Best automotive fuel pumps & accessories according to redditors

Alright, thanks a lot. I have to replace the whole thing, right? I found a unit on Amazon for $113.
https://www.amazon.com/Evan-Fischer-EVA13012161558-Module-Assembly-Civic/dp/B01LYSG8TM/ref=pd_ybh_a_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=X705KHYYN06AF49YPKZS

Good first step is a Rear Motor Mount + Fuel Pump Upgrade + SRI, I have the K&N Typhoon since was cheaper at the time + a Turbo Inlet Pipe (can just get one of the $50 ones from ebay...) then a Cobb Accessport V2 used or get a new V3.

you're on the right track, and EFI tank with internal baffling is the best way to go. but i'm not sure who makes them for the second gen f-bodys. but i think Spectra makes them, they talk about it here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=265374

EDIT: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F4TTVIE?pc_redir=1410495248&robot_redir=1

For black/gray water offloading, I'd look at a sewer bladder vs. moving the whole rig. I had one made and it comes in about 100g. They can make them larger, though. Check it out here:

https://learntorv.com/sewer-bladder/

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For bringing water back, you can use an AQUATANK2 bladder. They come in a variety of sizes.

https://learntorv.com/aquatank2-water-bladder/

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As mentioned, getting A/C is going to be the hardest nut to crack. My toy hauler has 2 x 40g gas tanks and a built-in Onan 5500. It supposedly uses 1/2g / hour of gas but I haven't actually measured/checked. We don't tend to run it 24x7 unless we really need to so a tank of fuel lasts us a while. Filling from 5g containers into the toy hauler is pretty miserable, but I just found this gas can fuel pump that I'm hoping to get + try soon. For your needs, I might see if I could get an auxiliary tank so you could refill at one go.

Sorry thought the link in the title would work more pictures here. I purchased this replacement.

I have a DRZ400, it's a pretty well known problem with stock petcocks. The thing just slowly leaks gas until your carb is flooded and you can't start you bike (by slowly I mean months).

So a lot of DRZ400 owners get this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B3SJYZK?tag=vs-powersports-insert-amazon-20

It's a shut off, but the problem is you have to shut it off pretty much every time when you leave your bike at all vs stock where there is just a slight leak (small leak as in a few minutes your bike won't start vs a small leak where your bike won't start after a month of sitting). Granted this is better because it shuts off all fuel from going in the carb, it sucks still because I always forget on small trips to the store and what not and my bike won't start.

I was searching craigslist and ebay and yard sales for a rolling 15-20gal fuel caddy but most were gravity fed and my dock isn't always sitting with the right tide for that to work for me. Finally gave up on a $140-300 caddy and picked up 15.5 gal blue poly chemical jugs for free from a local guy. I paid $17 for a 12v fuel transfer pump and then 10-20' of 3/4" fuel line from Napa/Advance Auto Parts etc. I made my money back after my first fill up at Wawa/Thorntons with Eth-Free gas with how expensive my fuel dock in Tampa is. When you're saving $1 per gallon and doing 30-60 gallons a week it really adds up. You can bear hug and carry the jugs when you fill them with 12-14gal each and carry them from truck down to the dock.

Pump that fits into the fill-hole of the jug:

https://www.amazon.com/Diesel-Fuel-Transfer-Pump-Submersible/dp/B01NAGVGN3/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1522522185&sr=8-13&keywords=fuel+transfer+pump

Jugs:

http://www.hazmatpac.com/product-details/id-15-gallon-blue-plastic-drum-un-461-b.html


Photo of me filling up 30gal in 5 minutes on my dock:

https://imgur.com/a/KL8FE

https://www.amazon.com/HFP-603-External-Inline-Replacement-Fuel/dp/B00FVE0OB0

Pump look like that?

Which brings me back to the original question: Should I install a centrifugal pump(1hp, $535) or a vane pump(3/4hp, lower flow, $950)?

There is no fuel pump in this bike. I see what I think is the relay as pictured in manual:

https://imgur.com/hNWM07v

No sign of a pig-tail to plug a new fuel pump in to, and I didn't notice any component with an empty socket that a new pump might plug in to - like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Caltric-HONDA-HURRICANE-CBR600F-CBR-600F/dp/B0146VMBYG

I couldn't find any cut wires from harness in under seat location but have 3 cut wires on front of bike with 22", all white. like lamp cord leads that are long enough to reach in fuel pump area...nice:

https://imgur.com/AniFnBt

https://imgur.com/muaLR4w

The color of the wires that were cut are white, green, and blue and no voltage w/ key on between any of them or ground. Wiring diagram shows 2 wires to fuel pump being green and blue. Am I on the wrong trail here?

I did get it to run by tying up the fuel line and filling it from a bottle. I could see it rise in filter. I kept filling and blowing - yes, by mouth, the fuel into carbs. I figured if float valves were working at some point I wouldn't be able to fill any more which was correct. Bike fired up w/ choke and will run on choke - 3/4-1/2 choke but won't rev and didn't seem to be running on all 4 cyls. I am familiar with pulling float covers, float and checking pin and seat and checking . cleaning jets. Do you all think that this is a logical next step or should I try to run w/ proper fuel pressure - which is what exactly? Thanks.

Edit: Engine is for a crosskart project.

See: https://www.amazon.com/CUSTONEPARTS-Electric-Intank-Module-Assembly/dp/B073SRQKSL

Notice how the sock for the pickup sits below the actual pump? It doesn't have to run out of fuel for the pump to be exposed to air (in this particular case). Also in what vehicle is the pump after the filter? Genuinely curious.

Yea it's one that screws onto the gas tank and is designed for it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IWCP7XC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_vzzXDb77NBMAZ

Had this problem a couple of weeks ago. I thought it was the o-ring but there was actually a small crack on top of the thing. I used epoxy to seal it and it hasn't leaked since.

This would probably fix your problem tho
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FKA8DIK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VWxIDb0MH5YDR

Best bang for your buck is this stuff

Ten whole feet of it. Clear so you can easily see when fuel reaches the carb.

Also, use 1/4" metal hose clamps. Such as these.

Finally, please save yourself a lot of hassle and use a quality in line fuel filter. The best is the Wix 33001

I hope this helps you out! Happy flying

Magic fluids that might stop the leak exist... but if I were the buyer I don't know that such a "fix" would satisfy me. Expect a spirited negotiation.

There's a rollover valve but a 1/4" tube will go right by it. It's pretty slow (~2 mins/L) so a pump helps. They are available for purchase:

https://www.amazon.com/Gasoline-Transfer-Gastapper-Equipment-Vehicles/dp/B00QSPU0NS

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2mGeb9s6yFE

It's the check valve that has failed

The check valve is on the fuel pump. It's job is to not allow fuel to leak backwards into the fuel tank.

When you're trying to start the jeep, after it has been sitting, there's no fuel pressure in the fuel line. The fuel pressure has to be a certain pressure to start and run the engine.

That's why it doesn't start the first time, it's building pressure.

You can test this by turning the key on/off a couple times, to prime the fuel pump and build pressure up, then start it

Or, check the fuel pressure on the rail

You can buy a rebuild kit for your fuel pump, but you're better off buying a whole new unit.

Don't, and I can't emphasize this enough, cheap out on the replacement unit. If you do, you'll end right back in your situation a year later.

Delphi FG1353 Fuel Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBI3H7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EsHODbW6XATQD

https://www.amazon.com/Spectra-Premium-SP8043M-Module-Assembly/dp/B00LPIRKUY

The install is really easy. Take out the back seats, opens the panel with four screws, take out the old one and put in the new one. Let the car idle for a few minutes to get comfortable with it

Actually, I lied - I got it off Amazon.

I had a similar situation, and I too thought it was the gas cap. It ended up being the Fuel Vapor Leak Detection pump (believe it or not). The DME code I got was a 3220 DMTL, and a 3221 DMTL, which is the Hex code my program gives me. P1434 and P1447 are the relative DTC codes if that's how your reader shows it.

On my 2011 335i, it is located driver side rear, behind the wheel and next to the exhaust. I ended up buying the part on amazon and replacing myself. Probably took 40 minutes from start to finish, not knowing exactly what I was doing.

Hope this points you in a helpful direction!

http://www.amazon.com/Delphi-FG0938-Fuel-Module/dp/B008NAGQHK

is this a scam? advance auto's cheapest full assembly for my car is 800 bucks..