Best automotive tools & equipment according to redditors

Would you be able to provide a link to the $10 bluetooth adapter? I did some looking at the link provided in google play store app and it listed adapters in a very wide range of prices.

Edit: Link to the one I am getting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2LSIJ8LSS1TOE&colid=2W3R0OMRJ15R6

I have 2 of them. 10 dollars each


Edit: I can't find the $10 ones I have but here is one for $20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/

Edit: obligatory Thank you kind stranger for giving me gold!

Get one of these, plug it into your car in the port hidden under your steering wheel, download app called Torque, get error code, google error code, see if it's something you can fix yourself (often it is).

Edit: These only work on Android. You can buy dedicated units (also cheap) or you can buy an iOS version that costs 4x as much. Similarly cheap priced models claim to work on iOS, but I have yet to see anyone actually get one of them to work.

I thought this would qualify, but I misremembered the price, it's $23.99, but it's the best I could do

BAFX Products (TM) - PIC18F2480 Bluetooth OBD2 scan tool - For check engine light and other diagnostics - Android compatible

Yes - I bought a cheap $15 bluetooth ODB2 module that links to my phone. From there, I use Torque to manage everything. Great for testing sensors, checking codes, etc... Also cool to have it in my glovebox for when my coworkers need one out of the blue - makes you look cool for half a second.

EDIT: Here is what I use for the module:
https://www.amazon.com/Kitbest-Bluetooth-Scanner-Diagnostic-Warranty/dp/B01BY2CK32

As for the app, I use Torque Pro:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque

3 Valve Ford spark plugs.

Here's the tool you need.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-LIS65600-Broken-Remover-Engines/dp/B00267PZUK

Here's how they come out if you're having a bad day (My '07 GT had a bad day - not my picture)
http://s208.photobucket.com/user/jperea27/media/sparkplugs1.jpg.html

Here's how they come out if you're lucky (and then buy a lottery ticket)
http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/Ford_Spark_Plug_Problems.jpg

Just so you know there are much cheaper alternatives to the Bluedriver. I personally use this one and it provides all the same stuff the Bluedriver provides for 1/5 the cost so you only have to work an hour and a half.

Why would you pay $75 for an OBDII scanner when you can buy the same thing on Amazon for $24?

Not that you'd have the time to fix it yourself(or even be allowed to) but if you're curious you can get an ELM 327 ODB Bluetooth code reader for like $20.

This is the one I got. It's a true ELM 327 reader and not some Chinese reverse engineered hacked together crap. I keep it plugged into my ODB reader all the time.

The reason these are so cheap compared to a professional shop reader is because the reader is just an interface and knows how to talk to the computer. It just "translates" and passes stuff along to your phone/tablet which does the real heavy lifting. Torque Pro or Forscan(for Ford/Mazda) apps on your phone. You'd at least be able to see "oh shit, low oil pressure" or "shit water temps are through the roof, that's why it wont go above 95" so I'm about to be sitting on the side of the road for an hour. Or if it's just like some random dead O2 sensor or an occasional misfire on a cylinder or some vacuum leak that's making it run weird. You'd at least have some peace of mind.

Or spend $20 on an OBDII scanner that pairs to your phone, with a free app to read the codes.

This way, anything 1996 or newer (except for some exotic cars) can be read without having to jump on one foot backwards while humming the star spangled banner and cycling the ignition 5 times.

Here's one you can buy on Amazon that hooks to your Android via Bluetooth - Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool for Android Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/

As I am a subaru tech, these don't scare me anymore. But i'll let you in on the tricks that work for me.

1. Use an oil filter claw. I'm partial to the 2-jaw, like the Lisle 63600. Put that on a 6" extension and then a cheapie 3/8" ratchet. We're only going to use this to crack the filter loose, maybe 1/4 turn.
   
2. Let the filter drain! The oil that's in the filter will stay there obviously, but the oil in the pipework to and from the filter will want to drain back. Let it flow down the filter and into your catch. When it stops dribbling, proceed to 3.
   
3. If it's not so hot, simply place a shop rag over your hand, reach up there, and spin it off. Be careful not to tip the filter over and dump its oil on the exhaust.
   
4. If it really is a scorcher, grab one of those ubiquitous foam coffee cups from the break room or wherever, and shove it onto the bottom of the filter. The bottom of the cup will hang down low enough for you to spin it free without touching the exhaust.
   
5. Verify the oil filter seal didn't stick to the engine before installing new filter, via step 3 method if necessary.
   
   At this point i've just calloused my wrists and the back of my hands though so usually I just barehand it.

There are already apps available that link via Bluetooth to a ODB2 sensor that will diagnose your vehicles. The sensors are really cheap and can be found on sites like amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-diagnostics-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420159880&sr=8-1&keywords=odb2

Got this one for $12 and it works great with Torque and other apps on Android.

Also, check this little guy out. If your car is model year 1996 or newer, it should have an onboard diagnostic port- usually located underneath the steering wheel in the foot well. Plug that scanner into it and pair it to your phone via bluetooth and you can read the fault codes that caused your check engine light. It eliminates A LOT of worry or guesswork.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS

Is the one I usually see recommended. Cheaper ones are flaky, more expensive ones are a waste of money.

buy this to extract the remaining bits of the plug http://smile.amazon.com/Lisle-LIS65600-Broken-Remover-Engines/dp/B00267PZUK/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1450292568&sr=1-1&keywords=lisle+spark+plug+removal+tool

• Screwdrivers
  
  
• Needle nose pliers
  
  
• Sockets
  
  
• Electric Drill
  
  
• Putty knife and spackle
  
  
• Level
  
  
• Hammer
  
  
• Work gloves
  
  
• Stud finder
  
  
• Tape Measure
  
  
• A good, small flashlight--keep one in the car and one in the home
  
  
• A toolbox to store it all
  
  
  Specifically for my truck I have:
  
  a flexing spark plug socket like this one and spark plug pullers
  
  An OBD II Scanner
  
  Auto jack(s)
  
  An oil pan and an oil filter wrench or other tool that makes the filter easier to remove
  
  And, of course, jumper cables, a poncho or two, some spare water bottles and all that good stuff that stays in the truck too.
  
  
  Edit: Honestly, this is a great place to start--Stanley 65-Piece Homeowner's Tool Kit
  
  

Buy this oil filter wrench in both sizes they make https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8 It will remove stuck filters very easy.

This is the 65600 not your 65700, I don't know the difference, but read the first review- you won't be disappointed.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-LIS65600-Broken-Remover-Engines/dp/B00267PZUK

I'm just a tinker too, but if he doesn't have a scan tool to reader error codes, look at the new Bluetooth sets. Plug in to the OBD2 port and download the app to you phone. Get all the codes and internet research in one, plus see engine manager info on some models.

They're not expense and are available on Amazon. This is similar the one I have. and there are a lot of options out there.

Screw that Groupon one. Here's one from Amazon that is the same price all the time and is better. I ordered one and can't be more pleased. Read the reviews and answered questions on Amazon for some great tips, including how to reset the check engine light.

Here is my advice, buy some new strings and a feeler gauge. Grab an allen wrench, a screw driver, and your tuner. Restring your bass with the new strings. Then watch this video for neck adjustment. It helps to have a capo, if you dont and pen and some rubber bands will do fine. After you watch that video set up your bass neck relief. Then set your intonation. This covers most of what you need to do to get it sounding more accurate. This should help with the fret buzz.

Bead Jack changed my life, bro. You can't afford not to buy it.

How about a diagnostic reader? Something like this. Basically if your car has the engine (or another) light on you can plug that in and your phone will tell you what the problem is. You'll need an app like Torque for it to work.

A dashcam is another gift that is something anyone could benefit from, but not everyone would necessarily think to buy for themselves. Over on /r/dashcam they have some really good guides on what to get. Expect to spend about $100, though. It seems like this one is the best bang for your buck according to their guide.

Protip 1: a lot of autopart stores will check what the light means for free.

Protip 2: Get this And this and be able to check the lights and reset them yourself along with monitoring a ton of other vehicle functions

Bluetooth versions generally work with Android phones. They will not work with iPhones, however.

I bought one of these that works fairly well with an old Galaxy SII phone. I use the torque app to read live info and codes: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS

On a related note, for anyone looking to do this with a car you can buy cheap bluetooth OBD2 modules on Amazon for about $25.

On Android most people use the app Torque.

I use the $5 paid version of torque, I don't remember what the limitations are for the free version of it but it's money well spent because you can view a lot of diag data, check engine codes etc.

There are a couple times where I connected it to peoples cars, texted them the CEL codes, and cleared the light for them when its something simple. It was money well spent.

For those who aren't aware you just need a bluetooth OBDII dongle to use the Torque/Torque Pro app with any android phone or tablet. For example, lots of folks find that this cheap one works great: http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-diagnostics-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS.

Similar IOS apps require a wifi rather than bluetooth dongle, such as this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B3K2X4M/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687602&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00AOIM2CC&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0R28R3007FHNY5Q2RS73

uhh yeah, not sure if you understand how much faster computers are than you at math, but it would take the entire population of mankind to compete with my GPU at mathematics.

it could easily be a OBD RF transmitter. tech already exists. look now i just need to run a real time simulation oh noes! if only we could do that on a phone...

EDIT: for example a $70 GPU does over a trillion floating point operations a second, I doubt you could get 7 billion people to do that. Did i mention it did that with a mere 80 Watts of power...

50's Kid (Super Awesome): https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCml-eeSLJZ38Q5_sUnUXrZw

Shop Life TV (Pretty effen gewd): https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5jnm5CEnLSEmoQ-ktgAj6g

Well the people in the forums are the people with the problems, but that's not to say they aren't the most knowledgeable group of people about the e46. But the youngest E46 is 12 years old, so unless it's a garage kept car from an old couple, it'll have to be fixed a little soon into your ownership. You'll be advised to do $300,000 in preventative maintenance when on the forums, don't. I love my car but I only paid $3,000 for mine had I done everything the forum members suggested I would've spent another $3,000 in repairs. Keep up on your plugs and coils. If I'm not mistaken the 328s and 325s have transmissions made by GM and no one cares for them, so wait for a 330. I'm sure I'll get corrected on the transmissions but whatevs enjoy the plethora of links.

A Bosche fuel pump from Amazon is $130 and the gasket is $20.

Pump:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZJE9C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Gasket:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0054JTTFO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The exact fuel filter $60:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006Q7HDII/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

OEM plugs are $35, again Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DERDU44/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

DISA rebuild kit is $80 (DO THIS ONE ASAP, It's the one thing I always tell people, it'll prevent a steel pin from falling into a cylinder and ruining your engine) I bought mine from G.A.S. German Auto Sport I think. I love their warranty, if my DISA fails they'll give me that $80 towards one of their DISA units, like $400

Coolant system:
Expansion tank - $30 (Amazon) - known as the most likely failure

Radiator -$150 (AutoZone)
Lower radiator hose - $30 (Advance)

Temp sensor in lower hose - $8 (Amazon)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FU9H9PO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Upper radiator hose - $30 (AutoZone)
Water pump - $55 (AutoZone)
Thermostat - $55 (AutoZone)

Transmission intercooler thermostat - $16 (Amazon)

https://www.amazon.com/Orion-Cooler-Expansion-Thermostat-17111437362/dp/B074K8SXL8/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522204403&sr=1-2-fkmr1&keywords=e46+transmission+intercooler+thermostat

I was able to remove the radiator without being about to tell the water pump had an issue. Installed the new radiator, gave my fan a wiggle and then knew I had replaced two hoses, an expansion tank, and a radiator for nothing. Cost: confidence as myself as a mechanic and an engineer and $295 (didn't replace the temp sensor or thermostat, and I was lucky enough to reuse the transmission intercooler thermostat!!!!!!11!1!!11!!)


I paid $90 for a pack of coils 40,000 miles ago. The entire CCV is $55, you guessed it, Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/11617501566-11611432559-11617504535-11157532649-11617504536/dp/B00I3RBDDK/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522204499&sr=1-2&keywords=e46+CCV


One pair of HID headlights - $28
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GRTEMCO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1



For two years of ownership starting at 153,000 miles and currently at 197,000, 8 months of driving 110 miles a day, five days a week, and now I drive 800 miles a week.

The hardest on this list are the fuel filter (unless you have access to a lift, I hate putting my car on stands) and the CCV, to replace the CCV you have to remove the intake manifold.

The DISA takes 10 minutes if you take the time to drink a beer MAKE SURE YOU BUY A KIT THAT INCLUDES A NEW GASKET

If you have problems head to here or the forums, I feel like I've written a book, but I spent forever tracking a couple issues only to find out it was the plugs. Check the plugs first.




Essential tools:

OBD2 WIFI adapter: $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W0SDLRY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Regular socket set: $73

https://www.amazon.com/Kobalt-64-piece-Standard-metric-Mechanics/dp/B00GR8WEDU/ref=sr_1_24?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1522203667&sr=1-24&keywords=Kobalt+Socket+set

(5mm to 16mm or so, and includes bits you'll really want a wide flathead, Torx 25 or 30 for the cabin air filter mounting screws, and Philips, double check what this one includes)


Torque wrench: $35
https://www.amazon.com/Tacklife-Calibrated-13-6-108-5Nm-Certification-Extension/dp/B073VLDLQR/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1522203362&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=torque+wrench&psc=1


6”-8" Socket extension: $10
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-4966-8-Inch-Extension-3-Piece/dp/B000NW85F2/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1522203436&sr=1-6&keywords=8%22+socket+extension


Fan removal tool set - $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTV8EO4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc150=1


Including all tools that's $850 Hope this helps, the car is really easy to work on, I enjoy driving it. One last piece of advice never short trip your car, especially in cold weather, you could fill the CCV with mayo and it could lead to hydrolocking/self destruction of the engine. If you live South of Pennsylvania you shouldn't have to worry too much, some people put an ounce or so of Seafoam into the CCV a month. You don't need to follow these links to the tee but they should help.

Oh, I completely understand passing on that car. Sounds like nothing was maintained.

Still, get one, they are very very useful, and cheap. Only $13 for an Android BT reader on Amazon - $18 if you need iOS. If you have Android, download Torque ($5 for paid version, but even free is very good.)

That under $25 set will have more features than the $200-$400+ readers still sold in autostores... and are more up to date, and can easily interface with the web for more code information.

Feeler gauges for measuring the thickness of a gap between two things.

https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25025-Blade-Master-Feeler/dp/B000BYGIR4

Pioneer Bluetooth media receiver Play music, make hands free calls, Pandora

Bluetooth OBD clear codes, vehicle diagnostics, avg speed, fuel economy

I'll go first, personally any type of wireless OBDII blutooth device that links with a smart phone. Troubleshoot check engine and get live stats of how your car is running. Not to mention it's usually cheaper than a full blown code reader.


https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1479145100&sr=1-4&keywords=obdii+bluetooth

"My parents owe me some money." ಠ_ಠ

Most bang for buck:

1. Nexus 5 + one year of t-mobile's $30 5GB data plan
   
2. Leatherman multitool
   
3. Have a car? OBDII scan tool + Torque app for Android

Hey! I started much where you are and had no real way of learning from someone else on what to buy, what to look for, etc. etc. I've got a few tips for you!

​

When I first started wrenching, I thought I needed air tools. Every mechanic's shop has airtools. Cars are big and mechanical, and it made sense that I'd need something beefy to pull them apart. TOTALLY FALSE. I'll let you know that 90% of my tools are handtools from harbor freight and I probably spent no more than $200 on the collection. Here's a rundown of my most used/invaluable tools:

• 3/8" drive socket wrench from harbor freight. Composite handle, great mechanism, very comfortable, very light. I have a nice set of kobalt socket wrenches. They don't shine a light on this bad boy in my experience. I have and use 2 pretty regularly. You might be able to get away with just an adjustable wrench.
  
• Impact sockets. Little bit beefier than regular sockets, but I very rarely come across an instance when these are not the answer.
  
• Color coded deep sockets. When the impacts aren't the answer, these are. I've only got a set of metric, and haven't needed to buy the SAE set yet. I won't buy them until I need them. The color coding seems trivial, but is HUGE when you're sick and tired of being under the car, just want to finish since the sun went down and your tired. Going for the blue socket is much easier than sliding around in relative dark trying every socket to see if it's right. That fucking sucks.
  
• Universal joints. Not 100% necessary, so don't buy them until you need them, but holy hell do they make life easier.
  
• Extensions. Access is everything when it comes to wrenching. These ones wobble, you might not like that. Try them in the store. Poking 18" of extension up into a crevice is all fun and games until your socket starts flopping around and you can't control it. Double entendre. The alternative are non-wobbling extensions. I have the non-wobbly ones. They've worked totally fine and I don't find that I need the wobble ones.
  
• Adapters to make all your junk work together.
  
• Breaker bar. When your arms fail you, this won't. Don't go for the cheapest. I did and snapped off the end. Totally fucked myself in my work parking lot.
  
• Torque wrench. Almost the most expensive tool in my arsenal. Torque specs are very important. This wrench is cheap as fuck, and people say it's a comparable buy to the snap on wrench. I love mine to death.
  
• Adjustable wrench Like having an entire socket wrench set in one single tool. More elbow grease, but very convenient.
  
• Body panel pry bars. You will need these for general "gentle" prying on body panel snaps. Where a screwdriver would mess up the paint, these are surprisingly effective.
  
• My crown jewel: The impact driver. This is my singularly most used tool. Get this with a set of bits, and you'll be unstoppable. Of course it's not necessary, but it makes 2 minutes of wrenching a 2 second affair. Add it up and it saves a lot of time. These and These are what make my impact driver the best tool in my arsenal.
  
• JACK STANDS. Cars are heavy, make sure it's safely supported and you'll be confident every time you go under your car.
  
• Jack to actually get your car up.
  
• Plywood squares to put under your jack stands, and jack. Jackstands have small feet that sink in grass and asphalt. Plywood stops them from sinking
  
• PB Blaster, or penetrating oil. This stuff will pay for itself the first time you use it. Loosens the bullshittiest of bullshit.
  
• OBD2 reader This bad boy combined with a $10 app on your phone (DashCommand) will let you communicate with your car's computer. I can read codes, clear codes, see voltage, and boost and vacuum pressures. I can see RPMs, engine timing, rich/lean conditions and any other shit that I'll never need to see. Troubleshooting is 100 times easier with this. Most auto stores will read codes for free, but they won't clear them.
  
  And that's basically it. Lift your car on level ground. Use jackstands. "Getting to" the actual issue is always like 80% of the work. The work itself is pretty easy generally. Youtube and reddit ( r/mechanicadvice, r/cars, and r/justrolledintotheshop ) are invaluable resources. These people know their shit and they know yours too. PB Blaster is magic oil. If something goes wrong, get it on video for the experts to see and hear instead of describing a skrrt skrrt sound when you're turning left then right, you know? Get cheap tools to start with. When they break, you know that you use them enough to justify better ones. If I've told you not to skimp somewhere, it's because I've skimped there before and I don't want you sitting there defeated. Buy tools as you need them. Start basic, then expand. It's not called a collection because you bought them all at the same time from the same place.
  
  ​
  
  I got my start by changing my oil. Then my brakes. Then replacing this, then that, and now I'd feel comfortable working on a brand new vehicle. I'm no expert either. Just casual stuff. Building confidence is a big part of it. I wish you luck my man. If you ever need anything, let me know and if I don't have the answer, I'll find it for you.
  
  ​
  
  To clarify. The tools I listed above are 99% of what I use.

Look easily repairable.

Go to AutoZOne / ORiley or whateve rbox store auto store you have nearby and but a plug kit.

https://smile.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K

Dig out whatever it is, ream the hole with tool in kit, insert plug with other tool, cut off excess plug material.

use the ford spark plug puller tool...http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-LIS65600-Broken-Remover-Engines/dp/B00267PZUK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412615698&sr=8-1&keywords=ford+f150+spark+plug+removal+tool

I use this one. It works in a similar fashion as yours does. I can't imagine trying to change the oil in my Subaru (or many other vehicles really) without one of these.

Ok, after four months with the car, here goes...

​

Charging

• Wall Connector $500. Not necessary but I'd recommend biting the bullet before taking delivery, so you can keep the mobile charger in the car. The electrical work took 2 hours of time, at $130/hr. I highly recommend installing a dedicated 60-amp breaker and an efficient gauge wire which will give you 45 mi/hr of charge.
  
• Charging Adapters $35. Car comes with the 5-15 and 14-50. I strongly recommend buying the 5-20. If you plan to charge at someone else's house on a roadtrip, ask them to send you a picture of their dryer plug. So far, I've needed the 10-30 and 14-30.
  
• NEMA 5-15P to 5-20R Adapter $20. Strongly recommended in combo with Tesla's 5-20 adapter to "cheat" a 16-amp charge (33% faster charging). Must-watch this video, and must-read here, here, here, and here.
  
  Tesla OEM
  
  
• Cargo Mats for Frunk & Trunk $70 & $130. Must-have some sort of trunk mat, since the trunk material is generally poor quality for heavy use.
  
• Front Sunshade $75. Living in Florida, this is a must-have if you dont plan on tinting the top glass panel. The "front" is acutally the middle of the three glass panels, not the windshield.
  
• Paint Repair Kit $55. Nice to have so you're ready for rock chips. So far I've had one that made it through the black paint and silver primer.
  
  Detailing
  
  
• Aero Cosmetics Complete Car Kit $40. Highly recommended. Pricey but saves time for amazing results. Cheaper and better quality than CarGuys products. I liked it so much that I ended up buying this also.
  
• Invisible Glass Spray Cleaner $4. Recommended that you have some glass cleaner that's not Windex. This brand is one of the best.
  
• Wash Mitt 2-pack $16. Highly recommended compared to a wet rag.
  
• Tire and Wheel Brush $8. It's important to segregate parts you use on wheels from parts you use on paint. This product is solid.
  
• Grit Guard $8. Totally optional. Helps separate dirt in the bucket when cleaning. You'll see a difference in the water.
  
  Third-Party
  
  
• Tough-Pro Interior Mats $80. My opinion is that all-weather mats are a must-have. The stock mats are crappy, and all-weather mats make cleaning easier. These are cheaper than Tesla's all-weather mats. I'm happy with them but I'd buy the OEM Tesla ones if I could do it again.
  
• Upgraded White LED Lights $13-$77. Must-have for the trunk. Optional for others. I replaced all 7 non-footwell. Easy install with a credit card. As a bonus, I have one left over, so PM me if you want it.
  
• Kenriko Matte Wrap for Center Console $30. Must-have. Watch his install videos first. Customer service is excellent if you screw up the install like I did. The matte black matches the black leather interior perfectly. I'm sure the matte white is nice too.
  
• Pet Cover for Trunk $45. I couldn't find anything better for driving my dogs, so I use this one with the back seats down, along with Tesla's rubber trunk mat. I'd say my setup prevents 90% of dog wear, and keeps any dog smell to a minimum.
  
• Nomad Wireless Charger $130. Nice to have. Not available until end of November, but battery is integrated unlike the comeptitor's.
  
• Rubber Cupholder Liners $25. Optional, helps with cleaning.
  
• Drop Stop $20. Optional, makes life easier.
  
• Air Compressor $25. Optional but recommended. Look for one with automatic shutoff.
  
• Tire Plug Kit $8. If you're handy, this is a cheap solution to be ready for a flat. If you're not handy, get Tesla's tire repair kit.
  
• Card Holder $5. Optional. Keep in your center console so valet has a way to hang your card key.

>It is normally an $80 minimum charge at a shop to get your codes pulled, and it only takes a second.

Or you can buy a reader for $20.

This is the one I have, a couple more bucks but works great. The app for your phone (Android for me, it's called Torque) is $5.

An actual mechanic would probably have some super fancy diagnostic tool, but you can buy a personal OBDII that bluetooths to your phone really well for like $20 on Amazon

If your car is 1996 or later, you should have an ODB2 port (with some exceptions, google your specific car). The port is usually somewhere under the the dash on the driver side, but a quick google search will tell your where yours is for your car. It looks something like this.

I have used this bluetooth version to hook up to my car, and paired it with my android phone. Take a look at the responses to this comment for the various apps that know how to use the data. I liked Torque, personally.

The CX-7 turbo has a smaller compressor wheel as well as a smaller compressor wheel housing. This gives you a better low-end torque curve as well as faster spool-up and throttle response. This sort of turbo brings the torque needed for a small SUV with a turbo. The Speed3/6 K04 has a slightly larger compressor wheel and housing, which leads to higher top-end boost translating to more top-end power while sacrificing low end torque and response.

Typically, all the aftermarket turbos are listed as fitting the Speed3/6, CX-7 becuase they are all bolt-in replacements. The problem is if you get a CX-7 turbo, it'll still fit, but your power band WILL change, just like you're describing.

For a short-term problem solver, I might suggest getting a Bluetooth OBD-II scanner and looking at your boost levels. No, it's not the best solution for logging, but it'll do what you need it to. I know my speed3 hits max boost between 3500-3750 RPM; being ~15psi in gears 3 & 4. Why don't you try a 3rd gear pull and see where the motor hits max boost, what that max boost number is, and what RPM it's hit at? This is honestly the only thing I can think of with respect to diagnosing on the cheap, without an AP or pulling the turbo. You may also want to ask the mechanic again for the OEM serial number of the replacement they put in, and compare it to the CX7 vs. Speed3/6 turbos.

The stock MS3/MS6 K04 is typically serialized as K0422-881/882.
The stock CX-7 K04 is serialized as K0422-582.

I have a scanner so that when my check engine light turns on, I can see exactly why. The one I have is bluetooth and connects to an app on my phone.

Scanner: http://amzn.com/B005NLQAHS
App: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque

Id start with something line this starter set, a 3/8 breaker bar, 1/2 breaker bar, a Decent torque wrench, a plier set, vice grips, channel locks, adjustable wrench, screw driver set, a multimeter, decent scan tool, a jack, a funnell some drain pans from walmart, pb blaster, jack stands and make some wheel chocks. I'm sure I'm missing something pertinent, but remember you can rent some tools at your local parts store for free with a deposit so check to see what they rent before you buy. Also buy the remainder of the tools as you need them, its tough buying a lot of tools at once especially once you develop an affinity for some quality tools. A lot of the youtube guys have videos on what they use they most, but what I've listed should cover most maintenance tasks for your car.

If you got a "Check engine" light on, and you want to know what it means but dont want to drop it off at a pricey mechanic just for a diagnosis and potentially expensive repair, head over to amazon and pick up one of these blue tooth OBD2 scanners. That ones for android(I have it, works great), this one works for iphone and android.

That plus a typically free app like "Torque" let you find out the error codes your car is throwing out(and all other kind of basic diagnostic stuff), so you can google it and see if its something you need to fix right away, could easily fix yourself(with youtube), or if its just a minor problem you dont need to worry about yet.

And if you do take it to the shop, you can probably save them some time(and thus money for yourself), and being more informed, keep yourself from being taken for a ride.

If your car is 1996 or newer it should have a port for these(typically under the steering wheel above the pedals), save yourself some anxiety about that new warning light that just showed up.

It looks like you can also buy them at Walmart but if you have an iPhone, it looks like they’re slightly more expensive, but worth it the cool thing about these is that you can also monitor RPMS and engine heat and, if you get a check engine light, it’ll give you a “code” and you can just google it and it’ll tell you what exactly is causing your car to throw a check engine light

I bought a car from the auto auction in the late 90's (CAAG in Surrey). Back then it was a risk v reward thing as you're never sure exactly what you're getting. You can browse the cars beforehand, start them up but they are packed in so tight you can't really drive them.

Plenty of deals to be had but its largely influenced by how popular it is that day. Best times is low season (Oct-Feb), and if it's raining. Mid week was better deals than weekends.

To judge prices, ignore blue book; Check Craigslist. Craiglist is the market.

Buy an ODB2 sensor to check diagnostics. (Depending on how old the car is, it may not work). Before every auction the auctioneer will call out any declarations and it will be on a big board (out of province, salvage, not legal etc)

The atmosphere is hectic and crazy and confusing and exciting, but once you've got a couple of times and see how it goes its not bad at all. If you want to bid on a car, have a price in mind and put your hand up if the price is right. An auction worker will come over to you and call the bids out for you so you're not confused by all the hand signals and yelling. If there is a reserve price on the car and you don't meet it, you can negotiate on the spot with the seller (standing near the auctioneer) if they are willing to take less than the reserve.

Try not to feel intimidated or bullied. Get a price in your mind and work with that.

Last note: You're going to have to settle price and insurance quickly, but they do have a broker on site to do transfers/reg/taxes

Hopefully this helps. My experience is close to 20 years old, but I spent a TON of time at the auction place and got a real good feel for how it worked at that time.

Better than burns. Having said that this tool completely negates most trouble with too tight filters https://www.amazon.ca/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8. It'll even hold the filter right enough that you can screw it on most of the way.

> way up high behind the engine

so in a spot where you cant get to with a big ole honken tool like this one? and then get another arm up there to tighten it onto the filter?

id suggest looking at amazon for different oil filter wrenches. there are some really nice ones that, between a couple of them, will make any oil filter a breeze.

the 2 i rely on are this one for filters you can only access the side of:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FEPE76/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and (similar to) this on when you can only access the end(paired with a stubby wrench:

https://smile.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8/ref=pd_sim_469_9?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0002SR4Q8&pd_rd_r=ade3720f-6a9b-11e9-aa29-13293a7f6817&pd_rd_w=O6bcd&pd_rd_wg=tO60d&pf_rd_p=90485860-83e9-4fd9-b838-b28a9b7fda30&pf_rd_r=BE5JF7BM1Z6JZ6F9SSN9&psc=1&refRID=BE5JF7BM1Z6JZ6F9SSN9

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1347298267&sr=1-1&keywords=oil+filter+wrench

If the battery is getting weak (especially in these colder temps), check the charging level of the alternator. If it's ok, pick up a battery charger that will automatically switch to float once reaching full charge. Throw the battery on there overnight.

Keep cold out of your gear. Like in hiking, being cold is worse than wet since it'll sap your energy. I wear a balaclava around my head and just picked up a fleece neck warmer to keep cold wind from entering my coat and helmet.

Pinlock visors are great at keeping your visor from fogging up if you wear a full face helmet.

Reflective tape on your helmet, bike and gear will add to your visibility.

Keep track of your tires and brakes. Give yourself 20 minutes to gear up and check the bike before you leave. You don't want to forget a piece of gear because you were in a rush.

Don't override your ability in lousy weather and know alternate, safer and slower routes if you need to get off the highway. It happened to me once in Skagit Valley when a rainstorm pushed me three lanes over (I shouldn't have been going so fast in the left lane) so I exited and took a really slow trip on some farming roads, then the old 99 highway all the way to Seattle.

Be aware and cautious, especially in the dark and wet around the unmindful cagers in this town, but have fun! These cold, sunny, dry days have been a blast to ride.

If there's a plug nearby, you might want to pick up a battery tender. This should monitor and keep a "float" charge on the battery.

Example: http://www.amazon.com/Deltran-Battery-Tender-021-0128-Charger/dp/B00068XCQU

There's a cheaper Jr version that might be more appropriate for you.

Also, your battery may need replacement anyway since deep discharges damage the battery chemistry.

In my area, at least, none of the shops will patch a tire. Fix it yourself.

Get yourself one of these. I've had the best luck with this kind of patch kit.
http://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-A-Tire-Plug-Kit/dp/B000ET525K

Pull the screw out, then shove the reamer into the hole to open it up a bit. Rough it up a bit.

Take one of the gummi worms, and put it through the hole in the plug insertion tool. Make sure it is centered. Put some rubber cement on it. RAM it in to the hole, making sure that you don't push the gummi worm all the way through. Pull the tool out. The worm should stay there.
Put 10 psi of air in the tire and let it sit for a bit. Trim the gummi worm down so that the bits that stick out are below the tread. After an hour or so, fill the tire. Check for leaks and repeat if necessary.

Edit: the patch kit doesn't have to be motorcycle specific. I bought a truck tire patch kit at the local Shuck's.

That's a reamer from a tire repair kit.

Here's one on Amazon.

They go even cheaper so long as you don't mind futzing with the port and cable. Bluetooth would be amazingly more convenient though.

Bluetooth OBDII readers are ~$10 on Amazon!

Combine one with an app like torque- lite version that reads codes and does the basics is free, pro is like $5 and has bells and whistles.

This way, as opposed to simply reading the codes, you can get real-time data directly from your car's ecu.

Shits amazing for ~$20. What you save in repairs by catching issues before they turn into expensive problems is amazing.

Standard emergency gear (triangles/flares, space blankets, water, etc)

Some decent USB charge ports

A USB jump start battery if you want the ability. Also useful for jumping the Tesla if your 12V battery dies (supposedly this problem is fixed).

No spare tire in the Model S, so you may want a Fix-a-flat kit (or pay $20 more for one with a Tesla logo on it). If you prefer no goo in your tire, an old school tire repair kit is also an option for punctures in the treadwall (not in the sidewall, unfortunately).

Lots of neat Tesla-specific accessories out there. Lighted front T, add-on coat hooks (if you care about their absence), dash cams, etc.

The official unofficial delivery checklist also has a bunch of good advice.

I just use my retired Galaxy Note 2 with a lightweight lollipop ROM (liquid smooth) and this


~ mount Only $10 and free one day shipping if you are a prime member. It won’t open any wider than a note 2 but it holds securely to both the phone and the dashboard even in this 0 degree weather outside right now. Wish I could leave my phone out in the cold too. I hate North Idaho.


~ Dashcam - I use Dailyroads Voyager It uses cyclic recording so it can keep overwriting and not using up too much space. It can run in the background while I use waze, music, OK Google, etc. You can also set it to save the video when it senses x amount of G forces. Or you can tap the screen at any time to save the video… It has tons of features and the shocking part is it’s free! Since work provides me with unlimited data tethering on my phone I also utilize it’s cloud backup feature.


~ OBD II - For car diagnostics reading I use BAFX OBD2 I was literally shocked at how easy this was to plug in and pair to my phone! For close to $25 I had tons of information about how my car is “feeling” right in front of me. I’ve only tested a few but I stuck with Dash Some of the things it tells me are engine temperature, engine load, speed, MPG, coolant temperature, RPM, air/fuel ratio… anyway, my favorite part of the app is how it keeps track of my trips.. locations, statistics, where I last parked. Love it.


Things I’m still working on are getting an inverter in my trunk to power a small/cheap router and raspberry pi plus small ssd so that in the case of theft my dashcam app could save to the ssd in my trunk to catch the filthy thief. Looks like there is enough room behind the plastic cover where they keep the tire changing tools to keep this equipment hidden from sight. If anyone has better ideas please let me know. Maybe someday I will impress a nice guy ………

bleed the system properly.

I can almost guarantee you have air in the system. if you're not noticing the level dropping.

to bleed the car properly watch this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUpXgAJ1gjU

you can get that funnel off amazon Lisle spill free funnel

you can certainly do it without that funnel but you'll be in for a messy/sticky job and you'll let fluid spill all over the damn place.

Amazon. Get a Bluetooth one, along with torque app. There's a bunch of vehicle specific apps too.

Android can be Bluetooth or WiFi, iPhone needs it to be a WiFi obd module.

This is the unit I use.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YQgtDbRWCVX9M

Hey all, I got a bunch of info from here and the forums, so I thought I would give back and drop a few links.

First is the roof rack. I think the rola roof rack is the best looking and ends up being one of the cheapest.

Next up is the cargo box. I thought getting one this long would look stupid, but it's way better than I imagined. The rocketbox 11 is one of Thule's cheapest and big enough to fit my huge board in. No noticable drop in mpg, either - hovering barely above 33.

The backup camera is a fantastic upgrade. I followed this post and dug into the forums posted there. I would double check the apim codes because it's a tad dangerous and I didn't use the same exact codes as u/brbauer2 (I have the 2016 w/ sync 3). Shoutout, by the way, the album was super helpful. Also, the pins we inserted to the wiring harness didn't connect with the head unit, so I shredded a small amount of foil to bridge those connections.

Canying Car Trunk Handle Rear...

BAFX Products Bluetooth...

And finally, I like having my windows down in the rain, so I got them smoker vents.

Maybe someday I'll get that accessport/intercooler and a rear motor mount, but I'm loving it as it is!

You all bought awesome cars, thanks for the help, catch you later.

That really depends on the code and the vehicle. If you are outside of california just stop at any chain parts store when the light is on and get the code read (they'll do so for free). Get the actual code from them, not their diagnosis. You can also get a cheap bluetooth OBDII reader and the free torque app if you have an android phone or tablet. Then you can check your own codes.

On Amazon they have bluetooth scanners for Android. Runs about 25 bucks. Best thing ever, plus you can possibly pill real time info depending on your car, an added plus to trouble shooting. This is the one I bought. There are some cheaper now though! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_OfK5wbCAZE7MG

Grab an OBDII reader, for ~$20. I've had this one for several years. Put Torque Pro on your device and go forth and diagnose. You can get a dedicated handheld tool, but I prefer the features of using Torque. Some cool addins available for it too.

Always remember to reset the oil life and tpms(if the light is on). I assume you will have a site like mitchells or alldata where you can look up the procedures for these. When mounting tires watch out for tpms its no fun having to replace a sensor because you broke it. If you get free time shadow other techs if they don't mind you doing that, its a good way to pick up different tips/tricks that you may need and it shows you want to move up in the company. And if you are ever in doubt about something call someone over for a quick double check before it goes out the door. Get one of these when you run into some Subarus you'll know why I said to get it. And don't go all hercules on the oil filters it is very annoying when you try and take it off the next time.

just get a plug kit: https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K

And air pump: https://www.amazon.com/Cartman-compressor-Portable-Inflator-Storage/dp/B00OZHRS36/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1473685575&sr=1-6&keywords=12v+air+compressor&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A2911368011%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_three_browse-bin%3A5648814011%2Cp_72%3A1248861011

You'll be better off.

Just buy another bike at this point. There's no fixing that.

There are two ways to fix a puncture: plug or patch. A patch is generally done at a shop and involves removing the tire from the wheel, applying a patch to the inside of the tire, and remounting the tire. This is definitely the strongest fix.

Since this is the DIY subreddit, you're probably interested in the second method, which is the plug.

I have plugged many tires myself, and I've never had one fail, even after years and thousands of miles.

1. Get a kit like this. They're sold all over- Walmart, auto parts stores, etc. Make sure you get the kit that includes a tube of rubber cement. The kits all have a reaming tool, a plug tool, and a number of plugs. The plugs are usually sealed in plastic and look like strips of rubber.
   
2. Jack the car up and remove the leaking tire. In a pinch you can install a plug while the tire is still on the car, but the tire still needs to be up in the air. Note that you should NEVER crawl under a car that is only supported with a jack, so only do this if you can reach the puncture without getting underneath the car.
   
3. Using pliers or whatever, remove the screw that is stuck in the tire.
   
4. Use the reaming tool from the kit to rough up the hole left by the screw. Just do a couple of push/pull strokes with the tool to round out the puncture. This ensures the plug will seal correctly.
   
5. Take one of the plug strips and thread it into the plug tool, like you're threading a needle. Make sure there is equal amount of plug on either side.
   
6. Coat the plug with some rubber cement.
   
7. This is the only tricky part. You want to push the end of the plug tool into the puncture until only about 1/4" of plug material is sticking out, then quickly remove the plug tool. The plug will remain in the hole, and your puncture is fixed. Just go slow, and don't push the plug all the way in or you'll lose it inside the tire.
   
   It's super easy to do and a great DIY skill to have. Recently my friend was stuck with a flat tire, and the lug nuts were torqued on so tight we couldn't get the tire off to put on the spare. Since I had my plug kit and 12V air compressor, I plugged the leak with the tire on, filled the tire back up, and he was on his way 10 minutes later.
   
   Hope this helps.
   

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K

Buy an OBD-II reader. You can pick one up from amazon.com or a local shop for about $20. Plug it in and download the error codes.

This is the one I have, works fine on my 996tt and ML500.

More like $15. Here and Here

I am doing the same thing in my 2010 Ford Escape. I ordered a double din dash kit off amazon, made the hole a tad bit bigger and i already fiberglassed the tray that i will use to slide it in and out of.


My plan is just like yours, torque, nav, music, etc. I already have a Turtle Beach USB Audio sound card, for usb OTG, where a powered USB hub will be used for the sound card and the 64gb usb stick. (Works great btw.).


The only issue I have right now is power, while its not important, especially when using a powered USB hub, I still feel comfortable with it charging while its in my car. So the project is on standby until the pogo pinout gets figured out (should know as soon as the official dock launches), and then go from there.


So far here is my parts list:


Charger: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004I44CHQ/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00

USB Audio: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036VO4X4/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00

Bluetooth OBD2: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00

Hey guys I ordered them online from a parts place in Texas. Link here:

https://www.nissaninfinitiparts.com

I did both sides in the front. $58 each. I think about $13 to ship. The guys were really friendly and helpful, called me after I placed the order to confirm the parts and they showed up on time. The parts and shipping were cheaper getting them from Texas than getting them here in Chicago.

I also used these tools:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HNMLQAG/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Plenty of videos on popping the old ones out on YouTube. Took about 10 minutes.

Get one of these for $20 on Amazon and this app from Google Play (probably an apple version available too) and you're good to go.

I have this thing: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It works well with my car and torque, but my car is older than your car.

La idea de conectar un gadget al puerto OBD2 no es nueva. Ya existen en el mercado escáneres que se conectan a Android o IOS y muestran mucha más información que los litros de combustible.
http://www.amazon.com/BlueDriver-Bluetooth-Professional-iPhone-Android/dp/B00652G4TS/ref=sr_1_14?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1463375489&sr=1-14&keywords=obd2+scanner

There's a smaller sized blue OBD2 plug in on Amazon it goes along the lines of "panlong" or something, it's only like $10-15, works fine in my Lexus and Mercedes, it's able to clear errors and stuff, real-time info works well. And it's really low profile unlike those other adapters so if it sticks straight into the foot well it won't bother you



Edit: it's $11

Works fantastic with torque pro
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PJPHEBO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_o..cBbK4QXZ3R

I disagree. I actually am happy with the current systems in modern (minus the dash board touchscreens. Fucking hate those things, just give me knobs and buttons!). In my opinion they are easier to work on. Hear me out.

I was broke through my 20’s, so whenever I had car trouble it was either “fix it myself, or don’t have a car”. I’m not a mechanic, but I’ve learned a thing or two about car repairs. Even though I can afford it now, I still fix my own car because I’m now aware of how much mechanics gouge people.

I can’t speak for all the cars, but I just like the way components were placed in my car. I drive a current model Grand Cherokee and everything is just so clean, spacious, and well organized under the hood. The difference between my modern car compared to my older cars is kind of like this. I can access major components much easier now that it’s not a cramped mess down there anymore.

With computers running everything they possibly can though, there is a downside. The thing people like to complain about is how a computer can fail and kill the car. A dealership will try to charge you well over $1000 dollars to “fix” a computer, but you can just order a new computer online for like $200 and replace it yourself (it’s easier to replace than any mechanical component). I actually like the computer systems because they do a fantastic job of monitoring all kinds of things making preventive maintenance a breeze. Playing with this thing has been very fun. Buy one and save yourself the $100 your dealer mechanic would’ve charged you for just to tell you what’s wrong.

Also in general, today’s cars are better than ever in general. Most of them are built to last longer now. Also, the basic major components are still the same (axles, exhaust, brakes, differential, underbody stuff) and are no more or less harder to work on now than in the past.

Sorry this kinda became a small essay, I hope it's not too verbose but there's a lot of ground to cover if you're just starting out.

I got kinda shafted started out since I had a pretty damn oxidized, single-stage red Miata as well as a pretty-ok silver 2015 Subaru, so I kinda had to build two kits at a time since I didn't want to cross-contaminate my systems. I ended up getting a bunch of orange and white Lake Country CCS foam pads along with playing around with some Meguiars foam cutting pads for the Miata and the 5" Meguiars Microfiber Correction Kit for the Subaru and anything else that's clear coated.

I'm using the same Harbor Freight DA, but with the 5" backing plate that comes with the Meguiars kit. If you don't get the Meguiars kit, at the very least you need to order a new backing plate for Harbor Freight DA because the one that comes with it is well-known for being really shitty. I prefer using a 5" system as it fits a better into tighter spots and gives you noticeably more correction power over a 6" at very little perceived loss of coverage efficiency because of the smaller size.

Of note: I've only had poor experiences with microfiber pads on single-stage since they seem to clog up so fast, but they've been great on clear coat. Most people won't face this issue, but I figured I'd put it out there.

Pair whatever kit you build/get with the 36-pack of microfibers from Costco and you'll be in business in no time.

I did pick up a 6.5" Lake Country CCS red wax/sealant pad since I like to apply Collinite 845 to everything I care about. I intentionally picked an oversized pad for my backing plate because I'm only using my DA at the minimum speed possible (like 1.5 on the HF DA) to spread a thin layer of wax efficiently. If you crank up the speed by accident or out of curiosity, yes, the 6.5" pad does tend to get totally out of control in a hurry, so don't do that haha.

Don't forget your pad brush, or if you have an air compressor, you can use that to blow out your pads (Youtube it). Some method of cleaning pads is absolutely mandatory and for some reason, this is often overlooked or skipped by many people starting out.

Whatever you get, I like to have at least 2 cutting pads on hand and I'll make a conscious effort to switch halfway through the car, usually hood/driver's side for one and trunk/roof/passenger side for the other. I usually can get through a car with just one polishing pad but it's reassuring to have a backup on hand in case the pad explodes or I'm an idiot and set it down on the ground or something. I'm also kinda anal about cross-contamination of LSPs, so I now have a dedicated Lake Country red CCS pad for each LSP I use.

Finally, I know you're looking for advice on pads, but I ended up getting a bottle of the Meguiars DA Microfiber Polish since I prefer to lay down my own LSPs and the lifespan of the DA Finishing Wax was iffy, especially compared to the Powerlock+ and Collinite 845 combo that I use on cars I actually care about. The DA Finishing Wax is now reserved for my detailing side-hustle (which is currently helping fund putting a turbo in my Miata), since it saves quite a bit of time over separate polishing and waxing.

Measuring differences of less than 1 volt isn't easy without some kind of test equipment. Honestly, I can't think of anything that would be easier than buying an absurdly cheap digital multimeter and testing them one by one.

Don't worry bro. I got your back. I've had this for the last two years and it has saved me tons of money and trips to Autozone (mostly for family cars). Torque is also awesome and shows you all kinds of cool data.

Look into getting an OBD2 scanner that will connect to your phone. My preliminary research makes me think you can get your mileage from the computer that way. Plus, these things are incredibly handy to have when ever you get a check engine light.

Got one of these, it's great. http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS

Get an OBDII reader and the Torque app and see which code it is. Then look up the code and it'll tell you what happened.

Or a standalone OBDII reader.

Best $22 I've ever spent. Paired with the Torque Pro app. BAFX Products 34t5 Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool for Android Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0yrnybPDYCYCD

I had to buy mine on Amazon. BAFX products.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005NLQAHS?pc_redir=1409635450&robot_redir=1

It works with Torque. So far I have used it on a 1997 BMW 328i, a 2010 Ford E350, a 2004 Pontaic GTO and a 2008 Mercury Mountaineer. All while running Torque on a Galaxy S4.

I've used Torque (Lite) with this OBD2 reader: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS

Works pretty well for what I wanted (reading codes). I've not used it for anything other than that though.

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS

You do know there's a kit for that that costs like 30$ right

You have a blown head gasket.

I'm guessing the first mechanic that showed you the turkey baster looking thing was using this: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-75500-Combustion-Leak-Detector/dp/B0007ZDRUI

To check for combustion gasket leaks.

If you were a gallon low on anti freeze and you haven't been seeing it leak anywhere that means the head gasket has blown and is allowing anti freeze to get into the oil.

Your car has no heat because the antifreeze runs through the heater core to heat the car. Which you had none in the heater core.

The car is running hot from low coolant. Because it's all going where it's not supposed to be going.

Just buy a set of automotive gap gauges.

They should cost about $5. You want metric gauges that have come a spacing of 0.05mm and include a 0.5mm gap.

I prefer the flat blade style.

BTW these are better then buying a fencing gauge since you can test how good your gap is. I typically fence with points that trigger at 0.35mm.

Remember that the spec on an epee point is that it must not trigger at 0.5mm +/- 0.05mm so you need to actual set your points not to trigger at 0.45mm to be safe.

treadwear looks a little low but to your first point: a tire worm has no effect on the tire's function and if done properly (ie you cleaned the hole first with the included tool) itll last the lifespan of the tire.


Slime 1034-A T-Handle Tire Plug Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ET525K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1tyzCbDGD6YV7

My bead jack. Ever struggle to get a tire on or off? This is magic.

https://www.amazon.ca/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K

http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K

I had a Conti/CR-18 pairing that was truly awful. It ate tire levers for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Thankfully it rarely flatted. Sometimes I'd take it to a shop to get flats fixed just so I didn't have to deal with it. I'd service the bearings but somebody else can fix the flat at their usual rate thankyouverymuch. Mechanics complained. We got into discussions about rim sizes. It was all labeled 622. Anyway, that jack makes it easy. You'll have the tire back on in under a minute.

Some bike shops will have them for sale.

Just don't let the velominati see it.

This tire bead jack has saved me so much effort.

Or spend Less than $20 on a real scanner without risking frying your $2000 ECU. If you plan on doing to work yourself spend a little more and buy one that allows you to view live and freeze frame sensor data.

Probably with one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-LIS65600-Broken-Remover-Engines/dp/B00267PZUK

They break so frequently that there are special tools to deal with the issue.

you got some good replies... just want to be a little more specific. something like a battery tender is good to leave connected. it will cycle on and off to keep the battery charged... Trickle chargers are manual and push a constant amount of amps until you turn them off.

the manual type are still not obsolite... for one you can charge a battery quicker because you can choose the amperage to charge at. Another benefit is if you have a very discharged battery, the newer battery tender types will not charge it because it's measuring too low of voltage and is programed to assume it's damaged... the manual type, sometimes you can set it very low and charge it up enough to switch to back to the battery tender type.

Had a post like this awhile ago with more insight for those who care...

I guess I can repost my own post:

I do this kind of thing as a part time job for CDOT (Colorado Dept of Transportation) when I want extra money to buy something stupid, so I have some good insight as to what gets people stuck.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>An extra belt and a breaker bar big enough to move the tensioner.

I mean, I don't carry an extra belt, but I'm pretty good about checking wear on it every few weeks or so. However, a breaker bar is definitely definite definitely recommended. It's most useful for wheel lugs, but it'll work on a belt tensioner too.

>Spare hose clamp for if you blow a radiator hose off/ intake hose/ turbo hose/ whatever. They cost like nothing (literal cents), but when you need it you need it. You ain't going anywhere with no air intake/ turbo intake/ coolant hose.

>Bottle jack? instead of the stock scissor jack?

No you don't need a full size floor jack.

If you have a regular passenger car (like a 4 door car) the scissor jack will work fine. They are kind of tedious to jack up and down but it's for an emergency, not everyday use. The bottle jack is a good idea for large SUV, Trucks, and RVs. Make sure you have a base or something on it if you have any sort of lift. Also remember that you will have to jack up much further to install the inflated tire than you had to for the flat one.

Only other advice I have here is actually pull that jack out and figure out how to use it. They all gotta be different and some are like oragami in how this click into that, which slides onto that... Reading the user manual and deciphering the IKEA-esque pictures on the side of the road just adds frustration and stress to the already crappy situation.

>Fix-a-flat kit

Meh. A spare tire is the better option. Make sure you check it's inflated at least every couple months. It's very very common that people have a spare, but that its flat. It does you no good as a spare if it's flat. A tire plug kit a definitely a good thing though. If you do HAVE to use the fix a flat, prepare to have a tire shop guy charge you twice when they find it all over the wheel. It's a nightmare to clean off, and as others have said will ruin you TPMS sensor. Depending on the make/model of your car this could be another $35 to $100 you have to spend, in addition to a new tire.

>Lights! and flares

(Ignore the guy in the comments that said lights are only emergency vehicles. He has no idea what he's talking about)

For an emergency kit, flares are better since they don't require batteries (that you will forget to change/ charge). However, lots of road flares last 30 - 60 minutes. It should take you 20 to change a flat. Be careful with the flares as many types drip as they burn. Don't light yourself or the side of the road on fire. I know you're thinking "well duh" but it happens every year in CO where I live. Someone lights the brush on fire near the highway cause they put flares out and got to fixing their car and not paying attention.

That said, you can get LED road flares that are bright and really good at attracting attention. Look up the laws in your area. Some places restrict the color you can use. Amber (orange) is usually a pretty safe color to choose. If you can get on that has more than one color, it's better. Monochromatic light doesn't give people good depth perception. Avoid as much as possible bright white strobes facing rearward. All you're going to do is blind the people you are trying not to get hit by.

> Screwdriver set with misc bits

Like others have said, this won't be super useful for your car, but for various other tasks it can be a huge time/ money/ aggravation saver to just have basic tools for random things. Ever tried to get a hose clamp off with just your fingers? You just have to remember to put those tools back in the kit. You don't need Snap Off for this as they likely won't get used that much. Don't get the cheapest ones at Harbor Freight either. Get the " pittburgh professional" ones.

> Socket set?

You can get the set if you want to, but at a minimum get the socket that fits your lugs. Get the drive size that fits the breaker bar you got from above (likely 1/2"). When I do this for work I had a cordless impact driver which was awesome, but a breaker bar doesn't require you to remember to charge batteries, and I haven't found anyone that just wasn't strong enough to use one. A breaker bar is like $15. Cordless impact driver powerful enough is like $250+.

>Glass Breaker/ Hammer

Honestly, you'd be better off with a spring loaded center punch. You have to have room to swing the hammer, and some people (elderly, children) just don't have the strength to hit the window hard enough. With the center punch, you just touch it to the glass and push until it clicks. Many cops and firefighters use these as a means to get you out. If you go this route, have a seat belt cutter, pocket knife, something...

>Fire Extinguisher

It's better if you mount this somewhere where it wont get buried. My favorite place is honestly the trunk lid or right in front of the taillight area in a car, under one of the seats for a SUV or truck (if you can easily flip it up). Imagine yourself suddenly panicking and thinking holy goddamn s**t my car is on fire, and scrambling to get to your extinguisher. Put it somewhere you can scramble to easy. If it takes longer than 10 seconds, its not accessible enough.

• Basic first aid kit. useful for everything. Make sure if you use it, restock it.
  
  > A little portable air compressor
  
  can really help if you get a flat and have a flat spare. Not necessary but sure is nice. You can use it for other things too (blowing up sports balls air mattresses etc...). They usually take FOREVER to fill a tire, but if you're stuck anyway...
  
  >Roll of duct tape (because obviously).
  
  I've used it to tape up bumpers after an accident so they can at least get off the road, to secure wiring, to a whole number of other things.
  
  >Spare fluids.
  
  Maybe. Gallon of coolant or distilled water at least. quart of oil, etc... This also depends on where you normally drive. If you never leave the city and a parts store is usually a couple blocks away then you don't have to bother. If you live outside the city and it would take you the entire afternoon to walk the next 15 miles to the store...well, plan accordingly.
  
  
  > Tire pressure gauge.
  
  To check main and spare tires. Don't trust the ones on the gas station pump (they get slammed around and scraped on the ground). I've seen them as inaccurate as 15 - 20 p.s.i. off.
  
  > Jumper cables.
  
  Better yet, your own jump pack.. Jumper cables are only useful if someone else is there to rescue you.
  
  > A tow strap
  
  is kinda nice, but if you're stuck and there's nobody else around it won't help you (unless you have a winch/ come-along). Nothing wrong with having one handy in case someone comes along though.
  
  
  > Tire chains.
  
  Don't know where you live but in CO there is actually a new (ish) chain law for passenger vehicles. When it's in effect you are supposed to have chains (or alternative traction device) in place. It's not just for truckers anymore. I take them out in the summer.
  
  > A shaker siphon
  
  Makes transferring fuel way way way way way less infuriating than dealing with the stupid friggin gas cans you have to buy nowadays. All the silly safeties and valves, it's like playing goddamn BopIt. They also work for coolant and washer fluid too, not that you would be dumping gallons of washer fluid... How to use it I don't carry a fuel container in my truck with me, but FYI it's illegal (in the US at least) to transport fuel in anything other than an approved fuel container. I doubt you'll get in trouble, just something to consider.

I love this tire bead jack. It only gets used about 3-5 times a year for changing flats and switching from snow tires to summer tires, but with super tight beads on my Schwalbes, it is a necessity.

https://www.amazon.ca/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K

[I bought one of these - it works great for clearing codes, while letting you google the problem] (http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS300-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B001LHVOVK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371376822&sr=8-1&keywords=obd+ii+scanner)

Here's the link, it's only $16

Autel MaxiScan MS300 CAN Diagnostic Scan Tool for OBDII Vehicles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001LHVOVK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-y7lzb8ETFZ5Y

I'd like to add

1. youtube. There is a video for just about everything. (If nothing else you'll see how easy...or how ridiculously hard it is.
   
   
   
2. $20 engine code reader
   
   all 1996 (IIRC) or later cars must have easy access to the onbaord computer too, usually down by your feet.
   
   This $20 device plus google enables you to figure out the problem and if you can handle it yourself.

Buy this tool before you even start a plug change on a ford 5.4

www.amazon.com/dp/B00267PZUK/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_RPTjub1GBHJJJ

They literally make a special tool just for these spark plugs.

Lisle (LIS65600) Broken Spark Plug Remover for Ford Triton 3 Valve Engines https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00267PZUK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zScYAbZ8CKP2V

An extractor tool that has sharp tapered threads which grab the broken piece, and is also threaded on the outside to act as a puller.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-LIS65600-Broken-Remover-Engines/dp/B00267PZUK

Get this

DA Polisher Griots $99 [Lifetime warranty]

Pads $45+25% off = 33.75

Get 3 orange, 2 white and 1 blue or whatever you want


Use BLK25 Coupon Code to get 25% off

Backing pad $10

Then the rest you can pick whatever, a polisher/compound, MFs or an ONR and dilute it 1:16 for quick detailing

The kit is fine, but you should take advantage of the sale that's going on right now.

Do either you or your wife have access to an Android device with Bluetooth? If so, you could pick up one of these and use this app to get the same (if not better) results. I have not done this, but one of my old coworkers has this setup on his toaster.

As far as installation goes, anything with an OBD interface is really simple to connect. The hard part is finding a place to mount the display.

• Get a Bluetooth OBDII adapter (https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497904775&sr=8-2&keywords=bluetooth+OBD),
  
• check the StateOfCharge on the battery with LeafSpy (get the paid version) on the app store.
  
• Me, I would look at 2015s since they have the newer battery.
  
• Preferably check if it has the QuickCharge package (should have a CHADMO connector in the front next to the normal charge port).
  
• Make sure they have the trickle charger.
  
• Assume if the dealer is not Nissan, they won't anything about the car.
  
• Check CarFax for maintenance.

OBD2 Bluetooth Adapter: Amazon Link

It is an ODB II port, I use it all the time with http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-diagnostics-compatible/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367981365&sr=8-1&keywords=odb2 and my android phone.

Several out there should work fine, but I got this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just remember you will need to install the custom PIDs (requiring the $5 purchase of the Torque Pro) for the Volt/Bolt, in order to use properly.

Go buy this code reader on Amazon and then buy the torque app. For like $26 you can see exactly what's wrong on your car and clear codes. So much easier than taking it in somewhere.

All scanners are not the same, some are better than others.

This is probably the best BIFL "value buy" scanner that works with all cars with obdII interface.

And the Torque app works great with it too.

I bought this bluetooth reader off Amazon and the Android application "torque".
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005NLQAHS/

Not only does it let me read and clear codes, but it gives me all sorts of real-time information which is cool but useless to me since I'm not tuning my car (vacuum/boost, rpm, timing advance, fuel flow, throttle position, intake temperature, etc.). Not bad for like $30 for the reader and the app.

How many mechanics do you think these have automated?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_b13uCr_c_x_1_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=T7VHGKBBT6ZKQACDWQDA&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=96a2bd3b-a407-52f5-a277-9f412bd445fd&pf_rd_i=15707381

>No one besides the auto industry actually has any clue what to do with the code(s) they get.

I'm not in the auto industry and I have a clue what to do with the codes I get. I use a [BlueDriver OBD II scan tool](BlueDriver Bluetooth Professional OBDII Scan Tool for iPhone, iPad & Android https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00652G4TS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JKrqyb0079C1B) to read MIL codes to aid me in repair and maintenance of my vehicles.

No kit.

Wrap

Tools

And a heat gun I already had. The only issue I'm having is that there's air slowly forming in the corners like where the vents are, if I had to do it again id probably put some glue on those spots.

Not a tip, but a warning: Get used to people cutting you off or trying to go around you at all costs. Had some douche pull the "go around" this morning, but I was trying to avoid an accident as some dickhead cut me off. Then I ended up flying by him at 85 mph just moments later.

Tip: Get an OBD2. It will help you figure out what certain indicators say on your dashboard along with other cool things.

You can also buy a Bluetooth OBD-II adapter for $10 (this one works great). Combine it with the Torque app and you have a powerful diagnostic tool that provides you with way more information than the scanners the auto parts stores provide.

Quick answer: Holding the button for 5 seconds forces the engine to turn off

Long, rambling and occasionally off topic answer: I have a manual gearbox ford with push button ignition.

When you're driving, the push button doesn't turn off the engine. It goes into a special mode above some minimum speed like 5mph. If you decide you do want to turn off the ignition while driving you can override the lock out by holding down the button for 5 seconds.

I don't recommend that you try it, because I don't know under what conditions the steering lock will kick in. I expect it won't engage until the car is stationary but I can't be sure without testing that so my advice is leave this stuff to idiots like me to find out. I've done that once before in a traditional ignition car (pulled the key out while driving and the steering lock engaged and I drove up the curb onto the verge before I could stop the car).

So anyway, I tried the power button thing the other day because I was curious, I pushed the clutch down so that I was freewheeling and pressed the button while rolling forwards at about 10mph and nothing happened. Then I held the button down for a few seconds and the engine cut out. I quickly pressed it again and the engine started up (I wasn't ready to test the steering lock thing on that occasion, maybe next time).

Specifically about the computer crashing: OK, so what I've described above relates to normal operating conditions. The car performing as intended. What about a software crash? I can contribute something on this as well although I'm not a vehicle designer.

I have a cheap Bluetooth diagnostic module, [like this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PJPHEBO). Not that exact one but something similar. Mine is modified with a switch to enable dedicated Ford diagnostics using some software called Forscan.

So the switch allows me to flip between standard OBDII wiring and custom Ford wiring. It's important that I flip the switch to the correct position when Forscan is sending out Ford commands or OBDII commands.

I flipped the switch during a session, sending signals down all the wrong wires. I was driving and attempting to diagnose an exhaust issue. Whatever I did, I did it at exactly the wrong moment because the car completely shit the bed.

The instrument panel crashed, all dials went to zero. All readings (mpg for example) went to dashed lines (--- mpg). "Shit. I hope this isn't permanent" I thought.

The engine went into limp mode (reduced power). I was pretty concerned so I pulled over. Basic controls were still working gas (with limited power), brakes, power steering. But nothing complicated was working. Cruise control gone. Even the power windows wouldn't auto close, manual close only.

Anyway, I'm an IT guy so I figured the old favourite "turn it off, and then back on again" was called for.

I pressed the stop/start button. Nothing. "SHIT" I couldn't turn the fucking car off, even stationary. "SHIT, FUCK". Then I remembered about holding down the button so I tried that and it worked!

It seems like Ford planned for the worst case scenario and wired a pretty low level override into the button. Even when the whole computer system had given up and shut down, the override still worked.

I used a wifi OBD2 adapter from Amazon to do it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WPW6BAE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

OBD scanners are super cheap now

http://www.amazon.com/OxGord-CAN-OBD-Scanner-Tool/dp/B011Q18D14/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1459128073&sr=1-1&keywords=obd+scanner

Amazon, there are a ton that have fantastic reviews and are only around $15.

I ordered this one, its for Android only, but it does everything you need when paired with the Torque app.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BY2CK32/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These work and are cheap

Harbor Freight carries them for about the same price if there is one your town

https://www.amazon.com/Oxgord-Scanner-Engine-Diagnostics-Direct/dp/B011Q18D14/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1497729915&sr=1-6&keywords=obd+scanner

personally i wouldnt speculate on what your check engine light might be caused by, any of the answers listed by other people could be the cause. Someone else has mentioned going to an auto parts store and getting the codes read, thats the best idea, or buy your own reader, they're $15 on Amazon it spits out a code you look it up by googling 'chevy malibu code xxxx' and it will tell you the issue, and the chevy forums can tell you whether you need to worry about it or not.

OBDII scanners cost 15 bucks and anyone can use them in combination with google, but I dont see that replacing automobile mechanics. You are paying for the labor, not the diagnosis unless you are a moron.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B011Q18D14/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1474547085&sr=1-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=obdii+scanner

You can get an ODB scanner dirt cheap on Amazon. It's 13 bucks and can save you a lot of money. With just YouTube and basic hand tools you can't get pretty far working on your own cars. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B011Q18D14/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1506661662&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=odb2+scanner&dpPl=1&dpID=51aoLjwYQFL&ref=plSrch

You can. Get a Bluetooth OBD-II module from Amazon for about $10 and you can monitor your engine on your smartphone.

This bluetooth based obd2 scanner (for $20) should work well with a phone app:
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01BY2CK32/. You'll probably find cheaper ones online as well.

A cheap obd ii scanner only costs $15 on amazon https://www.amazon.com/Oxgord-Scanner-Engine-Diagnostics-Direct/dp/B011Q18D14/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473974197&sr=8-1&keywords=odb+reader

That's more expensive that free, but its not a bad thing to have in a car.

Buy a $10 ODB2 scanner on Amazon, even if they've cleared the check engine light codes or disabled the light, the car will still report the codes and the failed tests.

https://www.amazon.com/Kitbest-Bluetooth-Scanner-Diagnostic-Warranty/dp/B01BY2CK32

My friend has this one and it seems to work well enough actually. I'm going to order one for myself right now. I have a magnetic phone mount that goes in my CD slot that works really well due to the layout in my car. I might use a spare phone to run as extra gauges and a music player. You could get a BlueDriver but those are about $100 though I hear they are really awesome. Though honestly for just $10 it can't hurt to at least try it out.

Edit: For $20 this one looks to be a bit nicer. I'm ordering one for myself right now. Thanks for reminding me. These are really handy tools and just plain fun to play around with.

http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS

This is what I use. I would stay away from the mini blue ones. I hear they have more issues not working on cars. The one above worked on a 99 chevy c1500, a 99 toyota camry, a 2002 protégé 5, a 2012 mazda speed 3, and a 2002 toyota tacoma.

I use torque pro as my app. It reads code plus a whole lot more. There is a version to check out for free as well, however it costs 5 dollars. Torque lite is the name of the free program.

Or just buy a $24 one and use Torque:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en

I got this. Works beautifully everytime paired with the Torque Pro app ($5).

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B005NLQAHS

here

BAFX Products 34t5 Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool for Android Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rg3qybQHNFFC8

I use this adapter for everything with torque. Has never failed to connect and is really fast when watching live data. I use the paid version of torque.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005NLQAHS?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Also buy the torque app. If you're curious about what you're engine is doing this is the best 30 bucks you can spend. Reads codes, clears them automatically, tells you when your engines warmed up, will display and log the output of your obd sensors.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have two of these. Work great. I have only used them in Ford vehicles though.

Get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SR4Q8

They’re sweet. You’re welcome.

It's an oil filter removal tool, like this. Best kind I've ever used. In the 7 years I've had it, there's only been one time it's not worked and I think that was because it was in a bad spot and I couldn't get straight on it.

Have the Subaru inspected by a good mechanic for head gasket leaks (internal and external leaking signs). A leakdown test is a good test for them to do, and ask if they can try the radiator hydrocarbon test as an option, also known as a Combustion Leak Detector test.

Also, find out when the timing belt & water pump replacement was done last -- if it hasn't then you'd have to plan on it soon as the replacement schedule is at 105k miles. If the belt snaps all your valves will bend = trashed motor.

Before you go paying the dealer to check into it further there are multiple things you can check yourself before you go jumping straight to a head gasket issue. First of all, it is highly unlikely you are dealing with a head gasket failure unless you've had issues in the past with overheating or are experiencing any problems, other than smell, while driving. At 50000km your head gasket is still very much brand new. Also there is not one simple way to diagnose a head gasket problem as there are multiple different ways one can fail. Head gaskets can commonly fail in 6 different ways causing completely different symptoms. As for you and your possible coolant issue, blown head gaskets are not always followed by coolant issues and coolant issues are not always caused by head gasket failures.

Coolant, power steering, and ATF all have similar smells when they burn. With very small amounts of any fluid it's unlikely you'll see any smoke whether it's from the engine bay or exhaust, but you can still smell it of course. Smoke becomes noticeable when larger amounts are being burnt off.

The best thing to so is jack the car up and get underneath and see of you can find any evidence of leaks that could be burning off the block or exhaust itself. Check around all hoses, coolers, water pump, thermostat housing, transmission lines, etc. Also try to see if you can smell anything from the actual exhaust when you're car is idling.

Also simply pull your dipstick and check the color of your oil. Certain head gasket failures can cause coolant to get into the oil making your oil turn milky, however, this can be caused by blown intake gaskets as well.

Without evidence of any leaks, next you'll want to rule out any blockage in any fluid lines including the radiator itself. Even being a 2009, it can be simply caused by broken down coolant burning off due to it losing it's temperature resistance. Service intervals call for a coolant flush every 5 years/100k miles. Yes, typically coolant has a longer life than that but there are exceptions. The low reservoir could be signs of your coolant being "worn out".
Nissan introduced "blue" coolant in 2009 and not all vehicles came with blue so your coolant is either blue or green. A quick color check can help determine how fresh it is but is a very rough test. If it's blue, it should still have a noticeable royal blue color to it. If it's green, it should be fairly bright almost neon looking. As coolant deteriorates it gets dark and murky, so any evidence of that and that could likely be where your issue lies. The best way to test your coolant is to check it's pH level. Any pH test strips will do and can be found at most drug stores. Good coolant has a pH level of 8-10 and you want to replace coolant before it drops below 7.0 as it starts to become corrosive to your cooling system. If this is the case, a simple coolant flush and thermostat replacement will solve your problems.

If no problems are still found you can do a hydrocarbon test to check for head gasket combustion leaks. Lisle makes a tester that can be had for $30 on Amazon and is very simple to use. It uses a special fluid that reacts and changes colors due to hydrocarbon vapors from your exhaust which can bleed into the coolant system due to certain head gasket failures.

Hopefully this will give you a place to start. If you find anything else or have any questions just let me know.

Get one of these.

Line up all the feelers and clamp it tight. Get a sharp edged file. File grooves into the edges of all of the feelers.

You don't have to go in deep.

Easy peasy and super cheap.

I actually don't know, but if you just need basic truss rod/action adjustments, I would recommend learning to do it yourself. It's really not that hard and the tools can be found at any local hardware store. Adjust in this order:

Truss Rod: You will need Feeler Gauges and a Capo on the first fret. press down with one had on the low E on the fret where the neck meets the body and stick a feeler gauge (.010") between the fret and the E string halfway between the first fret and the one you are pressing (usually 8th or 9th). Adjust the truss rod until the gap allows the gauge to slide in without pushing the string, and with no residual gap. The truss rod section of this page is good.

Bridge Height: You need a 6" Steel Ruler to measure the strings to your comfort, around 5/64's of an inch on the low E and 4/64's on the high e measured at the 17th fret. Adjust the bridge height with a screwdriver or allen wrenches as applicable.

Nut Height: You'll need your feeler gauges again and nut files that match the gauge of each string. You may be able to find a cheap alternative in a hardware store. As a rule of thumb, any tool branded as a luthier tool probably has a dirt cheap exact alternative at your local hardware store. Nuts should be filed down so that the string lays in halfway in the groove, halfway over the top. Bottom of the trough should be filed down to be .010" from the top of the first fret (use the feeler gauge).

Intonation: quoting from that fender link i posted above
>Set the pickup selector switch in the middle position, and turn the volume and tone controls to their maximum settings. Check tuning. Check each string at the 12th fret, harmonic to fretted note (make sure you are depressing the string evenly to the fret, not the fingerboard). If sharp, lengthen the string by adjusting the saddle back. If flat, shorten the string by moving the saddle forward. Remember, guitars are tempered instruments! Re-tune, play and make further adjustments as needed.

skipping the nut height isn't the end of the world if you dont want to shell out for the files.

Edit: oh and pretty much any tool has a high quality demo video on stewmac.com so check those out.

Feeler Gauge much better than using paper to measure nozzle distance.

Rain gear

Hydrate and trail mix

A throttle lock

https://www.amazon.com/Go-Cruise-Motorcycle-Throttle-Control/dp/B00TIEATVY/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=motorcycle+cruise+control&qid=1566491759&s=gateway&sr=8-14

Go around your bike and look at every fastener. Get the tool that is required and put it in your tool bag

A dry sack

https://www.amazon.com/Earth-Pak-Waterproof-Dry-Bag/dp/B01GZCUDC6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=dry+sack&qid=1566491799&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExWEdHN1JXMjc3S1NUJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDY4ODExMjFEUTQxSEFXUU5OQyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjE1MTQwMTFaNUFWOVBPVUs2RSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

​

Attach it with Rok Straps

https://www.amazon.com/ROK-Straps-ROK-10050-Black-Reflective/dp/B00JAKIEAY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=rok+straps&qid=1566491879&s=gateway&sr=8-3

A tire patch kit. Won't help if your tire is flat, an electric pump is nice, but room is limited for you. Hand pump?

https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=tire+plug+kit&qid=1566492644&s=gateway&sr=8-7

https://www.myrouteapp.com/routelab is a good way to lay out routes and download to a motorcycle specific GPS. You may not need this. When we do trips, I lay out the route and share the folder with friends and they can download from this site and upload to their GPS. Did I mention you may not need this.

Don't go full digital on anything. Maps etc. Buy an atlas, cut out the states you're going through and highlight your planned path. Now put states that are near each other on opposite sides (Kansas on one side, Missouri on the other side) and go to OfficeMax and laminate it. Make them a size that will fit in your tank bag map pouch.

There is no such thing as too much gas. There is such a a thing as too little. These don't suck.

https://www.amazon.com/Lixada-Outdoor-Camping-Kerosene-Alcohol/dp/B0116HTH18/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=gas+bottle&qid=1566492147&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyUTdCWU8yVU9JU1hWJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTIwNjQ5MlVRUEdBRjBGMDFEUCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTQ2MDA3MVVQNjFHVk9UWDJXQyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Motrin on the regular

Alternate foot position! Highway pegs are great.

Start with brand new tires. Hopefully they will last the entire trip, because you're looking at about 4k or more miles.

Battery Brick

https://www.amazon.com/20000mAH-Portable-Comkes-External-Smartphone/dp/B07F2YPBD2/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=battery+brick&qid=1566492328&s=gateway&sr=8-5

​

This is or something like it for the various stuff you may need to charge at night in the motel room.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Charger-Foldable-PowerPort-Samsung/dp/B00VH8G1SY/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=USB+charger+multiport&qid=1566492374&s=gateway&sr=8-8

​

Plan your stops and check out the reviews of the motels before hand. When I roll into a town, I pull over (when I have cell signal) and open Google Maps and type "motels in town X" and start looking at prices and reading reviews.

Before you pay, ask the rate and ask to see a room. If it's a dump, you don't have to get your money back. Ask me how I learned this was a good way to go.

Get an early start. Don't ride past dark. You better be riding in the warm, I assume you don't have heated gear. Colorado is cold at altitude, especially after dark, even in the summer.

Get a balaclava.

Ear plugs!!!!

Did you use something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K

here bro hope this helps

Obligatory get a bead jack post.

(I use nylon levers on my alloy rims.)

Steel Tire Lever or the Kool Stop Tire Jack.

Kool Stop Tire Bead Jack by Kool Stop http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AYML7K/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_L9Cvtb1WF831V

The tire jack will less likely scratch your wheel.

Are you sure the wheels are larger? Some tire manufacturers tend to make their beads a little tighter. Those tend to loosen a little bit with lots of riding.

I once got a set of new Vittorias that left blisters on both thumbs from my trying to get them on to my Mavics. The mechanic showed me a variation of one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K that he swore by.

Don't get something old from the 80's or 70's. it'll just make getting parts harder.

If you want a reliable beater that will be easy to repair get a 90's Honda. They are simple to work on, parts are plentiful, and as a daily driver they get amazing mileage. If you yet an obd2 model (96 and newer) get one of these so you can scan the codes.

Easy. I've got this.

I went OEM because some of the aftermarket installs can have weird gremlins. The downside is that it’s limited to the range of your existing keyfobs. That and the fact that if you have the limited with the smart key the car shuts off when you open the door. I totally get why it works that way, it’s a feature not a bug and it’s not big deal, but some people are annoyed by that.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OBVU92I/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I know that fits the 2014-2017 models, there is a similar part number (search PT398-891X0) for earlier 5th gen models.

I had to do some googling and digging in the 4Runner forums to find the install documentation, but I think it was this thread. The instructions covered everything, it was really very straightforward and was 100% plug and play. I have a limited and factory security so I didn’t have to install the hood switch, but that doesn’t look too hard either. If those aren’t the correct instructions let me know and I’ll dig it off of my hard drive.

You’ll want to get some plastic panel popping tools off of amazon, I got these. Other than that you’ll just need some common hand tools for the bolts, a screw or two, and cutting the tails off of the zip ties you install. Oh, they recommend a torque wrench for the knee airbag you have to take out (it’s less scary than it sounds, I promise). I had a cheap harbor freight one and it worked fine, but I don’t think it would be the end of the world if you just tightened them with your socket wrench by feel to what they were when you removed it, they don’t seem like they would be mission critical for the airbag to still work, they just hold it in place.

To get it to work with your keys, they have to be programmed. While there are apparently ECU programming tools one can buy, they seemed sketch and getting the techstream software to work was a fucking nightmare (I had to run a VM with Windows XP, and that’s before the driver nightmares) so I recommend just taking all the keys into a Toyota dealer, mine programmed them for the remote start for ~$60. It might even be cheaper if you time it with a maintenance visit. In the end my dealer wanted $750 to install the factory remote start but buying it myself and only paying them for the keys I spent half of that and 90 minutes of my time.

Oh, and the little barrel shaped plastic screw-head cover on the passenger kickplate in the bottom right of the passenger floorboard waaaay up in the back? It unscrews, it doesn’t pull off. Remember that, it took me like 10 minutes to figure that out. That was probably the toughest part other than getting the wiring harness actually plugged in, it was a tight fucking fit with all the wires.

If it's an ongoing thing, you can get an OBDII-to-bluetooth dongle for about $11 and a $5 phone app called Torque, then you can read and clear codes from your android phone. Plus see live engine data, which is neat. I think iOS has wifi equivalents. For me it adds a ton of peace of mind when I can read a code as soon as it pops up.

If your interested:

This app($10): https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.palmerperformance.DashCommand

Plus this($20): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W0SDLRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7TR-ybWNQ3SA6

Mount the S3 to your car, create a tasker profile to launch the app when it receives power (or connects to your stereo, etc.) And you get a wireless obd display =D I have this set up in my truck and I love it =)

Btw thanks for the reminder that this sub exists lol

If you own a smartphone, buy this. Best tool purchase I've ever made http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00W0SDLRY/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1454180781&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX118_SY170_QL70&keywords=obdii+bluetooth&dpPl=1&dpID=51R92BK2LSL&ref=plSrch

I've been using this one- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS
Had mine since 2012, from Amazon. No complaints here, it has worked well for me. But pretty much any one will do. They all use the same chip.

I bought this one about 5 years ago. Still working well. You also need an app. I personally bought Torque Pro for $5, but they have a free version as well.

I use an OBD2 Bluetooth reader and the Torque app on my phone to check codes for my 2007. I use this scanner, seems to work well https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(I had cheaper bluetooth reader before that worked on my 2008 Frontier, but didn't work on my Xterra).

I got this one for $18 last year. It went up to $24 now. Works well, just plug it into your OBD slot, fire up Torque and pair it with your smart phone (I use a Nexus 7) and that's it. I keep it in my car and since I always have my phone or tablet with me, I can pull readings whenever I need to.

This seems to be the best one out there for $25

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005NLQAHS/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_263_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=41qPjS0dkUL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C76_&refRID=0RT24HHDK5X4SK9BK152

Everyone is talking about how awesome and essential it is. Mine should be arriving tomorrow too which is awesome. Good luck!

More money, but this will give you more flexibility. I learned about these devices from another redditor. With this device, check your own system and turn off your own engine light. I bought it because I plan on buying a used car in a few months and want to plug it into any potential car I am thinking about buying to read the computer

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you are in the states then absolutely not, just because it has a nice front end doesn't add $3k worth of value, a car with engine problems assume you'll have to replace the engine and if you don't then woo! But knowing ka's the overheating issue is going to be air in the system and I say that with like 85% certainty, jack up the front of the car and blast the heater as you shake it and squeeze hoses to get all of the air bubbles out, this might even be a good idea if you are going to own a 240 and do your own work. If really helps when bleeding coolant, I use one often at the shop I work at.
Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OBLLxbQ4KG5RJ

The easiest way is to just break down and pay for a Lisle funnel. They make the whole process incredibly easy and they're worth every penny. I spent a day or two dicking around with bubbles and squeezing and revving and all that and THEN bought the damn funnel. Or ask if a friend has one. It took 20 minutes to do and the system has been great for a few months now.

Ok, I didn't force the thermostat, it just fit nicely. If I squeeze the bottom hose I can see the fluid rise in the radiator (when the cap it off), so I don't think there's any obstructions.

I will invest in the funnel, That'll be my next step. http://www.amazon.ca/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY without checking my local shop.

The radiator was bad, it was leaking tons (smoke coming from the engine). It overheated but not horribly the gauge didn't get too high.

I'll try the funnel and if that doesn't work then we'll see.

I really appreciate the help! If you live in Winnipeg i'll buy you a beer!

I apologize in advance for this long post. None of these are "must gets", but they are what I got for my 2016 Premium forester. I'm posting this for my own future reference as well as to help some people who are wondering what accessories might be good for their new forester. I highly recommend ordering from Jackie from Annapolis Subaru @ 443-837-1422 as she can get you some good prices on the subaru accessories as well as WeatherTech products! I saved on WeatherTech shipping costs (~$20) by ordering through Jackie and the warranty is the same as if I had bought them through their website.

Please note that some of these accessory links are for my specific car year, model and configuration. I have a 2016 Premium forester without eyesight (affects the Covercraft/heatshield sunshade - they also have eyesight compatible sunshades!).

Also, I personally didn't get my windows tinted, but I think that is something that you should seriously consider doing :)

Speaker kit

Tweeter kit


WeatherTech DigitalFit floorliner (1st & 2nd row)


WeatherTech cargo/trunk liner (without bumper protector)

Weather Tech TechCare floorliner and floormat Cleaner/Protector Kit

Gorilla mud flaps

Covercraft's UVS100 sunscreen - use promo code FREESHIP

Exterior Auto Dimming Mirror w/ Approach Lighting

Luggage Compartment Cover (manual rear gate)

Rear bumper cover

Auto-Dimming Mirror with Compass and HomeLink

Rear Seat Back Protector

Two Home Depot 5 gallon homer bucket

Heatshield sunshade (driver/passenger, second row, rear windshield, sunroof) - note that their website only shows only one side window (driver/passenger), you need to call in to ask them to add the second row side window ones - on my invoice it says part #1425S-A and #1425S-B

Antigravity Batteries AG-XP-10 Multi-Function Power Supply and Jump Starter (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)

Viair 77P Portable Compressor Kit (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)

Amazon stuff:

EZ Pass Holder for VA Flex

Aux cable

Stickershield (parking stickers, etc)

Dropstop seat gap filler (driver/passenger side)

Door panel removal kit (for speaker kit install)

Two grit guards

Microfiber Drying towel

Microfiber cloths (3 pack)

Car wash shampoo

Wheel brush

Resqme (window breaker/seatbelt cutter)

Wheel cleaner

Microfiber wash mitt

Reindeer costume for Christmas

Headrest coat hanger

Road reflective triangles

Duct tape

Odor eliminator

Tire air pressure gauge

OBDII Scanner (Bluetooth)

First aid kit

i replaced both of mine on my 05. they're like $40 shipped on ebay and amazon. you need to buy a pry kit like this to pop it off and then it slides right in.

https://www.amazon.com/KINGLAKE-Panel-Removal-Radio-Installer/dp/B00HNMLQAG/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=pry+kit&qid=1549632120&sr=8-4


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r5_-pebbIwk

When I removed mine I used of these plastic trim tools.

This guy is perfect for your setup. Gets you the 100w for your speakers and a respectable 350w for your sub.

Make sure you set your gains correctly. I'd leave some headroom on the speakers (target 90w) to avoid clipping.

This amp has fuses on it but you still need to fuse the power wire. Don't skimp on wiring!

This is a simple, clean, respectable little setup. I like it.

Oh yeah one last thing! I'd highly, highly suggest putting these on the shopping list if you don't have anything.

No one should have to go through that much trouble running wires.... There are cheap products out there that make all of this very... VERY... easy.

Long Guide https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Threader-Cable-Running-Pulling/dp/B00NQ0N5D0

Short and Stiff guide https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002LE8CQM

Body tools: (I credit this as one of my best purchases ever) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNMLQAG/

I used Goo Gone because it's gentle and I didn't want to risk stripping the clear coat or anything. Soaked it real good, waited 30 seconds or so and used one of THESE with a flat tip as a scraper. There were some very fine scratches afterwards. I could only see them with a flashlight and they came out easily with maguiers scratchx 2.0.

Since yours is newer the adhesive will probably come off easier than mine did.

Some conservative criticism

Proper panel removal tools will make life a lot easier and can prevent possible damage.

That ground looked questionable. Hard to tell if any cleaning of the paint/primer over that stud was done prior to install. But the rear package tray isn't a terribly substantial part of the car to being with. You want to ground to clean bare metal that is a substantial structure in the car. With the battery having been that close the factory ground point should have been readily available. The negative terminal on the battery would have been acceptable too.

The routing of the bass knob cable was just lazy. It takes very little time and effort to remove the rear seat bottom and route the wire that way with the factory runs.


Other that that, not to bad.

https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Android/dp/B00PJPHEBO

I use the free version of an app called Torque.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torquefree

You have to pair your phone to the dongle just like you would a pair of headphones.

Panlong Bluetooth OBD2 OBDII Car Diagnostic Scanner Check Engine Light for Android - Compatible with Torque Pro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PJPHEBO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CEJkDb0V2Z9T5

I just want to mention, I do strongly recommend investing in a real one if you want an odb scanner. I keep this one with me because it's small, and cheap, and like i said, it's usually right, but not always completely correct. Is it worth $10-$11 dollars? Sure! Do I ALWAYS trust it? Not always.

Clean looking model :) congratulations! Love that you have sunroof / moonroof (different countries - different names - same stuff).

Waiting for the interior pictures.

Here are few link where you can find info and parts in case if you will need; searching by VIN number, only the last 7 characters, CE7....

bmwfans.info and realoem.com for parts number

bimmer.work for equipment details, with which the car came from factory

Others; using apps

Torque pro or Torque lite - free version to use together with an OBD-II bluetooth scanner for quick diagnostics, are not expensive and can give you some quick info.

Another good app which I tried, a little bit more expensive, is Carly for BMW they have a free lite version as well Carly for BMW Lite only that you will need to have a smartphone which knows USB-OTG and a cable from them (from carly for bmw) adapter search which can be 30€ carly for bmw website

I tried them both, torque and carly, and I would say that they are good enough, can give you informations, faults (errors code) and you can search by error code number to have an idea what can be the issue; as well can clear faults.

Carly for bmw knows coding as a plus, you can configure your car to do other few things, such as automatically locking the doors when going over a certain speed, follow me home lights on time for a certain time, keeping pressed locking button from the key fob to fold the mirrors (+ windows to go up), keeping pressed unlocking button from the key fob for the mirrors to go down; plus other few stuff (can't remember). For a car from the years 2000s is having few nice features.

Take a look at youtube video 5 Series - E39 - Video Handbook (40mins video) and you can learn about them.

You will have to prepare for the future, in case if they will fail, about kit repairs.

In US you have German auto solutions with DIY instructions, tools, kits; very useful stuff.

Since recently I had issues with this hose 11531705223 Radiator Hose which I had it replaced and just blew (snapped) after 1 year when I was going up the mountain, they are know for failing and can leave you stranded; give it an eye inspection.

What else can I continue recommending you... uhm...

Take care of it and again, congratulations :)

Cheers

This is the ODB2 BT I got, works great: https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Android/dp/B00PJPHEBO/

Take a look at this for the L2 charging: http://www.instructables.com/id/313CONVERTING-A-2013-LEAF-LEVEL-1-12AMP-CHARGER-TO/

It is super easy to convert your existing L1 "charger" (it's not really a charger) to be both L2 and L1 capable, then you just need a 240v outlet (which is ~$100-$200 for an electrician to install, easy to DIY as well)

I have yet to do any public charging, but just signed up for a ChargePoint account, thanks to http://roev.org/ the account should work at ChargePoint, Blink, and EVgo station which is 90%+ of public stations. Maybe someone else can comment how well it works and if it's still a good idea to sign up for multiple provider accounts.

I also really like the Leaf Manager app: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=no.darkspawns.leafmanager&hl=en

Way faster and more useful than the Nissan provided app.

This one connects to your phone via Bluetooth. There's any number of free apps available to read any trouble codes. Torque is a good app to use with this scanner.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PJPHEBO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0QE5BbTQ9HRSB

This one works fine for me:
Panlong Bluetooth OBD2 Car... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00PJPHEBO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I bought this one (Amazon link):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PJPHEBO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_qRj0DbDZVKZDN

But the app also has an article talking about the scanners they recommend with the app, this being one of them.

I use a Panlong one ordered from Amazon with no problems. It was specifically one of the ones recommended to use for the Dr. Prius app, and it works with Hybrid Assistant and other apps without issue either.


It works fine in both my 2004 and 2012.

http://priusapp.com/obd.html

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PJPHEBO

I don't have this onebut it seems to have good reviews.

Google play store has the torque pro app.

>While they aren't free, you can buy OBD readers for as low as $25.

They've come down quite a bit, because many now just relay the data via bluetooth to read on your smartphone/tablet. I diagnosed an issue with mine with this $10 Model and a free app.

I've got a 2016, and use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W0SDLRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_G9wEzbFTEHM8Q

Works just fine on all my cars.

Little bit more expensive than when I bought it but it's saved so much money when I can identify the code look it up online and look up a tutorial on how to fix it on YouTube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W0SDLRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SZO7yb8G2F1WE

Yes, I recommend https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W0SDLRY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1. This works 100% on my iPhone and my 2013 S. Turn on Bluetooth and WiFi and connect to the OBD connector once its plugged into the Leaf.

Amazon works. I'd recommend https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E3G4SCC/ for Android and https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WPW6BAE/ for iOS

No worries.

​

You need to start with figuring out why they want you to replace your entire exhaust system. Is it throwing a code? Is it rusted to pieces?

​

Your car is fitted with 2 Cats, 3 O2 sensors, a resonator and a muffler. The absolute most expensive component will be the first cat, as it is part of the Exhaust Manifold. The cheapest one I could find from a half-reputable source is here at 350$. The rest of the system is pretty much bog standard and can be done by ANY exhaust shop without official parts. They probably also want you to replace the O2 sensors. These are generally expensive items but you are pretty lucky. You should have 3 of them. Upstream, Center and downstream.

​

If you absolutely have to replace the whole system, do some research for reputable exhaust shops. Just google it and look at reviews. Talk to a shop of your choosing and ask them if you can provide the Exhaust manifold and sensors, and if they would be willing to do the rest. Since after the exhaust manifold, its a bone simple exhaust, a shop with a good welder will be able to throw together an exhaust for you from basic components in less than a day and much cheaper than buying all the pieces separately. Some shops will want to charge you more than 200$ for the second cat. Give them the finger and buy the secondary from RockAuto. At that point its just some pipe bending, a resonator and a muffler. I would be surprised if they want more than 300$. if you include both cats. That puts you at 470$ for the 2 cats, 75$ for all sensor and 300-400$ for the rest. That puts you under 1k$ for the whole system.

​

The more likely scenario, is that they are just pissed off at a code your car is throwing (Your check engine light should be on in this case), I would start with buying a cheap OBD reader, or going to an OReilly's/AutoZone to get your ECU read and write down the code.

Here's one that will work with an Android Phone.

Here's one that will work with an iPhone.

Once you get the exact code the ECU is throwing, it'll tell you which sensor is unhappy.

Sensor 1: Either bad sensor or engine running poorly.

Sensor 2: Either bad sensor or the cat is not heating up properly.

Sensor 3: Either bad sensor or the cat is not burning up remaining fuel correctly.

From there you should be able to troubleshoot and fix the problem. Since sensors are 25$, I would start with those.

​

One last thing, did they shove something in your exhaust during the check? Ford's emission systems are ridiculously lenient, and often will not trigger sensor faults even if the cat is in shreds and missing most of its honeycomb. In that case, change your cats and forget about the rest of the system.

​

Just buy one. They are cheap, and useful. Amazon

Goes well with the Torque app

On your smartphone, you can download an app called Torque Pro. It's $5 (at least it was when I bought it) then buy one of these that "talks" with your ECU. There should be a sensor it can read the transmission temps.

This Astro one is what I bought and it fits.

Amazon I don't have much experience but I think that it does the job. I haven't had any issues on the two projects I've used it on, so I think it's a safe bet.

Well, I'd first recommend you step down in pad size and get a different backing plate. There is a 5 inch backing plate on Amazon that you can use with the 5.5 inch pads. Secondly, I'm not a big fan of Griot's pads, and I'd get something else if you can, like Lake Country or Buff and Shine. They're just better quality to me.

You've got the sandpaper order mixed up. You go from smaller to bigger. You go with the more coarse(1500) then move to fine(2000). I'd find out the equivalent abrasiveness level of the steel wool you used to see if that grit will be able to pull out the scratches you put in. If it's the 0000 steel wool I think the equivalent is 600-800 grit sandpaper from all the Google-Fu I just did.

EDIT - I just put together a cart for you on Autopia - GG6, 5 inch backing plate, Microfiber pad, Polishing Pad, Optimum No Rinse(ridiculously useful for EVERYTHING), Speedy Sponge Medium/Fine Grade Pack, M105 32 oz, M205 32 oz, D101 and it's at $240 with our Reddit Coupon code. You need more than 1 of each pad, but it gives you an idea of the savings you can get. Ray(/u/autopiavega) will hook you up if you talk to him and he'll get you what you need at a better price than you're looking at now. You'd have plenty of product and if you get the hang of things you can do a couple other cars and make your money back once you're practiced.

Get an outlet tester. Use it on every receptacle affected by the work including those in other parts of the house that might be on the circuits directly affected.

Get a multimeter. Use the AC testing function on the part that shocked you. Connect the red wire to the right most socket on the meter and put the probe and where you touched that shocked you. Put the black wire in the center socket on the meter and put the probe in the ground pin of a nearby receptacle. If you get any constant AC voltage over 1V, you have an issue with the power supply within the dryer (most likely).

Also use the multimeter on your outlet the dryer is fed from. You should put the black probe in the ground, and the red in each of the three (or two if your dryer is older) other holes in that receptacle. You should get two of them that measure 120V AC, and one that measures 0 AC and less than 1 V DC. Then measure from one hot to the other and just confirm you get 240V AC. If you get these values and you saw a voltage when testing the inside of the dryer, the dryer is the issue. Anything else means the wiring is borked.

The $20 you spend on these will be less than 1/3 of the cost of hiring an electrician to come out and even think about the issue.

It could also be static buildup inside the dryer caused by a loose or severed grounding strap inside. Try to connect a wire from the inside to the carpet/floor in your home with an insulated wire if all of the above comes back normal - don't try this first in case there is an AC voltage issue...

I just use my trusty multimeter

I'm glad someone else likes this stuff too!

Yep, I use a cheap bluetooth OBDII adapter like this one and the $5 torque app on my android phone. The free version of torque works well but is limited. Unfortunately, for i-devices you'll need to buy a more expensive one (like obd-link) or get one that communicates to your phone via wifi.

I upload the log to Dropbox and do some quick Python scripts to analyze and plot some things.

If u get a bluetooth obd 2 sensor and download an app I can check codes and more. Ill find the stuff and edit this


Here is a sensor might need to find another to fit ur car so just an example https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS.


The app I use is torque

Here is the one I'm using there are cheaper ones but I jsut opted for the one with the most/best reviews.

OBD2 isn't something for people with expensive cars, just... vehicles in general. It's the way your car tells you what is wrong with it.

big old list of Honda trouble codes

Most stuff that goes wrong in a car, there is a code or set of codes which will tell you what to check/fix/clean/replace

Can read or clear. Can check pending, current, or historic.

Can run KOEO and KOER self tests


>to put on my vehicle.

Not a permanent addition to your vehicle. I mean, you can... but no need to think of it that way.


here ya go, there are some partially defective obd2 adapters out there, but this one is legit Read their item description.

I just had to shell out a ton of money for a new window regulator because I shut the door and the window FELL DOWN INTO IT, so I totally feel you on the stress thing. I'm constantly worried something else is going to happen. Last year and the year before I was having problems with my throttle body, and it was entering throttle failure mode while I was driving, so basically the car stopped working while I was on the road. Utterly terrifying. Only happened once on the highway, fortunately. It's fixed now, but I'm still paranoid it's going to happen again.

This won't help now, but you can buy an OBD2 wireless scanner and plug it into your car to get error codes, and there are some pretty good apps out there that will tell you what the codes mean. I have one and it makes me feel less anxious because when I take it in, I can tell them exactly what code I got so they'll be able to pinpoint the issue more quickly.

I purchased a [BAFX one from Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=lp_4920137011_1_1?srs=4920137011&ie=UTF8&qid=1473802861&sr=8-1) that has worked reliably for me. $22 currently, though this one is Android only. Don't know if that's a problem for you.

No, the OBD2 scan tool has bluetooth. Your car has a place to plug it in, then you can connect to it using an android phone/tablet with torque.

So I thought that too, and someone else saved my day so i'll pass it on.

Motoscan. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.wgsoft.motoscan (I don't speak iPhone, but there's a version available)

You'll need a Bluetooth OBD reader, and the conversion cable for BMW's round port.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pin-to-16-Pin-OBD2-ICOM-D-Adapter-Cable-for-BMW-Motorcycles/232137965495?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523641500&sr=8-3&keywords=bluetooth+obd

Plug it in, install the app (you'll need the middle tier to do resets, I think it's 23 bucks), connect, and voila...no more service lights. Plus, i's the same OBD reader that will likely fit your car's OBD port, so its handy if you get a trouble code on the car too.

Yea, that's 2nd grader level science experiment style, if I'm being honest. There's so many variables and loss of solid testing in the way you did it, that it really shows nothing.



You need to get this (or one like it)

BAFX Products - Wireless Bluetooth OBD2 / OBDII Diagnostic Car Scanner & Reader Tool for Android Devices - Read / Clear Your Check Engine Light & So Much More! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4sIHDbPWB5R0W

Then get the Torque app

You'll then be able to read actual, real time fuel consumption

Spoiler, everything is normal

I'm going to be straight with you. Save 50-100$ and buy yourself a bluetooth scanner. I bought this an installed the app Torque Lite (free) it has saved me so much cash it's not funny. BAFX Products - Wireless Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XAQIDb05W5KSJ

Plug it in, itll pull the codes from your car, you can look them up on forums and boom. Diagnosis for free. I hope this helps!

I've been taken too the cleaners too many times. Those people run a business and need to make money. Some do it honestly, some dont.

Cheers!

It's free, see here, you can register as many 3-month trial licenses as you want. It requires an OBD2 reader that plugs in under the dash, I use this. It also requires a laptop with Bluetooth. You can do a lot of diagnostic stuff with Forscan but you can also connect that OBD2 reader to an Android phone if you have one and run apps like Torque.

Spend a few bucks on a code reader:

https://smile.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/

and the torque app is free:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torquefree&hl=en

it can clear the codes too w/o pulling battery cables.

Oooh oooh, I know this one!

So Matraxia is pretty much right, whatever is cheap, but I'll give you some more info you should know.

Pretty much all of the OBDII scanners out there, at least for consumer use, are based on the ELM327 IC. The ELM defines a serial, text-based protocol as an input, so you (or an app like Torque) give it a series of commands just like it were a modem, and then it handles communicating with your vehicle via several different protocols, all pretty much transparently. That's why one program like Torque can talk to pretty much every vehicle, via the ELM chip's magic.

The thing about that is, the firmware for the ELM chip got leaked a long time ago and there have been unlicensed Chinese copies made ever since. The real ELM has had upgrades since then, and the Chinese version has sort of kept up, but in the knockoffs some things work right and some things don't. They're frequently slower, buggier, or don't support certain commands, compared to the real ELM chips.

So how do you tell which you're getting? Mostly the price. The knockoffs are cheap, like this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Real-slim-ELM327-Bluetooth-V2-1-OBD2-Car-Auto-Diagnostic-interface-Scanner-Tool-/112145219935?hash=item1a1c60415f:g:YXwAAOSwzaJX44nq

No way that's a real one. Not for 4 bucks. That said, I have no idea what the cutoff is where you might consider it legit.

Personally, I have this one:
https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491605126&sr=8-3&keywords=obdII

I have sent it a number of commands over the serial terminal to verify that it's a real ELM327 chip and it has passed all of my tests. That said, it could still just be a good knockoff with a lot of the ELM's newer commands implemented. I really don't know for sure.

Either way, works great.

As for gathering data and exporting to excel.. that has nothing to do with the OBDII adapter you get and everything to do with the software you run on your phone. I have no idea of Torque or others support this but it seems like they should.

I have one of those bluetooth ones and use Torque Pro on my Android phones. I have had no issues.

ODBII tool (there is a small one, I havent tested it)

Torque Pro

This is a good one I recently bought and has good reviews:

BAFX Products 34t5 Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool for Android Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_5Dv6wbFD1XW5Y

20 dollar Bluetooth/WiFi code reader off of amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539905054&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=Code+Readers+bluetooth&dpPl=1&dpID=416SaTHOpkL&ref=plSrch
Edit: well $24~

I had an old Saturn once with similar symptoms and it turned out to be the EGR valve - I removed it and cleaned it with carb cleaner and a toothbrush. In my case I was able to diagnose as I had an OBDII scanner and the Torque app for my phone:


http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_su_dp

Good luck!

BAFX Products Bluetooth Diagnostic OBDII Reader/Scanner for Android Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS

For 3800 if the HV battery was truly replaced I'd totally go for it. Buy an obdII scanner from Amazon and download the torque pro app on your phone. Ask the seller if it's okay if you run an obdII scanner first before doing so. Check fault codes ect and also do a hybrid battery test with the Prius doctor app. If all looks well and it checks all the boxes I see no reason not to buy it.
BAFX Products Bluetooth Diagnostic OBDII Reader/Scanner for Android Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_eHS6CbYT3TXX2

Congratulations on your new Leaf! For anyone who doesn't have a similar device already, definitely plug in one of these and connect it with the LeafSpy app on your phone before your 7 days is up: https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=pd_rhf_sc_p_img_9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=5539G61R49EZH0220MRH

You want to be sure the battery is in good condition before you lose your opportunity to return the car. Good luck and enjoy your new Leaf!

BAFX Products 34t5 Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool for Android Devices

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vqnSybHD6E0NW

Here is an Amazon link to one, they are about $20 for the unit and the app I use (the full version is worth it) is $4.99. It's a fully customizable app with tons of data readouts. You can learn a lot about your car this way without breaking the bank.

This is the one I have, works flawlessly on my Gen 2, 3, and family members' various vehicles.

If you own a car from after 1996 this guy, or one of the ones like it.

The tools themselves are pretty cheap now as well:
http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-diagnostics-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS

If you have an Android phone get one of THESE and then THIS app for your phone. $29 and you can read your codes and learn a lot more about what your car's doing.

The sensor probably works with iPhone too, but I've never tried it.

Sorry I forgot to respond. What worked well far me was the following:

• BAFX Bluetooth OBD Scan Tool - $23.99 (I've seen them price it as low as $19.99 though depending on the day, may be worth watching the amazon page for a couple days)
  
  
• Carista Android app - free download but it costs $20 to unlock the feature that actually lets you apply new settings.
  
  I can vouch for this combination as I was able to successfully use it to configure options (such as windows and fog lights) in my CC. No problems. The only catch is that they claim the BAFX tool only works with Android. I have an Android phone so it's not an issue for me. If you have an iPhone you may have to look for a different tool. Carista actually sells one on Amazon but it's pricier ($40 last time I checked).
  
  This won't get you the full array of features of a real VAG-COM but it's also $200 cheaper.

You cannot make the screen permanent without an OBD II reader, but you can access the splash screen by going into the testing settings of Sync 3 (hold down track forward & eject), bypass the speaker test screen, then press Testing Settings, then change the theme to Ford-ST. When you power down your car it'll show, but upon startup it'll go back to the default Ford-timeless theme.

As far as I know the only way to make the change permanent is to change the hex value in Forscan. I was able to change it with this OBD II reader from Amazon. With that being said, the version of Sync 3 v2.2 going around the internet is not the official release so the one that is finally released to the public may have the ST logo enabled by default.

OBD to bluetooth dongle? Like this?

If you have a smart phone, you can get one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-PIC18F2480-diagnostics-compatible/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377738160&sr=8-1&keywords=bluetooth+obd

You can use a free app called "Torque" which gets you a lot of good information. There are other cheaper obd2 bluetooth readers, but they have fewer reviews. (I'm sure they're fine). You get more information than a basic cheapo obd2 reader at the same cost.

This is what OBD/OBDII is for. You can buy a bluetooth OBDII adapter for your jailbroken IOS or stock Android device and use a free app to get all the information a mechanic can during a diagnosis.

If you have an android you can do this for $28 to any car with an obd2 port.
Buy the bluetooth obd2 reader...

http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-PIC18F2480-diagnostics-compatible/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369776856&sr=8-1&keywords=odb2+bluetooth

Then download the torque pro app to your phone.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en

I use the track recorder plugin to see my autocross run speeds and lateral Gs and such.

I just ordered one of these and got this app. It tells you quite a bit about the car, speed, coolant temp, you can even run 0-60 times 1/4 miles. Way cheaper than getting an actual gauge.

This. Pick up any Android phone for uber-cheap (just has to have bluetooth and Android 2.0 or higher), buy Torque for $5, and buy one of these adapters for $24 Prime.

Total cost would be around $50-75 depending on the phone, and then you have an emergency phone, too.

Actual link so others can see more easily: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS

Yep, that's the one I have. Works like a charm for two years now.

Yes, what this person is saying. Download Leaf Spy Pro (yes, it'll cost you a few bucks off Google Play, oh well), and get an OBD (I got this one - ANY Leaf you come across, plug it in, load up Leaf Spy Pro, and look at the top right number in the main screen. Here is an example -- the 50.8% at the top at 67.4% SOC (state of charge) means the car is probably around 75-77% SOH (state of health) -- you don't want to buy a used Leaf like mine with that much battery degradation unless you just won't drive long-distance (my trips to Portland from Hillsboro are very rare, only about once every two weeks, and it's only 35 miles roundtrip).

BTW for anyone wondering from my screenshot, yes, the battery does get that hot. It's 85 F outside right now outside my house, and I just came back from the grocery store. Yes, Leaf Spy Pro does indeed say my battery is at 127 F. One time I came back from Portland and my battery temped at 205 F according to Leaf Spy Pro. This is what us Leaf customers get for buying an EV with no thermal management system...

I bought one on Amazon for like 25 bucks a while back. The app I used with it, Torque, is only available on android. Really good app though. No problems with the scanner itself. Had a good range too. Will post link when I find. Btw I know for a fact that there are other apps that work with this scanner. So don't worry if you do not have android.

Link http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005NLQAHS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1416539603&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

Scan the ODB2 port and see what the code is. From there, you should at least know what sensor is throwing the check light.
I had similar issues that the dealer would just reset, so I got a Bluetooth scanner that I just leave permanently connected. When it goes off, my phone looks the code up and if it is bullshit, I can just reset it myself. I use Torque as the software. Pretty cool to just watch all of your data with it too.

Link for the lazy

Cheapest I could find was $15.

Oxgord CAN OBD II Scanner Tool for Check Engine Light & Diagnostics, Direct Scan and Read Out https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011Q18D14/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_w5hlybCMQCXHT

Also, spend the $17 and pick up one of these. All cars made in 1997 or later have ports for them (and some back as far as 1994 do as well).

I imagine you mean the check engine light codes? I haven't used it on a TL, but I used something like this before on another Acura:
https://www.amazon.com/Foseal-Bluetooth-Scanner-Diagnostic-Android/dp/B00T5G53ZM

I imagine something like this would work the same, and doesn't require a phone or other device to pair it with:
https://www.amazon.com/Oxgord-Scanner-Engine-Diagnostics-Direct/dp/B011Q18D14

So those should be able to tell you the specific codes needing attention as well as an option to clear them if you want. Of course, clearing doesn't do you any good if you don't do anything about the issues, it can very well come back. But once you have the specific codes, look them up online and see if you can pinpoint the possible issue and get it fixed. At the very least, you can know how serious it is.

This and the cheap Torque app will save you a few trips to the dealer in the future.

This is the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BY2CK32

You should look into Bluetooth OBD2 sensors. You'll get the most accurate speed readout plus car info

Here is an example of one.
https://amzn.com/B011NSX27A

I just ordered one last week, along with a free app like Torque Lite and you can read and reset your light codes. Most auto parts stores will read it for you, but they aren't allowed to clear the code. I have found that a vast majority of my codes were caused by loose gas caps.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BY2CK32/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

saves me some bbq'd hands

Its not worth an engine to try and duct tape it, sounds like you need a better tool for getting it off.
Most parts stores carry these and they work well. Just make sure you get the right size range for your car.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8

I bought one of these and it's an absolute joy: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8

Makes the oil changes on my '06 STI and my wife's '07 Forester a breeze. Granted, you can't use the wrench to put the new filters on but at least you won't burn yourself trying to take them off.

I use this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0128-Maintain-Damaging/dp/B00068XCQU/

But this one would probably also do the trick:

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S/

Should be able to find them at your local auto parts store, or even Walmart or someplace like that.

Shouldn't be a problem at all, batteries are made to be charged and discharged. Everyone should invest in a Battery Tender, they're really great chargers (and great for intelligently keeping a battery topped up for cars in storage). Not too much more expensive than shitty harbor freight ones, and they work and will last a long time.

Been using this one for a few years, I like it.

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0128-Maintain-Damaging/dp/B00068XCQU/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1539371358&sr=1-6&keywords=battery+tender

You pretty much have your question answered but I wanted to show some winter car accessories that I use and they have made life easier.

When my car is parked overnight I use a cover like this and it keeps ice and frost off your windshield. There are various types and sizes of these. Mine had side mirror pockets to hold it on and covers the wipers too. Putting in on and taking it off is much easier/quicker than defrosting and scraping.

Very cold temps can result in a dead battery, or one too weak to start the car. This happened to me yesterday and I used one of these to jump start it. I have jumper cables too, but with this I didn't need anyone's help.

When I got home, I trickle charged my battery with this. I just parked in my driveway and ran the charger's 25 foot cord under the garage door and clamped them onto the terminals under the hood. Started nicely today.

I also keep an air compressor in my car all the time. If I'm out on the road and my tire pressure sensors start beeping I can pull over anywhere and top them off.

https://www.amazon.com/Deltran-Battery-Tender-021-0128-Charger/dp/B00068XCQU

You don't need a special thing. It's just a trickle charger with constant voltage charging.

You should be fine. Hook it up to a battery charger though. http://www.amazon.com/Deltran-Battery-Tender-021-0128-Charger/dp/B00068XCQU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1422682919&sr=8-2&keywords=battery+tender

Those are great to own. Really helps prolong the life of the battery.

Personally I’d consider selling it and get another when it’s time. Don’t you think it will sell for at least what you owe? Didn’t need payments or insurance when I helped raise my two boys, bought another later. But if you can’t decide and choose to store it, here’s an exhaustive checklist.

http://www.clarity.net/~adam/winter-storage.html

Here’s a great battery tender.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00068XCQU/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_i_c_3wB7AbK953D28

Congratulations and a hope all goes as planned, take care!

I also have an AirSense 10 Autoset. The power "brick" provided with the unit is a conventional 120-240 VAC to DC converter. With the Ego Lawn Mower and Inverter you're converting electricity from DC to AC to DC. There will be substantial power-to-heat losses due to less-than-optimum efficiency of the power conversion.

Additionally, the AC output of the Ego Inverter (see manual, page 9) is limited to 150 Watts. At 120 Volts, this means that the current maximum it allows is 1.25 Amp. The maximum current demand that the AirSense 10 requires is 1.50 Amp. This is why the inverter's overheat is being triggered and it cuts power to your APAP; too much current is being demanded by the unit for the inverter's circuitry to handle.

I recommend following Resmed's Battery Guide using stand-alone, deep-cycle batteries.

I take my AirSense 10 camping and I recently purchased the following items, totaling to $205.56

1. $68.99 12V 35AH Group U1 Deep Cycle Scooter Battery
   
2. $11.36 Group U1 Snap-Top Battery Box
   
3. $45.03 Battery Tender Plus 1.25 Amp Battery Charger
   
4. $69.99 Rockpals DC Converter Compatible with S10 CPAP Series
   
5. $10.19 Battery Tender Female Cigarette Adaptor for Quick Disconnect
   
   12V 35AH batteries ship factory-charged. If used with tube heating and humidification switched off, and maximum IPAP pressure of 16 cm H2O then a single battery will last you for two 8-hour nights. See Page 7 of Resmed's Battery Guide for details of power consumption if using any of the heat settings.
   
   I hope this helps. Feel free to ask me questions.

If it sits a lot then use a battery tender like this. You leave an adapter always connected to the battery then route it somewhere like the front grill. When you get home, plug it in if its going to sit a while into the adapter on the tender. That's it. It will keep it charged and ready to go. We use the smaller ones (not the one I linked) for the house generators out here and they work great. Still would be a good idea to start it and run it around the block every few months

Agreed. Or a chemical tester.

Since you mentioned that it happens when you get off the interstate, this makes me think it's fan related since you obviously have more airflow through the radiator on the freeway....But you confirmed that the fans are operating correct.

In your previous post, you said you had the coolant tested and the head gasket tested. I assume the coolant system was pressure tested but how exactly was the head gasket tested to determine it's ok?

I've had head gaskets fail where the coolant system held pressure just fine but it was rather the cylinder combustion pressure pushing combustion gasses into the coolant system. This introduces air into the coolant system causing the overheating. A combustion leak tester like this is what I've used.

Not an expert, but

I'd focus on the drive train issues first, get all those tires working, might be a lost cause before going any deeper, but others will have to help with that, I take that kind of stuff to my mechanic.

Brake pedal could be that it's low on brake fluid, or one of the brake calipers is stuck.

My quad has a foot brake like that and a hand brake, but the foot brake only brakes 1 tire. That tire has two brake calipers on it's roter, one to the foot break and one to the hand brake. So the hand brake is all 4 wheels, and the foot brake is 1 wheel. There is a master cylinder on my hand brake and another on my right rear tire (foot brake). If my foot brakes master cylinder runs low or springs a leak, my pedal goes through the floor like in your pic but I'll still have brakes on the hand brake. It's like a double/emergency braking system. If my hand brake goes out I can down shift (engine brake) and lay on that foot brake to brake and not hit a tree...
___

Fuel wise, it's likely carburetor being old. The carburetor should have a primer on it that injects gas into the carb when you press/pull it. Those generally have a diaphragm in them (rubber) that tends to go bad over time and cause a fuel leak.

If you can find a diagram of the carburetor that would help emensely.

Really though, you should take the whole carburetor off, take it apart and give it a bath in carb cleaner (no plastic/rubber in there) and clean all the jets out.

Also, they make rebuild kits for most carb's that come with all new jets, and pilot screw etc. See if you can find one. I typically just replace them all, easier and then I have spares.

Also, inspect the carb's vent hose and make sure it's intact and not clogged. Check the fuel line too, for damage/rot.

You should also remove the gas tank and clean it out. Take the petcock off and inspect the filters and valve, then clean the whole gas tank out so there's no dirt/bad gas in there.

Then check/change the spark plug(s). Before running it though, I'd check the valve clearance on the valves, guides on that online.

Once all that's done, it should run good and not leak gas.

Then you can address your other issues.

Pending how old it is, there are some parts I might replace just because:

• Voltage Regulator
  
• Starter Solenoid
  
• Starter
  
  If the current ones are working, call them spares.
  
  Starters and solenoids are cheap, voltage regulators OEM are expensive, but you can buy a few after markets pretty cheap to have spares.
  
  Tool wise, I can recommend at least the following:
  
  
• Wire/Brushes
  
• Jack/Lift
  
• Compression Tester
  
• [Feeler Guages] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BYGIR4) You want these to go from at least .002 to .014 inches
  
• [Caliper] (https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW/) If you need to measure float height, you want to be accurate.
  
• Angle Finder Useful for float height, as most carbs need to be held at a specific angle for accurate float height adjustment.
  
  Then your typical ratchet sets, air tools, impact guns, etc.
  
  And socket extensions (long ones) because getting to some things is a royal pita.

Buy a feeler gauge on Amazon: OEMTOOLS 25025 26 Blade Master Feeler Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BYGIR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eTKEAbM4H1TJR

They’re $5 and well worth it!

It's actually very easy. I'm a total newbie - if you go through my posts, you'll see that I bought my first guitar in June and that the Rocksmith community helped a lot.

Since then I learned how to set up (truss rod, action, intonation, pickup height) and change the tuners/ bridges of my guitars. The key here is to not be afraid of your guitar anymore - I used to be scared shitless I would break it. No, I won't. The thing is tough as hell, and you need to first overcome that fear. Fun fact, the first guitar I tried to perform a setup on was a $1000 Gibson. I know, I'm stupid and should've tried with my cheaper guitars, but oh well.

All you really need to adjust the truss rod is the truss rod wrench (should come with your guitar if you bought it new), some sort of feeler gauge, an action ruler - I use it for the precise measures, a Phillips screwdriver & flathead, and an accurate tuner - I use the Polytune 2

If you'd like to learn, I could send some tips & noob advice I learned for myself. It's really easy - I PROMISE.

likely a nail or screw in the tire. Driving can shear the head off and make it hard to see. A bead leak or valve leak tends to be annoying but a lot slower loss (like 20psi a week). Bring it to a tire shop or if you want to fix yourself you'll need to jack it up and remove the wheel, use a pliers to pull out the offending object, and as long as it's not near the edge of the tread you can plug it with this. It takes a bit of muscle to do.

First of all, I am glad you asked for advice, this is what this community is for, and some are just being friendly by making a little fun. It's really cool that you are planning this out and looking way in advance. I am also a 48 owner so I know what its like to have fuel anxiety. You are going to need layers, water, power bars and basic bike stuff . I have ridden in Arizona in the winter, and even though the sun is shining, 50's is very cold once you factor in the wind from motorcycle riding.

• Layers, go get some type of wool underlayer, it stays warm when wet and also cools you off when sweaty. Seriously, get wool.
  
  
  
• Water, you need more water. Here is why. That time of year you have a chance of low humidity which means you need more water. I know you are not going to die if you don't drink enough water for one day, but you can get mood swings, joint aches, lack of mental acuity, all which can be dangerous on a bike.
  Power bars and trail mix are fine for quick energy and keeping the belly from grumbling.
  
  
• For the bike you need a few things. Tire repair, fuel and storage. For tire repair , you need a way to plug it,and a way to inflate it. I carry this and a couple of c02 cartridges to get me out of a tight spot. This guy does a great video.
  
  Now you need fuel reserves, I carry a larosa bag with a small can and add a bigger cans depending on how nervous I am about fuel consumption. I have been stuck on the side of the road on highway 10, 40 miles west of blythe, and it sucks. Do not store these on the wive's backpack. Get some cheap fuel bottle holders
  
  
  So I would do two things from here until November.
  Find a way to get your bike ready to be more of a pack mule. And get your wife more seat time, and maybe a gel pad?
  You can get cheap bags at revzilla
  
  Best of luck and post some pictures!

I keep a Slime pump and a plug kit under my seat. It has come in handy more than once and it was a major life savor being far from home.

Buy one of these and a small 12v air compressor. This + a little muscle will be adequate to handle 99% of tire problems. Complete blowouts are rare and this would not be enough.

These patches (while a little hard to put in) will last the life of the tire. I've used a dozen on car and motorcycle tires.

Slime 1034-A T-Handle Tire Plug Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ET525K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HA1-ybYRG4MKE

It looks like a tool to plug tires. https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K

For that short of a ride, everything I've said here is relatively irrelevant... I misread your original post and thought you said "1000mi." You're just a quick drive from home, it's not that big of a deal for someone to pick you up in case of breakdown. :) I'd say you're being overly-cautious, but that's a good thing. I regularly do 300+ mile round-trips in one day that begin and end at my house with no prior preparations, or without packing anything said here, so you should be fine! Just remember to have fun and not worry too much...

Tire patch kits are all the same, but you can get this kit: http://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-A-Tire-Plug-Kit/dp/B000ET525K/ref=sr_1_17?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1333403186&sr=1-17 from Wal-mart for less than that. I have a really old one that I pulled out of a wrecked car, but it looks the same. Slime makes good stuff, that kit will hold up. The inflaters are all the same too, just pick up the CO2 inflator that Slime makes when you get the patch kit. The patch is more to get you to a shop for a new tire, rather than to get you to your destination. I really don't recommend riding on a patched tire for any length of time.

What I usually pack when I go motorcycle camping (off the top of my head):

• hammock tent -- Hennesey Expedition
  
• sleeping bag
  
• change of clothes per day (tshirt, jeans, underwear, socks)
  
• shoes
  
• riding jacket
  
• helmet
  
• bodywash
  
• deodorant
  
• toothbrush
  
• small towel
  
• screwdriver (phillips / flathead)
  
• 2x adjustable wrenches
  
• allen wrench
  
• duct tape
  
• tire patch kit
  
• CO2 inflator
  
• LED flashlight
  
• food and water (instant noodles, crackers, kippers, trail mix, energy bars, etc... )
  
• Camping stove
  
• fuel
  
• mess kit (small pot / skillet, bowl, mug, chop sticks)
  
• knife
  
• small first aid kit w/ insect repellent
  
• phone
  
• phone charger
  
• camera
  
• small tripod
  
  I generally ride until past dark, then just put up the tent at a public park and leave again at sunrise. No one will mess with you, and if they do, tell them where you're riding and where you're from (and that you did that on a scooter), and they'll usually not care and let you stay.
  
  If you're on facebook, look up GASS (greater atlanta scooter society) or the Terminal Scooter Club. Both groups occasionally go on longish (~200mi) rides in a group. A group ride would be a good way to get your feet wet without any worry of getting stuck, alone, in the middle of nowhere. :D

Short of something obvious like around new construction where nails and screws falling off truck bumpers will be more common it's pretty much just random chance. If it keeps happening it might be worth buying yourself a tire plug kit like this and an inflator so you can fix it yourself. In the mean time call around and see if you can find a local tire shop that patches tires for free.

This video helped me with my technique: http://youtu.be/-XUFVrl0UT4 .

Also, the bead jack is supposed to help. Haven't tried it myself: http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K

Specialized tires do run small. They are the right size, just really tight. Kool stop makes a nice tool to help get these stubborn tires on.

http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack-Handle/dp/B001AYML7K

This video is a good one.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XUFVrl0UT4

BTW, you need the levers. Just go out and buy. It's not an expensive thing and very useful thing you can carry.

I suggest you to try without metal things to mount tires. If not careful, you end up cutting the tube. I've done pinch flatting the tubes a few times so this is from my experience.

If you must, try the bead jack.

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K/ref=sr_1_31?ie=UTF8&qid=1483489515&sr=8-31&keywords=tire+lever+bicycle

When I use the tire lever while mounting, I do double check the lever is not pinching the tube.

Oh man I know that frustration so well. You SHOULD be able to install a tire without levers, but I’ve gotten to the point where I’m covered in sweat and feeling like existence is hopeless trying to get that last little bit on. No need to get to that point if you don’t have to. this tool has been a lifesaver for me on those really tough ones

Do yourself a favor:

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K

This right here was the answer to all of my prayers. You can mount anything on earth with this. Once you get used to it, it is even effortless.

Or if at home or touring (where it make sense to carry extra tools), use a tool like the Kool Stop Tire Bead Jack. Works very well. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001AYML7K/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_E8RXDbM907Q8X

These guys: http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/var-tyre-levers-prod27539/?currency=usd&geoc=us&changecurrency=usd

They are basically a portable version of the Kool Stop Tire Jack which allows you to get tight fitting tires such as the Schwalbe Marathon Plus or anything tubeless on without frustrations.

I have the same scanner, it's not very good. They use a knockoff ELM327 chip which doesn't work very well.

You're better off with something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS300-OBD-II-Scan/dp/B001LHVOVK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1319057551&sr=8-2

I have both and never use the bluetooth one, the standalone unit is much more convenient and reliable.

• Learn how to change a tire. Do it in your driveway or in a parking lot on your own. It is a lot better to know how to do it right when you need to. And it is much easier to learn how on a warm sunny day than on the side of the road in the rain, or the middle of the night.
  
  
• Keep a tire pressure gauge on you. If your tires appear low, check the pressure. Tip: Sheetz gas stations (at least the ones in Virginia) have free air (most gas stations do). Their systems have a digital pressure setting and an auto-cutoff. Just set the pressure, and it will stop filling when it gets there. Otherwise use your pressure gauge to dial it in. Most cars will feature the tire pressure for front and rear tires on a sticker in the front door frame.
  
  
• Water will work as coolant in the summer. If it is colder outside, you will want to buy antifreeze. Most gas stations will sell it.
  
  
• If a warning light on your dash comes on (check engine, oil light, alternator light, etc) you will need to get it checked/fixed soon. Check engine lights can sometimes be nothing (sometimes it is just a loose gas cap), but it is always good to get it checked. More on that in a minute. If a warning light on your dash starts flashing, that is a serious problem. Pull over, turn the car off, and call a service station
  
  
• You can save yourself some money by getting an OBD2 Reader. These read your check engine codes and tell you why your check engine light is on. Some shops will do this for you for free, some will charge $20. Most corporate owned auto stores will let you borrow theirs in exchange for your drivers license. Personally, I say just drop the $20 and get one, it saves time later on. They sell ones that are much more expensive, up to thousands of dollars. You don't need these; these give "live" data of the car's sensors and other things that won't help anyone other than a mechanic. A small $20 one will read the code and probably clear it if you want.
  
  Simple run down on how to use them (should be in the instruction book). 1. Plug it into the car, with the car turned off. (The plug will almost always be under the dash) 2. Turn the key to the ON position. (Do not start the car, just one click before it. Like if you wanted to turn the radio on but not start the engine) 3. The code reader will usually say READING for a few seconds and give you one or more codes. They will look something like P0430. Cheap readers usually have books with them that will tell you what they mean. More expensive ones ($100-$200) will define the code. If you don't have the book, just google the code.
  
  Depending on the code, you may or may not understand what it means. This is okay. If you google the definition of the code, you will almost always find someone describing the general idea of what is going on. Again, you might not be able to use this info to repair the car yourself, but it can give you an idea of how serious a problem is, and may prevent you from being ripped off by mechanics.
  
  
• Anticipate maintenance and repairs. Tires are expensive. Thankfully, they don't need to be replaced all that often, but changing 4 tires at once can easily be $300 bucks for cheap new tires. Avoid used tires. Keep $100 saved up to get the oil changed. Newer oils need to be changed less often, but the shop should advise you when to come back. (I'm assuming you aren't planning on changing your own oil any time soon) Nothing is worse than knowing your oil is dirty and overdue for a change but not having the money to make it happen, and old dirty oil will shorten the life of your engine.
  
  
• Every 6-8 months, when you get gas, go into the gas station and buy fuel system cleaner. It will look similar to this. Simply pour the entire bottle into your gas tank and then fill up your tank to the top. Also, and this is very important! DO NOT PUT THIS IN A DIESEL VEHICLE
  
  
• Finally, find a good mechanic/service station. Ask locals around your town. Check reviews. The difference between a good one and a bad one can be hundreds, if not thousands. Before I learned about cars, I went to several mechanics for my first car.
  
  One never updated me on their progress, charged super high prices, and recommended unnecessary repairs. Then I went to one that would come out and talk to me 2 or 3 times throughout the repair (giving me updates, letting me know of other problems he noticed, etc), he would never perform an additional repair without taking me into the shop and showing me exactly what he was talking about. At one point, he ordered brake parts from down the street because I thought I needed new parts. Turned out it was a whole different issue with different parts. He happily sent them back, free of charge to me, and walked me through what he was going to do. I still take my cars to him when they have "gremlins" that I can't figure out. Usually they charge a pretty big service fee per hour, but from the very first time he charges me 1 hour less than whatever it takes him. His reason is always "I wanted to figure it out as bad as you did. Forget the money, this thing became my puzzle."
  
  But I've been rambling on that. Point is, find a good mechanic and stick with them. It will make a huge difference.

It's easy:

1. Find out why the light is on. This could be a loose gas cap or a real problem. There is a $14 code reader gizmo for this.
   
   
2. Fix the problem. This of course depends on what th problem is.
   
   
3. Reset the MIL (that's the real name of the "check engine" light). Your reader gizmo can also do this.

That's what I assumed unfortunately.

I got a $20 scanner on Amazon, and it can check inspection monitors. It's a simple tool, but it will go through the list of monitors (evap, cat, etc.) and tell me if it is ready or not.

I guess I will just have to hope for the best if I don't see any CELs. Thanks for the answer!

Good recommendation, just buy a code scanner.

OP, here's one for 20$ on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS300-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B001LHVOVK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1345574036&sr=8-1&keywords=obd+II+scanner

It's worth getting your own. I have an Autel similar to this one. I've only used it once and it retrieved the code no problem.

I recommend buying from Amazon a diagnostic code reader so you can read the check engine codes yourself and verify what the garage is telling you. I bought one a few years ago for only $15 and it works great, there are newer/ better ones now but here is the one I use:
[Diagnostic Scan Tool for OBDII Vehicles] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001LHVOVK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

I have this one. It's actually $15 on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001LHVOVK/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1465956178&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=scan+tool&dpPl=1&dpID=41zoXcnpYQL&ref=plSrch

I have my office in sorrento valley. If you want to drop by tomorrow morning I can let you read the code or possibly borrow my reader.

I have this one

I agree, LOVE this body style.

When I first bought the truck a few years ago, used and relatively decently taken care of, I changed the plugs immediately (they were bad..).

One thing is, if you're going to tackle the job yourself:

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-LIS65600-Broken-Remover-Engines/dp/B00267PZUK

This tool will save you. I broke 3 out of 8 plugs. I ran one piece champions but they ran terribly. So I went back OEM motorcraft plugs and if it comes time to change em again, I am not worried because I have my lisle tool. =]

Im guessing if you havent heard of the Lisle 5.4l 3v Broken Spark Plug Removal Set, is you havent heard of the hot extraction method.

I recommend always trying this hot extraction method first. Then have the Lisle handy for when they break anyway.

You may want to invest in the extractor or find one at your local parts supplier. Best of luck!

Uf its a ford thats a common problem, and lisle tool company makes a tool that will extract it in about 10 minutes
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00267PZUK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1/131-1609502-3614005?ie=UTF8&qid=1519192112&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=lisle+ford+spark+plug+removal+tool&dpPl=1&dpID=31EMI4aq53L&ref=plSrch

This is the one I went with:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_EFqiub0TTBDWG

I have had it on for a year and it is holding up great. The velcro is very strong and it holds well.

A few things from HF that I own and would recommend. Jack Stands, jack, breaker bar, 1/4'' ratchet, 3/8'' ratchet, 1/2'' ratchet, 3/8'' locking extensions, 1/2'' locking extensions, screwdrivers. Some other things I would recommend, Lisle oil filter wrench, Lisle oil pan. I would look on Ebay for used Craftsman sockets sets and combination wrenches. That should be enough to get you started. You can upgrade and expand from there as you see fit.

And Don't forget the HF coupons ;)

The Lisle filter Tool--Amazon makes changing Subaru filters a piece of cake.

1. I’m sure there are a few sockets available that fit but I just use a generic spring loaded one like this
   
   
2. I’m not 100% sure but I believe they just have slightly different labels
   
   
3. I’m not aware of any way to add that feature to another vehicle.

Do you have a finger-style oil-filter cup wrench?

Preferably this one:

https://smile.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8?sa-no-redirect=1

When I worked at a quicklube we used (these)[ http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002SR4Q8/ref=pd_aw_sbs_2?pi=SL500_SY115&simLd=1] to get off even filters from the factory even (first oil change ones, but they torque them on the assembly line) the worst I ever had, I put a rag under the tool, got a long extension to get some space, and then put a wrench on the back of the breaker bar. It crushed the filter completely but came off

Some type of oil filter wrench (for cars) should do the trick, there are many different types out there.

After looking through your pictues again,

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000UD0CTQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1427821476&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&keywords=oil+filter+wrench&dpPl=1&dpID=41WDAhTpWiL&ref=plSrch this is probably your best bet.

Also, http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002SR4Q8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1427821476&sr=8-1&keywords=oil+filter+wrench&dpPl=1&dpID=41gd0o9Ph8L&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

Also recommend getting a Battery Tender. They're good if you leave vehicles sitting for a while, to prevent the battery from slowly discharging over time.

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0128-Maintain-Damaging/dp/B00068XCQU

This may be a bad idea, but off the top of my head, maybe you could use a small inverter plus a battery tender to recreate a setup similar to your old one.

Edit: Also these are not cheap but there is a company called All In Charge that makes setups for charging your boat or RV battery while you tow.

Edit2: If these guys are still in business, they offer a solution that some people really like. Their website really needs some work though, I would bet its best to just email them.

Edit 3: Found one more solution for you from PowerStream.

If you know you are going to park the bike for over a week, put the battery on a tender. If you are parking for a week, usually it ends up longer.

So the solution for camping and common power outages are pretty close to the same.

If you live somewhere where the power goes out often, get yourself a 12v adapter for your machine (varies by machine), buy a AGM deep cycle trolling motor battery (~$100) and a Battery Tender. Plug the battery tender to the wall, hook it to the battery, then hook the 12v adapter to your machine. Congratulations: the battery tender keeps the battery topped off, the CPAP runs off the battery, and you never miss a beat when the power goes out. If you're looking to lose power for more than one night (say you regularly have to wait out hurricanes) you'll want a bigger capacity deep cycle battery if you want to run the humidifier.

For car camping just leave the battery tender at home and turn off the humidifier. Fully charged battery should easily last you 5 nights.

If you're more of a backpacker/rough camper pick up a large USB battery pack that supports 12V out. People with Philips Respironics machines report that pack gives them 2 nights without humidifier. If you have a Philips machine it actually comes with the right size barrel plug, so no 12v adapter needed.

A good battery will bounce back and give you enough juice to start. Do that enough times and the battery says "F this. I quit."

Get yourself a battery tender and leave it plugged in when not riding.

I use this one for dual batts on a Ford F350. It does very well throughout the winter.

Do you have a battery trickle charger at home? I would charge the battery for ~24 hours. I have one of these, and plug my battery in once a week.

The optima suggestion isn't going to solve the battery drain issue. Yes, it's a heavier duty battery. But if you keep pouring out 1/2 cup of water out of a jug and only replace it with 1/3 cup of water, you'll eventually run out of water.

Really needs to do a battery tender and get in the habit of plugging it in when they get home. A setup like this would be a good idea. http://s279.photobucket.com/user/NotMoneyGuy/media/IMG_3749_zps1edf0d2c.jpg.html

Have a quick disconnect say dangle through the grill of the car and plug the charger in nightly.

Edit: I like the Battery Tender brand myself.

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-lightweight-automatic/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1494516072&sr=1-3&keywords=battery+tender

Or the faster charger:

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0128-Maintain-Damaging/dp/B00068XCQU/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1494516072&sr=1-5&keywords=battery+tender

There are stupidly simple, just plug/connect them to the battery and they're automatic.

here ya go: $30 bills

been using this: http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0128-Plus-Charger/dp/B00068XCQU/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1347520065&sr=8-5&keywords=Battery+tender+jr

for years.

It's not that hard to figure out a blown head gasket. Remove the radiator cap/resevoir cap and start the car. If you see bubbles coming out, it's probably blown. If you put your hand over the hole and it rapidly builds pressure, it's REALLY blown.

You don't want the car to run long enough to get hot and possibly burn you, when you're doing this.

We use this tool to be sure, the fluid will change colors if it's exhaust gas:

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-75500-Combustion-Leak-Detector/dp/B0007ZDRUI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473001356&sr=8-3&keywords=block+tester

Get yourself one of these

Don't waste your time and money on a timing belt/water pump just yet.

This model of Honda is common for head gasket failures, in the exact same way you described. I had the very same issue happen with my 2005 Civic, which basically is the same car.

it was slowly loosing coolant because it was getting past the exhaust seal of the head gasket and blowing out the combustion chamber, the car would also misfire usually on a cold startup, then run just fine, I was able to drive the car like this for a few weeks by just bleeding the cooling system, but eventually it got so bad that the excess exhaust pressure would blow back through the cooling system and cause coolant to leak from the radiator cap. The reason why there is no puddles under the engine is because its blowing by the exhaust and going through the exhaust system, on a cold start you probably will see some coolant come out of the muffler. The longer you let this go, the more likely its going to damage the catalyst

when you get the head gasket done, make sure the water pump, and timing belt get done, its a no brainer to have this done while the head is off the engine anyway.

My indie shop did the whole shebang for about $1200, I got a deal.

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-75500-Combustion-Leak-Detector/dp/B0007ZDRUI

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-75500-Combustion-Leak-Detector/dp/B0007ZDRUI

Get the radiator up in the air so the gas goes to the fill neck.

link 1 - the notches are overkill, it's the straight edge you want because you're aligning the frets not the fretboard. Amazon has an 18" steel ruler that should work fine https://www.amazon.com/Westcott-Stainless-Steel-Office-Inches/dp/B000093IJ1/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483315326&sr=8-1&keywords=18%27+ruler

link 2 That's overkill as well, you'll end up using just one or two of the files. I don't like the fret guards because it's more efficient to tape all the frets at one time than it is to tape up the guard 22 times. If you want to round the fret ends this file is similar to one I've used and will work fine. Just make sure the edge of the file doesn't saw the fretboard https://www.amazon.com/Nicholson-Triangular-Ergonomic-American-Pattern/dp/B001R1UZII/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1483315923&sr=8-12&keywords=triangular+file

link 3 - That's fine, there's another one $1 cheaper. They're basically all stamped out in China, and do the same as the $25 Stew Mac one. https://www.amazon.com/Pixnor-String-Action-Ruler-Guitar/dp/B01HM8SNHY/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1483316161&sr=1-3&keywords=String+Action+Gauge

Your choices are fine, but I'm a cheap dude. And while you're in the ordering mood, you might get a set of automotive feeler gauges. This is what you can use with the ruler to set the amount of relief the neck should have. https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25025-Blade-Master-Feeler/dp/B000BYGIR4/ref=pd_sim_267_16?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BA62DPTD81NDZKM36V6C

More on neck relief from Fender's web site: http://www2.fender.com/experience/tech-talk/how-to-measure-neck-relief/

If you wanna learn how to work on your own guitars, Frets.com is a great resource, here's their link on neck relief and buzz diagnosis http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/Technique/Setup/BuzzDiagnosis/Relief/relief.html

Good luck!

Credit card gauge is good, but high precision requires a spark plug gauge. It will tell you exactly the distance between rollers. I understand commercial breweries target 1-1.2mm and home brewers are in the 1.2-1.4mm range.

Please don't use that coin to gap your plugs. Take it back. Buy a proper feeler gauge. https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25025-Blade-Master-Feeler/dp/B000BYGIR4

Those things are known ESPECIALLY on our iridium tipped plugs, to damage and crack them. You are still running the risk of damaging them and having your misfire.

Unless you are printing PETG, or the paper you choose is a different thickness, or if it's swolen from humidity.

Paper isn't the best tool, among other things it varies in thickness, a set of feeler gauges (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BYGIR4) is a much better tool for this.

But I have completely quit using it. I now print out this link https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2187071 and, as it's printing, manually adjust the bed screws until it's printing with uniform squeeze out and the print looks good. This works great for printers without automatic bed leveling like mine.

I been using feeler gauges from amazon. and measuring the distance at .038 MM.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BYGIR4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Minatures can be a whole different beast, but its rewarding to pull it off on an FDM. I would lower your layer height to one or two nozzle volumes (if you have a .04 do .04 or 0.08) and slow everything real far down. I have a Wanhao v2.1, but it should be about the same premise. they take a while but turn out great. support helps too.

Feeler gauge -- just a more accurate way to check the bed height, and you will have a physical number you can report if you are having issues. Just make sure to adjust the bed until you feel slight resistance, kinda like what you do with paper. I think your printer can accept a auto bed leveler (control board should allow it) you may want to look into it. Looks like you have a metal bed, so inductive might work best for you. It will really help out.

I use this feeler gauge, and keep mine set at 0.03"

Possible in-transit repair materials for a micrometeoroid puncture of an MCT (including fuel or propellant tanks) include:

• blind rivets (can be made of metal or other materials)
  
  
• toggle bolts holding an external patch
  
  
• adhesive patch
  
  
• liquids or putties
  
  
• fuel/oxygen compatible repair plugs, as previously described.
  
  And with luck, they'll never need to be used. But worth taking up a few pounds payload mass, nevertheless.

A true pro will dismount the tire from the rim and patch the tire on the inside. Us DIYers use a plug instead, and yes, you can do it yourself. Pick up a plug kit at your local auto parts house or discount store. Get one with a T-handle. It doesn't have to be an expensive kit but the very cheapest ones have a "screwdriver" handle and won't give you enough leverage. This video will show you the procedure. DO NOT repair a puncture outside the tread area!

This works out to $1.60 per repair. It's super easy too.

Happy to help! All-season tires aren't bad at anything, but they aren't great either. Better than summer tires by a long shot, but aren't really comparable to winter tires in the snow. That being said, I have all-season tires on my van since it's kind of hard to carry an extra set with you to switch out twice a year when you're also living in said van.

Just make sure to get an allignment to lengthen the life of the tires, keep them properly inflated, and replace them when they get down to the wear markers to avoid hydroplaning and/or losing control in the snow. If you do happen to get stuck, don't stand on the throttle, as you'll only dig the hole deeper. Get out, let some air out of the drive tires to increase the contact surface, and then feather the throttle on and off to rock yourself out of the ditch/patch of snow. It's also a good idea to keep a simple tire plug kit and portable air compressor on hand just in case.

You can also get a tire patch kit and do it yourself, takes 10 minutes and costs less than $10. You can buy it at Walmart, or any auto parts store. It should contain the following: Rubber strips, rubber cement, and a plunging tool.

https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034--T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K

Like that. It comes with instructions, but the gist is to coat a rubber strip in rubber cement, then fold it to form a "U" shape on the tip of the tool. Plunge the strip through the hole, then snip off the excess. The "U" shape allows for the rubber strip to maintain pressure against the hole. You can also do this yourself if you have some good rubber laying around from another tire, some rubber cement, and a screwdriver.

That sucks. You could try taking it to a tire shop to see if they can plug it. Alternatively, I used a plug kit on my motorcycle when I got a flat - it held up well until I replaced the tire.

Oh, Snake wasn't referring to a brand. Slime is fine for brand. Snake is the type of kit, with the "strings" or whatever they are called, I have always heard them called snakes haha. this type of patch As sold here Also for a pump I have this one Its nice with the flexible hose so you can push it against the ground with your weight. Also the gauge is nice so you know when your done, I have tested this up to 100psi had no problems. It rides in my bag while I dirt bike, so it holds up well to abuse.

Edit, I just decided to check, and go figure your bike might have tubes... I don't know for sure, one site said this:
Custom has no tubes.
900 Classic, 900 LT, and 1500 Classic have tubes.
1500 Nomad, Mean Streak, and all 1600 and V2K are tubeless.
If you has tubes then the snake kit wont work. Also a tube repair roadside on that bike might be a bit extreme... You have to pull the wheel off, pull the tire off the wheel, patch the tube with a tube repair kit, then reinstall it all. I do this on dirt bike tires all the time, but with a road bike, I wouldn't bother trying. Just hope you don't catch a flat on the go.

http://www.uniroyaltires.com/catalog/nailgard_pop.html

http://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-A-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K

This. It's not a bad idea to keep a kit in the trunk with a little pump or something.

https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K/ref=lp_15706711_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1541712372&sr=1-5

repair it for like 7$

https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K/ref=sr_1_6?crid=M6TBSPCEHIWV&keywords=slime+tire+plug+kit&qid=1550703204&s=gateway&sprefix=slime+tire+plug+%2Caps%2C197&sr=8-6

I've run many, many patched tires. Learn to use the cat-turd plugs. You can get them at walmart or amazon. These things should be hard to put in and they will NOT come out. It helps (becomes possible) if you remove the valve core (and thus all the air) before trying to push the plug in from the outside. Use the rubber cement as lubricant, if it dries, you're not going to be able to push the plug in. The advantage is you do not have to remove the tire. I run them down to the belt after that, but never over 100mph (assuming it was a proper Z rated tire).

Now that I think about it OP, why not just patch it yourself? Patch kits are super cheap, and it looks like you have the tire off anyway? Tons of Youtube videos on how to do this, and it would only take you probably 15 mins? Worth a shot maybe?

https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K/ref=sr_1_29?crid=20AWTIR9UX41A&keywords=tire+patch+kits&qid=1573233453&sprefix=tire+patch+%2Caps%2C206&sr=8-29

I wasn't trying to be a braggart. Sorry if I came off that way. I wouldn't carry the one I have if I wasn't so hard on my power chair but, chasing my three little ones around takes a toll on things. Unfortunately, power chairs are generally designed for people who spend their time indoors. I am not one of those people.
Have you ever considered packing a [tire puncture repair kits](Slime 1034-A T-Handle Tire Plug Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ET525K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_l2ytybN3YP6DJ) in your car?

Edit; I give up on links!

good reveiews

https://www.amazon.com/Stop-Go-1075-Standard-Plugger/dp/B0018EUDHW

I have and have used this on my truck

https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K/ref=pd_lpo_263_bs_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=MVDGZMH8C9SY4QH3X0GV

I use the most basic slime kit but I can't seem to find it online, I think it's a one-off for auto parts stores. But the deluxe version is on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K

It's also sold at Walmart and in many auto parts places. I think it's slightly cheaper in store and some places carry the kit without the rubber cement.

They aren't anyway. Mechanics hate them. Have a portable air compressor (that has a cig lighter cable) and rubber plugs. It's cheap and much safer.

From Amazon: Plug Kit

From Amazon: Air Compressor

Tire patch kit and a bike pump.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ET525K/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522772498&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=tire+patch+kit

This thing helps some: https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K

This. Kool Stop Tire Bead Jack.

Or this. CrankBrothers Speedier tire lever.

If you come across a tire that you can't put on with your hands, use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K (check your LBS first though)

Best $15 I ever spent

I've got Marathons on two bikes - work great, no punctures, roll fast, easy to mount, and the casing is relatively compliant (vs Specialized Armadillos - yikes!)
With regard to mounting issues, I've often found that mounting up high quality (read $$$) tires to low quality (inexpensive) rims usually yields sore thumbs. For instance, running Schwalbe DH tires on my Mavic 521s is a snap. OP's bike is on the lower end of the dollar spectrum, so I might suggest a tire mounting tool like this. I have had one for years - it's never failed to help with stubborn tires!

EDIT: try using one of these, before you use heat. I'm surprised your LBS didn't have one, though.
I didn't realize they were carbon. I was going to suggest hitting it with a heat gun and then attempting to just press tire down and out of the bead like you would on a car or motorcycle, before trying to get up under it with the lever. But heat gun is likely too aggressive for the carbon, i would hit it with a blowdryer though for sure.

A tire bead jack will do the job. It uses leverage to stretch the tire and a plastic lip to protect the rim.

Some tires go on some rims easily, its much more difficult on others.

There are tire bead jack tools like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K. They work pretty well, but I do not usually find them necessary.

One thing that can help is to go around the tire and push the already mounted parts into the rim as far as they will go. This can create just a little more slack to get the remaining portion on.

This is the "nuclear option" for really difficult tires: https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K/ref=pd_sim_468_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BZE8P13X5X94NM8JY176

I've never found soapy water to be much help, but talcum powder is sometimes effective.

Consider buying a tire jack instead of a tire lever:

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K/ref=sr_1_25?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1483033192&sr=1-25&keywords=tire+lever

Otherwise, I do second the support for Pedros levers, they're way better than most others.

This is good advice, if you still have issues, deflate the tube a bit. If that still doesn't work, one of these are totally a lifesaver for the extremely stubborn combinations: Kool Stop Tire Bead Jack

Kool Stop Tire Bead Jack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AYML7K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I have those same marathons and I’ve had that same problem. I just bought one of those cool stop tools- I Highly recommend it.

You need a kool-stop bead jack. It will make any tire installation a breeze.


Kool Stop Tire Bead Jack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AYML7K/


On mobile, sorry for the formatting.

Kool stop tire jack lever

I run wire bead gatorskins.. nuff said

I recently bought that tire in a 28 and a 32. No problem on size going from a 28 to a 32 you should be able to use the same tubes as well.

Just a heads up though - they are HELL to get on the rim. Have a shop do it or invest in a dedicated INSTALL tool like this - not just a set of levers

Watch some youtube videos so you get the basic gist if this is not your first rodeo but I suggest the tool I linked to - or else you better buy a couple of patch kits or extra tubes for when you pinch the tube while trying to lever the tire bead over the rim.

PRO TIPS Throw the tire outside in the hot sun for a couple hours to expand/soften the compound and use liquid soap to lube the contact areas. Hope this helps.

I've got a set of Pedro's tire levers, plus a tire jack to help get the tire back on. It's still an incredibly daunting task. I'm sure I'll get faster with practice, but I still hate doing it.

First one I ever got was an Autel MaxiScan M300. It doesn't suggest fixes, but that's what I used google for! Worked great on ever car I used it on

edit: I still use it when all I want to do is read or clear codes and not read live data

> OBDII

Like this one here

This is a very common Subaru code. It ranges from seemingly "unfixable" (i.e., reflash the ECU to ignore it), catalytic converter replacement, rear O2 sensor, exhaust leak, all kinds of stuff. I wouldn't worry too much unless other symptoms/codes appear. My car throws a P0420 about every 1000-2000 miles (edit: and still gets high 20's average and drives fine).

In the meantime, buy one of these so you can read and clear your own OBD-II codes.

http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS300-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B001LHVOVK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1406781491&sr=8-2&keywords=obdii

Exact one I bought. Very simplistic but it worked for reseting my codes. Now, what you may encounter, is the CEL will come back on because whatever tripped the CEL in the first place will likely trip again if you've removed a component. Just a heads up.

I bought this one about a year ago, no complaints. Cheap. Easy to use. However, it doesn't look like it's sold directly by Amazon anymore, and I'm sometimes wary of the overseas third-party sellers. In general, you probably won't go wrong with any of the readers sold on Amazon with hundreds of good reviews.

http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS300-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B001LHVOVK/

If you go to Amazon and type in "OBD2 scanner" you'll get tons of different results. They have all kinds of scan tools nowadays. The more expensive ones with really advanced features can even cost thousands of dollars and look like freaking Ipads!

But a basic $15 scanner like this is still great to have. It's super simple to use. You plug it into your cars OBDII port (located in the driver's side footwell, usually somewhere near the hood release latch.) Then flip your key to the "on" position (don't turn the engine on, just turn on the ignition such that you can use the car's accessories and unlock the steering column.)

From there you can pull codes as well as erase them. The scanner will come with more detailed instructions but it's pretty self-explanatory. The thing only has 2 buttons so if you can use a computer or cell phone it shouldn't be a challenge.

Yes. Its illegal for them to clear them in a lot of states now. Personally, I just bought a cheap scanner off amazon that works fine. But if you ask them to 'loan' you the trouble code scanner they wont be there to supervise you. You might have to hand them your license while you do it though.

It won't help you now but for the future you should get a reader. There is a cheap one ($17.10 with Prime) on Amazon. I have had it for awhile and it comes in very handy.

http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS300-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B001LHVOVK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373629767&sr=8-1&keywords=odbii+reader

This is a great post, but I do have a couple of counterpoints to make:

• Don't change your car's oil every 3000 miles. Follow the owner's manual instead. Most cars being driven today only need oil changes every 5000 miles.
  
  
• You can buy an ODB-II scanner for as little as $30, but many auto parts stores (Autozone, Advanced Auto) will pull the codes for you without charge.

So just disconnect the negative for a few minutes and drive around? I bought a an ODBII reader that worked for another https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001LHVOVK/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am hoping with disconnecting the negative on the battery and driving around with this plugged in that I will see evap ready. I found it on a toyota4runner forum that some guy used it when he had same issue until it read evap ready. It will arrive Sunday and than I will play around and hope on day off I will be able to pass inspection

I've got a 2011 wk2 that's had more than its share of problems and this thing was well worth the $16.

But yeah, with the factory warranty you won't pay a penny to have whatever the problem is fixed.

Something like the Lisle Broken Spark Plug Remover for the 3v Ford Tritons?

If you're ever doing these plugs; you gotta have the removal tool. Once the plug breaks, this tool is pretty slick and even the rear plugs (which are most common to break) aren't that big a deal to get out.

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-LIS65600-Broken-Remover-Engines/dp/B00267PZUK

They make a $63 tool to pull the broken plugs out (It was only $50 when I bought it).

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-LIS65600-Broken-Remover-Engines/dp/B00267PZUK

I broke 3 and the tool took them out no problem. They have a revised version of the plug. I'm not sure how it holds up. I haven't replaced the new plugs yet.

I'm trying to keep the other products on Amazon. I'm doing this all on Saturday and I have Prime, so might as well use it.

Would this work? http://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-4607-Velcro-Backing/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1395241399&sr=8-13&keywords=5%27%27+polishing+pads

You can totally DIY paint correct with a dual action polisher.

Here’s a straightforward shopping list and guide. This will knock out most if not all of your swirl marks.

Shopping List:

Machine Polisher - PORTER-CABLE Variable Speed Polisher, 6-Inch (7424XP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002654I46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l7SADbKPP1Q6Q

Backing Pad - Astro 4607 5" PU Velcro Backing Pad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_T7SADbZ187WK1

Bugging Pads - Chemical Guys HEX_3KIT_5 5.5" Buffing Pad Sampler Kit (4 Items), 16. Fluid_Ounces, 4 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J588UNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_d9SADb8WF470V

Compound - Meguiar's G17220 Ultimate Compound, 20 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W5HCZ9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_M9SADb0ADEMZJ

Finishing Polish - Meguiar's M20532 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish, 32 Fluid Ounces, 1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O7PNXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_i-SADbWXADMQT

Wax - Your preference

Here’s the guide:

1 – Tool Prep

Set aside the dual-action polisher, backing pad, and foam pads. Remove the included backing plate that’s already attached to the Porter Cable polisher, use the included wrench. Re-attached using the Astro pad, secure tightly.

2 – Wash

Wash your car by hand, preferably using the two-bucket method. Afterward, move the car into your garage or shaded area. You’ll want to be out of direct sunlight, keeping the paint as cool as possible.

3 – Clay Bar

Clay bar the entire car. Make sure to wipe down the finish afterward, keeping it as clean as possible.

4 – Compound Buffing

Grab your machine polisher, the Ultimate Compound, and the orange pad. Attach the pad to the polisher using the velcro backing, make sure it’s centered. Prime the pad by dabbing 8-10 dime-sized amounts across the surface. Start working one section at a time, around 2 x 2 feet. Before you turn on the polisher, press the pad against the paint. Compound polish should be soaked within the pad, along with the paint. Press the pad against the surface, set to speed setting 2-3, and begin spreading the compound around in quick passes. Then, turn it up to 5-6 and let the fun begin. Use overlapping, slow passes. Once you’re done, wide the area clean with a microfiber towel.

5 – Inspection

Check out your results of the first section. Go over the area again if most of the swirl marks aren’t gone. If the swirls are gone, but a light haze is present, don’t worry. The finishing polish will take care of it.

6 – Polish Buffing

Use the M205 Finishing Polish with the white pad. Follow the same steps from before. Prime the pad and rub it against the paint before turning on the polisher. Use a max speed of 3-4 with medium pressure. The Finishing Polish will take care of the rest of the haze and micro scratches. Once you’re finished with the first section, wipe clean.

7 – Inspection

Again, check out the results of the M205 Finishing Polish. It’s doubtful you’ll need more than one application, but double-check all the same. If it’s looking great, move on and finish the rest of your car.

8 – Wax

Your paint is looking great. The swirl marks are gone, leaving a bright clean finish. Apply the wax using the black foam pad. Use very light pressure, letting the pad float along with the paint. You’re just coating your car’s finish, that’s all. Wipe clean with a microfiber towel.

I would buy this DA:
http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407291588&sr=8-1&keywords=porter+cable+7424+xp

This backing plate:
http://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-4607-Velcro-Backing/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_y

3 of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-BUFX_102HEX5-Hex-Logic-Medium-Heavy/dp/B0040MI9H0/ref=pd_sim_hi_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=0NJJRSFYV45X3EWAS3NA


2 of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-BUFX_104HEX5-Hex-Logic-Light-Medium/dp/B0041MVQ4M/ref=pd_sim_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=11TRQVZC789CNJ8EXED1


1 of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-BUFX_106HEX5-Hex-Logic-Finishing/dp/B0042TTIYO/ref=pd_sim_auto_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=08HEKJEWM7H5NRFGAQNH

Pretty sure they are all compatible with the backing plate.

just get this: https://www.amazon.com/Astro-4607-Velcro-Backing-Pad/dp/B003CH3Z8W

A couple of notes I'll throw in, unless your car is heavily, and I mean HEAVILY contaminated, you shouldn't use the medium, you should use a fine. I bought an Astro 5inch backing pad on Amazon[https://www.amazon.com/Astro-4607-Velcro-Backing-Pad/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=pd_sim_263_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=TXCWQPY3N4D5D1SA85JP]

Everyone has their own opinions on paint detailing. I don't mind spending a little time up front if the results are long-lasting. My approach has worked well on multiple cars in our family stable, both single stage (93 Mariner Blue Miata) and clear coat (95 Merlot Mica Miata) among others. I arrived at this list through research on /r/autodetailing and elsewhere in conjunction with my own trial and error.

I use a DA polisher from Harbor Freight. It is very effective and safer, in that it makes it more difficult for a non-professional to take off too much paint. Watch for sales or use a coupon and the cost isn't bad. Their polishing pads do not last so don't buy them. Plus the disc cuts into the foam--bad design. I bought a 5" disc instead and a set of pads separately. I read that 5" was better than 6" and so far, so good. Get a bunch of microfiber cloths also.

+1 for clay bar before you begin with polishing. Get a kit with detail spray and do that first. You'll be surprised how much stuff is actually on your paint that you can't see. Leaving that there can put grit into your polish work.

Meguiar's Ultimate Compound to start, using stiffer pad. Follow their directions.

Meguiar's Ultimate Polish next using a medium pad. This step might seem unnecessary but you'll see a difference before/after. This one wipes off before drying--see instructions. When done you should have a mirror-like finish.

Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant for the last step. I LOVE this stuff. A little goes a long way. It comes off so easily, unlike some other sealants (like Klasse--OMG, it's a workout) yet it lasts. You can put it on with the DA polisher, softest pad, or by hand.

Note that I use the DA only for putting stuff ON, never for removing. This video is a bit annoying but shows a good method for removing/buffing.

Some people like to do an additional stage with wax. I haven't done that but maybe I'll try it someday. Seems like the benefit would be minimal compared to the work required.

Finally, a good car wash that won't strip your product. Never use dish detergent. If you do that, you shouldn't have to use the first compound again. Polish and sealant next year or end of season should keep you looking good.

Very last thing: take and post a photo of your work!

oh boy now you are getting in detailing! what your going to need is meguiars 205 finish polish, a DA polisher. and a lake country orange cutting pad and a backing pad (theres one that comes with the harbor freight one, but its considered trash)

https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-57-amp-heavy-duty-dual-action-variable-speed-polisher-69924.html

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B001O7PNXC?keywords=meguairs+205&qid=1536994013&sr=8-1&ref=sr_1_1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CH3Z8W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

From my research, this is the one people recommend.

Haha whoops!

Here we go: Astro Pneumatic 4607 5" PU Velcro Backing Pad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_JC2.ub12GYZ6D
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_JC2.ub12GYZ6D

You can get one on amazon:

5 Inch Backing Plate

however, its perfect for 6.5" pads and this plate works well with the HF pads

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CH3Z8W/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

heres a pic i took of it with HF 6" pads

http://i.imgur.com/SYid1BZ.jpg

An adequate digital multimeter can be had pretty cheap, here's one for 8 bucks. MVP2, or iTase VV V3 mentioned below, will do the trick. But if you ever want to get into mechanical mods you'll want the voltage function of the DMM.

Basically any of them that look like this: http://101vape.com/meters/170-ohms-meter.html

eBay probably has the least expensive variety. Some builds are better than others.

Or this voltmeter: http://www.amazon.com/Digital-VOLT-Meter-Voltmeter-Multimeter/dp/B005EK3NRS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1395144871&sr=8-3&keywords=ohm+reader

http://www.amazon.com/Digital-VOLT-Meter-Voltmeter-Multimeter/dp/B005EK3NRS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372513374&sr=8-1&keywords=multimeter

Well they certainly aren't capped, that's not good. I would get a voltmeter and check if there is power going to it. If there is power going to it you need to figure out which breaker its on before you try to cap it. If its live and you touch the wires together it could throw the main breaker for your entire house or catch on fire. Once you know the power is off you can cap the other wires that aren't, cap each wire individually if you don't want to figure out where they go.

Well hell. that blows.

Trying link again


Also...when you get back from the store, see this

This is a good one at a great price, specially if you have amazon prime.
http://www.amazon.com/Digital-VOLT-Meter-Voltmeter-Multimeter/dp/B005EK3NRS/ref=zg_bs_14244471_1

kanthal in bulk

edit: also a multimeter 2ndoption if you have nothing to gauge the resistance it will be needed

Shipping from china is slow

http://www.hoosiervapes.com/Empire-Style-K100-Telescope_p_176.html

http://www.hoosiervapes.com/IGO-L-dripping-RBA_p_207.html

http://www.hoosiervapes.com/MNKE-18650-battery-1500mah-High-drain-_p_248.html

http://www.hoosiervapes.com/Kanthal-A1-Resistance-Wire-5-Ft_p_199.html

http://www.hoosiervapes.com/Silica-Wick-36-25-mm-or-3-MM_p_164.html

http://www.amazon.com/NiteCore-IntelliCharger-i2-Charger-charging/dp/B009JMDD9U

http://www.amazon.com/Digital-VOLT-Meter-Voltmeter-Multimeter/dp/B005EK3NRS

http://www.amazon.com/4pcs-Panasonic-CGR18650CH-Li-ion-Battery/dp/B00AKQQ990

It looks like people have mostly got you started here in terms of supplies. In terms of tools though, this is what I keep in my rebuilding stuff (linking to Amazon just because its easier):

• Small screwdriver set OR Hex set OR a combo set. Which one will depend on the RBA you get, but eventually you'll probably find yourself with ones that have Phillips and Hex screws.
  
• Butane Torch. You can get this same one on Fasttech for $4 if you don't mind the shipping time.
  
• Wire cutters, either full size or micros
  
• Pliers, I also have a set of channel locks accessible, but not in my normal kit, mainly to try and get my Bombshell Stinger apart
  
• A generic desk light or something like helping hands can save a lot of headaches.
  
• Cheap multimeters can be found from $5 - $20
  
• Exacto knife because knives always come in handy at some point (rule #9)
  
  Other generic stuff:
  
  
• Toothpicks (great for wrapping coils around)
  
• Cotton swabs, cotton balls and paper towels
  
• Bic lighter
  
• Scissors for cutting wick (I use the wire cutters, but if you have micros, 3mm wick might get messy/frayed)

Now you're making me wonder if BMWs require a special device. The one I have is this one from Amazon. It works via bluetooth through an app called Torque. It might not work on your car, but we can give it a shot. Is it drivable?

Here you go - http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-diagnostics-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS

Edit: Not iPhone friendly.

I had bad luck with those little blue ones. They're good because they are small, but for some reason mine couldn't talk to a few cars I tried it on. A friend had a similar experience.

https://smile.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/

That one is a bit more, but it's worked every time I used it and seems to connect to BT quicker.

Another thing you could do is to pick up a bluetooth OBD II plugin and download Torque on your phone (android only I think). You can check the fault code there and it will give you the exact code and some other great information that would serve you well before you buy the car.

All in all, its about a $35 investment, plus you can use it elsewhere.

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en

I've been using the BAFX OBDII for Android without any issues. I got it on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/?tag=myelecarfor-20&&pldnSite=1

What year is the Van? If it has an OBD2 port, you can purchase this OBD2 Bluetooth Scan Tool and get the app called Torque Pro and follow this video to check emission monitors on your van. You can check your monitor readiness and can go in to get it tested when all monitors are ready. Or you can use the scan tool and app to diagnose what is causing the problem. Might be a lazy O2 sensor.

Any auto parts store will scan your stored DTCs for free. Step #1 is to determine what DTCs are stored.

If your CEL (check engine light) has been on, then there are DTCs stored. If your CEL was flashing, that means the engine was misfiring, big time. If your CEL is flashing there's a risk of doing engine and/or cat damage ($$$).

If you are determined to troubleshoot and fix it yourself, then a scan tool that does live data will show you what's wrong.

In general, a scan tool will tell you about all your sensors, or TPS (throttle position sensor) O2 sensor, ECT (engine coolant temp), MAP (manifold absolute pressure), etc. And 'live data' means you can see what they are doing when the engine is misfiring.

There are two ways to get a scanner, either a dedicated scanner or with a smarphone app.

1. Dedicated scanner: Innova makes some easy to use scan tools, about $120 for a Innova 3040e.
   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07525GNFR?ref=emc_b_5_t
   
   
2. Scanner APP: Most scanner 'apps' are $5 and a bluetooth OBDII gizmo is about $20.
   
   App:
   
   Torque
   https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en
   
   OBD Auto Doctor
   https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/obd-auto-doctor/id908897183?mt=8
   
   Blue Tooth gizmo:
   https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS

I'd get a code scanner. You can get bluetooth ones from Amazon for $30 (I use this one by BAFX) and use them with Torque if you have android (or if you have a laptop with bluetooth, there's a few applications that work).

Sometimes you can rent/borrow them from AutoZone or Advance Auto Parts but I'd call ahead before making the trip over there. Obviously getting the car there won't be easy.

It could be just a loose sensor cable, vacuum hose or pinched fuel line from the whack your car got. Code reader will give you a really good place to start. Hopefully it's something simple.

You buy one of these bluetooth OBDII readers and plug it into the port on your car. All cars 1996 and newer have this port. Download the app Torque and connect your phone to the bluetooth reader. You can then view all sorts of data from your car computer and retrieve any check engine codes which you can look up online. You can also clear the code which will turn off the check engine light.
This was a lifesaver for me back in college. I was driving around a car that needed some exhaust work but didn't really have much money to put in it. By checking the code I could tell if it had a problem that needed to be addressed or if it was just something to do with the exhaust system.

http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-diagnostics-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_srch_res_rtr_1 Thats the one I bought. Many of the reviews from users say it works great with Subaru. Quite a few of them specifically sited they worked with their 2011 WRX. Thats why I chose that specific adapter.

Buy a reader like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WCZwDbNNHPTVQ and the torque app on your phone. Figure out the problem by diagnosing yourself and save a lot of money.

invest in an odbii scanner. Like one of these: http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-diagnostics-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412013499&sr=8-1&keywords=odb2+bluetooth

sure, takes the thrill out of guessing what the dealer is going to find.

You can buy things like this (you can get them cheaper on eBay) which diagnose the fault with your vehicle and tell you what's up. They send the readings to your phone. You want to get the right one for your vehicle. (I don't have one of these yet, but reviews suggest they work pretty well.)

OBD2 reader

Android app

This one coupled with the torque pro app ($5) is a popular yet affordable choice: https://smile.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B005NLQAHS/

this guy explains how to look at a car and as a car guy I can say he is very through. Now would be a good time to invest in a OBD (on board diagnostic code reader. This is the one I use. I do not know about any that work for iPhone; if you need; pm me and I can look into finding you one that does not suck.

If you put in your due diligence you know if it can pass inspection and if not what it would take. This all affects your bargaining chips. Do not be afraid of offending the seller with your offer or how they might react. It is your money and you are going to make sure every dollar takes you as far as it can.

Since you do not know how to work on cars I suggest sticking to american and Japanese cars. European cars are designed differently; require different tools and IMO harder to work on. (I am sure they can say the same about american cars)

Anything built before the 08 financial crash stick to Japanese. There are a handful of good american SUV's made before then like the Jeep Cherokee; the one with the 4.0 inline 6. As for Japanese; toyota, honda, & mitsubishi are your best bets.

You are looking not only for something reliable; but something that is not going to cost an arm and a leg and require you to move a mountain trying to fix it. All cars will give you problems. I can fix just about anything outside of the engine and transmission; so that affects what I will buy. I can save a lot of money buying something that needs a days work rather than something working flawlessly right now. When you get in and drive it; it had better feel like the engine and transmission are working flawlessly. Any jerkieness, gear slippage, anything other than that engine and transmission running smooth as butter; walk away. There is nothing cheap and easy about internal engine and transmission work.

One more thing; decide whether you are buying something you want to trade in sell later or something you will run until it is dead. This affects your decision on what to buy right now.

You can call an insurance company and get a ballpark figure of what the car you are looking at will cost. My '04 MDX will cost about the same as the same year Mercedes e320 or toyota 4runner.

So you did your homework and decided what you are buying.

The owner signs the title over to you. You get the car insured, then you take the insurance and title to the local DMV and they will give you a temporary registration and a temporary license plate. Some states will give you a permanent license plate right there.

You take your plate and head back to the car; you put the plate on and start driving. You will probably need to get the car inspected. You head on over to the local inspection station and let them do their thing. If you fail they will tell you exactly why so you know what to do.

If you pass; they give you a sheet of paper saying that you did and you take that back to the DMV and they will issue you a permanent registration.

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS

This is the exact one I have. Connects to Bluetooth on your phone (only works with Android) and you download whichever app you fancy. I use torque lite to read the codes

You can goto an autoparts store and they will read the code for free.

Buy a bluetooth OBD adapter that works with FORScan. This software has ALOT of power and acts like the dealer tools. I reprogrammed my ABS module when I rebuilt my 2014 (replaced module with a used one). Mazda themselves couldnt do it because their software can only writes the software but does not re-write over a module with software already on it.

What I used:

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1517639130&sr=8-4&keywords=obd2+bluetooth

This is what I use. Worked on 8+ vehicles so far zero issue. The Bluetooth sensors are a game changer. I love having diagnostics on my dash while I'm driving and trying to resolve an issue. Makes everything so much easier.

[heres one I bought figured it be nice to see a link] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_xlVBDbJ0V0M1V)

This one worked well for me, I bought one of the little blue cheap ones and it caused my ABS compute to go nuts on my toyota and wouldn't work on our ford. This one works fine with both IIRC.

http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-diagnostics-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS

Although I get so much use out (datalogging) of it I might buy one of the nice $70 ones in the future.

I've got this one right here that worked with no issue

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B005NLQAHS

BAFX

I use it in my 04 Subaru wrx with the bafx adapter http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_Yi9rub0RQMT7Y

Very useful tool for check engine lights and general diagnostics. Makes an incredible amount of data available to the home mechanic.

buy on of these https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS
and download the torque app

I use this + the torque app and it works great
https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1543017063&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=Bluetooth+obd2&psc=1

Sure, I use this. List of customizations. Unfortunately it looks like it's only for the 5th gens.

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B005NLQAHS

These are SUPER handy to have around. The one above works on Android (using the Torque app) , although this reddit post suggests using a different model if you have an iPhone.

For best (read: accurate) results, make sure your dongle uses a genuine up-to-date ELM327 and not a bootleg knockoff running outdated firmware. (A Chinese company got hold of an older version that didn't have the security bits set right and did a ROM dump to get some of the firmware, which has gone into mass reproduction for the cheap ELM knockoffs. The real ELM, OTOH, has had several firmware revisions since then and isn't missing entire blocks of program code.)

This is the one I have as a spare/quick-and-dirty code checker. It works well, it's pretty accurate compared to my more expensive scanners, and it's a legit ELM327 running new firmware.

 

There are also new competitors to the ELM327, namely the STN1110, STN1170, STN2120, which claim to offer faster performance and a larger number of supported protocols. However, I have no experience with these as only a scant handful of dongles are using them.

I'm looking into getting this one. Well rated, cheap, and it works with the Torque app.

But I haven't tried it

I had the same lights and the car was running fine but I had the p0a93 which is a bad inverter pump generally (it's a cheap $60 for parts and coooant fix). So I replaced and I was still getting nothing. It turned out one of the connectors up towards the firewall that must control that pump had the wires chewed through by a rodent. So I got the wires resoldered up and everything was working again.

Btw every car owner should one of these Bluetooth obd 2 readers it will save you tons of money and headaches because then you can know whether your check engine light is something that can wait or has to be fixed now BAFXducts Bluetooth Diagnostic OBDII Reader/Scanner for Android Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uQHzCbPA8DFFV

I would just invest the 20 bucks on a Bluetooth dongle. https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS. I've used that one for a few years now.

If you just need to clear codes then disconnecting and reconnecting the battery will do that for you. If you want a code reader anyway then I bought this code reader that has worked well with the Torque app. Only complaint is that it only updates about every second so horsepower, torque, and 0-60 don't get good readings. No idea if it is the dongle, app, or just what OBDII can do but something to be aware of.

Drive time cycle for a misfire shouldn't be all that long. Drive it around for a day or 2 and then check the monitors.

FYI These things work fairly well

BAFX Products Bluetooth Diagnostic... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

We just got this one on Amazon for $22.41. I don't know if there are better ones, but I don't think that you necessarily have to spend a whole lot more to get a decent one, especially if Amazon is an option. I realize that it may not be for some people.

I've been using this one for a few years and it works well with my 98 V70

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS

I bought one off amazon, it's 21.99 and only works with android but it works amazingly. BAFX Products 34t5 Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool for Android Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_N4J7yb8239RKN

You can go to autozone or wherever they check for you then look up online as code is generic. Each brand has their own specific meaning for the code. Before my cobb I used a Bluetooth obd2 reader 20$ online then used torque app from Android store free version to check and clear codes. It also does some pretty cool stuff for the paid version. The obd2 reader is small which I liked. I had 1 like this. https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS

This is the one I have

To go with the other reply from the Ross-Tech (worker?/user?/employee?) you can use it for that but there's a delay in the reading from a half second to a full second. It's not really all that noticeable unless you're kind of looking for the delay, but I think you'd be much happier with a boost pod.

Edit: also, if you're jailbroken you can use the bluetooth version of the transmitter but if you aren't jailbroken then you have to use the wifi version. Now I've not used the wifi, so I can't speak for how it performs, but I'd imagine that it would actually be better than bluetooth because of the latency (delay) associated with bluetooth as opposed to wifi.

This is the one I got, along with the Torque Pro App on my samsung GS5, total of <$30 investment and makes it WAY easier to understand what is going on in your car. If you're in America and your car was made after 1996, it should have an OBD2 port

This one

BAFX Products 34t5 Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool for Android Devices

Something like this You gotta download a app like Torque or Dash command and it will tell you the code.

This is my OBDII reader and it works just fine for me, nothing really to say about it haha

Confirmed, free Torque app + dongle does oil temps and a whole host of other readings.

I have used the BAFX Products 34t5 Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool for Android Devices (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS) for about three years on two different cars with no issues.

Don;t ignore an engine light, even if it goes away. You can stop by a locak auto parts store (auto zone, reilleys, etc) and they will scan for free in most states. It could be as simple as a loose gas cap or it could be a bigger problem, but if the light is coming on at all there is definitely something wrong. Maybe just a flukey sensor, but if the sensor is flukey then it's not really giving you truthful information about what it should be monitoring. You could also buy an ODB2 bluetiooth scanner tool on amazon for like $18, plug it in, connect to your phone and you can pull the codes yourself to see whats wrong.

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481715214&sr=8-1&keywords=odb2+scanner

Like /u/rahtx said, Autozone can help you pull the error code. You can buy this from Amazon and be able to do same thing https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_10?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1481732985&sr=1-10&keywords=check+engine+code+reader

Edit - That's for Android devices, not sure what OS you use, but that's the device you need for something like that.

I just got this along with this and I no longer have to worry about my check engine light. I keep it plugged in and use my phone now to give me instantaneous fuel milage. Really changed my dring habits.

There's tons of super generic ODB2 scanners for iPhone or Android on Amazon for ~$20. Android ones tend to be Bluetooth-based, iPhone ones tend to be Wifi-based.

e.g. (only works on Android) http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=zg_bs_15707381_1

or

http://www.amazon.com/ELM327-Wireless-Diagnostic-Scanner-Smartphone/dp/B00QRE0OOA/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1453842586&sr=1-4&keywords=elm327

Torque Pro + this.

I use the paid version, but that's not necessarily due to any extra features (I'm not sure I use them, or even remember what they are). I just have a thing about paying for software that's worth it, so I just do.

The unit I bought was this one (although it's gone up to 24 bucks according to Amazon).

This method worked great for my 2015 AC. It should work on 2012ish+ tacos.

You will need a bluetooth or USB OBD adapter. You can get them fairly cheap on amazon however the standard one seems to be the BAFX tool for bluetooth. I then used a simple OBD2 Terminal app (for android, either this one or this one, can't remember I used) to send the commands.

Just be extra careful and make sure you type the commands in exactly as shown.

I am not liable for anything ever.

Edit: FYI: No matter the method, any changes of this nature are automatically reverted when the battery is disconnected.

Also grabbing an OBD scanner online and reading error codes as they happen. Has definitely saved me some money by being able to do some quick diagnostics.

[Example](BAFX Products 34t5 Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool for Android Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zntZzbHNN7FMV)

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506530759&sr=8-3&keywords=bluetooth+obd2+scanner

It works with most android scanner apps (I use carista, it's free). it cost me $20 and works great.

EDIT: also, what error code? (eg: p0400)

EDIT x2: Shot a quick question to my buddy who had issues with EGR shit not that long ago. Try replacing the gas cap. He sank about 150 bucks into his car before a new gas cap fixed his issues. It's a cheap place to start.

Here check this. Not limited to this one. Check around. https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS

My son's first car, bought this year, is an '06 9-3 2.0T as well!

These cars like to throw codes/check engine lights (CELs). Do yourself a favor and order one of these and buy "Torque Pro" from the Google Play/Apple app store. You'll have less than $30 in it all together, and it gives you some nice tools besides just the ability to read and reset codes.

As someone else said, google for any issues you have, they have likely been answered. Might as well make an account on saabcentral and saabnet. Lots of good info and knowledgeable people on those sites.

When (not if) you have to replace the coils, make sure you buy the right ones. ONLY the ones with the correct markings will work correctly. There are LOTS on the market that say they are correct, but aren't. Here's one that I know works (my son's car has 4 new ones). If you sign up for Advance's "SpeedPerks" membership (free), you'll get discounts, money back, etc. Order this stuff online, even if you're picking it up in store. Their website sometimes even has $40 off $100! Usually at least 20-30% off.

Anyways, I hope this helps, and feel free to ask any questions!

Definitely. I have this one with Torque and it works great. There are different ones and prices (I got this one for ~$14) The scanners you have just give you an error code, these give you so much more information. Plus the live data readouts with the engine running are just fun to watch.

It already exists with bluetooth.

obd ii bluetooth from amazon- $23. Maybe worth a try to reset on your own and you can read/reset fault codes using Torque Pro app, don't know if it voids warranty. worth reading into.

I use this one. It sticks out a little far so I can't leave it plugged in all the time, but it works great. I use Torque Pro for the app.

I know the boost I was getting because I was using the Torque Android app with this Bluetooth adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_iRt7ub082RP1T

The total investment is around $25 for a full scanner with live data. Check it out. It's worth it.

Edit: It will be closer to $29-30 now I guess

This is the one I use. Haven't had any issues with it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005NLQAHS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484015185&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=obd+ii+bluetooth&dpPl=1&dpID=416SaTHOpkL&ref=plSrch

Get one of these. Download an OBD app. The apps I've used will bring up specific codes and read out faults.

I will add that this may not be rock solid advice as I've heard of some newer vehicles freaking out and requiring their software to be reinstalled. If it Renegade, I wouldn't hesitate to give it a shot in your circumstances.

You may be thinking "This isn't good advice because I want to know now" and don't want to wait for shipping. I still recommend ordering one even if you explore other avenues. I bought this exact unit and it has paid for itself multiple times just in fuel savings of driving to a AutoZone/dealership.

Wish you luck and hope the best for you and your Renegade!

This is the one that was recommended to me. The previous BT and USB ones wouldn't even connect to my Honda Pilot, but this one did without a hitch at all. And those other ones would work sometimes with other cars (Eclipse, Civic, etc)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the one I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use it with Torque Pro on Android.

Download Torque on your phone and buy something like this (this is the one I use):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

or go to an autoparts store and have them hook up their scan tool and pull the code.

There's really no point in guessing, as it could be anything.

I have this it's reliable, cheap, and it works good. It's bit bulky so if you have the correct transmission, you might hit your foot while shifting.

However torque pro app still have log issues and UI is absolute garbage.I wish someone would come up with a better app.

I agree here. I bought my Bluetooth dongle from Amazon and use the Torque app, which is available only for Android. I do use the paid version, however, and it works wonderfully.

Beware of some of the cheap-o Bluetooth adapters on eBay as some might not be able to work with the CANBUS protocol. Just make sure the eBay seller has a decent return policy if you do buy on there.

The app + Bluetooth adapter combination works great for me. It makes it easy to look up codes and save them. If you want more information for a code than just a quick one line description, the app takes you to a website that displays more information about it. It's pretty slick, cheap, and more handy than some of the regular OBDII scanners with the built-in screens.

For anyone looking to do this be sure to read the reviews. I know that some of the cheap Bluetooth adapters don't work with every make of car (or I've read that this is the case, at least with fords).

That being said there are some that work pretty universally... Just do some research before clicking "buy" on the first adapter you find.

Edit - Just got back to my computer and could look it up. This is the specific Bluetooth OBDII adapter I've got which so far has worked fine on Ford, GM, Dodge (Jeep), VW, and probably a couple other makes:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have this Bluetooth reader + Torque + ActiveOBD Torque plug-in. I get the normal car info from Torque and the plugin adds some Subaru-specific readouts like CVT fluid info, AWD transfer percent, etc.

The plugin has a setting for "knocking correction". There are a ton of other ones.

Maybe 5 years ago. Hardware is negligible now a days. Just check reviews before you buy. I got this one for $18 a few years ago and have never had a problem with it.

You may have a failing DI cassette.
http://www.thesaabsite.com/93old/Saab-93-ignition.html

First, get one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/
Plug is in the footwell under the steering wheel.

Pair it with your Android (phone/tablet) running this app to read the engine codes, etc:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque

A failing DI cassette may not show a code/CEL and exhibit this behavior.

This is the one I've got. The app I use is called TorquePro (its like 4 bucks)

They aren't cheap! I have a temporary set up Currently, I'm Running this OBD 2 reader https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a android tablet (that my wife also got me) that I use for the gauges currently. Works fantastic and gives me everything I need so I don't have to worry about dropping 💴 on gauges until the end. I can't remember the app I have but it cost like maybe 5 bucks but was worth every penny. I can Get you the app I use if you want

I use this Bluetooth OBD scan tool and [Torque] (https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://play.google.com/store/apps/details%3Fid%3Dorg.prowl.torque%26hl%3Den%26referrer%3Dutm_source%253Dgoogle%2526utm_medium%253Dorganic%2526utm_term%253Dtorque%2Bandroid%26pcampaignid%3DAPPU_1_87F4VrKaFseiU9aukaAB&ved=0ahUKEwjy377Ksu7JAhVH0RQKHVZXBBQQ8oQBCBwwAA&usg=AFQjCNFBmasjEw5rJdTiTDBc3f5t8XC2DA&sig2=JEGR8OSRRjUsBe3HxTxnZQ) for Android. Works fantastic.

I was gonna ask what brand but you said you've tried multiple ones ("blue EBay"...I'm guessing a generic, no-brand). Are they all those cheap adapters (sub $10) that seem to often give users problems? Torque's dev cautioned against them but mainly because they didn't always play nice with certain vehicle manufacturers iirc.

I'm stumped, sounds like you've done all the obvious troubleshooting to verify it's not the adapter itself unless all the adapters you tried have the same problem (why I asked which ones).

I use a BAFX adapter, didn't want to pair the first time I used it after updating to M but did on the second try, connected, scanned no problem.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005NLQAHS/

I used the free version to check the error code and clear them (it was a false positive and it hasn't come back, but it would have prevented me from passing inspection)
The device I used is this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/

Pair it up with Torque or DashCommand.

This one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005NLQAHS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479392793&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=obd2+bluetooth

Woah that is cool. I was trying to get my tranny temp too, and bought one of those OBD readers (this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/). Unfortunately it doesn't seem to work for Tranny temp... is there any way I could combine your code info with this thing to make it work?

I have Torque on my android that outputs a similar map. Torque also lets you capture all kinds of data if you have an OBDII reader or even without one it would give you a map like this with speeds and elevation changes etc. Bluetooth readers have gotten cheap, i picked this one up from Amazon ($23.99 w/Prime) and it works really well- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS

Here's the one I got: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And here's the application I used called Torque for android. This is me testing it out on my tablet: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kb60-jSBGuM

It also does other things like I said checking for error codes, resetting check engine light, data logging, graphing, etc.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/

This is the one I've been using on my Gen3. It works well with every Android app I've used with it, including using Carista to remove the reverse beeping. Now it only beeps one time when I first put it into reverse.

I don't have an iPhone so I got this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS
Works fine on my 2017 with my phone & tablet.

This is the one I'm using:
http://amzn.com/B005NLQAHS

Only issues I've had with it were not being able to read any codes on a Prius, but I kinda assumed that was a hybrid thing. Seems to work well for my VW.

I suggest this as it can scan ABS and SRS codes and live data monitoring. I have this in my work truck at all times, just in case.

Autel MaxiLink ML619 CAN OBD2 Scanner Code Reader +ABS/SRS Diagnostic Scan Tool, Turns off Engine Light (MIL) and ABS/SRS Warning Lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072XH9GLW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TLgoDbWN50SAF

I’m not a fan of the phone adapter ones myself, but I’ve heard some people like this with similar options

BlueDriver LSB2 Bluetooth Pro OBDII Scan Tool for iPhone & Android https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00652G4TS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5OgoDb6XGEKRR

You can get the lower tier options that can only read/erase codes but have no SRS/ABS ability for under $50.
Autel AutoLink AL319 OBD2 Scanner Automotive Engine Fault Code Reader CAN Scan Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XE8C74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_K2goDb06ZB4RZ

https://www.amazon.com/BlueDriver-Bluetooth-Professional-iPhone-Android/dp/B00652G4TS

I bought one of these for an ABS code, was a great investment. Cheaper than a diagnostic and turns out the fix on my 08' charger was just tightening a bolt for the steering angle sensor.

It's $100.00, but well supported, still updated, and the support that you call is a real person every time (sorry I sound like a shill, but I had to call them because my sensor froze, turns out it wasn't plugged in all the way).

Requires a mobile phone, but can definitely give freeze frame / live o2 sensor data.

I've got a few suggestions, mainly for the car.

Wireless Onboard Diagnostics

Android Compatible ($70)

iPhone Compatible ($100)

Remote Starter Kit (Sale: $47 Retail $200) Unless he knows how to install it, I'd advise having it installed professionally.

Car Jumpstart Kit With Air Compressor (Sale: $80 Retail $100)

Dull knives? Make 'em sharp! Knife Sharpener (Sale: $24 Retail: $40)

Finally, since a GoPro is too pricey, try a cheaper version, the Monoprice MHD Action Camera (Sale: $104 Retail: $200) Based on the reviews, it seems like it's perpetually on sale.

I may do more sleuthing, but that's what I got so far!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00652G4TS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sU.PCbDF44J30

That’s the one I got. Worth every penny.

I've heard good thing about the BlueDriver.

There should be a stored code from the airbag light which would help with figuring out what's causing it. You won't get it with a scanner that only pulls CEL codes. A dealer could get it, or you could something like this. I have one and I was able to get ABS codes from it.

Good luck with the blend doors. I almost wish our Jeeps had the Takata airbag issue because then I'd have the dealer replace the blend doors, heater core, and a/c evap while they had the dash off to do the airbags. Just so I wouldn't have to worry about them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00652G4TS?psc=1

Buddy has this one, outputs PDF and sends to email.

These are extremely helpful, and work great

Also for flushing and bleeding the coolant you can use one of those funnel kits to expedite the bleeding process. Just use it combination with the two bleeder valves up front.

Make sure to fill up the reservoir tank before the engine is at operating temp, this will prevent air from getting sucked back into the system as the coolant cools and contracts. The coolant cap in your picture is hooked up right.

I would also recommend taking the res tank out and cleaning it out, the debris in the bottom gets sucked back into the engine as it cools. It's pretty easy to take out, lift the bottom outwards and it should pull up.

Definitely bleed the coolant then. I use one of these to help the bleeding process:

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY

That lets you overfill the reservoir and get coolant higher than the bleed port so you can bleed the system without having the engine running. You have to suck excess coolant out of the reservoir with a turkey baster after you finish bleeding it, but it's so much better than trying to bleed the system the old way.

Also, remember to have the heater on full when bleeding coolant or you won't get bubbles out of the heater core.

If you can justify having a $30 funnel, this thing can be a real time saver. It lets the air bubble out as you fill the radiator, so there's no need to burp afterwards.

I'm going to save you a HUGE headache with that engine and bleeding the air out of the system.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY

Those engines are a huge pain in the ass to bleed the air out because of that damn bypass pipe. The one thats leaking in the video. The bypass bleeder is going to be your biggest issue.

This funnel will let you keep the highest point above the engine, It will also let the coolant flow up and down without spilling anything. it just makes the job much much easier.

just don't put the cap on. I only run it for a couple minutes and flush it several times until it runs clear.

I also use one of these. Once the radiator is full, fill it halfway and leave it running for 20-30 squeezing the hoses periodically, then shut it off and let it suck more coolant in as it cools down.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY

That will work, but the trick I've found is to fill it from the upper tank with the cap on the radiator removed. Once the radiator is full, throw that cap back on and continue as you recommended. Also, a no-spill funnel can make life a lot easier.

This is the way to do it if you don't have one of the Spill-Free Funnels.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY

If you do decide to go through the painstaking punishment of being patient and get one your life will be substantially easier bleeding the system. You don't even have to open the bleeder screw.However, jacking up the front end also makes this method substantially more efficient. Also, squeezing the lower radiator hose can also help.

Yes, get a kit from Amazon (KINGLAKE Auto Door Clip Panel Trim Removal Tool Kits for Car Dash Radio Audio Installer Pry Tool 4Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNMLQAG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf) or wrap a flat head screw driver with electrical tape. Start from the front clip on the left and work you way towards the back. The right side also has a front clip near the windshield and you have to work your way from back to front.

Also- get 3M clear auto tape to put under the mount feet(3M Clear Scotchgard Paint Protector Vinyl Wrap .5" Wide Tape Roll (.5" x 48") https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072KF647X?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf) to prevent scratching the paint.

I want to say I used a 3/8”bit to drill through the roof gutters. Bought new bits so they were very sharp.

Sure. You're going to be running a power wire from the radar, across the top of your windshield, under the top part of your A-pillar, into the rubber trim, down to the side access, and into the fuse box. You're going to put an add-a-circuit in to put two fuses in one slot and share a fuse that turns on when the car is in accessory mode so the radar is only on when the car is on. These are the steps I took:



Step 1:
Mount the radar where you want it to be. I have mine above my mirror so it doesn't obstruct my windshield view at all and isn't visible from outside the car.



Step 2:
Plug the power wire into the radar.



Step 3:
Feel the top of the windshield where the headliner meets it. There's a roughly 1/4" gap there. Tuck the power wire into this gap, working your way towards the driver's side door. The red line is the path your wire will be taking.



Step 4:
When you get to the edge of the windshield, use one of the trim tools to gently pry the A-pillar cover just enough to allow you to tuck the wire into it. Get the wire flat and then push the cover back into place.



Step 5:
Tuck the wire in between the rubber trim on the door, working towards the dash.



Step 6:
Use the trim tool to pry off the side cover. It has 3 clips and should come out fairly easily.



Step 7:
Remove dash drawer by opening it and then squeezing the sides towards the back.



Step 8:
Pull out a fuse, put it in your add-a-circuit, then put the add-a-circuit plug where you pulled the fuse from. The red arrow points to the fuse I chose.



Step 9:
Turn on the car and verify that the radar powers up and down with the car.



Step 10:
Velcro strap the excess power wire and tuck it out of the way.



Step 11:
Replace the drawer and side panel



Stuff to buy:

Power wire:
https://www.amazon.com/Escort-Direct-Power-Radar-Detectors/dp/B0003NN83U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497974491&sr=8-2&keywords=9500ix+hardwire



Add a circuit:
https://www.amazon.com/Radar-Mount-Detector-Fusebox-Circuit/dp/B00UB9W92C/ref=pd_sim_107_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00UB9W92C&pd_rd_r=0K76S4T52SJB4ACR9V8M&pd_rd_w=AupqD&pd_rd_wg=ZwoBH&psc=1&refRID=0K76S4T52SJB4ACR9V8M



Fuse puller:
https://www.amazon.com/RoadPro-RPFP2-Fuse-Puller-Pack/dp/B00CSBUFOU/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1497975152&sr=8-5&keywords=fuse+puller



Trim tools:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNMLQAG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yes, and easy enough to do yourself. It helps to have a trim tool to help pull panels and tuck wires in.

I found some plastic pry tools on Amazon that say they are for removing trim and panels in car interiors. Is that what you’re referring to? like this?

If you like to work in your car, get these tools, they are inexpensive and useful for removing door panels, interior/exterior trims, bumper clips and more without scratching or marrring anything.

Get a piece of plastic (or a knife, with caution), stick it in a crevice, and just pry it off carefully. They pop off easily. These things are pretty useful.

Location: NC, USA

Device: Nexus 6P 64GB (White)

Approved: 9/27

Ordered: 9/27

Ships: 9/28

Shipped: 10/3

ETA: 9/29-10/2

New ETA: 10/5

Replacement: Pixel XL (128 GB, Very Silver)

Process: Google Support

Warranty: Out of warranty, within Nexus Protect (have replaced phone once over a year ago under NP)

Status: Shipped! (10/3)

Battery drain for me. I was going to replace it under under NP (would've been second replacement), but found this thread first. They first said "well your phone is out of warranty but fortunately is still covered by Nexus Protect" but I told them the phone had to only barely be out of warranty and I wasn't go to pay the $70 for a known problem other people were getting free replacements for (I didn't mention the Pixel). They were very nice and gave me the "one-time exception" for a 128GB Silver Pixel XL which the representative said was the only color left and 'looked very nice'. Obviously pleased with how it turned out - credit to Google for really going above and beyond to make this right in the end, even though there's a lot of headache in-between for many.

Only worry is that they'll be upset with the scratches my screen has (small, made by sand) or say something like "there's nothing wrong with your phone" if maybe the 4th factory reset before I send it in fixes it. That remains to be seen.

Note: To anyone with a bend in the casing around buttons, just buy something like this and press it back in. If you are really worried it'll scuff (didn't for me) just use a paper towel barrier. These are also super handy to just have anyways. I had a bend near the lock button and another one near the volume button. Obviously I wouldn't bother if it is going back to Google though.

Rivets - Ginsco 102pcs 6.3mm 8mm 9mm 10mm Nylon Bumper Push Fasteners Rivet Clips Expansion Screws Replacement Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076BMVZ8R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_aEMXCb5GHH8S3

Trim removal tools (good to have) - KINGLAKE 4Pcs Auto Door Clip Panel Trim Removal Tool Kits for Car Dash Radio Audio Installer Pry Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNMLQAG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_LEMXCbFPMGXH9

As for the rivets I ended up replacing the “permanent” ones with the skinniest ones in the linked set. In the future I can reuse these if I want to.

Here's a decent video on removing the front bumper - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pUNlKmHgp9k

I watched and read as much as I could before diving into this. Let me tell you: it's fairly common sense once you do it. You almost could just go figure it out. I think I could have the bumper off in 15 minutes now that I've done it. Here's the main thing to know: once all fasteners are removed unclip the sides of the bumper outwards, the top upwards, and lastly the whole assembly forwards.

I saw the backs of the mesh grills and filed away the idea to change them some time later.

Links to everything I used for my installation:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G8HUTCW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNMLQAG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076F1WXRC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I ran the control wire (just 4-wire phone cord with RJ11 connectors) back to the trunk of the vehicle when I ran my 4-gauge amp wire (this video helped a lot). I used trim removal tools to pull all the panels for that initial run.

For the control knob, I first removed the side panel to the left of the headlight switch that's only visible when the driver's door is open, then opened and dropped the small storage box above the driver's knee area by pinching the sides and pulling down. Once those are open you can route the wire up under the steering column and over to the gas pedal. I then followed the install manual for the Apex garage door button which were great. Just one note - when you get the shift boot off, all you need to do is push up from the underside of the buttons to dislodge them - don't try to remove the whole piece around the shifter, as it appears to be bolted somewhere to the rest of the console, contrary to their instructions. Here are pics of the final installand customization of the button module to accommodate the ACR1 control knob.

I used something like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNMLQAG
An old credit card will probably work fine... I'd cut it to make it narrower.

I bought a cheap automotive pry tool set from Amazon for a couple of bucks. These are the ones I purchased: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNMLQAG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

To take the driver's side panel off, I shimmied one pry tool at each end of the panel that runs perpendicular to the door, and they popped out. After that, you need to pull the window switches out. I couldn't get the clips with my fingers, so I popped them out with a pry tool.

The passenger is a little easier IMO. You need to pry out the aluminum finisher on the door handle first, then there's two 10mm bolts that you need to unbolt, then the door handle will come out. After that, you should be able to get the passenger switch cover by hand. The clips to get the switches out are the same.

After I dipped mine and put them back in the car, I found a good tutorial on it (figures, lol) by someone on Youtube named AnthonyJ350. I painted mine a fair bit differently, but dissablemly is mostly the same.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6vopxhHPTGA

He also has a lot of other tutorials for our cars, so he might have a video on the center console. I've put in and taken out an aftermarket head unit in mine so I've done it, but I can't remember exactly what's in there.

My symptoms were very similar, they seem to quit working intermittently, which is annoying because sometimes you'll get a random misfire code rather than misfire on cylinder #x. As for the scantool, these are cheap and handy.

Panlong Bluetooth OBD2 OBDII Car Diagnostic Scanner Check Engine Light for Android - Compatible with Torque Pro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PJPHEBO/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_1wcwxb0KZ7M81

And torque pro app can clear a check engine light. If the alarm comes back it can tell you exactly what's wrong too.

wow. OBD2 adapter sounds amazing.

Are you talking about something like this?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PJPHEBO/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=1944687682&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B005M1AVFQ&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1Y5W4CZTQWWW2PE8AAC3

http://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Scanner-Adapter-Diagnostic-Trouble/dp/B00WPW6BAE/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1464114967&sr=1-1&keywords=OBD2+iphone


I only have an iPhone.

PSA: You can buy one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Android/dp/B00PJPHEBO/

And see for yourself what the code is for.

>not sell to yourself but to sell to others

I hear ya, but I think I covered this angle in my OP.

> diagnostic reports, access to certified mechanics, and AAA assistance

I've got a lot more experience as a mechanic than as a cellular salesman, what you just said there is the sort of horseshit sales pitch that's as shallow as 'pay us extra, cuz money' that corporate is always trying to push. I don't blame you, and I feel a little bad for telling you this because disabusing you of the nonsense that they've fed you will make your job harder, but there's nearly 0 real utility to it that can't be done with the phone people are already paying for.. which is why carriers love to sell them, it's high margin value added frivolousness.

This is a better diagnostic tool than any connected hokum being sold by carriers and it's ~$10. With a free or ~$5 app, there's a lot of information and help at your fingertips that can be read or shared.

>You may not want a tablet with a data plan, but a single mom without WiFi may want to give her kids one, or a college kid who needs something to take notes or draw on the go, small time YouTuber, etc.

Like I said, I don't represent everyone, but a lot of that doesn't resemble what you find in many areas. YMMV, but it can be a tall order and I don't feel like OP is lying to us.

In the interim, if you are so inclined, you could buy a cheaper OBDII sensor with an app on your phone that will allow you to monitor the temps.

One like this: https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Android/dp/B00PJPHEBO/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1549475699&sr=1-8&keywords=obdii

Though that is for android phones, I know Iphones are a little more picky.

It connects via bluetooth and shows you all the measurements by your ECM, it also reads and clears check engine codes.

https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Android/dp/B00PJPHEBO/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=odb2&qid=1558128149&s=gateway&sr=8-8 Like this.

TrackAddict app and this OBD2 bluetooth transmitter is what I have used. I don't mount the phone to get accelerometer data. I don't have external GPS either but TrackAddict recommends this. 1 hz internal phone GPS is kind of crap. I'm going to get a Garmin Virb Ultra 30 which does video, 10hz GPS, has accelerometers, and can connect to OBD2.

Something like this:
Panlong Bluetooth OBD2 OBDII Car Diagnostic Scanner Check Engine Light for Android - Compatible with Torque Pro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PJPHEBO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_azVEwb2NHQVCZ

It plugs into the diagnostic port in your car and relays the info to the app in your phone:)

I used one of these:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Panlong-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Android/dp/B00PJPHEBO

Get this

Then learn what the codes are with Torque

Also allows you to clear most check engine lights for annoying things.

Here's the one I recently bought to replace my old one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PJPHEBO?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I use an inexpensive bluetooth unit paired w Torque PRO app for a whopping combined cost of sub $20.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PJPHEBO

You can buy a cheap ob2 diagnostic tool like this for 20 dollars

https://www.amazon.com/Foseal-Scanner-Adapter-Diagnostic-Android/dp/B00W0SDLRY/ref=sr_1_14?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1484138667&sr=1-14&keywords=obdii+code+reader

Then you can put the code it gives you in google and then google will tell you what the fault is.

If you're interested in having an actual temperature readout, you can pick up one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Foseal-Scanner-Adapter-Diagnostic-Android/dp/B00W0SDLRY/

There are cheaper ones out there; I just linked the one I have. Basically, you connect this doodad to your car's data port, link it with your phone via bluetooth, and download an app that can show you realtime data from your car's computer, like temperature, battery voltage, RPM, "check engine" light codes, etc.

For less messy amazon links you can extract the part after "/dp/" in

https://www.amazon.com/Foseal-Scanner-Adapter-Diagnostic-Android/dp/B00W0SDLRY/

and make it:

https://amzn.com/B00W0SDLRY

BEEP BOP

Plz send any recommendations via PM

That sounds exactly like what is/has happened to mine. I just changed the VCG and spark plugs. It seems to help after a few hundred miles of test driving it, no more codes...well now the only code I have is camshaft timing sensor I need to replace. For codes too...do yourself a favor spend $20 on this OBD II Reader. There is a free app and you don't have to go down to borrow an OBD II from the auto parts store, it's super slick, tells you fuel trims, throttle position, a bunch of other things in real time, and allows you to clear fault codes. It's not my daily driver...just sits in the third stall of my garage and I whisper sweet things to it, hoping the rust around the wheel well will disappear one day...thanks Minnesnowta.

Why not buy a scangauge so you can pull and clear codes yourself?

Wifi. Plugs into your obd2 port. Accessed through the Dash Command phone app. Works perfectly and it's $20:

Car WIFI OBD 2 OBD2 OBDII Scan Tool Foseal™ Scanner Adapter Check Engine Light Diagnostic Tool for iOS & Android https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W0SDLRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DxJ-ybFKH7EPA

Look at this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Scanner-Adapter-Diagnostic-Trouble/dp/B00WPW6BAE

You have 4 options for that product, so you get to decide whether you need WiFi for iPhone, or Bluetooth for Android. WiFi will actually work with Android, but not the other way around. I personally prefer the BT+Android because that still leaves you connected to the data network (WiFi or LTE). To use WiFi with iPhone you have to do ad-hoc network connection to the OBD2 interface, which cuts you off from doing any kind of Google or forum search when you are connected.

Edit: my bad, only 3 options for the interface, the fourth is the extension cable. This adapter is small enough that you will not notice it getting in the way, unlike the one I had before it. The low-power standby version is probably there because it is easy to forget the thing is plugged in, and after a few days it can mooch enough juice from your battery to give you trouble. WiFi is really bad about that, BT not as much.

I have aVeepeak one I ordered off amazon and I use the Dash Command app which was $15 or something. I’ve used it on a bunch of vehicles and it’s been great.

https://www.amazon.ca/Veepeak-Scanner-Diagnostic-Adapter-Trouble/dp/B00WPW6BAE/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=AMMXS0IJOC5G&keywords=veepeak&qid=1554569618&s=gateway&sprefix=veep&sr=8-4

You can get a code reader that connects to your phone for about that much. I think. As long as the Justy is not too old for OBD II. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WPW6BAE/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1518391460&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=wifi+obd2+scanner&dpPl=1&dpID=41RSPD0DTYL&ref=plSrch

Also, check out /r/subarujusty Its very quiet there but they may be able to help you diagnose. Or be pessimistic because there are few parts avalible for Justys. Good luck.

I was wondering the answer to this as well. I just bought this one http://amzn.com/B00WPW6BAE I won't get it until next week but I will let you know how it is. It seems like a lot of people liked this model.

I have a Bluetooth ODB2 dongle that connects to an app on my phone (Torque). I think I spent a total of about C$30 for everything... I can read and clear fault codes, as well as realtime monitoring and logging of numerous data points.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Android/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=odb2&qid=1562934174&s=gateway&sr=8-1

I bought this one.

https://www.amazon.ca/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Android/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=92BXK3R3X07WM5PHT7QP

This is the reader I bought, but pretty much any OBD2 bluetooth reader should work: https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Automotive-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1511365822&sr=1-5&keywords=veepeak+obd2+scanner

There is some delay, but nothing more than you'd see on Torque alone. I wouldn't use this as a standalone boost gauge, but for certain metrics (coolant, voltage, rpm) that you want to monitor for a "safe" range this works well.

You can get a bluetooth-enabled OBD II scanner on Amazon, like this one, and then use a smartphone app like Torque Pro (Android) or OBD Fusion (iOS) to gain access to all sorts of information that the computer has but isn't displayed.

I use Torque Pro to display a digital speed gauge, digital fuel gauge, distance to empty, and miles per gallon.

I'd recommend getting an ODB such as (https://www.amazon.ca/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Android/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539359592&sr=8-3&keywords=odb). Only $20, plug it in, pair with your phone, and get all kinda of diagnostic info.

Part of what they are charing you for is exactly this service. They have a fancier one that can get more info, but if you get your numbers and post them on something like r/caradvice you might be able to get a good answer.

Bluetooth Amazon ones work great! And you can do other things like HUD stuff with them too. Also if you get an error code you can search it immediately.

*This is one for Android but they have them for everything. And it is what I have.

https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Compatible-Vehicles/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1549987254&sr=8-12&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=bluetooth+obd2+android

Try $20.

https://www.amazon.ca/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Android/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480686425&sr=8-1&keywords=obd+ii+scanner

just have to link it to yoru phone.

It was something like this one

If it's just for one vehicle, occasionally, go to the parts store.

If you are having regular issues, then I would get one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011NSX27A

I use it with the Torque app on my phone.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B011NSX27A/ref=pd_aw_vtph_263_tr_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7H2N74K6M24940WEDHY4 Well, for $12 you can fix that. In order to diagnose a modern vehicle this is a necessity.

You can also visit an auto parts store and they will check for you free of charge.

I am using this one now link

no problems with it so far. I've had it plugged in for over a month now.

This is the one that gave me problems link

Your best bet is to get a code reader, if you don't already have one. Here is a cheap one on Amazon. Failing that, your nearest VIP or other auto shop will usually read the code for you for free.

Once you know the diagnostic code it's throwing, you'll have a better idea what happened.

I'm leaning toward it not being a frozen anything; if something froze in the injectors, you have a lot of water in your gas, which would cause problems even when it's not cold out.

Very often rough idle is caused by MAF and O2 sensors. You also might be having issues in the ignition system, so check your plugs, wires, and distributor.

Good luck, and please come back to post more question, or if you found the solution, post that.

>All my LED's are done solid,

Solid? The problem with LEDs is that the computer expects a certain amount of draw and when the draw is low it thinks there is a bulb burned out and you typically get 'fast blink' and doesn't have anything to do with the connection being solid or not. The only way to fix this(properly) is to buy a flasher relay designed for LEDs and these don't work in every vehicle or install resistors(bad way) to bring the draw back up and defeating the purpose of LEDs. So called ODB safe LEDs just have a resistor added into the bulb which makes them very hot and prone to failure/melting lenses. In any case, LED bulbs will not create the problem you are seeing. You are on the right track with the battery sensing circuit. It lessens the life of batteries to overcharge them on a constant basis so newer cars will lower the charge voltage when the battery doesn't need the extra energy in order to extend their life. If you connected an ODB2 sensor, like this one, you will see that even though the battery/amp are only seeing 12v, the ODB2 system will still be seeing 14v(or whatever the alt is producing) and the voltage is being stepped down for battery charging purposes.

You could try a bluetooth OBD2 dongle. Then pair it to something like a Raspberry Pi inside which could connect to the OBD2, monitor data for engine on, and open the garage door if it's closed and the car is on.

I'd be curious to see what kind of lag there is in the cycle if it's going from a cold disconnect to garage door open, but it should be doable.

Not that I'd risk it myself, but I'm paranoid enough about CO that I've been pondering building an exhaust snorkel for my garage for during winter. =P

The answer to your question as-asked is that VA Tire for $114 is probably having a tech do a diagnostic and give you an estimate, which might or might not take a fair amount of time (some really generic codes, like an evap system one, can require a fair bit of testing to get down to the point where you can generate an estimate). Jiffy Lube is probably just scanning the code, which is only a few seconds of work, and if it happens to turn out to be something they can fix they'll offer to do it, but if it's not they're not going to go any further. JL is not exposing themselves to any risk of spending more than a couple of minutes, therefore they can offer that service for free. So that's the short answer.

I personally don't like JL (see my other comment if you care, it's sort of a YMMV situation), but there's nothing wrong with what they're offering. A free code scan like that -- which you can get at a lot of places, including most auto parts stores (or a buddy with an OBDII scanner, they are pretty cheap now) -- isn't a bad starting point if you've got a trouble light on the dash and need to pass emissions or something. Sometimes the code will tell you pretty much exactly what's going on and what needs to be done, and you can decide from there who you want to have fix it (or even DIY, if you're comfortable with whatever needs to be done). If the scan alone isn't conclusive, then I'd go to a real shop... and probably be prepared to pay a diagnostic fee if I have them diagnose the issue and don't have them then go and fix it; that seems only fair for their time.

Depending on what's going on that's prompting the question, you may want to ask or look at previous questions asking for recommendations of repair shops in N. VA... I don't have anything specifically against VA Tire, but I haven't heard anyone ever say that they were particularly awesome, either, and there are plenty of very well-regarded shops around who I'd probably go to first.

You can get something like this and use an app like Torque to find out what your engine is boosting to.

Good, Here is a good/simple OBDII reader.

https://www.amazon.com/Oxgord-Scanner-Engine-Diagnostics-Direct/dp/B011Q18D14/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1467576362&sr=8-4&keywords=obd2+reader

This code reader on Amazon is on sale right now for $15.

As for a mechanic, you could try Fort Mill Automotive. It's about a 20 minute drive from Carolina Place.

I bought one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BY2CK32/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

then using bluetooth, connected it to my android phone and I run the app called "DashCommand" http://www.palmerperformance.com/products/dashcommand/

That basic app will give dashboard, gauges, performance, but you need the PIDs for the Ford F150 for the 98 year. That's another $10.

Set up the misfire PIDs and run the datagrid while you are driving the truck. It'll show which cylinders are misfiring and how often they are misfiring.

Total cost was about $30 for me and it has more than paid back that cost in the information it gives me.

Try cleaning your throttle body and run a can of Seafoam in a half tank of gas and see if that helps. Also you might get one of these Blue Tooth OBD2 readers that you can use with smartphone apps like Torque. You can check error codes and watch realtime data from many of the sensors on your engine.

KitBest Bluetooth OBD OBD2 Scanner Adapter for Android, Car Diagnostic Check Engine Light Scan Tool Code Reader. 5 Year Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BY2CK32/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ULtVAbAS8W73W

Nope won't mess with warranty at all. It's bluetooth and pluggs into your obd port just those those snapshot things the insurance companies will give you for discounts. All torque does is monitor different sensors in the car, you may have to do a little googling to get all the PIDS set up correctly, but most work when you download them from the app. I think this is the one I have, never gave me any issues.

Do you have a Bluetooth obd2 adapter ? Kitbest Bluetooth OBD OBD2 Scanner Adapter for Android, Car Diagnostic Check Engine Light Scan Tool Code Reader. 5 Year Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BY2CK32/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Gls.AbD7XY9H9

This scanner works great and only $10.99. The MyGreenVolt app gives lots of interesting stats.

FYI, this is the one that I bought, I'm sure it depends on the app that you use it with but so far it has served me well.

here is 11.99

I got this one which rings all those bells. But you shouldn't be leaving it plugged in when you're not using it so I can't guarantee number 1.

They should've done it, yes. You'd either see that, P0016, P0017, or P1345. DO NOT let them clear the code at AutoZone.

Also, order one of these and download Torque Pro for your phone. Given that you've got a high-mileage Cavalier, it's probably a good thing to have.

He's saying some people can be dishonest when they sell vehicles.

Just because there are the only two codes posted in the ad doesn't mean those are the only codes the trucks computer is posting. Without an ODB-II reader you can't verify that, you have to take the sellers word for it. If you own/buy/rent one you can verify for yourself.

It's cheap insurance to bring one with you and verify. You can buy one that hooks up to your phone for about 20$ from amazon and use an application like Torque on your phone to read the information directly to your phone. You can also buy one that doesn't hook up to your phone for about the same price.

Some automotive stores will even let you rent one with a deposit.

>I don't know very much about cars obviously, don't really know what your saying or how to do it.

In this day and age: a lack of knowledge is a choice.

Google up: OBDII scanner. Here is a How To

Check Amazon: OBDII scanner. Here is one for $15 that will probably do the job

You need to learn about cars because your actual life and well being depends on it: literally, figuratively, financially and physically. It is the most expensive and dangerous thing that you will own. If you don't think your car is important: try getting by in life without one.

You can buy a code reader really cheap on Amazon. The one I linked, I use all the time, works well.

In my experience though, some codes don't stayed stored forever. So depending on when the light when off, from the time you get it hooked up to a scanner, the code could be gone.

For 14 bucks though, never wonder again!

I use Torque as well. You can find cheap small Bluetooth OBDII adapters on Amazon. They work great.

I bought one similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/Kitbest-Bluetooth-Scanner-Adapter-Diagnostic/dp/B01BY2CK32/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1538833599&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=odb2+bluetooth&dpPl=1&dpID=51z7L6z0ZfL&ref=plSrch

get a obd unit for a couple bucks, cheap way to quickly determine what's wrong with the car

sometimes it could be just a blown fuse and that might fix it quickly

It's already included in most continental cars. (I don't know much outside of continentals) https://www.amazon.com/Oxgord-Scanner-Engine-Diagnostics-Direct/dp/B011Q18D14

I bought this one that works great. You can also download the free app – torque from googleplay, or if you want to get more data about your car, you can choose to download other app but that may be cost a little money

If you have an android phone, these are great. They pair to your phone and give code read out and ability to reset the light if its just a glitch. You have to have an app on your phone, some are free, but one of the best is only is $5.00 (torque pro). I'm not sure about iphone stuff. (edit: its also nice to have an idea what's wrong before going to a repair person.)

https://www.amazon.com/Kitbest-Bluetooth-Scanner-Adapter-Diagnostic/dp/B01BY2CK32

January 9th and female

Under 40

Under 20

I think this will work right? http://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-4607-Velcro-Backing/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=cm_rdp_product

Am I on the right track? I am currently looking for all the products I need to completely detail my car. I know there is no way I could purchase all of these at once, so I am planning on purchasing the major ones first and adding the others over time. I have spent almost two weeks researching on everything I need to do. There is so much information and so many opinions that it is hard to find a definitive answer on what I need.

> Wheel

Wheel soap:

• Meguiar's Non-Acid Wheel & Tire Cleaner D143
  
  Wheel cleaner:
  
  
• Sonax Wheel Cleaner Plus
  
  Tire dressing:
  
  
• Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel
  
  Wheel wax:
  
  
• Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845
  
  > Paint
  
  Paint soap:
  
  
• Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo & Conditioner
  
  Paint soap addition:
  
  
• Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine
  
  Leaf blower:
  
  
• Worx Turbine WG520
  
  Clay bar:
  
  
• YGDZ Auto Detailing Magic Claybar
  
  Dual action polisher:
  
  
• Heavy Duty Dual Action Variable Speed Polisher from Harbor Freight
  
  Backing plate:
  
  
• Astro 5" PU Velcro Backing Pad
  
  Pad:
  
  
• Lake Country 5.5" CCS Orange Polishing Pad
  
  
• Lake Country 5.5" CCS White Smart Pad
  
  
• Lake Country 5.5" CCS Black Finessing Pad
  
  Compound:
  
  
• Meguiar's M105 Mirror Glaze Ultra-Cut Compound
  
  Polish:
  
  
• Meguiar's M205 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish
  
  Sealant/wax:
  
  
• Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845
  
  > Interior
  
  Carpet cleaner:
  
  
• Adam's Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner
  
  Dashboard cleaner:
  
  
• Nextzett Cockpit Premium or Meguiar's Ultimate Interior Detailer
  
  Leather cleaner:
  
  
• Nextzett Cockpit Premium or Meguiar's Ultimate Interior Detailer
  
  Leather conditioner:
  
  
• Lexol Leather Deep Conditioner
  
  Glass cleaner:
  
  
• Rain-X Glass Cleaner
  
  There are a bunch of other tools not listed here, but the ones listed above are the areas I am most concerned about.
  
  > Other Concerns
  
  I am still anxious about spraying water in my engine bay, so I decided to use a spray bottle with soap and water and a microfiber towel to wipe down the engine bay while it is still decently clean. Can I use diluted Meguiar's D143 or will I have to purchase Meguiar's D101 instead? Can the Optimum Tire Gel be used on the black plastics of the engine bay, as well as the other black trims of my car?
  
  I want to protect my interior, in addition to cleaning it. I am very confused on what product I need to use to protect my dashboard from the sun. The same goes for the leather seats, where the creases are forming. I have been using a conditioner (although I am unsure of the exact name) to slow down the crease formation. Should I use the same product for both the dashboard and leather seats (with Lexol Conditioner on top of that)? I have heard of Leatherique Leather Rejuvenator/Prestine Clean, but I am unsure of when I should use that.