Best automotive greases according to redditors
We found 267 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive greases. We ranked the 73 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 267 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive greases. We ranked the 73 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
If anything you have says food grade, you're most likely set.
This stuff is the best, and it'll last you forever..
http://www.amazon.com/Dow-Corning-Molykote-Grease-Lubricant/dp/B0141NIS8M
This stuff also works, but washes away more quickly.
http://www.amazon.com/McGlaughlin-Oil-Petrol-Gel-Lubricant-4oz/dp/B01G5Y9Y7E
It's for sure expensive for so seemingly few applications, but you can really use this stuff everywhere. Doorknobs, squeaky hinges, tools, bicycles, etc...
As for the frequency of cleaning...
Since you are all stainless, it makes cleaning frequency kind of a contentious topic... The Brewer's Association currently advocates for every two weeks, but through commercial applications to hobby level, with stainless/vinyl contact, up to a four week interval can be permissible.. Especially on a direct draw system such as yours.
What would probably be most convenient, would be to clean every keg change using a little hand pump bottle like this:
http://www.micromatic.com/beer-line-cleaning-kits-and-equipment/deluxe-beer-line-cleaning-ck-1100
Super easy to use.. Remove the faucet and coupler, pack the lines with the cleaning solution and soak for 45 minutes. Use the leftover chemical from the soak to brush the faucets and couplers clean.. Rinse, reassemble, and your done.
You do have another option...
Some people opt to never clean, and instead just replace the length of line every few months. The coupler and faucets would still need to soaked and brushed, but using John Guest (push-to-connect) terminations, changing lines becomes fairly trivial.
A $25 dollar 100ft roll of barrier tubing would last you several replacements, and it will remain cleaner longer. The big drawback with barrier is that it more susceptible to kinking than vinyl is.. But it is better for the beer, and perfectly suited to your application. And you won't need any overpriced, questionable quality cleaning equipment... Just unplug the line, coil it up, and soak it.
https://www.freshwatersystems.com/p-2502-john-guest-female-adapter-bspp-516-x-58-bspp.aspx
These fittings would attach to your couplers and and shanks, and just as before, you would use ~6ft of 3/16" ID barrier to get about 12psi of restriction. I don't know this website, but Accuflex's Bevlex 235 is the stuff I'd recommend.
http://www.birdmanbrewing.com/accuflex-bev-seal-ultra-barrier-tubing-3-16-id-100ft-free-shipping/?gclid=CIDbk8OPj80CFUpahgodKNYITA
What's also cool about using a quick connect line, is that it simplifies pouring a larger range of carbonation levels and styles.
Say you want to put something on with a higher volume of Co2, let's say 3.0 v/v... To maintain carbonation at 38º, now you need you set your gauge to 17 psi. Your flow rate will now cause turbulent pouring since you only have ~12 psi of restriction.. A net 5 psi positive pressure will pour too fast. How can we fix it?
Just plug in a 8' length of line instead of 6', and you've balanced out the system.
Or maybe you have a barleywine or stout that you don't want to drink at 38ºF... At 2.5 v/v and 38ºF, you need about 12 psi of straight Co2. That same beer stored at 50ºF would need 18 psi to maintain 2.5 v/v, or it would de-gas and foam like crazy. With that badass controller you bought, adjusting the serving temperature is an option available to you.
You might be seeing flow control (restrictor) style faucets more prevalent these days.. As beer styles come out with greater ranges of carbonation, bars and restaurants can't just hack their system open to add/subtract a few feet of line, but the system still requires the restriction be dialed in to operate efficiently. So they restrict at the faucets because they can't restrict at the lines. Pretty neat..
Junky establishments won't care sometimes, and will potentially let the beer go flat using a lower (incorrect) pressure to get more manageable flow rate... Basically saying F you to the people that worked hard to make it. It's whack.
Enjoy your setup... I get super excited seeing people do this stuff right! That setup you built is going to make some people very happy.
If you enjoy tinkering then the Folger Tech i3 2020 is a pretty good printer and you can read my review of it here.
Get some Super Lube or other appropriate grease to pack the bearings with so that they don't fail on you like mine eventually did.
You will want to get a good set of metric hex keys as the vast majority of the screws are metric hex heads.
A soldering iron, 16g or better primary wire, and some solder are also a must as you will have to solder the leads to the heated bed so it can be connected to the RAMPS board.
Personally if I was to go back and build mine again I would toss the Mk2 heater PCB and use a Mk3 aluminum heated bed with a sheet of PEI on top from the start. It would have saved me both money and time troubleshooting both adhesion issues and the majorly warped heater PCB.
If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask.
Enough to last the next generation or two.
My recommendation: Super Lube. It's cheap, and it will work on anything. With vaseline, the petroleum will damage certain types of o-rings. Astro-glide is just not designed for this type of application either.
Lots of people also really love Nyogel. Here's a good CPF thread about greases and lubes.
Lithium Grease, you can find this at your local hardware store.
or
http://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10533-Lithium-Grease/dp/B004X70LZA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394548507&sr=8-2&keywords=lithium+grease
white lithium grease.
ps; most gun oils are just normal machine oils with a couple of additives. alright for what they sell them as, but in this case you want something that will stick to the bits. WLG is the stuff they use on the moving bits of flight sticks from the factory, as well as stuff like the moving parts in any optical drive, some childrens toys where the lubrication will never be exposed to the light of day, etc.
something like this used sparingly, but with full coverage of the contact surfaces, will sort things out nicely.
cheers.
Make sure to clean the slide pins and their holes well. Then apply brake grease on the pins and in the hole. That should solve the issue.
This is what I use
Superlube
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000XBH9HI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484767208&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=super+lube+synthetic+grease&dpPl=1&dpID=31-xhQ8JfAL&ref=plSrch
$5 a tube. Safe for incidental food contact. Should last you for years, unless you have like 500 lights or something.
Wipe off gunk on thread with microfiber cloth.
Apply a tiny dab.
Work it in by tightening and loosening a few times.
Wipe off excess.
https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10533-Lithium-Grease/dp/B004X70LZA
You can probably get it cheaper at your local Walmart or auto parts store.
Standard WD-40 is not a lubricant. WD-40 displaces water and acts as a degreaser. It will work as a lubricant for a short period, but once it evaporates you'll have no lubrication.
The stuff you linked is a silicone lube that's simply under the WD-40 brand, it is not WD-40 in the traditional sense. As it's a spray, it's not the sort of lube you really want in a bearing; what you want is a really light silicone or lithium grease:
http://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-Synthetic-Syncolon-Lubricant/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421952488&sr=8-1&keywords=light+grease that stays inside the bearing.
I will give you my background before my opinions. As everyone has different goals, opinions, and experiences.
I got my printer near the end March of this year. I have something like 2500m of filament run though it, and no idea how much print time.
When I received my printer, my test prints failed and I was pissed. But this community helped improve my Cura settings and started producing usable parts. I then went nuts and printed out a BUNCH of mods. This is by far my most favorite thing. There's always something I can print to improve the quality of the prints.
THe down side is I went too far and got to a point where I couldn't produce anything of quality. So, 2 weeks of tweeking and researching later I'm printing in PETG with beautiful quality and very minimal visible layers.
My most recent project in PETG:
http://i.imgur.com/sVf7S2D.jpg?1
So, now to answer your question...
> How do you like your Maker Select?
I love it. It allowed me to buy a cheaper printer (One of the cheapest at the time @ $350) that produced amazing results. It also has upgrades you can purchase or print to improve the quality, so investing smaller amounts over time to make it better and better. I highly recommend it to anyone who is starting because it does require tweaking which forces you to learn and understand how exactly 3d printers work. A major plus was that this community has a lot of Maker Select users for support, which was a MAJOR plus for me.
As of today, I've purchased the following upgrades:
So, in the last ~3 months I've spent an additional $264... Oh god, don't tell my wife! All are totally not necessary, mind you. The only thing I'd 100% recommend you do are print out the following to mods:
DiiiCooler along with buying the 50mm blower fan. There are cheaper options out there, I just wanted it faster so I bought it through Amazon to get free 2 day shipping.
z-Brace - This is key, and will run you maybe $15 worst case scenario to get enough M4 screws and the threaded rods.
Edit: Forgot a couple more things I bought.
That's another $59, so $323... I have a problem. again, 95% of this is NOT NECESSARY. I'm just addicted to modding.
White Lithium Grease
They look okay for a bit longer to me. (from what I can see on the outside pad)
Here's how I go about with pad replacement intervals. I pull the pads out to see how they're doing where I can see the whole pad. I check for things like cracks that go down to the backing plate or of there's a chunk or something missing out of them. After that I check to see how much actual pad is left and if they're okay to keep on the vehicle or if I should get new brake pads. I use what's called a Tread Depth Gauge which I recommend everyone have at home. It's a cheap tool you can get at any auto parts store. While measuring brake pads if it's at 3/32 or below I replace the brake pads, or if the pad squealer is clearly making contact with the rotor. But if they're okay and while they're out I lube up the pad backing plate where it contacts on the piston or bracket, the sides of the pad where it sits on the bracket shims, and the slide pins. I use this stuff from AGS called Sil-Glyde. Works great. Just make sure not to get it on the actual pad itself.
But again with your original question from what I can see they look like they're getting there but okay to still use. If you have any other questions feel free to ask :)
Links are fine.
Nyogel is good or you could just use this, it works just fine too.
I have a tube from 2003-ish that I'm still using, its basically a lifetime supply.
This is what I use. I can't think of anything better. Permatex 24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant, 8 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018PSASU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AOgOyb0Y4T5SS
Gears need grease because it clings to them, oil will just fling off. Look for: SuperLube PTFE Synthetic or Lithium Moly grease.
Any dielectric grease or white grease should do the trick. Plus you can find it in almost any home improvement or auto parts store.
SuperLube
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_HJlwDbSZTXJPN
NyoGel is great but expensive. SuperLube is great but cheap...
Is it terrible that I use this stuff to lubricate my lights? Granted, my most expensive is a Convoy S2+.
It's a thinner oil lubricant that's non-reactive with the plastic and often mixed with Krytox GPL 205, a grease lubricant. It's the "ultimate lube" for MX switch contact points (aside from clicky switch stems) according to some people at Geekhack, Deskthority, and some Korean sites. I recently got some as a gift and will try them out with my pseudo Ergo Clears in which I'll be using 67g Korean springs.
Of course, some people don't really see a difference between it and a cheap tube of Superlube. Some actually prefer Superlube and others think the Krytox is a little better, but not worth the premium.
Lube every stab, even if you have only basic lubes. Safe to use and available locally (especially auto parts stores) would be super lube or white lithium grease.
I was motivated by the recent thread with the X rated pics of the frame, so this weekend I spent quite a lot of time inspecting the bike everywhere with a flashlight for rust (owned less than 1 year). As someone who leaves a puddle on the floor after a workout, it only made sense that had to leave impact on steel. While Peloton suggests you to wipe down the bike after a ride, the places where most people would clean, such as the large smooth surface areas, may keep the bike looking good but are actually not problem areas. The problem is everywhere you miss--seat bolt and the threads on the frame, connectors, the gap to the shaft on the left pedal, the bolt and opening where the cover on the right meets the frame, underside of frame where the welds are, outer pedal threads, metal screws, etc. For the seat handle, not only were the threads in bad shape, but also I could see rust on the front and back of the handle where it meets the bolt. Basically, the more I looked for rust, the more I found. Left untreated for a few years, I think it would have evolved into bigger problems down the road.
I used Ospho on many of the painted parts and the bolts and let it sit for a day. Getting to some parts required something like a toothpick or a dental tool with the paper towel scrap to scrub. Ospho (HD equivalent here) makes rust inert and preps it for painting, then used a touch up brush and applied some black rustoleum paint to the painted areas. Then I used white lithium grease(spray) to protect all the moving parts and bolts, and even into the seat handle. To protect the underbelly of the frame where the welds are, I'm tempted to apply some stickier grease like Red and Tacky to completely seal those areas from sweat and air after now that the paint has dried, because it is not an area that can be easily and properly cleaned every time. Going forward I'll be looking it over much more frequently.
I run through a can of grease and have to refill my oil can (straight 30 weight) so much more often than my WD40 can. Nothing wrong with WD40, but for most common applications there's a better choice than WD40.
I had a problem like this on an old Portastudio.
I put some white lithium grease on the friction-prone portions of the head assembly. That is, any surface that slid against another surface, barring the head itself.
It took some finagling to get it in all the right spots. Then I had to manually move the assembly back and forth, but it eventually started engaging/disengaging normally.
The biggest mistake I see mechanics do when changing the brake pads is how they deal with the brake caliper 'slide pins.' The slide pins being clean, rust free, and lubricated with the proper lubricant is very important to longevity of the pads.
What I see most mechanics do is either leave the slide pins alone or just use a petroleum-based 'brake grease' for the slide pins when they relube them. This will not do well, because the slide pins need a silicone-based caliper grease that will not eat the protective rubber boots that cover the slide pins. Many brake greases say "rubber safe" on the label when they actually are not (example Permatex Green Ultra brake grease). 3M's Silicone Paste is great for these pins, as well as Motorcraft XG3-A. Either one will do. Many times the boots will be swollen (due to petroleum grease eating away at it)
Also make sure he bleeds your brakes thoroughly to get that old dirty brake fluid out of the system. Many mechanics not do this when doing a cheap quick brake job because it means cracking open the bleeder screws (and possibly breaking them!) and dealing with that associated headache. Old fluid absorbs water and water rusts your brake lines from the inside out, as well as cause premature brake fade during heated stops.
It might be wise to also bring him the brake pad hardware (associated clips and shims) to go along with the pads and rotors.
Finally, find out what the pad manufacturer recommends for breaking in the brakes (bedding the brakes). Doing this is pretty important to proper smooth operation throughout its life.
Silicone lube is good for rubber.
AGS SG8 Lubricant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KXLR5E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hZf-AbKC79YQV
Hi. As both someone who uses Froglube on firearms, and as someone who techs AEG gearboxes...
It won't be harmful, but really isn't ideal. Specifically, froglube CLP isn't good, far too thin. The paste - well, if you properly treat all of the metal with the heat treatment, it'll be okay, but I still think a proper gear lubricant is in order.
You have to realize that while they are both "guns" - an AEG is far more a gearbox than a gun. You need gearbox lubricant not gun lubricant.
I highly suggest for seals and the like - a solid silicone lubricant. Barrels and mags - a teflon lubricant with alcohol application, so it dries but still provides lubrication, without getting on bbs.
For the gearbox? Go with Super lube.
WD-40 is not a lubricant, I use mobil grease, but this would be just fine ( see link) or stop at a auto store and get a multi purpose grease.
Super Lube 21030 Translucent White Color 3 oz. Automotive Accessories https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Yk22Cb96K4F0F
My gas toolbox:
Teflon Tape
Replacement gaskets for every fitting in service (tank-to-regulator, and all keg gaskets, beer nut / shank washers if doing faucets)
Extra tubing for gas and beverage
Extra barb-swivel nut fittings
Spray bottle with soapy water or starsan to check for leaks
Channel-lock wrench x 2 (many brass fittings are just threadded so you may need to hold one thing in place while threading or un-threading something else.
Nylon washers if using MFL/FFL connectors (I recommend this as opposed to barb).
Hose Clamps or Oketer Clamps and crimp tool
Faucet Wrench (if you're working with shanks - you do not want to wreck a new shank with a pair of pliers)
Extra picnic taps
Extra QDs
Keg Lube Generic Equivalent: It doesn't need to say Keg on it, it needs to be food grade. Do not mix silicone-based lubricant with silicone gaskets, it will kinda melt them. I have this stuff at the moment
​
I can tell you from experience these work great. I also put a little bit of Superlube Synthetic Grease in mine to slow down the wear and tear.
https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-51004-Synthetic-Viscosity/dp/B000UKUHXK/ plus https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/
Mix it to a desireable thickness.
I believe something like this will work. Just a light coating will do.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000XBH9HI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467894716&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=plastic+lube&dpPl=1&dpID=31-xhQ8JfAL&ref=plSrch
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> If indeed you are not a professional yourself, I'm sure you'll understand why the professional's recommendations would probably be more persuasive to the average reader.
I've been using the Permatex Ceramic brake lube on all of my stuff lately. It's expensive but it seems to work well. I put that on the pins, and over/under the contact pads, then use the red disk-brake-quiet on the back of the pads.
Most decent pads come with little packets of grease you can use, or you can buy a big bottle of the same stuff. Example:
https://smile.amazon.com/Permatex-24125-Ceramic-Extreme-Lubricant/dp/B0018PSASU/
Having struggled with more rusted brake caliper hardware and rusted on drums than I care to talk about, I'm definitely in the school of mo-grease. This is my current favorite.
I would apply a thin film of white lithium grease. You can buy it almost anywhere.
https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10533-Lithium-Grease/dp/B004X70LZA
I second Super Lube.
I do, however, use the silicone compounds on the compression train. Silicone grease is a little bit lighter than the synthetic, leads to less of the "suction" effect.
For high speed setups: Oil
For much more longevity: Grease
A quality white lithium grease works great for the drive train as well.
I suggest avoiding nearly all "airsoft" rebranded grease/oils, they're heavily marked up/ repackaged industrial standards.
The same product on Amazon, with shipping to Australia.
I use Inox MX6, which you can get from Jaycar or BCF, at the recommendation of someone on here a few months back. It works well.
MTB have used the WD-40 lithium grease spraycans in some of their videos, so they at least don't have a problem with using aerosols. I've also seen some people suggest silicon sprays, like this one.
Regular wd40 is not a lubricant, you have to break that habit. It's designed to clean electronics and rid them of water
White lithium is what you want
Wd40 even makes aerosol can of it
WD-40 Specialist Protective White Lithium Grease Spray with SMART STRAW SPRAYS 2 WAYS, 10 OZ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L35DAWQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rxiMDbSJYX9XC
Yes... in fact, it appears that WD-40 now makes one with their awesome flip-top straw cans!
https://www.amazon.com/Specialist-Lithium-Grease-Spray-White/dp/B00MIWVKPM
Sorry I was not talking about their oil I was talking about Mobil one synthetic grease. Like https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-Synthetic-Grease-oz-102481/dp/B00U1TLXC4
Most (if not all) greases are just too thick for bearings, you need something much thinner for bearings to run well on. A lot of people (myself included) think 10 weight nano oil seems to be just about the best, Some even prefer the thinner 5 weight nano oil.
Daiwa Reel Oil and food grade mineral oil(food safe option) are two more very common recommendations. Also just about any gun lube would be adequate as well. I'd personally recommend Hornady One-Shot Dry Lube as well, it's great stuff. Stay away from any organic based oils such as olive, vegetable, peanut, etc... as they'll tend to gum up and become rancid. Same thing with W(Water) D(Displacement) 40 as it's not a lube but a displacer of water and will also gum up the action of your knife.
Greases are better utilized on knives that run on washers, such as a Sebenza. I have personal experience with Tri-Flow Synthetic Grease and would definitely recommend it for some washer knives that seem to run a little better with a light application of grease such as the aforementioned Sebenza.
It would help if you could identify the specific joints that are the noisiest. It's likely a combination of your rear shock, your swingarm's connection to the frame, and the subframe joints. Sometimes you can't do much with older bikes short of replacing the parts, but cleaning and greasing it should help you.
WD40 is simply a water displacement. It doesn't grease anything, it just helps remove the water, and it's especially helpful if youre trying to unscrew or pull out something and it's stuck, as it will temporarily lubricate what you spray it on.
If you want to get rid of squeaks in the joints, either get some spray lubricant(like a silicone based one, something like this) or you can tear the bike down and apply grease(just get a tub of it and it'll last you years, something like this) to a lot of the moving parts. The rear shock is something you definitely don't wanna be taking apart unless you know what you're doing, so try just putting grease on the outsides of the joints or getting spray lubricant and spraying it in the joints.
I recommend the grease method, as the silicone spray often doesn't do a long term job and it isn't nearly as water proofing. Try to find some videos of how to take apart dirt bikes, and apply those concepts to your bike. Every bike is different, but if you watch some klx 125 teardown videos, you'll catch on. Pretty much you can take off everything except the rear shock/swingarm and still be able to put it back on easily.
https://www.amazon.com/Lubricant-Grease-Nyogel-50g-Tube/dp/B00W6KWK1Y seems in stock but I've used https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80345-White-Lithium-Grease/dp/B000HBNV58/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_lp_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9JBBKWHAVF09F98QKWYP in a pinch without issue
White lithium grease is generally the direction I go.
I followed a lube guide on here and lubed all my stabs with this lithium grease and it's been great. This stuff is super cheap and makes a world of difference.
This stuff expanded the rubber anti rattle sleeves on my pins and caused it to seize. Do not use. Spend the extra money and use silicone.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HBNV6W/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473264236&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=permatex+brake+grease&dpPl=1&dpID=51EWEeZ9GHL&ref=plSrch
If the rotor is rubbing against the caliper bracket it has a distinct metal on metal sound, however if the hub is walking out what you might be hearing is the inside of the tire rubbing against the rear shock absorber casing. Maybe it is more noticeable when wet? Look at the shocks absorber for rub marks and also look over the tire itself for rub marks. (If you see wear on the inside part of the tire tread, that is a clue that your hub is walking out and needs to be replaced).
The sound could also just be the bearings themselves being bad and grinding down, but not sure why moisture would affect it.
But since the noise goes away after touching the brake pedal, it is most likely a caliper not sliding correctly. This often happens after pads are replaced and people use the wrong lubricant on the caliper pins and/or the pads. The pads need a synthetic grease, the caliper pins need a silicon paste.
The oil is a little thin I prefer this one https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=pd_sim_328_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000XBH9HI&pd_rd_r=AHY72GK05GYKYYEFP4AY&pd_rd_w=9DpH3&pd_rd_wg=pbEUO&psc=1&refRID=AHY72GK05GYKYYEFP4AY
Can also mix them 30% oil 70% grease to get something that is a little easier to apply.
This is what I used. I clean my rails every few weeks and apply this to them.
https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=pd_sim_328_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=31-xhQ8JfAL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR120%2C160_&refRID=H3FTJJAS37BZQ08QAHTP
Hi, I want to try to build my first custom mechanical keyboard soon. I think I have everything sorted out, but I want to know if I'm making any mistakes. This is my part list:
I just used Super Lube on an old stick I'm tearing down and rebuilding. It works fine, although since I just did it I don't know yet how long it will last.
I personally just use silicone grease from home depot, but I've read great things about Super Lube.
Super Lube Grease and Oil
Simple bike maintenance you need a multitool with:
allen wrenches (metric 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm)
screwdrivers (flat, Phillips, and Torx T-25)
With that alone, you can do most minor bike maintenance. You SHOULD however also buy some lube for bolts, nuts, pivots and more. Almost anytime you take something apart that is not the chain, when putting it back on you want to lube it. I use the following:
https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519748163&sr=8-1&keywords=superlube
You also want chain lube. A must have if you want your drive train to last which is basic maintenance as well. You can buy a crap brush to clean it on a regular basis or a full blown kit.
Tire levers and a pump or compressor are also a must. There is always one reason or another why a tire will need to be removed.
Super lube
The EGR system is just a bunch of hoses. Look at the diagram on this page and check those hoses for brittleness, leaks, or cracks. Also check the check valves. Over time they can look like they are almost melting? It's hard to explain, but if you know what they are you'll know what I'm talking about when you see it. There's also an "L" shaped plastic hose that comes out of the crankcase. Check it. It has a tendency to explode. Not a big deal if it does, you just lost HP and MPG til it's fixed. Oh and you leak oil.
Look at this preventative maintenance guide that a guy on the Audi forums posted. Read through each of them to learn about the car and check for them while inspecting.
If you are into DIY stuff, check the [Audi DIY] (http://www.audidiy.com/b6a4.html) site. If you can't find it, google it. There's probably a writeup somewhere.
LPTs:
This car will cost you more money than you want in repairs and maintenance. If you like to DIY it's not too bad. I saved 700 dollars doing my own timing belt+water pump+ tensioners. I still spent 500 between tools and parts but the DIY made it cheaper.
That's all I can remember from my first post. If I remember anything else I'll add it in a new comment.
Hey another commentor made me look into it again. It seems like Super Lube (synthetic grease with PTFE/Teflon) (Amazon link) is what is recommended these days.
The other two I mentioned before have been used by a lot of people over the years and I haven't heard anything bad about them, but the folks at Prusa seem to be recommending Super Lube these days (links here and here).
FWIW, I use machine oil and I'm going to keep using machine oil. As the second link mentions, mixing lubricants can cause reactions between the old and the new stuff which can wreck your shit.
Hope this helped.
White lithium grease wont kill your orings, but many claim that it's a rather thick and stiff lube, thus not being optimal for plunger systems. For any other application it's fine. YMMV, but I generally also dislike it for this reason.
SuperLube synthetic grease is a favorite. Sticks well, great application range, durable. It's thinner than WL, but if it's too thick, my little trick to making it looser is to add a little bit of silicon oil and give it a good mix before applying it. Silicon oil btw is the grease you'll notice when you first open up your blasters; I found out when I emailed buzzbee and hasbro asking for what they use. It's very slick, and very thin. I find making use of both resulted in best of both worlds.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=twister_B01N5IYUDN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You can find this at your local hardware store. Stab rattle can also be caused by the quality of the stab and size of wire. If you can remove and/or replace them easily I highly recommend genuine cherry stabs with this lube. The thicker wires and plastic used really help to tighten things up. I'm going on at least a month strong and no resurgence of rattle.
I switched from Super Lube (which is great, I use it everywhere) to Permatex Ultra Engine Assembly Lube aka Red Lube of Love for my higher tooth-count ratchets. That stuff is extremely slick and sticky. Rats glide effortlessly, noticeably better than Super Lube. However, it is more quiet, so if you're the kind who feels or listens for the clicks you may not like it as much.
I haven't fixed those in particular, but a fat blob of o-ring compatible grease will keep most in place until assembly. For water o-rings I like Super Lube
I think the same machine oil you use for CNC will work, but I use sewing machine oil to lube the X and Y rods (couple drops) whenever they feel "dry" to the back of my finger:
https://www.amazon.com/4-oz-Sewing-Machine-Oil/dp/B000H8Q41Y
For Z-axis, I use PTFE synthetic grease (drops all along the Z axis) like this every... 6 months?:
https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI
Also, make sure the extruder gears aren't grinding/biting into the filament too much and getting filament poo poo buildup all over the gears.
Spare nozzle, hotend, thermistor (I've only had to replace a hotend once in 2 years and also because I made a dumb mistake).
Don't be afraid to ask for help when you aren't sure because if you screw up, you may damage your printer.
Have you tried lubricating the z-axis threaded rod? It's not mentioned anywhere in the assembly guide, but I found that a liberal application of super lube did wonders for my RepRapPro Mendel. The Z axis used to bind constantly when it moved too fast and now it's perfect.
I wanted to share my first experience with switch swapping. I was nervous because so many people said the Leopold was hard to desolder and this was my first time soldering any thing. But it all went really well, so I wanted to share in case any one else is thinking about it plus some info that might be useful to you veterans as well.
One part of keyboard customization I don't see addressed much is deadening the ping and case sound. Some people add foam to the bottom, but I found going between the PCB and Plate reduces sound a LOT. This baby is stuffed like a turkey and sounds amazing.
I've also seen a lot of people saying how great the Engineer solder sucker is. While the build quality is nice I'm not sure its worth $25, and most of the performance was because of the silicon tip. So I just added one to a cheap sucker and it worked great. I was worried about the temp as it says it isn't rated up to 350c but it worked great with barely any discoloring, and for like $1 you get 3ft so it basically lasts forever.
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Links -
Neoprene $12 1/8" - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001FVG3CM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Soldering Station $37 - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/STM32-T12-Soldering-Station-Electronic-Soldering-iron-OLED-1-3-Digital-station-solder-iron-tip-welding/32994824865.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7ba64c4dVrNrn3
Solder Sucker $5 - https://www.banggood.com/Sucking-Vacuum-Desoldering-Pump-Solder-Sucker-Remover-Tool-p-932434.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN
Silicon Tube 5x7mm $1 - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1-Meter-Food-Grade-Transparent-Silicone-Rubber-Hose-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-10/32986897358.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7ba64c4dVrNrn3
DSA Caps $35 - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/dsa-profile-Dye-Sub-Keycap-Set-PBT-plastic-retro-beige-for-mechanical-keyboard-beige-grey-cyan/32965815374.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7ba64c4dVrNrn3
Super Lube $5 - https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=super+lube&qid=1556304495&s=gateway&sr=8-5
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I realized I really don't like the DSA keycap profile but this was a really nice set, pretty thick and great dye sub printing, way more crisp than my Enjoy PBT Cherry profile set I've been using.
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I didn't have any lifted pads or issues at all despite me being a total noob. Using a 2.4mm chisel tip and my solder sucker combo worked really well. Just stuck the flat tip on flat side (top/bottom) of the soldered stem, let it heat up for about 5-6 seconds and then sucked. At 350c on my soldering Iron most guides said this was too long but i didn't have any issues, and going quicker left a lot of residue.
Also with the silicon tip I didn't have to move the soldering tip and place the sucker over the stem (doing this fast before the solder cools down is a pita) because of the silicon I just pressed it on top with the soldering iron still heating and sucked all at once. DEFINITELY worth the $1, made the process so much easier.
I also used Super Lube for all my lubing. This is what a lot of people use for the stabilizers as its really thick but then use expensive stuff for the switches. I just used a very small amount (scrape your brush off and then wipe it on so you can barely see it but its shiny). Worked great, no ping from the springs and very smooth and a $5 tube will last forever.
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I want to do another now! need to decide on what type of switches I might like more than these super light 35g box reds. Maybe some speed switches? And I'll want to do a good solid metal case.
Overall I'm just super happy the whole thing worked without any problems. I get to use my really good Leopold plate/base/pcb (i really like the led under caps/num lock to let you know its on) with switches I like more!
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If any one has any questions or needs help doing their first switch swap let me know, I'm 1 for 1 haha.
Recommend checking out the vintage section at bikeforums. Some tricks:
An oxalic acid bath for a day or so works well for removing rust from steel (but don't use it on aluminum). Flitz polish, which I used for a lot, requires a lot of "elbow grease" but gets a good shine on things – including paint (make sure the decals are below the clearcoat!), but it does strip the satin anodizing off of aluminum. WD-40 removes a lot of dried-on crud that mere soap and water fail to solvate. If a brake bolt is rusted into the frame, drip WD-40 onto it, use a block of wood as a buffer and smash it with a hammer. If the quill stem is stuck/rusted, unscrew the stem bolt a few mm, use a buffer and smash it with a hammer. - this will loosen the expander wedge. Turning the seatpost (keep the saddle attached) in one constant direction while pulling up is the best way to gradually remove it if it's stuck - twisting it back and forth will gouge it in a particularly ugly fashion. Um... get an adjustable (aka "crescent") wrench, I don't think a single nut on this bike worked with my normal wrenches.
That's all I can think of at the moment. Basic bike stuff also applies, like greasing the threads of every bolt and (almost) every metal-metal contact point (the cranks are supposed to be a dry press fit, though!), and lubing all the pivots & springs & whatnot. I like synthetic SuperLube with PTFE for grease, and a dry chain lube with Teflon for lubricant.
Bah. Save your money and go to your local hardware store. Tell them you want some clear grease like superlube. It's cheaper and perfectly fine for this kind of stuff.
Like this: http://smile.amazon.com/Super-Lube-Synthetic-Syncolon-Lubricant/dp/B000XBH9HI
I use https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBH9HI on leadscrews and https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UKUHXK on linear rods.
> costar stabs are the worst!
Fight me.
They do the job of stabilizing keys far far better than cherry style ones. Way less wiggle, much smoother and if you lube them; Hooh baby. Recommend this stuff. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBH9HI?redirect=true&pldnSite=1
Easiest way to get them on is to take both plastic inserts, and thread them into the wire on the board. Align them so you can put the cap on, and then do so slowly. Once you get the hang of it, the difference between the two is negligible. Some grease helps with the alignment process thanks to the viscosity.
Dis kind
Have also used dis but doggo chewed the tube so no mo squeezy.
IIRC, Super Lube is the Voron-approved grease.
I've been using this grease on my CH and BCG. So far it's been great.
$80 Zealios V2 67g Switches (These are 20% off right now if you want to get them cheaper!)
$160 KBDFans DIY Kit (Tofu Case, DZ60RGB PCB, Polycarbonate Plate, Stabilizers, Screws, USB C Cable, etc)
$25 Keycaps
$5 Super Lube 21030 (for lubing stabilizers)
Total Cost: $270
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Next Upgrades:
$30 - Zeal Transparent Gold Plated PCB Mount Screw-in Stabilizers V2
$67 - Blue Zilents V2 Switches (Silent Tactile)
$8 - Tribosys 3204 Switch Lubricant
$75 - EPBT x biip Extended 2048 PBT Keycaps Set
Can I use Super Lube 21030 to get rid of the crunchy noise my aftermarket springs make, or is it too thick?
Thanks in advance!
A few options:
MechboardsUK is out of stock.
SwitchTop is great, but int. shipping is $8.50.
Or you can buy from Amazon. I think this is the same stuff that SwitchTop uses.
Honestly as long as you purchase the aluminum Y-axis plate and use spacers alongside my Z-axis bed leveler you will get just as nice results. If you have a wood Y-axis plate you may not want to use spacers and possibly look into auto bed leveling solution.
I use something like this for lubricant: http://amzn.com/B000XBH9HI
As for the spacers I use aluminum spacers that are (I think) 1/4" OD 1/4" Length >3mm ID. Aluminum while the difference is most likely very little, it still is slightly better. I just would recomend going to a hardware store and finding spacers with an OD of 1/4" and length of 1/4" the ID does not matter as long as you can fit a 3mm bolt through it. Best to find something with a somewhat thick wall.
I wrote a huge comment here on how to refurbish a stick, but it was a reply to another comment that was deleted. The deleted comment mentioned Kitsch-Bent brand replacement gears, which I would recommend for sure. You can find them on google and on eBay. (And for the record I'm not associated with Kitsch-Bent, I've just used their product and I don't know of any competitors.)
Keep in mind they're not quite as good as brand new gears, but you can get a pack of 10 controllers' worth for significantly less than you'd spend on a single brand new controller.
In addition to this, here's how you refurbish the rest of the stick: I would highly recommend buying a jar of ceramic grease and applying it to the insides of the stick using a toothpick, or with a q-tip with the end cut off. This is the stuff I use.
You're only going to want to use a little bit. This jar will be enough for every N64 controller you ever repair. Seriously. The other bonus is that the ceramic microparticles embed themselves in the plastic, so instead of the assembly being dry plastic on plastic (which will rub itself to dust, literally) it becomes greased ceramic rubbing against ceramic. Theoretically it'll last forever, and practically it'll most certainly last "long enough."
You want to take the whole joystick assembly apart, keeping in mind the order and orientation of everything. Then you want to actually clean all of the parts as good as possible. (If you replace the gears then just throw the old ones out — don't bother cleaning them). There shouldn't be any plastic dust on them before you continue.
DO NOT REMOVE THE ROUND BLACK GEARS WITH SLOTS ALONG THE EDGES FROM THE WHITE BOWL. These gears are precision designed and are meant for sensing the displacement of the stick. If you fuck them up, your joystick is garbage. Heed my warning.
Now that the parts are all clean, put them together and grease them in this order:
As long as you followed this carefully and made sure to not get any grease anywhere near the optical sensors, nor anywhere near the slots they sense your joystick should be as good as can be.
I've purchased two brand new OEM N64 controllers, and I did this to both of them.
That's probably your brake pad ears rubbing against your brake clips. I had new pads and rotors installed and had the same problem until I took the pads out and lubed the clips and pad ears. It's about $18 a bottle and lasts forever. You might also want to pull your caliper pins and lube them up as well otherwise your caliper might be stuck pressing your pads into the rotors (use a different lube for that). Most dealer brake places don't do it, but good auto shops do (here's a South Main Auto brake change video).
We've got a tube of this that works wonders on all sorts of gearboxes.
I have been trying hi-temp wheel bearing grease for six months and have been very happy so far. For $5-10 you can get a 16 oz tub that will outlast your rifle. I like it because it does not evaporate like aerosolized lubricants after months in storage and it does not burn off like most firearm oils.
There is some debate in the forums about whether greases containing graphite could potentially accelerate corrosion within the receiver but you can easily find synthetic greases without it. I am using the Mag 1 grease and have not noticed any corrosion so far, and it does contain graphite.
https://www.amazon.com/Mag-720-High-Temp-Bearing-Grease/dp/B0077K8WJC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473301961&sr=8-1&keywords=wheel+bearing+grease
https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-ALL78241-Timken-Premium-Bearing/dp/B006K8VIAM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1473301961&sr=8-4&keywords=wheel+bearing+grease
Mine's significantly quieter with some grease. Got a lb of it for like $8 years ago.
I just use Mag 1 grease and it’s worked extremely well in handguns and rifles. And wicked cheap.
As /u/Phil12312 pointed out, the brass coupling should have it's screws a little loose.
You may have a burr on the leadscrew that doesn't "move a little faster".
Try moving the leadscrew using the 1mm setting from the bottom to the top by hand see if you can spot it.
If there is a burr, you can smooth it by hand with a piece of fine (400 - 600 Grit) silicon carbide sanding paper.
Lubricant - \u\Dylanator13 's suggestion of 3-in-one Oil is just plain WRONG. (Sorry, Buddy! :-) )
It's fine that you used what you have handy, it's your machine. If you choose to mistreat it, that's between you and your machine. But PLEASE don't recommend this to anyone else, it's just wrong!
"There are many different suggestions of what lubricant to use online" - Yeah, and the majority of them are the blind leading the blind. Threaded rods need a fine GREASE, not a light OIL that breaks down quickly, and can run down the shaft fouling the stepper motor.
The proper lubricant for a leadscrew is a VERY THIN, EVEN application of either a Lithium based grease, or what many have found superior, a heavy duty PTFE based grease like Super Lube.
It has excellent lube properties, has a very long breakdown time (unlike many greases), and isn't prone to attracting dust which wears bearings.
Here's an Amazon Link:
https://smile.amazon.com/Super-Lube-Dielectric-Synthetic-Authorized/dp/B00C5014K8
But I got mine here in the US at Ace Hardware (was actually MUCH cheaper!) :
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3506761
If you're in Europe, UK or Australia, I don't know where you can get it, maybe someone can jump in!
Let us know if you solve it, K?
PuterPro
https://mechboards.co.uk/shop/all/stabiliser-lubricant/
https://www.amazon.de/SuperLube-Mehrzweck-Synthetik-basierend-Fett/dp/B00C5014K8/
Is this the correct grease for this?
That being said, I've found engine oil has major disadvantages for guns anyway.
Engine oil is low viscosity and creeps well, so it seems to get everywhere except the important reciprocating surfaces. You don't notice it until you take a paper towel with rubbing alcohol and wipe down the plastic frame - suddenly the gun is twice as grippy. It also emulsifies with unburnt powder into a nice black sludge, making 22LR twice as messy.
Moly assembly lube is a lot nicer on handguns, practically disappears as you rub it in, doesn't slowly creep into your holster and doesn't gum up. (Apparently bad for accuracy with rifles tho.).
Still, a drop of motor oil works wonders for wiping metal down.
I can't find Super Lube easily in my area, so I am wondering if this one might be used instead:
https://www.amazon.fr/Tri-Flow-TF23004-Clear-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000C15MUU/ref=sr_1_1?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1518365758&sr=8-1&keywords=synthetic+grease
edit: Maybe this one would be good too? https://www.amazon.fr/Finish-Line-Extreme-Fluoro-Huile/dp/B002L5UL92/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518366940&sr=8-1&keywords=finish+line+extreme
edit 2: Or this one? https://www.amazon.fr/Permatex-81150-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL2RI2/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1518366744&sr=8-8&keywords=permatex
Argh. I am lost in sea of information about mech keyboards (aka, /r/mechanicalkeyboards Wiki ;)
They do make "gun grease." However, there's nothing special about it and it's just repackaged grease in small tubes that are actually pretty convenient.
Go to your local auto parts store and buy yourself a 1 lb. tub of Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease. It'll cost you less than $10 and that'll be about what you pay for 1 oz. of "Gun Grease." The only limitation to this is that you can't throw it in your shooting bag and keep it handy whenever you're shooting.
If you want a tube of something, I like Triflow or Krieghoff Gun Glide.
At the end of the day, though, it's most important to keep the grease clean. When you're done shooting, wipe it off and reapply.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C15MUU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I got these lube and grease.
Krytox GPL 207 Grease, Pure PFPE/PTFE, 0.5 oz Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWLD61A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wUmCCbTXMAEDQ
CRC 05109 0.5 Ounces Technician... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CCIDAA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
The grease goes on anything metal and the lube goes on plastic to plastic contact.
This guy's channel was very helpful and informative for me! You should check it out.
/u/taehatypes
https://youtu.be/cD5Zj-ZgMLA
I just replaced my switch assembly and starter relay. Initial problem was as you mentioned. Had manual and next thing in the list to test was relay, friend showed up and shorted with a screw driver. Bike fired right up. He said thats the problem, $10 @ ebay and easy fix that didnt work. Dissassembled switch cause it was a little sticky, had to pull it out after starting once in a while or it'd keep spinning the starter motor, and watched what happened when hitting the button. The button moved, as it should, but also moved the button seat on the inside of the housing. So, sometimes worked, sometimes stuck, sometimes didn't work at all. The button is similar to shorting the relay in that it just connects the circuit long enough to start the bike. So I went to the local bike recycle place and dug through bins of handlebar housings untill I found a switch that looked like mine inside and out. $40 dollars and an hour later I was starting the bile every time with ease. Some $11 liquid electrical tape on the button seat wire connections that had split wire housings due to all the moving around while inspecting and di-electric grease made all the moving parts and plug connections lubed and water tight. I took a vid too if you're interested...
Anti-seize is good stuff but not really good for moving parts. Something that is going to be rotating or touching something rotating at extreme speeds is going to need high temp grease on it. Check this
OK, I'm thinking we do this in stages.
Stage 1 which will allow you to get it riding now and will be perfectly capable of a 4-5mi round trip.
Cable Cutters ($20) stick to the better units but probably no need to go for Park Tool. BBB make a nice one, although I currently have an IceToolz cable cutter because I can't find my good ones.
For the brakes you will need a 4th hand cable stretcher like this Pedros ($17) unit which is a third the cost of a Park Tool unit.
Will also need cables, easiest way is to grab a DIY Jagwire ($24) kit which has both brake and shift cables.
These Vittoria Zaffiro tyres are a good compromise of value, durability and performance. I use these a lot and they're on my training bike. Will also need tubes, and being a commuter, flats are not your friend so these Schwalbe tubes are a good idea. ($60)
Arundel cork bar tape ($20)
A new chain for your bike is probably the only way forward, and this KMC is perfect ($6)
The brake pads on your calipers will now doubt be old, and also a 30yo pad compound, so not overly efficient. Would strongly recommend these Kool Stop Continental brake pads as a starting point before we get to Phase 2 ($10)
Grease for the Bottom Bracket and Headset (and wheel hubs) is also needed, but there's absolutely no need to buy bike-specific grease, so this Valvoline tub as an example would be ideal ($10) .
The chain needs to be lubed, and in dry conditions I like Finish Line dry lube. Others will have their own preferences, but this is a good starting point.
Also should think about replacing the saddle, but this is very subjective and not something that can be recommended in terms of which saddle to buy. Maybe scoot around Craigslist for your area and see what comes up..
In terms of learning the skills, the Park Tool video channel is surprisingly good although heavy on product placement and endorsement although this is to be expected. There are lots of alternatives to Park Tool tools though, including Pedro's, BBB and others. None of the skills associated with your era of bike are all that difficult, and refurbishing this to be usable in your context is completely feasible in your garage.
May also want to consider buying one of the entry-level bike toolkits like this tool kit as a starting point ($40) although this is just an example however is the same kit as others sell just rebranded.
So phase 1 (not including the tool kit) is about $160-ish and watching a bunch of videos.
sorry for the essay, but once I started it just sort of kept going. Phase 2 is removal of existing driveline, and upgrading to a Shimano 2x8sp indexed group with modern dual pivot calipers and modern alloy wheels. But we can cover that later.
probably a readily available NLGI 1 or 2 ("peanut butter" consistency) general purpose grease, maybe http://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-VV608-Multi-Purpose-Automotive-Industrial/dp/B000GAP43C . A similar grease should be available in pretty much every auto parts store.
No problem. You'll probably be cleaning lint etc mostly from it if you plan to carry it around. I tend to go a little overboard when I clean my guns, but I typically don't clean my rifles/shotguns all that frequently and will go between multiple thousands of rounds before I do.
When I clean my guns I use a mat like this to absorb oils etc and this to get all of the black carbon out of it. I use these to clean the bore/inside of the barrel. I use these and these for the hard to reach places that still have something building up on them.
When you're done cleaning everything, you'll want to make sure you put oil/grease on all the components that come in contact with other parts. Basically if it rolls oil it, if it slides grease it. I use this on the slide/rails where they contact each other and use this in most other places. Then I'll wipe down the exterior with this.
Really all you have to make sure you do is get most of the debris out of the gun, and make sure you have oil on surfaces that create friction or need some kind of rust preventative coating.
Maybe try something thicker? This is what i use on my stabs, http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80345-White-Lithium-Grease/dp/B000HBNV58/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465174527&sr=8-3&keywords=white+lithium
Any lithium based grease, this is the one I use and it works well:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000HBNV58/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_.rnjDbAA02FNQ
should be able to find it just about anywhere, it's pretty common stuff. I have this kind, but any other brand would probably be fine:
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80345-White-Lithium-Grease/dp/B000HBNV58/
Permatex Lithium Grease
Someone here on reddit posted something like this https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80345-White-Lithium-Grease/dp/B000HBNV58 will also work.
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But I cant confirm this!
Can you post a link of the product(red lithium grease from Walmart). I saw your pics back when and looked at walmart and couldn't find it, I got some white lithium grease on Amazon. Did you buy the syringe at Walmart also?
Dielectric lithium grease
I used this and it is better: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HBNV58/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This stuff:
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24110-Ultra-Brake-Caliper/dp/B000HBNV6W
I think you're thinking of the silver stuff? The permatex stuff for caliper pins I get is a green synthetic grease. Link: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24110-Ultra-Brake-Caliper/dp/B000HBNV6W/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=permatex+synthetic+brake+parts+lubricant&qid=1559278638&s=gateway&sprefix=permatex+sy&sr=8-2
You talking about this stuff which I was told to put on the slide pins and "ears" of the brake pads? Or this other stuff which clearly advertises stopping squeaks but I've never used and really don't know where I'm supposed to apply it?
Also where am I supposed to apply it and what is the difference between them? Could I use both? Also can I use it on my motorcycle because the front brake squeaks constantly even tho the pads are fine?
If those slide pins end up seizing, you'll probably end up with uneven brake pad wear and random noises coming from your brakes (this is caused because the brake pads are still in contact with the rotor even if you release the brakes Those pins are what guides the pads to the rotor at the correct angle. If they're seized, you'll end up with stuck calipers that grind even if you're not braking. The grease is cheap, so there really isn't a reason not to do it. The bottle below will last a lifetime. Also, make sure those rubber boots are intact, if they're ripped, replace them.
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24110-Ultra-Brake-Caliper/dp/B000HBNV6W
This stuff is better for the slides
Superlube Synthetic grease also works great, is safe to use on plastic and is non-toxic. You can find it here, https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518152510&sr=8-1&keywords=superlube+synthetic+grease. It comes in various sizes. You can also purchase a 14oz cartridge of it for a few dollars more but I prefer to have it in a plastic tube.
 
Some people that have used white lithium grease have said that it can dry up a bit and clump up over time. I did a lot of research before deciding on the best grease to use for the N64 joystick.
Over on GeekWack there was some special blend floating around, but it was going for the same price is cocaine. I would suggest this one if you want to go cheaper.
What did you pack the bearings with originally?
Here's what I use:
https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468280863&sr=8-1&keywords=superlube
Ah, I did manage to find the grease you mentioned.
It's this one, right?
Thanks for the advice!
Sure -- i edited my comment to say REGREASE not DEGREASE for the valve... typo
this is the stuff i use
Amazon.
I also have a self-built i3 that was loud when first built. I was able to cut down on noise by doing the following:
Also, periodically make sure that all nuts are tight. They tend to loosen from vibration allowing washers to rattle around.
My next step will probably be using IGUS Drylin bearings in place of my ball bearing LM8UUs, but this plan is on hold while I consider switching to a CoreXY configuration.
Hope this helps!
Lithium grease is more for weather resistance and heavy duty. I wouldn't use anything heavier than the ptfe silicone.
http://www2.dupont.com/Consumer_Lubricants/en_US/applications/faqs.html
Honestly though $6.82 and free shipping http://www.amazon.com/Synthetic-Grease-Syncolon-Purpose-Lubricant/dp/B000XBH9HI
That stuff is really good and not too heavy.
Without lube, they are smoother than other stabilizers I've tried. But with lube, I can't say I notice a big difference in actual use, so the Zeal stabilizers might not be worth the price premium. You should at least get genuine Cherry stabilizers and some lube, though.
So use amazon.ca
Super Lube 21030 Translucent White Color 3 oz. Automotive Accessories https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MDXBDbZ1BRJ18
Is this what you suggested? http://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/
Superlube http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_Pbvsub127V363
https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-Synthetic-FamilyValue-kes-Super/dp/B000XBH9HI?th=1
No idea why Dielectric Grease price gone so weird on Amazon. Have you considered looking at eBay?
Hi guys I'm looking for a lube for stabilizers in switzerland/germany/austria.
Is this one good?
https://www.amazon.de/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?__mk_de_DE=ÅMÅZÕÑ&qid=1541859809&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=SUPER+LUBE&dpPl=1&dpID=314datimFhL&ref=plSrch
Could you recommend another one?
This is what I use. Big improvement in prints.
Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jDe7CbKSHZ7KG
Oil
Grease
I used this for my stabilizers: Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube by Super Lube https://www.amazon.de/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QLATybMWDFXHH
If you can still reach the points where the wire is having contact with the oring (seems like you can) with a small paintbrush, you can still apply lube.
No, but similar. It's [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469891298&sr=8-1&keywords=super+lube) There's a bit of grease still clinging to the gears, in a film, so I think i'm just applying too much
What I use https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494483488&sr=8-1&keywords=super+lube
Go for this one if you want a 3oz tube.
Alternatively, 82340 works great.
Yes. If you outer chamfer the tube edge, it will prevent the tube edge from catching on the o-ring.
Additionally, you can lightly lube the o-ring (see Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/). Lubing will allow the tube to go in much easier while still maintaining a seal. You want the lightest coating you can do. I use a foam tip art brush applicator.)
You can go with Techkeys, or 1UpKeyboards, or I typically will use Superlube (there are a couple different types of lubricant under that brand, so make sure you are getting the right one) The one I linked above has worked great for me.
Don't overdo it, look up a guide.
And remember to put your stabs in before you solder. I've screwed that up twice.
there are some videos here... about disassembly - get your self some silicone grease and put 'Small smear' of grease on the seal before you reassemble the converter. One small tube is basically a life-time supply - several brands to choose - just make sure it is a clear silicone grease Some pen companies sell it as well - example
I'm getting my YMD96 kit delivered on Thursday. I want to clip and lube my stabilizers based on Kim's video.
I can find Dielectric Grease locally here in Toronto but I can't find any Finish Line Teflon Grease, or any other teflon grease for that matter.
Ordering 205g0 will take 6-10 days from Apex. Here are my other, immediate options:
Would anyone of those be a replacement for 205g0 or teflon grease to lubricate the stabilizer housing?
Any reason to go with Super Lube over Permatex to lube the metal bars?
I believe that grease is actually ideal for bearings over oil in terms of longevity of the application and I was recommended some superlube synthetic PTFE grease. It’s pretty cheap on amazon and there are printable bearing packers on thingiverse you can use to get it all the way in the races. (Just noticed you said you didn’t have access to it!)
I actually didn’t have grease when I built it so I used some synthetic PTFE oil on the rods and that has seemed to be fine. From the good article below, the important thing is that you don’t apply different (synthetic vs. non-synthetic) lubricants at the same time. Hence ideally you degrease the oil they are shipped in with isopropanol before applying more oil/grease. However, I read that the shipping oil is synthetic so I just applied the synthetic PTFE oil to the rods without de-greasing. I am just about to tear down and revise the bearings with grease the proper way myself actually.
So bottom line is that if your oil with PTFE is synthetic you can just apply it directly, but the ideal would be to de-grease and then apply grease of your choice.
Here’s a great resource (though the link is borked with the new prusa site—google “set your bearings straight” and it’s the first one that comes up): https://prusacommunity.com/set-your-bearing-straight/
And the superlube: Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7yCWCb21H21WM
Thingiverse link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3328377
Don't use anything that can eat away at the plastic in your linear bearings. Highly suggest Super Lube Synthetic Grease
https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=asc_df_B000XBH9HI/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167152075853&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17297344115033260690&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027607&hvtargid=pla-315922229188&psc=1
What i use on my printer, same model and rebrand name.
I use Super Lube in my old S-K ratchets. Made them a lot quieter and very smooth.
Honestly thought, I don't think it really makes much of a difference what grease you use, as long as it's not low viscosity so it doesn't seep out of the ratchet.
Save yourself $20 and grab this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBH9HI
I lubed up my Hog 2 years ago and while I'm about due for a re-apply, it's still smoother than it was OOB. It has not eaten the plastic.
I use this stuff. It came highly rated by some prominent GH'ers, and it made the stabilized keys on my V80 sound, and feel, so good!
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000XBH9HI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's 10 quid right now but I only paid £4.50, so maybe shop around a little more?
Like these? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0081JE0OO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1517763063&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=super+lube+silicone+grease&dpPl=1&dpID=41r5t-pNsNL&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000XBH9HI/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1517763063&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=super+lube+silicone+grease&dpPl=1&dpID=31-xhQ8JfAL&ref=plSrch
here's what I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBH9HI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Depends on the plastic. If you are referencing automotive lubes then yea dont use lithium grease for auto plastics. But for the plastics in analog sticks, it should be fine.
Personally I use this for my game stuff.
I used this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBH9HI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and they accidentally sent me an entire box of like 10 tubes (lol) but it worked.
I also found that I needed to loosen the tension plates a bit to et the resistance I wanted
This stuff is what I just grabbed. Will be here tomorrow.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/cr/B000XBH9HI/s=sd/ref=mw_dp_cr?qid=1426043923&sr=8-1 love this stuff and is very good for so many things.
The only time I ever had an issue with my elite was after having it for a long long time(about five years as well) chances ate it's the same issue I had which was the pancake motor not spinning well more and more each day.
I went online and asked if I could grease it up with WD40, but was told because of how fast the discs spin it would evaporate real quick. Got suggested to use ceramic brake grease because of it's high temp tolerance.
Permatex 24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant, 8 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018PSASU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TnWpDbR9N4XCM
Hadn't had a disc problem since. All you need to do is take the part that disc sits on off of the motor, grease up the lil rod, put it back together, and you should be fine.
Also you should be able to get the grease in an auto parts store really cheap, usually up by the registers in little test packets.
Mine have been quiet. MUCH better brakes than my previous Acura. The Acura didn't stop as well and had much more of a "pulsing" feeling. The only downside to the Volvo brakes is they do generate a LOT of black brake dust. But just wash your car and it's gone!
If you're getting a squeak when breaking then I'd suggest cleaning and re-lubricating the brake hardware. You can have a shop do this, or if you do it yourself, this is a great lubricant: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24125-Ceramic-Extreme-Lubricant/dp/B0018PSASU
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24125-Ceramic-Extreme-Lubricant/dp/B0018PSASU
Between the rim and the rotor. ;)
https://smile.amazon.com/Permatex-24125-Ceramic-Extreme-Lubricant/dp/B0018PSASU?sa-no-redirect=1
---------------
The front caliper piston on most vehicles do move in and out, but the back piston generally needs to threaded back in, and would need a tool.
A generic clamp of any kind is fine for retracting a push-in piston, you just need to be slow and patient with it. Don't crank the clamp all at once, turn it about 1/8th of a turn and wait 20 seconds, and again. Make sure to use something which won't harm the piston face; Wood works well. Make sure the clamp is straight and the piston is going back in straight.
If rust is an issue in your area get some penetrant like PB Blaster or something and try to get the bolts soaking before it's time for the repair, if possible.
Make sure you have the proper lubricants, and the proper grease for the slider pins. Lube the piston mating surface(s) and the ears of the pads with a film of quality ceramic/synthetic brake grease. Not a GLOB, a film.
Make sure to clean up the shims and replace them if they are at all damaged or deformed. A film of grease where the shims mate to the caliper bracket is a good idea as well.
Be sure to avoid getting the grease/lube on any braking/friction surfaces such as the rotor or pad faces. Rotors can be cleaned with a rag and brake clean.
Make sure the tattle-tale, if present, is going in the correct direction. Make sure the pads are mounted properly. Try to reference the pads your removing first.
If you're replacing Rotors and/or replacing pads with a different compound, you should follow a "bed in procedure." A general bed-in is a few very light brakes from low speed like stop and go traffic, a few stops from 10-20 mph sort of riding the brakes holding them till you roll to a stop, and then one or two good "emergency stops" with a firm foot planted from 20-30mph. This will help ensure that friction material is transferred into the rotor surface which helps ensure proper stopping power.
I hope this helps.
Those are both the same?
The stuff i used is green in color and specifically says can be used on caliper slide pins.
This stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-85188-Ultra-Brake-Caliper/dp/B004WJPN2A/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1484436155&sr=1-3&keywords=permatex+caliper+lube
It does say on the packaging that its safe on gaskets, rubber, and plastics.
EDIT: well, looks like i'm buying some of the silicone based hi temp caliper lube.
[It's called lube, but is closer to a grease in consistency.] (http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-85188-Ultra-Brake-Caliper/dp/B004WJPN2A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462209755&sr=8-1&keywords=brake+caliper+grease)
You could try pulling all the bolts that attach your caliper and rotor. Clean all mounting surfaces and retourqu all mounting bolts (put a little bit of grease or locktite on bolt threads). You might also put a tiny dab of grease on all mounting surfaces for the caliper, one dude suggested a tiny dab of this behind the pad (not sure I'm on board with this).
Here is a decent pinkbike article and a recent reddit thread with the aforementioned advice.
Make sure you are mounting the caliper so it is contacting the rotor squarely.
Lastly, if you are absolutely stymied, it may be a bad caliper.
Permatex 85188 Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004WJPN2A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
that is what I use
Guess I have to upgrade to Permatex 24125, after I just bought 8oz of the other stuff :(
You should be able to find it in a squeeze tube at any auto parts store, that's probably better then a tub for this anyway.
https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10533-Lithium-Grease/dp/B004X70LZA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496931353&sr=8-1&keywords=lucas+white+lithium+grease
high temp grease will last a long time
The grease I bought: https://www.amazon.com/Honda-08798-9010-MOLY-PASTE-M77/dp/B0083BWUYW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1472694292&sr=8-6&keywords=grease+moly One tube was enough for both axles.
http://www.amazon.com/Shibari-Intimate-Lubricant-High-Grade-Silicone/dp/B00OPFE09I/ref=sr_1_1?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1420549430&sr=1-1- For moving parts
For threading the stock and barrel: http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda-08734-0001-Moly-Grease/dp/B0083BWUYW/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1420549469&sr=1-3&keywords=honda+grease
COME AT ME BRO
I use high temp grease like you'd use in a grease gun to lube bearings, the particular brand is "Mobil grease xhp 222" but any decent grease should work. here's a link to the stuff I use, that lil mini grease gun thing the show in the recommended items is super fucking handy too.
https://www.amazon.com/Multipurpose-Grease-XHP-SPECIAL-14-1/dp/B009VGEEM4
But I kinda go overboard and grease all possible contact points, like where the trigger bars ride against the frame, and I'll put a dab on the rear cage then smush it in with my finger so it can get worked into all the surfaces there and slicked everything up. Basically if any 2 pieces of metal are gonna touch I like them to be greased, the firing pin gets a tiny amount of oil, like 2 drops at most, and then I cycle the gun by hand a bunch and wipe up any excess.
Some q-tips and toothpicks make applying it a lot easier, that lil grease gun is a God send though, I highly recommend it.
And yeah the best part of the comp is how bad ass it looks, my brother was flipping out like "this shit looks like something out of metal gear" lol
Both good:
https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-300243-Specialist-Lithium-Grease/dp/B00L35DAWQ/ref=pd_sim_328_1?ie=UTF8
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AF0ODGM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Depending on how its configured, you might consider spray lithium 'grease' (after cleaning out the existing crud with an appropriate solvent). It is waterproof, non-conducting, and doesn't attract dust/fuzzle.
WD-40 will get you most of the way there, but you really want something with a higher viscosity, like white lithium grease. For $5 you can get enough to fix every squeak on campus: https://www.amzn.com/B00MIWVKPM/
Edit: you can also put in a service request through your Cal Poly portal, but that will take forever.
As others have said just go with DOW 33......you can find a giant tube of it on Amazon under Dow Corning Molykote 33. Or this link : http://www.amazon.com/Dow-Corning-Molykote-Grease-Lubricant/dp/B0141NIS8M/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1450356580&sr=8-2-fkmr1&keywords=dow+33+mo
I shoot and tech the vanquishes and luxes for my team and bought a single tube of this 2+ yrs ago and I still have a ton left.
Check the manual and parts guide and get some Dow 33 grease. And the maintenance is easy. There's YouTube videos on it. Basically just clean and re-grease the o-rings between each day of play.
SILGLYDE LUBE COMPOUND-- 8 OZ. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KXLR5E/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Th9Cub10EB47C made just for what you are asking for.
Don't bother with Krytox. Just get some Superlube grease and oil and lightly mix them to reach your desired thickness.
Grease: https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1524756523&sr=1-3
Oil: https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-51004-Synthetic-Viscosity/dp/B000UKUHXK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524756288&sr=8-2
Your desired thickness is up to the user. I was previously using very thin mixture (maybe 80% oil, 20% grease) which was OK, but I tried 70% grease, 30% oil, and I found that I preferred the thicker mixture.
By the way, there really is such a thing as headlight/blinker light fluid. It's more like a thin paste, it's conductive, and it's oil based so it keeps the contacts from corroding if they get exposed to Amy moisture.
And no, I'm not shitting you.
$34 for fucking grease. Hahaha. Here:
https://www.amazon.com/Tri-Flow-TF23004-Clear-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000C15MUU
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-37565-Silver-Anti-Seize-Lubricant/dp/B0006Q7H2W
I have Prime, and even with prime there is a minimum order of $25 or they won't ship it out.
For example i need some grease, but couldn't order without adding more to my cart. These are called Add-on items