Best audio & video crossover parts according to redditors

We found 65 Reddit comments discussing the best audio & video crossover parts. We ranked the 23 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Audio & Video Crossover Parts:

u/blde999 · 17 pointsr/arduino

I had that issue with a DS1307 connected to an ESP32, I switched it out for a DS3231 and with its temperature compensation precision, I haven't noticed any drift over the last couple of weeks.

The ds1307 I was using, like yours picked up a minute even after 1 day of use.

u/Hotrian · 9 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Not OP but I have a bunch of these hooked up and I’ve never had any issues with them. You don’t have to pay much :/.

I have some hooked up to an hdmi audio extractor with an RCA -> AUX cable into my PC’s Microphone port, which I have set to ‘Listen To’ in Windows 10, so any audio coming from the HDMI source gets routed through my PC. $35 vs ~$150 for OPs capture card method :P. Though, if your motherboard or sound card support SPDIF input, you should use that instead (this extractor does both).

u/plane_wave · 4 pointsr/diyaudio

/u/IsItTheFrankOrBeans is correct, but he/she fails to explain completely. In one of the images you show there is an RCA connector labeled COAX, that like an optical cable carries a digital audio signal, but instead of doing it with light it does it over metal conductors.

What you need is a Coax to Toslink (optical cable) converter, such as: https://www.amazon.com/Optical-Tendak-Bi-directional-Splitter-Converter/dp/B06XCTGZFT/

You'll also need cables!

You can use a RCA cable to plug into the adapter if that's all you have, but it would be recommended to buy one that is labeled as Coax as these have more shielding than a standard RCA cable.

Does that all make sense?

u/Arve · 4 pointsr/audiophile

There's no easy way to do this with good (Or should I say "controllable") results

  1. I'd guess that your sub only has a low-pass filter, which is why they didn't bother with line-level outputs
  2. Your interface does not have a crossover

    This means that you have two approaches:

    The first approach is to use a simple RCA splitter from the line out of your interface, and run one pair of cables to the sub, and one pair to the speakers. In this case, you'd typically want to set the crossover frequency on your sub to 80 Hz, calibrate the levels of the AV-40's and the sub. After calibration, you can start toying with the crossover frequency, in case there is a hole in the response between 80 and 100 Hz.

    The better approach is to throw money at the problem and get an external crossover like the Behringer CX2310 (plus three pairs of XLR to RCA cables), jam the crossover frequency on the sub all the way up to 160, and instead set the frequency lower on the Behringer. Two advantages of this approach

  3. The AV-40's will, now that they are relieved of trying to amplify bass and play it, going to have an easier time, and should sound both better and more clear
  4. Getting rid of the potential hole or bump in the frequency response you get is going to be a lot easier.

    In either of my two alternatives, you need to forget that the volume controls on your speakers and sub are no longer volume controls, but merely used for calibration.
u/AzusMobo · 3 pointsr/diysound

I mean, that is what a crossover does. You dont have to remove the dac or bypass it at all. You just want a low pass filter from the sounds of it. Something like this perhaps? Not sure of your whole setup though, if you put a low pass on the speaker with something like this which is a cross over, just for low end. No personal experience with either of those items specifically btw. Good luck on your adventure!

u/cosmothekleekai · 3 pointsr/CozyPlaces

Please do! Everyone deserves such a cozy den.

The one pictured is the "IC200B PICO Projector" (latest here).

Pros: What you see pictured.
Cons: The fan is a bit loud, I'm going to 3d print a noise shield/holster for it to hold it in place and deflect the fan sound back behind the bed frame. Oh and the annoying built-in speaker, I picked up some HDMI audio splitter ('mirrors' audio signal to audio output type of your choosing) to deal with it. I go chromecast > HDMI audio splitter > projector for video, then chromecast > HDMI audio splitter > speaker amp for audio. It doesn't remove the audio from the HDMI signal so a tiny bit still gets to the projector, but I can easily jack the audio amp up and it drowns out any/all sound from the projector.

u/deplorable-d00d · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

You would need a crossover in the middle to feed the highs to the monitor's amps and the lows to the sub's amp

https://www.amazon.com/rolls-SX45-Tiny-Stereo-Crossover/dp/B00102VWJK/

If you want to keep it balanced, use a "pro" audio crossover:

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-CX2310-BEHRINGER-SUPER-X-PRO/dp/B0002Z82LM/

or a "pro" equalizer with subwoofer outputs -

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-FBQ1502HD-BEHRINGER-ULTRAGRAPH-PRO/dp/B013JLZMZE

(I use "pro" in quotes, because Behringer is the cheapest bottom of the barrel "pro" company. Generally used by DJs or small mobile / live PA scenarios and not really in high-end recording studio environments). But they are perfectly fine to use. I've built a few budget systems with their components with no issues whatsoever.

-

Alternatively, pick up a proper studio monitor sub - they usually include an active crossover inside the sub, allowing you to run your full range signal directly into the sub (unbalanced or balanced), where it splits the lows to the sub's internal amp and sends a highpass back out to the mains. (Many have a bypass foot switch so you can click off the sub and run the mains full range again when you want.) - but you generally won't find these under $400.

-

EDIT - Someone found one!

https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=115&cp_id=11504&cs_id=1150401&p_id=605999&seq=1&format=2

u/bwaredapenguin · 3 pointsr/rocksmith

I just got one of these for me home theater setup because my tv isn't capable of 5.1 passthrough and my roku doesn't have a dedicated audio out. They work great (I had another one for a couple years until it crapped out). I'd say it's worth a shot. The lag you get over HDMI through the TV is usually from the TV processing the audio, I'd imagine just splitting the signal shouldn't introduce any noticable delay.

u/ssl-3 · 2 pointsr/diysound

Hah. Well... I tried. Here's another shot:

https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-TOSLINK-Digital-Optical-Switcher/dp/B00G188Z7A

https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Digital-Analog-Decoder-VHD-51CAD/dp/B00MSD26TK

This gets you three optical inputs, DD/DTS decoding, 5.1 analog out, a volume control, and (two) remote control.

No idea about getting these things to Croatia, but like much of the China product at this end of the spectrum there are equivalent (perhaps identical) items sold under many different names.

u/TemptedTemplar · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

You can use an audio extractor, or find a way to directly connect your speakers to your monitor.

u/oddsnsodds · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I doubt you have a sound card; you're probably using the motherboard audio, and yes, it sounds bad. So bad.

Does your monitor have speakers or an audio jack? The HDMI to your monitor carries audio. If the monitor doesn't have any way to play audio, you can use an HDMI audio extractor; that might sound better.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01KYURMEW/

u/dj_soo · 2 pointsr/DJs

maybe this one? https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-CX2310-BEHRINGER-SUPER-X-PRO/dp/B0002Z82LM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542149070&sr=8-3&keywords=behringer+crossover

for the amp, you don't necessarily need to get a 2000 watt amp as the 2000 watts it's rated for is the peak, but you just have to make sure you don't send a clipped signal to the sub or you risk damaging it (it's where a limiter will help).

Honestly, when you add up the cost of the sub, the amp, and the crossover - not to mention a limiter, you might be better off returning the passive sub and just grabbing their powered version - https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/B1800XP--behringer-b1800xp-3000w-18-inch-powered-subwoofer

It's $300 more, and will include a built in crossover, a built in limiter, and a built in amp and it's rated much louder than the passive version and much easier to setup and run. You literally just plug the mixer into the sub, run the high pass outputs to the speakers, adjust the volumes so everything sounds balanced, and you're good to go.

u/regreddit · 2 pointsr/CarAV

Yes, you will need a passive crossover to run a sub and those speakers from a 2 channel amp. Is the sub a single voice coil? To put it another way, does it have a single pair of speaker wire connectors? If so, then your options are somewhat limited, BUT you could run the 6.5" speakers full range, then put a low-pass crossover on the sub, like this: http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-100-Pass-Crossover/dp/B004GE68N4/ will pass the low frequencies < 100 Hz to your sub. I'm not saying to buy that one, you will need to to buy that matches your sub's impedance (8,4,2 ohms)

u/Umlautica · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I'd consider the following:

  • miniDSP 2x4 - $105
  • BEHRINGER CX2310 - $80

    But your're right, there's not much out there. There is also the PFMOD which is $50 but a bit of a wildcard due to the lack of buffering which makes it susceptible to changes due to source and load impedance.
u/scottymoze · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Sounds like a potential issue is that the sound coming out of the optical output of the TV, which may only be 2.0 or 2.1, rather than 5.1. I have this problem with my TV.

You can instead use the optical outputs of each device and send them to an adapter that accepts multiple optical inputs, which then sends the audio off to one optical output based on the input you select. Here's some examples after very quick searching on Amazon (I would definitely search around Amazon/Google a lot more, if you can find one that has more reviews and/or best sellers):

https://www.amazon.com/Portta-APET0403T-Toslink-Digital-Optical/dp/B00SX0QKGM/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1480443591&sr=1-3&keywords=dual+optical+input

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IP8IQOU?psc=1

I imagine they make better ones with remote capabilities also. In fact at least one of these has an IR Extender port which might be used for remote capabilities, not 100% sure though. Not sure if this works for you but it might be an option, and these devices should preserve the 5.1. :)

EDIT: found one with a remote!
https://www.amazon.com/Portta-APET0301T-Toslink-Switcher-Dolby-AC3/dp/B00KDZEWWO/ref=pd_cp_23_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00KDZEWWO&pd_rd_r=YZV7EBB60HT6Y3N3397R&pd_rd_w=IOYG5&pd_rd_wg=WfBLB&psc=1&refRID=YZV7EBB60HT6Y3N3397R

...and some others.

https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-TOSLINK-Digital-Optical-Switcher/dp/B00G188Z7A/ref=pd_cp_23_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00G188Z7A&pd_rd_r=YZV7EBB60HT6Y3N3397R&pd_rd_w=IOYG5&pd_rd_wg=WfBLB&psc=1&refRID=YZV7EBB60HT6Y3N3397R

https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Digital-Optical-Control-Toslink/dp/B00HTYBPPY/ref=pd_cp_23_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00HTYBPPY&pd_rd_r=YZV7EBB60HT6Y3N3397R&pd_rd_w=IOYG5&pd_rd_wg=WfBLB&psc=1&refRID=YZV7EBB60HT6Y3N3397R

u/applevinegar · 2 pointsr/audiophile

The cheapest solution is to use the sub's high level inputs and outputs: run wires from the amp to the sub's high level inputs, and then from its outputs to the speakers.

This won't be ideal though, because the main speakers will still play the low frequencies at the same time of the subwoofer, forcing you to cross the subwoofer at the speaker's natural rolloff, which defeats half the purpose of a sub (relieving the main speakers of bass duty to improve their performance) and resulting in an uneven frequency response.

To solve this problem, you have to get an active crossover that will divide the frequencies between the speakers and subwoofer, like this or, even better, a miniDSP which requires a bit of configuration but works amazingly and offers the bonus of room correction.

This will limit your inputs to a single one though, because the signal will have to first go to the XO and then the amp and sub.

But, is your PC your only source? If it is, this won't be a problem. Then again, is it a desktop? If it is, you could use the internal sound card (which is generally 7.1) to drive the subwoofer directly and use the computer as a software crossover, see this guide.

u/ErantyInt · 2 pointsr/RetroPie

Cheapest is probably going to be something like this, 1080p to 1080p audio splitter.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSX36H7/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_3Ev3DbRFE7YK4

u/armousse · 2 pointsr/audio

May I recommend a cost effective solution? Normally I would recommend the use of an Outlaw Audio ICBM, however it has been discontinued.

Here'ss the Behringer equivalent.
I know, its crap but it will work.

cheap

u/revjeremyduncan · 2 pointsr/audiophile

The 3.5mm output on the Chromecast Audio also doubles as a mini Toslink (digital optical) output. You are probably more familiar with the regular size Toslink digital output that is more common. Here is an adapter that takes you from mini Toslink to Toslink.

If your DAC only accepts a Coax digital input, though, you will need to take that a step further with something like this that converts from Toslink to Coax.

I have not used either of these products, specifically, and therefore cannot attest to their quality or performance. You may want to research their quality and/or consider similar alternatives from other manufactures. I just wanted to provide you with some examples.

Personally, I use just CCA with 3.5mm to RCA analog output right into my amp, and find its internal DAC decent enough for my purposes.

u/Child_0f_at0m · 2 pointsr/projectors

You might be asking for this:
https://www.amazon.com/DotStone-Extractor-Splitter-Optical-Converter/dp/B01KYURMEW/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1491533298&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=hdmi+audio+extractor&psc=1

Notice it has Hdmi output as well.

Im not an AV guy, but I would guess you cannot play on two hdmi ports from your switcher, even if it had two outputs.

edit: please note i do not endorse this product or its counterparts in anyway, it just seems like the solution OP is looking for.

u/e60deluxe · 2 pointsr/hometheater

cant tell for sure but it seems like your system does not have a surround decoder. you would need a decoder to go from the digital out to 6x Analog out.

something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Digital-Decoder-Control-Support/dp/B00MSD26TK/

u/2old2care · 2 pointsr/audio

This converter should work fine for you. It's convenient because it can be USB powered and most TV sets have USB connectors for that purpose.

u/ThelloD · 2 pointsr/Vive

Maybe we can find some cheaper earpads, since the original AKG ones are rather expensive compared to the headphone.

On amazon.de i found these and also these. I don't know how good they really are but about 5€ might be worth a try.

u/starkimpossibility · 2 pointsr/audiophile

No that's not a crossover. It won't help you. This is a crossover, for example. But if you say something about your source/s I can recommend something more specific.

u/ZeosPantera · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Skip the polk. A Dayton Sub-1000 will serve you better. Splitting the RCA won't halve the volume but it may fall a db or two from just power loss. The issue is you will still be sending full range to the AV40's since most subs don't provide RCA passive cutoffs. This isn't the worst thing but hard to avoid without buying a fully active crossover like this.

u/ApocApollo · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

I decided to just buy this.

I'm not sure how I'll go about changing from PC to Switch on my monitors but at least this way, I won't have to use the terrible speakers on my monitor.

edit - Actually I canceled it after I realized I could just use the headphone jack while the Switch is docked.

u/PrometheusO79 · 1 pointr/headphones

I posted this in pcmasterrace as well and finally got a solution. Credit goes to /u/BillTheCommunistCat but he said this.

"

I think you want something like this which is bidirectional

https://www.amazon.com/Optical-Tendak-Bi-Directional-Converter-Splitter/dp/B06XCTGZFT

Your mobo has SPDIF (coax) output so just get one of those cables to go from the PC to converter.

"

u/karazax · 1 pointr/4kTV

There are HDMI switches which might work.

Would something like this or this accomplish what you want?

u/youalreadyknowhoitis · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

all good, it actually has spdif coaxial and not toslink unfortunately :(

would using a 3.5mm to 2RCA and connecting it to this work?
https://imgur.com/lCgsc1Q

or should i just buy this
https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B06XCTGZFT/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3B4LLV7B4EQYR&psc=1

and go amp>toslink>converter>coaxial>tv?

u/Skitch_n_Sketch · 1 pointr/Zeos

SVS SB1000 a good match for Airmotiv 6s nearfield? Currently have an XDA-2 and I'd buy a Behringer for crossover. My rooms 11x13.

u/CSFFlame · 1 pointr/pcgamingtechsupport

> Is there a way to set it so that it can be better quality?
>
> I'm thinking my next option is buying an external USB sound card.

That's correct.

The sound quality will be atrocious, yes

Make sure you're in line in-mode and not mic mode on the computer.

See if you can adjust the monitor's outbound volume (down probably) to avoid clipping.

You'd need an HDMI sound extractor (spdif) to a sound card that supports spdif in.

Digital doesn't have that quality issue. The problem is if there is audio delay. Anything ASIO ready should not do that.

Edit (like this, 1080p, no HDCP, so turn that off on your PS4): https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-Optical-Splitter-Converter-Chromecast/dp/B01MSX36H7/

You'll need a soundcard that supports toslink in.

u/Claraval23 · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

I am concerned that I am missing something using the TV digital output. Or am I just stupid? Like, chromecast process HDMI digital audio, then the TV changes the signal to optical and then gets into the DAC of the amplifier. Maybe there is some quality loss during that journey. But maybe it is totally irrelevant.

I will check that Emby. Seems convenient. And the Poweramp too.

Maybe getting this is worth it? HDMI to optical

u/super_not_clever · 1 pointr/audio

Yup, just one more RCA connection in there:

laptop 3.5mm -> RCA -> Digital Converter -> RCA -> 3.5mm speaker input

Hmmm, so the issue I'm having is that, again, my assumption is that the speakers are looking for a signal over digital coax. If we want to use your optical output, we certainly could, but I believe this will actually cost a little more money, and be less universal, since you'd only be able to plug in the Macbook.

If that's the path you wanted to go, you'd get something like this

Macbook -> Mini-TOSLINK/TOSLINK cable -> Digital Converter -> RCA/3.5mm cable -> speaker input

I wish there were some way to test my theory without buying a bunch of adapters and crossing our fingers...

u/6months23days · 1 pointr/headphones

If you want to be super cheap and don't mind some ghetto-rigging you always have the sock mod.

The favorites from what I remember of the time I spent digging for mod info on my 668b/SR850 were the AKG K240/270 pads (Headroom - Thomann) though the official ones cost more than the headphones them selves. The Beyerdynamic Velour Pads that net-force mentioned look pretty comparable though. Hell of a lot cheaper as well.

The Leather Sound Blaster pads were popular as well, can't seem to find them for sale anymore sadly.

I've seen pics of the Beyer pad you linked stretched to fit as well, but they apparently affect the sound in a negative way. Don't remember how exactly though.

u/net-force · 1 pointr/headphones

I use these with my akg k240, didn't come with foam so I used the foam that came included stock.

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Replacement-DT770-DT551-DT880/dp/B00C3BEREY/

The hifiman velour pads roughly the same as the above pads, stiff foam but has a small piece of fabric.

http://www.moon-audio.com/diy-audio-parts/accessories/hifiman-velour-replacement-earpads.html

The top of the line stuff is really the akg k70x pads but are crazy expensive, $27.50 individually.

http://www.moon-audio.com/diy-audio-parts/accessories/akg-k701-k702-earpad.html

The beyedynamic ear pads are really nice soft foam on the inside. I might switch out the my beyerdynamic pads for my hifiman velour pads if most of my beyer foam wasn't dead.

u/MrMiyamoto · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

There are dozens of different boxes you can get off of Amazon that extract the HDMI audio to optical, this one for example has good reviews:

https://www.amazon.com/DotStone-Extractor-Splitter-Optical-Converter/dp/B01KYURMEW/

u/acr_vp · 1 pointr/audiophile

or buy an audio extractor like one of these https://www.amazon.com/DotStone-Extractor-Splitter-Optical-Converter/dp/B01KYURMEW/ which just gives the added benefit of being able to listen with the tv off.

u/joeapes_syf · 1 pointr/audiophile

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-CX2310-BEHRINGER-SUPER-X-PRO/dp/B0002Z82LM/ref=pd_sbs_23_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KW33VG6QFHEH815RRK7K would this be an acceptable one? What cables would I need to hook up to this crossover. Really struggling sorry.

u/IcyKettle · 1 pointr/sonos

Does your TV have optical out? Not sure if your solution would work or not, but a possible alternative would be optical-to-coax adapters, which are pretty cheap. But you'd have to adapt the standard F-connector to RCA on both ends, plus use the optical-to-HDMI adapter that Sonos sells on the Amp end.

Convoluted, I know. But might work if the HDMI over coax solution doesn't. Plus, it'd be less $$.

Cheers.

u/zombieranger · 1 pointr/Vive

I'm no audiophile myself but the sound for me is fine and from my research before purchasing superlux are highly regarded at giving excellent quality at a low price.
I don't know much again about surround sound but I've had no issues playing any games which require you to have audio awareness (space pirate trainer, holopoint). I've always been able to tell where the enemies are coming from.
I also bought these 1 Pair of Replacement Ear Pads Cushions for DT770 DT551 DT880 DT990 DT531 DT801 DT440 DT660---Black https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00C3BEREY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_etcDxbPX6GPGRfor them as a lot of people recommended it for comfort. I didn't think the original ones were bad but these are a bit more comfortable.

u/SmittyJonz · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

I thought you meant rca outputs. What tv model is it ? It has a single digital audio out, other than hdmi - no optical ? No other output ? No analog output - rca, 3.5 ?

Guess you could run one of these - digital coax to box, optical to amp

https://www.amazon.com/VANDESAIL-Optical-Coaxial-Converter-Bi-Directional/dp/B07CKZCHX5/ref=asc_df_B07CKZCHX5/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309750549985&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14605002973781719177&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027208&hvtargid=pla-567985929336&psc=1

I Hate how Reddit comments work / I can’t find where you said what tv you had and the other guy said you have Reg optical output. He also said you have rca out puts - so an optical cable would work or rca to 3.5 mm would work ( rca End On tv, 3.5 mm end on amp.

u/clupean · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'm not sure I understood everything but since you don't have the space for 5.1 wouldn't it be cheaper and easier to simply use bookshelf speakers with and optical input with the optical audio switcher? With 3 optical inputs, you can plug your PC, the Roku and there's still one free. Those speakers also have 2 analog inputs for 2 more analog devices.

u/Clavo_PR · 1 pointr/PS4

DotStone HDMI Audio Extractor Splitter HDMI to HDMI + Optical Audio TOSLINK SPDIF +Digital Analog RCA L / R Stereo Audio Splitter Converter(HDMI Input,HDMI+ Toslink/Digital Analog Audio Output) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KYURMEW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hXJkzbFB9SD3S

u/Gand41f · 1 pointr/Zeos

Thank you Zeos for the RBH R5BIR video review (btw, link missing on this page currently). In that video you mentioned setting the crossover in your receiver but what about those that don't have this capability?

I have an Emotiva PT-100 stereo preamp. I don't believe the PT-100 has that capability (unless I'm mistaken). Is there an alternate solution for this? Perhaps something like the Behringer Super-X Pro Cx2310 or one of the Rolls crossovers (SX21 or SX45)? But for lower end equipment is this even worth it? Perhaps a cheaper solution is available? Or, by "just deal with it" should I conclude that bass management is simply not a thing for stereo-only systems?

Anyway, thanks for the video. If you have any video or material that covers setting the crossover point in your receiver (primarily covering what you do in situations where your electronics doesn't support it) I'd definitely be interested to see it.

u/ocinn · 1 pointr/audiophile

I hear the "PFMod" (adjustable) is an improvement.

Honestly for $25 more, I would just pick up this:

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-CX2310-BEHRINGER-SUPER-X-PRO/dp/B0002Z82LM/

u/aManPerson · 1 pointr/audiophile

not sure how much it will help, but here goes. the amp will have 3 cords coming out: left, right, ground. left goes to left speaker, right goes to right, and ground goes to both. who goes to the sub?

you would need a low pass filter. im not sure if you'd combine the left and right wires, then go into the filter (someone else is going to have to chime in). after that, you'll need a low pass filter, so you are only telling the woofer to play low notes. you'd also have ground go to the woofer.

this MIGHT be what you're looking for:
http://www.amazon.com/100-Low-Pass-Ohm-Crossover/dp/B004GE68N4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1334952064&sr=8-1

edit: or this http://www.amazon.com/Pyramid-CR66-Electronic-Pass-Crossover/dp/B000A8B1TG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1334952064&sr=8-2

u/OfficalEnvy · 1 pointr/CarAV

3 Way Frequency Divider 200W HiFi Audio Speaker Treble Midrange Bass 3 Units Crossover Filters https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DS69PKW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cuO0Bb8E3N89S


If was thinking something like this

u/MOODYS_BOOTYSMOOTHIE · 1 pointr/hometheater

It can be tricky getting things to work with optical. Is your receiver showing DD5.1 or DTS 5.1 or is it saying PCM or prologic/neo etc? Some will output only lossless formats, which the cable will not support. In this case it could be the receiver is only accepting PCM stereo.

As homeboi808 stated: PS4 and XB1 will support DD5.1 with optical. A HDMI Audio splitter like THIS can help you with your reciever too.

u/TheBigBadDuke · 1 pointr/audio

You could get an audio interface that has spdif like this one.
https://focusrite.com/usb-audio-interface/scarlett/scarlett-6i6
Then get a toslink to spdif like this one
Optical to Coax, Tendak Optical SPDIF Toslink to Coaxial and Coaxial to Optical SPDIF Toslink Bi-Directional Swtich Digital Audio Converter Splitter Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XCTGZFT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qbbzCb2TFMTYG

u/cr0ft · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

If the amp has no built-in lowpass filters, then all you'll get is a full range signal from the speaker outs you want to drive the sub from. Otherwise you could have used a miniDSP to split the signal before the amp and send the low frequencies only to a sub. There are even simple passive units you can put on the low level before any amplification, like https://www.amazon.com/FMOD-Crossover-Pair-Low-Pass/dp/B0006N41EM

But if you want to use that amp you do have to put the low pass filter on the speaker cables but before the sub (or inside the sub, by all means) - https://www.amazon.com/Qianson-Subwoofer-Crossover-Second-order-Distributor/dp/B01IZ6OBAA something along those lines.

Alternatively, use your amp for the speakers in 2 channel mode and add something like a Crown XLS https://www.crownaudio.com/en/products/xls-1002 - the reason I mention that is that those are very smart, can be bridged, and they have built in low- and high pass filter options. So you can send a full range signal to the amp, and it will cut out the highs itself. That way all you have to do is split the input after the pre-amp (assuming you have a pre-amp) and send the same signal to both amps.

u/Viper0201 · 1 pointr/PS4

Like the others said you can connect your speakers to your monitor in case it has an audio output. You could also use a HDMI Audio Extractor with an additional hdmi cable and an adapter like this one to connect your speakers to the extractor.

u/brandondesign · 1 pointr/playstation

HDMI Optical Converter Amazon

I know it was kind of a jerk answer but he wasn't wrong about Googling it. First result was this one on Amazon and the great reviews, many say works as a solution to their PS4. My Astro headphones need an optical too (likely what you have), they plug in via USB for chat and accept the optical as the surround sound audio. Seems like it should work for your case.

PS: this is why I opted to upgrade to the Pro, needed the optical port.

u/AzzySSB · 1 pointr/smashbros

There's no good way to do it honestly.

Theoretically the best way would be to use RCA cables (Wii Composite) and convert to 3.5mm and amp it, but WiiU's don't have that on by default.

You could also use the headphone jack on a monitor/Gamepad and amp it as needed, but that can be inconsistent by monitor/TV

The way to garuntee getting audio at every setup is to get an HDMI audio extractor and run it through a headphone amp if you need some extra volume

u/Weregamer1168 · 1 pointr/headphones

https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-Momentum-Wireless-Active-Cancellation/dp/B00SNI44CQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1481862310&sr=8-4&keywords=sennheiser+headphones+wireless
I bought these wanting a headphone that I can bring out and about but also be able to wire in and use for pc gaming. The problem is that in scouring the internet I haven't found a fix for getting the onboard mics to work with a pc. Does anyone have any experience with this or have any advice? I have already tried to use a splitter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M4Q7U60/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it didn't work.

u/mikelieman · 0 pointsr/audioengineering

What you're looking for, in audio terms, is a "crossover", which takes the input, and splits it into low frequency and high frequency parts. Run the low frequency side to the subs, and the high frequency side to the monitors.

Behringer makes one.