model-Air-200-Thinners/dp/B002X6DTHK/ref=asc_df_B002X6DTHK/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309862953042&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7411493572982788503&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006595&hvtargid=pla-434590355698&psc=1&th=1&psc=1 ) as they change the properties of the paint in slightly different ways (you'll end up with more pooling and a less smooth coat with water). For brush painting, using water to dilute is fine.
The standard response on how much to thin is to get "the consistency of milk", which is always a bit of an odd way of looking at it. It'll also come down to how much pressure you're using (psi) and how far away your airbrush is, it's sort of a triangle of effects. I generally dilute with 1 part thinner to 2 part paint, bit I'm no expert.
- If you want to use green as your main colour go for it (I'm slightly biased, green is my favourite colour). Use a contrasting colour (such as the suggested grey) to pick out certain panels to give the models a bit of interest.
- Unless you have issues with close-up seeing I wouldn't say you need a magnifying glass. The croc clips are occasionally useful but be careful they don't leave dents in the model (i.e. clip to a less important bit or use a layer of padding).
Take your time when cleaning mold lines (especially when using a knife!!) - they're super annoying to find after you've already started.
- Another thing I'll mention is primer - the initial coat of paint on a model is recommended to be this as it has a slightly different chemical properties to stick to the model and provide a smooth surface for other paints.
Tim Holtz Distress Crackle Paint 4 oz Jar, Clear Rock Candy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FY5HCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sF2gAb0DNZFKX
I used a mix of Vallejo and P3 paints to paint each color on the figure -skin, clothes, weapons, venom sacs, etc. I then brushed on a dip, specifically Army Painter Strongtone to give them shading and a dirty dark tint.
All the materials might be pretty pricey if you were buying them just for painting up Myth, but it's all stuff I already had lying around from painting other minis games, so...
This was hand brushed. I felt that I would fork out for an airbrush down the line if I was serious about picking up the hobby. Originally I planned to use some Mr Hobby colours I got off Ebay. Unfortunately I realised too late that most of the colours I had purchased were gloss and I read that they don't do well for parts that are not meant to be glossy! I then settled on some Vallejo Model colors off Amazon, this and this set. In my very limited experience they seem quite easy to work with, water based, easy to thin down and apply.
What putty would you suggest using? I tried using some Milliput Epoxy putty and a bit of vaseline so the parts wouldn't stick together, but I found that I was either not mixing it in the right proportions so it wouldn't set or that it still stuck the parts together despite using vaseline.
Ranger TDC31888 Tim Holtz... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FY5HCW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Of course :D
Inks are basically pigmented water, so they flow better then layer paint, while not pooling as much as washes. They're used in glazing, as you mentionned.
Glazing is a more advanced technique which is used to get really smooth transitions between colors. There was a post a while ago that really showcased what glazing does (see here). It's a very time consuming process, where you take a range of colors and go back and forth applying this layers of it to blend and smooth your colors.
If you want to get into glazing, then you'll need to buy some retarder medium. It's a type of liquid that will slow down the drying process of your paint so you can take your time and mix it up on the model while it's wet to get those smooth blends. Someting like this should work. You add a tiny bit of it to your paint as your apply it.
https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-2-0-mattest-flattest-material/dp/B0758GKKGZ
$19 for a bottle on Amazon. It's dark, but it's no Vantablack.
Oh Aquarelle is so much faster ! Yes I use that sort of tiny cake thing haha kind of like this
Koi from Sakura is a good travel pack.
Sakura XNCW-30N Koi Field 30 Assorted Watercolors with Brush Sketch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BKABXOA/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_pjokzbQK1GYFJ
I don't know if they're the cheapest but I buy most of my paints from Miniature Market. Vallejo paints are $2.89 and shipping is usually $6 if your order is less than $99 (otherwise it's free). They have a pretty wide selection so you can pick and choose whatever you'd like. Reaper and Army Painter are a little cheaper per pot. Going this route might end up slightly (like a few dollars) more expensive than buying a bundle with Prime shipping, but you'll only get paints that you actually wanted. IF you're like me and end up buying a bunch, keep a spreadsheet to track which colors you already have. I've ended up with a few duplicates before I started tracking things better. Plus, you can pick up some inks, which if you follow someone like Sorastro (who will eventually be doing a Kingdom Death series), play a big role.
I'd also recommend you get a can of Army Painter Quickshade. The can isn't too big but it will last a long, long, time.
What kind of scope?
For a Newtonian, you can get those kinds of concrete forming tubes from places like Lowes and the Home Despot. They're just heavy cardboard, and last pretty well, but I'd definitely recommend painting it with something that will provide protection. Painting it flat black inside and/or flocking it is a good idea too. (I found a paint online, Black 2.0, which claims to be the flattest black paint available to the general public, except if your name happens to be Anish Kapoor). I bought some and it is pretty damn black. I ended up not using it to paint the inside of my scope, but I might use it on my 80mm refractor. Not cheap, but really, really black. Not Vanta Black level black, but as closes as you can buy.
I'm loving your watercolour portraits! My advice would be to avoid the white for highlights and instead using something like masking fluid for small parts without colour. This way you can also go a bit more crazy with the watercolors and use layers if necessary. I would also suggest trying out some less obvious colours - blues would suit this style v. well and look suitably lacrymose!
The best way I know how is to start by masking the trees with a masking fluid like this one and then painting the background first (you can drag your horizon line all the way over the dry masking fluid so it looks more continuous). Then you take up the masking fluid with something like a rubber pick-up block like this. And then paint in your trees at the end. I also prefer this way so that if I'm trying to do a flat or gradient in the sky or ground, I can assure that the gradient or flat wash is the same all the way across the paper easier.
Otherwise, the way you've done it works fine if you've got a steady hand and good pencil guides. You could also potentially start with the background and just leave the tree spots empty to start (requiring a good pre-sketch) but you can run into the same troubles with wonky, not quite lining up horizon lines.
I don't think your piece looks all that silly. I like the color scheme you've got going.
One thing I just thought of, if you continue to do without masking fluid for now, consider a bit of the principles of atmospheric perspective and that things farther away from the viewer generally get lighter and lower contrast. Part of what draws the eye to the horizon line so much and highlights the fact that it doesn't match up quite right is that it's one of the areas of highest contrast. Either make that blue lighter as you get closer to the horizon line, or the purple sky darker as you move towards it to draw the attention to other parts of the scene instead.
This was the type recommended to me. Haven't had the chance to use it yet, but their repainted glow Deku looked great with it.
watercolors LINK
we starting to use it in art schools and continue to use them in art academy. they really are good. no need to dig deeper in more expensive, pro watercolors.
fancy watercolors (i personally love them, but really, basically fo fun, mixed media) LINK
watercolor pad LINK
that's my choice. would highly recommend this producer, really great absorption, thick paper, different formats available. anyway, it's really good.
brushes is really very personal choice, depends on technic and such. I like this one LINK great for miniature work. You can look for some squirrel hair brushes in local store orLINK , they are good for starters and for wet painting.
EDIT. fanart sample where all those stuff used at once :P
You can purchase it at most hobby/art stores like Hobby Lobby or Michael's. Here's a link to what I use on Amazon. If you read the reviews, some of the reviewers posted pics of how they used it in some of their art pieces. https://www.amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Masking-Fluid-75ml/dp/B005P1ROEY/ref=sr_1_3?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1503581563&sr=1-3&keywords=masking+fluid
thank you!
I'm @grimbanana on instagram so hit me up :D
The set is St. Petersburg White Nights with 24 colors. They're really nice, super pigmented and look lovely when dry. I bought them from a local shop but the full set is on amazon for like 70 bucks.
I can offer a little feedback, not a lot though, sorry. I've only ever used two types of crackle:
Agrellan Earth works well. It creates a rather fine web of cracks as it dries. A little wash, a little drybrushing, and its done. I used it on the base on the right in this picture.
I have also used Tim Holtz Distress Crackle Paint in Clear Rock Candy. This stuff is less like paint and more like a thin gel. I like it though - it gives it more versatility. Layer it on thin and you get fine cracks. Gob it on thickly and you get deeper, more dramatic cracks - larger than I've manage to get with Agrellan Earth. I got clear so I could do nifty ice effects like on this miniature..
You could probably mix it with paint, or even let it dry real good and paint over. I washed and drybrushed it for the ice, so I know paint will stick pretty well if you wanted to paint it desert colors.
For the Model Color, use the Thinner Medium. You just need 1 or 2 drops of this thinner for a drop of Model Color. Too much will make your paint have a watery/runny consistency.
On the other hand, use the Airbrush Thinner for the Model Air. It works best with a Retarder Medium. Vallejo's air brush thinner is quite tricky to use though. You have to get the right paint to thinner ratio that will work best with your air brush. Try out different combinations on an old kit or a plastic sheet before painting your models.
EDIT: There's also an air brush flow improver from Vallejo.
[Neighborhood of $28] (https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-2-0-mattest-flattest-material/dp/B0758GKKGZ). Considering that's over 6oz, it's pretty reasonable compared to, say, GW paints.
Get the 40% or more off coupon code at Michaels, you can use your phone. See if you can get 40% off all, instead of just one item. Otherwise bring a friend and use it on the expensive items.
Depending on sales you can probably get everything for 50$. You might be able to get under 40$ but it'll be damn hard. The drawing pencils and kneaded erasers are cheapest at an art store where they will be sold loose for a few dollars, however with Christmas coming up also keep an eye out for sketching sets as they will use a like 5.99$ one to get all the art students back in stores and tempt them with other things
You're welcome! I appreciate that you're open to suggestions - it's easy to get attached to a plan. Since you seemed receptive I'm going to elaborate:
I ordered KD:M and then this Vallejo flesh tone set and this Vallejo basic colors set, which got me going. Like I said, i had to supplement with a lot of citadel paints from my LGS that ended up being frustrating, so I wish I had gotten some more saturated base colors in the beginning, maybe something like this, that comes with purples and oranges.
https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Face-Colors-Paint-8-Colors/dp/B000PHCPTM/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=flesh+tone+acrylic&qid=1568523918&sr=8-10
https://www.amazon.com/Liquitex-Professional-Flow-Effects-Medium/dp/B000KNPM46/ref=asc_df_B000KNPM46/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167130062341&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17550406855758447522&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033614&hvtargid=pla-83844654326&psc=1
Black 2.0 is on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Stuart-Semple-mattest-flattest-acrylic/dp/B0758GKKGZ
If you plan on doing any sort of precision work, or plan on leaving clean spaces under a wash (like for text), and this is your first foray into water color, then you'll probably want some masking fluid. You paint this over areas you don't want paint on so that when you're painting close to them, any paint that gets on these areas is repelled. You either peel or rub it off once the surrounding paint is dry. It's not a necessity, but it may make your life easier.
EDIT: Since this is your first time using watercolor, you might want to invest a weekend in tutorials on YouTube. Just search for something like, "beginner watercolor," "watercolor techniques," "watercolor basics," etc. You'll want to know about how to do things like stretching your paper, and basic painting methods. Watercolor is a really cool, fun medium. Lots of people hate it and say it's really difficult, but I've always enjoyed it because I think of it as a study in negative space, and realized that it's more subtractive than additive (my own terminology--I think). By that I mean, you need to think less about what to put on the paper, and more about what to leave off the paper.
Have fun!
Just dabbled in this myself.
​
Used Tamiya clear red to replicate Scotty paint after some research.
https://www.amazon.com/Acrylic-X27-Gloss-Clear-Red/dp/B00TT856HG
​
If you are only doing letter paint fill enamel paint may prove slightly tougher
Here is the palette that I use but it's a bit excessive for someone that is just starting out.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bnb0o11huV2/
For beginners, I would recommend Sakura Koi's watercolor set.
https://www.amazon.com/Sakura-XNCW-30N-Assorted-Watercolors-Sketch/dp/B01BKABXOA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539787027&sr=8-3&keywords=sakura+koi
It comes with a waterbrush which is great to start off with. For the book I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/Pentalic-Art-PTL-018036-Watercolor-Journal/dp/B01MDU3WJK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539787075&sr=8-1&keywords=pentalic+aqua+journals+7x10
I don't really frame my work because I'm too broke. I just leave it laying around my pad, to be honest.
To get the effect I mixed my white and blue 1:1 with THIS. Then painted it very thickly with white and dabbed blue dots into the white. Then with a ton of water I swirled as best I could, letting the pooling water do as much of the work as I could. I kind of made it up as I went...that youtube video looks like it might get overall better effects--I'm also not sure you need to use paint retarder, though it did keep it pretty thick so it didn't all just blend together. Definitely something I'd like to work with more!
Known as masking fluid.
I am a beginner so I bought this and replaced the water brush with two travel brushes.
Sakura XNCW-30N Koi Field 30 Assorted Watercolors with Brush Sketch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BKABXOA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Uq37CbTT9CHPQ
Army Painter has some some really nice washes as well.
You should definitely look at some washes/shades to really bring out the details, especially on the faces.
It's amazing how much of a difference a little wash makes. There are lots of tutorials on YouTube if you want to see how washes work.
I prefer Games Workshop washes, but Army Painter washes work well and aren't super expensive.
I've never heard of a hardener for paint. I've heard of drying retarders to lengthen the amount of time you have to work with the wet paint, and I've heard of putting a glossy clear coat of varnish over the paint before doing a matte coat to protect the mini. I've also heard of 'ard coat, the glossy finish for metallics that GW produces.
Just did a quick search for paint hardener on google. Looks like it's mostly used in enamels to give a harder, glossy finish. Minis are mostly done in Acrylics, so I doubt they work well together.
Army painter washes are some of the best in the market for sure. With the smattering of brushes.. Is it a bunch of random brushes? You could get her a set of nice brushes as well or even a paint collection set which Army painter also has and it contains some washes as well
I'm not sure I get what you're going for, but if you don't want the cloth texture, you could coat it in epoxy or Epsilon Pro (also an epoxy but made for top coating). Then you can sand it smooth and use whatever kind of paint you want.
If you want the cloth texture, wrap it really tight so there's no slack, then spray paint should be ok. I've used Krylon and Rustoleum on pants before. It's not comfortable, but it works.
If you absolutely need paint on cloth, look for Ceramcoat acrylic paint and textile medium. I put that through an airbrush for my Borderlands clothes: https://i.imgur.com/k1T6wH0.jpg
Epsilon: https://www.smooth-on.com/products/epsilon-pro/
Ceramcoat: https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Creative-Ceramcoat-Assorted-PROMOADA3/dp/B01MFGW2ON/ref=sr_1_1?crid=28JSBMUUFA61G&keywords=ceramcoat+acrylic+paint&qid=1549926023&s=gateway&sprefix=ceramcoat%2Caps%2C192&sr=8-1
Textile Medium: https://www.amazon.com/2-Pack-Creative-Ceramcoat-Acrylic-8-Ounce/dp/B07BZV689K/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=ceramcoat+acrylic+paint+textile&qid=1549926057&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull
I did not use a funnel. I did use some flow medium but only like 1-2mm to make it run smoother.
Vktech 50pcs 15ml Empty Plastic Squeezable Dropper Bottles Eye Liquid Dropper LDPE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D1GUAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Ju5Jyd4sZrHKA
Liquitex Professional Flow Aid Effects Medium, 4-oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KNPM46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Eg3tMY5uA5Hla
Hey!
If you're using water, sometimes you gotta keep mixing it up so the pigment actually stays in the mixture. I recommend Lahmian medium, or Flow Aid for thinning down paints. Also try a wet palette!
To blend colours you want to glaze the highlights. You can do this by snagging a glazing medium, or just thin the shit out of your paint and go over the levels of highlight. Normally you'd want a mix of your darkest and lightest colour when doing this.
I try to paint the entire model, but don't bother with things that will never see the light of day. I paint for tabletop quality, so that's that.
If I'm disappointed I try again! That's why test models are important.
I prefer citadel over all. I use the citadel Colour app to help with the color choice and how to apply. I do use Vallejo when I need an air brush version of a color that Citadel doesn’t have or for priming.
I understand the stance you have on the pricing with citadel, but you can make that line of paint last longer.
Head to amazon and order these items
15ml dropper bottles
1ml needless syringe
flow aid
small stainless steel ball baring
By following the steps in this video on YouTube I was able to transfer all my base and layer paints to dropper bottles. Now I can limit how much paint I’m wasting to a minimum. Because like you said, they can be expensive
Honestly keep it simple, people are suggesting quite a bit of different things on here which can be overwhelming.
Pick up a Koi watercolor set and some watercolor paper. I suggest 100% cotton paper, but get whatever you'd like. 2 links below should be everything you need.
Sakura XNCW-30N Koi Field 30 Assorted Watercolors with Brush Sketch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BKABXOA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_P6mWDbWD23SV6
Arches 140 Lb CP Watercolor Pad 12 Sheet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EQHJH10/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_P7mWDbKZR4QNA
If your already thinning it to that ratio I don't think you should go any further. Vallejo has there own brand of retardant specific to their paints.
https://www.amazon.ca/Vallejo-VJ70597-Retarder-17ml/dp/B000PH9JP0
I was also wondering when I saw that palette in a YouTube video recently. I guessed it was Cotman and did a search and I think it is, it looks like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Cotman-Colour-Compact/dp/B00004THXH
But they also have it with the Professional paints, this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Professional-Colour-Compact/dp/B000N85WVQ
About three shipments of this:
http://www.amazon.com/Environmental-Tech-EnviroTex-Pour-On-Finish/dp/B001E1TQM2/ref=pd_sim_hg_3
https://www.amazon.com/Ranger-TDC31888-Holtz-Distress-Crackle/dp/B005FY5HCW/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=crackle+paint&qid=1554127199&s=gateway&sr=8-4
What I do is pour it so its ~1/8" thick into a flat bottomed tupperware container and let it dry for 2-3 days. After that it is nice and hard and can be broken into little pieces (kinda like the crystal blue on breaking bad lol)
See if retarder agents might help with that. http://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-VJ70597-Retarder-17ml/dp/B000PH9JP0
I just started so I'm no expert however this is what I just purchased to get into it. These were recommended from an article I read somewhere. I'm happy with the quality for just starting out.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFGW2ON/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MXE6R99/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004BMZVBQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thank you! Yea its all sealed. [This] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1TQM2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) is what I used. So far it has held up wonderfully!
I'm partial to using Liquitex Airbrush Medium to thin acrylics - http://amzn.to/Ui4x1T. You can use water or alcohol or other thinners, but I actually have a much easier time with the medium. I'm pretty sure that it's because you're getting a better distribution of pigment particles. Also, with thinners it's possible to overthin to the point where the paint just doesn't want to do anything but bead on the surface. It's nearly impossible to do that with medium.
Just my 2 cents.
About two hours and only around 20 bucks! Here the the links to what I used.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KNPM46/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007IK9M4K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01COLW9IS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (10ml bottles, good enough but next time I might spring for 30ml)
maybe rethink your black. It's not Vanta black , but the fun disclosures and agreements made me believe it's something close. I'd take pictures but even my most non potato cameras can't capture it without a light box but here's an article
I love this set. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006FHNDH4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 St Petersburg White Nights Watercolour : 36 Pan Set
I think it's cool you want to pick up a hobby your father had. It will be a nice reminder every time you pick up the gun.
I use this 100% for miniatures, and it works great!!
​
Alright, here is the list I bought. It's a bit more than you want to spend, but this will ensure you can get going right away, and not be frustrated. I did a fair amount of research on different forums, sites, and youtube videos. If you want to know why I chose something, feel free to ask. I was going to bold the ones that you absolutely need, but I would say everything in the first set are a must.
​
​
​
​
For the compressor, I keep mine at about 18-20 while doing miniatures and it's perfect.
I do 1 drop Improver, 5 drops thinner, and 6 drops primer and have perfect flow.
​
Feel free to ask any questions! Good luck!
Hvstle
So this:
https://smile.amazon.com/Citadel-Shade-Paint-Games-Workshop/dp/B00KOD3FM8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1519681521&sr=8-4&keywords=paint+wash
or this?:
https://smile.amazon.com/Nontoxic-Miniature-Washes-Dropper-Bottles/dp/B0714QL55V/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1519681988&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=army+painter+wash&psc=1
For primer is there a benefit to using paint on, vs spray? I think the bases will be separate from my pieces. So I would think a spray can of like, white, grey, and black would be my best bet?
Not that you're looking for advice or anything, but an easy way to add some real nice detail and durability to minis you actually use in play is to use what's called the "dip" method. Essentially you brush on or dip your mini into either a wood stain or special dip product like this
https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Quickshade-Miniature-Painting/dp/B004UVVTXM#customerReviews
The dark pigment works its way into the nooks and crannies of the mini, then dries and makes the details really pop. Then you spray a light coat of spray matte varnish on the mini which takes off the gloss from the dip.
Not only does this give your minis some added depth but the two layers also protect the paint so it doesn't scratch or flake off, making them way more robust in actual play. Plus it's super easy so you could do all your minis in just an hour or two. Just some friendly advice.
They look awesome. But I think I know whats missing. The reds are just orange. Get some Tamiya X27 Gloss Red. It makes very vivid blood effects. I think adding that in places would really bump up the contrast.
https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Acrylic-Gloss-Clear-TAM81027/dp/B00TT856HG
Thanks! It’s this stuff: Glow in The Dark Paint - Premium Artist's Acrylic - 1 Ounce (Neutral Green) - 5+ Colors Available https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XHWG82Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_epgzDbFKSVRSS
I'm assuming something like this specifically made UV resin coloring would work, but I haven't tried it myself.
Has anyone tried mica powder to dye the resin?
https://www.amazon.com/Acrylic-X27-Gloss-Clear-Red/dp/B00TT856HG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510068044&sr=8-3&keywords=tamiya+clear+red&dpID=51%252BjaWDTQ-L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
this?
This paint and this light to go with it. Then you can have pretty light shows!
Not a bad idea
Scorpions glow under a blacklight, why not 'nids?
Have you considered using LEDs inside the balls so their path can be more easily followed? Or if weight is an issue, how about reactive acrylic paint with a bunch of black lights around the structure so they glow? Could produce some really interesting effects.
Add a few drops of this to your paint
Iwata Revolution, Vallejo Paints. I have this exact problem. And I am just now heading out to the local hobby store to pickup some redarder if they have it in stock.
I will report back how that goes.
I just ordered flat black leather paint off amazon.
Angelus Leather Paint 1 Oz Flat Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196TA1YA?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
There may be better paint out there but for such a small label I didn’t bother shopping around.
doot
Thank you! It's out of this set and it's called Watermelon!
It’s a Russian brand. It is known for its quality. The closest I could find in the US, is this:
watercolor
You're already on the right path and looking great. Base silver, mask and spray on top.
First thing stop using toothpaste, go to Micheals, Joanns, or hobby lobby and pick up some liquid latex masking fluid and silicone brushes. Having the right tools will make your job much easier.
https://www.amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Masking-Fluid-75ml/dp/B005P1ROEY
https://www.amazon.com/MEEDEN-Artist-Professional-Silicone-Brushes/dp/B078XZ1WZ9/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=silicone+paintb+brush&qid=1568208585&s=office-products&sr=1-2-spell
The amount of control you'll get will just be so much better. and that masking fluid will last you a LONG time,
Then study the way paint chips on metal and boba's helmet. You want to make sure you're not just chipping down to bare metal, but in some places chipping down to the color underneath, this will give you some extra depth.
Last is give it a grime wash. Multiple ways to do that, youtube tutorials are your friend as you can see exactly what to do. I take a brown acrylic paint, mix a little black until I get a used motor oil color, then water it down a lot, like whole milk consistency. then I paint the entire helmet with it, let it dry, then lightly sand it off with 320 grit sand paper and repeat. It causes the grime to end up collecting in the recesses, I can control where I want it dirtier by not sanding as much in certain areas, and it scuffs up the paint a bit to give it a more worn in look. Note that your helmets will look cleaner in pictures than they will in person.
Here's some of my stuff for the look I end up with.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bvp2yROlKE3/
https://www.instagram.com/p/BvxcD9AHiCP/
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bvl7KVxnObg/
Angelus Leather Paint 1 Oz Flat Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196TA1YA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_DAAFmMPKJAJ31
Black 2.0 is not "sick as hell" at all. It's just matte black paint. Don't make my mistake and buy into the manufactured social media hype. I had a use in mind for it (blackening the inside of a telescope tube) and it did worse than the factory coating when I did a test splotch. I also recommend looking at the 2.9 out of 5 star Amazon reviews with more pictures if one test isn't enough.
https://i.imgur.com/OW2yOIp.jpg
First some basics:
for miniature painting we use acrylic colours and there are a lot of different brands available some are more famous among miniatures and scale models (because they have specific colours available, like the one you linked is a palette fur US WW2 military colours) some are more often used by artists and all of them have their advantages. The same with brushes and in the end it is more about personal preference and availability (makes no sense to buy the brand people say it is good but you have to order it while something of equal quality is available in the store around the corner and for a beginner a more basic set with ~10 basic colours is better than such a specific one)
For the brushes you want something similar to this https://www.amazon.com/Detailing-Watercolor-Miniature-Ergonomic-Precision/dp/B004HHIO50/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=army+painter+brushes&qid=1550092128&s=gateway&sr=8-10
in addition to the one you linked because you need more straight/fine detail ones and some larger one depending on the techniques used (dry brushing for example)
​
The only thing that I really recommend is to use a caned spray primer as colours won't stick very well to the pure plastic surface and you already have a basecoat if you use a coloured one. But it need to be a Primer and not a spray colour. I prefer Army Painter but mostly because of the colours available
Another thin would be Washes which are kind of thinner colours that add a translucent layer to the model or are used for blacklining
https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Warpaints-Quickshade-Wash/dp/B0714QL55V/
(I also prefer Army Painter over Vallejo here, but the link is more for the example pictures)
​
For a beginner, a coloured Primer and a Wash can already give good (and fast) results on models like Stormtroopers
​
You want to use flow aid to thin paints. This will dilute the color without thinning the paint.
To tell the truth, you'll want both as flow aid will make paint more glossy. You can either add matte medium or varnish it with matte finish to counteract.
It should be noted that Semple also released his own version called “Vantablack 2.0” not quite as black but still very very black.
https://www.amazon.com/Stuart-Semple-mattest-flattest-acrylic/dp/B0758GKKGZ
https://www.amazon.com/Assorted-Blacklight-Reactive-Fluorescent-Acrylic/dp/B0083FOB54
Thinning your paint will help! I use a drying retarder to extend workability of the paint on a model.
https://www.amazon.com/Liquitex-Professional-Slow-Dri-Retarder-Effects/dp/B004M559I2/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1500388700&sr=1-1&keywords=paint+retarder
Also! Try using Shades! They'll really bring out the recesses of the models! If you're not comfortable with them, you can also try something like a dip! Very easy to do models quickly! (Thin it a bit with a mineral spirit, though.)
https://www.amazon.com/The-Army-Painter-Strong-Quick/dp/B004UVVTXM/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1500388817&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=quick+shade+army
Cheers!
Thanks for the detailed reply! I'm gonna run a few potential purchases by you if you don't mind. I'm looking at this Sakura Kai set. As a total beginner should I be looking for one with more/less colors? I also figured I'd need more than the single brush that comes with it so I was looking at these but I don't know if those are the right sizes. They seem to all be pretty narrow. And lastly was looking at this notebook. Seems to be a good size for me as I want to mostly try land/cityscapes or just objects.
To clarify, a watercolor pencil will allow you to sketch the shape which then disappears but you use a fountain pen which doesn't disappear right? Is that just so you can add bold linework before/after the watercolors? Both sound pretty cool but at the same time seem to serve different purposes.
This is all going on my wishlist by the way which is why I'm linking to amazon. My family is a bit odd in that everyone just checks amazon wishlists for gifts lmao. Practical if a little uninspired.
The Army Painter Warpaints Quickshade Wash Set - Miniature Painting Kit of 11 Dropper Bottles with Fluid Acrylic Paint Color Washes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0714QL55V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ay-JDbGNRG16A
This is what I got and I like it a lot. Plenty of washes and not too expensive.
Masking fluid is this stuff that you paint over parts of your watercolor that you don't want to get painted. You rub it off your painting when you're done. I just started using it myself.
I originally got the stuff at an industry event for the car audio industry, it was in a pen form as a tester and made to dye things like ABS plastic to make glowing subwoofer panels and the like. It was in the pen to show as a tester but normally came in gallon containers.
The name wore off years ago so I am afraid I cannot tel you a brand name.
But you can find blacklight reactive acrylic paints for pretty cheap.
https://www.amazon.com/Assorted-Blacklight-Reactive-Fluorescent-Acrylic/dp/B0083FOB54
This stuff: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TT856HG/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_W2uPAb9TB5ZX2
Its actually a translucent red acrylic paint. You can get pretty much any color you want. Put two coats of it on the backside of the "glass".
You need some of this.
https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Airbrush-Improver-200ml-Paint/dp/B00QD780G0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482515101&sr=8-1&keywords=vallejo+airbrush
Then maybe add a few drops of retarder...
https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-VJ70597-Acrylic-Paint-Retarder/dp/B000PH9JP0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482515136&sr=8-1&keywords=vallejo+retarder
These as well....
http://www.amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Cotman-Colour-Compact/dp/B00004THXH/ref=pd_sim_201_12?ie=UTF8&dpID=512TWrgNLIL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=022KSFV67AGEWZ2JQV49
http://www.amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Cotman-Water-Pocket/dp/B000ILZAXI/ref=pd_sim_201_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=51p-DBlKY-L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0RMRT7ZRKCD7BQ3W88SR
And yes.... It's for painting in my Moleskine
You're fine using brush on primers. I used some Vallejo primer after seeing your brush on post and liked it as well. On the topic of paint drying on the tip, Vallejo (and many others) have a product called acrylic retarder which specifically is made to extend drying time. People mainly use it to do wet blending. But it could help you as well. You'll want to start very small (like 20:1 or 10:1 water:retarding agent) and test it out to see how much is needed.
An example of what I'm referring to.
Vallejo Acrylic Paint, Retarder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PH9JP0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3f3GzbXDFMQM7
I dont know what colors GW would have used, but the Vallejo face/skin tone set has a few options that should work, I've tried a couple of the darker tones on my Star Wars Legion rebels to good effect. Link is a bit long below, I'm on mobile and in a hurry so it's the first link I could find.
https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Face-Colors-Paint-8-Colors/dp/B000PHCPTM/ref=asc_df_B000PHCPTM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309765208504&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10430058833642169688&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9023889&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-436757734711&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=60439471103&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=309765208504&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10430058833642169688&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9023889&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-436757734711
https://www.amazon.com/Prima-Marketing-584252-Watercolor-Confections/dp/B0197FQYWQ/ref=sr_1_26?keywords=jane+davenport+watercolor+set&qid=1571544795&sr=8-26
If you want some better looking fresh blood spatters I'll let you in on a secret:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TT856HG
That stuff is THE shit.
If you're wanting to do it go with https://www.amazon.com/Stuart-Semple-mattest-flattest-acrylic/dp/B0758GKKGZ
Looking at the photos, I'd say that you need to thin your paints a little bit more on the GW figures. Two or more coats may be required to get full coverage, but your results will look smoother.
How's the humidity where you live? We're moving into the summer months and that can affect how quickly paint dries. If it's drying too quickly, it may pick up some extra brush strokes. And if that is the case, you can either thin it farther or add some retarder medium to your stand water. I use Vallejo's. A wet palette can also help.
Vallejo makes their own retarder. But using a wet palette should be enough.
Oh, I know that basing! Tim Holtz Distress Crackle Paint! I have a jar of it, but I haven't used any of it yet. It turned out perfect! I am also guessing we watched the same youtube video :P
It's probably the same thing, but the one I bought was: Flow Aid
I was looking at the are these a good set to start with. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000PHCPTM/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
I'm using this and this. I've painted one cage so far and it looks great. Use thin coats though!
It may not be the colors you were aiming for, but I think it's still lovely! I recently got this set of colors on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TDJKS6T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
I haven't used all of the colors by any stretch yet, but they have worked in both UV and 2-part epoxy, and the fact that the listing said they could be used in either type was what was appealing to me (also the large range of colors). Otherwise previously for UV I was using a set and some individual colors from Miniature Sweet, but all of those were pretty opaque, so I liked that this new set could go translucent or opaque depending on what you wanted to make.
Just going to leave this here;
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FY5HCW
I bought this same product last week.
Ranger Tim Holtz 4 oz Rock Candy Distress Crackle Paint
It's apparently not as black.
https://www.amazon.com/Stuart-Semple-mattest-flattest-acrylic/product-reviews/B0758GKKGZ/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_show_all_btm?ie=UTF8&reviewerType=all_reviews
Hmm, it sort of varies with a lot of stuff, but Prima is pretty portable, as is White Nights. Sennelier makes good stuff as well.
hi. i'm not a fan of granite counter tops. for me it's either carrera marble or soapstone. neither of which i have. for your counter top, you could maybe fill and coat the top with this. it might heal it. it comes in different sizes, and is seriously easy to make, and thicker than any product i‘ve ever used. you would not be able to cut on this product.
https://www.amazon.com/Environmental-Tech-Envirotex-Finish-Gallon/dp/B001E1TQM2/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1467243163&sr=8-6&keywords=pour+on+high+gloss+finish
edit; just found this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S9R8E8Q?psc=1
Don't let your dreams be dreams. About $20 on Amazon.