Best audio amplifiers according to redditors

Thanks everyone. I'm glad to join the team and I think I've got a few ideas you will really enjoy. Currently mobile but I will update this post a bit later when I get home.

Time for a celebratory dram.

As requested, my build is below:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-2600K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | $269.99 @ Newegg
CPU Cooler | Corsair Hydro Series H50 Liquid CPU Cooler | $49.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | ASRock P67 Extreme 4 (B3) ATX LGA1155 Motherboard | $180.81 @ NCIX US
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $56.99 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $56.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $88.86 @ Outlet PC
Storage | Crucial M4 64GB 2.5" Solid State Disk | $62.99 @ Microcenter
Storage | Crucial M4 64GB 2.5" Solid State Disk | $62.99 @ Microcenter
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $149.98 @ NCIX US
Video Card | XFX Radeon HD 6950 2GB Video Card (CrossFire) |-
Video Card | Powercolor Radeon HD 6950 2GB Video Card (CrossFire) |-
Sound Card | Asus Xonar DG 24-bit 96 KHz Sound Card | $19.99 @ Microcenter
Case | Antec Nine Hundred Two V3 ATX Mid Tower Case | $123.84 @ Mac Connection
Power Supply | Corsair 650W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply | $114.99 @ Newegg
Optical Drive | Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer | $19.98 @ Outlet PC
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 (64-bit) | $130.20 @ Amazon
Mouse | Logitech G500 Wired Laser Mouse | $54.99 @ SuperBiiz
Keyboard | Ducky Shine Blue LED Cherry MX Blacks |-
Monitor| Viewsonic VX2439wm|-
Monitor| Yamakasi Catleap Q270 SE|-
External DAC| Behringer UCA202|-
Bling| LOGISYS Computer CLK12BL 12" Cold Cathode kit|-
Subwoofer| Dayton Sub-1000|-
Amp| AudioSource Amp-100|-
Speakers| Pioneer SP-BS21-LR 80 Watt RMS 2-Way Speakers|-
Headphones| ATH-M50S|-
| | Total
| Prices include shipping and discounts when available. | $1443.58
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2012-08-09 20:16 EDT-0400 |

Ducky on the old "desk"

more pics incoming... stay tuned while i find a real camera

Desk top and complete picture

So, I got rid of that low voltage regulator that was hard wired to that box, the cheap Amazon Amp I bought had a normal plug in 12v 3amp that I have plugged into the outlet. All the speaker around the house work. Here is the cheap amp I bought. http://amzn.com/B00ULRFQ1A

I havent upgraded all the other speakers yet. Just the base station and 1 room.

Great headphones, an absolute steal for $110. Just make sure you have the power to drive them; a $60 SD793-ii did the job for me.

Quick list of what you are looking at

• 3x Dell U2515H 1440p monitors
  
• Audeze LCD-2 headphones
  
• Gustard H10 headphone amp
  
• 2x Micca MB42x speakers
  
• SMSL SA50 speaker amp
  
• Sescom RCA switch
  
• Magicforce 68-key keyboard (MX Blues)
  
• Logitech G502
  
• PVElectronics Nixie Clock

There is some good and not so good advice in this thread. I hope to help you clear some things up.

Your turntable is a semi-automatic, direct drive with a static-balanced tonearm and P-mount (T4P) type cartridge.

Semi-automatic means it will automatically return to the tone arm rest when the record is finished playing. Direct drive means it uses a motor under the spindle, instead of a belt and pulley system, to spin the record platter. Static-balanced tone arm means the tone arm has a factory set counter weight that cannot be adjusted. T4P P-mount cartridges are a simple, easy to use and install cartridge. They have a standardized tracking force. Your table doesn't have adjustments for tracking force, cartridge alignment or anti-skating. Those are the trade-offs for ease of use.

Your current cartridge is the Radio Shack marketed version of the Shure M92e. I would recommend replacing the stylus for it, but replacing the whole cartridge shouldn't be necessary. If you decide you would like a better cartridge, there are a number of upgrades available. Here is a decent, inexpensive Swiss-made Pfanstiehl replacement styles (no affiliation, just a satisfied customer):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TURNTABLE-NEEDLE-STYLUS-SHURE-M92E-M99E-M104-N99E-N104E-/350420981609


You can get more information on your turntable from VinylEngine.com:

http://www.vinylengine.com/library/technics/sl-q200.shtml


As others have mentioned, you will need a phono preamp for your turntable. There are several relatively inexpensive options available. For a very entry level preamp, you can use the Behringer PP400:

http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-PP400-Ultra-Compact-Phono-Preamp/dp/B000H2BC4E

If you are willing to invest a little more, a better phono preamp is the ART DJ Pre II. In my opinion, it is the best value in the retail sub $200 preamp category. It is the one I use:

http://www.amazon.com/ART-II-Preamplifier-Output-Switchable/dp/B000AJR482


EDIT: Phone typo to Phono

Micca MB42x + SMSL SA50 + Chromecast = about $194. You'd also need some speaker cable, and a 3.5mm to RCA cable.

Fluance SX6 if you want to bump up the speakers.

https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-SUB-1200-12-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B00669L3HS

https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E7H8GG2

I suggest that 3 part combo. The amp lacks a sub out so run the outputs into the subwoofer, set the crossover to 80Hz, and connect the speakers to the outputs on the sub.

Sure, they are $120 new.

Alternatives:

Powered/Active: 4" Edifiers start at $70. Edifier R980T or larger 5" Swan D1080-IV $140 or Fluance Ai40 $200

Amp+Passive:

$53 Bundle 6-1/2" 2-Way Bookshelf Speaker Pair and Hi-Fi Mini Amplifier

Mini amps:

Kinter K2020A $33. SMSL SA50 $67, Dayton Audio DTA-120BT $75, Micca OriGain $80 or $100 with USB DAC, more at Zeos AMP and DAC guide.

Speakers:

AverageJoe's Speaker List

Polk Audio T15 $50

Micca MB42X $80

Pioneer SP-BS22-LR 4" Bookshelf Speakers (Pair) $68 or if sale is over, PIONEERSP-BS22-LR $90

Sony SSCS5 3-Way 3-Driver Bookshelf Speaker $73

DIY C-notes $100

Clearance sale dual 5.25" Polk Audio Monitor 40 Series $100

Speaker wire and self adjusting wire strippers or basic.

Subwoofer:

Franklin Audio FPS10 10" 100 Watt Powered Subwoofer $90 with $10 off coupon

Small budget stereo amps like SMSL 60 to 150 range or if budget real tight there is that Lepai 25 bucks

KEF Q100 ($250)

Micca AD250 DAC/Amp ($100)

Micca speaker wire ($20)

Dayton SUB-1000 ($120)

3.5mm to RCA cable (for sub) ($8)

Total: $498

This would be a solid, solid setup for really fantastic value.

JBL LSR305's

I'm not sure where you're located so this may not be applicable, but I recommend picking them up at American Musical Supply as they'll cost the same but they throw in a starter pack which includes a volume controller, isolation pads, and some cables.

I have mine paired with a SMSL SD793 and they sound awesome.

Also /r/Zeos is a great resource when I am in the market for anything audio related.

I built up my first "real" listening area and I am absolutely thrilled with how it all came together. Pretty standard C-Note build, I did do the .22uF capacitor mod on the crossover to bring the peak down from -20 dB to -40 dB.


C-Note speaker kit


Crossover PCBs


.22uF capacitor


Binding posts


SMSL SA50


Chromecast Audio

dont buy any sound cards - a dedicated DAC/AMP blows any on-board audio and sound card

this is better:

https://www.amazon.com/FX-Audio-Optical-Coaxial-Amplifier/dp/B072JJT7SF/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524049201&sr=8-2&keywords=fx-audio+dac-x6

​

and cheaper and works on windows/linux/mac without issues

​

Has Bluetooth, can hook up to tv or pc

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/sony-2-0-ch-stereo-receiver-with-bluetooth-black/6187501.p?skuId=6187501

can hook up to tv, pc and has bluetooth and headphone amp

https://www.amazon.com/Topping-MX3-Bluetooth-Headphome-Amplifier/dp/B075SYC4Z5

Yes, you will need a separate amplifier, as well as speaker wire and banana plugs (banana plugs optional, gives a cleaner look). One like this would work well:

https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-Audio-R-S202BL-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B01EMQI2CU

Budget Options:

https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter-Silver/dp/B00F0H8TOC?th=1&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-SA-36A-TPA3118D2-Amplifier-Black/dp/B017W13OR0

Extreme Budget Option:

https://www.amazon.com/Lepy-LP-2020A-Digital-Amplifier-Stereo/dp/B00C2P61FO

Speaker wire and banana plugs:

https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10239&cs_id=1023904&p_id=14915&seq=1&format=2

https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=104&cp_id=10401&cs_id=1040115&p_id=2801&seq=1&format=2

Get a pair of bookshelves and a Chromecast Audio for each room. The music playing can be synced with Chromecast. You could probably do 3 rooms with $500.

Here's an example of what you could get:

3 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A2QLGEQ/

3 x https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00E7H8GG2/?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1481779004&sr=1-1&keywords=mb42x

3 x http://www.bestbuy.com/site/google-chromecast-audio-black/4532100.p?skuId=4532100

1 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BWS7HY6/?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O3A/?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Went a bit over budget, oh well.

This is what you are going to do

SMSL Q5 Pro Digital Amplifier - $120

ELAC - Debut B6 - $280

total: $400

leaves $200 from your budget to get cables, wall mounts for speakers, or a subwoofer. Or just put it all into bigger speakers.

With this setup you still have good viewing of the fireplace, but the entertainment system is not compromised. Also it leaves room for growth.

Or you can go here and mix and match whatever looks good to you.

I went the route of a cheap amp and Chromecast Audio for each zone:

• https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZSEFU94?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title
  
• https://store.google.com/us/product/chromecast_audio
  
  You need to use apps that support casting audio, but most apps do (Spotify, YouTube, pandora, etc). Apple Music is a no-go but that’s not surprising. The google home app lets you set up cast groups- so you can play zones independently or in whatever groups you want. I have “master suite”, “great room,” and “whole house” groups set up, for example.
  
  The other nice thing about these amps is that the auto sensing input works fine with the Chromecast audio’s line level output, so you don’t waste power running the amp with no input.
  
  One potential wrinkle is that you want to play TV as well... that could significantly complicate matters. I chose not to have the ability to distribute TV audio. My surround amp actually has a built in Chromecast so I could add it as a zone to the whole home audio system, but it was rather complicated to distribute TV audio out to other rooms of the house (possible, but difficult). I personally figured I wouldn’t need that often so didn’t build for it.
  
  The only other change I did was remove the in-wall volume controls. They are nice, but were old and damaged and distorting the sound in odd ways. I set the amp volume to the max I’d want, and just use the Chromecast volume for any adjustments (which is cool too because my google home can turn it down too!).
  
  Hope that gives you alternate ideas!

You need an amp. Get something simple like this:
Lepai LP-2020TI Texas Instruments TPA3118 Hi-Fi Stereo Audio Mini Amplifier with Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071FJF4FF/

I've always found that those systems with the subwoofer rely too much on the sub, which makes everything boomy. Others might have different experience, but i'd suggest going with something that is just 2.0. In that budget, i think you could find the m-audio av30 or something similar.

Another idea is to get a Dayton DTA-1 and a set of Dayton B652 speakers. I have this in my bedroom right now and it is perfect for music. Very well balanced..

If you do want that subwoofer, people on here have said good things about the klipsch promedia 2.1 set, which is a little over your budget, but you might be able to find used/refurb deals online.

Skip the dac for now. Spending $70 on a dac but $40 on speakers is ridiculous. There are cheaper, smaller dacs out there as well. And that one has a phono preamp, which is pointless if you aren't incorporating a turntable.

I'd recomend a more powerful amp as well for better sound. Something like an smsl 36 at least. The 50 is a step up I started with the micca mb42x for speakers. Speakers are the most important part. If your budget is this tight I'd probably even skip the sub for now too. Start with a quality amp with quality speakers. Then you can look for a sub. THEN you can think about a dac. I got fiio e10K to use mainly as a headphone amp. The DAC really wasn't a noticeable improvement over my laptops sound. So I will be selling it.

Depends on the type of setup you're looking for, the most common of which are 2.0, 2.1, or 5.1 (or more).

For simple stereo music listening, you'd need a 2 channel amplifier, (such as a the small and very inexpensive but decentish Lepai, or better the SMSL SA-50, or a full size receiver such as this Pioneer) and a way to play and input your music.

For that you could use your computer and an Aux cable, or you could use your phone and an inexpensive bluetooth receiver. This would be a 2.0 system (2 main speakers only, no sub).

You may wish to add a subwoofer for better reproduction of low frequencies. As the subs usually come with their own amplification, but accept high level (already amplified) inputs, you can just wire them together from the amplifier. This would be a 2.1 system.

Plus you need speaker wires and maybe wires for input (like Aux) depending on your setup.

For Home Theater plus music, you'd want a Home Theater receiver such as this Denon, that plays at least 5.1 channels (the .1 is for the subwoofer. This will give you a setup to power Left and Right front speakers, a Center Channel, plus 2 surround speakers. You still need a way to play your source, such as a CD player.

As u/smackdaddies pointed out, you could get four of these Pioneer speakers, plus the related center channel and a sub, plus the receiver, for under $500. It would be a pretty great sounding (budget) 5.1 system.

Once you decide on the type of setup you're interested, we can help you choose items here on r/BudgetAudiophile.

To build a system using the minimum recommendations from this sub, let's start with this diagram: http://i.imgur.com/Z8FMJ.png
DAC is optional, so is a subwoofer but I recommend one.

DAC: Behringer UCA202 $29.99 Link: http://amzn.com/B000KW2YEI

Amplifier: SMSL SA-50 $68.99 Link: http://amzn.com/B00F0H8TOC

Subwoofer: Dayton Audio SUB-800 $99.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B0063NU30K

Bookshelf Speakers: Micca MB42X $89.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B00E7H8GG2

Wire: 16-gauge Speaker Wire $8.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B006LW0WDQ

With DAC, this cable: Stereo Male to 2 RCA Male $5 Link: http://amzn.com/B00I0HPK6O

Without DAC, this cable: Monoprice 105597 3-Feet Premium Stereo Male to 2RCA Male $5 Link: http://amzn.com/B0094A1F3S

This is a great starter system, I would have loved to had something like this starting out.
All of these pieces can be upgraded, do your research. Look for sales etc. Good luck and have fun.

I've built a bunch! Those instructions are fine. Only thing I'd change is I'd use a round speaker terminal cup in step #14, rather than the square one they show in the picture. Something like this in other words. Just because it's easier to cut a round hole -- you can just use a round circle cutting bit in your drill. You can get them for as low as like $2ea on Amazon or elsewhere.

> Do I need an amplifier?

Something like a cheap Lepai is fine.

A "real" amp like this or this or a used home theater amp for $50 from Craigslist will more or less get the full 100% of performance from the Overnight Sensations at higher volumes. A small Class D amp like this is a good compromise IMHO.

All of those amps ought to sound the same at low volumes. For "desktop listening" where you're sitting a few feet away, the Lepai should get plenty loud.

> Do I need a digital to audio converter?

Probably not. With the possible exception of the Lepai, all the amps I linked to have a dual RCA audio input. The typical "red and white audio inputs" you've surely seen in many places. All you need is a basic headphone-to-RCA adapter like this, assuming your music playing thingy has a headphone jack.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105597-3-Feet-Premium-Stereo/dp/B0094A1F3S/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1483958406&sr=8-4&keywords=headphone+to+rca

I'm still rocking a 60 gig, gen 2 ipod from back in the day. It holds a charge for a solid 30 min. Just don't forgot to plug it before the battery dies, as it will get stuck in a boot loop on reboot. If that happens, no worries, it'll eventually turn on again for reasons unknown to me.

Here are some pics with a quarter for scale:

Back (60gb) -
Front -
Side

But now the true INSANITY of the setup. I rock that ancient artifact with these babies. Standard issue, free at seminar, google IEMs. The replaced my exclusive American Red Cross earbuds. This abominable marriage, accompanied with the most excellent 50gigs of 96kbps mp3s, is my running setup. Sometimes it gets weird.

But seriously now, I think these giveaways are cool. I have pretty decent mid level headphone setup for my nice, quiet, critical listening times. I've been looking to venture out of the headphones into stereo setups a little bit, so it's cool that those monitors are the giveaway for this contest!

As far as next months giveaway, I think an amp like this would be pretty cool. Also, I don't know how anyone else would feel about this, but have you thought about giving away software at all? Maybe a few copies of dBpoweramp would be cool. Shipping would obviously be easy, too.

You'll need an amp to power the speaker, so that's something you should keep in mind.

Either that, or try to find some powered monitors for $600.

For example, two KRK Rokit 8's will achieve pretty deep bass at 45 Hz, and are self powered. They also fall within your budget. http://www.amazon.com/KRK-RP8G2-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B001A6IGDG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1376426453&sr=8-3&keywords=rokkit+krk

Or, you could buy the Audiosource AMP-100 50 wpc amp. $100 http://www.amazon.com/AudioSource-AMP-100-Stereo-Power-Amplifier/dp/B00026BQJ6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1376426626&sr=8-3&keywords=amplifier

That would leave $500 for a pair of speakers. Since you're looking for party speakers with a lot of sound, you might just want to check out Cerwin Vega. They aren't really audiophile quality, but they should make lots of noise.

Two of these might do the trick for $400 total: http://www.amazon.com/Cerwin-Vega-VE-8-2-Way-Audio-Speaker/dp/B000EHYHJY/ref=sr_1_5?s=aht&srs=2529137011&ie=UTF8&qid=1376426810&sr=1-5&keywords=cerwin+vega

A pair of these JBL speakers might also do the trick for $400 for the pair: http://www.amazon.com/JBL-ES80BK-3-Way-Floorstanding-Speaker/dp/B00166ZFXO/ref=sr_1_4?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1376426922&sr=1-4

If it's your first TT and you're just getting started, /r/vinyl recommends this one. I've been happy with mine, although I do plan to upgrade in the future. If your budget is a little higher, I've heard good things about this one.

The one I plan on eventually getting is this guy.

I really like the Chomecast Audios.
I use them with these amps
and these speakers 1 2
. All work really well together

Here are some thoughts on this.

1. Using two Bose speakers isn't going to work well and will be expensive.
   
   
2. You'll be better off with a soundbar...yep I know bring the hate but of the two it's the better option.
   
   
3. $200 is going to be hard but if you have variable RCA audio outputs then you can put together a budget 2.0 setup. You'll want to check your TV.
   
   Here are a few options to consider.
   
   

• Soundbar - Yamaha YAS-107 $200, Yamaha ATS-1060 refurb $130 - These Yamaha's sound good on their own except for the extreme low end. However, they have the ability to add in a power subwoofer to them. I like this because the sub is not proprietary and can be used with future systems. If you're in a smaller space these will actually do alright on their own.
  
  
• Soundbar - Sony HTCT80 $100 - Basic soundbar with a wired sub (my preference for simplicity) that will sound much better than the TV. Is this a great solution no but it will work and is very cost effective. For music it's going to be muh but for HT use in a small room it will do fine.
  
  
• 2.0 - SMSL Q5 Pro amp $130, Micca MB42x speakers $90 and speaker wire- Slightly over budget but this will get you on the path to a much better system. This amp has an optical input so you can use it with any TV. The bookshelf speakers can be spread out to get you a better soundstage. The low end will lack but you can fix that later with a sub. You'll also need either an RCA cable to 3.5mm or an optical cable to get the signal into the amp.
  
  
• 2.0 - SMSL SA-50, speaker wire (above) $10 and a set of BIC DV62 $120 - Larger speakers will get you better bass but you'll have to see if you have space for them. You'll also need to have those variable analog audio outputs and an RCA cable to feed the amp.
  
  
• 2.1 - This is going to be tight and you'll need the analog outputs from the TV but this will get you good results. Lepai 168HA $30, BIC DV32 $60, Dayton Sub800 $100, and some speaker wire $10. You'll also need an RCA cable (those are cheap).

don't get a Crosley. the sound quality is awful and the needles will scratch your records. don't get anything with built in speakers

I have an Audio Technica AT-LP60. You will need to buy speakers, a pre-amp, and speaker wire separately, however. Here are the links for my exact setup, which does really well for me:

http://www.amazon.com/Technica-AT-LP60-Automatic-Stereo-Turntable/dp/B008872SIO?th=1&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009IUIV4A/ref=pd_aw_sim_23_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41VzGIA31cL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C100_&refRID=0J2MN8S0YCF0Q5TG212Z

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ULRFQ1A/ref=pd_aw_sim_23_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=41phZQk-zFL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C100_&refRID=1GGVDRVMDR9W92VB0BTV

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006LW0WDQ/ref=pd_aw_fbt_23_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=07TNM6NMM0YNRV6JH45F

while this whole setup is about $30-$40 outside of your price range, it's well worth it.

Honestly, amps are one of the things that you're not going to get better quality for your your $ if you DIY.

DIY for fun, to learn or because you want to build something specific/oddball (like a 3 channel setup that I did once). If those are your goals by all means find a DIY project.
But, the fact you specifically stated you're looking for a cheap amp to power those speakers makes me think you're just looking for a cheap amp.

Also, spending that much money on an amp ($200) for a pair of speakers worth $130 is a bad way to spend your money to be honest. 50/20/20/10 budget split is the rule, speaker/room treatment/amp/everything else and when you can't or don't want to treat the room, then that budget goes into the speaker.

Get yourself an SMSL SA-50 for $66. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A2QLGEQ/

It has an optical out so if you want a cheap dac/amp combo you could use the SMSL SD 793II and if your PC has an optical out you can use it with that too.

http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-SD793-II-PCM1793-DIR9001-Amplifier/dp/B00A2QLPJM

Also according to this thread on gamefaqs

http://www.gamefaqs.com/boards/691087-playstation-4/69310423

It does support USB dacs but I have no experience with this so you should do more research.

As for the 'flat' sounding of headphones I'm fairly certain the 598's are fairly efficient though I think an amp could possibly help tighten the bass region due to the 300ohm peak at 100hz IIRC.

http://www.innerfidelity.com/images/SennheiserHD598.pdf

Something like E10k also has a bass boost which may be helpful if you find them too bass light. But that's usb so you should do research on that.

http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2

You mentioned that you want to upgrade at some point. The way to do that would be with passive speakers and an amp.

First, the amp. The Topping MX3 will do the trick for you.

Next, a subwoofer. The Dayton SUB1200 is the go-to budget subwoofer.

You're left with around $350 for speakers. There are quite a few options. I'll highlight a few.

Elac Debut B6.2. These have a decent amount of bass and overall a neutral sound.

Ascend CBM-170. These are just a tad on the bright side. The midrange is great on them though.

HSU HB-1 MK2. A super fun speaker in my opinion. They're very neutral speakers. The bass is fast and punchy, and the top end has that sparkle that a lot of people look for.

Wharfedale Diamond 225. These speakers are very warm and easy to listen to. They have a soft dome tweeter that is very relaxed. You get all the detail of any of the other speakers, but it is just a bit recessed. I love these speakers for their midrange. It is so sweet and warm. It just pills you in and is super relaxing. Vocals sound especially fantastic.

That should be a good start!

I advocate using component bookshelves speakers with a mini amp unless space is at a big premium. They are better engineered, have better bang for your buck, and have a much cleaner sound.

You have the added bonus that the speakers are more flexible for other uses and, if you wanted to go from 2.0 to something else, it's a pretty easy upgrade, ala: you don't have to pitch the old system and get something new. I think you'd find a good 2.0 system to be much more impressive than a lot of the gamer sound systems out there.

Polk Audio T15 Bookshelf Speakers

Dayton Audio DTA-1 Digital Amplifier

Amazon Basics Speaker Cable

Another note: A system like this will sound way fuller without a boominess that you'd get from most gaming 2.1 sound systems. All of my friends that I have recommended go this route have loved it!

https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1484858805&sr=1-2&keywords=smsl

https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00E7H8GG2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1484859060&sr=1-1&keywords=mb42x

https://www.amazon.com/Generic-F8V235-12-3-5mm-cable-12-Feet/dp/B01K9SCY88/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1484859089&sr=1-7&keywords=stereo%2Bto%2Brca&th=1&psc=1


/done

That's interesting, but unfortunately most of these builds are DIY and lack any sort of standardization, so you'll have to do most of the heavy lifting in order to figure out what you have, as well as what you need.

As to your first point, you probably do need some sort of room selection, as well as a) an amplifier which powers the speakers, and b) either a single streaming platform (e.g. Chromecast Audio, Sonos Connect, etc.) to send signal to all speakers, or multiple streaming platform to send signal to individual speakers or rooms.

As to your second question, that depends on how you want to answer the above questions, and on how they're set up. As I mentioned, there probably isn't much standardization between this build and others, so I would start this whole process by getting a basic amplifier (Lepai 2020 is fine for this purpose) and going through each wire in that bunch as well as each pair of connectors in the garage (see below). Turn off the amp, hook up a pair of speakers, turn on the amp, play something, track down the sound, label the wires by room (colored electrical tape), stop playing, repeat.

After you figure out how the speakers, wires, and wall panels are connected, you can work on picking out an amplifier, a streaming platform, and a room selection device. I would budget $1000 for this, but it can probably be done for less. If you don't want to spend that right now (understandable), you can probably wire up one room to a Chromecast Audio and an SMSL SA50 (non-plus) for less than $100 if that room has a priority (see below).

As to your last question, those are probably banana plugs. Just another termination for speaker wire, not a big deal in the context of the rest of this. If you need banana plugs, Amazon or Monoprice have them for basically nothing.

The most basic set-up for whole home audio you could have is this speaker selector, this amplifier, and this streaming device. Probably $250 for the full home, or more if you have more than 4 rooms wired.

Alternately, if you want to be able to play two different streams in two rooms simultaneously, you could put this streaming device and this amplifier in the ceiling of each room. Google Home allows for CCAs to be combined into groups rather flexibly- you could put Kitchen-Living Room- Bathroom in one group, and Bedroom 1-Garage in another, and Living Room- Bedroom 1 in another, and every CCA you have in yet another, and still have the ability to play music in any one room on its own. Very nice system, but doing this is realistically $100 per room. If you don't mind limiting yourself to pairs of rooms, you can cut down on this cost by adding a four-channel room selector to this chain.

High-end receivers also may contain their own multi-room, multi-source implementations, but you're typically limited to two rooms, and two sources. Add in two splitters like this and you can expand that capability out to two groups of four speakers, but those groups would be less flexible than the CCA setup above. This setup is $500.

http://www.amazon.com/Tripath-TPA3123-Stereo-Amplifier-Supply/dp/B008YBC172/

http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-TDA7492-Integrated-Tripath-Amplifier/dp/B00F0H8TOC/

http://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00E7H8GG2

http://www.amazon.com/Mordaunt-Short-Alumni-Bookshelf-Speakers-Black/dp/B0049APO8U

http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-TSi100-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00192KF12

http://www.fluance.com/product/SX6_High_Definition_Two_way_Bookshelf_Loudspeakers.eng-12.html

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SP-BS22-LR-Designed-Bookshelf-Loudspeakers/dp/B008NCD2LG

http://www.amazon.com/Fostex-PMO-4-W-4-Inch-Personal-Speaker/dp/B00CYNT8XG

http://www.amazon.com/Alesis-Elevate-Speakers-Elliptical-Waveguide/dp/B00F3F7OIS

SMSL SA50 ($67): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_RthDDbDAZR43F


Micca MB42X ($79.95): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E7H8GG2/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_UAhDDbJYN7S0D


Comes in right under your budget, and plenty of people on these forums have been happy with that setup (I have no experience personally with the amp or speakers).

From what I understand, the audio is streamed to the controller via Bluetooth. The controller itself probably has a poor DAC, and it's amping capabilities are probably lackluster. Try using this with a SPDIF cable from your PS4.

What about the Micca Covo-S?

Though you'd also need an amplifier with those. You could easily get by with a Lepai Amp though.

Is an amp needed in that price?
Look into either of thede speakers:
Dayton Audio B652 6-1/2-Inch 2-Way Bookshelf Speaker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002RMPHMU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_B3ekzbXR3T0AD

Micca MB42 Bookshelf Speakers With 4-Inch Carbon Fiber Woofer and Silk Dome Tweeter (Black, Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009IUIV4A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_E4ekzb11C5YZJ

With this amp:

Lepy LP-2024A+ Hi-Fi Audio Amplifier Stereo Power Amplifier Car Amplifier with Power Supply, 3A Power https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ULRFQ1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_u5ekzbPS4WWVE


That's about as good of a low budget system as possible, while still being a foray into hobby/enthusiast audio equipment. Unless you want to look into used stuff. Going use can get you a really good set up for price but take more work to find but is hard to recommend.

The Lepy amplifier - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ULRFQ1A/ref=pd_aw_fbt_23_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=H5GJH4RDGYM655TC5FA6 - is small, sounds great (many audiophiles recommend it), and has a 3.5mm jack input so is perfect for a Chromecast Audio. You can just leave it on.

I have this amp, along with a set of Wharfedale Diamond bookshelf speakers.

I'd really recommend using a proper Chromecast Audio rather than an in-built solution: easy to swap out to something else when the time comes.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ULRFQ1A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469833807&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=t+amp&dpPl=1&dpID=41phZQk-zFL&ref=plSrch


I think there is something in the sidebar about this....

I have one of these and leave it on all the time. Low power, amazing sound.

I would personally look for something with a little more power. If i remeber right, 45w @ 4 ohms is really like 25w @ 8 ohms (which is what those speakers are). And you really cant get all your wattage out of those little amps without adding distortion anyways. Parts Express has the Dayton Audio DTA-120 on sale right now, for 85$. Its 40w @ 8ohm. There's also the APA100 (made by many manufacturers), and the Dayton APA150 for a little more. Or any 2.1/5.1 Receiver would be a better bet imo.

The Q5 Pro is a cool little amp (I use one myself), but it lacks in the power department.

As for the sub, you are correct. You dont need anything to power it.

That's a crazy deal on those towers, btw. I'm tempted to pick some up myself, haha

It'll be cheaper to run a 7.2 receiver that has the ability to process 9 channels and add a 2 channel amp for the atmos speakers. You could use this refurbished Denon AVR-X4200W and this Audiosource Amp 100VS.

If you want a single piece of equipment: Yamaha RX-A2050 when it comes back in stock. You could get the 2060 if you don't want to wait.

Last option would be getting the Denon AVR-X4200W I mentioned before with a better stereo amp such as the Emotiva A-300. Then use the external amp for your main L/R speakers and use the 7 channels of amplification on the receiver for the rest of the setup.

You could absolutely use those. Don't worry about the max ratings.

https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-2020TI-Instruments-TPA3118-Amplifier/dp/B071FJF4FF/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505763906&sr=8-3&keywords=amplifier

Currently I'm using this which is overkill for these speakers, but I got it for a good price and I wanted something that could comfortably power beefier speakers down the line.

The old recommendation was to get a Lepai 2020a, but since those no-longer use the Tripath chips, I'd go with something like the SMSL SA36 or SA50.

> I am looking into the Z625 right now.

Nope, no... no.

Don't buy Logitech, seriously.

Here's an alternative suggestion:
SMSL-50

Micca RB42's!

u/Polypeptide147 will be able to sing the praises of these speakers... the system I described will perform much better than those crap Logitech 2.1 systems.

Okay, fine, I went over your budget by $10... but I promise you, it's worth it! Friends don't let friends buy Logitech.

$300 for 2.1?

Bookshelf speakers: Pioneer BS21

Amplifier: AudioSource AMP100 runs 50w at 8ohm. It will be plenty clear and loud.

Subwoofer: Dayton SUB-100 - 100w powered subwoofer

spend the rest on speaker wire and shipping. You're going to want to plug your source into the amplifier via a 3.5mm to RCA cable. Then wire the amplifier into the subwoofer. Wire out of the subwoofer to the speakers and that's it.

I have the same speakers & subwoofer, but a different amp (similar power rating). It sounds really good if everything is positioned well. Enjoy.

Honestly--buy one of these. Guaranteed it will be as good or better.

Be sure that if your record player does not come preamplified, you will need a preamplifier to give it the output it needs to be at the proper line level output. I got this little guy and it works perfect from my turntable to my ZP90 that's set up to my computer's speakers!

Honestly, unless you were to use a Class A amp (which runs at full throttle no matter what), it's probably not worth worrying about.

I bought this class T amp, and although it doesn't have auto-off, the idle power consumption is absolutely negligible. I can't tell the difference between on or off with my Kill-A-Watt, which is accurate down to 0.1 watt. I pretty sure the same is true of all Class T amps; they really don't use any power unless they're actively making sound. Mine is perched on top of my kitchen cabinets and has been on for the past year.

I found the same thing with my subwoofer. Although it has an auto mode, it would keep turning on and off at very low volumes. I measured how much extra power it would use if I forced it to always be on. No difference whatsoever, 0.2 watts either way.

Wow this was a really helpful post, especially to beginners like me! Thanks so much! While I don't have a problem with noise or volume currently, I was thinking of buying something budget friendly like the SybaSonic SD-DAC63057 in order to have basically an external soundcard on my desk. Currently I have to drape the short cord of these Phillips across my body to my PC on my right, and the cord is just plugged in to the top/front audio jack. It would be nice to have an easy-to-use USB DAC/amp on my desk to my left so I can have easier cord management, sound out of my PC to eliminate any risk of interference, and a nice analog volume control to boot :) but I will DEFINITELY keep this post saved if/when I upgrade to the next step :D

My Encore mDac has been working intermittently as of late. I have the pleasure of listening to headphones for about 6 hours of my work day, so having a DAC/Amp combo at my desk is nice. However, with a 4 week old baby, my budget was super limited. I came across the Syba Sonic SD-DAC63057 and decided to give it a try. It checked all the boxes. Cheap ($37). No driver install needed (work computer, can't install anything). Enough power (100mw) to drive my IEMs and more sensitive over ears. USB only power.

Full specs can be found here

The unit features variable line outs, top mounted volume knob, optical out, coax digital out, usb in (for power and signal), mic input, 3.5mm input, 3.5mm headphone out, and 1/4" headphone out (both headphone outputs work simultaneously.

The unit has indicator lights to show what signal is being received (96, 44, or 44.1), and an indicator light of sorts that flashes with the music, that comprised of a red and blue LED. Kind of neat.

The unit also features a hardware EQ that includes a 7db (yes, 7db!) treble boost, a direct no EQ option, and a 7db bass boost. The hardware EQs are a bit much for me, and I find I leave the unit set to direct most of the time. However, there is one expectation. I have set of custom reshelled Ultimate Ears Triple.Fi 10's, and in the process, the treble took about a 6db drop. So, for that one set of CIEMs, the treble boost is just right. However, that is a pretty oddly specific scenario, and I would imagine most people won't want to use the hardware EQ.

Of note, the device is always on, as there is no power switch. The volume knob has the most minute channel imbalance as the absolute lowest setting. And, there is an uncomfortable audible crackle / pop when plugging in sensitive headphones to the 3.5mm headphone out. All be it, it doesn't seem to be enough to damage anything.

I have successfully used the Syba Sonic DAC/Amp with my Chromebook, MacBook Air, and my Windows 7 work PC. I have not tried it on a Windows 10 device, but after scouring the Amazon “reviews” it seems that it may not play nice with all Win10 installs so YMMV. As the unit is not battery powered, it won’t work with mobile devices.

When compared head to head with my Encore mDac, the Syba Sonic unit sounds a tad better. The bass is a bit fuller and the treble has just a hair more sparkle. Detail representation is on par, if not better than anything in this price range. All in all, for $37 I am super pleased with the purchase. I love the design with the volume knob on top. And the fact that the RCA outs are variable makes this a great option for those that want a budget option to use with powered monitors.

I have run the unit, as mentioned, with my CIEM reshelled TF.10's, as well as with my UM3X, Fischer Audio FA-003 wooden cup over ears, NAD VISO HP50's, AKG K7XX, and handful of other mid-range to lower IEMs. I did find that it struggled a bit to run the K7XX with any authority, but all the other headphones / IEMs I have tried have worked just fine. The only other negative is that, with the volume knob at full tilt, there is an audible hiss on most sensitive headphones (read: 32ohm and below).

I would recommend this unit for anyone with a tight budget that wants a somewhat feature rich DAC/Amp. It would also make a great external sound card thanks to the mic input.

Studio monitors, or powered monitors in general can work great in a 2.0 or 2.1 system. Broadly, they will be much more "hi-fi" than the Pro Media's will be; but also more expensive, especially when you factor in adding subwoofer.

The Klipsch's run ~$140 retail, and at that price you can begin to build a solid budget 2.1 set up.

There a few good solutions at this point, my personal favorite would be:

• Infinity Primus p143 bookshelf's Sold individually, but when they go on sale on amazon you can get them for 35-40 each ~$80
  
  
• SMSL SA-50 amp ~$70
  
  This puts you @ $150
  
  Adding this sub would get you up to $230 but also complete a system that would be world better than the Klipsch or anyother 2.1 system commonly used for computers.
  
  
• Dayton Sub-800 ~$80
  
  
  

Probably the $72 Orb Audio Mini T or the $68 SMSL SA50. I read reviews on the Lepy amps on amazon and they seem not-so-good even though it's a tempting $40. So I'm looking in the ~$70 range. Leaning towards the orb audio since it has a 3.5mm for convenience sake (and a subwoofer connecter, idk if that's useful for miccas).

Probably a u turn with a phono preamp and a good set of active speakers. If you want passive speakers get this for an amp. http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-TDA7492-Integrated-Tripath-Amplifier/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1427739491&sr=8-7&keywords=speaker+amp

You could pick up a little T amp. I have this one but there are cheaper options available. That only has two outputs and just a knob for volume control. Itd be good for testing them out and music for parties, etc but not realistic for TV watching since you'd have to get up to change the volume.

Everyone is going to tell you to get a receiver. Youre at the opportunity where you can dive into the home theater world and, if you have the funds, you won't regret it.

What your looking for is called a DAC/Amp. I like this SMSL.

A lot of people like the Schiit Fulla 2, but I have the Fulla 1 and can honestly say it's a piece of crap, so I'm not sure I can recommend it. The fulla 2 is much different, it could easily be better.

You really don't need much more than that. I usually spend ~$500 on headphones but I don't see any reason to spend more than $100 on a DAC amp.

There might be something to be said about getting higher end amps with high impedance headphones, but I've never wanted more than my Schiit modi/magna stack, even with high impedance headphones.

> Better than built-in TV speakers, cheaper than a 2.1 setup

That's not setting a high standard. If you have analog output from your TV, get a small amp for $70, and a pair of bookshelf speakers for $130, and you'll get far better sound quality than this soundbar.

First step: have you read noaudiophile's reviews? He does very thorough reviews on a lot of budget speakers, and has corrections for many of the popular options. His corrections for the Infinity P163s that I'm currently using made them sound like completely different speakers.

First let's start with powered options:

The Micca PB42X would be a good option. They are basically a powered version of the MB42X so you don't need to purchase a separate amp. Also in the similar realm that get recommended here a lot would be the Swans D1010 and the Edifier R1280T.

Personally I'm a bigger fan of passive speakers, as you get a lot more options to expand your system.

Pioneer BS22 bookshelf speakers are great and have gone on sale quite a bit lately for $70-80/pair.

Dayton B652 I am currently using as my surround speakers, but people rave about them as a budget desktop option

Micca MB42X also get great reviews.

You could also go used for your speakers, but sometimes it can be hard to parse through all the junk out there if you don't know what you're looking for.

Take any of those passive options and pair them up with an inexpensive amp like this SMSL or Lepai for a good budget setup.

I would also recommend checking your local Craigslist or Facebook marketplace for a used receiver, you could pick up a very decent one for just a few bucks and have a great starting setup. This will give you a lot more powerful amp, and the ability later to easily add a subwoofer or expand to surround sound. Personally I'm using an older Sony home theater receiver at my desk, it's old enough that it doesn't have HDMI or optical inputs, someone was just giving it away so I snagged it.

Amp & Speakers

You're going to need an amplifier to use them on your pc. I personally use a powered subwoofer that connects my speakers to my pc. You can find cheap amps on Amazon for like 20 bucks.

This one for example seems like it would work. Just plug your pc audio out into the audio input on the amp and connect the speakers via speaker wire to the terminals. I've used very similar devices with my bs22's and it worked great. You just may need an rca to 3.5mm adapter to connect your pc to the amp, like this one.

I'm bad at explaining things, if you have any more questions let me know!

If you must get a 2.1, then I suggest getting the Logitech Z623. It is good for gaming, but not great for music. You can pick it up at Best Buy or Amazon for $99

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Z623-Watt-Speaker-System/dp/B003VAHYTG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540214631&sr=8-1&keywords=z623

​

If you want good sound quality for music, then I suggest either of the following systems in your budget:

​

Passive system:

Polk T15 Speakers - $70

https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-T15-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B002RJLHB8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540214644&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=polk+t15&psc=1

and

Lepai LP-2020TI Amp - $25

https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-2020TI-Instruments-TPA3118-Amplifier/dp/B071FJF4FF/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540214708&sr=8-1&keywords=lepai+lp2020ti

​

Speaker wire & 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable

​

Powered system:

Edifier R1280T Speakers

https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-R1280T-Powered-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B016P9HJIA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1540214772&sr=8-2&keywords=r1280t

​

​

FWIW or if it might help I got this from Amazon and it puts out some decent sound. You'd be able to mount it right to the same board as that receiver is on I'd assume.

Anyone have good suggestions for an amp that matches the budget of these speakers? So far I've been looking at this: https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-AD18-Amplifier-Bluetooth-Subwoofer/dp/B071JN7GXN
Not entirely done researching all this stuff (newbie audiophile) but it would be nice to hear from someone with IRL experience anyway.

If you aren't turned off by your bad experience with the Ai40s, I am using the Fluance signature series bookshelf speakers with an SMSL AD-18 amp. There is no noticeable hiss. I use it for my turntable, pc and tv all with good results. If you only want to use it for your turntable I have heard good things about the SMSL SA50 as a basic amp.

​

Fluance Signature Series

​

SMSL AD-18

​

SMSL AD50

>And I don’t understand speaker setups all that much.

That's your biggest hurdle right there. What are you wanting? I've ran a good stereo-only home theater, and a good 2.1 setup before. I'd rather have either of those than a poor quality 5.1.

Soundbars typically replace quality with quantity. They became popular when TVs started getting real thin and having crap sound. a $2-300 powered speaker setup will have better sound. And if you don't want wires around the room, that's a good place to start.

Get something like these Klipsch R-15PM. You can use them now as-is and add a sub later. That will be a pretty damn solid 2.1 setup.

Or get an AMP and separate SPEAKERS. (Just examples). You can have a good system pretty easily.

Sure they do, they make 2.1 amps AND 2.1 AVR's. In terms of AVR's there are a limited number, and Imho you should just go 5.1 if you go the AVR route

In my experience, the 2.1 avrs aren't any smaller than the 5.1 units.

Amplifiers, however, can be very small. But I would only advise buying an amplifier if you are ONLY using a single source. If you need something that can do source switching, an AVR cannot be beat.

SMSL is very popular on r/budgetaudiophile. You could make quite a competent little 2.1 setup with one of those, some good bookshelves and a sub.

Something like this seems pretty ideal for a desktop, to me

They are solid, but just be aware, that Z only recommends those with different ear pads. https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Velor-Memory-Replacements-Earpads/dp/B00MFDX4YO. It's an extra expense (only $20) but it might put you out of budget.

​

Also, you will want to eventually save up for an amp/dac combo unless you have a great motherboard. Most motherboards will be able to power the m40x, but you won't get the most out of them. A solid entry-level amp/dac is here: https://www.amazon.com/FX-Audio-Optical-Coaxial-Amplifier/dp/B072JJT7SF/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1549221478&sr=1-3&keywords=fx+audio+dac-x6

​

Also, the Cloud Hyperx 2 are actually some decent headphones. I'm not sure you will be getting that much of an upgrade going to m40x. If it's an option, wait, save up $50 and buy the Sennheiser hd58x Jubilees on Massdrop. You seriously won't regret it and your mind will be blown.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 7 2700 3.2 GHz 8-Core Processor | $264.90 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | ASRock - B450M PRO4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $54.99 @ Newegg
Memory | Team - Vulcan 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $99.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 8 GB Turbo OC Video Card | $454.98 @ Newegg
Case | NZXT - H500 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $69.99 @ B&H
Power Supply | EVGA - BR 500 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $39.25 @ OutletPC
Monitor | Acer - GN246HL 24.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor | $191.99 @ B&H
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1201.09
| Mail-in rebates | -$25.00
| Total | $1176.09
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-11-13 16:13 EST-0500 |

For audio may I suggest the HD58x and a cheap amp/dac like this one.

If you look around you should be able to get a Windows license for $50 ish.

I don't have one, but it looks like an Audiosource Amp-100, although the power rating is a tad higher. There are reviews around.

You need a phono pre-amp to amplify the signal, or a different amp with a phono input built in. Here is a couple of very cheap pre-amps: pyle or Behringerfor example.

yes, you need a pre-amp. any will do for now.

this guy did me well starting out, no complaints.

I bought these a few years back. Turned me into a huge Sennheiser fan boy. The comfort and durability alone are notable. Add-in that the sound quality brings you into the realm of audiophile-grade and you have a huge reason to buy whenever they go on sale.

I have the 558 in my laptop bag for gaming on the go, a pair of HD518 for use with the Vive, and the Massdrop HD6xx on my main PC setup.

I've been wanting to grab another set for work, was hoping to grab the 598 and "complete the set." But this is tempting.

-----

I use the following replacement cables with mine:

• https://www.amazon.com/gp/B01IRCXC9S/
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KAKBHKM/
  
  Along with this compact budget DAC/Amp for the 558 (Schiit Stack for the HD6xx):
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009WN7QT4/
  
  

well to start, those are crap speakers either way. two 3.5" woofers means they will have zero bass, which completely defeats the purpose of tower speakers

second, you screwed up by not doing proper research. most speakers (aka passive speakers) have wire terminals where you connect them to an amplifier

you can buy a cheap amp on Amazon for $20 which will work. but my honest recommendation is to sell those speakers for whatever you can get and getting these Dayton bookshelf speakers and this Lepai amp. it'll sound better than those 'towers' and take up less room. yes, it'll cost a bit more (depending on what you can sell the Monster towers for), but if you plan on listening to anything bass heavy, you'll appreciate the better quality speakers (note: yes I know the B652s don't measure anywhere near flat, but for a layman, they're a good first step)

This would be much more rewarding than messing with those old ones. C-notes or classix II will sound better than those ever could.

C-notes

Classix II’s

Suitable amplifier

I really like my SMSL amp for my OS MTs hooked up to my desktop.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0H8TOC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

It's Class-D so very efficient and small. Pretty good price and comes with a decent external power supply. But for the $65 price you won't be getting any extra features on that model. Just RCA in and binding posts out, which is perfect for my setup.

Onkyo A-9010 Integrated Stereo Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SY20TE8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fpYnybS5YT4WT

http://www.amazon.com/Lepy-LP-2024A-Amplifier-Stereo-Supply/dp/B00ULRFQ1A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463512037&sr=8-1&keywords=lepai+2020

the mb42x is like twice as good as the mb42 do not buy the mb42

I agree, get a pair of the Fluance SX6 with an amp like the SMSL SA50 or the Lepy if you don't want to go over budget. This combination will blow anything else for 200 dollars out the water. You could add a subwoofer somewhere down the line as well.

A "vinyl player" is referred to as a turntable or record player. I can't tell you what table to buy because I'm not that familiar with newer quality tables but I can tell you to avoid Crosley and sub-$100 players with USB built in. For not much more $ you can get a better item used. Also be sure to get something with a replaceable cartridge because you will need to replace it eventually. Unless your planning to DJ you can probably save a bit of $ by going belt drive as opposed to direct drive. If you have a local record store take a look at their used equipment. Also whoever is working there should have good advice as long as you tell them a price range. Keep in mind you'll need something to send the audio signal to as well. That will vary in cost. I use this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ULRFQ1A/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1467417822&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=stereo+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=41phZQk-zFL&ref=plSrch. Some folks may think it's a bit of a joke but it satisfies my needs. It powers my speakers, fills my house with sound, and has an EQ.

I would highly recommend the Micca bookshelf speakers

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009IUIV4A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483218684&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=bookshelf+speakers&dpPl=1&dpID=515pxM5mGPL&ref=plSrch

Or the Dayton Audio bookshelf speakers

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002RMPHMU/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1483218684&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=bookshelf+speakers&dpPl=1&dpID=41h2GNNeZmL&ref=plSrch

With a small amp

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ULRFQ1A/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1483218848&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=turntable+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=41phZQk-zFL&ref=plSrch

I have used all of them with my Chromecast Audio. They sound great.

Can't do much with $50 tbh. This would work for 80ish

https://www.primecables.ca/p-357970-bookshelf-speakers-high-performance-65inch-2way-pair-primecables

https://www.amazon.ca/Lepy-LP-2020A-Class-D-Amplifier-Supply/dp/B00V9AYMZ4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=lepy+lp-2020a&qid=1569201715&s=gateway&sprefix=lepy&sr=8-1

Any way you slice it, $400 for this soundbar with Android TV built-in is a terrible deal.

My biggest problem with this soundbar is that you will be relying on JBL for software updates. This is a company with zero track record for software development and support. Until they can prove they are competent at this, it is a nonstarter for me.

The second thing is that the price simply does not justify the convenience of having an Android TV box built into the soundbar. If it was $100-200, I would understand. But at $400, the competition and alternatives are way too fierce.

If I am being generous, I would say this soundbar is on par with the Yamaha YAS-108. I seriously doubt it though. I'll give them the benefit though. This is a $200 soundbar.
A Mi Box S is $60. This bring the total value of having two separate items to $260. Is it really worth the $140 price difference to have them built into a single item?

Another alternative for $400 would be to start a proper home stereo audio setup. Once again, $60 for a Mi Box and $340 for audio equipment. You can buy a cheap amp, a couple of bookshelf speakers, and a subwoofer for that price. That would be the beginning of your very own home theater setup:

• $34 Class D Stereo Mini Amp (You can actually get a much better amp and still be well within budget)
  
  
• $110 Stereo Bookshelf Speakers and Speaker Wire
  
  
• $120 12-inch Powered Subwoofer
  
  Ultimately, for less than $400 you can either get a much better soundbar or a beginner audiophile setup and still get an Android TV box.

• $150 a pair, Sony Core Series: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/sony-core-series-5-3-way-bookshelf-speakers-pair/5721014.p?id=1219148662428&skuId=5721014 Review: http://www.cnet.com/news/sony-new-affordable-core-series-speakers/
  
  
• $73, SMSL SA50: http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-TDA7492-Integrated-Tripath-Amplifier/dp/B00F0H8TOC
  
  
• $110, Dayton SUB 1200: http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-1200-12-120-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-629

> SX6

@ZeosPantera, took your advice and bought instead of the audio engine a2's I bought the http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-TDA7492-Integrated-Tripath-Amplifier/dp/B00F0H8TOC along with the Sx6 speakrs. I also have a modded odac (jdslabs / mayflower o2 amp) which jdslabs re-integrated for me, and the audio is phanominal.

LPT: Never, ever buy those shitty Logitech/Sony/Creative/whatever 2.1 speaker systems on Amazon for your PC

Instead, buy a cheap amp, some speaker wire and head to your local Goodwill to find some bookshelf speakers.

Boom. You now have high quality sound for under $50 that will blow anything you can find at that price point on Amazon out of the water.

Every Goodwill I've been in has had bookshelf speakers for sale, and if you're real lucky you can find some excellent equipment for dirt cheap. I found a pair of these bad boys for freaking $13 last weekend

https://www.amazon.com/Lepy-LP-2020A-Class-D-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B01FZKA28Y/

This will do the job nicely and is about as cheap as you're going to find.

For those that are looking for some http’s ... here’s a couple


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXV4O6B/ref=

https://www.miccatron.com/micca-origain-compact-integrated-amplifier/

Mobile caveat: The Michca side does not seem to be responsive :-/

You can totally get both high quality TV and music audio over wireless for a reasonable price. Check out the Chromecast Audio or Apple Airport Express. Both will stream audio over wifi to any speaker setup you go with.

I only have experience with Apple's Airplay, but if you have a couple Apple devices, it's super simple to use and works really well. You can pick up and Airport Express for ~$20 used.

For example, a pair of Micca MB42x (I'd recommend the PB42x instead, but they seem to be out of stock), an SMSL SA-50 amp, and an airport/chromecast would be about the same as the lowest-end sonos setup, and sound a lot better. For your TV, you can use a receiver instead of the amp to switch between the Airport/Chromecast input and the TV input.

If your budget is bigger than that, then swap in a better pair of speakers. Your speakers determine 90% of the quality of your system, so spend the most on them, not expensive wireless solutions.

(this is very similar to how my house is set up, so let me know if you have any questions)

Excellent input- I completely agree with JohnBooty's assessment of the OS sound. Definitely not for home studio usage.

As far as amp - unless you're pushing them super hard, (since you're in nearfield) you can go with a SMSL amp. Good price, decent build quality, and it should hopefully free up more budget to spend on speakers.

https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465509439&sr=8-1&keywords=amplifier+smsl

You don't want to plug a splitter into 2 separate sources, you'll get grounding loop issues - at the very least static hiss you can audibly hear. If it's purely for gaming, look into a simple cheap but proven device like the Syba Sonic dac/amp that can power a 58X just fine. https://www.amazon.com/Syba-Digital-Headphone-Amplifier-Coaxial/dp/B009WN7QT4/

Syba Sonic SD-DAC63057 24bit 96KHz USB 2.0 as recommended by Zeos. Has all the output you'd need at an affordable price. And I'm not sure if it's a fact or not but Syba Sonic is referred to as the OEM for Micca Origen.

Have it on my desk right now. Cannot ask more for a $38 budget DAC/Amp.

I think an amp and passive speakers would be the best. The RCA would plug directly in the amp.

Check out /r/zeos for a decent overview.

I am looking at getting the fluance sx6 ($100 after coupon), and. $70 amp shortly. You may be able to get away with cheaper speakers such as Daytons or Micca.

Edit: I am just starting to learn about audio setups, if I said something wrong please correct me, I want to learn.
There are no professional reviews on the fluance sx6, they do have grew reviews on amazon / other retail websites. I have the original EMP tech 5.1 system. I will do a comparison of the EMP tech speakers to the fluance for my computer setup, and get back to you guys. This will be after Xmas though.

Edit 2:
By the way, the amp I will get is: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A2QLGEQ/
And the guide I would look over is: http://www.reddit.com/r/Zeos/comments/2dk676/guide_stereo_20_21_systems/

I would get an amp and passive speakers. Studio monitors for casual use make barely any sense for most people. The JBL 305s sound decent, and then you get to run a power cable to each speaker, some kind of dongle to switch your unbalanced output from your motherboard to a balanced input (even though the signal will not be balanced at this point), then each speaker has a volume knob...on the back, so you're setting and forgetting those and have to do all of your volume control in software. They're just inconvenient, also their enclosures are garbage (on the 305 and 308 anyway)

If it was me, with a $300 budget I would track down a decent integrated amp and bookshelf speakers locally on a site like USAudioMart or Audiogon and post about them here to get opinions before pulling the trigger.

If you don't want to frig around with haggling and want something new I would just get an SMSL SA50 and some Elac B6.2's while they're still on sale. This also gives you the opportunity to upgrade your amp or your speakers down the road if something comes up.

On this sub, most of us are going to recommend passive speakers, and a amp/preamp or receiver. The reason being, that it gives you more options in the future; Once you've made the decision to come to a reddit sub and get recommendations, chances are at somepoint in the future you're going to want to upgrade the performance (whether that's when you move into a new house, need a system in a different room, or just get bored and have money burning a hole in your pocket).

So, that being said, start with the amp. If you're short on space, some small class D Tripath style amp is what you'll want: pretty much anything by SMSL like this guy. But, if you have the space, I'd go with a really receiver like this onkyo mostly because of the method it uses to power the speakers (a/b class) and the LFE out for a sub.

Now for speakers, I'd check out Elac, like these B6's

Adding a sub will be big too, but it can be added later if you still want more base. You can also check craigslist, you can often find great deals on home theater receivers with obsolete video components (but great for audio still), and sometimes good deals on used speakers or subs.

SMSL AD18 might be of service

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JN7GXN/ref=psdc_537344_t1_B00UGYFWQC

These have been getting some good user reviews lately and a nice price too, and a pretty small cabinet for a 6.5 inch woofer, 79.99 / pair: 2 Pack 6.5" Bookshelf Home Theater Speakers 100W RMS TP160S-CH DCM by MTX Audio

As for amp's I have two of these (on two different computer systems), Dayton Audio APA 150. This is a serious Class A/B design topology, but no frills, just a well built, serious, "old school" heavy amp. No remote, no DAC, no Bluetooth, but WOW, a really nice, serious, amp! Lots of good user reviews and recommendations all over the net.

A often recommended smaller digital amp S.M.S.L AD18. This one DOES have it all, remote, DAC, bluetooth, relatively small, great reviews all over the net.

If you are really on a budget, try something similar to Lepai LP-2020TI Digital Hi-Fi Audio Mini Class D Stereo Amplifier. Do some searches for tweaking this amp, a very simple way to improve this amp, is to buy a more powerful power brick. There are many versions of this type of amp, amazon, ebay, parts-express, look around.

The other two, often recommended, "great value" speakers that work well with a computer (but you will need an amp), are the Sony SSCS5 3-Way 3-Driver Bookshelf Speaker System (Pair). I have seen these on sale for well under 100/pair, from memory, in the 60's and 70's.

Another great value is the Pioneer SP-BS22-LR Andrew Jones Designed Bookshelf Loudspeakers(7-1/8” x 12-9/16” x 8-7/16” & weighs 9 lbs 2 oz). Again, search around, these do go on sale for well under 100.00.

I have both the Pioneer and the Sony, and I currently am using the Sony SSCS5 with the Dayton Audio Amp. Was temped to buy the DCM, but I have to stop buying "great value" speakers. If I ever want to upgrade my computer speakers, I should save up and buy the Ascend Audio Luna Reference Ribbon Mini-Monitor.

Good luck, have fun, and Enjoy!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JN7GXN/ref=sspa_mw_detail_1?psc=1

That should do it, and it will take the HDMI splitter out of your setup. You could get fancy and grab a NAD 3020 v2 as well.

For reference, if you're looking for a "cheap" solution for a way to get sound out of the computer, and all you're doing is mixing, look into a DAC/Headphone Amp combo. I have interfaces with inputs in my practice space for tracking, but I just have one of these guys on my desk at home that connects to a USB port. If you end up getting nicer headphones down the road, it'll still work as well.

The XB950 is only good for one thing: bass

A DAC/amp wouldn't change the fact that this headphone sounds like ass.

The HD598 has been discontinued and is not easily available anymore, the newer version HD599 is still pretty expensive.

If you want a great sounding headphone and a DAC/Amp to use at home only.

• AKG K612
  
• FX Audio DAC X6
  
  will cost you roughly the same as the new HD599, but you will get a lot more bang for your buck

I'm also relatively new to all this -- I used to just have my Sony MDR-7506s plugged into my computer and for the most part that's 90% of the way there for me. However, the headphone out jack on my motherboard recently started having intolerable noise, so I had to do something to deal with it.

​

I started with the Fiio E10K (https://smile.amazon.com/FiiO-Portable-Headphone-ICP-AT1000-Headphones/dp/B076DVBNRP/) which I got primarily to avoid the line noise, and it powers the HD 6xx just fine (I got that pair of headphones around when I got the Fiio). I brought the Fiio to work and replaced it at home with the more powerful Massdrop O2 + SDAC (https://drop.com/buy/massdrop-o2-sdac-dac-amp/) which is ~2x the cost of the Fiio. I honestly don't know that I can tell the difference between the two setups, or say that one is qualitatively better to my ears than the other for either the MDR-7506 or the HD 6xx. In retrospect I probably would have been about as happy just getting a second Fiio.

​

In your case, as Roppmaster said, I'd just go ahead and test your new headphones with your motherboard. If they get loud enough, don't have any noise, and sound good to your ears, then you're all set for now. If any of those things aren't true, then you can probably start with either the Fiio or the one xehpar recommends since that's also pretty affordable (https://smile.amazon.com/FX-Audio-Optical-Coaxial-Amplifier/dp/B072JJT7SF) and either of them will get the job done for you. I got the Fiio because I have their Bluetooth adapter and it's worked quite well for me so I feel comfortable with their products, and it's well-reviewed; I didn't come across the other one but on paper it has better specs than the Fiio. (The Fiio is smaller, uses micro-USB and draws its power from that without needing a separate power brick, so it's better for e.g. a laptop. It also has 3.5mm line out and headphones as opposed to the ports on the FX Audio, so depending on your equipment one or the other may be more convenient.)

Cheap but not bad: FX Audio DAC-X6

Cheap with mic but never tried: Syba Sonic

Expensive but good: Mayflower ARC

If you get the money (like $70) in the future and want to go even further. Separate your sound source outside of your computer case with something like this.

​

I've been using the FX Audio DAC X6 + Beyerdynamic DT770 (cuz office environment) at work for years, my brother uses one as his main setup. Its seriously fantastic for a crazy cheap price and honestly its helped cut out a lot of issues I've had with motherboard-attached sound.

​

At home I've got a Schiit Mjolnir and Gungnir and I've got the whole setup hooked up via balanced XLR cables (gets rid of grounding loop noise) and I've got a 4 pin balanced cabling for all my headphones. Even thousands of dollars in, I really enjoy my current setup at home, but honestly its been severely diminishing returns since my 598s + FX DAC X6.

I just picked up these after a lot of research. Pretty blown away by how good they are. I use them in my pc setup so for both music and games. I often just sit here listening to music before playing anything. They can get really loud without any distortion.

These are powered so all you'd need is passive interface to connect them. Such as a DAC. I use this one and optical to my computer.

If you're patient, these speakers can be had for around 80-90 a piece decently often. They show up on slickdeals here and there. Got mine local on letgo for 100 barely used ;)

Okay, before you buy any of this, please find out if the monitor has a headphones jack. Most monitors these days do, if it does you can just plug it into it, the HDMI cable will carry audio to your monitor. Otherwise, yes, you've got the right parts as long as it isn't a PS4 Slim. also, consider an AMP:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00A2QLPJM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is working perfectly with the original PS4 and PS4 Pro and really makes my AD 700's sound amazing.

Hi!

A friend of mine recently bought the Dayton B652-AIR, which sound phenomenal for the price. They're on sale right now for $50 from Parts Express. I haven't heard the basic B652, but the reviews seem to indicate that the AIR models are worth the extra money. They have a better crossover (internal circuitry) and an upgraded tweeter that's supposed to provide smoother treble and more clarity.

Second, you're going to need an amplifier to drive those speakers. Your previous system had a built-in amp. I recommend this little guy which is a barebones amplifier that produces nice clean sound and has a very small footprint and a reasonable price.

It won't amplify your headphones, though.

Something like this receiver would cover all your bases-- provide power to your speakers and your headphones as well.

If I were you, I'd just use an analog cable to attach my source (computer?) to the receiver.

Oh, and you'll need some speaker cable to connect the speakers to the receiver.

I have a receiver, but you'd be fine with an SMSL SA-50 with 150s.

Just my opinion here, but class-D amplifiers have gotten good enough and cheap enough that there's no real reason to DiY amplifiers if your sole goal is bang for the buck.

Here is a nice amp that's probably better and cheaper than anything you could make yourself.

Selling my SMSL SA50 for $55 shipped (USA only).
Currently on Amazon for $68.

Purchased in April and used with my Pioneer BS22's. Like new condition, placed back in original box. Selling since I'm switching to active speakers.

You are a bit squeezed in but a set of Micca X's should fit on those little shelves. A decent T-amp like the Muse M50 or this will power them very well and then grab a sub like the Dayton-1200 or the more compact Martin Logan Dynamo 300. The hookup would look something like this(minus the dac unless you need one)

I'm not sure about best buy maybe check out their subs, you could crosscheck prices on subs/amps on amazon to best buy's prices. I'm about to drop a couple hundred on a 2.0 setup and buying a sub later on. These are the speakers I'm getting (and were recommended to me on this subreddit) Fluance SX6 with this Amp

You're going to take a lot of shit for wanting to connect a turntable to a soundbar as opposed to a proper 2.0/2.1 setup arranged to the room's acoustics (generally recommended here and in any other music-related sub over a soundbar), but any receiver with an optical out will do, as you can add a phono preamp to the chain to get a line level signal out of the turntable. You CAN find amps/receivers with optical outs and a built-in phono stage, but they're likely to be more expensive and even a $50-$100 phono pre-amp will sound as good or better than anything built into a receiver. And going to component route means if anything does go out or you want to upgrade something, the modular element means it's a lot easier to do.

Edit: the cheapest new (and decent) amp that I found in a quick search that has a phono stage and optical out in it: Onkyo A-9010 Integrated Stereo Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SY20TE8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_J4mlxbKYNJZHB - this actually looks like a pretty decent amp for what you want to do, and it's only a little over your budget (whuch is going to be tricky going the new route anyway)

And if you're set on new for the turntable too: http://uturnaudio.com/turntables/ and add a cueing lever and upgrade the cart to the ortofon or grado in their custom build link and you've got a better table for a better price delivered to your door and ready to play.

You will need an amplifier like this.

That cable is fine, but there are cheaper alternatives on amazon (amazon basics wire I recommend for starters).

You need to hook up your PC to the amplifier through RCA or 3.5mm jack. Then hook up the speaker wire to your speakers.

So standard pinball cabinet: Playfield space is 20.5 inches wide. Back box space is 28.5 inches wide.

This backbox TV:

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-32-class-led-720p-hdtv/5747454.p?skuId=5747454

Mounted with this mount:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07RN77YL6?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

DMD screen is this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01NB17E0Z?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Playfield TV:

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/vizio-40-class-led-d-series-1080p-smart-hdtv/6288347.p?skuId=6288347

Speakers:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00N8265I8?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Amplifier:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ULRFQ1A?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

My computer only has optical out so I need this adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01AWBA8U8?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

If you don't require motion sensing nudging or a analog plunger you can get a simple keyboard controller like this:

https://www.ultimarc.com/ipac1.html

Buttons like this:

https://www.focusattack.com/il-psl-h-concave-short-stem-pushbutton-blue/

Couple of ground wire harnesses like this (you'll probably need two):

https://www.focusattack.com/30-connection-22-awg-187-ground-daisy-chain-wire/

And some .187 quick connect wiring:

https://www.focusattack.com/16pc-22-awg-wire-with-187-quick-disconnect/

1 1/8 inch spade bit to enlarge or add cabinet button holes:


https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-SPEEDBOR-Blue-Groove-Spade/dp/B00004YOAC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=1+1%2F8+spade+bit&qid=1569174093&sprefix=1+1%2F8+sp&sr=8-3

After that it's just assorted HDMI cables, USB Extension cords, a computer and a partridge in a pear tree. I keep my computer outside of the cabinet in case I want to use it for other things and keep the heat out so my cables are long. The TVs don't generate much heat. And currently I just turn the TVs and computer on manually.

I built my own speaker grills out of foam board and acousticly transparent cloth.

You can either get a stereo reciver/amp and two normal speakers. Or, you can buy powered monitors (speakers that have an amp built in), here is one likely in your budget (they just came back in stock, no idea if they'll run out soon).

If you are looking to spend <$100, the same speaker company makes their Covo-S (very small form factor, but still better than a soundbar) and you'll need an amp that can do at least 40W combined, such as this, that amp isn't great at max volume, but should be good enough for a bedroom, you'll need something more expensive (or a proper home theater receiver, I got one that can do 75W/speaker for $50 at shopgoodwill.com) if for a big open living room.

In the $20ish range, I have several of these. They're great for road trips, immensely improving the motel experience. I've also sacrificed a power cord so I can hook it up to a car battery, as it's 12 volt, so handy for car camping, too. Of course, you'll need speakers, but they aren't terribly expensive, either, and you can often find used ones at thrift stores. I keep a suitcase ready for travel with these and some rope lights, it's awesome.

Honestly build your own set.

I took this: https://www.amazon.com/Lepy-LP-2024A-Amplifier-Stereo-Supply/dp/B00ULRFQ1A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478870107&sr=8-1&keywords=lepai+lp-2020a

And added in some older sony bookshelf speakers I had and it outperformed my old Creative/Logitech sets. I like the ability to adjust the bass/treble directly on the front, and I screwed the amp to the underside of my desk to be hidden, and I can still reach under and turn the audio up if need be. It also gives you the ability to connect whatever the hell speaker you want to it... Any two wire bookshelf/tower/desktop speaker you can find.

Things you'll need:

• The amp or one like it
  
• desktop speakers
  
• speaker wire
  
• the will to build it
  
  I should have done this years ago instead of going through as many speaker setups as I have and not being happy with them. I have a 5.1 polk system for my TV that I pieced together, and I listen to most headphone audio through my HD595s or Klipsch s4i earbuds. Audio is pretty important and this setup was ideal for cost/quality.

No but I've heard good things about This Lepy from Amazon for $10 cheaper.

https://www.amazon.ca/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00E7H8GG2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482894747&sr=8-1&keywords=micca

plus

https://www.amazon.ca/Lepy-LP-2020A-Class-T-Amplifier-Supply/dp/B00V9AYMZ4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482894781&sr=8-1&keywords=lepai or a used receiver

would be a far better option

I went with this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZSEFU94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6-mzzbQSRKWAF

In fact I just got another one yesterday off of warehouse - $81 with prime free shipping. Gotta watch for a bit to find a returned one, but all have been good quality.

Pros - cost, two channel so we can expand the zones we have now, auto-turn on/off with source, adjustable bass/treble/volume, doesn't use a lot of power in standby (less than 5w).

Cons - not mountable in a media cabinet, but I just built a custom rack; no remote, but we just let Chromecast/home do the on/off.

I don't use it yet, but this is what I plan to go with and is pretty highly/regularly recommended over at AVS.
https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Source-AMP100VS-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00ZSEFU94/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526618361&sr=8-1&keywords=audiosource+ad1002

you need a stereo receiver and 4 speakers, thats it.

this will do:

http://www.amazon.com/AudioSource-AMP-100-Stereo-Power-Amplifier/dp/B00026BQJ6/

http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-NS-AW150WH-Indoor-Outdoor-Speakers/dp/B0001VHARE/ref=pd_cp_e_0

Here's one stereo amp

A more expensive option

A really cheap option, won't get super loud due to only having 20wpc

Why do you need a built in preamp?

A decent vintage turntable + this will be a lot cheaper/better than the LP120

This Audio Technica is well respected, and $40. Or for $50 you can get this Shure.

I still think you'll need a phono preamp, even with the powered studio monitors. You can get one for $20.

Hope this helps!

http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-PP400-BEHRINGER-MICROPHONO/dp/B000H2BC4E?ie=UTF8&keywords=phono%20preamp&qid=1462321051&ref_=sr_1_7&sr=8-7

I've just got into vinyl, this is the set up i use

• Pre amp https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000H2BC4E/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Record player https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pro-Ject-Audio-Systems-Primary-Turntable-Black/dp/B00XCTJBVK/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1523029255&sr=1-2&keywords=Pro-Ject+Audio
  
  You can get cheaper ones, but you want to stay away from ones with built in speakers!
  
  You need the pre amp before you plug it into your external speakers otherwise it will be very quiet due to low frequency :)

Good catch! I forgot to take a photo of that. I'm using this Behringer preamp. http://www.amazon.ca/Behringer-PP400-Ultra-Compact-Phono-Preamp/dp/B000H2BC4E

I would be very hesitant about running something as weak as a phono signal that distance. At very least make sure you use a phono pre-amp near the turntable and plug into a non-phono input at the receiver. I would consider something like a Sewell Sound Link - but I'd definitely use the phono pre-amp before sending through that and use the non-phono input on the receiver.

​

The extender:

https://sewelldirect.com/products/sound-link-al10-rca-3-5mm-over-cat5e-6-2000ft

There are obviously much better phono preamps - but this would be bare minimum.

https://smile.amazon.com/Behringer-Microphono-PP400-Ultra-Compact-Preamp/dp/B000H2BC4E/ref=sr_1_6

Something like these would be better:

https://smile.amazon.com/Pro-Ject-Audio-Phono-preamp-Output/dp/B007DB5I60/ref=sr_1_14

or

https://smile.amazon.com/Schiit-Mani-Phono-Preamp-Cartridges/dp/B07P8WYX6N/ref=sr_1_11

Replace the Pyle with PP400 http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-PP400-BEHRINGER-MICROPHONO/dp/B000H2BC4E/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1449788286&sr=1-1&keywords=pp400+phono

And you will probably want to get the Micca MB42.

The good thing about separate preamps is that you can always upgrade later on when you can afford something better, but it's also worth noting that most of the built-in preamps aren't particularly good. If you want something ok but affordable, then you can try the Behringer PP400, which is pretty cheap. Nothing amazing but it'll do the job. If you feel like something somewhat better try out the Art DJ Pre II. Additionally Rega, Pro-Ject and Cambridge also make some nice and popular phono preamps, so there's plenty of fairly affordable solutions to go from.

You could also try to find a receiver with a built-in phono preamp instead. Although most newer ones don't come with one.

Glad to help. Vinyl is a fun hobby and you will enjoy learning as you go. Lots of good reading material on the /r/vinyl sidebar and you'll see good tips in the threads along the way.

I'd go with this phono preamp because it's very low priced and it'll get the job done just fine. It's got a place for your ground wire too. http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-PP400-Ultra-Compact-Phono-Preamp/dp/B000H2BC4E

About a month ago I decided I wanted to upgrade my system.

I was using the Monoprice 25 Watt Hybrid Tube amp hooked up to their 4-inch 2-way bookshelf speakers. I then had an av selector a friend gave me that allowed me to easily change inputs between a projector, for watching movies, and my TurnTable. The TurnTable was connected to a Behringer Microphono PP400 phono preamp and I was using a Kenwood KD-52FB TurnTable with a Sumiko Pearl Cart



My new setup (which unfortunately can't be ideally setup for listening to music) is now using the Cambridge Audio CXA80 integrated Amplifier, a pair of Amphion Helium410 bookshelf speakers, and a U-Turn Orbit Custom. My custom has the upgraded Acrylic Platter, the Grado Black Cart, and the cue lever, I also choose the white color to match the speakers. I am still using the Behringer Microphono PP400 phono preamp in this setup, but that will also be upgraded sometime soon.


One last addition that you see and is less relevant for this sub, is a Raspberry Pi 3 B+ which I wanted a housing for so I ended up buying this kit, which came with some other useful stuff so heh. On the Raspberry Pi I installed Volumio so that I can conveniently play all my digital music easily as well.

Anyway that is my new setup thanks for reading!

If you plugged in the turntable to find that it wasnt loud enough chances are it doesnt have a phono preamp. Luckily there are some like This one that will run you about $20 and get the job done. (While there are better ones out there one like this will get the job done and let you listen)

Thanks for you input. So if I understand you correctly, I the setup will be: Turntable > Preamp (like this one?) > Behringer ACU202 Audio interface > Raspbery Pi > Sonos (in my case)?

​

Edit: its a present for my dad and I am trying to figure this out, please don't mind my ignorance :)

I recommend this.

You will need a amplifier as well as speaker wire.

The headphone jack from your mac is a very low power for headphones. Your sound dock has a amplifier built in for it's speakers

There are lots of way to go about this it all comes down to price

I can't speak for quality of the below, but you can purchase this
http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DTA-1-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B001PNOH2I/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1450824746&sr=1-2&keywords=dayton+audio+amplifier

speaker wire
(just search amazon for speaker wire 16 gauge is plenty for the current setup.

Sounds like your line level is a bit low - maybe a poor output from your soundcard?

I recommend dropping like 30$ and getting this http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI to see if that doesn't help your problem.

I'm guessing the dynamic range on the output for your sound card isn't great and music tends to be on the louder side so the issue isn't as apparent there.

Also could be poor noise floor on your amp - solve this by putting an inline pre-amp (to raise your signal level for quiet material) or unless you have a real high power amplifier (explaining the poor noise floor) I'd just grab a T-Amp or a cheap stereo amp like this http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DTA-1-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B001PNOH2I/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1346872929&sr=1-2&keywords=t+amp (lower power higher fidelity). I say this because you will have to remember to turn the pre-amp down for louder material to avoid breaking your amp (it may not care, but more than likely you will damage it if your signal input gets too high)

or this http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PCA1-30-Watt-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B0012KZNP4/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1346873001&sr=1-2&keywords=2+channel+amplifier (little more power, probably not as good SQ but it is well enough reviewed, and I'm sure there is probably minimal audible noise at listening levels)

Also could be noise from your soundcard output - if you unplug the signal cable from the amp is the hiss still present? if not just grab that behringer dac I linked to above and it will sort you out

Although I haven't listened to them personally, and they're probably the least stereotypical audiophile piece of equipment that still caused a stir in the audiophile world, class-D(though referred to as 'class-t') tripath amplifier chips are supposed to be outrageous for the price. Here's an example of one on amazon.

Paired with some high efficiency full-range speakers, depending on what you get you can easily make a system for under a grand that is impressive.

Other than that type of amp, which is an anomaly, you can get some vintage solid state integrated amps which sound pretty damn good for at LEAST a couple hundred.

Keep in mind the DAC on the YU4 is through optical, if you don't have an S/PDIF output on your mobo you'd have to pick up a budget audio interface, something like the Syba Sonic would be sufficient:

https://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-DAC63057-Stereo-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B009WN7QT4

Feel free to PM me if you have any questions about the YU4!

Don't go with internal sound cards. Your PC is hell when it comes to audio because of all the electricity going around to all the components. Internal solutions are completely outdated and will be noisier with lots of static.

If you have no need for any professional inputs (XLR, MIDI, etc.) I recommend either the Syba Sonic DAC-Amp on the cheaper end, or the Sennheiser GSX 1000 on the pricier end which does a lot the more "premium" settings other cards do on-board (no drivers needed) which is largely just EQ anyway.

Yes, you'll need an external amplifier. A receiver will have an amplifier built in, but if you're not fussy about the audio quality, a little class-D amplifier like this works well for cheap.

I don't actually have one of these subs, but I'm 99% sure you will not be able to use the sub to power the speaker outputs. The speaker level inputs/outputs are used to get a signal to the sub after it has already gone through an amplifier, and the sub's built-in amplifier is only used to power itself. You can definitely still use the sub by getting an adapter cable to run from the TVs 3.5mm output to the subs RCA Line In, but you will need to get some sort of amp/receiver for the bookshelf speakers. It doesn't have to be fancy, I've used small cheap amplifiers to power speakers and while it wasn't audiophile quality, it was definitely better than the TV speakers.

3.5mm to RCA cable

Small Amplifier I've used before

This one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071FJF4FF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_k4PDCbWXQ8RZK

That is pretty general and not very helpful.

Anyway, after further searching the web it looks like these type of speakers where used in a Sony CMT-GP5 system.

Specs here: [https://imgur.com/a/EN3W5wZ]

So I guess an amp with less than 30W per channel should be fine (or even more if you're careful to not turn it up all the way I assume)

Something like this maybe: [https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-2020TI-Instruments-TPA3118-Amplifier/dp/B071FJF4FF/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=Lepai+LP-2020A%2B&qid=1571864431&sr=8-4]

Going to try something in this direction, maybe it helps someone, cheers.

Can you guys look this over and make sure I have something worth buying? I have about $1000 to spend on a 2.1 setup for a computer desktop setup.

KEF Q150 Bookshelf Speakers

SMSL AD18 HiFi Audio Stereo Amplifier

Then finally one of these three.

Klipsch R-100SW 10" Subwoofer

Klipsch R-120SW 10" Subwoofer

or

Klipsch Reference R-10SW 10" 300w Powered Subwoofer

Also would I need to buy the speaker wires to set these up or do they come with wire?

I bought the SMSL AD18 just this past weekend and I really like it. Powers 45W at 8 ohms, I also have those Polk s15’s and it works well with them. In addition, the unit comes with Bluetooth, a sub out, and a variety of different inputs with the built in DAC. Even with $25 shipping to Canada it comes in under budget for you:

SMSL AD18 HiFi Audio Stereo Amplifier with Bluetooth 4.2 Supports Apt-X,USB DSP Full Digital Power Amplifier 2.1 for Speaker,Small 80Wx2 Class D Amplifier with Subwoofer Output https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JN7GXN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jsfaCb0RG097B

This cheap POS. It's what I use at my desk at work. Does alright really.

JBL LSR305 would be a pretty good choice, and you'll have some extra dough left afterwards. If you have multiple sources you'll probably need something like the Schitt Sys to switch inputs, though the SYS only takes two inputs.

You can also consider the SMSL Q5 amp, which has a bunch of inputs. For matching bookshelf speakers you can look at the Emotiva B1, Philharmonic AA Monitor, Kef Q100. Downside is that the amp isn't terribly powerful, so volume might be a problem. Your listening distance doesn't seem like it'll be very far so you should be fine.

Kanto BEN (comes in all colors), SMSL A2 or Q5 Pro, Dayton Sub 800

https://www.amazon.com/Kanto-BENBLKGL-Passive-Coaxial-Speakers/dp/B00AWLI7E8

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017W136AU/ or https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017W12UCU/ (good becuase treble control for BEN's brightness.

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-800-8-80-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-627

And speaker wire, and a subwoofer cable. But yeah.

+2 for the SMSL. Can't speak to the AD18, but I had a Q5 and loved it

Sounds like you need something like these:.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F0OMUGS/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_23_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0ZAGYB8ZH3ZSJSBVHZEH&dpPl=1&dpID=41IrTc-8IBL.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UGYFWQC/ref=psdcmw_537344_t3_B00R3CRY6Q.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017W12UCU/ref=psdcmw_537344_t2_B00UGYFWQC

Boom

Otherwise we'd need to know what inputs your sub has. Some subs have speaker level inputs/ouputs that let you wire your speaker in series, others just have RCA inputs.

Okay, well then I'd recommend these:

https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10904&cs_id=1090405&p_id=6970&seq=1&format=2

but you'll need a small amp to power them.
I assume the Google Audio is coming off a laptop or desktop computer, you could try to power them using that but it will probably be too weak.

Something like this would probably fit the bill:

https://www.amazon.com/Lepy-Amplifiers-Component-LP-2020A-Class-D/dp/B01FZKA28Y/ref=sr_1_3?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1526446495&sr=1-3&keywords=lepai+amp

Plus you'll need some speaker wire, I'd get something about 14 gauge for getting the audio from the amp to the speakers.

Then you'll also need a mini to mini or mini to RCA stereo hookup wires for getting the signal from the laptop to the amp.

Nad D 3020v2 fits all criteria. Emotiva Ta- 100 is normal sized, but fits all other criteria. PS Audio Sprout would be a great option, but is a bit over budget.

You could also get a small dac/amp and add a small phono preamp like the schiit mani. You could stack the Schiit on something small like the micca origain.

Hope this helps.

Micca MB42X, Dayton B652 Air, Pioneer BS22 (just over budget), or Dayton MK402 paired with one of these is about the best youll do ~$100 new. I would look at used speakers before making any purchase though.

I recently upgraded from an LP60 to a LP1240 (secondhand) and I've been seriously underwhelmed and am having problems.

The LP60 sounded crisper with cleaner sound which shouldn't be the case for a much more expensive table with a cartridge costing more than the previous table all together.

The 1240 wasn't nearly loud enough so I had to add a preamp, I know there is a built in one but after trying every possible Line/phono config it still was't giving me the volume the LP60 had.

Also I am getting a loud hum which I can't seam to figure out. I attracted a ground wire from the turntable to the preamp which reduced hum but is still prevalent. I'm almost positive this hum is stemming from the turntable itself as when I used the LP60 with the amp there was no hum whatsoever and the hum is still there when the preamp isn't connected.

Video of hum

Setup:

Turntable

Amp

Pre Amp

Headshell

Cartridge

Speakers

​

​

DIY is what I do... here's what I would part together for a $150 budget.

SMSL 2x50W Amp:
http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC

Dayton B652 Speakers:
http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-B652-Bookshelf-Speaker/dp/B002RMPHMU

5A Battery:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=16770.html


Instructions:
http://imgur.com/a/Qgmay

This would be better than anything else for the price!

This comes in at $500

• Ascend Acoustic CBM-170 SE $330 shipped
  
• Dayton Audio SUB-800 $100
  
• SMSL SA-50 $70 shipped
  
  Or substitute the Ascends for these to get it down to $370
  
  
• Philharmonic AA $200 shipped

Are you in a metro area where craigslist is an option? At that price point used speakers make a lot of sense.

link to local craigslist if you want help.

Small cheap amp at your price point, i think this is the go to around here:
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC but obviously only has one input.

but obviously there are other options.

Do you have someplace to tuck a subwoofer or does that blow your definition of small?

What kind of music? priorities? Clear? Loud? Accurate? Bass?

Does your record player have a built in phono amp, or do you need a receiver with a built in phono stage? if you don't know give model and brand of record player.

$60 Dayton B652 Air Speakers

$70 SMSL SA-50 AMP

Decent starting point, can tweak this setup with better passive bookshelf speakers and different size/make amps. Can also pair later with active subwoofer for real bass.

Well, I did the best I could. I ruled out bookshelves since you said you had the room since bookshelves in this price range don't do so well with "loud" without causing distortion and hearing damage.

So, here are some options. Get one thing out of each section. Try to spend as much as you can on the speakers.


Speakers

BIC America Venturi DV64 x2 (~$250)

Infinity Primus P363 x2 (~$350)

PSB Alpha T1 (~$400)


Integrated Amplifier

SMSL SA50 (~$75)

Emotiva mini-X a-100 (~$190)


The following aren't necessary to get things working but you should add them when you get the cash.

DAC

schiit modi 2 (~$100)

This connects your computer to the amplifier. Without this, you just use a male 3.5mm to rca stereo cable.


Subwoofer

BIC America F12 (~$190)

You connect the amp's outputs to the speaker inputs on the sub and then connect the speakers to the sub's speaker outputs.

If I were you I would start out with the PSB speakers and emotiva amp (if you can afford the ~$600) then add the sub when you get more money. The DAC will sound better than your computer's sound card and reduce static and interference from your computer.

I'm on a tighter budget than you, but I just set up a nice little system with a SMSL SA50 50Wx2 TDA7492 Class D Amplifier and a set of Pioneer SP-BS22-LR Andrew Jones Designed Bookshelf Loudspeakers without a sub. Add a sub to that you'll have a nice sounding set-up under budget that should last you well beyond your time at college.

In addition to this subreddit, here's what I used for guidance:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Zeos/comments/66ylk9/guide_speakers_2021_desktoproom_systems/
and
https://www.reddit.com/r/AverageJoeAudiophile/comments/3uoksp/i_have_xxxxx_to_spend_what_should_i_buy_bookshelf/

For considering which sub you want:
https://www.reddit.com/r/AverageJoeAudiophile/comments/3w9tdw/i_have_xxxxx_to_spend_what_should_i_buy_subwoofers/
and
https://www.reddit.com/r/Zeos/comments/5b1u99/guide_subwoofers/

If you sign up for promo codes for Fry's and check every Sunday, the SP-BS22-LR Pioneer's can be had for $62 as they seem to go on sale around once a month. Actually if you can get a promo code from someone today, you can order them this evening at that price. Even at $129, they're considered a good value.

Pricewise you'd be looking at: $62 Pioneer SP-BS22-LR + $69 SMSL SA50 + $180 for the ELAC S10 or something comparable + $30 for speaker wire, plugs and cables to connect to your source and $341 total

This will be plenty loud to fill any dorm room (and drive your neighbors crazy if you're not careful) with much better sound quality than a soundbar or a 2.1 system like a Klipsch Promedia 2.1.

As for the bluetooth, buy a separate bluetooth adapter. You'll have more utility that way rather than buying one that's integrated into your receiver or amp. This way you'll only need to upgrade your bluetooth receiver when bluetooth is inevitably upgraded in the next few years. Your receiver and speakers can last you decades.

I have these speakers. All you need are an amp + copper cables + Banana plugs (optional, but worth it).

I recommend this amp: https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482259592&sr=8-1&keywords=SMSL+50

Lepy 2020 is basically the cheapest worth bothering with.

I've got an SMSL SA-50 and I really like it. Feels nicely built and such.

SMSL SA-50 or SMSL SA-60 would be good bets for lots of power for your money.

$67-$80, so quite a bit more than your Lepai.

Strictly speaking, wattages and THD are a good guide for figuring out quality, but are certainly not a hard-and-fast rule. Knowing your brands and trusted opinions are better, listening to it yourself is best.

The link in the sidebar has some good ones.

I'm actually in exactly the same position as you at the moment, I'm considering this one as it's the cheapest (50w per channel, ~au$80 delivered), but apparently this one is much better even though it's only 30w per channel and is $20 more.

Or then again I could anticipate future upgrades and just go for this yammy amp which is 100w per channel for ~$190.

I really like that Denon one you've posted, though. Decisions, decisions.

Have you looked into the Sabaj A4 - £119.99?

Z Review - Sabaj A4 Desktop Amp (Remote, BT, DAC)

Or the Topping MX3 - £99.99?

Z Review - Topping MX3 [ Desktop Budget KING!]

​

Edit: or yet another option for just a basic single input: SMSL SA-50 - £57.99

Personally I wouldn't waste money on them with the 4xx . I have a SMSL 793ii and it barely powers the 400i's or the Sundaras . To get good results get something with a watt or higher . I use a FX Audio DAC-X6 with the jumper mod . For 65 bucks , it's the cheapest unit I could recommend . Especially if you have optical or coax outputs on your computer . If not , the DAC-X6 has a usb input also . https://www.amazon.com/FX-Audio-Optical-Coaxial-Amplifier/dp/B072JJT7SF

If you like Sennheiser then the 660S are pretty good. Only 150ohms so they are much easier to drive. (compared to other 600 series that are 250ohm)
660S

I would still recommend getting a dac/amp because that will usually make a difference over a direct plug to the motherboard. Something cheap like the FX Audio Dac X6 would be a good starting point.


The Beyerdynamic DT1990 get very good reviews for open sound stage:
DT1990

These are all around the $500 mark and will be a huge improvement over your old ones. These are also open back.

Im sure others can list some other options.

Agree with the above comments re: good pair of headphones vs gaming headset. You’ll get better sound game / mic going this route. My current set up is as follows and it’s the best sound experience I’ve ever had ( if you don’t mind a few cords): Audio Technica AD 700x $100 + ModMic 4 $55 + Y split cable $15 to plug into the 3.5 mm port on your controller. The above is all I really needed to play but last week I also grabbed this Dac Amp. $65 and the whole set up sounds even better and doesn’t drain my controller’s battery life.

> if enable the checkbox to hear your own mic in windows I hear the background noise too.

Enabling additional processing for stuff like this will always result in some unwanted noise/feedback, in my experience. I would recommend turning all that shit off. Unfortunately, mic loopback isn't included as a standard function when you use a non-gaming headset. It's something that's often built in to the usb soundcards or technology most gaming headsets come with. There is a cheap DAC/AMP combo that includes this feature though. It appears as an option under playback device properties in windows and works pretty well.

http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-DAC63057-Stereo-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B009WN7QT4

Also, having open back headphones helps lessen the need for mic loopback since you can naturally hear yourself talk a bit. Closed back or noise cancelling headphones give you that "ear plugs in" effect that makes it very hard to hear yourself without mic loopback.

Have you seen this one before?

​

Syba Sonic Amp/Dac

Might be a grounding issue. Make sure all the cables are all the way in and in the right spots. Also make sure you're using the cable that splits the mic and headphones since iirc they come with both a mobile and pc cable. I doubt that it's an issue with your mobo powering the headphones, but a solution to both the grounding issue and powering would be either the Creative Sound Blaster E1 or the Syba Sonic DAC/AMP. Both of these should be more than enough to power Game Ones and they both come with separate jacks for the audio and mic which would solve grounding problems.

Just get one of these

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009WN7QT4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The controller output is limited (the mic should be fine though). I have literally the exact same setup but you're going to need an external DAC/amplifier if you want your head to rumble with sound. I have one from SMSL and then plug the Modmic into my controller with a y splitter. The cheapest one recommended by the mod here I see is the Syba unit (this one has mic input too):

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B009WN7QT4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525879626&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Syba

Use the U.S site if you're located there.

College kid here, I'll try to help out.

It's generally recommended that you don't ever go for a HTIAB (home theater in a box) as they come with super shitty components and most often don't leave room to upgrade.

You'll get more flexibility and bang for your buck with bookshelves and a sub, but as you mentioned you only want a 2.0 for right now. If bass is really that important to you, I would actually recommend you get a pair of bookshelves now and invest in a sub later on. Towers are great but for a 2.0 setup you're going to want something smaller with better sound quality.

 

---

Bookshelves: used Polk Signature S15's

>Top listing is $165 for like new speakers; S15's run for $229/pair new.

This listing in particular says "Speakers only, nothing else is included" which is odd for them to mention because I don't think these speakers normally come with any accessories. Maybe he's talking about the manual which can easily be found online. But who needs manuals anyway?

 

Amp: SMSL SA-50

>Price fluctuates between $63 and $69. This listing is $63.

Puts out 50 wpc, will power pretty much any speaker you throw at it. I owned this myself and recommend it for a first setup. Just keep in mind you will have to upgrade to a surround receiver if you ever want to move past 2.1 in the future.

---

 


This puts you at $228 shipped. A bit above your absolute max of $200, but this is probably your best bet. You're also going to need to buy some speaker wire. It's only like $8.

So in total, this comes to $236 shipped. A bit above your budget, but it leaves you with some kickass bookshelves as well as the ability to add a sub in the future.

It's just the Custom One Pro Plus, not two variants.

1. Custom One Pro Plus: Updated Custom One Pro
   
2. Custom One Studio: DT770/80ohm in the Custom One Pro's shell (with bass slider) and a bit better sound.
   
3. Custom One Street: Portable Custom One Pro (not as good audio quality) and are on ear.
   
   

   ___
   

   
   In my opinion I prefer the Custom One Studio/DT770/80ohm with any cheap dac/amp to fully power them such as this or this.
   With the second one, you have to have an optical out on your pc, and you have to buy an optical cable.
   

I don't know much about DACs but I have seen this one and this one recommended multiple times.

They are a bit pricey compared the one you sent though. And the second one can't work on your motherboard since the mobo doesn't have an s/pdif output.

Looks like the SMSL SD793-II PCM1793 DIR9001 DAC

So from my limited understanding of audio equipment I know that a DAC simply converts the digital signal from the computer to an analog signal for the headphones (a separate DAC helps the most with isolating the signal from interference from the computer). If you think the sound coming from your headphones is too quiet or lackluster what you really need is an amplifier to make the signal stronger, or a DAC/amp combo.

Two DAC/amp combos I see recommended often are the


Fiio E10K
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_8bEeAb0CH5BW4


SMSL SD793-II
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A2QLPJM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_ldEeAbHJ9PS48

Both have a DAC to isolate the signal and an amplifier to power higher end headphones.

the SMSL SD793-II is an option, it's a good DAC/Headphone amp for the price and probably outperforms the E10k. costs about the same, recommended by ZeosPantera However, if you don't have SPDIF (either TOSLINK or Coaxial) then the DAC in this amp is useless to you, as it doesn't have USB input. you can still use a 3.5mm to RCA plug and simply use it as a headphone amp if you wish though, if you need USB input then the SMSL M3 may be a good option, though it costs a little more, again well recommended by ZeosPantera he compares it directly to the E10K so the video is worth a watch if you are considering both.

Check our /u/zeospantera reviews at /r/zeosreviews , I bought one of these based on his recommendations (plus loads of other things) and it works great with my Sennheiser PC 360's , but check out his videos and find what suits you, also check out /r/headphones but the short answer to your question is yes it is worth the quality as with the dac alone it will be much better.

If you want to do WiFi streaming, install $3.50 BubbleUPnP on the phone and use the Windows 10 built-in DLNA streaming. If you're on Ubuntu you can install pulseaudio-dlna and use it as output from sound settings. I'm sure there's something for Mac as well.

For USB, what you're looking for is called a USB DAC. If you're really strapped for cash and don't have fancy tastes in sound quality, or quality headphones, then one of these $5-7 puppies will take care of it. Quality is touch and go, some may be DOA and need replacing, but they'll get the job done. You can also go for a $20 Signstek (PCM2704), but I wouldn't recommend more expensive ones without knowing what headphones you're using and what you want from them.

If you do, I can recommend the $40 FiiO K1, $65 SMSL SD793-II or $75 FiiO E10K, but if you do that you should also look into putting $50-200 into decent headphones and you're probably not looking for that.

Whatever you do DO NOT get USB headphones. Decent ones are expensive, cheap ones are absolute crap. A $5 DAC like above and a $25 pair of Sennheiser HD202 will be better and can be replaced separately or even taken apart and repaired if they break.

You want a headphone amp/dac that can accept SPDIF input.

​

Not sure what "on the cheap" is in your world but $75 to $100 is that general range.

​

https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-SD-793II-Converter-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A2QLPJM that is about as cheap as you'll find.

60$ dac/amp from smsl. I've heard pretty good things about it.

Dude, holy shit! First and foremost, thanks so much for typing all that out. You didn't have to, but I'm very happy you did.

I've been reading ad-nausaem about audio and how it relates specifically to gaming. Certain things like sound clarity, minimal bass, and soundstage are very very important. I've found lots of little nuggets of information which have been GOLD and sound advice, much like the ones you wrote out.

But you know whats the crazy about all of this? The dire distinction and SPLIT ideology of the differences between DAC's and soundcards within the audiophile community. One side swears by a DAC/AMP combo like the ODAC, other side maintains that a soundcard is still optimal and more than sufficient.

This has been one of the few instances where the more research I did on a topic, the deeper my hole went and the more confused I got.

I decided to put the Astro Mixamp aside for a moment. If you don't already know, the Mixamp I'm using is the 5.8 Wireless version, I was somewhat skeptical about how the audio would sound traveling both wirelessly and through optical out. So I hooked up my headphones directly to my onboard and holy shit, it sounded BETTER than my Mixamp. I wouldn't say night and day but DEFINITELY noticeable.

At this point, after watching numerous videos displaying sound stage and clarity like THIS and THIS, and seeing how great the clarity with onboard is as opposed to Mixamp, I decided to drop coin on the Sound Blaster Z. I got it for $55 because of Black Friday. I was definitely NOT disappointed. SBX makes a huge difference and as gimmicky as it may sound, Creative's "SCOUT MODE" turned out to be awesome and actually expands the sound stage and lowers bass. Incredible.

The sound card has an OPT IN/OUT so if anything, I can simply hook my Xbox or Playstation up to it via OPT IN and use the Creative soundcard properties for surround sound gaming and completely bypass the Astro Mixamp all-together. Didn't even think of it before.

I've got the Sennheiser HD598 and will be getting the AKG K7XX (that recently showed up on Massdrop) so I ended up getting a headphone DAC/Amp, THIS one specifically as it was mentioned by /u/ZeosPantara of being great. I feel a bit stupid because as you probably guessed it: I don't need a DAC, I would just like the headphone AMP'd as I will be using my soundcard as the DAC itself. I'm going to be going OPT OUT from SOUNDCARD to DAC. My question once again is: Do you think it'll retain all the surround sound qualities that it did when I was plugging my headphones directly into my sound card, things like SBX and Scout Mode if I went through SPDIF TOSLink instead of 3.5mm AUX?

If not, then I will simply either return it (or sell it) and start building an Objective 2 Amp :)))).

Seriously dude, its crazy to think where I am NOW in relation to audio fidelity and where I was a year ago. Back then, I thought the Astro Mixamp was the be all/end all of sound clarity. This is very exciting stuff!

Also, have some Gold. ;) Thanks buddy!

This may be due to your on-board sound. Before spending, I would test out the headphones on a different PC/source. Make sure it isn't just the headphones themselves.

Then, when you are ready to buy, get an external dac/amp, basically an external sound card. Check out the Micca Origen($100), Fiio E10k($76), Monoprice Dac/Amp($80), and SMSL SD793-II($63).

These are speaker posts, for passive speakers. To connect a line-level signal (what's inside your RCA cable) to speakers with this kind of connection, you'll need an amplifier.

the SMSL amplifiers (like this one: https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC) are a popular inexpensive choice

Do yourself a favor and skip the Lepai. The SA-50 is a bit better.

http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC/

Those are passive speakers requiring separate amplification, which the Mac doesn't provide.

You could use something like the SMSL SA-50. (I need to make a macro for that sentence.):

https://smile.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC/

A cable like this from the Mac to the amp:

https://smile.amazon.com/Hosa-CMR-206-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O3B

Speaker wire from the amp to the speakers:

https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0W5Y

I am running the Fluance speakers you are asking about, and a Lepai 2020+ amp. The amp is obviously the limiting factor in my current setup. I would have to give the nod to a 50watt or more per channel amp if I wanted to fill a bigger room. Zeos likes this one, and I plan on getting it when some money comes in. http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-TDA7492-Integrated-Tripath-Amplifier/dp/B00F0H8TOC

Both speakers are around 90db, but i'd also have to side with those saying the Yamaha's are your better bet.

Tower speakers are a good option but you can get a lot of sound out of bookshelves.

SMSL SA50 and Pioneer SP-BS22-LR are a popular combination and should sound pretty good.

Yea it seems like the next best thing is the SMSL SA50 which is over 3 times as expensive. It makes a strong case for powered speakers vs the amp-speaker combo. I'm personally looking at the MB42x(es) with the SMSL but I'm wondering if that's a waste of money and I should just get the PB42x(es).

I am looking for a decent amp to push my Micca MB42X.

The Muse posted above has a ridiculous shipping date (especially compared to the free 2 day for the rest of my stuff.) Im looking at this Topping but I'm not sure. Two of my friends have the SMSL and they are not pleased with it. I have also considered the Lepai.

How much power do i really need? I live in the dorms so i won't be going obnoxiously loud, but i still want to rock out.

Thanks for any and all help!

Here is the setup I went for in a small room. This is for a desk setup in a 11x14 room. Couldn't be happier for about 250$.

Speakers: 90$
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E7H8GG2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Amp:70$
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1454215590&sr=8-1&keywords=smsl+amplifier&linkCode=sl1&tag=zeos-20&linkId=97458c4923f86af9ecf53e1a566a6fca

Sub:81$ https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KGA6A8A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wire:8.50$
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0WDQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1454214218&sr=8-4&keywords=speaker+wire&linkCode=sl1&tag=zeos-20&linkId=50aa0e85d9168eed8d40f824e4203a64
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-109436-Copper-Speaker-Banana/dp/B0097JLQVC/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1454214342&sr=8-17&keywords=speaker+cable&linkCode=sl1&tag=zeos-20&linkId=2fe231768f52ad0ca86e94f394a83fca

Plugs 10$
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-109436-Copper-Speaker-Banana/dp/B0097JLQVC/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1454214342&sr=8-17&keywords=speaker+cable&linkCode=sl1&tag=zeos-20&linkId=2fe231768f52ad0ca86e94f394a83fca

Perfect. I've been using the SMSL SA50 amp for my patio speakers. https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499781143&sr=1-4&keywords=class+d+amplifier

It's ok, but have to leave it on and doesn't have the A/B speaker option. Definitely going to get the one you recommended for the kitchen reno we're doing.

I have some decent 8ohm 40w Sony's that I'll send you for free if you pay shipping.

Also, this amp was recently recommended to me from an audiophile friend. A little above your budget, but he swears by it

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Xzaxzb8VN4XDJ

SMSL SA50 50Wx2 TDA7492 Class D Amplifier + Power Adapter (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_0Mb.wbN21Z6ZR

I built a set for my girlfriend a while back, paired them with this. They sounded tremendous.

I am planning on buying some ELAC B6s but I need an amplifier. I will mostly be listening to music through streaming services like Spotify in my room. I had this SMSL SA50 amplifier recommended to me. I was told it'd be fine for my purposes and if so I'll buy it but if you've got other recommendations, I'd love to hear them. I'm willing to buy used. I live in the Salt Lake City, UT area. I'd like to not spend much more than $100 for one though. I'm planning on using Chromecast Audio to make it a wireless setup. I'd love to hear any thoughts and suggestions or advice.

Anything bluetooth/portable will be way less value for money so only do that if you need it to be bluetooth/portable.

I would second the recommendation for passive speakers, but for your use case maybe also consider slightly cheaper speakers than most around here would recommend, and pairing it with a sub.

Something like this sub or this
With a small amp like this

And then spend the remaining 120-170 on some passive bookshelf speakers [(a list)](https://www.reddit.com/r/AverageJoeAudiophile/comments/3uoksp /i_have_xxxxx_to_spend_what_should_i_buy_bookshelf/)

Someone else may help you narrow down which speakers. Edit: The Pioneer BS22 looks like a good option.

I'd be happy to help!

So these floorstanding speakers take speaker wire to carry sound and power to them. This can be done two ways:

1. Use a receiver. A receiver would be used to run your separate sources into, (for example running an Xbox One in through HDMI, or a phone through an RCA>3.5mm cable), and then using speaker wire to run to the speakers. Audio can be transferred to the receiver in many different ways: RCA, HDMI, Optical, Coax, just let me know where you want to get your sound from. Simple as that. Different receivers are more or less reliable than others, and some will provide cleaner/stronger power to your speakers, but I'd suggest sticking to some bigger brands when choosing a stereo receiver such as Yamaha, Denon, Sony, Pioneer, Marantz, etc.
   
   .
   
   Now, if you only need one place to get sound from one source (for example you ONLY want to run your TV to the speakers), look into a simple 2 channel amplifier. This will take an audio signal, and send it straight to the speakers, even simpler than using a receiver. Let me know if you have any questions.
   
   

If you already have this setup just stick with it. It's a fine starter setup. The Lepai amp is very good for the price. You can jump up to THIS or THIS, which I have and really like. For budget speakers check out THESE or the Miccas are a fine pick.

This setup you listed will play your albums. You can always upgrade down the road but you're on the right track for a budget setup. I would try to save up a little more but you've got all the necessary parts to play albums on a 2.0 setup. Oh you need speaker cables and RCAs but other than that you're good

that would be true with powered speakers, but the polk audio need an amp to power them. the interface is only a digital to analogue converter in your case, taking the digital signal from your pc, via usb, and turning it in a analogue signal for your amp, or headphones.

​

https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1543317762&sr=8-1&keywords=SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492

​

This is an example for a little amp you could use

​

​

The Micca speakers has been around for a few years and there hasnt really been any competitors in that price range and size. The Dayton Audio subwoofers, no matter wich you pick, is good for its price. You can get better speakers if you go up in size or price.


The only tricky bit is to pick an amplifier. You mentioned in a different post that you saw a Kinter amplifier similar of the Lepai LP2020TI.


That amplifier actually uses the Tripath TA2020 amplifier chip, wich is a good chip. Wich is also why it costs a bit more. The Lepai uses the Texas Instruments TPA3118, while a good chip, is not quite as good as the TA2020


https://www.amazon.com/Kinter-K2020A-ORIGINAL-TA2020-020-Amplifier/dp/B077Z7DBRT

Exactly. A proper stereo is the solution here. Use a decent amp and speakers for the audio and pair it with an Echo Dot to control it, using the line out jack on the Dot to connect it to the amp.

If /u/Treas0n is looking for a good budget option, I'd highly recommend the Lepai amp + Dayton speaker setup. This setup is the go-to budget kit on /r/audiophile and would be plenty loud with really good sound quality. It's about $90 for the whole kit (+$30-$50 for an Echo Dot):

Lepai LP-2020TI Texas Instruments TPA3118 Hi-Fi Stereo Audio Mini Amplifier with Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071FJF4FF/ (don't go for this one anymore, grab a tripath version)

Kinter K2020A+ Limited Edition ORIGINAL Tripath TA2020-020 Class-T Hi-Fi Audio Mini Amplifier with 12V 5A Power Supply Black https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077Z7DBRT

Dayton Audio B652-AIR 6-1/2" 2-Way Bookshelf Speaker with AMT Tweeter Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NOA58RS/

AmazonBasics 16-Gauge Speaker Wire - 50 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LW0WDQ/

Monoprice 105597 3-Feet Premium Stereo Male to 2RCA Male 22AWG Cable - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0094A1F3S/

If the OP wants even bigger sound then add a powered sub for $100 more (you may want to double up on your 16ga speaker wire for connecting the subwoofer between the stereo speakers and the amp)

Polk Audio PSW10 10-Inch Powered Subwoofer (Single, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KVQBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IEFWBbD0GFQVW

In my garage, I run a chromecast hooked up to this guy running a pair of 8" speakers from the 80s. :https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077Z7DBRT It's 20w and powers them just fine for the whole 2-car garage. I'm not recommending that for high volume, but it does the job. A used receiver would work really well too, they're just much larger.

​

You can get a pretty simple RCA pot volume control knob on amazon that you could use for the sub. https://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O/

Or a Kinter 2020A+ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077Z7DBRT/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_cV2ZDbT20H6EW
Haven't owned one personally but hear from many it is the original Tripath 2020 board.. i do want to order one to confirm and keep around.. Wish I knew how to mod them like some, I remember companies selling modded Lepais for $100-200 when they were $20-25 on Amazonlol
!

Would this t-amp work for this setup.


So I get speaker wires to connect it to the t-amp and then connect that to the TV?


Which and how many of the red and black outputs do I use and or which ones?


I'm sorry for all the questions as I am new to setting up speakers.

https://www.amazon.com/Kinter-K2020A-Original-TA2020-020-Amplifier/dp/B077Z7DBRT/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=T-amp&qid=1571625385&sr=8-7

I'm new to this hobby & Just made my first purchases:

Headphone - Argon MK3

Amp - Emotiva BasX A-100

DAC - JDS Labs OL DAC

If my budget was $400, I'd get the Topping MX3 for desktop all-in-one DAC/AMP for $130

https://www.amazon.com/Topping-MX3-Bluetooth-Headphome-Amplifier/dp/B075SYC4Z5

Then I'd pour the rest of that money into headphones and/or desktop speakers:

Massdrop Sennheiser HD 58X Jubilee - $160
https://drop.com/buy/massdrop-x-sennheiser-hd-58x-jubilee-headphones?originMarketingCategory=215

That would leave you with some speaker $$$$ left over for your desk, or just use up the rest on a better set of headphones.

If this has been helpful, I'd be glad to list a few more headphones I'd consider with the rest of your (nearly) $300

Researching this stuff has been a blast. DM me if you wanna chat about it more.

Good luck!

https://www.amazon.com/Kinter-K2020A-ORIGINAL-TA2020-020-Amplifier/dp/B077Z7DBRT?crid=1ADHIU46GJGMF&keywords=class+t+amplifier&qid=1540654964&sprefix=class+t+%2Caps%2C212&sr=8-3&ref=sr_1_3 and speaker wire

Check youtube for some of the budget audiophile setup vids. You can hear rich, crisp tunes for $100.

Personally, I'd check out letgo, marketplace, craigslist for the best brand you can find in your budget - regardless of age. I'm satisfied with an old Denon/JBL setup that was about $60 total. Bluetooth to Phono or RCA adapters are cheap, and there are really decent phono pre-amps out there for under $35, if that's part of your agenda.

Subwoofers are amazing, even at low volume.

If you just want an amp, without AM/FM - The Kinter 2020A+ is a clone of the original Tripath chip Lepai 2020 that became legendary a few years ago (and is not in production anymore) It also has a much better power supply. The newer Lepai units use a Texas Instruments chip.

• https://www.amazon.com/Kinter-K2020A-ORIGINAL-TA2020-020-Amplifier/dp/B077Z7DBRT/
  
  -
  
  If you want a full-fledged (budget) receiver:
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-Audio-R-S202BL-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B01EMQI2CU/
  
  (this goes for $99 on A4L as a refurb, or $99 new at Frys on promo code every month or so, randomly.)
  

It's an amplifier.

https://www.amazon.com/Kinter-K2020A-Original-TA2020-020-Amplifier/dp/B077Z7DBRT/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=kinter&qid=1565146004&s=gateway&sr=8-1

I had to swap the faceplate upside down which was difficult but worked okay. I had to shave a few mm off the PCB with a coping saw but it fits and it works. Not all the screws line up but it's held together well.

I have a SMSL SA50 Amp + Micca MB42X setup for my speaker system.

Also, you'll be fine with Malwarebytes and Windows Defender.

Hi everyone, newbie here. I bought the Micca MB42x and a smsl sa50. I would like to know if this amp is sufficient for the mb42x. I see that the recommendation here is smsl sa60. I saw that the impedance is fine of 4-8ohms. But I have no idea how the watts come into play, can you explain how this works and if my system will be fine or will it fry?

I'm using the SMSL SA50
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0H8TOC/

I started off looking at the Lepai 2x20 but after doing some research, I decided against it. I don't need 50w per channel but the Lepai only has a 12v power supply so it can't even do 20W.

Hi all,

I'm going to pick up a U-Turn Orbit Plus: http://store.uturnaudio.com/products/orbit-plus-turntable

I already have speakers and a power amp, but I'd like to get a tube pre-amp for the turntable. My power amp and speakers are nothing special:

T Amp: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0H8TOC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fluance bookshelf speakers: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00067OS0A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So I don't want to spend too much on a tube pre-amp, especially since I'm guessing most of you will say a tube pre-amp will be overkill for the current quality of speakers. I don't mind building the pre-amp either, so if there is a cool kit out there I'd go for that too.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0H8TOC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

just a cheepo guy

I want to start a new setup from scratch, do I have everything I need? This may seem like a very elementary question but I keep learning that I need different cables for this and for that

Turntable (Includes RCA cable)

Amplifier (Built in phono pre- I don't still need a preamp, do I?)

Speakers

Speaker wire (This goes from the speaker to the amplifier? Until yesterday I thought they just used RCA cables. Are banana plugs universal for all speakers?)

RCA Cable into audio jack (For computer- is something better than this that would accomplish the same thing? RCA to usb?)

> urntable, tape and CD players, and an auxiliary input


what about this Onkyo A-9010 for $299

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SY20TE8/

PS you should search for "Integrated Stereo Amplifier" instead of stereo receiver

You could take a look at the Onkyo A-9010. It's well reviewed and has a built-in phono stage that may be good enough for you. I have one paired with Wavecrest HVL-1 and I'm very happy with it doing light music/soundbar alternative duty in the family room. It doesn't have a ton of power but what it does provide is clean and should power both the KEF Q100 and Klipsch speakers to very high volume without distortion. https://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-A-9010-Integrated-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B00SY20TE8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1487725773&sr=1-1&keywords=onkyo+a-9010

You'll probably want to look into speakers then an amp in that order. Speakers tend to be the most subjective and personal piece of the setup, so get those squared away, then figure out what to drive them with.

For speakers, check out:

• Pioneer SP-B22 ($129/pair)
  
  
• PSB Alpha B1 ($299/pair)
  
  
• Wherfdale Diamond 10.1 ($299/pair)
  
  
• Klipsch RP-160M ($399/pair)
  
  
• Polk RTi A3 ($399/pair)
  
  
• DefTech ProMonitor 1000 ($439/pair)
  
  
• B&W 686 S2 ($499/pair)
  
  
• PSB Imagine Mini ($499/pair)
  
  I'm partial to Bowers and Wilkins myself.
  
  For integrated amps, look at:
  
  
• Pioneer Elite A-20 ($299 on sale right now)
  
  
• Onkyo A-9010 ($299 also on sale)
  
  
• Yamaha R-N301 ($299) or for a bit more A-S301 ($349)
  
  
• Cambridge AM10 ($349 – analog inputs only)
  
  
• NAD C316BEE ($379 – analog inputs only)
  
  
• Cambridge 351A ($399 – USB DAC)
  
  
• Harmon Kardon HK3700 ($349 – USB DAC)
  
  
• Onkyo A-9050 ($399 on sale – includes phono preamp)
  
  
• TEAC AI-301DA ($399)
  
  
• NAD D3020 ($399)
  
  With a simple computer and two bookshelfs setup, I really like the NAD D3020 or its bigger brother, the D7050. The Cambridge 351A is probably one of the better options in this range, however.
  
  Also, you might find you like powered speakers like Audioengine A5+ ($399) and HD6 ($749). AE has a great sound and features a built-in DAC. If you can demo them, see what you think.

Sub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000092TT0/ref=psdc_172568_t2_B000P0528K
Speakers
https://www.amazon.com/Debut-Bookshelf-Speakers-Andrew-Jones/dp/B014GSEQ06/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482250876&sr=8-2&keywords=elac+b6
Amp
https://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-A-9010-Integrated-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B00SY20TE8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482250953&sr=8-3&keywords=onkyo+tx-8020

I'll second the call to look at a set of Polk S20s. I just auditioned a pair of S15s and they're shockingly great for the price. Great resolution and soundstage with clean highs, gorgeous midrange, and a surprising amount of bass extension and impact. I'd have gone for the S20s myself, but space was at a premium. You can pick them up in either black walnut or brown walnut for $299 shipped, or step down to the S15s in either finish for $229 if you think the S20s are just too big for her tastes. Pair either of them with something like an Onkyo A-9010 and you have a great 2.0 system for $470 - $550.

As an aside, I totally get the having to placate your SO bit. Mine absolutely hated my previous setup, so I'm hoping she's much happier with these Polks around. Good luck!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00SY20TE8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482886606&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=onkyo+integrated+stereo+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=31Fa7ZK54aL&ref=plSrch

i assume you are in the UK, that's why i posted that one. If you shop at Amazon, they have hundreds of LePai, a popular class T/D Chinese amp that will do 20-30 watts. Something liek this: https://www.amazon.com/Lepy-LP-2024A-Amplifier-Stereo-Supply/dp/B00ULRFQ1A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466530836&sr=8-1&keywords=lepai but from a UK vendor so it will have a proper power supply

I have this http://smile.amazon.com/Lepy-LP-2024A-Amplifier-Stereo-Supply/dp/B00ULRFQ1A?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00 and this http://smile.amazon.com/Pioneer-SP-BS22-LR-Designed-Bookshelf-Loudspeakers/dp/B008NCD2LG?sa-no-redirect=1 arriving this weekend. Going to hook it up to the Dot.

I use a Lepy t-amp. I don't know it they are the same company.

https://www.amazon.com/Lepy-LP-2024A-Amplifier-Stereo-Supply/dp/B00ULRFQ1A/ref=sr_1_1?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1473906380&sr=1-1&keywords=T-amp

Awesome! Turns out my local best buy has an open box that comes out around $26, with tax. So guess Im getting that. Thanks for the advice!

Also super quick last question -

If I get those Insignia speakers and this amp - Lepy LP-2024A
, then would I need anything else to get all this set up? I plan on using these with my PC.

Thanks!

https://www.amazon.com/Lepy-LP-2024A-Amplifier-Stereo-Supply/dp/B00ULRFQ1A/

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0WDQ/

For speakers, go for the Dayton B652 Airs, or check craigslist for some decent bookshelf speakers.

What kind of speakers are they?

This will work for 2 small speakers (say 6" or smaller single woofer).

This will work for 2 small speakers with a small sub.

There are better options out there, these are questionable quality, but if you just want cheap+easy, this will work.

Example : https://www.amazon.com/Lepy-LP-2024A-Amplifier-Stereo-Supply/dp/B00ULRFQ1A

They connector via a RCA to Audio Cable like this

You wire the speakers to the amp and use the RCA to Audio cable to plug it into your computer.

You'll have to check craigslist or something. You need a phono preamp, an amp, and speakers.

Alternatively, you'll need a phono preamp, and active monitors

or an amp with phono input, and speakers.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-RX-395-2-Channel-Stereo-Receiver-Amp-Phono-Turntable-Input-AM-FM-Black-/282297973948?hash=item41ba453cbc:g:hzIAAOSwnHZYXqIl

something like this, and some junk goodwill speakers, and speaker wire are already over your budget.

the cheapest amazon stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/Lepy-LP-2024A-Amplifier-Stereo-Supply/dp/B00ULRFQ1A/ref=pd_sim_23_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00ULRFQ1A&pd_rd_r=K7NZC8MT9NE3WJGEDS7R&pd_rd_w=oS56N&pd_rd_wg=UDEDg&psc=1&refRID=K7NZC8MT9NE3WJGEDS7R

https://www.amazon.com/PYLE-PRO-PP444-Compact-Turntable-Preamp/dp/B004HJ1TTQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482864764&sr=8-3&keywords=phono+preamp

https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-B452-Bookshelf-Speaker/dp/B00Q3MF9YQ/ref=sr_1_8?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1482865038&sr=1-8&refinements=p_n_feature_two_browse-bin%3A2494592011

You'll also need rca cables and speaker wire. This will be above your budget and wont be very good. Pyle is a POS. If you double your budget you can have a much, much, much better sounding system.

The bs22s are 89.00$ right now and are a steal. That plus a goodwill amp with phono input will be far superior to the lepai pyle and dayton audio.

Local used is your best bet.

The config file is at /boot/config.txt.

By adding:

• "lcd_rotate=1" --- this turns the display 90 degrees
  
  
• "lcd_rotate=2" --- this turns the display 180 degrees
  
  
• "lcd_rotate=3" --- this turns the display 270 degrees
  
  
  > I'm currently torn between trying to shoe horn a set of usb speakers into the cab and working out some way of putting the controls outside, or mounting on the base somewhere?
  
  Here's a small stereo amp that can be used to power the speakers and control the volume.
  
  From there, you can install a storage tray somewhere to hold these ... then, when you're playing, just plop them on top of the table.

What do you mean by "OOO"? This is it, right?

EDIT: Ok, I see what you mean. Yeah the 2020A+ has ben replaced. They still make the 2024 though. I'd go for the 2020TI which is the latest revision of the 2020A+. Keep your expectations in check with these ultra cheap T amps.

You need an amplifier for those speakers.

The absolute cheapest you'd be able to get away with is this one which is roughly the same as the one at the top of this list from the sidebar.

Then you would run the RCA from the TT to the amplifier and the speaker cables from the amp through the sub, ie Amp>Sub High Level Input>Sub High Level Output>Micca Speakers.

You can then adjust the volume/crossover on the sub to fine tune the sound. I had a similar setup but with Dayton B652s

I hope this helps.

Just an amp of some sort... I use this for my two 4ohm speakers and it gets decently loud. You could spend more and get a much better amp but I was on a budget so it works about as well as a $30 amp should. You would also need some speaker wire

Edit; these are 8ohm so they would not be extremely loud but they would work at moderate volumes

I don't know a ton about the echo but it appears to have an aux output.

These little amps are popular in projects like yours.

An 1/8 to RCA cable would connect your echo to the amp, and the speaker would wire directly to the amp using whatever existing speaker wires were there.

You're not likely to get great sound out of the existing speaker but I'd leave it in place until you get something that works and then decide on an upgrade based on your needs.

My cabinet has this as an amp

https://www.amazon.ca/Version-Upgraded-Lepy-LP-2020A-Amplifier/dp/B00V9AYMZ4

And these speakers

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B001RNNX8K/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I couldn't find computer speakers that I wanted to use, so the amp and speaker system works better than I had expected it to. Just a little bit of soldering and speaker wire needed and its a nice looking more polished in a way design.

In simple terms this is what you will need.

Speakers -> Use Speaker Wire -> Amp

You will need an amp because the speakers are passive and need power (which your tv can't provide). I listed the usual bang for your buck recommendations. In addition it's up to you whether you want to get banana plugs or not, personally it's just easier to stick the wire straight into the speaker. The MB42 has 5-way binding posts that can accept banana plugs, spades, bare straight wire, and bare looped wire.

Now the easy part. You just have to connect your Amp to your tv. You said you only have optical or aux (no rca?). The amp I linked has the option to use either RCA or Aux input. My personal reccomendation is to use the RCA wire over the Aux, if you can.

And for price vs performance, you can't get too much better than the Micca MB42s. It's always highly recommended as one of the best bang for your buck speakers at that price level.

Firstly, thank you very much for the detailed response!
I have definitely confused a receiver for an amplifier, thanks for clearing that up.

Here's what my plan is:

• I have a Technics SLQ200 with a receiver, and I will be moving it to another room.
  
  
• My new table is a Sony PS212 - that will be going in the old room with existing set up (receiver and speakers).
  
  
• The new room will have my Technics TT (where I can enjoy my records more often), but there isn't the room for a receiver like the one I have already.
  
  Looking at what I linked, I don't believe its a pre-amp at all (though I said it was), it seems to be a 'mini amplifier'
  
  Would this then be sufficient for my Technics TT? I would only have to plug the input into this mini-amp and it would function like the existing receiver that I am looking to down size?
  
  Thanks again!

The thing on the left with the blue ring? That's a Lepy amp that drives the two speakers on either side of the monitor.

You need a connect for the setup you want.

I suggest emulating a Sonos until you can or want to go for a Connect setup.

Go for a chromecast audio. Buy one of these for your Amp:

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00V9AYMZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_pd4jyb6441J5F

Get a couple of decent in ceiling, outdoor speakers - mono price has some decent ones.

Someday you can replace the chromecast and amp with a connect amp.

so any old cd/dvd player will work? all i need to do is plug in the RCA cables into the amp?


The Amp

The Speakers

wire

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B002RMPHMU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494961794&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=dayton+audio&dpPl=1&dpID=41h2GNNeZmL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00V9AYMZ4/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1494961826&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=dayton+audio&dpPl=1&dpID=51CYEIW6bgL&ref=plSrch


You can add a sub also if you'd like but this setup will blow anything away for the price

I've got one of these running with an old pair of speakers from a Sony stereo and it's decent for the price.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00V9AYMZ4/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Might have to go separate.

I have a cheap DAC/Headphone amp to act as my "sound card" and it has a 1/4 inch headphone output. On the back it has outputs for speakers and I have that going into my speaker amp, the Lepy LP-2020A.

It seems to work pretty good, one knob for heaphones, one for speakers.

I just run this. https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Source-AMP100VS-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00ZSEFU94

I'd love to do full zone control throughout the house, but would want each Echo unit in each room to come through over the room speakers. It's easier for me to isolate each room to it's own amp unit and then connect a media player to it that can be synced with other media players.

Do you have any aesthetic expectations?

I would use a laptop as a source, buy a Fiio DAC, get an audiosource amp, and buy a set of ELAC B6

That's in your price range, but it completely skips the idea of "stereo system" and relies on you owning a computer to dedicate to music.

I woudl have a completely different plan if it was dedicated installed stereo or something that you wanted portable.

Select any half decent weatherproof speakers (I have a set of Yamaha's that whilst not the best sounding, have forgiven me a couple of midwest winters where I forgot to bring them inside).

​

Grab an auto-sensing amp. This used to be a decent buy but has gotten a little pricey of late: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZSEFU94/ref=psdc_537344_t1_B01N3QXFDG

​

Grab an AE (second gen if you really want AP2).

​

It'll cost a little more than a single all-in-one, but will sound better, and is a lot easier to service when something inevitably breaks.

This audiosource amp is one I see a lot of people using to upgrade their setups to 7.1.4.

Holy wall of text!



Are you trying to start over and replace all over equipment or reuse your existing? .. because you went into a lot of detail describing your existing setup



Assuming starting mostly fresh.. I like Chromecast Audios. You can connect them to almost any audio device and control from any phone / computer. It also doesn't require the phone / computer to continue playing (it just acts as a remote)

I have them in closets around the house connected to auto sensing amps which connect to my ceiling speakers. You can also just connect them to normal stereo systems and either leave it on all the time or use Home Assistant to turn them on/off.

If you can easily run wires, you might also consider a whole house audio system, like from HTD. Personally I decided I preferred the flexibility of a CCA based system.

I'd take a look at these - not that some combinations of amps/speakers will go over $1K by a little bit, so if it's a hard limit keep that in mind (one will limit the other). Equally, I'm assuming you already have a phono preamp or that your TT has one built in.

Focals (Guy also has bookshelf and sub from Focal too as an alternative option for a similar price)

PSB

Monitor Audio

NHT

For amplifier I'd say Yamaha but if you have to save money and don't need digital in this pioneer should work pretty well also, but you may want an extended warranty based on possible QA issues.

If you want to look cheaper you'll need to surrender the remote.

This Audiosource offers pretty good value. It's worth noting that it may have some slight bass roll-off based on the prior version (roughly 1dB at 20hz), but it will be difficult finding something that even touches it in that price range specifically.

If you go used and up the price you get a bit better performance from this Emotiva. If going this route confirm they have the original purchase paperwork - Emotiva has a transferable 5-year warranty on this which definitely eases anxiety on a $200 used electronic device purchase IME. If not I'm not sure I would buy it, but that's me.

Meh, those are pretty docile open in-wall speakers, so you're not gonna get much out of them beyond what the receiver can already push out. I wouldn't spend extra money on a serious amplifier until you get better speakers. Something like the AudioSource AMP100VS should be fine to power two of your overheads.

Two of these amps? https://amzn.com/B00ZSEFU94

Assuming the speakers match up fairly well with those amps in terms of sensitivity and power requirements, I think you should be fine. The line out from the Origen+ can control the volume. You would then split the Left / Right signals with a 3.5mm to RCA Y adapter, and connect the R channel to 1 amp, and L channel to the other - is that correct? Reading the Amp owner's manual, it shows the amp only needs a single input using the bottom-middle RCA connector for bridged mono mode.

I don't see anything wrong with this setup. It is a little unusual - an inexpensive home theater receiver might provide better overall features and power without the connectivity issues.

I digress... The number of connectors and length of cable used would probably influence distortion more than the output of the Origen would. Keeping the signal path away from power sources will help as well.

Also, I don't see how replacing the Origen with a Magni 2 Uber would net you massive audio quality improvements, especially where budget is concerned. Unless you need the coax input for some reason.

I hope that helps? Pretty unique situation. Good luck.

I have them as well. They punch WAY above their $34 pricetag. If you want to get real fancy, run them off this: Nobsound NS-08E Vacuum Tube Headphone Amplifier Hi-Fi Valve Headphone Amp Stereo Audio Preamplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014FASL1A/

this one looks pretty solid actually for 50$

http://www.amazon.com/Nobsound%C2%AE-Vacuum-Integrated-Amplifier-Headphone/dp/B014FASL1A?ie=UTF8&keywords=headphone%20amp&qid=1464386957&ref_=sr_1_4&sr=8-4


http://www.head-fi.org/t/794796/nobsound-ns-08e-also-know-as-nobsound-6j9-hybrid-tube-amp


Some people talking about it on head fi saying they're impressed


if you want to spend 100$ its pretty hard to beat the Schiit which would let you add a DAC later... I use the Schiit M&M stack and its glorious. I got an amp first and a dac later


http://schiit.com/

edit: I also feel like I should mention, if you have a soundcard you will need to use a line out instead of a headphone jack when you get your amp. The headphone jack in your soundcard will already have an amplifier. So you will be double amplifying which will make your sound not so good. I had this problem originally and had to switch to a line out

The Behringer U Phoria is a soundcard. Even if they sell it talking about "audiophile quality" i don't believe it...
Maybe if you spend some bucks more you can afford the Nobsound NS-08E. It's a decent tube amplifier and it's very, very cheap.


https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-NS-08E-Integrated-Amplifier-Headphone/dp/B014FASL1A/ref=sr_1_17?crid=R1MTCDPOFMVB&keywords=headphone+amplifier&qid=1556805776&s=electronics&sprefix=headphone+amp%2Caps%2C276&sr=1-17


To be honest: this is only an amplifier. Your next step could be waiting to have the money for a decent DAC, so you'll enjoy a liquid audio quality at 192khz. I've recently purchased the SMSL Sanskrit 10th anniversary and i can say it's a damn good cheap bargain.

In my experience if they're under powered they have like 0 bass and you gotta have them at a decently high volume even fully powered to get the bass to kick. What genre are you listening to?

Also for a cheap amp I gotta suggest https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-NS-08E-Integrated-Amplifier-Headphone/dp/B014FASL1A/ used it for a while with my 650 and while its not true tube sound, its definitely a strong amp for 50 bucks.

but yea, if you're listening to bass heavy stuff you're gonna want a different headphone. 650s are great all around but not for that new age rap and trap or whatever that is just purely bass driven with random stuff mixed in.

It's hard to go wrong with SMSL's amps. The AD-18 is on sale at Amazon for $130: https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-AD18-Amplifier-Bluetooth-Subwoofer/dp/B071JN7GXN/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542854712&sr=8-3&keywords=smsl+ad18 (I don't see this on Parts Express.) I've got one, and it's served me well.

​

There's also the SMSL Q5. It doesn't have all the features the AD-18 does, like it doesn't have Bluetooth, and is 50w per channel compared to the AD-18's 80w. But it is $115 at PE: https://www.parts-express.com/smsl-q5-pro-stereo-amplifier-usb-optical-coaxial-dac-with-subwoofer-output-2x40w--230-210

KEF Q100s are on this weekend for $299. Pair that with a dac/amp (SMSL AD18 perhaps) and you’ll be rocking. It’s a bit over your budget but these speakers are usually $600. Also note these are often found in store for those prices if you don’t want to ship.

Here’s the SMSL AD18, another benefit is this does Bluetooth too...

SMSL AD18 HiFi Audio Stereo Amplifier with Bluetooth 4.2 Supports Apt-X,USB DSP Full Digital Power Amplifier 2.1 for Speaker,Small 80Wx2 Class D Amplifier with Subwoofer Output https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JN7GXN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lLW9Bb8MA65VS

I'm with /u/polypeptide147 on this. The more features, the more possibilities for noise, etc.

The cheap amps I own are all much more heavily affected by power noise, crappy audio cables, etc. The Lepai 2020ti handles it better than most. It also benefits from a good power supply.

For example, this line of amps are decent for an outdoor / garage audio setup, but I would never use one on a computer (speaker hiss, very noisy when idle). You're going to be much more sensitive to speaker hiss and distortion, along with many of the "featureful" amps having auto-shutoffs with a slight delay coming back on (causing the start of notification sounds to get cut off).

Edit: if you want featureful, I would go with something like the SMSL AD18 (no personal experience with them) or the Klipsch Powergate (What I'm currently using. See my comment here for some issues I have with it.)

I use an SMSL AD18 and it’s a beast of a thing for the price and size. Recommend. Over budget a little (£122) but could get from China cheaper.

SMSL AD18 HIFI Audio Stereo Power Amplifier with Bluetooth Subwoofer Output https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B071JN7GXN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VJ.5CbN7XFNJ9

To complicated and confusing. Can you cut to the chase?

You knocked something into something ... then what happened?

"I accidentally kick the hi-fi and knocked it onto the tuner." ...and then ...what?

So, what is it you need? Seemingly a remote, but what happened to the existing remote?

The remote had a AUX/MD switch, but what is MD?

You CAN NOT run the speakers directly from the Computer.

If you want a full universal remote, nothing beats the Logitech Harmony Remotes. Harmony has many thousands of devices that they support, and you can check them in advance on-line to be sure your device is supported.

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harmony-Infrared-Universal-Programmable/dp/B004OVECU0/

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harmony-350-Simple-Set-up/dp/B00J7KM5X4/

I use the Harmony 350 with Rotel, Onkyo, Yamaha Stereos with out any problem or conflict.

You plug the Remote into a computer USB input, the go to MyHarmony.com, enter your equipment, it is automatically programmed through the USB connection. No messing with codes or pushing the On/Off button 50 times.

https://www.myharmony.com/en-us/

Now if you want to replace your amp, then consider what features you need and how much money you want to spend. You can get a very good very reasonably price Amp w/DAC and decent power for a pretty reasonable price -

SMSL AD-18 Class-D Amp with DAC - $139 -

https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-AD18-Amplifier-Bluetooth-Subwoofer/dp/B071JN7GXN/

You will find several very positive reviews of this product on YouTube, this being one of many -

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEooiaet9eQ

There are many of these Class-D/Class-T amps available on Amazon, the prices range from about $25 up to about $150 depending on brand, power, and features.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=smsl+amp&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=lepai+lepy+amp&ref=nb_sb_noss

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=topping+amp&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

I'm still not sure what the problem is or what you need, but hopefully I've given you some options to consider.

In your situation a cheap DAC like this will do: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXJ83G4/
No amp required.

If you do want to spend money anyway, here's a decent one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JN7GXN/

https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-AD18-Amplifier-Bluetooth-Subwoofer/dp/B071JN7GXN/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=orbaudio&qid=1550773297&s=electronics&sr=1-8

https://www.amazon.com/OSD-Audio-Profile-Subwoofer-Injection/dp/B07F92J9C8/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=OSD+subwoofer&qid=1550773359&s=electronics&sr=1-3
https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-MS-BP1B-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B075Y28ZSN/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1OLBTE2RQN5MJ&keywords=4+bookshelf+speakers&qid=1550773406&s=electronics&sprefix=4+bookshel%2Celectronics%2C174&sr=1-4

https://www.amazon.com/PERLESMITH-Adjustable-Stands-Extends-Satellite-8lbs-Heavy/dp/B07925B8PD/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=satellite+speaker+stands&qid=1550773453&s=electronics&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1

This SMSL AD18 amp seems to be a popular choice in this subreddit. $145, features Bluetooth with Aptx, powers bookshelf speakers well, and a small form factor.

Pyle tends to be discouraged here

Topping or SMLS will be your best bet for mini amp brands

SMLS AD-18

SMLS AD-13

Topping MX3 also on sale here

Remote Ability Add On would allow you to add a universal remote to your current setup (from what I understand)

Or a PreAmp like this

Chromecast Audio would let you add wireless streaming to an amp without bluetooth

If you dont mind something larger, an AVR receiver like this or this will be your best option

Sidebar suggestions

This is what I currently use, and it's small enough to fit under my 27in monitor.

SMSL AD18 HiFi Audio Stereo Amplifier with Bluetooth 4.2 Supports Apt-X,USB DSP Full Digital Power Amplifier 2.1 for Speaker,Small 80Wx2 Class D Amplifier with Subwoofer Output https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JN7GXN/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_zKHUCbH9HTWX4

Have you ever heard a pair of Klipsch speakers? Reason I ask is that they can be fatiguingly bright, especially when not using any room correction that might tame them down a bit. I had a pair of unpowered R-14 that I only listened to for about 15 minutes before returning them to Amazon.

I would recommend considering something like the Micca RB42 which have been highly praised to the point of consistently selling out as soon as they come into stock. Review.

You should keep an eye on this auction for Jamo C103 which are originally $1600/pair and sound incredible down to 45hz. Review If these end up around your price range, try and snag them.

Third option: Jamo C93 on ebay. Same tweeter as above, smaller woofer, will still fill a family room. Review.

You might be wanting to stay away from a home theater receiver which I can understand for space, but going with powered speakers really does limit your options. I would entertain looking at a smaller amp like the AD18 that includes bluetooth connectivity and optical for your TV.

EDIT: Would actually recommend playing your music off your TV => optical instead of bluetooth. Spotify connect/airplay is great and then other people can change the song using the TV remote.

That's a funky media cabinet since most home audio amps and receiver run about 17" wide. Strange.

I think with the PS Sprout 100, you are certainly paying the boutique audio vendor electronics tax. And measurements for it's DAC are a little disappointing given the price https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/review-and-measurements-of-ps-audio-sprout100.7049/

If you only need one set of analog inputs, the Emotiva A-100 is a solid choice for $250. It's a no frills power amp with volume control, and that's it: https://emotiva.com/collections/amps/products/a-100

If you would like something with more bells and whistles, the SMSL AD18 could work very well for you: https://www.amazon.com/S-M-S-L-AD18-Amplifier-Bluetooth-Subwoofer/dp/B071JN7GXN/

These will all do great for a multimedia speaker system.

Kanto Yu4 (4" speaker) -
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kanto-Powered-Speakers-Bluetooth®-Preamp/dp/B01N7OMH3M

Kanto Yu6 (5.25" speaker, bigger but will have better output)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kanto-Powered-Speakers-Bluetooth®-Preamp/dp/B01N1YSXWE

or

Vanatoo Transparent Zero's
https://www.amazon.com/Vanatoo-Transparent-Powered-Speakers-Black/dp/B01N33WUJ9

As for subwoofers you really can get anything you like. From the budget Bic F12 to the matching Yu Sub8 to anything SVS makes. I know you listed your budget in Euro's, but I don't know a common site like Amazon to just get you basic pricing in Euro's so forgive the links to all over the world.

The other option is to go passive.

Amplifier: SMSL AD18 w/ subwoofer output
https://www.amazon.co.uk/AD18-Hi-Fi-Stereo-Amplifier-Bluetooth/dp/B071JN7GXN

Speakers/sub: Anything really. This more depends on regional pricing and availability. Here we can get the KEF Q100's for around $250-$300 US. But anything well reviewed that only needs around 40w of power will work well with that amplifier. There's a good number of well reviewed subs that will work for you with the €350 ish left after the DAC/amp and speakers.

Having more wattage available than you need is fine. The high wattage numbers only come into play when you crank the volume like mad.

So what are you looking for, just 2 channel stereo? That can be had quite cheap.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AD18-Stereo-Amplifier-Bluetooth-Subwoofer/dp/B071JN7GXN/ - one of the go-to suggestions lately for a simple 2-channel DAC/amp.

Or, https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tangent-Ampster-BT-HiFi-Amplifier/dp/B07K5H8FB3/ (there seems to be pics of the other components mixed in, but it should be this unit https://tangent-audio.com/products/9-electronics/162-tangent-ampster-bt-ii/ )

Or, https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dayton-DTA-PRO-Bluetooth-Amplifier-Remote/dp/B07MQVWW43

Etc.

I might go with the Tangent, just because it looks great, doesn't have any flashing lights to annoy you, it has a sub output which may come in handy (though the others do too I believe) and you can get a tuner and CD player in the same look if you want to.

If you want to connect a lot of units to it, you may have issues. There are optical Toslink switches you could use to connect multiple items over optical to its one optical in, though. Or a high quality RCA switch.

Consider an external DAC/AMP. They'll drive a lot more power to your headphones/speakers than the mobo, and I find it easier to control my audio from an external hub. They get crazy expensive, but I've been using the SMSL AD18 for a year and a half, and I think it's neat.

EDIT: I am dumb I just saw you wanted closed back.

​

open back or closed back? Open back is better for gaming but others will be able to hear what you hear. If it doesn't matter then open back for gaming.

OPEN Headphones:

ATH-AD700X - ~95 - 100 new https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-AD700X-Audiophile-Open-Air-Headphones/dp/B009S332TQ/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=ATH-AD700x&qid=1563901733&s=gateway&sr=8-2

ATH-AD900x - ~135 new https://www.amazon.com/Technica-ATH-AD900X-Open-Back-Audiophile-Headphones/dp/B009S331VU/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ATH-AD700x&qid=1563901733&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

HE4XX - $180 new https://drop.com/buy/massdrop-x-hifiman-he4xx-planar-magnetic-headphones

​

Sennheiser HD 58X - 160 new - https://drop.com/buy/massdrop-x-sennheiser-hd-58x-jubilee-headphones

​

Closed headphones:

ATH m40x - $100 new https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40x-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR54/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ATH+m40x&qid=1563902298&s=gateway&sr=8-3

These are deemed better than the m50x's

​

DT770 80 ohm - 135 new https://www.amazon.com/beyerdynamic-770-PRO-Studio-Headphone/dp/B0016MNAAI/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=DT770+80+ohm&qid=1563902448&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

ATH-MSR7 - 175 new https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-MSR7BK-SonicPro-High-Resolution-Headphones/dp/B00PEUBIKM/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ATH%2Bmsr7&qid=1563902327&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1

I owned these and played CSGO and I had no issues hearing anyone. I made it to LEM (if that matters to you) Very clear audio. I also never used an amp with these so they can only get better. if you have more questions on these just message me, I can compare them to the HE4xx's as I now own those.

​

AMP & Dac:

FX Audio DAC X6 - ~54.99 new https://www.amazon.com/FX-Audio-Optical-Coaxial-Amplifier/dp/B072JJT7SF/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=FX+Audio+DAC+X6&qid=1563901865&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

Schiit Fulla 2 - ~120 new https://www.amazon.com/Schiit-Fulla-Converter-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B07KWG13Q4/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Schiit+Fulla+2&qid=1563902076&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

Basically I am no expert as I am just getting into the DAC/AMP world but from my research and this subreddits wiki and other sources, it seems better to put your money into better headphones and then into a better DAC/AMP. I would look for a used pair of headphones from

/r/AVexchange or /r/hardwareswap if you are wanting something better, I picked up a pair of HE4xx for 110 shipped.

​

Just my two cents. I could be wrong and anyone please feel free to correct me as I am still learning all this.

Cheapest is probably the FX Audio X6 DAC/amp.

If looking for an amp alone, the Schiit Magni 3 is hard to beat in the sub $100 range.

Benefits of an external DAC are a little hard to predict. If you have issues now, like hiss or humming or static in your computer audio, an external DAC will solve this. But an inexpensive DAC may not be a huge improvement over computer audio if you have no obvious problems now.

The PS4 is iffy with audio addons.

Some USB soundcards do work I can try one later today when I get off work, but what I usually used instead was a DAC/AMP combo that connects to either your TV optical or PS4 optical port.

I can link the one that I use. Link

If you absolutely want a dac I would recommend the fx audio dac x6 https://www.amazon.com/FX-Audio-Optical-Coaxial-Amplifier/dp/B072JJT7SF/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1550191374&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=fx+audio+dac+x6&psc=1

Will I see an improvement in sound with a dac/amp even though it would be connecting to the motherboard sound through s/pdif? The dac/amp I am looking at is this one

Can my current dac/amp drive the MassDrop 6xx?

Maybe you could instead get a optical splitter and a SMSL SD793-II. So then you can run your source into the splitter, then split 1 goes to your speaker amp+DAC, and split 2 goes to your headphone amp+DAC.

Wanting to get a new amp or AMP/DAC combo

Budget - $150

Source - Current source is a Fiio E10

Current Headphones - Hifiman HE-400

Preferred tonal balance - I like a warmer sound more than a bright sound.

Preferred Music - Everything. From Dubstep and DnB to Indie rock and metal.

What would you like to improve on from your set-up - Just looking to change out my Fiio since the headphone amp section of it is dying.


Hey guys! So the headphone amp section on my Fiio E10 DAC/amp is starting to die. I'm getting weird thumping and clicking noises from it and sometimes it cuts out all together.

So now I'm on the search for a new amp. The DAC section and the output on the rear of the Fiio still works fine so getting a standalone amp instead of a amp/DAC combo is an option. Just not sure if the DAC in the E10 is good or not.

I also use the Fiio rear output to run to my speaker amp so maybe a new DAC/amp combo would be a better choice.

Right now I am looking at two things:

Amp: Little Dot I+ http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A2QM5O6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=A2Q0JVLI22BSVA

Amp/DAC: SMSL SD793-ii : http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A2QLPJM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_5&smid=A1V0149CC6WCAD

Any opinions? The SMSL is quiet a bit cheaper so I'll be able to get a set of velour pads for my headphones if I get that.

Not sure what you want to know but ill try my best to name everything I can think of.

Monitor 1: Benqxl2720z

Monitor 2: BenqGW2265HM

Monitor Stand: http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00C78QS68?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00

Microphone: Blue Snowball

DAC: http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00A2QLPJM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

Speakers: Logitech Z10

headphones: Senheiser Momentum

Keyboard: WASD keyboard with Rosewill blue ABS Caps.

That will be really hard. You could get a pair of Monoprice speakers for as little as $60. Then drive it with a power amp that you can get for about $40-$60. Consider the SMSL SA50 although it is a tad more expensive, or a Tripath Class T TA2020 chip amp such as the Lepai for $27. If you don't drive it hard, these TA2020 amps sound as good as $1k amps, and I am not even exaggerating. Hook it up with a $20 CD/DVD player and/or a $35 Google Chromecast that will do high quality wireless streaming audio and even supports high res audio.

Edit: The Micca speakers are also for $60.

I had the same issue, best thing I found was this receiver hooked up to a Chromecast audio. I leave the amp powered on at like 60% volume. It is very energy efficient, burns ~1 watt when on but not playing anything according to my kill-a-watt.

http://i.imgur.com/YYxecNl.jpg

SMSL SA50 50Wx2 TDA7492 Class D Amplifier + Power Adapter (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gPvCybQF53XPB

Now I can use Google home to send music to a room, woot! And I can cast to multiple rooms at once.

I had such good success with this setup I got 3 amps for 3 separate zones in my house. Only thing I'm missing now is the ability to cast to Sonos in our living room using Google home or synchronization of sonos/cast zones.

Budget 200-500 €.

I am looking for a stereo for my HTPC. I listen to all my music, watch all my tv and play all my games via it. So I'm anywhere between 2 meters in the couch to 8 meters away from it. This means I've only got one analouge audio source to bother with - the two RCA connectors on the sound card, which is an Asus Xonar Essence STX if that matters. I never play loud music 'cause of neighbours so I'm not looking for a powerful system capable of drowning out the vaccum cleaner or running water in the sink.

I'm willing to buy used but since I live in Sweden, used market is a bit smaller than the one in the US.

Bonus points if the system is aesthetically pleasing and not too intrusive. There's a regular sized slot in the TV bench that measures 30h x 60w x 60d (cm) and would take a regular sized reciever/amp. I would love to have an amp with old-school VU meters but I would guess that would be out of my price range :) ) There is space both on the tv bench for speakers and next to it for free standing speakers.

Should I go with active or passive speakers? Should I get floor standing speakers or not?


Edit/update: Would this work for me?

Klipsch RB-61 II
SMSL SA50 amp

https://www.komplett.se/product/771307/tv-ljud-bild/hogtalare/stativhogtalare/klipsch-rb-61-ii-svarta-stativhogtalare#
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=pd_sim_23_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00F0H8TOC&pd_rd_r=47VERT43P6CEQ89E32GZ&pd_rd_w=CGnwg&pd_rd_wg=LIpy5&psc=1&refRID=47VERT43P6CEQ89E32GZ

Yes, you could leave the receiver on, it would use a lot of power though. You can get a cheap digital amp that would be much more efficient, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eUygAbEA4RYCG

https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00E7H8GG2

There. 5 pairs of those for under 500, and they will blow the Logitech speakers out of the water in every aspect.

As for amps, you either need an industrial amp with 10 outputs, or buy 5 smaller amps. SMSL makes good stuff, and doesn't cost a whole lot.

https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC

And you should still be able to come in under 1k.

The $25 Lepai LP-2020TI will get the job done at normal volumes:
https://www.parts-express.com/lepai-lp-2020ti-digital-hi-fi-audio-mini-class-d-stereo-amplifier-with-power-supply--310-3000

If you can afford to spend more, something like the SMSL SA50 would be a beefy upgrade that could really open the C-Notes up, but it's $68, so that might be outside of what you were looking to spend:
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC

smsl sa-50 should be powerful enough for it unless you want it to go really loud.

These are your best bet in my opinion. They will sound better than that logitech system, and probably last longer as well. With the logitech system you are tying yourself down to using their sub, which means that if you decide you want better bass in the future you will have to either scrap the whole system and start over with dedicated speakers, or try to reuse the Logitech speakers and end up with something sub-par. With the Miccas, you can just add an RCA splitter and a subwoofer and be good to go.

If you want even more flexibility, go with the unpowered Miccas and get an amp like the SMSL SA50, which will be more power than you would ever need for those speakers for near-field (close up) listening.

To save a little money now you could also go with the Micca MB42 instead of the MB42x. The MB42x come with an upgraded crossover and according to most reviewers it is very much worth it to get the upgraded version.

If you really want your system to last a long time, you are much better off separating your components. Get a pair of speakers, get an amp for the speakers, and get a sub all as separate components. That way, you can upgrade components individually in the future without needing to scrap the whole system like you would need to do with the Logitechs. This also applies if a component breaks; you can replace one thing at a time. And even without upgrading, you will still end up with a much, much better sounding system for not much more money.

I'm planning on upgrading my amplifier. I need a no-nonsense, can be bare bones, stereo amp. I have a pair of Bang and Olufsen Beovox RL 1000 speakers, a Project Debut Carbon, and will soon have a 'good' preamp (Schiit Mani, whenever it gets released). I have my headphone setup on my computer so all this will be is TT -> speakers, so something like the SMSL SA40 caught my eye. I'm not sure if the Topping amps are well regarded, but some of them have a dual input, which might be nice to have for my iPod to pump out ALAC/AAC to my stereo system, but not a requirement.

I'm looking to spend around $100-$200 for a decent amp, separate from the $130 for the Schiit Mani.

It's a little more, but you could get a set of passive speakers and a small amp, you'd need some speaker wire and a 3.5mm to RCA Phono cable to connect it to your PC, but it will sound way better than those desktop speaker packages from logitech etc

https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00E7H8GG2/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0H8TOC

I know you already have a receiver, but for simplcity I would recommend a small class D amp like this. Chip amps like these run off a laptop charger basically and are very efficient. I leave mine on 24/7 and it only uses real power when it's amplifying music. You pair that with a 3.5mm to RCA adapter and a Chromecast Audio and you're set.

Easy control of the music by voice or by phone. We use spotify with our Google Home's and love it. Currently running my setup on 4 in-ceiling speakers. I plan to replicate this to outdoor speakers for my back deck. When you starting adding more zones my method is pretty economical compared to other multi-zone amplifiers.

Exactly! The only benefit of a receiver is it's ability to take signal from hdmi. Something like this would be more than enough power at 80wpc, with built in bluetooth, aux in, and a few digital ins as well if your computer doesn't have a good aux/headphone out.

Or you could go with something a bit cheaper, like this. That one only has one aux(rca) in, so you'd need an aux to rca, female or male. For bluetooth with that amp, I'd get one of these as well as an aux splitter. That way you don't have to unplug anything to switch between bluetooth and aux.

While you will certainly get better value from a ss amp in that price range here are some tube amps...

[i have this one and am quite impressed with the sound] (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/32443111524/32443111524.html)


["portable" but has bad reviews] (http://s.aliexpress.com/b6BB7Bbu)

Has a dac but is more expensive

[more expensive] (http://s.aliexpress.com/Znmumi67)

[bad reviews] (http://s.aliexpress.com/A32EZJJn)


[probably bad] (http://s.aliexpress.com/NvYzUVvu)


[called a guitar amp but im sure it could drive headphones] (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/32748157846/32748157846.html)

[very bad reviews] (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/251876015253/251876015253)

[Looks okay] (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271969184294)

[Really good video reviewing several candidates. Definitely watch this before purchasing] (https://youtu.be/22kx0q5j-JA)


EDIT:Just read amazon only

Here are some amazon links to the above ones. They are a little bit over budget but are the cheapest ones.

[1. Recommended] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014FASL1A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482186554&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=Tube+amp&dpPl=1&dpID=41llpyTU%2BIL&ref=plSrch)

[different one] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M7101CY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482186722&sr=1-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=Tube+amp&dpPl=1&dpID=41QGAaW2nnL&ref=plSrch)

[good reviews] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ADR2DTG/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1482186784&sr=1-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Tube+amp&dpPl=1&dpID=51CV4EXJUzL&ref=plSrch)

[another one] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01I19SBK2/ref=mp_s_a_1_61?ie=UTF8&qid=1482186981&sr=8-61&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Tube+amp&dpPl=1&dpID=41zNfkGPeGL&ref=plSrch)

You wont need any amp for those headphones and it will have nearly no effect on the sound. I understand it looks nice but if you really want to improve your Audio, invest in new headphones.

Fluance Signature Series

If you don't have an amp, the SMSL Q5 Pro powers them nicely, but puts you just slightly over budget.

Why active? The JBL's are nice but any active setup offers no future upgrade path. I'd look at one of the SMSL DAC/Amp combos like the Q5 Pro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017W12UCU/ or AD18 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N8Q57FS/ with the KEF Q100s or Q300s https://www.kefdirect.com/specials/specials/q100-bookshelf-loudspeaker-pair.html https://www.kefdirect.com/specials/specials/q300-bookshelf-loudspeaker-pair.html

A number of possible solutions. Your TV has optical sound out. So you will need something to convert the optical digital sound signal to an analog signal (DAC). Then you will need something to amplify the analog signal to drive a speaker (amp). Then of course the speaker itself.

Here are some possible solutions:

• Bluetooth transmitter that takes optical input ($25-50) and two bluetooth speakers ($25-50). Many of each to choose from. You'll likely want a BT speaker that takes an AC adapter so that you can just plug the speakers into the wall outlet. So just make sure the speaker comes with some kind of AC adapter. Many of them are USB powered, so if you have a bunch of AC to USB plugs lying around, you should be all set.
  
  
• Small integrated DAC + amp like the SMSL Q5 Pro (~$100). Micca MB42 speakers ($60). The Q5 Pro has a remote, so they can adjust the volume of the speakers easily.
  
  
• Small DAC like the FiiO D3 ($25) and powered speakers (i.e., the amp is integrated into the speaker) like the Micca PB42x ($120). Volume control is a knob on the speaker.
  
  
• ... and now the controversial solution that will commit two /r/hometheater faux pas' at once. A soundbar (gasp!) possibly from Bose (double gasp!). If your parents have trouble hearing the dialogue in shows, there are modes for soundbars that are specially tuned to amplify talking. The Bose Solo 5 mini soundbar ($200) will take the optical input, convert to digital, amplify, and drive its speakers. It has a "dialogue enhancement" mode to boost the frequencies in human speech without making the background sound louder. Similarly the cheaper Amazon Basics version ($100) has a "news" mode that does the same thing. You may find that they can use these modes to hear the dialogue but not have to turn the volume up so high. Note the Amazon soundbar is quite long (31") while the Bose one is compact. You just stick the soundbar under the TV and they would not need to put speakers on their nightstands or do any wiring across the room.
  
  BT xmitter: https://www.amazon.com/HomeSpot-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Wireless-Headphones/dp/B00QV77YIC/ref=pd_sim_23_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00QV77XU6&pd_rd_r=S1FZ89HQSV360WXDPB6K&pd_rd_w=5L2XQ&pd_rd_wg=tT0TC&refRID=S1FZ89HQSV360WXDPB6K&th=1
  
  BT speaker: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Portable-Bluetooth-Speaker-Black/dp/B01GF5ACUG/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1496641001&sr=1-10&keywords=bluetooth+speakers
  
  SMSL Q5 Pro: https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Q5-Pro-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B017W12UCU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496640656&sr=8-1&keywords=smsl+q5+pro
  
  Micca MB42: https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B009IUIV4A/ref=pd_ybh_a_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=M8DF9BG3KN9NN102A6Q6
  
  Fiio D3:https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO
  
  Micca PB42x: https://www.amazon.com/Micca-PB42X-Powered-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00NXAEPDC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1496640689&sr=1-1&keywords=pb42x
  
  Bose Solo 5:https://www.amazon.com/Bose-Solo-TV-Sound-System/dp/B01AWLPUAG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496639710&sr=8-1&keywords=soundbar+dialogue#customerReviews
  
  Amazon Basics: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EK7TEL4/ref=psdc_3237803011_t1_B01AWLPUAG?th=1

How much are you willing to spend?

This looks like a good solution for your purpose without using too much space and has a remote. The used one on that page is selling for $99.

You need an amplifier with a built in DAC (or separate DAC unit to connect to the amplifier). Optical audio is a digital signal but the speakers need analog.

SMSL Q5 Pro should be able to do what you want.

I think this is Rule 1 territory though.

SMSL Q5

​

I have one. It's great.

I had the same question about a year ago... this is what i did...
Micca MB42X
Earthquake Sound FF6.5
SMSL Q5 Pro <-- I prolly wouldn't go with this again, not enough power.

I beta-tested the /u/Biblos_Geek headphone and pretty much I found the same positive results listed by the other reviewers I just read here.

I will mention what I purchased to pair up the 2E1+Vibe to make it work. The headphone to me was free but I purchased these parts to make it work (costs may have changed on Amazon since my purchase).

Class D amp at $22

3.5mm audio splitter $5

3.5mm male to male cable $5

So my costs out of pocket were under $35 (give or take). Set up was fairly simple - no more difficult than wiring up a TV with external speakers. I am profoundly deaf in one ear and somewhat normal hearing in my other working ear. I would be willing to beta_test for this again if asked. So a positive experience over all.

So i sort of went the “cheap” route for my outdoor system. Got something like this:

Lepy Amplifiers Audio Component Amplifier, Black (LP-2020A Class-D) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FZKA28Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HufwCbN9SN0FR

Then this:

4 Zone Stereo Speaker Selector Switch With Impedance Protection by AVX Audio https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TBF90C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.vfwCbEFM605G

Then got 4 cheap outdoor speakers.

Then i mounted an echo dot on the wall in my covered patio, and put a thermostat cover over it.

It delivers decent sound, and all Alexa-enabled functionality is there. I wanna say all of it only cost like $250.

TayMac ZTC100 Low Profile Thermostat Cover, Small https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008LY8900/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3yfwCb8Y4CC0D

Dual Electronics LU43PB 4 inch 3-Way High Performance Indoor, Outdoor & Bookshelf Studio Monitor Speakers with Swivel Brackets & 100 Watts Peak Power https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00081NX5U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xzfwCbAWJDGDQ

Again - very cheap, but we don’t spend enough time outside to need to spend $1,000+ on a system. This one works just fine. I remove the amp and echo dot in the winter.

EDIT: Alternatively you could get 2-3 small amps, then hook up echo inputs to them. I think they’re still $20 each on Amazon.

Would this work? https://www.amazon.com/Lepy-Amplifiers-Component-LP-2020A-Class-D/dp/B01FZKA28Y/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1543277828&sr=8-8&keywords=amplifier All I want to do is power them and connect a cell phone to them, or an audio chromecast. I am totally new to this. My stereo broke, but I don't need the cd or tape functions, just audio in.

I would go this :


https://www.amazon.com/Lepy-Amplifiers-Component-LP-2020A-Class-D/dp/B01FZKA28Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1541867492&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=419Qpe9bTPL&ref=plSrch

• 
  
  Chromecast Audio
  
  
  In fact...that's exactly what I've done to similar (outdoor) speakers

I'm using a Lepai 2020A. Super basic but it does the trick. They really sound quite good with it. Just don't quite have the punch in the low end I'm looking for. I'm attributing that to the small speaker diameter on the Minimus 7's. I've used that amp with some 6.5" speakers before with great low end results. I'm satisfied enough not to spend any more money on the audio setup though.

Hmm, not a lot to spend on speakers and headphones. Shooting from the hip, around that budget, I'd probably go one of two directions:

A pair of reasonable-ish entry-level speakers - something in the vein of the Micca [MB42] (https://www.amazon.com/Micca-PB42X-Powered-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B009IUIV4A) (which is passive, and so requires an amplifier, which can be [pretty cheap for a very budget option] (https://www.amazon.com/Lepy-LP-2020A-Class-D-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B01FZKA28Y/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=class+t+amplifier&qid=1573193876&s=electronics&sr=1-7))/[PB42X] (https://www.amazon.com/Micca-PB42X-Powered-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00NXAEPDC) (which is powered and so requires no amplifier) - which will run something a little north of $100 unless you're down to buy used, plus a reasonable lower mid end closed headphone ([NVX's branding of the Yoga CD880] (https://www.amazon.com/NVX-Over-Ear-Headphones-ComfortMax-XPT100/dp/B0093PVTPS) is a pick I like a fair bit). These speakers will be pretty alright, albeit imperfect to be sure, and there are a few decent-to-good closed-back options in the ~$100 range.

Alternatively, if speaker quality is literally of no importance, you could go for something in the budget range of those Logitechs - there really are absolutely not options that cheap that are any good at all, but if you only use speakers to occasionally listen to youtube videos, it might be acceptable. That would leave more budget to allocate to the headphone side of things, where you'd have options like [AKG's] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svAmJheRxAg) K371, NAD'S HP50,or on the used side of the street [AKG's] (https://www.rtings.com/headphones/reviews/akg/n700nc-wireless) N700NC, which are quite robust options in the closed-back world (particularly, in my opinion, the N700NC, which sounds fantastic to my ears with its digital signal processing active, and has quite good noise cancelling as well).

It's a bit of a tight squeeze regardless - if you're down with used gear, you can get a bit more for your dollar, but at very low price points you're in a space where shipping costs may dwarf savings, so even that might not help much, outside of headphones (which don't cost much to ship, and have a quite vibrant used market).

If you'd like more information or options, just let me know - I've thrown some links in above, but I'm pretty short of time today, so I figured I'd offer what I had from the top of my head rather than leaving you waiting.

few more bucks and you can do better

Actually this doesn’t have Bluetooth

> Too easy. Micca MB42 and Lepy LP-2020A

Italian here. I can't find the Micca speakers and i can only find the more expensive LP-2020A+ or what seems like a cheaper copy, since it's made by NKTECH.

Is there another fellow italian here that can point me to a similar budget setup?

​

You do not want a surround sound for listening to music. It sounds like you may just want music playing in multiple locations at once? Maybe a few echo dots will accomplish this?

​

If you want stereo https://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGain-Compact-Integrated-Amplifier/dp/B01LXV4O6B/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=integrated+amplifier&qid=1563468321&s=gateway&sr=8-14

​

Or used receiver for under $100

​

with these: https://www.amazon.com/NHT-SuperOne-2-1-Bookshelf-Speaker/dp/B00LJX4HCY/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=2Y3962S45UIV9&keywords=nht+speakers&qid=1563468383&s=gateway&sprefix=not%2Caps%2C317&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

​

Cables https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZZ5HCTM/ref=twister_B07FZTB7JS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

​

​

Edit: NO RECIEVER/AMP OPTION: https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-2017-R-14PM-Powered-Monitor/dp/B075JRF295/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp?crid=IAJ40GS5HNR2&keywords=powered+bookshelf+speakers&pd_rd_i=B075JRF295&pd_rd_r=976d8e8f-5a7d-4eaf-9a25-945ea56cf7dd&pd_rd_w=ES2tz&pd_rd_wg=IjwCE&pf_rd_p=a6d018ad-f20b-46c9-8920-433972c7d9b7&pf_rd_r=M6B9F6HZNVBK06MJQ211&qid=1563468625&refinements=p_36%3A25000-30000&rnid=386442011&s=electronics&sprefix=powered+book%2Celectronics%2C153

you just need a stereo amplifier with a USB input.

https://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGain-Compact-Integrated-Amplifier/dp/B01LXV4O6B/

https://www.amazon.com/ammoon-S-M-S-L-Portable-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B01GH4G196/

or similar.

usb should eliminate hissing.

PC will see the amp as sound output device, but will only be sending digital signal.

you're likely over-estimating how many watts you need to provide your speakers.

you can plug numbers into this calculator to figure things out.

https://www.crownaudio.com/en/tools/calculators#amp_power_required

your speakers are quite efficient, so i would guess you're only needing 25-35 watts RMS. but i don't know your room size or distance from the speakers.

-

it's not too complex to match an amp with speakers.

just make sure you are providing appropriate watts and correct ohms.

the hissing you were getting was due to your source, EMI from the analog audio output from your computer, if the hissing was happening over music it's bad SNR from the amp, if the hissing was happening when no music was playing, that's from your source. either way, it wasn't an incompatibility issue.

if you're enjoying the Atoll, i would suggest trying a USB sound card before trying a different amp.

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Headphone-Microphone-Aluminum-Compatible/dp/B00NMXY2MO/

something like a micca Origain

Amazon.com: Micca OriGain Compact Stereo Integrated Amplifier and DAC, 50W x 2, 96kHz/24-Bit, USB and Optical S/PDIF (Black): Home Audio & Theater - https://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGain-Compact-Integrated-Amplifier/dp/B01LXV4O6B/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540563229&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=micca+Origain&psc=1

or this

Amazon.com: Audioengine D1 24-bit Digital-to-Analog Converter: Electronics - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006IPH5H2/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A17IVE6SUAZA2P

Hey everyone!

I'm looking to spend about $300, but am open to spending up to $500. So between $200-500.

I currently have a AudioSource AMP-100, and am looking for a set of speakers to accompany it. I'll use this system for my computer, which I use to listen to music (typically electronic/indie), watch TV/movies, and game.

I would be willing to buy used, but am generally looking to get the best quality sound I can for the price!

If anyone has recommendations, they would be much appreciated. How would you get the most value out of this situation?

Gents, my brother is looking for some decent quality speakers for his turntable and asked for some help. He's got a $200-$300 budget in mind for the speakers. Also, he's got a Audiosource Amp-100 that he's is wondering if is worth upgrading. Thanks!

EDIT: I should mention that size is no issue for him, and that he's willing to spend a little more if the difference is really there.

This is a great company, I have a pair of their older speakers and they sound great.

Speakers: $344.50

http://www.amazon.com/SpeakerCraft-OE5-One-Outdoor-Speaker/dp/B0017LADVW/ref=sr_1_6?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1394418175&sr=1-6&keywords=speakercraft+outdoor

Amplifier: $100

http://www.amazon.com/AudioSource-AMP-100-Stereo-Power-Amplifier/dp/B00026BQJ6/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394418458&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=ausiosource+amp-100

RCA Cable: $10

http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1394418952&sr=8-13&keywords=rca+cable

Speaker Cable: $10

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0W5Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394419011&sr=8-1&keywords=speaker+cable

For Wireless music, Bluetooth receiver, $32

http://www.amazon.com/HomeSpot-NFC-enabled-Bluetooth-Receiver-System/dp/B009OBCAW2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394419052&sr=8-1&keywords=bluetooth+music+receiver

Total Cost: $496.50

Here's what I would do to get a great sound system that will work for your ipod. This is much better than any ipod dock, but is not very portable.

1. power amplifier 50W/ch $103
   
   
2. bookshelf speakers $129
   
   
3. subwoofer $107
   
   
4. mini-jack to RCA converter to plug your ipod or any other device to the amp $3
   
   
5. speaker wire
   
   The total is over $300 but will be much better than the bose system. You could find cheaper bookshelf speakers that will work too.
   

alight, I've got two suggestions for you. In both cases we're focused exclusilvely on watts per dollar here, so there's no bells or whistles on these things. You want to play the radio? use your computer. you want to EQ? also use your computer. Both of these systems can be enhanced with a sub and/or pre-amp down the road that will improve your experience. but these should work out of the gate.

Option 1: The amplifier is tried and true and speakers are very well reviewed. This system is upgradable later and should pack plenty of punch for a party.

Audiosource AMP100! $107.00

Polk Audio Monitor 50 $126 per speaker

Option 2: These are little outside of your price range, but I wanted to throw them out there as an option. You can think of these as the most kickass computer speakers ever. Completely self powered, just plug it into the wall and feed it an RCA or 1/4" input and you're ready to go. Since you're currently using a guitar amp I'm assuming that you're something of a musician, these would be great for a small home studio as well as in day to day computer use. They'll also definitely rock the house.

KRK RP8 $249 per speaker

Let me know what you settle on.

You likely need an amp of some sort. You probably don’t need a full stereo but the record player most likely has a line out that won’t power speakers directly.

If that’s the case, a simple 2 channel amp should do the job and would be cheaper than a full stereo setup.

I bought one of these cheap amps off Amazon a few years back to power some bookshelf speakers connected to my wife’s record player in her study. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00026BQJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6fNDAb9MNA0PR

Definitely search craigslist. I'm thinking more and more that what you really want is a good set of PA speakers. Carpet-lined, metal cornered, power-handling, indestructible PA speakers. In my old house (wasn't a frat, but very similar) we had Yamaha PA speakers run through a heavy-duty amplifier. The things were literally indestructible - I DJ'd on them for parties, and one (cheap old) amp blew before the speakers did.

Amazon will ship similar models to you pretty fast I think - maybe not to Canada, not sure - http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=PA+speakers&x=0&y=0 - The Pyle Pro boxes look pretty good, and the 8" model probably isn't very large at all. 4 of those to cover both zones would be killer, I would think, and you could easily hang them from the ceiling if you had good mounting chains (yeah, make sure they don't fall on anyone).

After that, the amp is important. You could go several ways. My first suggestion is check Craigslist for a fairly high-powered Yamaha home theater receiver. I prefer Yamahas in general - they have great amps, very good quality for the price, and they're built to last. Other name brands will do as well, just look for decent features.

After that, you can probably just set them up as A and B speakers on the receiver, and use that to switch between them. I'm guessing you basically want the main room speakers for music, and the TV room for both music and TV, so that should work.

Do you need surround? There are some great stereo receivers that have multi-zone capability built in. Ex: http://www.amazon.com/Sherwood-RX5502-Dual-Zone-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B000RGR50U . Otherwise a lot of 7.1 receivers have the option to run the extra channels as a 2nd stereo zone, that may work as well.

If you find yourself needing more power than a multi-zone receiver can handle, maybe a receiver plus an extra stereo amp for the main room, such as this guy: http://www.amazon.com/AudioSource-AMP-100-2-Channel-Bridgeable-Amplifier/dp/B00026BQJ6 or even this one if you want to go overkill: http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PTA1000-1000-Amplifier/dp/B0010K6TXQ . In order to hook up a solution like that, ideally you want a receiver with "pre-outs," as you'll hook the stereo front pre-out to the other amp. This also has the added benefit of being able to better control volume in each location.

Overall, just look for the heaviest duty gear you can find. Obviously you're not worried too much about quality, but you probably want it to sound decent - a lot of the DJ speakers will fulfill that requirement for everyone and will be able to bump it loud forever and not die, which is great. Amps can die if you drive them too loud, PA amps are more indestructible, but receivers will give you more control and will be easier to install and use. I'd basically go with PA speakers, a nice multi-zone receiver, and good mounting kits.

Also - Monoprice for all cables and wires, always: http://www.monoprice.com

Yes I just upgraded, I will give an update when my audio setup comes in. I'm going with Cerwin Vega VE-5M's, Audiosource Amp 100, Nuforce Headphone amp to go with my M50's and Bose AE2's, and I'll stay classy with a vintage Pioneer SG-505 from 1985. Don't worry, it's being upgraded ;)

I would allocate my resources differently. The speaker is going to have the most impact on your sound and should be where you are spending more money to get better results. Look at emotiva's flex amps to save some cash, or even audiosource. You can get a separate phono preamp with the art DJ Pre II if you need it.

So, that leaves you with $300-$800 for speakers. I would consider (in roughly ascending order of price):

Chane A1rx-c

Warfendale Diamond 10.1

Dali Zenzor 1

HTD Level Three Bookshelf speakers

Aperion Intimus 5B

SVS Prime book shelves

PSB Imagine XB

Bowers & Wilkins 685

Aperion Verus Grand Bookshelf

Golden Ear Aon 2

If you are open to adding a sub, you could consider a 2.1 package from Hsu: http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/value2pkg.html
(or you could go with a cheaper option on this list above and add a SVS SB1000 sub to cover the low end)

Towers: Chane A3rx-c, HTD level Three Towers, or Klipsch RF-62 II (or slightly up or down the Reference II line; you could even consider Klipsch's reference II bookshelf speakers) if you don't mind the brightness (I don't care for Klipsch personally, but some folks love em).

Oh, I also have an AudioSource AMP-100 Stereo Power Amplifier that I bought new in January 2012. It's in pristine condition and pushes 60 watts per channel. I had it powering my Sony SS-B3000's. I recently upgraded to a home theater receiver, though, so I no longer need it. I'm hoping to get $65 obo. Photos

Two of these would be the "best".

This guy would be formidable.

This is all you need to make it hot.

This can run the things but be careful not to blow your speakers with clipping.

What you are looking for is an AVR or stereo receiver, not just an amp. An amp is simply a power source to drive speakers. If you want to play two sources at the same time, you'll want to find something that has Zone 2 capability.

Normally for a budget AVR, zone 2 will be an unpowered pre-amp out only that will require an analog input source. Then you need a regular 2 channel (or more) amp to actually drive the speakers. In my setup for music I use a chromecast with an HDMI audio extractor (to convert the signal to analog) and an Audiosource AMP 100.

No you do not need a pro amp. These speakers are extremely efficient. You could get away with a pretty cheap amp if you want. Nicer ones I might suggest are:

Behringer A500(a metric shitload of power)

Dayton APA150

Or the most reasonable: Audiosource Amp 100

Any of these amplifiers will do. And any of them can drive those speakers to impressive and damaging levels of sound.

Please be careful of your hearing and beyond that, be mindful of your neighbors. Then enjoy yourself, those speakers will be very capable of hosting parties.

You don't need to buy another set of speakers. You can plug the turntable into the speakers. The speakers are active meaning that the amplifier is IN the speakers. You don't need a receiver because you already have the amp in the speakers.

What you WILL need is a phono pre amp. Some turntables have this built in. Or you can purchase one separately. There are some decent ones under $50. The Behringer PP400 will work fine with what you have there.

Here's a $20 option, and here's a $40 option that I'm currently using. If you want to spend more you can. Up to infinity.

Knew it looked familiar it's a rebrand of this guy: http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-PP400-Ultra-Compact-Phono-Preamp/dp/B000H2BC4E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1314663706&sr=8-1

Cheap, mine hummed but it put out some decent sound to my 5.1 phono-less receiver

Turntables produce very low output, and need a preamp to amplify the signal to line level as well as to undo the RIAA equalization curve. You're going to need one depending on your turntable, some of them have built in phono preamps. The Schiit Sys is basically an input switcher and isn't what you need. You're going to be looking for a device called a phono stage or a phono preamp. Some examples:

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-PP400-BEHRINGER-MICROPHONO/dp/B000H2BC4E

https://www.amazon.com/ART-DJPRE-II-Preamplifier-Switchable/dp/B000AJR482

https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Ject-Audio-Phono-preamp-output/dp/B007DB5I60

If the piece you found was a preamp, great. It sounds like that's whats missing. If you didn't find a preamp, try one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-PP400-Ultra-Compact-Phono-Preamp/dp/B000H2BC4E

http://www.amazon.com/ART-II-Preamplifier-Output-Switchable/dp/B000AJR482/ref=pd_cp_MI_2/177-5917930-5097810

http://www.amazon.com/ART-USB-Phono-Plus/dp/B000BBGCCI/ref=pd_cp_MI_1

I got this guy : Behringer Phono Preamp and it sounds great! It doesn't have any background noise or hum.

You'd be missing one of the channels, so if you have any stereo sound, it would be be missing either left or right channels.

In my opinion, the best places to spend money are the turntable and the speakers. You can get a basic preamp for $25 (http://smile.amazon.com/Behringer-PP400-BEHRINGER-MICROPHONO/dp/B000H2BC4E?sa-no-redirect=1) and upgrade later.

New to vinyl here I bought a TT and a few records off a pal did some research and found out I bought a Crosley which from the posts on here is the worst thing in the world.

So I'm upgrading but finding the world of vinyl is quite daunting for beginners so I just wanna know if this setup would work:

Pro-ject essential II

Behringer PP400 Preamp
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000H2BC4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qo6LybAZMA5PB

Wharfedale Diamond 9.1 Speakers
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0019410ZK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pp6LybGBB45NB

Tbh the passive/active speaker thing is confusing me a bit. I have read the guides but need some help.

Thanks in advance guys.

Righto. So you will need an amplifier with a phono input and is kind of an odd form factor, or a separate pre amp for the turntable.

I'd see what you can find secondhand - something like a mid 90s - mid 2000s Pioneer, Rotel, Cambridge Audio, Marantz, Denon, Onkyo etc with a built in phono input.

New and cheap from Amazon options:

Cheapest amplifier that I'd buy but needs phono pre amp https://www.amazon.co.uk/Nobsound-Bluetooth-Amplifier-Wireless-Receiver-black/dp/B0725PJQQV/

A step up, but still needs phono pre amp https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gemtune-SA-50-Amplifier-speakers-Adapter-black/dp/B00KBIV1WW/


Phono pre amp for above amps https://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-PP400-Microphono-Compact-assorted/dp/B000H2BC4E

If you attach another sound source to the same mixer inputs do you get sound?

If so your type turntable might need a phono preamp. The signal from a record player needle is very quiet and needs boosting to "line" level. Sometimes you can just hear faint music. Does any of your other equipment have "phono" inputs? like an old hifi amplifier? You could use that or buy a box something like this.

I've used the mic preamps inputs on my soundcard to do Digital Vinyl mixing, but it probably distorts musical audio.

Preamp suggestions please as I'm going insane over getting something crappy... >.>

Here are 2 that I've seen browsing the reddit:

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Microphono-Pp400-Ultra-Compact-Preamp/dp/B000H2BC4E/
https://www.amazon.com/rolls-VP29-Phono-Preamp/dp/B0002BG2R2

My powered speaker system has 3.5mm, so I was thinking of using an RCA to 3.5 (http://bit.ly/2rlrIw5 said I don't lose quality). Opinions on that setup?
Player -> Pre-Amp -> RCAto3.5 -> Powered Speakers

And which of the two preamps or other suggestions? Trying to stick under $75-100 and I'm not audiophile, but I definitely want it to be clear/no hum (as I've heard that in some Amazon reviews of preamps)

Also..Thank you for any help at all!! :)

I use this low-end preamp from Amazon. Works like a charm and haven't had issues with it. I use an old pair of powered Bose speakers with it that I already owned.

After several months and hundreds of dollars I think I'm complete!

Turntable:
Kenwood KD-40R. One day I asked my dad if he had a turntable and this is what started it all. We found it in the attic, original box and in great shape. Replaced the needle and I was good to go. (Minus not having anything else, of course)

Speakers:

• Polk TSi 100 Bookshelf Speakers (Ebay, $100)
  
  Sub:
  
  
• Polk PSW10 (Newegg shell shocker, $80)
  
  Stands:
  
  
• Sanus Systems Wood Speaker Stands
  
  Receiver (hidden behind tv):
  
  
• Onkyo TX-NR509 Network Receiver. This thing is freaking awesome. I got it on sale from Amazon for $150. I control it with my phone, stream music from my phone, run the computer/turntable/game consoles through it.
  
  Cables:
  
  
• Dayton Audio SCP-6 6 Feet Speaker Cable Pair with Bananas.
  
  
• Mediabridge Sub Cable
  
  Preamp:
  
  
• Behringer PP400
  
  

You can't just plug a turntable into the lepai. You need an RIAA pre-amp in between the turntable and the Lepai. Once you have one you need to screw in the ground wire and connect the signal wires from the turntable to the pre-amp, and then connect the pre-amp outs into the lepai inputs.

Here is a link to an affordable pre-amp for your turntable:

• http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-PP400-BEHRINGER-MICROPHONO/dp/B000H2BC4E/
  
  

Here is the reference for the original cartridge. If you were going to replace the turntable with a modern unit, you would need a preamplifier, like this. Your old Tele-funky has a "crystal" cartridge, and modern turntables use a "magnetic" cartridge which has a weaker output. The preamp will go between the new turntable and the Telefunken. You will also need a "DIN to RCA" converter cable, like this one.

I second the U-Turn. All you need is the basic. At least to start. You'll need a phono preamp too and I suggest this. 1/3rd the price of the one uturn makes and it does the job great.

The turntable is a nice choice, but please remember, that it is completly manual (it will run until you set it off by yourself).

The speakers won't work in this setup. You will also need a preamp, e.g. this.

That being said: I have the Behringer for my office and they are really not that good.
I would look for a stereo amplifier with a phono input and two passive speakers (maybe or most likely used).

https://smile.amazon.com/Behringer-PP400-BEHRINGER-MICROPHONO/dp/B000H2BC4E/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1481557302&sr=8-7&keywords=phono+preamp

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NXAEPDC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=AFKH6OU9WWNFS

with this pre-amp: http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-PP400-Ultra-Compact-Phono-Preamp/dp/B000H2BC4E

Oh okay, thank you. Is this what you're talking about?

Hey guys I'm in the market for a receiver & speakers (or preamp/amp)

My budget

For a receiver is >$100

For speakers >$250 (preferably max $200)


If I can I'd rather find a receiver with a phono input in it to save money for speakers.

Would anyone have a knowledge of these receivers I found on Craigslist and if they are worth the money asked?

• Onkyo TX-844
  
• Onkyo SR703
  
  
  If not what is a great sub $50 phono preamp? (sidenote could I use a FiiO headphone amp ( E10K/ E07K/A3) with speakers?)
  
  From what I've read this ishat w was looking at:
  
  
• Bugle2
  
• PYLE-PRO PP444 or Pyle PP999 (whats the major difference?)
  
• BEHRINGER MICROPHONO PP400
  
  As for speakers:
  the following are all from craigslist
  
  
• JBL HLS610
  
  
• Cambridge Soundworks M60
  
  
• Boston Acoustics CR 7
  
• Energy RC mini speakers
  
• Klipsch Synergy B-3 Bookshelf Speakers
  
• B&W V-200
  
• Paradigm APD-150
  
  or would I be safer getting new and highly recommended JBL 305s
  
  Preemptively thanks for your help!
  
  

Yeah, the passive preamp you have won't do the same job as a phono preamp. You can keep the passive preamp if you want it for easier volume control with the powered speakers, but the turntable needs to be directly connected to a phono preamp before the signal goes anywhere else. Do that and you should be able to use these powered speakers just fine. Something like this will do the job.

I don't know everything about preamps, but I've seen these two recommended for a budget:

TCC TC-750 Black $43.50

Behringer PP400 $23.99

I have your receiver and an Orbit Plus. Sounds great! Although I went with a Behringer PP400 as my preamp.

You can get one on Amazon

I'm thinking of picking up a Rega Planar 1 soon, I know you need a phono preamp to use it with powered speakers. I was going to get this one since it is cheap and cheerful. Is this one okay or would getting a more expensive one benefit the sound quality?

If I've understood what you're looking for correctly, you might want to look into getting a phono pre-amp and a T-amp. Topping, Indeed and S.M.S.L are all supposed to be pretty good, among others. They're all pretty similar. Even the really cheap Lepai Tripath sounds alright with an upgraded power supply, though apparently it feels much cheaper than the others. I'd go for one of the former.

This is just from some research I did a while ago though, in the end I never bothered replacing my massive receiver, so I don't have first hand experience.

The one I use with the same turntable and that's quite cheap (so you can upgrade later) is the Behringer PP400 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000H2BC4E

Basically, the sound coming out straight from the turntable is going to be very low so you need this to amplify the sound (and ground the turntable using the weird extra cable ending with a U). Then you can connect the output of the preamp to your speakers directly in order to test it (with a cable like this one http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000I23TTE

Depending on what you want to do afterwards you may want to buy an amp or a receiver or even powered speakers but I believe the sidebar has more info regarding this.

You probably need a preamp. If you aren't hooking the turntable into an input marked "phono" (AUX, line, are not phono) you need a preamp. To my knowledge, modern receivers don't really have phono inputs. BEHRINGER MICROPHONO PP400: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H2BC4E?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

Yup... I bought one of these and it works just great.

You need a pre amp for that turntable to connect to that receiver. http://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B000H2BC4E/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1451275158&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=preamp&dpPl=1&dpID=41Hpr79ilhL&ref=plSrch you need something like this to connect that turntable to your amp.

Edit: added link for component that is needed.

Hi there,

I'd like to upgrade my audio setup, which is OK, but not great. Here's what I currently have going on:

Turntable: Pro-Ject - Debut Carbon DC (Black)

Speakers: Audioengine A2+ Premium Powered Desktop Speakers - Pair (Black)

Preamp: BEHRINGER MICROPHONO PP400

I think the Pro-Ject is OK for me right now, but I'm thinking about upgrading my speakers, and potentially purchasing a receiver (as opposed to my preamp into speakers set up right now). I've started buying some cassettes, so would also love to buy a cassette deck at some point and also be able to plug it into my receiver.

Anyone have any tips? I am admittedly still a bit of a novice, so any advice much appreciated. :)

I also have a couple of these: Audio-Technica AT95E/HSB Headshell/Cartridge Combo Kit (AT95E Cartridge and AT-HS10BK Headshell) lying around the apartment. Is it possible to replace my Pro-Ject needle with one of these bad boys / if so, anyone know of a good explainer for how to do it?

Thanks!

That's a microphone preamp. It amplifies a microphone signal on its way into a computer. You want a stereo amplifier for powering speakers.

A "class t" amp will be enough to power your miccas. I own this one from Dayton: Dayton Audio DTA-1 Class T Digital AC/DC Amplifier 15 WPC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PNOH2I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_owbKybF7PNBG6

It even comes with a 3.5mm to 3.5mm cord to plug from your computer to the amp.

so this looks like it will handle what i need?

http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DTA-1-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B001PNOH2I

i would plug the 3.5mm cable from the PC's headphone jack into the amp, then plug the bare wires into those jacks

and for $40, yes!

This is the closest I can think of to making these headphones "wireless":

You need two of these Bluetooth adapters; one set to broadcast from the TV or computer and the other set to receive plugged into the amp.

And this amp runs on batteries so no need to connect to wall outlet - these headphones still have to be directly wired to the amp.

I'm honestly not sure that an amp that cheap exists that will fully drive those speakers. But here are other options that could work in the short term.

http://www.amazon.com/SA-36A-TPA3118D2DAP-Digital-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00JXCEDGS

http://www.amazon.com/Stellar-Labs-50-10145-Compact-Amplifier/dp/B008BW9K6E

http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DTA-1-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B001PNOH2I

Yes, you just need an amp capable. The cheap 2 channel ones arent going to have a sub output usually. That requires a price jump.

But something like this combo will blow the pants off that logitech set
https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-B652-Bookshelf-Speaker/dp/B002RMPHMU
https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DTA-1-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B001PNOH2I/ref=pd_sim_23_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001PNOH2I&pd_rd_r=HVF5NKWDYNW6JPNRBSEE&pd_rd_w=u1mFH&pd_rd_wg=GZfhZ&psc=1&refRID=HVF5NKWDYNW6JPNRBSEE

this is a cheapy amp with sub out
https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1520822446&sr=8-2&keywords=Lepai+amp#customerReviews

Cheap amp $40
Micca Mb42x you can get the warehouse deal for $80

For $300 you should be looking in budget audiophile and not buildapc. That being said, after searching budget audiophile myself for hours on end this is what I came to as being the best sub $300 setup (that I am currently using):

Pioneer SP-BS22-LR Bookshelf Loudspeakers with a Dayton Audio Digital Amplifier 15 WPC, with the speakers on SANUS 31" Speaker Stands.

This setup sounds amazing and it will be better than any PC speakers you can get. Keep in mind you do have to buy some speaker wire, but the setup is a breeze as the only tool you need is a pair of wire-cutters to get the wire to size.

the review to the Lepai you link doesn't give it enough credit for soundworthiness; cheap class-D amps sound very good as long as they are well-matched to the speakers; that's the type of amp in most of the better all-in-one bluetooth speakers anyway

i use a similar Dayton DTA-1 plus a nice pair of Polk Monitor Series 2 mini-speakers, all three from Goodwill for total cost of $30 and the sound is excellent for the size; adding a bluetooth receiver dongle would fulfill the OP's request

re: BIFL — i can see why many people would prefer an all-in-one unit, but generally those can't be serviced … otoh, individual components of an a la carte system can be replaced, making the overall system "serviceable"; i have even seen people take an old (BIFL-type) suitcase and fit it with a class-D amp and some car speakers

I'd recommend this super simple/cheap amplifier. It even has a 3.5mm cable that may allow you to use a line/headphone out if your TV has one.

Dalton DTA-1: http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DTA-1-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B001PNOH2I

I would argue that it is because the trend is towards things getting smaller and smaller. It would be kind of weird to have a volume knob sticking out of a cell phone or an ipod. So they use little clicker buttons instead.

Also as others have said, that is just more manual parts that are prone to failure.

But they're not completely gone. I recently bought this for my laptop:
http://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-DAC63057-Stereo-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B009WN7QT4?ie=UTF8&ref_=cm_cr-mr-title

and I love it :)

Yup. He's right about Skype. I second Discord, as far as features go. However, the sound quality isn't as good as Teamspeak/Mumble.
Also, with respect to the Syba DAC. Is this not the model you have? I use it at work to power my Fostex T50-RPs, and it's pretty terrific for the price.

You need to decide if you want open or closed back. I prefer open back for gaming. I find them more comfortable because the breath.

I’d look at these:

Philips SHP9500 HiFi Precision Stereo Over-Ear Headphones (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ENMK1DW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CMBADb4MV5PBC

This mic just plugs right in and is also you cable:

V-MODA BoomPro Microphone for Gaming & Communication - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BJ17WKK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oNBADbW90ZHY1

And to round it out this dac/amp:

Syba Sonic USB 24 Bit 96 KHz DAC Digital to Analog Headphone Amplifier 2 Stage EQ Digital / Coaxial Output and RCA Output https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009WN7QT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xOBADbE9EEVQF

This set will blow any astros away and their mixamp.

Just bought the same pair myself and now I'm trying to pick an AMP. How did you end up settling on the SMSL AD18? I'm looking to keep it under $150, were there any others you considered? I'm also eyeballing the Micca OriGain.

For the amp only offering that OP linked, absolutely it's too similar.

If the DAC/AMP measures really well though, it's a good alternative against things like the Topping TP-32EX if you really like using volume pots instead of buttons.


https://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGain-Compact-Integrated-Amplifier/dp/B01LXV4O6B/ref=pd_sbs_23_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=K2Q5Q8HHG98NS1YF449A

Thank you the swift reply!

I just need a quick clarification, do both the Micca OriGain’s have a DAC? Because there are 2 versions: the AD250 and the A250. The AD250 has DAC in the title, but in the comparison table below, it doesn’t mention anything about one not have a DAC.

Thanks

How good is your sound card? If you want to use a DAC external from your PC which typically improves things vs using on-board audio then the Micca Origain AD250 is pretty nice. It has its own DAC and AMP. You connect via USB or optical to PC. I use USB with it and it plays really well with windows 10. No drivers needed to install. You can set it as your default and if you turn it off it swaps back to whatever is next in priority (so your motherboard audio as an example) and when you turn it on it takes over again automagically.

There are a million cheap amps out there, this one will work: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LXV4O6B

This is what I bought for my PC https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXV4O6B/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I haven't used it much yet so I can't tell you about it's durability, but so far I like it. Simple and very compact.

I hate to be the debbie-downer, but a big part of the Bose sound is some very clever wizardry inside the box that no longer works --

They build their tiny speakers optimized for A) power handling, and B) minimal distortion, and usually end up with something that has quite odd frequency response.

Then they measure the transfer function of their little screech-box, and have their engineers build signal-processing to apply the inverse of the transfer function just before the amplifier stage in the central brain.

Along with some clever use of multiband compression using psychoacoustic tricks so that we hear impressive bass even though the actual electrical bass power to the speaker is limited, the end result is a speaker that measures and sounds like it has flat frequency response between say 50Hz and 18kHz, but only if the special brain is in the circuit in front of it.

r/audio has lots of people suggesting various low-cost "class-d" amplifiers, so if you want to try this anyway with something inexpensive you could get a bluetooth class-d or class-d amp with line-in and a cable to connect your phone to it -- just connect the stripped wires of the two leftish speakers to the "left" black and red "speaker" terminals and likewise with those on the right.

My friend has practically that exact setup and is very happy with it. If you just want a plug-and-play option, are putting this in a small room that won't make those little speakers sound tiny, and aren't the type to fall down rabbit holes, then you probably will be, too.

However, if you'd like more of an upgrade path, I'd recommend going with a cheap class d amp and the ever-popular Pioner BS22 speakers. A little bit more expensive than just the Edifiers, but in the same ballpark -- and gives you the option to improve any individual step of your chain down the road. Or you can go with a U-Turn Basic and use the money saved to buy something like an Onkyo TX-8220 which has a built-in phono preamp, tons of analog and digital input options for hooking up a TV, a connection for a subwoofer if you want the extra bass down the road, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/Sony-SSCS5-3-Driver-Bookshelf-Speaker/dp/B00O8YLMVA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=sony+cs5&qid=1563810428&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-2020TI-Instruments-TPA3118-Amplifier/dp/B071FJF4FF/ref=sr_1_3?crid=M2WIJL2PC1PM&keywords=lepai+amplifier&qid=1563810359&s=gateway&sprefix=lepai+amp%2Caps%2C207&sr=8-3#customerReviews

​

The Sony's are an amazing price right now. These two would only cost you $100 and will blow you away. I used to use this combination until I upgraded to a Yamaha AV receiver to replace the Lepai amp and added a center channel as well. It sounded amazing. There might be a better option for a $75 receiver to meet your $150 budget that might provide bluetooth but I'm not as familiar with anything else

amp

cable

speaker wire

you can find the cable and speaker wire cheaper... your local dollar store probably sells both. you do not need banana plugs, they just make speakers easier to connect and disconnect.

i have these little guys under my monitors

micca covo-s


use this little amp and you're at like 65$

https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-2020TI-Instruments-TPA3118-Amplifier/dp/B071FJF4FF/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540214708&sr=8-1&keywords=lepai+lp2020ti

Lepai LP-2020TI Texas Instruments TPA3118 Hi-Fi Stereo Audio Mini Amplifier with Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071FJF4FF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_u6YYBbWDTWW6Z

https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-2020TI-Instruments-TPA3118-Amplifier/dp/B071FJF4FF/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=lepai&qid=1557851029&s=gateway&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-B652-AIR-Bookshelf-Speaker/dp/B00NOA58RS/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=dayton+audio&qid=1557851046&s=gateway&sr=8-5


Get that amp and speakers if he doesnt have those things. All three is like $180 and then ya just need some cables.

Those are some great speakers for that price without a doubt. Just about any speaker amp will be compatible but these are two often recommended starter amps.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071FJF4FF/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501417697&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=lepai+2020a&dpPl=1&dpID=41odxvspp1L&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A2QLGEQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1501417760&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=smsl+sa50&dpPl=1&dpID=41vb56ZQUZL&ref=plSrch


For a desk setup you won't need too heavy of wire so this should be perfectly fine:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006LW0WDQ/ref=psdcmw_3236443011_t2_B01D5H8XOY

What about something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JN7GXN/

or this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MT8BFDC/

The TA 100 is actually s good option mentioned above. They currently have a factory refurbished sale and you can get it for $369

If you want to stay cheaper something like the smsl ad18 could work

SMSL AD18 HIFI Audio Stereo Amplifier with Bluetooth 4.2 Supports Apt-X,USB DSP Full Digital Power Amplifier 2.1 for Speaker,Small 80Wx2 Class D Amplifier with Subwoofer Output https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JN7GXN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Pyp2Ab9F6RTC4

Well you can pick one up fairly cheap, the SMSL Amp tends to gets lots of praise around here.

Some people think the THX logo is a tweeter. (The THX is not a tweeter)

Here's a review http://noaudiophile.com/Logitech_z623/

I don't like the z623 personally, the satellites sound thin and the subwoofer plays too much midrange.

If you think soundbars sound awesome then get a z623. $70 is cheap for audio with bass.

But if you're after better audio then we run into problems.

Some say the Edifier bookshelf speakers are good, The Edifier R1280T No bluetooth is currently on sale. I can't vouch for it for long term listening but I did hear one in person briefly in a store, sounded decent but unsure which model it was.

You can try a Voll 50 Passive speaker and hook it up with a SMSL Audio SA-36A or SMSL AD18 amp. You will need your own speaker wire if you go that route and it obviously all these audio components aren't cheap.

If you want to add a subwoofer in the future then the SMSL AD18 is the way to go, as it has sub-out.

TL;DR
Keep it simple with the Logitech and enjoy the bass or get serious and spend some more money.

Would I risk under driving these with this SMSL AD18 (80w /4ohm)? I often read that is worse that over driving. Would be for a desktop setup.

S.M.S.L AD18 HiFi Audio Stereo Amplifier with Bluetooth 4.2 Supports Apt-X,USB DSP Full Digital Power Amplifier 2.1 for Speaker,Small 80Wx2 Class D Amplifier with Subwoofer Output https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JN7GXN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zz3FDbZDRT4Z6

get this https://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-DAC63057-Stereo-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B009WN7QT4 it has great amp its a bit expensive at 40buck but price/performance is killer,dont buy the hyperx cloud dongle it cant proper power neither alpha or cloud 2 they will sound bloaty bass that bleeds to mids you will be disapointed.

https://www.amazon.com/Syba-Digital-Headphone-Amplifier-Coaxial/dp/B009WN7QT4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539823787&sr=8-1&keywords=syba+sonic&dpID=41b40B9qQCL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

cheap, ugly, it does it's job.

Yes. Basically these gaming headsets that you buy from corsair, razer, Logitech etc with their "7.1 surround sound, rgb lighting, cheap build quality and more aren't really the smartest investment. Getting a decent pair of open back headphones with good imaging and soundstage will not only sound a whole lot better but will have much greater sound pinpointing than" 7.1 surround sound". Basically, they're cheaply built, sound mediocre and have fake "surround sound". You can get a decent pair of openback headphones with good imaging, this sybasonic dac amp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009WN7QT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QJf-Bb3EMR0CQ
And attach a mic like the v moda boom pro and you have a much better setup.

Yes you can run them through mixamp.

Should you is probably a no as according to Zeos in his a40 review he said the only headphone that sounds good with the mix amp is the a40s because it's doing some processing to make them sound good which in turn makes other headphones sound bad.

That question depends on a few things. Can you plug then directly into the back of your motherboard and do they sound good there? Specifically is there a bunch is background static noise? If there is this might be a solution.. If you have one near you, you could always try an audio store and listen to your headphones there.

A DAC stands for digital to analog converter and an amp just amplifies an analog audio signal so it's loud enough. These are separate items but you can find combo ones like the one I listed. A sound card is a DAC/amp that is build into you motherboard or installed in the pci slot of your PC. Most DAC/amp combos plug in via some digital form with the most common for desk stuff being USB.

If you have any more questions let me know.

Amazon

I haven't had time to really jump back and forth between my onboard sound and the syba, but yeah it's better, especially for $40. The switch for bass boost and treble boost is the nicest feature, depending on what kind of game you're playing.

https://www.amazon.com/Syba-SD-DAC63057-Stereo-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B009WN7QT4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536373353&sr=8-1&keywords=syba+sonic works perfectly!

Syba Sonic USB that's the best reviewed budget Amp i could find since last year, i'm highly thinking of going with this one as well, i'm in the same boat as you getting the HD 58X plus Amp aint cheap

I second this, I bought mine back in June, and I use them every day, they are great. I paired them with this - and I love it. https://www.amazon.com/Syba-Digital-Headphone-Amplifier-Coaxial/dp/B009WN7QT4/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=syba+amp&qid=1575141516&sr=8-1

I'm using this

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009WN7QT4

There is this. Which makes your headphones sound better.

Or there is this. Which is just a inline audio controller.

Antlion just announced their ModMic Wireless, it looks nice. But maybe they are too pricey for your budget.

As it was already suggested a Sivga SV007 with a Vmoda Boompro should be good. Or a Custom Studio + Vmoda Boompro.

However with those it might not be practical to always unplug them and vice versa. An external unit with a dedicated microphone port like the Syba Sonic could help you though.

Basically it’s input (phone/computer) -> amp/receiver -> speakers -> ears. Amp/receiver basically just make the signal from whatever powerful enough to drive the speakers. General rule of thumb is to spend the most on speakers (some use the 2/3rds rule, which is good enough for most set ups especially cheap ones) then amp then accessories.

Following this logic, you’d want to spend ~$120-200 on speakers with your budget, good rule of thumb which could net you some killer equipment (see sidebar). As for an amp, old stuff isn’t bad and see below, but if you really want new stuff the R-S201 from https://www.accessories4less.com is a good one if you want to spend $100+200 for your basic set up+change for speaker wire and input cables. Otherwise, if you just need a low-volume set up, probably get something like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A2QLGEQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_m6scAbN06JA08 for an amp and spend the rest on speakers. The Affordable Accuracy’s, Elac B5s and the rare ~$250 deal on KEF Q100s are all stand outs at the top of your budget, and with Black Friday coming up we might see really good deals on all the equipment you’re looking for.

But if you’re in a big college town, def recommend checking out the local craigslist and shops in town. I went to a big college and the local shops had quite a lot of equipment at great deals, probably from a few too many kids away from parents with credit cards they couldn’t pay off looking to unload their stuff to pay it off. I still check that areas craigslist for good stuff, cause my area is a bit dry for that sort of stuff (or at least isn’t full of people who don’t know what they have or are desperate to get rid of it).

All of these are less than the AudioEngine A2+:

JBL LSR305, $240

SMSL SA-50, $68 plus any of the following:

Micca MB42X, $90

Pioneer BS-22-LR, $116

Polk TSi100, $150

What is your budget? There are plenty of small class D amps out there that would do a fine job of driving these speakers.

This SMSL SA-50 for $65 is a good choice

https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter-Silver/dp/B00A2QLGEQ/

BIC America FH-65B for $95 !!

BIC America F12 for $190

SMSL SA-50 for $70

And then you'd need some speaker wire and a 3.5mm to RCA cable (depending on your source)

I recently purchased this amp to use with my MB42X and it seems to be working pretty well.

I recently bought a pair of [Fluance SX6] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IEDL8EM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and a [SMSL SA50] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A2QLGEQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for my office and I love it! They're large though, 9.1 x 13.5 x 8.3 in.

Well, nice is a relative term when spending $300 on speakers and a subwoofer. Its alot to ask for on that budget IMO, but it can certainly be done if it just plugs into a computer. /r/zeos has lots of good info, using his guide, I'd pick the Polk On-Walls for $100, Martin Logan 8" Subwoofer for $130 and an SMSL SA50 for an amp. You'll need banana connectors, speaker wire and a 3.5mm to stereo RCA for connectivity. That should be a good balance of sound. Don't get this setup without the subwoofer though, those speakers are designed presuming you have a sub, and will fit nicely on your desk, and the sub is small enough to fit comfortably underneath.

Ended up going with the Alpha Dog based on /u/ZeosPantera review with the SMSL SD793-II DAC/Amp.

A DAC's purpose is simply to decode the audio stream (usually PCM) and provide an analog output, outside of the computer, free from interference. Nearly every external DAC will do a better job than internal soundcards. They can be connected via USB, Coaxial, or Optical. If you have an optical/coax jack on your motherboard or existing soundcard, you are set. Otherwise, look for a DAC with USB input, and you will not need a soundcard on your PC at all.

When using optical/coax output from the PC, if configured right, the built-in soundcard does nothing to the audio signal. Ideally it's sending the PCM signal straight from an audio file or CD, to the DAC. A DAC in most cases is an external sound card.

A Headphone amp's purpose is to take the line-level input, amplify it and provide a volume control. A DAC/AMP does both.

With an external DAC you can expect less noise/hiss in the background, and if you can hear it, a better SNR (signal to noise ratio) or dynamic range. Most of the sound characteristics you will hear will be coming from your headphones or amplifier.

For PC audio, there are many combinations of devices. Some are combined DAC/AMP. Some combine a loudspeaker amplifier for desktop speakers.. You can get any combination. Some provide line-level outputs for chaining multiple devices together, or pre-amp level outputs allowing for a common volume control.

It sounds like you just need a single device solution for your headphones. Have a look at the SMSL SD793-II. This is a very nice DAC with optical/coax input (no USB), and a good headphone amplifier. It also has an RCA input for use with an analog source to feed your headphones. It also can be used as an RCA output from the DAC, so this DAC can function as a headphone amplifier, and feed a power amplifier for loudspeakers you might get down the road. I have one and really like it.

You can do this with a dac and 2 headphone amps, https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00A2QLPJM for the main https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00NLX9PLI for the secondary. Hook the optical into the SD793, then run RCA from there to the SAPII. Get two nice comfortable pairs of headphones and you can each control the volume independently also.

I personally run this one with my SHP9500.

I'm using this with HD598 and there is huge difference with him and using just onboard audio

Looks like SMSL sd793 to me.

This gets good reviews and will drive your BDs just fine, I use this with my desktop rig.

What I can tell you that you will hear is clarity. You may not notice much else for a while, just listen to lots of your favorite music. You will not be disappointed.

That DAC doesn't come with an adapter for a 3.5mm jack, FYI.

I use a SMSL SD793-II for the same function. It's spdif or coax in only, but RCA out to my speaker amp which is nice. But yeah, I just leave my headphones plugged in and turn the volume down and the turn the speaker amp up and voila... Sound.

http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-SD793-II-PCM1793-DIR9001-amplifier/dp/B00A2QLPJM

BAM. Try it and if you don't...return it. I love mine- no issues.
I use it with my desktop, but it can be used with receivers, etc. Digital audio inputs (toslink and aux). Lots of transparency, flat. Reportedly better than the E10K (which I have no trouble believing).


http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-SD793-II-PCM1793-DIR9001-Amplifier/dp/B00A2QLPJM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449543425&sr=8-1&keywords=sd793

In that case I would recommend the SMSL SD793II. It uses a 1/4 inch jack, but the 598 has an adapter for it.

Here's what I picked up based on the Zeos 2.0 recommendation thread.

• Speakers - Fluance SX6
  
• DAC - SMSL SD793-II
  
• Amp - SMSL SA50 50Wx2
  
  Here's what it looks like setup at my desk - LINK
  
  After installing and setting up Equalizer APO on my system and tuning it by ear through a WIDE assortment of music, this setup sounds absolutely amazing. With the amp and Windows at half volume, it's loud enough to be heard throughout my 2-story house with no audible distortion.
  
  Near-field performance at my desk, where my head it at the peak of basically an equilateral triangle based on where I sit in relation to the speakers, is absolutely astonishing.
  
  I use this setup for games, music, and audio editing for video work I do. It's awesome all-around.
  
  Throw a pair of stands in there like these and it's right at your $300 budget.

This is closer to your price range. I have one of these and and it works great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A2QLPJM

edit: I should have asked if you want to use it with with your PC, as this one has no USB connection. Might not be what you're looking for. I used it for connecting an optical from my TV or game console so I could have decent audio though my headphones.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A2QLPJM

You can get a decent Dac/Amp for cheap. I use this this with my DT 770 Pro (80 ohm) and it works beautifully.

A little better ;-)

The SMSL SA-60 is fine for your budget but note that you can't plug headphones into it. You might want to look at something like the SMSL SD793-ii, which is a combined DAC/headphone amp, but tbh I don't know much about headphones so I don't know how good the headphone amp in it is. Also, the SA-60 plus the SD793-ii would be nearly the same price as the Onkyo TX-8020, which is a better speaker amp than the SA-60, though I'm not sure how the headphone amp in the Onkyo compares to the SD793-ii, and the SD793-ii has a DAC which the Onkyo doesn't, so... Anyway, lots for you to think about.

The only speakers you linked that I've heard are the Pioneers, and they are just ok (good for the price I guess) but tbh I think you should be looking at the next level up. Look into the Elac Debut range, Wharfdale Diamond range, Klipsch RM-15, Cambridge Audio SX, Q Acoustics 3020, etc. You might also want to consider active speakers like the JBL LSR305, though you'd need a separate headphone amp to run your headphones.

Okay, just making sure there wasn't some technical reason that you needed a discrete card.

If you're just used to them from building PC's years ago, it's different now. The only discrete sound cards I know of are the SoundBlaster AE-7 / AE-9 and the Nu Audio from EVGA. Supposedly they're both really good, but if you have a GPU they'll probably get in the way of airflow. (Unless it's water cooled)

If you just want a better option than your on-board sound, look into some DAC/Amp combos as well.

Mayflower Arc

Topping MX3

SoundblasterX G6

and a cheap but very effective option. I used this one to drive my 6xx's for a while. Was surprised how good it was compared to the price. Would reccommend.

Options for the 650 are fairly wide open as it is driven pretty easily.

From a $45 dac amp that is the sleeper king of budget setups: https://drop.com/buy/fx-audio-dac-x6#overview

to a Schitt Stack (modi/magni) or JDS Labs (Ol Dac/Atom Amp) for around $200

Topping Mx3 for about $130 for a great combined unit that allows for future expansion to speakers too.

and very much beyond in prices well above several thousands of dollars

If none of those tickel your fancy you'll probably get a more varied response from r/HeadphoneAdvice

But before you do; make sure you know a few things first:

What type of connections you want (USB, RCA, Optical), where you are located, where you can buy from, and your budget.

I answered with amps/dacs that won't break the bank, preform pretty good, and fit with the mid-fi level of your headphones.

Fluance Ai60

https://www.amazon.com/Fluance-Performance-Bookshelf-Amplifier-Turntable/dp/B07MH2X3CP/ref=pd_ybh_a_102?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=HQMG88BJ64NR1YCZG807&th=1

OR

Topping MX3 + Pioneer SP-BS22

https://www.amazon.com/Topping-MX3-Bluetooth-Headphome-Amplifier/dp/B075SYC4Z5/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=mx3&qid=1556507088&s=aht&sr=1-3-catcorr

https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SP-BS22-LR-Designed-Bookshelf-Loudspeakers/dp/B008NCD2LG/ref=sr_1_1?fst=as%3Aoff&qid=1556507567&refinements=p_n_feature_nine_browse-bin%3A18238268011%2Cp_36%3A1253506011&rnid=386442011&s=electronics&sr=1-1

I've had the pretty common beginner setup for about 6 months now:

TT: AT-LP120 (built in preamp)

Amp: Lepai 2020A+

Speakers: Dayton B652's

I had noticed that my current setup lacks quite a bit of bass/low-range sound, resulting in a somewhat flat sound. I was considering upgrading the following:

Speakers: Pioneer SP-BS22-LR ($129.99 on Amazon)

Amp: SMSL SA50 ($68.90 on Amazon)

Will I get a noticeable difference out of this upgrade? Or would my money be put to better use elsewhere?

I'd say save some money: http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-TDA7492-Integrated-Tripath-Amplifier/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414978743&sr=8-2&keywords=SMSL+t+amp

Well there's a few options for you here. There's these, which I have a highly recommend. Fluance SX6. Or a cheaper yet still apparently great set of Micca speakers that are quite a bit smaller. These both require something like this to power it, along with some speaker wire and maybe banana plugs. You could also get some powered Audioengine A2
's. Those shouldn't require an amp. Overall I would highly recommend taking the plunge into quality sound equipment. I myself would buy the fluance one's again but it's up to you. The cost is most definitely worth it when it comes to these speakers.

What about this:

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_107R150/Polk-Audio-R150.html?tp=186

paired with something like this.

http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-TDA7492-Integrated-Tripath-Amplifier/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1417036388&sr=1-2&keywords=t+class+amp

That way in the future, you're not stuck with some god awful looking shelf system.

Just plug in your laptop or Ipod.

Your gonna need an amplifier to drive these, amplifiers are usually designed to have the speakers connected via bare wire so you should probably just hack the connectors off. The Amp will have RCA and 3.5 mm connectors that you can plug into whatever source you want. Something like this is what you want: SMSL SA50 50Wx2 TDA7492 Class D Amplifier + Power Adapter (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_g9jJBb18QVYRA

That one looks like it has banana Jack's for the speakers which are also somewhat standard and you can get for a few bucks.

I would not get powered speakers. It limits your selection and complicates upgrading. I would get a little smsl amp like this
And some daton [speakers](
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-b652-air-6-1-2-2-way-bookshelf-speaker-with-amt-tweeter-pair--300-651)

If you just want to buy something, the SMSL SA50 is a great choice.

https://smile.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501903960&sr=8-3&keywords=smsl

It's well built, has plenty of power unless you're speakers have low sensitivity or it's a big space, and the audio quality is unsurprisingly terrific. Amps are pretty much a 'solved problem', and while you can deliberately color your sound with tubes and the like, simple and accurate amplification is pretty easy to achieve.

If you're set on Bluetooth and want a simple all-in-one setup get these.

However, I have to recommend the Chromecast Audio - so much more reliable than Bluetooth, better sound quality, and easier to connect to. I'd pair it with this amp and these speakers. If you're feeling adventurous go this route but you'll be happy with either coming from Bose.

You can sell the unused monitor on /r/hardwareswap to recuperate some cash. Even if you don't want to get rid of it, I'd still move it so there's space for the speakers and they aren't being blocked.

I just got a set of Kef LS50s for a desktop setup. I got a good deal so I picked them up without thinking how I'll be powering them. Then without much thinking I thought the PS Audio Sprout looked good so I ordered it off Amazon, as I'm looking for a clean/simple setup. It turns out it's a bit of a no-no and isn't a great product the more I look into it.
So what's the recommendation around the $500 mark for a desktop unit that I can use to power the speakers to play music off my laptop while I'm working? I'm willing to buy used.
Any help or advice is appreciated.
Thanks!

EDIT: I also have a Schiit Magni/Modi 2 Uber. Could I just use the preamp and hook it up to something like this SMSL SA50 or does the LS50 deserve a better setup?

It has a little amp built in, you can connect to computer speakers if you wanted. If you have no idea what you're doing just buy new:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F0H8TOC?psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Black/dp/B00E7H8GG2/ref=pd_sim_23_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=41-MULbHU8L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1PFNK0K8D8E94BQV287R

So I bought myself a teac tn-300 during a sale recently and I've been truly loving it along with the vinyl I have been collecting since. However it naturally makes me want to keep improving my system and I'm looking for a good starting point.

I have been using A bose dock by directly plugging into the rear input of the device. Works fine for the time being but it would definitely be nice to start thinking of getting some actual speakers and an amp.

Could anyone recommend a good starting point to look? How much money am I really looking at spending? I'd love to hear the recommendations for my situation.

Specs: The speakers would be mainly used to sound a 20x15 room.

considering:
http: //www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Black/dp/B00E7H8GG2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453818118&sr=8-1&keywords=micca+mb42x

http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453820918&sr=8-1&keywords=smsl+sa50

http://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Black/dp/B00E7H8GG2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453818118&sr=8-1&keywords=micca+mb42x

http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453820918&sr=8-1&keywords=smsl+sa50

thats all you need, it is one of the "proposed budget systems" regularly suggested on r/audiophile and for good reason, those micca speakers have good sound for not much money. and that amp powers them just fine

If you want more powerful sound you would have to spend more money but that setup will blow your bluetooth speaker out of the water

Those are regular passive speakers. They do not contain an amplifier (hence no power cord or batteries), so you will need an amplifier to put between them and your laptop. The amplifier makes the signal strong enough to physically moves the speakers. (Your laptop has a weak amplifier in it, but only strong enough to power headphones.)

One popular cheap amplifier is the SMSL SA50. I've never used it, but it's less than $70 and should be pretty adequate for your purposes. A nicer way is to buy a stereo receiver, which will have a remote, better circuitry, the ability to switch between several sources, and more, but those start at around $150-200 minimum. (Although if you are knowledgeable and careful, you can find used receivers on craigslist for far less.)

Anyway, most amplifiers have RCA inputs, so you will need a 3.5mm (same connector as headphones) to stereo RCA cable for connecting your laptop to the amplifier. Then you need speaker wire for connecting the amplifier to the speakers.

Get yourself a Class D amp. You can get a decent one for about $60 - $70. The SMSL SA50 is a good option.

I'm also considering getting something like this amp and these speakers as well to go the passive route. From what I understand, this amp can power the speakers, correct? Also, I'm going to need RCA from turntable to pre amp, and RCA from pre amp to amp. Then from amp go to one speaker with speaker wire,then one speaker to the other with speaker wire, so in total 8 banana plugs right?

You're looking at a simple 2.0 set up for that budget.

I would go with the following:

Micca MB42X Bookshelf Speakers With 4-Inch Carbon Fiber Woofer and Silk Dome Tweeter (Black, Pair):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E7H8GG2

SMSL SA50 50Wx2 TDA7492 Class D Amplifier + Power Adapter (Black):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F0H8TOC/

I would then add a subwoofer if you feel you need it. I spent many a year upgrading from builds like this to what I have today. Enjoy what you have and upgrade at your own pace.

Let me know if you have questions.

If you are only going to have 4 speakers then get two analog amps with zwave outlets. You could also get ANY stereo receiver with digital A/B speaker select and use a harmony hub. This is what I do in my house (with multiple receivers though and I route IR around so I can turn on a specific room from Alexa).

The $150 price tag includes the 79 dollar speakers and the smsl sa50 amplifier, which are the only two things you need. Simply hook the amp up to the computer and then your speakers and you're good to go.

Oh, you may need some cheap speaker wire, interconnects but that shouldn't be more than 10-20 dollars.

http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-TDA7492-Integrated-Tripath-Amplifier/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426021140&sr=8-1&keywords=smsl+amp

what is your budget? I am a big proponent of passive speakers with a separate amp/dac. They sound the best to me. They do tend to take a lot of space though, so it may be tough with a smaller desk. If you want powered speakers though, the edifiers have been the best in my experience.

My current setup is:

AMP: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0H8TOC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(note: this amp doesnt support subwoofers, so look elsewhere if you want a 2.1 system. In my experience I haven't felt the need for one, but YMMV)

DAC: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SY9RBOM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Speakers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000V2UBS8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A cheaper but still solid speaker: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008NCD2LG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 AND https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00E7H8GG2/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526322009&sr=1-2&keywords=micca

You got passive speakers from Best Buy, they're still compatible with your record player, you just need a receiver or amp. This little amp will work with them. If you'd rather have active, Edifiers are good, but a receiver/amp will let you upgrade to nicer or cool vintage speakers in the future. What was wrong with the Mackies? They're usually pretty solid too.

That receiver doesn’t have a DAC it seems. If you don’t need AM/FM and want connectivity options, something like the Topping MX3 would work well, especially on a desk.

Topping MX3 Built-in Bluetooth Receiver DAC Headphome Amp Digital Amplifier (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075SYC4Z5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kzxvDb7D3TBA9

Otherwise, I’d go with a cheap Denon or Yamaha over the Sony.

https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavrs540bt/denon-avr-s540bt-5.2-ch-x-70-watts-bluetooth-a/v-receiver/1.html

You should give us a hint of your budget.

If you get some Micca MB42x and pair it with a cheap amp such as this SMSL 36 for $50 you'll be in a good spot for under $150.

If you want a subwoofer, the infinity reference r10 is on sale currently for $120 (down from $400 MSRP). You just need to combine it with a different amp that can feed a signal to it such as the Topping MX3

Buy a dac/amp combo that has a optical audio entry and use it with your ps4, then connect the headphones to it you'll get easily like x4 the volume.

I bought this one like 3 months ago after I was disappointed with the volume too and it's 100% worth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072JJT7SF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_z-aQBbKN7BX6X

https://www.amazon.com/FX-Audio-Optical-Coaxial-Amplifier/dp/B072JJT7SF/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1536801280&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=dac-x6&psc=1

You didn't mention a budget so I'd recommend the following kit:

Speakers: Micca MB42x for 90$

DAC: FX-Audio DAC X6 for 65$ - bonus: you're also getting a decent headphone amp

Stereo amp: SMSL SA-50 for 65$

Total is about double what the Bose kit goes for but it should sound significantly better, is more future-proof (you can replace individual components if you want to upgrade) and it gives you an actual headphone amp. It also offloads sound processing from your motherboard to the DAC, which can result in better sound quality (depending on your motherboard). The DAC X6 and SMSL SA-50 are the same size and stack very nicely so it doesn't take anywhere as much space on your desk as a receiver.

the fx-audio dac x6, could be a handy add on to what you already have.. around 60$, is an external dac and headphone amp. it has rca outputs you could put into your sa-50.. It also has optical and coax input as well as the usb with a handy switch on the front, add it to your existing stack, us the usb port for your pc, optical/coax for other devices, does your tv have optical output?

https://www.amazon.com/FX-Audio-Optical-Coaxial-Amplifier/dp/B072JJT7SF

edit, I'm kind of on the flip side of you, I Have the headphone setup but soon want to add speakers, to do that I am most likely going to buy the sa-50. I am using the fx-audio dac x6 now and liking it.

I've been using this DAC, FX Audio DAC-X6 24BIT/192 Optical/Coaxial/USB Digital Audio Amplifier DAC Decoder Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072JJT7SF , for several months now and it's pretty good. Have it paired with the Sennheiser HD 598 headphones. Great sound.

I'm not one that can hear the difference between $100 and $500 headphones, too much metal in the early 90's, but it sounds quality to me.

I thought the same thing. This is the review that helped me to make my final choice. That guy is very, very active in the headphone/audiophile community.

I used just the SHP9500 by themselves for months then grabbed the FX Audio DAC-X6 the Philips alone are very, very good. Adding the DAC/Amp combo aided them but is in no way necessary.

As someone who was prepared to drop up to $200 on a new pair, I figured fuck it if nothing else I'm only out $50. I personally recommend these to anyone looking to get into the headphone world and not dump $200 right off the bat.