Best accessories & parts according to redditors

We found 1,150 Reddit comments discussing the best accessories & parts. We ranked the 546 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Subcategories:

Tire chucks
Tire valve stems, caps & adapters
Tire pressure monitoring systems
Tire accessories & parts
Wheel accessories & parts
Hubcaps, trim rings & hub accessories
Lug nuts & accessories

Top Reddit comments about Accessories & Parts:

u/Helen____Keller · 42 pointsr/pics

Nice pic. Traction boards and a shovel next time.

u/mirinfashion · 34 pointsr/Wellthatsucks

You can easily bypass that with a breaker bar and a larger size socket than the locking lugnut. For the socket, you just have to find a size that makes an extremely snug fit when you hammer it on.

Also, I'm pretty sure thieves that are stealing entire sets of wheels from cars already bought quicker tools to bypass them, like master lug nut key sets that can be bought from your local auto store or Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/STEELMAN-78537-16-Piece-Locking-Master/dp/B00JF5F420) to remove them.

u/trebde · 15 pointsr/motorcycles

Sure, here goes, but its up to you to figure out what is what:

  1. Pagnol M1 jacket
    This jacket was from the first run of jackets. The quality is great, and has improved since I got mine (my buddy got one from the next production run). Pockets for armor, good for 3 season riding (with some layers) Plus my tablet fits in the back protector pocket.

  2. Stylemartin Boots — They look good and provide good protection. I can wear them all day. Except the laces they come with always give out on the shifter side (at least for me) so that's been replaced with paracord.

  3. Simpson Street Bandit Helmet
    Snell & Dot rated, good airflow and visibility. Installing a sena headset onto this was a breeze. Currently covered in bugs.

  4. Sena 10C
    The camera is pretty shitty but it's better than no camera. I try to use it as a dashcam. The build quality of the device is not the greatest as one of the clips on the device has broken off and I contacted customer support with no response whatsoever. Audio quality is good though. They are releasing a new device, the Sena 10C Evo, that looks like it solves some of the issues with the 10C.

  5. Earplugs
    These are awesome and cheap. They live in the pill container on my keys. So much better than foam earplugs.

  6. Keysmart — Fuck jingly & pointy keys. A usb & multitool also lives on this guy.

  7. Rev'it Dirt 2 Gloves — Good airflow, not much wrist protection. They are gloves but I have an extra long left middle finger or something, cause that finger always gives out first.

  8. Cruz Tool Roll — I actually have the non BMW one, but need to add the torx tools to this. I also carry an extra tool set that isn't pictured. I recommend this toolkit for everyone. It's tiny and extremely robust, but hard to find.

  9. External Battery USB — has a really bright light and can charge my things forever. Did a tour of Sri Lanka and charged this instead of finding outlets and adapters. The light even has a flashing and SOS mode.

  10. Slime air compressor — Haven't really needed it yet but it's there.
u/Zbee- · 14 pointsr/ColoradoSprings

That's incredibly unfortunate, and the police in this town do little to help, too. I was robbed recently and we had fingerprints, high quality video in which the thief looked straight at the camera, and serial numbers and an exact list of what was stolen, and that was 2 months ago with no results.

Since then I've become anal about my car's security, and to protect against this I got locking lug nuts. Dead simple to use, and it secures your wheels; I highly recommend them.

u/gotamd · 13 pointsr/chicago

In case anyone is looking for an air compressor now, I have this one and it works like a champ: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ASY23I?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

u/rao-blackwell-ized · 12 pointsr/Charleston

At home - or anywhere - with one of these.

u/JamesRawles · 11 pointsr/harborfreight

The 150 is the better bet because it's clip on, instead of cigarette lighter. But if you're gonna pay retail prices, might as well just go this route https://www.amazon.com/Viair-00088-88P-Portable-Compressor/dp/B005ASY23I

u/DrKronin · 9 pointsr/Cartalk

I have a tiny little air compressor that just plugs into the cigarette lighter of any car, and while it's a bit noisy, it does a great job. I couldn't find the model I own, but this one would do the job just fine, and it's small enough to pack on road trips.

u/photonoobie · 9 pointsr/XVcrosstrek

I drive the local beaches in my area (east coast US) often have have little problems. My '14 sits on 1" of lift and a set of BFG KO2, which are decidedly not well suited for the sand. The factory tires did just as well, if not better, as they have a much more compliant sidewall than the BFGs.

Most of the time, airing down is not necessary. One beach in particular can be very soft at times, so I usually run about 20psi there. I've found that wet sand can be as hard as pavement sometimes. Other times, it might as well be quicksand. Nonetheless, I rarely have an issue. I do carry a shovel and traction mats, just in case. I have used them a few times, but only because of my own poor decision-making when choosing a path.

Keep an eye on the tides if you'll be driving below the high tide mark just in case you do have a problem. You'll want to leave yourself enough time to get rescued should need be.

The CVT is fine in sand. You'll find that you need to use a bunch more throttle input in order to get moving and stay moving.

Turning off the traction control (as much as the button allows you) seems to help keep the car from killing any semblance of power when the wheels start to spin a little. If you do encounter wheelspin, remember to give the car enough time to sense the spin before letting off the throttle.
The system will kick in, make creaking and other strange noises, and apply less power to the wheel that's spinning, and continue on its' way.

Sometimes, the traction control light, hill assist light, and CVT temp lights will illuminate while driving on sand or other loose surfaces. This is [I think] caused by wheelspin events that last longer than normal, or when the steering wheel input doesn't match the direction of travel for longer than the car is expecting. It doesn't do any permanent damage, but the traction control system is completely disabled when those lights are on, to beware. The fix is usually to restart the car.

A couple of other [maybe not so] obvious items.

Rinse off sand and salt after you get off the beach.

Be mindful of your approach and departure angles. The XV bumpers are all plastic, and the rear specifically has a tendency to be pulled off if it tries to scoop up a bunch of sand.

Your factory tow hook isn't designed to take the stress of offroad recovery. It's designed to pull a car straight onto a flatbed towtruck. If you do need to use it to get unstuck, you'll need to do your best to pull straight forward or back. Any sideways pull has a tendency to bend the hook.

For Reference.

TL;DR Go For It.

u/maddiedog · 9 pointsr/overlanding

Ridgeline! Ignore any haters, I "overlanded" in my Honda Element and love the hell out of the Ridgeline. You'll get a lot of unnecessary hate in a Ridgeline, including from pavement princess Tacomas, Jeeps, etc. Remember, if you're having fun, that's all that counts. Plus, your ride is way more comfortable than theirs to daily drive.

I had General Grabber AT2s on my Element, they were awesome. I have BFG KO2s on my Tacoma now, they're just as awesome. Discount Tire runs good promos, I highly recommend waiting and going with them. Definitely don't go anywhere before tires though, you'll regret it.

If you can, fit 1" larger diameter tires and upgrade from there. I did a spacer lift on my Element and it was enough, just take it easy.

Above all else, don't get caught up in all the gear and hype, go out there with your standard camping gear and enjoy the journey. If it's for you and you like it, upgrade over time to better gear. I went on dozens of trips with my V-Strom or PCX, had a kid, then went on 4 trips with my Element. I had so much fun and sometimes miss that freedom, but it's hard now that kid #2 is here. I've since upgraded from the Element to a Tacoma and bought a ton of crap... But that crap is just that. I could fit everything I needed to "overland" in a backpack on my motorcycles, and that's all you really need.

Get out there, have fun, and let the gear and expenses come if you enjoy it. If you've got a hole burning in your wallet, based on your rig, I'd recommend some basic recovery gear. I have a set of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AV2HONS/ and they'll get you out of most trouble without a winch. Start easy with forest service roads, and go up from there.

u/swoll9yards · 8 pointsr/houston

Shit like that used to happen ALL the time at that place (I was there for a year in 2011), and it just kept escalating. First it was rims and windows, then cars getting stolen, then apartments and people getting robbed. My friends still live there and say it's gotten better since I left after they put up the cameras.

I would highly recommend getting a set of these - Gorilla Guard Wheel Locks. I bought a used vehicle with these on there and no key. 9 different tire shops were unable to get them off until I finally figured out a way without damaging the rim. The keys are extremely unique (no master keys) and the outer ring spins. They are not impossible to get off, but it will definitely take a lot of commotion/noise.

u/xOhoKsDU9Va · 8 pointsr/VEDC

If that's excessive I'd hate to see what you describe mine as...

I have those same Jumper cables, they are really nice!

Do you know how large that Swiss army knife is in person? for a car I would get something like a Leatherman Wave or Leatherman Surge. Or at least a bigger swiss army knife (Although the small tweezers on those are useful)

What about a portable compressor? I have used mine more than ANYTHING else

This is the go-to suggestion: https://www.amazon.com/Viair-00073-Heavy-Portable-Compressor/dp/B0012WHBSO

u/mareksoon · 8 pointsr/Austin

Seriously. Purchase one of these and toss it securely somewhere in your car; never seek air again.

IMO, don't waste money on the rechargeable ones, but DO make sure your engine is running while using it.

Slime 40022 12-Volt Digital Tire Inflator

u/thepensivepoet · 8 pointsr/Guitar

Keep a small DC air compressor, a higher quality jack, a fire extinguisher, and a first aid kit in your car.

u/xdownsetx · 7 pointsr/motorcycles

This is the model I keep under my seat,

http://www.amazon.com/Slime-40001-Motorcycle-Tire-Inflator/dp/B000ET9SB4

But not every bike has much underseat storage.

u/DuhWhat · 7 pointsr/motorcycles

watched someone use the CO2 cartridges. He used 6 of them, to get a minimal amount of pressure from flat, maybe 12 psi. Enough to sketchily get somewhere with a real compressor.

I would recommend something like this:https://www.amazon.com/Slime-40001-Motorcycle-Tire-Inflator/dp/B000ET9SB4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526938310&sr=8-1&keywords=slime+mini+compressor

It will fill the tire up to spec, but it will take a while.

u/chayos00 · 7 pointsr/4x4

Got two of these from Pep Boys for my truck. There's a few mods you can do to them you can find with a quick Google Search to help them out a bit. But for the price you can't beat it compared to a similar performance couple hundred dollar ones. I've had one last me about 6 years and my newer two have been with me about 2 years now.

MasterFlow MF-1050 Air Compressor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000L9AD2U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JXELybECMQSYK

Big brother (never used by me yet)
SuperFlow MV-90 Air Compressor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001RCTV46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_G2ELybJSXB5EY

u/Freejack02 · 7 pointsr/FiestaST

For that range on a stock vehicle, there's a few things I would recommend:

  1. Rear Motor Mount. Not exciting, but it's 100% recommended eventually and will make the car feel better (less wheel hop, no problems down the line with a blown mount). Does require some tools to install (jack, stands, sockets) but is very straightforward. Popular options from Whoosh, Cobb, lots of companies. $90 - $150 or so depending.

  2. Pierce Front Chassis Brace. Great product, will make the car feel more together and reduce wheel hop under hard acceleration. They come in a 2pt, 4pt, and full 6 point versions. I personally have the 2, it's great, but I want to upgrade to a 6 at some point. Also a 2 point version from Whoosh that is cheaper and virtually identical. Requires same tools as the RMM. $100 - $300 depending on type and company.

  3. Hi Flow Air Filter. Simple, cheap, and most people end up getting them anyway. Plug and play, just need a screwdriver. $30 - $70 depending.

  4. Gorilla Lug Nuts. Sounds weird, but stock FiST lugs are atrocious and will fail eventually... save him the headache and get him some newer, better ones. Ones like THIS work great and are cheap. Need a lugwrench and a preferably a tall cliff to chuck the old ones off. $30 - $60 depending.

    There's plenty more you could go with, but it's hard to know how far he's planning to take the car.
u/toomuchtodotoday · 7 pointsr/LifeProTips

If space and money are no object: http://www.amazon.com/VIAIR-85P-Portable-Air-Compressor/dp/B0036E9VB6

No affiliation, just love my air compressor.

u/shamarctic · 7 pointsr/Wrangler

OK dont worry you guys. I've got this. First things first, you're going to need to open up a credit card with a high limit. $30k should do to start.

  • Rubber Floor Mats. I got the Mopar ones. I might suggest Weathertech instead. If you have the unlimited, you can get mats for the back was well. I cannot find any mats for the back of my two door :(
  • Have a dog? Plan on running with the roof off? Want to prevent them from falling out? Safari Straps have your back.
  • Off Roading? I suggest some tire deflators to air down conveniently, and a portable air compressor to air back up.
  • Grab Handles are great. Here's one example, but I recommend shopping around. Theres a lot of different styles, find what you like.
  • Hi Lift Jack & Base. You'll quickly find off road that the stock jack will not get you out of a lot of situations. The base is helpful on soft surfaces (wet dirt, sand, etc).
  • Change your own damn oil! It's easy. No jack required just shimmy under there. Make sure to get an oil catcher big enough for your motor. 6-8 QTS if I recall correctly.
  • Buy a shovel. Invaluable off road
  • Recovery Strap & learn how to use it properly.
  • Mechanics Gloves. Again very helpful around the jeep.

    That should get you off to a good start. Eventually you might think about replacing the bumpers, adding a tire carrier, lifting the jeep, getting bigger wheels, adding a winch, adding a roof rack.
u/gimli5 · 7 pointsr/blogsnark

Gauges are super cheap and having one in your car isn't the worst idea. We also had crazy weather fluctuations last winter and I got sick of paying to fill up my tires every other day so I ended up just buying my own pump as well (I bought this one and have no complaints after 6 months of use).

u/itouchboobs · 7 pointsr/pics

Hate to bust your bubble, but those are just simple tuner lugs. They all have the same key patter, so anyone who wanted to could buy This could get them off in 2mins.

u/olek2012 · 7 pointsr/4x4

https://www.amazon.com/Escaper-Traction-Off-Road-Extraction-20333/dp/B00AV2HONS

MAXSA Escaper Buddies are great, I cannot praise them enough. I’ve used them for two seasons now and they’re still good as new. The key is to be very careful not to spin your tires on them. If you spin tires then you melt the plastic and the little nubs flatten. You want to position them where your tires won’t spin at all. Plus if your tires are spinning, you need to adjust anyways because it means you still don’t have enough traction for forward motion.

These have saved me out of quite a few precarious situations. They have held up very well and just on my last trip we jacked up a YJ and used two of these board stacked on top of each other as a platform in the snow to jack from. They held up great and no signs of cracking or breaking!

u/Shitstory · 7 pointsr/Wilmington

I know it isn't a fix for you right now but I picked up a great air compressor for my car.

EPAuto 12V DC Portable Air Compressor Pump, Digital Tire Inflator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L9WSTEG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5JV0Bb6VM2PD7


Thing has saved my ass half a dozen times already(I am hard on tires).

u/HotelHarambe · 7 pointsr/philadelphia

You can also buy a small air compressor that you can keep in your trunk on Amazon for like 30 bucks. Can really come in handy and you won't have to find a pump.

Something like this: EPAuto 12V DC Portable Air Compressor Pump, Digital Tire Inflator by 100 PSI https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L9WSTEG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ypwQBbW3W0KRV

u/mike689 · 6 pointsr/Birmingham

Get yourself one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/LifeLine-AAA-300-Volt-Compressor/dp/B000SL4AA2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519660203&sr=8-1&keywords=Triple+A+tire+pump

I was so damn tired of having to use quarters to pump my tires. They are damn near invaluable with the roads here in bham and surrounding. I keep mine in the trunk and use it all the time.

u/SierraHotel058 · 6 pointsr/BuyItForLife

This Viair compressor is the one I bought about five years ago. Very well built. It is on sale today on Amazon. I recommend it.

u/brbauer2 · 6 pointsr/FiestaST

Gorilla Automotive 21133BC Small Diameter Acorn Black 5 Lug Kit (12mm x 1.50 Thread Size) - Pack of 20

These are what I've got. Have been used on stock wheels and 3 other sets; been through 4 winters; seasonal tire changes; rotations every other oil change and they have held their finish great and have kept the wheels on the car.

u/Renyu · 6 pointsr/AnnArbor
u/ModMini · 6 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

Gorilla spline socket. If I was a professional wheel thief I'd definitely have one in my toolbox. Amazon sells them too. http://www.amazon.com/POINT-SPLINE-TUNER-LUG-NUT/dp/B006UH66R8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452819298&sr=8-1&keywords=gorilla+spline+socket

u/TinyMetalTube · 6 pointsr/vandwellers
  1. Go someplace where it's not snowy.
  2. Good insulation, ventilation, and a heater.
  3. Sub-zero sleeping bag.
  4. Make sure you check the area around your intake(s) and exhaust(s) for snow accumulation. Blockage is bad.
  5. Have a good squeegee / ice scraper / snow brush. Ideally on a telescoping pole.
  6. Have a good collapsible shovel, for (1) digging yourself out of the snow/mud, (2) clearing large swaths of snow from atop and near the vehicle. Be sure not to scratch the paint.
  7. Have a set of what Bob calls Portable Tow Trucks for when you inevitably get stuck.
  8. Stay with someone / get a hotel / etc.
  9. Put some reflective tape on the rear of the vehicle, and possibly elsewhere, so you can be seen. Many of us have white vehicles, and those blend into the snow quite readily.
  10. Camp somewhere that has cell reception so you can always call for help if you need to.
u/Acheron13 · 6 pointsr/Connecticut

Those wheel locks are almost useless.

https://www.amazon.com/STEELMAN-78537-16-Piece-Locking-Master/dp/B00JF5F420


Or if they really don't give a crap, they'll just bang an oversized socked on it.

u/ayemef · 6 pointsr/raleigh

I posted this a few days ago, and stand by it:

> I gave up on gas station air since some cost money, sometimes have a line and have a tendency to break down. Got myself one of these for $35 https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L9WSTEG and an adapter https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MY55BT5 for another few bucks. Screw waiting in line for gas station air.

It's good to maintain your tires, but I'll be damned if I have to wait on a line to do so.

u/tsaven · 5 pointsr/motocamping

Ah, so you're on a KLR 650, aka "The Tractor". Excellent! It's the best choice for doing long distance adventure touring when you're poor as shit. They're cheap, simple and hilariously tolerant of abuse. MASSIVE aftermarket for parts and accessories, too.

  • Some things are worth over-planning and some things aren't. Route is not something you should plan too much, emergency options and mechanical stuff is. Make sure you've got AAA Premeir (The basic AAA plan doesn't cover motorcycles), and health insurance. The more mechanical skills you have and the better you know your bike, the better.
  • Get to be a regular on ADV Rider, and make use of their Tent Space list to find people to stay with for free. Also an amazing resource for when you crash and break stuff, just about anyone on that forum will bend over backwards to find a truck and drive out into the middle of nowhere to rescue you, bring you back to their garage and then help you fix the bike in exchange for hearing your stories from the road.
  • Yes, food is expensive and $10/day is the minimum you should plan for. Cooking for yourself can help keep costs down, a Whisperlite stove is much better for this as opposed to a Jetboil.
  • For eating cheap, instant pasta packets are a great option. Like these: https://www.target.com/s?searchTerm=pasta+side+dish That's actually a pretty high price for them, if you are good about hitting discount grocery stores like Aldi and always getting the generic or store-brand stuff, you can sometimes find them for as little as $0.70/pack. Add the contents to 2 cups boiling water, simmer for 7 minutes and you're done. They pack super small, they're tasty, calorie dense, really cheap and easy. Also, instant mashed potatoes (in similar sized pouches) are usually findable for under $1/pouch, and instant rice. All of these options are usually a bit light on protein, so supplement them with tuna pouches like these: https://www.target.com/s?searchTerm=tuna+packets and precooked chicken breasts like this: https://i2.wp.com/www.wicproject.com/images/2010/07/tyson_grilledready_bag.jpg?resize=216%2C216 . The instant oatmeal packs are a great option, just plan on eating at least two for each breakfast. Oh, and don't forget the peanut butter. I had plenty of camping nights where dinner was eating peanut butter out of the jar with a spork.
  • Disperse camping in National Forest/BLM land is lovely and a brilliant option. But keep in mind that once you get east of the Rocky Mountains, such areas are MUCH harder to find. That being said, it's still possible to "Stealth Camp" even in the flyover states, but it takes some skill and a good eye. If you google for "Stealth Camping with a motorcycle" you can find a lot of info on some tricks on doing it well.
  • KLRs do burn oil, it's kind of the nature of the beast of a cheaply made low-stress thumper. Many people use Shell Rotella T6 (it's a full synthetic designed for diesel trucks but works great in motorcycle engines), but you'll be fine using whatever cheapskate store-brand dinosaur oil you can find as long as it's close to the right viscosity.
  • While we're talking about oil, remember that you'll need to do a full oil and filter change at least three times on this trip. Long distance cruising on pavement is actually really easy on engines and oil (it's a consistent speed, temperature and load) so you can stretch the usual 3,000 mile requirement to every 5,000 miles. Autozone/AdvancedAuto/O/Reilly auto parts type stores will usually have the filter, and in most states they are legally required to take old oil for free. Google how to do a parking lot oil change (Hint; find a small cardboard box in a trash can somewhere, line it with like three or four layers of plastic bags from the auto parts store, and drain the oil into that).
  • Actually, your KLR does use Tube tires, becuase it's a giant over-sized sorta-dirt bike. Generally, anything with spoked wheels uses tube tires. So that is the proper patch kit, although my personal preference is to carry as small 12v compressor as opposed to the CO2 tubes. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Slime-40001-Motorcycle-Tire-Inflator/dp/B000ET9SB4 (Make sure to have the bike running while using the compressor!)
  • Bring the patch kit, but also carry a spare tube. Get the proper tube for the 21" front wheel, and in an emergency you can actually shove it into the rear wheel as well. It'll work fine for getting you back to civilization where you can buy a proper new tube.
  • Okay this part is important. Patching a tube tire or even just replacing the tube is NOT SIMPLE. You need to remove the wheel from the bike, then remove the tire and tube from the rim. If you plan on doing this on the side of the road, that means you need to have a center stand on the bike, and carry all the tools needed to pull off either wheel, PLUS a set of tire spoons and something to use as lube (mixing up some dish soap in water works great). Oh, then you need to know how to do it all. My suggestion is to spend a weekend practicing it at home before you leave so you know how it's supposed to work, lots of videos on youtube can help you with this. Trying to figure it out by yourself for the first time in the middle of nowhere isn't how you want to learn.
  • Speaking of tires, what tires do you currently have on the bike?
  • As for chain and sprockets . . . eh, maybe. Be rigorous about cleaning and lubing your chain every 500 miles, keep an eye on how worn the teeth are getting but you'll probably be okay.
  • Tool kit. Fortunately because the KLR650 is such a popular bike, many other people have already done the work of figuring out what a good roadside toolkit consists of. Read over this thread for a lot of information: https://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?t=86172 Some carry more, some carry less. If you google for "KLR650 Adventure Toolkit" you'll find a lot of info. Tools and ability to use them are something you should over-plan on.
  • The KLR's alternator can provide PLENTY of power to charge your phone. When people are talking about insufficient power from it, they're talking about running stuff like high-output auxiliary headlights, electrically heated jackets and pants and seats for both rider AND passenger, stereo systems, etc, and all at the same time. Just charging a phone and running some heated grips, you'll be fine.
  • Oh yeah, you should get some heated handgrips. Trust me. I think the effect is more psychological than anything, but when you're cold and wet having warm hands makes a world of difference. Simple under-grip elements (requires you take off your existing grips, then put the heating elements onto the bars, then put your grips back on) are like $30. Fancier new grips with integrated heating elements (such as made by Oxford) are around $100.
  • Jeeze those ammo cans are gigantic. Yeah, I think you'll be fine for waterproofing with those things. But your duffel/rear seat bag needs to be waterproof as well. As I mentioned in another post, Mosko Moto bags are amazing but really expensive.
  • For keeping your neck dry, I recommend rain gear with an integrated hood. You put the hood on UNDER your helmet, and it stops the rain from running down your neck. Something like this is good for your budget: https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/nelson-rigg-sr-6000-stormrider-rain-suit, it's sized to go over your existing gear (Which isn't waterproof. I know, I know. The label that came on your jacket and pants says that it's waterproof. It's not. It's waterproof enough for a light afternoon shower, but if you're riding all day in a thunderstorm it WILL get soaked through. I speak from experience).
    -Also for keeping your head and neck warm, get one of these: https://www.underarmour.com/en-us/mens-coldgear-infrared-hood/pcid1244401?scid=scplp1244401-001&sc_intid=1244401-001&cid=PLA|US|NB|GGL|DES|SiC|ROAS|&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0PuRqLXW1wIVB25-Ch3KlQb2EAYYAiABEgKOovD_BwE

    A word on off-pavement stuff: The KLR 650 is extremely capable of taking you very far off the beaten path if you put knobby tires on it, well away from pavement and civilization and deep into the wilderness. Which is awesome, totally awesome. That's my style of touring, personally. But it comes with a LOT of other risks and considerations. Are you thinking of doing a lot of backcountry riding on this trip?
u/refboy4 · 5 pointsr/LifeProTips

Had a post like this awhile ago with more insight for those who care...

I guess I can repost my own post:

I do this kind of thing as a part time job for CDOT (Colorado Dept of Transportation) when I want extra money to buy something stupid, so I have some good insight as to what gets people stuck.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>An extra belt and a breaker bar big enough to move the tensioner.

I mean, I don't carry an extra belt, but I'm pretty good about checking wear on it every few weeks or so. However, a breaker bar is definitely definite definitely recommended. It's most useful for wheel lugs, but it'll work on a belt tensioner too.

>Spare hose clamp for if you blow a radiator hose off/ intake hose/ turbo hose/ whatever. They cost like nothing (literal cents), but when you need it you need it. You ain't going anywhere with no air intake/ turbo intake/ coolant hose.

>Bottle jack? instead of the stock scissor jack?

No you don't need a full size floor jack.

If you have a regular passenger car (like a 4 door car) the scissor jack will work fine. They are kind of tedious to jack up and down but it's for an emergency, not everyday use. The bottle jack is a good idea for large SUV, Trucks, and RVs. Make sure you have a base or something on it if you have any sort of lift. Also remember that you will have to jack up much further to install the inflated tire than you had to for the flat one.

Only other advice I have here is actually pull that jack out and figure out how to use it. They all gotta be different and some are like oragami in how this click into that, which slides onto that... Reading the user manual and deciphering the IKEA-esque pictures on the side of the road just adds frustration and stress to the already crappy situation.

>Fix-a-flat kit

Meh. A spare tire is the better option. Make sure you check it's inflated at least every couple months. It's very very common that people have a spare, but that its flat. It does you no good as a spare if it's flat. A tire plug kit a definitely a good thing though. If you do HAVE to use the fix a flat, prepare to have a tire shop guy charge you twice when they find it all over the wheel. It's a nightmare to clean off, and as others have said will ruin you TPMS sensor. Depending on the make/model of your car this could be another $35 to $100 you have to spend, in addition to a new tire.

>Lights! and flares

(Ignore the guy in the comments that said lights are only emergency vehicles. He has no idea what he's talking about)

For an emergency kit, flares are better since they don't require batteries (that you will forget to change/ charge). However, lots of road flares last 30 - 60 minutes. It should take you 20 to change a flat. Be careful with the flares as many types drip as they burn. Don't light yourself or the side of the road on fire. I know you're thinking "well duh" but it happens every year in CO where I live. Someone lights the brush on fire near the highway cause they put flares out and got to fixing their car and not paying attention.

That said, you can get LED road flares that are bright and really good at attracting attention. Look up the laws in your area. Some places restrict the color you can use. Amber (orange) is usually a pretty safe color to choose. If you can get on that has more than one color, it's better. Monochromatic light doesn't give people good depth perception. Avoid as much as possible bright white strobes facing rearward. All you're going to do is blind the people you are trying not to get hit by.

> Screwdriver set with misc bits

Like others have said, this won't be super useful for your car, but for various other tasks it can be a huge time/ money/ aggravation saver to just have basic tools for random things. Ever tried to get a hose clamp off with just your fingers? You just have to remember to put those tools back in the kit. You don't need Snap Off for this as they likely won't get used that much. Don't get the cheapest ones at Harbor Freight either. Get the " pittburgh professional" ones.

> Socket set?

You can get the set if you want to, but at a minimum get the socket that fits your lugs. Get the drive size that fits the breaker bar you got from above (likely 1/2"). When I do this for work I had a cordless impact driver which was awesome, but a breaker bar doesn't require you to remember to charge batteries, and I haven't found anyone that just wasn't strong enough to use one. A breaker bar is like $15. Cordless impact driver powerful enough is like $250+.

>Glass Breaker/ Hammer

Honestly, you'd be better off with a spring loaded center punch. You have to have room to swing the hammer, and some people (elderly, children) just don't have the strength to hit the window hard enough. With the center punch, you just touch it to the glass and push until it clicks. Many cops and firefighters use these as a means to get you out. If you go this route, have a seat belt cutter, pocket knife, something...

>Fire Extinguisher

It's better if you mount this somewhere where it wont get buried. My favorite place is honestly the trunk lid or right in front of the taillight area in a car, under one of the seats for a SUV or truck (if you can easily flip it up). Imagine yourself suddenly panicking and thinking holy goddamn s**t my car is on fire, and scrambling to get to your extinguisher. Put it somewhere you can scramble to easy. If it takes longer than 10 seconds, its not accessible enough.

  • Basic first aid kit. useful for everything. Make sure if you use it, restock it.

    > A little portable air compressor

    can really help if you get a flat and have a flat spare. Not necessary but sure is nice. You can use it for other things too (blowing up sports balls air mattresses etc...). They usually take FOREVER to fill a tire, but if you're stuck anyway...

    >Roll of duct tape (because obviously).

    I've used it to tape up bumpers after an accident so they can at least get off the road, to secure wiring, to a whole number of other things.

    >Spare fluids.

    Maybe. Gallon of coolant or distilled water at least. quart of oil, etc... This also depends on where you normally drive. If you never leave the city and a parts store is usually a couple blocks away then you don't have to bother. If you live outside the city and it would take you the entire afternoon to walk the next 15 miles to the store...well, plan accordingly.


    > Tire pressure gauge.

    To check main and spare tires. Don't trust the ones on the gas station pump (they get slammed around and scraped on the ground). I've seen them as inaccurate as 15 - 20 p.s.i. off.

    > Jumper cables.

    Better yet, your own jump pack.. Jumper cables are only useful if someone else is there to rescue you.

    > A tow strap

    is kinda nice, but if you're stuck and there's nobody else around it won't help you (unless you have a winch/ come-along). Nothing wrong with having one handy in case someone comes along though.


    > Tire chains.

    Don't know where you live but in CO there is actually a new (ish) chain law for passenger vehicles. When it's in effect you are supposed to have chains (or alternative traction device) in place. It's not just for truckers anymore. I take them out in the summer.

    > A shaker siphon

    Makes transferring fuel way way way way way less infuriating than dealing with the stupid friggin gas cans you have to buy nowadays. All the silly safeties and valves, it's like playing goddamn BopIt. They also work for coolant and washer fluid too, not that you would be dumping gallons of washer fluid... How to use it I don't carry a fuel container in my truck with me, but FYI it's illegal (in the US at least) to transport fuel in anything other than an approved fuel container. I doubt you'll get in trouble, just something to consider.
u/powerdeamon · 5 pointsr/overlanding

FWIW I have the knock off maxxtraxx and they never have failed me. Technically I've never used them for me but they worked perfectly for the people I helped recover, including a weekender RV out of a soft sand and gravel patch in the high desert.

u/the_woot_shoot · 5 pointsr/Louisville

I bought this off Amazon when it was on sale a few years ago. The convenience of having it with me all the time and not having to worry about finding a gas station with an actual functioning air compressor was worth every penny.

I highly recommend getting one.

u/diemunkiesdie · 5 pointsr/Atlanta

That's the logical solution to the problem but not an answer to OP's question.

I will also contribute a logical solution but not an answer:

OP, I also hate having to let air out when I overfill and hate using a pressure gauge because it means connecting and disconnecting the hose multiple times to check. I own a "portable compressor" and the vast majority of those come with a built in gauge (example: EPAuto 12V DC Portable Air Compressor Pump, Digital Tire Inflator by 100 PSI or the Viair (00077) 77P Portable Compressor Kit)

u/eneka · 4 pointsr/LosAngeles

Perhaps you can get an aftermarket tilt alarm that'll set off when the car is raised.

If you're going to get wheel locks, get gorrillas. https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Automotive-61631-Acorn-Thread/dp/B000CMJ2QE/ref=pd_sim_263_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=51n13YXLpkL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=07V1C8108J2DEG1YH7EW he'll you can buy 5 packs and use them on all the wheels lol.

u/BernoulliMagic · 4 pointsr/motorcycles

Awesome idea! If you love that person that much more, just had to share a step up from this product without having to know tire pressure: http://www.amazon.com/FOBO-Bluetooth-Compatible-Monitoring-Motorcycles/dp/B00WBD00FO

Added this to my wheels and having pressure and a quick temperature readout in the morning before leaving my kitchen is pretty insanely nifty.



Other ideas for OP:

Freezeout Balaclava: http://www.amazon.com/FREEZE-OUT-Balaclava-Black/dp/B0096R08W8/

Microfiber Cloths (great for visor wipes, general cleaning, and wiping condensation off the bike in the morning): http://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Microfiber-Cleaning-36-Pack-Assorted/dp/B000XECJES

Cat Crap (visor antifogger): http://www.amazon.com/EK-Ekcessories-10003P-AM-Anti-Fog-Cleaner/dp/B002BHWZFI/

Lock Laces: http://www.amazon.com/LOCK-LACES-Elastic-Tie-Shoelaces/dp/B00975EAJ6

Motorcycle Tire Inflator (fits under my seat easily): http://www.amazon.com/Slime-40001-Motorcycle-Tire-Inflator/dp/B000ET9SB4/

u/veeb0rg · 4 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

I have one of these, works fine. I use it to air up tires all the time. I have been considering an up grade to a Mf-1050. With coupons when on sale I can get it for about $40 locally, Just need to wait for the sale.
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Flow-MF-1050-MasterFlow-Compressor/dp/B000L9AD2U

u/avu3 · 4 pointsr/bayarea

/u/keylime503 is spot on. Even if it is the law. Even if it is your right, why waste your time and potentially hurt your car just cause that's how its supposed to work.

Pickup an inexpensive gauge like this one
http://smile.amazon.com/Accutire-MS-4021B-Digital-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B00080QHMM
(or this one if you're old-school like me http://smile.amazon.com/TireTek-Flexi-Pro-Pressure-Gauge-Motorcycle/dp/B00XPL88NC/)

and you're good to go. Keep it in your trunk or glovebox.

for the completely gas station free experience, pickup your own compressor.
$20 http://smile.amazon.com/LifeLine-AAA-300-Volt-Compressor/dp/B000SL4AA2/

$45 if you're into overkill like me http://smile.amazon.com/Viair-00073-Heavy-Portable-Compressor/dp/B0012WHBSO

And you're done.

I've got a $10 compressor in the trunk of my wife's car just so I never have to worry about it when we take hers on road trips... but I wouldn't recommend something this cheap for most of you (for me its 3rd behind a 5gallon craftsman shop compressor and one of the $50 ones above)

http://smile.amazon.com/ABLEGRID®-Portable-Compressor-Inflator-Adaptors/dp/B015YZJ7KY/

u/cheerwinechicken · 4 pointsr/Charlotte

They take up almost no space at all. It's just a tiny motor that you plug into your car's charging port and it inflates your tires.

This one is really similar to the ones we got. Dimensions are 12" x 10" x 8". I just keep it in my trunk.
Amazon link

u/jes2 · 4 pointsr/volt

your post was caught in the spam filter. I approved it, but for future reference, submitting links without the tags might help. for example:

u/speedofgravity · 4 pointsr/abarth

I will never change my oil by draining the pan again.

u/paulwesterberg · 4 pointsr/teslamotors

I got this air compressor from amazon, it can be powered from your cigarette lighter and is light and fast. Much better than the Tesla air compressor and just as portable.

u/JLee50 · 4 pointsr/overlanding

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ASY23I

That's really cheap right now ($45).

u/macreadyrj · 4 pointsr/WRX

It can read the sensor IDs from the summer set, then input the IDs from the winter set (assuming you know them). I got my IDs from tire rack when I got a new set. There is also a tool available on amazon that can read TPMS IDs, more expensive.
It plugs into the car's OBD port to get the info and reset the IDs, and you need a windows PC/laptop to run the software. It was a little bit of a pain to get right the first time but I have it figured out now. Also, a laptop is nice so I don't have to run back and forth to the PC while trying to get these things working.

My local garage quoted me $100 to swap winter/summer and reset TPMS for one car. We have two cars, so that would be $400/year. My floor jack and TPMS sensor paid for themselves in one year.


ATEQ reset tool: https://www.amazon.com/ATEQ-QuickSet-TPMS-Reset-Tool/dp/B008SCWXN4

If you don't know your sensor IDs you can use this to read them, but it's another expense. You could also go to a tire place.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AERMVYC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/ph00l1sh · 4 pointsr/WRX

Can you link to this tool please? I am interested in getting it too!

Edit: will this one work? https://www.amazon.com/ATEQ-QuickSet-TPMS-Reset-Tool/dp/B008SCWXN4

u/IngarethaSybiil · 4 pointsr/WrestlemaniaPlans

Keep a good tire inflation kit with you! I recommend a small tire inflator for slow leaks, pressure imbalance, or flats; and a reliable tire pressure gauge to verify all 4 tires have even pressure.

u/Sunius · 4 pointsr/Whatcouldgowrong

Get this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L9WSTEG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_9yxDlykyVatVd

You plug it in, set the air pressure, hit start and walk away. That’s how I got rid of that fear...

u/edman007 · 4 pointsr/volt

This, you need to rotate the tires or switch tpms.

u/ztherion · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

I have this battery which is awesome but discontinued.

I also have this air pump.

u/pj2d2 · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

I keep one of the mine slime compressor too. I should probably check and make sure it still works.

u/cigr · 3 pointsr/Cartalk

These might work for you. They basically have threads which cut into the outside of the nut to remove it.

If they don't work, you can always drill out the stud. It sucks, and takes forever, but it works without damaging your wheel.

u/isellusedcars · 3 pointsr/askcarsales

You give him $0, and tell him about Performance Tool M980 Emergency Lug Nut Removal Set

u/Chief_tyu · 3 pointsr/LifeProTips

Better LPT: Go to any auto parts store or big box store that sells them (or Amazon) and order a 12V air compressor. These cost about $15 and are powered by your car's cigarette lighter / 12V power outlet. You don't have to drive anywhere to fill up your tires, you don't have to put quarters in a machine, and they can be used to fill up other inflatables. Here is a good example

u/fucky_fucky · 3 pointsr/Yosemite

I bought two sets of these for a trip last year. Might be cheaper than renting them. Used them twice; they're surprisingly well made and definitely got the job done.

u/Hellvis · 3 pointsr/VacationColorado

You'll need to have them on your vehicle if they enact the winter traction law. When the roads are dry, no problem, but if it gets bad having a set of chains makes a big difference.

https://www.amazon.com/Security-Chain-Company-SC1032-Traction/dp/B000VAKXVA/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1481570111&sr=1-2&keywords=tire+chains

Get a set sized to your tires and keep them handy. There are stations along the side of 70 to stop and chain up if necessary.

They're not stopping people to check, but if you're involved in an accident you'll get an extra ticket if you're not compliant.

u/avoutthere · 3 pointsr/VEDC

Great post. If I were you, I would add to the box a power inverter (like this one) and a 12v air compressor (like this one).

u/reddituser6912 · 3 pointsr/VEDC

This is what you are looking for

https://www.amazon.com/Viair-00073-Heavy-Portable-Compressor/dp/B0012WHBSO/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1492394608&sr=8-8&keywords=viair+compressor

Its FANTASTIC. Its very quite, super quick but does require 20A on the 12V outlet, my Escape can do it no problem so I assume your F150 can

u/koko949 · 3 pointsr/TeslaModel3

i bought one of these and keep it in my trunk compartment. very handy. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012WHBSO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Rand01TJ · 3 pointsr/cars

one word:
Topsider

u/ProfessorMystery · 3 pointsr/MINI

I've had my S for about eight months or so now, and obviously this early in the lifespan of the car I don't have a lot of long-term information on cost of ownership, but I'll offer what I can:

The oil changes are more expensive than a standard car. They're about on par with a luxury or performance car. For instance, my parents own a Merc and after comparing notes with my Dad, it's pretty similar. The plus side is that your new car will come with four free oil changes from the dealership, so that helps for a while. Also, the standard Cooper is pretty easy to change the oil on if you have a decent oil pump like a Topsider. (The S's engine is a bit more cramped and harder to do) You don't even have to get under the car to do it! You can practice at the halfway interval between dealer-supplied changes at first and then just transition over to doing all of them when those run out.

The non-S is also cheaper on tires than the S. At ~15k miles my front tires were getting some noticeable wear on them. I rotated them so I imagine I'll probably need to change the tires somewhere around 30-40k miles depending on how I drive. The S comes standard with run-flats since there's no place in the car for a donut. The standard Cooper has a spare bolted to the bottom rear of the car so you can more safely run standard (cheaper) tires without worrying about being stranded after a blowout. The non-S will also be a little easier on tires since it has less power.

You'll be able to save money with the standard Cooper instead of the S for sure. Of course, by getting the non-S you're going to be missing a LOT of power. My advice would be to NOT test drive an S if you're not set on getting one. Just...don't let yourself know what you're missing.

u/rustysurfsa · 3 pointsr/mazda

I use these. I've had them for 4 years and besides being dirty they still look the same. I take my tires off all the time too but no issues.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O0AMZS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DeYgzb5CS2Q2X

u/brandonham · 3 pointsr/chicago

I'm in Chicago too. I use this cigarette lighter inflator. You set the desired psi digitally and it shuts of when it gets there. It is accurate and much quite than my last unit. I also have a digital gauge with bleed off that comes in handy.

u/raceman95 · 3 pointsr/ft86

Catback with diffuser - 450

Flossy knob - 120

Smoked side markers - 30 (Markers: 25+5 for amber bulbs)

Swede dash wrap - 70

--------------------------------------------

Total: $670

other junk:
$24 - mini repair kit and some metric wrench sockets.
$10 - digital tire gauge.
$30 - tire pump that runs on the cigarette lighter and fits under the mat with the spare tire.
$30 - a jug of Subie Super Coolant.
$17 - a phone mount (don't recommend it)

Stuff I dont care to price out:

  • Extra phone cables
  • Pack of microfiber towels.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------

    On the list to come:

  • Smoked Valentis with red light bar
  • Matching smoked Valenti 4th light
  • Rays Gramlights 57Xtremes 17x9 in black
  • 245/40/17 AS3 or similar tires for the new wheels


u/Chuck_a_Duck_in_Muck · 3 pointsr/memphis

Not if you get a decent one. This will air up a typical car tire from flat in less than the 3 minutes and is invaluable. I have one in every vehicle and has saved my ass multiple times. VIAIR 85P Portable Air Compressor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036E9VB6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Um1SBbBQEY31F

u/idontplaygamesiwinem · 3 pointsr/Cartalk

Viair 00088 88P Portable Air Compressor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005ASY23I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1jUCCbZZ8HCA5

This is the one that I have. Works on tires up to 33". Requires you to connnect to the battery terminals while the car is running. It works really well and have used it 10-15 times on my own and other peoples cars without issue. It has a built in psi meter but you have yo switch the unit off to get an accurate reading. Also very quiet compared to pancake style compressors.

u/OnTheClock_Slackin · 3 pointsr/GrandCherokee

Here is what I use. I take my 08 WK Hemi on the beach, air down from 33 psi to about 13-15 psi. It takes about 2 minutes per tire to get back up to 33 psi when I leave.

Hose & cord is plenty long, however I bought a 6 foot hose extension just in case.

It gets hot, I bought a nice canvas bag to keep it in, I've had no issues with the heat besides accidentally touching it and getting a little burn.

Compressor - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ASY23I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Extension Hose - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ELJD0BW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bag - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BFNJEI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/mlum69 · 3 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

those are aftermarket lug nuts. you need a tuner lug nut key to take those off. the key looks like this:
https://www.amazon.com/POINT-SPLINE-TUNER-Mr-Lugnut/dp/B006UH66R8

there are different styles, sizes etc.

u/graywolfman · 3 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

Most Subarus so not auto learn, my '11 STi does not. I'm actually ok with that, as some of the examples of taking control of ECUs have been done through auto learning TPMS since it's basically Bluetooth... Call me paranoid, haha. You can get a summer/winter tool that you just program the code for each set into via a PC and USB cable, plug into the OBDII port and press the season button to push the sensor codes. Tire places can give you the codes on the first read; they may be required to if you ask, I can't remember for sure.

Tool Here

u/dericn · 3 pointsr/subaru

>Has anybody gotten the tirerack winter deal with the steelies + tires + TPMS? Are these programmable or do they need to be updated at a shop every time the wheels are swapped?

I bought my winter setup from TireRack with the sensors installed. When I realized that I would need to get them reprogrammed each swap, I learned that the light on the dash isn't as annoying as I thought it would be ;)

THIS has been on my Amazon wishlist for a few years now, but I don't dislike the TPMS light enough to shell out $150 plus the one time dealer reprogramming fee.

My recommendation? Skip the sensors, and just check your tire pressure regularly, like we did before TPMS was invented. That's what I do.

u/stubbornmoose · 3 pointsr/overlanding

Used my maxsa to pull myself 60 yds out of rim deep mud. Awesome kit
MAXSA Escaper Buddy Traction Mat (Set of 2) for Off-Road Mud, Sand, & Snow Vehicle Extraction Orange 20333 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AV2HONS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0OlTzbV0RKMNP

u/BentBomber · 3 pointsr/overlanding

I guess they're actually $120 a pair, but free shipping with Prime. Maxsa is the brand. I've had mine for almost a year and have used them a few times with good results. Totally worth the $120.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AV2HONS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01

u/Clapcheeks69 · 3 pointsr/kansascity

You pretty much have your question answered but I wanted to show some winter car accessories that I use and they have made life easier.

When my car is parked overnight I use a cover like this and it keeps ice and frost off your windshield. There are various types and sizes of these. Mine had side mirror pockets to hold it on and covers the wipers too. Putting in on and taking it off is much easier/quicker than defrosting and scraping.

Very cold temps can result in a dead battery, or one too weak to start the car. This happened to me yesterday and I used one of these to jump start it. I have jumper cables too, but with this I didn't need anyone's help.

When I got home, I trickle charged my battery with this. I just parked in my driveway and ran the charger's 25 foot cord under the garage door and clamped them onto the terminals under the hood. Started nicely today.

I also keep an air compressor in my car all the time. If I'm out on the road and my tire pressure sensors start beeping I can pull over anywhere and top them off.

u/Sancho_Panzy · 3 pointsr/Sup

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L9WSTEG/ref=psdc_155346011_t1_B0719925K5
Ok now I'm looking at this one. It has a digital read out I can set and is a lot cheaper. I'm gonna do some more research then make a post when I finally decide and test it out.

u/edman007-work · 3 pointsr/explainlikeimfive

On my car, after rotating tires you get a TPMS tool, go into the cars menu, push TPMS reset, and then the signal light on one corner of the car lights up, you touch the TPMS tool to the tire and the horn honks. You repeat for each tire (with the signal lighting on that corner). The tool causes the TPMS system to say "hey, it's me, this tire", and the car listens for that when it's in reset mode and programs the tire to that spot.

u/britneesme · 3 pointsr/cars
u/Suprchikin · 2 pointsr/cars

Unless you live in (insert your preferred ghetto) you should be fine and they're usually $25 or less on Amazon

u/Zach_Attack · 2 pointsr/Detroit

I've heard good things about wheel locks of this variety with a sleeve to prevent sockets from being hammered on: http://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Automotive-61631-Acorn-Thread/dp/B000CMJ2QE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418833785&sr=8-1&keywords=wheel+locks

Often the bigger issue is that the thieves will just buy the sockets that fit the lock.

u/57501015203025375030 · 2 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

Wheels?

here's a $15 solution...

u/burntcookie90 · 2 pointsr/Lexus

went with 2 sets of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CMJ2QE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hoping thieves see 8 of these and move on.

u/clownrock95 · 2 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-M980-Emergency-Removal/dp/B000FTN3KK

Has noone heard of these (or are they so shit no one uses them)

u/boon4376 · 2 pointsr/4x4

Make sure you bring something to re-inflate them too! Investing in a decent direct-to-battery pump is a great idea for this trip and anytime in the future. Those cigarette lighter pumps are really not designed to re-inflate multiple larger volume tires (these are great https://amzn.to/2ZMPuQD - used one for years to re-inflate after off-roading)... And a shovel too.

Deflating even stock 32" tires (in my Wrangler JKU, to around 20 PSI) significantly increased traction - I could go anywhere. When you air back up, the lack of traction is astounding. Just keep your speed down when you air down that low.

u/Zen_Drifter · 2 pointsr/cars

For a slow leak, if you have an auto parts store nearby that's open go buy a cheap 12v compressor that runs off the cigarette lighter. That way you can pump the tire up whenever the light randomly comes on.

You can also get a tire plug kit and take the tire off, locate the leak, and plug it if it's not too close to the sidewall. You can find youtube videos showing you how to use it.

u/redoctoberz · 2 pointsr/Tempe

Rule of thumb in Tempe, if its not bolted down, its ripe for the picking.

Get a tire pump for your trunk, they are pretty cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/Lifeline-AAA-300-Volt-Compressor/dp/B000SL4AA2/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1549423150&sr=8-15&keywords=tire+pump

u/SupremeBLT · 2 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

This is an inexpensive one on amazon. Still good in a pinch.

u/PhromDaPharcyde · 2 pointsr/DIY

These are in a crate in the trunk:

u/SIGNUM1 · 2 pointsr/subaru

Hi there, I live in LA area as well and make a lot of trips to the mountains (bear/mammoth) during winter season and I have some recommendations. I just wanted to get this out of the way first: AWD is great but tires are the number 1 factor. AWD won't save you when your tires just flat out can't grip. I just went up to mammoth for MLK and bear the weekend after (both times were either dumping or just got dumped on) and with decent all season tires had absolutely no problem without chains. I'm talking ice, 4-5 inches of powder, etc. etc. just make sure to drive smart.

Now, IMO even if your tires and car are enough to meet the challenge it’s a good idea to have a set of chains handy (also you can get ticketed for not having them). I’d recommend something like these:
chains
Reason being they are easier to put on than something like these: glacier chains
Also, I’ve had tow guys tell me about how brake lines sometimes getting severed from the cable overhang.
I’d also get some tensioners to keep everything tight: tensioner

Good luck and hope you get this!

EDIT: Those links are not specific to your car/tire. I just wanted to give you an overview. The links on amazon will have sizing charts so just find one that fits your specific tire size.

> I am considering buying four sets of snow chains or cables

Assuming you meant 2 sets with a total of 4 chains (they come in pairs) I think that would be overkill. I'd check your manual but I'm pretty sure you only want to put chains on the front tires.

u/maveric101 · 2 pointsr/cars

Yup. I got a 70P for my dad and it's been awesome. I wanted to go with a name brand over one of the litany of random Chinese compressors, and it's hardly any more expensive.

https://www.amazon.com/Viair-00073-Heavy-Portable-Compressor/dp/B0012WHBSO/

u/notavalidsource · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Comparing these air compressors, would either be bad to use?

Metro Vacuum electric duster

Viair portable compressor

u/hkscfreak · 2 pointsr/cars

Instead of using the built in pump, why don't you use an air compressor built for cars and then inflate it through whatever port is available:

http://www.amazon.com/Viair-00073-Heavy-Portable-Compressor/dp/B0012WHBSO/

u/gordo1223 · 2 pointsr/sousvide

What are your thoughts as to how he actuates the sealer?

I've thought about building a diy chamber vac, and would rather just put one of these inside the chamber with this traversing the wall to the outside world. Costs less money and this way you don't need to hook up a separate gauge.

u/Dlanoz · 2 pointsr/BmwTech

Another option that I used to do is to use a topsider. Then you don't need to get under the car and deal with the drain plug. This was the solution for me as I didn't have a way to lift my car.

Air Power America 5060TS Topsider Multi-Purpose Fluid Removing System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001445IZ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9dNwCbH59VMW3

u/lemoncoke · 2 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

Sure, I have this one. I like the fact that it's all metal because these things produce a lot of vacuum. You just take the dipstick out and feed the plastic tube down the dipstick tube. It goes all the way into the bottom of the oil pan/sump and gets pretty much every drop of oil out. Just a piece of advice - it goes a lot quicker when the oil is warm so it's less viscous. Also, if your dipstick tube is wide enough, you can use a larger diameter plastic tube to speed it up a lot more.

u/Kylesfishin · 2 pointsr/GolfGTI

Look into something like this. Lots of different brands/types. So easy and no reason to crawl under the car since the oil filter is on top.

https://www.amazon.com/America-5060TS-Topsider-Multi-Purpose-Removing/dp/B001445IZ8

u/raynez24 · 2 pointsr/Miata

Couldn't get them mounted today (they have Dz102 with a 205/50/15 on them as of today)

Stock Lug nuts wouldn't fit with them on so i bought some of these to see if I can get them mounted Thursday!

http://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Automotive-21133BC-Diameter-Thread/dp/B001O0AMZS?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00

u/utility_truck · 2 pointsr/FocusST

Gorilla Automotive 21133BC Small Diameter Acorn Black 5 Lug Kit (12mm x 1.50 Thread Size) - Pack of 20 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O0AMZS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1GMQDbJW3H393

fiesta lugnuts size : 12x1.5

u/Praedonis · 2 pointsr/FiestaST

Total, after installation, including tires/wheels/install fees/tax/etc, everything came out to just over $1,100, but could be $30 cheaper because I got new Gorilla lug nuts (fuck the stock, tin covered ones).

u/atetuna · 2 pointsr/funny

Car tire pumps are cheap enough that they probably don't care, probably because most people that buy them don't care enough to read the directions, typical tire pressures and sizes aren't that difficult to handle, and they'd just buy something else if it broke. Anyhow, here's the first cheapie I found on Amazon. It doesn't list a duty cycle, but the directions do say it can overheat and needs to cool down for 25 minutes if that happens. The specs and directions don't say what the maximum psi is, but a reviewer said it's 150 PSI. That pump would get so hot if it was working over 100 PSI.

To get a 100$ duty cycle at high pressure, you have to spend a lot of money on a compressor like this one.

An alternative at roughly the same price bracket is a liquid CO2 inflation system like this. Fwiw, this is the way I want to go. I may start putting together my system when I pick up a welder in about month, especially if I get a tig welder.

u/Nakotadinzeo · 2 pointsr/funny

Alright... but who set the precedent?

I remember two distinct eras:

  1. This era was one where I could walk outside with a Game Boy in one pocket, a link cable in the other and find another kid to battle or trade with by riding my bike around the neighborhood. People weren't afraid of kids, or what might happen if they stopped to help a kid in distress (in this case, I'm referencing a memory where my bike chain fell off in the pitch darkness and an older man stopped and helped me find it). I could walk to school, and nobody would think anything of it.
  2. This era came after 9/11, when people were saying "it could happen again anywhere!!!!". Suddenly the school wouldn't allow me to walk to school anymore, I had to ride a bus half a block. News media started scaring parents with stories of pedophiles, since it kept their ratings up. This meant that adults became less likely to help a kid out, and that parents wouldn't let their kids play outside, because of the sudden "pandemic of pedophiles" that didn't actually exist. This meant that kids (which are now becoming adults) were kinda forced to find other ways of entertaining ourselves.

    What generation was the parents at that time? What generation worked itself into a self-sustaining frenzy? It couldn't have been the millennials, we were kids at the time and only doing as we were told.

    By luck, I am a country boy. I keep a socket set in my truck, and a bootable ISO in my phone. I've dived into my engine compartment and fixed my own shit many times, an alternator or a water pump isn't that hard to replace and a tire is just a couple bolts. You haven't changed a tire, until you change a boat trailer tire with the wet boat still on it in the rain with a Toyota Camry's weak little jack (because the pickup's is missing of course) on the side of the interstate with waist-high grass.

    You like your cell phone? Do you know how to restore it in iTunes? Is it an android? do you know how to get into safe mode? what about do a factory restore if your phone won't boot? Are your contacts being synced to google right now? are your pictures backed up to Google Photos? How much data would you lose if it fell in the toilet right now?

    Let me guess.. not only do you not know that, but you also don't know the last time you checked your tire pressure. TPM sensors have batteries that die, and you could have low pressure. Your not gonna wait for the dealership or jiffy lube to check are you? If you have green caps, that's not a bad idea because you have nitrogen in your tires but if you have black caps, Get one of these things that are sold at a bunch of places and make sure your tire pressure is at what it says they should be at on your driver door. Or are you just gonna waste gas and wait till you have a blowout.

    Sorry if I'm rambling a bit, but i see the same shit in your generation. "oh, the factory warranty is about to expire. Better trade it in on a new one! My 2004 ford truck needs a small rubber hose that every auto parts store sells for $10, better take it to ford and pay $250! Your a web designer, not a mechanic Nakota. Quit fixing your own car and take it to a mechanic, and not that ASE certified one that you know will trade mechanic work for computer repair work, the one that I know who is expensive."
u/Gin_Intoxic · 2 pointsr/Frugal

Well, not all air pumps provide that free service. And every air pump around me costs more than 50 cents.

It's funny that I see this post today, because just this morning I woke up to a flat tire on my truck sitting in my driveway. Completely flat. An air pump at a gas station that's far away and costs money was simply not an option for me. But since I had this in my truck, I was able to pump up my tire - for free - and make it to work on time.

I've had an air compressor in my truck for around six months now, and it's been a great investment. It's paid for itself more than once.

TL;DR - Don't knock buying an air compressor. It's a good purchase. If you think it's a waste, just don't fucking buy one.

u/Soggy_Pud · 2 pointsr/ATV

The one I already have doesn't go with me because its much too large to fit in the bag. But you know, if I'm buying stuff to fill the bag I think i'll go with this. Back when I was doing air ride on vehicles viair was the way to go. Maybe I'll hard mount one of my old compressors if this doesn't work. I just always assumed a big ol 440 was too much for an atv charge system.

u/jtbis · 2 pointsr/subaru

I also keep one of these in the car. If it’s just a puncture I can plug it, fill it back up and go.

u/Choup17 · 2 pointsr/Silverado

Viair 88P! I have owned mine for a couple years now, very nice to carry under the rear seat! Everything included reaches from the battery post (passenger side) to the driver side rear tire(farthest stretch). No need to buy any other accessories!

https://www.amazon.com/Viair-00088-88P-Portable-Compressor/dp/B005ASY23I/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=viar+88p&qid=1570188974&sr=8-3

u/taratarabobara · 2 pointsr/cars

Get an air pressure gauge and a small compressor. If you buy the really cheap and crappy ones they'll break as soon as you look at them - I really like this model:

https://www.amazon.com/Viair-00088-88P-Portable-Compressor/dp/B005ASY23I/ref=asc_df_B005ASY23I/

Would buy again. A phone holder is good, extra charging cables (never enough), carry some rope, a tarp, some paper towels, maybe a couple bottles of water for cleaning up. Usually there's room down near where the spare tire is for some of this.

u/paniconenvy · 2 pointsr/Jeep

Definitely get one. I think mine was like $60 on Amazon and it works great. My dad uses his more than I do, paid less for it, and it seems to be faster than mine. Link below is what he has. Don't be fooled by the duty cycle, I've seen him inflate all 4 of his 33" tires from 12 to 30 psi without stopping, then pass his compressor to someone else to do the same. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005ASY23I/

u/Circle_in_a_Spiral · 2 pointsr/camping
u/thorium007 · 2 pointsr/todayilearned

I picked up something like this and carry it with me everywhere. I've only used it for myself once after running over a box of screws in the middle of nowhere, but I've helped out quite a few people with it.

u/funnyhappytime · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ASY23I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's the best one overall if you check the specs out. I love my HPDE's so a pump is necessary, this thing pumps QUICK.

u/lomlslomls · 2 pointsr/VEDC

I've owned and used this compressor over the past five years and it's been great. Viair 00088 88P Portable Air Compressor. It does connect directly to the battery but that prevents blowing fuses when trying to use the 12v outlet in most cars.

On battery jumpers I've tried a few but found the GOOLOO 800A Peak 18000mAh SuperSafe Car Jump Starter works very well. I've owned three of them. The first time I had to use it was after it had been sitting in my trunk for six months without a recharge and it worked like a champ. I gave that one to my brother in-law as it was his battery that was dead and we were parting ways after a road trip vacation. I bought a replacement and have used it probably a dozen times, often when I see someone with their hood up in a parking lot and offer them a jump start - works every time.

u/Brycetherunner · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

It looks like it is a splined locked lug nut. If you get a wrench/socket like this, you should be good to go. Just be sure to get the correct size, or get a multi pack.

u/memphisraines · 2 pointsr/Miata

Those kind of look like spline drive lugs. If you get something like this, that should work I think.

u/4456BSD · 2 pointsr/SubaruForester

yeah, that looks like a huge pain and really disappointing

tempted to buy the tool necessary to clone/program them myself and then sell it used

I'm assuming I would just need one of these? https://www.amazon.ca/ATEQ-ATEQ_Quickset-QuickSet-TPMS-Reset/dp/B008SCWXN4

u/wtfCake · 2 pointsr/ft86

Personally I picked up one of these. A bit on the heavy side, but I mean it immediately pays off. Literally plug it in, hit summer/winter button, and you're done.

u/IJUSTWANTTOUPBOAT · 2 pointsr/Trucks

As others have said it's your money; do as you wish.

All that said; how bad were you really stuck?

You can get recovery boards to leave in your toolbox

http://www.amazon.com/Innovations-20333-Escaper-Orange-Traction/dp/B00AV2HONS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1410038008&sr=8-2&keywords=maxx+traxx

You can get winches and pull anchors for use when you don't have a tree to strap to and mount them on a receiver plat form so you can remove it when you need to;

http://www.amazon.com/WARN-86245-VR8000-000-Winch/dp/B004UJ3IAQ/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1410038095&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=Warn+winch

http://www.amazon.com/PULL-PAL-WINCH-ANCHOR-11000-Heavy-Duty/dp/B004WFX8HQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1410038122&sr=1-1&keywords=Pull+pal

You can run an all terrain tire and you will get further than highway tread even on a 2wd truck- and your truck needs tires anyway why not go all terrain if you can find one that has decent road manners (I run firestone destination A/Ts and they have been just fine).

See the thing is- that entire list is all stuff that people hang off of 4x4s anyway!

So, buy recovery boards, buy a winch on a hitch mount, buy A/Ts and leave your stockers out in the garage. See if your truck still gets stuck. Still getting stuck? Upgrade to a 4x4. Sell your truck with the stockers on it, throw the A/Ts and recovery boards and winch on your new 4x4.

If you read off road magazines, most of them will tell you not to go off road by yourself in the first place. None of them will tell you to take a 2x4 off road, but none are going to tell you that a 4x4 simply will not get stuck.

u/pointblankjustice · 2 pointsr/Portland

Definitely depends on a number of things, the biggest ones being the capabilities of your vehicle and the types of roads you expect to be traveling on.

AWD and 4WD are not invincible. Good traction tires (they do NOT need to be studded, studless snow tires are actually generally better than studded tires in most conditions) should be your first investment, because they make it markedly less likely that you'll need to be recovered in the first place.

Assuming you are just driving around on mostly paved roads or well-kept Forest Service roads, I'd be prepared with jumper cables, a spare tire with jack/tire iron/wheel chock (and some blocks of wood to shim in case you need extra height on your jack), tow straps, a come-along, possibly chains, a snow shovel (and snow gloves) and possibly traction mats of some sort (like these). Know where your tow points are on your vehicle, because if you get stuck and can't dig yourself out or use traction mats or your come-along to get yourself out, you will need someone to pull you out. If you have a vehicle where you can store gas externally (roof basket, pickup bed, etc) consider getting a 5-gal jerry can for spare fuel. Otherwise, I strongly advise never venturing into the backcountry without at least half a tank.

If you get deeper into wanting to overland/offroad, you'd want to look at improving your ground clearance and investing in a good winch. Ground clearance will definitely help with not getting stuck in the first place, and a winch will greatly improve your ability to self-recover. However, being new to this, I'd strongly encourage you to do this in a group with at least one other vehicle.

I could write a novel on what sort of survival gear to have with you. But figure at a bare minimum you'd want:

  • Blankets/sleeping bags

  • At least a gallon of water per person, augment with a water filter

  • Spare food/snacks

  • Firestarting equipment

  • Layered cold and wet weather gear

  • First aid/medical gear matched to your level of training

  • A good, bright headlamp or flashlight like those from reputable brands like Nitecore, Fenix, FourSevens, OLight, Black Diamond, Petzl, etc along with spare batteries

  • Hand saw and potentially an axe for clearing brush that might fall across a road and block your travel

  • If there are multiple vehicles in your group, consider adding a cheap CB radio to each vehicle or handheld UHF radios like cheap Baofengs or something

  • A PLB (personal locator beacon for life-threatening emergencies) or other satellite communicator (DeLorme InReach being the best, also the SPOT line of products). A true PLB like those from ACR are about $250 on Amazon and are only to be used in situations of grave danger, whereas a two-way communicator like the InReach can be useful if you get stuck somewhere without cell coverage and need recovery/support but you aren't actively dying.

u/wpskier · 2 pointsr/VEDC
u/lordofthefeed · 2 pointsr/Westfalia

I'm a fan of these wine glasses (which come in red, white, and champagne!).

We also just got a set of rescue ramps (they might've been these), which we haven't tried out yet but are looking forward to!

Happy trails to you and your wife!

u/SmokeOneBro · 2 pointsr/4x4

10,000lb recovery strap w/ tow hooks and hardware along with these:

www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AV2HONS/ref=pd_aw_sbs_1?pi=SS115&simLd=1&dpPl=1&dpID=41r0N2OOheL
Edit: you may want a higher rating than 10,000 depending on your use!

u/theinternn · 2 pointsr/funny

My point was more along these lines

u/BrunhildeClaire · 2 pointsr/mechanics

OMG those Michigan potholes on 94 when you enter Michigan from the Indiana border are an absolute nightmare. Better get yourself a good portable tire inflator to keep in the trunk ;)

u/abdiel92 · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

That one looks okay. But if you really want the best quality for the price go with one of the inflators by jaco products. I personally use the SmartPro 2.0 but the SmartPro 1.0 is basically the same thing but runs only on DC power, rather than AC and DC power. I like these ones because they have the auto shut off feature and are super accurate.

Also because it comes from a great company, Jaco is well known for their tire pressure gauges.

u/andy2na · 2 pointsr/teslamotors

I bought the JACO one, which seems to be using a generic design from others but they all have good reviews (A on fakespot), digital, and auto stop:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015VXWZ9O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/CrayAB · 2 pointsr/genesiscoupe

Gotcha. Well hope it gets revolved soon! Car looks great man.

https://www.amazon.com/EPAuto-Portable-Compressor-Digital-Inflator/dp/B01L9WSTEG

I bought one of these bad boys a few years back.. got me out a few jams like yours where I had a small leak causing a flat. Keep it in my car in my "emergency" kit!

u/mcbaxx · 2 pointsr/FireflyFestival

Intex Classic Downy Airbed Set with 2 Pillows and Double Quick Hand Pump, Queen

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HBIL9O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cUX7CbGKGB85V

EPAuto 12V DC Portable Air Compressor Pump, Digital Tire Inflator

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L9WSTEG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hVX7CbG371WN6

The compressor will make inflation fast and easy. Also good to keep one in your car for flats.

u/Angel-Of-Death · 2 pointsr/cars

Hey OP. I just purchased this one and quite frankly it's fantastic. It's also pretty quiet compared to everything else that's out there.

u/fizzymynizzy · 2 pointsr/hondafit

I live in New York City. Remember last November 2018 when de Blasio didn't salt the road and there was a lot of car crash?. Well that very same day I got in to TWO accidents. I slam on the brakes and the car just keep on going. Damage to the bumper. Honda sensing did kick in both times. I hear it pulling on the brakes when I already floor the brakes. The tires it came with my car is Firestone FR740. Yes I do notice air lost on it. Have to repump it every 1 to 2 weeks (19000 miles, 7/32(front tires) and 6/32(rear tires.)). Lost 2 psi. So remember to buy a air pump and I recommend getting quick lock on attachment. Unscrewing it when the value air is dirty will make the tires lose a lot of air. Epauto pump and get a lock on attachment.

EPAuto
https://www.amazon.com/EPAuto-Portable-Compressor-Digital-Inflator/dp/B01L9WSTEG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=1KS0PAWVHLG63&keywords=epauto+12v+dc+portable+air+compressor+pump+digital+tire+inflator&qid=1556545244&s=gateway&sprefix=epauto&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A1L7F5DL4H71TK

lock on attachment
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MXBYPT2/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07MXBYPT2&pd_rd_w=mgIO6&pf_rd_p=46cdcfa7-b302-4268-b799-8f7d8cb5008b&pd_rd_wg=kjwzh&pf_rd_r=Q2BFF0AGR3G8NP57HYWH&pd_rd_r=dcbca6f4-6903-11e9-af2b-df456cd2a423&th=1

This one is self lock. I should of gotten this one instead. Oh well.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07L2ZDN13/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/just_play_one_on_tv · 2 pointsr/phoenix

They aren't anyway. Mechanics hate them. Have a portable air compressor (that has a cig lighter cable) and rubber plugs. It's cheap and much safer.

From Amazon: Plug Kit

From Amazon: Air Compressor

u/ice__nine · 2 pointsr/TeslaLounge

I keep these in my frunk, just in case of a flat tire and AAA is not available or far away.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JLQGJGC/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L9WSTEG/

u/oarsof6 · 2 pointsr/BoltEV

I lift from the jack points labeled in the service manual using a floor jack from Harbor Freight, and place them on jack stands for my safety and to protect the car. I also have a TPMS tool to reset the monitoring system.

u/AdversarialPossum42 · 2 pointsr/cruze

The TPMS sensor is built into the valve stem inside the wheel. They're pretty inexpensive but replacing one requires dismounting the tire from the wheel. So if you need to have it replaced, the labor is equivalent to remounting a tire. Not something you can do yourself without a tire mounting machine. The system may just need to be relearned, which is something they can do in the parking lot in just a few minutes. You can do it yourself if you want, you just need a TPMS relearn tool, which is also pretty inexpensive.

TPMS CHEVROLET CRUZE RELEARN


  1. Set the parking brake.
  2. Turn the ignition to ON/RUN with the engine off.
  3. Use the MENU button to select the Vehicle Information menu in the Driver Information Center (DIC).
  4. Use the thumbwheel to scroll to the Tire Pressure Menu item screen.
  5. Press the SET/CLR button to begin the sensor matching process. A message requesting
    acceptance of the process should display.
  6. Press the SET/CLR button again to confirm the selection. The horn sounds twice to signal
    the receiver is in relearn mode and the TIRE LEARNING ACTIVE message displays on the
    DIC screen.
  7. Start with the driver side front tire.
  8. Place the relearn tool against the tire sidewall, near the valve stem. Then press the button
    to activate the TPMS sensor. A horn chirp confirms that the sensor identification code has
    been matched to this tire and wheel position.
  9. Proceed to the passenger side front tire, and repeat the procedure in Step 8.
  10. Proceed to the passenger side rear tire, and repeat the procedure in Step 8.
  11. Proceed to the driver side rear tire, and repeat the procedure in Step 8. The horn sounds
    two times to indicate the sensor identification code has been matched to the driver side rear
    tire, and the TPMS sensor matching process is no longer active. The TIRE LEARNING
    ACTIVE message on the DIC display screen goes off.
  12. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF.
  13. Set all four tires to the recommended air pressure level as indicated on the Tire and
    Loading Information label.

    ​
u/eagle_eye01 · 2 pointsr/cycling

Amen. I used a crappy cheap gauge for years and didn't realize it was off by 10 psi until I recently had a slow leak that made me have to buy a portable tire inflator to keep around. The inflator is calibrated to be accurate within 1 psi, so when I saw how far off my cheap gauge was I just trashed it. I did a lot of research online of gauges to buy and I recently decided to pick up this tire pressure gauge on Amazon and I have been very happy with its performance so far.

Does your bike use schrader or presta valve on the tire?

Definitely recommend getting an accurate gauge and even one of those mini inflators.

u/derpjeep · 1 pointr/Jeep

There are 700 reviews and I can't find any that said their wheels were stolen.

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Automotive-61631-Acorn-Thread/dp/B000CMJ2QE

u/fickle_fuck · 1 pointr/cars

I wonder if the free spinning sleeve lug locks are better alternatives?

u/MarcusAurelius47 · 1 pointr/WTF

Gorilla Guard locks have a rotating cuff on the outside that prevents theft via impact wrench. Only way to remove without a key is hammer and chisel the cuffs off and then impact wrench. Not impossible but a 15-20 minute process that will be a helluva deterrent.

u/PazzoBread · 1 pointr/Bestbuy

These are the wheel locks you should get https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CMJ2QE/?tag=100568-20

They are free spinning (which means the old hammer socket trick will not work on these). Never keep the key in the car unless you're going on a road trip. Just make sure you have AAA for towing incase you get a flat locally, so they can tow it home or tow it to the dealer. Gives you time to get your wheel key.

u/ReneeCycles · 1 pointr/motorcycles

^ this, I always put a little inflator in my back-pack like this one by Slime

u/1over6bil · 1 pointr/Dualsport

The key to deep sand is tire pressure, 18-20 psi for the road turns into a nightmare in the sand. I ride sandy washes in Arizona all the time and I always take the time to air down before I go in them because the difference is really night and day. Typically I go for 10-12 psi.

When I hit the slab again I stop and use this pump to air up, it has been a massive time saver.

Also, this video helped me with the sand, good luck!

u/darfell · 1 pointr/motorcycles

the compressor was 30 bucks, and came with a tire pressure pencil gauge, the repair kit i think was 10 dollars from my local autozone... and the rest i kinda just picked up from home/work.. and the repair kit minus utility knife came with the bike.

u/zooTheBear · 1 pointr/Justrolledintotheshop

Get something like this, just hammer it on and then use impact Wrench. Very easy to use and at my shop i use it at least once a month.
https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-M980-Emergency-Removal/dp/B000FTN3KK

u/jc1350 · 1 pointr/cars

There are all kinds of kits like https://smile.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-M980-Emergency-Removal/dp/B000FTN3KK/ to remove them. The lock will be destroyed, but if you don't have the key, shouldn't be a problem.

u/psychodsm · 1 pointr/AskAMechanic

This is probably the easiest route. Well worth the money

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-M980-Emergency-Removal/dp/B000FTN3KK

u/goRockets · 1 pointr/Cartalk
u/kevan0317 · 1 pointr/4x4

Thanks!

Amazon.com MV-50



Amazon.com MV-1050

u/secessus · 1 pointr/vandwellers

This compressor, sold under various names, was recommended by several hardcore boondockers when I was looking. I have used it 3x on commercial truck tires and it works great.

u/diversification · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

Thanks for the recommendation. As I was looking, I noticed this one www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000L9AD2U/ref=psdcmw_155346011_t2_B000BM8RT8 looks basically identical. Turns out it is. Take a look at the questions and answers area for a full explanation. It's about $25 cheaper, and apparently the one that is being retired can still be found for cheaper still (although I have a feeling that's a very ymmv type of deal.)

One other question: I'd begun thinking about getting a product that has both AC and DC power plugs, but all of those use the lighter plug. As I'm not an off-roader or someone who drives on long road trips frequently, I'm wondering if I need something like this or would just be better served by the aforementioned unit that can take AC power.

EDIT: you know, now that I'm thinking about it, I am definitely thinking of scenarios where I would need to have a compressor that didn't have to be used right next to my vehicle.

u/craigjclemson · 1 pointr/Jeep

This one is the best bang for your buck that I have seen. The price often gets down to around $50.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000L9AD2U?keywords=masterflow%2012v&qid=1452019093&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

u/cdazzo1 · 1 pointr/VEDC

I see recommendations for Viair, but would be remiss if I don't throw this in the mix:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000L9AD2U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got one for my brother maybe 5+ years ago for when he went offroading and had to air down. He loved it because it was a relatively quick refill for his monstrous tires. He still carries it in his new truck with a plug kit. I recently bought one to carry in my trunk. People with RV's seem to rave about it in the comments.

u/bravokiloromeo · 1 pointr/AskMen

Cheap but usable AAA Air Compressor

Jumper cables

At least one flashlight

Leatherman (though I always have a pocket knife on me)

At least 1 gallon of water

Roll of toilet paper and paper towels

u/MySpaceTomsAccount · 1 pointr/couriersofreddit

Amazon ~$17 AAA Lifeline 300 PSI 12 Volt DC Air Compressor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000SL4AA2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wBWKBbTMJ2164

u/Beerificus · 1 pointr/electricvehicles

This is good advice. I'm re-thinking my spare strategy now to include a plug kit, which is only ~$6 and not that hard to use along with a 12VDC air pump (only 4lbs!).

u/elkster88 · 1 pointr/motorcycles

For anyone who doesn't have a full sized air compressor at home, one of the 12V air compressors sold at auto parts or hardware stores are cheap and good enough. I have one in each of my cars, and a cheapy to carry on the bike for trips. This Viair Model 73 is the best of my car-carried compressors, I also have some sub $20 ones like this. You can frequently find them as cheap as $10 on sale.

Add a Battery Tender harness to your bike's battery, and get a cigarette lighter adapter to plug into it, voila, you have 12V power for the compressor, a USB charger, etc.

You can also buy a portable jump starter with an air compressor included.

u/Brandocomando · 1 pointr/subaru

This is what I got: Security Chain Company SC1032 Radial Chain Cable Traction Tire Chain - Set of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VAKXVA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_OLuMKkwuaHv4x

Even with my larger than stock tires they seemed to fit OK. they were a little tricky to get on but eventually got them on. Just make sure you check the tire size. They are really low profile.

u/nerex · 1 pointr/snowboarding

I just used these and they worked great...once i realized that the rubber chain tightener recommended by Amazon that I was using is NOT supposed to be used with the cable-chain type snow chains. There's a big warning on the instructions that I somehow missed when I first got them.

Ugg, this reminds me that i need to clean off my chains- I sprayed them down with with white lithium grease instead of WD-40 at the end of the season, thinking there would be no difference (I know), and now they're all sticky. I may just buy a new set and be done with it!

u/OhioJeeper · 1 pointr/cars

You can get a compressor for less than cost of one of those pumps. Bike pimps really aren't made for car tires. It's possible, but a compressor is way faster and easier.

Viair 00073 70P Heavy Duty Portable Compressor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012WHBSO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ylJcAbCE90XYG

u/Codebender · 1 pointr/Frugal

If you're not looking to run tools and stuff like that, you can get one much cheaper, but the best value seems to be around $50. This is the one I have in my car, though I have a full-size one for nail guns, etc., as well.

u/nodnreh911 · 1 pointr/cars

I've used one to top off a tire that was low, but it does take a while. And that was with a 185/65r17.

I recently bought one of these and it's a lot better.

u/AtheistKharm · 1 pointr/videos

Yea, I use it all the time for lots of things besides the occasional cleaning of my desktops and laptops. Such as maintaining the air in my tires, cleaning the garage, cleaning the inside of my car, and dusting yourself off after doing the yard etc. You might look into just getting an electric air pump if you don't much need for a compressor other than cleaning electronics.

u/stmiller · 1 pointr/raleigh

Buy a small air compressor like this one

u/ahecht · 1 pointr/teslamotors

Most 12v compressors are crap - they take forever and often overheat before they finish inflating your tires. As someone who's been driving on slightly corroded rims with a slow leak for years, I'd highly recommend getting one from Viair. I have the 70p, which is a little slower but can go up to 100psi for my bike tires. I got it for $45, but it's on sale now at Amazon for $30. The 85p is faster, but it only goes to 60psi, so it would be a better bet if you're only planning on using it on car tires.

u/millertyme007 · 1 pointr/MINI

Air Power America 5060 Topsider Multi-Purpose Fluid Removing System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001445IZ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FcWszbYHR74QC

This

u/uid_0 · 1 pointr/Justrolledintotheshop

Time to go buy a TopSider.

u/pawnbrojoe · 1 pointr/Justrolledintotheshop

A few years back the oil change place stripped the threads on my drain plug. I did something similar to OP and used this. It was slightly more of a pain but not much.

u/kalpol · 1 pointr/Austin

Also if you can get to the oil filter from above, look into a topside oil changer. I run the car until it's warm, suck out the oil, swap out the filter cartridge, and don't have to do anything but pump down the can and dispose of the oil.

u/bri3d · 1 pointr/cars

http://www.amazon.com/America-5060-Topsider-Multi-Purpose-Removing/dp/B001445IZ8

I don't know why a shop with a pit would use one as it's slower than draining the oil and some factory manuals say not to do it (since it doesn't drain / alert you to anything sitting in the bottom of the pan, for one), but it is a real thing.

u/bkdlays · 1 pointr/GolfGTI

I went with this one.
Some are plastic which is nice to be able to see as you fill. In the end I decided metal might be stronger and longer lasting.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001445IZ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/neonshaun · 1 pointr/Autos

I think I would care more if I didn't have one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001445IZ8?keywords=oil%20extractor&qid=1449091557&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

makes changing any fluid painless...

u/Navec · 1 pointr/GolfGTI

Get an oil extractor, way cleaner and easier. This one is nice and has caps so you can put it in your car when full without making a mess. The oil filter is on top too, so you don't have to worry about getting under the car and messing with that plug.

u/BradApples · 1 pointr/FiestaST

Here are the ones I bought and they fit:
Amazon Link

I think I just looked up the size of the stock ones and found some with matching thread dimensions.

u/pdevente · 1 pointr/FocusST

Got it. And yep, you'll just need thinner/'tuner' lugs for the wheels.
Lots of people (including myself) run Gorilla Lugs and have had good experiences. Of course any lugs a shop provides should do just fine as well.

Gorilla Automotive 21133BC Small Diameter Acorn Black 5 Lug Kit (12mm x 1.50 Thread Size) - Pack of 20 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O0AMZS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7fajDbFTTNN40

u/TheDannestDan · 1 pointr/FiestaST

I went with these on recommendation from several people in this sub. They feel pretty high quality and look great with black wheels.

u/afrotec · 1 pointr/Honda

Good time for you to buy some locking lug nuts to keep those nice new wheels safe, like these: http://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Automotive-21133BC-Diameter-Thread/dp/B001O0AMZS/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1458856094&sr=1-1&keywords=gorilla+lug+nuts

While you probably can still remove them without the key, it won't be without some effort, and it's at least a bit more difficult to remove than the stock bolts.

u/Cincy-with-a-y · 1 pointr/FocusST

These are what I have on my car.


Gorilla Automotive 21133BC Small Diameter Acorn Black 5 Lug Kit (12mm x 1.50 Thread Size) - Pack of 20 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O0AMZS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_O.NQDbX1GHN1V

I’ve had them since January 2018 (According to my amazon page)

I don’t know if it’s a solid piece or a cap, but the way it’s splined, you don’t get the sheering of the bolt that the OEM ones do.

I haven’t had any issues or warping with mine either, and I take my wheels off often enough rotating them and such.

u/D00MK0PF · 1 pointr/Celica

lug size is M12 x 1.5


lug pattern is 5 x 100


so something like this

u/VaginaPenisNetwork · 1 pointr/FiestaST
u/Blindeye081 · 1 pointr/FiestaST
u/iSamurai · 1 pointr/FiestaST

Yes, there are plenty of posts on here about them. I preemptively bought these and they have been just fine: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O0AMZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&sa-no-redirect=1

u/crazyrussian540 · 1 pointr/FiestaST

> I tried your 2nd link, https://www.ebay.com/itm/163194228589, meh... not so impressed. The seller sent me a 2nd bottle after I showed him how dark it was compared to stock. The 2nd bottle was a bit better, but not by much.

Thanks! That's exactly the input I was looking for. The eBay seller actually also replied to me overnight with the following

>To be honest we are not too sure on the US Spec models.

I did do some research and found out that even though the US and Euro Rado Grays were supposed to be the same, they may have been slightly different since its allegedly a very hard color to mix. Also found the paint code for Rado Gray, but I can only find one reference to it anywhere on the web, and it happens to be Color N Drive (same kit as the Amazon link in my OP). I may actually give that one a try. Will report back if I decide to do it.

As for lug nuts, I am planning on ditching the OEM ones. Currently I'm using the set that came with my steelies from Tire Rack and just got this set of black Gorilla lug nuts for when I go back to summers.

u/kandoras · 1 pointr/TrollXChromosomes

OK, should these things happen again, here are some things you should keep in the trunk.

A tire inflator that plugs into your cigarette lighter. It won't help much with larger leaks, but for smaller ones it'll let you reinflate the tire long enough to get to an auto shop.

If you want to plug a leak, you'll need a tire repair kit. This isn't as simple to use as the inflator (you'd want to practice or at least see it done first), but it's not rocket science either. A word of caution though: the needles used in those kits have been known to break, so don't do what that guy did at 2:48 where he was lucky not to give himself a vasectomy.

If the nail or whatever is still in the tire, then you'll need something like vice grips to pull it out. If it's not in the tire, then you'll need the inflator to push air in and some (preferably soapy) water to see pour on the tire and see bubbles where the air is coming out.

And since this kit is $6 and has plugs to fix four flats and a shop will charge you $5 to fix one, it doesn't take that long to start saving a few bucks.

A set of jumper cables. Honestly, I don't know why dealerships don't put this in every car that drives off the lot. Here's how to use them correctly. With these, you won't need to call AAA for (most) dead batteries, just find some kind soul willing to let you jump off of their car. For jumper cables there's a few things you want to look for:

  • Made of 100% copper. Cheaper ones are made of aluminum or aluminum with a copper shell. Those don't work as well, and they break easier.
  • Longer is better. After all, they're no good if they won't reach!
u/Dreble · 1 pointr/wheredidthesodago

I would. When I need to air up the tires, I set the PSI and leave it to do its thing. The only thing is that it don't come with a battery, so unless you have other 18v Ryobi tools with the same battery then it doesn't make sense to buy one. Also probably not a good one for a car trunk.

This one is in my wife's trunk and it works just as well. Also highly recommend.

u/trebor89 · 1 pointr/Cartalk

(OP's post is going to get removed whenever one of the mods shows up, since /r/CarTalk is not Car Talk, but just for specific repair questions. Before that happens, does anyone know of a subreddit with an attitude more in keeping with the Car Talk namesake?)

OP: Some folks have suggested tire inflating foam. I carry a plug kit and a cheap battery-driven compressor like this. You can find a cheaper alternative pretty easily online. Keeping the compressor around reminds me to top off my wheels regularly, whereas foam can only be used in emergencies.

I also keep a couple of water bottles, a sleeping bag, and a pair of those "hot hands" things in my trunk in case of getting stranded, although that's probably not very necessary in your area.

u/oijalksdfdlkjvzxc · 1 pointr/NoStupidQuestions

Ideally, you should own a portable tire inflator. They're inexpensive, and you can keep them in your trunk in case of emergencies. Something like this would work great. You just plug it into your cigarette lighter, connect it to the air valve on your tire, tell it what pressure to inflate to (as listed on a sticker inside your driver's side front door), and it will do the rest. Technically, you should check your tire pressure every time you fill up with gas, but I tend to only check every couple of months.

If you have a leak, you can take your car to a local tire shop (Wal-Mart and Costco do this too), and they should be able to patch it for you fairly quickly (depending on how busy they are) and inexpensively (usually no more than $25). Some places even do it for free.

u/sirspandex · 1 pointr/ElectricScooters

I use an air compressor I keep in my car like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036E9VB6

It's pricey, but it's very handy and it takes just a second or two to fill my m365 tires to 60psi (which drops to 50 from unscrewing it).

u/duce190 · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

Cant speak of a jump pack/inflator combo but I use this inflator regularly and it is awesome.

VIAIR 85P Portable Air Compressor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036E9VB6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9dpBDbZZMZ6QR

u/Starman2018 · 1 pointr/TeslaLounge

I bought this pump: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036E9VB6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Combined with this plug kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ET525K/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I don't think the Tesla kit is worth it and I've heard the compound it sprays into the tire is ironically ineffective since Tesla tires have acoustic foam in them.

u/coke_can_turd · 1 pointr/AskNYC

If you need it for a car, I recommend you grab one of these and keep it in your trunk:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0036E9VB6/

It's pretty nice being able to just check and adjust pressure right where you parked. It also saved me a few times when I got a nail or screw in a tire that caused a slow leak - no need to put on the spare to drive it to get patched.

u/trueluck3 · 1 pointr/Jeep

No explanation necessary, I totally get it! When I first started driving on the beach, as a teenager, getting stuck was the biggest fear one could have. And we always dabbled with getting stuck, because no one ever told us to air down your tires or any other little tidbits required for driving on sand. Obviously being in 4x4 HI will always make for an easier drive. However, 4x4 LOW could really start digging unnecessarily with all that torque. All those great features us Jeep owners love are for off-road trails, most of them will not be required for driving on sand.

All that being said, the absolute key for driving on sand is low tire pressure, allowing you to "float" on the sand. If your local outer beaches don't have air stations, you'll have to invest in a air pump or drive with the hazards to the closest gas station. I use a Viair 00088 88P Portable Air Compressor and love it - takes about 2 minutes a tire on my stock KL Trailhawk Destination A/Ts.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005ASY23I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UjmMxbM96HK7H



TLDR: Air down to 15psi for beach driving.

u/Anonymous3891 · 1 pointr/pics

He's right. A battery clamp model is not significantly less convenient or much more expensive than a cigarette lighter compressor and it will fill your tire 3-5 times faster. That outlet is just limited on the amps it can pull.


I can go from 20 to 40 PSI in about 4 minutes per tire with mine. I run 45 highway but those extra 5lbs take too long and the compressor is burning hot by the time I finish the 4th tire. I've seen people put 5-10lbs in a tire with cigarette socket models (and have tried as such myself) and decided that was enough to get to the nearest gas station and finish the job.

Onboard air of course does not make sense for most people, but for regular offroaders it does. Especially if you have air locking differentials than need it anyway. Another popular option is actually using a CO2 tank. You get that filled up beforehand and it works very fast with no power required. They're usually good for 3-4 complete fill-ups.

u/cycobiz · 1 pointr/4x4

I'd suggest the Viair 88P. The first review gives a comparison of all the new Viair models. I use mine nearly every weekend in the summer to air up my F250's tires (315/70/17) from 12psi to 50psi when leaving the beach, and it can do all four in 15-20 minutes. Pretty good for a 12v inflator.

I had the Harbor Freight 150psi 12v inflator before that, which worked slowly...for about the first two trips. Took like 30 minutes to air up. Then it just lost pressure. Guessing that a seal blew out.

u/kingfrito_5005 · 1 pointr/volt

Okay so here is the part thats included

Its kinda pricey. Its a pretty beefy compressor and it has a replaceable fix-a-flat style sealant canister.

Now you can get a beefier, similarly sized compressor for less money, like this one but thats going to actually be more than you need. Ive seen a few complaints from that brand that if you are over ~80 psi they will pop the fuse in your car, rather than the one in the compressor (which can take a pretty hefty amperage.)

Cheaper still, something like what I was using before I bought my volt would be a small hand held affair This isnt the exact model I had but its similar, and a comparable price. This is going to be slow to inflate your tire, but the benefit is it takes up virtually no space at all.

This is actually the sort of thing I would recommend. Its medium sized, reasonably powerful but not a monster, and it has a built in flashlight (which is SO helpful.)

A decent compressor can be got from walmart for $20, but if you want to spend more there are a ton of good options of all shapes and sizes and at any price point you can imagine.

Last but not least, if you dont get the GM one, you should include a can of fix-a-flat in any car, whether you have a spare or not.

PS a good alternative to the GM one might be the fix-a-flat brand compressor which also has a canister, and is a good price.

u/fatkyat · 1 pointr/ToyotaTacoma

I have a Viair 88p that gets the job done. It's an little slower than some other options but compact, reliable, and priced right for someone who isn't using it routinely. A 45% duty cycle is enough to get all four tires aired up from 20 to 35 PSI in about 20 minutes.

u/eyeteach · 1 pointr/4x4

I have this one in my shopping cart but haven't pulled the trigger yet. Any opinions?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ASY23I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/MINI

This is the pump I bought, so I think it would be strong enough to pump it without lifting the car but Im not sure (I don't know jack about cars...this is my first one in a very long time!).

I also bought a bottle of Slime!

u/Boleo · 1 pointr/Miata

I'm not sure that these are the exact same fit as yours but they aren't hard to find. A tire shop can probably help you. Those nuts can have better clearance for alloy wheels and maybe to help prevent theft. If you notice the first link has a review with a picture where it broke just like yours so maybe stay away from the first one. Read the description and look at close up pics to make sure you get the right one.

https://www.amazon.com/POINT-SPLINE-TUNER-Mr-Lugnut/dp/B006UH66R8

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Automotive-1921SD-KEY-Standard-Diameter/dp/B001O07VI4/

https://www.amazon.com/McGard-65300-SplineDrive-Installation-Tool/dp/B000COTX9S/

u/UberIceCream · 1 pointr/cars
u/cty_hntr · 1 pointr/SubaruForester

Take a look at this TPMS reset tool.
https://www.amazon.com/ATEQ-QuickSet-TPMS-Reset-Tool/dp/B008SCWXN4

Some people just forgo TPMS sensors and put a piece of black electrical tape to cover up the dash light.

u/sennister · 1 pointr/WRX

There are people saying they can use this to reprogram the tpms on the WRX.

https://www.amazon.com/ATEQ-QuickSet-TPMS-Reset-Tool/dp/B008SCWXN4

As for tires. It kind of depends on what you want. I have read reviews where people felt dedicated winters like Blizzak provided too much grip. That they wanted to be able to slide the car a bit more. Well that is personal preference. I know in my A4 many years ago I really liked my Pilot Sport A/S. I think that was the tire. They did really well year round so I would run them. I went from that to a Jetta TDI and with fwd I used a set of Michelin X Ice and they were pretty good. Night and day different than any all season I had on the car. I am also debating on what to do with my WRX this winter.

Edit: some more info on the Area

http://www.ateqtpm.com/quickset/

u/Itanius · 1 pointr/SubaruForester

I just did a bit of research on this yesterday, since I plan on getting new wheels/tires with a full-sized spare to rotate in. It seems you'll have to go to a tire installer to have the new set programmed in every season, or use a TPMS tool to do it yourself.

There are plenty of threads on the Forester forum, here's a helpful one:

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f72/2014-2-sets-tpms-possible-709114/

The ATEQ Quickset TPMS Reset Tool:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008SCWXN4/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dhW1GXjPEBI

u/chriskmee · 1 pointr/subaru

Subaru wanted to charge me about $65, so I said I would rather just deal with the light, because $65 now and $65 when I swap back to summer tires means $130 a year.

The manufacturers tool cost like $3000 or something ridiculous to do the TPMS reset. This $150 tool claims to work on Subaru models, and comments seem to confirm that. No personal experience with it though, but it looks good.

http://www.amazon.com/ATEQ-QuickSet-TPMS-Reset-Tool/dp/B008SCWXN4/

u/Bryology · 1 pointr/subaru

I priced out a new set on TireRack with TPMS and it was about a grand. But then I have to deal with either purchasing a reset tool like this one:

http://www.amazon.com/ATEQ-QuickSet-TPMS-Reset-Tool/dp/B008SCWXN4

Or have the dealership do a TPMS reset. Pretty much a PITA for something as simple as swapping wheels. I probably would have pulled the trigger already if it wasn't for the TPMS hurdles.

u/krcub · 1 pointr/WRX

You can do the swap without touching the TPMS but then you have to deal with the TPMS warning light (and the system not working).

I no longer have my 2016 WRX but IMO spending a few hundred to get rid of the warning light and have a functional TPMS system during the colder months was well worth it.

Here was my setup:

Stock tires with stock TPMS
New winter wheels with new set of TPMS

Tool to program the ECU with the winter/summer TPMS codes: https://www.amazon.com/ATEQ-QuickSet-TPMS-Reset-Tool/dp/B008SCWXN4

Tool to "wakeup" the sensors (they go to sleep after sometime being inactive): https://www.tirerack.com/tpms/detail.jsp?ID=169&cat=TPMS+Tool

TPMS sensors: Winter tire setup and TPMS bought form Tire Rack.

Steps:

1.) Use the first tool and its software to upload the winter TPMS codes (they were provided to me by tire rack at my request) and assign them to the winter button. Don't forget to "read" and store your summer sensors to the tool/software and summer button. If my memory serves me correctly, the tool pulls the TPMS codes currently in your car if you need to.
2.) Change your tires, plug in the tool to your obd-ii port and press the winter button
3) Use the trigger tool to wake up your winter tire sensors.

The process is just as easy for the winter to summer wheel changeout. Once the codes are in the tool it's just a matter of changing your tires and reprogramming the ECU.

I hope this helps!

u/bazfoobar · 1 pointr/ft86

I use an ATEQ Quickset http://www.amazon.com/ATEQ-QuickSet-TPMS-Reset-Tool/dp/B008SCWXN4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368901358&sr=8-1&keywords=ateq+quickset which stores both my summer and winter TPMS sensor ID's. It plugs into the OBD2 port and you can toggle between the two sets at will.

u/finadandil · 1 pointr/subaruimpreza

Did you get the ID numbers for the TPMS sensors? I bought a scanner for reading the numbers (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AERMVYC/), as well as the tool for uploading the numbers into the Subaru (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008SCWXN4/), but I've not been able to read the sensor ID numbers from the new sensors. The upshot is my TPMS monitoring light is on all Winter. The sensors TireRack gave me are just listed as "433MHZ TIRE PRESSURE SENSOR" and they weren't able to give me the ID numbers...

u/Standeck · 1 pointr/Wrangler

Good looking wheels! The sand mats are from Amazon and help to completely block any view out the rear window so I have a rear view camera with wireless 7" display screen that is searching for a good mounting solution.

u/dak1b2006 · 1 pointr/4Runner
u/ultrakill01 · 1 pointr/Montero

Maxtrax

Also D-Rings and a tow strap or snatch strap for somebody to pull you out.D-Ring Snatch Strap

u/Yourestupider · 1 pointr/VEDC

These are on the expensive side but are great to carry for all terrains

Here

u/illegible · 1 pointr/pics

hah, never mind... I figured it out

u/driftingrover · 1 pointr/CampingandHiking

These for getting unstuck.

u/Redwood839 · 1 pointr/kia

Did your boyfriend post here a few days ago? If he didn't, then someone here came with exactly the same issue, in exactly the same state.

​

Multiple of us recommended just buying a tool to remove the wheel locks off. They're on Amazon, and if you're gentle about them you can return them and just say they didn't work. With prime you could've had them off by now, and your car fixed.

​

I get you, it's frustrating. But for the future, if your car has locking wheel nuts then make sure that they key is always returned back. I never leave a dealer without checking if I know the wheels have been off. I honestly don't see Kia paying for this, as it would be by word that the dealer lost your key. You are responsible after all.

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This could've been solved, with a purchase on Amazon or another site in 2 days. Or you could've just found someone who works on wheels that was willing to come out and remove them. I'm sure even in remote upstate NY, you would've found someone.

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Here's a few examples

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https://www.amazon.com/Steelman-Pro-78537-16-Piece-Locking/dp/B00JF5F420?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1

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https://www.amazon.com/Shankly-Twist-Socket-Remover-Sockets/dp/B076WQMSVB?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2

u/Kimington · 1 pointr/LifeProTips

Have you checked out JACO Superior Products? They make the BEST products for car emergency kits:

1 - Auto first aid kit

2 - Good quality tire pressure gauge

3 - Portable tire inflator

4 - Mini battery jump starter

5 - Trunk organizer to keep everything in

u/HippolyteMariia · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Amazon china? As someone else suggested, try the 12v tire inflator that jaco makes: https://www.amazon.com/JACO-SmartPro-Digital-Tire-Inflator/dp/B015VXWZ9O

u/PhiladelphiaFloora · 1 pointr/cars

If you really want to do it right, buy a digital portable tire inflator and that has automatic shut off function (will stop when it hits your target pressure) and verify the results with a reliable tire air gauge. I recommend a mechanical gauge as you will be leaving it in your car and don't want to deal with dead batteries when you need it most.

Here is what I use:

1 - Digital Tire Inflator

2 - Elite Tire Pressure Gauge

u/AUTIGERS2121 · 1 pointr/fantasybaseball

This thing is badass.

this thing

u/resykle · 1 pointr/Lexus

my friends have this guy and apparently it works well enough - https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GB40-UltraSafe-Lithium-Starter/dp/B015TKUPIC/

I also have this one for tires and it works remarkably well for being so cheap - way easier to deal with than going to gas stations - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L9WSTEG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a small tote bag w/ a change of clothes + contact lenses and spare meds just in case as well, my lexus came w/ a first aid kid so im trusting that'd cover anything else

u/jankdc · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

I have the 77p and I like it.

Viair (00077) 77P Portable Compressor Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CDW2MCM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_42XmDb6GT0F2A

Also check out the EPAuto 12V DC Portable Air Compressor Pump, Digital Tire Inflator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L9WSTEG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_o4XmDbQ5Y9QC6

Though I think that the Viairs will probably be more durable.

u/itonlygetsworse · 1 pointr/DIY

Gotcha. I'll spend the 1-2 hours doing the research. The one you linked looks good for baseline, I saw on amazon this air compressor for $40 with good reviews that I am considering now that I saw what you linked. But the people who sell it don't suggest using a AC DC converter for wall plugs.

Then again I am also looking at this which has more power and can plug into a wall but it isn't for tires and stuff.

u/xilex · 1 pointr/teslamotors

Here's what I've been using:

EPAuto 12V DC Portable Air... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L9WSTEG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Rhino USA Heavy Duty Tire... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J580F2K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/atliia · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

I bought the one below on oct. 8th 2018. So I would not say I have had it a long time. But, I have used it over a dozen times. Unfortunately. To file a tire from 0psi to 35-40psi takes some time. I used it quite a bit in the harsh midwest winter last year and I was able to sit in the car while it filled the tire. In the future I would look for something with a higher CFM.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L9WSTEG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As for jump pack I have the viking pack from harbor freight. It currently has a 75% charge. And I cannot remember when I last plugged it in.

u/Cardchucker · 1 pointr/vandwellers

The one I have doesn't seem to be available anymore but something like this should work:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L9WSTEG

There are a bunch of different no-name brands selling the same thing with minor differences. I would consider them to be equivalent.

u/1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 · 1 pointr/cars

This is the one I plan on ordering

4.5 star rating from over 900 reviews

LED light, digital pressure gauge

u/Arik_De_Frasia · 1 pointr/NewOrleans
u/hltp03 · 1 pointr/TeslaModel3

After seeing your post, I just ordered this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L9WSTEG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1L7F5DL4H71TK&psc=1#customerReviews

Hopefully I never have to use it!

u/mysta316 · 1 pointr/chevycolorado

Ok that makes more since. Rotating the same 4 sensors to another spot on the truck would not set off the light. But if you have a screen that shows tire pressure it won't be correct. But the truck will only register 4 sensors at one time. So swapping to summer/winter tires would need to be registered. Have you looked into something like this

u/JonBoy470 · 1 pointr/Justrolledintotheshop

Replacement sensors for GM aren’t that expensive. Amazon sells the ACDelco 13598771 GM Original Equipment Tire Pressure Sensor TPMS Set of Four (4) for under $60. The trick is getting them installed, which requires un-mounting the tires.

GM vehicles require a special “EL-50448” tool that costs ~$60 at the parts counter of a GM dealer, to re-learn the TPMS sensors. Again, Amazon comes to the rescue with a Chinese knock-off: VXDAS EL-50448 Auto Tire Pressure Monitor Sensor TPMS Relearn Reset Activation Tool OEC-T5 for GM Series Vehicle. There are a number of other knock-offs. This was just the first one that came up. They’re all <$20 on Amazon.

u/JonBoy-470 · 1 pointr/autorepair

Weird. The shops near you must not work on GM products very often. GM vehicles, 2011 and newer, all require use of a relearn tool to program new sensors. Relearn tools compatible with the “official” GM unit (and indistinguishable from it, save branding) sell on eBay and Amazon for less than $15. I bought this one to reprogram my sensors after the dealer forgot to relearn after rotating the tires. It was quicker, more convenient, and cheaper (in terms of the value of my time) than going back and making them fix it.

The “official” tool is available from http://www.gmtoolsandequipment.com or call 1-800-GM TOOLS (1-800-468-6657). I’m sure the dealer parts counter could get it also.

u/deekster_caddy · 1 pointr/Buick

Well it's not that bad. If you GM is the kind that requires the 'activation tool' this is the tool that will activate the sensors once you have the vehicle in 'learn mode' (see your owners manual, you might be able to get to this mode yourself)

https://www.amazon.com/VXDAS-EL-50448-Pressure-Monitor-Activation/dp/B072BK693N/

and if you get into it hardcore, one of these will do most of what any tire shop needs to do:

https://www.amazon.com/Autel-TS501-Activation-Diagnostic-Professional/dp/B01LRJ7UD2/

u/Ulaven · 1 pointr/BoltEV

I bought the tool to initialize the tire sensors when I bought a set of snow tires and rims the first winter I owned my 2017 Bolt EV. It's a very simple process and the tool itself was cheap through Amazon. Less than $10 US. I go through this twice a year when swapping tires and rims.

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072BK693N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/tennisguy163 · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

I ended up buying a JACO compressor that can connect to AC power since the fuse (DC) died in my car. It's the best compressor I've ever used, worth the money.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07694R3ZV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I now have 3 total compressors. Only the JACO connects to AC power and I keep it at home, the other 2 are Slime brands which haven't let me down yet.

u/Plob218 · 0 pointsr/forwardsfromgrandma

You can buy a tire pressure gauge for less than $5 at any auto supply store. It looks kind of like a pen or stylus with a small opening on one end. You can also buy digital gauges, but I don't see the benefit. The battery will die after a year or two, and it's usually not easy to replace. An analogue one will last forever and you can just toss it in your glove box and forget about it. (While you're at it, why not pick up a $2 scraper for removing your registration sticker every 2 years?)

When you open your driver's side door you should see a sticker that lists the optimal air pressure. It should say something like 30 or 35 PSI, sometimes with a different value for the front and back tires. Unscrew the little black cap from your valve stem (the place where you put air in the tire) and don't lose it! They're really small and like to roll away if you put them on the ground. Press the open end of your gauge against the valve stem. On the other end, a little ruler will pop out. The number indicated on the ruler is your current air pressure. Press the ruler all the way back in and test it again just to be sure you got an accurate reading.

If you're more than 1 or 2 PSI low, I'd suggest putting some more air in. For $20 you can get a portable air compressor that plugs into your cigarette lighter. If you're over by more than 1 or 2 PSI, release some air by pressing the tiny little pin in the middle of your valve stem. You'll hear a hissing sound. Whether you're putting air in or letting air out, check your pressure again every 10 seconds or so to make sure you didn't go too far. When you get a good reading, make sure you remember to put the valve stem caps back on!

If you live somewhere where it gets cold in the winter, now is a very good time to do this. Colder temperatures make your tire pressure drop, and tires with low pressure have worse traction and increased stopping time. So it's a double whammy--colder temps make you more likely to have low pressure, and low pressure makes you more susceptible to the hazards of colder temps.

u/brend123 · -1 pointsr/buildapc

> as a vacuum. I have a 7+ year old vacuum that sounds like a jet taking flight, seriously wont let you hear

It is pretty loud, but it is totally worth it. I purchased mine 2 years ago for around 35 bucks. It is incredibly well made with very thick steel. probably the best purchased I've made after this portable tire inflator