Best starters & alternators according to redditors

GM part number: 23502557:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075VNXNJW/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_i_c_Dar4Bb1CJZEFG

This bolts onto the front end of the starter with a stud: M8x1.25x25 I believe that it uses the same stud on both ends of the bracket.

Here is a diagram:

https://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=367988&ukey_product=2990452

Replace starter bolts at the same time. They may be worn from flexing. Mine were.

Replace them...they're like 10 bucks with prime shipping.

Also it could be the solenoid. I did mine and have never had an issue since. (I lied i actually paid a dude $60 to do mine because im lazy)

Allow me to give you some advice. I too have a Badland bumper but really this is advice for any steel bumper that comes raw. Apply POR-15 as a base and then POR-15 top coat per their exact instructions. A normal rattle can job is not going to hold up to the elements. I am having to strip the rattle can job I did because it didn't hold up and has caused numerous rust spots. You can find both products here:

This kit will give you everything you need to apply the base of POR-15

http://www.amazon.com/POR-15-45009-Gloss-Black-Starter/dp/B00J594B5C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420640042&sr=8-2&keywords=por-15

This is the top coat. It also comes in a gloss variety if you prefer.

http://www.amazon.com/POR-15-45918-Chassis-Black-Coat/dp/B00MBFOHEW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420640098&sr=8-2&keywords=por-15+top+coat

This combination can not be beat for its tough as nails finish and rust prevention all in one. Enjoy your bumper!

Same... I ended up dropping my bike in the garage breaking a signal, and the taillight was already cracked so I went with a DRC Edge light... looks much better, easy enough to install.

http://www.twistedthrottle.ca/drc-edge-tail-light-with-aluminum-tail-light-holder-for-suzuki-drz400s-00-14-drz400sm-05-14

That didn't include blinkers... but they are only another $20 or $30... i had to add resistors for the blinkers though otherwise they flashed too fast... I got the resistors off amazon, I think. https://www.amazon.ca/AMAZENAR-Resistor-Running-Blinker-Cancellor/dp/B015JHP5QC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1492819468&sr=8-3&keywords=led+resistor

Sorry about all of the Canadian pricing... I'm in Canada so those are the links I know.

You need load resistors when replacing halogen bulbs with LEDs

X-post this to r/mechanicadvice

Absolutely worth it. I have an Engel fridge and I originally wasn't going to do solar. But I found that If I wanted to park for more than a day or if I didn't drive at least 50 miles everyday, the battery would slowly drain down to the cutoff point within a week. I installed one 100-watt panel and I can leave the van parked for as long as i want and the battery stays charged and I never have to turn off the fridge.

I just use a continuous-duty solenoid that connects the house and main batteries when the ignition is on for alternator charging. Nothing fancy. And a sunsaver charge controller for the solar here's a link list I made for a friend who installed a similar setup:

Solar Panel:
http://www.amazon.com/Grape-Solar-GS-STAR-100W-Polycrystalline-100-watt/dp/B00CAVMMMG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1438626722&sr=8-1&keywords=grape+solar

Mounting Feet:
http://www.amazon.com/Grape-Solar-GS-ZB-Fab1-Zippity-Off-Grid/dp/B00MS8AKUM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1438626722&sr=8-5&keywords=grape+solar

Connectors:
http://www.amazon.com/Islandoffer-Pairs-Female-Solar-Connectors/dp/B00A8TRKJW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1438633077&sr=8-1&keywords=MC4+connectors

Charge Controller (don't skimp here and don't get an MPPT controller for just a panel or three):
http://www.amazon.com/Morningstar-SS-20L-12V-SunSaver-Charge-Controller/dp/B007NNHUHI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1438633118&sr=8-3&keywords=sunsaver

Battery:
I got the x2 Power from Batteries plus. it's not bad, but the battery i should have gotten is this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Lifeline-GPL-27T-AGM-Battery/dp/B004OA25PU/ref=pd_sim_sbs_200_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0P8HYGYQ24QVWZARFF4Z - which Batteries plus should be able to get, which means less or no shipping.

Fuse Block:
http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Block/dp/B000THQ0CQ/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1438633797&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=blue+sea+fuse

Volt meter:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BZPNICG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Solenoid:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0064MX7US/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687442&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0050I94XG&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0F2ZN9606RB53XSFR2EC

Onan Quiet Diesel 8000. They make them up to 10 KW for the all electric class-A rigs. Outside you can hear it run, but more than a few feet away it is not very noticable. Inside the front, you hear a gentle 'humm' of the generator, but in the bedroom you can't hear it at all.

However, they are not cheap...

Personally, I build switching relays myself to route DC power to certain functions when needed. The item that I live by is a solenoid from golf cart.

Max 300A Continuous Duty Solenoid Relay Nickel-Plating For Golf Carts ,Winch, Marine In Rush 12VDC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072MZHK48/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YC5PCbMWC2SN3


Ex: When the engine is running, the alternator ignite wire (depending on your alternator, but most have a wire that "ignites" the charge current) is hooked up to the solenoid, and applies power only when engine is running. You can do this with anything that is DC, and a solenoid needs only a small amount of amperage to close the circuit.

Not quite. They are called switvhback. It's a bulb with about 10 leds on it, half amber half white. When driving normal they glow white but when you the turn signal they flash amber. This is what I picked up: JDM ASTAR Extremely Bright 3030 Chipsets White/Yellow 7441 7443 7444 Switchback LED Bulbs with Projector For Turn Signal Lights(Brightest Switchback bulb on the market) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017C6B5JO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NW3qybA353513

You also need to pick up some resisters since they don't pull enough power and the car will make them hyperflash as if a bulb is out. I have some of these: 4Pcs Aaron 50W 6ohm Load Resistors - Fix LED Bulb Fast Hyper Flash Turn Signal Blink Error Code https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L4V9ECY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HY3qybDEKE0XE

Yeah make sure it doesn't leak. Pour some water on them. If it leaks. Walk away.

If it doesn't leak of sand those down a bit and use this por 15 starter kit just make sure you paint over it afterwards because that stuff doesn't hold up to UV rays.

Also, make sure to check the age of the tires on the van. If you look at them closely there should be a four digit code that tells you the month and year of manufacture. I just had a spare with 0 miles on it blow up and do some serious collateral damage to my old b250 when it blew up going 60mph. Turns out it was manufactured in 2002. You're supposed to replace them every 10 years. Found this out the hard way and dropped $775 bucks for new shoes. I wasn't happy about it. Even if they look perfect (this one did) change them. Not worth it.

I paid $40 for a saturn sl2 starter, $46 for a buick lesabre starter, $52 for a honda accord starter. Honda civic starter $38.

What are you talking about? I have replaced quite a few and never paid much for them. Those are for brand new ones. Remans are normally like $30 or less. You just overpay.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y867DA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R1EMWJ0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Premier-Gear-PG-17871-Professional-Starter/dp/B00KY0KXMG/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1493329518&vehicle=2004-59-752-912--1-9-5-7385-2050-1-1-2359--9-0&sr=1-3&ymm=2004%3Ahonda%3Acivic&keywords=starter

there are a few links for you. Most starters are inexpensive and those are brand new quality ones. I purchased them and they work.

Headlights (you only need one pair. the cutoff is outstanding)

Map lights, license plate lights, running tail lights, and side marker lights

Reverse lights

Front turn signals (accessible from under the vehicle - pin remover and 10mm socket needed)

Rear turn signals (requires tail light disassembly)

Turn signal resistors (required to prevent hyperflashing; soldering is recommended)

Brake lights (requires tail light disassembly)

Daytime-running lights (pliers needed)

Trunk light and dome light

https://www.amazon.com/4Pcs-Aaron-6ohm-Load-Resistors/dp/B00L4V9ECY/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2CRPCGSQG5P1V&keywords=led+turn+signal+resistor&qid=1570538089&sprefix=led+turn+signa%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-4. You may need to read up on what ohm rating you want but this should be similar to what you need. Also, don't worry too much about the heat warnings they have all over the page, if its just for a quick signal it wont get too hot but just be aware

You'll need to add some resistors to the blinker wiring, or possibly switch to a no-load flasher. Basically, the factory flasher won't work because the LEDs don't provide enough resistance for it to function. You can get resistors at brick-and-mortar auto parts stores or online retailers. Here's an example on Amazon.

Or, if you don't want to mess with the wiring you can switch back to incandescents and the blinkers will probably start working again (unless something else is wrong!)

Also, take this as an opportunity to clean your ground connections with a wire brush. There should be 1 in the back (under the bed near the bumper), and 2 up front (1 near each headlight).

That is a very cute chip but as far as I know it isn't used in any commercial products.

I mean boards like this. Though that is pretty expensive for one. And the built-in volt meter can't be trusted. Mine reads 0.2V low.

Overcharge is prevented by the set voltage on the regulator. But you want a buck regulator not a boost. Bucks will lower the voltage. A 12V 1A panel can be lowered to 4V (and 3 amps) that the batteries need for charging. Set the voltage correctly and they won't be over charged.

A simple "dumb" switching regulator won't be as perfect as MPPT but it will be close. And it will be far better than PWM choppers most <100W controllers use.

You can easily fix this by wiring in some load resistors.

Like these ones

https://www.amazon.com/4PCS-ARTR-6ohm-Load-Resistors/dp/B00UNG3EXQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504056564&sr=8-3&keywords=load+resistor

I ordered it a few days ago using my credit card through paypal just in case the part ends up being garbage or never comes then I can dispute the charge. I ordered a stator off of amazon:
TCMT Magneto Generator Engine... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010DMO0QE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

It just came yesterday and I will install both as soon as i get the rotor. It looks good though..

https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-High-Alternator-Chevrolet-Suburban/dp/B01ACGUWVI this one looks closer to what he has

something like this continuous duty solenoid would work well. takes the idea of having a relay switch and makes it more idiot proof. the last thing you want is to forget to disengage your primary battery from your house battery & wake up to a non-starting vehicle

Something like this. Make sure you get one that can handle what your alternator puts out.
https://www.amazon.com/CONTINUOUS-SOLENOID-GOLF-CARTS-1114208/dp/B008R1T5IM

A starter solenoid would be something else to try that could be found cheap or free. You would only need 1.

Edit: This looks like a starter solenoid, but might be a bit beefier and marketed for continuous use: http://www.amazon.com/CONTINUOUS-SOLENOID-GOLF-CARTS-1114208/dp/B008R1T5IM/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1TX8JDH10MBQ6S2MZ97J

Had to dig them out of my order history... here you go! (-:

Headlights-got a set for MIL's 2010 Forster and FIL's 2006 Forester... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FXP4KRS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CAlzDbM6HHTV4

Turn signals for the front...(Aurora) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PY4VDD4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sBlzDbFYTEF0R

These are the resisters for the turn signals so they don't blink fast...(both cars)... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UNG3EXQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BClzDbADZV5S6

License plate lights and marker lights (I think he used these for both)... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0186P1MUW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9BlzDb01J1YPN

Fog lights for the Aurora, they can be yellow or blue, just have to turn the switch off and back on... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DGY4LQK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UIlzDbSPTJ0EF

Headlights in the Aurora, can be a white/blue or yellow, switch off and on... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MF1RY6V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZJlzDbQFKK85N

Tail lights/brake lights for the Aurora... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NPIUFMM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JLlzDbYRDS6B4

Sorry all the links are Amazon, hubby works there, so he gets a discount...the rear fog light bulbs must have come from somewhere else though, that's the only thing I can't find in our order history... unless it's the same bulbs as the brakes, there are two on that order...

If it is the starter solenoid and he has the 3.9/5.2/5.9 gasoline engine in it then it's a super easy fix that should take around 30 minutes. First disconnect the battery as you're going to have a live wire hanging that will ground itself against anything metal on the truck and roast a fuse. Roll under the truck and you'll see the starter hanging off the side of the transmission on the driver's side. There's 2 or 3 bolts holding it on, one electrical connector and a power cable going to it held on by a nut. Disconnect all of those and it will slide out of the bell housing there. Now, with it out of the vehicle, you can take the 3 small 8 mm screws off the back of the starter which will allow you into the solenoid part of the starter. Pull out the old solenoid, loosen the two contacts inside by removing the nuts and put the new contacts in, tighten those two bolts, replace the plunger with a new one. Bolt on the cover to the solenoid making sure to clean the gasket first. Now place it back in the hole on the flywheel cover on the transmission, replace the mounting bolts, bolt the power cable back on and connect the electrical connector. Connect the battery back up and it should fire up right away.

Part you will need for this job: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031HMS7C/

To second this, you'll need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Zento-Deals-Pieces-Load-Resistors/dp/B01N0ZKV1R/ Not saying that's the correct one, but that's the idea.

you want to put the fuse between the battery and the switch grounding to the frame would work just fine. I would use a 20 amp fuse that way you blow the fuse before the switch gets overloaded. you can also ground the eng to the frame. this is the type of relay I would use
Cole Hersee (24059-BP) 12V Insulated SPST Continuous Duty Solenoid https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064MX7US/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_T8IqDbHS3ESDJ

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017GGC6WK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HKm3Cb6548VES

Maybe this will clarify: https://www.amazon.com/Cole-Hersee-24059-BP-Insulated-Continuous/dp/B0064MX7US/ref=pd_sbs_263_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=41jsjsit2KL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=MH7BMKXWB4AYVXXH118B

Is the solenoid I plan on using

Thank you all for the constructive comments! I apologize for having confusing information. It even took me a minute to compile it with what I thought to be an understandable manner because it even confuses me if I don't go through it in one breath. I'm going to do my best to clear things up.

u/velaazul , Here is a schematic I drew. - http://imgur.com/a/Zldos
Not the best drawing but I did it as I pieced it together, I could try to do another to clean it up a bit.

HouseBatt is the car battery. Batt1/Batt2 are deep cycle batteries. Currently this draft is a two 12v deep cycle battery operation. I still need to spend some time calculating (and understanding) what my daily/weekly power consumption would look like to see if two batteries will be sufficient for my lifestyle. I'm also trying to figure out how long I will have to run my car to charge these.

I don't necessarily plan on doing this under my current build for more than a year so there is room for improvement beyond this. With that said I know it may not be the most efficient setup possible, but I need to get my feet moving forward and make this happen.

Fuses are something I am conflicted about. I've seen instructionals that incorporate fuses, and I've seen builds that don't. I've heard people say you need them and heard people tell me I don't. If I do indeed need fuses put in place I would put a fuse between the Small Solenoid terminal to the alternator. and the 2nd fuse would be from the House Battery positive wire to the Deep Cycle Battery 2.

u/Y_BOT , am I misunderstanding the function of the solenoid? From what I understood it would function independently and control the flow of electricity from the alternator to the car battery and then to the deep cycle. When I turn the key in the car that should activate the solenoid switch to charge my car battery and deep cycle. When I draw power from the deep cycle the solenoid should act as the barrier between the deep cycle and the car battery so I never drain my cars battery when using the deep cycles. In the schematic I drew I have included the solenoid and an alternative- an isolator switch. If possible I'd prefer to wire the solenoid so I don't have to manually disconnect batteries.

u/MythicalMover , I plan on purchasing 8 guage wire, however I have not purchased any of the materials yet. I have written out a list of necessary equipment for this project with rough cost estimates. I'm trying to square away my setup before I move forward with buying what I need. I plan on going to auto parts stores and Lowe's to browse wires, lugs, batteries, ect. Also you've hit on another point that I need to flesh out. That being the load capacity for the solenoid connected to my alternator and then potentially the fuses and their load capacities.

Every time I come back to work on all this power planning it alternates between seeming simpler than I previously thought to more complicated and back and forth between the two.


Again, thank you all for the direction and the help! I will also attach links to a few products I am looking at buying for this project. I use most of these as visual representations though. I want to go to a store to actually see and hold a tool before I buy it to ensure I feel right about what I need.

Might need these: https://www.amazon.com/Plated-Battery-Terminal-Positive-Nagative/dp/B00ORH1W2W/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1486148779&sr=1-3&keywords=car+battery+terminal

This is the solenoid that I have in mind. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0064MX7US/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0064MX7US&linkCode=as2&tag=rvlifenetwork-20&linkId=TL56E2B62BVKAEKJ

2nd considered solenoid: https://www.amazon.com/Intellitec-Battery-Disconnect-Relay-Prevents-Batteries/dp/B00KPR8QAO/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4S939F2G73BZBDQ6JZA9

Inverter (though I might up it if I need more watt handling if need be): https://www.amazon.com/Cobra-400-Watt-12-Volt-120-Volt-Inverter/dp/B001RNOHBC/ref=sr_1_7?m=A2VVWG2KXGK6N2&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1485455953&sr=1-7

Deep cycle battery consideration: https://www.batteriesplus.com/battery/marine-and-boat/deep-cycle/bci-group-27m/sli27mdc

8 guage wire: https://www.amazon.com/Ancor-Marine-Grade-Duplex-Cables/dp/B000NV0BNM/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1486225382&sr=1-1&keywords=8+gauge+wire

(optional) Isolator switch: https://www.amazon.com/Marine-Battery-Disconnect-Switch-Isolator/dp/B00EBQOKEQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1486225429&sr=1-2&keywords=isolator+switch

I also intend to protect my wires with conduits. If necessary I will need to buy lugs and shrink insulation to "make" my own wires for this project. Crimping is something I would imagine I could find a friend to help with or get done at a store.

Hopefully I covered everything, let me know if I am still missing any information and again sorry this was all not included in my original post!

The resistor goes between the positive wire for the turn signal / brake light and the ground wire.

Here's a picture for reference.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UNG3EXQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

Nice van!

Don't be too intimidated with adding a house battery. You can do it.

Very in-depth guide for adding a house battery with solenoid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zrwHyy4qyY

This is the battery I used, it ROCKS. (smaller and cheaper options from same company available)

Other items I used...

• Continuous Duty Solenoid
  
• Heavy Gauge Wire 2 AWG
  
• Ring Terminals for Heavy Gauge Wire
  
• ANL Fuse Holder
  
• ANL Fuses 100 Amp
  
• Lighter Gauge Wire
  
• Terminals and Connectors for Lighter Gauge Wire
  
• Heat Shrink Assortment
  
• Circuit breaker (alternative to ANL fuses, works as master disconnect too)
  
• Fuse Block (for all devices connected to house battery)

Be careful doing that, mine came with warnings saying to not mount it near anything but metal. I bought these but removed them after I tested to verify that they fixed the light blink, which they did.. but that copper piece was burning hot to the touch. I can only foresee that catching fire one day so I opted out of keeping it

Get a $19 continuous duty solenoid (http://amzn.to/2eJkQSO) a $22 50A fuse (http://amzn.to/2eAWFCL) and then don't worry about the other stuff.

Here you go. You can probably find this for cheaper somewhere else, but I paid the premium for the convenience of Amazon.

These are the ones I used.

Brake lights: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P2D3W0A/

Reverse lights: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N6CEGVI/

Turn signals: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJ7S1T4/

6 ohm resistors: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4V9ECY/

I just ordered this 150a solenoid: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008R1T5IM/ref=pe_825000_114657650_TE_item

I don't really know how much my battery is going to draw, but my alternator is only 120A so it should be quite within the limit.

So, an alternator like this https://www.amazon.com/DB-Electrical-AND0525-Alternator-Chevrolet/dp/B00KGIDF9Y/ref=br_lf_m_82annu2ancpt4mu_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=automotive ?
Edit: but at that price I would probably just buy a rock tumbler.

I just ordered this one on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Premier-Gear-PG-11070-Professional-Alternator/dp/B00KY07C5W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1551060096&sr=8-3&keywords=alternator+2012+gti

What do the tools you've recommended do?

My understanding is that I need to disconnect the battery. Then with a 17 mm socket or breaker bar retract the belt tensioner, hold it out of the way with a hex key as a pin. Pull the belt off the alternator, remove the bolts, pull it out, remove the cable, then do it in reverse.

I'd be pretty pissed about that. But yeah without load resistors, if the new lights are LEDs then you will still have the same issue. You'll need something like this to prevent it.

4Pcs Aaron 50W 6ohm Load Resistors - Fix LED Bulb Fast Hyper Flash Turn Signal Blink Error Code https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L4V9ECY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_V7UXAbB9DVN53

It's pretty straightforward to install, just Google it or message me if you need help with them. I'd recommend mounting them on metal where they won't come into contact with plastic though as they may heat up.

They're alright. If you can afford to retrofit, I recommend doing that. Avoid any of the aftermarket lights that have projector lenses. They're all garbage from everything I have heard. The ones I got are nice because they fit the stock light (9007) and fit my pre-existing HID kit. I'm running 5000K Kensun HID's for my fog lights and my headlights (headlights are lo/hi). They're bright as hell but in Texas, it is illegal to run HID's without projector lenses and for good reason. (they spread across the road and are not controlled)


These are the headlights. They feel strong and solid but I had to return two passenger sides before I got one that worked properly. (the halo rings were not acting right).

The wiring was pretty straight forward. I wired my halo rings into the fog light's relay so they kick on with the driving lights.

Another neat little thing to get to complete the badass look are some switch back LED turn signals. I got these.

If you decide to get the switchbacks, don't forget to get the load resisters. Otherwise your turn signals will blink too fast.

Also, it doesn't look like a 98 because I have installed the 03 edge front-end and hood.

I will upload some night photos tonight. its hard to get the lighting right on my camera at night to where you can actually tell how they look. I'll do my best.