Best bearings & seals according to redditors

Start of a long line of new parts for the 2000 XJ:

• Spicer ball joints
  
• Timken Hubs
  
• Drag link
  
• Drag link end (to pitman arm)
  
• Drag link adjusting sleeve
  
• Tie rod end (to drag link)
  
• Tie rod end (to DS steering knuckle)
  
• Steering Damper
  
• Front rotors / pads
  
• Rear drums / shoes
  
• Random o2 sensor that has exposed wires
  
  Finally got the ball joints out yesterday around 1pm.
  
  Had to go get an impact gun to even touch the axle nut. Then the damn 13mm 12 point bolts that hold the hub in. Some how I did not strip a single one but have no faith in putting them back in, so now waiting for new bolts to be delivered. Every single cotter pin on the ball joints were so rusted and pushed into the castle nut that I couldn't get them out, so go get new impact sockets (and another trip for swivel sockets for the upper) and unleash all hell to shear the cotter pins off.
  
  
  Finally got to pushing the ball joints out and the OTC set receiving cup is a touch to big for the lower ball joint, so off to Harbor Freight to get an adapter set.
  
  Anyways, half a rant but happy to hopefully have a Jeep that wont wobble down the road.

I assume they were. I laughed when I saw this though, even check out the logo: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F8PLYY8/ref=pe_385040_128020140_TE_3p_dp_1

Good call on wanting to rid the vacuum system, its garbage. I don't recall if the 97 had vacuum hubs or not, if it did, and someone put manual ones on, then you can use them on your vehicle.

Alternatively you can buy manual hubs from Amazon. I personally have these ones on my truck.

https://www.amazon.com/Rugged-Ridge-15001-70-Internal-Locking/dp/B001FAGLAM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504895484&sr=8-1&keywords=ford+ranger+manual+locking+hubs

definitely makes sense to either upgrade to a ZJ tie rod or some other combination of HD components rather than rebuild stock with new parts when the price is probably going to be pretty close. I put the Crown HD steering kit on mine last year during a full refresh http://www.amazon.com/Crown-Automotive-HDSTRGCR1-Heavy-Steering/dp/B008VPUOSO/ref=sr_1_1 (basically a ZJ tie rod with beefier TREs and a new drag link). I'm pretty happy with the quality of it for the price, but definitely want to swap out the provided TRE boots for some poly ones. There's also a Rugged Ridge setup which looks much beefier than stock for $248, though I haven't read any experiences beyond this one apart from the Amazon reviews: http://www.amazon.com/Rugged-Ridge-18050-82-Heavy-Duty-Conversion/dp/B0013REXY8/ref=sr_1_3

Detroit axles

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HHGTCS6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_GVJZCbRD010K5

Buy the Crown HD Steering Upgrade from Amazon. Brand new and better than stock, it's the V8 ZJ linkage.

That’s what I would do. If you wanna fix the leak.

If you want a permanent fix, buy the hubs.

Rugged Ridge 15001.70 27 Spline Internal Mount Manual Locking Hub for 1998-2000 Ford Ranger and 2001-2008 Mazda B-Series Pickup https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FAGLAM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cHkUCbHNG8TKQ

My dad did the conversion back then so I never fought with 4WD. Lock hubs. Turn dial. Away you go.

Here's a list of the parts you'll need /u/RebornSpartan . I did pretty much the same thing last year.

Also, if you replace one wheel bearing I'd suggest knocking out the other one while you're at it. That also gives you the chance to check the axle shaft u-joints while you're at it.

2x Timken HA597449 Axle Bearing and Hub Assembly - $150

You will also need a 36mm socket specific for the nut on the axle shaft. I bought this one from Amazon when I ordered the wheel bearings: TEKTON 4936 1/2-Inch Drive by 36 mm Deep Impact Socket, 6-Point - $14.

Something to be aware of (paranoia at its finest) is the possibility that your hub bolts may be rusted all to hell and need replaced. Or in case you want to replace them "just because". You can get them from Quadratec @ $4/ea and you will need a total of 3 for each side. Crown Automotive 34201535 Front Knuckle To Hub Bolt

Here are the Moog part #s for the ZJ tie rod upgrade:
1x Moog DS1312 ZJ Tie Rod End - $54
1x Moog ES3096L XJ/ZJ Tie Rod End - $26

You can generally re-use the adjusting sleeve that's already on the components you're going to replace, but in case you want/need a new adjusting sleeve it's only an additional $15.
1x Moog ES2079S XJ/ZJ Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve - $15

While you're down there mucking about with the steering, you should check the drag link and the track bar as well.

If you need/want to replace the drag link assembly, here are the part #s you'll need. Again, you can generally get away with re-using the adjusting sleeve so that will save you $15 if you do.
1x Moog DS1238 Tie Rod End aka Drag Link - $60
1x Moog ES3096L XJ/ZJ Tie Rod End - $26
1x Moog ES2079S XJ/ZJ Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve - $15

For the track bar:
1x Moog DS1235 XJ Track Bar - $59

Now, on to the sway bar links. If the links themselves are still good, all you need to do is replace the bushings.
2x Moog K3150 Sway Bar Link Repair Kit - $17

If your links are crap (usually the top bolt is rusted all to hell, or people don't want to screw with pressing out the old bushings) you can get two of these kits to just do a straight replacement.
2x Moog K3174 Stabilizer Bar Link Kit - $38

And don't forget to replace the mounting bushings for the sway bar while you're at it, also.
1x Moog K3171 Sway Bar Bushing Kit - $10

OTC Hub Grappler

Put it on your Christmas wishlist. It's amazing

This is the Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly:

https://www.amazon.com/Brand-Bearing-Assembly-1999-04-Cherokee/dp/B006WQSGIO

There is no "dust cover" that comes off. I am not sure what they are referring to.

The unit is not serviceable. If there is something wrong with it, the entire unit needs to be replaced.

I replaced mine with Timkin brand. The local shop quoted me $1000 parts & labor. They wanted over $300 EACH for the assemblies. I bought them from Rock Auto for $150 for both and did the job myself because I had the time, tools, garage, and another car.

Genuine E3D Hobb-Goblin - 5mm ID Drive Gear (M-HOBB-V2-50-0-BORE) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LDTFK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Y9F4BbJDERWYG

APDTY 150002x4 Jack Lift Point Pad Adapter Set Of 4 Fits Tesla Model S (Protects Battery, Paint, Side Skirts; Use 1 With A Floor Jack Or All 4 For A 4-Point Professional Vehicle Lift) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HH9FTJX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FPdQCbBVQBV2E


They worked great , some maybe cheaper but I was afraid to save $20 and won’t last me nothing ... some reviews were bad about the cheaper ones

https://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-Brake-Final-Drive-K61030-004B/dp/B00DV2O6C2

So after a little more searching I found a site that had a good diagram so I thought I'd update for future reference.

Here are the part numbers for all the bearings/seals:

• seal-oil, drive pinion - 38189-N3112 (x1)
  
  oem/aftermarket
  
  
• bearing drive pinion front - 38140-V7000 (x1) (this item is discontinued but can still be found at some places)
  
  oem
  
  
• seal-oil differential side - 38342-N3100 (x2)
  
  oem/aftermarket
  
  
• bearing differential side - 38440-N3111 (x2)
  
  oem/aftermarket
  
  
• bearing drive pinion rear - 38120-06P10 (x1)
  
  oem
  
  All OEM price came out to $296.12 and going with the cheapest prices (at least that I could find on a quick search) came out to $218.26. If you do look and find any of the parts cheaper than what I've linked from reputable sites let me know.
  
  Hope this helps someone out.

You shouldn't have to drill out or cut off bolts from a 2001 (but I don't live in the rust belt)

Its pretty straight forward - you bought the entire hub assembly so you don't need a press.

edit - ka36 pointed out you didn't buy an assembly - you will need a shop press to swap out the bearing - to avoid needing a press you will need this


https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-950-004-Pre-Pressed-Assembly-Select/dp/B076JJ8ZNC/ref=asc_df_B076JJ8ZNC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312064685033&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3470606285585674514&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033105&hvtargid=aud-801657747996:pla-568712403509&psc=1

I believe the tool that might help here is a bearing separator... No jaws to slip off...

https://smile.amazon.com/Shankly-Bearing-Separator-Mini-Description/dp/B01LFHNW6A/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1541337802&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=bearing+separator&psc=1

What if I got the entire wheel like this one from amazon ?

Marathon 4.80/4.00-8" Pneumatic (Air Filled) Tire on Wheel, 6" Hub, 5/8" Bearings, Ribbed Tread (Pack of 2)

Seems like that would be cheaper at 19$ for the entire thing and I won't have to have it installed on the old, rusty rims ?

Will that work ?

Since you said that you have new tires and did all the necessary balancing, what comes to mind is a bent front drive shaft or loose joints, this can cause vibration, its a common problem with old Nissan Patrols and the current Y61. A quick and cheap fix that would also reduce fuel consumption is installing free wheel hubs.

https://www.amazon.com/Nissan-Patrol-Locking-Wheeling-Maverick/dp/B017YHU0E2

You can find factory original ones as well. These are installed on the front wheels and when they are free they disengage the front diff and keeps the front drive shaft stationary. The down side is that you can not switch to 4 wheel drive unless you go to each wheel and lock them.

There are some automatic ones but you have to reverse to lock then engag 4 wheel drive.

This is a quick and easy mod anyone who plans on putting their X in water over the axles should do. It takes less than 15 minutes and can save your rear diff.

​

Also, not taking away business from great supporters like Gorilla and PRG, but you can get the parts to do this mod on Amazon for >$25. Just need the axle vent, a filter and 8' of hose with clamps. While you're at it, buy 2 filters and add one to the front diff vent hose that comes up behind the air box.


https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-924-263-Rear-Axle-Differential/dp/B00NF1S0LW/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=rear+axle+vent&qid=1563124009&s=gateway&sr=8-4


https://www.amazon.com/Bikers-Choice-Clear-View-Glass-Filter/dp/B000VSDZIK/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=5%2F16+fuel+filter&qid=1563124185&s=gateway&sr=8-5

Thank you! I found a couple of bb's. Would they be compatible:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sunlite-SL-26-BB-Bb-Set-Sunlt-Sl26-73x127-Sq-Stl-cup-Eng-Sealed-Brg-/282510778267?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c1#viTabs_0
https://www.modernbike.com/sunlite-sl55-73x127-square-taper-jis-bottom-bracket
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Choose-Size-Tange-Square-Taper-Bottom-Bracket-Threaded-68-73mm-Road-MTB-Bike/291828370215?hash=item43f2538b27:m:mzmFhtgs2WbopBfDO8ZXx6Q:sc:USPSFirstClass!94536!US!-1
https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-SL-26-Sealed-Bottom-Bracket/dp/B00H63ONSY

Also this is what you want. It's the same as stock, accept the tie rod is a solid bar instead of hollow. Same thing the ZJ grand Cherokees have

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008VPUOSO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1453240831&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=crown+hd+steering+jeep+tj

I believe this is the deal you need:

Yukon (YMS5778) Replacement Pinion Seal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0078UAIH0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_It4ZBbS9MRJE2

You need to tighten up the yoke properly in order to adjust the preload. You have to take out the carrier to do so (I believe).

Your going to need a Hub bearing press, or a shop press and a set of snap ring pliers if i remember correctly. You could also pull the hubs, buy the bearings and take it to a local shop to press them in. They will change about a 1/2 hr to do them for you.

That's the plan tonight. Not to sound like an idiot, but free spin = bad, lock in = good.

And just to be clear, the problem child part is this one, correct? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042ORWNI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

i replaced a bad check valve on mine and it stopped about half of the noise. then i replaced the solenoid, which didn't fix anything but i left the new one on. then i replaced the factory vacuum line with Napa vacuum hose and it fixed even more but not quite all of it. the final fix was a 2 part; 1) i added a redundant check valve right next to the original figuring how hot that engine bay gets and the cheap ass rubber diaphragm they put in those it would only be a matter of time before it fails again and... 2) dorman IWE replacement.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042ORWNI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They come lightly coated with rollerball grease. I striped them down as much as i could, wiped the grease out and re-packed them with Marine greasehttps://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10320-Marine-Cartridge/dp/B005973H5Y

The whole system inst very big, are you getting at least 15" vacuum from the engine? does the solenoid work? its the check valve going in the right direction and does it hold at least 15"? are the lines tight? disconnected from the system using a vacuum test pump or smoke machine, do the IWEs hold vacuum?