Best automotive books according to redditors

We found 1,475 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive books. We ranked the 514 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Automotive:

u/Ole_Gil · 125 pointsr/motorcycles

Congrats on the Babigale and living down your dream!

Reality check: plenty of power is an understatement. Like others have said, your age group and situation is one of the most accident prone. If you are gonna cruise to starbucks every third Sunday, then you probably don't need much more than a basic rider course.

I'll tell you from experience that an 899 is an incredible motorcycle. The engine is good, but it's the chassis that is unbelievable. You already own the bike, it would be a sin not find out what it can do when pressed, because it shreds. Do yourself a ginormous favor and start doing some track-day schools. DON'T try to go be Rossi Sr. on the street, you will either mame/kill yourself or never improve because the learning curve is too steep. Also Twist of the Wrist I and II are must haves. Sport Riding Techniques by Nick Ientasch is another great read.

https://www.amazon.com/Sport-Riding-Techniques-Develop-Confidence/dp/1893618072/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499826120&sr=8-1&keywords=sport+riding+techniques

https://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-Motorcycle-Roadracers-Handbook/dp/0965045013/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499826148&sr=8-2&keywords=twist+of+the+wrist

https://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-Vol-High-Performance-Motorcycle/dp/0965045021/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499826174&sr=8-1&keywords=twist+of+the+wrist

Lastly, the best way to get back at the people who call it a mid-life crisis is to become a proficient motorcyclist.

u/nutteh · 72 pointsr/formula1

Fail button is to deselect the menu options on the LCD Display

Source: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Red-Bull-Racing-Manual-Championship-winning/dp/0857330993
Screenshot from mine:
http://i.imgur.com/a6MDY.jpg

u/ochaos · 49 pointsr/projectcar

When I had my first beetle I was a big fan of How to Keep you VW Alive - Step by step for the complete idiot. Mostly because I was an idiot mechanically back then.

u/GaryTheClam · 40 pointsr/cars

You can sub to channels like Engineering Explained. /Drive also had a small series where they brought in different people from different areas of cars to give their input. They had exhaust people, engine builders, turbo specialists, etc.

Engineering Explained

Drive Playlist

I started reading this by Tom Newton. Once I read the entire thing I then started to research into each category specifically.

u/chunkyks · 30 pointsr/motorcycles

Realise that it's not actually going to kill you and be on your way. It's actually not a super significant amount of wind, it just feels like it is.

Also, buy Proficient Motorcycling

u/1Operator · 28 pointsr/simracing

There are lots of resources available for learning/improvement:
DrivingFast.net
TurnFast.com
Skip Barber - Going Faster (YouTube video)
iRacing Racing School (YouTube video playlist)
Simpit Driving School - Weight Transfer (YouTube video)
Driver61 - Driver's University (YouTube video playlist)
Safe is Fast (YouTube channel)
• "Performance Driving Illustrated" by Ross Bentley (PDF e-book)
• "Ultimate Speed Secrets: The Complete Guide to High-Performance and Race Driving" by Ross Bentley (book)

Also consider doing some recon for the particular track(s) & car(s) you're practicing: searching YouTube for a track name (like "Brands Hatch") along with keywords like "track guide" or "hot lap" or "world record," plus maybe the name of the car or class you're practicing with (like "GT3"), and possibly even the name of a game/sim (like "Project CARS 2") will often provide a list of videos showing how faster drivers attack the track. If you observe those videos closely & pay attention to things like when they brake, when they turn in, where they apex, etc., you will likely pick up some clues on how to improve your own lap times.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=%22Project+CARS+2%22+%22Brands+Hatch%22+GT3+%22hot+lap%22+OR+%22world+record%22+OR+%22track+guide%22

Coordinating the timing between inputs requires awareness & precision, and it can all happen so fast at every turn:
• when/if to brake
• how hard to brake
• how long to brake
• when to turn in
• where to apex
• where to track-out
• when to get back on the throttle
• how much throttle
...etc. Those are the types of variables to experiment with to improve lap times, and all of those variables can change depending on which car you're driving, what conditions you're driving in, how other cars around you affect your line, etc.

...And, of course, there's no shortcut or substitute for lots of quality practice.

Good luck & have fun!

u/SOMUCHFRUIT · 26 pointsr/Whatcouldgowrong

Glad someone said this! I read proficient motorcycling when I started riding, and these stats really stuck out to me. Another thing was how there is a steady drop-off in accidents as a rider becomes more experienced with time, and then there is a sharp rise around the 2-year mark. Essentially, riders become complacent.

Also, in said multi-vehicle accidents, most of the time it's a car turning across an intersection that doesn't notice the bike coming.

Ride safe!

Edit: Also, I can't believe someone downvoted you :/

u/ravenspurple · 23 pointsr/suggestmeabook

I have no suggestions but wanted to let you know this post felt so full of love. Keep it up Mama. I teach middle and high school kids and it’s a rough time. If he’s into building cars, why not get him a book related to that? Something on mechanical engineering? How Cars Work by Tom Newton looks good. how cars work

u/elkster88 · 23 pointsr/motorcycles

Great advice.

Just be aware- what is taught in the basic rider course is the most basic elementary stuff. It's also not really everything you need to know- it's just enough to give you a fighting chance of not being killed immediately, and hopefully gives you a solid starting point to improve your skills.

It takes conscious effort to learn riding techniques, and it takes continuous practice to improve. Simply putting on miles without understanding that you need to put focused effort into improving will get you miles under your belt without developing superior skills. Staying alive on the street is a combination of riding skill and observation & planning skills. Some of this you can learn from books, I recommend David L. Hough's books "Proficient Motorcycling" and "Mastering the Ride: More Proficient Motorcycling", and also his "Street Strategies: A Survival Guide for Motorcyclists" book.

And there are many others who have written good books on riding, but those are the ones I own. When my wife and later our kids decided to ride, those are the books I strongly recommended to them.

Take more formal instruction after you have a little experience on the street. The MSF advanced rider course, or a dirt bike school, a police motor office course, anything with a pro instructor. Track days can be good too, if there is good instruction and coaching available. Right now, you don't really know what you don't know.

u/PriceZombie · 23 pointsr/LifeProTips

Thanks =)

Also I recommend Twist of the Wrist II. The DVD is entertaining in a "Vanilla Ice 1980's" sort of way.

u/[deleted] · 21 pointsr/AskReddit

If you have the spare cash, buy what's commonly referred to the idiot book.

Even though you may not own or even have any interest in owning an air-cooled VW, there's a lot of good information in here and it explains a lot about what generally goes into working on your own car.

It especially covers tools really well so if you have no idea what a feeler gauge or puller is or how you use them, it's great for that. The Haynes and Bentley books assume that you have some prior knowledge of tools and stuff and the VW book assumes that you have literally no clue.

It's also a very amusing book to read.

u/sebwiers · 17 pointsr/AskEngineers

Your missing that bicycle spokes are loaded purely in tension. Section modulous and moment of area aren't terms I know (am bike mechanic and motorcycle customizer, not engineer) but i suspect the apply in resisting twist, flex, and buckling. None of those can happen to a spoke in a properly built wheel, they are all under tension.

One good reason to use many thin spokes is it minimizes the span of rim between spokes. This helps spread shock, instead of putting it all on one section of the rim.

Another good reason is that when a rim deflects under load or impact, you do NOT want the spoke to go slack. So ideally you want all the spokes loaded with enough tension that they stretch more than the rim can safely deflect. With fewer but heavier spokes, this tension would be very high, requiring a thick spoke bed to avoidpulling the nipple though the rim, and unless deap in section the rim would get flat spots under the nipples. Many deep section rims are in fact built into wheels that use fewer spokes with thicker cross section than normal- not because it is stronger, but because it is more aerodynamic.

For a really good explanation of bicycle wheel design, check out Jobst Brandt's book on the subject. He even includes finite element analysis. Using his principles, I've built 26 inch wheels that survive flat landings from loading docks under my grace less 200 lb ass, and stay within .25 mm of build true. They aren't light, but they use MUCH thinner spokes than conventionally used on such wheels, since i aimed for optimal spoke elongation, not maximum spoke strength.

Edit - this is the book I mentioned - http://www.amazon.com/The-Bicycle-Wheel-3rd-Edition/dp/0960723668

u/cacophonousdrunkard · 16 pointsr/LifeProTips

I love my Harley, but just FYI for OP who sounds a little cash-strapped atm: you can also take a regular MSF course for much less money, and they take you all the way from "this is the throttle" to "you are now taking your license exam" in 1 weekend.

The one I took was very good and between that course and Twist of the Wrist (http://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-Motorcycle-Roadracers-Handbook/dp/0965045013) I increased my competence and confidence by a ton.

u/codeduck · 15 pointsr/motorcycles

I guess I'm going to be the first in here with unpopular advice.

> ended up laying her down so I didn't hit the van

Yeah, no. If you'd braked properly you'd have had the same result, without a broken bike or road rash.

> Luckily I didn't hit my head, but I have some road rash on it.

A $50 helmet would have saved you that pain.

I seriously don't get why you guys do this. I get it - riding with the wind in your hair is cool. But is the wind in your hair worth losing what looks like a significant patch of skin?

Mate, you got lucky. Buy and wear some proper gear and do yourself a favour and learn how to perform an emergency stop without dropping the bike.

I highly recommend a copy of Proficient Motorcycling by David L Hough.

u/dl064 · 14 pointsr/formula1

It is actually a slightly confusing title, as it's principally a biography rather than the workshop manual (which also exists) https://www.amazon.co.uk/Red-Bull-Racing-Manual-Championship-winning/dp/0857330993

u/MyRedditVoice · 13 pointsr/formula1
u/rigel42 · 12 pointsr/assettocorsa

It doesn't come over night and there are no simple tricks. Practice, Practice, Practice. Here are two really good resources:

Book: Ultimate Speed Secrets by Ross Bentley

Video: Skip Barber Going Faster

Enjoy and have fun :)

u/kmoz · 12 pointsr/theydidthemath

Again, please stop trying to apply your physics 1 understanding of friction to this. The way friction is taught in a course like that is completely inaccurate and flat WRONG with how friction and tires actually work. It would be like trying to newtonian physics in astronomy, where relativity is incredibly important.

Have you ever stopped to think and ask why sports cars have wide tires? According to your sources and the physics 1 modelling of friction, surface area has no factor in lateral force, so why would they ever want to have those big, heavy, wide tires when they could just get nice skinny and light ones which get the same amount of grip? Its because friction is a nightmarishly complicated topic and all of those numbers youre looking at are at best rough ballpark guesstimates dont hold up in reality.

First off, in YOUR OWN SOURCE, there are items in there with higher than 1 coefficient of frictions, so its clear that even the completely basic (and wrong) understanding of friction isnt bounded at 1.

Second, there are a ton of readily available examples of street cars exceeding 1G in acceleration, braking, and cornering. Basically every reasonably quick sports car today has a higher than 1G skidpad, most of which dont generate any downforce, and even the ones that do arent generating anything meaningful at skidpad speeds. Under your assumption it would be literally impossible for the corvette z06 to hit the 1.2G on a skidpad that it did in car and driver's test. The Tesla model S also would not be able to hit its 0-60 time of 2.3 seconds, and it definitely isnt generating downforce. On top of that, basically every car on the market can hit >1 peak braking Gs.

third, "you dont increase the u" is completely wrong. u is an ungodly complicated variable which depends on temperature, chemistry, surface conditions, surface properties, deformation, contact angle, system dynamics, and funny enough the normal force as well. Its why you have to warm up a racing tire, its why race tires use very different rubber compounds and construction methods than street tires, its why racing brakes dont work worth a shit the first few times you try to stop, its why vehicle suspension matters, its why vehicle weight matters in a corner.

Start on page 13 to start learning about how tires and friction actually work then after youve read that book about 10 times go buy race car vehicle dynamics and read that about 5 times. Then go work on a racing team for 5 years, then come back and talk to me about your understanding of friction.

u/JustTrustMeOnThis · 12 pointsr/motorcycles

Riding a motorcycle is dangerous. Part of the responsibility of being a proficient rider is minimizing the inherent risks as much as possible. Throwing a leg over a motorcycle is not the equivalent of pulling the handle on some cosmic slot machine though.

If you are brand new to motorcycles I would very strongly suggest you go take the motorcycle safety course. I also highly recommend Proficient Motorcycling.

But, to answer your original question, one of most well known statistical reports is the "Hurt" report. Unfortunately this report was originally published almost 30 years ago now and nothing (i'm aware of) of the same scale has been published since. More information can be found here

u/chadcf · 11 pointsr/Frugal

Take the MSF course first. Pick up a copy of Proficient Motorcycling. Then look for a bike.

At 19 it's hard to grasp, but it takes dedication and practice to be safe on a motorcycle. The consequences for minor mistakes are severe, and even if you are careful and responsible, it takes years to master basic techniques to stay safe out there.

Don't rush into it. And don't get into debt to do it.

u/clago · 11 pointsr/cars

Totally forgot about this test! Hard to believe it was only 3 years ago.

From what I remember, I did the acceleration testing and one of the other test drivers did the handling testing. Essentially the 1LE performed identically on both tires. The figure eight test is so short that the 0.03 avg lat g difference is basically noise.

Much of the reasoning why has to do with optimization of the suspension for a given tire. I won't pretend to be an expert on suspension setup, so I'll point you here: https://www.amazon.com/Race-Car-Vehicle-Dynamics-Experiments/dp/0768011272

u/pigcupid · 10 pointsr/bikewrench

When you graduate beyond Sheldon, you can spend months reading Jobst's bike.wreck postings, much of which would inform Sheldon's thinking. He was a brilliant engineer who understood bicycles, possibly better than nearly anyone else who ever lived, and literally wrote the book on bicycle wheels.

u/craftyshafter · 10 pointsr/motorcycles

Just a couple things on your form:

Put your toe on the outside of the peg and pivot from there, this gets the knee in the correct position more naturally. You're big enough that you shouldn't need to hang off more than half a cheek. Also, don't ignore your outside leg, keep the toe pointed into the turn will provide the squeeze against the tank, like an anchor. That will help your lower-body positioning. You should have this done just before you flick it into the turn.

As far as upper body, your vision seems perfect (up and out), but you're still in-line with the bike. If you imagine leaning around the frame of a door to look through, that's the goal. Basically get your chin and shoulder down over the hand grip and keep your eyes up. Also try not to square up your shoulders, instead line them up with the turn.

Once you get comfortable with both of those, it will come together and you'll be tripping the tank with your outside knee and forearm, while your inside knee glides along the pavement!

Aside from body position, throttle control is key. Essentially you want 60% of the weight on the back, 40% on the front. This is achieved with steady, constant roll on the throttle.

As far as suspension goes, I'm not sure if you have rebound on your springs, but at the least set your sag and preloads for your weight. You'll need a friend for this, and a video like this one.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HAWLaLf1Awc&playnext=1&list=PL0E1D32409F421246&feature=results_video

These two books are amazing, cheap, and I absolutely recommend picking up a copy, or if you're ever in KC, hit me up and I'll give them to you! A Twist of the Wrist and A Twist of the Wrist 2, both by Keith Code.

http://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-Motorcycle-Roadracers-Handbook/dp/0965045013/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1347847984&sr=8-1&keywords=twist+of+the+wrist

Also, your gear on top is perfect but a pair of riding pants with knee pucks and good boots with toe sliders will give you loads more confidence.

Most of all, enjoy it and ride at 80% of what you feel capable of, you'll last a lot longer that way! Ride on.

u/katzider · 10 pointsr/Guadalajara

Yo he tomado básico e intermedio con cemovial y los puedo recomendar ampliamente. Abarcan bastantes temas incluyendo frenado, curveo, countersteer, manejo en tierra, etc.
http://cemovial.com/contacto-cemovial/
Si quieres algo más deportivo puedes probar con el equipo de Italika racing GDL. Yo tomé curso con Italika racing del DF y la neta si hubo un antes y después en mi manejo.
https://www.italikaracing.com/ciar

Y cómo no todo es cursos presenciales también te recomiendo estos libros, a mí me han servido mucho:

https://www.amazon.com/Total-Control-Performance-Street-Techniques/dp/0760343446/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539741867&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=total+control+motorcycle

https://www.amazon.com.mx/Proficient-Motorcycling-Ultimate-Guide-Riding/dp/1620081199/ref=asc_df_1620081199/?tag=glemobshopmx-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=295472311811&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11203509227990690069&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1010079&hvtargid=aud-530251625033:pla-437013819598&psc=1

También te dejo el canal de este compa:

http://www.motojitsu.com

Tengo entendido que en agencias de BMW también dan cursos, puedes checar con los de Jurgen. Con ellos nunca he ido.

Ánimo y rueda seguro.

u/equiraptor · 9 pointsr/Porsche

If you're interested in continuing to talk with him about this, ask him how weight impacts tire grip, and how the force needed to turn plays into that.

You see... more weight does mean more grip from the tires. The problem is, the added grip provided by the weight is less than the added grip needed to control the weight. So more weight means less grip:force for the same move. Adding weight to the car means its maximum cornering speed is lower.

If you're interested in more, Think Fast has a good breakdown, without being overly heavy or technical. Speed Secrets is another good book on the subject of performance driving, but my memory is that Think Fast does a more effective job of succinctly explaining technical/engineering realities in an easy-to-understand fashion.

u/nettdata · 9 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

Fun times. High heat + low octane + compression = predetonation.

The absolute best education I got on the subject (other than having to rebuild a turbo race engine after a summer race in California) was from a book by Corky Bell, called Maximum Boost

Very, very informative for learning how octane and compression and air/fuel work in an engine, regardless of it being normally aspirated or turbo/super charged.

u/Spossa · 8 pointsr/simracing

https://www.youtube.com/user/TacticalCardboard/playlists?view=1&sort=dd - Empty box's simracing 101 series is about how to drive, some stuff about simracing (fov,ffb), and racing etiquette.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xQRmYMlmdqM

u/Blerrie · 8 pointsr/formula1

Since Le Mans (linked posts only):

Yesterday, Maldonado (not a meme, just silly): http://www.reddit.com/r/formula1/comments/jw47n/maldonado_is_worse_than_hitler/
No race for Button: http://www.reddit.com/r/formula1/comments/jw35u/no_race_for_button/
Copypasta-esque: http://www.reddit.com/r/formula1/comments/jrc80/dont_get_me_wrong_bruno_is_a_great_driver_but/
Prost vs. Senna panel comic: http://www.reddit.com/r/formula1/comments/jlimk/prostsenna/
Trollface Button: http://www.reddit.com/r/formula1/comments/j4ymz/you_went_off_a_lot_didnt_you/
Overtakes 'like a boss' with a mugshot of Kobayashi: http://www.reddit.com/r/formula1/search?q=like+a+boss&restrict_sr=on&sort=relevance
Copypasta: http://www.reddit.com/r/formula1/comments/jjayd/three_words_jenson/
Copypasta re Button at Silverstone (presumably): http://i.imgur.com/qBUAp.jpg
http://www.reddit.com/r/formula1/?count=275&after=t3_j6b5i
Button eating a biscuit: http://www.reddit.com/r/formula1/?count=325&after=t3_j4ggc
Vettel overtaking: http://i.imgur.com/jOQ6L.jpg
Vettel overtaking: http://i.imgur.com/4unXN.jpg
That laughing face: http://i.imgur.com/z5mpn.png
Haynes manual for about the 4th or 5th time: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/0857330993
Haynes again: http://www.reddit.com/r/formula1/comments/iphp4/haynes_red_bull_racing_f1_owners_workshop_manual/
Current points standings (?): http://www.reddit.com/r/formula1/comments/illa4/formula_1_drivers_standing/ and http://www.reddit.com/r/formula1/comments/ill98/formula_1_teams_standing/ - deservedly downvoted (linking to someone's advert-ridden blog, no doubt)
40 upvotes for pasting Terrence & Phillip heads on marshalls at Canadian GP: http://www.reddit.com/r/formula1/?count=650&after=t3_ikti3
The Haynes manual appears again: http://www.amazon.com/dp/0857330993/ref=cm_sw_su_dp
Troll face Vettel with 40 upvotes: http://www.reddit.com/r/formula1/comments/i9jeb/luckily_hes_not_a_fortune_teller/
Haynes manual: http://www.haynes.co.uk/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&storeId=10001&productId=52821&langId=-1&parent_category_rn=34566
Button, the 'most interesting F1 driver' copypasta (169 upvotes): http://www.reddit.com/r/formula1/comments/hxzv1/the_most_interesting_f1_driver/
Don't know: http://www.reddit.com/r/formula1/comments/hy0dw/yep_i_still_have_it/
No upvotes, but 'Vettel's a whingey little fucker': http://www.reddit.com/r/formula1/comments/hy54a/bbc_race_report_fixed/
'Spoiler': http://www.reddit.com/r/formula1/comments/hnum3/spoiler/
Forever alone F1: http://www.reddit.com/r/formula1/comments/hnve2/forever_1/


Others before Le Mans:

I first started noticing it when Petrov had his infamous 'flying' moment - a .gif with troll faces superimposed (http://www.reddit.com/r/formula1/search?q=gif&restrict_sr=on&sort=relevance).

Also, from Monaco, rage comic (264 upvotes): http://www.reddit.com/r/formula1/comments/hmum9/monaco_rage/
Another rage: http://www.reddit.com/r/formula1/comments/dxguc/hey_f1_reddit_sorry_i_know_this_is_several_months/
More rage: http://www.reddit.com/r/formula1/comments/e6930/abber_dabby_spoiler_rage/
Y U NO meme: http://www.reddit.com/r/formula1/comments/hmxr1/this_goes_for_both_quali_and_the_race/
http://www.reddit.com/r/formula1/comments/h6qp2/hamilton_has_had_enough_of_vettels_finger/
Demotivational poster: http://www.reddit.com/r/formula1/comments/gngo4/back_to_malaysia_ii/
Petrov flying (plus gif in comments): http://www.reddit.com/r/formula1/comments/gmn8y/stoli_gives_you_wings/
EJ copypasta: http://www.reddit.com/r/formula1/comments/gm9ga/what_i_think_will_happen_tomorrow/
Petrov trollface: http://www.reddit.com/r/formula1/comments/gji4g/what_most_people_thought_of_petrov/
Rage: http://www.reddit.com/r/formula1/comments/gbtqk/f1_spoilereverything_went_better_than_expected/
Bernie copypasta: http://www.reddit.com/r/formula1/comments/ejytf/badass_bernie/

Granted, this isn't representative of the deluge of memes in other subreddits. But about a year ago, there was very little of this, and I think when they did crop up, they were all the more funny. But I worry that r/formula1 is beginning to turn into the rest of Reddit. I was attracted to Reddit because of good grammar, intelligent comments, insightful posts, and quirky in-jokes. Over the past year that has mostly disappeared, and I have stuck mostly to r/formula1. I just don't want to see one of the few parts of Reddit I can still intelligently enjoy devolving into a Reddit memefest resembling a cross-over between Youtube comments and FunnyJunk.






u/cavehobbit · 8 pointsr/bicycling

The Bicycle Wheel 3rd Edition

THE definitive source for wheel building IMO

Available used for <$10

Earlier editions perfectly OK for 99% of wheel builders

Sheldon Browns page on this is also very good, just not to the depth Jobst Brandts book goes to

u/ridethepiggy · 8 pointsr/motorcycles

Oh man, have you heard about Twist of the Wrist 2?.

u/BuckeyeBentley · 8 pointsr/motorcycles

Read Proficient Motorcycling and A Twist of the Wrist II, and watch the movie A Twist of the Wrist.

u/funkmachine7 · 8 pointsr/beetle

Yes, there a good first car to restore.
Buy a copy of, How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive: A Manual of Step-by-Step Procedures for the Compleat Idiot

Parts are a black hole of aways finding some where to sink more money, but major money items should easy to see before car purchase.
(It's never "just a $50 fix", that part is totally broken some how)

u/cortechthrowaway · 8 pointsr/motorcycles

If you're looking for real-world riding techniques, check out Hough's Proficient Motorcycling (book, article).

But don't dismiss TTW just because it's geared towards riding fast. IRL, a lot of riders wobble through corners because they aren't using enough throttle (among other problems). Riding smoothly is safer--it gives you a lot more control over where you're going.

u/charliex2 · 7 pointsr/ECU_Tuning

i personally wouldn't tune for knock, the power should be a bell curve so as you hone in on the best settings power should rise then fall after maximum power is reached, then start to drop off before it knocks.

so that is what i'd tune for. at worst knock tuning would be a disaster on some engines, and on others you're likely loosing power . at the dyno i've often seen people say tune to knock then back off a whatever a good number/% they've heard is.

you have to know a lot of about the math of specific engine you're tuning for to do proper calcs to get you base maps that are close, so since not all that is available, VE being the most useful, it often does become iterative and you just get a feel for it.

dynos aren't that complex, they just measure torque. the manual for them usually has the operation procedure in them, or the rep shows you. but basically you just do a pull on it while it measures rpm/tq and AFR then it plots an HP/TQ graph usually with some compensation for loss, or which conversion factor to use, SAE etc (where a lot of the online battles take place on dyno figures)

i prefer dynapak's myself, mostly since theyre a lot safer and i don't walk over the roller when concentrating on the laptop, and i've felt they're more controllable/repeatable but YMMV

https://www.dynomitedynamometer.com/dyno-dynamometer-article.htm has a good overview of the different styles.

these are some of the books i have

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0837603005

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0470057572

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0837611083 (general motronic overview)

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Automotive-Handbook-Robert-GmbH/dp/0837617324

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0837615410

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1932494421 good starter book

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0760315825

https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Math-Handbook-HP1554-Calculations (updated ver)

u/squizzix · 7 pointsr/whichbike

Finally, something I can answer:

I have two books in my repertoire:

Bike Science 3rd Ed. - This breaks down the physics of what's happening. It goes in depth about materials, history, really everything bike related. It doesn't go into detail about makes and models though.

Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance - Where Bike Science is the why, Zinn gets down to brass tacks and gives you useful information on how to fix a bike (note that there is also a Zinn book for Mt. Bikes and triathlon bikes which I haven't read yet...). This is my go-to reference when something goes wrong with my bike.

BikeForums.net - So I don't know everything about anything but this is the place to do research. SRAM vs Ultegra? Trek vs Cannondale? Someone has already asked the question and it's on BikeForums somewhere. I trust people who've actually ridden/owned a bike I have a question about far more than some online review that was vetted by the manufacturer.

Hope it helps.

u/RayDeemer · 7 pointsr/Rowing

Heh, of course no one can hold their best 500 m time for 2k. But if you're well-trained, you should be able to predict your 2k time to a very rough approximation from your 500 m time. Yours isn't that far off, I would say. My bests were around 1:29 and 1:44.

A couple caveats: It's not a direct linear relationship, as split scales to the 1/3rs power of power output, and human power output is, obviously, a function of exertion time.

The linked plot appears in Bicycling Science, which has a ton of interesting information about human power output and endurance in general, which is applicable to rowing.

EDIT: Now I'm bored and curious. I'm going to apply the Concept II formula to the data in the human power curve. I will report back with a rough idea of humanity's rough limits for split vs. time. If I'm still bored, I'll give best efforts to distance and compare with actual records.

DOUBLE EDIT: Here we go! The splits here are comically low, which I believe reflects the fact that they're not only best efforts, but best efforts for an ideal mechanism, which the erg, while pretty good, is not.

TRIPLE EDIT: And here's the theoretical best times!. All the same caveats apply as before. Also note this is a log-log scale, rather than a semilog scale as before. The record data came from concept II. There actually is an individual 1 megameter record, but it's off the plot range it's so high. I'm not fixing the spelling error in the first plot.

u/Seeker80 · 7 pointsr/cars

Learn more about driving.

Many techniques and principles from racing can be applied on the road at perfectly legal speeds. Some of this can be demonstrated at 30mph or even less.

The techniques can make you a safer driver as well. Practicing the various skills as you drive, even on something as simple your commute will help keep you engaged and focused on your driving. This helps keep you attentive like you should be anyway, so it's just a bonus.

u/brainhulk · 7 pointsr/cars

Find the organizations that hold track days at your local tracks and sign up as a beginner with an instructor.

https://www.reddit.com/r/CarTrackDays/

Some reading: https://www.amazon.com/Going-Faster-Mastering-Race-Driving/dp/0837602262

Don't get too caught up in the didactics, as there is no replacement for seat time. But it's a good introduction so you have the right frame of mind and get the most out of your instructors.

There are no winners at track days, but there can definitely be losers.

Be safe, and have fun.

u/stop-rightmeow · 7 pointsr/TwoXriders

I completely understand where you're coming from. I also took the class and passed but I was still so uneasy about riding. It baffled me that I was a licensed rider because there was no way I was ready to get on the roads.

I bought a bike (Kawasaki Ninja) because I found an amazing deal on it. I figured I just paid to get my license and I should use it. The bike was cheap enough for me to justify spending the money even if I decided I hated riding in a few months. A friend came with me to check out the bike and also rode it back home for me. I kept it at his house because, like you, my parents would have killed me if they found out.

After getting my bike, I literally just rode around neighborhoods for weeks. Weeks! I nearly dropped my bike after popping the clutch in the first few days of having it. I was always so nervous riding that I avoided doing so as much as possible. I'd make excuses why I couldn't/didn't want to ride and when I did ride, I only rode with friends. But it gets easier, I promise. Everyone always told me that one day, things will just click. I thought they were just trying to be nice, but one day, it happened. It just clicked. The nerves went away and I felt comfortable riding.

There is no way in hell I thought I'd be where I am now. I'm still very much a novice, but I feel so much more comfortable riding now. My parents know about my motorcycle. My dad got his license and rides with me now. I'm looking to get a new bike next year.

Check out Twist of the Wrist. You can read the intro here. I think back to it all the time, how I'm using less attention doing the small things that I once found so difficult.

I don't have advice about the parents thing to be honest. My parents just accepted it because I had already had the motorcycle and license for so long (I told them about a year after I got it). If you can figure this part out, I definitely say find a cheap starter bike and start practicing.

Just like /u/w0lf3h said, you'll make mistakes. But don't quit just yet! If you want to do it, don't let your fear hold you back. Fear is good, as it will keep you cautious and alive. But don't let it hold you back from doing something you really want to do.

If you want to talk more personally, feel free to PM me!

u/SutekhRising · 7 pointsr/motorcycles

Before you accuse me of killing someone, you may want to double-check your information with someone who actually knows something about riding. In this case, I refer to Keith Code. Clearly you haven't heard of him, but take my word for it, he knows a little bit about cornering. The information can be found in his book: Twist of the Wrist II. In fact, its in chapter 4.

Or, if you prefer, the following information is taken word-for-word from the "Twist of the Wrist II" DVD. If you have it, pop it in and go to 26:48 and follow along with the words below:


> "Riders are often confused about why the bike initially stands up and runs wide when they get off the gas mid-turn.

>Once into your lean and the gas is rolled off, weight transfers to the front of the bike, compressing the forks. That weight goes to the front tire, and spreads out the contact patch. This creates additional drag on the patch to the inside of the centerline of the bike. That drag countersteers the bike upwards and it runs wide. The whole thing can seem confusing, especially as the rider expects to tighten the turn when he rolls of the gas, and he finds the opposite of that happening. A moment later, since the gas is off, the bike slows, leans further over and finally tightens up the turn.

>Applying brakes mid-corner creates the same effect. When the weight transfers forward, the result is the same: the bike stands up.

>A static throttle slows the bike as well. Again, the bike tends to run wide. This effect is even more pronounced at higher speeds and steeper lean angles. Getting on the gas too hard, too soon will also send the bike off line: wide."

u/Some_Old_Man_Fishin · 7 pointsr/motorcycles

Jupiter's Travels by Ted Simon is a great read. It documents Ted Simon's ride around the world in the 70s.

u/bluesburgers · 7 pointsr/motorcycles

It sounds like you're after the basics of how mechanical things work. These aren't bike specific but the principles remain the same.

Engine basics

How oil systems work and what your engine oil does

Gearboxes and what gears do

Early braking systems and what brake fluid does

Cooling system

Yes these are old but I think explain things in such an easy to understand method. Some things are far outdated by today but all basic principles are exactly the same.

If you're after some books. How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive by John Muir is one of the best mechanical guides around. Sure it's about VW stuff but it explains things is such a great way and how to think when working on something, mechanical problem solving etc. It's helped me when I worked as a race car mechanic and it just provides advice that sticks with you and applies to anything mechanical.

u/JimMarch · 7 pointsr/CafeRacers

There's two aspects...no...make that three:

  1. Cosmetic. Some like how these bikes look.

  2. Historic/cultural. Cafe racers are a leftover from European roadracing and then the "rocker" subculture (mainly British, mid to late 1960s) taking street bikes and converting them into respectable replicas of race bikes.

  3. Performance. When I was in my early 20s I was street racing ("canyon racing") in the Santa Cruz mountains of California, a Mecca for that sort of thing. This was basically 1985-1989. I didn't have the cash for an early Suzuki GSXR, Kawasaki Ninja, whatever, so I made do with what we'd now call a cafe racer: 1979 Yamaha XS650. I had Mikuni VM series carbs, aluminum hoops over spoke rims, better rear shocks, progressive front springs, fork brace, 2" worth of extra preload in the forks, flattracker bars, junk everything that didn't need to be there, all the usual tricks. On a tight enough road where some guy in a brand new bike couldn't use his horsepower advantage I could have serious fun. If that bike were still alive everybody here would call it a cafe racer.

    And here's the kicker. It took me about a year and a half to build it, one piece at a time - we call that a "rolling build" and it's absolutely how your first build should be done. As I did I experienced the effects of each modification. The value of what I learned about how high performance bikes work is beyond calculation. It's been a huge help as both a pilot and mechanic.

    You also need to read "A Twist of the Wrist" by Keith Code. Yes, he's a crazy ass Scientologist. No, DO NOT take one of his classes. But you need that book.

    You need a repair manual for whatever bike you get as a starting point. I can guide you there some if I know your approximate height/weight (yeah, it matters!). But you need one more book. You need to get into the mindset of a mechanic and there is absolutely nothing better than the best car repair manual ever written, bar none:

    https://www.amazon.com/Keep-Volkswagen-Alive-Step-Step/dp/1566913101

    I'm not kidding. Read that cover to cover. It is the best and funniest technical manual ever written. It's the reason "idiot guide" books are so popular - the whole concept was stolen from this. It's also a hippie counterculture artifact - you know all those hippies with VW bugs and busses back in the day? They ALL had this book.

    VW Bug tech is also pretty similar to a lot of what you'll run into in 1970s/1980s Japanese motorcycles. Broadly speaking :).

    You also need this:

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6Fh3F6hufhDckM2ektBcDRFNWs/view?usp=drivesdk

    ...and my update to the carb chapter:

    https://old.reddit.com/r/CafeRacers/comments/c5lboc/so_we_need_to_have_a_major_conversation_about/

    Other stuff...

    https://old.reddit.com/r/CafeRacers/comments/da7t1z/some_notes_on_whats_out_there_on_craigslist_and/

    https://old.reddit.com/r/CafeRacers/comments/db4g0s/the_good_bike_list_part_one/

    https://old.reddit.com/r/CafeRacers/comments/db6jbn/the_good_bike_list_part_two/

    If it's not blatantly obvious yet, my focus is on performance and building a stable bike that handles but won't actively try and kill you.
u/beerspill · 7 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

And the best book for learning about repairing Beetles:

"How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive"
http://www.amazon.com/Keep-Volkswagen-Alive-Step-Step/dp/1566913101


The same publisher put out similar style books for a few other cars, unfortunately not many and none newer than 1985-1990. They may be the best books for absolute beginners to learn about car repair in general.

u/jpgPGH · 7 pointsr/flying

I took the Motorcycle Safety Program for free through my state DMV. That got me my license, but I knew I was just getting started as far as actually learning to ride. I like to read a lot and I found a book titled, “Proficient Motorcycling” by David L. Bough that was really good. Proficient Motorcycling: The Ultimate Guide to Riding Well https://www.amazon.com/dp/1620081199/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_PmADDbC4VZWVX

After that it was just a matter of riding more, riding farther from home and going on bigger (busier) roads. After a couple of months, I did a weekend trip across the state (about 270 miles) and surprised my folks with my new purchase. (And boy were they surprised,) Good luck!!

u/Yarhj · 7 pointsr/motorcycles
  1. Watch Twist of the Wrist for information on cornering and general riding skills.

  2. Read Proficient Motorcycling to understand some of the roadcraft you'll need to keep yourself on two wheels. If you hunt around long enough, I'm sure you can find a pdf somewhere.

  3. Take a training course! This will save you tons of money in repairs and hospital bills. I'm not from Australia, but 5 seconds of googling landed me a few potential leads.

  4. Don't worry about keeping track of what gear you're in. Just shift up or down as necessary to keep the bike in a reasonable rev range and you'll be fine. The only time you'll really care about exactly what gear you're in is when you're at a stop light and need to be in first, or when you're on the highway and try to shift into seventh.

  5. Practice braking in a parking lot to get a feel for how your bike behaves. Start out by getting up to 15-20mph in first or second gear, and gradually try to stop in shorter and shorter distances until you get a feel for how quickly you can stop without locking the wheels.

    Good luck!

u/Majishin · 6 pointsr/beetle

There is no better car to learn some wrenching skills.

Get this:

http://www.amazon.com/Keep-Volkswagen-Alive-Step-Step/dp/1566913101

and go for it.

u/baconatorX · 6 pointsr/Volkswagen

First classic VW? NICE! I feel inclined to share my advice from what i learned with my first. man you got a lot to learn in front of you! get the idiot guide. That book really helped me when i had my first. Mine beetle was like yours, except mine was free. Lets see... to get it running i'd say first you gotta drain the bad gas. If it was running as a daily driver before hand your ignition should still fire more or less properly. It's most likely bad fuel that's gonna keep you from starting. probably should get a carb gasket kit and learn how to clean out your carburetor from gunk'd varnished gasoline. Don't open the carb if you don't have gaskets. You could check and verify that fuel pump is pumping fuel. To test if you are actually getting spark(you should do this early on in startup checks) pull a spark wire off the plug and hold it to something solid like alternator body. Hold it slightly away from the metal and have someone turn engine over. if you see sparks that are blue or white you are good, if it's orange/brown that's bad and probably need new ignition coil. (but don't do this near gasoline!) Also make certain all your cooling tin is in place. Get it running and familiar with it, then learn how to check ignition settings like points and timing. use a strobe timing light, its way easier. Check the intake system for leaks when it's running. you can use a flammable aresol to lightly spray at the connection points of the intake manifold you listen for change in RPM. if RPM changes you are leaking at that joint and need to fix asap. Also of course check your brakes. wheel cylinders like to die after long times sitting around. There's a lot more i could say...

u/Its_Obvi_PShopped · 6 pointsr/Volkswagen

Upvoted for truth. Prepare to live on the Samba and look into this book https://www.amazon.com/Keep-Volkswagen-Alive-Step-Step/dp/1566913101

IT will help you with everything you need to know about Aircooled.
Investing in a Bentley Manual is wise as well.

u/opusknecht · 6 pointsr/motorcycles

You’ve got most of the basics. You’re starting out a lot more informed than most.

Not sure what country you’re in but if you have local training classes available, take them. Always keep learning.

Always remember that being in a hurry almost never gets you there that much faster. A couple minutes (if that) is not worth the risk of hurrying and not paying attention.

Even if you have the right of way, that will not console you from the hospital bed. Sure, you may have been in the right and they should have stopped. And yes they will hopefully cover your medical bills and totaled bike. But wouldn’t you rather just avoid all of that in the first place? We cannot afford to hold our own while riding. Make yourself visible and always use your lane space to your advantage, but give way if needed.

These two books have an amazing amount of practical knowledge for street riding:

[Street Strategies](Street Rider’s Guide: Street Strategies for Motorcyclists (Motorcycle Consumer News) https://www.amazon.com/dp/1620081326/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ijwaCb4M23P86)

[Proficient Motorcycling](Proficient Motorcycling: The Ultimate Guide to Riding Well https://www.amazon.com/dp/1620081199/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DlwaCbBZ1YK5Q)

u/funnythebunny · 6 pointsr/motorcycles

Proficient Motorcycling by David L Hough; available in both print and Kindle. Even the experienced rider can benefit from this book.

u/howheels · 6 pointsr/orangecounty

> grab all brakes and lay down the bike

This is never the right answer. There is no situation where "laying it down" is the optimal solution. If you think it is, I highly suggest learning more about safe motorcycle riding, practicing, and improving your skills.

The stopping distance of a bike with both tires on the ground is dramatically shorter than the distance your body will slide on the ground. That is, until your body collides with an immovable object. You are risking death by intentionally laying it down just as much as intentionally slamming into a car. Either option is demonstrating a lack of control of your motorcycle. This is unsafe both for you and for everyone else on the road.

Source: 15+ years riding experience. Never "had ta lay 'er down" a single time. Also I regularly practice emergency braking maneuvers.

https://saddlebackridertraining.com/

https://www.amazon.com/Proficient-Motorcycling-Ultimate-Guide-Riding/dp/1620081199

u/TheStonedMathGuy · 6 pointsr/uofm

That's an awesome bike, I almost went with one for my first bike. Is this your first motorcycle? If so, let me throw a quick couple thoughts out. If you are a seasoned rider, you'll agree these are good points.

  1. Look for a motorcycle safety course through the motorcycle safety foundation. They are offered in the area and can be very valuable.

    2. If this is your first bike, read this book. I've been riding for years and I still read this every spring. it's a very easy read and catches you up on the basics of riding - it's not the same as driving a car. I cannot say enough praise about this book. If you don't want to purchase your own copy, I'll let you borrow mine, it's that essential. I recommend this book to seasoned riders, so this recommendation is equally valid if this isn't your first bike. Improving your knowledge on the road is always important, and this book is a great tool to do that.

    Just remember, motorcycles demand a healthy level of respect. There is no reason to fear them, but ignoring safety practices with them is foolish. Always wear your full safety gear; /r/motorcycles calls this All The Gear, All The Time (ATGATT). Speaking of the motorcycles sub, we'd love to have you join.

    You should also check out the Michigan moto club on Facebook. I don't have a bike any more, so I can't offer to ride with you, but there are always people on that page looking to ride with other students.

    Honestly, just explore the city on your motorcycle. Need to go run and grab a notebook in the middle of the day? Take the scenic route down to the Meijer on carpenter (East on Geddes -> South on Huron Parkway -> East on E Huron River Drive -> South on Hogback Road which will turn into carpenter). The most mindless tasks just got very fun!


    Finally, enjoy the ride. You've got a great bike in a very fun city and the freedom to explore. Take the most of it!
u/DantesDame · 6 pointsr/motorcycles

It was a long time ago, but yes, I recall something similar. I just want to add a word of warning that while you may feel more relaxed now, you must never become complacent. "They" say that the 2nd year of riding can be the most dangerous simply because of the situation you outlined. You get comfortable, relaxed and think "hey! I haven't crashed! I think I have this 'riding' thing down!" So keep your guard up and start practicing the next level of riding.

Oh, and if you haven't yet, I highly recommend reading Proficient Motorcycling - excellent reading no matter what your riding style/skill level.

PPS - nice bike - I have two of them (Gen I) ;-)

u/playfulcyanide · 6 pointsr/motorcycles

Book links for the lazy:

http://www.amazon.com/Sport-Riding-Techniques-Develop-Confidence/dp/1893618072


Edit: removed unpaid link, even though it was kickass.

u/TalenGTP · 6 pointsr/simracing

I would highly highly recommend picking up the book "Going Faster" and reading through that. It teaches the basics of race craft and how to break down the geometry of any circuit, and how to establish the best racing line through a corner. The book may be a little dated, but the fundamentals haven't changed one bit. And the boys at Skip Barber know a thing or two about race training.

u/Chinampa · 6 pointsr/motorsports

The book is also fantastic

u/dwkfym · 6 pointsr/motorcycles

Not my thing, but dude, kudos to you for build finish and worksmanship. I'm really impressed.

You are going to have wheelbase changes as you corner, and the rear is too narrow for the front end. I would have made that rear tire as wide as possible. It will tend oversteer a lot and will be difficult to use the throttle to balance the vehicle. Chassis could use more triangulation too, but from a glance, the tubing looks big enough to hold.

If I can suggest a reading, please check out https://www.amazon.com/Tune-Win-science-development-tuning/dp/0879380713

u/Call_Me_Hobbes · 6 pointsr/FSAE

I'd say to keep remembering that what you're trying to set up is a student run business. Pretend you're Elon Musk trying to tell people how electric is the next best thing in the automotive market, which may be true, but the public (and more importantly, endorsers such as the school) are not going to be swayed easily without proof of concept.

Before I go on, I was the president of the VCU FSAE team in Richmond, VA up until last month (June 2017). The team was in the same predicament as yours 10 years ago, and was getting threatened with the discarding of the half-finished vehicle up every other year until our first competition at Lincoln 2017 (for internal combustion). Richmond is the capital of Virginia, so I'm very familiar with the difficulties of building a vehicle in the city as you've described above. That being said, the information I'm providing is from a team that didn't pass the Noise/Kill-Switch tests at tech inspection, and I'm probably going to be one of the least experienced people to respond to this thread.

Start with looking at the paperwork required for competition, particularly the Business Logic Case. Here, you outline your goals for the vehicle and why you want to build it in the first place and who you will sell it to. Do you want to make the car cheap and market it to a broader, lower income market? Or do you want to make a high cost vehicle which comes with options such as paddle shifting, adjustable front and rear wings, and a carbon fiber monocoque. Every design decision that is made on the car after deciding on your market and budget needs to coincide with the Business Logic Case, which you are allowed to modify if the team decides that they want to market differently for whatever reason. The car should be designed around the Business Logic Case, and we messed up by designing our Business Logic Case around the car, and that's why I want to mention this so strongly.

From there, you'll probably want to assign a few people who have taken their economics/business courses to start on the presentation. There are a lot of things in the presentation that the judges love to see, such as factory layouts, tooling requirements, and labor costs that take a lot of time to prepare and assess accurately.

Design work can start alongside the Presentation, beginning with the chassis. There are a few key points I'd like to throw in first:

  1. Have a full 3D model of the entire car before building or ordering anything, unless it's for proof-of-concept or school presentation purposes and can be stored in your student org society room.

  2. Leave yourself a lot of space inside the chassis to work. Leave large tolerances and assure that everything will fit and be able to slot in to its spot. It also helps your team from getting frustrated when you learn that you'll have to drop the engine for the 5th or 6th time this month.

  3. There is a "standard" chassis outlined in each chassis sub-section in the rulebook, and I highly recommend starting with this, as it is guaranteed to pass in the Structural Equivalency Spreadsheet. (Note: The same applies for the Impact Attenuator and Impact Attenuator Data Sheet. A standard one does not require real-world testing results).

  4. Keep as many mechanical items in the car as possible. I would not advise creating paddle-shifters, traction control elements, or any other systems that cannot be fixed with duct-tape, JB Weld, or zip ties at competition. I don't really agree with the decision to go electric for your first car, but even still, there will be more people who can work on mechanical elements in the vehicle instead of electrical elements, simply because electrical vehicles are not the norm in industry yet.

  5. Every system needs a design and cost report!!! Being a first year team, it's going to take forever to get your first car driving. Make sure that every design on the car has a report that outlines why the design team made certain decisions that what the results of their analyses were. A full bill of materials will also need to be done upon the completion of each system. Just make sure that no significant information is lost when people inevitably begin to graduate from your school and your team.

  6. Make sure that every parameter in the Design Spec Sheet is known before a particular system design is "completed". There are a lot of weird values that they want, and it's very likely that only the people who worked on that system of the car will be able to fill in the blanks.

  7. Don't use or buy any parts that aren't free or discounted. This was something I asked a lot of teams about at Nebraska, and pretty much all of them abided by this.

    So as a summary, compile all the paperwork that you'll require for competition, and begin working on it as soon as you can. It should go something in the starting order of:

  8. Business Logic Case
  9. Design Report (from each team, and then compile and shorten to the 6-page FSAE version)
  10. Design Spec Sheet
  11. Structural Equivalency Spreadsheet
  12. Cost Report
  13. Impact Attenuator Data Sheet

    With all of this completed, you should be able to make a very solid case to anybody at the school for building space. I encourage you to keep trying to get work space as you put together the virtual stuff in the vehicle however.

    I will leave these resources as well for you to look through:

  14. Emily Anthony's "Key points for a successful Formula SAE team" article
  15. Carroll Smith's Engineer to Win, Tune to Win, and Prepare to Win books. Everyone on the team should read these as soon as possible before the design of the car starts or gets too far in.

  16. FSAE Forum Book List. Encourage team members to look here to order books before beginning design work on the vehicle. Chassis team members order books on structural components, intake/exhaust get books like Four Stroke Performance Tuning, and etc.

    Good luck, and let me know if you have any other questions!
u/kristopher_m7 · 6 pointsr/Cartalk

I could go on for hours about basic vehicle dynamics tbh, but suffice it to say that there are countless variables that go into determining handling characteristics. If you're really interested, the definitive introductory resource is this book, which if you can find used would probably be best. It's certainly not an easy read.

For a more accessible read, this book is pretty great too. It's also much cheaper.

IMO, you should probably do a bit more research about common solutions that people have for your particular car. I'd recommend, before changing anything, learning a bit more about basic vehicle dynamics. You don't even need to learn fancy math or anything, just kind of get an idea of what changes generally affect which characteristics.

u/the_technician · 6 pointsr/AskReddit

If you go for it: Start small. Many new riders get way to much motorcycle right out of the gate.

BUY GOOD PROTECTIVE GEAR. This can quite literally mean the difference between living through a crash and dying from one. After you've bought the gear WEAR IT ALL THE TIME. Yeah I know, it's hot, the gear is heavy bla bla bla. Trust me when I tell you that any discomfort that you feel while in your gear is a lot better than the discomfort you'll feel when covered in road rash and broken bones.

Take a rider course. In some areas this is a requirement in some states to get your license/endorsement.

Find an experienced rider to buddy up with. Most riders that I know are happy to share their knowledge with novices even to the point of helping with parking lot practice.

Learn how to work on your machine. This is another area where knowing and befriending an experienced rider can come in handy.

Get a copy of Keith Code's A Twist of the Wrist
I know it says it's a roadracers handbook but it will give you a lot of what you need to know no matter what kind of riding you do. (there are pdf's of this book floating around the interwebs)

WEAR YOUR GEAR

And if I haven't already mentioned it: WEAR YOUR GEAR

u/autophage · 5 pointsr/math

So you've read Bicycling Science, right?

u/Bleak-Horizons · 5 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Maximum boost. Read it when I was 16 wanting to get in to turbochargers. Has a ton of info and explanations.

Maximum Boost: Designing, Testing, and Installing Turbocharger Systems (Engineering and Performance) https://www.amazon.com/dp/0837601606/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9wvRBbB192Y57

Honestly after you really understand turbocharging the only difficult part is tuning.

u/boojiprime · 5 pointsr/Karting

Just my 2C, but unless you learn race craft and theory, simply using a “line” drawn by someone else will do nothing for you. Once you learn the theory you then can start applying it to each corner based on your driving style, etc. There’s no magic bullet outside of outright knowledge and practice.

My suggestions beyond practice and seat time:

Going Faster! Mastering the Art of Race Driving https://www.amazon.com/dp/0837602262/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UC.GDbR6JKTR3

https://www.amazon.com/dp/1785211749/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_QE.GDbWKAQZPM

https://www.amazon.com/dp/1540628590/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_.F.GDbC7VC4TN

u/Spoonwacker · 5 pointsr/simracing

Going Faster! from Skip Barber Racing School is a great resource as well.

u/Remmes- · 5 pointsr/formula1

http://www.amazon.com/Red-Bull-Racing-Car-Championship-Winning/dp/0857330993/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463044349&sr=8-2&keywords=haynes+rb6


You can see the pictures there on what to expect of the book.

(Or just search a site in your country that sells books)

u/AntiSpeed · 5 pointsr/simracing

If you're really interested in it, a good book to read is Tune To Win by Carroll Smith. It was written in the 70's so it's a bit dated but still plenty relevant, especially to new drivers/engineers. But if you're studying finance you probably already have more than enough on your plate.

Basically, driving a race car is about managing weight transfer to balance the car around each corner. The more load one corner or end of the car has on it the more grip it has. The driver controls lateral load transfer with the steering wheel and longitudinal load transfer with the gas and brake pedals.

Tuning the suspension is another way to influence how load is directed around the car. For example, if the front springs are very stiff, the front of the car won't squat as low under braking, less weight is transferred forward so the rear of the car has more grip. So that's why if you're struggling with turn-in understeer you might want to soften either the front sprigs or front (low-speed) compression damping. Alternatively you could also soften the rear low-speed rebound damping (take not that when talking about dampers, speed doesn't refer to speed of the car, but of the piston traveling through the fluid in the damper. Think high speed=bumps, low speed=weight transfer).

Anti-roll bars are a bit different since they manage lateral load. They also link suspension systems together, so if you hit a kerb or a bump with the right front wheel, the left front will feel it as well. Very generally, softer=more grip. The book I referenced goes into a lot more detail than I can, but I like to think of it as making that end of the car more malleable. Although I don't think that's entirely technically accurate. It also may be worth noting that when tuning the car, anti-roll bars are the first thing real-world teams play with, and a lot of cars have anti-roll bars adjustable from the cockpit. The team uses it as a sort of guide to lead other larger setup changes.

To your second question, the car can behave differently in different parts of the corner. It might feel great when you turn in (usually at which point the car is slowing-meaning forward weight transfer), but then lose all front grip when you're accelerating out of the corner. This means that you're transferring too much weight to the rear under power, so the solution is to stiffen rear springs or low-speed damper compression. If it happens earlier in the corner, when there is more lateral load, then stiffening the rear anti-roll bar (or the opposite, softening the front) might be a better solution.

This isn't even getting into things like camber/castor/toe, which I don't really understand enough myself. The general rule of thumb is to try to keep the outer/middle/inner tire temps as even as possible. I think it's also common opinion that cars should always have at least a little bit of toe-in. Edit: This video has a good overview.

Your third point is absolutely correct. Race car setup is an unsolvable equation. There are too many interdependent variables for there to ever be an ultimate solution. Add on top of that different driving styles and one setup might work well for one driver and be trash for another. It's more of an art than a precise science.

I hope that helps!

u/Dutchie3719 · 5 pointsr/FSAE
u/neutral_cadence · 5 pointsr/bicycletouring

There are a ton of forces that act on a wheel. To fully understand the implications of how these forces act on the wheels you've got a lot of reading. Basically, the difference in 4 spokes on the wheel is not the only significant factor among the other differences like rim profile, spoke type, type of brake (rim brake, disc brake) and hub diameter.

Edit: Found this while I was looking for some more info, it's a great article. I also own a copy of this book, which is full of information.

u/jmkogut · 5 pointsr/motorcycles

A Twist of the Wrist and A Twist of the Wrist 2 oh and Total Control. These books are amazing.

u/MProph · 5 pointsr/TheVeneration

and by the way.. I just gave you a nickname.. You're "Jupiter" named after Ted Simon's bike that he took around the world.

You should read this book.. it will inspire you and may actually change your life.

http://www.amazon.com/Jupiters-Travels-Years-Around-Triumph/dp/0965478521#

u/tracknod · 5 pointsr/motorcycles

THis is a repost for me... but fits the situation. You will inevitably come up with the idea that you want to try to get sponsorship as well as everyone thinks it would be easy and I talk about that here:

Ok... From someone that is doing the same thing and has ridden on all but one continent, I will start off being blunt as I was initially told.

YOU ARE NOT DOING ANYTHING SPECIAL!!! NOTHING!!! This goes for sponsorship... There are probably 10k people or more right now on Round the World trips in various Degrees. Some guys on prewar sidecars.. guys on scooters, sportbikes, people doing it 2 up, some with kids.. yada yada... You WILL NOT get a bike sponsorship at all... This will be assured. You may be able to get discounts on gear though, but even this is far fetched as you have NOTHING to bring to a sponsor. How are you going to get them a return? How are you documenting it? Are you filming? Are you a photographer? What gear do you already own? Basically you need to do it for yourself with your own money. Once you get a charity involved you need lawyers as how much of the donation will go for your trip and how much will go to whatever you are donating? 10%... 90%???? I am assuming you wanted donations to help pay your way, but I may be wrong. The only way you may is through your church, as most churches are gullible as hell and have money to burn when it comes to thinking about someone riding the world converting heathens on some mission.

Your bike choices are just meh and all aren't really RTW bikes. You are on a crap bike that will leave you stranded on a bike you are unfamiliar on. Also, getting a bike in and out of some countries is a PAIN IN THE ASS not to mention the cost of anything over 125cc in the rest of the world once you take taxes in to consideration. A non kitted BMW Adventure will run about 18k in the states... while in SE Asia, the bike is 38k-44k. Mind you this is a 1200 and a big bike. What you need to be looking at are Dual Sports be it a BMW or Honda. I'd look at a BMW Dakkar or Honda TransAlp for the budget conscious. Forget the sidecar as it just adds weight and can be a pain in the ass for a novice rider and stay as far away from an unreliable Ural for this type of trip.

I don't know what your financial situation is or your work situation, but it is something you need to save for. The bike being your most important asset. It is what will make or break your trip. Then you have all of the gear associated with this. Also, where have you ridden before? Is your longest trip 1500km? 10000km? 50km? Have you ever been on a bike for 2 months straight? How mechanically inclined are you. Can you do your own maintenance? All of these are musts. You will need to be as self sufficient as possible. This even comes down to first aid and being rescued. Do you have evacuation insurance? Insurance on your bike in each country? Are you getting a Sat Phone? GPS tracking with rescue ala a Spot tracker? Do you know how to travel in different countries, like where to keep money, carrying 7 or eight copies of your crucial documents, carrying multiple copies of an international DL as well as. Do you even know what an International DL is?

I am not saying you that your trip is impossible, but the way you are thinking about it is very very unlikely. Why did McGreggor and Boreman get shit??? Well it is fucking Luke Skywalker and the money behind the name. Rewatch Long Way Around again and notice how THEY almost didn't get a bike sponsorship and were bluntly turned down by KTM. This is with the backing of the BBC. I was told long ago, you need to do this trip for yourself if you want it, not for someone else. This comes in everything. I know guys that have climbed Everest with sponsorship.... their second time. Once you show you are able to do something on your own, and show a viable product... this is when sponsorship will come. But then, it is only helping you do what your passion is. right now, from the rest of your posts it seems that you are 2-3 years of really getting into this before I would even recommend this to you. This is after you have ALL of the gear and about 80k USD in the bank. You never know what will happen. Plus, some of the coutries you mentioned mandate you have a Carnet of Passage. This is basically an insurance policy stating that everything you have with you will be with you when you leave or you will pay for it. This alone cost me 50k bond to be held by the company holding my Carnet. I am not including this mandatory 50k in the 80k you should have in your banks.

When I mentioned 80k that was for a RTW trip and being gone for a year. It won't be as much for you as you are not having to take into account the $1k it costs to ship bikes between continents and then your airfare. Also, this is purely a rough estimate and a reserve fund. Your trip will probably cost about $10-15k depending on how fast you travel and where you stay. Camping isn't normally done unless you are out in the severe outback, as most of where you are going will have fairly inexpensive hotel lodging. Always have double the money you think it might take as a reserve. So if you think it would cost you 15k have 30k at your disposal in case of injury, bike breaking down, the grand or so for tires you will need, accidentally killing some farmers goat, ransom, bribes... all have a chance of happening.

How many people? Another bike? Or Two up with your significant other? Even the best friendships will get strained just being with one person for months. I have been there... hell even in LWR they couldn't stand each other for the last legs of the trip. It happens and if you say it won't, you are being VERY NAIVE. Also, what is your nationality? This makes a huge difference too. Americans can't travel into some countries that you have planned. Well, at least not with a ton of red tape and finding people that will help you.
What gear do you own? Plan on buying quality gear as it will make your life so much easier. Don't worry about spending $500 on those riding pants or $900 on your jacket as you will be in them EVERY DAY for a couple months and they could save your life. You must be safe. Read this thread. Clayton became a quadriplegic after hitting a burro in mexico on his way to South America. After a while of living in this state, he killed himself. Shit happens.

You need to read, and read a lot. Buy these and use them as your bibles:

Adventure Motorcycling Handbook

Jupiters Travells

Two Wheels Through Terror

Or Glen's other book One More Day Everywhere

Get them and read. Can you ride offroad? There is a reason nearly everyone does a RTW trip on a dual sport. This is why I said 3 years. Gear costs money...

It is basically said:

PLan on a 6 month planning time frame for a trip in between countries, 1-2 years of planning for multiple continents. Also remember, that bike you buy has to be paid off. No leans. this means you have to come up with the cash for this upfront.

My last trip across North America was 28k km, lasted 3 months and cost 10k after I already had my gear. This is also camping everywhere in the US and Canada and hoteling it in Cental America. My trip to South America was about 14k for a similar time frame. Remember everything cost money. You want to go to Machu Piccu... that is 150 bucks. MMMMM.. wanna see the Nazca Lines from a plane, that will be 200. There will be tons of things you will want to see as well on your trip. And you can't say FUCK I dont have the cash to see it. That defeats the complete purpose of the trip.

Having the will is great and so is optimism. But Blind optimism gets you injured or killed. Where have you ridden before? What is your longest ride? Honestly you sound like every other person that has seen LWR and made their way to the net with grandiose plans only to realize that it is A GREAT DEAL harder than you thought. Even if you had the funds.. which you don't as you probably balked at having 80k in the bank... a multiple continent motorcycle ride is difficult. But the benefits are AMAZING!!!

All That being said, it is the problems you overcome that will be in your memories and stories forever. Nobody ever remembers that day where you rode and stopped at a little restaurant for coffee then pulled up into a hotel. No, they remember the time you ran out of gas and blew a tire 200km from anywhere and you had to put your bike in the back of a military truck to get to help. That story you will tell FOREVER!!! The adventure begins with the adversity.

Sorry for the long wall of text...TLDR READ IT ALL....

OH... all my cost are in USD

u/mburke6 · 5 pointsr/cars

I bought my first car in 1984, a '71 Beetle, for $300 when I was in high school. It had over 200K miles on it. Me and my buddy dropped a $450 rebuilt engine in it in my dad's driveway and neither of us were mechanics, but we were armed with a copy of How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive.

That Beetle ran pretty well for 8 years until I sold it for $500. My Beetle was not seen by me as "the car to have", by any stretch of the imagination, but at the time it was the only car I could afford. Although it had a few quirky problems, I remember it fondly. The car was as basic a vehicle as it could possibly be. So simple it was kind of charming. Still, I would have preferred a GTO.

When I drove it for long periods of time, it would vapor lock. Air would get in the gas line feeding the carburetor when the engine got hot and the engine would quit. Sometimes you just had to wait by the side of the road for the engine to cool down, then it would be fine again. Sometimes when I was going down a large hill, I would shut the engine off and coast to cool the engine. Later I relocated the fuel line away from the engine, and eliminated that problem.

Although the car would go in the snow like nothing I've ever owned since, there was almost no heat. Most of the car would remain at the outside temperature, but the driver's side vent would keep my left foot comfortably toasty no matter how cold it was. I had to keep an ice scraper in the car to remove the frost buildup. On the inside.

The windshield wiper fluid was powered by the pressure in the spare tire. I would over inflate the spare to get good pressure. The one time I got a flat and needed the spare, it had no air in it.

One winter, I backed the car down somebody's icy driveway and parked. It was one of the rare times I got the car stuck. My wheels couldn't get traction and just spun futility. My Vdub was a two speed auto-stick (no clutch), I put it in 2nd, got the wheels spinning, opened the driver door, got halfway out and gave it a shove. The wheels gripped and the car got away from me as it trundled up the driveway, across the street, through a neighbor's fence, finally coming to a rest against a tree.

u/cef911f1 · 5 pointsr/beetle
u/boinger · 5 pointsr/beetle

The Muir book is the Bible.

How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive: A Manual of Step-by-Step Procedures for the Compleat Idiot https://www.amazon.com/dp/1566913101/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KKb5CbG3N27P5

u/Cadent_Knave · 5 pointsr/aircooled

Okay.

Checking for spark: Disconnect one of our spark plug wire boots and hold it against the engine block while you have a friend turn the engine over. If you see a spark, you know the ignition system is correctly getting spark to your engine.

Checking for fuel: Take the fuel hose that runs from the fuel pump to the carburetor off and put it in a clear container. Again, have a friend turn the motor over and see if gas squirts out of it.

Check to make sure you didn't accidentally disconnect any wires or anything else while you were changing the oil.

If you own an air-cooled and intend on working on it yourself, you would be well advised to buy this book:

https://www.amazon.com/Keep-Volkswagen-Alive-Step-Step/dp/1566913101/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503889652&sr=8-1&keywords=idiots+guide+volkswagens

That book is the Bible for air-cooled backyard mechanics.

u/Achilles8857 · 5 pointsr/beetle
u/YourFriendFlicka · 5 pointsr/beetle

So I got this bug from my wife's best friend. She is moving and she couldn't take it with her. She knew I've always wanted a bug and she didn't want to scrap it so she gave it to me. I'm super excited to finally own one and I can't wait to learn all about it. I've been a mechanic most my life (I'm only 33) but never worked on older cars. I ordered a copy of https://www.amazon.com/Keep-Volkswagen-Alive-Step-Step/dp/1566913101 because everyone said it's a great book. I'm not 100% sure what style I'm going to do, but I was thinking Baja/hot rod(exposed front wheels, lowered not raised). I just really want to strip it down and see what I'm working with. The motor is locked up supposedly so I may just look into a new/rebuild one. I hear 1600 duel port is a good place to start? If I want to go highway speeds(65-70mph) would that be enough, or would a 1700+ be better to look at? Anyway, I'm happy to be apart of the Beetle family and I'll be posting pictures along the way. So excited to get working on this bug!

u/unclenoah · 5 pointsr/beetle

There are only 3 components to a working internal combustion engine: fuel, air (oxygen), and spark. If your motor isn't running, then one of those three things isn't happening.

Lucky for you, all three happen in a fairly simple, easy-to-follow way in a VW.

Other posters have given you procedures for testing. And if you haven't, go get a copy of the Idiot Book and follow the testing procedures there. Get a sandwich or some fruit or something, because it might take some time to go through everything, but you'll figure it out.

u/SlidePanda · 5 pointsr/motorcycles

Yep - sounds like you're probably past a lot of the on-bike portions of the BRC. But there is some valuable class room stuff for someone who's not ridden on the streets.

Lucky for you the BRC course book is online - bam:
http://msf-usa.org/downloads/BRCHandbook.pdf

Another couple books that are worth looking at
David Houghs - Proficient Motorcycling
http://www.amazon.com/Proficient-Motorcycling-Ultimate-Guide-Riding/dp/1620081199

And Lee Parks - Total Control
http://www.amazon.com/Total-Control-Performance-Street-Techniques/dp/0760314039/

I like Parks descriptions of the more technique oriented content. But Houghs book covers a lot of road/traffic survival techniques that are touched on lightly or not at all in the Parks book

u/sudonem · 5 pointsr/Atlanta

As someone who's been riding since he was 19 (and is now noticeably older than that) I strongly recommend that you pick up a copy of Proficient Motorcycling and read that shit cover to cover on a yearly basis.

It will literally save your life, as it has mine on multiple occasions.

u/e60deluxe · 5 pointsr/motorcycles

(1) Ok so licensing and basic training is pretty easy in the US but it still varies state to state.

All states use a rider training program, the majority of them being of the MSF curriculum, a small handful of them being run by the MSF themselves. other states will have their own, but the process is usually more or less the same.

you take a 2 day course that takes you from the point of never having sat on a motorcycle to being a licensed rider (some states will still make you take the DMV written exam however) some states will REQUIRE you to take this class if you are under 21. best to check with your state on the process.

This is where you should start. this is not where you should end however. these courses will give you the skills you need to operate the motorcycle, but before being road ready they need to be drilled down in a parking lot. after getting your bike hopefully you can ride it home in a light traffic hours or have it delivered, and be prepared to get out to an empty parking lot and practice the exercises taught before getting into full blown traffic.

in addition to this, your rider education should not stop. i advise you to check out some books from your local library if not purchasing a copy yourself. i will link below

(2) the clutch in a manual car is more difficult than on a bike, but the same interplay between the clutch and throttle applies. most bikes are also designed with wet clutches which allow them to slip more and take more abuse than dry clutches, also gives them a more linear release (although some Italian bikes have dry clutches) . Bikes can also move off easier without throttle which makes things easier in the beginning. hills starts are not as much of a problem on a bike than a car. one advantage a car has however is a mental one, you dont have to worry about keeping the vehicle upright while you are learning. doing this plus learning the clutch could make things challenging. for the most part, though, a motorcycle will be easier than a car.

(3) at your height most bikes will fit well. there's only a few bikes that you can be too tall for, most of the time its the other way around, where as a beginner you want to be able to flat foot the bike. so a lot of this comes down to which bikes you like.

the other things is that a lot comes down to body geometry so not all 6'2" are going to be equally comfortable on the same bike. best it to go and sit on a few bikes. if you are into sportbikes/sport standards, most of the entry level 250cc-300cc bikes actually fit taller people better than say, a 300cc cruiser.

that being said, when you go to take the course. expect to be slightly uncomfortable. a lot of these bikes used at courses tend to be bikes with very low seat heights so that shorter people can still flat foot them...while you are learning you will have to put your foot down a lot, which can be make a taller person feel cramped on the bike. once your riding, these bikes are mostly fine for us taller folk but in the course with so much stop and go, and bike walking exercising, with such a low seat height, its kind of uncomfortable.


Recommended reading:

Proficient Motorcycling: The Ultimate Guide to Riding Well
by David L. Hough
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1620081199/
This book is pretty popular and its VERY good. your local library probably has it. I was actually able to get an ebook from the library to read on a tablet in full color without getting off my butt.


The Follow up:
https://www.amazon.com//dp/1935484869/

If you are into sportbikes:

Lee Parks Total Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R31222S

Nick Ienatsch Sport Riding Techniques https://www.amazon.com/gp/1893618072/

u/PraxisLD · 5 pointsr/motorcycles

Upvote for Proficient Motorcycling recommendation. It's a great book, for anyone who wants to learn to ride well.

u/Eddie2370 · 5 pointsr/Jeep

I live in AZ and I bought the guide to Arizona backroads book and it gives you info on over a 100 trails and where to find them.
Book

u/bloYolbies · 4 pointsr/phoenix

Nice! To help your problem along, I'm pretty sure this is the AZ 4x4 bible. Might be worth ordering or at least checking out from a library.

u/thtanner · 4 pointsr/motorcycles

AVOID THIS VIDEO. AVOID ANY OF THE TWIST OF THE WRIST SERIES

These are not the best for new riders. Keith loves to throw opinion in there, and explain things without going into the science behind it.

Read Sport Riding Techniques by Nick Nick Ienatsch and you'll be much better off.

u/ASchlosser · 4 pointsr/Karting

Sure thing! I realized I forgot to answer the book question, the driving books that I learned a lot from were Ross Bentley's Speed Secrets books - less so on raw technique and moreso on thought processes and way to approach things. Back when I read them the first time (I was probably 11 ish so... 2006 I guess?) They came as a series of books but they're now all compiled into one book: it's on Amazon here and is absolutely worth the money. Plus it's way cheaper than it used to be. It helps understand how to break down corners and think about what's going on which then applies the knowledge you have of the vehicle to apply it. It takes longer than reading a simple how to but as a result you'll be a more complete driver after - and potentially get yourself the skill set to drive the fsae car or other cars more quickly and easily.

A good way to practice is iRacing or rfactor or pcars - something with a more real tire model than say Forza or Grand Turismo. Obviously this isn't cheap, sim racing on a college budget can be tough but it's something to look into. It's much more forgiving than real life.

u/TheBurningBeard · 4 pointsr/DIY

Cool build, and I hope it lasts for you.

A couple notes to anyone thinking they want to slap a turbo on their car to get more power:

  1. Slapping a turbo on a gasoline/petrol engine that isn't designed for one is a very different animal, and much research should be done, starting with reading this book a few times.

  2. If you dismiss #1 you shouldn't be doing work like this on cars.
u/w0lrah · 4 pointsr/FiestaST

Do you have any wide open stretches of pavement you can screw around on without drawing unwanted attention? A big un-lit parking lot in an industrial area for example? The best way to learn driving is by doing it, and particularly by screwing up in a controlled manner so you can learn how the car feels when you take it over the limit. If there's nothing to hit for hundreds of feet you can go out when the weather is bad (I don't think you guys get snow, but rain works almost as well) and intentionally put the car out of control knowing that if you don't get it back under control you at least won't hit anything.

Beyond that, this book is always one I've heard of for being very good: http://www.amazon.com/Going-Faster-Mastering-Race-Driving/dp/0837602262/

I've never read it myself but it comes up all the time on various forums when this sort of question is asked.

There's nothing really special about driving this specific car. It's a front-engine front-drive with independent front suspension and a beam axle out back. The turbo is small enough that lag is not really a huge factor and you don't need to think about it much at a basic level. Most hot hatches have a similar formula, with the main difference being some of the nicer ones have independent suspension in the back too.

I started writing up some basic instructions here, but then I figured there are enough people here who actually race competitively or semi-competitively and would be better at it than a guy who knows the theory but puts it to practice mostly hooning on back roads and playing video games.

u/saarlac · 4 pointsr/formula1

You haven't really looked at all have you?

Art of the Formula 1 Race Car
http://amzn.com/0760337314

McLaren M23: 1973 onwards (all marks) (Owners' Workshop Manual)
http://amzn.com/0857333127

Lotus 72 Manual: An Insight Into Owning, Racing and Maintaining Lotus's Legendary Formula 1 Car (Owners' Workshop Manual)
http://amzn.com/0857331272

Red Bull Racing F 1 Car: An Insight into the Technology, Engineering, Maintenance and Operation of the World Championship-winning Red Bull Racing RB6 (Owners' Workshop Manual)
http://amzn.com/0857330993

The Golden Age of Formula 1
http://amzn.com/3832794360

Formula 1 in Camera 1950-59
http://amzn.com/1844255530

Formula 1 in Camera 1960-69
http://amzn.com/1844252183

Formula 1: The Roaring 70s (English, German, French, Spanish and Italian Edition)
http://amzn.com/3832795375

Formula 1 in Camera 1970-79
http://amzn.com/1859609600

Formula 1 in Camera 1970-79: Volume Two
http://amzn.com/0857330748

Formula 1 in Camera 1980-89
http://amzn.com/1844251098

u/enigmagic · 4 pointsr/bicycling

You could read for years on bikeforums.net and not get bored.

My favorite hardcopy bike books:

u/champs · 4 pointsr/bicycling

I seem to recall from a different context that it is the serial retrogrouch and über-curmudgeon known as Jobst Brandt.

EDIT: confirmed

u/mattgif · 4 pointsr/motorcycles

Non obvious? I make sure to take my adderall, and typically tell my wife when I'm heading out and when I expect to be back. I put in a dozen parking lot hours at the start of every season, and practice emergency stops whenever I can.

>Would it be a good idea to spend a lot of time on reddit and other motorcycle message boards reading anecdotes from other riders about the dangers they've faced?

It seems to me like 99% of posters here have either never ridden a motorcycle or have been riding less than a year. To save yourself the trouble of separating the wheat from the chaff, check out the books Proficient Motorcycling and Twist of the Wrist.

u/Neterson · 4 pointsr/motorcycles

I've not read it yet myself but I see Twist of the Wrist recommended here pretty often. There is a movie as well but books usually trump all. :)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/0965045013/ref=redir_mdp_mobile

u/officeroffkilter · 4 pointsr/cars

You probably want this book:

http://www.amazon.com/Keep-Volkswagen-Alive-Step-Step/dp/1566913101

It is about air cooled VWs, but it goes through all the automotive systems. Later chapters cover things like VW disc brakes and fuel injection in the 1960s. It's a clear book with pictures and a humorous approach to the basics of a car. You can start from a point of no knowledge and get a pretty good idea of internal combustion principles.

Good luck!

u/superluke · 4 pointsr/cars

Every air-cooled VW owner needs at least one copy of this book.

Preferably more than one - one go use and get dirty, one to keep in the house.

u/LiveJay · 4 pointsr/beetle

You got this. Ask questions here and on thesamba when you need to. Pick up this book, and this one.

u/math-yoo · 4 pointsr/pics

There's an engine under the hood. It's a VW bus engine, so you're going to need to replace it in another thirty years. Start saving up. In the meantime buy this:

http://amzn.com/1566913101

u/aidanpryde18 · 4 pointsr/scooters

I definitely would not have a test ride of someone else's scooter be your first experience.

I recommend everyone, even if you never plan on riding a motorcylce, to take the Motorcycle Safety Foundation's Basic Rider Course. It's a 2.5 day course that will teach you everything you need to know to ride safely and it does it in a relatively safe, controlled environment. Depending on your area, they may even offer the Scooter Safety Course. Having to learn how to operate a manual bike at the same time may seem intimidating, but operating the controls is one of the easier parts of the course. The majority of it is how to handle the bike when things go wrong and that is something that translates directly to scooters as well.

Since you are looking at a freeway legal vehicle, you will really be doing yourself a favor to be properly trained. I have had incidents while riding that I know would have resulted in a crash had I not taken the course.

If you don't have a center in your area, I would recommend picking up the book Proficient Motorcycling. It won't replace hands-on instruction, but it will teach you the concepts that you need to understand.

Also, if you want a learner bike, go with something in the 150-200cc range. Buy it used and once you feel comfortable, you can sell it back for basically what you paid for it and purchase a bigger scoot.

Good luck and ride safe.

u/keith0718 · 4 pointsr/NewRiders

It would be bad if you weren't apprehensive. Your fear is a good sign that you respect the inherent dangers of motorcycling . I was in a somewhat similar situation - this time last year I was set on getting into motorcycling when I ran into the statistic that one is 30 times more likely to die on a bike that in a car. I got spooked. I did some research and after reading David Hough's book, Proficient Motorcycling I was confident that "it is possible to reduce the risks of motorcycling to an acceptable level through skill and knowledge", as Hough states in the introduction. But you really have to study the risks (through books like Hough's) and develop the skills and habits to avoid them.

I ended up starting on a 2014 Honda CB500F. I'm glad I didn't start on a 250, but there was one occasion where a bigger bike would have gotten me in trouble. You should be fine on a 650. Just be careful; don't throw yourself out there in situations that will require a skill set you haven't yet developed. Read books like Hough's so you know what's coming at you and the stupid things you should avoid.

u/calamari_kid · 4 pointsr/motorcycles

Sign up for the MSF course. Good way to get familiar with the basic workings of the bike and you'll have your endorsement at the end.

Pick up Proficient Motorcycling. Covers everything from road strategies to basic maintenance and will give you a solid foundation.

Keep the rubber side down and have fun!

u/SithLard · 4 pointsr/motorcycles

Proficient Motorcycling is a great book from a rider who's been doing it over 40 years. Also debunks a lot of bs noise about riders and riding with credible data.

u/friendly_jerk · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

You need to go to the track. Track days are friendly to even the most novice of riders.

Also, I recommend this book, and this one.

u/khafra · 3 pointsr/AskReddit

Space does not permit all the tips I've learned by reading this, this, this, this, and this.

But, briefly:

  • watch out for "edge traps"--where road work or a 2x4 in the street or anything similar can catch your tire and turn it to the side.

  • go somewhere safe, not on the road, and practice. Learn how hard you can apply your brakes, and how to ease off the back as you apply the front. Set up cones and practice various kinds of turns.

  • look far ahead, look all around, predict what other vehicles are going to do in one second, two seconds, five, ten.

  • Three words: Shots and wheelies.
u/Lumpy_bd · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

There is a book called A Twist of the Wrist by Keith Code. It's an absolute must for anybody who wants to improve on their cornering skills (amongst others) and it covers this very topic at length.

u/Xysten · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

This book is great if you're looking to improve at the track as well. There is also a dvd that covers most of the material in the book.

http://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-Basics-High-Performance-Motorcycle/dp/0965045021/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1342376172&sr=8-1&keywords=twist+of+the+wrist+2

u/Pogogunner · 3 pointsr/motorcycles
u/1esproc · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Nope. That's the whole point, vibrations, bad frame geometry, incorrect suspension settings, stuff like that can cause the rear end to do things like what's seen in the video. You should also consider that the front and rear tires are independent and of different radii, and can track independently which can be exacerbated based on surface, inflation and other factors

Check out a book called Motorcycle Dynamics. Just a cursory glance will show you motorcycles and the physics involved in a chassis are very complicated.

u/myVisionIsAugment3d · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

There are literally books written on the subject
https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Dynamics-Second-Vittore-Cossalter/dp/1430308613/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=motorcycle+dynamics&qid=1573548435&sprefix=motorcycle+dynamics&sr=8-3

edit: for more interesting topics bike-trike hybrid that cannot steer https://youtu.be/rNQdSfgJDNM

and bike that self balances without gyroscopic forces and trail https://youtu.be/YdtE3aIUhbU

u/az_max · 3 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

I learned using John Muir's manual. Simple to do.

u/dod2190 · 3 pointsr/Volkswagen

Who cares? You're 17! Whatever happens, you'll have a great story to tell for the rest of your life. I would have LOVED to go on an adventure like this at your age. Remember, "Adventure is misery recounted at leisure."

The car may be able to go about 65-70mph on the freeway but I wouldn't recommend running it at that speed for long. This car was made before the national 55mph speed limit but 60-65 is probably about as fast as you want to go on a sustained basis if the car's top speed is 73. Running ANY car at or near its maximum speed for any length of time stresses it pretty badly.

I *would* recommend that you carry a spare alternator belt, ignition points, spark plugs, and condenser. Know how to change those out at the side of the road, and how to set dwell and timing. Get a copy of How To Keep Your Volkswagen Alive by John Muir. Carry a rudimentary set of tools: assorted screwdrivers, assorted pliers, a set of metric combination wrenches, a metric socket set, a dwell meter and timing light.

It's not unlikely, if you get towed to a shop, that yours will be the first Bug the mechanic has seen outside of a museum or a car show. Mechanics who know how to work on those cars aren't that common, any more.

If this is a *literal* cross-country drive, like, you're starting out on or near the West Coast...be aware that we're heading into the time of year when roads and passes through the Rockies can get shut down because of snow conditions. If you're traveling through desolate areas, don't count on cellphones to work. If you'll be traveling through the desert, read this.

ETA: Hopefully you can get your parents to agree to all of this. Also, if this is a multi-day trip, at 17, you may have problems doing things like getting a motel room, because you're a minor. I'm not sure how that would work even if your parents were to authorize you to use one of their credit cards.

u/RISmachine · 3 pointsr/beetle

Highly recommend this book:

How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive: A Manual of Step-by-Step Procedures for the Compleat Idiot
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1566913101/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YWKWDbJE1NPDE

Includes lists of tools needed and what tools will be needed for specific jobs.

$15 well spent.

u/teninchtires · 3 pointsr/beetle

'Top end' usually refers to a valve job on the heads, and maybe it had the case bored out for bigger cylinders.

She looks beautiful! For a good explanation of the care and proper maintenance your bug, check out https://www.amazon.com/Keep-Volkswagen-Alive-Step-Step/dp/1566913101

u/the_adriator · 3 pointsr/aircooled

Sounds like the fuel pump to me. I always keep an extra in my trunk because I’ve had so many go bad on me (I’m on my 2nd electronic one after going through FIVE cam-driven ones in 2 years).

I’m heading for bed, so I can’t be much more help, but go over to thesamba.com and search the forums. That site is the absolute best!

Also buy the John Muir book if you don’t already own it. It was an excellent intro when I first got my Karmann Ghia.

u/dougdoberman · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Practice using the clutch on your buddy's ATV absolutely as much as he'll let you. Operating a clutch on a bike is probably the single most difficult thing to get a handle on because you're worried about falling over at the same time. :) If you can go into the class with a solid grasp on finding the friction zone and manipulating the clutch lever and throttle, you'll be way ahead and able to concentrate more fully on the actual riding part.

Ignore the idiots who are telling you that no studying is required. You are making an extra effort to educate yourself. That's always good.


Read Proficient Motorcycling by David Hough: https://www.amazon.com/Proficient-Motorcycling-Ultimate-Guide-Riding/dp/1620081199/ref=pd_sbs_14_2/131-3659562-5044126

Read Total Control by Lee Parks: https://www.amazon.com/Total-Control-Performance-Street-Techniques/dp/0760343446/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_14_t_0

Go watch MCRider & Motojitsu's Youtube channels.


Good luck. We look forward to hearing that you passed the class and have taken your first ride. :)

u/Stabme · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Everyone is saying take the MSF, which is absolutely correct, but the bare minimum. Ideally you should be learning as much as you can about motorcycles before you get to class. That way the information feels more like a refresher and allows you to devout more attention to the skills portion.

I recommend starting with the book, which is filled with great information.

Then watch youtube videos. Learn the controls and basic maneuvers. Watch people ride and practice scanning for threats(crash videos in particular work to highlight where the danger is).

u/whats_this_switch_do · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Practice and doing it is the only way. Just like you said it needs to become muscle memory and the only way to make that happen is to do it over and over and over. Like u/Some_Old_Man_Fishin said, find an empty parking lot and practice there. Do the drills you learned in your BRC again and again. Once you are comfortable enough just doing the basics, try adding some 'emergency' stops and lane changes and what not.

Proficient Motorcycling: The Ultimate Guide to Riding Well is a great resource and has tons of great information.

Also 150cc is a pretty small engine, with your weight + the weight of your gear, I wouldn't recommend any highway riding.

u/Diet_Christ · 3 pointsr/videos

Lol, nice edit.

Seriously just read, you don't know what you're talking about: https://www.amazon.com/Proficient-Motorcycling-Ultimate-Guide-Riding/dp/1620081199/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495428029&sr=8-1&keywords=proficient+motorcycling

edit: Just to put this to bed- yes, you can shift the center of balance and weight distribution of a motorcycle in any number of ways, one of which is front end geometry, but you will NEVER overcome this rule: the majority of your braking power is in the front.

I'm not arguing the baby basics of motorcycle handling with you any longer. You will not find a reputable source to back you, and if you live long enough, you'll learn anyways.

Countersteering is not an impressive reference. Again, these are the basics.

u/cdnrider1 · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Agree with all of the other comments and add these:

Watch this series.

Buy and read this. Regularly.

u/MistahGoobah · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

This is an excellent book that I'm currently reading: Proficient Motorcycling by David L Hough
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1620081199?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

If riding's your thing, you should definitely check out this book.

u/-Gravitron- · 3 pointsr/nfl

Take one of these courses and read this book. I was shitting my pants the first time I went over 25 mph, now I have 60k miles riding experience. Never give other drivers the benefit of the doubt and never stop trying to pick up little things to keep you safe. Cheers!

u/__xor__ · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Glad you're alright!

As a new rider, I highly suggest you pick up Proficient Motorcycling by David L Hough. It's an amazing book that is very honest about the risk, and lays out tons of techniques to handle stuff like different road hazards that you'll eventually run into, and how to basically perfect defensive riding.

A lot of this stuff isn't in the MSF manual, and the book goes into great detail about how to safely navigate through stuff like gravel on the road, around train tracks and any edge traps, oil on the road, slanted roads with bad traction, deers and dogs, etc. This kind of stuff will make you eat shit if you don't know how to handle it - it did me. We all have instincts for these emergency situations, instincts that can often be the wrong thing to do, like cutting your throttle as soon as you hit an oil patch and start slipping. You can't always trust your instincts and experience.

I've googled for a while trying to figure out these tips but it's really hard to find a good deal of information on the internet on this stuff. This book really puts it all together and teaches you how to be a safer rider. Highly recommend it.

Welcome to the club! And remember, about two years in when you're feeling much more confident as a rider, you're actually at a higher risk because riders get more cocky. stay safe

u/cartoonhead · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Do yourself a favor and read Proficient Motorcycling.

u/Scoobies · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

My dad made me read this book before I got my first bike
http://www.amazon.com/Proficient-Motorcycling-Ultimate-Guide-Riding/dp/1889540536 : good book about minimising risk while riding.
I got my bike at 28 (2004 dl650 vstrom)

u/rabidfurby · 3 pointsr/AskReddit

Rather than tell him anecdotal scare stories, get him to read the findings of the Hurt Report, which is the largest (and still one of the only) studies of motorcycle crashes & fatalities ever done.

Some of the more interesting bits of the summary:

> The motorcycle riders involved in accidents are essentially without training; 92% were self-taught or learned from family or friends.

> More than half of the accident-involved motorcycle riders had less than 5 months experience on the accident motorcycle, although the total street riding experience was almost 3 years.

> Almost half of the fatal accidents show alcohol involvement.

There's also a couple books, Proficient Motorcycling and More Proficient Motorcycling, which every motorcycle rider should read (in my humble but correct opinion).

u/antarcticgecko · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

For further reading, check out Proficient Motorcycling. This is an excellent resource and I generally recommend it whenever I can because I really believe it helped me become a better, safer rider.

He mentions that there was a growing concern about motorcycling safety so they rounded up a bunch of expert riders and put them into tough (staged) situations. So many of them crashed when trying to cross an uneven road surface that they came up with the "45 degree" rule.

u/canyonchaser · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

While this edit is significantly better, Code's techniques are still woefully outdated (and exceedingly complex). Please, if you really want to improve your riding, pass on Code and check out anything by Nick Ienatsch. Not only is his methodology way better, but what he teaches draws heavily from what we've learned from MotoGP/WSBK about how motorcycles actually operate.

His book is the best source for how to improve your riding. http://smile.amazon.com/Sport-Riding-Techniques-Develop-Confidence/dp/1893618072/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413476530&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=nick+ientasch

No affilliation whatsoever, but have been involved in motorcycle instruction for over 15 years.

u/redoctoberz · 3 pointsr/phoenix

Check this one out - https://www.amazon.com/Guide-Arizona-Backroads-4-Wheel-Drive-Trails/dp/1934838195

I have it on my desk, its really quite good.

u/te_anau · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

I agree, twist of the wrist definitely caters to those requiring a more, ugh, special education.
Try Sport-Riding-Techniques, Its written with a regular thinking folk in mind and contains plenty of clearly formed concepts/ techniques.

u/misterrF · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Read Proficient Motorcycling. It's a great book, and will give you exercises to practice and advice for how to ride safely and more confidently. Good luck.

http://www.amazon.com/Proficient-Motorcycling-Ultimate-Guide-Riding/dp/1889540536

u/YamahaRN · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Sport Riding Techniques by YCRS lead instructor Nick Ienatsch Essentially a good portion of the concepts in the school. A good primer if you're interested in investing in a class.

u/brien · 3 pointsr/Tucson

I don't have a specific recommendation, but I like to do the same thing and I've been using these two books to find good places to explore:

  1. Guide To Arizona Backroads & 4-Wheel-Drive Trails
  2. Arizona Trails South Region

    Both provide routes with descriptions, photos, waypoints and turn by turn callouts. Each trail has difficulty rating and in the case of the second book, there is also a remoteness rating. We typically pick a route, follow the waypoints as described in the book the first time to learn the area, and then when we go back we explore side trails and such.

    The first book has a lot of the more well known routes all are day-trip length, the second book has much more routes and much more detail. trips in that book range from a few hours to a few days long. Each trail on those books typically includes one or more pretty interesting things to see or do, we haven't been let down yet.

    If you don't have one yet, get a state land trust permit, many of the backroads and trails go on state trust land, so if a ranger finds you out there without your permit, you can get fined. It's only $15/20 per year and you can do it all online (for an extra $1) by going here: https://land.az.gov/recreational-permit-portal

    I lied: If you've read down this far, here's a specific location that is pretty neat: There's an old gin house at the end of the trail that leads to Little Fish Canyon. That should be enough to get you to find it on google maps. satellite view might show you the structure a bit. The building is fenced in to keep the animals out, you can undo the fence on the north side to get through, just make sure to connect it back up when you are done. You can open window covers to peek in and get a better look, but make sure you close it all back up when you are done. do NOT enter the building, that might get you in trouble. All around those trails are a number of mines as well. most (all?) are sealed with gates to protect the bats, but still kind cool to look in.

    If you are on Facebook, search for "Tucson Jeeps" group and join it. People there are organizing runs all the time. Some of the trails are difficult and/or remote enough that you'll definitely want to go with others just in case.

    EDIT: oh, and about the cows, don't worry about driving through the cows, just take it slow and quiet. they WILL move out of the way before you bump them. I never really knew what to do until I ran across a huge herd being walked right down the middle of a highway once. The rancher was like "You don't have to stop, just keep driving, they'll move!"
u/mjxii · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Add stomp grips! They will allow you to hook your leg and stay solidly in control. My tank was so slippery I felt like I was going to fall off and kept smashing my nuts under hard barking. Added stomp grips and I stay put.

Seriously, get them!

Also watch / read twist of the wrist
and I got this: http://www.amazon.com/Sport-Riding-Techniques-Develop-Confidence/dp/1893618072/ref=pd_sim_b_44

u/pwnd_nz · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Does what you're doing look like how Rossi does it?
If so, you're probably doing it wrong. ;)

-- Sounds like you're using the weight of your body to pull the bike around the corner, rather than steering it around the corner, I do this in a more subtle way by shifting my weight on the footpegs and if it's a big corner, shifting my ass to the inside of the seat...

Have a read of this (there's an e-book version available from your favorite torrent search) Sports Riding Techniques - Nick Ienatsch

In the book it explains how a tyre has a maximum of 100 points worth of grip (these points are arbitrary, they're just to illustrate the point)

When you're coming out of a corner, you are using most of your 100 points for cornering grip, if you apply too much throttle, you'll dedicate too many points to acceleration, overwhelm the tyre and you'll lose traction.

-- In my experience (relatively limited but I'm studious when it comes to staying alive) It all comes down to how smoothly you apply the throttle on exit as to whether you'll break traction in a bad way or not and head for the scenery... - eventually, you'll learn that limit and if you're being smooth, it'll be recoverable.

u/tetrahydrofuran · 3 pointsr/bicycling

In a book I'm currently reading (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bicycling-Science-David-Gordon-Wilson/dp/0262731541), there's a "mile/gallon" calculation for various modes of transport. Bicycles work out to be in the order of 500 mpg, if we assume there's food with the same calorific value as petrol... While not a particularly useful comparison, it puts things into perspective.

u/splendidtree · 3 pointsr/formula1

>teach each other racing techniques

Kind of seems like you are familiar but for those who aren't, Speed Secrets by Ross Bentley is usually recommended for new people looking to understand a bit more about fast driving techniques.

u/kokopelli73 · 3 pointsr/Karting

No kidding, start with this.

u/soinside · 3 pointsr/iRacing

In this book, Ultimate Speed Secrets, he basically says to brake hard with ABS because that's the whole point. I still can't let myself do that completely but I mainly drive GTE.

u/Lryder2k6 · 3 pointsr/assettocorsa

Read this book, seriously. I've been sim racing for almost a decade and have been reading it recently and even though I know the vast majority of stuff in it I'm still picking up helpful tidbits, or finding new ways to think about stuff. I wish I had read it when I got started. Even though I got fairly good very quickly, I would have reached my current level much faster if I had read the book back then.

u/Forzathong · 3 pointsr/simracing

If you like books I would get Ben Collins: How To Drive. There are a lot of techniques that he goes over regarding how to brake, how to corner. All of these will apply to you driving on the street as well as on the track.

Ben Collin's

Alternatively, if you like very black and white instruction then I would suggest Ultimate Speed Secrets. It is not as entertaining as Ben Collins's book but it touches on the same material as well as a little more in depth analysis.

Ultimate Speed Secrets

u/frank_n_bean · 3 pointsr/formula1

This question has been asked a bunch of times, but the one post I've found the most helpful was /u/that_video_art_guy's response in this post. For quick reference, here's the copy/paste:



I've read many of these books, I'm partial to the mechanics and team member books but find all of them to be very enjoyable.


The Super Collective Super list of Super Good F1 Books:

Mechanics/Team Members


[Life in the Pit Lane: Mechanic's Story of the Benetton Grand Prix Year](
http://www.amazon.com/Life-Pit-Lane-Mechanics-Benetton/dp/0760300267/ref=sr_1_5?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1356716346&sr=1-5&keywords=steve+matchett) - Steve Matchett

[The Mechanic's Tale: Life in the Pit-Lanes of Formula One](
http://www.amazon.com/Mechanics-Tale-Life-Pit-Lanes-Formula/dp/0752827839/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1356716346&sr=1-1&keywords=steve+matchett) - Steve Matchett

The Chariot Makers: Assembling the Perfect Formula 1 Car - Steve Matchett

Team Lotus: My View From the Pitwall - Peter Warr

Jo Ramirez: Memoirs of a Racing Man - Jo Ramirez

Art of War - Five Years in Formula One - Max Mosley, Adam Parr, Paul Tinker

Tales from the Toolbox: A Collection of Behind-the-Scenes Tales from Grand Prix Mechanics - Michael Oliver, Jackie Stewart


Technical Books

Red Bull Racing F1 Car: Haynes Owners' Workshop Manual

McLaren M23: 1973 Haynes Owners' Workshop Manual

Lotus 72: 1970 Haynes Owners' Workshop Manual

Tune to Win: The art and science of race car development and tuning - Carroll Smith

Engineer to Win - Carroll Smith

Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners and Plumbing Handbook AKA: Screw to Win - Carroll Smith

Race Car Vehicle Dynamics: Problems, Answers and Experiments - Doug Milliken

Chassis Design: Principles and Analysis - William F. Milliken, Douglas L. Milliken, Maurice Olley

The Racing & High-Performance Tire: Using Tires to Tune for Grip & Balance - Paul Haney


Technical Driving

Ultimate Speed Secrets: The Complete Guide to High-Performance and Race Driving - Ross Bentley

Going Faster! Mastering the Art of Race Driving - Carl Lopez

Working the Wheel - Martin Brundle


Drivers and Rivalry's

Senna Versus Prost: The Story of the Most Deadly Rivalry in Formula One - Malcolm Folley

The Limit: Life and Death on the 1961 Grand Prix Circuit - Michael Cannell

Winning Is Not Enough: The Autobiography - Sir Jackie Stewart

Shunt: The Story of James Hunt - Tom Rubython

Alex Zanardi: My Sweetest Victory: A Memoir of Racing Success, Adversity, and Courage - Alex Zanardi, Gianluca Gasparini, Mario Andretti.

It Is What It Is: The Autobiography - David Coulthard

Flat Out, Flat Broke: Formula 1 the Hard Way! - Perry McCarthy The Black Stig, Damon Hill

F1 Through the Eyes of Damon Hill: Inside the World of Formula 1 - Damon Hill, Photography: Sutton Images


People Of F1

Life at the Limit: Triumph and Tragedy in Formula One - Professor Sid Watkins

Beyond the Limit - Professor Sid Watkins

I Just Made The Tea: Tales from 30 years inside Formula 1 - Di Spires

Bernie: The Biography of Bernie Ecclestone - Susan Watkins


Picture Books

McLaren The Cars: Updated 2011 Edition

Art of the Formula 1 Race Car - Stuart Codling, James Mann, Peter Windsor, Gordon Murray

u/tarheel91 · 3 pointsr/cars

Here are the two best intro books on the subject:

https://www.amazon.com/Race-Car-Vehicle-Dynamics-Experiments/dp/0768011272

https://www.amazon.com/Fundamentals-Vehicle-Dynamics-Premiere-Books/dp/1560911999

Formula SAE in college is a great resource. Look for a co-op opportunity in vehicle design (it'll probably have to be in Michigan unless you're lucky or go into commercial truck). Experience is highly valued when you're trying to get that intro level job because co-ops and internships are so widely available in the industry.

u/jmihalchik · 3 pointsr/Cartalk

the turbo piece get the book
maximum boost

https://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Boost-Turbocharger-Engineering-Performance/dp/0837601606/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1500339982&sr=1-1&keywords=maximum+boost

the rebuild piece plenty of rebuild books out there, check this one out since its very similar (import 4 cylinder)

https://www.amazon.com/High-Performance-Honda-Builders-Handbook/dp/1884089216/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1500339882&sr=1-3&keywords=high+performance+engine+build

to do it right you will need some new tools to your collection.
borescope (plasti gauge), ring files, piston ring compressors, torque wrench, feeler gauges, straight edge, to name a few
a great machine shop (more than just the head resurface, line hone, bore and hone, valve guides/seats/angle cuts)
a factory service manual is key (torque specs and specific details on your engine vs a basic covers it all book).
Research your cars engine and see what have worked well for others. let them teach you what parts to stay away from.
good luck

u/thebornotaku · 3 pointsr/Cartalk

Probably the first upgrade any turbo car owner should be is buying this book: http://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Boost-Turbocharger-Engineering-Performance/dp/0837601606/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1342897180&sr=8-1&keywords=corky+bell

Corky Bell is a damn smart man, and he even runs BEGi, who specializes in turbo systems for Miatas mostly, but they make a bunch of universal parts as well.

u/midareashi · 3 pointsr/cars

There are some good comments here already so I'll just recommend Maximum Boost if you want to read up on turbocharging.

u/bab5871 · 3 pointsr/MachinePorn

It's an OK placement. You really want the BOV as close to the throttle body as possible... this gives the fastest release of the pressure from the system.

For anyone interested... there's a great book called Maximum Boost on designing and building turbo systems... LOTS of good information in there.

u/kamoylan · 3 pointsr/bicycling

I've built many wheels over the years and find each new build is easier than the one before. The hardest part is choosing the components and getting the spoke length right. Components can be researched on the web (manufacturers' web sites, reviews & opinions) and the LBS can work out the right spoke length for you.

When I'm building a wheel, my attitude is that my time is valuable and I won't waste it by using sub-standard parts (or previously used spokes) and hoping that nothing breaks.

The process of building a wheel can be broken into three parts:

1: Getting all the bits (the fun part);

2: Spoking the wheel (the basket weaving part);

3: Truing the wheel (the tedious but rewarding part).

I have used and can recommend The Bicycle Wheel by Jobst Brandt as a book to get started with. I have also read Building Bicycle Wheels by Robert Wright. It got me enthused, but was a little simplistic for me.

You will also need some tools: a spoke key and a truing stand.

u/spdorsey · 3 pointsr/bicycling

I've been building my own wheels since the 90's. I use this book, it's my bible.

Post your results!

u/foggymtnspecial · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Hey! Welcome to the awesome world of motorcycles. I'm new to r/motorcycles, but not motorcycles.

Ouch, this video is a classic case of what are called "survival reactions" causing the rider to go exactly where they didn't want to go. He probably entered the corner too quickly, misjudged the radius, felt uncomfortable about his traction, unsure of his bad body position, etc, and then panicked and did several things:

  • tightened up on the bars (which straightens up the bike)
  • braked (which straightens up the bike)
  • target fixated (which straightens up the bike)
    I'm sure you see the pattern here. A sport bike can lean over for days. For example, racers can drag their elbow on a race track with a stock sport bike on DOT tires; okay, race DOTs, but you get the point.

    Here's some more on survival reactions: http://www.beginnerbikers.org/showthread.php?37861-Keith-Code-and-Survival-Reactions

    This guy got super lucky. It could've been way worse. I won't say he's dumb; you will make mistakes and panic at some point while riding bikes, but if you don't want to be this guy, here's my advice:
  • wear protective gear for crying out loud!
  • avoid speeding on the street, it will get you hurt
  • go to the track! seriously, it's so much fun for beginners and experts alike
  • check out TOTW: http://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-Motorcycle-Roadracers-Handbook/dp/0965045013
  • consider a Code or other bike racing school, even if you don't plan on racing, these schools will help you understand how to be a safer rider on the street

    Have fun and keep the sticky side down!
    Edit: formatting :)
u/mbeels · 2 pointsr/askscience

That exact question is addressed in David Wilson's "Bicycle Science" book. Don't have the reference handy, but it is an interesting read.

u/tuctrohs · 2 pointsr/bicycling

The book Bicycling Science is a great resource. It doesn't have all the answers but it has some really good information as a starting point to understand some of the more recent discussions.

https://www.amazon.com/Bicycling-Science-Press-Gordon-Wilson/dp/0262731541/

If I recall correctly that's more about handling than rider fit. The modern approach to rider fit is based on stack and reach, which you can read about here:

https://www.slowtwitch.com/Bike_Fit/Choosing_a_Tri_Bike_via_Stack_and_Reach/The_Stacktennial_3432.html



u/Sleeveless9 · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/0262731541/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/179-6181336-7358164

This book is pretty thorough. Might be worth a buy considering your interests.

u/Franks2000inchTV · 2 pointsr/iRacing

I just started -- the first thing is just learning how to drive like a race car driver. It's a lot different than other racing games.

There are a lot of good resources online on how to drive fast. Or if you want a good book check out https://www.amazon.ca/Speed-Secrets-Professional-Driving-Techniques/dp/0760305188

The first little while will be pretty frustrating. Learning a new track and new car involves a lot of spins and crashes. There will be new stuff you're not used to -- going over a small bump in the track will cause the wheels to lose grip. Braking and turning at the same time will send you into a spin.

Spend a whole just learning the track -- several hours at least, until you can drive clean laps without wrecking.

Once you can get around the track a couple times without going off, then jump into an open practice. There you'll learn how to be on track with other cars. Try following other cars around the track. See if you can drive close to them without wrecking. Learn to follow someone into a corner and stay with them coming out.

When you're ready to move up to racing, don't think about winning for the first little while. You'll just end up wrecking and feeling frustrated.

The first job is just to get the car back safely. Think of a race as just lapping with other cars. Honestly if you start in last place, you will probably finish fourth or fifth if all you do is just keep the car on the track. Learn how to let a faster car go by without hitting them (harder than it seems.)

As you get faster, you'll start to be competitive and then you can start racing. Then you'll learn how to pass people without hitting them (also harder than it seems.)

The more you can stay calm and avoid crashes, the better off you'll be. That's true at every level.

Also as you level up, don't feel like you have to race in the highest class. I moved up to the IMSA races too quickly and I wasn't really ready for it. I got DQ'D from.a couple races, and it knocked my rating waaaay down.

So I've dropped back down to the Skip Barber car and I'm having a lot more fun. This isn't like other games where you have to level up to have fun. Your rating is about your driving skill, and it's better to have along slow climb than to yo-yo up and down, wrecking along the way.

Oh -- also check out the Crew Chief app. I just installed it (it's free) and it's way better than the built in spotter.

Good luck! Have fun!

u/vazfx16 · 2 pointsr/Karting

You are going to have to try some different things to see which impact times the most (make notes of you changes and the results. One thing to keep in mind is after the long fast straights, try to hold speed as long as possible by early apexing the turns. Before the straights, you want to late apex so that you can straighten out the turn and get on the gas earlier. Check out some racing books too like: https://www.amazon.com/Speed-Secrets-Professional-Driving-Techniques/dp/0760305188/ref=nodl_

u/CoconutDust · 2 pointsr/forza

Ah, I've had this same problem myself sometimes. There are a few ways to approach the problem.

TRANSMISSION

You can look at your transmission, as mkhockeygeek mentioned. I recently posted a short gear ratio tuning guide here. My procedure is for using the engine's power band, which should give you efficient performance in general as you accelerate through your gears. This is a different strategy than what BIGSTIG recommends, so your mileage may vary.

Adjusting your transmission will only fix the problem if your car has plenty of power that was not being utilized. Unfortunately, installing an adjustable transmission adds to your PI points, which means a sacrifice somewhere else, so it may not help you. I think that the highly experienced tuner "Worm" said that a race transmission is almost never worth it.

All-wheel-drive cars have fast launch and acceleration, but lower top speed, so you'll get passed on the straights. Keep that in mind if you converted your drivetrain.


TIRES versus ENGINE STRENGTH

But there is something more basic to think about. You mentioned you can hang in the corners, but you get passed on the straights. I think this means that your car has good handling, which is important, but this comes at the expense of speed. For example, if you install narrow tires or less grippy tires, you can move those PI over to the engines power. Because many human beings like flashy powerful things and "big numbers", a lot of people are tuned for speed, not handling, so they are really fast on the straights. Downgrading your handling will let you upgrade your speed stat and compete on the straights.

"It is the car that wins in the straights, but it is the driver who wins in the corners." I like this quote. I am personally more interested in corners than straights. However, any great racing teacher will attest, rightfully, that torque wins races. You spend more time accelerating than cornering. Make sure you have the torque you need to beat the pack.

YOUR DRIVING

Usually the driver who begins accelerating earlier out of a corner will be the fastest. You should think carefully about your racing line and make sure you take corners in the way that lets you (1) maintain as much speed as possible and (2) accelerate as soon possible! Here is where BIGSTIG's tuning guide can come in handy, since by adjusting your roll bars, differential, camber, and springs, you may be able to corner faster and accelerate sooner.

The "driving" is how slower cars beat fast cars. A weak car used effectively can of course beat a powerful car that is sloppy.

u/jibbsplaysgames · 2 pointsr/cars

There are excellent books on this. If you have a kindle, one book worth getting is Ultimate Speed Secrets by Ross Bentley. He knows his shit, and this book will give you a boatload of information. Best $12 I ever spent. The general knowledge stuff will help you be a much better driver on the street as well, especially in adverse conditions.

https://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Speed-Secrets-Complete-High-Performance/dp/0760340501

u/ed7coyne · 2 pointsr/simracing

I can't recommend "Ross Bentley's speed secrets" enough as a resource for learning to drive well. It's succinct and a good resource to read and re-read picking up new hints as you go. The author is a ex indycar racer who is pretty well known as one of the best driving coaches around these days (for the west coast US at least).

https://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Speed-Secrets-Complete-High-Performance/dp/0760340501

Aside from that as mentioned above these are sims more than games and you can't expect to jump in and go. New tracks will take a hour or more to really learn, for each one. You have to enjoy the challenge to enjoy this sport.

u/Binat88 · 2 pointsr/RRRE

With my experience I can say that everything above 100 feels good but is decent. The question is how consistent are you driving? And can you hold this difficulty on more then 2 tracks?

How good are you in overtaking this AI? How good are you managing your tyres etc etc etc.

This is just a bunch of question to dertemine your skill. As you see it is hard to define a good driver.

But with my experience: (I am very consistent, having troubles with tyre usage and I am a strong fighter) I can tell you you should be able to feel good in online races with this perfomance. Depends on your opponent you should be able to become 5th to 10th in a race with 16th to 18th ppl.

But keep on praticing every inch of the difficulty gives you a huge boost. So for instance 104 to 108 means you are twice as good as you are now. Really good ppl are driving 120 and the ppl right below are going 115.

I am using, depending on car I drive, 106 to 110 and competing in online leagues. ;)

I hope I could help you a bit. If you are struggling with your perfomance:

http://www.amazon.de/Ultimate-Speed-Secrets-Complete-High-Performance/dp/0760340501/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1457359706&sr=8-2&keywords=ross+bentley

I can highly recommend this book. Its a summary of 40 years racing coach experience. And will boost your mindset in between the first few pages :)

u/sluggyjunx · 2 pointsr/CarTrackDays

Pyrometer

Low profile jack stands (flat feet, safe for tarmac)

Racing gloves

RaceQuip Helmet Support

A GoPro off-brand accessory kit To help mounting that GoPro to whatever you want to mount it to.

Some Mechanix gloves lots of options

Paint markers various colors.

F4 self-sealing silicone tape

Going Faster
Speed Secrets
High-Performance Handling for Street or Track

Another few things would be to find out what the driver uses for brake pads, brake fluid, rotors, oil filter, etc., as those can be pricey and nice gifts. (I use Hawk DTC-60 front, HP+ rear pads, Motul RBF-600 fluid)

Portable battery powered air pump for tires I have one very similar to this. It's cheap and great to use for adjusting pressures before sessions.

A decent tire pressure gauge This is the one I have and have used for several years and I have been very happy with it.

A subscription to Grassroots Motorsports

Torque wrench, +200 ft/lbs This is the one I have been using for a few years and it works well.

I've got lots of other ideas for tools and such; specific socket sets, impact gun & sockets, special bits for your car, magnet, flash lights/head lamp/stick light, channel locks, stubby sockets, various wrenches, extensions, breaker bar, bits, allen wrenches, vice grips, pry bars, adapters, pliers, cutters, etc that would be good to put on your list if you don't have them in your kit.

Happy holidays!

u/Gorhob · 2 pointsr/cars

If you'd like to learn to be a better driver and gain some knowledge about the fastest way to get around a track, I recommend reading something like this book, it made me aware of mistakes I was making and is very easy to read. it shows diagrams of lines to take into corners etc. It doesn't have to be that one, there are many like it, that's just the one I personally used.

u/Ottomatik80 · 2 pointsr/cars

Read Ultimate Speed Secrets

https://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Speed-Secrets-Complete-High-Performance/dp/0760340501

Understand the concept of the traction circle.
Learn how your vehicle behaves, as another poster suggested, utilize an empty parking lot in the rain or the snow.
Smooth is fast, don't be a ham fisted dolt.
Driving is like a dance, use your current maneuver to set up your next.

Never push your car on public roads. Keep it on the track, or where you can't hurt someone else.

u/Aznarr23 · 2 pointsr/formula1

This was $3 on cyber monday.

u/kowalski71 · 2 pointsr/motorsports

In a word, yes. I know there is a way. I know it has to do with things like Ackerman and every other damn suspension variable. Unfortunately I do not know how to do it (engine guy here). Check out RCVD by Milliken. Good luck!

u/dirtyuncleron69 · 2 pointsr/askscience

The 'bible' for vehicle dynamics is the Milliken and Milliken Race Car Vehicle Dynamics which has all the relevant equations and analysis to show how vehicles work. It's a really good book.

If you're looking for more of an intro book, and not so much detalied mathematical description, Gillespie's Fundamentals of Vehicle Dynamics.

u/alecwatersmusic · 2 pointsr/cars

Coming from someone who is very into cars and hungry to learn about them, this book was recently referred to me.

u/teh12 · 2 pointsr/cars

Spend $20 and buy this book...it will be your bible! Seriously!

Maximum Boost

u/Manitcor · 2 pointsr/funny

If you want to learn about boost and are serious about learning then you must buy the bible of boost

More than you ever wanted to know about creating a good FI setup.

u/AnIncognitoBystander · 2 pointsr/Miata

Huge learning curve and I agree the site is pretty difficult to get used to. Here are some bookmarks i saved from when i was researching. Hopefully it'll help you out. Happy boosting!

Turbo parts suggestions and advice:

http://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo-discussion-14/any-advice-building-turbo-kit-comparable-fm-ii-hydra-scratch-83155/

Feul inj. conversion:

http://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx

Book to read before tackling the project (basics of tuning and etc.):

http://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Boost-Turbocharger-Engineering-Performance/dp/0837601606

u/NotLucas · 2 pointsr/cars

All I could find is this: http://powerhouse411.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1_5

There are much cheaper eBay kits, but I think it goes without saying that if you know anything about turbocharging a vehicle you don't want to get an entire kit off of eBay.

You can do it for cheaper if you're handy and want to DIY, I recommend reading both http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1932494294?pc_redir=1410935474&robot_redir=1

And: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/0837601606?pc_redir=1410868060&robot_redir=1


The first deals heavily into understanding how it all works and makes you more comfortable with the process. The second will teach you everything you need to know about adding a turbo to a (your) vehicle.

Reading these will save you a lot of money if you end up deciding not to turbo your car, or they will build your confidence in it. I think a turbo V6 would be unique instead of the "V8 cop out".

After that do as much research as you can into your vehicle and read up on some v6 turbo builds, I'm sure it's been done. A turbo v6 can end up putting down some serious power (Note: GNX). Reading other builds will give you an idea of the overall cost. If you can part together a decent kit for pretty cheap, you still have to see if the trans and supporting parts can handle it.

http://www.mustangevolution.com/forum/f133/t10565/


If you're still interested after all of that, don't rule out superchargers! Larger engines tend to accept them better and you won't experience any lag.

u/GabLeGrand · 2 pointsr/carmodification

Right now i have a mazda 3 2008 2.0l but i don't plan on modding it. I'm not a muscle car guy myself and one day(when i'll have my own garage) i might try to get an old bmw e46(still efi because i don't want a carb) and get started with that. I've already read a book about turbo and it was very interesting and now i think i have a decent knowledge about them. The problem is that even if i know everything about turbo but not a single thing about how to make my engine support it i won't go far away from my future garage and that is why i need a book to learn about the engine(how it works, parts and their pros/cons of material, machining, efi even if i know it'll certainly not be in the same book, etc...)

Here's the book about turbo if you were wondering: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/0837601606/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Taniwha_NZ · 2 pointsr/simracing

You could at least give the rest of us a link, unless you were planning to keep the secrets to yourself ;)

https://www.amazon.com/Going-Faster-Mastering-Race-Driving/dp/0837602262

u/Casefacemcgee · 2 pointsr/simracing

Going Faster, the Skip Barber book.

Edit for Amazon link:

Going Faster! Mastering the Art of Race Driving https://www.amazon.com/dp/0837602262/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_JEK2wbPN6JSZV

u/ccpsg · 2 pointsr/Karting

As a beginner, you're going to benefit way more from getting your form and technique in line before you start tweaking things with the kart. Change one thing at a time until you get a handle on things.

Karting techniques:
http://www.amazon.com/Bob-Bondurant-Race-Kart-Driving/dp/0760310769

http://www.amazon.com/The-Karting-Manual-Beginners-Competitive/dp/0857330861/

http://www.amazon.com/Kart-Driving-Techniques-Jim-Hall/dp/0936834471/

Not karting specific:
http://www.amazon.com/Going-Faster-Mastering-Race-Driving/dp/0837602262/

u/beernutmark · 2 pointsr/simracing

You are probably entering with too much speed. In levels of importance when racing are

  1. Proper driving line -- Make sure you are using all the track and not apexing too early or late.

  2. Exit speed -- You want to be as fast as possible on the exit to carry the speed down the straights.

  3. Entry Speed -- This is the last one to worry about and usually only shaves tenths from a lap time. The previous two will shave seconds.

    Too many drivers focus on entering as fast as they can which messes up both their line and their exit speed and makes them slower overall.

    Also, in the MX5 weight shift is key. To get the car rotating release the throttle. You will get throttle-lift oversteer which is the key to rotating the car into the turn.

    I highly recommend buying and reading this: http://www.amazon.com/Going-Faster-Mastering-Race-Driving/dp/0837602262
u/plausiblycredulous · 2 pointsr/BMW

Ultimate Speed Secrets by Ross Bentley
http://www.motorbooks.com/books/Ultimate-Speed-Secrets/9780760340509/4185

Bentley has several books that cover specific topics. This book pulls all of that together in one volume.

------------


Going Faster by Carl Lopez
http://www.amazon.com/Going-Faster-Mastering-Race-Driving/dp/0837602262

An old standby.

u/Poison_Pancakes · 2 pointsr/iRacing

Here's the video you were looking for!

You can also get it in book form, which I think goes into more detail.

If you're interested in going even deeper, Drive To Win by Carroll Smith is a good one, and you'll even learn what it takes to be successful in real-life racing.

Tune To Win also really good if you're interested in learning about set-up, but if you're just starting out then focusing on driving is by far the most important thing. The skippy car doesn't have many set-up options anyways.

u/b214n · 2 pointsr/formula1

Hayne's manual on Red Bull's first championship winning car, the RB6

https://www.amazon.com/Red-Bull-Racing-Car-Championship-Winning/dp/0857330993

u/JimmerUK · 2 pointsr/formula1

If you like that, you should check out the RBR Haynes manual.

u/CL-MotoTech · 2 pointsr/CafeRacers

If you read these four Carroll Smith books you'll be more knowledgeable than just about every person here. They are by an large the foundational bibles of modern race car building, maintenance, and design. Don't let any engineer tell you differently. All of this info is easily applied to motorcycle mechanics, design, and engineering.

https://www.amazon.com/Tune-Win-science-development-tuning/dp/0879380713/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8

https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-Win-Carroll-Smith/dp/0615754090/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8

https://www.amazon.com/Fasteners-Plumbing-Handbook-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0879384069/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8

https://www.amazon.com/Prepare-Win-Bolts-Professional-Preparation/dp/0615547338/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8

u/DeathDeathDeath · 2 pointsr/F1Porn

I totally remember reading about this in Tune to Win, but I forget the reason why it was.

It may have had to do with the fact that they used Swing Axle front suspension, so the camber angle change during body roll was the opposite of what it is with double wishbone (the reason people run negative camber these days).

u/brzcory · 2 pointsr/Autocross

Get the STi springs. Subaru spent a couple hundred grand engineering them for a reason.

Are the strut bars bumping you up a class? If so ditch them and run in a more proper class.

As for the bodyroll, that might be a driver mod. Too much braking, not enough gas. Scoobies don't like lifting. That being said, your first problem is absolutely lack of suspension travel due to the drop. 1.6" is a TON of lost travel, and those rates are per inch, which you've chopped off.

I don't think your spring rate is too high, STi's are over 200 stock. But those Epic springs are 100% for looks, and not for handling. Even says so on their website.

>Epic Engineering springs are designed to give your Subaru a more aggressive stance, and increase the intensity of the driving experience while maintaining a smooth and comfortable ride

Further:

>The decrease in ride height effectively lowers the coefficient of gravity, as well as the front roll center and hence inclines the vehicle roll axis further up to the rear.

And, as anyone who's read "Tune to Win" can tell you, lowering the front roll center will promote understeer.

So change the springs for the STi ones. Takes an hour if you DIY and borrow the spring compressors from Autozone (or buy a set for like $40). Just make sure you get the cone washer on top of the struts going the right way!

u/Son_of_Trogdor · 2 pointsr/cars
u/MGTS · 2 pointsr/bicycling
u/nhluhr · 2 pointsr/wheelbuild

There are some far better resources:

  1. Professional Guide to Wheelbuilding (Roger Musson)

  2. The Art of Wheelbuilding (Gerd Schraner)

  3. The Bicycle Wheel (Jobst Brandt)

    Seriously, spend time digesting these sources before you even start to build. Think about the differences each source shows in technique or engineering choices.

    I would urge you to focus less on part weight and more on part quality for your goals.
u/spleeble · 2 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

You should buy a used copy of this book and follow the procedure described in the book. Trial and error is going to get very frustrating.

u/DonOblivious · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

>I'll definitely be doing butted spokes!

Please do. The best wheelbuilders in the world will tell you to use butted spokes in their books and on their websites. We're talking about guys like Jobst Brandt, Sheldon Brown, and Peter White. I'll leave it up to you to confirm what I'm saying, but, butted spokes make stronger wheels.

Put simply: the thin middle section of a butted spoke can expand and contract to take stress off the rim. It also takes stress off the J-Bend of the spoke. I'm a fat-as-fuck rider and 100% of the spokes I've broken (and I've broken a lot) happen at the J-Bend.

If you want to research further you can read https://www.amazon.com/Bicycle-Wheel-3rd-Jobst-Brandt/dp/0960723668

If you do you'll understand why I had a rear wheel built 3-cross instead of 4-cross.

u/TGilbertPE · 2 pointsr/engineering

There's an interesting book out about the structural mechanics of bicycle wheels: "The Bicycle Wheel" by Jobst Brandt http://www.amazon.com/The-Bicycle-Wheel-3rd-Edition/dp/0960723668
Under all but the most extreme conditions, the pretension in the spokes allows the spokes under the hub to carry most of the gravity load (by reducing the pretension). In plane torsion from acceleration is more evenly distributed.

u/AndyFatBoyMorris · 2 pointsr/ukbike

I have the [Wheel Building Book] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Bicycle-Wheel-Jobst-Brandt/dp/0960723668) and live near Leeds. If you borrow it, its a good excuse for me to get some miles on a Sunday. PM me if you want to borrow it.

u/lee-c · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

The Bicycle Wheel is generally billed as the book on bicycle wheels. If you really wanted to understand the nuts and bolts (nipples and eyelets?), that should get you started. I've found Sheldon's page on the matter plenty for my limited aspirations. Don't be afraid to hit up r/wheelbuild too.

u/setofskills · 2 pointsr/nononono

Twist of the Wrist, a must read for anyone wanting to learn how to ride better.

u/mesablue · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

It comes down to your skill level. Rear braking and downshifting can set up your rear suspension, braking with power helps you control your exit.

Shifting works the same way.....

Way over simplified, but it's a good idea to get used to the feeling of controlled braking and/or adding power through corners. You never know when an off camber or decreasing radius turn ( or something slick that knocks you off your line) will toss something scary at you.

My racing days were a LONG time ago. A good first read -- http://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-Motorcycle-Roadracers-Handbook/dp/0965045013

Also, anything that works on the track will help you on the road. Being able to maneuver and or stop ridiculously fast will help avoid most incidents in traffic.

I'm just learning how to do it on a big cruiser. The first time I grabbed a handful of front brake last week at a quick light, I almost blew through the intersection (after 25 years of riding.) Today I was giving those big brembos all they could take to find out where my loss of traction would start and to see how stable the bike is with some front wheel slide. Very stable, happy to say. But, I had to know.

u/Quagga_1 · 2 pointsr/SuggestAMotorcycle

NP. You can't really go wrong with either option ;-)

​

But [SERIOUS]ly.

My only real concern is that you might be making your rookie mistakes on a relatively fast motorbike.

You mentioned that you've got some experience, which is good. You also inferred that you might want to push your MT-09 on a twisty mountain road in the Norwegian countryside, which makes me both terribly jealous and a bit worried.

If you are planning to ride well within your limits (and speed limits) you might well get by with your stringent Norse license and self-control. But if you plan on riding harder (and who doesn't) sooner or later you will get yourself into a sticky situation. ABS and traction control are wonderful aids, but both rely on rider input.

Be honest with yourself regarding your own experience. Disregard this post if you've ridden thousands of kilometers, made your mistakes and learnt your lessons. Otherwise I'd really recommend you do everything possible to boost your experience with (relative) low risk. Attend a track school or high-performance riding lessons or even an off-road academy. And check out Keith Code's Twist of the Wrist series (see Amazon and Youtube) for some riding theory.

Motorbikes are wonderful things, but they can bite hard. You too will make mistakes. Mitigate the consequence!

u/ilolatstuff · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

I've been riding for a year now and I feel like I've got some of the basics covered, IMO.

By basics I mean: general notions of how the bike works in terms of the physics involved; gyroscope effect, counter-steering, how acceleration/deceleration effects the suspension, traction, etc. I also understand and practice cornering (where and if appropriate), rev-match downshifts, try to lean into the turns and hang-off the bike (this is my current biggest issue), etc.

My guides have been Sport Riding Techniques, the Twist of the Wrist 2 DVD and I am currently going through the Twist of the Wrist 2 book.

I understand a lot of the skills needed to ride are practiced daily but I also feel like it's impossible to know certain things if not told by a more experienced rider. At this time I feel like I am not correctly hanging off the bike at turns that could benefit from it, either because I might be leaning too far on turns that might not need it so much (or the opposite) or that I might be hanging off incorrectly (probably both, tho) and upsetting the bike.

I'm basically scared to go to a track and find that I lack the required skill level but then again I don't know how I could get to this level without someone actually telling me what I am doing wrong.

u/alexpap031 · 2 pointsr/greece

Σου προτείνω για αρχή αυτό αν ξέρεις καλά αγγλικά.

https://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-Motorcycle-Roadracers-Handbook/dp/0965045013

Δεν ξέρω αν υπάρχει μετάφραση στα Ελληνικά.

Κράνος, μπουφάν, γάντια, παπούτσια (και παντελόνι αλλά πιο δύσκολο το κατακαλόκαιρο) ΜΗΧΑΝΗΣ, όχι ό,τι να 'ναι, ακόμα και το κατακαλόκαιρο. Κοστίζουν αλλά αξίζουν τα λεφτά τους και όχι μόνο για την ασφάλεια αλλά και την άνεση αν κάνεις αρκετά χιλιόμετρα.

Μάθε από παλιότερους. Όχι τον κάθε ξερόλα με το ασυντήρητο χρέπι δεκαετίας και βάλε, θα καταλάβεις. Αν δεν έχεις πρόχειρο τέτοιον σκέψουν την πιθανότητα να πας σε καμιά λέσχη μοτοσικλετιστών. Πολλοί βαρεμένοι εκεί αλλά και πολλοί έμπειροι που μπορεί να σε βοηθήσουν + μπορεί να βρεις καλύτερες τιμές και συμβουλές για εξοπλισμό, ανταλλακτικά κλπ.

Θα μπορούσα να γράψω πολλά περισσότερα αλλά ξεκίνα με αυτά και θα βρεις την άκρη.

Καλά χιλιόμετρα.

u/schwiz23 · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

They definitely are! I highly recommend you read Twist of The Wrist by Keith Code. There are some very good points on downshifting, and useful techniques that you can apply to street riding.

http://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-Motorcycle-Roadracers-Handbook/dp/0965045013

u/gonzo_au · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

I also punt a 954 Fireblade and a CB919 around. Rear brakes get a work out on these two.

I'm not trying to be a jerk, but do an advance skill course. Or at least read up on it.

u/StarWolve · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

Here's a list, off the top of my head - I know all these are on my bookshelf, but I'm probably missing a few more:

Hell's Angel: The Life and Times of Sonny Barger and the Hell's Angels Motorcycle Club by Sonny Barger

Freedom: Credos from the Road by Sonny Barger

Ridin' High, Livin' Free: Hell-Raising Motorcycle Stories by Ralph Sonny Barger

Dead in 5 Heartbeats by Sonny Barger

Under and Alone by William Queen

No Angel: My Harrowing Undercover Journey to the Inner Circle of the Hells Angels by Jay Dobyns

Hell's Angels: A Strange and Terrible Saga (Modern Library) by Hunter S. Thompson

Street Justice by Chuck Zito

The Original Wild Ones: Tales of the Boozefighters Motorcycle Club by Bill Hayes

Ghost Rider: Travels on the Healing Road by Neil Peart

The Masked Rider: Cycling in West Africa by Neil Peart

Against the Wind: A Rider's Account of the Incredible Iron Butt Rally by Ron Ayres

Shop Class as Soulcraft: An Inquiry into the Value of Work by Matthew B. Crawford

Honda CB750: The Complete Story by Mark Haycoc

Shovelhead Red The Drifter's Way by Roy Yelverton

Shovelhead Red-Ridin' Out by Roy Yelverton

A Twist of the Wrist 2: The Basics of High-Performan​ce Motorcycle Riding by Keith Code

Total Control: High Performance Street Riding Techniques by Lee Parks


Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry into Values by Robert M. Pirsig - Still my favorite. A high school english teacher bought it for me when he found out I had just passed my motorcycle road test. I've read it at least 15 times, and get something new from it each time.


But the best recommendation - Buy the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL for your bike and read it. Read it often, until you can almost turn to the exact page for each procedure.

u/Rocketsprocket · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

You may be leaning plenty already (for the street). The pegs on a sportbike are situated differently from those on a cruiser, and the amount of lean required to drag them may be more than what you need.

You might want to concentrate on skills specific to sportbike riding - yes, they are different from cruisers. (For example braking is different due to a different weight distribution between the front and back wheels.)

Keith Code's book is excellent.

u/ocelotpotpie · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

Check out Twist of the Wrist. There's a DVD and a book. Both are excellent. There are some great excerpts from it on youtube as well.

Book:
http://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-Basics-High-Performance-Motorcycle/dp/0965045021


Some bits from the DVD on youtube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HWH_QiXw5n4&feature=related

u/unoriginal_stuff · 2 pointsr/motorcycles
  • In short, there's nothing you can say or do now that will ease her mind.
    That all comes with time. Save up and pay for your own bike and gear, take the safely course. Try not the crash in your 1st year of riding. Show her you're responsible adult.

  • Don't ride in the rain, Take public transport. But sometimes it can't be helped. Just take it slow, wait for the rain to die-down if it get too heavy (what's heavy? you have to make a judgement on that)
    You can get riding gear that's water proof, but my experiences with them is that they don't work. Just carry a water proof backpack with a change of clothes in there, Kriega makes great stuff. The bike should be fine in the rain, but it's best to find a shaded area to park.

  • Just keep in mind that you're a beginning and know your limits. A twist of the wrist 2. Read it or Watch it.
u/oyitsagreen · 2 pointsr/cars

I've been making my way through this recently, I think it's exactly what you're looking for. Although my next step is to find one that goes more in depth!

Amazon has a ton of great car books.

u/22quack · 2 pointsr/Autos

Sorry for posting late, but definitely buy this http://www.amazon.com/How-Cars-Work-Tom-Newton/dp/0966862309/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1346804838&sr=8-1&keywords=how+cars+work

I read this while taking Auto Tech through high school and it helped a ton.

There is also this website, although it uses some larger words and is a bit harder to understand right off the bat. http://www.autozine.org/technical_school/tech_index.html

Try, to concentrate on one system at a time afterwords (brakes, suspension, electronics, etc.) since it makes it more focused.

Good luck :)

u/random_echo · 2 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

numbers come from this book, i'll scan you the page if you'r interested, maybe I did'nt got it right

http://www.amazon.fr/Motorcycle-Dynamics-Edition-Vittore-Cossalter/dp/1430308613

but we are not talking street application, the accident occured on a track, there is a lot more of grip, rear matters a lot less.

u/kin670 · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

You don't want the front wheel to lock up; this is why ABS is so popular. Also contact surface area does not affect traction. Weight and how the energy is transferred plays a more significant role in how a motorcycle stops.

Source

u/Haltech · 2 pointsr/beetle

How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive: A Manual of Step-by-Step Procedures for the Compleat Idiot https://www.amazon.com/dp/1566913101/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Q9JpDbBGQFYRQ

u/tenurestudent · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

There is a 'golden bible' of working on VW Bugs, I think CH 1 was how to cut the binding off and punch holes in it to put in a binder.
Edit:
ugh, typos. and found the book

u/nothinbuttherain · 2 pointsr/happy

I owned a '66 Beetle for about 3 months when I was 17. It didn't end well. (Not a wreck, it just needed a lot of small to medium work from the previous owner, and in the end I couldn't afford even the modest things that had to be done.)

I've wanted another one for my whole life since then, but it's never been the right time - so congratulations to you!

I very strongly recommend this book, it's both entertaining and informative.

u/wintyfresh · 2 pointsr/AnzaBorrego

SCORE Class 11 meets your frugal, don't care about speed requirements, and is relatively easy to work on.

That said, understand the safety equipment, gear, licensing and entry fees will add up quickly. Something like Wide Open Excursions could potentially work out better and cheaper.

u/gasfarmer · 2 pointsr/cars

You're not going to find one 'decently priced'. Just give up on that ideal right here and now.

VW Nerds like myself, and those who are packed to the rafters at VW Vortex, The Samba, TDI Club, etc, etc. are always on the hunt for aircooleds. You can pretty much rest assured that anything that approaches 'steal' territory will be snatched up within a few days, if not hours.

You're almost guaranteed to pay a ridiculous amount of money for a project, just due to the demand and the market price.

So if you're serious about buying one - set aside an appropriate amount that you're ready to spend at the drop of a hat, and search ads as often as possible. When something pops up, you'll be ready to go.

In my area a $300 Squareback was posted, and it was sold within 2 hours - just as an example.

That said - figure out which generation you want.

Do you want aircooled, or watercooled?

Do you want a T1? T2? T3? Westfalia? What about a Doka?




Aircooled engines are the easiest things you could ever rip apart. This book is the holy grail for aircooled VW's. Anything you could ever want or need to know lies within those pages - or on the Samba.

Watercooled VW engines are all covered by Bentley manuals - just seek one out, and you're golden.

Also, if you're interested, join us over on /r/Fahrvergnugen !



u/CalistaF · 2 pointsr/cars

use a slight dab of liquid gasket, I put it on my finger and just put a paper thin coat on both sides after cleaning the pushrod tube, block, and head with a cleaner that can remove oil/grease.

Best book ever if you dont have access to an old school vw mechanics locally for advise http://www.amazon.com/Keep-Volkswagen-Alive-Step-Step/dp/1566913101

u/shupack · 2 pointsr/EngineeringStudents

Yes. Best technical book I've ever read:

https://www.amazon.com/Keep-Volkswagen-Alive-Step-Step/dp/1566913101?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

and I've been working on nuclear reactors since 1996....

u/poderpode · 2 pointsr/classiccars

I had those! (Well, a 70s Honda.) Learned a lot about cars from them. The Hondas were leagues ahead of the VWs in terms of technology, handling, comfort, etc.

The How to Keep Your VW/Honda Alive books made it so easy to fix them: https://www.amazon.com/Keep-Volkswagen-Alive-Step-Step/dp/1566913101

u/CCA-Dave · 2 pointsr/beetle

If all of the black trim is original, that is very likely a 110 "very stripped" standard edition. Originally would have come with partial headliner, cardboard door cards and more. It does look as though the seats have been replaced with something else, but otherwise not bad.

New running boards will improve the visuals by quite a bit.

As you've never owned an aircooled beetle before, the first step should be reading the owners manual cover to cover. Pay particular attention to pages 16, 17, 20, and the tick marks on the speedometer seen on page 12. The tick marks go with page 17, and are one of the tricks to keeping the engine running more than a week. A PDF of your owners manual can be found here: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/74beetle/1974_Beetle_Owners_Manual.pdf

Two books you should buy are the Orange Bentley manual. This is the factory repair manual, and should be your first stop for any repair steps: https://www.amazon.com/Volkswagen-Beetle-Karmann-Official-Service/dp/0837616239/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1543597712&sr=8-1&keywords=Beetle+repair+bentley
You can find these used on thesamba.com, craigslist, used book stores or a VW show. But get one before you need it. I pay $15-20 for pristine used ones, $5-10 for ones that look used.

The second book a lot of people will recommend you is "How to Keep your VW Alive". It's a fun read, has a lot of good information in it, but should ONLY be considered a secondary source to the orange book. How to keep your beetle alive does have a fair bit of incorrect information in it. BUT if you're just starting out with cars, it is quite helpful. I do think new VW owners should read the book, but double check all his repair procedures against the orange book. The artwork inside is worth the $25 to buy a new one: https://www.amazon.com/Keep-Volkswagen-Alive-Step-Step/dp/1566913101/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1543597922&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=how+to+keep+your+volkswagen+alive&psc=1

If that right front headlight is filled with water, swap out both headlights for H4 lamps. They use a replaceable bulb, and are significantly better than what came with your car. A little bit of rewiring is required (I can help with that remotely), but otherwise they are drop-in. You can buy these from your Friendly Local AutoParts Store (FLAPS), a number of the VW online vendors or often Amazon. Heres the kit you want: http://www.myhellalights.com/index.php/products/auxiliary-lamps/sealed-beam-conversion-headlamps/vision-plus-7in-conversion-headlamp/ Order it at Autozone, Pep Boys, NAPA, etc by the part number. Often they have them in stock.

If you ever want to upgrade your car to chrome bumpers, trim, handles, etc. There are guys (like me) who will pay for your black stuff. It's generally undesirable except to the German Look guys.

u/grlfury · 2 pointsr/Westfalia
u/graniterockhead · 2 pointsr/beetle

You'll want to get the Bentley repair manual which will cover all the technical details of any repair and augment that with the Muir How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive book that will help explain things in casual speech. Those will be great teachers.

u/stupid_trollz · 2 pointsr/beetle

Can't recommend the idiot guide enough. Plain English and simple to follow instructions. https://www.amazon.com/Keep-Volkswagen-Alive-Step-Step/dp/1566913101

u/freetattoo · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

I cut my teeth on old air-cooled Volkswagens with the help of this book. After doing that for several years, and replacing the transmission in a '74 Bus by myself, rebuilding motorcycles didn't seem like too difficult a task.

With a decent set of tools, patience, a good manual and the experience of thousands at your disposal on internet forums, anybody who really wants to do it can rebuild an entire motorcycle from the ground up, even with no previous experience.

u/cryptovariable · 2 pointsr/DIY

Buy this book: http://www.amazon.com/Keep-Volkswagen-Alive-Step---Step/dp/1566913101/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1346863954&sr=8-1&keywords=complete+guide+to+volkswagon

The floor pan rusted out of mine 20 years ago. I sold it for more than I paid for it though.

Carry a spare alternator pulley and belt for when yours breaks. When, not if.

Make sure the back seat isn't saggy, and that there is a non-conductive barrier between the battery and the seat, so that passengers won't get their asses shocked/a fire won't start.

If you have the cash, upgrade the brakes. The brakes on my '73 (non-super) Beetle were horrible and faded severely. Kits cost 200-300 dollars online.

If you work on the engine yourself, the first time you disassemble it take it to a machinist and have them measure the interior dimensions. Over the years, due to wearing and performance upgrades, the cylinders of many Beetles have ended up being bored out so that they are larger than stock. If you assume that they are still the same size and go to replace some pistons (like I did) you're in for a very expensive and time-consuming lesson when the pistons are too small for the cylinders.

I would recommend an external oil cooler. Those are cheap and easy to install (if one hasn't been installed already) and they will increase the life of your engine.

Buy this book: http://www.amazon.com/Keep-Volkswagen-Alive-Step---Step/dp/1566913101/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1346863954&sr=8-1&keywords=complete+guide+to+volkswagon

In fact, I'm going to put that one at the top so you see it first.

Treat rust like a mortal enemy. Fix any rust spots now, replace rusted panels and body structures, and fix paint chips and scratches. You've got a convertible so you want to make sure the seals are good and water isn't getting into the doors or the panels around the doors. The bottom will rust right out and you won't know until you get in the car one day and the floorpan detaches from the side of the car along a 2-3 foot long rip.

That's all I can think of right now...

u/exairman14 · 2 pointsr/Volkswagen

How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive: A Manual of Step-by-Step Procedures for the Compleat Idiot https://www.amazon.com/dp/1566913101/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_.7Zfvb1QXATZJ
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1566913101/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_.7Zfvb1QXATZJ

Buy this and you will have no questions. :)

u/cj7jeep · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

They have a book like that for classic volkswagens http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1566913101/ref=redir_mdp_mobile

u/wafflingcharlie · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

Sport Riding Techniques: How To Develop Real World Skills for Speed, Safety, and Confidence on the Street and Track https://www.amazon.com/dp/1893618072/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ZwW0AbMMYHP0P

And

Proficient Motorcycling: The Ultimate Guide to Riding Well https://www.amazon.com/dp/1620081199/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ryW0AbSGD7P6H

And the others by Hough - his books are good on the strategies and decision making of real world full-time riding.

u/utc-5 · 2 pointsr/berlin

Proficient Motorcycling is an excellent book. I've taken multiple advanced rider courses and this book covers the everything that was in them (mid-corner braking with each brake, for example, and the results of each)...

u/porkrind · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

You have to ride as if the other drivers mean to kill you. The examples I listed are not just my bad luck or some super crazy situations I encountered. They’re unfortunately very common. For a lot of reasons, motorcycles are just invisible to drivers.

If I remember the stats right, the most common kind of motorcycle accident is a single vehicle accident. The rider runs out of skill, isn’t paying attention or is drunk and runs the bike off the road and hits something.

Of the rest of the accident types, it’s the left turner that's going to get you.

> The single most dangerous situation for motorcyclists occurs when cars are making left-hand turns. These collisions account for 42% of all accidents involving a motorcycle and car.

And remember this...

> Motorcycle accidents, though not necessarily more frequent than other types of accidents, are more likely to result in serious injury or death. According to the federal government, per mile traveled in 2006, there were 35 times more deaths from motorcycle accidents than from car accidents.

My number one reccomendation to all new riders is to buy and read David Hough's Proficient Motorcycling series. We are way too fragile to ride bikes poorly. I’ve lost friends to motorcycle accidents. Other friends don't walk quite right or have freaky scars. Riding is the most enjoyable thing I do and I won’t give it up until I just can’t do it any more, but I take it deadly seriously and stack the deck in my favor with every tool possible.

https://www.amazon.com/Proficient-Motorcycling-Ultimate-Guide-Riding/dp/1620081199/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_14_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=FYD1RE4VR7CQ06PP8DA9

u/offermychester · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1620081199?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Is a good book, you might know must of it but I guarantee there's some stuff you haven't thought of, good luck out there. I'm pretty new too

u/jpesh1 · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

I picked up my bike for $2200 with a clean title but definitely had been laid down. Then I put about $200 and a few weekends of time into it to make it road legal and safe to drive. I had my parents buy me a nice helmet and MSF class for my birthday as they didn't want me to skimp on the most important safety items, if you're young I'd highly suggest this route. I put about $200 more into a jacket and then I pay $350 annually for insurance, split with my dad on the policy to reduce costs since I'm a 23 y.o. male. All in all I put in about $3000 and I think I'm pretty well set.

I'd also highly suggest buying this book. I thought it was very informative on the risks of riding and helped me approach motorcycling with a more mature attitude than I would have otherwise. I read it before I'd even set foot on a bike and then also read it again after I had started to learn the basics.

All in all good luck! And know that once you start, you won't be able to stop... I'm still hoping it gets to over 50 degrees here in Ohio this year...

u/wabiker · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

According to this page, "Friction Zone" in Oct. 2005 reported that "The only state that prohibits the wearing of earplugs is California" (and even then not fully).

David Hough recommends wearing ear protection. So did my MSF instructor. I don't think it's an unusual position.

I regularly wear ear protection (not when riding -- I'm a musician), and I cannot imagine ear protection so strong it would be a safety issue.

One of the commenters at my first link raises a very good point: if your department of licensing will license a deaf driver, there's no reason earplugs should be a problem. According to this, the deaf are allowed to get full driver's licenses in (among other countries) the U.S., Britain, Germany, France, and Australia. So even if you had some magical earplugs that made you 100% deaf, there still sholudn't be any problem.

u/DodgersOneLove · 2 pointsr/IdiotsInCars
u/onecartel · 2 pointsr/motorcycles
u/jnish · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

I started riding at 16. My family all took the MSF class together and all passed. I rode a Honda Shadow all senior year and it was great. I regard myself as a pretty careful guy but still did some foolish things back then (gear, what gear?), including nearly dropping girl off the back because I gunned it so hard and she didn't have a good grip. Not a good way to impress the ladies. Lesson learned: don't try to show off, they'll be impressed by just going faster than their bicycles. If you haven't already, take the MSF class. They offer some advanced ones as it appears you're already riding. I took beginner at 16, then when I started riding again last year (11 years later after a 9 year hiatus while at college) took the advanced which teaches more about advanced handling and evasive maneuvers.

Forget all the haters hating on the 17 year old. I get it (both ways). It's easy and fun to be cocky, just don't let it lead to anyone getting hurt.

FYI: In all that time in high school, and knock on wood still to this day, I've never dropped my bike or gotten into any sort of accident. Sure hell of a lot of close calls, enough to remind me to keep my eyes up and about. There's an interesting statistic in Proficient Motorcycling along the lines that most motorcycle accidents occur during the second year of riding: enough time that riders get confident and start relaxing to the point they they become overconfident and get into trouble. I guess if you make it through that then you've had enough close calls to know how to get yourself out of a tight spot and, more importantly, avoid them from happening.

u/YouWillHaveThat · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

I bought this book for $1 on ebay:

https://www.amazon.com/Proficient-Motorcycling-Ultimate-Guide-Riding/dp/1889540536

It is worth $100.

Buy it, read it, and do the drills.

Edit:

Also: Wake up early!

5:30 - 7:30 on a Saturday/Sunday is the BEST time to ride. Less traffic and less cops.

Just watch out for drunks.

u/dirtyoldduck · 2 pointsr/motorcycles
u/InconvenientCheese · 2 pointsr/nova

I will say apex also has better beginner bikes then the Harley class in Fairfax. the apex, and while the Harley class is longer they both cover the same info , I'd recommend also getting and reading a copy of Proficient Motorcycling by David L. Hough

u/sew_butthurt · 2 pointsr/SuggestAMotorcycle

Howdy, and welcome to the wonderful world of motorcycling. Good luck on your quest.

First off, does that $2,500 include riding gear or is that just for the bike? Assuming the former, you could spend $500 on a helmet, jacket, and gloves with $2k left over for the bike purchase. For riding gear, I recommend checking out motorcyclegear.com, especially their closeouts. They also have deals called 'almost free' where you receive a gift card for nearly the full price of the garment. You can sign up for their sale emails, check it out.

The bike you posted looks good, but given the age it would be helpful to take a knowledgeable friend along before buying. There is a lot to inspect to prevent unforeseen costs. As /u/DantesDame mentioned, rubber bits get old, brittle, and dry rotted. Think leaky carb boots, fork seals, brake hoses, things like that. Also you should check the valve clearances and ignition timing; personally I find these things fun but I did grow up wrenching on things.

A CB350 would be good, really anything from Honda's CB lineup would be fine, though the 750s and up get pretty heavy for a beginner. If there are many dirt roads near you, maybe consider a dual-sport such as a Honda XR or CRF230L (-R is offroad only, -L is street legal), Yamaha TTR, Suzuki DR-Z. They tend to be light and easy to handle, they're single-cylinders and generally pretty easy to work on.

Back to maintenance--whichever bike you get, get yourself a copy of the service manual. This is a how-to book with detailed instructions for all types of maintenance, including how to take the bike apart down to the last nut and bolt and still put it back together again. If you have that and a friend who knows how to change their own oil, you're off to a good start.

Of course take the class, but if you can meet seasoned riders to talk to or ride with, even better. Just be sure to take your advice from safe, responsible folk. If you can't find people like that, check your local library for this book. If they don't have it, you might be able to get it on inter-library loan:

http://www.amazon.com/Proficient-Motorcycling-Ultimate-Guide-Riding/dp/1889540536

u/Depafro · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

I got my license when I was 16, I've been 21 for a short while now.

I did not take a class, though I rode a 50cc scooter for a while, which was an easy start. I had ridden dirt bikes a few times before that.

My first time riding, I showed up at the house where the bike I was buying was, jumped on, and rode it home. Learned through trial-and-error. I did a fair amount of practicing in parking lots, exercises from this book, and I also read this book, which is great.

If you can afford a course, then take it. If not, be very pro-active about your riding education, practice lots and learn always.

u/OutofSpec · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

I recommend Proficient Motorcycling by David Hough as far as books go.

u/Asshole_Salad · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

Jeesus. I was in college when you were born. Anyway... It's hard to give general tips without sounding like a broken record, but here goes:

Get decent gear and wear it, people will tell you that you have to spend $1,000 on gear but that's BS, just keep an eye on closeouts, my favorite site is http://www.motorcyclegear.com/ a few hundred bucks will get you everything you need if you're not fussy about having the best, latest or flashiest stuff.

Take the MSF if you haven't already.

Get this book and read it, it's the best book there is for teaching rider safety on the street. http://www.amazon.com/Proficient-Motorcycling-Ultimate-Guide-Riding/dp/1889540536

Take short, easy rides at first, your riding brain is like a muscle that you have to work out to build up over time.

Get out there and have fun!

u/gconsier · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

Sport Riding Techniques is my favorite. Sorry for mobile link on phone. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1893618072/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/178-4191191-4910622

u/bmcnult19 · 2 pointsr/240sx

I've used one on a custom car we made in high school. It was (relatively) easy to fiddle with if you know what you're doing. If you want anything custom(sequential injection or coil on plug ignition), you're going to have to know how to solder. It's pretty good for turbo applications (IMO) because they have a pretty good boost control solenoid for relatively cheep that's easy to install and a built-in MAP sensor. A megasquirt is what I'm going to get when I do my KA-T build. They're also pretty expandable if you want to change anything later.

If you do decide to go the megasquirt route, I would suggest reading a book like this or this so you really know what in the hell you're doing when it comes time to "mess with the tables". It was pretty challenging on that custom car.

Also, Porsche is awesome.

u/SavageTaco · 2 pointsr/mitsubishi

I originally tried the same thing (googling everything) but trying to find all the information I was looking for in one place was next to impossible. Plus you have so many contradicting views on how to go about tuning...etc.

Engine Management: Advanced Tuning by Greg banish. Its a little older (written in 2007) but still covers all the basics you will need.

http://www.amazon.com/Engine-Management-Advanced-Greg-Banish/dp/1932494421/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1416614952&sr=1-1&keywords=engine+management+advanced+tuning

Automotive engine management systems by Jeff Heartman. This book came out in 2013 (i believe) and deals a lot with volumetric efficiency (VE) based engine management systems (like the AEM infinity). This book was the first one I read and it really gives you a good understanding of things. Its much longer then the book above, but seeing as how it goes into greater depth and more aspects of tuning its worth the read.

http://www.amazon.com/Modify-Automotive-Engine-Management-Systems/dp/0760343454/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1416615138&sr=1-1&keywords=automotive+engine+management+systems

Other honourable mentions:

Maximum boost by Corky bell (the book is a bit older, but its really well written and interesting)

"How to build" Max-Performance Mitsubishi 4G63 engines, by Robert Bowen (and Robert Garcia of Road Race Engineering RRE)

Engine Airflow by Harold Bettes

u/SargentSchultz · 2 pointsr/Jeep

It's not a long trail 3.4 miles but it is a lot of fun as you drive on the rocks and there is one optional part you can play around on that goes almost straight down that the Jeep tours scare people on. Easily the best 4x4 trail in AZ and a top 10 in the USA. https://www.alltrails.com/trail/us/arizona/broken-arrow-4x4-trail

Now that you have a 4x4 in AZ go get this book and it has broken arrow in it. https://smile.amazon.com/Guide-Arizona-Backroads-4-Wheel-Drive-Trails/dp/1934838195/ref=tmm_other_meta_binding_swatch_0?_encoding=UTF8&qid=1523235879&sr=8-5

If you have a GPS the traxs are nice to have to but not required.

u/ronin0012 · 2 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

Northern AZ XJ guy here. Not sure about local places around PHX, but a good place to start is this book and be ready to travel a little. There are a number of great trails and off road areas throughout the state. The southern areas require a good cooling system, and the when it snows up north, a good heater! A really interesting place to live; I hope you like it!

Guide to Arizona Backroads

u/reboticon · 2 pointsr/cars

You want this book. Be aware that the concepts are math heavy.

This book may also be helpful, I've never read that one so I can't say.

The guy who wrote the first book - Greg Banish - was a tuner for several manufacturers and taught a tuning class/seminar for a while.

u/Dot584 · 2 pointsr/FSAE

I highly recommend this book. Engine Management: Advanced Tuning https://www.amazon.com/dp/1932494421/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Tms.AbSAJMG09
It starts from the basics and then gets fairly complex so I feel it covers anything a new tuner would need. It describes the science behind what is happening so I guarantee you will find things in here you will use in the design presentation. It includes graphs and examples. Take notes as you go. The book covers the main forms of tuning an engine. MAF, alpha-n, and speed density. Realize that even though some things are described with MAF or turbos in mind, you can apply it to the other forms. Be able to tell your judge why you chose your strategy and how you executed it. The book is laid out really well and the later chapters describe how to go about tuning after all the terms have been described. 10/10, 11/10 w/ ethanol.

u/tttruck · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

These two are pretty good, but I found "Total Control" kind of lacking, and the writing style of "Twist of the Wrist" to be annoying after a while.

My favorite so far has been Nick Ienatsch's "Sport Riding Techniques:..."

u/disgustipated · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

Sport Riding Techniques is another good book.

u/xpurplexamyx · 2 pointsr/MotoUK

It's definitely worth pursuing.

I can totally recommend investing in a copy of the Police Riders Handbook (not the new edition, it's terrible and a waste of money), and also the Police Drivers Handbook.

They are dry as hell to read, but it is definitely possible to teach yourself at least the basics of the system and begin to apply it, without ever needing to pay quantities of money to IAM or Rospa. Then, once you're back in the black so to speak, you'll have a baseline to work from and a decent knowledge of what is expected.

Bikesafe actually threw in a goodiebag for us that contained an IAM book that gives you a good foundation.

Beyond that, Nick Ienatsch's book is a great read too for sportier riding.

u/yebbit · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

There is a Twist of the Wrist Volume 2...also Sport Riding Techniqes is probably my favorite.

u/saguarro_you_today · 1 pointr/Tucson

This book has gps, maps, trail ratings, detailed descriptions, etc, for southern arizona off-roading: Arizona Trails Southern Region
This one is good, too:
Arizona backroads and 4-wheel drive trails

Both have helpful notes on difficulty/obstacles, as well as notes on whether or not there's a lot of brush to scratch up your paint...

And... Charoleau Gap is pretty exciting, but there's no trouble you can't back straight out of if you don't like it...

u/9087876 · 1 pointr/phoenix

join every group/ club you can. Forums, facebook, whatever. it'll take a while to find a group of guys that are into the same style/difficulty as you. wheel with all of them.


I don't recommend going out alone, but if you must this book has solid trails and will keep ya out of trouble

https://www.amazon.com/Guide-Arizona-Backroads-4-Wheel-Drive-Trails/dp/1934838195

u/Juano_Guano · 1 pointr/CherokeeXJ

I don’t live in Arizona, but my dad bought this guys book for California in the 80s. He has new ones and I use them for California. He has an Arizona book. I would strongly encourage it.

https://www.amazon.com/Guide-Arizona-Backroads-4-Wheel-Drive-Trails/dp/1934838195

u/gc04 · 1 pointr/Wrangler

As a general starting point I recommend this book: Guide to Arizona Backroads & 4-Wheel-Drive Trails 2nd Edition https://www.amazon.com/dp/1934838195/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1Ad2Cb53V8G9T

u/uncledahmer · 1 pointr/CalamariRaceTeam

Yeah. One of my instructors lent me this book:

Sport Riding Techniques: How To Develop Real World Skills for Speed, Safety, and Confidence on the Street and Track, by Nick Ienatsch. The book answered a lot of questions that I'd had, and taught me things I wouldn't have thought about.

So yes, MSF is a start, but there's a ton of more information to learn, and other places to learn it from.

u/TriumphRid3r · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

It's definitely because you haven't figured out how to handle it yet. I'm an instructor with Doc Wong Northwest. It's a free riding clinic & covers the finer details of sport riding. We teach the concepts covered by Keith Code's Twist of the Wrist 2. I personally help run the clinics in Albany, but they originally started in PDX. You should check them out. They meet the first Saturday of every month at BMW Motorcycles of Western Oregon in Tigard. Not only is it a great way to learn more advanced riding, but it's a good reason to get out and ride & a great way to meet other riders in the area.

I'd also like to recommend a few books to get you started:

u/AGGGman · 1 pointr/motorcycles

You can do that with the Ninja 250. It's all practice. Like V_Glaz_Dam mentioned you should watch the Twist of Wrist 2 series.

Here's something I wrote for one of my friends.

For books, I personally like this one the most. I feel like Nick took a lot information from the Twist of the Wrist books and made it more modern.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1893618072/ref=oh_o02_s01_i00_details



But I also learned a lot from Lee Park's book. Lee Park hosts a rider school where he runs over all the drills in his book and helps with rider technique. You have to google the class schedules but he comes around California at least once or twice a year.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0760314039/ref=oh_o04_s00_i00_details



The there is the Twist of the Wrist series
http://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-Motorcycle-Roadracers-Handbook/dp/0965045013/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1330372612&sr=8-1

http://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-Basics-High-Performance-Motorcycle/dp/0965045021/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1330372612&sr=8-2

I haven't read those books but the Twist of Wrist II videos are on youtube so you can check them out.



The last book I would recommend is Proficient Motorcycling. I highly recommended reading that one because it focuses a lot on general riding. Techniques that everyone should learn just to stay alive riding on the road. The book can be found at some libraries so you can save some money by just loaning it.
http://www.amazon.com/Proficient-Motorcycling-Ultimate-Guide-Riding/dp/1933958359/ref=sr_1_sc_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1330372534&sr=1-1-spell

The rest is all practice.
Also youtube "ninja 250 track" and you'll see a bunch of videos of guys racing their 250s on the track.

I wouldn't get on a track until you are at least familiar with your motorcycle. Get some miles under your belt before you decide to do it. After you are comfortable on your bike I would try to hook up with some local riders who are better than you. That way you can talk to them and learn from their experience. But remember to take most advice with a grain of salt. I personally use meetup.com to meet a lot of other guys to ride with.



u/WingedDefeat · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I found it.

u/Recover_Username · 1 pointr/MotoLA

I agree, David Hough's books are great. Also recommend Nick Ienatsch's Sport Riding Techniques and his article The Pace.

u/incendiary_bandit · 1 pointr/AussieRiders

I was recently loaned this book

https://www.amazon.com/Sport-Riding-Techniques-Develop-Confidence/dp/1893618072

The skills it gets you working on are amazing and it'll make him a safer rider.

u/Leonid1882 · 1 pointr/motorcycles
  1. Its spinning faster, making more power. in general, good riders keep the bike in power band: where it makes most power. on your bike, HP levels out around 8-10K, so shifting between 8-10K is good idea for spirited riding.
  2. Ideally, you should blip the throttle and downshift through every gear, though this might be problematic in the city.
  3. This is engine braking. you shild blip the throttle/rev match for smooth downshifitng.
  4. Its good idea to stop the way so you can take off rapidly - it just makes your riding safer.
  5. Thats because when you downshift without blipping the throttle the RPMs are growing rapidly, plus you are putting additional stress on transmission. no, you don't suck, you are just learning and sking right questions.
    I would suggest some reading though: https://www.amazon.com/Sport-Riding-Techniques-Develop-Confidence/dp/1893618072/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473751156&sr=8-1&keywords=sportbike+riding+techniques is an excellent read.
u/IveHadBlackFriends · 1 pointr/motorcycles

If you want a few tricks under your belt this is a good book

https://www.amazon.com/Sport-Riding-Techniques-Develop-Confidence/dp/1893618072

And it's always a good idea to find a big ass parking lot and practice your skills, do tight circles, emergency stops from cruising to highways speeds, and anything that you might identify that you can work on.

Stay safe out there, riding is the most fun I've ever had, cheers!

u/Camerown · 1 pointr/cars

Many referred me to this book.

I have very little experience, but I have learned that you need to find out what your known values are (airflow, fuel pressure, timing) and adjust the fuel maps. Knowing exactly what your Air to Fuel ratio is a must. Once you have a target A/F ratio in mind, use your known parameters and adjust your fuel accordingly.

What is the output of your logs?

u/slakwhere · 1 pointr/motorcycles

http://www.amazon.com/Sport-Riding-Techniques-Develop-Confidence/dp/1893618072

this book (and his school, Yamaha Champions Riding School) will get you sorted out

u/jtunzi · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I read these based on Amazon reviews and they were both very helpful in addition to Twist of the Wrist.

Total Control

Sport Riding Techniques

u/Harb67 · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Seems like every single person in this video (save for the near-wrecks due to asshat car drivers) really needs a lesson on corner exit. You don't necessarily get back on the throttle once you pass the apex, you get back on the throttle as you bring the bike back up. Ideally these two things coincide, but when you're a squid on the street and blow a corner it's not uncommon to stay cranked over well past the apex.

A copy of Twist of the Wrist 2 or Sport Riding Techniques would have probably avoided nearly every one of these incidents ಠ_ಠ

u/theultimatehero2 · 1 pointr/cars

I tend to think the same way you do. Don't know where to start, just wish I could have someone explain everything and let me ask questions. While I'm sure that exists in the sense that there might be some expert out there willing to sit down and teach it, but what you're asking for is a course and instruction. Again, I'm sure that exists and it will cost money, I don't know where to start with that.

Otherwise it is completely up to you. Start scouring the internet, look through build threads and tuning forums, and read books on the subject. I just finished this one and I think it is a pretty good place to start if you need the basics on turbos. After that I'm moving on to this one to learn more about tuning. Just like most things in life, there is no easy button. If you want to learn it you have to do it yourself.

u/boredcircuits · 1 pointr/bicycling

Excellent book on this subject: Bicycling Science by David Wilson. There's a formula in there for power vs. airspeed, if I remember right.

u/bicyclehubabaloo · 1 pointr/bicycling

I think if you look around, you'll see that every major bicycle maker has a large variety of bicycles available. Almost all of them offer at least a few options made of carbon, aluminum, and steel. Not all high-end, lightweight bikes are carbon. Weight very much matters in some applications. In others, it doesn't as much. In your application, it doesn't as much.

Tires: Wider tires allows you to run lower pressure. This can help in both comfort and traction with certain surfaces.

I'm about your size, carfree, and live in a City with horrible roads (mostly from all the snow plowing). I wouldn't dream of running below 35cm front and rear. My most often used bike is a rigid 29er that weighs in near 30lbs with front and rear racks.

I'm not familiar wit touring bikes set up as you describe. Most touring rigs run wider than 23/25.

If you're into the science of this endeavor, this book is pretty great.

https://www.amazon.com/Bicycling-Science-Press-Gordon-Wilson/dp/0262731541

u/kimbo305 · 1 pointr/bicycling

There's a book by that very name: https://www.amazon.com/Bicycling-Science-Press-Gordon-Wilson/dp/0262731541/ref=tmm_pap_swatch_0?_encoding=UTF8&qid=&sr=

I've only read a few chapters, but it covers a lot of pretty interesting topics.

u/its-the-new-style · 1 pointr/pics

I got the 10% from the calculations in Bicycling Science by
David Gordon Wilson

u/CSG_Mike · 1 pointr/ft86

https://www.amazon.com/Speed-Secrets-Professional-Driving-Techniques/dp/0760305188

Disclosure: I've never read any of these. Going just by what's popular.

u/Toymeister · 1 pointr/iRacing

This was the one I meant. Brilliant book.

u/MusaDoVerao2017 · 1 pointr/getdisciplined

You can mix some of your hobbies into one, fellow simracer. Your desire for car knowledge can lead you at being a better driver. Using myself as a example, I have read this book to understand more about race techniques and this one to have a better general understanding of racing. I read them while I was bored at home or in a bus going/coming from college and at home I practiced those techniques.

Not the solution for all of your problems (I cant see a way to mix 3D modelling with anything else), but I hope that it helps a bit.

u/torokunai · 1 pointr/Unity3D

back in the 90s I got paid to do the dynamics on a racing game.

so much fun.

hardest part was understanding impulse vs. force applied, keeping the time dimension straight.

plus figuring out the axis of rotation of wheeled vehicles, how exactly tires turn a car.

https://www.amazon.com/Race-Car-Vehicle-Dynamics-Experiments/dp/0768011272 is the bible of course but it didn't answer any of the hard problems I ran into, like how to transfer the (uneven) forces in the shocks into angular vs. vertical acceleration.

u/5bWPN5uPNi1DK17QudPf · 1 pointr/formula1

Do you have any good links for more information? I see what /u/Wozrop is saying from the theoretical model of friction standpoint but I see a ton of empirical evidence to backup what you're saying—and no doubt racers know this. I'm basically looking for technical explanations of why this is the case.

Edit: Incase anyone cares (or even reads this) I found an excerpt from Race Car Vehicle Dynamics:

>Tractive force F_T and braking force F_B are a function of slip ratio. As the slip ratio increases (numerically) from zero, the forces rise rapidly to a maximum which usually occurs in the range of 0.10 to 0.15 slip ratio, after which the forces fall off.

So, yeah, Milliken's 10-15% slip ratio finding corroborates /u/Kkubaa's statement. The chapter on Tire Behavior is pretty interesting; a lot more going on than simple problems from undergrad mechanical engineering.

u/NuclearDuck92 · 1 pointr/AskEngineers

Though not really applicable to the engine side, and likely too conceptual for the tire wear models, this one is really good from the dynamics side and translates many aerospace concepts over to vehicle dynamics (Stability derivatives, etc.):

Race Car Vehicle Dynamics, Milliken & Milliken

u/snaaaaaaaaaaaaake · 1 pointr/cars

Maximum Boost by Corky Bell is an excellent resource for understanding turbos. I loved it. http://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Boost-Turbocharger-Engineering-Performance/dp/0837601606

u/SenorObvious · 1 pointr/cars

[As far as I'm concerned this is the holy bible of turbo applications.] (https://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Boost-Turbocharger-Engineering-Performance/dp/0837601606)

u/jonnyrocket · 1 pointr/cars

Once you get through the basics and start looking into performance, I would suggest "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell. It is pretty much the gospel of turbocharging. Amazon link

u/jc0mm5 · 1 pointr/cars

Check this book out:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/0837601606/?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Excellent resource. You'll learn quite a bit. Volumetric Efficiency, sizing turbos, proper air/fuel ratios, etc.

u/Fohdeesha · 1 pointr/simracing

If you think you learned a lot from the video, buy Skips actual book, "Going Faster". It's the single book to own for any driver. The video everyone keeps posting is a massive summation of the writing and it skips a ton of amazing stuff. Not to mention full page illustrations of suspension geometry and setup techniques, setup theory, etc. I got a copy off of amazon for like $20 - http://www.amazon.com/Going-Faster-Mastering-Race-Driving/dp/0837602262

u/the_niel · 1 pointr/racing
u/ibarg · 1 pointr/Karting

I just picked up Going Faster! and it seems like a solid book.

u/AoF-Vagrant · 1 pointr/iRacing

> Get the best experience out of iRacing possible without wasting time

I would suggest possibly changing the mentality here (If I'm understanding you right). Instead, take your time & enjoy it instead of trying to rush to the top classes. Especially with road racing, the lower classes are the best place to learn tracks & driving competitively.

For learning how to be fast, I always recommend the book Going Faster. Everything else is just from experience & practice.

For the wheel stuff, you should be fine. Stick shifter would add immersion, but it's not mandatory.

u/AmbientSix · 1 pointr/cars

Good reading: http://www.amazon.com/Going-Faster-Mastering-Race-Driving/dp/0837602262

My first was a lot of fun, but I took it very easy since I had OEM summer only tires and it was in the low 40's max in October... Keep an eye out for stupid or faster drivers and just let them pass in the passing zones. Not everyone on track actually belongs there...

Here is some advice, especially for an older car:
Brakes are the MOST important thing to check and there are plenty of incidents where people crash due to inadequate maintenance. fresh brake pads, inspect rotors for thickness, stress cracks if drilled. Inspect brake lines for nicks/age cracking, check brake fluid condition, reservoir leaks. Some places will turn you around right away if they see a wet reservoir. Flush and replace if it is bad or only DOT3. GOOD fresh oil and filter change, check wheel bearings for play (that will get you kicked out). Check tire condition, no dry rot. Clean and check alloy wheels for stress cracks. Remove all loose items you don't need at the track. Bring water, hat, long pants, long cotton shirt, helmet (SA2010+ probably), and of course a camera!

u/chriszuma · 1 pointr/Miata

I agree with everything he said. Another way to get the most out of your eventual driving class is to read this book first:

Going Faster! Mastering the Art of Race Driving https://www.amazon.com/dp/0837602262/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_nkVvub00B1PF5

u/shizmatango · 1 pointr/simracing

Going Faster is a widely recommended book for real life driving and racing. I say driving and racing because you need to focus on two different objectives. There is the ability to go around the circuit fast (Driving) and then there's Race Craft, which is the art of passing, defensive lines, etc. You need them both to be a winner, whether real or simulation. Enjoy.

u/Sephiroso · 1 pointr/funny
u/tiag0 · 1 pointr/AskReddit

Well, you already know about design, but you could specialize in industrial design, or take another course in ergonomics and such. I have no idea what the job market demands are for car-design, but in a creative place, fresh ideas from other perspectives are usually welcome, so maybe being an architect isn't such a bad position to be in.

Now, you can like cars from varying points of view, you may like to tinker with them, to look at them, or maybe just drive them. If you like the driving part, I'd recommend you go several track days, or try to go to a high performance driving school, just keep in mind they can be expensive. If not, try to save up for a place with serious go karts (try and find some that go to 60mph, but you'll find ones going up to 100 or 120 mph) and learn how to really drive. A good go-kart is cheap fun and acceleration/cornering wise is pretty much on par with a decent, winged, single seater, this means it will corner and brake harder than any supercar car and accelerate on par with most of them.

A couple of books that might help you on the subject of high performance driving would be Thisand this one.

Regarding car shows, the most entertaining one is called Top Gear. It's British and it's more a entertainment show that happens to have cars, but most of us gearheads enjoy it.

I don't know much but if you have any questions ask away :)

u/_St3fan_ · 1 pointr/simracing

Also this one is more specific than the Speed Secrets book IMO, which can be a good addition for your reading: http://www.amazon.com/Going-Faster-Mastering-Race-Driving/dp/0837602262/ref=pd_bxgy_14_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ZQHKTH18AJ2MMNPZ7EZ

u/paganmonkeyboy · 1 pointr/Karting

buy this book - http://www.amazon.com/Going-Faster-Mastering-Race-Driving/dp/0837602262/

it helped me a LOT. they break it down so well and explain everything you want to work on imho...

u/goretooth · 1 pointr/formula1

Have you read this beauty?

Haynes RB6 Red Bull manual

Its a pretty technical in depth look into practically every part of a formula 1 car

u/FesteringNeonDistrac · 1 pointr/formula1

Good book and the one I came in here to recommend.

Red Bull put out a shop manual for the RB6(?) A few years back. It's got a lot of really interesting stuff in it.

https://www.amazon.com/Red-Bull-Racing-Car-Championship-Winning/dp/0857330993

u/schrollbach · 1 pointr/cars

>And weight on that tire would just be taking away from your other tires.

Except that's a good thing...

For tires to generate lateral force, they need a normal load on them (i.e. weight) and they need to slip (hence slip angle).

So by that logic, you just want to pile on more weight and you get more lateral force. This is true, but the problem is that pneumatic tires have a sensitivity to that weight. This means that for more and more load you pile on them, the less lateral force you get back. It's why race cars want to always be as low as possible, you transfer less weight.

Essentially, because the weight got transferred off the tire, it lost more lateral force capability than the outside tire gained.

If you don't believe me, read either:

The Racing & High Performance Tire by Haney

or

Tune to Win by Carroll Smith

or

Fundamentals of Vehicle Dynamics by Gillespie

or

RCVD by Milliken and Milliken

or you can choose to ignore a random person on the internet that says he has several years of engineering experience for several racing series.

u/sim-racingcouk · 1 pointr/simracing

Tune To Win would be my recommendation by Carroll Smith, old but very informative.

I started to read "The Perfect Corner" and whilst there is nothing wrong with it, it's not my go to book, but that is just my personal opinion which doesn't mean it's right for everyone.

u/abuseguy · 1 pointr/bicycling

Well, you have some decisions to make. The constants will be the dimensions of the hub and the inner diameter of the rim. The variables will be the lacing pattern -- how many times the the spokes cross each other on the way from the hub to the rim -- and the gauge / type of spoke.

Since you're building a 36 spoke wheel, I assume that you're building this for heavy duty road riding or touring, where most riders will select a 3X pattern. (For example, radial laced spokes don't cross each other at all -- like a wagon wheel -- resulting in shorter, lighter spokes. A 3X wheel requires longer spokes but allows softer riding characteristics.)

I couldn't get the drop-down menu's to work on the Wheelbuilder link, but another calculator can be found here. But unless you can find a reliable database of measurements, you will need to learn how to make the proper measurements yourself.

One book you might want to read can be found here. It's a start but not gospel.

One option: Go to an intelligent LBS and have them make the measurements and order the spokes for you. You can save the labor and build them yourself.

Good luck!



u/benjib0t · 1 pointr/bicycling

Nope, I do this. Wish I was him though. If you're similarly physics and cycling inclined, you should check this book out. It's a really great treatment of the physics on bike wheels.

u/imsowitty · 1 pointr/Velo

Jobst Brandt is on my side. Last I checked, he's a wheelbuilder around the world somewhere.

Radially laced wheels are stiffer both laterally (side to side) and radially (weight straight down at the axle) than crossed lacing patterns. The shock absorption is nice for mtb wheels, but not on the road. Look at every high end weight-conscious (Road) front wheel out there, Enve, Zipp, HED. All use radial lacing. If 3x were stronger, then they would be 3x, with fewer spokes to reduce weight further.

u/robotneedsbeer · 1 pointr/ottawa

Man, I miss Captain Bike (Sheldon Brown) and rec.bicycles.tech.

In a similar vein, Jobst Brandt on why bikes don't hydroplane. Brandt is the engineer behind the book, The Bicycle Wheel ---and one of the sources for Sheldon's comment.

u/viva101 · 1 pointr/bicycling

This is generally considered a good place to start: http://www.amazon.com/Bicycle-Wheel-Jobst-Brandt/dp/0960723668

u/niels_olson · 1 pointr/reddit.com

This is somewhat related to the article Experimental bike with reverse-spinning wheel shows that gyroscopic forces are not important for the stability of a bicycle: So what is?. Jobst Brandt is a legend in cycling: he wrote The Bicycle Wheel, which includes finite element analysis data on various standard wheels.

u/wygibmer · 1 pointr/bikewrench

Great info, thanks so much. I will be getting this book in the mail tomorrow, and I intend to read through it before I go to town. Much appreciated.

u/vinpaysdoc · 1 pointr/wheelbuild
u/mbcharbonneau · 1 pointr/bikewrench
u/MrJadaml · 1 pointr/Denver

Reminds me of a book about only having so much attention to give when riding a motorcycle. I feel that it also applies to driving: http://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-Motorcycle-Roadracers-Handbook/dp/0965045013

u/TianWoXue · 1 pointr/MGTOW

Twist of the Wrist
http://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-Motorcycle-Roadracers-Handbook/dp/0965045013


full of stuff that seems counter-intuitive, but is consistent with the laws of Physics. Easy read, easy to practice, can save your life.

IF you are mechanically inclined, check out getting a Honda CB (or similar 70s Jap bike) and wrench/rebuild it your self.

u/vijjer · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Keith Code - Twist of The Wrist I/II (Vol 1 / Vol 2)

Also, once you're get to the apex, start rolling the throttle on smoothly. This will help balance your lean angle and the feeling of 'falling inwards'.

u/tomatopaste · 1 pointr/motorcycles

> The techniques I have learned and shared were taught to me in the MSF Beginner course. I think your advanced techniques and concepts might certainly be confusing and "over the head" to many beginners .. such as the OP.

I encourage others to think, and -- as I keep stating -- I fight misinformation. If you have a problem with one or the other, I really don't give a shit.

The MSF course teaches you the fundamental mechanics of riding and very little more. In retrospect, I'm horrified that they put people on the street with so little training. If you want to swaddle people in a nest of MSF generalities, go ahead. I may well be there, too, to point them in the right direction.

> Oh, and disagreeing with others does not have to equal calling them idiots.

I call it like I see it. Not an idiot? Demonstrate it by reading and writing carefully. Your post was poorly constructed, contained tangential information, and was simply wrong. Further, you were defending someone who has been going around spreading some dangerous misinformation.

Seek out information and learn.

Total Control

Proficient Motorcycling

More Proficient Motorcyclig

Twist of the Wrist

Twist of the Wrist Vol 2

u/Emmmmmmmmm · 1 pointr/motorcycles
u/Desmocratic · 1 pointr/motorcycle

Well looks like you got alot of good advice and help here, I'll just add some further reading you can do from the comfort of the couch:
Kieth Code: Twist of the wrist
Although it looks like a racing handbook its also a motorcycle skills book. Enjoy!

u/Gertm · 1 pointr/motorcycles

The book is too cheap to not buy. Well worth the money.

But keep in mind: your tires need to be warm for this stuff to work properly.

u/TrexinF-14 · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Keith Code's training movie based on this book is available as a 7 part series.

Highly recommended whether you're the kind who takes your bike to the track or to the canyons. I would recommend that you purchase the DVD, it is a worth while investment.

u/silverfox762 · 1 pointr/Harley

Oh yeah, do the author a favor and buy the book to go with the video. He runs a track school, and really knows his shit. It's cheap. Don't let the "high-performance riding" label fool you. He means that literally- to perform at a high level.

http://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-Vol-High-Performance-Motorcycle/dp/0965045021/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409609765&sr=8-1&keywords=twist+of+the+wrist+2

u/drwatson · 1 pointr/AskReddit

Take a class and read this book. Geared towards racing but still very insightful for any rider.

u/im_mrmanager · 1 pointr/motorcycles

In addition to the MSF and additional training, this should be required reading https://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-Vol-High-Performance-Motorcycle/dp/0965045021

u/bbasara007 · 1 pointr/motorcycles

My friend that got me into riding races an R6 with more low end torque than an R1 (only tops out at 120 because of that though :/ ). Another is a bmw s1000rr. I myself ride a old 90 FZR600 supersport and a honda shadow.

It doesn't matter what type of bike it is, steering physics work the same. Cruisers just steer slow and with less lean. It doesn't mean your input on the turn should be any different.

This is also backed up by some well known pro's. Example:

Twist of the Wrist: Keith code

http://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-Basics-High-Performance-Motorcycle/dp/0965045021/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1344012435&sr=8-2&keywords=twist+of+the+wrist

Total Control: Lee Parks

http://www.amazon.com/Total-Control-Performance-Street-Techniques/dp/0760314039/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1344012569&sr=1-3&keywords=total+control

Lee Parks spend a good amount of the book explaining the techniques for both sportbike and cruisers, which end up being the same thing.

u/nagilfarswake · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I'm going to recommend something a little unconventional around here: an actual paper book.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/0760313318/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_6wgwybXHCREVS

I bought this sort of on a whim when I started riding and was in the same position as you, and it was unbelievably informative and interesting to read. Its slightly out of date in that it precedes the advent of common electronic aides, but 100% of the stuff in the book is useful.

Also, while I'm recommending books for new riders, Lee Park's "Total Control" (https://www.amazon.com/dp/0760343446/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_Mxgwyb3MVM3CF) is an absolutely brilliant book. Its specifically about street riding (as opposed to track) and is targed towards newish riders. This book basically singlehandedly changed me from a hesitating novice to a confident (though a little reckless, it taught me to ride well but doesn't teach thoughtfulness the way Keith Code does) rider.

And, of course, the great grand daddy of them all, Twist of the Wrist 2 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/0965045021/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_aygwyb1BB573F). This book is so good and so dense that I still find new things to practice every page or two. The definitive riding technique book for good reason. No, you don't need to read part 1.

u/Albert0_Kn0x · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Just go to Amazon right now and order this and this right now. Do it. Will save your life and make riding fun.


u/CarlOrff · 1 pointr/backpacking

Perhaps not exactly the cup of tea you're looking for but it's about travelling and certainly worth the read:

http://www.amazon.com/Jupiters-Travels-Years-Around-Triumph/dp/0965478521

u/windblast · 1 pointr/motorcycles

In Vancouver there's an awesome community bike shop called Moto Method where you can do your own wrenching. Tire swaps are always easier to let somebody else handle. The further south you are the easier it is to find nice Mexican mechanics/muffler shops that you can haggle with to let you use tools you don't have packed and/or weld something up for you.

I prefer to do this kind of travelling solo. Forgive me if I'm getting a little philosophical, but I think Ted Simon explains the benefits of solo travel best in his book Jupiter's Travels: he speaks of how the only way to truly let the world change and affect you is when you travel alone, because if you travel with a partner you tend to see yourself as a reflection of how they see you and their perception of you is resistant to change. Why else do we travel but to let the world sweep us up and affect and change and become a part of us in some meaningful way?

u/s1am · 1 pointr/AskReddit

Go classy. See the world on a motorbike. Camp along the way. Carry more than on a bicycle but be highly approachable, fuel efficient and relatively low impact. Here are some good examples of folks who have (I'm sure there are many others as well):

u/culraid · 1 pointr/Harley

Getting away from 1%er type books - this is a pretty well known book in Europe but maybe not so much in the US, I don't know to be honest.

In 1973 Ted Simon set off on a 63,000 mile round the world trip on a 500cc Triumph Tiger 100. He did it again at the age of 70(!) in 2001 as it happens, but this book's about the first '73 trip which took him 4 years. Well worth a read if you haven't come across it. The US Amazon site has jumped the distance up to 78k miles, I have no idea why. He wrote a follow up, Jupiter's Travels.

Guy's a rider, that's for sure.

Ted Simon - Jupiter's Travels

The bike

His website

u/porschegt3 · 1 pointr/cars

A fantastic book I highly recommend is How Cars Work. It covers everything from pushrod and dohc engines to the AC system. It's written in a non technical way and really a quick read.

u/tchetelat · 1 pointr/IWantToLearn

A guy who I race sailboats with wrote this book:

How Cars Work

u/scumboi · 1 pointr/askgaybros

In addition to his excellent list, familiarize yourself with where everything is on that particular model. Where is the spare tire? Is it a full sized spare? Where is the battery and the jumper posts? (they are sometimes at a different place than the battery itself) Where do you put the jack when changing tires in all 4 locations? How do you change a tire safely? Where do you add oil and change the oil? You can find all of this by getting a copy of the owners manual for that car (online?) and reading it backwards and forwards. I recommend that you actually change the tire once when you get the car.

And instead of getting frustrated by all the info on the Internet about cars, buy a basic book instead...more focused and better organized info. I recommend this one :

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/0966862309

Good luck.

u/Wolfritz · 1 pointr/IWantToLearn

[This book] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/reviews/0966862309?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0) has good reviews on Amazon, although I haven't personally read it.

u/xilanthro · 1 pointr/bikebuilders

Bikebuilds is a new site that catalogs custom bike builds. There are some similar builds indexed there.

As for reference, my experience was a little different because I was altering bikes for my own use in racing, so it's all really focused on handling, but still, you might find it useful: go-to books have been Bradley and Tony Foale.

That said, if you're really into understanding the implications of swing-arm lengths and rake angles, I have heard high praise for Cossalter's Motorcycle Dynamics, though I have not read it myself.

u/cajunboy_ · 1 pointr/MechanicalEngineering

Check out Motorcycle Dynamics by Vittore Cossalter..

Basically the RCVD of the motorcycle world. worth the cash if you're serious about it. ($45). i bought it about 5 years ago though and I don't remember it being that much back then but, who knows...

https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Dynamics-Second-Vittore-Cossalter/dp/1430308613

Also, John Bradley - The Racing Motorcycle: A Technical Guide for Constructors, Volume 1 (v. 1)

haven't read this one personally but it's always been highly recommended.

u/703Sumo · 1 pointr/MTB

> The BB height that varies by like 30 mm is going to be negated by you squatting down and bringing the CG lower. -you are completely wrong here. In my experience 5 mm of drop is very noticeable. 30 mm is massive. I lowered my bb last summer by swapping the linkage on my enduro, it dropped ~ 12 mm. Afterwards, I had to increase my tire pressure ~ 4 PSI, because I was rolling the tire off the rim on the same trail I'd been riding for 2 years from cornering that much harder. A lower BB allows you to corner harder all other things being equal - full stop. Even a small difference is VERY noticeable to an experienced rider.

Hah. Thats actually not to the bb being lower, its due to the fact that by dropping the rear, you have slackened your head angle and increased the geometric trail, which will make your bike feel much more planted in corners. Same reason why you get on a DH rig with a 63 head angle over your 66-68 trail bike, and it feels weird in the parking lot, but once you start going downhill you feel like you can just put it in corners and it stays there.

>Likewise, moving your weight back lets you corner much more aggressively because it creates stability in the front. -wrong again. If this were the case, Pro Riders would be way off the back of the bike in every corner - they aren't. Also, if you don't weight the front wheel you risk having it slide out. I'll concede that skilled riders will shift their weight front to back depending on the turn, but always shifting back is not the magic skill.

That is because the DH bikes that rail through corners already have a rearward weight bias.

And the point is that you can simply move your body weight back and forth to achieve cornering characteristics.

>Your example of riding with no hands is off - you don't understand the effect. But my first year physics knowledge fails me here - can some other internerd assist?

I 100% understand this effect, as my expertise and hobby is in suspension and chassi tuning for motorcycles.

The front fork/wheel assembly is at an angle known as the head angle. Because of this, when the handlebars are straight, the wheel is actually at the higher CG then it would be if you turned the bars. You can see this effect by yourself - take the bike, hold it upright on pavement, and lean it slightly one way or the other, and you will see the handlebars turn that direction as the front wheel "falls" in CG height to a lower position.

Likewise, if you lift the rear of the bike slightly and repeat the experiment, you will find that the handlebars don't turn as much, because the steeper head angle lessens this effect.

However, the head angle also puts the contact patch of the tire behind the steering axis, creating the trail effect. This makes the front tire act as a weathervane, and the effect increases at speed - rolling fast and turning a tire creates a higher slip angle, which creates a bigger force on the tire, which creates a higher force to straighten the bars.

The reason you can ride without hands is because of the interaction of those 2 events. When you lean your body, you lean the bike, and the handlebars want to turn in that direction, but the trail prevents that. And the slacker the head angle, the faster you have to go because the slacker head angle will make the bike fall over more, so you have to increase speed to make the trail effect cancel this.

And as you can probably imagine, putting more weight over the front tire effectively makes it "heavier", and thus increases the effect, since you are basically generating a handlebar yawing torque with the weight at the CG of the tire, which is affected by how much weight you put over it.

When you corner, the front end pretty much determines how the bike will corner. If you have the right amount of head angle and consequently trail, as you lean the bike, it settles into a steady state that feels planted, and you can rail through corners. If your head angle is steep and you have smaller trail value, the bike feels nervous, and you have to hold it in a high speed corner as opposed to the bike naturally settling there because of the reduced effect. And if you don't hold the bars in the right place, you start to either oversteer or understeer or even loose the front because you are exceeding the slip angle if you try to corner to hard.

>And moving the weight back also lets you brake harder with the front brake. -You move back as you brake to counter the force and not get sent over the bars. You are still weighting the front wheel pretty heavily when this happens.

Right, its the same thing as I am describing. If you are way forward, the front brake can generate enough torque to lift the rear end of the bike and send you over the bars, so you are limited by how much you can brake. If you weigh down the rear end of the bike, the torque required to flip you is much more, so you can apply much more front brake.

>I'm gonna skip your suspension stuff - I don't get your point.

The point is that if you wanna make judgement about linkages, you have to take the shock out of the equation. I agree that there are some cheap FS bikes with linkages that are worse than All mountain or Enduro bikes, but for all the better designed linkages, the goodness of the suspension is mostly due to the shock.

For example, take a Trance 3 from 2016, and the shock only has rebound adjustment. Someone riding it may say, "oh the rear dives to much under pedal power or it feels too stiff", all because the compression damping is internally set, and you can crank up the pressure or the rebound to make it pedal more efficiently but loose any suspension action.

But take that shock, swap with a Monarch RT3 Debonair, and suddenly you have the option of putting the bike in full lockout which makes it stiff but very pedal efficient, or full open which makes it super plush for fast descents over rough stuff. Likewise, you can add or remove spacers and modify the pressure and the bike can change from a trail machine that absorbs all bumps and lets you pedal uphil over roots without loosing traction, or it becomes a bike that can take drops and feels super planted when cornering.

>But design and construction are pretty darn important!

They are, and different frames weigh differently and some are stiffer which are noticeable. But none of this is enough to give a bike a rating in terms of being good or bad performer.

FYI, this is a book that will explain all dynamics in detail. Its very math intensive though, but there are plots that show all the effects I talk about.
https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Dynamics-Second-Vittore-Cossalter/dp/1430308613

u/BendersCasino · 1 pointr/MechanicalEngineering

I ordered this book and it showed up yesterday - haven't gotten through much of it but it looks like it has most of the dynamic formulas you could ever need for a motorcycle.

u/DetEndeloseSvart · 1 pointr/DIY

"Super-unreliable car"
"Volkswagen Beetle"

Does. Not. Compute. They have like three parts! Thwack the carburetor (it ain't like you have two to keep in sync), replace the belt a few times, and give 'er a go!

(And get this just in case. Thwack the carburetor with it!)

u/fifty_five · 1 pointr/beetle

this is the air cooled vw bible.

u/themidnitesnack · 1 pointr/happy

How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive: A Manual of Step-by-Step Procedures for the Compleat Idiot https://www.amazon.com/dp/1566913101/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_npzeAbXZM1D1J

The book linked above got my Dad through numerous problems and issues with his 79 (?) beetle when I was growing up. He says it’s a must have!

u/kingpinjoel · 1 pointr/AskReddit

buy the Idiot book for [ Volkswagens ] (http://www.amazon.com/Keep-Volkswagen-Alive-Step-Step/dp/1566913101)

Read it from cover to cover. Sure, its about older air cooled VW's but its written in plain english so that anyone can understand and the concepts of the internal combustion engine, suspension, brakes, and electrical systems of cars are not that much different these days than they used to be.

If you want to take it to another level, get on auto-trader and find an old air cooled VW and put it back on the road using this book. There's nothing you can't fix with a little patience and the instructions contained within.

u/bmw2002guy · 1 pointr/cars

How to keep your Volkswagen alive. http://www.amazon.com/Keep-Volkswagen-Alive-Step-Step/dp/1566913101
Yes they focus on old Volkswagens but you'll learn a lot about general car maintenance and how they work plus it a fun read and written in non-auto speak for the average person to understand. Most of it will apply to any car you own.

u/Quethandtheheatsinks · 1 pointr/Fahrvergnugen

Half the price here. I don't even own a VW yet and I bought one. It breaks everything down very simply, yet seems like it could guide you on any problems that come up.

u/Damnstraight_man · 1 pointr/beetle

Still waiting on my Haynes manual to give me all the nitty gritty, but I have to say, I cannot recommend this one enough - How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive

(https://smile.amazon.com/Keep-Volkswagen-Alive-Step-Step/dp/1566913101/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497149142&sr=8-1&keywords=how+to+keep+your+volkswagen+alive)

It covers all the basic stuff, and helps a newbie like me grok how all the systems work together.

u/iwatchsportsball · 1 pointr/vandwellers

The only manual you’ll ever need

u/Chift · 1 pointr/vandwellers
  1. it's a bus not a van :)

  2. Depends what year you buy, what shapes it's in etc..

  3. How to learn? Pick up a book, scan the internet and start fixing.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Keep-Volkswagen-Alive-Step-Step/dp/1566913101
u/pouscat · 1 pointr/engineering

This is novel, I get to post on this sub as an answerer instead of a questioner lol.

So, I've got 6 VW busses. They are not really for sale so to speak but those are the credentials. I bought my first bus in 1998 for a $300 while still in high school with 0 mechanical knowledge other than changing my oil.

As some have said here the best way to start is to just jump right in! Find one you like and go for it. When I started buying VWs they were still trash vehicles, everybody had an old one in the backyard and they were just looking to get rid of them. Now they are a bit more precious, you will pay much more for a poor condition bus than I would have for a great one back then. But the upside is there are many more aftermarket places for things that were harder to find then. NADA, Edmunds and the like are useless to find out what busses are worth. It's best to get familiar with online VW communities like the Samba they also have an excellent classified section.

I used a book 60% of the time to figure things out on my bus. Two books you REALLY NEED are The Idiot's Guide and the Bentley book. Between these you are pretty much covered. The Idiot's Guide is similar to Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance, I would recommend reading it cover to cover.

For the other 40% of my VW learning curve I utilized people's advice. Air cooled VW enthusiasts are the best people to get to know. They will always wave and stop to chat when you finally get to drive your bus. Find your closest VW auto club and start joining in activities, make connections and offer to help people fix their cars, it will be a huge help and you will make friends.

Now just a quick final observation and opinion. You said you wanted a "camper van". From that description I can point you to a a '68 to '79 Westphalia. Those are what most people picture with that description. There are three main body styles for busses; Splitty, Bay Window and Vanagon all fall under the general model number Type 2 (beetles are type 1). I don't want to write a novel here so I'll cut it short. If you have any other questions feel free to ask here or PM me, if I don't know I'll know where to look.

u/KX71 · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

I would just start it up and feel the air around the exhaust looking for the pressure escaping, (don't burn yourself) but there may be better and safer ways of checking. If you have heater boxes on the J pipes the leak could be inside one of those and a lot harder to find. And do make sure you have the engine timed correctly, I remember seeing a chart showing that throughout the model years the timing changes between 10 BTDC, 7.5 BTDC, 0 TDC, and 5 ATDC. This Book was very helpful to me and I would absolutely recommend it.

u/k3nnynapalm · 1 pointr/beetle

Woah! I have the same color for my 74. Is that a Canadian Edition Auto Stick too by chance?

Have fun! Seriously, I thought you had my car for a minute there but then realized you'd have to take it off the jack stands and find the elusive 4th tire I need ;P


Edit - To answer your question!
http://www.amazon.ca/Keep-Volkswagen-Alive-Step-Step/dp/1566913101

Check out that book if your beetle needs some work to get running. It's been great for me.

u/BlorfMonger · 1 pointr/vandwellers

If you do get a bus, I highly recommend this book. It is amazing, simple, and has groooovy drawings.

https://www.amazon.com/Keep-Volkswagen-Alive-Step-Step/dp/1566913101

u/BadVoices · 1 pointr/projectcar

If you want reliability.. I'd respectfully spend the extra on an engine case that doesnt need line boring. Line bored engines tend to have a shorter life, it's hard to do right (most use a handheld tool) and it usually costs 200-400 to get it done, plus 150-200 for cylinder boring. A new aluminum case (They are a bit heavy compared to as41 mag...) is roughly 830 dollars shipped, and it would include boring for larger cylinders. (aa performance, use code AASAVE15 )

As for the build, it has gone VERY simple. I used gasgacinch everywhere, and aviation permatex on the jugs for the most part. I replaced a LOT of parts with aftermarket ones, including my heads (the old ones might be rebuild-able, but i found a pulled out spark-plug thread in one..) That said, This is my second re-assembly of this engine. I did a non sealant full assembly to check fits, bearings, clearances, etc.

There's lots of little gotchas with measuring this, that, and the other. Some parts are only available in inferior versions, etc. If you can find a complete vw engine for 200-300, you're saving a lot of money on things like the distributor drive pinion, tin, 1.1 forged rockers, cooling fan, oil relief valves, alternator, etc.

Whatever you do for the engine case, do look into 'full flow' modifications. These permit you to add an external spin on oil filter, which is a big improvement. I'm doing a filter pump.. which isn't amazing, but works. Also look into a sand seal to keep crud and moisture out of the oil, and have a proper crankcase ventilation setup (basically, vac hose to air filter, consider a catch can.) When you go to build the engine, measure everything, including stuff that 'should be' correct. Consider having the crank, crank pulley, flywheel, pistons, rods balanced, then the clutch pressure plate (yup..) balanced. That way, you can replace the pressure plate without hosing the balance on the engine. It's really not super required, but it will help make for a longer life engine. Make sure to get a forged crank, cast cranks are problematic in VW engines because they only have 3 real main bearings. If you're not stroking, it's REALLY hard to beat original forged German cranks, unless you want counterweighted (not needed unless you're revving to the moon...)

All of this is really building up to.. make sure you're basically running a cleanroom on final assembly. Wash even new parts, chase threads carefully, then wash again and bottle brush the oil passages. If your build table is dirty, lay down some paper to keep it clean, etc. Then learn to love the assembly lube. And have all the torques on hand. and torque patterns. You're probably going to be about 1.5-2k into the engine, to be totally honest, tack on another few hundred for your choice in carbs, and whatnot. You can do it all cheaper if you find an engine in fantastic condition that just needs some cleanup, and new P&Cs. Those really do not exist, to be honest, outside of finding an older person's projects when they pass...

ALso: Go get a book. Good overall and excellent for engine building. Saves you money.

u/Angel3 · 1 pointr/auto

Your best bet would be a VW, a chevy, or a ford. Chevy's are super easy to work on and parts are easy to find and relatively inexpensive. Pretty much same with Ford. VWs are also great for beginners. The parts can be a bit more difficult to find, but they're great to learn on. Just get "how to keep your volkswagen alive" http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1566913101/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/185-8215834-7045105 it is the best car repair for noobs guide out there. Try to find something that is solid and runs 1970 or older and you'll be set. I also recommend you go to some car shows and meet & greet with people who have similar tastes in cars. Most car guys are more than willing to help out the new guys.

u/curtquarquesso · 1 pointr/beetle

Even though it's already been posted, John Muir's Volkswagen Bible

I have another book that's handy, but I'm not at home at the moment. I'll post when I get my hands on it.

u/sdguero · 1 pointr/motorcycles

So many upvotes because this is such a common thing for riders. I already had a bike when I met my girl but my parents were very anti and still are. I just make sure that I'm never in an accident (or it's as low a percentage chance as possible). This is what I do/did:

  1. ATGATT
  2. Take the MSF course
  3. Practice panic stopping, swerving, etc in an empty parking lot.
  4. Understand the physics at play and test them (i.e. step 3). There are some good books on amazon, I really liked this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/1620081199/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687542&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=1889540536&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=19KF7X31CBHS2TET8VG2
u/CrustyPrimate · 1 pointr/houston

Been riding here for two and half years and other places for more years. Cycle gear has Dainese mesh armour for under 200. It has held up well, but it smells awful if you don't wash it. Full face helmets with tinted or mirrored shields are your friends and keep you from feeling like an ant under a magnifying glass when the sun is out.

The HOV is your friend. The people on the HOV and pretty much anywhere else are fucking terrible drivers. Any day I'm only merged into twice each commute is a good day. Take it slow, give yourself space, check your mirrors often and watch out for idiots on their fucking phones. I've never had anything thrown at me, but that's probably because I'm all black and people don't see me. Friday and Saturday are the worst nights for riding in town. Sunday, people are not aware enough to care. People are terrible, and you might as well be a tin can in the highway for them to run over. Just be cool and let them by.

The heat is terrible if you are stuck in it. Soak your head, your shirt, a bandanna around your neck to help keep you cool. When you get more miles under your belt, I recommend filtering when traffic isn't moving. Most people won't see you/won't move over, don't give a shit. Some people will honk, or move to block you so keep your levers covered and watch people's mirrors. Go slow, but keep moving. I won't do it around cops, but any time traffic's under twenty and congested, or there's a long line at the light, or morons on the HOV are at a standstill because they want to check out a wreck all the way across the freeway from them, I'll split. Just don't be a douche about it. Be respectful and most people will ignore you. I've been honked at a few times, and yelled at/followed by an angry lady once, but it doesn't get to me. I'm gone by the time most people notice me, and if they're that angry, they should get a bike and boil on it, too.

Get gloves with pockets behind the knuckles, you can fold your toll money in there and pull it out fairly easily to pay tolls. Don't ride tired. Don't drink and ride. Don't be a douche around cops (or in general) and they'll pretty much leave you alone.

Pick up a copy of Proficient Motorcycling by David Hough. Take the MSF course, it's like 200 bucks and worth it. And fun.

The city is not great to ride in, but riding makes commuting in the city bearable. Highways are best. FM roads and back roads are fantastic.

Be Safe!

u/minus0 · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Here you go: Proficient Motorcycling

Specifically the section on how to brake properly in different situations. Learn the entire book though. You can work on going "advanced" from there but this is a great book for learning the basics.

u/joeverdrive · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Congratulations on becoming a real motorcyclist and making it to 5000km!

Can you give us more details? I'd be in a better position to help if you told me what your passengers are saying or what behaviors they are showing instead of being hyperbolic. Same goes for the "ignorant" parents. What misinformation are they getting?

It's going to be an uphill battle to get girls into riding with you if you say they're over-reacting and that their parents are idiots for worrying about putting their daughters' lives in the hands of a rookie rider on a sportbike (even a 125 can look fast to the average person). Listening, understanding, and empathizing come first, then education.

There's a great book you can get for less than $20 called Proficient Motorcycling that will help you--not just with riding two-up, but with overall street skills. It's written for an American rider, but most of the principles are universal.

u/ihatechange · 1 pointr/motorcycles
u/CRF250LDad · 1 pointr/motorcycle

Folks on the internet really swear by Proficient Motorcycling. I'm sure someone who has read it will chime in here to confirm. I haven't read it yet because it is on freaking backorder at amazon, but your library might have it.

u/SirRatcha · 1 pointr/motorcycles

The Hurt Report showed that, compared to the average, people who took classes were half as likely to be in accidents, while those who were taught to ride by friends or family were a third again more likely to be in accidents. I'd be curious to see what a modern study would find about watching YouTube videos to learn the basics.

I've just started reading Proficient Motorcycling to up my game. Sure, I find it a lot of fun to lurk on r/CalamariRaceTeam but my personal goals are in order:

  1. To applaud my kid graduating from college
  2. To be standing up while I do it
  3. To never in my life have a skin graft
  4. To enjoy motorcycle riding

    Achieving proficiency rather than balls-out squidliness fits those goals nicely.
u/BillyBudd1 · 1 pointr/motorcycles
u/lgop · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Your weak spot will be analysing traffic situations. Watch a lot of videos, read a lot of books. Try to internalise all of the various situations that happen and how accidents can happen.

Other than that, go slow, be predictable, give people a chance to see you and don't put yourself where they don't expect you to be. People are not actually out to kill you, its just that they will often not see you or do crazy things.

Riding is not a death sentence. Most riders do not die from riding a motorcycle they die from the same things everyone else dies from, heart disease and cancer.

A good book:

https://www.amazon.ca/Proficient-Motorcycling-Ultimate-Guide-Riding/dp/1620081199/ref=sr_1_1/143-1261988-6650100?ie=UTF8&qid=1503338226&sr=8-1&keywords=proficient+motorcycling

some videos:

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=street+smarts+motorcycle

Your family is just concerned, they will mellow out in time.

u/LittleHelperRobot · 1 pointr/uofm

Non-mobile: 2. If this is your first bike, read this book. I've been riding for years and I still read this every spring.

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

u/Nowaker · 1 pointr/CCW

You cannot control someone else's feelings and emotions, is it guns or motorcycles, but what's really important is the safety of both the rider and other drivers. Physical safety applies to the rider obviously, but there's also mental safety. If you're hit by a car and die, it's going to be a nightmare for the driver even if it was your fault. For this reason I only split when both cars in both lanes stand still. Period. If they're in motion, even 5mph, I'm too - with them in a lane.

I don't remember how I learned it but I guess it's either from Proficient Motorcycling or Street Strategies.

u/Dioreus · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Extended reading; David L Hough's Proficient motorcycling

It should really come standard issue with every motorcycle

Amazon link for the lazy

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1620081199/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1458831961&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=david+l+hough&dpPl=1&dpID=61eBOMa7NpL&ref=plSrch

u/ScienticianAF · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Sounds though you still have the mindset that you are responsible for your driving and they are responsible for theirs...On a bike this is shit. You are responsible for your self and any other traffic. You have to assume they WILL cut you off they WILL not see you etc.
It's a part of a defensive strategy. I would suggest a good book on motorcycle safety:
https://www.amazon.com/Proficient-Motorcycling-Ultimate-Guide-Riding/dp/1889540536

Again, I am not saying I don't run into issues or that I am the perfect rider or that I never have road rage. None of that. But I do now realize that If I don't account for bad drivers ACTIVELY I will eat dirt one day. KNOW that cars are out to get you and just maybe you can prevent it. Just my take on it.

u/Subtlefart · 1 pointr/motorcycles

You'll want to read about it from someplace like here for a proper description. Essentially, it describes matching the speed or revs of the engine when switching into a new gear. When done correctly a proper change in gearing will occur smoothly with no lurch in the bike. If done improperly, you will feel the bike sort of throw itself forward on a downshift, let's say. In the case of a downshift, which took me a long time to realize, you want to blip the throttle while shifting to match the higher rev of the lower gear. Some really badass bikes do this for you. Most do not.

u/seattle_dilettante · 1 pointr/motorcycles

>learned how to spot dangerous situations faster/earlier, defensive driving, etc.

Do this. As important as repairing your bike and your confidence is changing your mindset and your approach to riding. There's almost always something you can do to avoid an accident.

I highly recommend reading Proficient Motorcycling by David L. Hough.

u/thumbtackpress · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I cannot upvote this recommendation enough.

u/Weenie · 1 pointr/motorcycles

With the way the partial fairing is shaped on a Bandit, you may be getting some aerodynamic lift on the front end at those speeds. Add in a little turbulence from the car you're (very ill-advisedly) passing, and you get some chaotic input to your very light front suspension. This can result in a tank-slapper. It can also come from uneven pavement giving the front wheel a bump.

I could never explain the physics as well as David Hough does. Pick up a copy of Proficient Motorcycling and read up on the workings of motorcycle suspension. Another good source is the DVD "A Twist of the Wrist II." And please, please ride more conservatively, especially with so little experience under your belt. I feel like you may be assuming that we motorcyclists are a more daring bunch than we are.

u/NoTor1uS · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Not really sure why you're being downvoted because you asked an extremely important question with an attempt to learn...

For the longest time, I've misunderstood counter steering entirely. As said above, you push one way, you go that way... But it's not as simple as that.

It's important to note the difference between steering and leaning. You push right, causing the tire to point left. Due to the curvature of the tire, the contact point where the tire greets the asphalt shifts, resulting in a lean opposite to the direction you steered.

Here's what really blew my mind that I'd been doing all along. If you pull right, the tire points right, shifting the contact patch from tire to asphalt, resulting in a left lean.

You can try that out next time you ride on a straight road. So long as you aren't yanking on the handle bars, you'll just drift one way or the other.

I'd highly recommend this book. The pictures may all be outdated, but all the crucial skills and scenarios are always relevant.
http://www.amazon.com/Proficient-Motorcycling-Ultimate-Guide-Riding/dp/1889540536

u/johnny2bad · 1 pointr/books
u/Garberage · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I hesitate to offer advice to take less training, but I understand the cost and time investment can be a concern. In PA we get free courses so everyone should start at the BRC.

However, if this is true: "I've read the entire MSF handbook from cover to cover", try finding a written test and test yourself. If you get 100% of the questions right (you really should get them all because they should be obvious answers to you), then I say go for the ERC.

I've taken the BRC/ERC/ARC. The first day of riding in the BRC is all about clutch control (just starting from first), and a few simple loops around the parking lot. Since you are riding to work already, you have these skills.

The BRC will continue with more challenging exercises from there that you may find difficult. However, these exact same exercises are done in the ERC except that you are on your own bike instead of a loaner. I found it better to practice on my own motorcycle than the 125s they provide.

In my experience the ERC was not much harder than the BRC, so I think the value of getting to learn how to perform the maneuvers on your motorcycle is better.

Whatever you decide you absolutely need to do one of them. The statistics show that MSF trained motorcyclists have lower crash rates. Get this book and read up to understand how to lower your risks:

http://www.amazon.com/Proficient-Motorcycling-Ultimate-Guide-Riding/dp/1889540536

u/Django_gvl · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Let me recommend a book to you. Proficient Motorcycling by David Hough. It has given me a boost in confidence in riding the twisties here in western NC. And I've been riding them on a motorcycle for almost 10 years! Check your local library for it, that's where I found mine.

u/AbandonedLogic · 1 pointr/motorcycle

Read proficient motorcycling, it gives real world examples of what to watch out for an I recommend it to anyone who goes out on the street on 2 wheels. I still re-read it every year and make notes of which situations happened to me. I think I'm close to 90% by now

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Proficient-Motorcycling-Hough/dp/1889540536

u/mhud · 1 pointr/Sacramento

The MSF certificate plus your learner's permit should get you your M1 license without taking the riding test. I took the written test, then took MSF, turned in my certificate, and got my M1. That was back in 2003, so maybe it's different now.

I bought an '03 Ninja 250 new for $3,500 or so, rode it exclusively for a year, and since then it's got occasional miles on it. Mine has 15k miles. I chose to get a new one because I am not a good mechanic and I didn't want to have problems with the bike while I was learning. One big downside to buying new is the engine break-in period. Basically my top speed was 35MPH for 500 miles and 55MPH until 1,000 miles. I was learning though, so I stuck to side streets and it was good to keep it slow. I couldn't commute until I got to 3k miles. At my first fill-up, during the break-in period, I got 92MPG! After I started driving more vigorously my economy dropped to about 65MPG. Now the carbs are a little dirty and I get about 55.

A 250 is absolutely a great beginner bike, and you can stick with that size if you have the temperament for it. I expect there to be a lot of 250's out there cheaper than the one you found, but listings won't pick up until just before spring.

One reason a 250 may not work for you is if you are over 200 pounds. I had to upgrade the rear shock on mine because it was either causing or worsening some lower back pain. The upgrade was from a newer model Ninja, though, so maybe that's not an issue after 2003.

Make sure to budget for gear. I think I spent $1k on gear at the time I got the bike. Also budget for insurance. At the time I got the bike, insurance was much cheaper than for an auto.

A couple good resources:

u/syntheticwild · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Make it your business to be safe on the bike and never lose your head. The world is scary, both on and off the bike, so ride defensively within your comfort zone.

Could also see about doing more classes at MSF.
Or read some into the activity, I bought Proficient Motorcycling to read in my spare time when I first got my bike 10 or so years ago? I never finished it but it seems like a decent enough resource.

u/demon646 · 0 pointsr/motorcycles

I read a bunch of different answers. I only use the brakes for slowing or stopping. When I've accomplished that, I let them go or let up. I try to be as efficient with my controls as possible, only using what I need, when I need it. That gives my brain more time to process the "big picture". I used to think of the bike as an extension of myself. Now, after experience and practice, it is :)

There is a lot that needs to be paid attention to when riding, so taxing your brain in a pseudo "ready mode" or other taxing thought processes isn't as good as fully paying attention to the present. Definitely practice any riding skills until they become natural. My goal is to have total awareness of my surroundings as much of the time as possible, but instantly focusing 100% on any potential emergencies while spending as little time in that state as possible, then going immediately back to total awareness. For example: I'm sitting at a stop light, swivel my helmet and see some one coming up fast. I then take action. Could be tap the brake, turn on my turn signal, or grab the bars and make my best effort to move to safety if needed depending on the situation. Then reset and scan.

With more practice, one can grab the clutch, twist the throttle, shift to 1st, and start releasing the clutch in well under 1 second or seemingly simultaneously. I've been riding for 21 years and it's 2nd nature, (I don't think about it) which allows for they key to being on the road in any vehicle = pay attention.

--

This is an absolute must for ANY rider weather you're racing, riding , or driving:
http://amzn.com/0965045021
http://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-II-Keith-Code/dp/0965045072

u/RocketGrouch · -3 pointsr/motorcycles

This stuff really shouldn't be on Youtube though, as this is a commercial and pirated video.

Watch it by all means and then thank Keith Code properly:

https://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-II-Keith-Code/dp/0965045072/

https://www.amazon.com/Twist-Wrist-Vol-High-Performance-Motorcycle/dp/0965045021

u/bgrouphero · -3 pointsr/motorcycles

Truly! No, not, but dude... recognize you got really lucky that didn't go a lot worse and learn something from it other than that KTMs are sweet. That mistake could have killed you. Or don't, I'm not the boss of you.

Edit: Good reading if you haven't come across a copy yet. http://smile.amazon.com/Proficient-Motorcycling-Ultimate-Guide-Riding/dp/1620081199/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425319807&sr=8-1&keywords=proficient+motorcycling

u/MoneyIsTiming · -20 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

Did you just make this up or did you read that in a book like I did in addition to engine calibration experience.

Edit: Actual book I am referring to