Best automotive fuel system parts according to redditors

We found 223 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive fuel system parts. We ranked the 164 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Automotive carburetors & parts
Automotive replacement fuel system electronic speed governors
Automotive fuel & water separators
Automotive fuel injection parts
Automotive fuel pumps & accessories
Automotive fuel tanks & accessories
Automotive replacement fuel glow plug indicators
Automotive replacement fuel glow plug kits
Automotive replacement fuel lines
Automotive replacement fuel thorttle bodies
Automotive replacement fuel throttle body spacers & adapters
Automotive fuel system fittings

Top Reddit comments about Automotive Replacement Fuel System Equipment:

u/UmbrellaCommittee · 17 pointsr/Cartalk

That's a broken vacuum fitting. The vacuum line diagram for that motor shows the Evap. Canister Purge Valve in that location, and the pictures match.

Since the part that's broken is the fitting on the solenoid, you'll have to replace it. It looks like there's just one screw holding it on; that should be an easy fix.

[EDIT] I just saw that you broke off both of the lines going into that part. Your local auto parts store will have the right diameter line to replace what you need to there. Just bring it in with you and they'll be able to match it.

A quick short term solution would be to cap off the broken vacuum lines. Your fuel economy will suffer, but you'll regain engine performance.

u/bentripin · 8 pointsr/tdi

Those are gasoline nozzles that have been incorrectly installed on diesel pumps, usually an ignorant service worker.. those largely got fixed when VW/Audi/BMW/Merc all started putting misfuel adapters on auto diesels.. tho a few remote locations might not care, I know of one in Limon CO and Ive been avoiding it forever now.

One of these adapters are good to carry, the'll take care of wrong nozzles if your in a pinch and cant find anywhere else.. also good for adding fuel additives too.

u/adoptagreyhound · 6 pointsr/preppers

Maybe it's time for a Wi-Fi connected oil tank gauge. No affiliation or experience with this one - just the first result when I looked for one.

u/erikreynolds · 6 pointsr/Connecticut

A few of my friends have gotten a WiFi Oil Gauge on Amazon that seems to work well. I have not personally tested it, but I have heard good things.

u/leroy_sunset · 6 pointsr/Volvo

Just replace the FPS by yourself. I did it and it was easy, following the excellent writeup in this thread:

You can buy the part from amazon, $56 -

As for Volvo not recalling this identical part on every car? Welcome to Volvo. They don't recall shit. Millions of Volvos have clogged/leaking sunroof drains, stemming from poor design. Volvo straight up refuses to address the issue and has fought a class-action lawsuit tooth and nail.

u/PeanutbutterSamich · 4 pointsr/cycling

tightening your headset wont fix your "problem", its a function of the geometry of the fork and frame. tightening the headset will just cause the bearing & races to wear faster.

a steering stabilizer or this will help you out

u/overflowing_garage · 4 pointsr/motorcycles
u/alldanknugs · 3 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

ball valve with a 45* angle on it so the cans dump and also an adapter to fit the 1/4" NPT of the T and the 1/4" flare thread from the ball valve.

Can tapper:

(remove the schrader valve on the side you use and also the ball in the inside as well.)

Ball valves:

(I had to file down the end of the ballvalve where the adapter fits on because at first it was only held on by one thread. Making the ball valve shorter allowed it to fit inside the adapter deeper and make contact with more threads)


(take a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the unnecessary internals that would reduce the flow rate.)

I got the T splitter from ebay. I found one with male 1/4" NPT on the bottom and female 1/4" NPT on each side.

u/DAWTSF · 3 pointsr/londonontario

Get yourself one of these. Problem solved.

u/LennyNero · 3 pointsr/Diesel

Just a note: you can now replace just the amplifier board inside the FICM. Dorman 904-229 is available from Amazon for $110. It takes about 15 minutes with torx drivers to swap out.

  1. Remove small cover plate on back of FICM.
  2. Remove 4 power transfer screws under that cover.
  3. Remove screws on the front side of the FICM.
  4. Remove the front cover of the FICM
  5. Remove the two black shock pads
  6. Dig the glue out from inside the screws holding the amplifier board in.
  7. Remove screws holding in amplifier board.
  8. Install new amplifier board.
  9. Assembly is reverse of disassembly.
u/PlzNotThePupper · 3 pointsr/projectcar

That go on the fuel pump or the lines? I matched up the two pumps when replacing at could’ve sworn the looked identical but maybe I overlooked it.

Edit: are these what you’re referring to?

u/dargo67 · 3 pointsr/longisland

I bought this a year or two ago and am really liking it, although its a little pricy. It hooks up to your phone and sends email/texts when you’re low.

u/SherSlick · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

Did a little googling and found this thing:

I honestly am thinking on the path of a basic sender in the tank that gives a level reading via variable resistance. Then connect this to something like a RaspberryPi to interface with HomeAssistant.

But I have not worked with HomeAssistant so I am unsure what kinds of info it can take/handle.

u/learntorv · 3 pointsr/RVLiving

For black/gray water offloading, I'd look at a sewer bladder vs. moving the whole rig. I had one made and it comes in about 100g. They can make them larger, though. Check it out here:


For bringing water back, you can use an AQUATANK2 bladder. They come in a variety of sizes.


As mentioned, getting A/C is going to be the hardest nut to crack. My toy hauler has 2 x 40g gas tanks and a built-in Onan 5500. It supposedly uses 1/2g / hour of gas but I haven't actually measured/checked. We don't tend to run it 24x7 unless we really need to so a tank of fuel lasts us a while. Filling from 5g containers into the toy hauler is pretty miserable, but I just found this gas can fuel pump that I'm hoping to get + try soon. For your needs, I might see if I could get an auxiliary tank so you could refill at one go.

u/Automobills · 2 pointsr/Edmonton

I've never had to deal with patching a fuel tank, but there's got to be a cheaper alternative to replacing the tank.

This might work

u/sismit · 2 pointsr/answers
u/nuffced · 2 pointsr/Snowblowers

Carbs are really cheap on Amazon. I have purchased several for under $20 each! I also invested in this worth every penny!

u/verywise · 2 pointsr/ender3

I picked up mine from a RC hobby store, and it's branded for RC stuff:

T. A. Emerald Performance Plus 4, TAE4200

I don't really have a preference for this brand. I'd just get something like this, since they are all pretty similar:

u/pharmaconaut · 2 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

I used a set up like this when I open blasted, the ball valves create a very good seal without tape, ratcheted down tightly with a wrench.
You'll need a inverted flare adapter to use these valves, to convert the male end to NPT threads.

I would always place a filter before the material, to filter out potential paint particles (heard claims that it scrapes paint into the butane) but I never found any paint, and I used both coffee filters and 25 micron mean screens.

I liked can tappers, as it provides a good deal more pressure for open blasting. I used less butane.

u/--seaker-- · 2 pointsr/Jeep

They have the fancy Mopar one with the Jeep logo. It isn't cheap!

There are cheaper ones out there, but none look as cool as the Mopar one, IMHO...

u/eobanb · 2 pointsr/citybike

This one is a very cheap M-Wave one, $10 on Amazon. But so far it works great.

u/sphildreth · 2 pointsr/f150

Sorry thought the link in the title would work more pictures here. I purchased this replacement.

u/Fartin_Gary · 2 pointsr/Wrangler

I got one of these, they self key. I also got one of these, which need tumblers installed.

For the gas cap, stay the hell away from dealerships to key it. One wouldn't do it unless I ordered the cap through them, and the other wanted $80 and said they couldn't guarantee they could key it correctly. I went to a reputable locksmith and it took 20 minutes and cost $15. I'd also recommend this, and I used silicone lube in the gas cap tumbler since it would stick at first. Haven't had an issue since.

edit: I linked to the wrong locking gas cap.

u/KnightOwlForge · 2 pointsr/Blacksmith

Most regulators that are worth anything do not have gauges on them out of the box. You have to buy a gauge and replace the brass plug with it. Super easy and cheap.

This is the regulator I bought... Notice the brass plug where the gauge is inserted.

To answer you OP, propane hoses are sold with different connectors on them... I bought the hose with the proper fittings, but if you must, you can buy an adapter. Make sure everything is taped up with YELLOW thread tape.

u/wh0ligan · 1 pointr/Justrolledintotheshop

Or you could buy the form the same place you get the new pump.GM/Chryco clips.

u/Fazookus · 1 pointr/Volkswagen

And I think TDI owners should have one of these for the hopefully rare occasion when the only diesel you can get is from the big commercial truck nozzle... I got mine after and I was able to squeeze some into my car but it was an annoying process.

u/Lemus89 · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

the steel line looks similar to the right hand side of line "C" in this image

It measures 5/16" external diameter not counting the ridges.

The stock nylon line also measured 5/16" external diameter, and the new line is of similar dimensions. I tried microwaving a bowl of water to soak the line but was a no go. Tomorrow im gonna try boiling on the stove and heating the end up to soften so itll stretch, if not I'll ask my uncle's if they have a kit similar to THIS at their shop I can borrow for an hour

u/jwatttt · 1 pointr/CannabisExtracts

here is my parts list lol i think this would be a better idea splitter. can-tap. going from the splitter to my glacier top. and camico adapter. and ball valves. Does this look adequate or which part do I need to be able to press the valve depressor?

u/nycman123 · 1 pointr/cars

> Is that a car thing or a Euro thing?

I think it has to do more with the the smaller tanks in these cars. It would fill up too fast and foam would get everywhere. BMW actually gives owners an adapter to use commercial pumps (similar to this:, but then the auto click-off doesn't work anymore, so if you're not paying attention, you will get showered with diesel lol

u/BoomMichaelScoon · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Depending on your bike you might have an open hole into your engine and it could get annoying swapping the brass tubes and hoses between carbs.

My bike has 4 small holes right by the intake ports on the engine that you screw the brass pipes onto. I have a 4 gauge synchronizer, so it's easy to just keep an eye on the gauges and adjust. My sync took me 20 mins.

However if I only had 2 gauges, I'd have to plug each hole as I swap to the next cylinder to check its vacuum.

I bought this sync tool:

Gotta say I'm pleased with it. I had the 2 gauge one from another bike before.

You can always sync 2 carbs with a 4 gauge, but it might be a pita to do it vice versa

u/AgnuWrites · 1 pointr/Cartalk

Found these, at least one size should fit the external diameter of the stem. I'll replace that, fill up the master cylinder, check it, bleed the brakes, and let you guys know how it all went.

u/tahitiisnotineurope · 1 pointr/Multicopter

If one were to rinse the salt out with rc car electric motor spray and they seem smooth, one could run them. I use a very light ball bearing oil with a needle applicator. I would put a very tiny drop on each of the bearings and wipe away any excess.

edit: I changed the links to amazon because reasons

u/MentalStampede · 1 pointr/Volvo
u/iBody · 1 pointr/Cartalk

Not many shops would do it because it has a higher probability to fail and the hour it would take then to make the fitting would come close to that compete $400 fuel pump. Here's a page where a guy uses a caulk gun and a flair tool to press in the fittings without buying the $100 tool to do so Advance is famous for selling universal crap to keep inventory down, I'd bet that pump is shared in a car or two so they sell it with the doorman nylon fuel repair line to keep people happyish. Using the repair fittings may or may not work depending on how well the person doing the splicing does the work. Personally I'd buy the complete assembly and keep the headace to a minimum, but if I had the tool I'd give it a go to save a few bucks. Here's the tool in question

u/Tecknik · 1 pointr/Volkswagen

Your VW dealer should be able to sell you the adapter. I bought one when I had my '09 Jetta TDI. It was less than $10. Comes in a capped plastic container with a pair of rubber glove.

Here it is for $12 shipped.

u/Plutoid · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Yeah, if you can make a reasonably accurate gauge, go ahead and do it. I paid something like $65 for mine, a dial type.

u/alphaecho4386 · 1 pointr/Diesel

I had this problem on my 6.0.

less than $100 and it was good to go. No reprogramming or anything, as the main control module is still good. The powersupply on the FICM dies after a while. Easy swap out.

Video of a swap -

u/09RaiderSFCRet · 1 pointr/Yamaha

Like this maybe?

u/paseo1997 · 1 pointr/tdi

Buy this before going on any long trips to avoid fuel nozzle compatibility issues
TDI Diesel Fuel Nozzle Adapter

u/ceresia · 1 pointr/Toyota

I would browse amazon and such and see what reviews state, like these:

You can easily weed out the idiots of reviews that didn't follow directions or clean the surface and prep correctly, that does make all the difference.

I would hope you aren't inside the tank as you are under the car repairing, any repairs needed from inside I would highly recommend the replacement tank instead, but if you meant what else should you look for while under the car? You can always look at the gas tank strap and ensure it isn't damaged or screwed up in any way. Also if you do end up replacing the tank then get some undercoating spray in a can and after installed and tested then take the strap down, spray coating where the strap wass and while still wet replace strap, then coat the rest of the tank thoroughly, it makes a world of difference and helps bind the strap from moving as well.

u/theicecapsaremelting · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Perhaps something like this? Those are pretty standard hose fittings available at most auto supply stores or even Menards. Look at the hose itself and look for the size. 3/8" or whatever if it is printed on there and ask them for that size hose clamp. If you can find a zip tie, you could probably even secure the hoses temporarily and drive the car to the store.

That's really all you think you need? That would be just hilarious if all you needed was a 50 cent plastics part, and that ass hat is suggesting that you scrap your fucking car.

u/Z5D5B5 · 1 pointr/Generator

Yea it's one that screws onto the gas tank and is designed for it.

u/ka-tet · 1 pointr/Blacksmith

I use this one paired with this gauge and this connector, and love it.

u/tearjerkingpornoflic · 1 pointr/Fixxit

For poking out crud that blocks them up? I didn't say to put them in a drill. As long as you use one smaller than the hole it is fine, you can also use the back of it where it is solid. The jets are made of brass and won't fall apart from poking crud out. Here is a pro carb cleaner. it also has metal pokers. Here is another Pretty much all of them are like that and work fine.

u/scoobasid · 1 pointr/homeautomation

This is what you want. Dead simple to install yourself in minutes, customer support is great and it has been reliable. Note that the readings are not very accurate when tank is filled, but that’s because it is tuned to be more accurate as tank empties.

Smart Oil Gauge

u/maalth · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Who in their right mind would cut wiring off the vent control valve? That is part of the emission system and depending on the state, the car wouldn't pass inspection. If I'm right, this is a link for what you need for P0449:

Here's the link for info on P0452:


Suggestion is to replace the solenoid first.