Best audio & video accessories according to redditors

We found 49,179 Reddit comments discussing the best audio & video accessories. We ranked the 11,198 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Media storage & organization products
Audio & video connectors & adapters
TV accessories & parts
Headphone accessories
Electrical distribution products
Electrical distribution modulators
Speaker parts & components
Audio & video crossover parts
Home audio crossovers
Speaker repair products

Top Reddit comments about Audio & Video Accessories:

u/RabbleRouser27 · 164 pointsr/Cooking

Best cookbook you can get with everything youre looking for. The guy was a chemist I believe and decided to combine it with his love of cooking. It tells you why cooking an egg a certain way will give a certain result. What happens the the proteins inside the egg, what cookware to use, how to improve already popular dishes. Great shit in store for you my friend.

u/Evictus · 156 pointsr/askscience

Also, The Food Lab is a good book to read as well, has similar information on cooking I assume as the book you've suggested. I actually have it next to my bed right now and it's a pretty good cookbook / reference.

u/ender4171 · 99 pointsr/Cooking

For learning methods and the science behind cooking I would say The Food Lab by J Kenji Lopez-Alt. It is a textbook of cooking methods, analysis, and expliantion of the science of how cooking works and how to get the best (or just different) results from recipes. It also contains a ton of excellent recipes.

For just recipes, I would say The New York Times Cookbook by Craig Claiborne. It has hundreds of incredible recipes from a variety of cultures. Some of them are quite complex, but most are very approachable for cooks of all levels. It is not an advanced cookbook for the most part, but has a lot of solid classic recipes. One does need a basic grasp of cooking terms and techniques to get the best out of it.

u/WadeMoreau · 68 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

People already linked the other two $150 stereo receivers from Best Buy but there's also this one that you should be able to price match to Amazon for $130 (or just buy it from Amazon).

If you don't want a gigantic amplifier I also recommend the Topping MX3 for $94 at Amazon.

You're also going to need some speaker wire which is probably overpriced at Best Buy and some type of cable to get sound from your computer to an AV receiver if you don't want to use bluetooth.

u/Iphotoshopincats · 65 pointsr/gifs
u/Spynde · 62 pointsr/buildapc

I would recommend this: DAC/AMP in one unit for under $100.

Flio E10K

u/the_blue_wizard · 50 pointsr/audiophile

A decent system if it all works. The turntable is just OK, but perhaps that's all you need.

The Key to a turntable is the Tone Arm and Cartridge (stylus/needle). Your turntable appears to be a P-Mount, meaning the entire Cartridge assembly just plugs into the tone arm. There are many replacement P-Mount cartridge available. The tone arm look like a generic DJ tone arm similar to that found on Stanton, Technics, Audio Tecnica, and Reloop. That's not the absolute best, but still decent; no problems.

This appears to be a more consumer version of Technics DJ turntables. And assuming it is in good condition, and well oiled, it is probably very good considering the price you paid.

Generally Technics are considered good equipment, and they are now re-entering the audio market again with a new line of equipment.

You can give us the model number of the amp and we will look up specs on it, or you can simply use Google to look up information on the amp. You should be able to determine the power, and the range of years in which it was made. If the amp is at least ~50w/ch, then it is most certainly worth having and using assuming it is in good working condition.

It is difficult to see the Amp Model number but the closest I can determine is SU-V78 - 100w/ch to 8 ohms.

Oddly the Technics SU-V76 is also 100w/ch -

The AM/FM Tuner should still work, and will pick up radio stations just fine even with the most basic antenna.

The Cassette Player is an Antique unless by chance you still have a stack of Cassettes available to play.

The CD Player, assuming it still works should be fine as the standard for CD has been locked into place since its inception.

The speakers are fine; good sided. The key with older speakers is the Surrounds, the foam or rubber ring that attaches the actual cone to the frame. If foam these can deteriorate, and sometimes disintegrated over time. Gently touch or rub your finger on the surround and see if it is gritty or crumbling. If so the surrounds can be replaced for a fairly modest fee.

Given that you got this for FREE, there is one other aspect you could consider. It is possible to use a Stereo system to enhance the movie watching experience very considerably. However, modern TV do not have analog audio outputs, most have Digital Optical Audio out, though a few have Coaxial.

Given that you got a pretty nice system for free, you could spend some money, assuming you are into movie watching, and get a DAC (digital to analog converter) to allow you to plug the TV into the Stereo. These can range from about $25 for just the basic DAC, up to about $500 for a more complex multi-input DAC.

You can see a range of possibilities here -

The output of the TV is limited to a 48k Sample Rate about CD quality, so a very basic $25 DAC is probably adequate if you are not too serious.

Some thing like this will give you one channel that is either Optical or Coaxial, another Coaxial only Channel, and USB-PC for connecting directly to a computer.

The speakers, though I can really determine, appear to have at least 10" woofer, and they should sound pretty good. I think this will make a fine movie and music system.

u/WalkingTurtleMan · 49 pointsr/IAmA

I'm not Mr. AB, but my go-to cookbook is The Food Lab by J. Kenji López-Alt. It's my favorite for a couple of reasons:

  1. It's freaking huge. Seriously, it will take up a lot of room on your self.
  2. It covers a huge array of topics. Whole chapters devoted to breakfast, roasts, salads, veggies, etc.
  3. It tackles the science behind the recipe. Why does it taste so good? Why do you need so much salt? It turns out that for thousands of years humans just did trial and error and found that x amount of y made it tasty. Kenji figures out what happens on a molecular level and perfects the recipes based on that. He also tells you how YOU can recombine these base on what you have lying around.
  4. There's a lot of relatively quick and easy meals, as well as a few big meals like Thankgivings as well.

    On top of that, the author is now experimenting with a Youtube channel!

    Hopefully this will make dinner a bit easier for you.
u/uid_0 · 48 pointsr/AskCulinary

I would recommend The Food Lab by J. Kenji Lopez-Alt. It covers a lot of techniques and dishes-out the science behind them.

u/MrDanbourineMan · 44 pointsr/IWantToLearn

If you’re willing to spend a little money, buy The Food Lab by J. Kenji Lopez Alt. It is amazing. It’s a beautiful book with detailed documentation of experimentation with various methods / times / ingredients.

Edit: misspelled dude’s name

u/Hott_Soupp · 44 pointsr/starterpacks

ha. You buy gold plated?!
The real quality comes from [diamond]( Diamond 16m (52.49 feet) Braided HDMI Cable

u/NoraTC · 42 pointsr/AskCulinary

Here is a nice backgrounder on the sciency side of the chemical effects - and it should be a basic part of your understanding of salt effects. The Food Lab's chapter on the science of ground meat opened a whole new avenue of cooking fun for me, just by understanding why when you add how much salt to ground meat yields totally different products. You can generally access the basic ideas by googling "food lab", including the ground meat product you want to make as a google term, if you do not have access to the book. I commend buying it, because it is the kind of reference work that cries out for annotating and browsing.

...and now for a much less technical reasons: (1) salt lightly early on, because you may want to concentrate stuff down and (2) if there is some salt there, you can easily say, "that is under salted but what else does it need?" - with no salt on board the lack of salt is all you will notice.

Balance out final heat, acid, umami, finishing herb stuff, all of which can affect final salt preference, then correct the salt if needed.

u/flickerkuu · 39 pointsr/technology

Yup, I like when my HDCP DRM circuit on the bigscreen I have broke, and I couldn't watch LEGAL purchased HDMI content (like Netflix off my Roku).

Instead, only torrents and "non legit" content would play through the laptop over hdmi at 720 and 1080p.

Something I paid for broke, and made me unable to watch high rez content that I PAID for.

If it breaks, it should stop defeating piracy, and not stop defeating legal use. The people who make this crap are idiots.

I finally bought a $15 Splitter that had the side effect of stripping their shitty copy protection out, and now I can watch ALL my media- especially the LEGALLY PAID FOR CONTENT.

Thanks for nothing DRM.

u/DustForVomit · 38 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Hey n00b...hit me up when you're ready to step up your game. You haven't lived until you step up to a $13,500 AudioQuest Diamond braided HDMI cable, wrapped around some $12,500 Naturelle Plus Maxi Pads with Wings. Be sure to get the ones with wings, as they add flavor. Us "pros" call them "flavor wings".

You're not really a serious vaper until you've stepped up your vape game like the rest of us adults.

u/throwbackfinder · 38 pointsr/britishproblems

Ok, maybe not amazons basics but you can acquire a cable which...somehow someone will buy.

Behold, beyond your wildest dreams does the ultimate ripoff exist



Could it possibly get any worse? YES

u/Cyno01 · 37 pointsr/oddlysatisfying

People really need to spend a little bit more money on sound in their setups. A real 5.1 surround setup can be had for <$300 and even the cheapest option will blow any soundbar out of the water.

Go with a slightly smaller TV even if it means getting a receiver and some speakers, way more immersion for your dollar than anything else. And modern stuff with CEC keeps controlling everything super simple, i dont even need my Harmony remote anymore.

In this case a $50 2.1 set of computer speakers is an improvement over the tvs built in, but not by much, and not helped any having them all on the same little shelf like that either.


$303 with enough wire to go the long way around and speaker stands, so no drilling even. Even if you dont have the biggest TV itll make everybody want to have movie night at your place.

u/milehighjessa · 36 pointsr/howto

Oh!!! I just read about this in The Food Lab!

Directly from the book: “Eggshells are porous: they lose about 4 microliters of water a day to evaporation while simultaneously taking air into the space between the sheep and the inner membrane near the fat end. In very fresh eggs, the air space is tiny and the egg will sink to the bottom of the bowl and lie on its side. As eggs get older, the air space will grow, so old eggs will sink and then stand on their points as the air in the larger end tries to rise. If you’ve got an egg that floats, it’s probably past it’s prime and should be discarded.”

The book really is an incredible read, whether you cook a lot or not. I would absolutely recommend it.

Edit: between the SHELL not sheep

u/Due_rr · 33 pointsr/AskCulinary

The food lab. You can also buy Modenist Cuisine at Home.

u/Incursus · 33 pointsr/buildapcsales

DO NOT USE THESE, they make it VERY easy to break your 3.5mm jack.

Instead, use something like this that separates the 1/4" section from the smaller jack:

Alternatively, you can get this aftermarket cable:

u/psxsquall · 32 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I'm glad I had an extra $13,500 laying around for the 16m one. And silly me had the side with the down arrow connected to my monitor. Everything started working once I switched both ends.

u/crustillion · 31 pointsr/buildapcsales
u/dhamilt9 · 31 pointsr/cookingforbeginners

Surprised no one has mentioned The Food Lab given how popular it is on Reddit. Not only is every recipe in it a certified banger, it also does a great job walking you through the scientific reasons behind each recipe, so in addition to the recipes in the book you gain a ton of skills and techniques applicable when coming up with your own recipes.

u/FriendVriendin · 31 pointsr/GifRecipes

What book?

edit: The Food Lab. Thanks u/Imnotveryfunatpartys

u/Wail_Bait · 25 pointsr/techsupportgore

I haven't seen anyone do this in years. It was somewhat common about 10 years ago when good headphones were becoming popular, but external DACs and headphone amplifiers didn't really exist. I mean, yeah, headphone amps have been around since at least the 60's, but they were always expensive audiophile or recording studio products. So for PC audio you either modified your sound card or built a CMoy amp, because the cheapest actual headphone amp was $1000.

Also, a good DAC is about $20, not $120. A good headphone amp is around $100 though so it would be $120 for both, but most headphones do not need an amp.

u/super_cheeky · 24 pointsr/femalefashionadvice

For anyone shopping for a good home chef, I would recommend The Food Lab. It's got a cult-like following for a reason; there's even a subreddit—r/seriouseats

u/AlexTehBrown · 24 pointsr/Cooking

The Food Lab!!!

Techniques are explained really well. It doesn't just tell you what to do, it tells you why to do it. There are good recipes, but the best part is that you learn the howsand whys, which make the skills transferable and it will bring your cooking to a new level. It is designed for home cooks, and Kenji is the best, you can't go wrong.

u/myshoesarebrown · 23 pointsr/MealPrepSunday

Thanks for all the great comments and compliments! Woke up to a full inbox. To answer a few of the questions:

  1. Here is the link for the containers on amazon:
  2. Recipes:
    1. Pasta Salad with dijon vinagrette, olives, capers, shredded mozzerella and sundried tomatoes
    2. Black eyed pea salad with red onion, celery and ceasar dressing.
    3. The egg salad, roasted broccoli with bread crumbs, and marinated kale salad are all from The Food Lab book.
  3. I'm doing this mostly for health reasons. Not to lose weight, but just to eat better. I work in a hospital and the cafeteria food is pretty unhealthy (oh the irony). I have very little self control when I go there, and I wind up getting a slice of pizza or chicken tenders or something equally unhealthy.
u/Rayansaki · 22 pointsr/Games

There is such a thing as "zero" latency, but only with AudioQuest Diamond HDMI Cable, found here. (Technically, it has negative latency since it uses time warping technology).

It is a bit pricier than your average cable, but it comes with free shipping.

u/Aari_G · 21 pointsr/breakingmom

I got part one (part one!) of my gift this week! Not near my phone to take a picture, but it's this bad boy! I'm fucking stoked, I love Serious Eats and it's gonna be fucking awesome to have an actual physical cookbook I can leaf through instead of bullshit allrecipes and stupid mommy blogs where you have to read through twenty pages of stupid sanctimommy bullshit before you even get to the recipe!

And holy shit, it's HUGE! It talks about everything! There's chapters on pasta, steak, chicken, all the fun stuff! And there's conversion charts right inside the cover so I don't need to ask google how much a cup of flour weighs (for the thirtieth fucking time!)

I love it! <3

u/X28 · 19 pointsr/AskCulinary
u/Bob_Fillington · 17 pointsr/gifs

this one cost 13,000

u/ryesmile · 17 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Make sure it is one of the very high quality ones.
Like this

u/holtenberg · 16 pointsr/pcmasterrace

But please, continue with this type of reviews.

u/jdvbelle · 16 pointsr/oculus

> Price "cheaper than a cable"

That's not too dificult

u/jasonnug · 16 pointsr/buildapcsales

Yes, the cord that comes with it is crap imo. I got this cord recently for mine and it's fantastic.

u/GbMaxSE · 16 pointsr/hometheater
u/KoreaKoreaKoreaKorea · 16 pointsr/buildapc

$30 DAC - Link - Please know these aren't game changers, it's only offering better quality sound than your motherboard. If your headphones or speakers aren't that great, it's not doing to do much. Weakest link type of thing. If your headphones suck, these wont help. But if you have a decent set of phones, many people have sworn by these.

$75 DAC - Link - More expensive, better sound output. Again, should be paired with even higher quality sound gear. $100+ speakers/headphones.

$115 DAC - My Dac - Link - I needed a dac with a little power. I use speakers with my setup instead of headphones. This one is 2x25. It's honestly the most anyone should need for a 2.0 system.

$80 Speakers - Link - These are mine. I love them. Best combined $200 I've spent. Instead of a CPU that will need to be replaced in two years, these will out last many builds if I take care of them. The reviews are through the roof compared to the price. And I'd have to agree.

There are a million reviews about the topping DAC + Micca speakers. Things feel more immersive. I think that's the simplest way to put it.

u/Danielsydeon · 15 pointsr/ShittyTechDeals

Hard. Like the diamonds used in the best HDMI cable ever! Only $13499.75! Shipping only $3.99! Get yours now at

u/mr_droopy_butthole · 14 pointsr/IdiotsFightingThings

That's what I say. These non-grilling fuckboys don't know. You can buy a grill like that for $600-700 and you can also buy one that looks like this for $2000.

You can probably even get the exact same one from 2 different retailers.

this is a $14,000 hdmi cable. There's a sucker born every minute

u/theknyte · 13 pointsr/techsupportgore

$1000? That's entry level. Try this guy.

u/Malatros · 13 pointsr/IWantToLearn

I don't know a lot about baking, but one of my friends does and she recommended the below book.

The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

Also, there is a great show called Good Eats I recommend for this. :)

u/K_U · 13 pointsr/humblebundles

Nothing particularly good in this bundle.

If you want take up cooking and treat yourself, I would give my highest personal recommendation to The Food Lab and Bravetart. They are great because they go over technique and fundamentals and provide a good base that you can build from once you get more comfortable in the kitchen. Once you hit that point The Flavor Bible is also a great resource for experimentation.

u/QuipA · 13 pointsr/headphones

You can connect the Magni with a 3.5mm>RCA cable to the line out (green port) of the motherboard. Mobo audio should be at 100% and only the knob on the amp controls the volume. If that gives you clean sound without any distortion or constant electrical noise, you don't need to get a DAC.

u/warheat1990 · 13 pointsr/hardware

Don't cheap out on HDMI cables, get those diamond grade cable from amazon.

u/SamaMaBich · 12 pointsr/mildlyinteresting

> just because you're paying more for it doesn't mean it's better

Are you saying this cable isn't worth it?

u/Daemon_Ursus · 12 pointsr/buildapcsales

I also really like these, great headphones at a great price. However the stock cords suck pretty hard unless you like grippy rubber cables. I picked up these as a replacement, and fully recommend them for anyone else who doesn't like the stock cable:

u/steadylit · 12 pointsr/EDM

Everyone here is making this so unnecessarily complicated. I just picked up DJing last year myself and it's not hard to start at all. I did quite a bit of research on what DJ controller would be the best for someone who is just starting, but also wants to have something more than a simple mixer.

  1. Build a music library and download Serato

  2. Import your music library and organize it to your liking.

  3. I bought a Pioneer DDJ SB2 and it's awesome. You can do really basic stuff but at the same time you have the ability to do some higher level mixing as well.

  4. While you wait for your controller to arrive, watch this It's a full on tutorial on how to use your controller along with Serato.

    Good luck and have fun! It's a blast to get into

    I FORGOT you obviously need a laptop and some speakers. Any speakers will do, just make sure it's RCA output. Here is a cheap converter if you currently have a 3.5mm output.
u/LeFrancoisDillinger · 12 pointsr/cordcutters

This is all you need for your UHF/VHF needs. It picks up all local affiliates: NBC, CBS, ABC, FOX, and CW.
RCA also has a Signal Finder app that will show you where to point it for maximum reception.

I cancelled DirectTV Now when Sling picked up Discovery. Now Sling lost Fox Sports SW. I’m probably going to head back to cable.

Also, you are not dumb. Good luck!

u/sequence_9 · 12 pointsr/PS4

I'd highly recommend this dac if you care about sound quailty. It is doing an amazing job for the money.

edit: sorry this dac will only work for base ps4 and ps4 pro owners.

u/Bachstar · 11 pointsr/seriouseats

He's the culinary director of the blog Serious Eats. Used to work in the Cooks Illustrated test kitchen before starting out on his own. He's very beloved on Reddit, partly because he's often participating in community threads, partly because he's a fantastically detailed & process-oriented chef who helps you understand why it's important to do X step or use X ingredient.

Link to his book which is also awesome.

u/fancy_pantser · 11 pointsr/AskCulinary

I think you are starting from the wrong place if you think it will be like Texan chili [con carne]. Mole negro and soft cheeses are the main culinary exports of Oaxaca and they are fantastic. This is one of my two favorite culinary regions in Mexico!

Mole negro
First off, the famous mole negro using the regional pasilla de Oaxaca pepper (aka "chile negro" when dried). There are many recipes for that; find one that has ingredients you can pick up at your local Mexican supermarket or order online. You can cook meat (often chicken) in it or use it to make enchiladas enmoladas. They're soft, cheesy, and the rich, black sauce has a great pepper flavor but also a complex mixture of spices that lend subtle notes to the flavor like a fine wine. Every abuelita in Oaxaca has her own special variation on the recipe.

Traditional meal: nopales + meat + oaxaqueño cheese + guajillo sauce
Another personal favorite coming straight out of restaurants in Oaxaca is often called the Conquista Plate. As you can see, a thin steak over grilled cactus, Oaxaca cheese and chile guajillo sauce. The cactus is nopales; learn to love it's mild flavor, as it's in tons of authentic Mexican dishes. Guajillos are a fairly mild chili with a distinct, tart taste. They're also used all over Mexico so you should be able to find them pretty easily. Oaxaca is famous for cheese, so you can also easily find that in most Mexican markets.

Recipe for the sauce (use only guajillos and ancho). You can find your own instructions on grilling nopales and the steak or whatever meat you want to go with it. That red sauce can basically go on anything.

Chile verde: more like a SW "chili"
Although it's not from further south than Chihuahua and Sonora and has become a staple in New Mexican cuisine, chile verde is probably going to be the best marriage of rich Mexican sauces and a more traditional southwestern US "chili" where chunks of tough meat are stewed or braised in the sauce until tender. I've tested and approve of this recipe as a basic starting point. However, in The Food Lab, Kenji goes into detail about why it's better to let this dish braise in the oven. Here is his final recipe, which is amazing and pretty simple once you get through it a couple times (and usually provides leftovers for days). I do believe he is a bit misinformed (in the book, in particular) about how unique Hatch chilies are; the exact same chilies are widely available as "Anaheim peppers" in addition to other sub-cultivars of the classic "No.9 chile". But I digress.

More about chile verde and SW food
I collected about a dozen cookbooks when living in NM trying to find more chile verde recipes to try. Two more recent ones I highly recommend are New Mexico Cuisine: Recipes from the Land of Enchantment and Red or Green: New Mexico Cuisine. For authentic Oaxaqueño recipes, I have only read Oaxaca al Gusto: An Infinite Gastronomy but it's very good and sub-divides the region to give you a sampling of coastal seafood, cheese from the mountains, and about a thousand mole recipes!

Finally, I want to say I agree with your friend: Tex-Mex is a mistake and traditional Mexican food is where the good eats are at!

u/stevenkmason · 11 pointsr/goodyearwelt

My Santa was /u/havingaraveup and he absolutely knocked it out of the park.

I received The Food Lab cookbook that I've been wanting for some time (how did he know?!?!). It's already on display in my home and I used it for dinner last night (slow cooker bbq steak tips)!

He also included some shoe care products and this homemade Aaron Rodgers candle that I shall sacrificially burn next year when the Lions defeat the Packers on their way to the Super Bowl.

Thank you so much for your generosity!

Also, shoutout to /u/aype for putting this on.

u/MilkyReddit · 11 pointsr/xboxone
u/Flannel_Condom · 11 pointsr/Metal

I'm sporting the Audio-Technica ATH-M50x and a FiiO E10K. I also use the Fidelia music player on a mac. It's definitely an upgrade from standard audio equipment but still under $250. You can easily go nuts and drop $1,000+.

FLACCs are still difficult to find from digital sources for lesser known bands. Not everyone's on bandcamp. I buy the physical CD then rip it to FLACC. 320kb/s MP3s are ok but if you opt for a higher fidelity setup I'd stick to FLACC, ALAC, WAV, or AIFF.

u/TrueDiligence · 11 pointsr/buildapcsales

I will leave a note here for those wondering what a DAC/Amp is and when they are needed.



A DAC is simply a digital to analog converter. A good DAC will minimize the amount of noise that is introduced into the system, noise being hissing, buzzing, ringing, etc. In more technical terms this would be errors made by the DAC when converting a stream of bits coming from your computer to an analog signal.

It doesn't cost much to produce an accurate DAC. Most on-board DACs are good enough that you won't notice any noise. If you do notice noise it's likely because of interference from other components on the motherboard. In that case a cheap external DAC, such as the Fiio D03k, should clean up the signal.

TL;DR: Don't notice any noise, don't buy an external DAC



An amplifier does what the name implies, it amplifies the analog signal going to the headphones. Some headphones are easier to power than others. The SHP9500s are just fine running off your motherboard, which probably has a relatively weak amp, but something like the HifiMan HE-6 requires a lot of power. My recommendation would be to try out the headphones without an amplifier first, then purchase an amp if you aren't reaching the listening volume you would like.

Let's say you need an amplifier, which one do you get? First you should know that there are two major types of amps: solid state and tube. Solid state amplifiers aim to provide clean power to the headphones. Tube amplifiers intentionally introduce distortion to the sound to make it sound more natural. This tends to cut down on harsh treble.
You want to make sure the amp you purchase has enough power for your headphones and will provide clean sound. A great entry level amplifier would be the FX Audio DAC X6 which also happens to have a built in DAC. If you require more power than that the Schiit Magni 3 is exceptional. Anything beyond that, I would recommend heading over to /r/headphones.

TL;DR: Happy with your listening volume? Don't buy a separate amplifier.

u/dvd_sandwich · 10 pointsr/PS4

The PS4 still has optical audio output, so if your headset supports that, you can connect it with that.

I recommend getting something like this, which will convert optical to red/white RCA cables.
A clumsier option would be to plug this cable into your controller.

u/throwswithfats · 10 pointsr/Cooking

I think Serious Eats would be a great starting point for you. It's got the recipes, but it's also got the why. Learning why the food does what it does, and learning why recipes work or don't, is very important.

u/kmojeda · 10 pointsr/cookbooks

As an avid cook and collector of cookbooks, I have three recommendations -

  1. Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat by Samin Nosrat
  2. The Food Lab by J. Kenji Lopez Alt
  3. The Flavor Bible

    The first two will teach you the essentials of cooking. How salt, fat, acid, and heat work together to make delicious food. J Kenji Lopez Alt has a popular serious eats blog and his book will teach you everything you need to know about cooking perfect meat, eggs, burgers, etc.

    Once you learn all of the basics from those books, use the Flavor Bible to be creative.
u/Bananagans · 10 pointsr/pcmasterrace

DO NOT buy this rig....

...unless you make sure you have the right HDMI cables to prevent digital signal degradation for your video output!!!!

u/Fantasysage · 10 pointsr/PS4
u/GramboLazarus · 10 pointsr/realdubstep

IMHO: A subwoofer isn't optional when it comes to dubstep. You'll be missing all the low-end (which let's be honest, is why we're all here) if you omit a decent sub from you set up. As far as amps (I call these receivers) go, you'd probably be best off visiting your local pawn shop or anywhere you can get pre-owned electronics and picking something up. I got mine for under $100CAD and it has power to spare. For ease of set-up I'd suggest finding something with dedicated subwoofer outputs on the back. As for speakers, these or these will do right by you. Personally I use this subwoofer, and it has the juice to have my entire house shaking. Wires are pretty much standard in my experience as long as you're talking about a simple home listening system. These wires would do fine for your needs. If you want a proper listening experience dont use bluetooth speakers, and dont skimp on a subwoofer.

Hope that helps, my dude!

u/kfm946 · 10 pointsr/buildapcsales

I own a pair of these, they're phenomenal for the price, especially this sale price. Extremely comfortable, great mic and great drivers. I recommend ditching the USB dongle it comes with and using the 3.5mm jack (you may or may not need a splitter).

u/picmandan · 10 pointsr/diyaudio

If you want to use the center channel you’ll need more than a basic 2-channel amp - you’ll need a home theater receiver. Any old 5.1 system will do. You should be able to get them used for well under $100. Their main downside is their size.

You’ll also need speaker cables - 16 gauge is fine unless you want to run them over 15-20 feet or so, then 14 ga may be an improvement.

Then run an aux cord from the PC sound out to auxiliary input on the receiver. You may need an adapter like this to go from 3.5mm to RCA inputs (or something that does a similar job).

No special audio interface needed if you’re not doing surround sound. Stereo input for the left/right/center channel is fine.

u/polypeptide147 · 9 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Welcome. You'll be blown away. For real.

What is your budget? For fun, I'll assume that it is just over $200.

For better all-around speakers, I recommend the Elacs.

You'll need speaker wire too. To cut it, a pair of wire strippers.

This amp is an extremely good budget amp. That is an ebay listing for an open box one. You'll save like $20 doing that. I have a few from this seller and they're great.

This RCA cable will plug it into whatever you want. That thing is crazy good quality for the price. I mean it.

So, that is all you will need. And trust me. You'll be blown away. For real. If you've never heard good speakers, those elacs will sound like a whole new world to you.

u/aljobar · 9 pointsr/Cooking

You seriously cannot go past Kenji Lopez-Alt’s book: The Food Lab. It’s several hundred pages of how to cook basic things properly, then apply those techniques to more complex dishes. It even covers things like equipment, knife skills, etc. I understand that he’s launching a second copy soon, too.

u/julieannie · 9 pointsr/blogsnark

Some ideas that have worked well for me/others:

Aging Parents - Kind of expensive (fluctuates a ton) but if you have a parent with a ton of photos who talks about scanning them all in someday, this scanner is fantastic. I have the older version and it's literally so easy to use that even my mom and dad could figure it out when I let them borrow it. Not a great bulk doc scanner but exactly what you need for photos. Pair with a case like this to store the originals in and you've done a great deed.

Newlyweds- If they don't have specific interests, a picnic blanket goes over well. I have the one linked and it's nice for the cheap price. Pair with some wine, maybe some other picnic accessories. I'm also giving a minted gift for a custom designed print for wedding photos to my brother/new sister-in-law.

Teens- Move beyond the selfie stick - some phone lenses go a long way, get a self timer for the phone, or a PowerCore. The powercore isn't sexy but super loved by all. I usually hit up BaubleBar or Sephora for deals too.

Handyman- I shoved this cheap light in my husband's stocking last year and he loves it. It's super handy.

Homebody- This is out of stock in the best size right now but it always comes back in. It is the softest blanket ever, doesn't shed, and we bought them for every room of the house.

Dog- What dog doesn't love bully sticks? A good deal, really good quality and my dogs have loved them.

On my wishlist- A milk frother, The Food Lab cookbook, a magnetic pincushion, maybe some Ugg slippers, a bunch of Etsy art and Essie gel couture nail polish. Debating a special purchase for myself with a bonus I received, I'm thinking a camera for a big trip coming up if I can find the right holiday deal.

u/HyperCubed4 · 9 pointsr/seriouseats

I worked briefly as a butcher and, as a rule, I thought all minced beef was the same, aside from the fat content (I didn't say I was a good butcher). Eye of Round vs. Brisket? They're both extra lean, right?

Nope. After reading an article Kenji had wrote about the different kinds of beef cuts, I learned that I could make my burgers exponentially more flavourful by mixing and matching cuts.

Kenji knows what's up, and I'm heavily considering buying his book on Amazon.

No, this isn't a paid/undisclosed promotion... but if Kenji wants to throw a couple bucks my way, I won't say no.

u/8f27 · 9 pointsr/Kochen

Ganz klar: The Food Lab!
Ist zwar Englisch aber trotzdem ganz klare Empfehlung! Einerseits sind die Rezepte gut, wenn auch klar amerikanisch andererseits habe ich noch aus keinem Kochbuch so viel mitgenommen und gelernt!

u/Banzai51 · 9 pointsr/PleX

Harmony Hub is currently on sale at Amazon too. Hub plus the basic remote for $80

u/justathoughtfromme · 9 pointsr/hometheater

Harmony Hub. Get the package that included the physical remote also. It's currently available for $60 right now on Amazon.

u/AFTVnews · 9 pointsr/fireTV

This Harmony remote and Hub is my go-to recommendation. It just went on sale for $69.99, which is the lowest I've ever seen it.

u/NoradIV · 9 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You mean 13449.75?

u/impingu1984 · 9 pointsr/pcmasterrace

£90 is nothing

What about $13,500

u/vsTerminus · 9 pointsr/headphones

FiiO E10K Olympus DAC / Amp on Amazon

I am using it to drive a pair of Sennheiser HD 598 SE headphones at work.

Before you chastise me for open back in an office space, I listen at a relatively low volume, the ambient noise here is pretty loud, and I've okayed it with my cube neighbor who is rarely even at his desk.

Some initial thoughts:

  • The Bass switch is subtle enough (depending on the music) that I actually find it pleasant. Edit: Probably won't use it much long term, but it's nice for some kinds of music.
  • Size is smaller than I expected. Pencil for scale. (Sorry, no banana available)
  • Sound quality is quite nice for this purpose. You'll hear from others that this is basically an entry level DAC and they're not wrong. It works for me because I'm just using it to listen to lossy music (320mp3) at work and wanted something a little nicer than this old laptop's onboard DAC.
  • I have Gain on Low and wouldn't dream of raising it. OS volume sits around 70-80% and the physical knob on the amp doesn't rise above 3 most of the time.
  • Installation was dead simple, but I'm running Arch Linux (ALSA + Pulseaudio) so there is no driver installation. I just plug it in and tell the media player which device to use.

    The biggest issue I've been having so far is not the DAC's fault, but the fact that my laptop is quite old and has a weak CPU. This led to some crackling when the CPU was under heavy load, so I've had to tweak a number of things (process priorities, disable "smooth scrolling" in my browser, etc) to eliminate it.

    Otherwise it seems like a solid purchase.
u/TMobotron · 9 pointsr/synthesizers

Volca beats uses a dual unbalanced mono signal. When you use headphones, the same mono signal is going to the left speaker and the right speaker using the left and right connections of the cable, which causes no problems. When you use an audio interface, you're plugging a cable carrying two identical signals into a jack that's expecting two identical signals but with one of them phase inverted. Your audio interface is probably expecting a mono balanced input, which is not what it's getting. Normally with a balanced input, the signals are sent phase inverted. The receiving hardware then flips the inverted signal and the signals are combined.

With the dual unbalanced signal, since neither signal is being sent phase inverted, when the receiving hardware inverts the signal it becomes phase inverted. When the signals are combined, you're left with just the noise/distortion that a balanced cable is normally trying to eliminate.

Korg really should've made this more clear with the Volca series. FYI - here is the cable I'm using, which works fine (I only use one of the 1/4" plugs).

u/thingsyoucouldthink · 9 pointsr/PS4

In my opinion, the best option is to buy a regular pair of great headphones, then buy a mic to go with them. No gaming headset will sound as good as a pair of headphones for the same price. Get a pair of headphones in your price range, then a mic and the audio splitter will be an extra $18.
I currently use a pair of Audio Technica M50x's, which I bought to listen to music with and wound up using them for gaming. They are very comfortable and sound fantastic, although I personally wish they had a bit more bass, for gaming. For a microphone, I prefer the Pyle-Pro PMEM1 Headworn Mic, because it sounds far better than any other microphone I’ve used. Some people like the Zalman Clip mic, but in my experience it didn’t capture my voice clearly and picked up a ton of ambient noise. I just wear the mic underneath the headphones, which is perfectly comfortable. MAKE SURE YOU BUY A SPLITTER! The mic won’t work on the PS4 without one. I use this one. Overall, it’s ~$180 for a great gaming setup, and you get an amazing pair of headphones that you can listen to music with and wear out of the house.
If you want to look into a different pair of headphones, The Wirecutter has some phenomenal advice on headphones. They also have a list for gaming headsets, and I would take their advice on those if you have your heart set on a headset.

Consider getting a cheaper pair of headphones The Wirecutter recommends if you won’t use the M50x’s for anything else other than gaming, but they are among the best headphones for listening to music, and work great for gaming.




Other Headphones:

u/HULKx · 9 pointsr/xboxone
u/Du6e · 9 pointsr/buildapcforme

Based on all the research you put in, i don't think that you really need our help :p

But just in case you just need some re-assurance, the R7 series is definitely going to get you the best bang / buck, although it'll be interesting to see how Intel prices SkyLake X / KabyLake X.

You'll also have to look into if their block supports AM4 since they only say that they support AMD.

Why even bother with your SoundBlaster if it's going to complicate the build. I'd just sell it an get an external solution like a FiiO E10K or a Scarlet Solo (Although i guess that depends on what headphone you have).

Even with something like this, you still have quiet a bit leftover for some sleeved cables and a keyboard / headphone upgrade.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | AMD RYZEN 7 1700 3.0GHz 8-Core Processor | $319.75 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | MSI X370 GAMING PRO CARBON ATX AM4 Motherboard | $178.98 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $119.88 @ OutletPC
Storage | Samsung 960 Evo 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $129.99 @ B&H
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | Purchased For $0.00
Storage | Crucial MX300 750GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | Purchased For $0.00
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Superclocked Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card | Purchased For $0.00
Power Supply | SeaSonic 520W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular Fanless ATX Power Supply | $126.50 @ Jet
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $875.10
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-04-10 14:41 EDT-0400 |

u/lono10c · 9 pointsr/VIDEOENGINEERING

These are cheap and cheesy, but they strip HDCP.

u/Arve · 8 pointsr/audiophile

They're powered speakers, meaning you don't need an amplifier or receiver.

You can plug them straight into a computer using this cable.

u/UrbanToiletShrimp · 8 pointsr/techsupportmacgyver

I had this problem a while ago when I bought new speakers, the solution for me was to buy a cheap external DAC and plug that into the optical port on my motherboard, since it's just light there is no electrical interference.

u/Clobbersaurus7 · 8 pointsr/seriouseats

Oops I did it again. Posted a recipe from The Food Lab that I can't find published online. So i guess instead of a recipe I'll implore you to buy the book because it's awesome

Kenji did not pay or bribe me for this plug btw..

u/seainhd · 8 pointsr/AskCulinary

The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

u/RouletteZoku · 8 pointsr/buildapcsales

Obligatory have these headphones, AMA.

I replaced the ear pads with hm5 velour pads, (got them when they were like half off) no modifications required (once the stock earpads are removed, they can’t be reused, just a warning)

u/WhatisH2O4 · 8 pointsr/UnethicalLifeProTips

I have the m50, so no detachable cord, and they are still treating me well to this day. I eventually upgraded and my new set has velour ear pads, which are awesome. Even though my m50s don't get as much use anymore, I got some replacement pads for them and it was like getting a whole new set of headphones. So much comfier, no more getting sweaty by wearing them too long, and they have a slightly improved soundstage imo by adding these new pads. Might be worth checking out, they're only $20 right now.

velour ear pads for ATH-M50X

u/Helmerdrake · 7 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/honer123 · 7 pointsr/xboxone

Actually connect this Headset adapter for headsets with separate headphone / microphone plugs - 3.5mm 4 position to 2x 3 position 3.5mm M/F

Then the mono adapter to the headphone side

Then this,
Maeline 3.5mm Female to 2 Male Gold Plated Headphone Mic Audio Y Splitter Flat Cable

u/SuspiciousRhubarb4 · 7 pointsr/Cooking

Take a look at The Food Lab by /u/J_Kenji_Lopez-Alt . He covers a lot of the science without relying on so much of the BS conventional wisdom.

u/Darklyte · 7 pointsr/GifRecipes

I didn't know she had a cookbook. When I look for recipes, /u/j_kenji_lopez-alt is my first choice (and his book, his serious eats) but he doesn't really do desserts. Bravetart is professionally a pastry nerd and I've been using her primarily for desserts recently. When I found out she had a cookbook I ordered it immediately!

u/djscsi · 7 pointsr/DJs

1: Use a RCA->1/4" M-M cable

2: Buy some of these super handy adapters and use them with a regular RCA cable

u/marssaxman · 7 pointsr/Beatmatch

I have never heard of "cinch cables", and a web search only turns up what are basically zipties, so I don't know what your friend is on about.

Bring an RCA-to-RCA cable, definitely, since you'll most likely be plugging your controller's RCA output into one of the RCA line inputs on the club's DJ mixer. But I'd also bring either an RCA-to-phono cable, or a pair of RCA-to-phono adapters, because sometimes you'll need to plug into a PA style mixer instead, which will use 1/4" phono jacks for its stereo line inputs.

I also carry an RCA-to-XLR cable - I don't need it very often, but it's nice to know that I'll always be able to plug in, no matter what kind of crazy situation I encounter.

u/Man-Bear_Pig · 7 pointsr/hometheater

Plug in to audio out-
Hosa CPR-202 Dual 1/4 inch TS to Dual RCA Stereo Interconnect Cable, 6.6 feet

u/moustachedelait · 7 pointsr/karaoke
  • I started out with just trying to get it going on my laptop with kjams & a microphone.
  • But that didn't sound good and look good, so I hooked up my laptop to my tv through a receiver
  • But using my mic through the laptop mic hole, caused a delay between the audio of the song and the mic
  • This is why you need a mixer. You need the sound of the laptop and the sound of the mic to arrive at the same time. I got this one. Mic goes in channel one, laptop goes in channel 3 or 4 (get the right cable)
  • That mixer's output goes into my receiver now. My receiver allows to get the audio from a different input than the video. This was essential in my setup. I have a basic yamaha 4 hdmi receiver. I turn it to hdmi1, but get the sound from one of the audio inputs, where the mixer goes into (get the right cable)
  • sweet, now I have music and mic arriving in my receiver, and it's going to the speakers and the tv is displaying my laptop
  • now people are tripping over the mic cable and they want a second mic
  • get yourself some wireless mics. the ones i bought are no longer for sale but they are "dual channel" and "uhf" or something
  • now you need some songs though I have to say, just opening youtube and searching a song title + ' karaoke' works pretty darn well as well
  • and some disco lights!
  • my friends like it and say it's the best home setup they know

    Btw, nice effort on the è but you want the other one: fiancé
    It's easy to remember: é the stripe goes on and so does the sound. è the stripe stops and the sound is short

u/fence-sitter · 7 pointsr/macsetups

I don't really have a recommendation, but make sure you decide on how you'll setup your audio connection. Like if you want to use speakers get a monitor with a audio out port, or you could plug them directly into the ps4 controller but I got annoyed being tethered so I ended up buying like three adapters

u/canesfan2001 · 7 pointsr/cordcutters

Get this bad boy:

My only problem was it was TOO good for my area (I have some green channels). It would catch the signal AND the little bit of signal bouncing off the buildings near me would cancel it out and cause interference.

I fixed it by pointing it in the wrong direction at a weird angle, which meant it now only picks up the small reflected signal on those good channels. My picture has been crystal clear since that day on every channel, rain or shine.

Not to say you will have that experience exactly, but it's a good antenna.

u/Xb3am · 7 pointsr/cordcutters

I got this antenna. I average about 30 miles to all the major stations in my area and I mounted the antenna inside my attic with a low noise amp. Looking at the signal map you provided I think a similar setup should work for you. Good luck!

u/Newwackydeli · 7 pointsr/PS3

You're gonna want a powered splitter, I have this one:
And it works fine. I use it on a monitor, and a television with noticeable extra lag.

u/xchaos · 7 pointsr/playstation

If you're using a 1080p or a 1440p monitor, you can use a HDMI splitter to bypass HDCP. Been getting a lot of audio issues with my capture card because of HDCP so I bought this and it seems to fix it. A lot of streamers use the same splitter to stream PS3 games since you can't turned off HDCP.

u/iAmMitten1 · 7 pointsr/letsplay

Years ago, someone recommended that I buy this HDMI splitter to get around the PS3's (or any system's) HDCP protection. I've used it many times and have never had any issues recording PS3 gameplay through it. It's been mentioned quite a few times in this subreddit by various people, all of whom say it's worked well for them.

u/rabidfurby · 7 pointsr/audio

According to this your TV has an optical audio output (SPDIF). You'll get much better sound quality if you use that instead of the headphone output.

Use this to convert that digital into analog (output over RCA cables):

Then an amplifier to output to speaker wires: (or, slightly cheaper in black:

Cables you'll need, if you don't have them already, are a Toslink/SPDIF cable, a stereo RCA cable, and speaker wires. Buy them from Monoprice, or get ripped off buying them from somewhere else.

If you want even cheaper, you can forego the digital-to-analog converter and connect the headphone output straight to the amp, but if it were me I'd spend the extra $20 on the DAC.

Edit: after some more Amazon searching, I'd go with this DAC instead. A few bucks more, but much better reviews, includes a Toslink cable, and is powered by a standard micro-USB (cell phone charger) plug.

u/MardukX · 7 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

How big is your room? What are you using this system for primarily - music, movies, video games? A mix? Are you looking for a 2.0 system (two front speakers only), a 2.1 (front speakers plus subwoofer), or something bigger (adding in another front channel speaker, subwoofer(s), etc.)? Are you located in the US or elsewhere? See below for some start-up recommendations, from a fellow newbie located in the US..

u/koopai · 7 pointsr/buildapcsales

I have 598s and use this. I've never used the Schiit stack but used my FiiO E10k every day for two years and love it.

u/Kryzm · 7 pointsr/headphones

Congrats! I love my 598Cs. They're going to be my go to headphones until Massdrop ships my K7XX :)

Now every I see the 598Cs I recommend getting this replacement cable.

It's worth every penny. Enormous upgrade over the stock cable.

u/SergeantStuck · 7 pointsr/Tipper

I've been using Beyerdynamics DT 770 Pro 80 ohm paired with a Fiio E10k DAC and the sound quality is incredible. You'd be under budget with this setup too and the E10k also has a bass boost switch if that's your thing ;)

That's more of a desktop setup, though my phone does drive the 770s pretty well. If you're looking for headphones for on the go listening, I'd recommend Sony's WH1000XM3, they're the best noise cancelling headphones I've ever owned.

u/lirakis · 7 pointsr/amateurradio

hey friend, i recently wrote a "how to" setup APRS with a HT, Direwolf, and YAAC on linux. copy paste is below ...


If audio is getting from the radio to direwolf, check the volume levels on the radio output, and check the mic gain on your computer. These are really the only two settings that will affect how direwolf can rx and decode. Direwolf logs out when it receives something, and it tells you on a scale of 0-100 the volume level. I try to shoot for 50-60 and I get very consistent decode.

Tutorial: APRS software user interface, with software based audio TNC, and RF gateway


APRS is a tool that was designed to convey information about objects, telemetry, and reporting, as well as communicate between individuals and groups with direct, and group messaging. Many people have the experience, or mindset, that APRS is used primarily for location tracking. This is partially due to the limitations on many hardware implementations of APRS that vendors have provided. One way to learn more about APRS as a broader, and more powerful system is to utilize software to visualize, and interact with other stations, and objects. This short tutorial will discuss how to setup a software based user interface (UI) for APRS that will provide you with mapping, messaging, and object manipulation abilities, as well as how to connect that UI through a software based audio modem, or TNC, directly to a radio, so that other users within your immediate range, as well as the range of any digipeaters will be able to interact with the same local APRS data without any reliance on the internet, or internet gateways.

User interface:

There are several different user interfaces available that have been designed for APRS.

UI-View is a popular piece of software which is no longer being maintained as the original author has passed away.

YAAC is a successor/replacement to UI-View which is cross platform (Java) with a intuitive interface, and many capabilites. We will be using YAAC for this tutorial.

Xastir is primarily a Linux application built on the X windows library system. It is quite functional, but is less intuitive and is currently less activly developed than YAAC.

Audio Modem (TNC):

TNC's originally were AX.25 packet assembler/dissasemblers with the addition of a modem to convert baseband digital signals into audio tones. In the case of a software TNC, it has the same capabilites, encoding and decoding both the AX.25 layer, and data layer to and from audio so it can be transmitted or received from a radio.

Direwolf is the premier audio tnc, which is documented to run on Windows, OSX, Linux, and single board computer Linux environments such as Raspberry Pi BeagleBone Black etc.

RF Gateway:

The RF gateway is probably the simplest piece in the equation. You need only a radio that supports audio in, audio out, and VOX. There may be some complexity if you choose to make your own cables, however there are ready made cables for popular and inexpensive radios (Baofeng) which are available for under $20 from amazon, which feature isolation to protect both your computer, and your radio.

Here is a link to a high quality cable available on Amazon, which works for Boafeng radios:


It can be very helpful to have a radio that is capable of broadcasting an APRS beacon to test your setup as you go.

Your laptop may have a single plug for both headphone and microphone (TRRS) or it may have two seperate plugs. If you have two seperate plugs, you will need a splitter to seperate the microphone, and headphone connections from the cable linked to in the above RF gateway section. The cable linked below will split the two should you need it.

System setup:

We are going to build the APRS system from the ground up, starting with Direwolf, the audio modem/tnc and the RF gateway. If you are a Linux user, there are packages for direwolf in ubuntu/debian as well as yum based systems:

sudo apt-get install direwolf or sudo yum install direwolf

For Windows and OSX go to and follow the instructions to download the latest release and run direwolf from a command window.

direwolf does not need any configuration for our initial setup, simply run direwolf, connect the audio and microphone jacks between the computer and your radio, and tune your radio to 144.390.

Be certain that you do not have any rx-CTCSS or DCS tones setup. Set your squelch as low as it will go, and enable vox with the lowest setting possible on your radio. Now is the time when it is handy to have a HT that is capable of beaconing APRS data. If you have one, set it to beacon and you should start see data coming in on the terminal where direwolf is running. You may need to adjust the volume on the output of your radio, the output of your computer, as well as the microphone gain on your computer to get everything decoding properly.

Once you can reliably decode becons from a local HT, or from a digipeater within range, you can move on to setting up the YAAC user interface, and connecting it to direwolf.

YAAC, the APRS user interface software we are using, is a Java program and requires that your system has the Java runtime environment installed. For Linux users, be certain that you install the full JRE, and not a "headless" JRE, as the headless versions do not come with the graphical libraries that YAAC requires to run. Also as of this writing YAAC did not work with Java 9, however I experienced no problems using the OpenJDK Java 8 JRE so be sure to check the version you are installing.

After you have the Java Runtime Environment installed, download the self upacking binary for your operating system from the YAAC website at

For linux users, the file was not set as an executable, so I had to chmod +x YAAC_linux_x86.bin before running ./YAAC_linux_x86.bin

NOTE: YAAC does not extract itself into a directory - so you likely want to create a directory first, then move the self extracting file into that directory so that you dont end up with a bunch of files all over.

After the package has extracted, simply run the YACC.jar program. You can do this from the command line with: java -jar YACC.jar

YACC will ask you if you want help configuring it, select yes and walk through the steps configuring your call sign, latitude/longitude etc. When you get to the part about adding and configuring interfaces, select the option to "Add AGWPE Port". YACC will create a new window with default information populated - you MUST add your callsign, and change the transmit dropdown from "disabled" to "enabled". Click finish, and on the next screen you can decide whether you want to beacon or not (I chose yes) along with any free form comment you want, then click finish.

That is it - you have a basic APRS software station set up that can transmit, and recieve via RF link. You should see objects start to appear on the YAAC map view, and the direwolf command line output should match up with data YAAC is displaying.


From here you can learn how to create message groups, chat directly with stations, place objects on the map so that they are only visible to other local RF stations, or so that they propegate out through the internet via a digipeater I-Gate (if one is in range) so that they show up on the APRS-IS backbone (e.g.

u/astallasalion · 7 pointsr/buildapcsales

You'll want a DAC or audio interface to get the most value out of these.

You can run these with a 3.5mm to 2xTS adapter but you'll be much more susceptible to grounding issues/noise.

The best solution would be to get a device that has balanced TRS/XLR output (both are electrically equivalent, pin-for-pin).

u/Evexium · 7 pointsr/gaming

Setup Specs:

u/LRed · 7 pointsr/headphones

It has an optical out so if you want a cheap dac/amp combo you could use the SMSL SD 793II and if your PC has an optical out you can use it with that too.

Also according to this thread on gamefaqs

It does support USB dacs but I have no experience with this so you should do more research.

As for the 'flat' sounding of headphones I'm fairly certain the 598's are fairly efficient though I think an amp could possibly help tighten the bass region due to the 300ohm peak at 100hz IIRC.

Something like E10k also has a bass boost which may be helpful if you find them too bass light. But that's usb so you should do research on that.

u/subject217 · 7 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Not to one up you, but there's this.

u/RetepNamenots · 7 pointsr/fffffffuuuuuuuuuuuu

It may not have a 3.5mm audio out, but does it have a component audio out (red and white plugs)? If so you can get one of these:

u/mollymoo · 7 pointsr/PS3

That's really not a good way to do it. Line level audio is intended to transfer an audio signal between devices, not to drive headphones. You would be overloading the PS3's audio output, which is designed for loads of around 10k ohm, if you connected some headphones which might have an impedance 100 times lower. It would be quiet, you'd have no volume control and you'd likely get some distortion.

The right way to do it - the way which wouldn't overload the PS3's audio output and would give you adequate volume which you could control - is to use an amplifier. Practically any stereo will have the required line-in and headphone out, or you can buy a dedicated headphone amp. You'd need, say, an amp like this and a cable like this(if you wanted to connect it directly to the PS3).

u/Subbota · 7 pointsr/rocksmith

I use this headphone amp to split my signal to RS, an amp, and a third line for recording raw guitar output.

With individual amps I can set levels for each output.

u/brandon7s · 6 pointsr/PS4

I have a couple audiophile quality headphones (newest being my Hifiman HE-400i). I use a cheap lapel clip-on mic along with a 4-pole y-splitter adapter. Plug the headphones and mic into their spots on the splitter and then plug the splitter into your controller (or Mixamp, which I use). Works great.

u/Scorch8482 · 6 pointsr/xboxone

My current setup is A50s and a Modmic plugged into a Y-adapter that plugs into the adapter and so far it works amazing. Let me try to get you links:

-Modmic (incredible quality; built to last and made by a guy who's just starting up):


-Sennheiser (better for gaming, however the sound leaks so others can hear your music at a low volume (cant be used in public places))

-A50s (what I have; perfect for music and great for gaming; very private and doesnt leak sound very much):

The modmic is magnetic and will stick
To your headset while having the ability to be taken off with ease to leave the headphones bare. The a50s are awesome for music and pretty good for gaming, but if you do gaming at about a 80-20 ratio to music listening than I would go with Sennheiser 558s or 598s. The y-adapter just allows you to combine both the headphones and the mic into one 3.5 mm AUX jack.

Total cost was about $165 (not including xbone adapter). Fairly good price for better headphones (structurally and sound-quality), ability to use everywhere and not look dumb with an attached mic, listen to music that sounds phenomenal, and speak in crystal clear quality to my buddies (who have already noticed how well it sounded in comparison to the xbone chat headsets).

TLDR: Get audiophile headphones, a modmic, and y adapter for a better and cheaper headset that can be used as normal headphones and as a headset (removable mic).

u/reddit_reaper · 6 pointsr/hackintosh

You need to 4 to 3 splitter. Then you can plug in the mic cable into the mic port and the speaker cable into the audio port. Here's a link StarTech MUYHSFMM 3.5mm 4 Pin to 2x3 Pin 3.5mm Headset Splitter Adapter - F/M

u/Piyh · 6 pointsr/GlobalOffensive

I bought a 4 pole to 3 pole splitter (they can be found on ebay for cheaper) for my earbuds that have a mic on them. My tower only has a dedicated mic and dedicated speaker jack, so this is the low cost solution.

Turns out the splitter flips the audio channels on my earbuds so I have to wear them backwards while gaming. Took me about 3 games to figure out why I was calling out every position wrong.

u/MikeFive · 6 pointsr/cordcutters

NHL Gamecenter

MLS Live

NBA Gamepass

NFL Gamepass

You can also watch NFL games free over the air with a cheap antenna depending on your location / how close to the broadcast towers you are. In my case I had to use this $45 outdoor antenna that I simply mounted in place of the old DirecTV satellite. I'm about 30 miles from towers and I could probably use a slightly larger one because occasionally I get a little bit of static or signal drop.

Even if you paid for every one of those streaming services and bought a $100 antenna you'd be paying less yearly than a cable subscription.

u/wip30ut · 6 pointsr/Cooking

am i allowed to recommend Food Lab? I know there was some controversy with Reddit and Kenji on his participation (and whether it constituted free advertising or not).

u/Ravenhaft · 6 pointsr/zerocarb

Oh well if you have a cooktop, I use a great recipe I found. I just use a regular stainless steel pan.

  1. Salt generously, then let sit at room temperature for 45 minutes
  2. Heat to med-high heat with 1 tbsp ghee, let it start to smoke just a little bit then throw on the steak.
  3. Cook, flipping every once in awhile, generally about 6 minutes.
  4. Add 1 TBSP of butter and cook for another few minutes. Turn down temperature if it starts smoking too much.

    I do this almost every day and LOVE the ribeyes I get out of it.

    If you want the official recipe buy this book, it's changed my cooking life.
u/curlycue · 6 pointsr/LosAngeles

Aight girl-

Foreign Cuisine-
How to Eataly - Oscar Farinetti - We made the most AMAZING brisket meatballs and a super simple yet completely delicious red sauce out of this book
Around My French Table - Dorie Greenspan - Where the Cornish hens and gougeres came from.
Real Korean Cooking - Maangchi - Korean Fried Chicken. We've made them twice now because they're so good and can't wait to do more.
Mexican Everyday - Rick Bayless - Learned how to make perfect guac from this book and so far we've made these v tasty chorizo/mushroom/potato tacos. The recipe is SO cheap and SO voluminous that we had it as a taco filling, a quesadilla filling, and we're making a hash with it for brunch this morning.
Every Grain of Rice - Fuchsia Dunlop - We haven't tried anything out of here yet but there are sooooo many good-looking recipes in here.
Entice with Spice - Shubhra Ramineni - Likewise, haven't made anything out of here yet but looking forward to trying it all out soon.
Jack's Wife Freda - Dean & Maya Jankelowitz - This is actually a book from a restaurant that my fiance and I LOVED when we last visited NYC. It's got a lot of fusion recipes. Mediterranean/Israeli/South African/etc. Really unique flavors and also v comfort-food based. We're making rosewater waffles out of this book tomorrow!

Rose's Baking Basics - Rose Levy Barenbaum - This book is incredible. She has tons and tons of step-by-step photos which is SUPER helpful. We made the dark chocolate caramel tart out of this book, but pretty much everything in here looks amazing.
Modern Baking - Donna Hay - I mean... There is some INSANELY decadent looking stuff in here. We haven't tried any of these recipes yet but I can't wait to!

Cook Like a Pro - Ina Garten - It was really hard to pick just one Ina book but I liked most of the recipes in this one. She has this ridic recipe for a dijon mustard chicken that is INCREDIBLE. Also, this bitch knows how to cook some veggies. Big fan of this one.
The Food Lab - /u/j_kenji_lopez-alt - I just love this guy, tbh. We've made a really fantastic beef tenderloin out of this book and an incredible red wine sauce to go with it and of course, his famous roasted potatoes which are now my holy grail recipe for roasted potatoes. This book is like a science textbook only instead of boring stuff it's FOOD science, which is my favorite kind.

Those were all the ones we purchased ourselves (though technically Eataly was a gift BUT we love it and plan to use it often.) We have other cookbooks in our stable that we've received as gifts, which is what resulted in my fiance and I deciding we wanted to embark on this journey. We kept being given cookbooks and never doing anything with them. But man, do people love it when you send them pics of stuff you cooked out of a book they gave you. If people give you cookbooks, use them!! It will make their day to see it's being used. Here's what else is on our cookbook shelf-

The Forest Feast Gatherings - Erin Gleeson - This is a vegetarian book my fiance's mom gave us a few years ago for Christmas. We have a bunch of veggie friends (and friends with a lot of different allergies) so we turn to this book to have a few things that are edible by all of them when we have them over, as we often do. This book has a really delicious salad that has pomegranate seeds, pear, and hazelnut that is out of this world good. I also got my HG salad dressing from this book.
The Salad Bowl - Nicola Graimes - Another gift from my fiance's mom. Is she trying to tell us something?? Honestly haven't looked much into this book yet but it sure is pretty.
The Unofficial Harry Potter Cookbook - Dinah Bucholz - This was a gift from the assistant in my office. Everyone in my office knows me as the Harry Potter girl because I have a lightning bolt tattoo, haha. We haven't made anything out of this yet, but we probably will have some sort of epic feast with recipes from this book when GoT starts back up later this year.
Talk About Good - Louisiana Lafayette Junior League - My boss gave this to my fiance and I as part of an engagement gift. My fiance went to school in New Orleans. It's primarily New Orleansian/Cajun food. Haven't made anything out of it yet, but we are looking forward to it.

And that's what's on our cookbook shelf for now.

edit also omg thanks for the gold!! <3

u/KnivesAndShallots · 6 pointsr/Chefit

I love cookbooks, and have probably fifty in my collection.

The ones I keep going back to are:

  • Anything by Yotam Ottolenghi - He's an Israeli-born chef in London, and his recipes are a great combination of creative, relatively easy, and unique. He has a knack for combining unusual flavors, and I've never disliked anything I've cooked from him. If you're relatively green, don't get Nopi (too advanced). His other three or four books are all great.

  • Mexican Everyday by Rick Bayless. Bayless has a PBS show and owns several restaurants in Chicago. He's a great chef and his recipes are accessible and fun.

  • The Food Lab by u/J_Kenji_Lopez-Alt. I was skeptical at first, since Lopez-Alt's website is so comprehensive, but the book is absolutely beautiful and contains both recipes and explanations of technique and science.

  • Modernist Cooking at Home - It's expensive and many of the recipes are challenging and/or require special equipment, but the book is truly groundbreaking and never fails to stoke my creativity. It's the home version of his 6-volume tome which many think is one of the most innovative cookbooks in the last 20 years.
u/tblaich · 6 pointsr/Cooking

Well you can't go wrong with The Food Lab cookbook. It doesn't get too complicated and explains things very well.

A Victorinox Chef's Knife is about 40 dollars and will last him a long time and it can be cool to have one for him.

u/Qodesh-One · 6 pointsr/AskCulinary

Jacques Pépin New Complete Techniques

The America's Test Kitchen Cooking School Cookbook: Everything You Need to Know to Become a Great Cook

The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

From here you can move on to:

Institut Paul Bocuse Gastronomique: The definitive step-by-step guide to culinary excellence


Larousse Gastronomique: The World's Greatest Culinary Encyclopedia, Completely Revised and Updated

These are all great resources. Also look for culinary school text books and always youtube.

The resources are out there and with everyone having a different way to learn and adopt information the variety in options is tremendous. Good luck and keep cooking. If you have any questions please reach out and if I can help I will.

u/legalpothead · 6 pointsr/KitchenConfidential

Food Lab.

Dude, don't be rude to people in your own thread.

u/r1zz · 6 pointsr/videos

How about the $14,000 hdmi cord. Don't forget to read the reviews. My favorite: a reviewer gave it 1 star because "it doesn't work with my VCR."

u/notdeadyet01 · 6 pointsr/buildapcsales

Just a heads up, you'll want to purchase one of [these] ( to go along with it. The wire that comes with it is 10 feet long and the 3.5mm adapter is huge and clunky.

u/josefnpat · 6 pointsr/volcas

So this came to a surprise to me, just because I haven't had that much experience with this kind of gear.

Here are my notes:

  1. Plugging in headphones (TRS) to the volca works fine.
  2. Plugging in a stereo cable (TRS) to a normal stereo system works fine.
  3. Plugging in a stereo cable (TRS) to a mixing board = huge amounts of white noise.
  4. Plugging in a mono cable (TS) to a mixing board = works perfectly.

    I don't have enough details, but I think you're connecting your volca (stereo) to a line in (mono) and it's getting messed up because the mixing board is expecting mono.

    I figured this out by taking one of my 3.5mm TRS to 6.35 mm TS cable only using the T and it worked fine.

    My final solution was to buy a TS 3.5mm to TS 6.35mm cable for each of my volcas and everything works fantastically now.

    edit: if you're using a volca sample, which is actually stereo, you'll want to split the TRS to 2x TS and put it into two channels on your mixing board.
u/LS6 · 6 pointsr/audiophile

that will do what you describe.

That said, unless some labeling is obscured on your TV pic, it looks like that coax jack is an input.

u/drdiddlegg · 6 pointsr/hometheater
u/Wh0_The_Fuck_Cares · 6 pointsr/mechanicalheadpens

You might want to consider changing those pads on the m40x. Went from stock to Brainwavz on my m30x (same pads) and the difference in comfort and sound is substantial.

u/OldFalls · 6 pointsr/podcasts

Something like this

You can spend more and get one with balanced inputs, but even these cheap little ones work well.

u/nymets12985 · 6 pointsr/VinylDeals

You could always just get a headphone amp and separate powered speakers. In order to not break the bank but still have quality products, I recommend:

Headphone Amp

Powered speakers

Have owned both and can say you’ll be happy, especially for the price point.

u/Dae314 · 6 pointsr/WorldofTanks

In my opinion, you should only do that if you already have a good set of headphones/speakers that can actually take advantage of the increased sound quality from a card. If you're running WoT with a $20 set of stereo speakers, you'd get more "sound-quality-per-dollar" by getting a better set of headphones than you would with a sound card.

The other reason I came here is to recommend that you get a DAC that's external to the computer. They're undoubtedly more convenient for headphones (who's going to run their headphone cable to the back of the PC?), and arguably you reduce the amount of EM noise by taking the DAC outside of your computer rather than have it sit next to all of the computer's electronics on the PCI-E slot.

The last time I looked, the FiiO E10K was highly recommended for entry level price-to-performance.

u/DZCreeper · 6 pointsr/buildapc

Gaming headsets suck, period.

Get yourself a nice pair of well reviewed closed back headphones. Open back leaks more noise and tends to have a little less bass.

Then you need a mic you can attach to the side like a regular 'gaming' headset, only except now your audio is high quality.

Then if you want to improve the experience a little more, grab an external DAC and headphone amp.

u/metafizikal · 6 pointsr/audiophile

Best answer is probably/maybe. Here are some options at different price points:

$30 UCA202

$76 FiiO E10K

$100 Modi 2

$150 ODAC

u/Caswell64 · 6 pointsr/vinyl

So all speakers need to be 'driven' by an amplifier- meaning fed electric power to do their magic in addition to the sound signal. Powered speakers have the amp built-in so you just need to send the line-level sound (typically over RCA connectors) and the built-in amp will take care of the rest. Passive speakers, by contrast, do not have an amplifier, and expect one to drive them in addition to the sound signal. Almost always they are both carried over speaker wire like this (

Those Dayton speakers are passive, so you will need an amp like the one you linked. I'm not familiar enough with that amp to give an informed judgment as to whether that amp is powerful enough to drive those speakers.

Also, for background, what the pre-amp (or phono stage) is doing is converting the very weak signal coming from your turntable cartridge to the line-level signal that external amps or powered speakers would expect. It also reverses the RIAA equalization put on records to sound better- it boosts the bass an diminishes the treble compared to what's cut on the record itself (if it was pressed without equalization, the stylus would bounce around in the groove because of the bass, and the treble would be too faint to play back reliably).

u/kakanczu · 6 pointsr/cordcutters

$80 would do it: Logitech Harmony Smart Control with Smartphone App and Simple All In One Remote - Black

u/Feelsgood767 · 6 pointsr/shittyaskscience

You will need one of these cables

A little pricey but you will have the best AD4K experience.

u/0110010001100010 · 6 pointsr/networking

What, you don't want to pay $13k for an HDMI cable?!

u/bobby-t1 · 5 pointsr/PleX

I have this this harmony remote and hub and until your comment, didn't know it worked over bluetooth. Thanks!

Looking at the details page of the Shield TV (non-Pro 2017 model), and in the customer Q&A, a person says:

> I have used that with a Logitech harmony elite remote which uses a remote hub to control the shield tv via Bluetooth. Looks like i should be good to go!

u/xythian · 5 pointsr/ShieldAndroidTV

I'm just using the basic Logitech Harmony Smart Control.

Works like a charm and controls my TV, AVR, and Shield.

u/sharkamino · 5 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Logitech is r/PCSound.

r/BudgetAudiophile is for better bookshelf speakers.

>This subreddit is for the budget minded audiophile that wants to grow out of boomboxes, bluetooth speakers and PC branded audio solutions (Logitech).

Lowest budget are:

u/cr0ft · 5 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Ideally, if you're connecting a PC to anything that makes noise, use an optical Toslink. Those are not electrically conductive, which means the only thing that gets transferred across is the digital sound data. Ground loops become impossible.

This obviously requires that whatever you connect to (an amplifier, or powered speakers) have an optical in. Alternatively, you could go with something like this

Without an optical out, you might wind up needing one of these, too: or something along those lines.

This all does cost more than a ground loop isolator, but it also doesn't do serious damage to the quality of the audio. It's better to break the electrical connection between the units than to try to filter out the 50/60 Hz line noise.

u/eegras · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

The Antlion Modmic would fit this need really well.

Or are you looking for something like this?

u/applevinegar · 5 pointsr/audiophile

A pair of LSR305s and this cable.

u/hakobo · 5 pointsr/headphones

I bought these and put them on my m50s and now I can wear them forever. They do leak a tad more sound now, but nothing crazy.

u/sherm137 · 5 pointsr/ZReviews

They are solid, but just be aware, that Z only recommends those with different ear pads. It's an extra expense (only $20) but it might put you out of budget.


Also, you will want to eventually save up for an amp/dac combo unless you have a great motherboard. Most motherboards will be able to power the m40x, but you won't get the most out of them. A solid entry-level amp/dac is here:


Also, the Cloud Hyperx 2 are actually some decent headphones. I'm not sure you will be getting that much of an upgrade going to m40x. If it's an option, wait, save up $50 and buy the Sennheiser hd58x Jubilees on Massdrop. You seriously won't regret it and your mind will be blown.

u/obito07 · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/mustfix · 5 pointsr/buildapc

Doubtful, since desktop cases have so much more room compared to laptops or smartphones (where this is used), that it doesn't make economical sense to retool/redesign. Maybe some mITX cases?

You'll have better luck just getting a splitter.

u/grendelone · 5 pointsr/hometheater

> our HTR (Sony STR DN1030) does not have a true analog input that he can connect his phone to using a 3.5mm cable.

This is not correct. Your receiver has plenty of RCA analog inputs. A simple 3.5mm to RCA cable will connect the phone to one of the line inputs. You have at least two sets of RCA analog audio in's on the lower left (looking at the back).

$8 on Amazon or available at any Best Buy, Walmart, Target, etc.:

u/Wulmar · 5 pointsr/headphones

Check the link below:

AmazonBasics 3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter Cable - 8 Feet

It’s cheap and works well, if you don’t plan on using external DAC that cable should be all you need :)

Enjoy your Magni :)

u/pswii360i · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

You're going to need an amplifier to use them on your pc. I personally use a powered subwoofer that connects my speakers to my pc. You can find cheap amps on Amazon for like 20 bucks.

This one for example seems like it would work. Just plug your pc audio out into the audio input on the amp and connect the speakers via speaker wire to the terminals. I've used very similar devices with my bs22's and it worked great. You just may need an rca to 3.5mm adapter to connect your pc to the amp, like this one.

I'm bad at explaining things, if you have any more questions let me know!

u/kinoshitajona · 5 pointsr/PS4

On Amazon, search for "microphone splitter adapter" and find one that looks like this:

Then connect the headphone part to a set of speakers. (if your sound system accepts Red/White cables as input, you can buy a 3.5 mm stereo jack to Red/White cable converter at many different lengths.) Then connect your pin mic to the mic connector and connect both to the controller via the adapter.

As the audio from the TV and the headphones might be different, I'd recommend connecting the headphone part to a separate set of speakers.

I feel for your condition. I don't like headphones either, but I don't have some condition.

u/severianb · 5 pointsr/xboxone

Both will work, you just need to get one of these adapters if you don't already have one:

The surround sound (Windows Sonic for Headphones or Dolby Atmos for Headphones) will work on everything. No worries there. It's the mic monitoring (being able to hear yourself talk) that doesn't work with the original headphone adapter:

Mic monitoring DOES work on the newer Xbox One controllers that have a built in 3.5mm jack or the mini-keyboard attachment. I use the keyboard attachment on my old controller to get mic monitoring.

Here is the keyboard attachment I'm talking about:

u/ShakeItTilItPees · 5 pointsr/xboxone

That's the problem. Here's what you will need:

Notice that this one has four conductors and yours has three. Don't waste your time looking in stores because it's very rare that anybody has it. Unfortunately you're gonna have to wait for shipping. You can find the same adapter on Newegg and if you would prefer.

u/cjs911217 · 5 pointsr/headphones

You'll also need one of these. The splitter isn't going to work unless the bit that plugs into your controller is four pole (three black lines).

u/JollyGoodShow420 · 5 pointsr/xboxone

I use this to connect my Siberia v2 headset to the chat adapter and it works perfectly :)

u/-Quantumcross · 5 pointsr/AndroidQuestions

If the microphone has a standard output in addition to USB, you could always try something like this:

u/jimirigger · 5 pointsr/xboxone

It looks like it has 3.5mm mic and 3.5mm headset connectors. You'd need a 2x3-pole to 1x4-pole connector. I use this one from Amazon.

u/meltvideo · 5 pointsr/delusionalartists
u/DerJawsh · 5 pointsr/headphones

IIRC the HD598 uses a non-standard connector for the plug that goes into the headphones. It's actually not 3.5mm that plugs into the headphone but rather 2.5mm.

The HD 598SE (black version on Amazon) comes with a shorter cable that is 3.5mm without adapter if that interests you.

Otherwise, I believe there are unofficial "replacement cables" for the HD 598 that you can buy (I believe there are some official ones too but you have to scour the Sennheiser parts site) that are 2.5mm/3.5mm

u/PsykoDemun · 5 pointsr/technology

2.5mm is simply a size for the plug. You can do TRS (or TRRS) on a 2.5mm jack for balanced stereo audio.

As an example Sennheiser uses a 2.5mm end on their headphone cables to plug into the headphones themselves. Here's a replacement cable for Sennheiser headphones that is a 3.5mm male to 2.5mm male.

u/atirad · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

This cable is a great replacement for the stock, preference for shorter high quality cable for your desk to amp/dac.

u/Reanimations · 5 pointsr/buildapc

If you want a recommendation, I have the FiiO E10K DAC, and it's great. The bass boost switch on the front is a nice touch.

u/Brostradamus_ · 5 pointsr/buildapc

Then just get a good set of regular headphones + a DAC. Head to r/headphones and get a good recommendation at your price point + Buy this DAC. Sennheiser HD 598's are a very popular "budget" option.

audio technica m40x/m50x's are also very good.

u/jas0nb · 5 pointsr/battlestations

Are they 32/80/250 ohms? I'm guessing they're not 32 considering the amp in the back. What amp is that, also? Looks like this guy but it's hard to tell for sure.

u/beefqeef · 5 pointsr/WorldofTanks

If you're willing to spend a decent chunk of money on a sound card, don't. Get an external DAC- it does the same as a sound card but is further isolated from interference in your computer. Some also have built in volume controls and mute buttons.

I use a Scarlett Solo with audiotechnica M50X headphones.

This is a good small DAC.
FiiO E10K Headphone Amplifier and DAC

And this is one which I use.
Focusrite Scarlett Solo 2nd Gen 2 in 2 Out USB Audio Interface

Edit: It's not worth it unless you have a good quality headphone set. I would recommend the audiotechnica M40 or M50 headphones for very good quality at low prices compared to other brands.

u/SilknSkies · 5 pointsr/buildapc

Why not get an external DAC/AC like this?

u/kreimerd · 5 pointsr/cordcutters

Yeah you need a larger antenna. Those flat antennas have never worked for me. There's a lot of marketing hype on antennas, but it usually comes down to height and direction. I've got one of these on my roof and I went from spotty signals with 3-4 channels to around 40 channels. I live like 20 miles from the signals I'm picking up too. I ran coax to every room in the house with a tv, sending them all to the basement, where I connected them all together with a splitter and sent the one coax up the side of the house to the roof.

u/iwtwyad · 5 pointsr/321

WESH is the toughest to get, from my experience. I live near downtown Melbourne and here's what I did:

I have this antenna mounted to this pole and run into this amplifier, which then goes to all of my TVs. The pole must be placed as high as possible where the antenna can point towards the northwest.

I used this website to get the number of degrees the WESH tower is from my location, then used a standard compass to point the antenna directly at the WESH tower.

Not only do I get WESH, but I get every other OTA channel that I know of, and a whole bunch that I wish I didn't.

u/MostlyBullshitStory · 5 pointsr/VIDEOENGINEERING

These should still strip HDCP:


Been using them for years to get DirectTV box HDMI into older switchers.

u/cheald · 5 pointsr/Reaper

This is probably because of HDCP. You might be able to get it to work using an HDCP-compliant splitter like this one to strip the HDCP protections from the signal.

u/Howard_Campbell · 5 pointsr/Cooking

The food lab is the book. The blog is serious eats.

u/eloreb · 5 pointsr/xxfitness

I don't really have advice on your original post, but I used to be just like you when it came to cooking. Cooking for me consisted of throwing a piece of chicken on my George Foreman grill until it was burnt (no salmonella for me!) and eating raw vegetables because they required no cooking.

There is so, so SO much info out there on how to cook. If you love watching videos, look up videos on YouTube. If you love reading, invest in some cookbooks. If you have a friend who loves to cook and does it well, ask him/her for some basic lessons.

Aside from my boyfriend who loves to cook (thankfully), I've learned the majority of my cooking skills through some great cookbooks. The Whole30 book has so many great beginner tips and delicious, obviously healthy recipes; even when I'm not doing Whole30, I constantly refer to this book for recipes! If you're a science/chemistry person, The Food Lab is pretty amazing.

I think a lot of people get scared of cooking because YES it can totally be daunting and time-consuming and hard! But it doesn't have to be. You don't need to make gourmet meals for yourself every night; just figure out some flavor profiles you love and recipes that are easy.

u/kperkins1982 · 5 pointsr/Cooking

Kenji Lopez-Alt has perfected the perfect scambled eggs in the book The Food Lab

it is basically salting the eggs, waiting 5 minutes, then stirring as little as possible for a couple minutes and it makes the perfect fluffy scrambled eggs

u/OklaJosha · 5 pointsr/FoodPorn

He's not being pretentious, he actually knows his shit. This is the guy who wrote a #1 bestseller cooking book (New York Times & Amazon)

And was called a "cooking savant" by NPR

/r/seriouseats has a lot of his recipes.

u/mochajava916 · 5 pointsr/Cooking

The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

u/gregmo7 · 5 pointsr/Cooking

If you love to read, then I completely back up those who recommended J Kenji Lopez-Alt's "The Food Lab". He also spends some time on /r/seriouseats, which I think is really great. Food Lab is great because it explains not only HOW to make a recipe, but the WHY a recipe works the way that it does, and allows you to expand your cooking skills. His is not the only book that does this, but I've read Salt Fat Acid Heat and The Science of Cooking and a good portion of the tome that is Modernist Cuisine, but Kenji's style of writing is exceptionally approachable.

But my actual suggestion to someone who wants to go from never cooking to cooking healthy meals at home is to watch the recipes on Food Wishes, because he shows you what each step of the recipe is supposed to look like, and his food blog is not filled with flowery stories, but helpful tips.

Another great online resource that I used when I started cooking about 5 years ago was The Kitchn. They offer up basic technique videos on how to cook proteins and vegetables that are really simple to follow for beginners.

My advice to you is this: don't feel like you need to dive immediately into recipes. First learn how to season and cook a chicken breast or steak consistently, and roast the different kinds of vegetables. Then just start jumping into recipes that you want to try. And don't be afraid to ask questions here :)

u/Spongebert · 5 pointsr/de

Das dazugehörige Buch ist aber wirklich das Geld wert. Da gehts nicht so sehr um Rezepte, als um Techniken die man ohne Probleme übernehmen kann um Sachen die man eventuell seit Jahren auf ne bestimmte Weise macht, noch ein wenig zu verbessern.

u/Jeade-en · 5 pointsr/running

I had Kenji's cookbook in my hands last week and reluctantly put it back down. It's not running's just geeky food science related. I'm a fan of Kenji and the whole group at Serious Eats

u/Cdresden · 5 pointsr/KitchenConfidential

Lately, I've very much been enjoying Kenji's The Food Lab. I think it's worth the (ebook) price just for the chapter on fried foods.

I also keep coming back to The Flavor Bible, which has lists of how to combine ingredients for different cuisines.

If you want a valuable collection of recipes and have $50 to spend, get Cook's Illustrated's The New Best Recipe. It's supplanted The Joy of Cooking on my shelf.

u/hix3r · 5 pointsr/Destiny

EDIT: Corrected diagram based on suggestions below.

Made your solution plan into a diagram for clear graphical representation. The cables needed that Destiny probably doesn't have/didn't order yet:

u/kaeaene · 5 pointsr/vinyl

You'll need an amplifier, since those speakers are not powered.

This is a cheap amplifier, if all you want is for your setup to work.

And one of these 3.5mm to RCA cables to connect your turntable to the amp.

And some speaker wire to connect the amp to your speakers.

edit: listen to rpbtz's response. The sidebar has everything you need to know at this stage.

u/BeardedAlbatross · 5 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Alright, the problem here is your TV has no variable or line level RCA outputs. I'm going to offer a couple of options:

  1. An optical DAC with a remote line level controller and powered monitors. DAC, Remote volume control, Really good sounding powered monitors. Wait til they go down to about $240 for the pair or buy them on massdrop now, you have 9 hours to decide. Totals to $300

  2. Same setup as above, but will switch out the JBLs for something cheaper and totals to about $200. Wait til the Micca PB42X are in stock at amazon. They run $120. If you can swing for the JBLs, do it though.

  3. The best option in my opinion, would be to get a cheap 5.1 receiver with an optical input. You can pair this with any pair of passive speaker you want, you can purchase a used receiver from craigs or ebay, you can add a center channel at a later date, and more importantly, you can add a subwoofer when your budget allows and have proper bass management with high and low pass filters and eq.
u/totallywontstabyou · 5 pointsr/audiophile

Here's a cheaper option for the OP if he isn't using anything fancy.

u/flecom · 5 pointsr/headphones

as far as cheap dacs this thing sounds pretty good to me, way better than it's $20 price tag

I use one at work so if it get's stolen I won't be heart-broken

u/forhelvede · 5 pointsr/techsupport

Does the the tv have phono/RCA on the back? If yes you should be able to use something like this to get sound to the docking station and still get sound from the TV speakers.

u/BangsNaughtyBits · 5 pointsr/podcasts

A full setup that will record four local mics, max, or two local mics and a Skype caller. A choice of mics.

Behringer UMC404HD interface for $100 (needs a USB cable I think)

Behringer HA400 headphone amp for $25

Needs two TRS 1/4" stereo cables, one for the headphone amp and one for Skype. $10

Behringer XM1800S three pack of good enough mics for $40

or a slightly better Behringer XM8500 at $20 each

or a very nice Blue enCORE 100 at $60

A couple 9-foot XLR cables for $12 or vary as you see fit

On-Stage, desk stand for $13 (lots of options)

You need some RCA to 1/4" TS cables. Technically two though there are reasons up to four and this six pack is cheap at $8. Wish they were shorter.

or you can get by with one of these.

and my personal favorite, the UCA202 for $30

This gives you full Skype access to the other rig for Two local mics.


u/ThickAsABrickJT · 5 pointsr/audioengineering

If you're talking about something like the Behringer HA400, then there should be minimal (if any) effect on the sound when it comes to your monitors.

That said, your headphones might be another story. A lot of cheap headphone amplifiers have a resistor in between the amplifier chip and the headphone jack. Because headphones are low impedance (16Ω-60Ω) and this impedance changes with frequency, this can cause the frequency response to be different from what it should be. Your monitors have high-impedance inputs that won't be affected by this resistor.

Really, the only thing you can do (aside from opening up the headphone amp, if you're familiar with electrical engineering) is to do a listening test.

u/--0_-_0-- · 5 pointsr/nashville

I pulled the dish down and mounted one of these on it's bracket.. I get every channel around.

u/sivartk · 5 pointsr/cordcutters

If your channels are all in the same direction just get a directional antenna as it will do better pulling in stations from further in that direction than an omni-directional antenna. Something like this RCA Yagi antenna.

I personally prefer -- uh trust -- something that resembles an old school antenna, but maybe that is just my bias and how well the antenna in my attic works that is an "old school" (pre-HDTV era) antenna.

u/king_of_the_ayleids · 5 pointsr/audio

Game engines use their own 3d stereo sound processing so virtual 7.1 isn't really worth much. I would recommend getting an external sound card (DAC/AMP). I would recommend this or this

You could also peak around /r/headphones. There's a ton of discussion there about these things. There's no upper limit to quality or what you can spend on Digital to Analog Converters and Amplifiers.

You could also just search amazon for sound cards, but if you're only using it for headphones make sure you're not wasting money on cards that have speaker outputs. The one's I recommended aren't cheap, but you will appreciate the quality.

u/ShotgunBFFL · 5 pointsr/headphones
u/TrackieDaks · 5 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Yep, just got myself some Brainwavz memory foam pads:
Brainwavz Replacement Memory Foam Earpads

Much nicer for my big head.

u/Qubix1 · 5 pointsr/headphones

With the stock ATH-m50 pads, do they rest on your ears? The stock pads are rather small and round, not well designed for people with larger or sensitive ears. I replaced them with Brainwavz HM5

The pad is much more comfortable than the stock pad as it is more oval than round and my ears actually fit inside of the pad instead of touching it. The pleather is more supple and the memory foam more conforming to the side of my head. It makes a better seal and is more isolating.

u/Feilong4 · 5 pointsr/headphones

I had a pair and they look very nice! The earcups are very striking in appearance. Kinda regret selling them.

The drivers are dynamic and are 20mm in diameter. According to a source, they were released in 1976 and ended production around 1982-83. They originally retailed for 6,000 yen or about 55 USD. I measured the impedance and they were around 50-60 ohms - I forgot the exact number.

Believe it or not, these are semi-open - there are some vents along the circumference of the brown backplate. Here's a picture of the location of the vents. If you open them up and tilt them at the right angle, you can see there are openings/vents.

Here's how the drivers look like. Surprisingly heavy drivers - weighs a bit like a D battery. The weight is possibly due to the thick magnets.

In one of the pictures I linked, I used Brainwavz earpads on mine when I had them. With the Brainwavz pads, not too amazing but warm and pleasant. With the original pads, I found them to be very honky and bass light. Might be worth a shot if you may be interested. Oh, and the original earpads are just adhered on - if you wanted to open them up or try the pads I linked, you can peel them right off though do it slowly so that the fabric underneath don't rip. The original earpads can be re-adhered with some glue-stick.

Awesome find btw! You don't see those around very often!

u/VelcroSnake · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Nice. Something I did with my Pok3r was buy a set of the white keycaps.

Also, something you might want to look at for the Clouds is a pair of Brainwavz Pads.

u/LBriar · 5 pointsr/audioengineering

An 1/8" (laptop/iPad) to RCA (KRK unbalanced in) cable. Don't try to go stuffing an unbalanced out into the 1/4"/XLR ins.

Optionally, a pair of HS8s.

u/mr_oysterhead92 · 5 pointsr/livesound

One of these cables in the Red & White jacks on Channel 7-8 will work

u/verifitting · 5 pointsr/headphones

they say "this year". If you can wait, you could wait for sure yeah :) you could just get the affordable Fiio E10k for now. It has line out which you can connect to Atomörerverstärker-schwarz/dp/B00LP3AMC2

A good enough temporary solution for sure, there's plenty of people on /r/headphones still using one!

u/xodakahn · 5 pointsr/headphones

The HD598 were my first 'real' headphones. I did like them. But I felt they needed more. These have been my favorite auxiliary equipment. Before you completely give up on the HD598s give a DAC/AMP or even just an AMP at try. (unless you are using one already)

u/c_galaxy · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I had the same problem. Best way to get ride of this static would be to remove your analog audio from the inside of your computer.

I would get an external DAC/AMP or DAC/AMP combo. I use the FiiO e10k. $75 on Amazon It's a pretty good little DAC/Amp.

u/Starionn · 4 pointsr/headphones

Do you have problems with any other headphones?

I haven't used the M40X's myself, but "headphones not getting loud enough" is generally one of the few, reliable, markers that you would benefit from upgrading to an amp.

The JDS Labs Atom is pretty much the gold standard for cost/performance at $100. You would probably want a dac too, or at least someway of switching from speakers to the amp without having to reach around your computer to the back to swap.

The FiiO E10K works pretty well, and is a dac/amp combo at $75 if you want an affordable all-in-one.

u/UKFAN3108 · 4 pointsr/headphones

I have a modest mid/hi fi collection going with my Shiit stack, THX-00, HD6xx, and HD598 (used with a mod mic as a headset for gaming). I told myself I was at my end game for a few years as I had a nice variation, but couldn't pass on a planar headphone for 300. The M1060 should be a nice addition to my collection.

The M1060 has a 50ohm impedance, so it isn't entirely possible that these don't need a robust DAC/AMP to drive them, but I'm sure a modest DAC/AMP would improve the sound quality of the headphones over your Macbook. I sometimes use my Macbook to drive my 6XX's (300ohm impedance) at work and it does alright, but the 6XX's do sound a bit better on my home setup.

I think a $100-200 investment in a DAC/AMP is worth while for a $300 headphone. Fiio E10k or the Shiit Fulla 2 would be good entry level options in the 100 or less catagory with numerous options in the 100-200 catagory. I'm sure you can get another 100 recommendations on other DAC/AMP combos, but I do feel you will notice an improvement over any phone or laptop.

u/prms · 4 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I want to point out that you don't necessarily need a RCA out. A standard 1/8" is fine as you can use a 1/8" to rca cable. My previous setup was Fiio e10k as a DAC into Topping TP22 into those micca speakers.

u/scalablecory · 4 pointsr/HeadphoneAdvice

Properly powered, the 770-80 can deliver very deep, textured, powerful bass when the music calls for it. So, something is very wrong here :), but, it's an easy fix.

Low volume and poor bass response are the first indicators that headphones are being underpowered. You need an amp. Might I suggest a FiiO E10K? It has excellent quality and is cheap.

u/cudenlynx · 4 pointsr/LifeProTips

If you want the best HD signal on ALL channels I would recommend

The Rabbit Ear and other ones like the one mentioned by /u/barefootbandit8 are ok for getting a few channels to come in clear. However, you will find that you are constantly trying to adjust the antenna depending on what station you are watching.

By installing the RCA ANT751 in your attic, you will get more than 90% of your channels to come in crystal clear and you will never need to adjust your "rabbit ears". Take the time and money to install a long term solution. You and your family will be happy, trust me.

u/mariolovespeach · 4 pointsr/houston

I would try a better antenna. I have used this in my attic for over 5 years. Make sure to use a quality coax RG6 quad shielded cable (something like this). Use AntennaWeb to help you aim your antenna.

With this I've been able to pick up CBS in College Station from Katy

u/Tyler-Swift · 4 pointsr/grandrapids

Do you have issues with WXMI (FOX) and/or WOOD (NBC)? Those two are fairly close to the WWMT tower so it would be odd if you are experiencing problems with one but not the others. Check with and see if your antenna is pointed in the right direction, or something.

Joining two antennas could cause issues as the "static" from one might combine with the perfectly good signal from the other. They do make filters for this, but they are now hard to find in stock. For example Channel Master CM 0578 JOIN-TENNA. These will pass a certain channel from one antenna, ch 8 (which is ch 3.x, WWMT; Slightly confusing), and everthing else from another antenna.

I use a small yagi in my attic, but I'm not in a wooded area and have a good line of sight.

u/beezerhale · 4 pointsr/cordcutters


I had great success with this antenna. My stations (all 28 available) are spread all around me. This antenna picked them all up, with the farthest away being GPB (PBS) 43 miles.

u/Reviews2Go · 4 pointsr/vita
  1. You need an HDMI Splitter that supports HDMI 1.3 to bypass the encryption. Like this

    2 - Nope. You can't stream the PSTV to the Vita.

    3 - Sorta. The PSTV's PS4 Link doesn't have the second screen option. It only uses Remote Play.
u/sleepy_roger · 4 pointsr/vita

Second one is what I have (or very similar I think they are all made by the same supplier) and it works perfectly, for the PS4 as well.

u/SpiteFireH20 · 4 pointsr/Twitch

The one I use is this. Amazon link so you can compare to your eBay ones. It doesn't necessarily say that it removes HDCP, but It's the one everyone recommends. The reviews do say that some didn't work, so it's usually a small chance you'll get an upgraded model that doesn't strip the HDCP.

u/fullmetaljackass · 4 pointsr/StallmanWasRight

PROTIP: Many cheap Chinese HDMI splitters strip HDCP. Its usually an unadvertised feature, so check the reviews to make sure it works. Here's one I've used before.

u/parkerlreed · 4 pointsr/archlinux

If it's new enough and it only has a single jack it's probably a TRRS plug, meaning headphones and mic on the same connector. Simple adapter has that covered.

I've personally never heard of retasking a normal TRS headphone only port.

u/desentizised · 4 pointsr/howto

Actually your first image shows an adapter you would need on airplanes where they have those weird double plugs (whoever came up with those must've had a bit too much of something, amirite?).

What OP probably needs is this. This thing enables you to turn a single plug headset into a dual-plug headset so you can plug in the headphone-jack and microphone-jack separately like you would on most computers.

The opposite would be this which would enable you to use a regular pc-headset with 2 plugs to plug it into your single headset jack on your smartphone or macbook etc.

u/strategicdeceiver · 4 pointsr/audiophile
u/DPSnacks · 4 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

TRS cable out of your headphone jack -> split to two TS cables -> inputs of the 4 track cassette recorder

u/philoneous · 4 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

If you don't get the CCA, would a cheap TOSLINK DAC work? Something like

for $20?

u/TimeTomorrow · 4 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Imho, a DAC is the least of your worries at this price point. Use your onboard DAC and spend the money on speakers and amplification.

If you aren't satisfied, add the dac later when more funds become available.

$200 for amplified 2.0 IDM setup is still kinda tight, but it's a lot more to work with than if you spend half to a third of that budget on a dac.

How are you on space?

alternatively you could get a starter dac if your pc output is terrible.

I've personally used this dac and found it quite acceptable with a nice system costing about 5 times what you are looking at. Truth be told, I'm now using a minidsp 2x4 hd and i doubt I could apples to apples tell the difference on just the dac functionality.

u/painess · 4 pointsr/audiophile

I bought one of these for the same purpose. There are some cheaper ones but I went with this one because I know the brand. It sounds great to me.

u/frogspa · 4 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

The FiiO Taishan is a good cheap DAC.

You could even power it from your TV, if it has a USB socket.

u/sinembarg0 · 4 pointsr/functionalprint

maybe try getting a simpler harmony remote?

I recently got that one for my mom. it has no screen and looks like just another remote. maybe that'd help your wife get over her dislike since it doesn't look nearly as complicated as a 950.

Also, as another fix, you could just set the activity so the power button for the cable box is on the screen, or is one of the buttons on the remote that you don't need for something else. Then you just go to that activity, and if the power state is wrong, it's a single button press to fix.

u/IamTheJman · 4 pointsr/homeautomation

The Logitech Harmony remote and hub are back down to $70. It was this price last week.

u/matthewdavis · 4 pointsr/PleX

I was a longtime Harmony One user. And I decided to try the cheaper Logitech Harmony Smart Control (after the One finally kicked the bucket). And I love it. Give it a look and see if itll suite your needs.

Edit: link

u/vprviper · 4 pointsr/CCW

I guess I shouldn't have let my mind go in that direction. There is also this HDMI cable on amazon priced to sell at $13,499.75 to consider:

u/sjaskowiak · 4 pointsr/talesfromtechsupport

> AudioQuest

I really like their US$14,000 HDMI cable from amazon. :)

u/kamintar · 4 pointsr/buildapcsales

I would recommend you just get a small DAC with an optical input and RCA outputs. If you don't need anything but a stereo, digital-analog audio converter then it is very overkill. Fiio has something really small I was using at work, and it's perfect for this situation. Just run the optical cable from your motherboard.

Using an external DAC with optical will provide the least noise of all options (internal sound card, external DAC through USB, or optical) because no conversion happens within the PC. This also allows you a little more freedom of placement because you can get a longer optical cable and place the DAC where you need, closer to your speakers.

u/eepytjuh · 4 pointsr/PS4
u/Grazsrootz · 4 pointsr/PS4

Here's Exactly what you are looking for. LINK
there are more inexpensive options, but this one is highly rated and comes with the optical cable

And then one of these to convert the Output (RCA) to 3.5mm

I'm going to be honest with you. By the time you buy this you would probably be better off buying an inexpensive surround souind with an optical input. Sony also makes wireless headphones that are compatible with the PS3 and PS4
I have this one and they work and sound awesome

Elite Version

u/Glordit · 4 pointsr/PS4

Not unless you have a "headphone out" on your screen or you could use a DAC:
That DAC would convert Optical to RCA then you could use a normal speaker set.

u/Sonicator · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Yes, and far more expensive ones as well

Thats just an example.

u/psycholis · 4 pointsr/audiophile

"A lot better "ones" and more "zeros" in this cable!

I especially like the "ones", they are more "one" than what you normally would see in other cables. Very cheap cables tend to run out of zeros after you have been using them for too loud audio or video with a lot of blue in them. Not this cable, it has an abundance of zeros in reserve. It will keep feeding those zeros to your TV or Receiver like it's no tomorrow!

Very good cable WITH FREE SHIPPING! "

Pretty much any review on this. Though I guess they may not be in the spirit of this thread as I doubt anyone would take this seriously.

u/cbartlett · 4 pointsr/CrappyDesign

The reviews are just how one might predict, lampooning:

u/Mecatronico · 4 pointsr/oculus

First, find the right cable...

u/Route66_LANparty · 4 pointsr/buildapcsales

I bought these a few years back. Turned me into a huge Sennheiser fan boy. The comfort and durability alone are notable. Add-in that the sound quality brings you into the realm of audiophile-grade and you have a huge reason to buy whenever they go on sale.

I have the 558 in my laptop bag for gaming on the go, a pair of HD518 for use with the Vive, and the Massdrop HD6xx on my main PC setup.

I've been wanting to grab another set for work, was hoping to grab the 598 and "complete the set." But this is tempting.


I use the following replacement cables with mine:

u/deexmikey · 4 pointsr/headphones

Give this cable a try.

u/rjwwrx · 4 pointsr/headphones

I'm really enjoying the new Metallica album. The mastering/production is quite good. Death Magnetic borders on unlistenable with my 598's so I appreciate that they didn't make that atrocious mistake again.

Happy to be able to enjoy another Metallica album. Now if I can just stop wanting another pair of headphones...

Edit to include a link to the replacement senn cable for those curious.

1.2m Replacement Audio upgrade Cable For Sennheiser HD598 HD558 HD518 Headphones

u/ilikeshoes23 · 4 pointsr/buildapcsales

I got these a few weeks ago and the cable it comes with is pretty long...

Got these to replace the original cable, they work great.

u/Gallifrasian · 4 pointsr/GooglePixel

I use this. It works for both my Sennheisers and M50x. Although, you'll probably have the same issue as it's only very slightly smaller.

I would recommend an adapter like this. Just leave it on the end of your cable all the time and you won't notice it.

u/TogShark · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Hey there! A few bits of advice from someone who's had M50x's for a while now.

  • The ear pads that they come with are uncomfortable after extended use. I suggest purchasing these.

  • If you haven't got one already, I highly recommend picking yourself up a DAC. Maybe this one.

  • They should have come with three cables. One straight short, one straight long and one coiled cable. Use the coiled cable, because it's extremely durable. You can't accidentally tug it at an awkward angle and potentially damage something because it's like a damn spring.

  • You can also purchase additional cables, even braided ones if that's your preference.

  • Don't be a scrub and carry it around in the leather bag it comes with. Buy a hard case.
u/floood · 4 pointsr/xboxone

can i use one of these to use with this headset with the adapter for chat and game sound?

u/M8asonmiller · 4 pointsr/Advice

There are literally thousands of products on Walmart's shelves. You can't really expect minimum wage employees to have intimate knowlege of everything in the store. More than likely he just wanted to get you moving.

And jeez, how much did you spend on the thing? Here's one for six dollars.

u/loldazey · 4 pointsr/xboxone

Exactly, really need to watch out for the splitters. Even though this is the Canadian link, this is basically the one I'm using. Hope this helps OP.

u/omeganon · 4 pointsr/xboxone

The port expects a 4 pin connector (combined headset and mic), but you have two 3-pin connectors. You need to combine them with something like this -

The Q&A says it works with the console.

u/blanketstatement · 4 pointsr/PS4

It will work with TRS/TRS to TRRS adapter like this one.

u/t3chn0v1k1ng · 4 pointsr/PS3

use the deafult old school playstation out. take those red and white RCA cabes and run them into an Adapter don't worry about the yellow video one, just leave it out.

then plug your computer speakers into that adapter.
in Audio Settings you can chose to make the audio come out of the RCA connection and the video through hdmi.

I did this when I only had a computer monitor, works great. also allows for headphones.

u/vsod99 · 4 pointsr/pcgaming

You should probably be fine with your motherboard's built in audio, but if you're looking to get a little clearer low ends, this is a pretty good one for the price. Alternatively, you could purchase a DAC, which would function as an external sound card, and many have built in amplification as well.

u/darkdoppelganger · 4 pointsr/livesound

A distribution amp is definitely the way to go - if you want to stay economical, you probably need something like this.

u/DarkStarPDX · 4 pointsr/livesound

Hmm... Headphone amplifier maybe? (or something like this)?

u/bostonwhaler · 4 pointsr/savannah

PBS is the most difficult channel to get in the Savannah area. I sometimes will get it with my ghetto "rabbit ears ziptied to the roof" setup here in midtown. PBS is 32 miles away (vs. 16 or less for most others) which is out of the range of the Leaf.

Get yourself a TVFool report:

A good economy antenna is the RCA/Audiovox ANT751. If positioned properly (WNW), you should have no issues pulling in PBS.

Edit - /u/thebassdude is the local DIY antenna guru as well. Give him a shout, and/or check out some of the "build your own antenna" tutorials online. You don't need much more than some old wire coat hangers and a scrap piece of wood.

u/High_Life_Pony · 4 pointsr/Cooking

If you are a new cook, I really recommend The Food Lab. Sure, it has recipes, but it also tells you how things work and why instead of just “cook at 350 for 1 hour.”

The intro section has a great starter guide for tools and equipment as well. Basically, here’s a tool that you absolutely need. Cheap version, pros and cons, then high end version. Or here’s a tool that’s really handy if you like to whatever a lot, but if you aren’t cooking that much, you can get by without it.

Highly recommended. I bought most of my tools from these recommendations, and they’ve been great!

u/tiglathpilesar · 4 pointsr/Wetshaving

I put down 1491, not because I wasn't enjoying it, but because my BFF gave me The Food Lab as an early birthday present. I didn't think you could write a food book that reads like a novel, but I've been swept up in it since last Saturday. Anybody else read this?

u/colemth · 4 pointsr/sousvide

The Food Lab by Kenji Alt-Lopez is a must own cookbook in general

u/Skodbil · 4 pointsr/Denmark

Nå folkens, der er snart gået et år siden Skodbil sidst mæskede sig i fødselsdagskage, og det betyder at successen skal gentages. Fødselsdagsgaver er for lang tid siden gået fra at være Lego og våben, til at være sokker og bøger.

Derfor skal der nu nogle gode kogebøger på listen. Jeg er ikke så meget på udkig efter opskriftsbøger, men mere ude i at ville have kogebøger som jeg rent faktisk kan lære noget af. Jeg har allerede følgende på listen, men hvis DU kender en helt vildt god bog jeg bør læse, så sig til.


The Food Lab, Kenji Lopez

Chocolate at Home

Paul Bocuse Institut Gastronomique

The Professional Chef

The Flavour Bible

Mastering Cheese

Der er med vilje ingen vinbøger på listen, for det gør jeg mig ikke specielt meget i - endnu.

u/CPOx · 4 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I use an ultra basic setup to connect my LSR305 to my desktop PC which does not have a dedicated sound card (motherboard audio jack only).

I plug a 3.5 mm to stereo RCA female into the motherboard's audio jack and then use these RCA male to 1/4" TS male cables to connect to the speakers.

u/checkerdamic · 4 pointsr/vinyl

I've set up numerous jenky make-it-work turntable-to-soundcard lines to sample so I'll try to give you a few options...

(1) Any decent turntable without a built in preamp (look at beginner turntable guide) and this could be new or used --> into a preamp (this is necessary for this setup) --> run RCA-to-1/4 lines into the back of the Apollo Twin (line 1 and line 2), this will keep your left and right channels separately. You need to make sure you can record into both at the same time. You could buy adaptors for your RCA line or a specific RCA-to-1/4 cable. Note: I'm giving you links to cheap ones.

  • With this option you could probably buy a decent used turntable for about $100 and a decent preamp for $50-100.

    (2) Buy a turntable with a built in preamp and do the same set up without a dedicated preamp. So, it would go turntable with preamp on running RCA-to-1/4 cable straight into back of your soundcard. Best options for a new one would be the Audiotechnica LP120 which is about $300 or the Stanton T92 for about $250-300. I personally think the stanton is slightly better on its stats but not by much and the stanton doesn't come with a hardcover, which kind of sucks. However, the stock cartridge on the stanton (Stanton V500) is a DJ cartridge that can take more damage and you can stop it, start it, and back cue and not worry about damaging the stylus or your records. The stock cart of the LP120 (AT95E) is a much better listening cart but you cannot back cue anything or start or stop on the fly without damaging the stylus.

    (3) Buy a turntable with a USB connection and plug in straight into your computer or the USB port on your soundcard (Edit: just realized not all of the Apollo Twin versions have USB inputs, so this might not be feasible, unless you plug straight into your computer). You could pick up Audiotechnica LP120USB which is about $300 or the Stanton T92 for about $250-300. USB port on turntables do not give the best sound quality however and you would probably better to go with one of the other options.

    Overall, I think option 1 would be the cheapest route and be a good option if you eventually getting into vinyl as a medium for listening. Also, these three options are specially tailored to your setup and there are other ways to do this. The best quality for vinyl to digital is to have a nice soundcard on a desktop that has dedicated RCA inputs and then you don't have to use adaptors.
u/mookietaco3000 · 4 pointsr/BillBurr

Surely my friend.

For those wondering what you'll need to get this setup, here's the other items I chose to purchase:

Table: Audio Technia 60 non blue tooth edition

Micca MB42 Bookshelf Speakers With 4-Inch Carbon Fiber Woofer and Silk Dome Tweeter (Black, Pair)

Speaker wire:
AmazonBasics 16-Gauge Speaker Wire - 100 Feet

Seeduck Lepy lp 2020a Class-D Hi-Fi Audio Mini Amplifier with Power Supply Lepy Amplifier LP2020A

It was about $230 all together from amazon.

u/Armsc · 4 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

You're going to need the following.

  1. Amplifier - no amp no sound. You can use something like a Lepy mini amp $25 if you're going for a desktop set.

  2. Speaker wire $10 - You can use speaker wire to connect the speaker and the amp as the Dayton has high level inputs. Run the speaker wire from the amp to the Dayton then from the Dayton to the speakers.

  3. 3.5mm to RCA $10 - You'll need this to hook the phone to the amp.
u/Tardsmat · 4 pointsr/oblivion

That is static noise from your PC. It happens because you propably have an onboard sound card. Your other PC parts interfere with it and disrupt your sound. The only way to fix this is to get an external sound card. Something like this. I had the same Problem after i got New speakers.

u/rchawk0 · 4 pointsr/Guitar

These are earpads i use for my m50x's they are really comfortable.
Brainwavz Replacement Memory Foam Earpads - Suitable For Many Other Large Over The Ear Headphones - AKG, HifiMan, ATH, Philips, Fostex (Black)

u/Jimmy0517 · 3 pointsr/Zeos

I finally got my X2's and wowow for gaming these are a must. Thank you for the recommend and videos. Wanted to follow up woth a questing regarding an AMP for my PC. The PC can drive the headphones with my onboard but for music via itunes or movies I can't get the level in volume i like which is generally loud. I know you mad an AMP video, but I was wondering if i get a USB amp like a AMP
There wouldn't be a problem using an AMP with a headset that also is using a mic? Would the microphone function still work if I have the headset plugged into an AMP?

u/miraculous- · 3 pointsr/diysound

I believe this satisfies your criteria.

This was my first dac/amp.

I still keep it for travel.
Will drive up to 250Ω.
Sounds fantastic too. Would recommend.

u/Itsthejoker · 3 pointsr/cscareerquestions

I can't wear earbuds for more than a few hours at a time, so I have Koss Porta Pros. Unbelievable sound in a very portable package, and I have them paired with a Fiio E10K that filters out any line weirdness. I used to have a shitty work laptop that had awful grounding, so the amp was super useful. Now I just use it because it sounds good :)

u/ggibby · 3 pointsr/headphones

Welcome the the Grado club - three actual Grados have passed through my collection, and three hybrids as well.
For tinkering and modding, there's nothing better, IMO.

I found several reasonable DAC/amp units that improved the ride, as it were.
My early favorite being the Fiio E10K - compact, USB-powered, not hard on the budget.
If you can leave it on the desk, the Massdrop O2 + SDAC DAC/Amp is a winner,
but beware of Massdrop - their temptation fu is strong. :-)

To do both DAC and DAP, lurk eBay for an iBasso DX90 - I never go anywhere without mine.

Agreed that they really shine with 'classic' production - late 60s to mid 80s analog path,
but also considerate modern artists like Spoon and Andrew Duhon,
maybe Isis and Animals as Leaders on the heavier side.

The folks at have a couple opinions about the Brooklyn Sound, too.

u/japaul32 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I would recommend a pair of HD 598's and a headphone amp. Or the AKG k701/q701.

I own the HD558, and Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro, and I use them in conjuction with a Schiit Magni. My favourite for comfort and overall audio quality is the HD558. If I want some more bass in my music I switch to the DT770 Pro.

Take a look at this

Edit: I'm assuming you're using onboard audio. If so, take a look at a amp/dac combo like this

Edit2: You guys in the UK get some great prices. Here's the DT990 Pro. Definitely want to get a headphone amp with this guy.

u/explosivo563 · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Depends on your price range. Check out fiio dacs for entry level. Schiit modi and magni for mid/higher level. There are many options for dacs and amp/dac combos. I use the e10k which is an entry level amp/dac.

u/ZeM3D · 3 pointsr/headphones

Pads are easy to replace. These should fit and not alter the sound too much.

u/ItsFoxBit · 3 pointsr/HyperX
u/ZeosPantera · 3 pointsr/headphones

Don't forget if you want these to FEEL good you have to spend twice as much.. As you need the $19.50 Brainwavz pads to throw on them.

u/poonedundies · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

I have these and I love them. The sound quality is pretty decent. No issues hearing anything or with my friends hearing me. In audio lag either. The one thing I will recommend is changing the ear pad. The new pads help change the sound and provide a ton more comfort.

u/noteandcolor · 3 pointsr/xboxone

I've owned several over this generation. Turtle Beach XO Seven, Microsoft Stereo Headset, Astro A40, Sennheiser Game One, HyperX Cloud II, Plantronics RIG 800LX SE, HyperX Cloud Alpha, and beyerdynamic MMX 300. I keep coming back to the Cloud Alpha. $100, and it's the perfect blend of sound quality, comfort, and simple controls. I went a little further and added $30 Brainwavz HM5 earpads. Can't recommend it enough.

An audiophile's review of the Cloud Alpha:

u/qfews · 3 pointsr/headphones

Here are the main parts:

Bluetooth receiver -

3.5 jack -

side button -

You could probably find cheaper options. I just bought a lot because there wasn't really any tutorials out there on doing this. Other stuff you would need are a soldering iron, a dremel, and some wires, Also, please get better earcups if you haven't already -

Here are the internals:

u/NessInOnett · 3 pointsr/headphones

I have the m50x with the Brainwavz HM5 pads. The difference in comfort is night and day. The default pads on the m50x hurt like hell after about an hour of wear for me. The HM5 pads are little heavenly pillows. Sadly, the bass really suffers.. and I had to ramp it up a bit in software to compensate. Using mine with a Fiio E10k, even with bass boost enabled, it isn't enough to balance things out back to stock.

u/thisisnotjr · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

For those that have big ear and head. Here are the the [Brainwavz Earpads] ( that should work well with these.

From personal experience, the padding's are a must for any pair of headphones. They're just so comfy.

Edit: Check the additional promotion underneath the price. There should be an additional 15% when you purchase one or more of the padding.

u/GusIsBoosted · 3 pointsr/headphones

The only real answer:

its a bit of a pain to put them on properly.
But I did it to my older set of HD598s and it brought them back to life.

Definitely recommend these ear pads for the 598.

u/pirate_starbridge · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

Have tried both - the fuzzy versions of these are so much more comfortable IMO - subjective of course, but with the fuzz you don't get ever sweaty, they breathe.

u/Jiffe_The_Pleb_King · 3 pointsr/LivestreamFail

They are actually amazing if you replace the pads with these:

u/rempred · 3 pointsr/headphones

The cable is a mile long, you could walk across the room before it yanked. If you're playing at your desk (PC?) then you'll be fine, the cable won't wear or fray. These headphones are amazing, I love them. In about 8 months your ear pads will start to feel like they suck, that's because the foam has broken down. I just got these and my 700Xs are brand new again.

u/nphil · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

I have the M40x which I think is pretty similar. How do these go on? Do you take off the old pads first or do these go on top of the ones already on there?

Was thinking about buying these velour pads, been on my wishlist for 24 dollars forever.

u/bobguyman · 3 pointsr/headphones

On amazon it's from's amazon store front.

u/Elnrik · 3 pointsr/headphones

Uhhh... Maybe.

I'd go with something like this...

u/olbaze · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

The Kraken Pro has a 3.5mm combojack, usually found in cellphones and laptops. You'll need a splitter for your PC. Something like this.

u/Tacanacy · 3 pointsr/PS4

You can use an audio USB adapter. If the headset cable terminates in one plug, get a Y-splitter or another adapter with a single TRRS jack. If the cable isn't long, then just use an aux extension cable or a USB extension cable.

u/-A_V- · 3 pointsr/xboxone

HyperX Cloud Stinger

Steel Series Flux

And this cable

I have both and use them pretty interchangeably. Don't let the price $25 fool you on the Flux. It is an excellent headset (

u/iritegood · 3 pointsr/DealsReddit

The description is wrong. The PS4 uses a 4pole 3.5mm connector. To use the headset with a PC just get a splitter

u/Cocoapebble755 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Is this what you are looking for?

Maeline 3.5mm Female to 2 Male Gold Plated Headphone Mic Audio Y Splitter Flat Cable

u/sinlightened · 3 pointsr/sony

Yeah.. there are adapters to turn the single aux on your headphones into 2 separate mic/headphone connectors.

You need something like this

u/neomancr · 3 pointsr/GalaxyS7

You actually have one of the best android devices for that second to the LG v20. It supports Bluetooth and USB microphones. Otherwise get a splitter like this

Go to the galaxy apps store and get the stock voice recorder it works great. It'll record with dynamic gain so no matter how loud it still won't distort. You can scream into it and it'll sound fine. It's amazing.

There are also great Samsung pro audio solutions too that'll let you do professional 24 bit recordings with live processing

u/Emerald_Flame · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Should work with something like this:

That splits the single integrated 4 pole 3.5mm from the headphone/mic into 2 separate 3 pole 3.5mm. One for the headphones, the other for the mic. Then you just have to plug those two into their respective ports on the Mobo.

u/NewPSP · 3 pointsr/headphones

What your headset has is a 4 pole TRRS jack, which means that it combines both headphone output and microphone input in one wire. The way to have both elements recognised by your computer is to get a 4-pole TRRS to 2x 3-pole TRS adaptor so that you can plug the headphone output and mic input into separate jacks.

Something like this would work:

u/substitutemyown · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Guessing the headset only has a single jack? If so you'll need an adapter like this (4 pole to 2x3 pole) to split it into mic+headphones.

u/IceprincessOCN · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

My setup is quite simple

u/Kaligraphic · 3 pointsr/audioengineering

You have a balanced XLR input and it's only playing the difference between the left and right channels. You're playing a track that has the instruments panned left and right, and the vocals relatively centered.

First, what you want is something more along the lines of this 1/8" to 1/4" breakout cable. If you have a free stereo channel, plug both 1/4" plugs into there, otherwise just plug it into two adjacent mono channels, pan them all the way left and right, and adjust them together.

Second, you should know that most mixers can supply 48V on their XLR inputs. Condenser microphones need that, dynamic mics don't care, but laptop audio ports can fry. 1/4" jacks are safe, though, so always prefer them above XLR for computer/phone/iPod type input.

u/AkwardImplants · 3 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

It will be easy to find out. Plug your headphones into the female end. Plug one of the two male plugs into your keyboard and play something. If you only hear sound in one ear, you're good to go.

If you want to go dual 1/4" male into a single stereo male mini plug, you can buy that cable here.

Keep in mind that depending of the quality of your keyboard's internal grounding circuitry, you could get some hum and/or phase issues, but probably shouldn't have any problems.

u/Ruairi101 · 3 pointsr/audio

Yamaha HS monitors have 1/4inch TRS and XLR inputs (no RCA as far as I know), so if you wanted to use them with a desktop without any/minimal extra hardware, you could get a 3.5mm to dual 1/4 inch cable (like this); 3.5mm goes into your computer's headphone jack, 1/4 inches go into the monitors.

Someone else can probably give better advice on whether or not to buy a DAC/interface. I use HS7s and I plug them into a Scarlett 2i2, which has 1/4 inch monitor outs. There's also a 1/4 inch headphone jack with separate volume knobs, so I can switch between monitors and headphones without much fuss. I'm pretty happy with that setup, but a 2i2 might be overkill just for that alone (I use it for recording from XLR mics as well, that's its main purpose).

If you're using a USB headset, you can keep them plugged in for both of the above approaches and switch audio devices via your OS when you need them.

u/HoustonWHOO · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Gotcha, so something like this then?

Thanks for the quick reply!

u/tyrannosaurus_wrex · 3 pointsr/audiophile

I think there is a tech support thought is that your 3.5mm to dual 3.5mm is splitting the stereo signal into two separate stereo signals (like for plugging in two sets of headphones for two people to listen at the same time). You want something that splits the stereo signal into separate left and right to go into your speakers, or just a cable like this.

u/salnajjar · 3 pointsr/karaoke

You're going to need a mixer, to take the audio from the microphones and the karaoke backing track and then put out the final version (also some people sing louder than others so you'll need to be able to adjust individual volumes).
This means you'll also need an amplifier, as most TV's don't have an audio in connection.
This means you'll also need speakers.

You could look at getting some decent amplified speakers, you only need one if you're doing this in a home.

Lastly, look into something like Karafun initially as the software. You can take out a 48 hour subscription for about £5 and then you have access to all their songs. Just read about no internet at farm, not even wireless data that you can tether via mobile phone?

So to recap, you need to purchase:

u/KnockKnockComeIn · 3 pointsr/Logic_Studio

To send/receive MIDI you need MIDI to USB interface.

To receive audio signal you need dual 1/4 TS cable to 1/8” TRS cable.

Option1: Money is not an issue:

OP you’re best bet would be a audio interface as it allows you to connect your keyboard plus so much more.

Something like this:

And midi cables and TS cables

Option 2: Money is an issue/not ready to for a audio interface:

MIDI to USB built into MIDI cable:

1/4 TS to 1/8 TRS:

u/raistlin65 · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

If you like to pump your bass, then I recommend the JBL LSR 305 for $89 each.

The LSR305 are studio monitors that compete well in overall SQ with the best powered speakers <$500. IMO, they have better midbass and deeper bass extension than many other speakers their size. For example their lower end rated response is 43hz for their 5" drivers vs. 60hz for those Edifiers with the smaller 4" drivers. I think realistically, they have solid 50hz performance (and likely the Edifiers would be more like 70hz).

Tons of professional reviews for those speakers as they have been popular for years.

You would need to also purchase a special cable to plug it into your computer:

u/_mutelight_ · 3 pointsr/hometheater

Do you have a headphone jack on your TV? If so you could get something like this and run it from that into the Aux on that speaker.

Then for power, it looks like a standard power connector which you could use something like this.

Obviously since it is a single speaker, you won't get any L/R separation.

u/rsilverblood · 3 pointsr/ZReviews

Click the 2nd picture. It uses XLR or TRS (1/4" mono) connectors. You can use a 3.5mm to 2x 6.3mm mono (read: 1/4") Y splitter.

Translated: You need a cable that takes your 3.5mm stereo and makes it into two 1/4" mono.

(You should have a 3.5mm output from your motherboard's audio. But hopefully you'll buy a dedicated DAC if you want better audio.)

That kind of cable. You can use 1/4" mono audio extension cables if you've got longer cable runs.

NOTE: Your link is for ONE JBL LSR305. You'll need two if you plan to run it in stereo. Just sayin'

u/Trick5ter · 3 pointsr/diyaudio

You just need this -

Connect it to both speakers and the jack goes to pc and configure your soundcard to output stereo instead of 5.1 (I am not sure about this part since ive never used 5.1)

Also your speakers will work in single ended mode which is ok if the cables are not too long.

u/criose · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Yes, using adapters like this or this you can connect them to unbalanced sources using 3.5mm TRS or RCA respectively.

u/CrusherW9 · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Purchasing them individually will be fine. Each one should come with a power cable. Using them as a pair, each one will need to be plugged into power, and you'll need to connect each one to a signal. The speakers operate completely independently of each other. So to plug it into a normal 3.5mm source, a 3.5mm to 1/4" TS (mono) cable is what you want. XLR should only be used when your source is balanced, which a 3.5mm port from a computer motherboard or phone for instance is not. I used this exact cable with my BX5 D2s for a while until I got an audio interface and went XLR.

u/Syradil · 3 pointsr/audiophile

My Christmas gifts have complicated my computer setup and I am wondering if a Schiit Uber stack is the answer.

I got myself a pair of JBL LSR305's and was gifted some Sennheiser 598's.

Currently using this cable to connect the LSR305's to my computer with no easy way to use the headphones or connect my ps3.

The way I picture it working is the computer connecting to the Schiit Modi 2 Uber via USB and the ps3 via optical, with the output running to the amp.

The amp is where my questions are. With the 305's connected to the Magni 2 Uber, will the volume knob control the speaker volume when no headphones are connected? Also, will the output automatically switch over to headphones when I plug them in to the Magni?

u/e60deluxe · 3 pointsr/hometheater

since you need to get it tonight, i would check at a music equipment store, like Guitar Center, or similar.

u/Costco1L · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Those included cords will not cover all of your needs since the Scarlett Solo does not have TRS or XLR output. You could actually just plug this into your computer's headphone jack (if the DAC is good). What's the point of the Scarlet interface other than a volume control knob? It just seems like a lot to spend at your budget if that's its main use.

u/warinthestars · 3 pointsr/audio


Depending on your mixer, all you need is this:

plug into headphone jack, plug into 1/4 inputs on mixer.

u/jabob513 · 3 pointsr/PCSound

I personally recommend the Klipsch ProMedia as the best sub-$200 option. Sound is really solid and it's definitely got the bass. Plugging your computer in is straightforward and I believe the newest version has bluetooth as well. Best Buy used to have it as a demo with their computer speakers, not sure if they do anymore.

A better option might be studio monitors like the JBL LSR305/LSR30X which are also an insane deal. You'd need to get a bluetooth adapter and you'd need to worry about inputs (many studio monitors take 1/4" or XLR, which would require janky adapters (probably won't sound great out of a headphhone out without something like this) or a dac/audio interface like this or this. The JBL approach will get you a better sound (more accurate to the music, more balanced sound, magical amazing beautiful and perfect imaging) but will probably be a bit above what you'd like to spend. Most of that stuff can also be bought used if you are okay with that.

I would try and stretch or save up a bit for the monitors. They're a pretty solid step up from most all "computer speakers," and the JBLs in particular are one of the best bang-for-buck deals in audio that I've seen.

Best of luck, and feel free to shoot me a PM with more questions or what you decide to do!

u/Einsteins_coffee_mug · 3 pointsr/pocketoperators


these are my favorite for hand held PO noodling since they keep the cable neat cooked up like that. Takes up less room than a straight 3’ cable would.

And these guys are great for a nice solid desktop setup.

Depending on how you record or mix the output, you may want to pickup a 3.5mm to 1/4” breakout cable to deal with any stereo/balancing issues you might encounter.

u/idontlikevegetables · 3 pointsr/Guitar

Those loudspeaker jacks on the left side are for attaching another cabinet (speakers without an amp) to your amp. That "internal off" switch means you can drive a separate cabinet (treating your amp as a head) or you can run both the speakers in the combo and external speakers.

Which adapter are you using from your computer currently? The normal input jack on an amp (usually) takes a 1/4" TS (mono) cable in, so your adapter might be a 3.5mm TRS (stereo) male -> 1/4" TRS female cable.

What you really want is the stereo signal from your computer's mini jack to be split into two 1/4" male jacks.

If you have the adapter as I described above, you can use the cable you listed to go into the aux in on the amp. That's what I would do. Alternatively, if you have a different adapter (like 3.5" male-> 1/4" male, which wouldn't plug into the one you listed), you could use this cable instead:

Keep in mind that your amp cabinet has two 12" speakers and there's no tweeter to handle high frequencies. You're going to get a low-range response and the drums (particularly the hi-hat) are going to sound muffled no matter what.

u/DrunkieMunkie · 3 pointsr/Twitch

Hola! I set all this up last year so it’s a bit rusty!

This is a shopping list for an Xbox One mixer setup similar to mine and you may need some help filling in a few gaps and the wiring!

So the idea is to build a setup to be able to use an awesome mic to talk to the stream as well as party chat ‘at the same time’ (which I prefer over using a headset) but to also be able to hear game/chat/PC audio though a single pair of headphones and control their volume levels in one place with ease.

I don't need sound going out to my PC as the Cap card is getting that from the Console via HDMI.
Streaming Xbox to PC then the WORLD!

Xbox – hdmi into a cap card in the PC Avermedia live gamer hd
This grabs the game audio and that’s that bit done, stream using OBS and boom!

Here's is my shopping list for party chat:

Headset Buddy (Real name, I didn’t make that up!)

Xbox Chat Thing:

Cable from Buddy to Mixer:

Cable from Mixer to Buddy!

Xbox Mixer(s)

Astro Mixamp (I use)

Earforce DSS (an option!)

Ground Loop things:

Although I have used these ones because I didn’t see the ones above!

Mic wise any XLR mic is fine!

Here is a link to a image i found that kinda helps piece it all together!

Here is a quick vid of my setup, happy to help if i can!

Heres is my latest Xbox One vid with party chat but it picks up the Public Lobby if they speak!


u/emorello · 3 pointsr/synthesizers

I have the JX-8P and Juno106, which were pretty similar to the JX-3p and the stereo out is for their chorus effect (slight movement between the channels). In the originals, if you didn't want stereo, you could just plug in a 1/4" into the left and it would work just fine, chorus and all, then you can plug into whatever guitar pedals. I guess you could do the same by getting a Stereo Breakout, 3.5 mm TRS to Dual 1/4 in TS.

u/Lincolnton · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

If you don't mind swapping the 3.5mm plug to whatever device you are using something like this will work

u/MonsterEgg · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

If your phone has a regular headphone jack, all you need is this type of cable. Rip the red and black 1/4 plugs apart as much as you need, plug the red into the right speaker and the black into the left, and the other end into your phone.

u/Impressive_Username · 3 pointsr/MSI_Gaming

Its 70, but worth every penny. I used it with my AKG k712 pros for about a year before upgrading to a soundblaster g6.

u/imanAholebutimfunny · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales
u/Plyphon · 3 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

These are highly regarded by /r/headphones as a industry standard in budget headphone amping for any listening types (home, studio, etc)

u/shadyinternets · 3 pointsr/audiophile

like justanotherdickweed mentioned, just get yourself a little USB/DAC and that should help.

the one i linked is a bit more than his link, but is more powerful/better in my opinion.

ive had a similar Fiio dac/amp for about 3 years, use it almost 7 hours a day 5 days a week at work and it has been worth every penny. they also have more portable versions like the e07 if you care to take it with you at any point.

u/kare_kano · 3 pointsr/androidapps

If you want to do WiFi streaming, install $3.50 BubbleUPnP on the phone and use the Windows 10 built-in DLNA streaming. If you're on Ubuntu you can install pulseaudio-dlna and use it as output from sound settings. I'm sure there's something for Mac as well.

For USB, what you're looking for is called a USB DAC. If you're really strapped for cash and don't have fancy tastes in sound quality, or quality headphones, then one of these $5-7 puppies will take care of it. Quality is touch and go, some may be DOA and need replacing, but they'll get the job done. You can also go for a $20 Signstek (PCM2704), but I wouldn't recommend more expensive ones without knowing what headphones you're using and what you want from them.

If you do, I can recommend the $40 FiiO K1, $65 SMSL SD793-II or $75 FiiO E10K, but if you do that you should also look into putting $50-200 into decent headphones and you're probably not looking for that.

Whatever you do DO NOT get USB headphones. Decent ones are expensive, cheap ones are absolute crap. A $5 DAC like above and a $25 pair of Sennheiser HD202 will be better and can be replaced separately or even taken apart and repaired if they break.

u/CAvalanche11 · 3 pointsr/battlestations

Am a good friend, helped him pick out about 90% of this stuff.

Headphones are Sennheiser HD 598 special edition (the amazon exclusove ones), but those are discontinued, newest version are the HD 599

Mic is Blue Snowball USB

He also uses a FiiO e10k DAC for headphones also

u/spicedpumpkins · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

> is a sound card worth it in today's age?


Most games don't support Creative's proprietary sound like they used to in the old days.

Most modern mobo's have the basics to get you buy.

If you absolutely think you would benefit from external sound then at least get a portable DAC that you can use for other things/take with you.

My goto suggestion is usually Fiio E17K ALPEN 2 USB DAC Headphone Amplifier which when plugged in via USB will be recognized as a windows sound card, provides excellent sound for the price, has an electronic 3 band EQ and you have the benefit of unplugging it and taking it with you to power your cans on the go.

If you're stuck at 75 bucks then FiiO E10K USB DAC and Headphone Amplifier

Also, Creative software to this very day SUCKS. It is very rarely updated and sometimes does not play nice with when you try to use proprietary creative sound profiles within specific games.

I forgot what the specific profile was for "enhanced enemy footstep" detection but it muffled other game sounds that were really needed in Overwatch and in TF2.

Bottom line. Pass on this shit. There are better alternatives in the same price range.

u/Teerhand · 3 pointsr/audio

Hey mate, i hope this isn´t too late for some advice.


So first and foremost, congrats on a nice pair of cans. your motherboard has a dedicated audio solution, which shouldn´t be to bad in the first place, but to improve upon that i would recommend the fiio 10k

it´s a pretty nice headphone amp/dac combo, which competes with a lot of pricier solutions, and for listening to music and gaming, you won´t find anything better under 200 bucks.


while the guy at the music store is technically correct, the sterling is of course a headphone amp as well, but as soon as he heard the words gaming and pc, he should have known this ain´t what you´re looking return it, thats the wrong kind of need a digital analogue converter, that has an amp integrated.

u/TR00Z3D · 3 pointsr/headphones

Get these, now.

The SHP9500 are open, neutral, sharp and precise.

They are very, very comfortable and if need be, you can replace the pads.

Just search the subreddit and you will see people drooling about these cans.

They do not NEED amplification but greatly benefit from it. I recommend the FiiO E10k:

P.S. They also have a removable cable, which is always nice to see.

Edit: While they are not wireless, they are the best bang-for-the-buck cans, at this very time in the 0 - 100 range. And for the time being, wireless is just a gimmick.

u/ppooiiuuyyttrreewwqq · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

Or if you're more on a budget, this will do but the quality will reflect the price. I'd go with he first one if at all possible.

u/TrueJudoka · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I bought the Fiio E10k a little while back. I love it, definite upgrade from the onboard audio. It's not too expensive and it suits it's purpose.

I don't have any experience with them, but I've seen a lot of Schiit set ups. There's a Schiit DAC on Amazon US right now for about $85. Definitely check out /r/audiophile and /r/headphones as well, utilise the resources they provide and you'll more than likely find what you're looking for.

u/ttelbarto · 3 pointsr/buildapcsalesuk

I feel like you could just run it from your motherboard but I'm not 100%. I bought one of these because I read the sound quality would be better and I didn't want to waste the headphones.

u/Erosis · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

Yeah, I have a fancy motherboard too (MSI Z170 Gaming M7) and it doesn't do it justice, but you're right. The DAC is usually the last thing you get to finish your setup and untrained ears might not notice anything. Headphone > Amp > DAC. If you get any hissing or electronic interference, then you especially might want to invest. Entry level DACs and Amps go for a minimum of $50 each and I would at minimum recommend this DAC/Amp combo.
I should also mention that headphones can have high impedance and you would need an amp to provide the gain necessary to reach your desired volumes. However, all of the headphones I've listed (and the 700X) have a low impedance and do not need the amp for volume. I regard anything lower than 40 ohms as low impedance.

Regarding virtualization, I typically avoid sound enhancements and spatial sound on Windows and let the applications speak for themselves. You're correct that the quality will depend on the game, but overall you don't have to worry with modern titles. The only game that I actually enjoy virtualization with is in Overwatch where Blizzard integrated Dolby Atmos. It lowers the quality of the sound, but does make spatial cues more discernible.

u/kronbison · 3 pointsr/headphones

This may be due to your on-board sound. Before spending, I would test out the headphones on a different PC/source. Make sure it isn't just the headphones themselves.

Then, when you are ready to buy, get an external dac/amp, basically an external sound card. Check out the Micca Origen($100), Fiio E10k($76), Monoprice Dac/Amp($80), and SMSL SD793-II($63).

u/Pat-Roner · 3 pointsr/audiophile

you could get a fiio e10k.

u/auralucario2 · 3 pointsr/headphones

If you want something inexpensive but powerful, look no further than the FiiO E10K. Especially since you have the 250 ohm edition, a decent amp is pretty much necessary.

As an aside, the DT990 are the complete opposite of flat. They are very v-shaped, with boosted bass and treble. Especially treble.

u/ShiftyAsylum · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I'm guessing the output from this (16-bit, 44.1k) isn't as good as your on-board sound. If you're serious about getting a nice pair of headphones, I would at least look into something like this or this. There's no point in spending cash on a good pair of cans when you're going to be putting a less than optimal signal through them.

>Edit: Updated SMSL link.

>Edit 2: Third option.

u/KalenXI · 3 pointsr/HamRadio

In my experience unless you live close to the TV stations those "black rectangle" antennas are at best mediocre for UHF stations and terrible for VHF stations. Do you have an attic you could put an antenna in? If so you could try getting something more directional like this design. If you don't have the space for a larger antenna I'd recommend looking for something that at least has a traditional "rabbit ears" element that you can extend to pick up the VHF channels better.

u/MSUBREW · 3 pointsr/cordcutters

I spent $45 or so for the RCA attic/outdoor antenna and it works great and I get all of the channels you mentioned with perfect quality. Here is the antenna.

u/lafreniereluc · 3 pointsr/ottawa

> ?

Hey Antonio, figured you may find my post interesting. I used to live around the Riverside/Hurdman bus station, with a set of VHF/UHF cheap antenna, I used to get most channels since I was up high in an apartment. 5 years ago, I moved to the burbs of Barrhaven (townhome). My tv was in the basement, so I interconnected coax cables up to my second story and had that same antenna there and barely got anything.

I proceeded to invest in a better antenna. After some research, I settled on this one:

It's a little large, but for myself, I was able to install inside my attic so it's completely out of sight. Pointed it at the Gatineau hills (the source of the signals) and programmed my tv.

I get a VERY SOLID set of channels that work through all weather.

They include channels: 4, 6, 9, 11, 13, 14, 24, 30, 40, 42, 43, 60, 65.

u/OreoRants · 3 pointsr/PleX

The Winegard Pre-Amp is what made the biggest difference for me.
I use the RCA Yagi for my antenna, and it has been solid.
This site can help you aim and know what you should get pretty easily as well.

Good Luck!

u/rob132 · 3 pointsr/NYGiants

Get one of these:

And one of these:

If you live in an area that's too far from the antenna, you can get 2-14 from your cable provider for $10 per month (that's what I do. I got all the channels with my antenna expect for FOX)

Sign up for the DVR service for $5 per month, and you're all set.

Oh, I forgot the hardest part.

During the giants game, you have to cut yourself off from the rest of the world. No cell phones, no social media. A glimpse of the score ruins everything.

u/4-string · 3 pointsr/houston

I've used this antenna with great results. Installed in attic with all channels clear. I'm on the edge of third ward.

u/BattleSausage · 3 pointsr/Pensacola

Here is it mounted to my fence, and this is the amazon link. It can be pole mounted, but what I would do is grab a 4x4x8' and put it in the ground 3 feet, then mount it to that. I am sure your landlord won't have a problem with that.

u/ryanhollister · 3 pointsr/Austin

I had directv previously. went up to the roof, took the dish off. put this guy ( on the mast and reused the wiring directv conveniently dropped throughout my house. works perfectly, get all the channels on all the tvs without an amplifier. I live in cedar park.

u/ZippyTheChicken · 3 pointsr/ota

The specs on that Omni Antenna

VHF Gain 4.5dBUHF Gain 4.3dB

Problem you have is Fox

It is stronger from Toledo but your best group of stations is from Detroit.

Since its a weak antenna and they suggest an ampthe situation with that is... it is always best to go with the largest antenna that you can because more signal is better than boost.

All your stations for now are UHF except Fox Detroit which is VHF 7

So I am only considering your Good and Fair signals because the Poor signals are weak and if you try to get them you would need an amplifier and you might boost your stronger signals too much by the time you could get the really weak ones.. I do use amps and strong antennas in my setup .. over amping can be an issue.. it can shutdown your tuner and you get no signals.

So that Omni antenna at 4db of gain is kinda weak .. better or best antennas are from 8 to 16 db of gain every 3.5db of increase in gain is doubling .. so going from 4 to 8 is like 125% stronger not 100%

If I was you I would get at minimum a VHF High antenna and point it at toledo where the weaker signals are coming from and then your signals from Detroit that are strong should come in anyway... if that doesn't work well for you then point it at detroit and you should get good reception

right now you can get one of these for $29 used acceptable from Amazon.. probably in perfect condition but you can always return it .... Or pay $10 more for a new one .. its up to you .. New might be worth it buy I bought my antennas from amazon warehouse and they were in great condition.



If you are supplying signal to more than one tv you might want a distribution amp

u/N3t_runn3r · 3 pointsr/PleX

My HDHR Prime works near perfectly with a good attic mounted antenna.( My Plex DVR is pretty good but I'd say still a work in progress. Many people do not realize that the right antenna mounted high is EVERYTHING.

u/BiffBiffkenson · 3 pointsr/cordcutters

About 14 miles out all in the same direction but ABC, PBS and CW are high vhf channels that an indoor antenna may have issues with.

I use this and have a similar situation in relation to the closest tower. I went from a paper clip (nothing) to rabbit ears (had to keep adjusting them, PITA) to putting the linked antenna in the attic. I get about 55 channels now. My attic is 45 ft above ground.

If I had ONLY wanted uhf channels I'd have been fine with some sort of indoor antenna but for the occasional sports - NFL games, College football and basketball an antenna with vhf elements was necessary for CBS in my area (also about 14 miles away and LOS). Not a huge sports fan anymore but its nice to have the option.

I was going to try a winegard freevision which I could have mounted in a window but I went straight to a bigger antenna in the attic. You can get the freevision at Home Depot and if its not right for you return it.

u/Jon_G · 3 pointsr/nashville

I live 11 miles outside of Nashville, and had problems picking up anything besides NBC and PBS with a set-top antenna. Upgraded to a setup like you are looking at; outdoor antenna that fit in my attic ( ) and added a preamp ( )

I pointed it towards the ABC/CBS/FOX towers and crossed my fingers. Fortunately, I was picking up all the major networks, PBS, and a bunch of independent stations. somewhere around 45 stations/substations total. Works great, couldn't be happier.

The problem you may is that the broadcast towers are on the far side of Nashville from you. You may have to go with a large outdoor pole-mounted antenna to pick up anything.

Not sure if my setup is good enough to work in Murfreesboro. You could order it from amazon, hook it up without mounting anything to test it, and if it doesn't work, return to amazon.

u/vanillaskin · 3 pointsr/Boxing

absolutely! it would be impossible without one. i use this one.

u/hypermog · 3 pointsr/DirecTV

Could be a problem with the HDCP handshake. You could try running it through an HDMI splitter like this which will give the directv box a consistent HDCP handshake.

u/ManicComputer · 3 pointsr/PS3

I use an Elgato HD60. Your going to need an HDMI 1x2 splitter to remove the HDCP like this one as well.

u/theastropath · 3 pointsr/Twitch

I don't know if there are (m)any capture cards that ignore HDCP, but you can easily strip HDCP instead using a splitter, such as this ViewHD one

u/Brawli55 · 3 pointsr/Twitch
u/donpedrox · 3 pointsr/letsplay

Don't listen to these other people telling you it wont work. It will, its just hit and miss. the splitter you bought is not one that is known to scramble the HDCP signal. This one had yeilded better results if you can I say return the one you bought and try the viewHD one. what you've got to do is connect one output to ElgatoHD60 and one to your tv. so a flow chart would be like:

PS3->HDMI Splitter Input

HDMI Splitter Output 1-> TV

HDMI Splitter Output 2 -> Elgato HD60

This should be enough to scrable the HDCP signal but like I said it is hit and miss.

Edit: I've re read your post it sounds like you are only using one output. for the splitter to work you must use both outputs. I suggest you try my flowchart with your current splitter before returning and purchasing another one. To make it a but more clear, you will need a total of THREE (3)
HDMI cables for the splitter to work.

u/eric5949 · 3 pointsr/pcgaming
u/Kudzero · 3 pointsr/Piracy

I use the "ViewHD" HDMI splitter. I was into game capture stuff on PS3 and literally everything that comes out of the PS3 HDMI is HDCP protected.
Here's an Amazon link

Also, I would highly recommend the Elgato Game Capture HD60 Pro, the video latency so low you can game while viewing the capture software on a pc monitor instead of having a second tv/monitor to view the live gaming video and a pc monitor to view/record from a game capture device, if that makes sense.

u/Sports-Nerd · 3 pointsr/movies

I had the same problem with my TV, ordered this and now it works great.

u/bigbigspoon · 3 pointsr/PleX

What was happening? This sounds like it could be a HDCP issue. You can bypass most issues with one of these if anyone was wondering. Apple devices cause tons of these issues in conference rooms, especially when splitting signals. Good to know you saved the day!

u/ZeroShift · 3 pointsr/linux

I ordered this one a few months ago, works like a charm!

u/uematsufreak · 3 pointsr/Twitch

The issue with capturing video from your PS3 through HDMI is the HDCP in the signal. Certain splitters happen to also strip the HDCP from the signal, making it a-ok to be captured, so yes, you'd want a splitter for this and not a switcher. (A splitter takes one signal and outputs it to multiple while a switcher takes multiple signals and allows you to choose which one is passed through to a single cable.)

This is the one I use for that purpose:

u/Airsh · 3 pointsr/fireemblem

There are ways around the HDCP. I use [this] ( with my Elgato HD and it works great!

u/jimtsurugi · 3 pointsr/fireTV

FireTV (I think every version that exists these days) requires HDCP shortly after boot. I don't think they can be used at all with a display that doesn't support HDCP.

Assuming that this is the cause of your problem, my recommendation would be to buy something to sit between the FireTV and SCART adapter that will strip HDCP. I've heard rumor that this device will do it, but have not yet confirmed.

u/Stingray88 · 3 pointsr/applehelp

You can try using an "HDCP stripper" such as this. Essentially it's a device that will report back to your AppleTV as HDCP compatible, but the signal it sends out to your TV/monitor will lack HDCP altogether. It's not marketed as such, but that's what most people buy them for.

u/Frutes · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Why don't you just get one of these?

u/_31415_ · 3 pointsr/PS4

I just use a pair of over-the-ear headphones that I really like along with a Zalman mic and it works fine. Put them together with this and pop it right into the controller like a dedicated headset. Haven't had issues yet, and I can easily swap between open-backed headphones and closed-back headphones.

u/Kid_Xbox · 3 pointsr/xboxone

I'm very dumb with these things but shouldn't you be using it with something like this?

u/kmshadoze · 3 pointsr/xboxone

I would get a headset / adapter personally. I think you can get a much better deal. I got the Steelseries Siberia v2 with this spliter cable for the 2 3.5mm jacks, and the sound quality is AMAZING. For under $100 (headset, adapter, cable) these bad boys are well worth it. I even checked out the XO 4 and 7's as well as other various TB headsets (at gamestop) and imo the sound quality was not nearly as good. Not to mention having gamed for years I haev had a lot of freaking headsets in the past, these are sooooo comfortable you wont realize they are on (I fell asleep with them on last night listening to a movie and fiancee had to take them off me lol). They self adjust to fit your head (but not toooo snug and tight), the mic pops back into the earcup when dont need it, and the ear cups are HUGE, my ears are completely covered, it really dampers outside noise, with them on (not even listening to music) I can barely hear the person speaking thats next to me

u/Animate_XOR · 3 pointsr/bestof

Companies will advertise that their HDMI cables produce a "Clearer Picture" and such when that is physically not possible, as the signal is digital and not easily degraded by noise. (Seriously you would probably have to run the thing through a microwave, and even you have more things to worry about, like it catching on fire)

They also charge, $50, $100, and in one hilarious case $10,000 for cables that will fare no better than a $2 cable off monoprice.

The $10k one if you're curious:

u/erix84 · 3 pointsr/geek

Are you insinuating that I may have overspent when I bought my $14000 HDMI cable?

u/paganisrock · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/22travis · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Here's a $13,499.75 HDMI cable

u/PlaidDragon · 3 pointsr/audiophile

A couple things:

I highly recommend the HD 598s. I've used them for over a year now and I still love them like the day I got them. Everything sounds good on them and they are super comfy - you could wear them for 24 straight hours. I got this replacement cable for them and It's very high-quality and well worth the $16

All that being said, I would not really recommend using them in public. Firstly, while I love the the tan and brown look, they will look kind of goofy in public since they aren't really your "normal" headphone colors (unless, or course, you get the ones in black). Aside from aesthetics, there is not really a good storage solution (I think there's a case you can get for them, but it's really bulky), so they might get broken if you put them in your backpack and aren't careful with it. Finally, they are open-back. You will be able to hear everything around you, and everything around you will be able to hear you. If I'm without speakers and don't want to wear headphones, I'll actually just set them on the desk and turn them up a bit and they double pretty well as makeshift speakers.

Anyway, they're really best for home use (I use them for gaming, music, and everything in between).

u/Damieok · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

Your welcome, unfortunately the only affordable replacement cables come from China, so the shipping time is long.

The only US replacement cables I've seen are overpriced and hyped up for audiophiles.

The seller is on Amazon as well and has some variants with phone mics built in.

Edit: Fixed Link.

u/10GuyIsDrunk · 3 pointsr/Vive

You want this.

u/kjack9 · 3 pointsr/Vive

I got this one for use with my HD558s. I'm then running a 30 ft long headphone extension (15ft from computer to link box, 15 ft for Vive cable) back to a Behringer headphone amp and then a DAC. I also have other 15 ft extensions (DisplayPort, USB, power) from the link box back to my PC.

The end result? 30 ft of Vive leash, headphone cable is cable-wrapped back to a proper headphone amp and DAC. No plugging/unplugging, and good sound quality to boot.

Granted, take everything I just said above with the understanding that I don't have a Vive yet, and it might work great...or not!

u/fightinchunk · 3 pointsr/headphones

Most of the comments here are correct in regards to silver/copper with all else being equal. But these cables increased the max volume I was able to reach with my phone because of the lack of an inline mic, which adds enough resistance where I was able to notice a VOLUME difference(NOT SOUND QUALITY, that stayed the same once volume matched). The HD598cs cable comes with an inline mic that adds resistance and confirmed that the hd598cs cable added the most resistance out of the other 2.5mm - 3.5mm cable options I had at my disposal(hd598 cable, hd598cs cable, akg k545, 3 audio technica cables from m50x). The regular 598 cable, all 3 m50x cables, and the aftermarket cable akg k545 cable(all of which didn't have inline mics) all reached significantly louder volumes that the cables that had inline mics.

Keep in mind that this experiment was performed with a phone, which has a combined mic/headphone jack. When a TRRS jack with inline mic is inserted into the phone's headphone/mic combined port, this was the only time I noticed the differential in volume. When I tried performing the same experiment on my desktop's headphone jack, which has a separate mic jack, there was no noticable volume difference between the cables with inline mics and without them. Performing the same experiment with all my laptops(combined single mic/headphone port) produced the same results with my phone.

edit: I also remember reading a couple of posts here about the button being all fucked up, where some redditors were experiencing left/right issues after unknowingly damaging the multifunction button on the wire. If you feel like you're not getting the proper volume, get these cables if you didn't use the inline mic much.

u/ogre_pet_monkey · 3 pointsr/cableadvice

I have no idea how you did not find this, but here goes:

  1. google: sennheiser 558 cable
  2. first hit 'accessories' >

    you can directly order from sennheiser us or look for part:
    542192 or the shorter cable without part-id on the website.

    second hit is amazon, with a 3rd party cable:

    .. and the list goes on

    edit: the smaler cable has article number: 505638
u/foodwrap · 3 pointsr/headphones

I got these a few weeks ago and it's been fantastic so far, really nice build quality and shipping was quite a bit faster than expected which was another plus.

u/OurEyesArentReal · 3 pointsr/Vive

> My assumption is that closed headphones adds more presence since it isolates you more from the real world.

This is true. But with closed headphones you get less sound stage and it feels more like you're wearing headphones than it feels like sounds are happening around you. Open headphones allow sounds to feel like there is some space between your ear and where the sounds is coming from. It's kind of a balancing act.

I'm going to be using my Sennheiser HD 558 for personal use. They're the most comfortable thing I put on everyday. I could probably wear them 24/7 and not notice them. They just kind of melt into your head and onto your ears... and they sounds great for the price.

I did buy a shorter cable and plan on ziptieing the Vive cables so I get a snugger fit without more cable flopping around. The cable that comes with Senn HD5XX headsets is at least 8 feet long. Great for at your desk, not great to be dragging around behind you in VR.

u/afish_insea · 3 pointsr/headphones

Relatively inexpensive, good cable. Not silver or anything super fancy, but it's built well and is braided

u/abarrelofmankeys · 3 pointsr/PSVR


No problem, if for some reason you want to go with the senns considering I can give you a first hand review that they sound great, are pretty durable (I only say pretty because I take good care of stuff and am not hard on them, but I've had no problems) and are comfy, this is the cord I bought

The long one has it's uses, it's nice for plugging into a pedal and playing guitar at night or plugging into a pc, but it's impractical for most day to day and portable use.

EDIT: Apparently that's where headphones plug in half way down the cable (buds are above the move remotes), so it won't be as big of a problem as I thought, and a short one might actually be a problem. Ugh, so many things to consider.

u/xmagusx · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

> FiiO E10K

Not saying it's not, but why would you say it's worth 15 bucks more than this one?

u/njules · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I don't know much about DACs but I have seen this one and this one recommended multiple times.

They are a bit pricey compared the one you sent though. And the second one can't work on your motherboard since the mobo doesn't have an s/pdif output.

u/undead_drop_bear · 3 pointsr/Games

>I never spring for fancy headsets, let alone custom sound cards.

you don't even need that. A decent USB amp/dac like the fiio E10K and some panasonic rp-ht21 will go a long way.

You'll notice a huge difference with those two alone.

edit: extra info: If you got a little bit more money, go for Grado sr80e or Sennheiser HD 598's. Again, with that amp/dac, killer sound.

Headphones make a difference, but what they're plugged into make an even bigger difference.

Note: this setup is for PC. The amp/dac will work on the PS4, but will switch left and right for some reason, unless Sony fixed that.

u/TheMuffinsPie · 3 pointsr/audiophile

If your current audio DAC is fine, there may not be a reason to buy a seperate DAC, but that purchase will completely depend on your current setup.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but Amazon says the impedance of your headphones is 50 Ohms. This is an impedance spec that definitely will work fine without an AMP. However, should you decide to purchase an AMP (like the budget-oriented ones I'll post here), such as the 02 from Mayflower, the FiiO E10k or one of the Schiit AMPs like the Magni, you would find that the audio quality of your headphones would increase, since their full potential will be unlocked.

The Schiit combo is very high quality for the money, and I believe you'd be pretty happy with it.

u/Blais_Of_Glory · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

What's your budget? Where do you live? What type of music do you listen to? Are you looking for headphones that can be used for gaming? Do you need a mic with the headphones? What is the music coming from? For example, if you're listening to music through your computer and your headphones are connected to the computer, you would be better off getting a DAC and amp combo (something like the Schiit Fulla/Schiit Fulla on Amazon or FiiO E10K or Audioengine D1 or AudioQuest DragonFly) and then getting better headphones. I personally have tried several different brands and Sennheiser are my favorites. I currently have Sennheiser PC 363D (on Amazon) for gaming, movies, and TV and have the Sennheiser HD 598 SE (on Amazon) for music.

u/jakethepassion · 3 pointsr/Amd

So from my limited understanding of audio equipment I know that a DAC simply converts the digital signal from the computer to an analog signal for the headphones (a separate DAC helps the most with isolating the signal from interference from the computer). If you think the sound coming from your headphones is too quiet or lackluster what you really need is an amplifier to make the signal stronger, or a DAC/amp combo.

Two DAC/amp combos I see recommended often are the

Fiio E10K


Both have a DAC to isolate the signal and an amplifier to power higher end headphones.

u/ineedawindose · 3 pointsr/buildapc

you can also consider investing in a usb dac & an amp or a dac/amp like a fiio e10 and forgo the onboard audio completely. a bonus is that you can reuse this for future systems without worrying about onboard audio chipsets.

u/keeif · 3 pointsr/sffpc

Likely picking up interference from your graphics card. If you can, route the audio cable over the top of the motherboard and then down to the HD audio pins.

Though it might not be avoidable with how compact the case is and how close the ports are to the graphics card.

I think this gets worse with more power hungry cards. I've had the cable sitting right on the back of a 960 and never heard any interference but when I upgraded to a 970 I had to reroute the cable as I was hearing the same thing.

Only other option is buying a USB DAC and Amp like this.

u/Pomnom · 3 pointsr/reactiongifs

>It achieves making the phone water resistant, allowing for a digital audio connection, giving built in stereo speakers, not having to deal with a wire that gets snagged on things and leaving room in the phone for better laid out internals.

Links added. The last point is completely conjecture and they managed almost a decade without it. Also the lack of option. Every single smartphone can use bluetooth headset. Only iphone 7 cannot use wire headset.

u/Fai9al023 · 3 pointsr/headphones
u/DosParkers · 3 pointsr/Rockband

In the video he is using a HDMI splitter to split the signal into two and then converting one of them into analog audio using a DAC (Digital-to-Analog-Converter). However, you can skip the HDMI splitter because, fortunately for us, the consoles already split the signal for us. It's called TOSLINK or optical out. This signal is output with near 0ms delay (cannot get any quicker output). Now we just need to convert it to an analog signal. Fortunately again, most sound receivers do this for you (most will have a optical audio input) and they do it with very good audio delay (it takes a few ms to convert from digital to analog). The issue arises when you don't have a sound receiver and you instead use the TV's built-in DAC. In almost all cases, they are the cheapest DAC the TV manufacturer can find and the audio is ran through several built-in filters before being output (adding quite a bit of audio delay). So here are your scenarios and solutions.

  1. Sound receiver (external soundbar or stereo receiver) - Use an optical audio cable ($5-$10) and run it from the console directly into the sound receiver. If you are using a sound receiver, it will have a "Direct" mode. You need to enable that to bypass the sound filters (which increases lag). Most sound bars do not have this feature but the filters they apply are much less extensive and therefore much less lag inducing.
  2. No sound receiver (built in TV speakers) - Buy a cheap external DAC (Fiio D3 for $20 is a very good choice) and run an optical audio cable directly from the console into the DAC and then a red/white (analog RCA) cable directly from the DAC into the TV.

    I would highly recommend #1 over #2. You can pick up a decent sound bar for $80+ and it will blow your mind compared to the TV's built-in speakers. I personally own this one and it's not even comparable to the TV's speakers. It also allows you to connect your Bluetooth devices directly to it wirelessly and use headphones by plugging them directly into the sound bar.

    Hope this helped!


  • Did some testing for you and pulled out my Fiio D3 and did optical direct from console and then used headphones plugged into the Fiio. My audio lag for guitar was +10ms from the video lag (0ms, TV in game-mode). This would also be comparable to Direct Stereo Mode in a sound receiver. Maybe another +10ms.
  • The sound bar is around +60ms. Which is extremely fast for it running the audio through a sound filter (to make it sound better / it doesn't have any kind of direct stereo mode). (I need to test this more later though.)
u/ctfrommn · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Good speakers too...I owned almost exactly the same pair. Those hearken back to when Infinity actually made good speakers.

u/Olgaar · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

How many inputs do you have on your Amp? If you can take more than 1 analog input, you could get a cheap USB DAC:

and a cheap optical/coax DAC:

And still stay under $50. Off the top of my head, I'm not familiar with a cheap one that does both.

EDIT: actually, I stumbled on this one here:

u/heavymcd · 3 pointsr/rocksmith

I’ll assume by “lag” you mean the latency between when you strum and when the note sounds. If you simply mean the difference between when the note sounds and when it crosses the line on the TV, that can be adjusted in video settings.

Latency, however, and only be fixed in hardware (at least in the context of Rocksmith on XB1).

First, let’s talk about latency. I forget the actual cutoff, but somewhere around 100ms is the point at which your brain will “notice” that the sound of your strum is lagging behind your action of strumming. As long as you can get it under your threshold of perception, you’ll usually be fine. But once it’s over, you’re screwed.

Latency stacks. So every step that adds latency is the enemy. There is latency in the real-tone cable (and indeed any digital interface). There’s latency in the Xbox, as it takes your tone, applied your amp and effect sims, and then sends it out to the optical output. Further, there’s latency in whatever digital to optical converter you plug that optical into. Plus there will be even more latency if that amplifier or sound bar is doing any fancy audio effects (like surround or simulated surround). And if you’re running HDMI to a TV? Fuhgeddabout it. I think that step alone adds like 80ms. You won’t notice it when watching Stranger Things, but Rocksmith will always suck.

So what can you eliminate? On Xbox One, here’s the best you can do (XB360 has analog outputs so you can do a bit better):

Xbox->DAC->Analog Amp

Turn literally every possible effect on that amp off, or even better buy one that doesn’t have any to begin with. Just a stupid dumb analog stereo amplifier. The latency will be gone, or rather it’ll be less than the perception threshold.

Some home theater amps have an option somewhere you can set to get pure unprocessed stereo audio. My friend’s has a single button you can hit for analog inputs that’ll do it. But first things first I’d try to somehow get the setup above going, and see if it fixes your problem.

For the DAC, I use this one with my (optical only) PC:

That’s a FiiO D3 DAC. Does nothing but turn SPDIF audio over optical into RCA/3.5mm analog. It adds about as little latency as possible. Plug literally any “dumb” computer speakers into it...I’m talking $10 no-frills simple amplified speakers. You should hear no lag. Verify this.

Now, if you then still get lag when you run that DAC’s output into your sound bar, then your sound bar is the problem. Figure out if you can turn off all the processing (surround, SRS, basically any effects at all). If you can’t? Go to Goodwill and get a cheap stereo amp for like $30. And some cheap speakers to match. That’s what I did. Cheap Sony amp with a remote, no surround, only two speakers out and stereo inputs. But it gets the job done.

Good luck!

This is an issue on PC too, btw. It’s just that most PCs, unlike Xbox, have analog outputs. And many users are also using analog speakers, not crazy sound bars and such. So the usual problem hardware isn’t present.

u/EmLeingod · 3 pointsr/howto

This is what you want to get audio to your speakers, it's called a DAC, (better, more expensive options are available, but that's the best you're gonna do for under $100 lol) and this is the cable to connect the two devices (you'll also need RCA cables)

This will get you video to your projector.

Unfortunately since it looks like you're using powered monitors, you'll need a pre-amp to control the volume.

You may be thinking wow that's a lot of stuff, and it doesn't even come with a remote! And you're absolutely right. Unfortunately, the only thing that does all that is a full blow receiver, which get quite expensive and are usually aimed at surround sound systems. Most receivers don't like powered monitors though, so you'd have to get a very special one.

This is where you realize that passive speakers are what you really want, and you blow hundreds of dollars on speakers and equipment and you become an audiophile. Luckily there's a bunch of guides to get you started over on /r/zeos. But the stuff I listed earlier should let you jerry-rig a working set up while you save up :P

u/bizzy11 · 3 pointsr/emulation

I usually don't have my PS4 controllers out unless I'm playing the emulators, so I use the Harmony remote more often. That remote looks good, really low price too.

I use this remote:

I got mine on sale at Best Buy for $100ish a while back. A bit pricey, but I wanted a very slim, lightweight remote.

u/NotSelfAware · 3 pointsr/hometheater

The one downside to going app only is that someone always has to be present with a phone connected to the hub. This could be problematic if your brother had guests staying who needed to watch TV while he (or someone else from the household) wasn't there. For $70 you can get the hub with the simple remote, which would be useful for those kinds of circumstances.

u/TheObviousChild · 3 pointsr/hometheater

Harmony SmartHub

Just set this up in a basement theater with the media equipment in a closet under the stairs. Works great. I used an old HTC Android phone as a dedicated remote control. Works great!

u/Chem-Nerd · 3 pointsr/nexus6

If it's really a big deal you can solve it for $99 with a Logitech Smart Control (it's the same price as the version w/o the small physical remote). While it's not the same and has additional hardware it'll solve the problem and you don't need line of sight for it. Just FYI.

u/andy2na · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

yup, I agree.

Using Wemo plugs to manually shut off your tv and xbox is a terrible idea. The Xbox One runs in a low power state so if you force shut it off you could corrupt your game saves, or worse, your OS and your Xbox. Additionally, if you cold boot it from a full power down, it takes a VERY long time to boot, versus seconds, if its in sleep. Same goes with your TV, depending on your TV.

Wemo plugs should just be used for simple stuff like lamps, fans, coffee makers. Not computers (basically what the Xbox One is), TVs, etc. You wouldn't just pull the plug on a PC that was powered on, would you?

Get the Harmony hub if you dont already, it will do exactly what you want and is compatible with alexa. You can usually find it for $70 on sale:

u/SteelDirigible98 · 3 pointsr/alexa

Mine came with a remote too. You can tell alexa, or you can use the remote, or you can use your phone.

This is what I got. Ships in 1-2 months though.
Logitech Harmony Smart Control - Black

u/Arctic172nd · 3 pointsr/Roku

Its pricey but this is what I use. It controls the roku over ip or you can control it with ir.

u/Feeling_Saucy · 3 pointsr/googlehome

I bought the hub+remote combo used on Amazon for $69.99 . I wasnt sure what to expect because I've never bought anything used on Amazon before, but it was fulfilled by them so I thought I'd give it a try. The box was beat up but I was so happy to open it and see a brand new remote + hub still in the plastic wrapping. Best day ever. I'd suggest going to the link below if your looking for a remote too.

u/jrile · 3 pointsr/hometheater

If you are interested in something like that (I also highly recommend) the harmony hub is on sale for $50 right now.

I personally love this thing because of the alexa compatibility. Also you can use any phone/tablet as a remote along with that one. I bought a cheap amazon tablet as a dedicated remote

u/Mikchi · 3 pointsr/PS4

$700? Get out of here, cheapskate

Or if Ethernet is your thing...

u/alienashtray · 3 pointsr/videos

I'm just curious...

u/rarely_coherent · 3 pointsr/videos
u/Lukeyy19 · 3 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

Only $200? That's a bargain.

u/AstronautMike_Dexter · 3 pointsr/audio

Male 1/8" TRS (mini jack) to Dual Male 1/4" TRS cable. Like this one.

If you wanted to go a higher fidelity route than this one, I would use a DAC (digital to analog converter) like the Nuforce uDAC with a USB cable from the computer to the DAC and single RCA cables going from the DAC to each speaker.

u/deplorable-d00d · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

PC --> 3.5mm stereo to dual 1/4" phono plugs --> into the sub ==> dual 1/4" to 1/4" cables out of the sub to the mains. The crossover is in the sub.

You don't need a usb interface.

That sub (despite the graphic on the back) will accept (and output) an unbalanced signal using TS plugs, it doesn't have to be TRS or a balanced signal.

Also keep an eye on Monoprice's promo code sales - for Memorial Day they had a code for $10 off $100+, $25 off $250+, $50 off $500+ - they'll prob do the same, if not more, for July 4th.

You could probably find the cables at Monoprice too

u/_V_H_S_ · 3 pointsr/synthesizers

Your mixer is most likely a mono input. When I had my volcas, I used this cable:
You just need one of the 1/4" end into your mixer.

u/lovetape · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

FiiO makes a cheap but solid dac ($19.99 from or if you have prefer Amazon it's 24.99 with prime)

1 optical in, 1 coaxial in, 1 3.5 line-out, and L-R output to your amp.

u/Galapagos_Tortoise · 3 pointsr/PS4

Unless you have a receiver you might be SOL. You could buy a cheap pair of speakers and one of these bad boys.

u/Scandinavian_Flick · 3 pointsr/audiophile

If you leave the Impedance set on the '4 ohm' selection, play the amp for an extended period of time and see if it heats up. Because the speakers themselves are only 8 ohms, you should not have a problem.

Does the receiver have a tape monitors in/out? that would be the way to hook up an external EQ, that way you can punch the EQ in or out to your liking. Personally, I haven't hooked up my external EQ in over 5 years, they just impart distortion.

If you want a DAC to simply bypass your onboard analog and don't need any amplifications (since you have the receiver) try the FIIO D3

It's cheap and guys around these parts that have them say they do a great job

u/OJNeg · 3 pointsr/audiophile

I'm going to assume you want to use this for a desktop, gaming setup. If you could stretch out to $200, you could grab the Audioengine A2s, but if you want to operate on super low costs, try this.

DAC + Vintage receiver + Passive (bookshelf) speakers

You can find a good vintage receiver for cheap at thrift stores or Craigslist. Same with the speakers. You could probably do that on less than $100 depending on where you live. If you need help hooking stuff up, message me.

u/MommaSaidSpockYouOut · 3 pointsr/diyaudio

Something like this?

Is there a better option? I appreciate your help.

u/Sluisifer · 3 pointsr/diyaudio

Are you sure there isn't a minijack somewhere? Sometimes there are two sets of IOs, e.g. one on the back of the TV, and one on the side.

If there is only an optical out, you'll need a DAC (digital/analog converter) and an amp (you need some sort of amp regardless).

Here's an example of an inexpensive DAC . I have no idea if that's any good; you'll want to get recommendations for the best options, but it would certainly work.

Amps are more complicated, and many people will put as much thought into their amps as they do their speakers. For a solid budget option, the Lepai 2020 will work well. It's a bit underpowered for e.g. the Overnight Sensations, but the higher sensitivity of the C-note should make it suitable unless you want quite high volume.

There are also amps out there with built-in DACs, so will have an optical in and stereo out all in one box.

u/GoogleNoAgenda · 3 pointsr/PS4

You just need something like this. You might be able to find others cheaper somewhere else. This was just the first entry I found.

u/kingofnima · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Wat you need is a digital analog converter usually revered to as a DAC. Now yes you might be able to get an amplifier with one but that would be a rather large change to the system. The alternative is to get a standalone DAC that converts the digital optical source to analog rca outputs. Here is an example of a DAC that would do.

u/bonestamp · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Not if you buy a DAC/preamp, an amp and speakers (a "receiver" is generally a preamp and amp in one unit). He's talking about piecing it together separately. I'm not necessarily recommending these items, but for example:




u/portezbie · 3 pointsr/hometheater

Hi, I actually had the exact same dilemma as you and about a month ago went for a 2.0 setup.

In the past I've tried a variety of computer speakers and nothing cut it. I never tried a soundbar, but I am super happy with my 2.0 setup.

So here is my $200 set up (big thanks to Zeos for helping me learn and pick out the parts):

$109 manufacturer refurbished Denon AVR 1513 receiver:!specifications

$80 Micca MB42x bookshelf speakers:

$9.43 Speaker wire:

This is the wire stripper I bought but it is no longer available for prime so I would get a different one:

Maybe get this one (but any will probably be fine):

Lastly, banana plugs for the wires. Optional, but nice to have ($10.96):

Total: ~ $250 with tax and shipping and whatnot.

One last piece of advice:

I originally tried the popular Lepai amp and hated it. I just couldn't get the volume I wanted from it.

u/piratenovelist · 3 pointsr/ToolBand

I am going to be using this article plus my own personal experiences in the 7 years I have been collecting:

Turntable: Audio-Technica ATLP120USB Direct Drive Professional USB Turntable Price $229.00 (On Sale at the time of this writing) it comes with a built in Pre-Amp so you are good to go. This is one I have been eyeballing myself.

Amplifier: Yamaha R-S202BL Stereo Receiver Price $149.95 (On sale at the time I am writing this). This is the one I personally use and I love it. It has multiple channels so you can allow for growth. For example I got a stereo cd player at the local thrift store I am trying to upgrade. I just need RCA Cables to hook it up which I do.

Speakers: Price $49.98 (Sale at the time I am writing this)

Wire from speakers to Amp: AmazonBasics 100ft 16-Gauge Audio Stereo Speaker Wire Cable - 100 Feet Price $13.49

Headphone Adapter (Trust me you'll need this if you want to listen to music via headphones) Adapter Price: $7.99

Subtotal: $450.41‬ plus taxes. I think you have wiggle room on the speakers, but I searched for high rated ones. If you need help setting up your Turntable and Stereo please feel free to reach out and I can help! :D

u/wgboyd · 3 pointsr/vinyl

IMO in your home, it doesn't really matter. If you're running like 200 feet, then maybe it would be an minor issue. Everyone overthinks this crap for what, a $200 pair of speakers? If you've spent $14,000 on speakers, then sure analyze the hell out of it, otherwise you'll never tell the difference. If you crack your speaker open you're going to find (assuming there's a crossover) plenty of wiring that's far thinner than speaker wire. I buy this 16g from Amazon and have no issues at all with it.

u/capacitors · 3 pointsr/vintageaudio

Okay, you need some speaker wire (I'd recommend 16 gauge 50 or 100 feet like this) and some RCA cables. You can probably find decent cheap RCA cables at a thrift store.

Connect the turntable RCA plugs to the PHONO input jacks on the back of the receiver and connect the ground wire to the SIGNAL GND screw beneath the PHONO jacks. The white plug is left channel and the red one is right channel. Similarly, connect the CD player with an RCA cable from the OUT jacks on the back of the CD player to the CD IN jacks on the back of the receiver. CD players don't require a ground wire.

Cut some equal lengths of speaker wire and strip about 1/2" of the plastic insulator from both ends like this. Connect the stripped part of the wire with the white stripe to the FRONT SPEAKERS red clip on the back of your receiver, and the wire without a stripe to the black clip. Connect these wires to two of the small speakers. Make sure to connect white stripe to red clip and no stripe to black clip on the backs of the speakers. You should have sound now left and right.

You can connect the other two small speakers to the SURROUND SPEAKERS clips if you want to, but those are primarily used for movies.

What does the back of your sub-woofer look like?

Edit: Here is a link to the manual

u/oddsnsodds · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Those are passive speakers requiring separate amplification, which the Mac doesn't provide.

You could use something like the SMSL SA-50. (I need to make a macro for that sentence.):

A cable like this from the Mac to the amp:

Speaker wire from the amp to the speakers:

u/jackholexxxx · 3 pointsr/vinyl

The turntable has a built-in preamp, so you do not need one. You will however need a receiver and speaker wire.

Or you can return the speakers and get a set of powered monitors. The powered monitors could be connected directly to the turntable. You will have to adjust the volume using the controls on the speakers.

u/justanotherdickweed · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Buy 14 or 16 AWG. It's just standard every day speaker wire you need. Nothing special. 18 would be fine too if you've already got it. If not, this is good.

If you're after fancy looking stuff, I just picked up a set of these. and they are beautiful.

u/DieselWang · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Amazon Basics ( and Monoprice ( make good, cheap speaker wire.

Good choice on the speaker. Those Chanes are amazing values: The tower version also won a shootout among $1000 speakers with some formidable opposition.

The next step down for subwoofers is the NXG BAS 500 (IMO the best subwoofer under $300): review here:

However, they sell like hot cakes and they're out of stock everywhere (Radioshack and Amazon are out of them). No idea when they'll come back into stock.

A good option for less than $200 is the BIC F12 and will save you some money:

u/ballpein · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Get yourself a nice little Amp like an SMSL SA-50, a 3.5mm aux cable to connect your TV's headphone out to the amp, and some 16 gauge speaker wire to connect amp to speakers. Bob's your uncle.

IF money is type, you can go with a cheaper amp, but the first one I mentioned is nicer unit that you can keep when you upgrade to a TV with an optical out.

u/TeamTaeyeon · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

For cords/wires you will need a RCA to 3.5mm cable something like this to connect your amp to your pc. You will also need 3 speaker cables such as these 1 for your amp to sub and assuming your sub will have a high level input and output, you will connect the other 2 cables to the sub and out to the speakers.

You could also make your own speaker cables as well which is a little cheaper by using this

For sub wise, I would consider a Dayton audio sub 800 or 1000 as a start.

u/asdf4455 · 3 pointsr/headphones

I have no idea whether or not it would damage the headphones or if it would even really work, but I'm curious if you have a standalone DAC or DAC/AMP. usually any noise you get from headphones on your computer would be caused by interference in the motherboards on-board audio. If you don't have a dac or dac/amp, consider getting one as it might just eliminate the noise you experience without having to use a device like this. You can get a cheap standalone dac like this or this. Now, idk what version of the DT770 you have, but if it more than the 32 Ohm, you could also consider getting a cheaper DAC/AMP combo from SMSL or FiiO.

u/Lord_Glarfbag · 3 pointsr/pcgaming

$20 at Amazon for one of these - fixes problems with hum/buzzing you may get from using the analog 3.5mm output.

u/4567890 · 3 pointsr/Android

A2DP is the name for steaming stereo Bluetooth audio. Android is setup as a sender of audio, not a receiver.

Your best bet would be to buy an A2DP receiver (like $50) and hook that up to your speaker system. They'll probably come with a 3.5mm jack but you can change that to RCA audio (the red/white plugs) with an adapter. You'll also want to get one that uses a power cord (usually usb) instead of batteries. I had a setup like this in my car, it worked great, like magic.

For instance:

A2PD Receiver (This is what I used, don't worry about the branding =P)

Mini USB power cord

3.5mm to RCA Audio Adapter (If you need it)

Total is ~$50

u/TheJon93 · 3 pointsr/letsplay

Headphones. plug these into the back of your tv, then you can plug in your headphones.

u/Shmutt · 3 pointsr/patientgamers

Hmm let me try later at home. I bought a Turtle Beach wireless headset recently. It's meant for PS3 and X360 but I've been only using it on my PC.


Just looked through the manual and Google. Yup, the PS3 cannot transmit game audio via bluetooth. My wireless headset has a unit that plugs into the PS3 via optical cable and then transmit it over the 5Ghz range.

There's also a simple male-to-female Y-converter if you don't want a female-to-female converter.

u/rivalarrival · 3 pointsr/DIY

like this?

Search for '3.5mm to RCA' for more options.

Edit: Changed the link to the female version of the adapter.

u/omers · 3 pointsr/Beatmatch

That sounds like a great setup to me. The DDJ-SB is fast becoming one of the main recommendations for those looking to go the Serato/Pioneer route and Sennheiser makes fantastic headphones with their iconic HD-25s being essentially an industry standard... While I've never used the HD6s I've seen good reviews and that blue is mighty sexy... :D

While computer speakers aren't the best for DJing they're better than nothing for practice at home. You'll need an adapter to go from the RCA master out on the DDJ-SB to the 1/8" TRS connector of the speakers though... This:

(You will of course also need a laptop or computer.)

u/Kennertron · 3 pointsr/rocksmith

You would probably want something like this RCA to headphone adapter then you can use any headphones you like.

I have a crappy pair of Behringer headphones I got with a practice amp kit I had bought early on in my guitar learnings, but here's some Sennheisers that look pretty nice.

Works with anything that has RCA audio out.

u/rickybobbyeverything · 3 pointsr/CarAV

if you're trying to connect a 3.5mm jack to RCA you can use an adapter:

u/Freezerburn · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Yep Schhiit dac and amp are fantastic and the HE400 is as well. Can't go wrong with that combo!

Schitt Modi

Hifiman HE-400

Getting into magnetic planar speakers will get you into a whole other class of audio.

Magnetic planar speakers love power so a Magni wouldn't be bad either but that's over the $500 mark but it's not really required. Also the modi have rca outputs so you'll need something like this

EDIT:Skip the modi and just get a Fiio E10 Sorry screwed up on the dac deal but the HE-400 is still worthy by and the Fiio E10 will perform as a good dac and amp.

I agree with pagonda, I'd return them.

u/squidwalk · 3 pointsr/PS3

The old-fashioned idea is for you to employ a 2 x RCA Male / 1 x 3.5mm Stereo Female, so you can take your stereo sound and plug some headphones into it. It seems like your TV doesn't have any proper audio out for it, so you'll have to use ones straight from the PS3.

u/tcookc · 3 pointsr/audioengineering

you'll need an additional headphone amp/splitter to get more than two hp-out on any affordable interface.

u/Boloar · 3 pointsr/diyaudio

Pretty much the easiest way is a single Bluetooth receiver, connected to the input of an audio splitter (preferably a powered one, such as a multi-headphone amp like this) sending copies of the received audio to the separate devices. There are currently no completely wireless solutions to having truly synchronized audio sent to multiple outputs - at least not available for the common man. It's a topic of much research.

u/n_nick · 3 pointsr/battlestations

Here is my build list formated for reddit

Group | Name | Price | Quantity | Total | Link
--- | --- | --- | --- | --- | ---
Pc | (Everything Inside the case) | | | |
$1,601.62 | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $347.00 | 1 | $347.00 |
| Cooler Master Hyper D92 54.8 CFM Rifle Bearing CPU Cooler | $44.80 | 1 | $44.80 |
| Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $171.49 | 1 | $171.49 |
| Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | $129.99 | 1 | $129.99 |
| Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $97.99 | 1 | $97.99 |
| Hitachi HD​S723020BLA​642 | $58.00 | 3 | $174.00 | EBay
| EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card | $459.99 | 1 | $459.99 |
| EVGA 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $90.39 | 1 | $90.39 |
| XFX AMD Radeon HD 5450 1GB | $29.99 | 2 | $59.98 |
| PWM Female to 4 x PWM Male Computer Case Fan Splitter | $6.50 | 2 | $13.00 |
| Sabrent 2.5" SSD & SATA Hard Drive to Desktop 3.5" | $12.99 | 1 | $12.99 |
| 80MM 5000RPM Fan | $0.00 | 2 | $0.00 |
| 92MM 5000RPM Fan | $0.00 | 4 | $0.00 |
Monitors | | | | |
$744.66 | Seiki Pro SM28UTR 28-Inch 4K UHD 3840x2160 | $195.69 | 1 | $195.69 |
| AOC e2460Sd 24-Inch Widescreen LED Monitor | $142.99 | 3 | $428.97 |
| Dell 17" 5:4 | $30.00 | 4 | $120.00 | EBay
Cables | | | | |
$137.77 | Cable Matters Gold Plated DisplayPort to DisplayPort Cable 10 Feet | $11.99 | 1 | $11.99 |
| Cable Matters Active DisplayPort to DVI Male to Female Adapter | $19.99 | 2 | $39.98 |
| DVI Male to Female 90 Degree Adapter Connector | $4.43 | 3 | $13.29 |
| 15ft 28AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D Cable - Black | $10.47 | 3 | $31.41 |
| 15ft Super VGA M/M | $5.69 | 4 | $22.76 |
| 15ft USB 2.0 A Male to A Female Extension | $1.87 | 5 | $9.35 |
| 25ft hdmi cable | $8.99 | 1 | $8.99 |
Desk Accesseries | | | | |
$263.49 | Perixx PX-5200 Cherry MX Blue | $72.91 | 1 | $72.91 |
| Logitech C310 Webcam | $31.93 | 1 | $31.93 |
| Lapel Mics | $6.50 | 1 | $6.50 |
| FingerPrint Reader | $12.58 | 1 | $12.58 |
| Mouse Pad | $8.99 | 1 | $8.99 |
| Headset Func HS260 | $79.99 | 1 | $79.99 |
| Altec ACS 54 - Speaker | $0.00 | 1 | $0.00 |
| Logitech G700S | $50.59 | 1 | $50.59 |
Audio Accesseries | | | | |
$58.33 | BEHRINGER MICROAMP HA400 | $24.99 | 1 | $24.99 |
| 5-Pack 6.35mm Male to 3.5mm Female Adapter | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 |
| 3.5mm Male to 2 x 3.5mm Female Splitter Cable | $3.99 | 1 | $3.99 |
| Coupler 3.5 mm Female - 3.5 mm Female Stereo or Mono | $3.93 | 1 | $3.93 |
| 3 feet Slim 3.5mm Stereo Audio Cable - M/M | $2.71 | 2 | $5.42 |
| 3-Feet 3.5mm Stereo Male to Female Extension Cable, 5-Pack | $12.01 | 1 | $12.01 |
Lighting | | | | |
$86.88 | Studio Designs Swing Arm Lamp Black | $24.75 | 2 | $49.50 |
| Lutron TT-300NLH-BL Credenza Lamp Dimmer Black | $14.83 | 1 | $14.83 |
| Triple Outlet Swivel Adapter, White | $3.27 | 1 | $3.27 |
| Daylight LED Light Bulb 15W | $9.64 | 2 | $19.28 |
Cable Managment | | | | |
$18.81 | 100 Velcro Ties | $5.00 | 2 | $10.00 |
| 100 Releasable cable ties | $2.47 | 3 | $7.41 |
| Cable Clip nais | $0.70 | 2 | $1.40 |
Power | | | | |
$53.13 | Monster MP AV 750 Audio Video PowerCenter | $18.99 | 1 | $18.99 |
| AmazonBasics 6-Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip 2-Pack | $12.99 | 1 | $12.99 |
| 3 Outlet Single-Tap Wall Tap | $4.00 | 2 | $8.00 |
| 15ft 16AWG Power Cord Cable | $5.20 | 1 | $5.20 |
| 10ft 18AWG Right Angle Power Cord Cabl | $2.65 | 3 | $7.95 |
Network | | | | |
$33.98 | TP-LINK 8-Port Gigabit Desktop Switch | $22.99 | 1 | $22.99 |
| 5-Pack, Cat6 Ethernet Patch Cable in Blue 3 Feet | $10.99 | 1 | $10.99 |
Monitor Mount | | | | |
$215.27 | Arm wall mount | $17.54 | 3 | $52.62 |
| Top wall mount bracket | $4.80 | 4 | $19.20 |
| Center Monitor Mount | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 |
| 2x8 | $7.47 | 3 | $22.41 |
| 2x4 | 2.55 | 1 | $2.55 |
| 3" clamp | $5.98 | 6 | $35.88 |
| 4" Hinge | $2.81 | 2 | $5.62 |
| Wood Screws | $9.00 | 1 | $9.00 | Lowes
| Assorted brackets/hardware | $25.00 | 1 | $25.00 | Lowes
| Case Rack Mount | $35.00 | 1 | $35.00 | EBay
Misc | | | | |
$35.97 | Steam Link | $19.99 | 1 | $19.99 |
| Bluetooth Adapter | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | GRANDCOW Bluetooth 4.0 USB Adapter Dongle for Windows 10/ 8.1 / 8/ 7 / Vista / XP
| 19 Key Numeric Keypad | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 |

u/onemanshownetwork · 3 pointsr/podcasting

If on a budget:

I like the Behringer q802usb for a mixer $65

2 ATR 2100 Mics $80 a piece

If you want to spend more on a mic that won't pick up as much noise:

Sennheiser E835 Dynamic Cardioid Vocal Microphone $100 a piece - but doesn't come with stand or pop filter...

Audio-Technica ATH-M30x Headphones to monitor sound or edit. $70

If you want your partner to have headphones, you will need a headphone amp $25 and chord $7

If you have any questions I have a Facebook Group for beginners: Podcasting Made Simple

u/bushwoodband · 3 pointsr/Reaper

I've experienced this issue as well - my workaround is using this headphone amp that I have ($24 on amazon, link below) in between my interface and the headphones, and it provides an extra level of gain, which gets me right in the sweet zone

Behringer Microamp HA400 Ultra-Compact 4-Channel Stereo Headphone Amplifier
Learn more:

u/emosoresex · 3 pointsr/rocksmith

Truthfully the in game sound is perfectly fine IMO and up to par with any DAW I've used, the difference is likely in what you're using to output the sound (the two 12" are going to sound a ton better than shitty macbook speakers or not amazing quality headphones).

That being said I'm splitting to the same exact amp for my setup with a behringer headphone amplifier and dehummer.

I've heard other people use tuning pedals or AB/Y pedals which may (probably) are a cheaper and better solution, but I can't personally speak to that.

The downside of this setup is that you're going to still need to keep your volume at 10 and your tone at 10 on your guitar for the best RS note detection.

u/squirley2005 · 3 pointsr/audioengineering

Funnily enough I have myself just bought one of these for like £20. Well worth it!!

u/Yoav420 · 3 pointsr/audioengineering

Thank you for the reply.

Do you think these cheap Behringer MX400 and Behringer HA400 will do the job for band practice?

The only problem is that I have a very convenient record function on my drum module that records the mix in and the drums to a wav file on a SD card, by plugging everything to the mixer I lose this function so maybe I should wire like that:
Bass + Guitar -> MX400 -> Drum module -> HA400 -> headphones.
That way I can record easily while jamming, what do you think?

u/snyderversetrilogy · 3 pointsr/ota

So the satellite dish is on the side of the house then? If the coax cable is coming out of the attic vent near the roof peak you might be able to mount the antenna at the roof peak. This is the antenna I got (they have it at Walmart): It works great, for me at least.

u/colossalfalafel1216 · 3 pointsr/phoenix

So I tried the high end Mohu style indoor antenna, and had to buy a larger outdoor antenna. The indoor had inconsistencies in video quality or video loss. After putting an outdoor one up, we've had no issues.

This is the one I picked up: RCA Compact Outdoor Yagi HDTV Antenna

It's been up for about a year and a half, great so far

u/musjunk22 · 3 pointsr/ChicagoSuburbs

Try r/ota. Also check out I'm in Batavia also and I had to use an outdoor antenna to get more than a couple channels. If you look around town you'll see a lot of different outdoor antennas. We're just a little too far from most of the Chicago transmitters to get a reliable signal indoors. I got a very good outdoor setup from Olmstead's downtown. I installed it myself but they do installs also if you're not the DIY type or have a fear of heights. It was more than $150 for the smaller outdoor antenna they have plus a small mast. I used a chimney mount, they only sell tripod mounts.

You could go the bargain route. I think this antenna may have good results RCA Compact Outdoor Yagi HDTV Antenna with 70 Mile Range

u/kevlarlover · 3 pointsr/Chattanooga

Yup, I live in North Shore (in one of the valleys - bad place for TV reception), mounted an antenna in my attic (not even an exterior one) and I get all the channels in crystal-clear quality.

If you're up on a hill or in a flat area with few obstructions, something like an amplified Mohu Leaf will probably be enough; if you're somewhere like me where reception is a challenge, you'll need something like this: - maybe with a separate amplifier.

u/reggydavis · 3 pointsr/HeadphoneAdvice

Considering these are desktop devices, your iPhone won't be able to connect to the DAC, only to the AMP. The Modi 3 comes with a micro usb cable you can plug into your laptop.

Connecting the DAC to AMP

Connecting iPhone to AMP (headphone jack)

u/APEvorbis2341 · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

You can get a 3.5m to dual rca male cable or 3.5mm to rca socket for easier splitting but need a rca male to male. Keep in mind to set your realtek driver to max power (differs for different drivers/software). Also a good motherboard is recommended like the modern alc1220 or even alc892-897). Ideally a high snr board (some low end boards are good like the msi tomahawk[except b450 ughh dont know why msi dumdbed it down:(] or mortar with high output for the codec they implemented by implementing good amps). You also need speaker wire or 2 premade speaker cable for sturdier and easier connection process

u/theSalmon9 · 3 pointsr/audio

I don't actually have one of these subs, but I'm 99% sure you will not be able to use the sub to power the speaker outputs. The speaker level inputs/outputs are used to get a signal to the sub after it has already gone through an amplifier, and the sub's built-in amplifier is only used to power itself. You can definitely still use the sub by getting an adapter cable to run from the TVs 3.5mm output to the subs RCA Line In, but you will need to get some sort of amp/receiver for the bookshelf speakers. It doesn't have to be fancy, I've used small cheap amplifiers to power speakers and while it wasn't audiophile quality, it was definitely better than the TV speakers.

3.5mm to RCA cable

Small Amplifier I've used before

u/Archayor · 3 pointsr/headphones

Yes, this can easily be done.

You'll just connect your D30 and Atom like a normal DAC/Amp setup, and connect the RCA outs on the back of the Atom to the AUX input on the AD18. The Atom will automatically act as a pre-out once you unplug your headphones and route the input from your DAC through to the AD18, and you can use the volume wheel of the Atom to control the volume of your speakers as well.

So all you'll need to buy in addition to that is a dual-RCA to 3.5mm TRS cable (like this one)

u/OhSchmitt · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Invest 30 bucks in this, not super loud but its good enough and its a third the price of the cheapest sena headset

Reciever Audio Only $16

Speakers $14

This is my setup and I love it only downside is no microphone but I usually ride alone so it doesn't matter to me

Edit: so I recently ordered these

Receiver Mic and Audio $20

Mic $5

Adapter $6

I'm trying to come up with a bluetooth calling set up if anyone is interested I can make a diy on how I put all this together, I will also report the quality of the new parts at a later date

u/CaCHooKaMan · 3 pointsr/xboxone
u/shoeyorkcity23 · 3 pointsr/xboxone

Buy the following:

  1. Lapel Microphone

  1. Mic/Heaphone Splitter

u/Otofon · 3 pointsr/PS4

It would need to be a TRRS, no?

Try this

u/[deleted] · 3 pointsr/AskReddit

buy this

u/dweller_12 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

The jack has both audio and mic on the same jack. In order to use both a headphone and a mic, you need a cable like this. This is not a splitter for two headphones, one is for a mic and one is for the headphones.

u/BossRSA · 3 pointsr/buildmeapc

Neither: Get an Audio-Technica M40x/M50x or Sennheiser HD 598 and an Antilion ModMic, both of which will beat the quality of the sound/microphone of the Astros. If you really want surround sound, you can use Razer Surround to virtualize it, similar to what the "gaming" headsets do. Also, if you only have one headphone jack free, you can use an adapter like this.

Hope this helps, and feel free to ask any questions!

u/celestiaequestria · 3 pointsr/DestinyTheGame

Get one of those. Go into your sound settings on your PS4 and set it to play all sounds through headset. Now you can plug in your existing stereo headphones and a PC microphone, or any stereo PC headset with normal stereo and mic plugs.

u/newhere_ · 3 pointsr/apple

These exist. Small, cheap. And no latency of a USB sound card.

(Not an endorsement for that particular item, I've bought some from clearance bins and it's such a basic piece of hardware it's hard to mess up.)

u/irondal2 · 3 pointsr/tifu

I think you are in need of this.

u/blueberrypoptart · 3 pointsr/vita

You haven't said what your headset's connectors are...

Edit: If I assume your headset uses 2 3.5mm ports, then these would be what you're looking for: . Less than 7 bucks; get it on Tuesday with Prime.

u/phixional_ninja · 3 pointsr/xboxone

You definitely can use regular headphones. If you have a pair without a built in mic, you can add one. I just added a mic to my AKG K550s with these:


u/AbrogateAnon · 3 pointsr/audio

TRRS -----> Tip (Left Channel), Ring (Right Channel), Ring (Common/Ground), Sleeve (Microphone +)

Yes, you can buy an extension, but unless your computer input panel is 4-pin capable then you will still have the same problem

Heres an extention:

and here's what I think you need. This will split the signal into two outputs: one for headphones, one for audio. just plug one into the headphone jack on the computer and one into the microphone jack.You may need to switch them around the first time you try them because this one isn't labeled.

u/red_nick · 3 pointsr/audio

Replace "male to female" with "female to male" and you get what you're looking for

u/Tcsailer · 3 pointsr/CFBOffTopic

I have [this] ( and I love it. It uses science to explain why to do things and I need that kind of thing otherwise I'll doubt it.

u/thergoat · 3 pointsr/cookingforbeginners

My recommendations:


  1. Tasty videos! They’re short, so you can binge a bunch, but they’re also straightforward and usually on the simpler side.

  2. “Food Wishes” on YouTube. I’ve been watching them for over a decade - lighthearted, fun learning that takes you step by step through TONS of dishes. I cook almost daily, and I can credit this guy for most of my inspiration.

  3. Binging with Babish & Basics with Babish. Similar to good wishes, but a little more laid back (which is an accomplishment) and a bit higher production quality IMO.

  4. Bon Apetit! Also YouTube. So many fun personalities, everyone has different specialties, it’s like learning from experts that feel like your friends. Carla & Molly have the best recipes and explanations IMO, but they’re all wonderful.


    These are more advanced, but Serious Eats (google it) never lets you down when it comes to recipes, but they’re definitely more involved (hours to days).

    One of the serious eats writers, J. Kenji Lopez-Alt is a PhD Biologist (I think biology...) who wrote The Food Lab. This man is the god of cooking. 100% scientifically and experimentally tested, this book will teach you everything you ever need to know about cooking and then some. HIGHLY recommend getting a copy. The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

    Finally, if you don’t want to drop $20 (it’s dropped by ~60% since I bought it! Definitely get a copy!!!) on that, but want to be healthy and learn easy, flavor packed recipes, pick up a copy of The Thug Kitchen. It’s vegan, but the skills are useful anywhere and I’ve yet to find anyone - carnivores included - that’s disliked a single recipe. I got a copy for myself, my girlfriend, a good friend of mine, and my brother.

    Thug Kitchen: The Official Cookbook: Eat Like You Give a F*ck (Thug Kitchen Cookbooks)
u/FriendlyEngineer · 3 pointsr/Cooking

Well, on the extreme side, "The Professional Chef" textbook I believe is the one used by the culinary institute of America. I picked one up off Amazon for $36 just for the hell of it. It's really interesting and reads more like an academic text than a cook book. It can be quite intense though.

A much more popular choice and a much easier read would be "The Food Lab" by Kenji Lopez-Alt who is a writer for serious eats. The book has plenty of recipes but does an unbelievably amazing job explaining the science and reasoning behind the choices that are made as well as various "experiments" that kenji does to answer cooking questions. It definitely teaches technique and really helps put you in the right "mindset" for cooking without a recipe.

Here are links to both.

u/SumoSizeIt · 3 pointsr/intj

I suggest The Food Lab and Serious Eats, by J. Kenji López-Alt

u/Cats4Lunch · 3 pointsr/Pizza

Why not?

The recipe I'm referring to is nothing but salt & pepper, a roasting pan with a rack, and all day, really low and slow. Amazing how well that came out.

u/bc2zb · 3 pointsr/fatlogic

I could and it's a pipe dream of mine. However, the author of the original recipe has quite a collection already, and has already published such a cook book.

u/Thisismyfoodacct · 3 pointsr/Cooking

I dig you're enthusiasm but you're asking a broad question!

I'd recommend the following books to help answer your questions:

On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of The Kitchen

The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking through Science

u/kaidomac · 3 pointsr/cookingforbeginners

part 2/2

Second, there are ways to take a more cost-effective approach. I always bring up the physics example of the apple falling on Newton's head, which made him realize gravity existed, and then he dedicated his whole life to figuring out the formula for gravity; then you saunter up to science class one day, learn F=ma, and that's that! Likewise, a lot of smart & persistent people have worked hard to create formulas for food, called recipes, which you can try & learn & get good results at simply by following their step-by-step checklist.

Part of getting good at cooking is learning the underlying tools, technique, and knowledge required for flavor combinations, food pairings, spice mixes, cooking methods, etc., but part of it is also just burning through a bunch of recipes & getting exposure to good results & to various processes, without having to master every single one right off the bat & then think up new ways to use them. So in addition to learning how to cook in general, I'd also recommend simply following a bunch of recipes initially, rather than trying to re-invent the wheel, which can help you get better results initially, simply because you have proven instructions to follow! There are a million great resources for doing this; I'll share just a few here:

  • Website: Serious Eats: Most recipes are split into a detailed explanation & then a separate page for the recipe itself. Excellent learning resource!
  • Book: The Food Lab: By Kenji of the Serious Eats website. This is a really excellent book to learn cooking step-by-step, complete with full-color pictures & detailed explanations.
  • Website: ChefSteps: An excellent resource for detailed recipes from the company that makes the Joule sous-vide machine (note that not all recipes are sous-vide!)
  • Show: Good Eats with Alton Brown (on TV or available to purchase online); lots of detailed walkthroughs & tribal knowledge shared in each episode.
  • Book: Modern Sauces: 150 sauces, plus great explanations to build up your knowledge about sauces. One thing I've realized over time is that most restaurants create amazing flavor through their sauces, whether it's something as basic as Big Mac sauce at McDonald's or a super fancy steak sauce at an elegant, high-end restaurant.
  • Show: "Wok Star" by Eleanor Ho: She teaches a fantastic, recipe-free workflow for creating stir-fry dishes using a wok & a hi-heat portable burner. Note that you can buy the discs (which are just simple recordings of her classes) & printed materials separately from the wok & burner if you already have the tools. She's put together a really great system for teaching wok cooking, so if you're interested in learning the "flowchart" for quick & healthy meals using the stir-fry method, this is the best resource I've ever come across!

    Third, it helps to have some good introductions to the different aspects of food. Here's a few links to read to help kick-start your education process:

  • Basic cooking advice & approach
  • How to cook a chicken breast so it's good every time
  • A quick discussion about "master" recipes
  • Introduction to spices
  • How our bodies works in relation to food & a bit more on food & exercise
  • A quick introduction to complete foods
  • My approach to meal prep & a bit more information on the Look Book
  • Some tips for getting organized in your kitchen (kitchen part specifically is a few posts down)

    Anyway, learning how to cook can definitely be discouraging & can absolutely be a money-drain, because you're going to have to make a lot of mistakes, due to the learning process, and make also a lot of just plain mediocre food before you start hitting some home-runs. I'd recommend making sure that you have a recipe storage system for capturing the recipes & workflows you really like.

    I'd also recommend adopting the "growth" mindset when it comes to cooking, because it's easy to quit in the face of setbacks & label yourself as a terrible cook or view cooking at home as hard or dumb or whatever. If you look at cooking from a big-picture perspective, you're going to be alive until you die, and you've gotta eat every day, so imo at least, it's totally worth learning how to cook so that you can save money & enhance the enjoyability of each meal that you cook while you can!

    I think part of that is just accepting that it's going to take some time & practice (and money) as you grow & develop your skills, your personal recipe database, and the various workflows available for things like making breads or grilling or stir-frying or whatever you want to dive into. Probably the best way to save money, at this point in your cooking education, is to find & follow top-rated recipes. Pinterest has a pretty good algorithm for bubbling up really good recipes, so if you type in "chocolate-chip cookie" into the Pinterest search & try a recipe (exactly as printed, step-by-step) on the first page of results, then you're likely to get much better results than just winging it...while also building up your cooking skills in the process & getting that background knowledge & hands-on time required to get better at cooking!
u/MarrusAstarte · 3 pointsr/FoodPorn

I picked up most of my (mediocre but useful) cooking skills primarily from Serious Eats, ChefSteps, and more recently Chef John on YouTube.

The recently published Food Lab book is a great reference as well.

Also, don't be afraid to practice. Most of the time with food, even if you don't get it perfect, you'll have something edible, and you can use the experience of making something less than perfect as a step towards making it better.

u/murphtim · 3 pointsr/Cooking

Food Lab is LEGIT! been following Kenji on for a long time. Saw his book for the first time last weekend at B&N. $50 in the store!?! I just ordered it this morning on Amazon Prime for $30

u/Chef-horse · 3 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

If you are trying to cook more at home, nigh I suggest this book. The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

u/WeShouldHaveKnown · 3 pointsr/Cooking

There is a cookbook called the food lab which is really great. It explains the science behind making things extra delicious and the recipes in that book are really good "every day" ones not necessarily project meals. Highly recommended.

u/357Magnum · 3 pointsr/Cooking

The Food Lab

It is a very thick book with lots of full color photos, and tons of good info. The only problem that I've had with it so far is that, for as much as he talks about precision in the variables, he doesn't seem to give enough info in the recipes, which is always the problem I have with written recipes. For example, I tried his technique for soft boiled eggs, and it doesn't specify the starting temp of the eggs. He says the best method is to put cold eggs into the boiled water. But when I did this, using the cooking times provided, my egg was still almost completely raw. I think the problem is that my eggs came right out of the fridge. Had they been room temp to start, 40 degrees warmer, it probably would have worked. But honestly, most people keep eggs in the fridge, so I think the onus should have been on him to make that clear. I have yet to try with room temp eggs to see if his numbers are close to accurate. But when I read "put cold eggs in hot water" I took that to mean cold, not room temp.

The second thing I tried out of the book was the Prime Rib technique. He says to cook it at your oven's lowest setting (in my case, 200F), until the internal temp is 120, then rest for 30 minutes, then sear at 500-550 at the end. He says it takes 4-5 hours at 200. But again, I was making this for lunch, so I was starting at 7am. But of course, my roast came right out of the fridge. So long story short, I had to crank the temp up to 350 to get it to finish roasting by lunchtime, so the slow cook method was not accomplished. Again, had my roast started at room temp, it would have probably worked better, but that wasn't explicitly stated.

I wonder if I need to assume that everything is at room temp to start. If that is just considered dogmatic in cooking or something I was not aware. I read the whole intro, and while he does say that nothing in the book is gospel due to the many variables, I would think that the emphasis on the exactness of temperature, the home cook target audience, and the use of thermometers should at least give some attention to the subject of starting temperature. I might find the answer as I read more of the book. But anyway, I still think it is a great book, and I'm sure the techniques are valid, I just can't hope to get everything right the first try.

u/ChrissiTea · 3 pointsr/seriouseats

To save any other British people the sudden disappointment I just felt - it's only 20% off on

Still not that bad of a price though, I guess...

u/kristephe · 3 pointsr/Cooking

I'd definitely recommend Samin's book Salt Fat Acid Heat! Rather than just recipes, it teaches you the fundamentals of recipe creation and cooking. Kenji's The Food Lab is also an awesome contribution.

u/Dial-1-For-Spanglish · 3 pointsr/Cooking

Yes - likely ANYTHING with Kenji López-Alt.
I just bought his book, The Food Lab, and it's six pounds of 'just as fantastic as his work at'.

u/The_Zeus_Is_Loose · 3 pointsr/ketorecipes

/r/seriouseats has a ton of good info on cooking. I also recommend The Food Lab book. I have bought a few now as gifts. /u/J_Kenji_Lopez-Alt is also seen around Reddit and has been super helpful a few times in answering tweets about certain recipes within a few hours. (Not sure if I am supposed to publicize that last part.)

u/MrEleventy · 3 pointsr/headphones

You'd need these. And to set the JBL's input sensitivity to -10 for unbalanced inputs.

u/KidFirstContact · 3 pointsr/cassetteculture

I have a Scarlett 2i2 and have done this very thing. Here’s what you need:

  1. Something from your line out that splits into a right and left - either regular phono plugs that you can attach a TS adapter to (

    or something that ends in 2 TS male plugs. Whether you’re coming from 3.5mm or phono you can find a cable for it:

u/poochzag · 3 pointsr/headphones

Best way to do this is use your Magni 2 uber as a preamp. So connect RCA to TRS cables (or RCA cables with TRS adapter) from the Magni 2 preamp outs, to your JBL LSR305's

RCA to TRS example:

TRS adapter if you already have RCA to RCA cable:

I used those adapters for my JBL LSR305's because I already had an RCA cable laying around. You'll be able to control volume with your magni 2 volume knob

Edit: spelling

u/SatansF4TE · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I'd second the LSR308's, the bigger 8" driver makes a huge difference to bass response which is pretty key for hip hop IMO and you'd have to buy a separate speaker amplifier for the ELACs.

The LSR308s take balanced XLS or 6.3mm balanced TLS / unbalanced TS input, so you'll want a pair of RCA -> TS cables (or RCA -> RCA + adapters) to connect the Modi.

Unfortunately there's no pre-amp out on the non-Uber Magni, so you won't have an easy reach volume control - and the volume controls on the back of powered monitors are often awkward to adjust, so you could also consider adding a cheap pre-amp such as the Schiit Sys ($49, very good for the price, and fits with your current stack well) for easy volume control/input switching. If you do get one, you'll need an extra pair of RCA cables to connect it.

Other users have mentioned the sheer size of the speakers, so definitely worth considering a pair of speaker stands too - they definitely won't fit on most desks.

Overall that would cost between $425 and $475 depending on exactly where you buy and sales etc, and you won't get significantly better around that price (although personal taste plays a role). It also leaves you an easy future upgrade route if you wanted it (Adding a subwoofer, or upgrading the Modi.)

u/paintwalls · 3 pointsr/synthesizers

Would having two sets of these be the right solution? Nord -> KP3 -> monitors

u/MagicShoe · 3 pointsr/xboxone

I've got nothing better to do so I'm going to put a lot of info here just incase anyone else comes across this thread with a similar problem. I'm assuming that you are switching back to a monitor which is why you're asking.
Connecting PC speakers to TV (Kinda pointless just saying)

[For RCA Output]


[For 3.5MM output]


[Connecting console to monitor with audio out on the same cable]

(HDMI to DVI with audio out)

||OR The Long Way||

You can mix these two adapters to get audio out and still use an hdmi cable by itself.

Using this:

Connect it to this:

(S/PDIF [Optical Out] to RCA)

THEN connect the female rca from that small box to this:

Then connect your speaker's 3.5mm male cable to the female 3.5mm cable.

u/atc32 · 2 pointsr/Cooking

alton brown is a good place to start, and I would also recommend the food lab ( if she has some interest in science. He does a good job of explaining the why's, and it will teach her to ask good questions early and not just take it all on faith

u/Geolian · 2 pointsr/IWantToLearn

If you're science/detail minded, The Food Lab is a great cookbook. You'd learn not just the basics, but also how small changes in ingredients, timing and technique have significant impacts on the end result. Lots of recipes and cookbooks just give you a series of steps to follow, and more often than not you'll be alright with just that. But having a book that details how different ingredients work by themselves and with each other is a huge help in getting started.

It's also important to note that cooking is combination of art & science (in contrast with baking, which can be very specific in its process...don't get too experimental with baking until you have more experience). A recipe may ask to cook for 20 minutes, but based on the heat you're applying it was already done in 18 minutes. Do you leave it in there longer just because the recipe said so? It's not always about following a specific set of steps, you have to be able to look at the process and identify the necessary changes to achieve the result you want. And that knowledge only comes through practice and experience.

So yeah, there may be some mishaps. I like to say, "eat your mistakes". Rarely is something so badly cooked that it's completely inedible. Every mistake is a lesson on what to improve upon, and there's always room to improve.

It sounds daunting at first, but it's like learning a new language or riding a bike. Eventually, the general knowledge from all the different recipes you cook compounds and you'll "just know" how the process is going without even looking at it. Have fun with it, it's a really useful skill.

u/Ashilikia · 2 pointsr/LetsReadABook

I read more of The Food Lab this week. I only have two chapters left (it's a behemoth of a book) but I had to return it to the library because I'm moving tomorrow. One of the last chapters I have left to read is about salad, which made me so sad to return it! I love salads, haha.

I seriously recommend The Food Lab to anyone who likes both science and cooking. It's a great book to just read through even if you don't actually make any of the recipes; you learn so much! It was written by /u/J_Kenji_Lopez-Alt of Serious Eats. If you're an Alton Brown fan, Kenji does work comparable to but more rigorously than Alton did/does, but with written posts instead of videos.

u/coughcough · 2 pointsr/Cooking

Kenji's method is what I use. If you haven't checked it out, his book The Food Lab is really good.

u/meteorknife · 2 pointsr/cookingforbeginners

This is the link for the book. I would recommend it too. My biggest problem was that I knew how to make a handful of recipes, but I really didnt understand what was happening when I mixed things in a certain order or why/how the different variations of a dish exist (poached eggs vs over easy). This book fully explains their recipes and why its being cooked that way.

I would highly recommend it if you have an analytical mindset and trying to learn processes and rules of cooking.

u/drewd0g · 2 pointsr/seriouseats

Hey Kenji, thanks for doing this AMA! Big fan, the The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science is always open in our kitchen.

I’ve cooked your Deep-Fried, Sous Vide, 36-Hour, All-Belly Porchetta recipe several times and it’s awesome. My question to you is how can I translate this recipe & technique to a part of a lamb?

-Would Lamb Belly be the best cut for this? Or would I have better luck using a meatier part of the lamb like a boned out chuck or leg?

-For how long and what temp would you recommend cooking it for?

-For finishing, would I be better off in a blazing hot oven versus deep-fried due to the absence of the thick skin found on the pork belly.

Thanks for taking the time to answer our questions!

u/elchicodelgado · 2 pointsr/Cooking

This is an amazing cookbook. I generally shy away from cookbooks as I find them pointless, given that I can use the internet to find recipes but this one is worth owning.

u/sscutchen · 2 pointsr/cocktails

Absolutely. I have Kenji's book, The Food Lab. I don't do everthing by his methods because, for example, my wife likes beef and chicken very well done. But the fundamental science behind what he—specifically—and the site—in general—provides is excellent.

u/IndividualHamster · 2 pointsr/suggestmeabook

You might like this : The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science I got this for someone that's really into the science behind cooking and she really loved it. I don't know the ratio of meat to vegetable in here, but I'm pretty sure the book runs the gambit.

u/pokemansplease · 2 pointsr/BlackPeopleTwitter

To anyone wanting to learn more about it, The Food Lab by J. Kenzi Lopez-Alt is an awesome book to have around. It doesn't just list off recipes, but discusses different types of foods and breaks down the different techniques most used in cooking them. So you don't just learn how to cook certain specific recipes, but how to cook things in general. I love it.

For example, there's a section about steak where he discusses all the different cuts, how they're flavored, and the pros and cons of the methods used in cooking each type. He even explains how you can rig up a ghetto sous-vide setup in a beer cooler.

u/Frogblaster77 · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

He sounds a lot like me. I hate clutter. I would recommend this.

If he already knows all that, then this.

If he already knows all that, then he's set for life and you can probably just stop getting him gifts now.

u/chris_anna · 2 pointsr/Cooking

The Food Lab by J. Kenji Lopez-Alt has been a great find for me and venturing toward the deep end of cooking. He definitely doesn't try to make his recipes overly simple, but they're written well and are a snap to follow. The book is about 1,000 pages long and definitely rewards cover-to-cover reading, but my preferred way to approach it is to think of a food or class of food that I want to make (like "hamburgers" or "salad dressing") and then find it in the index. If it's in the book, it will definitely be a very good version of the recipe.


Reading the non-recipe sections also did a lot to help me understand what goes on during various cooking processes and has helped me step away from strictly following recipes. I still generally follow Kenji's recipes to the letter but I can adjust something from, e.g., AllRecipes to suit my tastes without compromising the end result.



u/soopuoos · 2 pointsr/cookingforbeginners

Try 'The Food Lab' by Kenji Lopez Alt. He details a lot of the science behind cooking methods and includes experiments he's done to compare them

u/123ilovebasketball · 2 pointsr/financialindependence

To expand on /u/barchueetadonai's reply, Kenji Lopez-Alt writes recipes tested via scientific method. His recipes are available on or in his book The Food Lab.

Also, invest in a basic slow cooker. Start it before work and you'll come home to pot roast, pulled pork, buffalo chicken, meatballs, pretty much anything.

And lastly, the sous vide cooker. Check out /r/sousvide, but you can make anything from steaks to lamb to duck. But most importantly, long cooks will leave the toughest cuts of beef or pork tender and juicy.

u/axiomatic_fallacy · 2 pointsr/Cooking

Hands down, The Food Lab (nonaffiliate link)

Kenji Lopez-Alt breaks so many cooking concepts down with science and experimenting but in a way that the average consumer can enjoy it. He shows you the process he uses and makes results easily reproducible. You can read it, you can learn from it, you can cook from it. And Volume 2 is already planned.

Edit: I feel like an idiot because I didn't even read your text. I'm not deleting it. It's so good it deserves 2 mentions :D

u/careynotcarrie · 2 pointsr/INTP

Those America's Test Kitchen "best-ever this"/"all-time best that" magazines are my favorite impulse buys while waiting in line. I've been thinking about signing up for full access to their site for a while. And I love Serious Eats too. :) Speaking of which, I definitely recommend picking up a copy of The Food Lab! It's great.

edit: Changed/corrected "on line" to "in line." (Recently learned that using "on line" in a non-Internet context is actually a NY regionalism, after being made fun of for saying it by my [INTP] bf.) X(

u/ltran96 · 2 pointsr/Cooking

I highly recommend Serious Eats. They've got a lot of great articles and walkthroughs. One of my favorite parts is that not only do they explain what to do, but why common convention dictates we do some things. While you're at it, I recommend you pick up a copy of The Food Lab, which contains a lot of the same material. It's very well formatted and written, and I suspect your daughter will plow through it if she's as interested in cooking as you make it sound like she is.

u/Bosco_is_a_prick · 2 pointsr/videos

Maybe a professional oven get hotter then a home over but I can't make really crispy roast potatoes by only baking. I have used this recipe a few times and it is definitely not horseshit it makes amazing roast potatoes. This guy released a really successful cook book last year, I have it and he definitely knows his shit.

u/ADarkAndScaryRide · 2 pointsr/cookbooks

I'm surprised no one has mentioned The Food Lab by J. Kenji López-Alt or the site Serious Eats (sub /r/seriousseats)

u/domesticat01 · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I'd echo the 'kitchen stuff' idea. has a decent and thoughtful list, along with but if I could tell you to get a few things, I'd pare it down to:

  • Enameled cast-iron pot
  • Cast iron skillet
  • A chef's knife (most people need an 8" knife but my hands are very small, so a 6" works for me -- the key is to buy what works for YOU)

    Eventually, add in a few high-quality knives (I love Wusthof and Henckels but not all of their lines are created equal) -- I lean on my paring knife and chef's knife for much of what I do, though having other knives can be nice

    These items are good, but equally important is to learn how to use them. Long-term, you are going to save yourself much heartache, frustration, and money if you do something terribly unglamorous: take some basic cooking classes before you start buying physical things. Learn how to use these implements properly before investing, so you become a smarter investor. What you've bought for life: knowledge. Start with knife skills ( might work) and work up to learning other basic cooking techniques. You want to look for classes and books that don't just teach you how to make a single recipe, but to understand methods, like braising and sautéing and frying. This way, whenever you hit a rough patch in your life, you can always take care of yourself.

    Also: get a library card. You can then go pull books like these for free, absorb the learning, and save your money to buy only the items that YOU want to keep as a permanent reference:

  • Cooks' Illustrated "Science of Good Cooking" -
  • The Food Lab: Better Cooking Through Science -
u/unowndanger · 2 pointsr/vinyl

Yup, it's USB Type B. To plug from the Pre Amp to the interface, you'd need RCA to 1/4inch cables. I used these to make the connection.

u/sircod · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Here are some amp/DAC recommendations from the sidebar, and here are some from another reviewer on reddit. Since the 305s are powered you don't need an amp, just a standalone DAC. You will also probably need an appropriate cable since most DACs have RCA outputs instead of XLR/TRS you might find on an audio interface.

u/Tzpike05 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I have a Yamaha RX-V473 receiver and the JBL LSR305 monitors. How can I connect them to get audio out of my monitors while using a PS4?

I recently purchased a cable (link below) but unfortunately it doesn't work as the A/V Out ports on the receiver weren't intended for that kind of connection according to the user manual. Looks like they were meant for output to a video recording device. It appears I MUST connect the monitors to the Speaker ports which accept speaker wire or banana plugs only. I'd love to not buy any more cables but not sure that is possible. Could I strip the insulation off the TS to RCA cable and connect that way?

Hosa CPR-202 Dual 1/4 inch TS to Dual RCA Stereo Interconnect Cable, 6.6 feet

Would this cable work?


u/aderra · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

These will do the trick both in and out.

u/jackdriper · 2 pointsr/audiophile

You can just use a cable like this to connect those speakers to the Airport Express.

If you want to be able to switch between inputs (such as your Airport and your MacBook/iPhone/whatever), you can get a Schiit Sys and a cable like this to go between the Sys and the JBLs.

You don't really need a Modi or any DAC. The DAC in any of your devices is plenty capable. If you're looking to spend $100 somewhere, add it to your speaker budget.

u/Magiobiwan · 2 pointsr/cableadvice

Something like this? Found that with a quick Google Search for "RCA Male to 1/4 inch Male".

u/tmwrnj · 2 pointsr/Guitar

The Mackie CR4s are competent, good value monitors.

You can plug your computer speakers into the Duo-Capture using a suitable adapter. If you've got an old hi-fi, you could also use it with this cable.

u/WaffleMePlease · 2 pointsr/vinyl

That price is for one speaker and not a pair. It's a studio monitor so they have very accurate sound that some people don't like because bad recordings will sound bad. Also you'd also need a cable like this.

Edifier makes a wide range of powered speakers that are highly recommended on this sub.

u/jandk23 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Well, my scarlett 2i2 only has 1/4 ports, so will i need to get a product like this?

u/randomdoohickey · 2 pointsr/Twitch

If you have to ask which you should use between a condenser or dynamic, the answer is cardioid pattern dynamic.

If you're willing to bump up the budget a bit and interested in better headphones, I'd serious look into the combo of the Audio-Technica BPHS1 headset and one of the new "HD" Behringer audio interfaces like the Behringer U-Phoria UMC202HD. This combo will blow the doors of any "1337 gaming" headset.

If you want to go for a traditional arm, the Audio-Technica AT2005USB + Neewer NB-39 combo is a good start without having to bother with an audio interface just yet.

If you do get an audio interface, this will replace the soundcard on your PC and you'll connect your existing PC speakers to the audio interface's output (you'll likely need adapters or converter cables like this or this).

Regardless of your mic situation, a compressor VST plug-in to OBS like ReaComp from the ReaPlugs VST FX Suite should be all you need unless you have a serious background noise problem (OBS's built-in compressor and gate suck ass). Then you can start looking into FIR filters and gates, but I'd only use them if needed.

u/ggfools · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Well, you only have optical audio out, i don't know if your TV's remote controls the volume of this output or not, but hopefully it does. what you need is a DAC for optical audio, something like the Fiio D3 would probably do just fine (and could be powered by one of the USB ports on the TV) then you just need a pair of RCA to TRS cables like this connecting the a5+ would be pretty much the same, just use normal RCA cables instead of RCA to TRS

u/19eddiedean19 · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Yea, I don't have it yet but plan on buying this [active speaker kit](JBL ACTPACK Active Studio Monitor Enhancement Pack
Its a pain to reach behind to adjust the volume on each speaker but you don't do it as often as you'd think. This is more to encourage the wife to use the system easier.

Unless you don't think the cable is going to reach you should be able to plug the turntable straight into the switch I believe.

I used these [ cables ] (Hosa CPR-202 Dual 1/4 inch TS to Dual RCA Stereo Interconnect Cable, 6.6 feet to connect the switch output to each of the speakers

And you would need [this cable](AmazonBasics 3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter Cable - 8 Feet for the Chromecast.

u/travvvvvvv · 2 pointsr/guitarpedals

You could get a RCA>1/4" or RCA>XLR adaptor and use it with pretty much any USB interface.

u/create-a-useraccount · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Your DAC has stereo RCA connectors so you would need a RCA-to-1/4 inch TS patch cable. Example:

u/adrianmonk · 2 pointsr/audio

If you want to hear two sources at the same time, you want a mixer (which is the opposite of a splitter).

A mixer can be digital or analog, but basically they aren't really consumer-oriented devices, and the digital ones tend to be pretty expensive. So practically speaking, analog is the way to go. (That means you would not use your Kenwood receiver's optical input, but one of its analog RCA inputs.)

For an example of a mixer, you could get a cheap Behringer 502 mixer for $40.

If the XBox doesn't have a 3.5mm output, then you will need a digital-to-analog converter for it. There are tons available, but here is a cheap one for $20. With this converter, your two sources (XBox and Echo Dot) will both be available as analog outputs.

From there, to hook it up, you would need:

  • Two 3.5mm to dual 1/4" stereo breakout cables like this one from Hosa for $5 each. One of them would plug into LINE IN 2/3 on the Behringer mixer and the other would plug into LINE IN 4/5.
  • One dual 1/4" to dual RCA stereo cable like this one from Hosa for $6. This would go from the Behringer mixer's MAIN OUT to one of the RCA inputs on your Kenwood receiver.

    To operate it, you'd:

  • Use the 2/3 and 4/5 LEVEL knobs on the mixer to adjust the levels of each sound source. Set the BAL knobs to the center position.
  • Turn the 1 LEVEL knob down to zero since you don't have anything plugged in there.
  • Control the overall volume with the MAIN MIX knob. Or set that to something reasonable and use your receiver to control the volume.

    This is all kind of awkward, but unfortunately I don't know of a mixer that has a more consumer-oriented design and uses 3.5mm or RCA connectors.

    TLDR: Anything that isn't analog (XBox), convert it to analog with a digital-to-analog converter. Use mixer to combine signals. Run mixer's output to an input on the receiver.

    Edit: Thanks for the gold. OP delivers. Also one more thing I forgot to mention: if the Xbox is set to send a surround sound signal to the optical out, that digital to analog convertor won't be able to handle it. You can either get a different converter that can also decode surround sound, or you can change the Xbox audio settings to send a simpler format, which is probably called something like "Linear PCM".
u/covertash · 2 pointsr/headphones

It's almost cliche to recommend this but the Schiit Magni 2 will fit the bill. You would just need TRS to RCA cables to feed from the 2i2's line out into the Magni 2's RCA inputs like these, as an example:

u/Skitch_n_Sketch · 2 pointsr/audiophile

For the Nobsound you'll need this to go from your PC to the Nobsound unit. Find a length that works for you, any wire with decent reviews is fine as long as it's 3.5mm to RCA. From the Nobsound to speakers, you'll need these. Again, find a length that works for you.

u/Konstantine_13 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

You will need some sort of adapter/converter. B&O likes to use DIN style connections on it's systems for connecting to more proprietary B&O devices. Count the number of pins and google "#-pin DIN to rca" and you should find cables like this that should work.

Once you are able to get RCA outputs from the B&O system, you just need RCA to 1/4" TS cables to connect to the 2i2. Then either use software to monitor the inputs or just enable "direct monitoring" on the 2i2 and it will play what is connected to the inputs.

u/MadAsAHat · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

It's just that easy, you'll want to make sure your gain structure is soft on the receive and heavier on the send, since these units tend to be a bit noisy.

u/MankYo · 2 pointsr/audiophile

>Is there any guide on the first method you mentioned?

Your Behringer UMC22 has what looks like a 6.35 mm line level input, and a 6.35 mm instrument level input. If those are both line-level inputs, to get output from your CD player into that, you'll need a couple mono RCA to 6.35 mm cables (whatever brand/length is fine):

You may need to configure those inputs in software.

If the inputs on the Behringer aren't both line level inputs, as in if the mic input is only a mic level input, you may need to figure out how to undo phantom mic power into input 1, and/or involve a DI box for input 2. (At that point, you've spent around 3-4 x the price of an external CD drive on new audio equipment.) Check your Behringer product manual to be sure.

Hopefully you'll be able to use the included or other software to fade and/or pan those channels appropriately into the original stereo mix. The audio production subreddits would be able to provide detailed guidance for that.

I do not recommend going the route described above if there are any other options.

You might want to check if your MBP or an included/optional dongle has a 3.5 mm optical or stereo audio input. If so, you could grab the digital signal directly from the CD player, or get analog stereo without the mess of the UMC22.

u/john1475 · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Your preamp has RCA jacks and the speaker has XLR and 1/4" TRS. Your best bet is probably RCA to 1/4". Like this

u/Pesto_Enthusiast · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

If your headphones use the standard plug, then you need a 2 RCA male 3.5mm female adapter. Here's one with decent reviews from Amazon

u/CoupleTryingGWout · 2 pointsr/hometheater

What do those RCA plugs AUX on the subwoofer do, are they an input or an output? The two amazon things you'll need, the cable you have won't fit with the green one though, it's all males (you'd need one like this instead this But if those are inputs, you're better off just pugging a straight male to male RCA cable

u/burniemcburn · 2 pointsr/Beatmatch

You need to find a way to hook up the the system using your RCA outs. That might require getting back behind the sound system to swap out the 3.5mm headphone to RCA cable that's already plugged in for a regular RCA to RCA cable. Alternatively, you can snag yourself a cable like this one to go from your controller to the Aux cable of the system.

u/woeltic · 2 pointsr/audiophile

What's the difference between using the headphone output and the preamp output with a cable like this on my Schiit Vali 2 (on a pair of headphones)?

u/einmalistkeinmal · 2 pointsr/audiophile

For non-simultaneous playback:

Here's what you could do:
Buy one 3.5mm Stereo Male to Two RCA Male Splitter Cable, and one 2 x RCA Male, 1 x 3.5mm Stereo Female, Y-Cable 6-Inch. Also get a 3-Way Audio Video AV RCA Switch Selector Box Splitter. That all together is $9.82 US.

Connect the xbox to your TV as normal. Use the RCA cable included with the splitter to connect your TV's audio output to the Splitter's Input 1. You don't need to connect the yellow video connection on that cable. Then use a male 3.5mm Stereo to RCA cord to connect your laptop/iphone's headphone jack to the Splitter's Input 2. Plug the 2 x RCA Male, 1 x 3.5mm Stereo Female, Y-Cable 6-Inch cable into the Splitter's Output, and connect your headphones to the 3.5mm female end. You should then easily be able to switch between ipod/laptop and xbox/tv sound feeding to your headphones by adjusting the splitter's output switch. This is a very basic setup, but should achieve what you're going for as long as you didn't want the two inputs playing simultaneously.

For simultaneous playback:

Here's what you could do (I admit this is probably a bit of a wrap around way of doing it, but it was fun to come up with):

Two Behringer MICROMIX MX400 4-Channel Mixer, one 3.5mm Stereo Male To 2 RCA Male Cable, one Male RCA to male RCA cable, one male RCA to female 3.5mm cable, six 3.5mm to 2RCA female adapter, and six 1/4 inch to 1/8 inch stereo jack adapters. This setup without shipping and handling costs $75.55 US.

This thing only outputs in mono though, so it doesn't benefit your headphones greatly (only one side will play sound). This is why we're gonna get two of them though, and this is the fun part. Check out this picture: It has the steps included with a crude illustration. The benefit of this setup is that you can have the ipod/laptop coming in at a different volume than the tv/xbox. Also has space for two more inputs if your ever have more you want to plug in (or to allow a laptop and ipod to be plugged in at the same time).

I... I think that setup would work.

u/cqinzx · 2 pointsr/letsplay

I believe Zombait is correct, but it can fixed with a simple converter(here). However, with this you'll also need an RCA to 3.5 adapter.

With this set up, you should be able to get stereo in your headphones.

u/sneddo_trainer · 2 pointsr/vinyl

So that speaker system already has an amplifer built into it, and adding an external one will not help. You will however need a phono preamp between the RCA output of the table and the speaker input. So:

RCA from table -> RCA input on phono preamp -> phono preamp -> RCA output from phono preamp -> adapter -> control pod on speaker system.

So you need a phono preamp, and an RCA male to 1/4" TRS female adapter.

That turntable is pretty good for its time/price, though you should probably replace the cartridge and/or stylus.

u/FreeDirt · 2 pointsr/funny

>Cons: Heavy.

For some reason I cannot stop laughing. Reminds me of this review about RCA-to-3.5mm audio output.

Here's the actual product page.

u/MerkinMuffintop · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Can you pick up a cheap optical-to-coax converter and check to make sure the optical output is working properly?

Like this:

You'll also need one of these to plug into the coax input:

Another route would be a DAC:

And you will also need the 3.5mm-to-rca adapter since the analog input on the AD18 is a 3.5mm receptacle.

u/Why_is_this_so · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

>So i want to know if its enough or should i buy a dac/amp

Only you can answer that for certain. I've had the M50x, and you should be able to power those just fine. Looking at the M220 specs, you should be able to power those just fine as well. Get the headphones, try them out, and if you find that you can't drive them loud enough for your tastes, then look into an amp.

If the DAC on your motherboard isn't cutting it (and I'm sure it will do just fine) you could pick up something inexpensive like this since your board has an optical out.

TL;DR, you can probably save your money and be just fine.

u/Zeeall · 2 pointsr/audiophile

The AUX output on TVs tend to be very bad, you are better off with an optical to analog converter.

Edit: oooor if you got another $80 to spend(ie $300) you can get the Fluance Ai60 wich comes with optical input and USB input for your computer.

u/Shike · 2 pointsr/audiophile

So looking at your area I see a few options, but none strike me as a great deal. However, based on your location this may be normal. I attempted to check the price of shipping from various ID sellers and shops and it seems shipping will be $100-$200 which isn't ideal as it really hurts your buying power.

You can attempt yourself to see what the shipping is. I tried Chane's bookshelves, HTD's level three, Audio Advisor, and Accessories for less.

The only retailer that I could find that was reasonable shipping was of course Amazon. So here are my suggestions:

Local speakers to try:

B&W DM601

Paradigm Mini Monitor V6

If looking new:

Monitor Audio B1

I think the Paradigm or MA should be the preferred routes. The DM601 isn't really worth it unless it's at least a S2, if original it may be worth around $150-200. Still, nothing hurts trying to negotiate a better price on the used ones - you'll need it on the electronics side.

Your biggest problem is finding power and cheap. If you could even find a budget Onkyo locally you will likely be ahead as shipping hurts. Otherwise you'll looking at something like a T-Amp/DAC combo from amazon or paying ~$160 shipped to get something like this rebadged Amp 100 which doesn't include the DAC. If your laptop has a mini-toslink there's a Fiio DAC on Amazon for ~$20 that would work - while it isn't USB equipped it does allow you to move it around later one being toslink/spdif. So this amplifier, the B&W speakers, and the DAC could fit in your $500 though I think the speakers are overpriced. If you could get the Paradigms for $300 the APA 100, Fiio, and them would likely be up your alley.

For all intents and purposes you could get the Monitor's and this amp shipped for around $500 or get a slightly more powerful T-Amp like this and one of the used pairs, but I'm hesitant to recommend chi-fi T-amps considering that shipping is so expensive that return shipping for repairs/returns could really hurt.

If none of these solutions float your boat, the LSR305 in the OP and a DAC could still work as well and would fit in your budget rather easily.

u/dr_torque · 2 pointsr/audiophile

What source do you plan to use? There's very little to separate d/a chips per se. What has an influence on sound is the implementation on the analogue side - more money buys you better components, better circuit design and isolation from the power components and so on. IMO your A-S501 deserves at least this much.

u/psikeiro · 2 pointsr/battlestations

The speakers are powered, I use one of these as a DAC only

u/CrackAnus · 2 pointsr/audiophile

From your computer to your receiver, you can use a 3.5 mm to RCA cable (almost all PCs and receivers), a digital TOSLINK cable (most PCs and most receivers), or some kind of USB DAC and RCA patch cables. Some receivers can connect directly to your PC using USB or wifi or wired network.

From your receiver to your unpowered speakers (no wall power connection), you would use whatever bare wire cables are currently attached to your speakers or 16 gauge or thicker electrical cable. If you are using powered speakers (with wall power connection), those usually take RCA patch cables, although some have bare wire connectors as well.

u/SXSJest · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Thank you! Yes, the TV does have optical output, so to double check, I could use the optical output from the TV to this device: and take one optical split to the soundbar and the other optical split to an optical to RCA DAC like this: and then from there to the receiver?

That sounds great!

u/HiviSpeakers-Michael · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Does the crackle happen when you use it with your phone?

If yes, your amp has a problem. Take it to a local repair shop.

If no, static electricity is building up between the casing of your computer and the input to your plug (probably). You can solve this by buying a dac, such as

u/_Valet · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I'm looking for a receiver or preamp with a remote control for volume control.

Im using optical --> FiiO D3 (D03K) --> DBX goRack --> Emotiva 6s Powered Monitors

I want to eliminate the goRack and the Fiio. I would also like multichannel out for a sub and potentially more powered monitors.

My budget is $200-300 USD Buying used is fine.

u/x3n0n1c · 2 pointsr/gaming

Yes, it will be per channel.

Wattage is largely irrelevant, the way powering speakers work is most people will only use a few watts per channel in a home environment. As you go louder, it takes exponentially more power to do so, it isn't a linear scale. Most speakers will produce 80-90db on only 1 watt.

The main concern is the resistance of the speaker, and this does matter. The standard is 8ohm and most equipment will expect this resistance. Most cheap speakers from Home Theatre in a Box systems for example are 4ohm, and could potential damage an amplifier if it isn't designed to support them. This is because a speaker of lower resistance will require more power to produce the same level of volume, so your amplifier has to work harder to power them.

The power listed on speakers is the MAX amount of power you want to feed them without damaging the speaker. Any more than that and you may blow them.

Large floorstanding speakers with lots of drivers may be bottlenecked by too weak an amplifier, but you could run most mainstream speakers off a 40 watt Lepy amplifier easy. Lepy amps are cheap as chips amps that are generally ment for car use, but are great for a cheap solution to power a couple speakers.

If your TV has RCA audio out than you can run it directly to the amp. If it doesn't you can use a simple optical to RCA adapter to convert the audio.

Or just get the receiver of choice :P

u/flouride · 2 pointsr/hometheater

I bought the FiiO D3 (D03K) Digital to Analog Audio Converter . It works great. I wasn't getting audio though the Samsung apps and tuner, I had to change the audio setting to get them to work
I don't have control over my audio with my remote right now because my lepai receiver is analog and the TV won't control it that way. Will be going to a full digital 5.1 in the near ish future. For right now, just using my amp manually.

u/sjv7883 · 2 pointsr/hometheater

The only way you'll be able to control the TV's volume with a remote is if 1) you output the TV's audio to a component that has a volume control, and 2) your TV's remote can control that component.


As u/GbMaxSE said, you could use a simple DAC such as this one, which would let you use your TV's optical audio output and send it to your speakers. You would then be able to control your volume using the knob on the M-Audios. Then you run into the problem of connecting your sub and controlling it's volume.


Your next option would be to use something like the Schiit Fulla. This just happens to be a DAC that also has a volume control. In this case, you would connect the Fulla to your TV's optical audio output, then split the signal coming out of the Fulla and route one set of RCA's to your M-Audios and the other to your sub. At this point, you've spent about $99 on the Fulla, $10 on cables, and $10 on shipping, and you still can't control the volume with your TV's remote.


Next up, for $150 you can buy this Denon receiver (free shipping), and then you also buy the Micca MB42 speakers for $60 (free shipping, with Prime) or find something on Craigslist. Now you're in it for $210. But now you have a home theater receiver powering some decent entry-level bookshelf speakers, and you can connect your subwoofer to the Denon's subwoofer output. You now have total volume control and most likely can use your TV's remote to control the volume of the Denon. Once you have a basic setup like this, you can upgrade any of the components (speakers, receiver, subwoofer, add more speakers, etc.) independently of one another.


We can keep going if you'd like! I love doing this stuff!

u/dirt__squirrel · 2 pointsr/xboxone

If it's DVI-I OR DVI-D you can, but you'll only get audio with that. You'll then have to use the optical out to a soundbar or speakers. If they don't have an optical in then you'll need a digital to analog converter like this

Convoluted bullshit, I know, but it's the best you can do without buying a tv or something.

u/friendly-atheist · 2 pointsr/headphones

Does your computer have the red and white out? If it doesn't, then don't try to convert it from 3.5mm to the red/white because you'll be double amplifying. If your motherboard has optical or digital coaxial output, spend the least money you probably ever will with this hobby and buy this DAC:

Then you can connect the amp directly to that and avoid double amplification.

u/transam617 · 2 pointsr/CabaloftheBuildsmiths

You can get a pretty cheap RCA or 3.5mm jack to optical like this:

The quality is as good as the analog signal you feed it.

This is assuming when you say optical, you mean toslink cable.

u/itrain333 · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Totally agree with everything you said. The hub + physical remote for flexibility. I have this unit and it works quite well with Alexa voice control

u/nexus4strife · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

I think the one you are seeing on sale is the older one. Take a closer look at the controls on the remote and you'll notice the newer one seems to be more smart home oriented. Also check out Logitech's website and you'll notice that they no longer sell the one you're looking at.

Older one

Newer one

As /u/akellar said below, I think the hub is the same. From what I've heard the more premium versions of harmony can control up to 15 devices instead of 8. I don't know if this is true and if it is, not sure how it's restricted.

u/sbddude · 2 pointsr/hometheater

One of the things that causes frustration on he harmony remotes is you have to keep the remote pointed for several seconds during the initialization sequence of turning on all the components. The best way around this I've found is one of the harmony models that are RF based. I'm currently using the harmony hub that comes with the simple remote. It lets you control with the remote and smartphones.


u/BigB_117 · 2 pointsr/Roku

The harmony hub works with both. The remote can be purchased with it as package. You can also control things with your phone and you use your phone to program it.

Having both is great. I can do tv/movies by feel with the remote, but I can also fire up my system from the other room and start playing some music without getting up to find the remote.

I just got this one recently and it’s great. It hits every device in my entertainment center without direct line of sight from the IR blaster and the remote doesn’t need line of sight either it uses a radio signal.

Logitech Harmony Smart Control with Smartphone App and Simple All in One Remote - Black

u/Sharohachi · 2 pointsr/hometheater

I like the hub (companion and elite both work with the hub) but I'd go with the basic remote if I were you to save some money. This one is great and it includes a hub. The only thing the companion adds is some smart light buttons, so it would be fine too if you want those extra buttons. I have the basic Harmony remote I linked and the much fancier Harmony Elite, but I end up using the little remote more often. The elite is overkill unless you have more than 6 devices running to your TV/AVR and the touch screen ends up being a bother sometimes.

Edit: I saw you talking about using a tablet below and wanted to mention that the Hub will work with multiple devices so you can use the tablet or the remote as you see fit. I think the basic remote is definitely worthwhile as I like the physical buttons and easy operation, but you can still use your smartphone or tablet to control your devices too. The hub is $70 by itself so you might as well pay $77 for hub and a remote.

u/armoured_wankball · 2 pointsr/AmazonTopRated

> I have one as well and it works well but my complaint is the lack of physical number buttons.

For anyone that needs the number buttons, the Harmony Smart Control has similar functionality but without the fancy touch screen. It goes on sale fairly regularly at $70 to $80. I use one to control the TV, Fire TV, Apple TV 3, X-Box One and some light bulbs.


u/MundaneArcane · 2 pointsr/googlehome

If you have the kinect, you could have google say "xbox turn on", but I feel like that's silly.

I'm kidding, sorry, I've got to assume you don't have a kinect. I echo others on here, get a harmony hub. There's a bundle on amazon that often goes for far less than the hub by itself - Logitech Harmony Smart Control with Smartphone App and Simple All In One Remote - Black.

I actually got this as a gift for a friend who lost the remote to her tv. I ended up liking it so much that I got two for myself (although for my living room I found a refurbished Elite that's a wonderful remote).

u/Neapola · 2 pointsr/logitechharmony

The main advantage of the Elite is that it has a touchscreen. Personally, I find the touchscreen less useful than using actual buttons. I mean, yeah, it's a nice feature, but when I pick up a remote I want buttons. I want to be able to use it almost without even looking at it. I don't want to surf through menus unless I have to.

The Smart Remote puts everything I need at my fingertips, and for anything else (like a feature on my TV that I almost never need, such as the SAP button), I'll use the Harmony App on my phone.

I own both the Elite and the Smart Remote (I used to own the Companion). These things seem to always be on sale, and you can find great deals on ebay too. Here's a Smart Remote with a Hub for $58. The Hub alone sells for $60, so that's a good deal (they all use the same hub).

I like the Smart Remote a lot. A LOT. It controls activities, not devices. What does that mean? It means you assign buttons to whatever you need for an activity, which probably includes multiple devices, and you can assign devices to multiple activities.. My "Watch TV" activity includes my TV, my receiver, my amp. My receiver and amp are assigned to all of my activities except one. The idea is, when you choose an activity, your remote is set up for whatever you need for that activity. You set it all up in the Harmony app (the app is a bit clunky for setup, but once you get the hang of it, you'll see that it's quite powerful).

The Elite is OK, but it's kind of clunky too. It feels kind of cheap. For the price, it should be metal and glass, not plastic. The back is round, not flat, so it wobbles like crazy if you try to press a button while it's laid down. The screen is OK, but we're so used to premium screens on our phones that the Elite's screen feels low quality by comparison, and the screen is slow to respond, though it's fine as a remote screen - you don't need lightning fast speeds on a remote screen, but for the money, the Elite doesn't feel like a premium product.

u/IXI_Fans · 2 pointsr/hometheater


Here is the unmolested Amazon link.... $52.99

I have been using this for years, they are amazing.

u/Chahk · 2 pointsr/fireTV

For high WAF, get a Logitech Harmony remote. Easy to set up using a web interface, even easier to use.

Basically a setup wizard walks you through you adding every component that you want to control (e.g. TV, A/V receiver, cable box, Fire TV, DVD/BR player, etc.) Most current and lots of older devices are automatically recognized because they are in a central repository on Logitech's site, so most of the time you'll just need to enter a model number and all the settings will be downloaded. If for some reason your device isn't found in their database, the remote hes a learning IR port, and you can "teach" it commands from your original remotes. I've never had to do this for any of my components, and some of them are ancient. Fire TV and Fire TV stick are both fully supported: once you set everything up, you will need to pair the remote with the Fire TV once.

Then it allows you to create multiple "activities" where you tell the remote how your components are connected and which ones are to be used in a given scenario. Then an activity is assigned to a single button on the remote. Pressing that button will turn on the necessary devices, and flip everything to proper inputs. The "Off" button switches off what was turned on.

For Example, I have a TV, DVD Player, Fire TV, Wii U, A/V Receiver, cable box, and a VCR (don't judge me.) I set up a "Watch Fire TV" activity that turns on TV, receiver, and Fire TV, and flips the receiver to the appropriate HDMI input. The WAF in this household has never been higher!

It comes with a Hub which sits next to your components and uses IR to blast commands at them (IR extenders are available too) and remote communicates with it via Bluetooth. Perfect for hiding all equipment in an enclosed cabinet.

u/NSADomesticUnit · 2 pointsr/fireTV

I use the harmony smart remote in both rooms that I'm also using the FireTV.

This one:

Is the one that I'm using. Best Buy recently had refurbished units for as low as 79$. If you don't want to spend $100 on it, you can order FLiRC and set that up to work with any remote (harmony or otherwise) that you want. I think those are only around $30 or so.

u/svideo · 2 pointsr/Roku

You probably have a Harmony Hub based remote which has been available down to around $100 if you dig for it. That line has been discontinued and replaced with a nearly-identical line of Harmony Home Control devices. The new Harmony Home Control line hasn't been discounted anywhere that I am aware of, outside of a trade-in deal from Best Buy.

The Home Control series adds the ability to interface with some HA devices like Nest and SmartThings. They have promised that an upgrade for existing Harmony Hub users will give them these capabilities sometime "early [this] year" (it was "late [last] year" at one point, so don't hold your breath). It has also been noted that this will not be a free upgrade.

u/Sidekicknicholas · 2 pointsr/hometheater

I got this for $99 from Best Buy the other day:

Havent used it much since our theater is still under construction, but it seems like it will be quite awesome.

u/UnlnvlslblE · 2 pointsr/fireTV

You can get the harmony smart control for only $70. I realize it doesn't show in the pictures on Amazon but it does in fact come with the hub and the remote. You can also use your phone / tablet as a remote with the harmony app.

u/crypticgeek · 2 pointsr/hometheater

FYI, the Harmony Touch refurb is on Woot! today for $134.99 shipped.

Though if you have a smartphone the Harmony Smart Control is $129.99 new on Amazon. The product page also has a good comparison chart.

u/heath2011 · 2 pointsr/PS3

Check out Logitech Harmony remotes, they will control about anything. This model says it supports ps3. Logitech Harmony Smart Control with Smartphone App and Simple All in One Remote - Black

I think Logitech also made an adapter for the ps3 that lets almost any of their IR remotes control the ps3. That is not made anymore, so you would have to find one on eBay or something, and I would confirm that it will work with the remote you want before you buy it.

u/gurase · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Hub + smart control (not Elite/950) is on sale for $64.99. I know it doesn't look like it but this DOES include the hub. You could buy the 950 separately and pair it.

Edit: Looks like Amazon is out of stock. Best Buy has it for the same price with free 2-day shipping.

u/IDDQD-IDKFA · 2 pointsr/Roku

You should upgrade to the Hub. The One is no longer supported. The Hub is $60 on Amazon right now with the screenless Harmony remote.

That said, any of the cheap RCA remotes that say "SUPPORTS ROKU!" should work. I got mine at Home Depot, this is a newer model:

u/pootsounds · 2 pointsr/amazonecho

Just in case you're interested in the harmony hub, I don't know how long this will be on sale but it's a really good deal and the remote is freaking great... simple and a perfect addition to the hub with out being overly complicated.

u/bashermalone · 2 pointsr/cordcutters

This is really all you need, IMO. Watch for it to go on sale. I got mine a few weeks ago from Best Buy for $99 or so. I used to have a Harmony One, and I do not miss the touch screen at all.

u/___on___on___ · 2 pointsr/googlehome

I'd buy it right now. $58 is the lowest I've seen.

u/jmbroady · 2 pointsr/logitechharmony

If you are still in your return window for your 650, you may want to try out the Harmony Smart Control. It’s the cheapest way to get a Hub and it comes with the Smart remote which is actually pretty solid. I use it with my TCL 6 Series and Apple TV 4K.

Logitech Harmony Smart Control with Smartphone App and Simple All in One Remote - Black

Not much of a reason to get this other than the fact it lets you work with the mobile app because it has a Hub and you can link it an Amazon Echo or Google Home device.

u/paintmekev · 2 pointsr/AndroidTV

Logitech Harmony Smart Control with Smartphone App and Simple All In One Remote - Black

u/jakegh · 2 pointsr/ShieldAndroidTV

I use a harmony hub and smart control, which has been on sale as cheaply as $58. It controls the ShieldTV over bluetooth for zero lag. The hub itself has extremely powerful IR blasters to handle devices that can't be controlled over IP or bluetooth.

The remote is RF, so you don't have to worry about pointing it at the TV. It's all buttons, no screen, which I strongly prefer, and lasts well over a year on a single coin battery.

It does not support voice control (but the ShieldTV gamepad will do that, if you have one) or air mouse. You can use the Harmony app on android/iOS or the AndroidTV app for that matter to do that stuff. The apps work as a keyboard too.

u/skiattle · 2 pointsr/mac

Logitech Harmony Smart Control.

I have two. One setup is a TV, a Vizio Soundbar, a TiVo, a Mac Mini and a Roku, the other is a TV, a Denon receiver, a Comcast cable box, an AppleTV, and a Xbox One. I have a Harmony for each setup. Works fantastically with both.

I did have to buy one extra IR blaster, beyond the one that comes with the setup, but that was mostly due to placement issues with one of the boxes. Otherwise, for my use, I'm able to easily control iTunes, PLEX & VLC from the remote. I did have to edit the default configuration as by default, the Harmony puts the Mac Mini to sleep when you power everything off - this wasn't something I wanted done as I wanted PLEX access from anywhere.

u/MasterBuilderBater · 2 pointsr/gadgets

Closed cabinet... Hmm. If there is any room for an IR signal to bounce around off the back of the closed cabinet door then you could use one remote to control everything inside the cabinet.

I think this thing is one of the best, most customizable interface devices I've ever owned. The Logitech Harmony Smart Hub and Remote.

  • Use the included remote
  • Use your smart phone
  • Create tasker Applications to turn devices on and off and place them on your android home screen. This allows you to use Google Now to launch them via voice, is "Okay Google, Open XMBC On"
  • Connect generic IR dongle to control a PC via Event Ghost
  • and much much more

    It's $129 new or $99 refurb (both via Amazon Prime) well spent. I'm seriously considering getting a second one.
u/BillClintonsSister · 2 pointsr/homeautomation
u/MattM462 · 2 pointsr/rva

Logitech Harmony Smart Control (smart hub and remote) - $65
Works with Amazon Echo and a bunch of smart devices.

u/ugnaught · 2 pointsr/PleX

Technically there are some bluetooth unviersal remotes on the market.

But they are few and far inbetween.

It is also a matter of getting the right codes for the FireTV which I am not sure if most vendors have released their codes for it.

u/terrencegf · 2 pointsr/logitechharmony

I previously owned the Elite and now own the Companion. I have LG OLED TV, PS4 Pro, PS3, Nvidia Shield TV, Logitech Squeezebox Radio, and media PC (via FLIRC). (No receiver.) My main reasons for switching to Companion:

  • Companion is lighter
  • Elite required daily charging (in supplied cradle)
  • Harmony phone app obviates the need for touchscreen on remote (which I rarely used)

    If you don't require the extra buttons for home automation (2 buttons for 'lights' and 2 for 'outlets'), you can get the cheaper Harmony Smart Control (which comes with the Harmony Hub) for $58 on Amazon US right now.
u/ryios · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

While these cables are impressive, they are just cheap knock off's of the original.

You want quality, you go with AudioQuest. Diamond infused HDMI cables are where it's at.

u/Please_Label_NSFW · 2 pointsr/audiophile
u/smuttenDK · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Pfft. Don't buy that cheap garbage. Get one of these

u/YUDoDisReddit · 2 pointsr/GlobalOffensive

It's not the headphones, it's the HDMI cable he uses

u/Ribel · 2 pointsr/nvidia

only 1.5k ? oh cmon...

u/hl3official · 2 pointsr/techsupport

You probably use a 3pin splitter, but the apple headset uses 4 pin.
The one you need is something like this:

You can semi "fix" this by kinda putting the cables in 3/4 of the way into the adapter.

u/NorthAntrim · 2 pointsr/techsupport


Unfortunately I don't think there's anything you can do about the mic. For the mic to go over the line in wire, you would need a 3.5mm axillary jack with 4 segments (TRRS) rather than 3. Then you'd need one of these to split the mic and audio at your computer.

The only thing is, I doubt it would send the mic signal along the line in input. You could try it, if you can find a TRRS auxiliary cable, but I've never seen one myself.

u/cooperd9 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Almost no custom pc components have combined 4 pole headphone+Mic jacks, they use the 3 pole jacks that can only handle one of those signals. You will need to get a 4 pole to dual 3 pole splitter (should be less than $5) to use headphone and Mic features simultaneously.

Edit: here is one on Amazon, is a bit pricy though.

u/killzone4000 · 2 pointsr/razer

you'll need a splitter cable to split the 1 plug into both a mic and audio plug, then you'd just plug that into your PC for the microphone and headset jacks

u/V1RU5-13 · 2 pointsr/headphones

If you look closely at the plug you'll notice there are 4 separate metal contacts (TRRS) instead of 3 (TRS) see this image

That extra contact is for the microphone, smartphones can utilize this as standard, letting you make hands-free calls, but will need an adapter cable to work on separate headphone and mic jacks on a PC (like this)

As for the xbox, depending on which you have there adapters for those too, this for xbox one controllers and a combo of this and this for an xbox 360 controller

As for whether you'd be better off with separate headphone and mic, absolutely, of course you would be, I can't imagine polaroid branded headphones sounding any good at all, yes they are indeed usable for all your intended applications with the adapters I linked but sound quality will be poor, especially mic quality from the tiny thing built into the cable. If that bothers you in any way, then head over to the sticky thread for advice on what to get instead, otherwise those adapters should work fine, even if they come in at just as much, if not more than the headphones cost themselves.

u/A_Water_Fountain · 2 pointsr/techsupport

So you have a headset/earbuds with in-line mics, but you have two separate ports for audio in/out on your computer.

You will need a small adapter to split the mic portion and audio out portion into two separate jacks. You will need something like this.

u/divinemuffdiver77 · 2 pointsr/Twitch

That was my problem too in the beginning. This may get a little long, but I can definitely help you out.

Elgato has page to help with this issue

I use the original Elgato HD and at first I had a headset with a USB and 3.5mm headphone jack, so I had to make a little jerry rig setup with a splitter and an audio Y cable

But if you are willing to spend some money, I highly recommend getting this headset
Its what I am using now because I can talk to my teammates in game, hear my tv audio, and listen to music or donation goals on my PC since it has a multi media source input.

I hope this helps.

u/rehpotsirhc123 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You'll need a 4 position to dual 3.5mm adapter most likely, if it was marketed as being for multiple consoles and PC then it may have even come with one.

u/Non-Combatant · 2 pointsr/pcgaming

Here is one, as for best idk... it's just a cable.

u/OhMyGentleJesus · 2 pointsr/DIY_tech

I built my wife a computer for Christmas and she wanted to use her beats earbuds. I found this:

It works flawlessly! Sound comes through and voice input works as well. Obviously the volume controls on the headset don't work, but most keyboards have onboard volume control.

Edit: put up right link :) hope this helps

u/Dick-Army · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Something like this

u/jaymz668 · 2 pointsr/audio
u/UnDeaD_AmP · 2 pointsr/hackintosh

No problem :D Here is the one i used. You could try your luck and order this exact one but can't guarantee you'll get it working due to mine being a very crappy unit and awfully late. D;


u/dl-___-lb · 2 pointsr/buildapc
u/PanchoBarrancas · 2 pointsr/headphones

I see. Well, I haven't found an inline volume control for TRRS jacks. If you are willing to through the hassle the way to do it would be ditching the usb card that came with your headphones and use a splitter so you can plug them straight to your computer, and the using an inline voulme control with the audio plug for that purpose.

u/pumpkinbundtcake · 2 pointsr/headphones

My first recommendation would be to get a desktop microphone instead. Then you're not tied to one listening experience at your computer when you need to chat with somebody. If that's not an option, you could take the unnecessarily complicated route that I took and get one of these to use any pair of IEMs with an in-line microphone. Personally, I use my Shure SE215s with the UE900 replacement cable at the computer and my LG Tone+s at work where there's a risk of snags/damage.

u/logicmuffin · 2 pointsr/xboxone

I'm guessing your splitter or motherboard isn't working then. You can test your motherboard by plugging in a different microphone. The splitter needs to be arranged in CTIA in order to split correctly. Here's the splitter I use

u/ressis74 · 2 pointsr/headphones

This should do it

The reason the reviews aren't very reassuring is because Android and Apple style plugs are wired differently. You have an Apple style headphone, and the above splitter has a review with a good review from someone using EarPods.

u/-majormexx- · 2 pointsr/Twitch

Stricly console you say? Imgur

In all honesty though I don't know if the amps always supported connection by PC (I have the Pro). They work fine with my rig on Windows 8.1. The amp even uses a driver that boosts the audio a little, creating virtual channels to widen the available tones and enhancing the original stereo signal.

BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE! You can even get a PC adapter as a back-up, in case the amp fails (which mine did, but only because it decided to leap to its death as I got up from the chair, forgetting I had the A40's on. Tragic, I know.) It was pretty cheap too, only a couple bucks on [Amazon] ( Imgur

They're comfy around the padding, but my over-sized noggin came complete with a pair of dumbo ears. They can get annoying after having to adjust them too many times.

Edit: words.

u/danny29812 · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Are you using one of these?

Remember on the new controller adapter, there are 4 connection areas on the pin. Two for chat and two sound.

u/pprkut · 2 pointsr/audio

I don't see any product info available for a Stagepas 800i, but I do see info for both a Stagepas 400i and a 600i. Is your unit actually one of those models?

If it is either one of those, the RCA jacks on both of them are line level inputs, not outputs. The monitor outputs are dual 1/4" jacks just to the right of the one you were trying to use.

You will need an appropriate TS stereo breakout cable such as this one:

u/The_Kraken_ · 2 pointsr/audio

This cable is what you need for the mixter-to-computer interface.

As for microphone, many streamers use a "Large Diaphram Condenser" microphone. Condenser microphones require what's called "Phantom Power" to power a small circuit board within the mic for it to work. That's the reason that your $20 mic has a power supply.

My recommendation would be to buy something like this Audio Technica mic and get a mixer that has phantom power. This little Mackie board would do the trick. Alternatively, you could buy a "Phantom Power Supply" as a standalone component to provide the power to the mic.

That mic will be more reliable and sound better than the $20 one you picked.

u/kichu182 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

They're active speakers, so you don't need an amp - their power comes from a standard plug in the wall. You'll need to buy a 3.5mm to TRS cable. Something like this

u/Cartossin · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Here's a suggestion: 2x JBL LSR305 MK2; and this cable. Then buy a Chromecast Audio which is about $35. (not available on amazon because they hate google). This will give you wifi connected audio you can cast to from spotify or other sources. I have 2 of these setups in my house; these speakers can play very loud.

u/agentsecateur · 2 pointsr/volcas

I have used these for the mono Volcas.

For the stereo Volcas these worked.

The Hosa cables will work but you end up only plugging one of the 1/4 cables in. I found the mono cables to be more tidy.

u/xQcKx · 2 pointsr/headphones

I would get a DAC for it, but to go straight to the computer you can simply get something like this:

As for volume control, I leave the volume on the back at around 12 o clock and just leave it there while just controlling my windows volume.

You can get a volume controller for your speakers that look like this: this will need some different cables.

OR you can get a volume controller for you computer audio like this:

Why not the LSR305's? Bx5's are still a fine choice though. I was satisfied with them until I upgraded.

u/starkimpossibility · 2 pointsr/audiophile

> What cables do I need?

A cable like this will do the trick.

> Does it come with packaged with these cables?


u/Rock_Me-Amadeus · 2 pointsr/Beatmatch

Here you go, have a look at this post

> 1. (preferred) Use the Scarlett 2i2 main outputs on the back panel labeled "Line Outputs (1) Left and (2) Right". Those are balanced TRS outputs, but since you are going into an unbalanced stereo input the correct connection is via a dual 1/4-inch TS to 3.5 mm stereo mini TRS cable. This is sometimes called an "Insert", "Splitter" or "Breakout" cable. Plug into the FPS1500 jack labeled; "Audio Inputs FRONT"

I've never tried this, so I can't guarantee it works, I'm not an expert in connecting XLR/TRS outputs to things, I'm afraid.

u/oCrimsonxx · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I got a 1/4 TS to 3.5mm cable that I read on another comment to use for my computer

Hosa CMP-159 3.5 mm TRS to Dual 1/4" TS Stereo Breakout Cable, 10 Feet

u/MoogleMan3 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You'll need this cable to connect the mixer to your PC, an xlr cable for your mic, and anything else depends on whether or not you'll be using speakers or headphones.

u/Dodgeballrocks · 2 pointsr/audio

If you need a dual male 1/4" to male stereo 1/8" those cables are super common. If you need a dual male 1/4" to female stereo 1/8" those cables aren't as common but still exist.

You can also easily by the stereo audio cable and each of the connectors you need and do the soldering yourself.

u/RaptorController · 2 pointsr/ZReviews

you only need one if you are going to use the headphone output on your desktop.

you dont "need" a dac but it will improve the sound.

u/triplethej · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I've got a pair of Yamaha HS7 at home and I only use it for listening to music without any studio monitoring purposes, I just like the flat response of it.
So I am currently listening to music in 2 ways:

  1. Connecting the Mac aux output to HS7's unbalanced jack input via CMP-159 cable (link below); which probably uses the shitty built-in soundcard in Mac to do all the DAC conversions.

  2. Connecting the Mac to Logitech Bluetooth Adapter (link below) via Bluetooth then connecting the Logitech Bluetooth Adapter to HS7's unbalanced jack input via CMP-159 cable, which then probably uses the shitty built-in soundcard in the logitech bluetooth adapter to do all the DAC conversions.

    However; to get a better, more clear and balanced (through XLR inputs of HS7's maybe) sound from HS7's, I think I have to use a better soundcard than the built-in Mac or built-in Logitech adapter. Meanwhile, I also want to continue to listen to music via bluetooth.
    So THE QUESTION is, are there any sound cards that has a built-in bluetooth function or is it just impossible/meaningless to use bluetooth if I'm asking for a better quality of sound due to latency, data transmission etc.?

    I am not an audio guy, and this is my first professional setup, so I'd be really glad if you can help me out here. I have found a couple mixers that has a bluetooth function such as Focusrite Scarlett 2i4 but I'm not sure if that's what I'm looking for, or if they're any better than the logitech adapter.

    Yamaha HS7:


    Logitech Bluetooth Adapter:
u/biaret · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I'm using a CMP-159 cable that splits 1/8" TRS to left and right 1/4" TS to the speakers. I can hear a hiss if I bring my ears right up to the tweeter. I'm hoping the 2i2 will eliminate that and also make it easier to switch between computer audio and my turntable (LP-60).

u/dielawn13 · 2 pointsr/podcasts

For an iPad (or anything with a standard headphones-style 3.5mm output jack) you would need a 3.5mm stereo cable that splits two mono 1/4" plugs. Simply plug them into the Line In L/R plugs on one of the other available channels on your mixer.

You can find this cable on Amazon 3.5 mm TRS to Dual 1/4 inch TS or get one at any electronics store. Guitar Center also carries them.

u/ChinosandStanSmiths · 2 pointsr/AVexchange

My thoughts exactly...

With $360 you can get
the updated version of these speakers + isolation pads + wires

Or buy some red speakers lol

u/earth_the_navigator · 2 pointsr/ableton

Stereo info is coming out of the Volca, so it won't sound the same as if you plugged your headphones into it. What you need is a stereo breakout cable (such as, for a low-quality example). If you only have one audio input then your method works to make two tracks of audio, but it won't sound the same, or as good imo, as recording the Volca in stereo.

u/wentzelitis · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

The correct cable 3.5 stereo to dual 1/4 mono.. like this

Then plug one of the 1/4 into your interface. The other end doesn't need to be plugged in since the kick has no stereo features. 3.5 to 3.5 stereo or rca will work as well.

3.5 stereo to one 1/4 mono summed is not correct and can cause issues. this cable is not correct

3.5 to 1/4 trs will not work on mono input devices either. this cable is not correct for mono input devices

u/dagulesono · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Alright thanks for replying! Would like to clarify that I'm using this only for consuming music or movies on my PC, not producing/editing music. Would you recommend the Solo too in this case?


What would be the advantages of getting the DAC you've recommended VS plugging directly into my PC (with Creative® Sound Core 3D chip on motherboard)?? With these cables for example


Would there be less hissing/noise using external DAC? And in terms of sound quality, does it make a difference?

u/pewster · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Hey, check out the JBL LSR305 and 3.5mm TRS to 6.3mm TS cable. Cheers!

u/grantd86 · 2 pointsr/diyaudio

I recabled my Grados with one of these by clipping off the 1/4 inch ends and soldering to the drivers in the headphones. There is way more length there than you need which leaves you options and the cable is nice and thick. I used a couple of layers of heat shrink tubing to secure the Y split.

u/shopcat · 2 pointsr/audio

Your question is pretty confusing. Apparently you are using a computer monitor to play your PlayStation on and want to use Yamaha HS-5 studio monitors as speakers?

Yes you can send audio to the computer monitor through the HDMI cable. You don't say which monitor you are using, but apparently it has a 3.5mm output. What i think you need is a stereo 3.5mm to dual 1/4" or XLR cable. This will split the output to a left and right cable you can plug into your speakers. [Something like this] ( I don't think you even need to use the audiobox because the speakers are powered and amplify on their own.

u/mpelleg459 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I've always used the more old school route of passive speakers and receivers or separate amp/preamps, so I'm not expert on this, but I think a cable with 2 male 1/4" TS or XLR to a 3.5mm TRS would do it. like this though it appears out of stock right now. If the sound card in your computer isn't great, there are lots of recommendations on here about pretty reasonable DACs to get that could help in that regard.

These are active speakers, meaning they are each powered by an amp in the speaker cabinet. Traditionally, most speakers are passive, so you need an external amp to get any sound out of them. A receiver is just an amp with other features added, to put it in the most simple terms possible.

u/K-LAWN · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

It has a DAC/AMP built in. The DAC converter is better than the DAC on your motherboard. You don’t need the interface though. You can just plug directly from the 3.5mm jack from your PC into each monitor. Using a cable like this. Plug the red into the right TRS speaker input and the white into the left TRS speaker input. An interface is just the optimal way to use the monitors. But it’s much more expensive as you need to buy the interface as well as the cables.

u/asplodzor · 2 pointsr/audio

A mixer is the most straightforward way to go. A USB mixer is the same thing as a non-USB mixer (usually), it just has a sound card built into that you can use instead of the computer’s sound card. In your case, since you have two computers to route through the mixer, at least one of them will need to use the normal analog channels regardless since the USB interface can only be used by one computer at a time.

If you decide not to go with a USB mixer, pretty much any mixer than has two “stereo” input channels will work. If you decide to go with a USB mixer, find one that has at least one additional “stereo” input channel aside from the USB input channel.

I would stay away from routing sound through one of the computers. It adds unnecessary complication, and will almost certainly degrade sound quality. The bulk of the audio problem you experienced earlier though was from a line-level and mic-level mismatch. Simply put, mic inputs expect much lower power than line inputs, and line output send way too much power for a mic input. Even the lowest volume level of a line output will overwhelm a mic input. It’s actually more complicate than this, but that’s accurate enough.

Edit: for a dead-simple solution, this will work:

Along with two of these cables, one for each computer:

u/jonisaok · 2 pointsr/audio

If you're plugging into the gamepad, you would just need something like this:

Hosa CMP-159 3.5 mm TRS to Dual 1/4 inch TS Stereo Breakout Cable, 10 feet

u/zim2411 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Technically you only need this cable:

The downside is you'll have to rely on your phone for volume control then because the volume is set per speaker and adjusting it manually would be tedious. You can use this in between the phone and speakers if all you need is volume control.

u/cowanrg · 2 pointsr/audiophile

From computer, connect mini-USB cable to back of Fiio E10K. Then from Fiio E10K connect from line-out to back of JBLs (it's a 3.5mm stereo jack on the back of the Fiio E10K, you'll need a cable that goes frmo 3.5mm to quarter inch phone cables, like this.

That's all there is to it!

u/MultiplyTheBear · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

This is a situation where you would want an extra output on your interface. But you can make it work, sort of. Use two of these to get audio to and from your monotron/interface.

The thing is, you need to make sure that you don't send the delayed signal back into the output of your interface, or else you are going to get nasty feedback and kill your ears. So you're not going to be able to listen to it while you record. But I guess you could get a headphone splitter for the output of the montron, and use one for headphones and one to send audio to your interface. It may effect sound quality/volume- I've never tried.

u/the9mmsolution · 2 pointsr/volcas

Do you have any kind of recording interface? (e.g. Sapphire 2i2) there's tons out there. You need an audio input on your computer to take audio from the headphone out on the volca. The audio interface will serve as this input. Plugging a 3.5mm TRS cable directly into your mic input on your computer is probably not advisable since mic inputs are generally mono.

Sound is not transferred through midi. Midi is simply control information.

P.s. The volca headphone out is 3.5mm stereo (but outputs a mono signal) so you need a cable that has 3.5mm TRS to 1/4 inch TS

Like these:

Alternatively, some people use these:

u/Hemb · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Do you have any equipment already? What outputs do you have on your computer?

If you just have a 3.5mm headphone jack, you can use some cords like this:

It may not work well, depending on how how loud (static-y) your pc is. But it will work.

The next level up would be to get an audio interface; the Scarlett Focusrite is a popular brand for this. This interface hooks up to your PC through USB, and has outputs that are designed for monitors like the 305P.

I'm not sure if you know, but this JBL is an active studio monitor. It's main use is for people mixing music, who want a consistent sound. Some people just use it to listen to music, but many consider passive speakers to be better for home use. Have you looked at your options?

u/vicious_viridian · 2 pointsr/drums

I have the 502 module. Does the 500 module have L/R direct output? If so, I’ve used a dual quarter-inch to single eighth-inch cable going directly from the L/R jacks to the microphone jack in the computer, and it sounds perfect.

If not, the best I could recommend is to maybe buy a better guitar cable, as I don’t know the ins and outs of recording through the headphone jack.

u/Kerry56 · 2 pointsr/headphones

Lets try a less expensive route and actually include a mic this time.

Philips Fidelio X2 No amp necessary. £187.00

If you just want to include a DAC/amp: Fiio E10k £61.90

V Moda Boompro mic £25.00


u/blopblip · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I'd forgo an amp and spend your money on studio monitors + DAC.

Something like this plugs into your computer and outputs an analogue signal for either headphones or speakers.

Then, powered speakers like these. It will be a big upgrade from your logitech system, and fit your needs/budget. If you can find a used pair of M-audio AV-40's or bx5's, that would be ideal - this newer line seems to have poorer reviews.

u/Trazac · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Surround sound headsets are a joke, so don't worry about not using one. Doubtful you'll even notice a difference at all and any difference you perceive right now is likely placebo.

The AKG K7XX headphones are very good, but expensive. You'll need an amp to take advantage of their quality, and to that end you'll likely need a decent DAC as well. You could start out with somethin like the Fiio E10K
which is highly regarded for its price. It's very good for a device that costs less than $100.

On the flip side, there are the Sennheiser HD 598 headphones which aren't nearly as good, but also cost much less and don't require an amp to sound good. They don't benefit all that much from an amp anyway (although any headphones might benefit from a decent DAC.) They're pretty good for gaming, and very comfortable.

u/motodoto · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I'm the thrifty kinda guy.

Refurbished Denon receiver, 2 Micca bookshelves, a Micca center channel, and a Bic America subwoofer. About 700 bucks total. Sounds good enough for me. I know much better is out there but it's hard to justify the costs.

My Sennheiser HD598SE's are great ($150), and I have a FiiO E10K ($75) that they plug into at work, and at home I just plug them in directly since the onboard soundcard isn't too bad surprisingly on my motherboard. I have a Sony SRS-X5 bluetooth speaker plugged into the back of it as well. I have those cheap-ass sony ANC headphones (20 bucks at the time I bought them) and they get the job done at a cheap price for planes and for the AC unit blasting in my office (I know... killing me, 80db of white noise all day long).

I have a friend from work that spent 50,000 bucks on his setup. It sounds great, and it's worth it, but I couldn't spend that much on it.

I'm more of a headphone kinda guy. My next upgrade would probably be going all out on headphones. A pair of Sennheiser HD800's probably. That's in the far future, I got stuff I want to do around the house first.

These are my workout earbuds

They are a great value.

u/ThyGoonSmasher · 2 pointsr/starcitizen

I think there would be minimal benefits using an enthusiast grade DAC and amplifier on your model of headphones. You might like something like this though

It's the FIIO E10K which is a decent DAC+AMP combo, but it only has USB in so make sure your sound card supports that. It may be worthwhile googling around for reviews of the Sennheiser 598SR + FIIO E10K pair to get some other opinions as well.

u/ChamuelSophia · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If you want to completely fix your issue at any volume get yourself a USB DAC like the FiiO e10k. Use the plug and play Windows drivers.

u/Jc36 · 2 pointsr/IndianGaming

How much are you willing to spend? The FiiO DAC Amps are very well built and work great. The E10K is 5k, and is great for medium to high quality headphones and is USB powered.

u/rmw156 · 2 pointsr/headphones

I use the M40x at my office and they are a really great closed back pair of headphones. If you decide to go with them, I would also pick up a pair of HM5 Pads (idk why they are rated 3-star, they are 4.5-star with 500 reviews on the American amazon), as the pads included with the M40x are trash.

Now, when it comes to DACs/Amps you should know that in general the biggest change in sound signature that you're going to hear is going to come from the headphones you choose. The next in line would be the Amp and then in last place would be the DAC (this is a generalization). That being said and without knowing what your price range is I'll make a few suggestions:

Headphone DAC/Amp combos

  • FiiO E10K = €80
  • Audioengine D1 = €160
  • Aune x1s = €280

    If you're serious about audio and want think you may start upgrading headphones in the near-ish future, I would stear you more toward the Aune x1s as it's a very good DAC and Amp. If you think you'll be content with your setup for a year or so, then I would say the FiiO is your best bet.
u/gozit · 2 pointsr/techsupport

The better solution would have been a USB powered DAC/AMP combo. Basically usb-->3.5mm but with some nice tech behind it. Something like this

Just plugs into your USB port, plug and play and you are good to go

u/D_VoN · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

So something like the FiiO E10k would work?

u/TakeCoverOrDie · 2 pointsr/headphones

So this does both?

u/hwreilly · 2 pointsr/headphones

Not 200$ it's an old model so it's been discontinued it was only about 70$ when it was out. Here is the new version of it, it's pretty cheap.

u/risingremains · 2 pointsr/headphones

Complete noob here looking to move away from the typical "gaming" headsets. I play games and listen to a lot of music. I've done a bit of research and was thinking about the following items:

Audio-Technica ATH-M50x

FiiO E10K

I haven't yet decided on a mic. Just looking for some tips.

u/Lyzerfex · 2 pointsr/ZReviews

Well. That's a good question. If you are in a budget then pretty much 60-70% who read this will agree. The Fiio E10K. It will set you back less than $100. It is brushed aluminium. Includes a bass gain switch, if you need some additional drive or jaw shocking bass. It's nice and small. And a good DAC/amp.

Mayflower objective 2. This DAC/amp is for more audiophiles with a higher budget. It can drive high impedance headphones and people's listening experience on the Objective 2 was superb on multiple headphone types, that were geared towards different ways of listening. It has superb clean sound.

Sound blaster E5 by creative. It is capable to drive up to 24 bit/192 khz audio files. It is capable to drive headphones up to 600 ohms or 2 300 ohm impedance sets of headphones. It has very good quality sound for what it is.

That'll be that.


Fiio E10K:

Mayflower objective 2:

Sound blaster E5:

u/IBEPROfen · 2 pointsr/headphones

I bought this one. I tried a few times switching between the FiiO and just the normal headphone jack on my pc and couldn't tell to much of a difference. But this is the first decent pair of headphones that I've had. Also I'm not that much of an audiophile yet so I'm not 100% sure what to be listening to in order to tell what good quality is.

u/taylortaudio · 2 pointsr/MatebookXPro

Yep, you can get a small sound card just for a better sound through headphones. Check out this one:

u/FallenAdvocate · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I bought a DAC, I had some case noise before and wanted something to get rid of that and something I could use with my laptop when needed. So I ended up getting this I really like it, and sorry for any formatting problems I'm on my phone.

u/micahz3 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

A similar thread showed up around summer this year that prompted me to up my audio game. At the time I had a Logitech G630 headset and the mic boom stopped staying up so I needed a replacement. It was good luck that I saw that thread! I bought Tascam TH02-B with these replacement pads. Also got Blue Snowball and FiiO E10K DAC. I love my audio setup now!

u/headphones_SS · 2 pointsr/SubredditSimulator

[Ive been looking at the FiiO E10K but was also looking at open back headphones of the same OEM unit under a different brand. Perhaps consider a pair of Panasonic IEM's right now that they're dropping due to discontinuation. I mean I'd be able to hear a difference because the output impedance was that high it would be best to pair with a budget of around $100.

u/LeopardTurret · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I personally use this. It sounds great:

Plus it's an external DAC/Amp, so no risk of electrical interference from an internal soundcard. (not that interference is even that common, but still...)

u/joshmac007 · 2 pointsr/headphones

Hey /r/headphones,

I've been looking for a nice pair of headphones to dive into recently for my first REAL pair of headphones and I've been eyeballing one in particular.

The HE400i. I've read up on reviews on how it has fantastic sound quality and is well worth it but I just wanted a second opinion from users on here. I found them new for $210 on ritzcamera and it looks like a steal. I was also planning on pairing them with the FiiO E10K to power these bad boys.

So should I pull the trigger and buy these?

u/Harry101UK · 2 pointsr/thedivision

I'm using the same headphones as the other 2 guys (HD 650's) and a DAC made a huge difference. I've got a little FiiO and it really added clarity, and punchier bass. Also prevents motherboard noise which I heard occasionally.

u/xFrostbite13x · 2 pointsr/buildapc

this will almost certainly be fixed by getting an external USB DAC. the audio cable in your case is acting like an antenna and picking up electrical noise from the PC's components.
edit: here's a good one:

u/getprank3d · 2 pointsr/HyperX

A (sort of) comprehensive guide on the most popular hyper x headsets

I have alpha and it is good but I had to buy brainwavz hm5 pleather pads because my ears touched the drivers. This is relatively expensive (22.5 us). I also wanted surround, so I got the dongle for the revolver s but it was very staticky so I returned it. Other than that, now the stereo is good, with good clarity because of the dual chamber driver, although you might hear static unless you put it to studio quality in Windows.
They also only come in black and red, and the cable twists up a lot, so I twist tied down the part of it I don't use.

From what I heard, there is more bass on the revolver and revolver s but the headband causes ambient sound absorbtion issues, and the s has surround but again, for me the dongle didn't work, so I'm not sure for you.

My friend has the cloud 2 and he said he gets static with the dongle too, but aside from that, they are basically the alpha but more comfortable without replacement pads, surround sound, extra velour pads in the box, a carrying case and worse sound quality and mic quality then the alpha. These come in black and red, and gunmetal.

The original clouds I don't know much about, but I'm pretty sure they are the same as the cloud 2 without the replacement pads and worse mic and sound quality. Black and red and black and white colors as well

The flights from what I've heard are similar to the alpha, with the same comfort issue (still compatible with brainwavz hm5 pads), wireless, but with some permanent static, because they are wireless a mute on the side of the headphones and good battery life.

The stingers are the best headset for a budget and are basically cloud 1s but with worse everything (build quality, sound and mic) and cost 50 usd.

Other than that, I don't know anything about the cloud core or the cloud x (specifically for Xbox).

If you have the money to spend, (122.5 usd plus tax) I recommend the cloud alpha, the brainwavz hm5 pleather/memory foam pads, and in windows, changing the advanced audio settings to 48 khz studio mode, but take this with a grain of salt.

For reference, the replacement pads all take a few minutes to stretch on to the alphas and flights

Brainwavz hm5 pleather/memory foam link (more comfortable, smaller soundstage then velour, same sound quality as vanilla pads)

Brainwavz hm5 velour pads (better soundstage, less comfortable then pleather/memory foam pads), also a dust magnet

Brainwavz hm5 hybrid pads (not recommended, but in between velour and pleather. It is better to stick with one or the other, this one isn't very good

there is also a sheepskin model, but I don't know if it will stretch well to fit or have sound differences.
Also the angled and circular hm5 pads will not fit, so don't get those.
Sheepskin link

Good luck with the purchase.
Sorry my formatting sucks I'm on mobile.

EDIT: While I was typing this, the other guy described the sound of the alphas, 1s and 2s good, so read that post as well.

u/MooseChamp · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

I use these with mine. I'd say I have a pretty big head to go along with some thick glasses and it only starts to hurt after 4 hours of use. Even then I just take them off for a few seconds and I'm ready to go.

u/veni_vidi_vale · 2 pointsr/headphones

regular hm5 memory foam pads are also on lightning deal sale for $13 right now

u/dstlny_97 · 2 pointsr/HyperX

Slightly yes. I had the Cloud 2's before my Alpha. You can get deeper from HypeeX if you request them, or you can get even deeper through Ebay for like £20 - these

u/Crimtide · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Pretty sure you can buy aftermarket ear pads like these and try them, they might give more padding, more space. Brainwavz replacement ear pads .. I use Brainwavz on my DT990s and they are lots better than the stock ones.

u/epsiblivion · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales
u/KingTacoNomNomNom · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

I️ believe he’s referring to these. I️ upgraded the pads on my M50s as well and these are great.

Brainwavz Replacement Memory Foam Earpads - Suitable For Many Other Large Over The Ear Headphones - AKG, HifiMan, ATH, Philips, Fostex

u/Livehappy_90 · 2 pointsr/PS4

I have the Hyperx Cloud 2 and they would hurt my ears after about 30 mins I guess my ears stick out more than most and they were sitting against the hard part in the headset so I ordered some new ear pads that were a lot thicker and that solved the problem.

These are the replacements.

u/peebeearr · 2 pointsr/HyperX

I use these: They're a bit annoying to initially put on the headphones, but I assure you they do fit, and are waaaay more comfortable.

If you end up using these, I can also give you some EQ settings that make them sound significantly better (in my opinion).

u/PotusThePlant · 2 pointsr/Argaming

No tenes muchas opciones buenas, por un lado tenes estos Sony que son muy conocidos (el cable es no removible lamentablemente) y sino los [Audio Technica M40X] ( A este ultimo lo estoy usando ahora mismo y me parecen muy buenos pero es medio obligatorio cambiarle las almohadillas por algo como esto, se que son medio caras pero son comodisimas. No significa que con las almohadillas stock son inusables pero si son incomodas despues de usarlas un largo rato.

EDIT: Aca tenes un review de los sony y este es uno de los M40x.

EDIT 2: Estuve probando los pads stock para ver que cambiaba en sonido y te digo que a mi me gustan mucho mas con los pads que te puse en el link. El interior de las almohadillas stock me toca la oreja, son mucho mas duras y siento que el sonido es como mucho mas angosto (no se como decirlo, es como que todos los instrumentos estan juntos), tambien los bajos suenan mucho mas fuertes y yo soy de preferir un sonido un poco mas neutral. Dicho eso, los pads HM5 comunes te reducen los bajos (bastante, yo lo subo un poco con ecualizador), aumentan los detalles y te dan mejor separacion y todo esto aparte de ser mucho mas comodos. Te dejo una foto a modo de comparacion (derecha stock, izquierda hm5).

u/GymothyCharles · 2 pointsr/headphones

The Audio Technica ATH M40x is quite popular in that price range, however, they have been recommended with the Brainwavz HM5 Pads. Another option is the Sennheiser Urbanite(On Ear), which is a little bassier than the M40x, but, in my opinion, looks a little nicer. You can also do some browsing around the sub, and visit/comment on the Daily Purchase Advise thread.

Happy hearing!

u/singergiant · 2 pointsr/headphones

I've had my M50x's for like ~1.5 years now and just recently upgraded the earpads to these. definitely worth it.

u/Turquoise_HexagonSun · 2 pointsr/headphones

Here's another set of pads that work well with the 8323.

u/Popcorncandy09 · 2 pointsr/steelseries

Brainwavz Replacement Memory Foam Earpads - Suitable For Many Headphones - AKG, HifiMan, ATH, Philips, Fostex, Grado, Sony ear pad (Black)

Nice and deep, doesn't hurt your ears and comes in loads of colours and materials. Brilliant compared to the factory ones!

u/Oddb411 · 2 pointsr/headphones

How do these compare to the ATH-M40x? I've had those since November and the reviews I read suggested the M40x were more neutral sounding so I went with those. But seeing the M50x go on sale so often for the same price has made me question if I made the right choice in going with the lower end model. For reference, I'm using them with the Brainwavz HM5 pleather ear pads.

u/kevikev · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Not sure how you feel about replacement ear cushions, but supposedly, these work on all of the Arctis series:

u/vkgfx · 2 pointsr/headphones

When I used the HM5 pads that everyone here raved about, I found that it cooled off my ears considerably. The MDR-7506 keeps a very close contact with your ears, whereas these are so big that there's room to breath. These would seem ideal but they're out of stock on Amazon so you might have to look elsewhere.

Pure velour always seems to exacerbate the problem for me. I don't have issues with the HD598 or HD600, but they also have way more roominess than MDR-7506s have. As a direct comparison, I tried some Massdrop velour pads on my M50x in a desperate attempt to make them comfortable, and I found them to be pretty muggy and hot. When I switched to the pleather HM5 pads, they became cooler, more comfortable, and sounded better. The velour on my DT770s actually makes my head hot despite the roominess because there's tons of velour surface area touching your head, so I think the velour HM5 pads might have the same issue but I'd enjoy hearing what someone else says.

For $20 shipped, the pleather HM5 pads are incredible IMO.

u/fuzzypeter · 2 pointsr/gifs

I don't, sorry. But, you can swap the pads out for these, I've heard they can help if you find the original pads to be uncomfortable.

u/danesnick · 2 pointsr/buildapc

To add to this. I'd recommend the M40x over the M50x. On sales, the M40x can get as low as $65 (compared to $99 on a M50x on sale).

The main differences are some of the swiveling features of the ear cups, (90 vs 180 degree rotation), some slightly higher quality materials on the m50x, and more bass on the m50x (while the m40x tend to be more neutral). Overall, you don't lose much in terms of sound quality with the m40x.

They're both horribly uncomfortable for long periods. To fix this, I'd recommend the Brainwavz HM5 pads:

They fit both headphones and make them infinitely more comfortable. You do lose some isolation/bass if that's a concern for you.

That being said, if you live in an environment where you can get away with Openback cans, I'd go with the HD 558/598's over the M40/50x's.

u/gacres57 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I had them on my M50Xs. Got them from Amazon here:

BTW, cute dog :D I quit playing games due to school so thats why I suddenly stopped playing CS a few months ago when we used to play

u/EmperorNarwhale · 2 pointsr/Rainbow6

If you can, get a pair of headphones and a separate microphone. They will blow any "premium gaming headset" out of the water. Gaming headsets are typically closed-back headsets, which limits your sound stage. You'll want a piar of open-back headphones. They also have to cram a lot more inside the headphones which typically results in something being of lower quality.

It seems you're on Xbox one, so you'll need one of the controllers with a 3.5mm headphone jack.

If you're on PS4, you can use the same items I have listed, and if you're on PC you don't need the splitter.

One of the best pair of headphones you can get is this one. The Audio Technica ATH M50x.

Then get an antilion modmic. It attaches right to your headphones with no hassle.

Then get this thing so you can use the headphones and microphone on your xbox one controller. (Yes, it works on Xbox One.)

All you have to do is plug your headphones and microphone into the splitter, and your splitter into your xbox one controller. Way better than a gaming headset, and way cheaper too.

You can even get better earpads for better comfort, if you want.

u/HAPPYSADPERSON · 2 pointsr/headphones
u/mongie- · 2 pointsr/headphones

The ATH-M40x with the pads swapped for the Brainwavz pleather pads are really great even though in price are a good amount under what the 598s normally are. I swap between them and my 598s all the time.

There's quite a bit more bass on the M40x. Highs are somewhat similar, maybe slightly more relaxed on the 598s. I usually use the M40xs for gaming and in loud environments and the 598s when I want my ears to breath (your ears can get hot with no air to go in and out of the can) and just want to have music in the background. I personally like the M40xs more for most music when I want have it in the foreground, but both are great.

u/dasaxguy · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You go on Amazon, spend like 20 dollars on a color you like, and then the headphones become the most comfortable things ever.

u/pizzor · 2 pointsr/PowerMetal

As someone who loves his pair of m50x's, I suggest you try out swapping the ear pads if you haven't already. I've got these ones, and I find they sound quite a bit nicer than the stock ones, if less bassy (which is fine for me as I'm not one for lots of bass). They are also way more comfortable and you don't have to worry about your ears pressing against the inside foam.

u/Grandmastersexsay69 · 2 pointsr/WindowsMR

Headset first then the headphones. I assume you took off the stock headphones? I also use these, they make it a lot more comfortable.

u/Hitorijanae · 2 pointsr/headphones

My suggestion is the Audio Technica ATH-M50x. They're $129 new or $109 refurbished. I'd recommend getting the refurbished because you really should get the Brainwavz Pads as the ones they come with are kinda shitty.

u/creationart · 2 pointsr/headphones

Here you go!

M50x Pads

u/shakeysanchez · 2 pointsr/headphones

I bought these for my PRO700MK2's and I absolutely love them. Totally changed my experience with the headphones.

u/Matix__ · 2 pointsr/ZReviews

Here ya go friend :) Just gonna let you know now that when you get them, it'll seem at first like they won't go on. With a bit of patience they'll fit just fine

u/Rogue11 · 2 pointsr/xboxone

As far as wireless headsets that are surround sound, you have the following compatible with Xbox One:
>Turtle Beach

>* Elite 800X - $299 - Great when it works. I personally had issues with 3 sets and decided it wasn't for me.

  • Stealth 500X - $229 - Model before the 800X. Same 50mm drivers as the 800x basically the same, but without bluetooth compatibility for the phone app and bluetooth audio. This is the wireless solution that I decided was best for me.

    > Astro

    > A50 - $299 - There is an A50 that is out now that is commonly referred to as the "Halo A50." It is the current generation model that comes with the headset stand, base station, etc. It's a great headset that is mostly wireless. For chat, it requires a cord from the headset to the controller.

    A50 (new) - $299 - This version is not out yet, and has been delayed. The biggest difference between the newest model and the previous generation is this model is completely wireless with no cords from the headset required.


    > SteelSeries Siberia X800 - $309 - This wireless headset uses a cord to the controller for voice chat. I am unfamiliar with the headset but it seems like a valid third brand option, in no particular order.

    >Wired Headsets

    > This requires some type of surround sound receiver, headphones, and a mic. There are bundles available from Astro, Turtle Beach, Razer, SteelSeries, etc., but one can obtain better quality by mixing and matching the best of each part: the receiver, the headset, and microphone (if it isn't included in the headset)

    > Surround sound receivers

    > This is pretty much between Astro's Mixamp Pro TR and Turtle Beach's

    Astro's Mixamp Pro TR for XO, PS4, PC and Mac - $130 This is one option for dolby digital 5.1/7.1 surround sound decoding and Dolby Headphone encoding for any standard stereo headset.

    >* Turtle Beach Elite Pro TAC - $199 - This is a second option for DTS surround sound via DTS Headphone:X 7.1 Surround Sound. A lot of options that aren't available on the Mixamp Pro TR are on the Turtle Beach TAC such as being able to adjust background noise, microphone boost and mic monitor levels instantly and physically.

    > Differences between Astro and Turtle Beach They both do a great job at providing situational surround sound to stereo headphones. With the current firmware updates for each respective unit there does seem to be a sound quality difference with a lot of people prefering the Astro. I recommend plugging in headphones and watching this video and hear the differences for yourself: Astro Mixamp Pro TR vs Turtle Beach TAC


    > Some of the best headsets recommended by those on can be read about here. This is where I had come to my selection of the AudioTechnica ATH-AD700.

    > If you would rather buy a wired surround sound headset ready to go out-of-the-box

    > For a wired ready to go set, I'd have to put my money on the Astro A40 Mixamp Pro TR, although I personally prefer open-back headsets instead of sound isolation closed-back headphones.

    If it were me buying a set today...

    I would want something wireless so it would be the newest Astro A50 that comes out in October, or the SteelSeries X800, but then again, it is because I've went down the wired path, using a mixamp or DSS with many different wired headphones and mics. Even if I didn't have cord-loving cats, I'm glad that I have a wireless headset. It really is a personal preference that you can't really pin down, until you try some yourself.

    A side note: I have an average sized head, but larger than average protruding ears. Every headset I've purchased, I've swapped out the earcups with aftermarket sets. Most notably brainwavz HM5 earups. They are deeper and more comfortable for me and have worked on most sets of headphones without modification. I highly recommend them. They come in Pleather - various colors, Hybrid pleather + Velour, and just Velour
u/EinTheVariance · 2 pointsr/headphones

hmm, I have both of those for years now and never had this issue even with extensive usage (for a period of time, I had been using them for 6+ hours a day, even 12+ hours on weekends). I don't think there's anything you can with the Logitech pair, but I replaced the Steelseries earpads right away as they were too shallow for me and hurt my ears.

Replacing the Steelseries pads is no different than replacing it on other common headphones. You just pop them off and slip the new pads on. There is even a notch on the plastic cup so it's even easier to do than other headphones.

I use these on them:
They also have pleather versions of you don't like velor or don't want to be arsed with cleaning the lint off the velor from time to time, but it is definitely cooler (temperature wise) and a lot more comfortable than the pleather version.

Anyway, they are a little tight (don't be afraid to apply force when putting these pads on) but fit perfectly without any trimming or anything. As I've said, all you have to do is use the notch on the cup and just spin the lip of the pad on the cup. If you are having issues, I suppose I could do a video or something, but should be simple enough.

EDIT: oh, and as for your headband, there are "replacements" for those too that you can snap over like these:

u/Urano_Metria · 2 pointsr/pcgaming

I use these, and they've been awesome.

u/chouetteonair · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

My recommendation is /r/headphones, but while you're here check out the Sony MDR-V6 ($76) with replacement pads ($24.50) for comfort. I don't know how it'll do for sound whoring, but it looks like they've been a staple for decades in studio work.

Closed-back, over ear, fixed coiled 10' cable (this is long, really long), and pretty well recommended from the looks of things. It looks like these headphones are more expensive right now than usual though.

I use the Sennheiser 558 (was $80, seems to be getting replaced), but they're open backed (great for music but with non-existant isolation).

u/pmjm · 2 pointsr/HeadphoneAdvice

From what I'm reading, the AKG's could use a bit of a boost in the highs, so that might actually be a functional replacement in addition to comfort.

I love cloth/velour pads because after 30 minutes or so I start sweating with plastic/pleather, making things very uncomfortable and getting the headphones extremely dirty after a couple of weeks. So thanks again for this info as it's definitely something to consider.

Do you think these brainwavz would work on the Pioneers?