Best automotive replacement gauge sets according to redditors
We found 115 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive replacement gauge sets. We ranked the 51 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 115 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive replacement gauge sets. We ranked the 51 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Or for those of you who don't want the DIY
Joe's Racing tire pressure gauge
http://www.amazon.com/Joes-Racing-32307-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B00404WDUC
I've had crappy ones for many years until I spent a little bit more and got this. Great quality and should last you a long time.
I'm not sure if there is a pressure gauge that's technically "for life" that's consumer grade and relatively cheap since they are considered to be scientific devices that have parts that wear and/or require calibration at some point.
Without tools, the best you can really do is look for oiliness on the pipe. When you find a joint that feels oily (look for dark colours on the pipe, usually covered in very fine dust. Once you rub the dusty area with your fingers you'll feel the oiliness), spray/pour a small amount of washing up liquid over it and look for bubbles. If there's any refrigerant left in the system, you'll usually see bubbles appear (or over a longer period, foam). Of course if the gas has all escaped already - and we're only talking a couple of hundred grams here - then you won't see any bubbles.
Most domestic gear has no access fitting at all so even locating the leak can be difficult if there's no visual indication. You need to get pressure in there so you can leak test - this means adding a bullet piercing valve (like this).
Then you need to put something in via your bullet piercing valve to raise the system pressure. It's best to use dry nitrogen to leak test to save wasting refrigerant, but since you most likely don't have that on hand you could buy yourself some refrigerant (most likely R134a) and pressurise with that. That's a big no-no here (both disposable cylinders and dumping gas to atmosphere by charging a system with a known leak) but I'm guessing your in the US, and those sorts of laws seem remarkably lax so go for gold. It's not like you'll be ruining MY ozone layer too, right? ;)
You also need to regulate the pressure going in to the system. This is where you need gauges. Connect the yellow line to your bottle, connect the blue line loosely to your bullet piercing valve, purge from cylinder to piercing valve by opening the cylinder tap + gauges tap, and releasing some pressure via the loose fitting, then tighten the fitting and close your gauges tap. Open the bullet piercing valve. Open the gauges tap slowly and give it ~50psi of system pressure.
Then you can go for gold with your soap, or you can lash out and grab yourself some "proper" leak detection fluid (like this), or better yet an electronic leak detector (like this one).
Once you've found your leak, you want to release your nitrogen (or reclaim your refrigerant using a reclaim plant and a spare cylinder), then repair it using an oxy/acetalyne set, or since it's only tiny pipework you can get away with a MAPP gas set.
If it's a copper->copper joint, you're laughing - polish the pipework up with emery cloth, heat the pipe until it's just this side of glowing red, and feed the joint with brown tip silver solder.
If it's a copper->steel joint, then it's a bit more of a pain. You need blue tip silver solder and flux. Clean your joint with the emery cloth, give it a nice coating of flux on every surface you need solder to stick to, then heat it up until it's a fair way short of glowing red. Feed the blue tip solder in and STOP. Unlike brown tip (15% silver) you can't just keep feeding blue tip (45% silver) as it ruins the weld.
Now, since you put on a bullet piercing valve and they leak like a sieve in the long term, we need to replace that with a schrader access valve. Since it's most likely going to be in a straight through piece of pipe, you can save time and grab yourself a pre made access valve in 1/4" pipe. Cut away the hole left by the bullet piercing valve, polish the copper and cut the pipework with a ~10mm gap using a tube cutter. Then slip your access fitting assembly in there, and follow the copper->copper joint procedure.
Of course, now that we've done all that you need to change the liquid line filter drier too. I'd recommend a 1/4" solder in core drier in place of the original copper spun drier because... well, copper spun driers are terrible. Follow the pipe cutting procedure from the piercing valve instructions and the soldering instructions from the copper->copper joint instructions and that's done too. Remember - always try and mount the drier so it's outlet is LOWER than its inlet. This turns the drier into a small liquid receiver and helps ensure a good liquid seal over the capillary tube. Speaking of capillary tubes, if it was inserted straight into the original copper spun drier CUT the capillary, don't try and unsweat it. The chances of blocking it up are about 82.5634% (approximately) when you unsweat capillarys. You're much better off chopping it with a set of capillary tube cutters and ensuring a good clean capillary. The ~30mm of wasted capillary will affect performance, but almost certainly not to any sort of measurable degree.
Then give the system a good evacuation using a vacuum pump and ensure it reaches a good vacuum (sub-500 micron) with a digital vacuum gauge.
Then using a set of electronic scales, charge your freshly evacuated system (remembering to purge!) to the charge recommended by the manufacturer.
Voila! You have just fixed your chest freezer.
..... Alternatively, pay someone to do it for you and/or recycle the components and buy yourself a new one.
Amazon $19.95 prime shipped
http://www.amazon.com/Accu-Gage-H100X-Professional-Pressure-Protective/dp/B00HESFIJ4
For in the car I like the form factor of this one better
http://www.amazon.com/Accu-Gage-RS60XA-Professional-Pressure-Protective/dp/B00VS0T7IC
and down below you can get the rubber guard for it for $5 so $15 total and much more compact and handy for in car usage although only goes to 60psi.
you can get the ribbed sheath for $7.49 and its also prime shipped. (the regular rubber sheath is not prime found it also for $5.07 prime shipped just search accu-gage and you will find it (second page)
and I will be buying a couple of these shortly. did not even know this existed.
http://www.amazon.com/Accu-gage-Chek-Spare-Valve-Extender/dp/B0006O2S8M
you screw onto your spare and then run the other end somewhere convenient so you can both check and fill as needed your spare without digging it out!
I think my favorite is this one
http://www.amazon.com/G-H-Meiser-EZ02-EZ-Gauge/dp/B001CJHU9W
clamps onto your tire chuck AND has a pass through for the compressor. so you can fill at a gas station for example but also use your gauge to know when to stop since many do not have a gauge or its hard to read or inaccurate/broken.
$17
I use this a Joes racing gauge. Very good reviews in the car racing community, and its has never let me down. Good value, and I cant complain. I use it for my bikes and all the cars we own.
http://www.amazon.com/Joes-Racing-32307-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B00404WDUC?ie=UTF8&keywords=joes%20racing&qid=1463484884&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
I have a lot of time into the cad file, and I will be selling the design as a finished product, so I wont open source the file.
But gauge info:
AEM 30-0306 X-Series Boost Pressure Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BI2PNGO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GNCPAbZY70SX7
Revel VLS 1TR1AA006R Intercooler Dual Temperature Gauge 52mm, 50°F to 300°F Intercooler In-Out Digital OLED Display w/ Temperature Sensors & Mounting Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0744QMBF8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mOCPAbYQ2FCGS
If it lets out more air than it puts it, the machine is defective.
Though there is a kernel of truth to what they say. The gauges on gas station air pumps tend to be really inaccurate, so you should always check the pressure with your own tire gauge. Good ones are less than $10. Even the $3 pencil gauges are good enough to get you within a few psi of the recommended rating (which is printed on a sticker on your door jamb).
Big fan of Joe's Racing. http://www.amazon.com/Joes-Racing-32307-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B00404WDUC/
And it's really border-line emergency at that point. 2/32 is the minimum by law. It's not going to work so great if wet or snowy. Tires should be replaced around 4/32, before they degrade too much in slippery conditions.
I recommend getting a depth gauge to throw in your glovebox. Under $4 on amazon.
I use Torque Pro on my android with a bluetooth ODBII scanner. It has helped me to diagnose some issues on a friend’s car. As well as see some benefits from some small fix-ups that I was not sure would be noticeable (eg. cleaning my MAF)
For tire pressure I use Joes racing gauge
This one:
https://www.amazon.com/Joes-Racing-32485-Quick-Inflator/dp/B00B9FJMAO/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1469851117&sr=8-6&keywords=joe%27s+racing+tire
It's a little pricey at ~$60, but it's the last one you'll ever need. If you're like me and you're used to the cheap "pen" types, this one will blow your mind. Having the controlled fill and blow-off inline on the unit is super nice too.
Leveling is pretty rough when you first start out, so don't feel too bad about it. One thing I can suggest is to use a feeler gage instead of paper. I use the 0.1 mm one on this one. You can more accurately measure the height that way, but you'll likely want to clean the bed with alcohol before printing, because the feeler gage set has a coating of oil on it.
As others have said, you'll need to raise your z limit switch to use the glass bed. You want to roughly adjust the height before you set the z switch height. Tighten your bed level points until the springs are fully compressed, then loosen them about 3 turns or so. Manually move the nozzle to the center of the bed and down far enough to touch. Then loosen the z limit screws and raise switch to touch the x gantry. Tighten it there and then start the level process.
The only thing that I can think of for the prints stopping is maybe the extruder isn't assembled correctly. Try wiggling the arm up and down. If it has play, you need to tighten the pivot screw more. While you are messing with that, make sure the other screws are tight, and see if you can turn the pull when there's no pressure on it. It should be able to turn freely, and it shouldn't wiggle up and down either.
Actually, now that I think about it, is it because of the SD card slot? I imagine if you pulled the SD card during a print it would do exactly what you described.
As far as the SD card, you'll either have to replace the whole board, or use octoprint. I can highly recommend octoprint, though. It let's you print from your pc, without using the SD card. Once you have it set up, you can print directly from cura, with an add on in the cura marketplace. (well, on cura 3.x. I'm not sure on cura 4.0 yet, as I haven't messed with it too much.)
Cura is actually pretty good, it'll do pretty much anything you need it to.
Re: auto bed leveling, it's helpful, but it was a pain to set up for me, and you'll either need to order the Creality kit or print a mount for it.
I haven't had any problems with Hatchbox pla. It's one of the better ones I've used.
This hobby is pretty great once you get started, but the learning curve is pretty steep. Don't feel embarrassed about asking for help! I've only been printing for a few months now, and the community is pretty great!
This is the one I have, although it might be a little bigger than you want. I picked it up at a local Advanced Auto, but the one on Amazon that I link to seem identical. I like it, but it might be more than you're looking for.
my gauge
the main reason for a tire rotation is mostly due to the tread of the rear tires going out faster than the front ones (not by much) so rotate them to even out the tread wear on your tires.
On mine (3) I have found around 6-7K milage my tread wear is about 1/32 difference (7/32 front and 8/32 rear) this depends on driving habit, road conditions etc.
I always suggest a 2/32 in.+ In difference before rotating so you won't be either doing it yourself so much or taking the car in to have them do it every 6,250 miles.
One of these tread depth gauges are the cheapest and easiest way to measure your tires tread depth (minus the penny method), doesn't have to specifically be this one but it's an easy one to show.
I'd say at least have one on hand in the glove box and if you are ever curious if you need a tire rotation (outside of an up coming 2 year service visit where they can rotate for you with the maintenance plan) you won't pay it of pocket for (in my opinion) unnecessary tire rotation.
i drive about 90 miles, round trip, every day.
i do it in a 2005 corolla automatic, and get ~30 mpg in the winter, about 35 in summer. that's with about 75% at 75 mph and the rest in town. if i take the slow road to work, going 55 mph, i can get crazy mpg numbers, average 45 on that trip, i think my high was about 58. i use a ScanGaugeE to track my mpgs in realtime. when i fuel up, i double check every time, and it's within 1 mpg. every time.
oh, and i paid $3400 for it with 120k. timing chain, so no need to worry about the timing belt. they're about as reliable as it gets. i haven't had to fix anything since i got it, it now has about 165k. no leaks, no noises (well... it's still a small car...), no problems at all.
they may not be the nicest cars around, but damn, they'll save you some serious money.
I don't mean the whole cluster, just the stepper motor.
AEM (30-4110) UEGO Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N3VGPYS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_a2CPCbXQA9308
I'm serious about the rear tire pressure. It's probably around 35-40lbs of pressure right now. Get a really good tire pressure gauge... because you need one anyway. I could build a nice house for what you have invested in that bike, so don't be cheap and get a good one. Hell, even if you don't change the tire pressure like I'm suggesting, you still need a good tire pressure gauge.
There's a ton of $10 gauges floating around, but I've never found two that read the same, so all of them can be counted on to be inaccurate. But there are good, relatively inexpensive gauges out there. Avoid the digital ones unless you into the >$200 product lines. Not necessary unless you work on a racing team and 1/10lb differences are going to be appropriate and necessary for track condition changes. But GOOD dial-gauges with flexible hoses can be had for about $40-50. Intercomp and Joe's Racing both make reliable, accurate gauges, and they're almost as good as the ones for professional racing teams. Make sure these are 60lb gauges, because you can use them on your car and truck, too. Buy a good one once and you'll never need to buy another. I know you understand this idea.
You probably don't have an inner tube in that rear tire so don't go below 20lbs ever, although I've limped my Road King home on a tire going flat that had about 15lbs in it (an 800lb bike is NOT the same as the 475lb bikes that Harley recommended 15lbs of pressure for). but 22-25lbs is more than enough for the tire to retain its bead on the rim under almost all conditions (except drag racing, unless you're rolling on the throttle instead of dumping the clutch) and hitting a hard curb straight on at 50+mph, and then you'e already got other problems. But running 22-25lbs may make the difference between enjoying every minute of your ride and having to buy a football mouth guard to keep from breaking teeth. OK, you probably don't need the mouth guard, but the difference between 35-40lbs and 22-25lbs will be night and day. Give it a try?
https://www.amazon.com/Joes-Racing-32307-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B00404WDUC
I have this one: http://www.amazon.com/ScanGaugeE-Multifunction-Computer-Customizable-Real-Time/dp/B004SK5I46/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415596263&sr=8-1&keywords=scangauge+e
No complaints about it. Had it on my car for about 2.5 years now. It survives extreme temps no problem. Just tell it your engine size, gas tank size and tell it how many gallons you fill it up with and how much it cost for the most accurate reading.
I do find that the lack of a gauge is a big downside to the device but I use Fobo bluetooth sensors that give an instant readout when I put the cap back on... does take some back and forth but you get used to the time required per psi rather quickly. Otherwise, I also add a passthrough type gauge for a readout: http://www.amazon.com/G-H-Meiser-EZ02-EZ-Gauge/dp/B001CJHU9W
If you own an air compressor, this thing is the tits: Link
It's a very accurate tire pressure gauge, but the best part: this one is built into a tire filler that you hook up to your air compressor, so you can see the pressure without swapping between your filler and your gauge. Also, it has a button under the gauge that lets you bleed air. Pretty handy. (especially if you're at the track a lot)
$60. Worth every penny. If you just need a good gauge but don't care about it being fused with a filler, just get their regular gauge. It's like $21. (I have one of those too and it's great)
Air/Fuel gauge $170
http://www.amazon.com/AEM-30-4110-UEGO-Ratio-Gauge/dp/B00N3VGPYS
__
12V Impact wrench $25
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-1-2-half-inch-emergency-impact-wrench-92349.html
__
Cylinder head temperature gauge, $39
http://www.amazon.com/Trail-Tech-Temperature-Meter-72-ET3/dp/B0031BIWX2
__
Roller weight tuning kit $33 (there are different weight sizes, what scooter?)
http://www.amazon.com/Prima-Roller-Weight-Tuning-16x13/dp/B00LESCZHS
__
Or a set of a range of carb jets. Again, need to know the scooter type.
__
Scooter Dyno $12,000 hahaha
http://www.dynojet.com/products/dynamometers/dynomodelsd12/dynojet-dynamometer-sd12.aspx
I've never used most of these, so I can't review them. They look interesting to me though.
Hold on there.
ANY changes you make to the pipes need matching changes at the carbs. The ones you've got on there are junk (factory CV carbs) and there's no guarantee they're tuned correctly to the pipes NOW. In fact, getting CV carbs to work right with pod filters like you've got is a tricky proposition. Who tuned those carbs? If it was you, and you're asking the questions you're asking now...um...odds are it's not in a great state as is.
If you're willing to swap carbs, any of the Mikuni VM34 kits will kick major ass over what you've got. Faster overall, faster throttle response, easier to tune to match pipes and genuinely likes pod filters like you have here. Don't go with a VM36 kit unless you're doing big motor mods (cam, big-bore kit, head porting).
Next issue. That pipe isn't the best in terms of cornering clearance. If you want max handling out of this beast you might want to consider cutting those pipes in front of the motor, extending them under the frame, merging them the same distance down as the merge point you have, and then bring the pipe out from under the bike not that far from the rear tire.
I wrote a bit about pipes (and carbs) here:
http://www.motorbikemondays.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/CafeRacerGuide-1.pdf
So with all that said, now I can answer your question!
I like SuperTrapp generic mufflers. Measure the diameter of whatever pipe you end up with where the muffler is going to go and order from Summit. This is one batch:
https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/supertrapp/product-line/supertrapp-s-c-standard-mufflers?autoview=SKU
They also come in chrome and different lengths. Note the differences in inlet diameter.
SuperTrapp mufflers can be tuned as to the back-pressure by removing or adding disks. This also changes the sound. It also changes how the carb needs to be tuned to match the muffler, or if you get it close you can fine-tune the muffler to the carb instead of the more common method of only tuning the carb.
With me so far?
OK. One last thing. When I wrote that guide I didn't know about these:
https://www.amazon.com/AEM-30-4110-UEGO-Ratio-Gauge/dp/B00N3VGPYS
For about $200 (plus you need to weld a nut-thing on the pipe or muffler) you get total knowledge of what the fuel/air ratio REALLY is. You only need this gauge while tuning it (with an exception I'll mention in a sec). It's annoying to try and permanently mount because the cable it comes with from the sensor to the gauge is too damn long and you can't cut it (if you do the calibration will be fucked). But with this, you can absolutely fine-tune the carb's settings to the pipe and get the mixture dead-nuts accurate even if this is your first time tuning this shit :).
---
Now I'll add one more oddity...and this is a setup I'm considering.
These crazy fuckers have a BUNCH of modifications available for Mikuni VM series carbs:
http://thunderproducts.com/
They've got dial-adjustable jetting. You can adjust jetting WHILE RIDING. No shit. You can also add more jets, like the Thunderjet for top-end power.
So. What does this mean?
For one, you can alter the settings for different altitudes, using the Thunder Products Intellajet and Thunderjet stuff to fine-tune the carbs and use the fuel/air gauge to know that your on-the-seat re-tuning is accurate.
That, in theory, would give you the most advanced carb (and pipe!) setup on the goddamn planet.
Yeah that looks busted as shit.
Have you ever used it? Is it possible you cranked the PSI knob in the wrong direction and it is actually registering like 80 PSI right now?
You might be able to open it up and just move the needle to the other side of the stopper, but I would personally never trust the reading ever again after doing that.
Fortunately a new low pressure gauge [costs like $10] (https://www.amazon.com/Regulator-Gauge-0-60-Gauge-Right/dp/B0064OFFLK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522594868&sr=8-3&keywords=CO2+low+pressure+gauge) and takes 2 minutes to install. I'd just replace it.
Tires are the most important feature on the car for it's performance and safety. You should educate her on how to monitor, and set her tire pressure at regular intervals for her own safety and the safety of those around her. Get a nice tire pressure gauge with a large glow in the dark analog gauge to make reading simple and clear.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00404WDUC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
i carry the following when i am riding around out of town. basically, if it would take more than an hour or so for my wife to come grab me, I carry my tools. i also carry my kit if im out with my brothers (but then i carry it more because it is my responsibility).
Tool Roll
Tire Pressure Gauge
Tire Kit
First Aid Kit
Zip Ties
Jump start kit
all of this crap gets bundled into an old Tank Bag and strapped to my sissy bar.
If the little "flags" still exist and are still welded onto the pins that exit the compressor, then get new heavy duty fast-on connectors for the wire and push the fast-on onto the flag.
If the flags are gone, get rescue terminals like this:
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Qwik-Products-QT2810-3-Terminal-Repair-Lugs-Bag-10-AWG-2-ft-Leads-w-Nut?gclid=Cj0KCQjwpavpBRDQARIsAPfTwixfDxNIXocFiCotNK0ZcfvFb-J5uviFr9kmSy7qe7TNVXjNGe6BRK8aAnBKEALw_wcB
or this:
https://www.amazon.com/Term-LOK-TLC310-Compressor-Terminal-Packard/dp/B004UW0GGC
Also, check Ebay for (possibly) better prices.
If you want to get going sooner, you can use tie wire to temporarily secure the electrical wire to the compressor terminal.
https://www.harborfreight.com/25-ft-mechanics-wire-97773.html
SECTION | CONTENT
:--|:--
Title | How to Properly Recharge Your AC System
Description | Recharge your AC system properly. I go though all of the steps on how to safely recharge your air conditioning system with refrigerant. First you need to evacuate the system, then pull a vacuum, and then add the correct amount of refrigerant based on weight. Manifold gauge set: http://amzn.to/29fZqu1 AC vacuum pump http://amzn.to/29nr6xS Refrigerant (with no oil or sealers): http://amzn.to/1WMjvuS Refrigerant Can Tap: http://amzn.to/20vQFxc Scale to weigh Refrigerant: http://amzn.to/1TrEQbs Ho...
Length | 0:13:09
****
^(I am a bot, this is an auto-generated reply | )^Info ^| ^Feedback ^| ^(Reply STOP to opt out permanently)
For reference, I have around 14,000 miles on my 18" Michelin MXM4 tires that came with the car (and around 7,000 on separate winter tires). When I checked the tread last they were all between 5/32nds and 6/32nds. I don't usually drive too aggressively but EVs are notorious for wearing out tires quicker due to the instant torque. Remember that the factory tires have a treadwear warranty that will get you a discount on your next set.
Also, it's cheap and easy to check your own tread depths using a tool like this that you can find in the automotive section of Walmart or in an auto parts store www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F5N55B0
Yes, that sounds like you need to recharge. You can do it pretty cheaply with a recharge kit like this one or get a cheap set of charge hoses.
However, if you have a leak, that'll need to be fixed or you'll just be doing this over and over. I normally do a charge, and if it doesn't stay, get the system serviced.
Do you have amazon prime? http://www.amazon.com/G-H-Meiser-EZ-Tire-Gauge/dp/B001CJHU9W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1323050127&sr=8-1
Hey, scrotch!
I only now remembered, "Wait, I was supposed to respond to that Redditr's comment!" I am 26 years old with the memory of a perpetually stoned grandpa'.
Onto the nitty-gritty:
IIRC, I purchased an AEM (30-4110) UEGO. It came with the Lambda Sensor Unit 4.9. All that was required was having a bung welded into the header and a way to mount the gauge.
For us carb'y owners, especially those with split FCRs, this makes tuning our carbs more exact than our butt-dyno, and less costly than hours on the dyno. It's a wide-band, so it gives accurate readings between 10:1 and 20:1.
https://www.amazon.com/GODESON-88702-Smart-Color-Coded/dp/B01F5N55B0/ref=pd_sbs_263_t_2/137-8617068-0944230?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01F5N55B0&pd_rd_r=a036bac7-2c6f-44e1-ba76-7d40b8a30394&pd_rd_w=Kn0A9&pd_rd_wg=VVTGw&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=2ATS0B6FGE716G022FK6&psc=1&refRID=2ATS0B6FGE716G022FK6
​
You can usually pick on of these up at an auto parts store for a few bucks.
Generally speaking, around 4 or 5/32 you've got a dry-weather-only tire, and they're legally bald at 2/32
Check the water that drips from your AC for Dye. If that's got dye, that'd def your evap core.
There are refrigerant detectors (see /u/Vistandsforvicious 's post). You turn the AC on, and it can detect very small refrigerant leaks. Most AC shops should have one. They look like this And basically sniff to find very small leaks. Beeping when stuck into your vents when the AC is running means your evap core is leaking, no beep... no leak. I'd suggest getting a professional to do it, not the crappy one I linked. Or you can roll the dice and use the el-cheap-o from amazon.
edit: But if it's a leak, you should be able to do it with 0 guesswork involved. It just takes a lot of persistance. Use a q-tip to clean up that spot of oil on the back of the compressor, and see if recharging it makes the oil spot come back.
PS: If you're adding refrigerant, do not use the crap with leakstop. Use something like this with the white cans of only-refrigerant to fill your AC. If you're refilling it yourself, I wrote a long post on how to do it mostly-correctly.
I have one of these that is compact and reliable and decent quality. At least with an analog one you can keep it in your glovebox or toolbox without worrying about batteries
Not digital, but this analog gauge has been great: Joes Racing 32307 (0-60) PSI Tire Pressure Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00404WDUC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1mIBybTCYX6MQ
I've gifted it to several relatives. The large dial, half pound accuracy, and bleed off valve are great features.
I think having an accurate gauge is important, I tend to trust the mechanical gauges a little more and I don't worry about dead batteries. I also try to buy American when possible :)
Joes Racing
Not much, but I'll let you in on a little secret...you can get one of these and you just over fill a bit, then bleed the excess. I have one and I love it so much I got another to keep in the cage, and the other in my saddle bags.
Best advice is to keep it simple. Focus on brakes and tires first! Do some basic setup and then recognize while you are on track when you are at the limit of your basic setup, then go from there.
You already have SS brake lines, good! Fill them with good 600°F brake fluid (several were mentioned already). Do this every few events and be meticulous about doing it RIGHT and making sure there are NO LEAKS. Safety first! This and pads are your #1 safety item. Then an instructor, then good tires, helmet, seat belts, etc. Again, keep it simple.
Parts:
Use whatever rotors are on the car for now, and buy a set of these as backup whenever htey start to warp: Centric 120.40048CRY Cryostop Rotor
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003K1H2V6
Brake Pads, order a set of Hawk HP+ pads. You will get advice all over the board on what is best and blah blah blah. These are great bang for your buck and you can street them as well.
Hawk Performance HB361N.622 HP Plus Brake Pad
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IEYNOM
Fronts are most important, do all 4 corners once you start to get comfortable with the car and/or go to a bigger track.
Think you're done with brakes? NOPE! Now let's talk heat. You're just starting to go on the track and want to be out for as long as possible to work on consistency and technique. If you're going to do any sizeable track with big braking zones you will want some way to keep the brakes cool. A lot of people poo-poo this step and then complain about how the stock brakes suck SO bad. I have had my s2k on CoTA, Road America, and BIR with zero brake fade with the setup I'm describing.
Option one: remove the dust shields, this will help reduce captivated heat
Option two: brake duct kit. DIY worked best for me:
-Lambert spindle mounts: http://www.lapponline.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65_66_67&products_id=180
-Front Bumper inlets. WASP makes nice stuff but they SUCK to deal with and idk if they're even in business anymore. Several other options out there.
-Aircraftspruce.com has all the ducts and such you need:
Qty Ship B/O Item Unit Price Total Price
11 05-29910 SCAT-10 DUCTING 2 1/2" 7.500 82.50
6 QS200-40H BREEZE CLAMP 200-40H 1.880 11.28
1 01-00990 RESCUE TAPE 1" X 12' BLACK 9.350 9.35 (helps with rubbing)
3 05-02200 RUBBER "U" CHANNEL 1.350 4.05
50 11-04229 7" 50LB NATURAL CABLE TIES MS3367-1-9 0.040 2.00
50 11-13475 14" 120LB NATURAL CABLE TIES MS3367-3-9 0.150 7.50
50 11-04058 14" 50LB NATURAL CABLE TIES MS3367-2-9 0.090 4.50
Subtotal: USD 121.18
Ok great, now you have good brakes, you already said you have RS3 tires on there, buy a nice tire gauge and keep an eye on pressures & tire wear!
Joes Racing 32307
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00404WDUC
While you're at it, check the oil. Seriously, these things can (but don't necessarily) burn through a lot of oil depending on conditions and the track. Just keep an eye on it and plan for keeping an eye on it. Not a bad thing.
Get a good basic alignment on the car, max out the stock adjusters for camber front and rear, zero toe front and about .25" total toe in the rear, then you're good to go! If you are feeling DIY-ish pick up a Quick Trick alignment kit to bust this out quick and easy in your garage or at the track.
Once you get comfy with the car however you have it setup today suspension/wheel-wise, you can start to look at a few next-steps. Do all of these at the same time as its the combo that shines over any one part.
-lowering springs/coilovers (I did ohlins, so awesome)
-front swaybar (A simple eibach will do!)
-front bumpsteer correction kit/spacers
-17x8.5 or 17x9 square wheel setup with 255/40-17 tires. RS3's, Maxxis, VR1, are great lapping-day options. RE71R for quick/short/fast hot laps.
1 rule: HAVE FUN!
I got something similar myself without the Snap-On premium several years back.
A lot of people will tell you to do the penny trick, but I hate it. Coins wear and that is not an accurate measurement for something like tires, which are a safety device. A tire depth gauge like this is less than 5 bucks and will always give you accurate results. Buy one for each car and one for the house so you always have one around. I would replace around 4-5/32nds myself as I see you already did.
Get yourself a nice gauge like this: http://amzn.com/B00404WDUC
Makes a world of difference. It's got a pressure release button and a lot more accurate than the pencil style that a lot of people use.
Here ya go...
Supco BPV31 Bullet Piercing Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DM8J3MI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7tu3AbWW31RXF
InterDynamics RLS-134 13oz. Refrigerant R134a with Leak Sealer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000COD8R6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Kuu3Ab8SRPRGN
FJC 6036 R134a U-Charge Hose with Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00620PXMW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bvu3Ab2FH7N4M
R12 R22 R502 Screw to R134A Fast Conversion Adapter Valve 1/4'' to 8v1 Thread https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HL55KBU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Wvu3AbSJXAZ8H
Your first diagnostic should be to check the high/low pressure to make sure the compressor is compressing something.
Get one of these (or similar): http://www.amazon.com/Mountain-8205-R-134a-Manifold-Couplers/dp/B000JFHNG0
A good book for learning about how the A/C (and everything else) works is this: http://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Technology-4th-James-Halderman/dp/0132542617 ($110) No, it's not cheap-- but if it saves you even one mechanic visit, it will pay for itself.
The service manual for your Civic will have specifics of the pressures you want to see, but the short version is you want to ensure that the base pressure is roughly equal to the vapor pressure of the refrigerant at the ambient temperature. On the gauge set I have this is conveniently included on the gauge itself. The low and the high port should read the same pressure when you start. If not, perhaps the engine hasn't been sitting long enough after having the AC on?
If the pressure is lower than the normal vapor pressure of the refrigerant (less than the 60-80psi range depending on temperature) then STOP. Do not add more refrigerant. You have air in the system which needs to be sucked out with a vacuum pump before you proceed. You probably want a pro to handle that for you and there are likely some other components to be replaced as well.
This guy has great writeup of the recharging process:
http://blarg.introspect.net/cars/7
i like this one
the big face and hold feature are slick
Stick to the brand names and you'll be fine. My last few sets were Goodyear Nordics - which are fairly inexpensive and they work great.
You can check out tirerack.com to compare tires. I tend to stick away from tires that have a specific left and right side tread. Other than that, check how many miles they are rated for and the user reviews.
Get a tread depth reader for a few bucks and take the time to check each tire for even wear across the tire. The Goodyear Nordics are 13/32" brand new. It's a good way to gauge the % of life left. For inspection purposes, the tires much be 2/32" minimum, which is way too little for winter.
Update:
The system was empty. Added a little bit of UV oil and a can of refrigerant to diagnose the issue. AC turned on almost instantly, low side pressure around 30 psi by the end of the can; manifold gauges rock.
Plan is to run the AC for just a week or so to avoid long-term issues, just long enough to find the issue.
Hopefully we'll find the leak. If so, we'll buy the parts to replace.
In any event, we'll also get the accumulator and an o-ring set, pay for evac, replace the parts, pull vacuum, and charge it up properly.
Gotta get a vacuum too. Still confused whether the vacuum needs the r134a adapter - the adapter is illegal to ship to california for some reason; the vacuum in question (link) says it's made specifically for r134a but half the people say you need an adapter and half say you don't. (I got the manifold gauges I linked before - this one (link).
Re screwing the cap down - to get a good pressure - yes I'd have said so.
Re the gauge something like this https://www.amazon.com/Yellow-Jacket-69044-Vacuum-Gauge/dp/B003AK8LG2
> https://www.amazon.com/Yellow-Jacket-69044-Vacuum-Gauge/dp/B003AK8LG2
That gauge isn't going to do anything for me. I already have that gauge, it stops being useful because I'm at 3 torr, and that gauge has a minimal step resolution of 10 torr.
My BMP183 can read down to 300 pascal (2.25 torr) which is where I'm at. The leak gives me final pressure of 1000 pascal (~7 torr). Both of those are solidly in the lowest pressure (the black bar on the gauge).
I like the ones with a flex hose section like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Joes-Racing-32307-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B00404WDUC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1406822942&sr=8-3&keywords=air+tire+pressure+gauge
or
http://www.amazon.com/Campbell-Hausfeld-MP6000-Inflator-Gauge/dp/B0007ZJ1IK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1406822827&sr=8-4&keywords=air+tire+pressure+gauge
The rig and r410a would easily exceed the cost of just replacing it. I already have a vacuum pump so omitting that cost.
Manifold gauge
$47 - Flexzion Ac Refrigerant Manifold Gauges
HVAC Air Conditioning Charging Service Set PSI Kit Halogen Diagnostic Tool for R22 R410a R404a with Three 60" Hoses in Red Blue Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01792INPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_28PhDbPCF009A
$76 - R410a 28oz
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F202654527468
$7.23 x 2 - bullet piercing valve, one for high side, one for low.
Supco BPV31D Bullet Piercing Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J2D6OEC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.bQhDbV62YH63
Already about $140 before tax
I was just trying to find a cheap ersatz solution.
You need new wires. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Term-LOK-TLC310-Compressor-Terminal-Packard/dp/B004UW0GGC
As far as contactor not energizing it might be another issue but the compreasor should run if you push contactor in manually. It won't start with those burned wires though. If anything you can bypass the board u till you get a replacement.
$60ish on Amazon
Unless you're really looking to dig in and learn and aren't afraid of spending $300+ in tools you'll be better off to just drop it by an auto a/c specialty shop to have it diagnosed and repaired. Most commonly the system has developed a leak which has to be identified and repaired then the system has to be vacuumed down and recharged by weight.
Before you spend money on a new regulator, maybe throw a brass barb on the threads of one of these and hook up a line to it and see what the pressure compares to on your regulator.
Price History
CamelCamelCamel - [Info] │ Keepa - [Info]
_
These prices aren't just Black and White.
^(Info) ^| ^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support Me!) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=Bug+Report&message=%2Fr%2Fredditdeals%2Fcomments%2Fdvvwy6%2Fbattery_indicator_31102019couponcodeklaekp2h42%2Ff7f1n6q%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0APlease+explain+here+what+you+expected+to+happen%2Fwhat+went+wrong.)**