Best automotive brake system parts according to redditors
We found 342 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive brake system parts. We ranked the 246 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 342 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive brake system parts. We ranked the 246 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
I have dealt with them and had bad communication and some attitude.
Some of the stuff they sell is available on amazon/ebay for less than half the price.. and believe me.. their versions are the same garbage quality.
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Example:
$70+shipping
http://www.subispeed.com/carbon-fiber-e-brake-replacement-handle-2015-wrx-2015-sti#.XO1AcohKiI4
$32 shipped
https://www.amazon.com/3AMOTOR-Carbon-Replacement-Brake-Handle/dp/B01L92CZ0K/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=wrx+carbon+ebrake+handle&qid=1559052414&s=gateway&sr=8-2
A lot of people seem to misunderstand where break squeaking comes from. It's very rare that the sound actually comes from the contact of the pad and rotor. Rather, the squeak comes from the contact of the pad and the caliper: see image.
Basically, as the brakes rub against the rotor, they like to vibrate and wiggle around a bit, and it's that direct metal-on-metal contact between the backing plate and the caliper that ends up squeaking.
The easiest and best solution is to get some Disk Brake Quiet and apply a small amount of it to the back of your pad where it would normally be in contact with the caliper. This creates just enough of a buffer that the brake pad can shimmy around as it needs to, but won't rub against the caliper and squeak.
FIPG is just RTV silicone, right? CRC makes this stuff which is basically RTV with a funny shaped nozzle on it for exactly this purpose. I've used it and it does stop squeaks, but also is a huge pain in the ass that you have to be careful not to get everywhere and is impossible to get off your calipers.
They usually have a little springy cable that connects to your seat or handlebars as a reminder to remove the lock... because yes, if you try to ride it with the lock still on, you're gonna have a bad time
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https://www.amazon.ca/Master-Lock-8303DPS-Disc-Brake/dp/B0009V1WR0
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This kind of thing is what Speedyworm is talking about, I think.
Start of a long line of new parts for the 2000 XJ:
Finally got the ball joints out yesterday around 1pm.
Had to go get an impact gun to even touch the axle nut. Then the damn 13mm 12 point bolts that hold the hub in. Some how I did not strip a single one but have no faith in putting them back in, so now waiting for new bolts to be delivered. Every single cotter pin on the ball joints were so rusted and pushed into the castle nut that I couldn't get them out, so go get new impact sockets (and another trip for swivel sockets for the upper) and unleash all hell to shear the cotter pins off.
Finally got to pushing the ball joints out and the OTC set receiving cup is a touch to big for the lower ball joint, so off to Harbor Freight to get an adapter set.
Anyways, half a rant but happy to hopefully have a Jeep that wont wobble down the road.
I'm pretty sure it's none of those wires. Those appear to be the speaker wires. You really need to consult the manual for your head unit to see which is the correct wire.
Edit:
According to Google, this will work for you.
MicroBypass Parking Brake Override Bypass for Sony https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005SVTMKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uaX8Bb05K6EPX
You can buy a tester for a couple bucks on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Brake-Fluid-Tester-calibrated-fluids/dp/B005HVG4GQ
Buying from the dealer is great because of convenience and returns, but you can usually get the same OEM parts online for cheaper if you can look up your own part numbers. These are the exact same OEM pads for your car the dealer is charging $110 for half-price
Brake pads are perfectly fine to buy aftermarket. You can go to an auto parts store or buy online.
At an auto parts store they will usually give you an option of different qualities. Usually the most expensive ones are about the same quality as OEM pads. I would buy those. The cheaper pads will work decent, but they will wear out faster.
I prefer to shop online. Check out rockauto.com. From there I'll google the different options they present to see if there is anything positive or negative about the brand/model. Then once I've settled on a few option I might buy I cross shop those parts on Amazon and Ebay and will buy from whichever of the 3 it is cheapest.
EDIT: Searched and found these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HO7B84 That is probably what I'd buy. Made in Korea just like your car likely from the same OEM supplier
It's not that hard honestly.
I bought a kit that includes most of what I needed (Brush & paint, caliper cleaner, tape, etc)
Before doing that, I used a metal brush with compressed air to clean most of the rust and dirt, then I used the caliper cleaner in the box kit and painted it with the application brush. You just follow the instructions on the box, really.
I lifted the car and had fun for a good two hours
Kit I bought and recommend : http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-BCP400-Red-Brake-Caliper/dp/B000B6AF80/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462380278&sr=8-1&keywords=duplicolor+caliper+paint+kit
Also took a picture during the job : http://imgur.com/cefpf3u
You mean the bits that check to see if you’re moving so you can’t do things like manage connections while underway? I didn’t, I used a Microbypass.
https://www.amazon.com/MicroBypass-Parking-Override-Bypass-Alpine/dp/B006FKAHFM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=microbypass+alpine&qid=1573396858&sprefix=microby&sr=8-1
Not him but https://www.amazon.com/Brake-Fluid-Tester-calibrated-fluids/dp/B005HVG4GQ
handrake:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carbon-Fiber-Hand-E-Brake-Handle-Black-for-Scion-FR-S-Subaru-BRZ-2015-Impreza/133059292331?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
https://www.amazon.com/3amotor-Carbon-Replacement-Brake-Handle/dp/B07DWXM94P/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=brz+carbon+fiber&qid=1568563553&sr=8-4
cheaper version: https://www.amazon.com/3AMOTOR-Carbon-Replacement-Brake-Handle/dp/B01L92CZ0K/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=brz+carbon+fiber&qid=1568563553&sr=8-3
heated seat cover: I got model B which doesn't have the holes for the heated seat switches.
BRZ: https://www.amazon.com/wroadavee-Carbon-Heating-Button-2012-2017/dp/B07D17DCCG/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=brz%2Bcarbon%2Bfiber&qid=1568563553&sr=8-6&th=1
86: https://www.amazon.com/wroadavee-Carbon-Heating-Button-2012-2017/dp/B07D15R2PF/ref=sr_1_24?keywords=carbon+fiber+gt86&qid=1568563668&sr=8-24
center console:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carbon-Fiber-For-BRZ-FT86-GT86-Center-Console-inc-gear-Interior-Surround-Kit-RHD/183750090537?hash=item2ac85bdf29&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&enc=AQAEAAADQKvsXIZtBqdkfsZsMtzFbFsbX3WcW5fmB%2Fx7ZbaZTyexYiCjwjYFbZJlflxfB4AGoJ1zOkTWoRHYF%2BlkXz5JgPlvOAGfj9E31jZ6vPH8GqAU5n8%2B10f81TJFv1y2JKYfL25tp%2FPM2FnQ4cQKpHdv3RXjtvwJ6okW4sQY8lf9JxOYRjqVhlNlFUkOC8sMKgEql4C9oKSN1M1eE1BtPi6QrFvKogNmqog%2Br9%2FaCYR4BlgfP4TYl3ASauC75F2e2yBYGmOXzDuubpbtTisOjC1Q8VneY6k9ZakTOO%2FM%2Fcl0WvUgvvgCwlMnnKfktU4FnDkGNWTrMxf7izZRx66E7Roie%2B9savmj%2B2bcCEDkLkxi5WfTGSwjJ%2Fuj%2BPcVDwZamp2V87Hj1CJW7BGDLCVAT4RXnSVGeEppKkeRIjI%2F1FfTkTBXJwbFFuOKEn2MCHq0oWn5NcCyaYF8XZ8uJKOUDMEozsXMoUoV08qoxl9dDlkWjMx2GiT0agU%2FYafRsLBH3XHOo8LkVWXfSvgQvyE0gGMMiN36IBUCHXNl9qwDkeRb6b0U9xMpJlHGm1R4KJ7BNNg%2FxU6QeQj2I2HL8st7acgx4nDu1bn5UHxPJfgkgCvnx6MMLWFY6PPxQPOaZWz6wSNO3lshj6xbC%2F8bvm3w%2BI%2FL106eu7T%2B58uAyUGricun52yPA6o9xPkdKHYDyr%2BW6ofQ8Rs%2Bmhppr4J4ry6h3yWAUviOnIhgAswWJe7TErFSpS7i0zxW7luaqMbZZ7J6LFbcjNHMli0mWJ0IQYZbCmpvNL2HK5GdDkPhXJJA78z%2B7Uq7Sk1PVpeNUG4DkYq%2B4etAOYvormW6GN7wfFkJbLn%2Bf1txDAYp5FDGo46NJdl5c7GeDyC3lEfyB8AsAMtf7qaSwR8q%2BU0pf6Ap6jv5Jn0cZXeFL26HVMcOjjoSp2NJ0qp%2B%2FdsBnq3Tatbd80DsgO7p9PjtKbv3csLb0sg7mT1uEymkg4LzCZKNU5lXe0ybBnq7C9lvPvxy2LnKyP0%2FycQNYia2DFO%2BU4ffZzp61%2Bz8CgOPOBwZlJAzkbWzMUsRLpbYs6fGyfrXi8T7IvLfJQj0r%2FqKstxU%2BYHZLPuXQ2iOEso%3D&checksum=183750090537ae94ba350cfc4323a62b769a4ba89268
https://www.ebay.com/itm/CFAC-Carbon-Fiber-Center-Console-Overlay-FOR-13-16-Scion-FR-S-FRS-Subaru-BRZ/174023360680?fits=Model%3ABRZ&hash=item288499c0a8:g:mfcAAOSw8RJXBwEa
These are a lot more expensive than when I bought them. Not sure if the chinese tariffs have anything to do with it.
Not really a hard mod, but it can be a little tricky if you've never bled a clutch before. I had never done one prior to the mod, so I grabbed a speed bleeder valve (allows 1 person to do this pretty quickly - it's a one-way valve to make sure no air gets back into the lines when bleeding). I also grabbed some OEM VW brake fluid (yes, I too learned the clutch uses the same fluid and reservoir as the brakes).
Also, you should probably buy a $7 brake fluid moisture tester.
https://www.amazon.com/Hayes-Brake-Rotor-Alignment-Tool/dp/B002SQTRXK
Don't leave home without it
They sell it in fancy red "made for this purpose".
most of my cars never ever squeak, i don't do anything at all.
but the one car that did squeak required that i put a silicone type liquid that solidifies in-between the bad and brake piston.
https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05016-Single-Brake-Quiet/dp/B000CINV88/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=brake+squeak&qid=1573783729&sr=8-1
"Disk Brake Quiet" Like this stuff from CRC which I use creates a rubber like film when it dries to stop metal chattering against itself. It is on the pad
facesbackings and they do not need to move once installed against the caliper bracket and caliper cylinder, so a lubricant is not needed.As far as the grease Syl-Glide is silicone based and works very well. The Permatex Ceramic lube I use lists as being "Compatible with internal/external brake rubber and plastic hardware, including ethylene-propylene rubber."
It’s just a tacky goo that you put on the back of the brake pad (according to the DIY video I watched about a month ago). Stops the inevitable brake squeak
I haven’t tried it but am planning to. I just had my 5000 mile service and asked them to look at it (first Harley) and the brake noise came back louder... so frustrating
CRC Disc Brake Quiet 05016, 4 Fl Oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CINV88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pOF7AbP1Z6HSX
It's only $15 if you find you do this often.
http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-8303DPS-Disc-Brake/dp/B0009V1WR0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453246144&sr=8-1&keywords=motorcycle+lock
This happened in mine too until I changed the brake pads and used this where the pads contact the caliper.
The brake squeal is due to the pad itself vibrating within the caliper. You could always just pop them out, and apply some CRC BrakeQuiet to the back of the pads and pop them back in to resolve it.
I usually grease the following locations:
It seems you have done all this in your original post... I can only offer two more solutions:
1.) Bed your brakes in hard... Get it on the highway and do a few hard stops from 70 MPH down to 30. This'll heat up the pads and burn off any impurities that may be on the surface of them.
2.) They sell a red goop at auto parts stores. https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Disc-Brake-Quiet-05016/dp/B000CINV88
Use a thick layer of that to adhere the shims to the brake pad.
You're literally rubbing two chunks of metal together... The brake rotor and brake pads. There's bound to be some vibration. The idea is to minimize that vibration. Usually grease helps stop the vibration from getting from the pads and reverberating in the rest of the front end of the car... The shims and clips act like springs and prevent vibrations. The red goo acts like a cushion and further dampens vibrations.
The squeaking noise is harmless, but annoying. If you can't get rid of it, don't worry too much.
Got a friend that uses disc on a qr skewer, He was having problems every ride with brake rub.
He found this tool and it has eliminated his brake rub ever since.
This isnt actually something that I deal with so I dont know first hand but he seems pleased with it and has stated that the brake rub dissappeared. I do have to actually keep up with him now though :P
Here is a full list not including the subwoofer and trim panel tool kit I used: https://imgur.com/a/pkcl5Du
Other odds and ends: https://imgur.com/a/SwvCyuz
You will need a subwoofer capable of 2 ohm impedance. I highly recommend this one: https://alpine-usa.com/product/view/x-w10d4/
You wire up the 2 voice coils in parallel which makes it 2 ohms, capable of the 1000 watts. The box I used is on the smaller end of proper box size, this one might be a better bet but it's considerably larger: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_777BB101V/Sound-Ordnance-Bass-Bunker.html
If all that is too pricey for you you can opt for a cheaper headunit. This was my second choice, it supports Android Auto as well: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-Zdky5C59JAD/p_158XAV100/Sony-XAV-AX100.html
If you go with Alpine/CarPlay, do yourself a favor and get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/MicroBypass-Parking-Override-Bypass-Alpine/dp/B006FKAHFM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1537111335&sr=8-2&keywords=alpine+parking+brake+bypass
If you get stuck, or need advice on running wires or grounding points I'd be happy to help. My 2015 Passat sounds fantastic!
Found it it raised in price (or maybe it was on sale when i looked idk) but its atleast 30 bucks cheaper than from subispeed.
Just get the tygon Stuff with appropriate diameter and clips to hold it onto the brake res.
Well your dealership is conning more service from you, don't do it, your brake fluid should last as long as your car, unless the seal gets damaged, the amount of moisture that contaminates the fluid would be so minute, you can get a brake fluid tester online for $50 and it's the same tool the dealership should have, and that tells you the moisture content of the fluid.
https://www.amazon.ca/OTC-Tools-4598-DOT3-Brake-Tester/dp/B00VX0LAQY Brake fluid tester
>What are some ways of preventing theft of the scooter? Does it involve some specialty lock or perhaps being specific about where I park?
I have a [Gorilla Alarm] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J3QM4SS/ref=twister_B00WGCGQWQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1) on my scoot but sometimes it goes off unexpectedly and it drains the battery quick if you don't ride your scooter often.
I use to use a U-Lock to attach to my wheel but I've almost rode off a couple of times with it still attached so I hardly use it.
You can get one of [disc brake locks] (https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-8303DPS-Disc-Brake/dp/B0009V1WR0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469235803&sr=8-1&keywords=disc+brake+lock) that attaches to your front brake disc and comes with a reminder strap that you attach to the handlebars so you don't ride off with it still attached.
But I highly suggest getting full coverage insurance if you don't have it already in case the scooter does get stolen. Scooters are so light that 2 people could lift it onto the back of a truck and take off. The money you get back from full coverage insurance is surprisingly fair, at least with State Farm.
>I live in Houston. The sun is pretty intense and I love the paint job on my scooter. Is there a way to protect the paint with products or is a simple scooter cover the solution?
This is a great question because if you don't protect the body, it will start fading on you.
You can either use a [paste wax] (https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05500-California-Brazilian-Carnauba/dp/B0002U1TVW/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1469236135&sr=1-1&keywords=mother%27s+wax) or [liquid wax] (https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05750-California-Brazilian-Carnauba/dp/B0002U1TX0/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1469236135&sr=1-2&keywords=mother%27s+wax) to give you the best protection. Remember to follow the instructions that come with the wax.
You can use a [spray wax] (https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05724-California-Gold-Spray/dp/B001MXX5D8/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1469236261&sr=1-1&keywords=mother%27s+spray+wax) which is the easiest to apply and remove but it doesn't offer the same kind of protection that a paste or liquid wax gives.
Btw, I only used Mother's as an example but most of the brands that you find at your local auto parts store should be fine. Also, make sure to always use a Microfiber towel when doing anything on the scooter's body. Microfiber towels scratch the body the least vs. any other kind of towel.
I bought one of those $10 brake fluid testers on Amazon. It reads how much moisture is in the fluid. Green light good, red light bad. You just dip the little prongs into the reservoir.
https://www.amazon.com/PTE-Tester-calibrated-Brake-fluids/dp/B005HVG4GQ
Dip one of these into the reservoir...
You can get cheap piston wind in tools, used them several times already. Also you can get a good quality set if you're often doing brake jobs. We use this cheap set, not for heavy duty usage!
http://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-78618-Caliper-Tool/dp/B002RDGMNM/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396495415&sr=8-1&keywords=brake+piston+tool
Lots of other places have it http://www.amazon.com/Brake-Caliper-Piston-Compressor-Windback/dp/B00CWRF1S0/ref=pd_sbs_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1PAHZDW7M3CNXWJMMDT8
Squealing has nothing to do with pad thickness. The only thing that matters is pad thickness - replace when they get under "nickle thin." You can addresss the squealing by applying anti-squeal paste to the backsides.
I recommend these begginer tools for you, they'll help you a ton: Brake fluid tester, a brake pad gauge, a coolant tester and Lubricheck. Also if you don't have one get a Torque wrench or you'll fuck up your car's screw holes, and finally, get a Haynes repair manual for your specific model.
They are covers. I have the same ones https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QX3K2PQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm assuming the shop checked to see if the pads were worn? Brakes are designed to screech unpleasantly if the pad is worn out.
If you think the pads are dirty maybe try taking them out and cleaning them off with some brake cleaner and an old toothbrush?
edit: clean the rotor, too.
another edit: some research tells me that some folks have had noisy brakes due to the brake piston rubbing on the metal back of the brake pad. Some people have put a piece of duct tape between the piston and pad, and there is also a product called CRC disk Brake Quiet
At least those are half-way convincing unlike some other ones I've seen. Also, wow, $200. lol, that's a quarter way to just buying real multi-piston calipers all around.
http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-BCP400-Red-Brake-Caliper/dp/B000B6AF80
here you go. This is what you should use.
I used this and it worked fine.
I have also looked for this type of thing and couldnt find any clear tubes that big that also withstood E85, or gasoline. I ended up using aluminum tubing and a sight tube, ends up being lighter if you use thin wall tubing. Here is the line I use, also good for brake line sight tubes. https://www.amazon.com/Tygon-Clear-Reservoir-6-35mm-Brembo/dp/B0117SUVNO
Not the best possible security - but I agree it's somewhat safer now. It doesn't have to be impossible to steal: it just needs to be a bit harder than they are prepared to deal with.
Not that someone can't cut it off - but they'd have to approach the bike with cutters and actually cut it. Of course they can just pick it up and put it in a van - but the quality of the cable/chain/lock wouldn't affect that at all.
As an alternative, even a cheap disc lock is pretty hard to remove.
here it is
And definitely. I hate that they didn’t match it with the shift boot.
Once I find either one matching the shift boot or a pair I like I’ll pick it up.
It's a 3M product for cleaning rust off the wheel hub before installing the rotor.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-07547-Scotch-Brite-Roloc-Cleaning/dp/B0013HHNPY
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-Brake-Shackle-8303DPS/dp/B0009V1WR0
While all locks are simply a deterrent, not really protection adding this to your bag with a u-lock or beefy hardened chain lock would help keep your scooter yours.
Also, I would never lock my scooter up for more than 5 minutes, max. If I'm going to in somewhere for more than that the scooter stays home or goes in with me.
Woah shit. Maybe invest in one yourself then?
may be something like this will fix your issue.
bleeding brake lines is pretty easy.. Easier if you get a power bleeder or even a harbor freight brake vacuum pump bleeder.
no idea about the time estimate though. A miata takes like half hour with two people and pure foot pumping.
Might I recommend this kit from Duplicolor. Take the brakes off and do 4 coats. Makes a great difference.
The padlock would definitely stop your scooter from rolling but one day, you might forget it's on there and try to take off which would cause some damage.
They sell [disc brake locks] (http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-8303DPS-Disc-Brake/dp/B0009V1WR0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1427514154&sr=8-2&keywords=disc+brake+lock) that come with a coiled strap that you attach to your handlebars after attaching the lock to your disc. The strap is a reminder that you have the disc brake attached before you try and take off.
I just got and installed one of [these] (http://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-9000-Motorcycle-Remote-Transmitter/dp/B00J3QM4SS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427513872&sr=8-1&keywords=gorilla+alarm)
Although it's just an alarm without an ignition kill, it is pretty loud and it only took me about an hour to install.
This alarm also has the option of adding a 2-way remote which supposedly works for up to a 1/2 mile away and it notifies you if your alarm is going off.
I highly recommend this alarm if you could spare $100 bucks.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006FKAHFM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_a6FYCbTM1M7VV
I had a bit of free time today and I happened to find it pretty quick.
Heres the dash kit
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_003MAZK860/American-International-MAZK860-Dash-Kit-Painted-silver-black.html
Remember you’re not going to use those side plastic pieces. You’ll have a better fit using the metal ones already on the stock radio
You can try using this or this.
Disc locks are useful. And for good measure you can use a bicycle lock on the rear wheel and lock it to a immobile object like a street lamp.
get a brake bypass circuit and ask them to install it when the fix the job: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006FKAHFM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
this is the one I bought and my car never complains about being in park to make changes to the settings
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005SVVBRC/
Get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C5C71S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Makes bleeding the clutch simple.
I have no experience working on cars and I thought removing the delay valve was pretty easy.
I put the Alpine i207-WRA in my 2012 JKUR with the stock amp/sub and love it. With the Maestro (included in the restyle kit), I can use my steering wheel controls, and was able to reprogram them so volume is on the left set of buttons and track changes are on the right (like my BMW). Yeah, it was expensive, but the fact that it comes with literally everything you need, including trim that makes it look and fit stock and the Maestro for steering wheel control integration makes it worth it.
Install was a breeze, and the install video is complete and easy to follow. I did it myself, and the only thing I had to do custom was the parking brake bypass -- Alpine's harness has wires hidden behind tape you can solder to, so there's no need to splice (see guide here). Routing the wiring for the GPS antenna was a little annoying as it's quite short, but it does reach.
I installed a backup camera at the same time, and that was a total breeze as well. Just plug it in, tell the head unit it exists, and it works automatically when you put it in reverse.
CarPlay works great, but it's not wireless. Google Maps likes to forget you started navigation if you do it before you start the car, but otherwise, no gripes.
It's really cool to be able to see tire pressure on all 4 tires, battery voltage, intake/coolant temp, etc on the Alpine (via the Maestro's OBD-II connection).
You cannot use the stock microphone, it's not the right kind of microphone. The aftermarket mic is a little ugly and not integrated nicely, but you get used to it.
First I'll say the built in steering lock is useless and can be broken in seconds. Use it, but never depend on it. (It will help with idiots.)
Get at least one, maybe two, disk brake locks. This will help keep them from moving the bike. Also, an alarm and a GPS unit help too. Keep the cover on as well.
Sounds like there is some air in the system, especially if you changed the caliper. I would suggest re-bleeding. Start at the rear wheel furthest from reservoir, the other rear wheel, the front furthest from res, then the front nearest. Or use a pressure or vacuum bleeder, those tools are fantastic. https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-101-System-Bleeder/dp/B00CJ5DWKO/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1497525897&sr=8-13&keywords=pressure+bleeder
https://www.amazon.com/Brake-Fluid-Tester-calibrated-fluids/dp/B005HVG4GQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1483370723&sr=8-3&keywords=brake+fluid+tester
You don't need a switch like that any more. https://www.amazon.com/MicroBypass-Parking-Override-Bypass-Kenwood/dp/B005SVXQS4
CRC Disc Brake Quiet http://www.amazon.ca/CRC-Disc-Brake-Quiet-05016/dp/B000CINV88
As an [example] (http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-BCP400-Red-Brake-Caliper/dp/B000B6AF80/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405087744&sr=8-1&keywords=brake+caliper+paint+kit)
http://www.amazon.com/Auto-120-0116-Disc-Brake-Pad/dp/B004HO7B84?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
This one right here, cheers!
Here are fitting pads for $28 and here are fitting Bosch rotors for $43. The retail prices for those parts are ~$30 and ~$60.
https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Disc-Brake-Quiet-05016/dp/B000CINV88
No, a free firmware flash on pre 2015(?) fix that. I only had the sticky breaks a week before I went and had it flashed at a dealership.
Problem with bad break fluid is you can't tell you need a flush till your breaks fail in an emergency situation. You can buy a tester and use a different but compatible DOT that absorbs water less. I think DOT4 and DOT5.1 absorb water slower than DOT3.
I use this applied to the back of the brake pads. I have never had a car make brake noise for a long long time with this stuff applied onto the back of the pads and calipers lubed up.
https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Disc-Brake-Quiet-05016/dp/B000CINV88/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494050530&sr=8-2&keywords=brake+pad+grease
Are you using one of these? I've run into several that just wouldn't budge using hand pressure with the cube of death.
I can do my own front brakes, with no power tools, in about 2-3 hours. Firestone, with this coupon, is $200 for the front brakes, these are the pads they use. So it's almost $175 in labor there, with the coupon, assuming they don't still charge you for parts, which is not explained on the coupon.
I don't get paid $87 an hour, so it's seriously worth it for me to do my own. I can get mine and my girls done in one sweatty greasey morning, and save $350 over paying some teenage grease monkey to do it for me.
This exact part. It allows fluid and air out, and doesn't let air back in. I got this to catch excess fluid.
Dupli-Color EBCP40000 Red Brake Caliper Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B6AF80/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.8kZBbJ0EAG07
I just installed one last week. Get this and you won’t regret it.
MicroBypass Parking Brake Override Bypass for Alpine https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006FKAHFM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_deI6Cb8KXEQ8Z
I have always used the same stuff I use on the pins on the ears. I think you can put it on the back too, but I use this stuff: https://smile.amazon.com/CRC-05016-Disc-Brake-Quiet/dp/B000CINV88
I have no idea if that stuff works or not to tell you the truth, it's just what my dad always used and it doesn't seem to cause any problems. The $6 bottle will last me decades.
Neat, and only $15
The only real way to secure it would be to chain it to something solid since most scooters are stolen by a couple of guys hoisting it into the back of a pickup truck.
But since that's not an option for most, I suggest one of these [brake disc locks] (https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-8303DPS-Disc-Brake/dp/B0009V1WR0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1500700029&sr=8-2&keywords=brake+disc+lock) but more importantly, get full coverage insurance with a low deductible.
https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Disc-Brake-Quiet-05016/dp/B000CINV88
[Here's a set of AC Delco ceramic brake pads off Amazon. $25, and just buy something with it to get free shipping.] (https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-14D477CH-Advantage-Ceramic-Front/dp/B00KUL9XSO/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Jeep%7C42&Model=Wrangler%7C356&Year=2002%7C2002&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive)
You're right, Jeeps are meant for fun. But if that's your only car and you're borrowing your mom's car to get around, you need to fix it pronto. The squealing comes from the rotors and other stuff. Whatever. The pads are the cheapest and quickest fix right now. You can buy some anti-squeal lotion and put that on the pads if you want.
This is the one I bought: MicroBypass Parking Brake Override Bypass for Kenwood https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005SVXQS4/
I like using one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/3M-07547-Scotch-Brite-Roloc-Cleaning/dp/B0013HHNPY
You may be able to find one at your auto parts store.
It cleans the area around the stud easily and you can use it between the studs too. Best to get the rust off so the rotor lays flat on the hub or you can get some pulsing.
You talking about this stuff which I was told to put on the slide pins and "ears" of the brake pads? Or this other stuff which clearly advertises stopping squeaks but I've never used and really don't know where I'm supposed to apply it?
Also where am I supposed to apply it and what is the difference between them? Could I use both? Also can I use it on my motorcycle because the front brake squeaks constantly even tho the pads are fine?
Some cars seem more sensitive to it than others, but almost every car I've had has eventually had a little bit (sometimes a fair bit) of rust on the hub surface and has been fine after some wire brushing. Hopefully you're good to go and they're just a little noisy.
If you do eventually suspect that's an issue though, 3M makes a really nice hub cleaning kit. I've been too cheap to bother purchasing one yet though. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013HHNPY/
http://www.tooltopia.com/mayhew-tools-29910.aspx
http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-6295.aspx
Both of those are a little cheaper on tooltopia and you don't have to pay tax (or at least, I don't, idk what the rules are for who does and doesn't) or shipping on orders over $75.
For long term use, I'd probably trust Astro Pneumatic's brand name over Ztech. I've always had great luck from AP tools, and they have an identical looking kit for $9 more on Amazon. Many years ago, I bought a cheap (holy crap, just looked it up and I paid almost $50 for that shipped) piston kit from ebay, it lasted about a year. The pin on the main plate sheared off. But that was a long time ago, maybe they're cheaper and better now?
Something to keep in mind with that inner tie rod tool, it doesn't have a lifetime warranty, and the mechanism will break at some point, and it's $52 for the replacement part. I have one, but I rarely use it. It's usually easier to just turn the wheel all the way and use some Knipex Cobra pliers.
I do most of my tool shopping between Amazon, Tooltopia, and eBay anymore. Between the three, you can usually find a pretty good deal.
I certainly trust OTC tools, I've never really had any problems and have a lot of them (and a lot of them that are rebranded as Mac/Matco/Cornwell).
These are the spring compressors I have, only problem I've had is that the little nub on the pin that prevents flying parts if it slips? That thing sometimes is too large to fit over the spring.
I have a Mac EM710 multimeter, and a Fluke 77 IV also. I like the Fluke better because the Mac turns on in AC for whatever freaking reason (srsly, it's a multimeter primarily marketed at auto techs working exclusively with DC, made by a company that almost exclusively sells to auto techs, but the damn thing turns on in AC every single time. wtf.), but I like the Mac better because the body is more square so it'll sit on it's side easier.
Power Probe's are also super duper handy, you can quickly check if something has power and ground without having to change the other end of your test light, and you can quickly apply power to check if a component is functioning. And they're super cheap on Amazon these days. That makes me sad, I paid like $200 for my PP3!
Some people say you need the microbypass for that radio: https://www.amazon.com/MicroBypass-Parking-Brake-Override-Bypass/dp/B005SVVBRC
Others say you just need to connect the cable marked parking brake to ground or the black wire of the JVC.
I had to use the microbypass on the Pioneer AVH-2330NEX.