Best automotive replacement oil filters according to redditors
We found 96 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive replacement oil filters. We ranked the 64 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
8. 2015-2016 VW Volkswagen Golf GTI Set Of 3 Oil Filter Replacements GENUINE OEM BRAND NEW
2 mentions
Some would say JB4. I would fall into that group since it is removable before any necessary dealer visits.
Invest in oil change supplies because it's so simple on this car and you can save yourself a good bit of money vs paying someone. Buy some things in bulk and you won't have to worry about not having them when the time comes and you'll save some cash. I have 2 MK7s and by doing this, my changes cost me about $30-35/ea and take me about 20 minutes, which is less time than most people will spend driving to the dealership.
$47 for the oil and $13 for the filter. Labor is free because I usually do it in the parking lot of any auto store and then drop the oil into their free oil dispense containers. lol
Green filter
Clutch Spring
Short shift plate
FL400s oil filter
Shift knob (JBR)
Rear motor mount (Mountune not really cheap))
> 2015 4runner SR5.
if you havent already....for the love of god do yourself/your friend who does your oil changes afavor and buy the metal housing
you will thank me when it never wears out in the future. or has a risk of cracking
Shell Rotella Synthetic 5w-40 in the blue bottle and a Purolator PL14610. I know it's not available outside the US, but when I wanted to know about oil there's more information than you should ever need to know at this website. Both my oil and filter are direct results of that website.
From what I understand the "30" oil change is the most basic, bulk oil on the market as well as the crappiest cheap filter too. I like to get the 15K Miles full synthetic for all of $25 shipped with prime as well as a premium BOSCH filter for abouit $5. But thats just me.
Cheapest I saw there was $65 for 4, plus tax and $7 for shipping since they weren't prime. Especially for the Cooper S, you need the OEM filters to keep the fragile engines actually running longer, since they have non-standard filters with higher surface area. Otherwise, you're asking for trouble, especially with the turbo models, since they're not exactly the most reliable cars ever.
See what I mean, look at the filters here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N74VBJA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oMoSBbB0XT72F
And that's only one maintenance part, I can't imagine how you'd do much under the hood of one, you can barely fit a hand between the engine and the rest of the car. Look up images of the mini Cooper S engine bay and you'll know what I mean. Then compare that to, say, a Chevy Aveo. Same size car, same displacement engine, massively easier to work on.
Oil
Filter
That's why you don't use that stupid screwdriver trick. It kinda works on filters that aren't stuck. It just makes an oily mess and fucks you over when the filter is actually stuck.
Rip off the can, pull off the filter media, and get down to the plate with holes in it. Use that screwdriver like a punch and hammer it against the side of a hole to drive the plate around and unscrew it. Don't dig into the filter base, and make sure you clean up any metal debris you leave behind.
In the future use this to get filters off. Mine has never failed me. It'll crush the filter smaller and smaller, but eventually it stops crushing and starts turning no matter how tight it is. The worst stuck filter I ever had never broke free--I tore the base off the side of the block. But at that point it needed a new base anyway.
OEM oil filters are so cheap there's no reason not to use them, in my opinion. Amazon sells a six pack of them for $27.
Also, the oil could be burning because it's too thin. I have been using Motul 8100 xcess 5w40, which my tuner Yimisport recommended, in my 2012 STI and I've had basically zero consumption over the last two years.
Finally, a big step toward solving oil consumption is using an air-oil-separator. The stock configuration returns oil to the engine via the intake, which ends up getting in your intercooler and ultimately burning in the combustion cycle. An AOS strips the oil from this air and returns it via a drip back into the engine block. It never needs emptying like an oil catch can either. Crawford and Perrin both make them now. Grimspeed makes a cheaper, smaller design but I've read it doesn't work as effectively.
They're nice filters. Super cheap on amazon with next day shipping as an add-on item.
https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-FL400S-Oil-Filter/dp/B000AS3D42/
That, with full synthetic oil at $28, makes my oil change just over $31.
According to Amazon, it's almost $24. That $60 almost paid for itself already.
😂 that shit is HEAVY duty
I had a free oil change left with Toyota, and I had completely forgotten to mention the plates or that they’re heavy af... the tech greatly underestimated the weight and unbolted the front plate onto himself lol. Apparently, everyone in the shop laughed at him. Poor guy. I don’t too feel bad, because he over-tightened the filter housing and drain plug until they were rounded. Which leads me to my next tip. Swap the plastic housing for an aluminum one, and the plug for a Fumoto drain valve. You don’t want to be fucking with either of those stock shits with how little room you have now. Otherwise, you’ll risk having to remove the two front plates every oil change. You can reach the housing with an extension on a filter fitting, but the plug is awful to get to when it’s not over-torqued and impossible to get leverage on when it is. When it’s stubborn or too tight, you’ll have to take the first and second plates off. If you get oil from the filter onto the plate and don’t want it to end up smelling like burnt oil, you’ll have to remove the first one and wash it. That got old after only the first or second time I had to do it.
Here is the Fumoto valve. Buy the correct sized tubing, clip, and nipple end cap that aren’t included, but should be.
This is the filter housing. You’ll need to reuse the tube and plug from the plastic housing.
Skip the plastic doodad that comes with every oil filter. Cut this down to an appropriate length, and you’re set
Most Honda fanboys rave over using the A01 (Filtech) filter vs the A02 (Fram), but here's a teardown video so you can make your own decision: https://youtu.be/qpzykhkH1oo
Link to A01 filter deal: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009K4H42Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yEk3BbYQYE1Z6
Or get the same thing in Gearwrench for $24
First oil change can be early. SOA doesn't mention it but dealers do offer it at varying intervals. I'm in FL and my dealer offered to do it at 1k after the break in period.
I'm doing my own changes and did the first one at 3k and second at 6k to get me back on track. Pretty easy to do on these engines and total cost is about $30: $23 for the oil and $8 for OEM filter, the latter you can probably get a little cheaper from other sites or possibly the dealer.
https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-Genuine-15208AA170-Filter-Complete/dp/B00LD1J362/ref=pd_nav_hcs_rp_1/131-0205027-3590001?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00LD1J362&pd_rd_r=429c6ba3-c21a-48c7-9663-3542c770269c&pd_rd_w=xCQl0&pd_rd_wg=LcWas&pf_rd_p=975014c5-67c4-4179-b94c-583146b3d710&pf_rd_r=T3S7ME6TRKEZXTZAT1M6&psc=1&refRID=T3S7ME6TRKEZXTZAT1M6
thats for mine though... no idea what you need
I have a dealership nearby so i just purchase from them. You may be able to find the OEM online https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-Genuine-15208AA170-Filter-Complete/dp/B00LD1J362
I have been buying mine from Amazon for $8 USD: Genuine Subaru 15208AA170 Oil Filter Complete, 1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LD1J362/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UKERAbGFM1RXM
Unsure on dealership price for a change as I do mine myself.
Good luck! Oh also, you can pick up OEM oil filters off of amazon for pretty cheap too.
https://www.amazon.com/2015-2016-Volkswagen-Filter-Replacements-GENUINE/dp/B00LMGORXC
Go ahead a buy yourself one of these adaptors
Then you can use a much wider range of (better) filters like this more expensive one or this (still good) but less expensive one
Amazon FTW. It took me about 10 seconds to find this.
Fleetguard LF16035 Oil Filter for Dodge Ram Cummins Engines Diesel (2 Packs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZ8WRW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-LvQCbKPZW38M
That’s a great price for two filters and you get Prime shipping.
Yeah, turbo failures on the XTs aren't uncommon and can cause a total engine failure when they blow. Have fun, give her all she's got every once in a while, but don't rag the engine out, and stay on top of those oil changes with full synthetic. Your manual will say 7,000 miles but Subaru amended it to be 3,750 miles after seeing a lot of turbo failures. If you're mechanically inclined, do it yourself and save $40-$50. I bought a six pack of Subaru filters on Amazon for $35 or so and a pack of crush rings for the oil drain plug. I might get one of those Fumoto drain plugs one day, but they make me a little nervous. I used to use Castrol GTX Edge, but recently switched over to Shell's Rotella T6 5W-40. It's a heavier weight engine oil, but I live in the south and it's within summer temp weights for our car most of the year. A lot of Subaru drivers use Rotella T6. Even though it's labelled for diesel engines, you won't hurt your car.
Here's a link to the oil filters and crush rings
Also, as another user stated, be sure to remove the filter on that banjo bolt for the oil feed line to the turbo. They get clogged and will starve the turbo of oil, killing it pretty quickly.
Congrats again on the new car. I love mine. She's at 200k miles now, and I'm hoping to get another 50k out of her.
Here's what the vdub filter should look like https://www.amazon.com/Mann-Filter-719-45-Spin-Filter/dp/B002UZGCSW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536525444&sr=8-3&keywords=volkswagen+tiguan+oil+filter
Someone suggested that they might have used the old adapter onto the new filter. I still wouldn't be comfortable with that.
Ford just puts semi synthetic in, so any full synthetic and you're doing well... But even then, mind=blown that they still think 10k OCI is fine for a GDI-T motor, so I'm going with 5k intervals personally.
To answer your actual question, just did my first at 1500 miles (get the break in oil out, 5k from here on out) with Castrol Magnatec 5w-20 full synthetic w/Bosch Premium filter (#3330, excellent drain back valve to prevent dry starts). Was only $17.88, at the time for the oil and $5.59 for the filter w/Prime. Car immediately ran smoother and pulled quicker, that initial break in oil must be rough.
The starter is on the transmission.
You need to move further towards the passenger side.
Locate the oil filter housing.
I am almost certain the pressure switch threads into the brass port that is pointing almost straight up in this pic.
https://www.amazon.com/OKAY-MOTOR-Filter-Housing-Quattro/dp/B07JL9DBY5
It can also help to buy the filters in bulk on Amazon, or a similar site: http://www.amazon.com/Subaru-Oil-Filters-Washers-Pack/dp/B007NLQO0O/
Not sure these are the right ones, but a good example of the prices you can find in bulk, I usually get them from an actual Subaru dealership that sells online. Sure it's a bit of upfront cost, but I know I always have them available. I keep oil on hand at all times too, every time I dump my used oil I buy the same amount of new oil. One Saturday it turned out all three Subarus needed oil changes soon, so I said "screw it" and just did them all, took about 45 minutes to an hour since I had everything ready.
https://amazon.com/2011-2018-Case15208AA15A-Geniuine-Impreza-Forester/dp/B071LN66J8/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=subaru+oil+filter&qid=1563294076&s=gateway&sr=8-15
Best oil filter you can buy
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000AS3D42?cache=7f64b7e7e11b780165e3b3122a2984f7&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1413471655&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1
it takes 4 qts of oil. honda spec cynthetic can be had for $6.25/qt. an additional $4.54 for the filter and you end up with $29.54 per oil change.
Is this a good filter to use?
Bosch 3323 Premium FILTECH Oil Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BZIFV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xfTBzb4ERREFK
The Internet is your friend! I can't imagine the magnitudes of higher difficulty generations before us faced. These days, you can Google "oil change DIY <insert year/make/model of your car>" and you will get endless write-ups from forums that specialize in your car, YouTube videos, dedicated personal sites, etc. I definitely know it seems complex, but if you are even the slightest bit technical-minded and can visualize things, you'll very quickly realize that you can probably take apart almost anything you see under the hood and be able to put it back together. Just be careful, take pictures of things before you disassemble, and buy plenty of magnetic trays ($2-3 from Harbor Freight) to keep track of nuts and bolts. Fortunately, there are plenty of maintenance things you can start with that you can't really break, like changing your engine air filter.
Doing an oil change is probably the next simplest thing you can do. In short, safety first, learn how to jack up your car and put it on jack stands, or just buy Rhino Ramps for $40, undo the drain plug, drain the oil into a big pan, put the bolt back in with a new crush washer, find and remove the filter, sometimes it's one metal thing and other times it's a plastic thing with a filter inside of it, then put the new one back on, then pour in x quarts or liters of oil back up top. Your first few times will take an hour or two and will likely be messy, but you'll very quickly be able to shorten that amount of time and eventually be able to do it without spilling a single drop.
A starter set of mechanic tools will cost you $20-40 on Amazon. Oil and filter is usually $20-40 even if you use the good stuff. But then those tools and ramps will also be used basically forever, so they're one-time costs. Once you do this a couple times and get comfortable getting under the car, looking at things, then you can read about doing transmission or differential fluid changes, start removing some of your engine covers just to take a look around and compare it to all the DIY videos and articles/posts that you can find. Once you have a small set of tools, any subsequent jobs will likely just require maybe 1 or 2 additional specialized tools to access some weird things. Even today, after having done most of my own maintenance for years, I would sometimes have to go on Amazon and spend $7 just to buy some weird size socket just to get to this one thing on specific car. You'll familiarize yourself with bolt clamps, start to see how manufacturers like to connect things, where things get dirtier than other places, look at things that you don't normally see when the car is all buttoned up, all with very little risk. It's also definitely easier on a Japanese car. I learned to work on older German cars when I started, where it took 3-4 different bolts and bits and strange wrangling of plastic trim and linings just to remove a bumper, so then I was pleasantly surprised that all I needed was ONE SINGLE 10mm socket on a dozen exposed bolts to take off my Mazda bumper.
It took me a couple years of light wrenching before I was comfortable enough to do my own brakes (mentally, it always seemed like the biggest risk if I messed something up). Now, I can swap all of my brake pads before a track day in about half hour. I recently bought another VW and learned that it has a common coolant system issue, something I had never worked on before... I spent a couple days reading and watching videos, then just ordered the right parts and went in and did everything while following along and pausing the videos. Took me a couple hours, but now I am not nervous about doing anything coolant-related since I gained a deep understanding how the piping works, etc. In fact, I've now added a simple coolant system flush to my to-do list for my other cars.
I looked at your post history and did some light Googling... looks like this site has your full 553-page manual. Here is the link to page 448 that guides you through an oil change, but it looks like all the maintenance stuff starts on page 432. Based on Amazon's built-in car search tool, it looks like the Fram XG7317 is what fits on a '16 TLX V6 AWD. And the service manual says you should be using 0W-20, which is also something you can find on Amazon... I use Castrol Syntec 0W-20 for my track car that definitely sees a ton of hard driving, and it's usually $25 for a 5-qt jug. Based on this resource, looks like you only need about 4.5 qts. This video seems to be pretty informative to walk you through an entire oil change on the V6.
You probably want to create an account on tlxforums.com and start poking around the maintenance subs. Maintenance section and common issues section.
I would tell you to look for a formal service manual, but I may be dating myself here. It doesn't look like there are paper manuals available to buy (at least from Honda; there may eventually be third party ones). In the meantime, it looks like you can pay to access this one... $30/year? Maybe do some of the more simple DIYs, get yourself familiar, start building up a small tool collection, and then go in there and poke around and maybe even download/print some of the stuff you'd want to do.
Feel free to PM me if you want to discuss more or bounce some ideas around, or if you just need a cheerleader before you dive into your first job. Hell, in typing all of this, I'm feeling pretty good about getting down on some Acura V6 maintenance myself, lol.
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*edit* I didn't realize how carried away I got with this response. I'm sorry for thread-jacking with a text wall, u/op. Let me know if you'd like me to remove this post and share it in a PM instead.
Just did the oil job on my wife's 140k vehicle yesterday and put a [Fram Ultra](FRAM XG7317 Ultra Synthetic Spin-On Oil Filter with SureGrip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C33MI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1ZzACbD3WC1J0) filter on there (put full sythn high mileage oil in too). Should I do any early oil change for a new filter (as in in a few thousand miles vs my typical 5000)
Based off comments here there's a lot of criticism in the video and no real analysis on how the filter media works in the various filters, and I also bought a higher-quality-than-average filter even if it's from Fram.
It's just that a decent oil filter usually has it. The Purolator PureOne was fantastic for me "Anti-Drain Back Valve" this is meant to prevent oil from flowing out of the top of the engine due to gravity. In other words, oil will remain inside your lifters, and reduce the amount of tick when starting up, and the amount that oil will dry up or gunk up. I just changed my oil and didn't use this type of filter, and it is significantly louder on startup.
Definitely get the fumoto oil drain valve, makes oil changes much faster and you won't have to keep buying the crush gaskets.
Here is a link for the oil filter I use:
https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-Genuine-15208AA170-Filter-Complete/dp/B00LD1J362
As for oil, you will need 6 quarts, I personally use penzoil ultra platinum 5w30 on my stage 2 wrx. I've also heard good things about regular penzoil platinum, just go with whatever you can get cheaper.
This is what Purolator is to me.
I also use Mobil 1 5W-30, but I use Purolator PL14610 PureONE Oil Filters. They're a little longer than stock, but I like them.
And I definitely recommend getting a magnetic drain plug.
I did the same thing to my 76 360 (very similar engine). The tricky part was the oil filter locknut.
All i had to do was drain the oil, remove the crankcase cover, pull the centrifugal oil filter (this took a spanner to remove the locknut as shown in the manual), pull the clutch and the shift shaft pulls right out. Have a look at a parts fiche on partzilla or whatnot and it'll give you a pretty good idea.
The spanner can be purchased here for 10 bucks (worth it), or do what i did and spend an afternoon making one from a 12 point 15/16" socket - http://www.hondatwins.net/forums/62-engine-discussion/19731-clutch-hub-nut-socket-how-make-2.html
Overall it was an easy fix and didnt take more than 2 hours for a totally incompetent mechanic like myself.
you'll want some RTV to reseal the cases. honda brand is honda-bond I believe.
some engine assembly lube is good too for the cam and other parts until it gets running and oiled properly again.
If you're taking apart the head,(Actually the tool is needed for reassembly only, to turn/compress the torsion springs into place) there's a special tool honda made to turn the torsion springs that hold the valves in. I just cut a notch in a socket, another guy just put a wrench on it to turn it.I will also say that the 500t engine is essentially identical to the CB450 engine, and the CB450 service manual is a fantastic service manual. I would recommend you use that to rebuild the 500t engine. All the 500t manuals I found were pretty poor manuals in comparison.
timing gun isn't entirely needed on these bikes if your spark advance works properly, i've found static timing a bit easier for me, but I know my advance works properly.
you'll also need a chain breaker tool for the very long cam chain in the engine, as it has to come off to remove the head. I used a slightly modified bicycle chain tool, as it's much smaller than purpose built ones and I found it easier to use.
When I lapped my valves, the suction cup tool thing they sell was a pain to use. I wound up sticking a rubber vacuum hose around the end of the valve and used that to spin/ move the valve. worked well.
make sure the seal/gasket kit you get has the rubber cylinders for the oil galleys. when I rebuilt mine a few years ago some kits didn't have them.
finally, there is a special socket needed to remove the oil slinger from the end of the crank shaft. You probably won't have to remove it, so you probably won't need it. here is one on amazon. I just bought myself a cheap socket and ground it down to the right shape.
EDIT: changed a couple things.
I buy my Valvoline 0W-20 on Amazon, usually around $20 for a 5-qt jug. I ended up with a Subaru dealer coupon and bought a case of oil filters to keep on hand, but Amazon has those too.
I couldn't tell if you if I'm getting the best deal around but between Prime and their Chase card, it works for me. Never seen them out of stock either.
Jesus. That's terrible. Don't go to a dealer.
https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-15208AA15A-Oil-Filter/dp/B00I798FIA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484523047&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=crosstrek+oil+filter
Filter : 8.50
https://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-106N-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B003T7XUE4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484523075&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=fumoto+valve
Fumoto 25 bucks so you have a clean easy drain for when you keep doing it in the future.
https://www.amazon.com/Pennzoil-550038221-Platinum-5W-30-Synthetic/dp/B00ELHNM3K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484523115&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=pennzoil+ultra+platinum+5w30
35 for pennzoil oil thats way better than whatever generic shit theyre pumping into your car.
So its 44 bucks for the oil and the filter for premium oil. 70 with the sweet valve that will make it a snap for the rest of your life.
Also, if you're considering paying 79 for a cabin air filter FYI you can get one for 12 bucks on amazon and pop out your glove box in 3 minutes and do it yourself.
Amazon, looks like price went up a little.
Subaru 15208AA15A Oil Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I798FIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_h13Jyb556SS3Y
A01 being counterfeit?! That's not good. Saw on Amazon a seller by the name of Aracoware selling the seemingly original Honda filters.
https://www.amazon.com/Honda-15400-PLM-A01-Oil-Filters-Case/dp/B009K4H42Y
The reviews seems legit.
Regarding Bosche selection, it's only because it's has Filtech labeling on it 😑 so in my noob mind thinking it would be comparable to the OEM.
Regarding the fitting, I've read that oil filters aren't a universal fit so that's why I'm asking.
This is what I do on my MK6. You cannot beat the price!
Motul 007250 8100 X-cess 5W-40 Synthetic Gasoline and Diesel Engine Oil - 5 Liter Jug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LEYIQ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_DR8Izb3RH6NR0
Mann-Filter W 719/45 Spin-on Oil Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UZGCSW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_.T8Izb5JM5AKP
Yes, the diesel engine oil. Some people also swear by Mobil1 synthetic to cure lifter tick.
Here's more about the T6: https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=587262
People really get into oils: https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=667908
I also use Mazda's OEM filter, which Amazon has for around $10.
$10.74 right now, thats US though not CAD.
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Mazda-B6Y1-14-302A-Oil-Filter/dp/B004HLDR3A/ref=pd_bap_rp_4/141-9494483-9418522?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B004HLDR3A&amp;pd_rd_r=49809123-8b63-4fa7-8fca-a2d5c7e8243e&amp;pd_rd_w=255QY&amp;pd_rd_wg=2OvJm&amp;pf_rd_p=789b26ea-0889-4949-95a5-7a0a291f1eb1&amp;pf_rd_r=45V6W9XFXBQ793F6YG27&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=45V6W9XFXBQ793F6YG27
One thing that helps is having a driveway with a little privacy, and no homeowner's association that won't prevent you from doing oil changes and tire rotations on your car.
Husky and Craftsman tools are ok: http://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Mechanics-36220-Newest-Version/dp/B00F1WPCEG/ref=pd_sim_sbs_328_5?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=51O7n-Tt4mL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=0GZXKZTCM0RPZKMW48D2
You can just buy tools individually on amazon if you can't afford the whole tool kit.
Here's a huge guide for the tools needed for working on Subarus: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f62/what-tools-buy-work-my-subaru-127475/
And some rhino ramps, wheel chocks, and jack stands: http://www.amazon.com/gp/registry/wishlist/199GQ6N13H6N0/ref=cm_wl_huc_view
For oil changes, you should order yourself a 6-pack of genuine WRX oil filters with crush washers off amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Subaru-Oil-Filters-Washers-Pack/dp/B007NLQO0O/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458339681&amp;sr=8-1-fkmr1&amp;keywords=subaru+wrx+oil+filter+and+crush+washer
Buy your fully synthetic oil at walmart. Auto parts stores will rip you off on oil.
Dealerships are expensive for general maintenance but useful for doing comprehensive checkups for the maintenance intervals. The maintenance intervals are pretty standard general maintenance every 5k miles.