Best audio cables according to redditors

We found 8,407 Reddit comments discussing the best audio cables. We ranked the 1,831 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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RCA cables
Digital coaxial cables
Subwoofer cables
Fiber optic cables
Stereo 1/4 inch & 1/8 inch jack cables

Top Reddit comments about Audio Cables:

u/privateDB · 123 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Five feet of speaker wire is not as much as it sounds and 8ga is serious overkill for that setup. You can get terminated speaker wire or an entire spool for not much more. You will hear no difference with 16ga wire and you get so much more.

u/khrak · 89 pointsr/gaming

There's no magic about getting a working headset, you just need to realize that there are two TRRS audio plug pinouts, and Microsoft chose the far less common one.

The controller has the less frequently used OMTP, while the adapter uses CTIA. Presumably to push people to buy an adapter or Microsoft headset.

You can get an CTIA -> OMTP adapter for a few bucks.. If a headset isn't working when directly plugged into the controller you need one of those. If you want to use a 2 x 3-pole headset (e.g. your normal headphone plug/mic plug PC headset) with an xbone you need one of these.


The straight converters are harder to find (that one sold out pretty quickly after this was posted, you can find a few others with no reviews or 1 bad one), but the PC headset adapter ones are aplenty. Just look at the questions/answers to be sure. There will always be questions about XB1 if the name isnt clear.

u/WadeMoreau · 68 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

People already linked the other two $150 stereo receivers from Best Buy but there's also this one that you should be able to price match to Amazon for $130 (or just buy it from Amazon).

If you don't want a gigantic amplifier I also recommend the Topping MX3 for $94 at Amazon.

You're also going to need some speaker wire which is probably overpriced at Best Buy and some type of cable to get sound from your computer to an AV receiver if you don't want to use bluetooth.

u/Cyno01 · 37 pointsr/oddlysatisfying

People really need to spend a little bit more money on sound in their setups. A real 5.1 surround setup can be had for <$300 and even the cheapest option will blow any soundbar out of the water.

Go with a slightly smaller TV even if it means getting a receiver and some speakers, way more immersion for your dollar than anything else. And modern stuff with CEC keeps controlling everything super simple, i dont even need my Harmony remote anymore.

In this case a $50 2.1 set of computer speakers is an improvement over the tvs built in, but not by much, and not helped any having them all on the same little shelf like that either.


$303 with enough wire to go the long way around and speaker stands, so no drilling even. Even if you dont have the biggest TV itll make everybody want to have movie night at your place.

u/polypeptide147 · 20 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I'll make a list of stuff you need. For the best "bang for your buck" in the $200ish price range.


Speaker wire. Amazon Basics makes great stuff. If you want, you can get 100 feet of it for an extra $2 I think. You can get those monoprice banana plugs if you want. They just help if you're going to be switching speakers around a lot.

Simple wire stripper. Should work just fine.

Cable to plug it in. That'll just plug the amp into a computer. And that cable is amazing quality. For real. I don't know what it is about it, but the moment I touched that cable I knew it was special. This isn't a joke either. You'll understand when you get one. Trust me.

50 watt per channel amp. This thing will be more than enough. I just like it because it is open box, so cheap. The same one new on amazon is $65. If you want to order from amazon, you can just get the smsl sa-36a. Same amp, just 20 watts per channel. Which, again, is plenty.

[Here's that cheaper smsl amp] I've got a few of them. They're great. This is what I'd go for if the other one is sold out.

Cheap but good little amp. I don't have one of these because I'm not a fan of the looks, but they get great reviews and a lot of people really like them.



Miccas. These things are nice for that price. In this price range, you really won't be getting anything better unless you go DIY.

Fluance SX6. These guys are big, but they throw a good amount of sound and some pretty deep bass for a pair of bookshelf speakers. Careful, they're pretty big.

Pioneer. These things are decent, but I think the Fluances would be better for this price. The SX6s throw more bass, which is good if you're not getting a sub. However, these are smaller.

Fluance signature series. I know, you said your budget is only $200, but you said if you need to spend more, then you will. These will sound better than all of the other speakers linked, however, that's not why they're here. I put them here for two reasons. The first is that they're front ported. Most people that are new to speakers might put them up against a wall or close to it, not understanding that the port needs some room to breathe. These have front ports so that's not a problem. The second reason, just look at them. If you really care about looks, these ones are the ones. They're beautiful. (My opinion obviously).

Oof almost forgot. Pleaae don't place the speakers directly on your desk.


That's a lot. I'll sum it up with my opinion and why.

Amp: smsl sa36a. For close range, you don't need anything with more power. This thing will do whatever you need for bookshelf speakers.

Speakers: micca mb42x. Why? Here's why: for this price range, you won't notice a huge difference in any speakers, unless you get some bad ones. So, get the cheapest ones you can. Later on, if you can afford to upgrade them, you'll probably want to do that. Then you'll have a pair of $80 speakers that you don't need rather than a pair of 130 speakers that you don't need. Another reason I would pick the miccas is because they punch above their price range. Most people say they sound more like a pair of $125 speakers rather than a pair of $80 speakers. So, for real, they're good. Also, they're the smallest of the bunch.

Or, build a pair of C Notes and get something way better than any of these.

Hope this helps!

u/[deleted] · 19 pointsr/codbo

There are ways to do it. I don't know if your using an xbox or a ps3, but either way if you are using the red/white/yellow analog connectors, just slap one of these onto the console's output and then plug in your headphones. that should work for anything using the three red/white/yellow hookups.

However, if your Xbox360 is plugged in via HDMI, you will instead need one of these which plugs in to the component port on the back, and one of these to make it work with the headphones. Note that the xbox adapter comes with an optical port which you will use should you upgrade to high-quality headphones ;)
With this setup you will get audio out to headphones. To get chat in the headphones, go to the preferences, select chat, and output to speakers.

Note that this system doesn't allow for a microphone. You can go ahead and leave the microsoft headset around your neck, or you could get the ever-popular zalman clip-on and this adapter to plug it in to your controller.
They really make this harder than it ought to be :/

Also consider audio extension cables of varying lengths because you'll notice that the adapter cables are not very long.

The easiest way to hook up your favorite headphones is to use an Astro Mixamp. It will include all the needed cables and included a swanky volume knob and a balance knob to adjust game sound and voice levels. Much more expensive, though! At the price for the mixamp, you may as well just buy the whole system which includes a headset as well.

I would link stuff for PS3 using an hdmi cable as well to make an all-inclusive guide, but I simply don't own a PS3 so I can't be certain.

u/theimponderablebeast · 19 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

KEF Q100 ($250)

Micca AD250 DAC/Amp ($100)

Micca speaker wire ($20)

Dayton SUB-1000 ($120)

3.5mm to RCA cable (for sub) ($8)

Total: $498

This would be a solid, solid setup for really fantastic value.

u/GbMaxSE · 16 pointsr/hometheater
u/unkunked · 15 pointsr/shutupandtakemymoney

Thanks. I don't have a link but I'll try to explain step by step.

  1. In the past I had various audio inputs fed to my receiver and video inputs fed to my TV. The problem was keeping things in sync when you changed inputs. I knew that the DVD player was Input 1 on the TV and Aux 2 on the receiver but no one else in the family could ever remember the combinations.

  2. With HDMI carrying both audio and video the obvious answer was to feed it all to the TV and then take one digital audio output from there to the receiver. This worked great. When you switch sources on the TV you don't need to switch anything on the receiver. Everybody was happy.

  3. But now I wanted to listen to Pandora (or iTunes, or the hockey game, ...) outside on my deck and driveway. My receiver can handle my 5.1 surround in the family room but does not have another set of speaker outputs. Even if it did how could I control the volumes separately? I found that my receiver does have an analog audio output that can be fed to a recording device BUT this output does not work when the input to the receiver is digital. This is true for most receivers on the market unless you spend $$$$ to get a high-end one with multiple zone capability.

  4. I eventually realized I would have to get the signal for the outdoor speakers AHEAD of my receiver. My TV, like most on the market today, does not have multiple sets of audio outputs. The only choice for me was to take the digital fiber optic one I was already sending to the receiver and split it. I read a lot of reviews and decided to go for a powered splitter that actually recreates the signal. Passive ones that split the light signal using a mirror/prism are cheaper but can be unreliable. I bought this one: and it works perfectly.

  5. So now I have an SPDIF out from that device into my receiver and another one to use for my outdoor audio. These amps however do not have an SPDIF input as they do not contain a digital-to-analog converter. So I had to convert from SPDIF to RCA analog. I went with this converter:

  6. But now I have a single set of RCA ouputs and two amps that need inputs. RCA is easy to split so I bought these cheap cables to do it:

  7. From there the RCA is fed into two of the amps that OP shows above. From there it goes into 100' of high grade speaker cable: and then into these Polk speakers (one set for the deck and another for the driveway):

    So the setup is: TV inputs --> TV --> digital splitter --> D to A converter --> RCA splitter cables --> these two amps --> Polk speakers. It sounds surprisingly good with strong bass and crisp highs. I can control all three volumes independently (family room receiver and each of these amps). I just used it for a big party we had Saturday night (80+ people). I had a playlist in iTunes on my computer served up by my Plex server. This was then picked up by my Roku 3 attached to the TV. It worked flawlessly.
u/Unspoken_Myth · 14 pointsr/buildapc

Couldn't really find what I was looking for specifically, so I scoured a few subs and saw numerous suggestions. Ended up purchasing the following items:

Dayton Speakers

Lepy Amp


Polk Subwoofer

Speaker Wire

Super happy with these purchases. All in all it costed just about 200 bucks. For me, it's all I will ever need. Crisp sounds and heavy bass when I want it. Would consider shelling out for a better amp, but the amp provided should be sufficient if you aren't blasting your music.

Additionally, if you do plan on doing an audio set up of this nature, use this image to guide you. Also note that the DAC in the image would be your RCA to AUX if you were to use the set up I posted. If you have any questions feel free to ask.

u/QuipA · 13 pointsr/headphones

You can connect the Magni with a 3.5mm>RCA cable to the line out (green port) of the motherboard. Mobo audio should be at 100% and only the knob on the amp controls the volume. If that gives you clean sound without any distortion or constant electrical noise, you don't need to get a DAC.

u/moshlyfe · 13 pointsr/Metalcore

Get an Audio Technica AT-LP60 + an amplifier + speakers + speaker wire. That's what I have and it cost me less than $180. Here's the Amazon links for everything I have:

Record player



Speaker wire


u/masetheace64 · 13 pointsr/buildapcsales

Give me about an hour and I'll edit this comment with store links to what I got.

Edit: Here is the list

  1. Receiver/Amp This is very basic and will only support the bookshelf speakers themselves. If you want to add a sub or center, your going to need a full on stereo receiver. WARNING - when plugging in the banana plugs into this receiver, i had to force them in a bit to make them stay in. I thought I broke it, but my friend who recommended me this receiver said thats how his is too. so if the banana plugs go in weird, its ok :).

  2. Audio to RCA adapter. This is the wire to hook up to your PC. This could vary per setup. My setup goes from speakers to receiver, then receiver to PC with this cable. You could use RCA to optical cable as well. You have to make sure that if your PC is hooked up to your TV or monitor via HDMI to change the Audio input from hdmi to speakers.

  3. Speaker wire This is how you connect the speakers to the receiver. and the best way to do that is with banana plugs

  4. Bananna Plugs - Any kind will do and each banana plug hooks up to the wire differently. Some come with instructions, others you might have to google. I had to look at amazon reviews to see how mine worked.

    Total - about 40 - 50 depending on where you get your stuff.
u/steadylit · 12 pointsr/EDM

Everyone here is making this so unnecessarily complicated. I just picked up DJing last year myself and it's not hard to start at all. I did quite a bit of research on what DJ controller would be the best for someone who is just starting, but also wants to have something more than a simple mixer.

  1. Build a music library and download Serato

  2. Import your music library and organize it to your liking.

  3. I bought a Pioneer DDJ SB2 and it's awesome. You can do really basic stuff but at the same time you have the ability to do some higher level mixing as well.

  4. While you wait for your controller to arrive, watch this It's a full on tutorial on how to use your controller along with Serato.

    Good luck and have fun! It's a blast to get into

    I FORGOT you obviously need a laptop and some speakers. Any speakers will do, just make sure it's RCA output. Here is a cheap converter if you currently have a 3.5mm output.
u/kfm946 · 10 pointsr/buildapcsales

I own a pair of these, they're phenomenal for the price, especially this sale price. Extremely comfortable, great mic and great drivers. I recommend ditching the USB dongle it comes with and using the 3.5mm jack (you may or may not need a splitter).

u/picmandan · 10 pointsr/diyaudio

If you want to use the center channel you’ll need more than a basic 2-channel amp - you’ll need a home theater receiver. Any old 5.1 system will do. You should be able to get them used for well under $100. Their main downside is their size.

You’ll also need speaker cables - 16 gauge is fine unless you want to run them over 15-20 feet or so, then 14 ga may be an improvement.

Then run an aux cord from the PC sound out to auxiliary input on the receiver. You may need an adapter like this to go from 3.5mm to RCA inputs (or something that does a similar job).

No special audio interface needed if you’re not doing surround sound. Stereo input for the left/right/center channel is fine.

u/GramboLazarus · 10 pointsr/realdubstep

IMHO: A subwoofer isn't optional when it comes to dubstep. You'll be missing all the low-end (which let's be honest, is why we're all here) if you omit a decent sub from you set up. As far as amps (I call these receivers) go, you'd probably be best off visiting your local pawn shop or anywhere you can get pre-owned electronics and picking something up. I got mine for under $100CAD and it has power to spare. For ease of set-up I'd suggest finding something with dedicated subwoofer outputs on the back. As for speakers, these or these will do right by you. Personally I use this subwoofer, and it has the juice to have my entire house shaking. Wires are pretty much standard in my experience as long as you're talking about a simple home listening system. These wires would do fine for your needs. If you want a proper listening experience dont use bluetooth speakers, and dont skimp on a subwoofer.

Hope that helps, my dude!

u/TMobotron · 9 pointsr/synthesizers

Volca beats uses a dual unbalanced mono signal. When you use headphones, the same mono signal is going to the left speaker and the right speaker using the left and right connections of the cable, which causes no problems. When you use an audio interface, you're plugging a cable carrying two identical signals into a jack that's expecting two identical signals but with one of them phase inverted. Your audio interface is probably expecting a mono balanced input, which is not what it's getting. Normally with a balanced input, the signals are sent phase inverted. The receiving hardware then flips the inverted signal and the signals are combined.

With the dual unbalanced signal, since neither signal is being sent phase inverted, when the receiving hardware inverts the signal it becomes phase inverted. When the signals are combined, you're left with just the noise/distortion that a balanced cable is normally trying to eliminate.

Korg really should've made this more clear with the Volca series. FYI - here is the cable I'm using, which works fine (I only use one of the 1/4" plugs).

u/MiaowaraShiro · 8 pointsr/diyaudio

This sounds like a stereo/mono conversion issue. The melody for example might play on just the right channel and the drums are in stereo. If your mic input is mono it's probably not getting both channels. You should be connecting your PC via the RCA input jacks on the back of the amp, not the mic input.

You'll need a cable similar to this:

u/Arve · 8 pointsr/audiophile

They're powered speakers, meaning you don't need an amplifier or receiver.

You can plug them straight into a computer using this cable.

u/onsit · 8 pointsr/subaru

I originally did this install back in the day when these were first popping up and down, major credit goes to /u/zedix as I'm pretty sure he was the first one on Nasioc to start this whole trend for Subarus.

My first installation used a head unit that was tucked away behind everything. However the weak pre-amp, and the constant loss of settings (disconnecting battery), and lack on Steering Wheel controls really got annoying. So I set out on this Version 2 project.

*96svx.dc - David was an amazing resource with getting the required harnesses for an 08+, as my car came with a 24pin + 12pin adapter (premium nav) it was very hard to find 2 reverse harnesses that would make this install doable.**

  • 2012 Nexus 7 - 1st gen
  • Timur's USB ROM - in FI mode
  • Typical Apps...

  • Joycon CPJexr(CarPc Joycon Exr), converts steering wheel input into Keyboard strokes recognizable by the tablet. LINK
  • Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 - 300watt amp with Molex input/output LINK
  • USB Dual 80mm Fans with protective grill - LINK
  • 3.5mm inline to RCA (dual channel) - LINK
  • Amazon USB hubs, cheap and easy to hack into - LINK
  • Monoprice USB Extension Cables - LINK
  • SanDisk Cruzer Fit 32GB - Stores Music - LINK
  • Monoprice Micro USB OTG Adapter - LINK
  • USB Y-Power adapter
  • JDM 2-tone AV panel
  • 12v to 5v DC/DC converters (You will need a couple of these, as they are from China they might be DoA)
  • Other various adapters, and 14 ga wire for all of this to work..

    I created a double din sized Acrylic box from 1/4" sheets cut to size by a local shop... Here are the outer dimensions if you are interested in making a similar box to hold all of this.

  • [OD] - 4" x 7" x 5.75"
  • [x 1] - 4" x 7"
  • [x 2] - 6.5" x 5.5"
  • [x 2] - 4" x 5.5"

    Hardest part out of the whole install was coming up with the wiring scheme, as all of this is fed off of 12v ignition. The tablet needed to be able to charge, and the USB hub needed to receive power separate from the OTG y-splitter. I simply spliced into the cheap-o USB hubs and made my own DIY 5v USB hubs.

u/Rrussell2060 · 8 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

To build a system using the minimum recommendations from this sub, let's start with this diagram:
DAC is optional, so is a subwoofer but I recommend one.

DAC: Behringer UCA202 $29.99 Link:

Amplifier: SMSL SA-50 $68.99 Link:

Subwoofer: Dayton Audio SUB-800 $99.00 Link:

Bookshelf Speakers: Micca MB42X $89.00 Link:

Wire: 16-gauge Speaker Wire $8.00 Link:

With DAC, this cable: Stereo Male to 2 RCA Male $5 Link:

Without DAC, this cable: Monoprice 105597 3-Feet Premium Stereo Male to 2RCA Male $5 Link:

This is a great starter system, I would have loved to had something like this starting out.
All of these pieces can be upgraded, do your research. Look for sales etc. Good luck and have fun.

u/JohnBooty · 8 pointsr/diyaudio

I've built a bunch! Those instructions are fine. Only thing I'd change is I'd use a round speaker terminal cup in step #14, rather than the square one they show in the picture. Something like this in other words. Just because it's easier to cut a round hole -- you can just use a round circle cutting bit in your drill. You can get them for as low as like $2ea on Amazon or elsewhere.

> Do I need an amplifier?

Something like a cheap Lepai is fine.

A "real" amp like this or this or a used home theater amp for $50 from Craigslist will more or less get the full 100% of performance from the Overnight Sensations at higher volumes. A small Class D amp like this is a good compromise IMHO.

All of those amps ought to sound the same at low volumes. For "desktop listening" where you're sitting a few feet away, the Lepai should get plenty loud.

> Do I need a digital to audio converter?

Probably not. With the possible exception of the Lepai, all the amps I linked to have a dual RCA audio input. The typical "red and white audio inputs" you've surely seen in many places. All you need is a basic headphone-to-RCA adapter like this, assuming your music playing thingy has a headphone jack.

u/Mathias787 · 7 pointsr/buildapc

I advocate using component bookshelves speakers with a mini amp unless space is at a big premium. They are better engineered, have better bang for your buck, and have a much cleaner sound.

You have the added bonus that the speakers are more flexible for other uses and, if you wanted to go from 2.0 to something else, it's a pretty easy upgrade, ala: you don't have to pitch the old system and get something new. I think you'd find a good 2.0 system to be much more impressive than a lot of the gamer sound systems out there.

Polk Audio T15 Bookshelf Speakers

Dayton Audio DTA-1 Digital Amplifier

Amazon Basics Speaker Cable

Another note: A system like this will sound way fuller without a boominess that you'd get from most gaming 2.1 sound systems. All of my friends that I have recommended go this route have loved it!

u/AgentScreech · 7 pointsr/infiniti

Here's the best way to handle this. I'm making assumptions that you have a smartphone and the RCA jacks in your car's armrest.

Get the following.

  • a wired to bluetooth transmitter
  • a usb car charge port
  • 3.5mm to rca jack cable (as short as possible)
  • a cd player mount for your phone

    Take the 3.5->RCA cord and plug the RCA ends into the aux jack inside the armrest. Put the USB charger in the 12v socket that's also in the armrest. Take the bluetooth transmitter plug in the power (with the supplied micro USB to normal USB cord) and plug in the 3.5 end of the RCA cord to the jack on the transmitter.

    Once the car is on and the transmitter is powered up, pair your phone to the transmitter per the instructions that came with it. After its paired, put all the wires and the transmitter in the armrest and forget about it. You'll never have to deal with it again unless something goes wrong.

    Now take the CD player car mount, and turn it so it's horizontal. Put your phone in it and adjust the sides to make sure it doesn't slide out. Switch your car audio system to AUX and leave it there. The only downside is you can't control the audio from the steering wheel. The only thing you can do is adjust the volume.

    Now you have an always updated nav system that has guidance and the ability to listen to all your music via the car stereo. I wouldn't try any other BT transmitter. It's the key to the whole deal and I know that one works. The rest of the stuff is universal and pretty generic. You may have some/most of them already. You can really shop around for the USB charger, RCA cable and CD player mount and get the cost down more. The whole setup should be around $75 or less.

    This is by far the most effective, economical way to get what you want. There isn't really a way to update or modernize the stock equipment outside of buying a new car. I'm pretty sure that's by design.
u/astallasalion · 7 pointsr/buildapcsales

You'll want a DAC or audio interface to get the most value out of these.

You can run these with a 3.5mm to 2xTS adapter but you'll be much more susceptible to grounding issues/noise.

The best solution would be to get a device that has balanced TRS/XLR output (both are electrically equivalent, pin-for-pin).

u/honer123 · 7 pointsr/xboxone

Actually connect this Headset adapter for headsets with separate headphone / microphone plugs - 3.5mm 4 position to 2x 3 position 3.5mm M/F

Then the mono adapter to the headphone side

Then this,
Maeline 3.5mm Female to 2 Male Gold Plated Headphone Mic Audio Y Splitter Flat Cable

u/effin_dead_again · 7 pointsr/vintageaudio

I love the look of the old rack systems. They may not have top of the line components but they still sound pretty good.

It looks like your setup was well taken care of! If I were you I would do the following:

  • Before you play any records examine the stylus on the turntable tonearm and replace it if it looks worn or corroded. It looks like this is the stylus you need but you'll need to compare what's actually on your turntable before ordering
  • Before you play any cassettes clean and demagnetize the cassette deck heads. A simple cotton swab and some rubbing alcohol on the head will clean it, and an inexpensive tape head demagnetizer is all you need. Here's a video guide on demagnetizing
  • Get a Chromecast Audio and a 3.5mm to RCA cable so you can enjoy your tunes without the compression problems of Bluetooth.
  • Get rid of the books and binders and other junk and fill up your shelves with records, cassettes, and CDs!
u/MardukX · 7 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

How big is your room? What are you using this system for primarily - music, movies, video games? A mix? Are you looking for a 2.0 system (two front speakers only), a 2.1 (front speakers plus subwoofer), or something bigger (adding in another front channel speaker, subwoofer(s), etc.)? Are you located in the US or elsewhere? See below for some start-up recommendations, from a fellow newbie located in the US..

u/djscsi · 7 pointsr/DJs

1: Use a RCA->1/4" M-M cable

2: Buy some of these super handy adapters and use them with a regular RCA cable

u/marssaxman · 7 pointsr/Beatmatch

I have never heard of "cinch cables", and a web search only turns up what are basically zipties, so I don't know what your friend is on about.

Bring an RCA-to-RCA cable, definitely, since you'll most likely be plugging your controller's RCA output into one of the RCA line inputs on the club's DJ mixer. But I'd also bring either an RCA-to-phono cable, or a pair of RCA-to-phono adapters, because sometimes you'll need to plug into a PA style mixer instead, which will use 1/4" phono jacks for its stereo line inputs.

I also carry an RCA-to-XLR cable - I don't need it very often, but it's nice to know that I'll always be able to plug in, no matter what kind of crazy situation I encounter.

u/Man-Bear_Pig · 7 pointsr/hometheater

Plug in to audio out-
Hosa CPR-202 Dual 1/4 inch TS to Dual RCA Stereo Interconnect Cable, 6.6 feet

u/moustachedelait · 7 pointsr/karaoke
  • I started out with just trying to get it going on my laptop with kjams & a microphone.
  • But that didn't sound good and look good, so I hooked up my laptop to my tv through a receiver
  • But using my mic through the laptop mic hole, caused a delay between the audio of the song and the mic
  • This is why you need a mixer. You need the sound of the laptop and the sound of the mic to arrive at the same time. I got this one. Mic goes in channel one, laptop goes in channel 3 or 4 (get the right cable)
  • That mixer's output goes into my receiver now. My receiver allows to get the audio from a different input than the video. This was essential in my setup. I have a basic yamaha 4 hdmi receiver. I turn it to hdmi1, but get the sound from one of the audio inputs, where the mixer goes into (get the right cable)
  • sweet, now I have music and mic arriving in my receiver, and it's going to the speakers and the tv is displaying my laptop
  • now people are tripping over the mic cable and they want a second mic
  • get yourself some wireless mics. the ones i bought are no longer for sale but they are "dual channel" and "uhf" or something
  • now you need some songs though I have to say, just opening youtube and searching a song title + ' karaoke' works pretty darn well as well
  • and some disco lights!
  • my friends like it and say it's the best home setup they know

    Btw, nice effort on the è but you want the other one: fiancé
    It's easy to remember: é the stripe goes on and so does the sound. è the stripe stops and the sound is short

u/fence-sitter · 7 pointsr/macsetups

I don't really have a recommendation, but make sure you decide on how you'll setup your audio connection. Like if you want to use speakers get a monitor with a audio out port, or you could plug them directly into the ps4 controller but I got annoyed being tethered so I ended up buying like three adapters

u/RetepNamenots · 7 pointsr/fffffffuuuuuuuuuuuu

It may not have a 3.5mm audio out, but does it have a component audio out (red and white plugs)? If so you can get one of these:

u/timrbrady · 6 pointsr/Gamecube

There's no cheap, high quality way to do this. You're either going to pay a bunch for a Gamecube specific adapter or you're going to get a subpar experience through an inexpensive composite to HDMI adapter that's liable to result in latency issues.

Since there's lots of examples in this thread on the higher quality solutions, here's a cheap(er) low quality solution. This is the current "best seller" composite to HDMI video adapter on Amazon, no clue how well it works but it claims to do what you're looking for. Since your monitor doesn't allow for audio, you're going to have to get some speakers in the mix. If you've already got computer speakers with a 3.5mm plug (like headphones have), you'll need to use an RCA to 3.5MM adapter with females on both end to go between the Cubes audio cables and the speakers.

You could also get a low-latency gaming-oriented capture card, I don't know enough about this to even recommend something. For my money, I'd just spend $15 on a tube TV from Goodwill.

u/cocobandicoot · 6 pointsr/PS3

Another person asked a similar question a couple weeks ago. Here's the response I have him, which will likely help you:

Yes, you can use a computer monitor as a display for your PS3 (or nearly any video game console for that matter). There are multiple ways to set this up; I'm going to provide you with what I think is the easiest and what will give you the highest quality based on your setup. Note that there are other ways to do this, but I guarantee these instructions are what you are looking for.


What you need you need to have:

  • A computer monitor that supports DVI. Check to ensure your monitor has this port.
  • An HDMI to DVI cable -OR- an HDMI cable + an HDMI to DVI adapter.
  • A stereo audio (RGB) female to 3.5mm (headphone style) female adapter.
  • A standard issue PS3 composite audio/video cable.

    If you don't have these cables, you can order them online or get them from Best Buy or Radio Shack (but they will be much cheaper online).

    Note: the audio adapter I mentioned above only supports traditional, analog speakers. In other words, make sure your speakers plug in using this type of connector.

    The HDMI to DVI goes from the PS3 into your monitor. The PS3 composite cables also get plugged into your PS3, and attach the audio adapter onto the red and white plugs on the PS3 composite cable (the yellow plug will just hang loose). Now, plug the headphone-style adapter into your speakers.

    On the PS3, just ensure that under Audio Settings, that "Multi Channel Output" is turned on.

    And that should do it. Hope this helps!
u/josefnpat · 6 pointsr/volcas

So this came to a surprise to me, just because I haven't had that much experience with this kind of gear.

Here are my notes:

  1. Plugging in headphones (TRS) to the volca works fine.
  2. Plugging in a stereo cable (TRS) to a normal stereo system works fine.
  3. Plugging in a stereo cable (TRS) to a mixing board = huge amounts of white noise.
  4. Plugging in a mono cable (TS) to a mixing board = works perfectly.

    I don't have enough details, but I think you're connecting your volca (stereo) to a line in (mono) and it's getting messed up because the mixing board is expecting mono.

    I figured this out by taking one of my 3.5mm TRS to 6.35 mm TS cable only using the T and it worked fine.

    My final solution was to buy a TS 3.5mm to TS 6.35mm cable for each of my volcas and everything works fantastically now.

    edit: if you're using a volca sample, which is actually stereo, you'll want to split the TRS to 2x TS and put it into two channels on your mixing board.
u/drdiddlegg · 6 pointsr/hometheater
u/balward · 6 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Just pick up something like this and plug it in to your phone and the receiver and you're good to go.

u/Caswell64 · 6 pointsr/vinyl

So all speakers need to be 'driven' by an amplifier- meaning fed electric power to do their magic in addition to the sound signal. Powered speakers have the amp built-in so you just need to send the line-level sound (typically over RCA connectors) and the built-in amp will take care of the rest. Passive speakers, by contrast, do not have an amplifier, and expect one to drive them in addition to the sound signal. Almost always they are both carried over speaker wire like this (

Those Dayton speakers are passive, so you will need an amp like the one you linked. I'm not familiar enough with that amp to give an informed judgment as to whether that amp is powerful enough to drive those speakers.

Also, for background, what the pre-amp (or phono stage) is doing is converting the very weak signal coming from your turntable cartridge to the line-level signal that external amps or powered speakers would expect. It also reverses the RIAA equalization put on records to sound better- it boosts the bass an diminishes the treble compared to what's cut on the record itself (if it was pressed without equalization, the stylus would bounce around in the groove because of the bass, and the treble would be too faint to play back reliably).

u/sk9592 · 6 pointsr/hometheater

You will want three 3.5mm stereo jack to RCA cables.

Each one of those three 3.5mm outputs on the rear of your motherboard output two channels:

  • Green outputs front left and right (stereo)

  • Black outputs the two surround channels

  • Orange outputs the center and subwoofer channels
u/k3uuu · 6 pointsr/headphones

My guess is a set of 3.5mm male jack to y split RCA male jack cables. The idea is that you're using the onboard DAC of your macbook, and so the signal running into your magni should be analog already (hence coming from the 3.5mm as opposed to USB)

EDIT: Here's an amazon link to what I'm talking about.

If I'm wrong someone please correct me before this guy wastes 7 bucks.

u/teandro · 6 pointsr/headphones

You need a RCA to 3.5mm male

u/MyPackage · 6 pointsr/vinyl

Buy a U-Turn Basic, Micca MB42 speakers, Lepai amp, Pyle pre amp and some cheap speaker wire

It's over your budget but this is about as cheap as you can get while still getting new high quality gear.

u/kaeaene · 5 pointsr/vinyl

You'll need an amplifier, since those speakers are not powered.

This is a cheap amplifier, if all you want is for your setup to work.

And one of these 3.5mm to RCA cables to connect your turntable to the amp.

And some speaker wire to connect the amp to your speakers.

edit: listen to rpbtz's response. The sidebar has everything you need to know at this stage.

u/BangsNaughtyBits · 5 pointsr/podcasts

A full setup that will record four local mics, max, or two local mics and a Skype caller. A choice of mics.

Behringer UMC404HD interface for $100 (needs a USB cable I think)

Behringer HA400 headphone amp for $25

Needs two TRS 1/4" stereo cables, one for the headphone amp and one for Skype. $10

Behringer XM1800S three pack of good enough mics for $40

or a slightly better Behringer XM8500 at $20 each

or a very nice Blue enCORE 100 at $60

A couple 9-foot XLR cables for $12 or vary as you see fit

On-Stage, desk stand for $13 (lots of options)

You need some RCA to 1/4" TS cables. Technically two though there are reasons up to four and this six pack is cheap at $8. Wish they were shorter.

or you can get by with one of these.

and my personal favorite, the UCA202 for $30

This gives you full Skype access to the other rig for Two local mics.


u/hix3r · 5 pointsr/Destiny

EDIT: Corrected diagram based on suggestions below.

Made your solution plan into a diagram for clear graphical representation. The cables needed that Destiny probably doesn't have/didn't order yet:

u/PurpleTittyKitty · 5 pointsr/wiiu

Here's a nifty little item that might work for you, if you have a way to use component cables instead of hdmi/dvi conversion You could just plug your headphones directly into the wii u sound output. Hopefully your headphones have a volume control, but if not you could just get one of those, too

u/forhelvede · 5 pointsr/techsupport

Does the the tv have phono/RCA on the back? If yes you should be able to use something like this to get sound to the docking station and still get sound from the TV speakers.

u/rectalslurpee · 5 pointsr/rocksmith

Are you serious? Thats a subwoofer it only produces low frequencies. You need a set of regular speakers to get full spectrum sound. The picture of the dog makes me wonder if this is a joke about woofers.

Edit: That subwoofer is part of a 5.1 speaker setup and you only have the sub, the other speakers plug into the sub. The only way to get sound from both the tv and the sub is to use a splitter like this and plug into the tv as well as the sub.

u/rjmana · 5 pointsr/headphones

> and by saying at the same time i mean that you can swap between them in e.g. windows speaker settings.

not this way. you cant use your pc to control which way down the rca cable a signal will go.

just get a splitter cable. it will output sound to both, just turn off the one youre not using. i used piggyback cables for that

edit: also if you insist on a switch there are many rca switches im sure you can find online. if you want something keeping to the theme of the schiit stuff you already have, get the schiit sys as your switch

u/dicarlobrotha2 · 5 pointsr/COROLLA

I have done this on a 2017, which uses the same system and can be swapped out in the same fashion. There are a few caveats that may sway your decision however.

I used the iDatalink Maestro RR with the TO2 harness that allowed a very straight-forward installation with no modification to the factory wiring. This is not where this story ends, however.

The Maestro and harness kits do not come with the adapters required for factory USB, Aux (sort of), AM/FM radio, GPS, Satellite Radio, or any integration for the factory microphone. This last part is what has pained me the most in this whole thing, as I've yet to install the aftermarket microphone or make the attempts necessary to try to get the factory one working. I've got lots of wiring diagrams, but no free time.

I used this Axxess adapter for the factory USB. Fits perfectly, just plug into the radio and the factory connector. Wrap the radio USB end with TESA tape so it doesn't disconnect.

The antenna adapters for GPS and Satellite Radio are available from iDatalink as the ACC-SAT-TO2 kit. They should connect directly to the factory harnesses and then to the new radio, but if they don't work for you this is not required to be a specific iDatalink replacement so you may be able to find another brand that works.

I think I ordered the Metra 40-LX11 for the AM/FM radio antenna but I have yet to actually install it so I'm not 100% positive this will work. It says for select 08 and newer Toyota/Lexus vehicles and most Toyotas are fairly similar when it comes to these connectors. Especially given that the Entune radio available in the Corolla is the model used in other non-Corollas I'd imagine it's more likely to be compatible.

For auxiliary input, you do get the aux connection as RCAs, but you may need to invest in a female RCA to male 3.5mm adapter. Don't bother with the one that has red white AND yellow because it's only wired for red and white (audio). Something like this should work fine.

Oh and for actually installing the radio, just get this dash kit. Don't make my mistake and get the cheaper Metra one, it's not worth it.

I hope this is probably more than enough information to get you on the right track. Feel free to PM me if you have questions!

u/002_CCCP · 5 pointsr/crtgaming

Hey all!

This is probably old news for many of you but for those thinking of setting up GroovyMAME with CRT_EmuDriver, do it; you won't be disappointed. It is a little bit of mucking around but the fruits of your labour are well worth it.

Some helpful links that I've collected along the way:

GroovyMAME -- Get the latest GroovyMAME from here. This forum is also pretty active so if you get stuck, you may find someone else in a similar spot as you. A great resource!

CRT_EmuDriver -- Get the latest CRT_EmuDriver versions here. Also has guides for setting up based on your selected hardware / software setup.

Wavebeam Guide -- Excellent and comprehensive guide from Wavebeam detailing the entire setup (including software and hardware requirements). Given that it is over a year old, use it as a reference to give you an idea of what is involved. The hardware aspects are pretty much the same now, but some of the pieces relating to software you will want to seek more up-to-date info.

Buttersoft Windows + CRT / PVM Guide -- buttersoft's supremely thorough thread on hooking your PC up to your CRT / PVM. Lots of great info here.

GroovyMAME Setup Thread -- Recap's thread on setting up GroovyMAME. The guides and posts on the Eiusdemmodi forum are descriptive and thorough. In particular, you should read this post as it has useful information pertaining to audio latency (search for 'PortAudio') and I foolishly missed it the first time and wasted a lot of unnecessary time with ASIO4ALL.

As for my setup, before I begin, I will point out that it is not ideal for someone planning to avoid Windows and boot directly into a MAME frontend. For that, you should really consider a discrete card that be flashed with Calamity's ATOM-15 -- more info here. I went the way I did because I wanted to be able to keep my computer relatively versatile given that I already have a dedicated cabinet.
With that out of the way...I spent probably more than I needed to getting this up and running. I couldn't find a whole lot of info about people who have set this up on relatively "new" hardware. Most people tend to favour older OS's and discrete cards, whereas I was more interested in Windows 10 and an AMD APU based system after reading this post outlining the hardware behind the recent SkyCurser arcade game. Enough waffling on:

  • Case: IN WIN BM643BK18PNU3
  • CPU / GPU: AMD A8-7600 Kaveri
  • Mobo: ASRock A88M-ITX/ac R2.0
  • RAM: Ballistix Elite 4GB Single DDR3 2133 (probably should get another for dual channel)

    It is all hooked up to my Olympus OEV-203 via a VGA to RGBHV cable, with the H/V sync on a BNC Y adaptor (male to dual female). I am just running the audio through the mono speaker on the PVM at the moment using a 3.5mm to RCA cable with a RCA Y splitter.

    Hope this helps some of you. Good luck!
u/mustfix · 5 pointsr/buildapc

Doubtful, since desktop cases have so much more room compared to laptops or smartphones (where this is used), that it doesn't make economical sense to retool/redesign. Maybe some mITX cases?

You'll have better luck just getting a splitter.

u/DZCreeper · 5 pointsr/buildapc

More speakers doesn't equal more immersive. When buying sound equipment a lot of the value comes from things not properly listed on specifications, such as total range frequency within a certain amount of total harmonic distortion.

A good set of studio monitors is a better sound solution than most people have ever owned. - Some slightly above entry level studio monitors. - Connection cable needed. - Isolation pads to prevent desk vibration and angles them towards your ears properly.

Assuming your motherboard isn't using a really poor audio chipset and you are using a high quality audio source they will sound pretty good. If you want to hit frequencies below 70Hz with significant volume I suggest adding a dedicated subwoofer of 10" minimum, although 12-15" is more ideal.

u/applevinegar · 5 pointsr/audiophile

A pair of LSR305s and this cable.

u/metafizikal · 5 pointsr/audiophile

You need a 3.5mm to TS cable like this. If you were to use optical, you would need a DAC (because the speakers take an analog input and optical is digital.

u/grendelone · 5 pointsr/hometheater

> our HTR (Sony STR DN1030) does not have a true analog input that he can connect his phone to using a 3.5mm cable.

This is not correct. Your receiver has plenty of RCA analog inputs. A simple 3.5mm to RCA cable will connect the phone to one of the line inputs. You have at least two sets of RCA analog audio in's on the lower left (looking at the back).

$8 on Amazon or available at any Best Buy, Walmart, Target, etc.:

u/Wulmar · 5 pointsr/headphones

Check the link below:

AmazonBasics 3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter Cable - 8 Feet

It’s cheap and works well, if you don’t plan on using external DAC that cable should be all you need :)

Enjoy your Magni :)

u/pswii360i · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

You're going to need an amplifier to use them on your pc. I personally use a powered subwoofer that connects my speakers to my pc. You can find cheap amps on Amazon for like 20 bucks.

This one for example seems like it would work. Just plug your pc audio out into the audio input on the amp and connect the speakers via speaker wire to the terminals. I've used very similar devices with my bs22's and it worked great. You just may need an rca to 3.5mm adapter to connect your pc to the amp, like this one.

I'm bad at explaining things, if you have any more questions let me know!

u/mr_oysterhead92 · 5 pointsr/livesound

One of these cables in the Red & White jacks on Channel 7-8 will work

u/LBriar · 5 pointsr/audioengineering

An 1/8" (laptop/iPad) to RCA (KRK unbalanced in) cable. Don't try to go stuffing an unbalanced out into the 1/4"/XLR ins.

Optionally, a pair of HS8s.

u/e60deluxe · 5 pointsr/hometheater

go and get the self powered version of the speakers, the PB42x.

hook them up to your TV using an RCA connection

in your TVs menu, under audio settings, set the audio output to variable. voila, your TV remote controls the volume of the RCA outputs.

your done at around $130-140.

start saving for subwoofer. preferably one with high passed outputs. if you are fine with sticking to 2ch for the foreseeable future, you can skip the receiver.

u/drop_official · 5 pointsr/u_drop_official

Useful feedback, I'll mention it to the product people. PS, You can get a 3rd party one, it's just an audio-Y connector like this.

u/Tacanacy · 5 pointsr/PS4

For the time being, I use an Audeze LCD-2 Classic through a Schiit Lyr 2 and a Schiit Modi 2 Uber. I use Røde Procaster as a mic and Behringer Q502USB as a mixer.

I've listed my recommendations and suggestions below. There's also some info you should know if you want to get more value for your money. I know it's a lot, but I've explained in the least technical way I can and there are many benefits with this over all-in-one "gaming" headsets. Just ask me if you have questions.



  • AKG K612 Pro, K701, K702, K712 Pro, Q701
  • Audio-Technica ATH-AD500x, AD700x, AD990x
  • Beyerdynamic DT880, DT990
  • Monoprice Monolith M1060
  • Philips Fidelio X2, SHP9500
  • Samson SR850
  • Sennheiser Game One (headset), HD558/HD579, HD598/HD599
  • Shure SRH1840
  • Status Audio OB-1
  • Superlux HD668B, HD681, HD681 EVO


  • AKG K52, K550
  • Audio Technica ATH-MSR7
  • Beyerdynamic Custom One Pro Plus, DT770
  • Monoprice Modern Retro
  • Sennheiser Game Zero (headset)
  • Shure SRH940, SRH1540
  • Status Audio CB-1
  • Superlux HD662, HD662 EVO, HD669
  • V-MODA Crossfade M-100

    I have AKG K52, AKG Q701, Audio-Technica ATH-AD700X, Beyerdynamic DT990 Edition (600 ohms), Philips Fidelio X2, Philips SHP9500, Sennheiser HD598 SR, Superlux HD662 EVO, Superlux HD668B, Superlux HD669 and Superlux HD681 EVO of these headphones, and can recommend them for different needs, preferences and budgets.


    The first thing you should determine is whether you need sound isolation or not.

  • Open-back: the earcups have perforations/openings that allow sound to freely pass through. The sonic benefits with this is generally a larger soundstage and better imaging.

  • Closed-back: the earcups have solid shells that isolate sound from passing through to various extent.


    Next, you should figure out which sound signature you prefer.

  • Balanced/flat/neutral: doesn't over- or under-emphasize the bass or treble. Rolled off sub-bass often gets a pass.
  • Warm: emphasizes the bass.
  • Dark: recesses the treble. A headphone can be warm and dark.
  • Bright: emphasizes the treble.
  • U-shape: emphasizes the bass and treble a little.
  • V-shape: emphasizes the bass and treble more than U-shaped.
  • Mid-forward: the mids are louder than the bass and treble. The mids may be emphasized or the bass and treble may be recessed.

    If you want louder rumble, then you want linear or emphasized sub-bass. This is easier to find in closed-back. Open-back typically has rolled off sub-bass with the exception of planar magnetic / orthodynamic headphones. If you come across HE400i, an open-back planar, then note that the revision had a backplate removed and therefore causes a bass roll-off, a larger soundstage and brighter treble than the original.

    If you want louder impact, then you want emphasized mid-bass.


    Lastly, you should know what sound characteristics constitute positional audio and pertain to immersion.

  • Soundstage: is produced by the headphone, not the game. It's perceived space and environment of sound. It's the size of the sound field. A small soundstage makes the environment around you sound confined or boxed in. With a large soundstage, the environment sounds much more spatial, open and natural. You can't comprehend it without experiencing it.

  • Imaging: is inherent to the audio content. It's how accurately the locations of sounds/objects are reproduced.

  • Separation: is how you discern individual sounds from a range of overlapping sounds. This is only important for competitive shooters.

    Regarding virtual surround sound:

    You're going to come across a lot of stereo elitism in audio enthusiast forums if you bring up virtual surround sound. Virtual surround sound isn't bullshit or a gimmick. That's coming from someone who generally prefers stereo much more than virtual surround sound and has bought Q701, AD700x, DT990, Fidelio X2, HD598, HD700 and HD800 in pursuit of bigger and better soundstage and imaging to get the same three-dimensional space and environment of sound that virtual surround sound produces.

    Virtual Surround sound varies a lot from DSP (digital signal processor) to DSP (CMSS-3D, Dolby Headphone, SBX, etc.) How you perceive it compared to stereo also depends on the soundstage and imaging properties of the headphone and how well games are mixed. No matter how large the soundstage is and how good the imaging is, stereo doesn't sound fully three-dimensional as virtual surround sound at all times. Dialogues and very loud sounds like tanks, jets, trains, bonfires, collapsing buildings, galloping horses, etc. near you tend to sound very intimate and dominate in either ear when you don't face them.

    Virtual surround sound has its drawbacks too: it compresses and degrades the sound quality. I find it most noticeable with rain, waterfalls and splashing water; they sound akin to white and pink noise. Subtle details become faint or not audible. When headphones already have decent soundstage, imaging and separation, I find that virtual surround sound diffuses the positional audio and the ability to pick up audio cues. For competitive shooters, I only use stereo.

    I've used Dolby Headphone and SBX personally and listened to several others through videos on YouTube, and I prefer SBX from Creative when it comes to sound quality compared to Dolby Headphone and positional audio compared to all of them.



    Attachable to headphones

  • Antlion ModMic
  • Massdrop Minimic
  • V-MODA BoomPro


  • Audio-Technica AT2020USB
  • Blue Snowball
  • Blue Yeti
  • Neewer Clip on Mini Lapel Microphone
  • Samson Go
  • Sony ECMCS3
  • Zalman ZM-Mic1

    Sound cards:

  • Astro MixAmp Pro TR
  • Creative Sound BlasterX G1, Sound BlasterX G5
  • Turtle Beach Elite Pro TAC

    Headphone amplifiers and DACs:

  • Audioengine D1 (both)
  • Audio-gd NFB-11.28 (both)
  • Creative Sound Blaster X7 (both)
  • FiiO D3 (DAC)
  • FX Audio DAC-X6 (both)
  • Mayflower ARC (both)
  • Micca OriGen G2 (both)
  • Schiit Magni 3 (amp), Modi 2 Uber (DAC)
  • SMSL SD793-II (both)
  • Topping A30 (amp), D30 (DAC)

    The PS4/DS4 isn't capable of powering all headphones sufficiently, so you may need a sound card or an amp and a DAC (digital-to-analog converter). Power isn't just impedance dependent, it's also sensitivity dependent, which many new to this hobby overlook.

    If a headphone has a low impedance rating and a high sensitivity rating, it will be very easy to drive. If a headphone has a high impedance rating and a high sensitivity rating, it should be easy to drive. If a headphone has a high impedance rating and a low sensitivity rating, it will be hard to drive. If a headphone has a low impedance rating and a low sensitivity rating, it will be very hard to drive.

    There's no consensus on where 'high' impedance starts at. I've read/heard anywhere from 50 ohms to 300 ohms. For sensitivity, there are two different measurements used for this: SPL/mW and SPL/V. 100 dB SPL/mW and 110 SPL/V are considered high.

    If you don't want to ever deal with this, then I recommend just getting a very powerful sound card or amp, e.g. Creative Sound BlasterX G5 or Schiit Magni 3.

    Sound cards have an amp and a DAC built in and sacrifice sound quality for features. If you want to connect the headphone and mic (3.5mm mics, not USB mics) to the same source, then you have to use a sound card unless the amp has a separate jack for the mic and officially supports PS4, e.g. Mayflower ARC. Creative Sound Blaster X7's mic jack doesn't work with PS4. If the mic has an own cable and the source has only one jack for the headphone and mic, then you'll have to use a TRRS Y-splitter, also called a 4-pole Y-splitter. It has three black rings on the connector.

    If you don't mind the headphone cable and mic cable going different places, then you can connect the headphone to an amp and a DAC, and the mic to the controller, which requires a TRRS Y-splitter in order to work.

    USB mics connect directly to the USB port on PS4. You can also use an XLR mic, but they require a mixer. Interfaces don't work with PS4 because they require drivers.

    To use an amp, you need a DAC because USB and optical are digital signals and PS4 has no analog outputs. USB DACs may reverse the left and right channels or not work at all, so I have only included DACs that use optical, which is completely reliable. You can use an HDMI-to-optical converter if you have Slim.

    To connect a separate amp to a DAC, you need RCA cables.

    Alternatively, you can use a sound card that merely functions as an audio USB adapter. Since the V-MODA BoomPro connects to the jack on the headphone and replaces the original headphone cable, you'll need to use a Y-splitter, which is included with the BoomPro.

    If you want to connect the headphone and mic (3.5mm mics, not USB mics) to the controller but want volume and mic controls, you can use either of these:

  • adjustR
  • Fosmon
  • Insignia
  • Lucid Sound AdjustR
u/OneSchott · 5 pointsr/Chromecast

This is the best option. I would plug audio into a stereo too. The sound plugged into the projector would suck.

u/obito07 · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/boombap33 · 4 pointsr/audiophile

Monoprice 105597 3-Feet Premium Stereo Male to 2RCA Male 22AWG Cable - Black

u/EpisodeOneWasGreat · 4 pointsr/audiophile

The JBL LSR305 expects line level inputs via balanced XLR or 1/4" TRS connector.

The SVS SB12-NSD expects line level inputs via stereo RCA connectors, and can pass through line-level and high-pass outputs via stereo RCA connectors.

The AT-LP60 has phono and line outs through stereo RCA connectors.

Your laptop probably has a 1/8" stereo TRS connector.

Working backwards from your JBL, you can use a stereo 1/4" TS to RCA cable to connect the speakers to the line or low-pass RCA outputs on the SVS. Check your JBL manual to ensure that a 1/4" TS cable will not cause issues in its TRS jack. An alternative is to use an RCA to TRS cable.

In order to switch your signal source between your computer and your turntable, you'll need an RCA source selector. You can also use stereo receiver or pre-amplifier with source selection.

In order to get your computer's audio output from its line out to the splitter or receiver, you'll need a 3.5mm to RCA splitter cable. That cable will also work for a Coaxial SPDIF digital signal if you go with a receiver, and both the receiver and computer support Coaxial SPDIF. Your computer and the receiver may also support a SPDIF over TOSLINK, for which you'll need a TOSLINK cable. Note that TOSLINK cables and jacks come in two physically incompatible connectors.

The turntable can plug directly into the source selector.

The above Amazon links are to examples of cables and devices you could use with the relevant connectors. You could spend a lot more or less on each cable or device with different brands, colors, etc.

u/lightfork · 4 pointsr/buildapc

Using a free audio program such as Audacity, dub it with this male-to-male cable by going from the device's headphone jack to your computer's line in.

u/Lorben · 4 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

>Is there a better way?

Kinda. There's another way at least. Xbox party chart is available on Windows 10, and you can use a Windows computer as a mixer. Then you can use a headset attached to the computer to both hear Switch audio while running voice chat through the computer.

To do this you'll need an aux cable.

What you would need to do is find the Line-In jack on the back of your computer. Plug one end of the aux cable into the headphone jack on the Switch and the other into the Line-In on your computer

On your computer go to Sound Settings in the Control Panel. You can also use the search bar on your computer and search for "Sound".

In the main Sound settings there's a section for Input where you can choose your Input Device. Choose Line-In there.

Then click on Device Properties right below Input Device

Then click Additional Device Properties on the right

Now we're in Line-In properties, go to the Listen tab and check 'listen to this device'. Click on the drop down labeled "Playback through this device" and set it to your headset.

You may also want to go to the Levels tab and turn up the volume coming from line in.

Press "OK" to close Line-In properties. You should now be hearing both your computer and the Switch audio through the same headset.

So now you can use Discord\Xbox Party\Steam voice chat on the computer and have the audio mixed with the Switch sound.

u/HerbertTarlek · 4 pointsr/Brewers

If you want to listen to the radio while watching the game on the TV, all you need is a radio, patch cable, and Radiodelay on a PC. I've found that the radio broadcasts need to be delayed around 16 seconds to match up with FSWI on DirecTV.

u/deplorable-d00d · 4 pointsr/hometheater

Analog is the cheapest, fastest, and easiest.

Get a 3.5mm to RCA (stereo) Y adapter in the length you need:

Problem is, you may get buzzing from poor grounding, in which case you'll need to "lift" (isolate) the ground loop -

Plug something like this in-line, after the Y adapter, before the stereo AUX RCA inputs -

or a newer type (plug this into the computer first, then that Y adapter):

u/SmittyJonz · 4 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Yes, just like Logitech’s

But use a 3.5mm to rca cable

They may come with a cable?

u/BeardedAlbatross · 4 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Sure you can piece something together, but it won't be recommended to purchase more than your main left and right speakers at your sub $350 budget. You can position yourself to add to it down the line by purchasing an affordable 5.1 home theater receiver. You can check accessories4less for decently priced refurbished units. Plenty of people around these parts have used them and they seem to be pretty good.

Something like this Denon should be $170 after shipping. Add in a few bucks for speaker wire and spend the rest on speakers.

I would say spend the rest on a pair of used/open box Polk S15 speakers. They're the new kids on the block that are fairly attractive, offer good performance for the money, and are at heavy discounts used quite often.

To that setup you can add a BIC F12 if you search your local craigslist, or once you have the money be on the lookout for the Dayton SUB1200 to go on sale for $135 on parts-express. After the sub your next addition would be the Polk S30 center channel that can be found for $130. After that come your surrounds which you don't have to spend as much moeny on. You'd either buy the matching Polk S10 or something cheaper.

Yeah it's a little more effort but it's fun to learn about and it's pretty modular. Plus decent speakers will last you as long as you want. The same can't be said for a proprietary system like that Logitech. Outside of bass bloat, even the base left+right speaker and receiver will sound better than the logitech. Once you add a sub it's no contest.

Edit: Something like the JBL B17 are also a good buy right now at $150. For a 7" woofer in a ported cabinet that goes down to 55hz I would expect them to be easier to drive than their 87db sensitivity though, that's interesting.

u/Armsc · 4 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

You're going to need the following.

  1. Amplifier - no amp no sound. You can use something like a Lepy mini amp $25 if you're going for a desktop set.

  2. Speaker wire $10 - You can use speaker wire to connect the speaker and the amp as the Dayton has high level inputs. Run the speaker wire from the amp to the Dayton then from the Dayton to the speakers.

  3. 3.5mm to RCA $10 - You'll need this to hook the phone to the amp.
u/Slinger17 · 4 pointsr/nfl

LPT: Never, ever buy those shitty Logitech/Sony/Creative/whatever 2.1 speaker systems on Amazon for your PC

Instead, buy a cheap amp, some speaker wire and head to your local Goodwill to find some bookshelf speakers.

Boom. You now have high quality sound for under $50 that will blow anything you can find at that price point on Amazon out of the water.

Every Goodwill I've been in has had bookshelf speakers for sale, and if you're real lucky you can find some excellent equipment for dirt cheap. I found a pair of these bad boys for freaking $13 last weekend

u/wsteineker · 4 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

No worries, buddy. Happy to help. You don't need to worry about a preamp just yet, as your turntable has one built in. Just make sure you have the selector switch on the back of the unit set to "line" rather than "phono" and you're all set. As for connecting the speakers to the receiver, I managed to find a pic of the rear connections on the U310. It looks like they use spring clips to connect, so you're going to have to use bare wire.

First thing you'll need is a spool of speaker wire. I've had good luck with the Amazon Basics stuff, and it's about as cheap as decent wire gets. You'll need to strip a bit of the jacket off of each wire on each end. I do it by hand, but you might want to try a wire stripper if you're not comfortable free-handing things. Once you've exposed the bare wire, simply give each side a quick twist to secure them into separate threads and insert each thread into the back of the speaker, depressing the spring clip to allow the wire to fit into the hole and releasing it to bite down on the wire. As for the back of the amp, the procedure's the same if it has spring clips. If it has binding posts like the SMSL I linked earlier, you'll want to unscrew them a bit, wrap the bare wire around the exposed post, and tighten the post heads back down to create a nice, tight seal.

One word of warning on the off chance you've never done anything like this before. Remember to connect your positive (red) terminals on your speakers to your positive terminals on your amp, and your negative (black) to negative. The speaker wire makes that pretty easy, as one channel is marked with a little white line so you'll always know what's going where. Additionally, make sure your amp's left output is wired to your left speaker and the right to the right. Simple stuff, but it's easy to miss if this is your first time.

u/Grazsrootz · 4 pointsr/PS4

Here's Exactly what you are looking for. LINK
there are more inexpensive options, but this one is highly rated and comes with the optical cable

And then one of these to convert the Output (RCA) to 3.5mm

I'm going to be honest with you. By the time you buy this you would probably be better off buying an inexpensive surround souind with an optical input. Sony also makes wireless headphones that are compatible with the PS3 and PS4
I have this one and they work and sound awesome

Elite Version

u/vivifortunia · 4 pointsr/ps2

Any real stereo reciever has red/white inputs.

I assume you have computer speakers.

RiteAV - 3.5mm Male to RCA Stereo Female Adapter Cable (Y-Cable) - 6 inch

Get this, attach it to the ps2 video out and the other side to your computer speaker's aux in.

u/o7_brother · 4 pointsr/headphones

Get the JDS Labs Atom instead of the Magni. I had a Magni 2 Uber and I prefer the Atom (as long as you don't mind the plastic build).

Modi 3 is fine though. They connect with a pair of RCA cables like these.

u/Piccoro · 4 pointsr/Chromecast

I'm looking at the specs of your TV, and it DOES have an audio output.

Just use the headphones output! If your Home Theater has an analog input, you can just buy a cheap adapter and connect from your TV's 3.5mm output to your sound system's RCA input.

You'll just need an adapter like this one:

u/CPOx · 4 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I use an ultra basic setup to connect my LSR305 to my desktop PC which does not have a dedicated sound card (motherboard audio jack only).

I plug a 3.5 mm to stereo RCA female into the motherboard's audio jack and then use these RCA male to 1/4" TS male cables to connect to the speakers.

u/checkerdamic · 4 pointsr/vinyl

I've set up numerous jenky make-it-work turntable-to-soundcard lines to sample so I'll try to give you a few options...

(1) Any decent turntable without a built in preamp (look at beginner turntable guide) and this could be new or used --> into a preamp (this is necessary for this setup) --> run RCA-to-1/4 lines into the back of the Apollo Twin (line 1 and line 2), this will keep your left and right channels separately. You need to make sure you can record into both at the same time. You could buy adaptors for your RCA line or a specific RCA-to-1/4 cable. Note: I'm giving you links to cheap ones.

  • With this option you could probably buy a decent used turntable for about $100 and a decent preamp for $50-100.

    (2) Buy a turntable with a built in preamp and do the same set up without a dedicated preamp. So, it would go turntable with preamp on running RCA-to-1/4 cable straight into back of your soundcard. Best options for a new one would be the Audiotechnica LP120 which is about $300 or the Stanton T92 for about $250-300. I personally think the stanton is slightly better on its stats but not by much and the stanton doesn't come with a hardcover, which kind of sucks. However, the stock cartridge on the stanton (Stanton V500) is a DJ cartridge that can take more damage and you can stop it, start it, and back cue and not worry about damaging the stylus or your records. The stock cart of the LP120 (AT95E) is a much better listening cart but you cannot back cue anything or start or stop on the fly without damaging the stylus.

    (3) Buy a turntable with a USB connection and plug in straight into your computer or the USB port on your soundcard (Edit: just realized not all of the Apollo Twin versions have USB inputs, so this might not be feasible, unless you plug straight into your computer). You could pick up Audiotechnica LP120USB which is about $300 or the Stanton T92 for about $250-300. USB port on turntables do not give the best sound quality however and you would probably better to go with one of the other options.

    Overall, I think option 1 would be the cheapest route and be a good option if you eventually getting into vinyl as a medium for listening. Also, these three options are specially tailored to your setup and there are other ways to do this. The best quality for vinyl to digital is to have a nice soundcard on a desktop that has dedicated RCA inputs and then you don't have to use adaptors.
u/alsm2090 · 4 pointsr/wiiu

This is more of what you should get.

If you don't like extra wires, you could get this instead.

u/donoftheslum · 4 pointsr/gaming

I use a HDMI to DVI to connect my PS3 to my computer monitor. No lag whatsoever.

If your monitor has speakers, than just use a HDMI cable to transfer both audio and video.

If not you need to get the audio another way.

I use this.

You use the HDMI cable for the video and this for the audio. You plug the standard red and white audio cables into this and either headphones or speakers into the other end.

Works like a charm.

u/t3chn0v1k1ng · 4 pointsr/PS3

use the deafult old school playstation out. take those red and white RCA cabes and run them into an Adapter don't worry about the yellow video one, just leave it out.

then plug your computer speakers into that adapter.
in Audio Settings you can chose to make the audio come out of the RCA connection and the video through hdmi.

I did this when I only had a computer monitor, works great. also allows for headphones.

u/massdrop · 4 pointsr/u_massdrop

Yep, I think the PC37x are a fantastic choice. You'll likely need a Y-connector to plug it into your PS4 though.

u/strategicdeceiver · 4 pointsr/audiophile
u/DPSnacks · 4 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

TRS cable out of your headphone jack -> split to two TS cables -> inputs of the 4 track cassette recorder

u/mookietaco3000 · 4 pointsr/BillBurr

Surely my friend.

For those wondering what you'll need to get this setup, here's the other items I chose to purchase:

Table: Audio Technia 60 non blue tooth edition

Micca MB42 Bookshelf Speakers With 4-Inch Carbon Fiber Woofer and Silk Dome Tweeter (Black, Pair)

Speaker wire:
AmazonBasics 16-Gauge Speaker Wire - 100 Feet

Seeduck Lepy lp 2020a Class-D Hi-Fi Audio Mini Amplifier with Power Supply Lepy Amplifier LP2020A

It was about $230 all together from amazon.

u/raistlin65 · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

If you like to pump your bass, then I recommend the JBL LSR 305 for $89 each.

The LSR305 are studio monitors that compete well in overall SQ with the best powered speakers <$500. IMO, they have better midbass and deeper bass extension than many other speakers their size. For example their lower end rated response is 43hz for their 5" drivers vs. 60hz for those Edifiers with the smaller 4" drivers. I think realistically, they have solid 50hz performance (and likely the Edifiers would be more like 70hz).

Tons of professional reviews for those speakers as they have been popular for years.

You would need to also purchase a special cable to plug it into your computer:

u/_mutelight_ · 3 pointsr/hometheater

Do you have a headphone jack on your TV? If so you could get something like this and run it from that into the Aux on that speaker.

Then for power, it looks like a standard power connector which you could use something like this.

Obviously since it is a single speaker, you won't get any L/R separation.

u/rsilverblood · 3 pointsr/ZReviews

Click the 2nd picture. It uses XLR or TRS (1/4" mono) connectors. You can use a 3.5mm to 2x 6.3mm mono (read: 1/4") Y splitter.

Translated: You need a cable that takes your 3.5mm stereo and makes it into two 1/4" mono.

(You should have a 3.5mm output from your motherboard's audio. But hopefully you'll buy a dedicated DAC if you want better audio.)

That kind of cable. You can use 1/4" mono audio extension cables if you've got longer cable runs.

NOTE: Your link is for ONE JBL LSR305. You'll need two if you plan to run it in stereo. Just sayin'

u/Trick5ter · 3 pointsr/diyaudio

You just need this -

Connect it to both speakers and the jack goes to pc and configure your soundcard to output stereo instead of 5.1 (I am not sure about this part since ive never used 5.1)

Also your speakers will work in single ended mode which is ok if the cables are not too long.

u/criose · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Yes, using adapters like this or this you can connect them to unbalanced sources using 3.5mm TRS or RCA respectively.

u/CrusherW9 · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Purchasing them individually will be fine. Each one should come with a power cable. Using them as a pair, each one will need to be plugged into power, and you'll need to connect each one to a signal. The speakers operate completely independently of each other. So to plug it into a normal 3.5mm source, a 3.5mm to 1/4" TS (mono) cable is what you want. XLR should only be used when your source is balanced, which a 3.5mm port from a computer motherboard or phone for instance is not. I used this exact cable with my BX5 D2s for a while until I got an audio interface and went XLR.

u/TrackieDaks · 3 pointsr/diyaudio

My bad, hosa.

Hosa CMP-159 3.5 mm TRS to Dual 1/4 inch TS Stereo Breakout Cable, 10 feet

u/Syradil · 3 pointsr/audiophile

My Christmas gifts have complicated my computer setup and I am wondering if a Schiit Uber stack is the answer.

I got myself a pair of JBL LSR305's and was gifted some Sennheiser 598's.

Currently using this cable to connect the LSR305's to my computer with no easy way to use the headphones or connect my ps3.

The way I picture it working is the computer connecting to the Schiit Modi 2 Uber via USB and the ps3 via optical, with the output running to the amp.

The amp is where my questions are. With the 305's connected to the Magni 2 Uber, will the volume knob control the speaker volume when no headphones are connected? Also, will the output automatically switch over to headphones when I plug them in to the Magni?

u/Costco1L · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Those included cords will not cover all of your needs since the Scarlett Solo does not have TRS or XLR output. You could actually just plug this into your computer's headphone jack (if the DAC is good). What's the point of the Scarlet interface other than a volume control knob? It just seems like a lot to spend at your budget if that's its main use.

u/jabob513 · 3 pointsr/PCSound

I personally recommend the Klipsch ProMedia as the best sub-$200 option. Sound is really solid and it's definitely got the bass. Plugging your computer in is straightforward and I believe the newest version has bluetooth as well. Best Buy used to have it as a demo with their computer speakers, not sure if they do anymore.

A better option might be studio monitors like the JBL LSR305/LSR30X which are also an insane deal. You'd need to get a bluetooth adapter and you'd need to worry about inputs (many studio monitors take 1/4" or XLR, which would require janky adapters (probably won't sound great out of a headphhone out without something like this) or a dac/audio interface like this or this. The JBL approach will get you a better sound (more accurate to the music, more balanced sound, magical amazing beautiful and perfect imaging) but will probably be a bit above what you'd like to spend. Most of that stuff can also be bought used if you are okay with that.

I would try and stretch or save up a bit for the monitors. They're a pretty solid step up from most all "computer speakers," and the JBLs in particular are one of the best bang-for-buck deals in audio that I've seen.

Best of luck, and feel free to shoot me a PM with more questions or what you decide to do!

u/Einsteins_coffee_mug · 3 pointsr/pocketoperators


these are my favorite for hand held PO noodling since they keep the cable neat cooked up like that. Takes up less room than a straight 3’ cable would.

And these guys are great for a nice solid desktop setup.

Depending on how you record or mix the output, you may want to pickup a 3.5mm to 1/4” breakout cable to deal with any stereo/balancing issues you might encounter.

u/idontlikevegetables · 3 pointsr/Guitar

Those loudspeaker jacks on the left side are for attaching another cabinet (speakers without an amp) to your amp. That "internal off" switch means you can drive a separate cabinet (treating your amp as a head) or you can run both the speakers in the combo and external speakers.

Which adapter are you using from your computer currently? The normal input jack on an amp (usually) takes a 1/4" TS (mono) cable in, so your adapter might be a 3.5mm TRS (stereo) male -> 1/4" TRS female cable.

What you really want is the stereo signal from your computer's mini jack to be split into two 1/4" male jacks.

If you have the adapter as I described above, you can use the cable you listed to go into the aux in on the amp. That's what I would do. Alternatively, if you have a different adapter (like 3.5" male-> 1/4" male, which wouldn't plug into the one you listed), you could use this cable instead:

Keep in mind that your amp cabinet has two 12" speakers and there's no tweeter to handle high frequencies. You're going to get a low-range response and the drums (particularly the hi-hat) are going to sound muffled no matter what.

u/DrunkieMunkie · 3 pointsr/Twitch

Hola! I set all this up last year so it’s a bit rusty!

This is a shopping list for an Xbox One mixer setup similar to mine and you may need some help filling in a few gaps and the wiring!

So the idea is to build a setup to be able to use an awesome mic to talk to the stream as well as party chat ‘at the same time’ (which I prefer over using a headset) but to also be able to hear game/chat/PC audio though a single pair of headphones and control their volume levels in one place with ease.

I don't need sound going out to my PC as the Cap card is getting that from the Console via HDMI.
Streaming Xbox to PC then the WORLD!

Xbox – hdmi into a cap card in the PC Avermedia live gamer hd
This grabs the game audio and that’s that bit done, stream using OBS and boom!

Here's is my shopping list for party chat:

Headset Buddy (Real name, I didn’t make that up!)

Xbox Chat Thing:

Cable from Buddy to Mixer:

Cable from Mixer to Buddy!

Xbox Mixer(s)

Astro Mixamp (I use)

Earforce DSS (an option!)

Ground Loop things:

Although I have used these ones because I didn’t see the ones above!

Mic wise any XLR mic is fine!

Here is a link to a image i found that kinda helps piece it all together!

Here is a quick vid of my setup, happy to help if i can!

Heres is my latest Xbox One vid with party chat but it picks up the Public Lobby if they speak!


u/emorello · 3 pointsr/synthesizers

I have the JX-8P and Juno106, which were pretty similar to the JX-3p and the stereo out is for their chorus effect (slight movement between the channels). In the originals, if you didn't want stereo, you could just plug in a 1/4" into the left and it would work just fine, chorus and all, then you can plug into whatever guitar pedals. I guess you could do the same by getting a Stereo Breakout, 3.5 mm TRS to Dual 1/4 in TS.

u/Lincolnton · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

If you don't mind swapping the 3.5mm plug to whatever device you are using something like this will work

u/MonsterEgg · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

If your phone has a regular headphone jack, all you need is this type of cable. Rip the red and black 1/4 plugs apart as much as you need, plug the red into the right speaker and the black into the left, and the other end into your phone.

u/AstronautMike_Dexter · 3 pointsr/audio

Male 1/8" TRS (mini jack) to Dual Male 1/4" TRS cable. Like this one.

If you wanted to go a higher fidelity route than this one, I would use a DAC (digital to analog converter) like the Nuforce uDAC with a USB cable from the computer to the DAC and single RCA cables going from the DAC to each speaker.

u/_V_H_S_ · 3 pointsr/synthesizers

Your mixer is most likely a mono input. When I had my volcas, I used this cable:
You just need one of the 1/4" end into your mixer.

u/portezbie · 3 pointsr/hometheater

Hi, I actually had the exact same dilemma as you and about a month ago went for a 2.0 setup.

In the past I've tried a variety of computer speakers and nothing cut it. I never tried a soundbar, but I am super happy with my 2.0 setup.

So here is my $200 set up (big thanks to Zeos for helping me learn and pick out the parts):

$109 manufacturer refurbished Denon AVR 1513 receiver:!specifications

$80 Micca MB42x bookshelf speakers:

$9.43 Speaker wire:

This is the wire stripper I bought but it is no longer available for prime so I would get a different one:

Maybe get this one (but any will probably be fine):

Lastly, banana plugs for the wires. Optional, but nice to have ($10.96):

Total: ~ $250 with tax and shipping and whatnot.

One last piece of advice:

I originally tried the popular Lepai amp and hated it. I just couldn't get the volume I wanted from it.

u/piratenovelist · 3 pointsr/ToolBand

I am going to be using this article plus my own personal experiences in the 7 years I have been collecting:

Turntable: Audio-Technica ATLP120USB Direct Drive Professional USB Turntable Price $229.00 (On Sale at the time of this writing) it comes with a built in Pre-Amp so you are good to go. This is one I have been eyeballing myself.

Amplifier: Yamaha R-S202BL Stereo Receiver Price $149.95 (On sale at the time I am writing this). This is the one I personally use and I love it. It has multiple channels so you can allow for growth. For example I got a stereo cd player at the local thrift store I am trying to upgrade. I just need RCA Cables to hook it up which I do.

Speakers: Price $49.98 (Sale at the time I am writing this)

Wire from speakers to Amp: AmazonBasics 100ft 16-Gauge Audio Stereo Speaker Wire Cable - 100 Feet Price $13.49

Headphone Adapter (Trust me you'll need this if you want to listen to music via headphones) Adapter Price: $7.99

Subtotal: $450.41‬ plus taxes. I think you have wiggle room on the speakers, but I searched for high rated ones. If you need help setting up your Turntable and Stereo please feel free to reach out and I can help! :D

u/wgboyd · 3 pointsr/vinyl

IMO in your home, it doesn't really matter. If you're running like 200 feet, then maybe it would be an minor issue. Everyone overthinks this crap for what, a $200 pair of speakers? If you've spent $14,000 on speakers, then sure analyze the hell out of it, otherwise you'll never tell the difference. If you crack your speaker open you're going to find (assuming there's a crossover) plenty of wiring that's far thinner than speaker wire. I buy this 16g from Amazon and have no issues at all with it.

u/capacitors · 3 pointsr/vintageaudio

Okay, you need some speaker wire (I'd recommend 16 gauge 50 or 100 feet like this) and some RCA cables. You can probably find decent cheap RCA cables at a thrift store.

Connect the turntable RCA plugs to the PHONO input jacks on the back of the receiver and connect the ground wire to the SIGNAL GND screw beneath the PHONO jacks. The white plug is left channel and the red one is right channel. Similarly, connect the CD player with an RCA cable from the OUT jacks on the back of the CD player to the CD IN jacks on the back of the receiver. CD players don't require a ground wire.

Cut some equal lengths of speaker wire and strip about 1/2" of the plastic insulator from both ends like this. Connect the stripped part of the wire with the white stripe to the FRONT SPEAKERS red clip on the back of your receiver, and the wire without a stripe to the black clip. Connect these wires to two of the small speakers. Make sure to connect white stripe to red clip and no stripe to black clip on the backs of the speakers. You should have sound now left and right.

You can connect the other two small speakers to the SURROUND SPEAKERS clips if you want to, but those are primarily used for movies.

What does the back of your sub-woofer look like?

Edit: Here is a link to the manual

u/oddsnsodds · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Those are passive speakers requiring separate amplification, which the Mac doesn't provide.

You could use something like the SMSL SA-50. (I need to make a macro for that sentence.):

A cable like this from the Mac to the amp:

Speaker wire from the amp to the speakers:

u/jackholexxxx · 3 pointsr/vinyl

The turntable has a built-in preamp, so you do not need one. You will however need a receiver and speaker wire.

Or you can return the speakers and get a set of powered monitors. The powered monitors could be connected directly to the turntable. You will have to adjust the volume using the controls on the speakers.

u/Freezerburn · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Yep Schhiit dac and amp are fantastic and the HE400 is as well. Can't go wrong with that combo!

Schitt Modi

Hifiman HE-400

Getting into magnetic planar speakers will get you into a whole other class of audio.

Magnetic planar speakers love power so a Magni wouldn't be bad either but that's over the $500 mark but it's not really required. Also the modi have rca outputs so you'll need something like this

EDIT:Skip the modi and just get a Fiio E10 Sorry screwed up on the dac deal but the HE-400 is still worthy by and the Fiio E10 will perform as a good dac and amp.

I agree with pagonda, I'd return them.

u/squidwalk · 3 pointsr/PS3

The old-fashioned idea is for you to employ a 2 x RCA Male / 1 x 3.5mm Stereo Female, so you can take your stereo sound and plug some headphones into it. It seems like your TV doesn't have any proper audio out for it, so you'll have to use ones straight from the PS3.

u/Shirkaday · 3 pointsr/SoundSystem

Yeah you would need two mono rca splits. You'd just split both the red and the white at the controller, now you have 2 stereo outputs, and connect to the speakers as usual.

Edit: or just get one of these joints ...

Same thing as a split but with a longer cable already attached.

u/SatansF4TE · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Upgrading the Modi wouldn't, but upgrading the Magni would - the Magni 2 Uber has a pre-amp output.
Essentially this just passes the input from your Modi through the Magni's volume control without amplifying it, when there's no headphones connected. With headphones connected of course, the input is amplified and sent to them. Again, the pre-out is RCA so the same cables as above if you chose that. Bear in mind this only works with either speakers or headphones at once, if you want to output to both at once you'd want a simple RCA splitter.

Again, neither is necessary since the Windows volume control is an option, but it's much easier.

RE speaker stands: Mostly comes down to preference and their looks. These are inexpensive and should fit / be strong enough for the LSR308.

Component order should look like this:

Computer -> Modi -> Sys -> Speakers OR Magni
Optional Second Source ^

If you're regularly swapping between the two, you could connect both at once using a splitter or switch box. Otherwise, those cables look good.

u/wondroushippo · 3 pointsr/headphones

Totally possible. Pick up a couple of RCA splitters, or something like this:

u/Mikerrrrrrrr · 3 pointsr/xbox360

I have this setup, i.e. I'm using a monitor with only DVI input and outputting audio through my PC speakers. Here's what I do.

I use an HDMI cable with an HDMI-to-DVI adapter for video.

For audio, well, it's a bit more complicated. I use the Xbox's composite cable for audio, but first, you'll need this adapter. Now that gives us a standard 3.5 mm cable.

If you just want to use standalone speakers (or headphones), buy this adapter and plug your speakers/headphones into it.

If your speakers, like mine, are hooked up to your PC, plug the cable from the RCA adapter (first one I mentioned) into the line in, then have Windows "listen to this device" -- it's in the Sound control panel.

The trickiest part is getting both the HDMI and composite cables plugged into your Xbox, as the composite cable has a stupid ass tab to it that prevents both it and the HDMI cable from being plugged in. I had to resort to ripping the plastic casing off of the composite cable, which is probably your best bet.

Let me know if you have any questions.

u/Killericon · 3 pointsr/patientgamers

No worries! Just plug the yellow into the one that leads to the monitor, and then the white/red into the speaker one(even though the monitor one has white/red, just ignore it).

PS I messed up. Instead of the second one, get this:

u/Rocko9999 · 3 pointsr/headphones

Yep. You need this.

Use headphone out on the back of your PC into the AUX port on the receiver. Start with the PC volume low and the receiver volume low.

u/rcmaehl · 3 pointsr/techsupport

PC: Green Audio Out 3.5mm Port -> Surround System: Audio In
You'll need the right cable for it though. Example

However, that might only be standard audio.
(I never messed with out style audio, I just use ToSLink for my audio.)

u/porksandwich9113 · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

So the magni 3 has rca inputs.

So my set up is computer --> optical --> smsl 793 dac --> rca --> magni 3 --> headphones.

The smsl 793 is actually a dac/amp combo but I found it underwhelming with my 6XX, luckily it has a line out if you only want to use the dac portion. I've had it for years but they were only pushing 32 and 80 ohm headphones before and would really struggle to reach listening volume with 300ohms.

However a dac is not necessary. You could very easily take the 3.5mm jack into a split rca into the magni, then hook your headphones to that. You'd just need this cable between your pc and the amp.

Many people recommend a dac simply because it can make an improvement in sound, will help avoid electrical interference since the signal is over USB or SPDIF (Coax & Optical), and can help if you have a noise floor issue (hiss) and jitter.

Most modern dacs in computers are fairly decent, and the the built in amps are not terrible for headphones up to 32-80 ohm range. But once you get into those high ohm, you have to get an amp.

u/Ironcleric · 3 pointsr/xboxone

I think you nailed it.... I'd bet that's a headphone output port on the stereo system... most stereos use L/R (red and white plugs) RCA jacks for audio input... try those stereo ports in the back with a 3.5mm to (L/R) RCA cable...

This cable

Edit: Easy test with zero monies spent... cut the stereos fm radio on and plug headphone in... if you get audio out of the headphones it's an output jack.

u/TeamTaeyeon · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

For cords/wires you will need a RCA to 3.5mm cable something like this to connect your amp to your pc. You will also need 3 speaker cables such as these 1 for your amp to sub and assuming your sub will have a high level input and output, you will connect the other 2 cables to the sub and out to the speakers.

You could also make your own speaker cables as well which is a little cheaper by using this

For sub wise, I would consider a Dayton audio sub 800 or 1000 as a start.

u/ZeosPantera · 3 pointsr/Zeos

You really can't use that AMP-100 to power headphones but you do have the choice to run the headphones directly from the UCA202 DAC or pass the signal to any of the FiiO Headphone amplifiers with one of these cables.

u/Kaligraphic · 3 pointsr/audioengineering

You have a balanced XLR input and it's only playing the difference between the left and right channels. You're playing a track that has the instruments panned left and right, and the vocals relatively centered.

First, what you want is something more along the lines of this 1/8" to 1/4" breakout cable. If you have a free stereo channel, plug both 1/4" plugs into there, otherwise just plug it into two adjacent mono channels, pan them all the way left and right, and adjust them together.

Second, you should know that most mixers can supply 48V on their XLR inputs. Condenser microphones need that, dynamic mics don't care, but laptop audio ports can fry. 1/4" jacks are safe, though, so always prefer them above XLR for computer/phone/iPod type input.

u/AkwardImplants · 3 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

It will be easy to find out. Plug your headphones into the female end. Plug one of the two male plugs into your keyboard and play something. If you only hear sound in one ear, you're good to go.

If you want to go dual 1/4" male into a single stereo male mini plug, you can buy that cable here.

Keep in mind that depending of the quality of your keyboard's internal grounding circuitry, you could get some hum and/or phase issues, but probably shouldn't have any problems.

u/Ruairi101 · 3 pointsr/audio

Yamaha HS monitors have 1/4inch TRS and XLR inputs (no RCA as far as I know), so if you wanted to use them with a desktop without any/minimal extra hardware, you could get a 3.5mm to dual 1/4 inch cable (like this); 3.5mm goes into your computer's headphone jack, 1/4 inches go into the monitors.

Someone else can probably give better advice on whether or not to buy a DAC/interface. I use HS7s and I plug them into a Scarlett 2i2, which has 1/4 inch monitor outs. There's also a 1/4 inch headphone jack with separate volume knobs, so I can switch between monitors and headphones without much fuss. I'm pretty happy with that setup, but a 2i2 might be overkill just for that alone (I use it for recording from XLR mics as well, that's its main purpose).

If you're using a USB headset, you can keep them plugged in for both of the above approaches and switch audio devices via your OS when you need them.

u/HoustonWHOO · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Gotcha, so something like this then?

Thanks for the quick reply!

u/tyrannosaurus_wrex · 3 pointsr/audiophile

I think there is a tech support thought is that your 3.5mm to dual 3.5mm is splitting the stereo signal into two separate stereo signals (like for plugging in two sets of headphones for two people to listen at the same time). You want something that splits the stereo signal into separate left and right to go into your speakers, or just a cable like this.

u/salnajjar · 3 pointsr/karaoke

You're going to need a mixer, to take the audio from the microphones and the karaoke backing track and then put out the final version (also some people sing louder than others so you'll need to be able to adjust individual volumes).
This means you'll also need an amplifier, as most TV's don't have an audio in connection.
This means you'll also need speakers.

You could look at getting some decent amplified speakers, you only need one if you're doing this in a home.

Lastly, look into something like Karafun initially as the software. You can take out a 48 hour subscription for about £5 and then you have access to all their songs. Just read about no internet at farm, not even wireless data that you can tether via mobile phone?

So to recap, you need to purchase:

u/KnockKnockComeIn · 3 pointsr/Logic_Studio

To send/receive MIDI you need MIDI to USB interface.

To receive audio signal you need dual 1/4 TS cable to 1/8” TRS cable.

Option1: Money is not an issue:

OP you’re best bet would be a audio interface as it allows you to connect your keyboard plus so much more.

Something like this:

And midi cables and TS cables

Option 2: Money is an issue/not ready to for a audio interface:

MIDI to USB built into MIDI cable:

1/4 TS to 1/8 TRS:

u/justanotherdickweed · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Buy 14 or 16 AWG. It's just standard every day speaker wire you need. Nothing special. 18 would be fine too if you've already got it. If not, this is good.

If you're after fancy looking stuff, I just picked up a set of these. and they are beautiful.

u/DieselWang · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Amazon Basics ( and Monoprice ( make good, cheap speaker wire.

Good choice on the speaker. Those Chanes are amazing values: The tower version also won a shootout among $1000 speakers with some formidable opposition.

The next step down for subwoofers is the NXG BAS 500 (IMO the best subwoofer under $300): review here:

However, they sell like hot cakes and they're out of stock everywhere (Radioshack and Amazon are out of them). No idea when they'll come back into stock.

A good option for less than $200 is the BIC F12 and will save you some money:

u/ballpein · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Get yourself a nice little Amp like an SMSL SA-50, a 3.5mm aux cable to connect your TV's headphone out to the amp, and some 16 gauge speaker wire to connect amp to speakers. Bob's your uncle.

IF money is type, you can go with a cheaper amp, but the first one I mentioned is nicer unit that you can keep when you upgrade to a TV with an optical out.

u/explosivo563 · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Smsl amp ($52). If you REALLY want to go cheap you can get search for a lepai amp on amazon. Easily distorts but it works on the tightest of budgets.

Dayton speakers ($50.) (Lesser regular b652 for only $30)

Speaker wire ($11)

Then you will need an rca cable and a way to strip the wire. Most people have one lying around but they can easily be found at any local store. This will crush a pc speaker setup and you will have much more fun. The sidebar has additional options you need to check out too. I'm not sure what will be affected by you being in the UK.

u/Umlautica · 3 pointsr/diyaudio

The good news is that everything is already wired for sound, the bad news is that you'll need to buy amp(s) in order to use the speakers. The cable that you're holding up is RCA and is not powerful enough to drive a speaker. You'll need something like a multi-zone amp for 6 channels if you want to use all of the speakers in the house. These are ambient house speakers and not speakers set up for a home theater though right?

An option that might work well if you like Chromecast is to buy two or three pairs of this SMSL SA50 amps with the Chromecast Audio devices. This would also allow you to control multiple zones for music using each Chromecast audio. Each Chromecast Audio connects with each amp using a 3.5mm to RCA cable and then each SMSL amp connects to the gold terminals on the wall using speaker cable.

u/Beer_Is_So_Awesome · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile


A friend of mine recently bought the Dayton B652-AIR, which sound phenomenal for the price. They're on sale right now for $50 from Parts Express. I haven't heard the basic B652, but the reviews seem to indicate that the AIR models are worth the extra money. They have a better crossover (internal circuitry) and an upgraded tweeter that's supposed to provide smoother treble and more clarity.

Second, you're going to need an amplifier to drive those speakers. Your previous system had a built-in amp. I recommend this little guy which is a barebones amplifier that produces nice clean sound and has a very small footprint and a reasonable price.

It won't amplify your headphones, though.

Something like this receiver would cover all your bases-- provide power to your speakers and your headphones as well.

If I were you, I'd just use an analog cable to attach my source (computer?) to the receiver.

Oh, and you'll need some speaker cable to connect the speakers to the receiver.

u/x152 · 3 pointsr/AskBattlestations

You will need an amplifier like this.

That cable is fine, but there are cheaper alternatives on amazon (amazon basics wire I recommend for starters).

You need to hook up your PC to the amplifier through RCA or 3.5mm jack. Then hook up the speaker wire to your speakers.

u/EinTheVariance · 3 pointsr/headphones

it looks like the GSX1000 has a "speaker out" which I believe is a line out based on spec sheet:

So you should use that to line out to the magni 3 via a 3.5mm to RCA cable (like this: That way you won't be double amping.

u/Kerry56 · 3 pointsr/headphones

By the way, you could use the E10k as a DAC alone, and output to a more powerful amp, like the Magni 2. Might save some cash.

Use a 3.5mm plug in the line out, on the back of the E10k and you'll need RCA plugs on the other end of the cable. Like this Monoprice cable.

u/ImaginaryCheetah · 3 pointsr/hometheater

>Wharfedale modus cube series 2

apparently 75watts RMS @ 6ohm. so your amp will need to handle 6ohm loads.


would get you there. using the headphone output from the back of the TV.

or, as others have said, you can get a used amp for cheap at places like goodwill.

u/Shake_Oh · 3 pointsr/microphones

I see in the comments below that you've already returned it, if you are willing to use a mixer the setup I would recommend to start would be:

Behringer Xm8500


XLR Cable

Behringer Xenyx 502

RCA to 3.5mm

All this is less than $80.

A stand like this would work well, and it is still below $100.

Here is a sound sample I found on YouTube.

Once you have more money to play around with for dynamic microphones look into: Shure SM58, Shure Beta 58, and the EV ND767A. These will run you roughly $100-$150.

Once you have a use case for condenser microphones look into: AT2020, Samson C02 Pair, and MXL 770. All of these will run you roughly $100, however if you went with the Samson C02s you would need more inputs and therefore a different mixer.

u/X019 · 3 pointsr/GoForGold

Looks like that takes aux(3.5mm) , SD card and 1/4 inch, so you've got options.

Here's a CD player

u/ByGollie · 3 pointsr/ITdept

....and going old school - an aux cable from the headphone jack into the microphone jack on your PC, then use Audacity to save it as a WAV file

(WAV files are uncompressed with no quality lost)

Like the other posters in this thread have said- the legality of recording this, or if the recording is legally acceptable in a court case is something for the company lawyer to decide on.

u/Jeritens · 3 pointsr/piano

A simple way, a solution I am using is connecting the piano headphone audio output to your computer audio input with a male to male audio aux cable and then set up audio playback in your sound settings

Now you are able to listen to the piano and computer sound with your default pc audio output. If you set the audio input you used for your piano in discord, your friends can listen to the piano and you can hear their reactions. But because the piano is a different audio input you can't talk to them and you have to switch your audio input back to your mic to talk to them again.

If you get a lot of static noise while the piano is connected it very likely that a ground loop noise isolator will help. (I use a ground loop isolator and I have a roland fp 10. I still get static noise only when the piano is turned off because the power cable is still plugged in. I usually mute the sound in the volume mixer on my pc)

I used this setup to play the audio from my nintendo switch through the pc and listen to both my pc sound(mainly discord while playing smash) and switch sound on my headphones.

To go even further you can install a virtual audio cable and route your mic and piano audio through the same audio line and playback this audio source to listen to the piano through your default audio output. A big drawback I noticed is that the music is very delayed this way and you hear your voice delayed which is messing with your brain a lot.

I hope that helped. I'm sure there are other solutions with audio interfaces, audio mixers or with midi. This is just a cheap solution which works for me.

u/funtech · 3 pointsr/piano

Yes, so the easiest thing you could do to hear both at the same time is connect the headphone jack on the piano to the audio input on your MacBook (depending on year, this might be a separate plug, or it might be the same as the headphone plug). You'd use something like this:

The Mac should automatically send the input from the piano to the speakers on your Mac (if it doesn't you may have the output muted, you can change this in the sound system preference on the "input" tab. Make sure the device isn't set to microphone, but to line in, and the output isn't muted at the bottom.)

Now the cool thing is you can play garage band and you should hear both the piano and garage band coming out of the speakers on your Mac. Since you probably don't want to listen to it all through your tiny Mac speakers, you could then plug some nice amplified external speakers in to the headphone jack of your Mac. This should do what you want!

u/Elnrik · 3 pointsr/headphones

Uhhh... Maybe.

I'd go with something like this...

u/olbaze · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

The Kraken Pro has a 3.5mm combojack, usually found in cellphones and laptops. You'll need a splitter for your PC. Something like this.

u/-A_V- · 3 pointsr/xboxone

HyperX Cloud Stinger

Steel Series Flux

And this cable

I have both and use them pretty interchangeably. Don't let the price $25 fool you on the Flux. It is an excellent headset (

u/iritegood · 3 pointsr/DealsReddit

The description is wrong. The PS4 uses a 4pole 3.5mm connector. To use the headset with a PC just get a splitter

u/Cocoapebble755 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Is this what you are looking for?

Maeline 3.5mm Female to 2 Male Gold Plated Headphone Mic Audio Y Splitter Flat Cable

u/sinlightened · 3 pointsr/sony

Yeah.. there are adapters to turn the single aux on your headphones into 2 separate mic/headphone connectors.

You need something like this

u/neomancr · 3 pointsr/GalaxyS7

You actually have one of the best android devices for that second to the LG v20. It supports Bluetooth and USB microphones. Otherwise get a splitter like this

Go to the galaxy apps store and get the stock voice recorder it works great. It'll record with dynamic gain so no matter how loud it still won't distort. You can scream into it and it'll sound fine. It's amazing.

There are also great Samsung pro audio solutions too that'll let you do professional 24 bit recordings with live processing

u/agent_of_entropy · 3 pointsr/techsupport

You need one of these.

u/tumescent4science · 3 pointsr/hometheater

It looks like that particular model of receiver is audio only. I don't see any optical connections so analog RCA is the only way to go. The Sony TV should have a headphone output along the side. The red and white input on the receiver will need to connect to that headphone connecter on the TV. This will require a cable such as this:

To really take advantage of digital audio, you would need to upgrade the receiver.

Edit: I see that you tried the RCA connection from the TV to the receiver. The composite connections on the TV are going to be audio IN. Not OUT. The headphone port on the TV will be the only way to send audio out to that receiver. Without HDMI or optical capability on the receiver, this tends to get complicated.

u/Johnlemonx · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

You need one of these then

But the better option for you is getting a set of powered speakers.

u/Ghost_Pack · 3 pointsr/audio

First double check that your PC doesn't have a combo jack (3.5mm analog and 3.5mm optical in the same port). a lot of modern PCs (especially macs) have this and if that's the case this is your best bet for audio. This is what you'd want.


If you're using HDMI output (especially if you're using a receiver or multiple HDMI inputs), something like this is a good choice.


If not, your next best bet is a internal soundcard with optical output (like this one) if it's a desktop, or an external USB soundcard with an optical output if it's a laptop (like this one).


If neither of these work, and/or you're on a device that only has a 3.5mm analog output and nothing else, you can use one of these with one of these adapters. It's known as an analog to digital converter (ADC) and will take in analog (RCA/3.5mm) and convert it to a digital format like optical. This isn't super recommended, as it add extra conversion steps to the process and will reduce the sound quality of your soundbar somewhat unless you pay out extra money for a high quality professional ADC.

u/covertash · 3 pointsr/headphones

Connect a cable like the following (3.5 mm to RCA) from your motherboard's line out to the Magni 2:

Max out the volume in Windows, and then use the Magni 2's knob to adjust the volume up and down, going forward.

u/SnowblindAlbino · 3 pointsr/cassettes

It's easy: get a cassette deck if you don't already have one, then a stereo cable with a 3.5MM plug on one end and two RCA plugs on the other, like this. Connect your phone to the input jacks on the deck, play your music (Spotify, etc.) at about 80% volume, and set the record level on the deck so the peaks are at 0db and make a test recording. If it sounds OK to you on playback (no obvious distortion) then you're good: make those playlists and start cranking out tapes.

If your files are on a PC/laptop (rather than a phone) and you don't want to transfer them the process is still the same-- just plug that 3.5mm plug into your headphone jack on the computer.

u/jstbuch · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

And output is exactly that. It outputs sound. Your Chromecast needs an INPUT because it is sending sound IN to your receiver. You need a 3.5mm to RCA adapter cable. Something like this:

You can pick on up at radioshack or wal mart.

Then you plug the 3.5mm end into your Chromecast and the RCA ends into your CD or DVD inputs that show in your folder.

u/Hipp013 · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

College kid here, I'll try to help out.

It's generally recommended that you don't ever go for a HTIAB (home theater in a box) as they come with super shitty components and most often don't leave room to upgrade.

You'll get more flexibility and bang for your buck with bookshelves and a sub, but as you mentioned you only want a 2.0 for right now. If bass is really that important to you, I would actually recommend you get a pair of bookshelves now and invest in a sub later on. Towers are great but for a 2.0 setup you're going to want something smaller with better sound quality.



Bookshelves: used Polk Signature S15's

>Top listing is $165 for like new speakers; S15's run for $229/pair new.

This listing in particular says "Speakers only, nothing else is included" which is odd for them to mention because I don't think these speakers normally come with any accessories. Maybe he's talking about the manual which can easily be found online. But who needs manuals anyway?


Amp: SMSL SA-50

>Price fluctuates between $63 and $69. This listing is $63.

Puts out 50 wpc, will power pretty much any speaker you throw at it. I owned this myself and recommend it for a first setup. Just keep in mind you will have to upgrade to a surround receiver if you ever want to move past 2.1 in the future.



This puts you at $228 shipped. A bit above your absolute max of $200, but this is probably your best bet. You're also going to need to buy some speaker wire. It's only like $8.

So in total, this comes to $236 shipped. A bit above your budget, but it leaves you with some kickass bookshelves as well as the ability to add a sub in the future.

u/dr3amsINdigital · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

You'll need an amplifier, copper speaker wire, and a cable to attach to your computer (typically 3.5 mm to RCA). Typically, you need to buy things separately.

u/mack_k · 3 pointsr/barstoolsports

Yup. I run mine with a Marshall Stanmore and no receiver, works great. As long as your speaker is wired or has RCA ports and is powered, you'll be fine.

If you go the RCA route like I did, I recommend upgrading your cables. The ones that come with the RT81 kind of suck. I just got Amazon Basics ones and they're much better.

Amazon link

u/G65434-2_II · 3 pointsr/headphones

Since the audio inputs on the Magni are RCAs and the line outs on the Focusrite 1/4 inch, you'll need a dual quarter inch to dual RCA interconnect, like this one.

Your setup will be like this:

PC --(usb)-->2i2--(1/4″-to-RCA)-->Magni 2-->HD 600

(and rule #3)

u/WestonParish · 3 pointsr/Beatmatch

Depending on the inputs on the amp, you can use either:

1/4" TRS to Stereo RCA cable

Dual 1/4" TRS to RCA cable

Balanced inputs accept unbalanced signals, and you shouldn't notice any difference. The benefit of balanced signals and appropriate cables allows less interference over long distances. Much longer than you will probably be using. Studio/home and even small event usage is totally fine.

My personal setup on my production desk includes using a Traktor Audio 6 soundcard as an output (unbalanced) to my monitors' balanced XLR inputs using RCA -> XLR cables. I have no issues

u/crossedx · 3 pointsr/Beatmatch

You need an amp to run between passive (non self-powered) speakers and the output source (controller). You didn't specify the speakers, but I would imagine they are passive since they have 1/4" TS connections... usually active speakers (self powered) have XLR inputs and sometimes additionally, have RCA and a mic input.

If, somehow, your speakers are active you'll just need this cord or this adapter, but I really would expect you need an amp. Having no idea what speakers you have, but knowing the next question will probably be what amp should you get, I'll just go ahead and put this here: Behringer Inuke. This is a budget amp, but it does a fairly good job. I have one running some subs and have zero complaints. If you end up needing more power, just look for the bigger versions.

u/GothamCountySheriff · 3 pointsr/vinyl

I'm glad this question came up! I just found out about the perfect piece of kit that solves your problem and ones that you didn't even ask about.

First, in order to connect from any phono preamp's RCA connection the 1/4" input of your monitors you will need a mono-RCA-to-mono-1/4" cable. Like this:

Now you will need a phono preamp. Normally I recommend the ART DJ Pre II. It's a very good, affordable phono preamp that offers great performance, especially for its price bracket. It's the preamp I currently use. Before I settled on the DJ Pre II, I tested a number of phono pre's, including the Behringer you linked to and another popular budget pre, the TCC TC-750.

The difference between the Behringer and the other two was apparent and immediately noticeable. The Berhringer was more veiled and less dynamic than the other two. When comparing the ART and the TCC models, I thought the DJ Pre II was more neutral and a bit clearer than the TC-750. But is wasn't the very obvious difference between it and the Behringer. It was more degrees of subtlety.

So why don't i think you should get the DJ Pre II? Convenience. TCC makes another phono preamp model, the TCC TC-754. Not only is it a phono preamp, but it also includes a volume attenuator (control) and four-input audio switcher. Why are these important? The volume control for your monitors is on the back of the unit. With the TC-754 you can use the volume control on the unit to adjust it with ease. And the input selector will allow you to not only hook your turntable up, but also MP3, CD, computer or what have you and switch between them. Otherwise you would need to remove the RCA from the standalone phono preamp every time you wanted to use a different source.

While I personally haven't used it, I have used the TC-750 which its phono pre is based on. I think it would be a very good solution for hooking a turntable to your monitors.

u/cmfreeman · 3 pointsr/DJs

This will work.

Hosa CPR-201 Dual 1/4" TS to Dual RCA Stereo Interconnect Cable, 1 Meter

u/MrEleventy · 3 pointsr/headphones

You'd need these. And to set the JBL's input sensitivity to -10 for unbalanced inputs.

u/KidFirstContact · 3 pointsr/cassetteculture

I have a Scarlett 2i2 and have done this very thing. Here’s what you need:

  1. Something from your line out that splits into a right and left - either regular phono plugs that you can attach a TS adapter to (

    or something that ends in 2 TS male plugs. Whether you’re coming from 3.5mm or phono you can find a cable for it:

u/poochzag · 3 pointsr/headphones

Best way to do this is use your Magni 2 uber as a preamp. So connect RCA to TRS cables (or RCA cables with TRS adapter) from the Magni 2 preamp outs, to your JBL LSR305's

RCA to TRS example:

TRS adapter if you already have RCA to RCA cable:

I used those adapters for my JBL LSR305's because I already had an RCA cable laying around. You'll be able to control volume with your magni 2 volume knob

Edit: spelling

u/paintwalls · 3 pointsr/synthesizers

Would having two sets of these be the right solution? Nord -> KP3 -> monitors

u/IwNnarock · 3 pointsr/AskEngineers

Are you referring to using composite/RCA cables to connect the ps2 wiki link? If I recall correctly, my ps2 had the option of using either composite video or component video wiki link.

In either case, the audio portion was always carried through the red and white cables as an analog signal. This means it's the raw waveform, no special protocol. If you have a receiver that accepts this cable, you're good to go. Otherwise, if you have a pair of computer speakers, you could use an adapter as follows to hook them together amazon link.

Admittedly, this is not my field, and I'm solely speaking as a consumer who's messed around with this stuff.

u/skankingrove · 3 pointsr/snes

Hey, so I looked into it a bit more to try to remember how I had everything set up when I was using my monitor. All the digital video converters I am seeing online are more expensive than I remember them being.

Anyway, this is the one that I got. Of course vga only puts out the video, so you need something else to get your sound going. For the sound part, I used something like this. One side accepts the SNES red/white cables and the other I plugged my computer speakers into whenever I played my SNES.

You may be able to find video converters cheaper than the one I linked but I didn't look very much this time around to see. Let me know if you have any luck.

u/Highfro · 3 pointsr/crtgaming

3.5mm Jack to 2-RCA Jacks Audio Adapter

You need something like this and you would connect your consoles audio cables right to the speakers

u/leeachim · 3 pointsr/PS3

You'll need something like this which will let you plug in headphones via the PS3's RCA cables. I'd also recommend getting a headphone amplifier too as the volume levels were a bit low IMO.

u/outlooker707 · 3 pointsr/xbox360




I'd also recommend the MDR-V6 if you can find it on sale.

Those are good choices for $50. Unfortunately you cannot plug headphones into the xbox 360 cotroller, only the xbox one. The cheapest way to connect them is to use this. You will have to plug in the audio cables to this connector and then plug your headphones into the other end.

This wont work if your friend only has an hdmi cable, there is another way to connect them but you will have to spend another $50 for an adapter. Still I bet your friend would appreciate a nice pair of headphones that they can use with all other devices.

u/Plazmunky · 3 pointsr/gamecollecting

You don't need the converter to handle your audio. If you're just connecting to speakers, convert the RCA plugs into the 3.5mm jack with a cheap, simple adapter cable. I can link you the specfic cable you need if you describe your audio setup more specifically.

If you're using headphones, you'll need a volume adjuster in addition to the cable:

Usually speakers have the 3.5mm male jack hanging off. If that's the case for you, this is the cable you need:

Speakers usually have some sort of headphone jack, use that if needed so you won't need the volume adjuster. That's only if you're plugging headphones directly into the console's plugs.

u/MagicShoe · 3 pointsr/xboxone

I've got nothing better to do so I'm going to put a lot of info here just incase anyone else comes across this thread with a similar problem. I'm assuming that you are switching back to a monitor which is why you're asking.
Connecting PC speakers to TV (Kinda pointless just saying)

[For RCA Output]


[For 3.5MM output]


[Connecting console to monitor with audio out on the same cable]

(HDMI to DVI with audio out)

||OR The Long Way||

You can mix these two adapters to get audio out and still use an hdmi cable by itself.

Using this:

Connect it to this:

(S/PDIF [Optical Out] to RCA)

THEN connect the female rca from that small box to this:

Then connect your speaker's 3.5mm male cable to the female 3.5mm cable.

u/4567890 · 3 pointsr/Android

A2DP is the name for steaming stereo Bluetooth audio. Android is setup as a sender of audio, not a receiver.

Your best bet would be to buy an A2DP receiver (like $50) and hook that up to your speaker system. They'll probably come with a 3.5mm jack but you can change that to RCA audio (the red/white plugs) with an adapter. You'll also want to get one that uses a power cord (usually usb) instead of batteries. I had a setup like this in my car, it worked great, like magic.

For instance:

A2PD Receiver (This is what I used, don't worry about the branding =P)

Mini USB power cord

3.5mm to RCA Audio Adapter (If you need it)

Total is ~$50

u/TheJon93 · 3 pointsr/letsplay

Headphones. plug these into the back of your tv, then you can plug in your headphones.

u/Shmutt · 3 pointsr/patientgamers

Hmm let me try later at home. I bought a Turtle Beach wireless headset recently. It's meant for PS3 and X360 but I've been only using it on my PC.


Just looked through the manual and Google. Yup, the PS3 cannot transmit game audio via bluetooth. My wireless headset has a unit that plugs into the PS3 via optical cable and then transmit it over the 5Ghz range.

There's also a simple male-to-female Y-converter if you don't want a female-to-female converter.

u/rivalarrival · 3 pointsr/DIY

like this?

Search for '3.5mm to RCA' for more options.

Edit: Changed the link to the female version of the adapter.

u/omers · 3 pointsr/Beatmatch

That sounds like a great setup to me. The DDJ-SB is fast becoming one of the main recommendations for those looking to go the Serato/Pioneer route and Sennheiser makes fantastic headphones with their iconic HD-25s being essentially an industry standard... While I've never used the HD6s I've seen good reviews and that blue is mighty sexy... :D

While computer speakers aren't the best for DJing they're better than nothing for practice at home. You'll need an adapter to go from the RCA master out on the DDJ-SB to the 1/8" TRS connector of the speakers though... This:

(You will of course also need a laptop or computer.)

u/Kennertron · 3 pointsr/rocksmith

You would probably want something like this RCA to headphone adapter then you can use any headphones you like.

I have a crappy pair of Behringer headphones I got with a practice amp kit I had bought early on in my guitar learnings, but here's some Sennheisers that look pretty nice.

Works with anything that has RCA audio out.

u/rickybobbyeverything · 3 pointsr/CarAV

if you're trying to connect a 3.5mm jack to RCA you can use an adapter:

u/theSalmon9 · 3 pointsr/audio

I don't actually have one of these subs, but I'm 99% sure you will not be able to use the sub to power the speaker outputs. The speaker level inputs/outputs are used to get a signal to the sub after it has already gone through an amplifier, and the sub's built-in amplifier is only used to power itself. You can definitely still use the sub by getting an adapter cable to run from the TVs 3.5mm output to the subs RCA Line In, but you will need to get some sort of amp/receiver for the bookshelf speakers. It doesn't have to be fancy, I've used small cheap amplifiers to power speakers and while it wasn't audiophile quality, it was definitely better than the TV speakers.

3.5mm to RCA cable

Small Amplifier I've used before

u/reggydavis · 3 pointsr/HeadphoneAdvice

Considering these are desktop devices, your iPhone won't be able to connect to the DAC, only to the AMP. The Modi 3 comes with a micro usb cable you can plug into your laptop.

Connecting the DAC to AMP

Connecting iPhone to AMP (headphone jack)

u/Archayor · 3 pointsr/headphones

Yes, this can easily be done.

You'll just connect your D30 and Atom like a normal DAC/Amp setup, and connect the RCA outs on the back of the Atom to the AUX input on the AD18. The Atom will automatically act as a pre-out once you unplug your headphones and route the input from your DAC through to the AD18, and you can use the volume wheel of the Atom to control the volume of your speakers as well.

So all you'll need to buy in addition to that is a dual-RCA to 3.5mm TRS cable (like this one)

u/APEvorbis2341 · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

You can get a 3.5m to dual rca male cable or 3.5mm to rca socket for easier splitting but need a rca male to male. Keep in mind to set your realtek driver to max power (differs for different drivers/software). Also a good motherboard is recommended like the modern alc1220 or even alc892-897). Ideally a high snr board (some low end boards are good like the msi tomahawk[except b450 ughh dont know why msi dumdbed it down:(] or mortar with high output for the codec they implemented by implementing good amps). You also need speaker wire or 2 premade speaker cable for sturdier and easier connection process

u/georgevapes · 3 pointsr/VHS

Those are RCA sockets at the bottom. Does your TV have similar RCA inputs for video and audio? If so you can use a cable like this to connect the two. Just plug the white plug into the video out and red into audio out on the VHS at one end, and at the other end, white into video and red into audio in on the TV.

If your tv only has HDMI you can get a RCA to HDMI like this.

And a RCA splitter like this

Your VHS only has single channel audio, so you need to plug the red and white plugs into the splitter, then the splitter into audio out. Then plug the yellow into video out and the HDMI into your tv.

u/TheDoctorHax · 3 pointsr/Beatmatch

The black and white cables are meant to go to the speakers as an output, so plugging them into your controller is doing the opposite of what you want. You need to get an RCA to RCA cable ( to connect the controller to the input of your subwoofer. The top 2 ports seem to be the inputs from the controller while the bottom 2 are the outputs to the speakers.

u/Shaomoki · 2 pointsr/ifyoulikeblank

Depending on your budget it could go from $60 for a pair of decent speakers, upwards to $1000 for a single speaker.

I would start here This is a good guide to speakers.

The speakers that I personally use are the Dayton Audio B652

As for a mini amp, then I use an Audioengine N22 for my stuff, which I connect from the laptop using a simple 3.5mm to Stereo RCA cable

If you're going directly to a subwoofer (which is probably a better option since you're also watching movies and you don't need the extra amp) then you'd still need that same y cable, but you'd be wiring it differently. The best sub that matches price with capability is probably made by Hsuresearch, Dayton Audio, and SVS.

There are many more brands out there, and it goes well into a deep hole.

u/AV3Nguyen · 2 pointsr/headphones

Yes, you need a DAC, but you can use the one built into your phone (or any device with a 3.5mm/headphone output). You'll need a 3.5mm to RCA cable like this (I'm assuming you're using the Massdrop version of the O2)

u/Justathrowawayoh · 2 pointsr/HeadphoneAdvice

Yes, you likely don't need a DAC.

You should be able to connect your computer directly to the magni 3 using RCA cables out of your motherboard. Or you can use a headphone out with a 3.5mm -> RCA adapter to connect to the magni 3.

With the JDS atom amp, you can put a 3.5mm (standard audio input) directly into the back from any device instead of having to deal with an adapter, etc.

u/QuintonFlynn · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

One of the speakers needs to be plugged into an outlet. That speaker is powered and has a built-in amplifier to drive the speakers. No need for a receiver or amplifier. Just plug directly into your source.

You will also need a cable like this to go from RCA to the stereo inputs.

u/MoogleMan3 · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

The 3.5mm goes to your source, right? And the RCA ends go to your speakers? The issue with male RCA ends is that the cable may have one of those nubs preventing the cables from splitting past a certain point. If it's just a 3.5mm to RCA cable you need, those are easy to find.

u/Zeeall · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Silly me, i forgot the JBLs do not have RCA inputs.

This cable to split the output from the source:


This cable for the speakers:

This cable for the subwoofer:

u/SteveTenants · 2 pointsr/vinyl

Ahhhh, I see what you mean. In that case, you should be totally fine if you pick up an RCA to 3.5mm converter, like this one:

So if you did pick up an AT LP5, you should be able to switch on the TT preamp, and run that cable straight from the TT to your speakers. I hope that helps! :-)

u/c0rbin9 · 2 pointsr/vintageaudio

Just FYI, you can hook this up to your computer or smartphone using the aux input and a cable like this:

Note, ultimate fidelity would be better with a dedicated DAC to connect computer/phone, but even using the adapter cable it will probably sound better than anything you've heard.

Just so you know you're not limited to playing vinyl records or something, which are fun but require a lot more commitment.

One more thing - this receiver is only going to sound as good as the speakers you connect. That doesn't mean expensive - there are plenty of vintage speakers in the $100-$150 range that will blow you away. Look for brands like EPI, Boston Acoustics, ADS, Dynaco, KLH, Advent, or just search "vintage speakers" on your local Facebook marketplace or Craigslist. This was a luxury item when new, and will offer a refined, sweet sound quality that is difficult to find in new equipment.

If you're space limited, I would recommend some smaller, newer NHT speakers or just using it as a headphone amp, which many people do, see vintage receiver thread.

If you decide to keep it, enjoy the beginning of your journey into high quality audio and more satisfying music listening. A MAC1700 is a rare and lucky find, my foray into vintage audio started similarly with finding my dad's old Sansui G-9000 in our attic.

u/StinkySocky · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

From what I can tell, you have an Apple Music subscription, which is the only streaming service that allows you to play music using Siri. In that case, you can buy a Bluetooth receiver, such as this one:

A lot of these seem to be made with batteries so they can work in cars, but I see no issue with just leaving it plugged into the charger.

Chromecast audio does not appear to have Bluetooth from what I can tell (although I don't own one, so if someone can say otherwise, please do.)

You could also do what I did and hook up an Amazon Echo Dot to your speakers. You won't be able to use Alexa to control Apple Music, but you can say "Alexa, connect my phone" and then play it over Bluetooth. I bought a used one with zero scratches or anything like that for $30 and I couldn't be happier.

You'll also probably need a 3.5mm to RCA adapter, like this one:

Hope this helps, just reply if you have any questions. :)

Edit: also I just noticed the thing in your post about the Charge 3, I have a UE Boom and it wouldn't let me do something like that, so I doubt the charge 3 would either.

u/rtdzign · 2 pointsr/neogeo

You can just use a plain headphone to Stereo RCA (Red, White) cable and plug one end to the neo geo and the pair, plug that into the TV. Then you only plug in the yellow cable from the AV out and leave the extra Mono out put hanging.

u/photes384 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Looks like your best bet would be to take the headphone 1/8” out and run that into the Sherwood using an 1/8” male to rca “y” male cable.

AmazonBasics 3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter Audio Stereo Cable - 8 Feet

u/mjconns · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I'll give this route a go, thank you!

u/ironfixxxer · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Pretty much all motherboards have built in sound. Just plug this into your green headphone jack on the back of the PC and the red/white RCA to your receiver input.

u/canuckaway_mcthrow · 2 pointsr/audio

Those are what are called "passive" speakers; they need an amplifier.

You'll also need some speaker wire and a 3.5 mm TRS to stereo RCA cable.

Use the TRS-to-RCA cable to connect the computer's "audio out" to the amplifier's "line in", and use the speaker wire to connect the speakers to the amplifier.

u/mr_manalishi · 2 pointsr/audio

In other words.

Turntable -> preamp -> amp/receiver -> speakers

Digital -> amp/receiver -> speakers

Digital to speaker could be as simple as a headphone jack to RCA (like this ). You could also do Bluetooth, airplay, tosslink, etc. all depends on what your digital source is.

u/MaxwellDumbass · 2 pointsr/CarAV

These aren't highly sought after products. Orion only has a few of those (such as 90s HCCA stuff which were fine, but only really consumed these days for nostalgia). So they are really worth what any oldish used electronics product in unknown condition is worth these days: not much unfortunately.

The good news is they probably still work. Solid-state electronics can be just fine ten or twenty years later. The best way to test them is to hook them up to a charged-up car battery or the 12V output of a computer power supply. Then plug in a phone with a minijack to RCA conversion cable ( Of course you'll have to plug them into a speaker. Even if it's an 8 Ohm home speaker, you can still test them just fine.) And if they don't work, there's a million low-cost replacement options out there these days.

u/the_blue_wizard · 2 pointsr/audio

Headphone are tiny higher impedance and very light weight. It does not take much power to drive them

Speaker however, are heavy, even small speakers such as you have, and low impedance. You need a separate Amplfier to drive them.

Check out T-Amp on Amazon, they are not very expensive -

Lepai Amps -

Topping Amps -

SMSL Amps -

Lepai are probably the lowest cost - Lepai LP2020A - $22.25 -

Get a cable like this in whatever length you need, plug the 3.5mm Stereo into the computer, and plug the TWO RCA into the Lepai Amp.

u/demevalos · 2 pointsr/headphones

there's a "line out" 3.5mm output on the back of the fiio, you just get a set of 3.5mm to RCA cables and put the RCA side into the back of the Magni.

The line out bypasses the amp section of the fiio entirely and just uses the dac portion

u/mattenthehat · 2 pointsr/audiophile

First, to connect the amp to the PC, you'll need a 3.5mm to RCA adapter like this. Just plug the 3.5mm end into the output on your computer, and the RCA end into whichever input you like on the amp (they're all identical, just named so that you can remember what is what). Make sure to go white-to-white and red-to-red to get left and right correct.

Then you just need speaker wire from the amp outputs to each of your speakers. Just use either the A or the B outputs (they are the same). Again, make sure to go from the left output to the left speaker and the same for the right. Also, make sure that the negative terminal of the amp hooks up to the negative (black) terminal on the speakers, and the positive on the amp goes to the positive (red) on the speakers.

Finally, just use a reglar RCA cable to go from the "pre out" on the amp to the input of your subwoofer, again being sure to go red-to-red and white-to-white on both the amp and subwoofer ends.

u/surgeandoj · 2 pointsr/computers

Just Google "RCA to 3.5mm stereo adapter"

Here is an e ample of one:
AmazonBasics 3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter Cable - 8 Feet

u/reptilianmaster · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

There is your problem.

You need something like this. It is amazon basics but you can get whatever the hell you want.

Most receivers use a single RCA for sub out (in which case your cable would work) but for some reason the SMSL uses 3.5mm for the sub out. If the connecotr isn't right all the sub will do is hum. It should barely hum if you use the right connector.

u/az0606 · 2 pointsr/headphones

Honestly, for the interconnects, just shop mononprice, or amazonbasics and other similar brands, unless you really want them to be neat. Don't overpay on cables unless you just have cash to burn or want a certain aesthetic.

The less stuff in the chain the better; I wouldn't run my headphones through the receiver unless I wanted the receiver itself to be my amp. Some people do that but receivers usually have a high output impedance. Not bad if you're powering something more power hungry, but IEMs and lower impedance headphoness (ex: Philips Fidelio X2) will have issues.

You'd want the magni 3 or magni 2 uber. You'd have the speakers connected to the receiver, and the pre-amp output from the magni going to the receiver. From the fulla, you'd want the line out to go to the magni. Bit confusing but you should be able to figure it out.

u/19eddiedean19 · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Yea, I don't have it yet but plan on buying this [active speaker kit](JBL ACTPACK Active Studio Monitor Enhancement Pack
Its a pain to reach behind to adjust the volume on each speaker but you don't do it as often as you'd think. This is more to encourage the wife to use the system easier.

Unless you don't think the cable is going to reach you should be able to plug the turntable straight into the switch I believe.

I used these [ cables ] (Hosa CPR-202 Dual 1/4 inch TS to Dual RCA Stereo Interconnect Cable, 6.6 feet to connect the switch output to each of the speakers

And you would need [this cable](AmazonBasics 3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter Cable - 8 Feet for the Chromecast.

u/raptor75mlt · 2 pointsr/Chromecast
u/xodakahn · 2 pointsr/techsupport

The real question should be 'connecting speakers to Xbox'. Just so you know the sound really doesn't come from the monitor, but from the xbox. You need two things. Speakers and an HDMI Audio Extractor. Something like this We use one of these for our Roku to a soundbar for watching TV. The HDMI cable carries sound and video so you need a little device like this to extract and split that signal to some speakers.

So when you get it, you'll also need a second HDMI cable. Xbox -> to Audio Extractor with HDMI cable -> second HDMI cable to TV. Then an audio cable from Audio Extractor to speakers. Depending on speakers you might have to get another cable Like this

u/so-very-very-tired · 2 pointsr/vinyl

The back of the LP-60 should have an RCA out. In which case, you probably want one of these cables:

u/MyUsernameIsJudge · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Assuming you can plug that amp in to a regular socket, you'd just need 3.5 to rca like this

run that from the projector to the amp then speaker wire from the amp to speakers. I've had issues with cheap projectors like that having a "ground loop hum" so there's a hissing sound if you use the audio out. If you get that you'll need to bypass the projector audio and try and get the sound from the laptop to the amp and speakers.

u/vince24L · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

The dual RCA to the L AND R input in the sub was correct right?

This plug:

u/qMorick · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Get a good cheap pair of bookshelf speakers (or smth more expensive) connect them to an amp and either use a splitter cable to plug it directly into mobo's integrated sound or use a usb dac (with rca cables). You will also have to spend some money on speaker wire to connect speakers to amp.

EDIT: another option is to skip amp part and get a pair of powered studio monitors.

u/RewindCinema · 2 pointsr/podcasts

> Behringer U-Control UCA202

So, first off, you'll need some RCA to RCA cables.

The idea of a mix-minus is that you're looping the "output" back into the "input." Skype only hears the first input on your interface, so that's where you'll need to connect your microphone (unless you're using the built-in mic). The other output will need to be connected to the other input.

I'm not exactly sure how to set that up on your specific setup because I am not familiar with this interface. Most of them have some sort of software that allows to decide where to route audio, but I don't know the limitations of this one.

This is a good video that explains the basics of a mix-minus. I'd give that a watch.

u/knovaa · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Does your PC have HDMI out? If yes, then [this is what you want to do] ( Get an entry level [AV receiver under $200] ( and connect it to your PC through HDMI. If your PC does not have HDMI, then it can also be connected to the receiver through digital out such as SPDIF or Coaxial. The AV receiver will have multiple inputs and outputs to connect any gaming consoles if you have any.

For budget speakers read this. You can get the Elac B6 for $280 or KEFQ100 for $300 right now. Get 16 gauge speaker wires [here] ( and you are all set. This set up gives you flexibility to connect additional speakers (for surround sound for movies) and/or if you want a subwoofer later.

u/xsoccer92x · 2 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions

In simple terms this is what you will need.

Speakers -> Use Speaker Wire -> Amp

You will need an amp because the speakers are passive and need power (which your tv can't provide). I listed the usual bang for your buck recommendations. In addition it's up to you whether you want to get banana plugs or not, personally it's just easier to stick the wire straight into the speaker. The MB42 has 5-way binding posts that can accept banana plugs, spades, bare straight wire, and bare looped wire.

Now the easy part. You just have to connect your Amp to your tv. You said you only have optical or aux (no rca?). The amp I linked has the option to use either RCA or Aux input. My personal reccomendation is to use the RCA wire over the Aux, if you can.

And for price vs performance, you can't get too much better than the Micca MB42s. It's always highly recommended as one of the best bang for your buck speakers at that price level.

u/cohl3 · 2 pointsr/simracing

As others have said it makes a huge difference. I love feeling the subtle details as well like engine RPM and gear shifts in my back. It really pulls you in.

Get a butt kicker setup if you don’t like to DIY. Otherwise a cheap setup can be pieced together easily:

Dayton Audio BST-1 High Power Pro Tactile Bass Shaker 50 Watts

ONEU Mini amplifier Super Bass Hi-Fi Stereo Audio Amp Booster for Car Moto Home with DC 12V 3A Power Supply, Black

AmazonBasics 16-Gauge Speaker Wire - 50 Feet

Free Software:

u/ThatsRightWeBad · 2 pointsr/audiophile

If you get him bookshelf speakers like the Q Acoustics suggestion, you'll probably need something to put them on, i.e. speaker stands, unless you've got an unusual amount of room on the stand next to that enormous TV. These can range from pretty affordable to unjustifiably expensive. Just find something that seems stable that you like the looks of. Speaker stands are something you can save a ton of money buying second hand without really having to worry about them being broken or abused, but you might not like gifting something used.

Oh, and if your house is entirely new to this speakers-and-amps thing, make sure you've got some speaker wire. Don't let anyone tell you you need to spend a lot on it. Stuff like this is just fine.

One other question you had was about wall mounting and sound quality--generally speaking nice bookshelves on stands will sound better than something you'd wall mount. In part because you'll have more control over how you place them in the room, and they'll be at ear-level like they should be. And in the case of the Q Acoustics (and many other speakers), there's a port on the back of the speaker that you definitely don't want pressed up against a wall. Basically they need a little room to "breathe".

Now, if he wanted actual IN-wall speakers (where you only see the grill), that's kind a specific and very different thing than what we tend to do around here.

What a great gift idea!

u/JohnCryptoRambo · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

The speaker cables can be simple zip cord-

This receiver would fit the bill and is about as cheap as I can find from a reputable manufacturer.-

u/y0y0ma · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

You have already mentioned that size is a factor. In that case, I can recommend Denon SC-F109, which are almost the same size and about £10 more. Tried, tested and impressed. Never heard the QAcoustics so cannot say anything, but the Denon has a lot of fans in Germany apart from me.

Both of your amps are good enough for desktop use. Get the SA 50 if you also plan on using it for a small party.

The wire seems a bit expensive to me. For that price you could get 100 feet of speaker cable and banana plugs and attach them yourself. All you need is a wire stripper or a pocket knife. In fact, I don't even use banana plugs; they are only convenient if you plan to connect/disconnect speakers often. 12 AWG would be too thick for your purpose, 16 AWG (or even 18) is good enough. You could also save some money by buying per meter (or feet as you're in the UK!) from some sellers or check your local classifieds to see if someone wants to get rid of their extra speaker cable. Also, I can vouch for this 3.5mm to RCA cable. These are a little more expensive, but very well made and don't usually suffer from contact issues.

PS: Just wanted to add some more information about speaker dimensions. H x W x D mm

  • Denon SC-F109 - 245 x 165 x 234

  • Wharfedale Diamond 9.0 - 236 x 145 x 165

  • Q Acoustics 2010i - 235 x 150 x 203

    So the Wharfedales really are the smallest of the lot, and the Denons the biggest but only in depth.
u/rssvitamins · 2 pointsr/headphones

WAIT Your speaker cable is wrong! I'll find you one then edit in a sec

This is what you need

Make sure 50 feets is long enough, they do 100 as well

The 3.5 mm to RCA is fine, theres a cheaper one here

I had another look at the picture of the speakers, they have the type that unscrews so you don't need banana plugs.

You'll want to split about 5cm of that speaker cable apart from both ends, strip ~2cm of insulation off, unscrew the plastic plastic bits off the back of the speakers, feed the exposed copper into the little holes then screw them up tightly. You then have to trace the wire to the other end and connect them to the amp, connect the 3.5mm cable from your source (pc, phone w/e) to the RCA input on the amp, power it up and you're all set

u/ericbm2 · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Of course, you can buy the wires longer or shorter depending on your needs. And the brand doesn’t really matter.

This kind of cable for receiver -> speakers:

This for receiver-> subwoofer:

You will need to hook a music/sound source to the receiver. It’s up to you how you want to do that.

u/jwaterworth · 2 pointsr/vinyl

You probably need something to connect your turntable directly to the speakers. this will work if the speakers are powered, which I think they are. Here is RCA audio to minijack:

but it depends on what connectors are on your TT. You may need hte female plugs instead of the male.

As for the receiver/speaker setup, you need to buy speaker wire to connect them.

u/mrbubbles2 · 2 pointsr/DIY_tech

Not really. Just don't go crazy with a crazy large gauge. Just eyeballing it, it looks like that's about 18 gauge so you could easily use 16. AmazonBasics 16-Gauge Speaker Wire - 100 Feet

u/bearwardann · 2 pointsr/Music

EDIT: I put main points in bold so that people can skim through this and get the gist of what I'm saying here. Very long post, so I thought it would be merciful to do so.

Alrighty, this may be long so buckle up and get ready for a journey.

I don't consider myself a hardcore audiophile or an expert in turntables/records, so I did some research when I was first looking to purchase one. I was originally looking at a Crosley record player but was soon warned about how notoriously evil they are -- by the way, DO NOT GET A CROSLEY, THEY ARE TERRIBLE!!! They are notorious for putting too much pressure on vinyls with their needles and end up scratching, carving, and ruining perfectly good records (for reference, ideal tracking force is two grams while the Crosley applies five grams tracking force). The parts are cheap and outdated and the player itself is extremely unstable and will skip if there's any sort of vibrational disturbance nearby. It's not good at all.

That said, I want to make sure you know what exactly you're getting into right now. When you buy a turntable, there are other things you need to buy along with it to make it function correctly. I don't know whether you're planning to get a turntable just as a gift that only your SO will use or if it's something you both will use, but it's important nonetheless to know what exactly a turntable requires to work properly. See, when people buy a turntable, a lot of people don't realize that there are three things that are needed alongside it: a pre-amp; an amplifier; and speakers. Speakers is obvious, sure, and of course you'll need something to control the volume, but a lot of people I've talked to only thought about that kind of stuff after purchasing their turntable.

The reason why these things are important is because most turntables rely on an electrical current in order to transmit vinyl to audio, but the current the turntable generates on its own doesn't matter if there's nothing to turn that current into sound. Think of it like a secret code. The vinyl is the coded message, and the turntable is the tool that deciphers the code. It can't decipher the code without the correct key, though; a preamp is like the key. It takes that current the turntable generates and amplifies it so that the signal is strong enough to be decoded by the amplifier. The amplifier is what actually turns it into the sound format, and is how you control volume as well. The speakers project the deciphered sound that you get to hear and enjoy. If you only plan on buying a turntable, then you don't need to worry about these things. Otherwise, keep reading; I'm finally getting to the point so please bear with me after this terrible analogy. :P

It's a lot to take into consideration when buying a turntable; when I did my research, I found that the Audio Technica LP series was pretty reliable. It's not exactly ultra high-end, but it's a great starting point for beginning collectors. There are two ATLP record players, the 60 and the 120, and some other variants that I'm not really aware of. I personally use the 120 because I thought it was funny being able to mess with the pitch settings on it, and I like the extended options the 120 has over the 60. This is just a comparison between both the 60 and 120 below if you're interested in the Audio Technica LP series:

In Favor of the 120:

  • the LP60 is a belt-drive turntable which means that you'll be replacing a belt in the turn table if it breaks, whereas the LP120 is direct drive and there's no broken belts to worry about replacing

  • the stylus is also a better quality in the 120, but I don't know from experience whether this is true in comparison to the 60

  • the 120 is also sturdier than the 60 as well

    In Favor of the 60:

  • the LP60 is smaller and more portable than the 120, as the 120 is kind of bulky and heavy

  • the LP60 is cheaper than the 120 (Amazon says that the 60 is about $100 while the 120 is about $300. I recommend the 60 as the best way to start listening to vinyl over the 120 as it's less of a financial commitment than the 120 is, especially if you turn out not to like records. not meaning to be negative but it's something to consider, as well

  • the LP60 has less options, but the options on the 120 don't usually matter to people who are just getting into vinyl so that's more of a personal preference

    Something in the favor of both players, though: they both come with built-in preamps, so you won't have to worry about buying one of those. Some people don't like the sound quality of the built-in preamp, but I think it's fine and it really isn't something to worry about as a beginner. The amp and speakers matter a bit more.

    When I went to go find a good amp, I made the mistake of going to Best Buy. Never go to Best Buy. It's a nightmare. The guy I talked to about amplifiers promptly directed us to home sound systems that cost over $1,000 in price. I found one on Amazon for $39. Not only does it work with my turntable, it's also bluetooth so you can stream from your phone if you want to as well (I'll link it right here so you can see it). I only set the amplifier up to half volume and it fills the entire room. I thought it was a miracle how I was seeing all of these huge ass home systems and then I get this little tiny ant of an amplifier and it does just as well.

    Now, onto speakers. You should think about the speakers the same way as I described the amp. The biggest, most ultra high-end stuff is just not worth it when you're starting out. I use Micca MB42 Bookshelf Speakers, which are amazing (the link is here). It's also $60 on Amazon, so you'll be saving money there, too. Oh, and you'll need speaker wire, which is $11 on Amazon as well.

    The total amount of money I spent on my system was $400 (it's really $399 but I rounded up), including the Audio Technica LP120, the mini amp, and the bookshelf speakers. If you get the LP60, you'd only be spending $200 ($199 but again rounded up). My setup and recommendations aren't the most top-of-the-line stuff, sure, but this is all I can recommend to you as this is all I've ever really used. It sounds great and I wouldn't really change it for anything.

    I'm so sorry this is such a long read, but I went through a lot figuring this out the hard way. I got my turntable as a gift along with those speakers, but then found out that I also needed to buy an amp to actually be able to make my whole setup work, and it spawned a two week-long horror show of trying to figure out what kind of amp to get. I feel like getting a turntable or really anything on such a scale as this should be a momentous and memorable occasion to cherish forever, and shouldn't be tainted by having to go through the ringer just to get one missing piece of the puzzle. I am also a music lover and feel your first foray into vinyl shouldn't be associated with high costs but rather being able to experience it for the first time and marveling in its strangely magical quality. It's a great gesture, especially towards an SO.

    Now I might be over-exaggerating a bit throughout this whole thing, but I think what you're trying to do is very sweet and I thought it would be good to take it seriously. Also, reading long posts like this can be exhausting, so I thought it'd be easier to get through if I did over-exaggerate and make it a more interesting read. Thanks for reading, and I hope your SO appreciates the gift. :)
u/savasfreeman · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I have a speaker that needs repositioning and my cable is too short, I thought it would be easy to just go on Amazon and grab a longer cable, job done, but now I am confused as to what kind of cable I should be going for, etc.

Any standard satellite speaker (I plan to upgrade later), connecting to a Denon AVR-X500, what cable should I be getting?

Is this correct?

u/jasoncaserta · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Completely new to this hifi thing and was going to get a closed box 2.1 system for around $150 now Im thinking I will start with

$90 Micca MB42X pair

$40 Nobsound Mini TPA3116

$11 Speaker Wire

Do I need anything else to make these work? Should I consider anything else (willing to go up to $200 if its significant) ? I plan to buy a sub later down the line when my budget allows it.

u/dcarcher · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I'll be honest, I haven't had time to really do an A/B test on them, and my schedule hasn't afforded me a lengthy listening session, but I am much more confident in these new cables.

I had previously been using this wire! with these banana plugs. They did the job, and I will continue to use those cables when testing equipment for functionality or if I do a temporary setup for a friend or something.

The new wire is 12 AWG single-conductor. I had considered doing 14 AWG dual-conductor (honestly just for looks), but I decided to go with the cheaper option. I may upload some pics at a later date as my setup has changed and moved around quite a bit since my first setup post.

u/Emintea · 2 pointsr/hometheater

I don't even have a setup yet, so please, someone correct me if I am leading this person astray, but from my own individual research it seems one of the better and more expandable budget setups involves...

u/dr_torque · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Depending on what your source's line-out looks like, you'll need to run either this cable(typical for computers) or this cable (for CD players, tape decks and so on) to the amp's input, and some speaker wire from the amp and the speakers. You can then decide if you like the way it sounds, or if you'll need a better sound card or some crap.

u/roomtotheater · 2 pointsr/hometheater

No need for anything more than 18. Can do 16 if it makes you feel better.

100' is like $3 more too

u/Teknofiliak · 2 pointsr/hometheater

I'm doing the exact same thing. This is my plan. (As a disclaimer, I am fairly new and a student of /r/Zeos.)

This Receiver

Front Speakers

Center Speaker


If that sub is too large for the mobility you want, you could go with this, which is quite a bit smaller.

All that (with the F12) will be around $525.

If you're doing surround, which may limit mobility, I'd throw in a pair of these.

Don't forget some good quality speaker wire and banana plugs make life easier if you want to move it easily.

u/nickoaverdnac · 2 pointsr/vinyl

Correct! However, maybe consider not supporting the evil empire that is Walmart!

Edit: Amazon is actually a little cheaper

u/oCrimsonxx · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I got a 1/4 TS to 3.5mm cable that I read on another comment to use for my computer

Hosa CMP-159 3.5 mm TRS to Dual 1/4" TS Stereo Breakout Cable, 10 Feet

u/Dodgeballrocks · 2 pointsr/audio

If you need a dual male 1/4" to male stereo 1/8" those cables are super common. If you need a dual male 1/4" to female stereo 1/8" those cables aren't as common but still exist.

You can also easily by the stereo audio cable and each of the connectors you need and do the soldering yourself.

u/RaptorController · 2 pointsr/ZReviews

you only need one if you are going to use the headphone output on your desktop.

you dont "need" a dac but it will improve the sound.

u/triplethej · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I've got a pair of Yamaha HS7 at home and I only use it for listening to music without any studio monitoring purposes, I just like the flat response of it.
So I am currently listening to music in 2 ways:

  1. Connecting the Mac aux output to HS7's unbalanced jack input via CMP-159 cable (link below); which probably uses the shitty built-in soundcard in Mac to do all the DAC conversions.

  2. Connecting the Mac to Logitech Bluetooth Adapter (link below) via Bluetooth then connecting the Logitech Bluetooth Adapter to HS7's unbalanced jack input via CMP-159 cable, which then probably uses the shitty built-in soundcard in the logitech bluetooth adapter to do all the DAC conversions.

    However; to get a better, more clear and balanced (through XLR inputs of HS7's maybe) sound from HS7's, I think I have to use a better soundcard than the built-in Mac or built-in Logitech adapter. Meanwhile, I also want to continue to listen to music via bluetooth.
    So THE QUESTION is, are there any sound cards that has a built-in bluetooth function or is it just impossible/meaningless to use bluetooth if I'm asking for a better quality of sound due to latency, data transmission etc.?

    I am not an audio guy, and this is my first professional setup, so I'd be really glad if you can help me out here. I have found a couple mixers that has a bluetooth function such as Focusrite Scarlett 2i4 but I'm not sure if that's what I'm looking for, or if they're any better than the logitech adapter.

    Yamaha HS7:


    Logitech Bluetooth Adapter:
u/biaret · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I'm using a CMP-159 cable that splits 1/8" TRS to left and right 1/4" TS to the speakers. I can hear a hiss if I bring my ears right up to the tweeter. I'm hoping the 2i2 will eliminate that and also make it easier to switch between computer audio and my turntable (LP-60).

u/dielawn13 · 2 pointsr/podcasts

For an iPad (or anything with a standard headphones-style 3.5mm output jack) you would need a 3.5mm stereo cable that splits two mono 1/4" plugs. Simply plug them into the Line In L/R plugs on one of the other available channels on your mixer.

You can find this cable on Amazon 3.5 mm TRS to Dual 1/4 inch TS or get one at any electronics store. Guitar Center also carries them.

u/ChinosandStanSmiths · 2 pointsr/AVexchange

My thoughts exactly...

With $360 you can get
the updated version of these speakers + isolation pads + wires

Or buy some red speakers lol

u/earth_the_navigator · 2 pointsr/ableton

Stereo info is coming out of the Volca, so it won't sound the same as if you plugged your headphones into it. What you need is a stereo breakout cable (such as, for a low-quality example). If you only have one audio input then your method works to make two tracks of audio, but it won't sound the same, or as good imo, as recording the Volca in stereo.

u/wentzelitis · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

The correct cable 3.5 stereo to dual 1/4 mono.. like this

Then plug one of the 1/4 into your interface. The other end doesn't need to be plugged in since the kick has no stereo features. 3.5 to 3.5 stereo or rca will work as well.

3.5 stereo to one 1/4 mono summed is not correct and can cause issues. this cable is not correct

3.5 to 1/4 trs will not work on mono input devices either. this cable is not correct for mono input devices

u/dagulesono · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Alright thanks for replying! Would like to clarify that I'm using this only for consuming music or movies on my PC, not producing/editing music. Would you recommend the Solo too in this case?


What would be the advantages of getting the DAC you've recommended VS plugging directly into my PC (with Creative® Sound Core 3D chip on motherboard)?? With these cables for example


Would there be less hissing/noise using external DAC? And in terms of sound quality, does it make a difference?

u/pewster · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Hey, check out the JBL LSR305 and 3.5mm TRS to 6.3mm TS cable. Cheers!

u/grantd86 · 2 pointsr/diyaudio

I recabled my Grados with one of these by clipping off the 1/4 inch ends and soldering to the drivers in the headphones. There is way more length there than you need which leaves you options and the cable is nice and thick. I used a couple of layers of heat shrink tubing to secure the Y split.

u/shopcat · 2 pointsr/audio

Your question is pretty confusing. Apparently you are using a computer monitor to play your PlayStation on and want to use Yamaha HS-5 studio monitors as speakers?

Yes you can send audio to the computer monitor through the HDMI cable. You don't say which monitor you are using, but apparently it has a 3.5mm output. What i think you need is a stereo 3.5mm to dual 1/4" or XLR cable. This will split the output to a left and right cable you can plug into your speakers. [Something like this] ( I don't think you even need to use the audiobox because the speakers are powered and amplify on their own.

u/mpelleg459 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I've always used the more old school route of passive speakers and receivers or separate amp/preamps, so I'm not expert on this, but I think a cable with 2 male 1/4" TS or XLR to a 3.5mm TRS would do it. like this though it appears out of stock right now. If the sound card in your computer isn't great, there are lots of recommendations on here about pretty reasonable DACs to get that could help in that regard.

These are active speakers, meaning they are each powered by an amp in the speaker cabinet. Traditionally, most speakers are passive, so you need an external amp to get any sound out of them. A receiver is just an amp with other features added, to put it in the most simple terms possible.

u/K-LAWN · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

It has a DAC/AMP built in. The DAC converter is better than the DAC on your motherboard. You don’t need the interface though. You can just plug directly from the 3.5mm jack from your PC into each monitor. Using a cable like this. Plug the red into the right TRS speaker input and the white into the left TRS speaker input. An interface is just the optimal way to use the monitors. But it’s much more expensive as you need to buy the interface as well as the cables.

u/asplodzor · 2 pointsr/audio

A mixer is the most straightforward way to go. A USB mixer is the same thing as a non-USB mixer (usually), it just has a sound card built into that you can use instead of the computer’s sound card. In your case, since you have two computers to route through the mixer, at least one of them will need to use the normal analog channels regardless since the USB interface can only be used by one computer at a time.

If you decide not to go with a USB mixer, pretty much any mixer than has two “stereo” input channels will work. If you decide to go with a USB mixer, find one that has at least one additional “stereo” input channel aside from the USB input channel.

I would stay away from routing sound through one of the computers. It adds unnecessary complication, and will almost certainly degrade sound quality. The bulk of the audio problem you experienced earlier though was from a line-level and mic-level mismatch. Simply put, mic inputs expect much lower power than line inputs, and line output send way too much power for a mic input. Even the lowest volume level of a line output will overwhelm a mic input. It’s actually more complicate than this, but that’s accurate enough.

Edit: for a dead-simple solution, this will work:

Along with two of these cables, one for each computer:

u/jonisaok · 2 pointsr/audio

If you're plugging into the gamepad, you would just need something like this:

Hosa CMP-159 3.5 mm TRS to Dual 1/4 inch TS Stereo Breakout Cable, 10 feet

u/zim2411 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Technically you only need this cable:

The downside is you'll have to rely on your phone for volume control then because the volume is set per speaker and adjusting it manually would be tedious. You can use this in between the phone and speakers if all you need is volume control.

u/cowanrg · 2 pointsr/audiophile

From computer, connect mini-USB cable to back of Fiio E10K. Then from Fiio E10K connect from line-out to back of JBLs (it's a 3.5mm stereo jack on the back of the Fiio E10K, you'll need a cable that goes frmo 3.5mm to quarter inch phone cables, like this.

That's all there is to it!

u/MultiplyTheBear · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

This is a situation where you would want an extra output on your interface. But you can make it work, sort of. Use two of these to get audio to and from your monotron/interface.

The thing is, you need to make sure that you don't send the delayed signal back into the output of your interface, or else you are going to get nasty feedback and kill your ears. So you're not going to be able to listen to it while you record. But I guess you could get a headphone splitter for the output of the montron, and use one for headphones and one to send audio to your interface. It may effect sound quality/volume- I've never tried.

u/the9mmsolution · 2 pointsr/volcas

Do you have any kind of recording interface? (e.g. Sapphire 2i2) there's tons out there. You need an audio input on your computer to take audio from the headphone out on the volca. The audio interface will serve as this input. Plugging a 3.5mm TRS cable directly into your mic input on your computer is probably not advisable since mic inputs are generally mono.

Sound is not transferred through midi. Midi is simply control information.

P.s. The volca headphone out is 3.5mm stereo (but outputs a mono signal) so you need a cable that has 3.5mm TRS to 1/4 inch TS

Like these:

Alternatively, some people use these:

u/Hemb · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Do you have any equipment already? What outputs do you have on your computer?

If you just have a 3.5mm headphone jack, you can use some cords like this:

It may not work well, depending on how how loud (static-y) your pc is. But it will work.

The next level up would be to get an audio interface; the Scarlett Focusrite is a popular brand for this. This interface hooks up to your PC through USB, and has outputs that are designed for monitors like the 305P.

I'm not sure if you know, but this JBL is an active studio monitor. It's main use is for people mixing music, who want a consistent sound. Some people just use it to listen to music, but many consider passive speakers to be better for home use. Have you looked at your options?

u/vicious_viridian · 2 pointsr/drums

I have the 502 module. Does the 500 module have L/R direct output? If so, I’ve used a dual quarter-inch to single eighth-inch cable going directly from the L/R jacks to the microphone jack in the computer, and it sounds perfect.

If not, the best I could recommend is to maybe buy a better guitar cable, as I don’t know the ins and outs of recording through the headphone jack.

u/Dashing_in_the_90s · 2 pointsr/ZReviews

I haven't heard that sub but it appears to be designed to go with the 305s so they should sound great together.
Both the speakers and the sub take trs or xlr in so to connect them up to a PC you would need a stereo 3.5mm to trs converter like [this] ( That would go from the jack on the back of the motherboard to each speaker with no sub or into the sub inputs then from the sub outputs to the speakers using just straight trs or xlr cables. You would need the same cable for surrounds but you would skip the sub and go straight into the speakers.

u/irequestnothing · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I'm making an assumption here, but I bet what you've got is a stereo splitter (i.e. for headphones) that is trying to feed a stereo signal to both speakers. Powered monitors usually have a balanced input on them, which uses the same (1/4" TRS) connector as a stereo unbalanced cable. Meaning whats happening here is both speakers are playing the same channel because left and right haven't been separated.

What you need is a breakout (or insert) cable like this. This will separate left and right signals onto two plugs. This is an unbalanced cable, but it really shouldn't matter in this case.

u/GRboy · 2 pointsr/battlestations

Nah just these.

No point in using TRS since the Origen does not have any balanced TRS outputs

u/MrCarltonBanksIII · 2 pointsr/microphones

How would I connect the TRS 1/4 from the interface to PC. I tried researching it but there isn't much explanation. Would these work?

u/perfes · 2 pointsr/audiophile

My new JBL 306p mkII have static to them when not playing any audio

I have them hooked up with TRS to 3.5mm to my rear audio io on my computer.

These are the exact ones I got:

Any recommendations on fixing it? I do have it near some power cords, would that affect it?

u/chazmotazz · 2 pointsr/diyaudio

The process is way less complicated than you think.

You didn't mention which model of those speakers you have, but it looks like they all have 1/4" mono inputs. To use those connections you'll need an 1/8" stereo mini plug to dual mono 1/4" plug cable (e.g.

As for you computer outputs, you'll want to use the headphone or L/R channel jack (typically green and labeled with a headphone symbol). Configure your sound mixer software to output 2 channel stereo. There is also a good chance it will default to stereo output with something connected to the stereo output jack.

This is the best explanation I can give without more details about the specific equipment.

u/isgrimner · 2 pointsr/hometheater

I'm not much more than a newbie myself.

  1. I don't think it matters that you have mixed brands as long as the speakers are compatible with the receiver you choose. I'm thinking along the lines of Ohms and sensitivity. I have my Denon receiver, I'm using Pioneer floor standing speakers and center channel, and am using some old Onkyo surrounds and sub I had from an older setup.

  2. Amazon sells good spools of speaker wire that will work great for you and its good but cheap. I'm sure 16 gauge will be fine for your needs as its thicker than what comes with a lot of speakers.

    I bought banana plugs for my newest speakers and AVR. However my old Onkyo surround speakers have the spring loaded clips style connection. So the banana clips wont work with them.

u/GrGoethals · 2 pointsr/audiophile

So you can see the row or red and black connectors on the back of the receiver, those are labeled for the available speaker locations. Standard speaker wire can be used on those as it kinda threads through then screws down tight (banana plug connectors can also be used if purchased). The backs of the speakers have a matching red and black connection that the wire screws into as well. So each speaker will have one red and one black connection.

In my case with this specific setup I am using the amplifier in a bi-amp configuration where I am utilizing the 'Front A' connections for left and right as well as the 'bi-amp' connections. The Klipsch speakers have 2 red and 2 black plugs on the back of them for this purpose. When Bi-amp'ed the speakers are able to use the extra power that another channel may use to give more clarity and over volume.

u/Yolo_Swagginson · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Half my stuff is wired up with this

u/Sir0bin · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Yup, that subwoofer cable will work.


You can just buy a spool of speaker wire (like this) and that’s all you’ll need, although I recommend getting some banana plugs just to make it easier to unplug stuff if needed, but up to you.

u/mikewilzn · 2 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

What's the point of spending that much money on speaker wire as apposed to just buying, for example, Amazon Basics?

u/Copernican · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I used the following setup for a cheap 2.0 system:

Amp: Lepai lp-2020a - $30

Speakers: Micca Covo-S - $40

Speaker cable: Amazon Basic 16 gauge - $10 for 100 ft

I think they sound great for the size and cost, but this set up isn't really going to scream bass!

Nice thing about this is that you'll have components for if you want to upgrade later. You want a 5.1 setup down the road? Well turn those covo-s speakers into your rear channels. Want to just get some bigger speakers later on? Well you'll have an amp that should do fine for a simple set up.

edit: the Lepai amp can be cheaply made. I had to exchange one after 1 month because the knob was wobbling and a channel went out. However the replacement has served me well for over a year now.

edit 2: to get the most of these speakers if you're placing them on your computer desk, you'll need to have them resting on something to slightly angle them up to you. Or put them on stands/mounts closer to ear level.

u/Kangaroo_Steak · 2 pointsr/headphones

If you have powered monitors, why not just get an RCA > 3.5mm Female adapter and hook the speakers to the Magni 2's pass-through? Set the speakers to near max volume and master control through the magni 2's knob.

PC > modi 2 > magni 2 > headphones

> RCA Line-out > RCA to 3.5mm Female Adapter > powered monitors

Literally this

u/J_M · 2 pointsr/hardware

Ok. I understand what you are trying to do and it will be a bit of a pain in the wallet no matter how you slice it.

I can think of 3 ways to go:

  1. Buy a component AV switch and use the video input/outputs for audio:

  • Hard to find one with dual outputs. (expensive)$179.99
  • Would require the use of 12 3.5mm stereo to RCA converters.$1.71 X 12

  1. A USB sound 'card' and KVM would also be expensive but cheaper and a more elegant solution:

  • Attach both speakers and headset to USB sound $70 with splitters $0.36 X 3
  • Attach USB sound card to PCs with USB capable KVM $30

  • A potential problem with this could be issues due to a mismatch in input impedance of the speakers/headset. If a problem arose from this setup omitting the splitters and adding a second USB sound card might provide a solution.

  1. You could try splitting the outputs (using 3 splitters from 2)connected to $0.95 X 3but I would expect the sound quality to suffer and I'm not sure what would happen if both sources were outputting at the same time. Potential for damage to your soundcards. This by far the cheapest solution so it might be worth trying before you decide to proceed further but do proceed with caution.

    As you can see, there really is no magic bullet for what you are trying to do with an analog signal - if your speakers and headphones were capable of digital input this would be much simpler.

u/MathieuLoutre · 2 pointsr/vinyl

The one I use with the same turntable and that's quite cheap (so you can upgrade later) is the Behringer PP400

Basically, the sound coming out straight from the turntable is going to be very low so you need this to amplify the sound (and ground the turntable using the weird extra cable ending with a U). Then you can connect the output of the preamp to your speakers directly in order to test it (with a cable like this one

Depending on what you want to do afterwards you may want to buy an amp or a receiver or even powered speakers but I believe the sidebar has more info regarding this.

u/dvd_sandwich · 2 pointsr/PS4

This should do.
EDIT: Or the one I linked in my other comment, speakers can be plugged directly into that.

u/jrl2222 · 2 pointsr/originalxbox

It sounds like you need one of these?
RCA Audio Piggyback Cable
Or these?
RCA Y Splitter Adapter
Then go with one of these.
RCA to 3.5mm female
You will need amplified headphones also. You can power the headphone from the usb on the TV or use a USB wall block.
If this won't work for you it should get into the right area to search for something along these lines.

u/Preclude · 2 pointsr/ZReviews

There are two good ways to do this:
Option 1:
Grab yourself a set of these.
Plug the double sided end into your source, and then feed the other end to your speakers. You'll then plug another set of RCA into the open ends on the source and send them to your Sub.
Option 2: If you don't like using the windows volume control, then you'll get one of these:
Also this:
The Barrel connectors will go into your source. Then plus the controller into the barrel connectors, then the piggyback cable into the other end of the controller. Then plug your RCA into backside of the Piggyback and put one set into the speakers, and one set into the sub.
Once you've chosen from the two options, you'll need to set up the speaker and the sub so the volume matches.
To do that I would turn the computer audio up to maximum. Then, turn your speakers up as loud as you would ever comfortably listen to them. Then get your subwoofer gain and crossover where you want it. You will then use your PC volume/or the control nob to control the volume of both of them. If you use the control nob, your PC volume will always be at max.
EDIT: You might also need this to get the sound from your motherboard audio out to RCA:

u/McLurkin · 2 pointsr/audio

It looks like the Z506 takes in line-level input via some 1/8" headphone jacks or RCA. That means at the very least you will need a powered sub, or an amp and passive sub. Since the speakers don't have any outputs, you are looking at a weird setup that will likely have volume balance problems between everything.

If you are using the RCA connections, you could split the signal between your speakers and this guy.

If you are using the headphone style connections, this is a tad more complicated. If you are using 3 plugs for 5.1 surround sound, I think the sub channel is one one of the pins in the orange connector. If you are using just one connector (stereo, you probably are plugged into the green) you will need to get even more adapters.

Overall, I don't recommend any of the above. If you need something to be louder, you need better speakers.

u/ABearWithFeelings · 2 pointsr/smashbros

For recording, I have a composite piggyback cable (one female into two males, i.e. a three-pronged version of this) that I send to my CRT and USB connector. All's well, but at my apartment, we typically keep my wii connected to our HDTV/sound system (my roommates tell me there are apparently other games people play on the wii besides smash) and so whenever I play (frequently) I have to pull my CRT out of the closet, and move the wires from our intricately wired sound system box to the back of the CRT.

I'm considering purchasing a second piggyback wire so that the wii can go to both the HD TV as well as my CRT, so I don't have to constantly re-wire things and so that I can have my CRT live by our entertainment system. Would there be any problems with lag or signal if I were to have the wii feeding out to three connections through all of these piggybacks? When I play I'll be keeping the HDTV off, and won't be recording much.

u/astrnght_mike_dexter · 2 pointsr/SSBM

I can't believe no one gave you a real response. Buy this and this. Plug the S-video part in to the capture card and the yellow cable in to your TV. Use these to split the audio. Easy cheap recording setup for melee.

u/Obscure_Username_ · 2 pointsr/letsplay

Is something like this or this what you're looking for? One is single male to dual female, and the other is single female to dual male.

u/SalaciousB · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Sorry hadn't seen those before...

All you are trying to do is get the preamp signal at line level to the Speakers and Subwoofer. So all you'll need to do is split the TT output.

Plug one of these into the TT and the other into the Speakers and Subwoofer


Plug the single end of this cable into the TT. Plug the the other end into the Sub. Piggy back another RCA out of it and run that to the speakers.

u/homer2320776 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Basically you would buy this from Amazon and use the splitter cable that comes with the X11's to plug the Xbox into VGA port of the monitor and switch back and forth from DVI for PC and VGA for XBOX.

Also purchase this in order to tie your xbox audio into the built-in speakers in case you don't want to use your headset.

I've used this exact setup for both of my nephews :)

u/Eurynom0s · 2 pointsr/pics

$2.69, no shipping cost with Amazon Prime (probably qualifies for free super saver shipping too).

u/tbatstdgagitw · 2 pointsr/gaming

I bought one of these Xbox VGA adapters a few months ago, and it works like a champ.
If you get one of these RCA to Stereo adapters, you can run the sound into your computer's sound-in port and play your game sounds through your computer speakers.

u/Joffreys_Greasy_Cunt · 2 pointsr/n64

Assuming your N64 is using the standard Composite A/V cable, you'd plug the yellow into the "SIDEAV" port for video.

If your TV doesn't have any audio inputs, you'll have to handle sound separately. Do you have a set of speakers with aux inputs? Some of them will take the Red/White RCA cables directly, but most will at least have a 3.5mm input in which case you'd need an adapter like this.

u/TophatMcMonocle · 2 pointsr/vinyl

If your TT has built in stereo phono cables, use this adapter to plug it into your speakers.

If there are no built in cables and instead just two phono jacks on the back, use this.

Your TT has a built in phono preamp, so make sure that's switched on and you should be good to go.

u/zult-- · 2 pointsr/vinyl

I see there is a Phone/Line switch. Since the cable is not removable this should do, right?

u/endhalf · 2 pointsr/PS3

Meh... Both 70 and 50 bucks as suggested in comments is a lot.

Buy something like this, connect the classical (not HDMI one) cord to PS3, connect audio cinches with that converter and plug any headphones without microphone you can find (I use ones that cost like 10 bucks). You need to select audio output to the regular cable, not HDMI, in the PS3 menu but that's a piece of cake ;).

I'm really surprised at how terrible advice you guyz are giving him. I mean, 40-50 bucks just to use headphones on PS3? It's ok if he wants to invest 40-50 bucks but if he wants it to be as cheap as possible, this is a very easy solution.

Edit: Now, you will need both RCA (cinches) females and headphone jack female. I can't find this option on amazon at the moment but you can do with female cinches and male jack as long as you buy female-female jack connector.

u/6x9equals42 · 2 pointsr/headphones

PC->modi is USB A->B, modi->magni is RCA

u/scuba_mafuckin_steve · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Looks like you're gonna want to get an RCA cable like this (red and white on both ends). Run that from the record player to the subwoofer, then run that speaker cable from the two speakers to the subwoofer. This only works because your sub is powered.

Check out /r/zeos for more stuff like this if you need more help/diagrams and stuff. Also, look up the subwoofer crawl and speaker placement guides for getting it to sound as good as possible

u/Pinguwin007 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

nope, they are passive speakers. that's why we suggest a SMLS SA-60 with it. you would also need two of these RCA to RCA cables. they don't have to necessarily be those. maybe someone has a better recommendation in the US.

u/Slancha · 2 pointsr/headphones

Sure did! works great, very east to use. Been switching the stack between the PS4 optical and the micro usb connector (need a longer cable) on my MacBook pro. Noticeable difference when I'm just using the aux on my mac.

Also @jayfurious

> I remember having to do this setting everytime I unplugged and replugged in the splitter from the dualshock. But I don't have a PS4 anymore, so not sure if the annoyance is still there or they fixed it.

It's still there tolerable though.

Previous setup I was using the Steel Series Arctis 7 for well over a year. At first I was unimpressed following the common theme from a-lot of HD650/HD6XX reviews. Been using them alot recently and now I really can tell the difference in sound signature now. Will try the Arctis 7s in a week or so here to see how much of a difference I notice. I use them for (order from most to least) gaming where I'm still getting used to the soundstage for FPS (ambient/soundtracks in single player game , movies/TV which gave me a-lot more appreciation for them, hearing every detail, and last but certainly not least music; where I find these shine the most IMO LOOOOVED my first listen to Yes - Roundabout. Huge difference when going through that stack rather than my Macbooks aux.

I also have to highly commend Roppmaster's RCA cable recommendation

>RCA cables:

The extension cables were a must for me and a great purchase.

These work so much better than the Monoprice RCA's I originally opted for they were so inflexible they were actually lifting the backside of my Modi 3 into the air. These RCA's are the perfect flexibility for the stack setup. Will post a pic soon.

u/Liquidjojo1987 · 2 pointsr/vinyl

Get rid of those cables- they are garbage. The ones that i used are these:

Of course choose the proper length. With these i have zero noise n my table. I tried swapping in the original cables and its atrocious. These cables are super cheap and well insulated/shielded. This would be the first thing i would do in your case.

u/mac404 · 2 pointsr/headphones

So you have a cable that looks more like this? Then any old RCA cable should work to connect to the back of your Vali. I feel like most homes (or friends) will have a couple laying around.

u/CrackAnus · 2 pointsr/audiophile

From your computer to your receiver, you can use a 3.5 mm to RCA cable (almost all PCs and receivers), a digital TOSLINK cable (most PCs and most receivers), or some kind of USB DAC and RCA patch cables. Some receivers can connect directly to your PC using USB or wifi or wired network.

From your receiver to your unpowered speakers (no wall power connection), you would use whatever bare wire cables are currently attached to your speakers or 16 gauge or thicker electrical cable. If you are using powered speakers (with wall power connection), those usually take RCA patch cables, although some have bare wire connectors as well.

u/Roppmaster · 2 pointsr/headphones

A USB cable is included, but you'd have to pick up some short RCA cables.

u/Phantaminum · 2 pointsr/headphones

Depends on what your budget is. I'd suggest, within your budget, a Modi Multibit + Magni Uber and you'll have yourself equipment that can power future headphones. If not, you can't go wrong with a Modi 2 + Magni 2 Uber and it's one of the best bang for your buck stack. It'll be a nice improvement over your motherboard's sound card which can carry noise from your video card/power supply/fans.

You'll have to purchase a USB A to B cable as well as as an RCA male to male cable.

USB A to B I purchased:

RCA Cable:

You can also purchase the 6" PYST cable from Schiit for $20. -_-

u/Bigsam411 · 2 pointsr/hometheater

On the TV, make sure you plugged the RCA cable into outputs and not inputs. Also if the TV has a headphone jack or line out try a cable like this one with the 3.5mm plug going into the TV and the RCA plugs going into the receiver. With that setup you shouldnt have any issues with the cable box or Chromecast outputting audio. In the future however whenever it's in the budget, I would recommend an HDMI capable receiver. a decent one should not cost too much.

u/carolus412 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Depending on the features you want, you could go with a simple amp.

You could obviously spend a LOT more, but that would get you started. Of course, this depends on the connections the speakers use. That amp uses normal speaker wire for both the speaker and the amp. That would let you plug in anything with a 3.5mm headphone jack using something like this:

I personally would rather use the RCA inputs in the back, but you could use the 3.5mm aux jack in the from if you wanted.

Depending on your setup, you might also like using a mixer. I have a behringer Xynex802, this lets me mix my laptop, phone, and desktop microphone into my speakers, headphones, and laptop's input.

u/veni_vidi_vale · 2 pointsr/headphones

I use [this] ( once in a while, it works well. You don't need $1000 cables, just get something that doesn't look really crappily made :-)

u/Imazagi · 2 pointsr/vintageaudio

Something like this (Amazon link).
And a charger unless you want to take the phone off to recharge it every couple of days.

Oh, and here's a cool and simple stand I'm using with some of my receivers.

u/Do_it_in_a_Datsun · 2 pointsr/AskMen

Nothing fancy just in case someone gets sticky fingers;

Audio Cable
Tube Upgrade

u/1369ic · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Not sure why you would want the l/r and the center, other than it's a good deal. Are you hoping to fill it out to 5.1 eventually?

I've never heard Fluance, but the go-to recommendations around here are one of these two Pioneer speakers, or the Miccas. Search this sub to look for reviews (and double check the model numbers if you're interested. I'm doing this from memory). If you get the Pioneers you should be able to afford the subwoofer that goes with it. Also, you can usually find a Polk sub like this one on sale.

There are better options, I'm sure, but these get a lot of recommendations for budget systems. I have a brother in law with the Pioneers and no sub and he's pretty happy.

As for hooking it up, you just need a 3.5mm to RCA jack cable like this one. Also, if your receiver has an s/pdif input you could go from the sound card to the receiver that way. If you use the first cable, the sound card will be decoding the digital into analog. If you use the s/pdif cable, your receiver will do the decoding. Depending on the DACs in the card and receiver, one might be better than the other.

u/dorri732 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

> JVC RX-6010V

That would be perfect. Get a 3.5 mm to rca cord and connect it from your laptop to any input and it should sound awesome.

I linked to a cord on amazon because I love them, but you may find one cheaper on

u/iliketobuildstuff · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Looks like you don't have a 3.5mm input, so you'll need a 3.5mm to RCA. Then just hook it to one of your stereo inputs. (CD or media player).

Something like this...

u/fractals_ · 2 pointsr/electronics

>weirdo 3.5mm connector-at-one-end RCA connector at the other cable? Does that cable even exist?

They're not that uncommon. They're usually used just for audio, lots of stereos use RCA connectors.

u/thunderhayes · 2 pointsr/DIY

First you'll need a VGA to RCA composite converter to convert the signal from a computer's VGA output to an RCA composite signal.

Then you'll need a VCR, I assume you have one. I also assume you have a blank VHS. Finally you'll need a 3.5 mm to RCA cable.

After obtaining this stuff, load the file up on your computer, load the tape into the VCR, press record on the tape, press play, make sure that you're not turned up too loud on the audio output. Make necessary adjustments, then go for final record to the tape.

If you have a DVD that you want converted, it's a bit easier. Just connect the player to the VCR and queue up the video, then press play. Just note, if you have a disc that is encoded with Macrovision, it will look like crap.

Note that I have never done this, but it should work.

u/n0b0dy_impor4nt · 2 pointsr/samsung

that aux in appears to just need an 3.5mm to RCA jack

note: that adapter is stupid expensive but you get the idea.

I have no idea how that equipment works, but Aux In is usually simple enough.

u/Thatoneguythatsnot · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I wish computers worked like they were supposed to all the time. Corrupt drivers cause all kinds of weird issues. If you haven't been able to completely remove the driver and any remnants from the registry/ file system and then install it again your best bet is probably going to be a stand alone audio cable.

u/reesewadleymusic · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Hm, I'm not sure why the RCA-RCA connection wouldn't work in this case, but I'm not super experienced with hifi amps.

Other things you could try:

  • headphone out -> Aux input
  • balanced 6.3 outputs -> 2x TRS to TRRS cable -> Aux input

  • 6.3 outputs -> 6.3 to RCA cable -> RCA input

  • RCA outputs -> RCA to 3.5mm TRRS -> Aux

    basically I have no idea why it doesn't work as is, but maybe one of these things will? The most basic thing I would troubleshoot is that you can get output from the RCA outs on your 2i4 at all
u/SloppyCandy · 2 pointsr/buildapc

The simple solution is get a 3.5 to RCA cable and plug it in to the headphone/speaker jack of your motherboard. The RCA end (red and white) goes into the amp.

Most people with that headset/amp chose to go with an external DAC (Modi 2 as an example), which would connect to the pc via USB, then to the amp via RCA (red and white) connections.

u/opinjonated · 2 pointsr/ShieldAndroidTV

Assuming you're plugging your Shield TV into an HDTV, couldn't you just use the audio-out on the TV with something like this:

u/pierpaolo452 · 2 pointsr/headphones

Sorry for the bad scheme, i did It quickly, Hope it's helpful all the connection except those of the subwoofer are jack 3.5 so, you need to buy the splitter and rca-jack cable

u/BurlKnives · 2 pointsr/G37

I use this guy in my 2008 coupe and it seats just fine.

u/riley212 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

this cable from your computer to the aux input

save up a bit to get better speakers, those are probably good enough for now.

u/goldswimmerb · 2 pointsr/vinyl

In order to use those speakers with a turntable youll need an RCA to 3.5MM adabter

Your issue is that those speakers only have a 3.5mm input so youll just need to plug the RCA to 3.5 into the preamp and into the speakers input port and it should work.

u/pprkut · 2 pointsr/audio

I don't see any product info available for a Stagepas 800i, but I do see info for both a Stagepas 400i and a 600i. Is your unit actually one of those models?

If it is either one of those, the RCA jacks on both of them are line level inputs, not outputs. The monitor outputs are dual 1/4" jacks just to the right of the one you were trying to use.

You will need an appropriate TS stereo breakout cable such as this one:

u/The_Kraken_ · 2 pointsr/audio

This cable is what you need for the mixter-to-computer interface.

As for microphone, many streamers use a "Large Diaphram Condenser" microphone. Condenser microphones require what's called "Phantom Power" to power a small circuit board within the mic for it to work. That's the reason that your $20 mic has a power supply.

My recommendation would be to buy something like this Audio Technica mic and get a mixer that has phantom power. This little Mackie board would do the trick. Alternatively, you could buy a "Phantom Power Supply" as a standalone component to provide the power to the mic.

That mic will be more reliable and sound better than the $20 one you picked.

u/kichu182 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

They're active speakers, so you don't need an amp - their power comes from a standard plug in the wall. You'll need to buy a 3.5mm to TRS cable. Something like this

u/Cartossin · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Here's a suggestion: 2x JBL LSR305 MK2; and this cable. Then buy a Chromecast Audio which is about $35. (not available on amazon because they hate google). This will give you wifi connected audio you can cast to from spotify or other sources. I have 2 of these setups in my house; these speakers can play very loud.

u/jackdriper · 2 pointsr/audiophile

A DAC is unnecessary for you unless your computer's built-in DAC is noisy or broken. You'll probably just need something like this and otherwise you're set!

u/agentsecateur · 2 pointsr/volcas

I have used these for the mono Volcas.

For the stereo Volcas these worked.

The Hosa cables will work but you end up only plugging one of the 1/4 cables in. I found the mono cables to be more tidy.

u/xQcKx · 2 pointsr/headphones

I would get a DAC for it, but to go straight to the computer you can simply get something like this:

As for volume control, I leave the volume on the back at around 12 o clock and just leave it there while just controlling my windows volume.

You can get a volume controller for your speakers that look like this: this will need some different cables.

OR you can get a volume controller for you computer audio like this:

Why not the LSR305's? Bx5's are still a fine choice though. I was satisfied with them until I upgraded.

u/starkimpossibility · 2 pointsr/audiophile

> What cables do I need?

A cable like this will do the trick.

> Does it come with packaged with these cables?


u/Rock_Me-Amadeus · 2 pointsr/Beatmatch

Here you go, have a look at this post

> 1. (preferred) Use the Scarlett 2i2 main outputs on the back panel labeled "Line Outputs (1) Left and (2) Right". Those are balanced TRS outputs, but since you are going into an unbalanced stereo input the correct connection is via a dual 1/4-inch TS to 3.5 mm stereo mini TRS cable. This is sometimes called an "Insert", "Splitter" or "Breakout" cable. Plug into the FPS1500 jack labeled; "Audio Inputs FRONT"

I've never tried this, so I can't guarantee it works, I'm not an expert in connecting XLR/TRS outputs to things, I'm afraid.

u/FulyenCurtz · 2 pointsr/audiophile

You would definitely need speaker wire (and wire stripper tool) to connect the Miccas to the amp, and then either an aux cable or an aux-to-rca Y-cable to connect the amp to your source (laptop, phone, etc.)

u/BurtonGoutster · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

You can get decent bookshelf speakers, a desktop amp, and speaker wire for about $150 and it will sound far better than a soundbar

Speakers $80

Amp $47

Speaker wire $10

u/SlimmJimm01 · 2 pointsr/audio

so any old cd/dvd player will work? all i need to do is plug in the RCA cables into the amp?

The Amp

The Speakers


u/Reverend_Sins · 2 pointsr/emulation

I used these in my cab worked like a charm:

u/rubberbandage · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

What a great boombox for audio in/out options! I take it your laptop has a mic/line-in port? If so, my recommendation is to first get yourself two 1/8" stereo-to-dual RCA cables (like these, brand not important).

  1. Connect a cable from your headphone jack on the laptop to RCA/line-in on the RX-5090, and a cable from the RCA line-out back to your laptop’s line-in port.
  2. Set up a new stereo recording track in your DAW set to line in.
  3. Pop a cassette in that boom box and hit record
  4. Start recording to that track in your DAW
  5. Start playback of one of your songs from your laptop (if you’ve made a new stereo track in your existing song session, playback will probably start automatically while recording)
  6. At this point the audio should go from your laptop’s headphone port -> line in of the 5090 -> cassette -> 5090 line out -> laptop line-in -> DAW, and you’ll end up with a “print” of the audio path via the tape deck. This is exactly how outboard audio effects work.

    Rinse and repeat! Hope that helps, I’m happy to clarify more if needed.
u/hack_tc · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

The cheapest I would go would be this Dayton bundle. If you can spend an extra $15 or so and make this same combo with the Dayton B652 Air speakers instead, that would be even better. Otherwise, you could also get the Dayton B452 Speakers with that same amp as the cheapest solution, but that 4-1/2" driver isn't going to deliver the lows like the 6-1/2" will, so really splurge for the larger size if you can. You likely also need a this cord if your TV has analog audio out. If it has Optical audio out, you will need this cable instead.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

u/senorroboto · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I assume you're trying to use the surround sound to play audio from your PC?

I've got some good news and bad news. The bad news is that you cannot get surround sound from your PC to your DVD player system. This is because the DVD player system only has stereo auxiliary inputs.

The good news is you can get stereo audio from your PC to your DVD player system. All you need is a male 3.5mm to male RCA adapter: longer ones are available if 3ft isn't enough. That'll plug into your green audio port on your motherboard. Be sure to set your PC output to stereo.

This stereo limitation is because of your DVD player stereo being a cheaper model and not a proper surround receiver setup. It's only designed to give surround sound from DVDs it plays.

u/sinistar914 · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Keep it simple. Get a headphone to rca cable. The speakers will be an improvement over the built in speakers but it's not worth the expense of try to convert digital to analog. This is what you need;

u/netinept · 2 pointsr/amazonecho

Exactly. A proper stereo is the solution here. Use a decent amp and speakers for the audio and pair it with an Echo Dot to control it, using the line out jack on the Dot to connect it to the amp.

If /u/Treas0n is looking for a good budget option, I'd highly recommend the Lepai amp + Dayton speaker setup. This setup is the go-to budget kit on /r/audiophile and would be plenty loud with really good sound quality. It's about $90 for the whole kit (+$30-$50 for an Echo Dot):

Lepai LP-2020TI Texas Instruments TPA3118 Hi-Fi Stereo Audio Mini Amplifier with Power Supply (don't go for this one anymore, grab a tripath version)

Kinter K2020A+ Limited Edition ORIGINAL Tripath TA2020-020 Class-T Hi-Fi Audio Mini Amplifier with 12V 5A Power Supply Black

Dayton Audio B652-AIR 6-1/2" 2-Way Bookshelf Speaker with AMT Tweeter Pair

AmazonBasics 16-Gauge Speaker Wire - 50 Feet

Monoprice 105597 3-Feet Premium Stereo Male to 2RCA Male 22AWG Cable - Black

If the OP wants even bigger sound then add a powered sub for $100 more (you may want to double up on your 16ga speaker wire for connecting the subwoofer between the stereo speakers and the amp)

Polk Audio PSW10 10-Inch Powered Subwoofer (Single, Black)

u/adrianmonk · 2 pointsr/audiophile

So you have a complete, working Panasonic SC-PM29, right?

In that case, leave it intact (Panasonic speakers plugged into Panasonic electronics unit). Then, as you can see in the second photo, the back panel has an input labeled "AUX" (one red and one white connector). You want to get a 3.5mm phono to dual-RCA cable like this or this and use that connect the AUX port to the computer. Then turn the stereo on, select the AUX input, and you should be good to go.

u/tielknight · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Example :

They connector via a RCA to Audio Cable like this

You wire the speakers to the amp and use the RCA to Audio cable to plug it into your computer.

u/tmccoy00 · 2 pointsr/Beatmatch

> I'm wondering how well mixing will work using these speakers. The Amphitheater only has an Aux In port, so I'm wondering if a short RCA to Aux cable will be sufficient and not generate too much static.

Yes - a cable like this will be fine - nice and short and you shouldn't have any issues.

u/noelsusman · 2 pointsr/Zeos

I bought the SMSL SA-60 because I wanted the extra 3.5mm input to be able to switch between my TV and a phone or something for music. I can hook up my TV and my phone using a 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable to the front of the and it works just fine, but when I use a 3.5mm to RCA cable into the back of the amp I can't get it to work (tried both my TV and my phone).

Did I get a defective product or am I a moron who doesn't know what the hell he's doing?

Also do you have a donation link or something like that? Your information has been extremely helpful.

u/quimby15 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I think your TV does not have audio out via AV Cable. I was looking at specs and it looks like the only audio out is headphone and optical. You could get a headphone to AV adapter to run headphone out from your TV into your Amp. Maybe something like this:

u/drfine2 · 2 pointsr/cassetteculture

You'll record through the line in on the back from your computer with one of these cables. The mini plug goes into the computer and the left/right RCA jacks go into your deck. i.e. you don't use the mic input for this.

You want a deck that plugs into the wall. It should have a headphone jack, that's a must-have for making compilations.

You want a deck made near the end of the deck era, you want soft touch controls and terms like logic, servos, capstan, head alloy mentioned on the front of the deck. Do not go for vintage looks, as the older decks have way more issues that can pop up. Hopefully you'll find a nice JVC, Sony, Onkyo that should set you back less than your price targets you mentioned.

u/Trickster1995 · 2 pointsr/ZReviews

No worries man! JBL>TRS to RCA>Schiit Sys>RCA to 3.5mm>Laptop. Plug the XLR connection into each speaker and then plug the other end of the XLR cable which is an RCA connection into the Sys output. Then plug the rca to the sys's input. Then plug the other end of the RCA input cables which is an AUX aka 3.5mm plug into your laptop. Another note is to make sure you have a long enough power cable for the JBLs as the one it comes with it quite short. Monoprice makes good cheap power cables such as this. Let me know if you have any other questions; I'd be happy to help!

u/dr_jekell · 2 pointsr/FiiO

90% sure that it is a no on that idea, but aside from the cost I don't see any harm in trying.

Although the easier way would be to use something like the following product to input your external audio into the K5:

u/EmperorSangria · 2 pointsr/amazonecho

Amazon dropped the ball on the Dot.

  1. You can hook it up to your Yamaha, but the 3.5mm jack outputs analog only - meaning it uses whatever cheap DAC (digital-analog converter) the $50 Dot has rather than the much better one in your dedicated AV receiver. You'll need a 3.5mm to RCA stereo cable to do this (3.5mm jack plugs into Echo, the L and R RCA jacks into receiver's Audio In). Something like this:

  2. Or Bluetooth to send the digital signal to your YBA-11 bluetooth receiver (hooked up to receiver via digital coaxial IN), but Bluetooth is lossy compression and further degrades the quality of whatever you're playing (which is already likely lossy since you'll be streaming). Also a bummer it doesn't at least support Bluetooth AptX. Your Yahama YBA-11 bluetooth does support AptX, but Echo does not.

    Just get a cheaper Chromecast Audio - it supports both analog(using 3.5mm or RCA and it's internal DAC like the Dot)... plus a digital out using S/PDIF - you'd connect it to the Optical Digital In connector on your AV receiver with a cable like this:
u/Manezinho · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

You might want a headphone to RCA adapter cable.

EDIT: these would probably be the easiest hookup. Otherwise you'll likely need a more expensive optical to RCA converter box.

Ugreen Gold Plated 3.5mm to 2RCA Audio Auxiliary Stereo Y Splitter Cable (6ft)

EDIT 2: like this one. Musou Digital Optical Coax to Analog RCA Audio Converter Adapter with Fiber Cable

EDIT 3: at second thought, the box will probably be a better choice.

u/Proper_Refrigerator · 2 pointsr/pocketoperators

Well I record my PO-20 using this interface and this wire. It's all worked perfectly well for me.

u/EightOhms · 2 pointsr/audio

I know why this happens, but it's a bit boring. (I can explain it if you want).


The work around is to take the Left/Right signal your are currently running into the the 2-channel input on your speakers, and split it, and feed it into the green and black inputs on the 6-channel input on your speakers.


You'll need the following adapters to make that work:

u/SpikeBolt · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I have had the same problem as you, though I don't think we have the same setup. I connect via HDMI to my monitor, then by AUX cable to my computer's Line-in and then to my speakers/headphones via computer.

I tried a ground loop isolator, which mitigated the problem. It's not that expensive so you can try it for cheap. Here's the one I got.

What solved the issue was just a better aux cable. I bought an Amazon Basics cable and the static noise was gone. Here's the one I got.

u/Swarthy_Immigrant · 2 pointsr/deaf

I beta-tested the /u/Biblos_Geek headphone and pretty much I found the same positive results listed by the other reviewers I just read here.

I will mention what I purchased to pair up the 2E1+Vibe to make it work. The headphone to me was free but I purchased these parts to make it work (costs may have changed on Amazon since my purchase).

Class D amp at $22

3.5mm audio splitter $5

3.5mm male to male cable $5

So my costs out of pocket were under $35 (give or take). Set up was fairly simple - no more difficult than wiring up a TV with external speakers. I am profoundly deaf in one ear and somewhat normal hearing in my other working ear. I would be willing to beta_test for this again if asked. So a positive experience over all.

u/Jomaan · 2 pointsr/airsoft

$40: Howard Leights

$12: Retevis PTT Mic

$5: Amazon 3.5mm Aux

$57 total to flesh out your radio setup.

u/sveitthrone · 2 pointsr/TapeKvlt

At the time that wasn't the intention. You could probably just get any cassette player and a headphone jack extension to do that for you.

Seriously, avoid any and all analog equipment that is marketed towards "ripping" or "converting" analog audio to digital. That stuff is marketed to aging Baby Boomers who don't know any better and intend to have their analog music played "one last time" before it's digital forever. It's a scam, and those things never work.

u/KnoLord · 2 pointsr/techsupport

You'll need 2 female to 2x female 3,5mm y-splitter cables, like these.
Also you'll need 4 male to male 3,5mm cables, like these.

u/brewingcode · 2 pointsr/roadtrip

My tips:

Things to bring

  • Bring a USB Cigarette car charger - Link
  • Cell phone dash holder - Link
  • Headphone cable - Link
    (Listen to your jams while driving)
  • Some snacks (stop at Trader Joe's or similar store)
  • Bottle water
  • Map of the region (Yes we have internet.. but not everywhere)
  • Plastic bags as you acquire them (at the grocery store, gas station, etc.. work great for garbage)

    Tips for Rental Cars

  • Don't get the insurance
  • Don't get the insurance
  • Get there 20-30 minutes early and be nice to the guy/gal. It's going to be a busy time for them and they will have a lot of angry people. Usually if you're nice they will upgrade you to a large vehicle because they have too many reservations and not enough stock on lot.
  • Don't rent from the airport, always go to a lot off site.
  • Be sure to do the walk around, it's as much for you as them.
  • Do not pre-pay gas. Just fill it up to where it was before dropping it off. I always keep an eye out for the closest gas station before I leave.
  • Double check you got all your stuff. Even if you have to make a list. I've found all sorts of stuff in cars that even the detailers missed.

    I travel/road trip quite a bit; If you've got any other questions, please let me know.
u/Enviedd · 2 pointsr/HeadphoneAdvice

Thanks for the info. Sounds like I need to decide on the type of mic I want.


I'm assuming I could theoretically purchase an extender if I went with a desktop mic? Would this work:


I'm trying to make sure I have everything covered.

Thanks for the help man!

u/neo_styles · 2 pointsr/HeadphoneAdvice

This is exactly what I use:

AmazonBasics 3.5mm Male to Male Stereo Audio Aux Cable - 4 Feet (1.2 Meters)

Insulation is just slick enough to not snag on everything, it's super-lightweight, and everything actually feels like it was thoughtfully put together. For an alternative, you could go with Anker (whom I use for all my Lightning and USB cables), but that would really be down to available stock and personal preference.

u/Beefington · 2 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions

You want a male-male 3.5mm stereo cable, commonly called an Aux cable. Amazon link

u/gailson0192 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

They have a green male to 2 green female splitter if that’s what you mean.
They have ones that have red and green female jacks to combine audio and microphone into one black male end.
They have ones that have red and green male ends that split a black female jack.

u/Ballpoint_Life_Form · 2 pointsr/iRacing

I have the same Turtle Beach, Justin, so let me see if I can help you out. The 50x contains a 4 channel plug, so that is ground, left, right, and mic. With some laptops, they include a 4 channel port, like the kind found in most phones. If your laptop has one of these you probably just need to change your input settings on your control panel.

If your laptop doesn't have one of these ports, you can tell because the mic/headphone ports will be separated like this. If that is the case, you can get a splitter so the channels can be accessed separately, something like [this] ( will work.

u/Gamesrock22 · 2 pointsr/AVexchange

Use this to split the boompro's audio and mic connectors

and then if it doesn't reach, use any 3.5mm extension to connect the mic to your PC/soundcard/whatever

u/The-guy-behind-u · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You will need to buy a 3.5mm splitter to use it on pc. You need a cable for your headset and one for the mic to use it on pc.

Here is one

u/maybepanic · 2 pointsr/techsupport

These headphone / mic combinations use a 4 pole jack as opposed to the classical 3 pole audio jack.
I don't know what kind of input you are using but chances are high it is a 3 pole jack.
You could use sth like [this] ( and plug it in your headphone/mic in jack

u/AbysmalVixen · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You need a splitter like this

I assume your headset only has 1 jack rather than 2.

u/randomguy113377 · 2 pointsr/headphones

If the headphones come with a single cable (TRRS), you will ned a splitter.

Like that:

Also you will need an extension cable, since I dont think the fiio and your motherboard-mic-in are as close together as the splitter cable is short.

Other than that: you are good to go!

u/Casper042 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Look at the connector on your Headset.
Does it have 4 rings or only 3? Example

If it has 1 connector, with 4 rings, then this is meant for a cell phone type connector. Most PCs still have separate connectors for Headphones and Microphone.

If your laptop only has 1 connector, or simply supports all 4 rings, then thats why it works there.

You would need an adapter like this to make it work on a standard PC with 2 jacks:

u/Wolfgangeth · 2 pointsr/headphones

3.5mm male to 2 female Y-splitter

Here's one to start off your search.

u/clay_yalc · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You will need need a mic/audio slitter like this

u/symbioterabbit · 2 pointsr/headphones

Okay what you could do is use a headphone mic splitter like this (
Then put the headphones into the amp and the mic into an extender that goes to the mic input on the PC if you're using USB for your amp or if you're using aux for your amp you can plug both your amp and mic into a headphone mic adapter like this ( that will temporally separate the headphone and mic and plug only the headphones into the amp. I may be misinterpreting what you want to do but I hope this helps

u/MisterMushroom · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Does it have a separate plug for the mic and headphones? If not, you should be able to get a headset splitter to work with it.

Could also be a drivers issue.

u/ANeedForUsername · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Please check this for me. Does the cable for your headphones terminate in a TRRS (yes, TRRS) connection?

Are you using a splitter like this that is meant to split audio and mic channels or are you just using a generic TRS to two TRS splitter?

u/pythonpoole · 2 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions

If your headset carries both the mic and the headphone signal on the same 3.5 mm connector, then all you need is a cheap adapter like this to split the microphone and headphone signals into two separate 3.5 mm connectors for your PC.

u/jogerj · 2 pointsr/techsupport

@OP You are looking for something like this:

This will split the mic and speaker signals.

u/freakingwilly · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

This adapter is the one you need. I use the same one and it works flawlessly.

u/awaythrow810 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Are you talking about earphone/microphone setups that only have a single 3.5mm plug? Sounds like you need something like this

u/Adaevan · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Like the others said, a splitter or usb adapter would work. I'd recommend a splitter like this one over a usb adapter, because the sound card on your motherboard is probably better than the one in the usb adapter. Plus it's a bit cheaper. Unless you don't have a mic input on your motherboard, or if it's not convenient or something.

u/JankClonk · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Plugging in the black jack will only work as headphones, not microphone. This is more or less what you're looking for. I would heavily recommend reading reviews, because I've purchased some that weren't very durable. If I can find my spare set from some Audio Technica headphones I bought a while back, I can let you know and send them for free. :)

u/hero_of_ages · 2 pointsr/windows

You need to get the splitter for it, because you got the mobile edition of the headpiece. Your motherboard's audio jacks are not combination mono in/stereo out like you see on cellphones and some laptops, and that is the reason you are getting those symptoms. If you want to test it more, I bet if you plug the headset back into the mic (pink jack) and speak into the earpiece, your pc will pick up some input.

[Here's what you want (or something similar)](

u/G7Franubis · 2 pointsr/razer
u/TraxRL · 2 pointsr/RocketLeague

Since your pc has a separate jack plug for mic and audio and your headset probably only has one for both, you will need a splitter to separate the mic and audio channel from your headset to make both work with your pc. You will need something like this:

u/ajjjas · 2 pointsr/audiophile

So, lots of information there, you've got some god questions.

In regards to the headset, you're right that a 50Ω set really shouldn't need an amp on its own to power them to a sufficient volume out of a computer. The reason to get a DAC/Amp would be to get cleaner sound from a discrete piece of hardware. If you aren't looking for ultimate sound quality out of your headset, you're probably fine with the outs on your PC (As unpopular as that opinion is around here, it's true). You can always try the headphones out without an amp, then if you're hearing hissing or lack clarity with your PC headphone out, then you can get a separate DAC/Amp and split the mic out using something like this.

In regards to the surround sound, I would probably save some cash and go with two sets of LSR305s rather than a set of those and the Logitech system. This way you can tune the speakers for your room individually, and I'm certain that the 305s are much higher quality than the Z906, even without the sub. The only hitch there is that you won't have a center channel, but many of us here use a phantom center provided by the front mains rather than a dedicated center channel.

You might need some fancy switchgear to have your audio interface connected at the same time as your surround sound, and all of that, but if you can sort that out, I think having quadraphonic 305s will sound better than the Logitech system.

Also, you can probably use your audio interface for whatever second set of headphones you go with, save a bit of money there. If you do go with a separate DAC/Amp for the second set of headphones, I've really come to appreciate the price/performance value of my Modi2u. I've returned higher priced DACs because I just couldn't tell the difference, or thought they sounded worse. It's a matter of preference, though, so demo what you can.

Hope that helps!

u/bloks1995 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

All motherboards/front panel audio configurations for desktops I have ever seen don't seem to allow a headphone/mic combo. I believe that you can buy an adapter that allows you to split the one connection into both audio and mic connections for your front audio/rear panel (which ever you prefer). I believe you are looking for something like this

u/irvinggama · 2 pointsr/techsupport

You can use something like this if you have a desktop that uses a separate mic and speaker input. If you have a laptop chances are just plugging it in would be fine.

u/Drawshot · 2 pointsr/Windows10

Are you sure the port is capable of stereo and mic audio transmission simultaneously? If your earbuds only have one trrs plug at the end, you will need a splitter to plug it into the separate stereo and mic ports. Like this one:

u/williamSquared · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I was in the same boat as you until now. My MB also uses Realtek audio (Gigabyte GA-H110M-A) and the only solution I've found for getting my mic to playback at a normal volume is using all of the following:

Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA)

Maeline 3.5mm Female to 2 Male Gold Plated Headphone Mic Audio Y Splitter Flat Cable

Panasonic ErgoFit In-Ear Earbuds Headphones with Mic/Controller RP-TCM125-K (Black)

Total is about $25. Weird thing is if I plug headphones and a mic separately into the USB piece the mic volume then goes back to being low.

This isn't the best solution, but I know there are a lot of folks out there struggling with crappy ass Realtek.

u/GearPipe · 2 pointsr/podcasting

I would use a mini to dual RCA cable, plugged into the 2-Track In. You could also use a mini to 1/4" and plug it into an extra channel, but the 2-Track In keeps those free for more mics.

u/Emerald_Flame · 2 pointsr/buildapc

That has PCIe soundcard that is built into the motherboard. That's what those 6 3.5mm jacks on the rear IO panel go to.

You just need a 3.5mm to RCA cable like this: plug it into one of the outputs, then plug the RCA jack side into your receiver, and it'll work and be way higher sound quality then bluetooth.

u/Lan_Del · 2 pointsr/discordapp

Yes, if you have a two channel RCA to 3.5mm cable, then you can run it out the back of the focusrite and into your headphone jack/line in. Set your logic input and output to the focusrite, and set your discord input to the headphone jack/line in.

hope this shitty paint drawing helps to picture it

u/jasrajsokhi · 2 pointsr/podcasts

Another way is to simply bypass your interface. I have the xenyx 1202 (not fx ) and this is the method I use. You can split the single jack on your computer using this cable ( )

And then use a RCA cable ( ) to connect the RCA out from your mixer to mic in port of the splitter cable into your mac.

u/lore_wrecker · 2 pointsr/cassetteculture

On the back of the deck, there should be two RCA connectors labeled Input, and two RCA connectors labeled Output. Or something similar. To record from your phone, you'll need an auxiliary to RCA connector, something like this. Plug the auxiliary into your phone, and plug the RCA connectors into the Input section on the deck. That should do it.

u/1point5volts · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

> How is the setup on the surround ones?

For the 6ch (one channel is the subwooker) mode I'm using I just have 3.5mm to rca cables running from my computer to the receiver. For this particular mode it expects all of the set up to be done on the source device. So there's really nothing to do on the receiver except plug everything in to the right places.

IT SOUNDS AMAZING. totally overkill for a desktop set up lol.

u/cf18 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You need three 3.5mm to RCA cables, like this:

That's the cheapest one on Amazon, you may want different length or higher quality ones, e.g.

PC Speaker out (Green) -> Speaker FL+FR

PC Center/Sub out (Orange) -> Speaker C+SW

PC Rear out (Black) -> Speaker SL+SR

On speaker remote, set input to DVD. On PC, run Realtek control panel app to setup 5.1 sound and test each speaker.

u/create-a-useraccount · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

If you're connecting your computer to these speakers, you will probably need a 3.5mm to RCA cable like this:

Connect computer to amplifier. Connect speaker wires from amp to speakers (provided with the speakers) and you're set.

u/currly30 · 2 pointsr/ZReviews

The xDuoo XD-05 is a great portable and desktop amp for the price. It does have a fixed AUX out on the back which is meant for connecting to other amps.

Open this link and scroll to the bottom it will give you a connection diagram.

In order to use the AUX output with an SMSL speaker amp you will need to buy a AUX to RCA cable. Something like This and be using the USB input.

Then all you have to do to run your speakers is turn on and off your Speaker amp. The AUX out on the back is a fixed out so the volume knob on the front doesn't effect the output on the back.

u/chdabre · 2 pointsr/somethingimade

just a small adapter or a RCA <> 1/8" cable. They're very common.

u/theninjaseal · 2 pointsr/diyaudio

If you're handy with a soldering iron then you can get this

2 Pack CESS 2.5mm Mono TS unbalanced male plug black cable connector

And any 3.5mm stereo connector to dual RCA, like this

RCA Cable, iXCC 6ft Dual Shielded Gold-Plated 3.5mm Male to 2RCA Male Stereo Audio Y Cable

These things are available everywhere in just about any length and style. They used to be included in all sorts of electronics during the transition period between RCA and eighth inch stereo Jack's.


Cut off the RCA connectors and solder the outside wire (the RCA cable should have one inside the other) to the "sleeve" contact of the 2.5mm connector. Solder the inside wire to the "tip" contact. Repeat for the other side. Now you have made your own cord for like ten bucks and you can repair it easily if something goes wrong.

If not, you can use a little converter for RCA to 2.5mm mono jack, like this. The phono jack end has 3 contacts for some reason but it should work just the same. And you don't have to work with molten metal.

Monoprice 107145 2.5mm Stereo Plug to RCA Jack Adaptor, Gold Plated

u/cctvcctvcctv · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Get a 3.5mm to RCA cable and wire the green audio jack on your mobo (right column, position 2) to the line-in on your amplifier. Make sure to set your soundcard to output stereo. Done.


You are right about speakers. Just need some speaker wire - strip the ends and hook it up. Your Onkyo manual will cover this. Can get banana plugs if wanting to get fancy or need easy way to connect and disconnect.

u/MHMoose · 2 pointsr/piano

Here is how I can hear both my computer sound and Yamaha P71 sound through my headphones.

  1. I bought this device on Amazon.

  2. I bought this cable on Amazon.

  3. For the cable, the stereo end goes into your keyboard, the two RCA plugs go into the device above.

  4. The device above connects to your computer to a USB port.

  5. Your headphones plug into the device. You can then hear your keyboard and computer at the same time, like if you wanted to play along to a backing track on YouTube or something.

    Hopefully that is helpful. Took me a while to figure out but it works really well.
u/BTsBaboonFarm · 2 pointsr/vinyl

I'd encourage you to at least consider other options before pulling the trigger on an LP120. At the price point ($365, assuming CAD, for a refurbished unit) is still too high for a used LP120.

If recording to your computer is something you'd like to do, you can always get something like this if your PC has a line-in/mic port (and if not you can pick up a cheap RCA to USB).

You're going to be paying more for that USB feature on a turntable when you could reasonably pull it off yourself with a cheap accessory or two.

u/ThaneofJudgement · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I'll condense all my information to this reply. A box like this is what you are looking for. It will take your SPDIF input and convert it to the 3 cable setup you currently have. Those 3 ports on the left will be the green black and orange cables you are using.

Now if you can't find that exact model in germany (with the 3 connectors on the left side that you need) then you can use any converter that takes your SPDIF input and outputs it to those red and white connectors. You can use those connectors with cables like these. That will give you the connectors you need to hook them up to your green black orange cables. The FL, CEN, SUB etc markings underneath each plug represent what channel they are. You use those extra cables you bought and hook them up accordingly into your logitech set.

EDIT: Something like this will work as well. That just eliminates the red/white plugs you dont need. But it has the 3 green/black/orange cables you need. They are marked underneath, just not color coded like your surround sound is. It will work fine.

u/blackjakals · 2 pointsr/audio

The Dayton SUB-1000 here would be much better than the Polk’s you selected.

Either amp you selected can be connected to your PC. You just need an RCA to cable like this one:

u/coherent-rambling · 2 pointsr/diyaudio

By far the easiest thing to do will be to retain the player and feed it sound from your computer using either the optical connection or a simple adapter to the AUX in. If your computer has an optical port, that'll be a bit better and might actually support 5.1 depending on the content you're playing. The analog input will only be 2-channel or 2.1, depending on how the amp works. Still, that'll cover most content on a PC.

That's about all you can do without spending way more money than it's worth.

u/John2Nhoj · 2 pointsr/audio

> I understand the easiest way to do this is by using a 3.5mm to RCA adapter but I don't have one.

Then get one they're inexpensive.

u/psycholis · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Do you have something like this that you can get and test the sub by itself from your phone audio or something? Rule everything out and isolate just the subwoofer because you might actually have a defective product.

u/OakFern · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

This will definitely be the cheaper option but there are still some newer stereo receivers with phono inputs. I have an Onkyo TX 8020 and it has a phono input. Looks like all/most of the Onkyo stereo receivers include a phono input.

But yeah OP, check your local Craiglist/Kijiji/whatever, people sell their older receivers for cheap all the time. That will definitely be the cheaper option if you are okay with going used. Receivers tend to age pretty well, just check to make sure it works.

EDIT: pretty much all receivers will have a headphone out on the front. It's often a 6.3 mm, but you can pick up a 3.5 to 6.3 adapter for pretty cheap.

As for aux in, a lot of stereo receivers will only have RCA inputs, but you can also pick up a 3.5 aux to RCA cable for cheap too. Something like this:

u/Fawawa · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Use something like this to hook the computer to the sub. Then use this in the subwoofers left and right rca to split the signal and use another rca cable up the pb42x and use your computer volume as you have been to control it. You would just set the sub up one time and leave it you wont have to mess with the gain as long as you dont mess with the pb42x gain.

If you watch this video at 3:35 it goes over what im talking about sorta

u/Elmer-Eugene · 2 pointsr/TIdaL

I already said this on another post, BUT if you ask me, for the money and build quality you can't beat Schiit Audio.

Pick up a MAGNI "HEADPHONE AMP AND PREAMP" for $99, a MODI "DAC" for $99 - $249 for the multibit version. So between $198-and $348 you can have an outstanding smi-portable DAC and Headphone/Preamp.

You will need a set of RCA cables to connect the DAC to the Headphone amp. As for connecting your smartphone you will need this USB 2.0 OTG Cable On The Go Adapter and then you will then need to connect that to a USB A-B Cable. Plug the "B" end of the USB A-B cable into the Dac. Additionally you could have skipped the DAC altogether and ran a RCA-to-3.5 cable right into the back of the headphone amp. But if you are aiming to take advantage of the HiFi/master audio I would recommend you use the DAC method. Connecting your laptop is just as easy and you can just run the USB A-B cable into the DAC. Or, if your computer has an optical audio output you could use a Toslink cable to connect direct into the DAC.

your all set man. get after it.

u/unwinds · 2 pointsr/SEGAGENESIS

Getting stereo audio and getting HDMI output are two different issues. If you don't care about video quality, then just use your existing AV cable to get composite from the back and something like this to get audio from the front.

If you want high-quality video, there's a wide range of expensive and inconvenient options available to you as laid out in another comment. I recommend an OSSC with SCART cables if you intend to get RGB video from other retro consoles in the future. If you just want Genesis and don't care for any other complications, wait for the Rad2X to come out.

u/phrates · 2 pointsr/audiophile

This would work fine. You don’t have to have a balanced output to them, it just won’t have a balanced connection, which shouldn’t be an issue.

u/waltzfordebby · 2 pointsr/piano

I think someone like this

The 1/4 inch sides would go into your mp11 outputs and the RCA would plug into your amp.

u/go24 · 2 pointsr/audio

Use this:

You don't need TRS, TS (tip/sleeve) will be just fine. You are coming out of the mixer with only 2 wires, you would short the ring to the sleeve anyway with proper wiring practices.

u/dlimec · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

Get a RCA to 1/4" stereo cable, like this

u/matth3wm · 2 pointsr/livesound

sorry i was looking up scarlett 18i20, not scarlett solo.

yes find RCA to 1/4" cables like these

looks like the solo has the same output bus for the headphone amp and monitor outputs (one volume control for both). the rest of my reply still applies (don't use headphone outputs for speakers!)

u/bp_jkm79 · 2 pointsr/ZReviews

i think ima go with the Monoprice Desktop DAC/amp with these cables

thanks for the help

edit: these were 70 instead of 100 just a month ago :/

u/huffalump1 · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

Dual TS to RCA:

>Hosa CPR-201 Dual 1/4" TS to Dual RCA Stereo Interconnect Cable, 1 Meter

u/kavokie · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Then this is what you probably need. The TRS (big headphone jacks) will plug into the middle of your front inputs on your Scarlett. Pan the left input to the left channel and the right one right, and your in business.

u/NEETologist · 2 pointsr/HeadphoneAdvice

a DAC or not depends on your Motherboard. I'd try it without a DAC first and hear for yourself if you need one.

If you need a DAC, you'll most likely need an RCA to 1/4 which will Connect the DAC to your Current AMP.

u/mistakenotmy · 2 pointsr/audio

With the turn table as well and assuming you have the Yamaha HS8 sub to go with the HS5's, I would go simple.

This to mix the two together:

2 RCA Y Splitters for the Output:

Then 2 of these (so 4 total RCA to 1/4"):

2 for the sub L/R and 1 for each speaker.

u/2old2care · 2 pointsr/audio

The outputs are either balanced or unbalanced depending on whether you use ring-tip or ring-tip-sleeve plugs. For the SMSL amplifier, you would need a dual 1/4-inch to RCA adapter cable.

Hope this helps!

u/unowndanger · 2 pointsr/vinyl

Yup, it's USB Type B. To plug from the Pre Amp to the interface, you'd need RCA to 1/4inch cables. I used these to make the connection.

u/sircod · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Here are some amp/DAC recommendations from the sidebar, and here are some from another reviewer on reddit. Since the 305s are powered you don't need an amp, just a standalone DAC. You will also probably need an appropriate cable since most DACs have RCA outputs instead of XLR/TRS you might find on an audio interface.

u/Tzpike05 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I have a Yamaha RX-V473 receiver and the JBL LSR305 monitors. How can I connect them to get audio out of my monitors while using a PS4?

I recently purchased a cable (link below) but unfortunately it doesn't work as the A/V Out ports on the receiver weren't intended for that kind of connection according to the user manual. Looks like they were meant for output to a video recording device. It appears I MUST connect the monitors to the Speaker ports which accept speaker wire or banana plugs only. I'd love to not buy any more cables but not sure that is possible. Could I strip the insulation off the TS to RCA cable and connect that way?

Hosa CPR-202 Dual 1/4 inch TS to Dual RCA Stereo Interconnect Cable, 6.6 feet

Would this cable work?


u/aderra · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

These will do the trick both in and out.

u/Magiobiwan · 2 pointsr/cableadvice

Something like this? Found that with a quick Google Search for "RCA Male to 1/4 inch Male".

u/tmwrnj · 2 pointsr/Guitar

The Mackie CR4s are competent, good value monitors.

You can plug your computer speakers into the Duo-Capture using a suitable adapter. If you've got an old hi-fi, you could also use it with this cable.

u/WaffleMePlease · 2 pointsr/vinyl

That price is for one speaker and not a pair. It's a studio monitor so they have very accurate sound that some people don't like because bad recordings will sound bad. Also you'd also need a cable like this.

Edifier makes a wide range of powered speakers that are highly recommended on this sub.

u/jandk23 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Well, my scarlett 2i2 only has 1/4 ports, so will i need to get a product like this?

u/randomdoohickey · 2 pointsr/Twitch

If you have to ask which you should use between a condenser or dynamic, the answer is cardioid pattern dynamic.

If you're willing to bump up the budget a bit and interested in better headphones, I'd serious look into the combo of the Audio-Technica BPHS1 headset and one of the new "HD" Behringer audio interfaces like the Behringer U-Phoria UMC202HD. This combo will blow the doors of any "1337 gaming" headset.

If you want to go for a traditional arm, the Audio-Technica AT2005USB + Neewer NB-39 combo is a good start without having to bother with an audio interface just yet.

If you do get an audio interface, this will replace the soundcard on your PC and you'll connect your existing PC speakers to the audio interface's output (you'll likely need adapters or converter cables like this or this).

Regardless of your mic situation, a compressor VST plug-in to OBS like ReaComp from the ReaPlugs VST FX Suite should be all you need unless you have a serious background noise problem (OBS's built-in compressor and gate suck ass). Then you can start looking into FIR filters and gates, but I'd only use them if needed.

u/ggfools · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Well, you only have optical audio out, i don't know if your TV's remote controls the volume of this output or not, but hopefully it does. what you need is a DAC for optical audio, something like the Fiio D3 would probably do just fine (and could be powered by one of the USB ports on the TV) then you just need a pair of RCA to TRS cables like this connecting the a5+ would be pretty much the same, just use normal RCA cables instead of RCA to TRS

u/travvvvvvv · 2 pointsr/guitarpedals

You could get a RCA>1/4" or RCA>XLR adaptor and use it with pretty much any USB interface.

u/Skitch_n_Sketch · 2 pointsr/audiophile

For the Nobsound you'll need this to go from your PC to the Nobsound unit. Find a length that works for you, any wire with decent reviews is fine as long as it's 3.5mm to RCA. From the Nobsound to speakers, you'll need these. Again, find a length that works for you.

u/MadAsAHat · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

It's just that easy, you'll want to make sure your gain structure is soft on the receive and heavier on the send, since these units tend to be a bit noisy.

u/MankYo · 2 pointsr/audiophile

>Is there any guide on the first method you mentioned?

Your Behringer UMC22 has what looks like a 6.35 mm line level input, and a 6.35 mm instrument level input. If those are both line-level inputs, to get output from your CD player into that, you'll need a couple mono RCA to 6.35 mm cables (whatever brand/length is fine):

You may need to configure those inputs in software.

If the inputs on the Behringer aren't both line level inputs, as in if the mic input is only a mic level input, you may need to figure out how to undo phantom mic power into input 1, and/or involve a DI box for input 2. (At that point, you've spent around 3-4 x the price of an external CD drive on new audio equipment.) Check your Behringer product manual to be sure.

Hopefully you'll be able to use the included or other software to fade and/or pan those channels appropriately into the original stereo mix. The audio production subreddits would be able to provide detailed guidance for that.

I do not recommend going the route described above if there are any other options.

You might want to check if your MBP or an included/optional dongle has a 3.5 mm optical or stereo audio input. If so, you could grab the digital signal directly from the CD player, or get analog stereo without the mess of the UMC22.

u/john1475 · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Your preamp has RCA jacks and the speaker has XLR and 1/4" TRS. Your best bet is probably RCA to 1/4". Like this

u/gimptactics · 2 pointsr/gaming

Yep, you can either connect directly with the optical or RCA out ports on the adaptor, or you get an RCA to 3.5mm adaptor for headphones or stereo speakers.

You'll need female to female, I think, like this

u/vitaminainspector · 2 pointsr/wiiu

I don’t know about USB headphones but there’s an option to output audio through the analog output so if you have an analog cable (like from a wii) you can use one of these or something like it to adapt that to a 3.5mm headphone jack and just use that instead for your headphones. It’s not USB but it’s the only thing I could think of.

u/thedeathmachine · 2 pointsr/xbox360

It's not risky; no. It's just the cord.

Here is a youtube demonstration:

I'm running this setup right now and it works perfectly. Basically the little adapter trick is saving you however much money it costs to buy the RCA cables that will allow you to plug HDMI in at the same time. Microsoft is just trying to nickle and dime you by putting a little plastic blocker piece on the RCA cable that comes standard with the Xbox. I use this method instead of plugging my headphones into the TV headphone jack; the audio when coming directly from the 360 is a lot higher quality than when it gets normalized/equalized through the TV.

Also, I use an adapter like this to convert the red/white audio cords into a headphone jack:

u/Nerellus · 2 pointsr/ps2

In System Configuration you switch video output from RGB to Y Cb/Pb Cr/Pr, you can do this using the green-colored RCA connector on a TV's video (yellow) composite input.

Audio works as normal, over the red and white RCA connectors. You can use an additional RCA/3.5mm adapter (like this or this for headphones) if your audio setup needs it.

The VGA end on the adapter cable is female, so you'll also need to have a VGA cable handy unless you're connecting it to an older computer monitor with a built-in VGA cable.

u/Telaneo · 2 pointsr/PS3

You still got the AV cable that came with your PS3? The one that goes to yellow, white and red?

You'll need a female stereo RCA to female 3.5 mil. Something like this. (should be easy to find dirt cheap).

Connect your AV cable to the AV port, and connect the red and white cable to the red and white ends on the adaptor, and connect your headset's 3.5 mil to the adaptor. If needed, connect your headset to one of the USB ports for power. Then set your PS3 to output audio via the AV port. You can still output video seperatly via HDMI or whatever. If your headset is smart, it'll even mix the game audio and chat audio together, and you'll get the proper PS3 headset experience.

Before you do this though, just double check that your TV/monitor doesn't have a 3.5 mil port you can use. A lot of them will pass whatever audio input out that port and silence the speakers when you connect something. That's probably easier.

u/manbearpig304 · 2 pointsr/wiiu

You can use this cord and any pair of computer speakers that you may already have

You might have to change a setting in the wii u menu to get the sound to output to the audio jacks instead of the hdmi though

u/qaruxj · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Some preamps (such as this one) do have 1/4" outputs, so you could get a 1/4" to 1/8" adapter and plug your computer speakers into that.

According to one review of the Pioneer turntable, it does have a built-in preamp, so it appears that you don't need one. The phono EQ is explained in the section on RIAA equalization in the article that I linked. Since you're probably buying a turntable with a built-in preamp, that means that all you really need is a female RCA to female 1/8" adapter, such as this one.

u/DarkLordKohan · 2 pointsr/iamverysmart

Manhattan 6 inches Stereo Splitter-3.5mm Jack to 2-RCA Jacks Audio Adapter

Is this what he did?

u/JoeyTriforce · 2 pointsr/wii

My headphones have adjustable volume. How would that compare to something like this though?

Edit: Actually, scratch that. I'd prefer not having to keep switching the audio cables from the TV to headphones, so the Wii2HDMI converter with headphones that include an adjustable dial seems like the best solution. Appreciate the help!

u/lsorah0001 · 2 pointsr/howto

I have a set of Logitech speakers as well with this set-up. Search eBay for USB 5.1 and you'll find what you need to use it with a computer that plugs into a standard USB port. If you are using an iPod or other similar device, you can use the green plug and it work great as stereo speakers (some can combine front and rear to get a "surround" sound, YMMV.) If you are using it for your TV/video game, you'll need an RCA to 3.5mm converter...which has also been posted in this thread...hope this helps!

u/praystationfoh · 2 pointsr/playstation

AV output under Audio Output settings.

Get one of these

enjoy a mess of cables.

maybe there's a USB headset. (never did any research myself)

u/MagnaMike · 2 pointsr/headphones


I just used in game audio options to adjust volume.

Edit: This would likely work too.

u/Ro5ario · 2 pointsr/wiiu
u/RGB240P · 2 pointsr/crtgaming

I had problems fitting everything into the SCART connector. The monoprice cable is pretty thick in the center with that shielding, there wasn't enough room to cram that cable and the audio cable through that opening. I didn't need these adapters to be very long, my cables already reached, so I ended up using only the unsheiled portions at the end of the cable, removing the thicker middle section. I was able to fit everything in that way.

Soldering to the SCART connector was difficult. It was easy to melt the connector's plastic with the iron. Tinning the SCART pins and the wires helped. I was/am new to soldering and I didn't have flux so I tried without it. I think it would have gone a lot easier with it. I ended up using a lot of solder wick and the solder sucker to redo my work.

You'll also need heatshrink. When you are ready to solder the wires from each color BNC connector you'll need to strip the jacket and expose an inch or so of sheilding. Pull the sheilding away from the inner core and twist it together to form its own wire. Cover this bare wire with heatshrink, leaving only the tip exposed so you can solder it to the proper pin.

Finding faults in the chain was a problem. Everything seemed to work right off the bat, but then I had a console intermittently lose green signal. Trying to figure out where the bad connection was sucked. I had to figure out if it was the RGB mod in the console, the RGB SCART cable, my homemade SCART->BNC input adapter, my homemade BNC->SCART output adapter, or the SCART->XRB-mini adapter. (It was my SCART-BNC input adapter)


6" 4-BNC cable:

Female SCART connectors:

50ft 3 conductor cable:

Phoenix Audio Plugs:

RCA Y-adapters:

3RCA->3BNC cable:

RCA->BNC adapter:

Those last few items were used more with routing YPbPr component video through the Extron.


*edit: formatting

u/Pesto_Enthusiast · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

If your headphones use the standard plug, then you need a 2 RCA male 3.5mm female adapter. Here's one with decent reviews from Amazon

u/CoupleTryingGWout · 2 pointsr/hometheater

What do those RCA plugs AUX on the subwoofer do, are they an input or an output? The two amazon things you'll need, the cable you have won't fit with the green one though, it's all males (you'd need one like this instead this But if those are inputs, you're better off just pugging a straight male to male RCA cable

u/burniemcburn · 2 pointsr/Beatmatch

You need to find a way to hook up the the system using your RCA outs. That might require getting back behind the sound system to swap out the 3.5mm headphone to RCA cable that's already plugged in for a regular RCA to RCA cable. Alternatively, you can snag yourself a cable like this one to go from your controller to the Aux cable of the system.

u/woeltic · 2 pointsr/audiophile

What's the difference between using the headphone output and the preamp output with a cable like this on my Schiit Vali 2 (on a pair of headphones)?

u/einmalistkeinmal · 2 pointsr/audiophile

For non-simultaneous playback:

Here's what you could do:
Buy one 3.5mm Stereo Male to Two RCA Male Splitter Cable, and one 2 x RCA Male, 1 x 3.5mm Stereo Female, Y-Cable 6-Inch. Also get a 3-Way Audio Video AV RCA Switch Selector Box Splitter. That all together is $9.82 US.

Connect the xbox to your TV as normal. Use the RCA cable included with the splitter to connect your TV's audio output to the Splitter's Input 1. You don't need to connect the yellow video connection on that cable. Then use a male 3.5mm Stereo to RCA cord to connect your laptop/iphone's headphone jack to the Splitter's Input 2. Plug the 2 x RCA Male, 1 x 3.5mm Stereo Female, Y-Cable 6-Inch cable into the Splitter's Output, and connect your headphones to the 3.5mm female end. You should then easily be able to switch between ipod/laptop and xbox/tv sound feeding to your headphones by adjusting the splitter's output switch. This is a very basic setup, but should achieve what you're going for as long as you didn't want the two inputs playing simultaneously.

For simultaneous playback:

Here's what you could do (I admit this is probably a bit of a wrap around way of doing it, but it was fun to come up with):

Two Behringer MICROMIX MX400 4-Channel Mixer, one 3.5mm Stereo Male To 2 RCA Male Cable, one Male RCA to male RCA cable, one male RCA to female 3.5mm cable, six 3.5mm to 2RCA female adapter, and six 1/4 inch to 1/8 inch stereo jack adapters. This setup without shipping and handling costs $75.55 US.

This thing only outputs in mono though, so it doesn't benefit your headphones greatly (only one side will play sound). This is why we're gonna get two of them though, and this is the fun part. Check out this picture: It has the steps included with a crude illustration. The benefit of this setup is that you can have the ipod/laptop coming in at a different volume than the tv/xbox. Also has space for two more inputs if your ever have more you want to plug in (or to allow a laptop and ipod to be plugged in at the same time).

I... I think that setup would work.

u/cqinzx · 2 pointsr/letsplay

I believe Zombait is correct, but it can fixed with a simple converter(here). However, with this you'll also need an RCA to 3.5 adapter.

With this set up, you should be able to get stereo in your headphones.

u/sneddo_trainer · 2 pointsr/vinyl

So that speaker system already has an amplifer built into it, and adding an external one will not help. You will however need a phono preamp between the RCA output of the table and the speaker input. So:

RCA from table -> RCA input on phono preamp -> phono preamp -> RCA output from phono preamp -> adapter -> control pod on speaker system.

So you need a phono preamp, and an RCA male to 1/4" TRS female adapter.

That turntable is pretty good for its time/price, though you should probably replace the cartridge and/or stylus.

u/FreeDirt · 2 pointsr/funny

>Cons: Heavy.

For some reason I cannot stop laughing. Reminds me of this review about RCA-to-3.5mm audio output.

Here's the actual product page.

u/IYellAtVideoGames · 2 pointsr/letsplay

Ok, this solution is a bit tricky, so bear with me.

If you're playing an Xbox 360, here's how the cable output should look normally:

Xbox 360 -> HDMI -> Elgato -> HDMI/USB -> TV/PC


Well you can leave all of that plugged in, and also plug in this into the Component slot, and then this into the Component input, with your headphones plugged into the 3.5mm jack.

I drew a diagram while figuring this out, so here is that.

I can't seem to find something similar for a Playstation, but I might not be looking for the right things. In any case, if nothing else works, you could always try just buying a cable hub. Every console plugs into it, and it outputs to headphones, the cap card, and the TV.

u/SirCrest_YT · 2 pointsr/ElgatoGaming

You can use the Chat Link on the original HD. But you'll need a 3.5mm to stereo RCA adapter to connect it to the Analog audio inputs of your HD.

Like this:

u/TemptedTemplar · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

So, the HDMI is going into one of the two HDMI in slots right?

And there isnt any sound?

Then get a 3.5mm cable, stick it in the headphone jack and use a 3.5mm audio to RCA splitter and plug it into the coressponding white/red input for the HDMI slot selected.

u/divinemuffdiver77 · 2 pointsr/Twitch

That was my problem too in the beginning. This may get a little long, but I can definitely help you out.

Elgato has page to help with this issue

I use the original Elgato HD and at first I had a headset with a USB and 3.5mm headphone jack, so I had to make a little jerry rig setup with a splitter and an audio Y cable

But if you are willing to spend some money, I highly recommend getting this headset
Its what I am using now because I can talk to my teammates in game, hear my tv audio, and listen to music or donation goals on my PC since it has a multi media source input.

I hope this helps.

u/TaurusBurger · 2 pointsr/xboxone

I mean there is certainly potential for that?

I don't know how the optical out would convert (especially if you are going wireless) to say analog--then to bluetooth.

From HDMI to your HDTV, I would assume it has red/white out. I just recently bought a new TV that had, per usual, crappy sound. I happened to have a RW to 3.5mm female converter lying around, and I connected a decent pair of PC speakers. They work super well, and put out the right kind of sound depth I need.

I wouldn't be surprised if you could slap a Bluetooth transmitter on the end of that, and it would work? Those converters are only like two bucks on amazon, and they're useful for other things too, so its not like it would be a big hit on the wallet since you already have, I assume, the BT transmitter as well.

EDIT: Just for reference, here is the cord I'm talking about.

u/APenguinSandwich · 2 pointsr/vinyl

I can't seem to edit my post right now (on mobile).
The adaptor should be female like this...

u/tsdguy · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Depends on the TV. Most TVs have audio out either with Toslink (digital) or RCA (analog). Although I've seen headphones with Toslink they're specialty items so I'm going to assume you need analog.

In that case you'll need this: RCA Stereo to 3.5 Stereo Adapter

This assumes the headphone have the standard 3.5mm mini plug which would be on most devices that plug into phones or MP3 players.

u/colepanda · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Sure. The audio can be a little tricky but here is what I have. The easiest thing would be if your home theater system or tv accepted optical inputs so that you could use the xbox's built in optical and connect if directly to your tv or home theater system without doing any conversions. If that does not work you have to convert the optical to a 3.5mm connection or a rca audio connection (these are the red and white components next to your dvi connection) . The way to do that is by way of adapter or cords. Like others have stated adapters might give you latency problems. So a cord might prove the better way to go. Ultimately for your connection it looks like you will have to go from optical to 3.5mm to RCA audio. Conversely the newer controllers have a 3.5mm connection built into it. So you would just have to go from 3.5mm to RCA audio.

I'll try to find links but hopefully this gives you a starting point.


Start with this or {this + this} then convert that signal to RCA with this

-In theory this should work

u/drdinonaut · 2 pointsr/futurebeatproducers

So this?

I'm not sure I understand what you're looking for if not an adapter, there are adapters that convert rca out to any input that a speaker could take. You don't need to buy a speaker that specifically takes rca input in order to use rca equipment

u/zax9 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

The word "port" just refers to the physical connections. Ports can be either inputs (they take in a signal) or outputs (which send out a signal). You're in luck though, according to the product manual (page 6) linked from the page you just provided the URL to, the ports on the side of the TV are outputs. If you want to use a 3.5mm cable connection (like for computer speakers) then this adapter (or one like it) is what you need.

u/Rivster79 · 2 pointsr/DJs

So your speakers have a 3.5mm MALE coming out of them?

If so, this is what you need:

2 x RCA Male, 1 x 3.5mm Stereo Female, Y-Cable 6-Inch

Are they powered/amplified speakers? Based on this configuration, I'm guessing they are not powered, so I don't think this will work anyway as you are feeding sound out of a controller not an amp/mixer.

u/hoteltech · 2 pointsr/headphones

This would do the trick for $1.24 but the cable might be a bit short. Fortunately there's a 3 foot cable that's only $6.59.

u/Jakomako · 2 pointsr/buildapc
u/omgftwbbqsauce · 2 pointsr/vinyl

Hello fellow LP120 owner!

Your new turntable comes with a built in preamp, but you still need an amp to amplify the line level audio. Records necessitate a preamp, as the audio level is quite low compared to other sources, (i.e. CD player, iPod). In addition to boosting the audio signal to something your amp can work with, the preamp also applies RIAA equalization which more or less adds back in the low end.

Some of the older amps out there have a specific PHONO input, which is designed to do the same thing a preamp does. Almost all of the new amps on the market have gotten rid of these inputs, as "no one listens to vinyl anymore". You don't need one with a PHONO input though, you just need a good 2-channel amp to power your speakers.

If you don't want to spend much, the Lepai LP 2020 is probably the best bang for your buck. I'm using it right now with these Pioneer bookshelf speakers (very similar to yours) and they sound great. I don't have a recommendation for anything more powerful, but you won't really need anything more powerful unless you go with bigger speakers down the road. Don't forget to grab some speaker wire to wire it all up.

Have fun!

u/IV65536 · 2 pointsr/WindowsMR
u/razzmataz · 2 pointsr/pocketoperators

If it's a combined mic and headphone jack, you'll need a splitter. Something like this will do, and there are dozens on amazon that won't break the bank.

u/stereomatch · 2 pointsr/audio

I am copy-pasting the relevant portion from Help - Cosplay (from our audio recorder app which is for Android) - it relates to how to connect the earphone jack to an external microphone and external speaker - i.e. a setup suitable for cosplay (but will give you some idea of the options):


Capabilities of the earphone jack on Android devices

The earphone jack on your device has pins for 2 channel (stereo) output, and 1 channel (mono) input. This is the case for both Android devices and iOS devices. That is, you can only have mono microphone input. This is why headsets have stereo earphones, but only one microphones (mono).

Here is a website with a good explanation of the earphone jack on your android device, and what the pins on the jack are used for (stereo out and mono in) - see the section - External microphone through the headset port.

Audio Recording With a Smartphone

Recommendations for Y-splitter cables and external speakers

For the external speaker, one with a wired connection will work, and these cost from 5 USD to 10 USD.

Y-splitters are also cheap (1 USD to 5 USD), but finding ones that actually work is more difficult (since headphone splitters look very similar, or the Y-splitter is made incorrectly).

Here is a combination of Y-splitter and external speaker that is recommended by cosplayers (the external speaker comes with a wearable directional microphone suitable for cosplay). These are costly, but known to work:

Manufacturer direct order links:

Rockit Y-splitter - Cost 11.95 USD

VoiceBooster MR1505 (Aker) 12watt Voice Amplifier - SKU: MR1505-12W - Cost 54 USD

VoiceBooster MR1506 (Aker) 10watt Voice Amplifier - SKU: MR1506-10W - Cost 48 USD

Y-splitters available on Amazon (we have not tested these)

ENVEL 3.5mm Jack Cable Adapter Kit Mutual Convertors for PC headset and Smartphone Tablet Earphone with Headphone/Microphone Function Simultaneously Y Splitter Audio 2 Female to 1 Male (Cable) - Cost 5 USD Headset adapter for headsets with separate headphone / microphone plugs - 3.5mm 4 position to 2x 3 position 3.5mm M/F - Cost 7 USD

BEBONCOOL(TM) 3.5mm 4-Pin to 2x 3-Pin 3.5mm Headset Splitter Adapter M/F - Cost 6 USD

The same Aker speakers are available on Amazon:

VoiceBooster Voice Amplifier 12watts Black MR1505 (Aker) by TK Products, Portable, for Teachers, Coaches, Tour Guides, Presentations, Costumes, Etc. - Cost 64 USD

Y-splitters available on Ali Express (we have not tested these)

[Splitter Headphones jack 3.5 mm Stereo Audio Y-Splitter 2 Female 1 Male Cable Adapter with separate headphone / microphone plug - Cost 1.55 USD] (

Splitter Headphones 3.5 mm plug Stereo Audio Y-Splitter 2 Female 1 Male Cable Adapter with separate headphone microphone jack - Cost 3 USD

The same Aker speakers are available on Ali Express:

Aker MR1505 Waistband Portable Loud Voice Booster Amplifier Speaker VoiceBooster Amplifier 12watts for MP3 - Cost about 30 USD

Aker MR1506 Voice Amplifier 10watts Black for Teachers, Coaches, Tour Guides, Presentations, Costumes etc - Cost about 30 USD

u/rtm416 · 2 pointsr/xbox

Finally I get to go over my setup.

  1. Sennheiser HD598 Open Back
  2. Antlion Modmic
  3. Headphone/microphone splitter

    I have been using this setup since the XB1 came out and I couldn't be happier with it. Occasionally I have to replace the splitter, so I'd probably have an extra on hand. You're looking for one with a female mic and headphone jack to a male 3.5mm combo jack

    Edit: This seems to be the best splitter currently available.
u/EmperorNarwhale · 2 pointsr/Rainbow6

If you can, get a pair of headphones and a separate microphone. They will blow any "premium gaming headset" out of the water. Gaming headsets are typically closed-back headsets, which limits your sound stage. You'll want a piar of open-back headphones. They also have to cram a lot more inside the headphones which typically results in something being of lower quality.

It seems you're on Xbox one, so you'll need one of the controllers with a 3.5mm headphone jack.

If you're on PS4, you can use the same items I have listed, and if you're on PC you don't need the splitter.

One of the best pair of headphones you can get is this one. The Audio Technica ATH M50x.

Then get an antilion modmic. It attaches right to your headphones with no hassle.

Then get this thing so you can use the headphones and microphone on your xbox one controller. (Yes, it works on Xbox One.)

All you have to do is plug your headphones and microphone into the splitter, and your splitter into your xbox one controller. Way better than a gaming headset, and way cheaper too.

You can even get better earpads for better comfort, if you want.

u/DiamondRyce · 2 pointsr/NewTubers

Not sure but from my research I have seen the Boya By-M1 and Sony ECM-CS3 in other videos recommendations so either should work.

Then buy an TRRS adapter like this one

u/EvoKing789 · 2 pointsr/F13thegame

I would buy this item, it's super cheap

ENVEL 3.5mm Jack Cable Headset Adapter Kit Mutual Convertors for Laptop,Mac,PS4,Smartphone,Xbox One,Tablet Earphone with Headphone/Microphone Simultan

u/Syrch · 2 pointsr/xboxone

That is a TRS adapter, it splits one audio source into two. You can tell by the male end because it only has three rings, left, right, and ground.

What you want is a TRRS adapter which is left, right, microphone and ground. They look like the ones I've linked below.


And Here

u/wpmason · 2 pointsr/xboxone

This sounds a bit ridiculous. Don’t spoil your kid this way (I know you’re not breaking the bank, I mean it more like caving in to his every demand.)

First, what does a condenser mic look like?

Exactly. They come in all shapes and sizes.

Don’t buy anything for appearance, prioritize quality.

Secondly, the streamers he wants to emulate are, in a lot of cases, running pretty sophisticated setups with a lot of unseen equipment off camera.

If your kid is going to stream via the built in functionality on an Xbox, then compatibility comes to the fore, since USB mics need a bunch of extra stuff to work.

So where does that leave use...

Assuming they’re streaming via Xbox without a computer/capture card involved, then the first thing you need is a TRRS mic/headphone splitter cable like this.

That plugs right into an Xbox controller, and allows you to connect standard stereo headphones and a standard mic with a ⅛” plug at the same time.

It really opens up compatibility options.

The problem you’ll run into is that quality mics are expensive, and most of them require some sort of power source that complicates things.

A decent lapel mic (which won’t meet his appearance standards) will cost around $20.

A Blue Yeti (one of the most popular and versatile mics for Youtubers/streamers/podcasters) costs $100 by itself.

$300 mics are not uncommon.

So, between your budget and his desires, this may not work.

I can’t tell you enough how much serious research you should do before buying anything though.

u/blackdog2k · 2 pointsr/Roll20

Welcome! And, just in case, one thing you need to consider when shopping for a laptop to be used with skype/discord, or whatever, is what kind of headset or headphone/microphone setup you plan to use.

Quite a few modern laptops have a single combination 3.5mm audio/mic input. If this is the case (like with the higher-end ThinkPads), you may need an adapter/splitter like this to use a standard analog headset that has separate audio/mic cords.

Some laptops still have separate audio/mic jacks. Standard headsets or a headphone/microphone setup with separate audio & mic cords will work fine.

If you use a USB headset you don't have to worry about any of this, as they'll work as long as you have a free USB port.

Personally, I use a pretty cheap (but decent!) headset here that has separate audio/mic cords. My smaller X201 laptop has separate jacks, but when I use the headset with the combo jack on the T430S laptop I just use a splitter.

Just FYI!

u/nyelian · 2 pointsr/Surface

You need something like this splitter to convert the Surface's 4-ring jack to a regular microphone jack.

I'll tell you this: you're much better off with a USB microphone.

Something like this will also give you a real mic jack:

u/-bobles- · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

The cable that you plug into your computer is 3.5mm, but the other end is a left and right rca plug (red and white) that plug into the speaker. This is a 3.5mm to rca adapter. What you would do is buy 2 rca Y splitters and 4 rca cables (buy 2 sets of red and white for less confusion example:

What you do is unplug the rca end from the speaker and put a Y splitter on both the red and white rca ends of the adapter cable. Now plug your new rca cables into the Y splitters, make sure that both red cables go into the splitter on the red end of the adapter and that both white cables go into the splitter on the white end of the adapter. Now run one white cable and one red cable to the red and white inputs on your speaker. Run the other red and white cables to the red and white inputs on your sub.

Now the computer signal goes to both the speakers and the sub.

When I said split both channels, I meant put a Y splitter on both the red and white ends of your 3.5mm to rca adapter. Red is the right channel, white is the left channel.

As for you confusion about maintaining more quality. Because it is possible to put a splitter on just the left OR right channel, if you did this the sub would only play bass from the left or right channel. This means that if a song has bass frequencies playing in only the left channel, but your sub is only plugged into the right channel, your sub would not play those frequencies. I'm not saying that you will get better quality, I'm saying that you have to plug both red and white into your sub so that it plays all the bass it is supposed to.

The sub does not send a signal to the Edifiers. With the splitters, your computer sends 2 signals, one to the sub and the other to the Edifiers.

u/kf97mopa · 2 pointsr/macbookpro

That linked post in the edit is incorrect. Apple removed optical audio out, but there is still audio in. What you need is one of these:

That will give you the microphone-in port that you want (the pink one will be the microphone).

u/Travy93 · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Not sure about the headset. It should work in the 3.5mm jack? Not sure why you would need the adapter. It either works with Xbox One or doesn't.

EDIT: Ooooh wait. That headset has 2 separate wires for headset and mic right? Green and pink? That won't work on Xbox One. You don't need the $25 Microsoft adapter you need a Y adapter that will turn your two wires into one. Like this:

As for the extra hard drive you can get just about any USB 3.0 external drive and it will work. You could find a 1tb one for what looks like $50-60 on Amazon right now.

u/SupOrSalad · 2 pointsr/virtualreality

You can buy an adaptor that will combine both the two jacks so that it will work in a combo jack. Something like this

u/stabbitystyle · 1 pointr/PS4
u/Mordoci · 1 pointr/xboxone

I've gone through 3 of those since I've owned the headset. It's pretty annoying because I've never had any indication my splitter was going out either. Just playing games one day, set the headset down when I'm done, and whenever I pick it up again I'll either have no game sound or my mic wont work. These are the best ones I've found. They have lasted me about 7-8 months now with no issues

u/muec-de · 1 pointr/xboxone

The Same happened to me 2 or 3 weeks ago.
During Partychat, it stopped working and i wasn't able to Talk/listen.

I replaced the Splitter-cable which solved the problem for me.
If go for a new one, make sure It has 3 rings on the plug which connects to the Controller.
I use this one:

u/Ppur26 · 1 pointr/lowspecgamer

good to hear, I know lenovo's keyboards can be a bit strange, control key sometimes isnt bottom right, fn there instead on some models. As for mic input jack, they use a TRRS (mic and headphone combo) 3.5mm jack on it, you can buy a small cable adapter that puts a 3.5mm TRS mic in and a 3.5mm TRS stereo out into on single TRRS 3.5mm jack, something like this tps://

u/SACKBOT33 · 1 pointr/MLPLounge

My headset arrived Wednesday(a day early), so I was happy about that. I also have this arriving later today since my laptop doesn't have a microphone port.

u/ZedOud · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Oh I'm so sorry, I forgot about that.

Get two of these splitters.

Now use the F2F and M2M couplers and wires to split the headphone mic and connect it to a splitter that connect to the phone.

There, you have a bunch of wires, but it's cheaper then the other solutions.

Better yet, use this splitter on the headphone end and the former splitter on the phone end.

Total cost for my setup is $27, could be less depending on how you mix and match the wires.

Now, solved.

u/tecz0r · 1 pointr/timurskernel

Hey my apologize,

What I mean is, I want to use something like THIS essentially, so one end will go to the headunit that is already in my car acting as an AMP and the other end, I'll simply plug in a cheap microphone for simple Google Now commands.

Whilst at the same time, have an OTG cable plugged in for power and plugging in USB devices.

Is this something that is possible or do I have to output sound through USB into a DAC and then output DAC to headunit?

Sorry if I'm still being confusing, I can draw a diagram on MS Paint if need be.

u/Klvak · 1 pointr/PS4

so that sounds really awful. I was looking at your headset attachments and i see what you mean. I have a similar head set and I mean it sucks to have to buy additional components but you could buy:

then use that Y splitter to go between your control box and ps4 controller. (It is what I had to do but because my old Y broke)

u/KingLouisIXofFrance · 1 pointr/radio

I wonder if the TRRS adapter I bought is just faulty because this one is not working.

I'll probably play with the OBS software mentioned by other people.

u/smiller171 · 1 pointr/Stadia

No info at this time. I personally doubt it will, but a splitter is cheap. Something like this:

u/BlakagePackage · 1 pointr/AstroGaming

ENVEL 3.5mm Jack Cable Headset Adapter Kit Mutual Convertors for Laptop,Mac,PS4,Smartphone,Xbox One,Tablet Earphone with Headphone/Microphone Simultaneously Y Splitter Audio 2 Female to 1 Male

u/JClocale · 1 pointr/NoStupidQuestions

What you'll need to do is use a splitter designed to isolate speaker and microphone inputs. Check to make sure that the single end has 4 metal bands on the connector. Something like this will work. Then plug your PS Vita's output into the microphone input on the splitter. Be advised though, that microphone inputs are mono, so you only get a single channel (the Right channel to be specific).

You might be able to use something like this to further combine your stereo input from your Vita to a mono microphone input, but I'm not really sure if that will work. All the reviews seem to focus on using it the other way, as in mono audio output to stereo speakers.

Your iPhone should record the mono audio source as a "stereo" recording, i.e. the same track is recorded on both tracks. If not, you can copy the mono track to the other channel in an editing program.

u/compubomb · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

If you can afford it, pick up one of these to go along with your SMSL,, then you'll have additionally a usb dac + rca out's, and then you can really get going.. you might also consider picking up which will help fill in your little audio experience. takes a line-in & line-out back into your amp, and then you got sub-base as well. I love these rca cables, they sound amazing,

u/letmejustsee · 1 pointr/audiophile

I'm getting line noise when I connect my RCA cable from my amp to my powered speakers.

The cable is basically like a $0.99 RCA cable. Would this be solved if I got a shielded cable like this AmazonBasics one? Or do I need a twisted pair cable like this one? I know about 15% of what I'd need to know to understand what causes signal noise. So I couldn't tell if you twisted pair and shielded cables are even mutually exclusive... I already have a length of this speaker wire... is this (+ terminations) all I need?

Here's a diagram. The red port is the one that results in line noise when connected. (They're all plugged into the same outlet.)

u/Kesild · 1 pointr/audiophile

Just bought aJDS Atom and a Modi 2 uber for my akg k7xx. I haven't ever bought an amp/dac (previously used akg 240 with nothing) so I'm not to sure what set up to expect. I have about 6 days before that get to be and I don't really know if all I'll need is something like this . Would appreciate the help!

u/Prince_of_Darimar · 1 pointr/HeadphoneAdvice

Either get the JDS Labs Atom Amp and OL DAC ($200 + $15 shipping), or save a little bit of money and get a Monoprice Liquid Spark and a Massdrop Grace SDAC ($180 + free shipping). Either option is great, with the JDS Labs option being simpler to get a hold of (same online store) and the other option being slightly cheaper. Neither will disappoint, and both are a little bit better than a Schiit Stack.


JDS Labs option:


Other option:


Don't forget to get Amazon Basics RCA cables and a decent usb cable to hook them up.


For the OL DAC:


For the Grace SDAC:

u/burritosmash · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Thanks for the reply!

Got these as well: 2male-2male RCA cable and two Mediabridge Speaker Cable vs wire.

Should this do the trick?

u/RSR9357 · 1 pointr/hometheater

I meant if I took just one of these two cables from this pair, would it still work like a regular subwoofer cable? I already have an older version of this cable and thought I could maybe plug one side of the cable into the AVR and the other into the left RCA input in the back. Does that make more sense?

u/Pavlovs_Human · 1 pointr/PSVR

Okay so I've got a solution for you.

My girlfriend got me this headset about 2-3 years ago for my birthday, and it's still in perfect working order.

I DID have to buy a cheap little audio/mic converter dealy so that it would connect to my DS4. I think it was like $10-$15 at my local Best Buy. BUT if you find a similar converter on amazon and bundle the two together I'm sure you'd get free shipping and it'd be around 40-50 dollars EDIT: I am bad at math and it actually would come out to around $30, check the links I posted!

These are meant for PC so to me they feel like high end headphones, sound quality is great and the mic is very clear and has pretty good noise cancellation. I have my mic set to a little above normal and people still really can't hear any noises in my room other than me.

But you said yours don't fit over your Psvr, these ones adjust and fit VERY comfortably. I have a pretty large head, too. Plus, they match the colors of the PS4/Psvr!

I hope this helps! I can update with some pictures if you'd like, too!

Edit: I found a cable adapter that even matches the headsets cord pattern! There's another one that's all black if you don't like the pink/teal default jack colors.

So with the headset and this adapter, it comes out to around 30 bucks. And I can attest to the quality. They are amazing headphones!

u/omeganon · 1 pointr/xboxone

>Question is, how do I hook the Blue Yeti up to the One S (more specifically, via the controller)? There's a lot of videos of how to do so through the original One, but that controller is different from the S' controller.

I'm not sure what videos your watching but the only difference would be the need for the headset adapter on the older controllers. That's not needed on those controllers with the built in port. They are identical otherwise.

>There's a way to connect them so that I can both listen to in-game audio via headphones and also speak at the same time, right? If so, how? Any extra cables I might need?

Yes, you'll need a mic/headset splitter to ensure that the rings are mapped correctly to what's expected in the controller. For example, this one which claims to work with the console -

u/VairisLV · 1 pointr/AskTechnology

Could you please give me more information on, why should I use exactly this one and not ones like this or this

It just looks really bulky.


u/Scyer · 1 pointr/technology

It highly depends. If the laptop supports a 4 pole 3.5mm jack, which supports mic and headphones on one line like some phones, (the 3.5mm jack with 3 rings rather than two) then you can get adapters specifically for that such as this:

However, if the headphone jack only supports a 3 pole 3.5mm jack (standard for stereo headphones) then plugging in an adapter like this won't do a thing.

HOWEVER, a standard 3 pole to two 3 pole type of splitter WILL NOT WORK. Only thing that'll happen is you'll wind up blowing out the microphone's diaphragm as it tries to function as a speaker, which it's not designed to handle.

u/thirsty247 · 1 pointr/headphones

im trying to stream with my n3ds but this issue doesnt let me use my headphones while doing so and it only lets me have the 3ds bgm or my voice, never both, which is kinda bothersome since my current laptop only has 1 audio jack.

here's the link to the y splitter:

u/xpercipio · 1 pointr/ElgatoGaming

would something like this help? I use a TRRS splitter to put my mic into the controller, and record out the game chat.

u/solomoncowan · 1 pointr/CommercialAV

Here is the exact cable I have used before in the past. You want to make sure your gain stages are set correctly; Because the mic inputs on phones and tablets are pretty hot, and are designed to add gain passive mics. You'll more than likely have to turn the volume down going in to make sure your not clipping it..

u/amw173 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

You need something like this
To be the long term solution. In a pinch if you have two headphone sets you can use and have one be your mic and the other be your dedicated headphones that should work as well.

u/Jel-low · 1 pointr/PS4

So basically, you want audio from PS4 and PC? If your headset is like mine, buy a Y-splitter.

From there, use an external amplifier/soundcard like the Astro Mixamp Pro.
You connect the optical cable to the back of the PS4 for game audio, then using the Y-splitter connect your headset into the mixamp, then use a 3.5mm to 3.5mm stereo cable and plug that into MP3 port of the amp and your audio port on the PC. NOTE - Whichever source you plug the USB to power the Mixamp, will be where your mic is assigned to.

TLDR; Headset and Y-splitter go into an amp, optical cord goes into PS4 for audio, USB goes into PS4 for microphone, 3.5-3.5 stereo cable goes into mixamp and audio port for PC/laptop. This is my current set-up and it works beautifully.

u/trustmeimadr · 1 pointr/hometheater

you need this connector, fam:
basically any male RCA to female 3.5. you can get one in literally any shop that sells TVs, speakers, or audio devices (fryes, microcenter, radioshack, walmart...)

your TV has two audio out RCA ports (google them / RTFM), connect your adapter, red to red, white to white, then connect your male 3.5 to the female port

enjoy :)

edit: fixed link so it didn't have any partner referral links

u/crazydave33 · 1 pointr/miniSNES

Buy [this](HDMI Audio Extractor Splitter, One HDMI Input to HDMI Output + Optical SPDIF and RCA L/R Audio Out

I personally do not know if this work but technically it should. Might need another hdmi cable if you don't have one to go from the converter box to your monitor.

Then buy [this](C&E 30S1-01260 2 x RCA Male, 1 x 3.5mm Stereo Female, Y-Cable 6-Inch Gold Plated Connector Then you should be able to plug in your headset.

u/Genose · 1 pointr/audio

That's what I am thinking. Seems like this makes sense:

3.5mm Audio Splitter into Computer -> 3.5mm - 50 ft -> 3.5mm to RCA Adapter -> Analog to Digital Adapater -- like you recommended -> [Audio Optical Cable into TV]

My only question is that a lot of these converters show a TosLink port, and I do not have knowledge of what that is compared to a SPDIF. Are they compatible, or...?

u/Kerb3r0s · 1 pointr/pocketoperators

NP! You’ll want something like this to convert from RCA to 3.5

As far as recording, AudioShare seems to be the best. And it supports copy paste into into apps like GarageBand and Gadget

u/roburoll · 1 pointr/vinyl

OR you can use a phono pre-amp with a receiver which does not have phono input, this is the case with most newer receivers.

You are correct, the speakers must hook up to either the amp or receiver. If you are using computer speakers you'll need a converter [like this] ( and ensure the amplifier or receiver you choose has RCA output.

u/funkybunch907 · 1 pointr/mw3

Had a guy at radioshack help me out with this.

That's the main component, I also got an extended cable so I needed a male-male connection in addition. The entire set up cost me about 25 bucks. Using a pair of $25 skull candy's and the change was night and day for me.

u/MrFiskers · 1 pointr/headphones

By that I mean so I can run my headphones off of it. I would assume I cannot just have the Modi plugged in, but have my headphones plugged into my PC's onboard audio since those are two different playback sources on the PC.

When stacked, the Modi would plug through USB and connect to the Magni. But since I will not have a Magni or amp of any kind for a little bit I would just connect my headphones directly to the Modi with a Y-adapter like this, right?

u/mynameisalso · 1 pointr/24hoursupport

See where it says av out? If you want to test using headphones you need to buy this adapter

u/dkillone · 1 pointr/xbox360

If you've got the slim xbox, I recommend, Monoprice RCA/Toslink Audio Adapter and 2 x RCA Male to 3.5mm Stereo Female and then of course, just plug in your HDMI to monitor. Both extremely cheap(technically can even go about a dollar cheaper on the RCA cables, but shipping would be longer).

Total = $7.66

u/BigTinz · 1 pointr/XboxModding

No, it's not possible.

Just do this:

It's way easier than trying to mod something and less than $10.

u/cal1fub3ralle5 · 1 pointr/vinyl

Thanks for the reply.
My subwoofer only has a single 3.5 female input, would that mess anything up? I plan on getting this and using a 3.5 male to male to connect to the subwoofer.

u/Kawai_Oppai · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

They make passthrough cables. Also known as piggyback.

RCA Audio Piggyback Cable, 2 RCA Male to 2 RCA Male + RCA Female Piggyback, 6 foot

3.5mm to rca on the switch. Run it to the computer piggyback cable. And an adapter for your headphones.

Should cost at the very most, $15 for everything.

That’s the most versatile setup.

For even cheaper, if the computer has a line in, run a 3.5mm from the switch into the pc. And just use the headphone jack or audio out on the pc.

That’s like $5 solution.

Personally I prefer the first option, it works better with amps, dac, and higher end headphones.

u/upas · 1 pointr/Zeos

Would something like this also work?

u/SantoroMT · 1 pointr/DJs

aside from what /u/britty1983 mentioned, if you want to use the output to an external recorder you could pick up an RCA piggyback to run the output into the speakers and piggyback into something like this