Best greases & lubricants according to redditors

We found 455 Reddit comments discussing the best greases & lubricants. We ranked the 135 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Automotive greases
Automotive lubricants

Top Reddit comments about Greases & Lubricants:

u/IamaBlackKorean · 20 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I've gotten to using this:

Apply with terry cloth rag and wait a few, and wipe off. I have yet to replace any seals, including on a 2 decade old VW that's been parked outside in California sun.

u/Kariko83 · 17 pointsr/3Dprinting

If you enjoy tinkering then the Folger Tech i3 2020 is a pretty good printer and you can read my review of it here.

Get some Super Lube or other appropriate grease to pack the bearings with so that they don't fail on you like mine eventually did.

You will want to get a good set of metric hex keys as the vast majority of the screws are metric hex heads.

A soldering iron, 16g or better primary wire, and some solder are also a must as you will have to solder the leads to the heated bed so it can be connected to the RAMPS board.

Personally if I was to go back and build mine again I would toss the Mk2 heater PCB and use a Mk3 aluminum heated bed with a sheet of PEI on top from the start. It would have saved me both money and time troubleshooting both adhesion issues and the majorly warped heater PCB.

If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask.

u/Bundleojoy · 16 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

OP, next time I would explain that it is WD-40 Branded contact cleaner. When you say WD-40 people assume you mean what I link below and that is used for a large number of things but electronics is not one of them.

u/Virisenox_ · 10 pointsr/flashlight

My recommendation: Super Lube. It's cheap, and it will work on anything. With vaseline, the petroleum will damage certain types of o-rings. Astro-glide is just not designed for this type of application either.

Lots of people also really love Nyogel. Here's a good CPF thread about greases and lubes.

u/diaperboicayden · 9 pointsr/ABDL

Here ya go buddy. This will help you get it unstuck. You're welcome in advance. <3

u/vzwire · 8 pointsr/Miata

I played that game everyday for a year, until I discovered this on the interwebs.

u/atraudes · 7 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

Don't know if GCs are special, but generally yep, that's exactly it. Just make sure to do it on level ground. Have a fluid pump ready to go though; sometimes you don't have enough space to properly tip a bottle. I use this one for lots of stuff:

u/kenabi · 7 pointsr/hardware

white lithium grease.

ps; most gun oils are just normal machine oils with a couple of additives. alright for what they sell them as, but in this case you want something that will stick to the bits. WLG is the stuff they use on the moving bits of flight sticks from the factory, as well as stuff like the moving parts in any optical drive, some childrens toys where the lubrication will never be exposed to the light of day, etc.

something like this used sparingly, but with full coverage of the contact surfaces, will sort things out nicely.


u/jkkissinger · 7 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Make sure to clean the slide pins and their holes well. Then apply brake grease on the pins and in the hole. That should solve the issue.

This is what I use

u/MadaMadaDesu · 7 pointsr/flashlight


$5 a tube. Safe for incidental food contact. Should last you for years, unless you have like 500 lights or something.

Wipe off gunk on thread with microfiber cloth.
Apply a tiny dab.
Work it in by tightening and loosening a few times.
Wipe off excess.

u/nauticalmile · 7 pointsr/guns

You can probably get it cheaper at your local Walmart or auto parts store.

u/Desmocratic · 7 pointsr/cars

Good call on the seal grease, I use the Honda stuff on my BMW Z3 seals, you can buy it on Amazon:
[Honda Grease]( via @amazon)

u/nonickname87 · 6 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

That is extremely poor advice. All lubricants breakdown over time, and should be changed out with fresh fluids. This probably come from people putting the wrong fluid in. You need to replace it with GL-4 gear oil. Most gear oils you'll find at local auto shops is GL-5 and not safe for the syncros. If you need to change it, get some MT-90 from Amazon. You'll need to buy 4qts. Also, a pump will help out a lot.

u/Nodash · 6 pointsr/reactiongifs

I live overseas. There are a lot of items that Amazon won't ship overseas. Example

u/nexusheli · 6 pointsr/rccars

Standard WD-40 is not a lubricant. WD-40 displaces water and acts as a degreaser. It will work as a lubricant for a short period, but once it evaporates you'll have no lubrication.

The stuff you linked is a silicone lube that's simply under the WD-40 brand, it is not WD-40 in the traditional sense. As it's a spray, it's not the sort of lube you really want in a bearing; what you want is a really light silicone or lithium grease: that stays inside the bearing.

u/Gh0stRAT · 6 pointsr/lockpicking

Don't use WD40 on locks. Powdered graphite should be available at your local hardware store.

Not sure whether or not it would help, just thought I should add what you should use instead of WD40 because CrankyTank did't elaborate.

u/Catgutt · 6 pointsr/airsoft

Here are a pair of WE Lugers, the left one havint stock externals aside from the painted grips which I detailed in an earlier post, and the right one showing the results of the method detailed in this post. As with many airsoft guns, the satin black finish on the left gun looks nothing like the real thing, and lets down what is otherwise a very convincing replica.

So, here's my method for fixing that cheap paintwork, without having to strip or repaint the entire gun, and without applying bluing chemicals to Chinese mystery metal (with unpredictable results). This technique also works equally well on plastic, and can make plastic guns look much more realistic.

You'll need the following:

-Powdered graphite. You can grind up a pencil in a pinch, but it's much easier to just get powdered graphite lubricant off the Internet or your local hardware store (check by the padlocks).

-A gentle cloth for buffing, and another for applying the graphite. I use rags made from a cut-up cotton T-shirt.

-Matte varnish. I use Testor's Dullcote, but anything matte will do. You can use satin or gloss varnish for a shinier look, but you will not be able to apply additional layers of graphite after sealing.

First, squirt some graphite into a bottlecap, dip your first cloth into it, and use it to rub the graphite into the surface of the gun. If you're working on a large, flat area, you can squirt the graphite directly onto the gun and use the cloth to spread it around. Work the graphite into the surface until it has a uniform tone. Avoid handling the parts with graphite, or it'll come off on your fingers.

Once the gun is fully coated in graphite, you need to seal it to prevent the graphite from rubbing off on your hands or running off with water. Give it a few quick passes with the matte varnish, enough for a solid coat without any patchy areas. You'll notice that this will tone down the shiny metallic effect to a dull grey, this is normal.

Now, you can either call it good, or add another layer of graphite to strengthen the color and shine. The more layers you add, the greyer the gun will get. For this Artillery Luger, I did a second layer of graphite, and then sealed again with varnish.

When you're satisfied with the color and have sealed it for the last time, take your second cloth and rub down all the surfaces you applied the graphite too. Give it a little bit of force and really polish it up. This buffs the matte finish up to a mild satin, giving it that shine that real bluing has and making it look closer to how it did before sealant. If you want it to really shine, you can do a quick shot of satin or gloss varnish too and polish that in. For the Artillery Luger, I just buffed it thoroughly with the rag.

That's all it takes- it's dead simple, with no real room for error, and produces a dramatic improvement in appearance.

Bonus: A Well Webley and AGM MG42, also refinished with this method.

u/OpticalNecessity · 6 pointsr/3Dprinting

I will give you my background before my opinions. As everyone has different goals, opinions, and experiences.

I got my printer near the end March of this year. I have something like 2500m of filament run though it, and no idea how much print time.

When I received my printer, my test prints failed and I was pissed. But this community helped improve my Cura settings and started producing usable parts. I then went nuts and printed out a BUNCH of mods. This is by far my most favorite thing. There's always something I can print to improve the quality of the prints.

THe down side is I went too far and got to a point where I couldn't produce anything of quality. So, 2 weeks of tweeking and researching later I'm printing in PETG with beautiful quality and very minimal visible layers.

My most recent project in PETG:

So, now to answer your question...

> How do you like your Maker Select?

I love it. It allowed me to buy a cheaper printer (One of the cheapest at the time @ $350) that produced amazing results. It also has upgrades you can purchase or print to improve the quality, so investing smaller amounts over time to make it better and better. I highly recommend it to anyone who is starting because it does require tweaking which forces you to learn and understand how exactly 3d printers work. A major plus was that this community has a lot of Maker Select users for support, which was a MAJOR plus for me.

As of today, I've purchased the following upgrades:

  • IKEA enclosure - $115
  • LEDs for Inside enclosure - $25
  • MK-9/10 Extruder Gear - $9
  • Micro Swiss All Metal hot End - $50
  • Micro Swiss Lever - $18 (Totally not necessary, but Micro Swiss's support was AMAZING to deal with, and I wanted to support them so I purchased this as well.
  • Misc. M3 and M4 Screws, etc. - ~$25 in total between Amazon Orders and Lowe's for things needed for mods.
  • New 40mm fan because I broke the blade on the one I had. There are cheaper ones than this. - $14
  • 50mm blower fan - $8

    So, in the last ~3 months I've spent an additional $264... Oh god, don't tell my wife! All are totally not necessary, mind you. The only thing I'd 100% recommend you do are print out the following to mods:

    DiiiCooler along with buying the 50mm blower fan. There are cheaper options out there, I just wanted it faster so I bought it through Amazon to get free 2 day shipping.

    z-Brace - This is key, and will run you maybe $15 worst case scenario to get enough M4 screws and the threaded rods.

    Edit: Forgot a couple more things I bought.

  • Lowe's glass - $4 for 2 pieces of 7.9"x7.9" glass
  • Borosilicate Glass - $12 - Amazing adheasing with PLA and ABS. Don't use it right now, though because I'm printing in PETG and I read on here that PETG eats borosilicate glass.
  • Lithium Grease - $7. When I changed my bearing blocks, I had issues with sticking so I purchased some of this to help smoothing out the bearing movement on the polished rods.
  • 3D print removal tool - $5. Printer comes with a larger scraper, but I needed something a bit more fine (thin) and this thing is perfect.
  • Spare bearings - $13 because I broke one of them when swapping to 3d Printed bearing blocks.
  • Digital Calipers - $18

    That's another $59, so $323... I have a problem. again, 95% of this is NOT NECESSARY. I'm just addicted to modding.
u/BPTOwner · 6 pointsr/RBI

Did she see the staining on any other doors? The black grease looks like some kind of graphite dry lube.

u/so_this_is_my_name · 5 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Long flexible hose works wonders for those awkward fillings. Something like this.

u/nrreynolds1 · 5 pointsr/tdi

I've changed the fuel filter 3 times now and I always use a borrowed VCDS. Here are some helpful links.

  • VW Vortex VCDS Map - Find a kind soul who will let you borrow their VCDS cable
  • Standard Quart Bottle Pump - I have found that this is the cheapest and most reliable method to extract the existing fuel from the filter housing. The hose is small and it functions in a manner that's easier than a siphon IMO. If you don't remove the fuel, you are guaranteed to get a hell of a lot of diesel splash back once that filter comes undone from the housing cap. I still recommend using some paper towels or rags around the filter housing in case of even minor splash as you don't want to risk getting fuel on the rubber engine hoses.
  • You will want to purchase a small fuel can to hold the new diesel as well as a clean receptacle to catch the existing fuel you remove from the housing (maybe a funnel to get the reclaimed diesel back into your tank, I usually wing that detail)
  • How-to guide I use for filter changes - You're probably already familiar with this site but, if not, it will go into detail about everything you need to do including VCDS
  • Don't use the "Output Tests" method described in the link above when you are using VCDS, but rather the "Basic Settings > Block 35 > On" method shown in a little blurb at the bottom for about 30 seconds x 3. This does a good job of removing any air in the fuel lines.

    Message me with any questions.
u/JaSkynyrd · 5 pointsr/MTB
u/CoolGuyZ71 · 5 pointsr/AutoDetailing
u/Ratus_ · 5 pointsr/flashlight

Links are fine.

Nyogel is good or you could just use this, it works just fine too.

I have a tube from 2003-ish that I'm still using, its basically a lifetime supply.

u/mynameisalso · 5 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

This is what I use. I can't think of anything better. Permatex 24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant, 8 oz.

u/arizona-lad · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Here is a tip for you. Get a six year warranty water heater (if you ever need to buy one), but make it last decades. First watch this, from about the 1:40 mark:

Guy is replacing the sacrificial anode. On yours, remove it and coat the threads with a anti-seize compound:

Then reinstall it. Now use a marker on the tank to show the installation date. Every five years from that point you pop out the old worn-out anode and install a fresh one.

My last tank lasted 32 years, I think. The anode really reduces corrosion to almost nothing.

u/turn_n_cough · 4 pointsr/3Dprinting

That damage occurred while trying to unscrew the nozzle from the heater block- aluminum + steel + heat is a bad combo. Auto mechanics have known about this since they first started seeing aluminum engine blocks. Anti-seize compound is used on spark plugs to prevent this same sort of problem.

The solution (?)

Will try this stuff when I replace the heater block. It's supposed to be good up to 870C.

u/mattstryfe · 4 pointsr/S2000

Hard to beat the price and shipping of Amazon IMO.

u/looseseels · 4 pointsr/guitarpedals

Any dielectric grease or white grease should do the trick. Plus you can find it in almost any home improvement or auto parts store.

u/Lion42 · 4 pointsr/flashlight


NyoGel is great but expensive. SuperLube is great but cheap...

u/ctyt · 4 pointsr/flashlight

Is it terrible that I use this stuff to lubricate my lights? Granted, my most expensive is a Convoy S2+.

u/nubbinator · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

It's a thinner oil lubricant that's non-reactive with the plastic and often mixed with Krytox GPL 205, a grease lubricant. It's the "ultimate lube" for MX switch contact points (aside from clicky switch stems) according to some people at Geekhack, Deskthority, and some Korean sites. I recently got some as a gift and will try them out with my pseudo Ergo Clears in which I'll be using 67g Korean springs.

Of course, some people don't really see a difference between it and a cheap tube of Superlube. Some actually prefer Superlube and others think the Krytox is a little better, but not worth the premium.

u/no1_lies_0n_internet · 4 pointsr/HondaCB

Yeah, I'm restoring mine for a high school project and It's surprisingly easy, even without any mechanical knowledge, to repair these bikes. They're very simple and you can buy tons of reproduction parts from this website. Just get some metric wrenches, this, this, and download this. Welcome to the club, don't be an asshole.

EDIT: Can you link the CL ad?

u/pepsihatman · 4 pointsr/fffffffuuuuuuuuuuuu

Powdered graphite lock lubricant. Could be the key is a bit off and the pins in the lock can probably use some lubricant. (Do not use WD-40 or other liquid lubricants, only powdered graphite). Amazon link, but you can get it much cheaper at Walmart or local hardware store

u/baby_feet · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Lube every stab, even if you have only basic lubes. Safe to use and available locally (especially auto parts stores) would be super lube or white lithium grease.

u/ettibol · 4 pointsr/pelotoncycle

I was motivated by the recent thread with the X rated pics of the frame, so this weekend I spent quite a lot of time inspecting the bike everywhere with a flashlight for rust (owned less than 1 year). As someone who leaves a puddle on the floor after a workout, it only made sense that had to leave impact on steel. While Peloton suggests you to wipe down the bike after a ride, the places where most people would clean, such as the large smooth surface areas, may keep the bike looking good but are actually not problem areas. The problem is everywhere you miss--seat bolt and the threads on the frame, connectors, the gap to the shaft on the left pedal, the bolt and opening where the cover on the right meets the frame, underside of frame where the welds are, outer pedal threads, metal screws, etc. For the seat handle, not only were the threads in bad shape, but also I could see rust on the front and back of the handle where it meets the bolt. Basically, the more I looked for rust, the more I found. Left untreated for a few years, I think it would have evolved into bigger problems down the road.

I used Ospho on many of the painted parts and the bolts and let it sit for a day. Getting to some parts required something like a toothpick or a dental tool with the paper towel scrap to scrub. Ospho (HD equivalent here) makes rust inert and preps it for painting, then used a touch up brush and applied some black rustoleum paint to the painted areas. Then I used white lithium grease(spray) to protect all the moving parts and bolts, and even into the seat handle. To protect the underbelly of the frame where the welds are, I'm tempted to apply some stickier grease like Red and Tacky to completely seal those areas from sweat and air after now that the paint has dried, because it is not an area that can be easily and properly cleaned every time. Going forward I'll be looking it over much more frequently.

u/icebeat · 4 pointsr/hotas

yes, it is normal, you could use grease to reduce friction see this.
In my opinion, the best grease is Nyogel 767A
Another option is to replace, remove or mod the spring.
personally, I like much more the tension on the warthog than the chewing gum feeling of other joysticks.

u/the4ner · 3 pointsr/cars

IMO these are way, way easier:

screws right on to the bottle of oil. pump till it's empty and swap to the next bottle until fluid runs out the fill hole.
I have one of these for each car/fluid type.

u/TTRSkidlz · 3 pointsr/cassetteculture

I had a problem like this on an old Portastudio.

I put some white lithium grease on the friction-prone portions of the head assembly. That is, any surface that slid against another surface, barring the head itself.

It took some finagling to get it in all the right spots. Then I had to manually move the assembly back and forth, but it eventually started engaging/disengaging normally.

u/MinnesotaTemp · 3 pointsr/cars

The biggest mistake I see mechanics do when changing the brake pads is how they deal with the brake caliper 'slide pins.' The slide pins being clean, rust free, and lubricated with the proper lubricant is very important to longevity of the pads.

What I see most mechanics do is either leave the slide pins alone or just use a petroleum-based 'brake grease' for the slide pins when they relube them. This will not do well, because the slide pins need a silicone-based caliper grease that will not eat the protective rubber boots that cover the slide pins. Many brake greases say "rubber safe" on the label when they actually are not (example Permatex Green Ultra brake grease). 3M's Silicone Paste is great for these pins, as well as Motorcraft XG3-A. Either one will do. Many times the boots will be swollen (due to petroleum grease eating away at it)

Also make sure he bleeds your brakes thoroughly to get that old dirty brake fluid out of the system. Many mechanics not do this when doing a cheap quick brake job because it means cracking open the bleeder screws (and possibly breaking them!) and dealing with that associated headache. Old fluid absorbs water and water rusts your brake lines from the inside out, as well as cause premature brake fade during heated stops.

It might be wise to also bring him the brake pad hardware (associated clips and shims) to go along with the pads and rotors.

Finally, find out what the pad manufacturer recommends for breaking in the brakes (bedding the brakes). Doing this is pretty important to proper smooth operation throughout its life.

u/Nyxian · 3 pointsr/airsoft

Hi. As both someone who uses Froglube on firearms, and as someone who techs AEG gearboxes...

It won't be harmful, but really isn't ideal. Specifically, froglube CLP isn't good, far too thin. The paste - well, if you properly treat all of the metal with the heat treatment, it'll be okay, but I still think a proper gear lubricant is in order.

You have to realize that while they are both "guns" - an AEG is far more a gearbox than a gun. You need gearbox lubricant not gun lubricant.

I highly suggest for seals and the like - a solid silicone lubricant. Barrels and mags - a teflon lubricant with alcohol application, so it dries but still provides lubrication, without getting on bbs.

For the gearbox? Go with Super lube.

u/ender32708 · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

WD-40 is not a lubricant, I use mobil grease, but this would be just fine ( see link) or stop at a auto store and get a multi purpose grease.

Super Lube 21030 Translucent White Color 3 oz. Automotive Accessories

u/EngineeredMadness · 3 pointsr/Homebrewing

My gas toolbox:

Teflon Tape

Replacement gaskets for every fitting in service (tank-to-regulator, and all keg gaskets, beer nut / shank washers if doing faucets)

Extra tubing for gas and beverage

Extra barb-swivel nut fittings

Spray bottle with soapy water or starsan to check for leaks

Channel-lock wrench x 2 (many brass fittings are just threadded so you may need to hold one thing in place while threading or un-threading something else.

Nylon washers if using MFL/FFL connectors (I recommend this as opposed to barb).

Hose Clamps or Oketer Clamps and crimp tool

Faucet Wrench (if you're working with shanks - you do not want to wreck a new shank with a pair of pliers)

Extra picnic taps

Extra QDs

Keg Lube Generic Equivalent: It doesn't need to say Keg on it, it needs to be food grade. Do not mix silicone-based lubricant with silicone gaskets, it will kinda melt them. I have this stuff at the moment


u/PMMeAGiftCard · 3 pointsr/nintendo

I can tell you from experience these work great. I also put a little bit of Superlube Synthetic Grease in mine to slow down the wear and tear.

u/almightywhacko · 3 pointsr/transformers

This is a great looking figure. I have Spark Toy's War Within Optimus Prime and he is an amazing figure. Quality is second to none and the engineering is nearly perfect.

One note about this review:


Petroleum dissolves plastics and WD-40 isn't a lubricant anyway, it is a solvent. If you have a hinge or slider that is too stiff to safely move, get some powdered graphite. It is a dry lubricant, won't harm plastic and any excess can easily be wiped or brushed away.

u/BillNyeDeGrasseTyson · 3 pointsr/everymanshouldknow

> If indeed you are not a professional yourself, I'm sure you'll understand why the professional's recommendations would probably be more persuasive to the average reader.

I've been using the Permatex Ceramic brake lube on all of my stuff lately. It's expensive but it seems to work well. I put that on the pins, and over/under the contact pads, then use the red disk-brake-quiet on the back of the pads.

u/RugerRedhawk · 3 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Most decent pads come with little packets of grease you can use, or you can buy a big bottle of the same stuff. Example:

u/drsfmd · 3 pointsr/scooters

Having struggled with more rusted brake caliper hardware and rusted on drums than I care to talk about, I'm definitely in the school of mo-grease. This is my current favorite.

u/Feb_13th · 3 pointsr/VacuumCleaners

I would apply a thin film of white lithium grease. You can buy it almost anywhere.

u/SSGTSemperFi · 3 pointsr/airsoft

I second Super Lube.

I do, however, use the silicone compounds on the compression train. Silicone grease is a little bit lighter than the synthetic, leads to less of the "suction" effect.

For high speed setups: Oil

For much more longevity: Grease

A quality white lithium grease works great for the drive train as well.

I suggest avoiding nearly all "airsoft" rebranded grease/oils, they're heavily marked up/ repackaged industrial standards.

u/BorisMoreso · 3 pointsr/Nerf

The same product on Amazon, with shipping to Australia.

I use Inox MX6, which you can get from Jaycar or BCF, at the recommendation of someone on here a few months back. It works well.

MTB have used the WD-40 lithium grease spraycans in some of their videos, so they at least don't have a problem with using aerosols. I've also seen some people suggest silicon sprays, like this one.

u/Overateddrummer · 3 pointsr/ar15
u/falkentyne · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

You can buy 100g of Shin Etsu g-30m for $15 dollars.

G-40M is available from focusattack but it's more expensive.

They all perform the same so its not worth paying the extra $10, and Sanwa themselves said that you can use G-30m on their joysticks just fine.

Shin etsu ALSO makes thermal compound for CPUs but this is NOT the same thing. This is VERY high quality silicone lube.

While the best way is to disassemble the top of the switch, only PCB mount switches can be accessed this way without soldering (a removal tool is on You can just find something needle nosed or pinhead thin and press the switch down and squeeze a little into each side of the switch. You don't need a lot.

u/AaronCompNetSys · 3 pointsr/Miata

$15.93 via Amazon Prime - Genuine Honda 08798-9013 Silicone Grease (Thanks, u/tadfisher)

It's a common topic, but many simply have not come across it. This Shin-etsu is what Japanese OEMs use to keep rubber weather stripping like new. It can rejuvenate stuff you though needed replaced, everyone should have a tube of it and treat yearly to bi-yearly, on any vehicle.

Use gloves, apply a very thin layer, allow to sit for at least an hour. Wipe off excess with moist cloth towel.

Posting this because Tom was recommending the cheap generic stuff.

u/IRMuteButton · 3 pointsr/Miata

Here's the Shin Etsu grease on Amazon. It's actually a Honda part and useful for all kinds of things. It has the consistency of soft butter.

u/LJ-Rubicon · 3 pointsr/Jeep

Regular wd40 is not a lubricant, you have to break that habit. It's designed to clean electronics and rid them of water

White lithium is what you want

Wd40 even makes aerosol can of it

WD-40 Specialist Protective White Lithium Grease Spray with SMART STRAW SPRAYS 2 WAYS, 10 OZ

u/JeanGuy17 · 3 pointsr/hoggit

I'm in France too and I bought the Nyogel from Amazon and got it for 35$ (with shipping)

u/eclectro · 2 pointsr/fixit

If it was me, I would put the bike horizontal (but make sure this is ok fluid wise, and with the manufactuerr's instruction manual), and I would use PB blaster on it for a week. And I do mean a week, and the PB Blaster brand only. I know that some may say a week is a bit long, but I have found that an extended period of time helps, as the metal expands/cools a number of days helping to draw the catalyst in.

Then I would get a dremel with this cut off wheel and use it to "notch" the head of the screw as deep as I could without hurting the surrounding metal. Then I would go to the store and find a flat head bit that will fit an impact driver, and it needs to be "impact quality" and "hardened". The impact driver needs to have a high torque..

Then, make sure that whatever bit you have fits securely in the notch you have created, use the impact wrench to break it loose, perhaps far enough that you can get the vise grips on it and finish bringing the bolt out. If you have not used an impact driver before, you should get some wood screws and a block of wood and practice so you are comfortable with it and know what to expect.

Then clean and chase the threads with the appropriate tap. And use an anti seize compound when re-installing the bolts.

I prefer this to drilling out and retapping the screw because he can get an OEM replacement bolt that will fit perfectly and not worry about the fit of a different bolt. Also, this method is actually less laborious (in my opinion) and he can always drill out and re-tap the screw if this does not work (but chances are good that it will).

I think the welding suggestion would work also, but OP may not have a welder. And if the OP wanted, he could use a regular heat gun on it a number of times (with the PB blaster) to expand and help crack the corrosion.

u/makaze · 2 pointsr/subaru

I used this:

It's been on my car for over a week and still tight :). Same Grimmspeed kit too.

I was worried about it slipping but so far so good, not a single movement.

u/Burned_it_down · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Anti-Seize or Anti-Seize

Grease or Grease or My personal favorite, Great wet/winter performance

Chain Lube I use Finish Line Wet. For chains I typically wax.

u/spicypancakes · 2 pointsr/infiniti

This is a great write up - love seeing this type of content.

To others thinking about doing this work yourself - it is extremely easy and can be done in the comfort of your driveway with some jack stands. The lift makes your life easier, but it's very doable without. Pay particularly close attention to loosing the the fill bolt before you loosen the drain bolt to save yourself the potential of calling a flatbed to bail you out of that jam.

Here's the fluid pump I bought that works great:

u/jsmith1300 · 2 pointsr/Honda

My suggestion is this, since you have no idea how well the car was taken care of or if it was changed at all, change it one time and drive it for a week. Then change it again and see if it helps. From there you can try 3rd party alernative if you want but these transmissions prefer OEM fluid. Not sure on this year but you typically remove the fill bolt first, then the drain bolt. Be sure to get new crush washers and clean off the debris from the drain plug. I use this pump to make it a breeze to get the fluid in with no mess. When the fluid starts to drip out you are done.

u/xEternalEcho · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

Most (if not all) greases are just too thick for bearings, you need something much thinner for bearings to run well on. A lot of people (myself included) think 10 weight nano oil seems to be just about the best, Some even prefer the thinner 5 weight nano oil.

Daiwa Reel Oil and food grade mineral oil(food safe option) are two more very common recommendations. Also just about any gun lube would be adequate as well. I'd personally recommend Hornady One-Shot Dry Lube as well, it's great stuff. Stay away from any organic based oils such as olive, vegetable, peanut, etc... as they'll tend to gum up and become rancid. Same thing with W(Water) D(Displacement) 40 as it's not a lube but a displacer of water and will also gum up the action of your knife.

Greases are better utilized on knives that run on washers, such as a Sebenza. I have personal experience with Tri-Flow Synthetic Grease and would definitely recommend it for some washer knives that seem to run a little better with a light application of grease such as the aforementioned Sebenza.

u/MegaStoke · 2 pointsr/tradclimbing

I'm probably gonna die, but I use a quick blast of automotive brake parts cleaner to get my cams clean, dry them with compressed air, and apply Liquid Wrench Teflon spray lube. Seems to get the cams good and clean without scrubbing, and keeps things nice and smooth operating for a long time without attracting gunk.

u/BurnySandals · 2 pointsr/TypewriterRepair

For cleaning use Mineral Spirits. If the letters have a thick coating of ink use a small brass brush with mineral spirits. (odorless mineral spirits are available at every hardware store. It is the safer modern equivalent to Varisol.)

If I am correct and the Smith Corona has a sealed bottom. You want to take the bottom plate off to clean it. Using a dropper or Q-tips put little amounts on all the moving parts and then move them letting excess mineral spirits drip out the bottom. Repeat until the part is clean and moves freely. Wipe gunk off from all the none moving parts.

Traditionally only certain parts of the typewriter are lubricated with 10w machine oil. (Sewing machine oil.) Everyone including me use too much the first time. But even if you use the proper amount dust still sticks to it.

Use Liquid Wrench Teflon spray to lubricate all the moving parts. (It is cheaper to get it from an auto parts store or Wal-Mart.) It works as well as 10w oil and because it is dry dust doesn't stick to it. Spray everywhere, quickly wipe it off anywhere you don't want a coating of white dust.

I recommend the Liquid Wrench because it worked best of all the ones I tried. Do not use the Dupont Teflon spray because its "Patented Bonding," agent means it is much harder to clean from anywhere you don't want it.

u/AFTERWAKE · 2 pointsr/Dirtbikes

It would help if you could identify the specific joints that are the noisiest. It's likely a combination of your rear shock, your swingarm's connection to the frame, and the subframe joints. Sometimes you can't do much with older bikes short of replacing the parts, but cleaning and greasing it should help you.

WD40 is simply a water displacement. It doesn't grease anything, it just helps remove the water, and it's especially helpful if youre trying to unscrew or pull out something and it's stuck, as it will temporarily lubricate what you spray it on.

If you want to get rid of squeaks in the joints, either get some spray lubricant(like a silicone based one, something like this) or you can tear the bike down and apply grease(just get a tub of it and it'll last you years, something like this) to a lot of the moving parts. The rear shock is something you definitely don't wanna be taking apart unless you know what you're doing, so try just putting grease on the outsides of the joints or getting spray lubricant and spraying it in the joints.

I recommend the grease method, as the silicone spray often doesn't do a long term job and it isn't nearly as water proofing. Try to find some videos of how to take apart dirt bikes, and apply those concepts to your bike. Every bike is different, but if you watch some klx 125 teardown videos, you'll catch on. Pretty much you can take off everything except the rear shock/swingarm and still be able to put it back on easily.

u/Fauropitotto · 2 pointsr/HomeMaintenance

Use a screw driver to pry off the cap. Check youtube to see what I mean.

Of course, you don't need to remove any of this to grease them, you can use any aerosol lubricant that is able to use volatiles as a carrier to deposit the lube into the joint, then evaporates leaving the lube in place.

Silicon spray is perfect for door hinges. Won't leave any visible nastiness either.

u/quasimodoca · 2 pointsr/Guitar

WD-40 is not meant to be used as a general lubricant. It strips most grease off of whatever it is sprayed on. I would use something like silicone spray or electronics grease to stop the squeaking.

Permatex 80070 Silicone Spray Lubricant

Super Lube(R) Multi-Purpose Grease

Since people are going to tell me I'm an idiot and that WD-40 is too a lubricant here is their own words on it.

WD-40® Myths, Legends & Fun Facts

u/don_the_spubber · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I followed a lube guide on here and lubed all my stabs with this lithium grease and it's been great. This stuff is super cheap and makes a world of difference.

u/someguy3 · 2 pointsr/Cartalk
u/BronyTheBarbarian · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

If the rotor is rubbing against the caliper bracket it has a distinct metal on metal sound, however if the hub is walking out what you might be hearing is the inside of the tire rubbing against the rear shock absorber casing. Maybe it is more noticeable when wet? Look at the shocks absorber for rub marks and also look over the tire itself for rub marks. (If you see wear on the inside part of the tire tread, that is a clue that your hub is walking out and needs to be replaced).

The sound could also just be the bearings themselves being bad and grinding down, but not sure why moisture would affect it.

But since the noise goes away after touching the brake pedal, it is most likely a caliper not sliding correctly. This often happens after pads are replaced and people use the wrong lubricant on the caliper pins and/or the pads. The pads need a synthetic grease, the caliper pins need a silicon paste.

u/meh-guy · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Hi, I want to try to build my first custom mechanical keyboard soon. I think I have everything sorted out, but I want to know if I'm making any mistakes. This is my part list:

  • DZ65RGB kit, with brass plate. Also with the upgrade to GMK screw-in stabilizers you can select when buying it.
  • Zealios v2 62g. Everyone seems to like these, so I thought I'd try them. I chose the lightest weight because I want it to have faster actuation for gaming.
  • Keycaps? I haven't found a keycap set I really liked. I wanted DSA profile, but I couldn't find a PBT set with a color scheme I liked. If anyone has any suggestions, I'd like to hear them.
  • Super Lube mixed with other super lube to lube the switches. The most common lube is a bit too expensive, and I found someone who used this as a cheaper alternative. It seemed to work for them.
u/Aezoc · 2 pointsr/hotas

I just used Super Lube on an old stick I'm tearing down and rebuilding. It works fine, although since I just did it I don't know yet how long it will last.

u/jescereal · 2 pointsr/flashlight

I personally just use silicone grease from home depot, but I've read great things about Super Lube.

u/Samurai_TwoSeven · 2 pointsr/airsoft

Super Lube Grease and Oil

u/gilbadon · 2 pointsr/MTB

Simple bike maintenance you need a multitool with:
allen wrenches (metric 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm)
screwdrivers (flat, Phillips, and Torx T-25)

With that alone, you can do most minor bike maintenance. You SHOULD however also buy some lube for bolts, nuts, pivots and more. Almost anytime you take something apart that is not the chain, when putting it back on you want to lube it. I use the following:

You also want chain lube. A must have if you want your drive train to last which is basic maintenance as well. You can buy a crap brush to clean it on a regular basis or a full blown kit.

Tire levers and a pump or compressor are also a must. There is always one reason or another why a tire will need to be removed.

u/XTechHeroX · 2 pointsr/airsoft
u/tealplum · 2 pointsr/Audi

The EGR system is just a bunch of hoses. Look at the diagram on this page and check those hoses for brittleness, leaks, or cracks. Also check the check valves. Over time they can look like they are almost melting? It's hard to explain, but if you know what they are you'll know what I'm talking about when you see it. There's also an "L" shaped plastic hose that comes out of the crankcase. Check it. It has a tendency to explode. Not a big deal if it does, you just lost HP and MPG til it's fixed. Oh and you leak oil.

Look at this preventative maintenance guide that a guy on the Audi forums posted. Read through each of them to learn about the car and check for them while inspecting.

If you are into DIY stuff, check the [Audi DIY] ( site. If you can't find it, google it. There's probably a writeup somewhere.


  • If you drive with a heavy foot you'll get around 18 MPG. Drive nicely and you can get 25 or so.

  • Never put anything less than 91 octane fuel in it. If you absolutely must, go into the store and buy octane booster.

  • Always use synthetic oil, and make sure you buy the larger filter. WIX makes a decent one for a good price. Also make sure you use the right type of oil. I used Royal Purple for a year until I got some pretty bad sludge. Yeah it's not on the list. Oils on the list have addatives that mitigate engine sludging.

  • Buy yourself some lithium grease and use it on your door hinges and sunroof each time you change your oil. The doors get squeaky and the sunroof can get choppy.

  • The turbo on the 1.8t is too small. It takes longer to cool down so if you drive like a maniac and turn it off it's going to cook your oil into sludge. Drive nicely once you're close to your destination and give the car 30 seconds to cool down. Or buy a turbo timer.

  • Buy a seat cover. If the seat isn't ripped yet it will be.

    This car will cost you more money than you want in repairs and maintenance. If you like to DIY it's not too bad. I saved 700 dollars doing my own timing belt+water pump+ tensioners. I still spent 500 between tools and parts but the DIY made it cheaper.

    That's all I can remember from my first post. If I remember anything else I'll add it in a new comment.
u/arcanemachined · 2 pointsr/prusa3d

Hey another commentor made me look into it again. It seems like Super Lube (synthetic grease with PTFE/Teflon) (Amazon link) is what is recommended these days.

The other two I mentioned before have been used by a lot of people over the years and I haven't heard anything bad about them, but the folks at Prusa seem to be recommending Super Lube these days (links here and here).

FWIW, I use machine oil and I'm going to keep using machine oil. As the second link mentions, mixing lubricants can cause reactions between the old and the new stuff which can wreck your shit.

Hope this helped.

u/Thanhtacles · 2 pointsr/Nerf

White lithium grease wont kill your orings, but many claim that it's a rather thick and stiff lube, thus not being optimal for plunger systems. For any other application it's fine. YMMV, but I generally also dislike it for this reason.

SuperLube synthetic grease is a favorite. Sticks well, great application range, durable. It's thinner than WL, but if it's too thick, my little trick to making it looser is to add a little bit of silicon oil and give it a good mix before applying it. Silicon oil btw is the grease you'll notice when you first open up your blasters; I found out when I emailed buzzbee and hasbro asking for what they use. It's very slick, and very thin. I find making use of both resulted in best of both worlds.

u/kungfu_jesus · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

You can find this at your local hardware store. Stab rattle can also be caused by the quality of the stab and size of wire. If you can remove and/or replace them easily I highly recommend genuine cherry stabs with this lube. The thicker wires and plastic used really help to tighten things up. I'm going on at least a month strong and no resurgence of rattle.

u/DocmanCC · 2 pointsr/Tools

I switched from Super Lube (which is great, I use it everywhere) to Permatex Ultra Engine Assembly Lube aka Red Lube of Love for my higher tooth-count ratchets. That stuff is extremely slick and sticky. Rats glide effortlessly, noticeably better than Super Lube. However, it is more quiet, so if you're the kind who feels or listens for the clicks you may not like it as much.

u/GooberMcNutly · 2 pointsr/IAmA

I haven't fixed those in particular, but a fat blob of o-ring compatible grease will keep most in place until assembly. For water o-rings I like Super Lube

u/portedtoreality · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I think the same machine oil you use for CNC will work, but I use sewing machine oil to lube the X and Y rods (couple drops) whenever they feel "dry" to the back of my finger:

For Z-axis, I use PTFE synthetic grease (drops all along the Z axis) like this every... 6 months?:

Also, make sure the extruder gears aren't grinding/biting into the filament too much and getting filament poo poo buildup all over the gears.

Spare nozzle, hotend, thermistor (I've only had to replace a hotend once in 2 years and also because I made a dumb mistake).

Don't be afraid to ask for help when you aren't sure because if you screw up, you may damage your printer.

u/Kabong · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Have you tried lubricating the z-axis threaded rod? It's not mentioned anywhere in the assembly guide, but I found that a liberal application of super lube did wonders for my RepRapPro Mendel. The Z axis used to bind constantly when it moved too fast and now it's perfect.

u/itsZiz · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I wanted to share my first experience with switch swapping. I was nervous because so many people said the Leopold was hard to desolder and this was my first time soldering any thing. But it all went really well, so I wanted to share in case any one else is thinking about it plus some info that might be useful to you veterans as well.

One part of keyboard customization I don't see addressed much is deadening the ping and case sound. Some people add foam to the bottom, but I found going between the PCB and Plate reduces sound a LOT. This baby is stuffed like a turkey and sounds amazing.

I've also seen a lot of people saying how great the Engineer solder sucker is. While the build quality is nice I'm not sure its worth $25, and most of the performance was because of the silicon tip. So I just added one to a cheap sucker and it worked great. I was worried about the temp as it says it isn't rated up to 350c but it worked great with barely any discoloring, and for like $1 you get 3ft so it basically lasts forever.


Links -

Neoprene $12 1/8" -

Soldering Station $37 -

Solder Sucker $5 -

Silicon Tube 5x7mm $1 -

DSA Caps $35 -

Super Lube $5 -


I realized I really don't like the DSA keycap profile but this was a really nice set, pretty thick and great dye sub printing, way more crisp than my Enjoy PBT Cherry profile set I've been using.


I didn't have any lifted pads or issues at all despite me being a total noob. Using a 2.4mm chisel tip and my solder sucker combo worked really well. Just stuck the flat tip on flat side (top/bottom) of the soldered stem, let it heat up for about 5-6 seconds and then sucked. At 350c on my soldering Iron most guides said this was too long but i didn't have any issues, and going quicker left a lot of residue.

Also with the silicon tip I didn't have to move the soldering tip and place the sucker over the stem (doing this fast before the solder cools down is a pita) because of the silicon I just pressed it on top with the soldering iron still heating and sucked all at once. DEFINITELY worth the $1, made the process so much easier.

I also used Super Lube for all my lubing. This is what a lot of people use for the stabilizers as its really thick but then use expensive stuff for the switches. I just used a very small amount (scrape your brush off and then wipe it on so you can barely see it but its shiny). Worked great, no ping from the springs and very smooth and a $5 tube will last forever.


I want to do another now! need to decide on what type of switches I might like more than these super light 35g box reds. Maybe some speed switches? And I'll want to do a good solid metal case.

Overall I'm just super happy the whole thing worked without any problems. I get to use my really good Leopold plate/base/pcb (i really like the led under caps/num lock to let you know its on) with switches I like more!


If any one has any questions or needs help doing their first switch swap let me know, I'm 1 for 1 haha.

u/gabedamien · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Recommend checking out the vintage section at bikeforums. Some tricks:

An oxalic acid bath for a day or so works well for removing rust from steel (but don't use it on aluminum). Flitz polish, which I used for a lot, requires a lot of "elbow grease" but gets a good shine on things – including paint (make sure the decals are below the clearcoat!), but it does strip the satin anodizing off of aluminum. WD-40 removes a lot of dried-on crud that mere soap and water fail to solvate. If a brake bolt is rusted into the frame, drip WD-40 onto it, use a block of wood as a buffer and smash it with a hammer. If the quill stem is stuck/rusted, unscrew the stem bolt a few mm, use a buffer and smash it with a hammer. - this will loosen the expander wedge. Turning the seatpost (keep the saddle attached) in one constant direction while pulling up is the best way to gradually remove it if it's stuck - twisting it back and forth will gouge it in a particularly ugly fashion. Um... get an adjustable (aka "crescent") wrench, I don't think a single nut on this bike worked with my normal wrenches.

That's all I can think of at the moment. Basic bike stuff also applies, like greasing the threads of every bolt and (almost) every metal-metal contact point (the cranks are supposed to be a dry press fit, though!), and lubing all the pivots & springs & whatnot. I like synthetic SuperLube with PTFE for grease, and a dry chain lube with Teflon for lubricant.

u/bigj231 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Bah. Save your money and go to your local hardware store. Tell them you want some clear grease like superlube. It's cheaper and perfectly fine for this kind of stuff.

Like this:

u/dankchia · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

> costar stabs are the worst!

Fight me.

They do the job of stabilizing keys far far better than cherry style ones. Way less wiggle, much smoother and if you lube them; Hooh baby. Recommend this stuff.

Easiest way to get them on is to take both plastic inserts, and thread them into the wire on the board. Align them so you can put the cap on, and then do so slowly. Once you get the hang of it, the difference between the two is negligible. Some grease helps with the alignment process thanks to the viscosity.

u/Trollygag · 2 pointsr/guns

Dis kind

Have also used dis but doggo chewed the tube so no mo squeezy.

u/Yonkiman · 2 pointsr/voroncorexy

IIRC, Super Lube is the Voron-approved grease.

u/Wolf_Hook · 2 pointsr/ar15

I've been using this grease on my CH and BCG. So far it's been great.

u/BigTung · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

$80 Zealios V2 67g Switches (These are 20% off right now if you want to get them cheaper!)

$160 KBDFans DIY Kit (Tofu Case, DZ60RGB PCB, Polycarbonate Plate, Stabilizers, Screws, USB C Cable, etc)

$25 Keycaps

$5 Super Lube 21030 (for lubing stabilizers)

Total Cost: $270


Next Upgrades:

$30 - Zeal Transparent Gold Plated PCB Mount Screw-in Stabilizers V2

$67 - Blue Zilents V2 Switches (Silent Tactile)

$8 - Tribosys 3204 Switch Lubricant

$75 - EPBT x biip Extended 2048 PBT Keycaps Set

u/HungryMacaroon · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Can I use Super Lube 21030 to get rid of the crunchy noise my aftermarket springs make, or is it too thick?

Thanks in advance!

u/jamiehofer · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Honestly as long as you purchase the aluminum Y-axis plate and use spacers alongside my Z-axis bed leveler you will get just as nice results. If you have a wood Y-axis plate you may not want to use spacers and possibly look into auto bed leveling solution.

I use something like this for lubricant:

As for the spacers I use aluminum spacers that are (I think) 1/4" OD 1/4" Length >3mm ID. Aluminum while the difference is most likely very little, it still is slightly better. I just would recomend going to a hardware store and finding spacers with an OD of 1/4" and length of 1/4" the ID does not matter as long as you can fit a 3mm bolt through it. Best to find something with a somewhat thick wall.

u/Gnascher · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Amazon carries it, but any local auto supply store should carry it.

u/RobAtSGH · 2 pointsr/Volkswagen

The hood latches tend to seize up over time, especially if you don't lubricate them occasionally. Had the same problem on my Mk5 Jetta. If it's seized and not a broken cable, you can generally fix it pretty easily.

You need three things: a small screwdriver, a can of lightweight break-free lube like Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster penetrating oil, and a can of spray lithium lube.

Pop the safety latch and prop the hood. Locate the hood latch assembly. Using the precision tube on the spray lube, saturate the inside of the latch and latch plate with the penetrating oil (try to keep overspray from rubber parts). Let sit for 30 seconds or so, and then press on the open side of the latch with the screwdriver until the latch plate releases and locks. Pull the hood release in the cabin to reset. Repeat several times until the latch snaps closed freely when you press on it with the screwdriver. Respray with penetrator if necessary.

Use a shop towel to mop up as much penetrating oil as you can and spray the entire inside of the latch assembly with as much spray lithium as it will hold. Work the mechanism a few more times to get it into the pivot and latch plate as much as possible. Re-saturate with lithium grease and button up.

Every time you change your oil, you should relubricate the hood latch with spray lithium to keep this from happening.

EDIT: Linkies.

u/The_Real_Roberts · 2 pointsr/pics

Either dry graphite lube like this, available at any Wal-Mart, Target, or auto parts store, or if you want the really good stuff then try something like this molybdenum-based lubricant.

Either way, instead of just applying it to the outside of the hinge like you can with WD-40 (because it's a penetrating oil and will sink into the joints), with either of the above you would want to remove the pins from the hinges, anoint the pins with the lube, and then rehang the door.

At that point you can prepare to enjoy years of squeak-free hinges.

On the other hand, at my house the dreaded previous owner sprayed all the hinges with WD-40. I 100% guarantee they were smooth and silent for days or even weeks afterward.

Then the WD-40 dried in place, created a thin layer of basically lacquer inside the hinge, that layer was then ground into sharp particles of lacquer dust by the moving hinge parts, and those dust particles served as abrasives which ground the interior surfaces of the hinge into metallic dust. Yes, dust. It seeps from every hinge in the house, if you run your finger along the hinge you get metallicized and it won't wash off for days, and boy howdy do they all squeak ridiculously.

Please please please don't ever WD-40 a hinge, unless it belongs to a bad person you don't have the guts to kill.

u/DrColdReality · 2 pointsr/answers

If all you need is some graphite, and don't care where it comes from, a pencil is mostly graphite, and you can get graphite powder as a lubricant.

Making synthetic graphite requires serious lab gear, AFAIK, they superheat carborundum to produce it.

u/JOHNREDCORN · 2 pointsr/bicycling

You actually shouldn't use a liquid lubricant on a lock, it will attract and build up dust. Use graphite.

u/knoxer0 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Sorry... I've read this several times and I don't really know what you're wanting to do....

I do know that graphite dust isn't poisonous though, it's a very common lubricant, I've used it before

As far as being able to form graphite into shapes, I don't think that's going to work unless you have a high temp furnace and perhaps a hydraulic press....

u/Symbolis · 2 pointsr/pics

Just..not in locks please.

You want this stuff or similar.

u/[deleted] · 2 pointsr/AskReddit

If the lock on your house/car is sticky, or hard to work, try a few simple things. Grab some Graphite and shoot it into the keyhole. Also try some wd-40 in the latch. This will solve most problems that are not due to mechanical failure and cost much less than replacing / calling a locksmith. If your key won't work, try graphite in the keyway as well as tapping the lock with a hammer while working the key.

u/xj4me · 2 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

Have you tried lubricating it with dry graphite?

My ignition cylinder would bind too. All lock cylinders need to be lubricated periodically. Like once a year. Hammering it will only cause more damage

u/cybrian · 2 pointsr/n64

I wrote a huge comment here on how to refurbish a stick, but it was a reply to another comment that was deleted. The deleted comment mentioned Kitsch-Bent brand replacement gears, which I would recommend for sure. You can find them on google and on eBay. (And for the record I'm not associated with Kitsch-Bent, I've just used their product and I don't know of any competitors.)

Keep in mind they're not quite as good as brand new gears, but you can get a pack of 10 controllers' worth for significantly less than you'd spend on a single brand new controller.

In addition to this, here's how you refurbish the rest of the stick: I would highly recommend buying a jar of ceramic grease and applying it to the insides of the stick using a toothpick, or with a q-tip with the end cut off. This is the stuff I use.

You're only going to want to use a little bit. This jar will be enough for every N64 controller you ever repair. Seriously. The other bonus is that the ceramic microparticles embed themselves in the plastic, so instead of the assembly being dry plastic on plastic (which will rub itself to dust, literally) it becomes greased ceramic rubbing against ceramic. Theoretically it'll last forever, and practically it'll most certainly last "long enough."

You want to take the whole joystick assembly apart, keeping in mind the order and orientation of everything. Then you want to actually clean all of the parts as good as possible. (If you replace the gears then just throw the old ones out — don't bother cleaning them). There shouldn't be any plastic dust on them before you continue.

DO NOT REMOVE THE ROUND BLACK GEARS WITH SLOTS ALONG THE EDGES FROM THE WHITE BOWL. These gears are precision designed and are meant for sensing the displacement of the stick. If you fuck them up, your joystick is garbage. Heed my warning.

Now that the parts are all clean, put them together and grease them in this order:

  1. Insert the stick through the top part of the assembly further than normal, so the ball is past where it normally sits and the top of the stick is flush with the top of the assembly. Place it upside down on the table, so the insides are sticking up and the top of the stick is against the table. Then use a toothpick to grease the inner "slots" of the ball of the stick. Use VERY little grease here, and do NOT get any on the rest of the stick.
  2. Take the spring between each hand and tug it lightly to expand it. You want both ends of the spring to still be parallel to one another, so don't tug too hard. DO NOT GREASE THE SPRING.
  3. Place the smaller end of the spring into the top part of the joystick assembly. At this point, the top plastic should be sandwiched, so to speak, between the top of the joystick itself and the smaller end of the spring.
  4. Place the white ring, lip side down, on top of the spring. Now use your toothpick to apply very little ceramic grease to the exposed, flat side of the ring.
  5. The smaller gear holds the top assembly together, but before you put it on we want to grease it. Apply grease somewhat liberally to the oval inside that goes around the end of the stick. Put a little on the convex side, too, but try not to get much on the concave side. It isn't the end of the world if you do, but try not to.
  6. Notice the gears are shaped with D-shaped ends on their "axles." Apply a dab of grease on the flat side of these D-shaped ends.
  7. Lock the top half of the assembly back together by putting the smaller gear on. You want to insert the flat "tab" on the end of the stick through the gear, and then turn the gear 90°. The actual gear itself should be towards the top, and the tab should be perpendicular to the slot in the gear assembly.
  8. You should have, at this point, applied grease to: The slots in the ball of the joystick, the white plastic ring, the slot in the small gear, and the flat sides of the D-shaped ends of the small gear's "axles," and then put the top half of the assembly back together. Now go ahead and apply a little to the sides of the tab on the end of the stick, and a nice sized dab on its ball-shaped tip.
  9. Now we're done with the top half! Let's focus on the bottom half. Take it all apart, except do not attempt to remove the gears from the white bowl piece. Now clean everything, so there is no plastic dust at all.
  10. Make sure the white bowl part and its gears are completely dry, and don't apply any grease to any part of it yet. Look closely at the gears and notice there are slots in it. The joystick works because the optical sensors in the circuit board count the number of slots. If you have a steady hand, and you replaced the gears in your stick with Kitsch Bent gears, I suggest applying a very minuscule amount of grease along the teeth of the gears, and ONLY the teeth. If you get any on the part of the gears with slots, clean them very well. The joystick will not work if there are any contaminants the slots. If you don't have a steady hand, or these aren't replacement gears, don't bother greasing their teeth at all. The risk isn't worth it.
  11. Place the bowl/gear assembly back into the bottom half of the joystick assembly's shell. With the screw hole on the bottom, there should be one gear on the right-hand side, and one gear on top. Feel free to put the circuit board back on at this point, too.
  12. The white bowl is actually the most fragile part of the assembly, and the part that wears the most. That's why the "joystick dust" is white. To prevent that, apply a rather liberal amount (by which I mean maybe two or three dabs — we really don't want to use a lot of this stuff!) inside the bowl, and then use your toothpick to apply some to the "slots" along the edge.
  13. Now let's grease the larger gear. Don't apply any grease to the teeth of the gear unless they're new, Kitsch Bent gears and you have a steady hand. Do apply grease to the entirety of the slot part of the gear, so you're actually greasing the concave, convex, and inside of the slot part. Then get the little D-shaped axle ends like on the smaller gear, and drop it back into the bowl. This gear should mesh with the optical gear on the right-hand side of the bowl.
  14. Put the damn thing back together. Be careful to make sure the tab at the tip of the joystick fits into the slot on the larger gear, and that the teeth of the smaller gear are on the opposite side of the top assembly from the screw hole. Feel free to hold it together with your fingers and play with the stick a little before screwing it together, as you want to work some of the grease in further and you can easily take it back apart if something feels wrong.

    As long as you followed this carefully and made sure to not get any grease anywhere near the optical sensors, nor anywhere near the slots they sense your joystick should be as good as can be.

    I've purchased two brand new OEM N64 controllers, and I did this to both of them.
u/pandeomonia · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips

That's probably your brake pad ears rubbing against your brake clips. I had new pads and rotors installed and had the same problem until I took the pads out and lubed the clips and pad ears. It's about $18 a bottle and lasts forever. You might also want to pull your caliper pins and lube them up as well otherwise your caliper might be stuck pressing your pads into the rotors (use a different lube for that). Most dealer brake places don't do it, but good auto shops do (here's a South Main Auto brake change video).

u/CalT2410 · 2 pointsr/FRC

We've got a tube of this that works wonders on all sorts of gearboxes.

u/ParaBrutus · 2 pointsr/ar15

I have been trying hi-temp wheel bearing grease for six months and have been very happy so far. For $5-10 you can get a 16 oz tub that will outlast your rifle. I like it because it does not evaporate like aerosolized lubricants after months in storage and it does not burn off like most firearm oils.

There is some debate in the forums about whether greases containing graphite could potentially accelerate corrosion within the receiver but you can easily find synthetic greases without it. I am using the Mag 1 grease and have not noticed any corrosion so far, and it does contain graphite.

u/some_kid6 · 2 pointsr/ender3

Mine's significantly quieter with some grease. Got a lb of it for like $8 years ago.

u/psycho944 · 2 pointsr/ar15

I just use Mag 1 grease and it’s worked extremely well in handguns and rifles. And wicked cheap.

u/chunkyks · 2 pointsr/DIY

I have no knowledge of gun specifics, but I do a fair bit of work on motorcycles/cars/etc.

> I found a small amount of lube was necessary to allow the stock to be easily adjusted, but be careful here as grit likes to stick to lube.

That's where I'd typically end up using a graphite lube of some sort. Sprays on wet, drys to actually dry.

u/Blovnt · 2 pointsr/Leatherman

I used a bit of dry graphite lube on the pivot points of my Leatherman when it was new.

u/Godly1n · 2 pointsr/Miata
u/dsatrbs · 2 pointsr/kia

rub the seals of the door with silicone grease (the best is Honda Shin-Etsu Silicone, but any cheap tube of silicone grease would probably do fine). I would imagine that pam would get sticky/tacky after awhile and be counterproductive.

u/QuiteARoughCustomer · 2 pointsr/FiestaST

I know some people swear by this stuff to help rejuvenate the rubber. I use this as preventative maintenance on my visible rubber seals, but it definitely won't help restore seals that are already sun-damaged.

u/novareddit32 · 2 pointsr/300zx

Ah I see what you mean now. I can’t recall seeing that for sale anywhere. Is yours leaking or cracked?

When I had a ttop Z and I had a little leak, I bought this grease off Amazon that kind of brought the rubber back to life and softened it up and “thickened” it out if that makes any sense.

Honda Genuine 08798-9013 Silicone Grease

u/Astronom3r · 2 pointsr/Miata

Since your car is 15 years old it could very well be that your window guides are rotted and falling apart. I have the Delrin replacement kit from RSpeed and it's awesome. Took me about an hour per door, and that's just because I'm slow meticulous. Don't forget to clean everything and regrease all moving parts with ShinEtsu (accept no substitute).

u/NismoGrendel · 2 pointsr/Miata

Thats awesome, you dont need to mangle the cables now.

Unbolt window, pull it out following that guide. Also check out this guide which has some good info to get regulator/motor out:

There are a bunch of youtube vids that also show how to pull regulator, might be useful to watch a couple to see different explanations/angles/techniques.

You should be able to unbolt the regulator and the window motor, unclip the clips that hold the cables to the door, then remove both together thru the hole by your speaker.

Pry open the motor case and see if your wheel/cable is screwed. If it is, the quickest fix is to buy something like that amazon link below. I have seen other articles where they just replace the plastic wheel and get a cable made at a motorcycle shop. Buying the part was simplest so thats what I did.

Also, go ahead and order this shin etsu grease:

Use that on your window channels, the slot the window bushing slides in, etc.

You can also replace your window bushing w/ a delrin bushing - I haven't done this yet.

I just cleaned up my existing bushing and lubed it up with shin etsu grease.

My windows aren't perfect yet but they go up and down now, I'm going to tear into both sides in the future and clean them up/replace bushings.

u/rmm2000 · 2 pointsr/hotas

Amazon is ALMOST a Canadian supplier:
This is enough for three or four lifetimes...
Only thing magic about it is the dampening effect. If you don't care about smooth drag, like a throttle, there are cheaper solutions.

u/Mishellereine · 1 pointr/fountainpens

Yup found it on

Silicone grease from

u/bombala · 1 pointr/Miata

This turned out more expensive than I expected because of the tools. Can somebody confirm that I'm buying the right stuff for the job? Am I forgetting anything?
Doesn't have to be Amazon, it's just convenient. 1994 Miata.

u/aleakydishwasher · 1 pointr/Justrolledintotheshop

Lift the jeep as high as you can. Rest frame on jack stands and let the axle droop. Then hit it with one of these.

I will never try and fill the rear end with out one again

u/leftnose · 1 pointr/Shotguns

They do make "gun grease." However, there's nothing special about it and it's just repackaged grease in small tubes that are actually pretty convenient.

Go to your local auto parts store and buy yourself a 1 lb. tub of Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease. It'll cost you less than $10 and that'll be about what you pay for 1 oz. of "Gun Grease." The only limitation to this is that you can't throw it in your shooting bag and keep it handy whenever you're shooting.

If you want a tube of something, I like Triflow or Krieghoff Gun Glide.

At the end of the day, though, it's most important to keep the grease clean. When you're done shooting, wipe it off and reapply.

u/GrosseFahrt · 1 pointr/cars

You could try Liquid Wrench Dry Lubricant. I dont have any experience with it. But reading some Amazon reviews, it sounds like it would work.

u/Siegfried262 · 1 pointr/fffffffuuuuuuuuuuuu

Everyone's had this happen to them at least once, haha.

Fun fact though, if you happen to have it around, silicon spray like this will disperse the bubbles very quickly and ease cleanup.

u/knightofargh · 1 pointr/hockeyplayers

That will work, but I prefer aerosol sprays for my hockey gear. It's all chemically identical. Just spray it on and wipe it down with a rag.

Permatex 80070 Silicone Spray Lubricant, 10.25 oz. net Aerosol Can

u/ArizonaLad · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

My local window guy out here looked at your picture and suggested that this was a bad idea. His reasoning was that the frame that you want to attach it to is pretty thin. He is worried that if you apply too much force, you'd pull the frame away from the glass, ruining the seal. Then the glass would be loose, and it could leak in a storm. Not to mention condensation between the panes.

If the reason you want to do this is because it takes too much effort to open the window, I suggest that you vacuum all the dirt and debris out of the window track, then use some spray lubricant to make it easier to operate:

u/kcpwnsgman · 1 pointr/GunPorn

No problem. You'll probably be cleaning lint etc mostly from it if you plan to carry it around. I tend to go a little overboard when I clean my guns, but I typically don't clean my rifles/shotguns all that frequently and will go between multiple thousands of rounds before I do.

When I clean my guns I use a mat like this to absorb oils etc and this to get all of the black carbon out of it. I use these to clean the bore/inside of the barrel. I use these and these for the hard to reach places that still have something building up on them.

When you're done cleaning everything, you'll want to make sure you put oil/grease on all the components that come in contact with other parts. Basically if it rolls oil it, if it slides grease it. I use this on the slide/rails where they contact each other and use this in most other places. Then I'll wipe down the exterior with this.

Really all you have to make sure you do is get most of the debris out of the gun, and make sure you have oil on surfaces that create friction or need some kind of rust preventative coating.

u/Polikonomist · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Any lithium based grease, this is the one I use and it works well:

u/spilk · 1 pointr/LaserDisc

should be able to find it just about anywhere, it's pretty common stuff. I have this kind, but any other brand would probably be fine:

u/Vubor · 1 pointr/NewSkaters

Someone here on reddit posted something like this will also work.


But I cant confirm this!

u/chidizzle · 1 pointr/longboarding

Can you post a link of the product(red lithium grease from Walmart). I saw your pics back when and looked at walmart and couldn't find it, I got some white lithium grease on Amazon. Did you buy the syringe at Walmart also?

u/Network_operations · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/AAA515 · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

You talking about this stuff which I was told to put on the slide pins and "ears" of the brake pads? Or this other stuff which clearly advertises stopping squeaks but I've never used and really don't know where I'm supposed to apply it?

Also where am I supposed to apply it and what is the difference between them? Could I use both? Also can I use it on my motorcycle because the front brake squeaks constantly even tho the pads are fine?

u/mirinfashion · 1 pointr/Cartalk

If those slide pins end up seizing, you'll probably end up with uneven brake pad wear and random noises coming from your brakes (this is caused because the brake pads are still in contact with the rotor even if you release the brakes Those pins are what guides the pads to the rotor at the correct angle. If they're seized, you'll end up with stuck calipers that grind even if you're not braking. The grease is cheap, so there really isn't a reason not to do it. The bottle below will last a lifetime. Also, make sure those rubber boots are intact, if they're ripped, replace them.

u/240pMan · 1 pointr/retrogaming

Superlube Synthetic grease also works great, is safe to use on plastic and is non-toxic. You can find it here, It comes in various sizes. You can also purchase a 14oz cartridge of it for a few dollars more but I prefer to have it in a plastic tube.
Some people that have used white lithium grease have said that it can dry up a bit and clump up over time. I did a lot of research before deciding on the best grease to use for the N64 joystick.

u/crj3012 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Over on GeekWack there was some special blend floating around, but it was going for the same price is cocaine. I would suggest this one if you want to go cheaper.

u/Breadland · 1 pointr/n64

Ah, I did manage to find the grease you mentioned.
It's this one, right?

Thanks for the advice!

u/ChelseaManning · 1 pointr/Coffee

Sure -- i edited my comment to say REGREASE not DEGREASE for the valve... typo

this is the stuff i use

u/phlatcappr · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/elahd · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I also have a self-built i3 that was loud when first built. I was able to cut down on noise by doing the following:

  1. Added rubber feet to all printer parts that touch whatever the printer is sitting on. My printer was turning my hollow IKEA table into giant soundboard.
  2. Added stepper motor vibration dampers (the type sold here) to X and Y steppers.
  3. Adjusted the current on my stepper motor drivers. Too high or too low will cause noise.
  4. Fiddled with bearing alignment on X and Y carriages. They're loud if even slightly out of alignment.
  5. Added a larger, slower spinning fan to my E3D hotend with an adapter found on Thingiverse.
  6. Cleaned my linear rods with rubbing alcohol and lubricated with PTFE lubricant. I used Finish Line Dry Teflon Lube, but any will do. (As an aside, you should also use synthetic grease on your threaded rods. Nothing to do with noise, but will help extend the life of your parts.)

    Also, periodically make sure that all nuts are tight. They tend to loosen from vibration allowing washers to rattle around.

    My next step will probably be using IGUS Drylin bearings in place of my ball bearing LM8UUs, but this plan is on hold while I consider switching to a CoreXY configuration.

    Hope this helps!
u/absspaghetti · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Lithium grease is more for weather resistance and heavy duty. I wouldn't use anything heavier than the ptfe silicone.

Honestly though $6.82 and free shipping

That stuff is really good and not too heavy.

u/galoisfieldnotes · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Without lube, they are smoother than other stabilizers I've tried. But with lube, I can't say I notice a big difference in actual use, so the Zeal stabilizers might not be worth the price premium. You should at least get genuine Cherry stabilizers and some lube, though.

u/yanfali · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

So use

u/GTechAirsoft · 1 pointr/airsoft

Super Lube 21030 Translucent White Color 3 oz. Automotive Accessories

u/PaultheSloth · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

No idea why Dielectric Grease price gone so weird on Amazon. Have you considered looking at eBay?

u/jakeish_atelier · 1 pointr/ender3

This is what I use. Big improvement in prints.
Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube

u/Sorrowind · 1 pointr/airsoft
u/oFAILIXo · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I used this for my stabilizers: Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube by Super Lube

If you can still reach the points where the wire is having contact with the oring (seems like you can) with a small paintbrush, you can still apply lube.

u/AirsoftSniperz · 1 pointr/airsoft

No, but similar. It's [this one] ( There's a bit of grease still clinging to the gears, in a film, so I think i'm just applying too much

u/artist508 · 1 pointr/airsoft

RC shock oil in the 30-50 weight range is dirt cheap.

You are thinking of Super Lube

u/ListenBeforeSpeaking · 1 pointr/watercooling

Yes. If you outer chamfer the tube edge, it will prevent the tube edge from catching on the o-ring.

Additionally, you can lightly lube the o-ring (see Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube Lubing will allow the tube to go in much easier while still maintaining a seal. You want the lightest coating you can do. I use a foam tip art brush applicator.)

u/Aesomatica · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

You can go with Techkeys, or 1UpKeyboards, or I typically will use Superlube (there are a couple different types of lubricant under that brand, so make sure you are getting the right one) The one I linked above has worked great for me.

Don't overdo it, look up a guide.

And remember to put your stabs in before you solder. I've screwed that up twice.

u/gogosolar · 1 pointr/fountainpens

there are some videos here... about disassembly - get your self some silicone grease and put 'Small smear' of grease on the seal before you reassemble the converter. One small tube is basically a life-time supply - several brands to choose - just make sure it is a clear silicone grease Some pen companies sell it as well - example

u/SirTimmyTimbit · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I'm getting my YMD96 kit delivered on Thursday. I want to clip and lube my stabilizers based on Kim's video.

I can find Dielectric Grease locally here in Toronto but I can't find any Finish Line Teflon Grease, or any other teflon grease for that matter.

Ordering 205g0 will take 6-10 days from Apex. Here are my other, immediate options:

u/unicornloops · 1 pointr/prusa3d

I believe that grease is actually ideal for bearings over oil in terms of longevity of the application and I was recommended some superlube synthetic PTFE grease. It’s pretty cheap on amazon and there are printable bearing packers on thingiverse you can use to get it all the way in the races. (Just noticed you said you didn’t have access to it!)

I actually didn’t have grease when I built it so I used some synthetic PTFE oil on the rods and that has seemed to be fine. From the good article below, the important thing is that you don’t apply different (synthetic vs. non-synthetic) lubricants at the same time. Hence ideally you degrease the oil they are shipped in with isopropanol before applying more oil/grease. However, I read that the shipping oil is synthetic so I just applied the synthetic PTFE oil to the rods without de-greasing. I am just about to tear down and revise the bearings with grease the proper way myself actually.

So bottom line is that if your oil with PTFE is synthetic you can just apply it directly, but the ideal would be to de-grease and then apply grease of your choice.

Here’s a great resource (though the link is borked with the new prusa site—google “set your bearings straight” and it’s the first one that comes up):

And the superlube: Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube

Thingiverse link:

u/Metro-Redneck · 1 pointr/Tools

I use Super Lube in my old S-K ratchets. Made them a lot quieter and very smooth.

Honestly thought, I don't think it really makes much of a difference what grease you use, as long as it's not low viscosity so it doesn't seep out of the ratchet.

u/JBTownsend · 1 pointr/hoggit

Save yourself $20 and grab this:

I lubed up my Hog 2 years ago and while I'm about due for a re-apply, it's still smoother than it was OOB. It has not eaten the plastic.

u/zombimuncha · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I use this stuff. It came highly rated by some prominent GH'ers, and it made the stabilized keys on my V80 sound, and feel, so good!

It's 10 quid right now but I only paid £4.50, so maybe shop around a little more?

u/RebootRevival · 1 pointr/consolerepair

Depends on the plastic. If you are referencing automotive lubes then yea dont use lithium grease for auto plastics. But for the plastics in analog sticks, it should be fine.
Personally I use this for my game stuff.

u/RyanCacophony · 1 pointr/EliteDangerous

I used this

and they accidentally sent me an entire box of like 10 tubes (lol) but it worked.

I also found that I needed to loosen the tension plates a bit to et the resistance I wanted

u/thebearjuden · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

This stuff is what I just grabbed. Will be here tomorrow.

u/Unrated77 · 1 pointr/Tools
u/BickNlinko · 1 pointr/Fixxit

I also forgot that if you're working on a old bike like that, go and get some Liquid Wrench. Use it on all your rusty nuts and bolts before you start working on something.

u/indigohippo · 1 pointr/Honda

Hmmm, have you tried spraying some Liquid Wrench or other similar product on it?

u/Kross07 · 1 pointr/Cartalk

Have you tried a little graphite into the lock to maybe lube it enough to loosen the cylinder?

For reference, I mean powder graphite like this:

powder graphite

u/Jasonwayne27 · 1 pointr/Cartalk

Thanks, I'll try the graphite powder first. Will any graphite powder do? I looked up this. I will probably try to get a remote as well. Will a remote for the car work right away once programmed or does a car need to have a system installed? Thanks for the help!

u/CheetyPants · 1 pointr/xbox360

The only time I ever had an issue with my elite was after having it for a long long time(about five years as well) chances ate it's the same issue I had which was the pancake motor not spinning well more and more each day.
I went online and asked if I could grease it up with WD40, but was told because of how fast the discs spin it would evaporate real quick. Got suggested to use ceramic brake grease because of it's high temp tolerance.

Permatex 24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant, 8 oz.

Hadn't had a disc problem since. All you need to do is take the part that disc sits on off of the motor, grease up the lil rod, put it back together, and you should be fine.

Also you should be able to get the grease in an auto parts store really cheap, usually up by the registers in little test packets.

u/galactica_pegasus · 1 pointr/Volvo

Mine have been quiet. MUCH better brakes than my previous Acura. The Acura didn't stop as well and had much more of a "pulsing" feeling. The only downside to the Volvo brakes is they do generate a LOT of black brake dust. But just wash your car and it's gone!

If you're getting a squeak when breaking then I'd suggest cleaning and re-lubricating the brake hardware. You can have a shop do this, or if you do it yourself, this is a great lubricant:

u/E580BAEDA44A · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice


The front caliper piston on most vehicles do move in and out, but the back piston generally needs to threaded back in, and would need a tool.

A generic clamp of any kind is fine for retracting a push-in piston, you just need to be slow and patient with it. Don't crank the clamp all at once, turn it about 1/8th of a turn and wait 20 seconds, and again. Make sure to use something which won't harm the piston face; Wood works well. Make sure the clamp is straight and the piston is going back in straight.

If rust is an issue in your area get some penetrant like PB Blaster or something and try to get the bolts soaking before it's time for the repair, if possible.

Make sure you have the proper lubricants, and the proper grease for the slider pins. Lube the piston mating surface(s) and the ears of the pads with a film of quality ceramic/synthetic brake grease. Not a GLOB, a film.

Make sure to clean up the shims and replace them if they are at all damaged or deformed. A film of grease where the shims mate to the caliper bracket is a good idea as well.

Be sure to avoid getting the grease/lube on any braking/friction surfaces such as the rotor or pad faces. Rotors can be cleaned with a rag and brake clean.

Make sure the tattle-tale, if present, is going in the correct direction. Make sure the pads are mounted properly. Try to reference the pads your removing first.

If you're replacing Rotors and/or replacing pads with a different compound, you should follow a "bed in procedure." A general bed-in is a few very light brakes from low speed like stop and go traffic, a few stops from 10-20 mph sort of riding the brakes holding them till you roll to a stop, and then one or two good "emergency stops" with a firm foot planted from 20-30mph. This will help ensure that friction material is transferred into the rotor surface which helps ensure proper stopping power.

I hope this helps.

u/Silverkarn · 1 pointr/Justrolledintotheshop

Those are both the same?

The stuff i used is green in color and specifically says can be used on caliper slide pins.

This stuff:

It does say on the packaging that its safe on gaskets, rubber, and plastics.

EDIT: well, looks like i'm buying some of the silicone based hi temp caliper lube.

u/BeastroMath · 1 pointr/MTB

You could try pulling all the bolts that attach your caliper and rotor. Clean all mounting surfaces and retourqu all mounting bolts (put a little bit of grease or locktite on bolt threads). You might also put a tiny dab of grease on all mounting surfaces for the caliper, one dude suggested a tiny dab of this behind the pad (not sure I'm on board with this).

Here is a decent pinkbike article and a recent reddit thread with the aforementioned advice.

Make sure you are mounting the caliper so it is contacting the rotor squarely.

Lastly, if you are absolutely stymied, it may be a bad caliper.

u/zefpomp · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Permatex 85188 Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube -

that is what I use

Guess I have to upgrade to Permatex 24125, after I just bought 8oz of the other stuff :(

u/Cronus_k98 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

You should be able to find it in a squeeze tube at any auto parts store, that's probably better then a tub for this anyway.

u/lurkinsince07 · 1 pointr/ar15

high temp grease will last a long time

u/Moutooz · 1 pointr/AskReddit

Maybe your joints just need some greasing up. Here you go:

u/na_im_good · 1 pointr/DelSol
u/agent_of_entropy · 1 pointr/cars

It's a whopping $1.02 cheaper here.

u/tadfisher · 1 pointr/Miata

Why did you link to the non-prime listing?

Happy Prime Day

u/Coompa · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

You can go over the rubber with a silicone lubricant on a cloth. May help the wind noise.

u/MuadDave · 1 pointr/amateurradio

Depending on how its configured, you might consider spray lithium 'grease' (after cleaning out the existing crud with an appropriate solvent). It is waterproof, non-conducting, and doesn't attract dust/fuzzle.

u/StellarValkyrie · 1 pointr/flightsim

I heard it's a common issue and you can get this lubricant for it to fix the issue.

u/tronaldodumpo · 1 pointr/fixit

Something like this this?

u/Tupolev_tu160 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Is it safe to use silicone grease on stabs?

Some webs say it is dielectric, some people say it is not certified.... I have seen amazon reviews about the grease working as stabilizer lube but still want to ask here because it is my first build and dont want to mess it.


This is the grease Im about to buy.

u/Al-Azraq · 1 pointr/hotas

I 've got Silverhook SGPGT90 3676 for 6,5 €. Reviews are great as well as the price, didn't have time to apply though. It for my MFG Crosswind pedals, one spring is squeaky.

u/rokk-krinn · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

lube is lube,

this here is dielectric silicone grease, used for boilers and plumbing, safe for, rubber, copper, brass, plastic. is not electrically conductive. dies not dry out. this tube here can do you for more than 100 keyboards

u/BumpyRocketFrog · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Where the metal stabiliser wire is housed in the plastic housing - I used a syringe - I used this

u/slashwhatever · 1 pointr/fountainpens

This is the one I bought:

It has a bonus feature - the lid is perfect for standing a pen barrel vertically while eye droppering your ink into it :)

u/Shensmobile · 0 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Don't bother with Krytox. Just get some Superlube grease and oil and lightly mix them to reach your desired thickness.



Your desired thickness is up to the user. I was previously using very thin mixture (maybe 80% oil, 20% grease) which was OK, but I tried 70% grease, 30% oil, and I found that I preferred the thicker mixture.

u/NeutralReader2 · 0 pointsr/bikewrench

> Multi-purpose lubricant reduces friction, displaces moisture, removes grease and grime, and protects metal from rust and corrosion

u/silentstorm2008 · -11 pointsr/Frugal

I have Prime, and even with prime there is a minimum order of $25 or they won't ship it out.

For example i need some grease, but couldn't order without adding more to my cart. These are called Add-on items