Best automotive replacement sensors according to redditors

50's Kid (Super Awesome): https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCml-eeSLJZ38Q5_sUnUXrZw

Shop Life TV (Pretty effen gewd): https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5jnm5CEnLSEmoQ-ktgAj6g

Well the people in the forums are the people with the problems, but that's not to say they aren't the most knowledgeable group of people about the e46. But the youngest E46 is 12 years old, so unless it's a garage kept car from an old couple, it'll have to be fixed a little soon into your ownership. You'll be advised to do $300,000 in preventative maintenance when on the forums, don't. I love my car but I only paid $3,000 for mine had I done everything the forum members suggested I would've spent another $3,000 in repairs. Keep up on your plugs and coils. If I'm not mistaken the 328s and 325s have transmissions made by GM and no one cares for them, so wait for a 330. I'm sure I'll get corrected on the transmissions but whatevs enjoy the plethora of links.

A Bosche fuel pump from Amazon is $130 and the gasket is $20.

Pump:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZJE9C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Gasket:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0054JTTFO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The exact fuel filter $60:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006Q7HDII/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

OEM plugs are $35, again Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DERDU44/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

DISA rebuild kit is $80 (DO THIS ONE ASAP, It's the one thing I always tell people, it'll prevent a steel pin from falling into a cylinder and ruining your engine) I bought mine from G.A.S. German Auto Sport I think. I love their warranty, if my DISA fails they'll give me that $80 towards one of their DISA units, like $400

Coolant system:
Expansion tank - $30 (Amazon) - known as the most likely failure

Radiator -$150 (AutoZone)
Lower radiator hose - $30 (Advance)

Temp sensor in lower hose - $8 (Amazon)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FU9H9PO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Upper radiator hose - $30 (AutoZone)
Water pump - $55 (AutoZone)
Thermostat - $55 (AutoZone)

Transmission intercooler thermostat - $16 (Amazon)

https://www.amazon.com/Orion-Cooler-Expansion-Thermostat-17111437362/dp/B074K8SXL8/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522204403&sr=1-2-fkmr1&keywords=e46+transmission+intercooler+thermostat

I was able to remove the radiator without being about to tell the water pump had an issue. Installed the new radiator, gave my fan a wiggle and then knew I had replaced two hoses, an expansion tank, and a radiator for nothing. Cost: confidence as myself as a mechanic and an engineer and $295 (didn't replace the temp sensor or thermostat, and I was lucky enough to reuse the transmission intercooler thermostat!!!!!!11!1!!11!!)


I paid $90 for a pack of coils 40,000 miles ago. The entire CCV is $55, you guessed it, Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/11617501566-11611432559-11617504535-11157532649-11617504536/dp/B00I3RBDDK/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522204499&sr=1-2&keywords=e46+CCV


One pair of HID headlights - $28
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GRTEMCO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1



For two years of ownership starting at 153,000 miles and currently at 197,000, 8 months of driving 110 miles a day, five days a week, and now I drive 800 miles a week.

The hardest on this list are the fuel filter (unless you have access to a lift, I hate putting my car on stands) and the CCV, to replace the CCV you have to remove the intake manifold.

The DISA takes 10 minutes if you take the time to drink a beer MAKE SURE YOU BUY A KIT THAT INCLUDES A NEW GASKET

If you have problems head to here or the forums, I feel like I've written a book, but I spent forever tracking a couple issues only to find out it was the plugs. Check the plugs first.




Essential tools:

OBD2 WIFI adapter: $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W0SDLRY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Regular socket set: $73

https://www.amazon.com/Kobalt-64-piece-Standard-metric-Mechanics/dp/B00GR8WEDU/ref=sr_1_24?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1522203667&sr=1-24&keywords=Kobalt+Socket+set

(5mm to 16mm or so, and includes bits you'll really want a wide flathead, Torx 25 or 30 for the cabin air filter mounting screws, and Philips, double check what this one includes)


Torque wrench: $35
https://www.amazon.com/Tacklife-Calibrated-13-6-108-5Nm-Certification-Extension/dp/B073VLDLQR/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1522203362&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=torque+wrench&psc=1


6”-8" Socket extension: $10
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-4966-8-Inch-Extension-3-Piece/dp/B000NW85F2/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1522203436&sr=1-6&keywords=8%22+socket+extension


Fan removal tool set - $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTV8EO4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc150=1


Including all tools that's $850 Hope this helps, the car is really easy to work on, I enjoy driving it. One last piece of advice never short trip your car, especially in cold weather, you could fill the CCV with mayo and it could lead to hydrolocking/self destruction of the engine. If you live South of Pennsylvania you shouldn't have to worry too much, some people put an ounce or so of Seafoam into the CCV a month. You don't need to follow these links to the tee but they should help.

no, no performance loss, it's the same thing. I bought a $14 O2 removal bracket https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-47749-8-Inch-Offset-Oxygen/dp/B00GMN4D1Q/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1501031562&sr=8-4&keywords=o2+sensor+socket

Mine was the upstream heated O2, bank 1. there are 4 sensors. 2 for each exhaust. one is upstream, one is downstream of the cat. I have a friend with a car lift so we just lifted it and went to work. Took an hour. Including rotating tires while it was up on the lift.

IPD:

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/5728/113129-engine-coolant-temperature-sensor

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/5342/103084-thermostat-90-c-850-c70-s70-s60-s80-v70-xc70-2001-2004-s40-v40

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/8819/115413-water-pump-bolt

$31.54 plus shipping, which is like $6 I think. IPD is awesome but more expensive.

Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B004Z76EKE/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=all

https://www.amazon.com/Engine-Coolant-Temperature-Sensor-9125463/dp/B01FU2TWTC

$18.19 with Prime if you get the Warehouse Deals thermostat, but no bolts (too expensive to bother).

Pick your poison. If $20 is a big deal to you right now then go Amazon, but hurry before that cheap t-stat disappears.

The fix is easy - pull the upper coolant hose and have a container to catch the coolant. Use a wrench to get the coolant sensor off. Use a star bit to get the thermostat housing off. Get the old thermostat out, pop the new one in with seal, cover and bolts back in, new sensor in the housing, hose back on. Start the car, let it come up to temp, then pour the coolant back in the overflow reservoir. Top off with water if necessary. Maybe a 20 minute job.

http://i.imgur.com/TtE0Z16.jpg

From Amazon: $3 Billion dollars ($3,132,018,433.00 to be precise) Bosch 15361 Oxygen Sensor

Edit: Down from a list price of $3,758,422,120.00 - Savings of $600 million

ACDelco 22834330 GM Original Equipment Cabin Air Temperature Sensor Aspirator https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B008B5TVC4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_a2iYCbW2DZQCT

I just did the rear sensor on my 01 last weekend.

• I did the plug and play OEM-style one out of laziness. Zero problems with that, everything fit, getting under the carpet was easy after taking out the driver's seat + center console
  
  
• I used an O^2 sensor socket like this and it did its job fine
  
  
• I didn't have room to get a 1/2" drive socket in there, but used a 3/8" with an a random metal pipe as an ad hoc breaker bar and it came out NBD.
  
  The bad...
  
  
• The OEM-style cable has a pair of metal plates attached to some standoffs on the exhaust to keep it off of the exhaust and driveshaft... mine were rusted to shit on a California car. 10mm and 3/8" sockets spun with no effect (kinda visible on the first photo); 9mm sockets couldn't fit. I ended up breaking the rusty metal tab off and working out some BS with metal wire to hold the cable in place.
  
  I'd take a look at it before taking out the driver's seat and jacking the car up, possibly hit it with PB blaster beforehand and/or have an alternate plan :D

> I'm def the paranoid mom

I can tell :P

>Is this a DIY that someone not super knowledgeable on cars could do?

Mmm, probably. Trickiest bit is getting a tool that will get onto the sensor. If you're comfortable working lying down on the floor, you can probably do this without a lift or jackstands, but you'll need to take down the cover along the bottom of the car. It's held up by 3 12mm bolts and a ton of little plastic clips. Once that cover is off, it's just a matter of unclipping the sensor wiring and then unbolting the sensor. If you are standing at the front of the car looking down into the engine bay, you can see the top of the sensor if you look straight down the front of the engine, kind of in the middle or slightly to the passenger side of middle. If I remember right it's got a green wrap around the wire. I use one of these sockets and a flexible-head 3/8" ratchet to get them on and off, so you'll need to find something similar. Just remember your lefty-loosey and if it really doesn't want to come loose, don't force it as you don't want to rip the threads out of the cat pipe.

I think that 2 100 watt panels and a MPPT charge controller that has temperature compensation is a good start. I recommend MPPT as it means that you can add on more panels in series if you decide you want more power.

that will use 15-18 amps on the controller, so 30 amp or 40 amp will work. the 40 amp will give you more options for expansion.

I generally recommend starting modestly, but making sure you have a current monitoring shunt like this one:

https://www.amazon.ca/Voltmeter-Ammeter-Voltage-Current-Motorhome/dp/B07FGFFHC6/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=shunt&qid=1572507111&sr=8-11

or this one, if you can spend a couple extra bucks:

https://www.amazon.ca/Victron-BAM010700000-BMV-700-Battery-Monitor/dp/B01BVQR0V8/ref=sr_1_9?crid=ZBWAN561Q25B&keywords=victron+battery+monitor&qid=1572507173&sprefix=victron+ba%2Caps%2C167&sr=8-9

if you start with a small system and monitor it you can start to ask and answer questions like:

Do my batteries fully charge during the day?

Do my batteries last the night?

Can i survive a cloudy day?

What devices are really expensive to run?

How can i modify my behavior to draw less power?

paperwork and measuring are a good start and will give you a good idea, but if you plan for a small system you can start to monitor the real world performance of it all and expand the system in the right area for your needs.

final note, you say you currently have batteries. make sure they aren't car batteries, and are designed for deep cycle use... otherwise they will pooch out very quickly.

I've heard these offset sockets get more leverage. They have that freeze spray (wart remover in a bigger automotive spray can. Soak with penetrating spray overnight?

Sorry, I've got you beat:
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-15361-Oxygen-Sensor/dp/B000CF1WNM/ref=pd_sbs_jw_3

You can get a bung welded in or find an exhaust shop that has them.

JT2BG22K7Y0499835

I think this is what I need. https://www.amazon.com/YourRadiator-YR279S-Replacement-Vehicle-Transmission/dp/B01LZXSU3R/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1525021322&sr=1-2&keywords=2000+camry+speed+sensor

Yes. You can pick up a monitor, that you "ought" to have anyway and just mount it near the gaming center.

I use a Victron Energy Battery Monitor, BMV-700, but they're are bunches out there that do about the same thing.

I have mine mounted a ways away from the battery bank. It comes with a long cable just for this reason.

Google says it's the MAP sensor.

https://www.amazon.com/09359409-Manifold-Absolute-Pressure-Sensor/dp/B07932J4NF

So you did replace the head? What was the price on the head itself? Heck, even full rebuild.

I thought I blew my head last month - Thank fuck it was just the Rad.

​

Water Temp Gauge

npt Fitting (check the size of your rad hose)

also I have:

Engine Gaurd - It is a bolt on sensor. It runs about 10c cooler on the highway (about 3-5c cooler in the city) than my digital but it has an alarm that screams if I hit a set temp. Great for highway or city driving. I would do it differently with a cheaper one next time. it's all the same shit.

​

egt and boost I've yet to buy. I blanked my EGR I'm sort of waffling what route I want to go. Do I go all in with a digital display setup or analog gauges. I do not have the pod cluster like other delicas do so placing a few gauges could potentially look ugly.

or you can just get a plug from Amazon and paint the top black

the coolant temp gauge? leave it unplugged and see if it reads the coolant temp

edit:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KRQ9R6B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i bought this one for mine a few months ago.

https://www.amazon.com/UAUS-53141-35060-Garnish-Sensor-2018-2019/dp/B07WS5FPPF/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=tacoma+grill+sensor&qid=1566830192&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExSUNRVEI0OTFKUEo5JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjk3NjA2MkRCV09HQUNLT0tYWiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjYxNzE1MlBMQzBNVzFVM0NTQSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

The seller I bought from ran out, this looks like the same.

Cabin temperature sensor fan ACDelco 22834330 GM Original Equipment Cabin Air Temperature Sensor Aspirator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008B5TVC4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5hvRCbG48Q4MN3

Naturally right after I make a post I remember this thing called Google and find what I need.

It looks like it's a little door chime speaker thing but behind it is actually a small fan.

Its common for this gen civic to eat o2 sensors once in a while. if it ever pops up, usually replacing it works fine as long as its the only DTC you have. Bosch o2 sensor and the deep well o2 socket (prefer amazon one here and not this one from autozone as its weak and could strip your sensor)

The top of the strut shaft should have something you can put some kind of wrench on. Sometimes it's a small hex section you can put a small 3/8 drive socket on. Sometimes it's a hex socket for a hex key/"Allen wrench".

What size is the nut? If it's 22mm (7/8"), you can sometimes use an oxygen sensor like this one https://amzn.com/B00390BS7C to turn the nut while holding the shaft from the top. Other times you can use an offset box wrench and hold the top while you tighten it.

http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00390BS7C

> how big of a job am I looking at?

We need to make sure your wiring harness is not damaged/chewed by critters before making that call. Wiring repairs generally aren't too hard if you know how to properly cut and splice. The O2 sensor is only 4 wires. The sensor itself is only held in by the threads, so it's as easy as unscrewing the old one and screwing the new one back in. Sometimes these oxygen sensor adapters for your ratchet can help a lot for loosening the old one since it can be on there pretty tight.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001H1IRTM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the one I bought. I suppose there's a possibility it could just be a bad sensor right out of the box.

edit: Looks like I may have bought the wrong sensor? Now I'm not really sure which one of these I need as comments on both show people claiming they work with the 7.3. Here's the other.

The one I bought is the F4TZ, this one is the F7TZ

https://www.amazon.com/Ford-F7TZ-12K073-B-F7TZ-12K073-B-SENSOR-CAMSHAFT-PO/dp/B001H1OFZM/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

edit 2: After checking with Ford the F7TZ is the right part number. Both will fit however.

I will do this as well. I dont know what type I should buy though. Google isnt helping me out much because I really don't know what I'm looking at. I found this one on Amazon that says will fit my truck.

I've never seen a carb'd vehicle with an O2 sensor bung. But the kit comes with one to weld on. They're really cheap. https://www.amazon.com/Vibrant-1194A-Standard-Oxygen-Sensor/dp/B00180870Q

yes sir



https://www.amazon.com/Vibrant-1194A-Standard-Oxygen-Sensor/dp/B00180870Q

Does it have a underhood label that says it is a California emissions vehicle?

I'm 99.99% positive it will. If this is the sensor in front of the cat, you need part # 234-9002 from denso
https://www.amazon.com/Denso-234-9002-Fuel-Ratio-Sensor/dp/B000C5YCYS

Update for anyone who might have searched for this:

I ordered this cheap OBD2 reader from ebay and it pulled up fault code P1135, which is a faulty air/intake sensor (Bank 1, Sensor 1).

The replacement sensor is about $95 on Amazon.

Here is the OEM upstream sensor you need: http://www.amazon.com/Denso-234-4099-Oxygen-Sensor/dp/B000C5WCN6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1380741249&sr=8-1&keywords=2344099

You don't necessarily have to buy it off Amazon but they have the best price for it. Denso is Hondas OEM manufacturer. Make sure it is the Denso 234-4099 model number. It is what it came with. Also, for spark plugs and wires, use NGK. NGK ZFR5F-11. You should be able to go to an auto parts store and get those. It shouldn't cost more than $3 a piece and you need 4. Here are the spark plug wires: http://www.amazon.com/NGK-HE76-Premium-Spark-Plug/dp/B000IY8ODS/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1380741594&sr=1-1-fkmr1&ymm=1998%3Ahonda%3Acivic&keywords=1998+honda+civic+dx+spark+plug+wires

As for tools, you'll need a 7/8" offset o2 sensor socket and a breaker bar because it will be on tight! For the spark plugs, you'll need a 5/8 spark plug socket with a rubber piece or a magnet inside to grip the spark plug. the wires won't require tools but you'll need a bit of dielectric grease to prevent the elements from getting to the connections.

I recommend you use this spark plug socket. It's treated me really well and is very durable: http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-80546-8-Inch-6-Inch-Swivel/dp/B0014ZVSVK/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1380741751&sr=1-1&keywords=spark+plug+tool Also, it won't hurt if you go and buy a 3/8" 6" extension for your 3/8" ratchet.

Also posted the wrong link I wanted this brand. TIA

https://www.amazon.com/Denso-234-4099-Oxygen-Sensor/dp/B000C5WCN6/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2Q4HDDP429DEO&keywords=denso+02+sensor+upstream&pd_rd_r=4631e148-4f9f-4c44-b01e-ae8388bba695&pd_rd_w=wwXoB&pd_rd_wg=FFNKP&pf_rd_p=db468e0a-f345-403c-baba-a1a898d543d1&pf_rd_r=6TE6891B00ERFDG8EP68&qid=1573752381&s=automotive&sprefix=denso+02+%2Cautomotive%2C203&sr=1-2&vehicle=1999-59-752-806---8-5-5752-1441-1-1---&vehicleName=1999+Honda+Civic

I'm seeing this one for 2004
Denso 234-9005 Oxygen Sensor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C5UFVM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_V5KVDbM13SB0J

Is that the right part? And yeah the sensor is just underneath the front of the car and is a simple ratchet and plug right?

Yes, they are cheap, here’s an example though this may not be exactly right because you didn’t tell us the year.

Dromedary Mass Air Flow Sensor For Ford Lincoln Madza & Mercury MAF 3L3Z12B579BA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0749MCK78/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PZF0AbQS2B1NY


While it could be something else, and I’d like you to scan and tells us the codes, I answered your direct question even though that may not be your problem.

Sometimes disconnecting the negative battery cable for an hour will force the car into relearning mode and may help, temporarily. Tell us what codes you have.