Best automotive according to redditors

We found 43,458 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive. We ranked the 19,913 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Tires & Wheels
Automotive tools & equipment
Performance Parts & Accessories
Car care products
Oils & fluids
Replacement Parts
Automotive lights & lighting accessories
Automotive interior accessories
Automotive exterior accessories
Motorcycle & powersports products
Automotive Enthusiast Merchandise
Car Electronics & Accessories
RV parts & accessories
Automotive paint & pain supplies
Commercial vehicle accessories

Top Reddit comments about Automotive:

u/mpetrait · 700 pointsr/funny

Try one of these

u/tsunamitime · 578 pointsr/AskReddit

Would you be able to provide a link to the $10 bluetooth adapter? I did some looking at the link provided in google play store app and it listed adapters in a very wide range of prices.

Edit: Link to the one I am getting

u/th1341 · 491 pointsr/Showerthoughts

I have 2 of them. 10 dollars each

Edit: I can't find the $10 ones I have but here is one for $20

Edit: obligatory Thank you kind stranger for giving me gold!

u/mr1337 · 391 pointsr/LifeProTips

Truly a LIFE pro-tip.

However, if you are able, please keep a window-breaking tool conveniently accessible in your car. Either a hammer or spring-loaded multi-tool. Just make sure that whatever you get can also cut seatbelts (like the two I listed here).

Mythbusters did a couple episodes on escaping from an underwater car. After their experiments, even they said they would be keeping them at arm's reach at all times while in a car.

u/MechanismZero · 308 pointsr/videos

Eh, my worry is that in the chaos, I won't have time to grab the hammer doodad, and by the time the car is full of water, I won't be able to get enough power with the drag of the water to break the window with the hammer style ones.

I own this badboy.
Spring loaded window punch and still has the seat belt cutter. You just press it against the window and it does all the work.

u/notaneggspert · 252 pointsr/LifeProTips

How the hell is this 94% upvoted. This isn't a service Uber provides, Ubers don't use a traditional metering service it only takes a few minutes to jump a car, the uber you order might not be able to jump your car if they don't have cables, their car can't jump cars, or if they could just say no.

Anytime I see someone with the hood up on there car just looking around. I ask if they need a jump. I was filling up my windshield fluid the other day someone stopped and asked if I needed a jump.

Local police departments might jump cars through their non emergency number. This will vary department-department and hour-hour if they do since it's low on their list on priorities. But some departments will Protect & Serve.

Here's a real LPT:

Buy a proper 500amp jump starter that doubles as a tire pump and massive back up battery for phones. And you won't need to rely on cellular service, AAA, Uber, or a random act of kindness to save your ass when you're stranded. (Some even have a DC converter with adapters to directly power laptops/DVD players so you could glamp with it. I just linked the first Amazon link.)

u/Trisomic · 145 pointsr/DIY

Total cost: $31.70

Time: ~30 minutes.
Tools required: Hand drill

Now that it gets dark so damn early, I've been using my headlights a lot more, and I noticed that they weren't as bright as they used to be. So, on the advice of a coworker, I picked up THIS headlight restoration kit from amazon, as well as THIS sealer and THIS masking tape (to protect the paint around the lens). The directions were clear and concise and the whole process took about 30 minutes and was extremely easy. It comes with an attachment for your hand drill to which a variety of sanding/buffing discs mount. You start with a coarse grit sandpaper disc to remove the oxidation and then you use progressively finer grit discs to smooth out the surface. Finally you buff and seal the lens.

I couldn't be happier with the results. The lenses look brand new and there are enough sanding discs left over to do at least one or two more cars.

u/IMLOwl · 127 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

Get one of these, plug it into your car in the port hidden under your steering wheel, download app called Torque, get error code, google error code, see if it's something you can fix yourself (often it is).

Edit: These only work on Android. You can buy dedicated units (also cheap) or you can buy an iOS version that costs 4x as much. Similarly cheap priced models claim to work on iOS, but I have yet to see anyone actually get one of them to work.

u/adamhaeder · 114 pointsr/gadgets

I thought this would qualify, but I misremembered the price, it's $23.99, but it's the best I could do

BAFX Products (TM) - PIC18F2480 Bluetooth OBD2 scan tool - For check engine light and other diagnostics - Android compatible

u/Coomb · 46 pointsr/gadgets

Why would you pay $75 for an OBDII scanner when you can buy the same thing on Amazon for $24?

u/10leej · 46 pointsr/povertyfinance

Just so you know there are much cheaper alternatives to the Bluedriver. I personally use this one and it provides all the same stuff the Bluedriver provides for 1/5 the cost so you only have to work an hour and a half.

u/somerandomguy02 · 44 pointsr/TalesFromTheSquadCar

Not that you'd have the time to fix it yourself(or even be allowed to) but if you're curious you can get an ELM 327 ODB Bluetooth code reader for like $20.

This is the one I got. It's a true ELM 327 reader and not some Chinese reverse engineered hacked together crap. I keep it plugged into my ODB reader all the time.

The reason these are so cheap compared to a professional shop reader is because the reader is just an interface and knows how to talk to the computer. It just "translates" and passes stuff along to your phone/tablet which does the real heavy lifting. Torque Pro or Forscan(for Ford/Mazda) apps on your phone. You'd at least be able to see "oh shit, low oil pressure" or "shit water temps are through the roof, that's why it wont go above 95" so I'm about to be sitting on the side of the road for an hour. Or if it's just like some random dead O2 sensor or an occasional misfire on a cylinder or some vacuum leak that's making it run weird. You'd at least have some peace of mind.

u/BillDino · 33 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

This has fixed mine

Found it from a switch mod bot post

u/nastylep · 33 pointsr/nfl

I saw this on Sharktank a while ago and I remember thinking, "who the fuck would buy this?"

I guess I underestimated the market.

u/Fyrel · 33 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Like everyone's saying, they're a bad idea because they don't provide adequate lubrication and don't have the softness and physical structure that microfiber has to prevent scratches. It'll more than likely scratch the hell out of your paint.


A little more detail (heh) for how to do apartment washes:

Buy a gallon or two gallon pump sprayer and some Optimum No Rinse (ONR).


  1. Dilute the ONR to clay dilution, then use the sprayer to blast off whatever you can off the car as well as give it a presoak.

  2. Fill up your two buckets with grit guards (but not the cyclone ones) and give it a 2 bucket wash like normal. Replace the soap with Optimum No Rinse, and skip the rinsing step.

    EDIT: Use the sprayer to replace the hose, or else grab a Big Red Sponge(not generic sponges) and perform the BRS wash, or the Gary Dean method(substituting ONR for the products he uses). Thanks to /u/defected for pointing it out.

  3. Dry it off with a soft microfiber towel and you're done! No need for rinsing because of the ONR, and you can get done with less than 5 gallons of water total.

  4. Use your favorite wax, sealant or quick detailer to provide some protection!
u/FlickeringLCD · 32 pointsr/LifeProTips

Toothpaste has abrasive qualities which lends it to secondary uses as a polishing compound. They sell commercial kits that do similar things. It'd probably take half a tube of toothpaste, and a lot of elbow grease to get these results.

u/MyNameIsRay · 32 pointsr/LifeProTips

Or spend $20 on an OBDII scanner that pairs to your phone, with a free app to read the codes.

This way, anything 1996 or newer (except for some exotic cars) can be read without having to jump on one foot backwards while humming the star spangled banner and cycling the ignition 5 times.

u/PinkyandzeBrain · 32 pointsr/Showerthoughts

Here's one you can buy on Amazon that hooks to your Android via Bluetooth - Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool for Android Devices

u/spike_africa · 30 pointsr/Cartalk

This seems like an obvious answer.

But it's because one headlight is much newer then the other. The old one is fogged over from sun damage and need to be sanded and buffed.

Use this kit with a home power drill to make it like new. I'd suggest going over the other one too a bit just to make them both match.

u/OfficialTriceratops · 28 pointsr/buildapc

[This might work] ( it had all the keys so you can test them out yourself

u/dyniper · 25 pointsr/ouya

How to make trigger buttons smooth as butter:

The problem is that there is no grease on the plastic-on-plastic movement of the triggers. I did that for both my controllers (maybe I should have made a video...):

  1. Remove the 2 face plates and batteries
  2. Remove the 6 screws of the controller and open it up
  3. Get yourself non conducting grease (like this one)
  4. Apply one small dot of grease at all these areas (basically everywhere plastic slides on plastic)
  5. Action the trigger many times to distribute the grease
  6. Re-assemble the controller, and enjoy stick-free triggers.

    I really wish Ouya would have done that first-hand. It is a very easy thing to fix that would not have cost them much... Hope that helps!

    Edit: fixed link
u/Steev182 · 25 pointsr/cars

Car windows absolutely do not need a gun fired at them.

My police officer dad gave me something like this when I started driving.

Ended up leaving it in the car when I sold it though!

u/Leovinus_Jones · 25 pointsr/HumansBeingBros

Better yet, keep one of these in your car for occasions like this, or when you need to break a window to escape.

u/32F492R0C273K · 24 pointsr/BlackPeopleTwitter

Got this one for $12 and it works great with Torque and other apps on Android.

u/lakeplacidd · 24 pointsr/Android

There are already apps available that link via Bluetooth to a ODB2 sensor that will diagnose your vehicles. The sensors are really cheap and can be found on sites like amazon:

u/Rentiak · 23 pointsr/funny

You clearly need The Drop Stop

No really, I put them in my car and they're great.

u/grepnork · 23 pointsr/unitedkingdom

If you can't gain entry to the vehicle safely then you call your sergeant and they will bring in officers with the right equipment, the fire brigade if nessacery, or more likely head to the scene and negotiate themselves.

You don't go smashing your way in like a nutter, you especially don't try and smash the windscreen. You warn the suspect of what you're going to do more than once, you particularly warn the suspect to cover their eyes. Then, with another officer guarding the doors on the opposite side of the vehicle and second pair of hands, preferably two, next to you, you smash a side window. The spare pair of hands unlocks the door and grapples the suspect.

This isn't Die Hard, it's policing by consent.

u/Nimrodor · 22 pointsr/buildapcsales

WASD's better switch tester is always $16.

If you don't mind using Aliexpress, a 4-switch Cherry mx tester is under $4. Mine took 10 days to arrive with free shipping.

Either way, though, switch testers are a poor way to select a switch. Typing on a keyboard is really the only way; switches feel very different when you slowly press them down one at a time on a tester. Go out to a hardware store or a meet and try things out; it's free, and it'll give you a much better idea of what you're looking for.

u/CDimmitt · 22 pointsr/starterpacks

Also, check this little guy out. If your car is model year 1996 or newer, it should have an onboard diagnostic port- usually located underneath the steering wheel in the foot well. Plug that scanner into it and pair it to your phone via bluetooth and you can read the fault codes that caused your check engine light. It eliminates A LOT of worry or guesswork.

u/NightGod · 22 pointsr/Showerthoughts

Is the one I usually see recommended. Cheaper ones are flaky, more expensive ones are a waste of money.

u/NoxiousDogCloud · 19 pointsr/ottawa

If you don't wanna hafta use your coconut to batter a window down, get a resqme tool.

u/Yargyarg · 17 pointsr/videos

In case you didn't know, car glass is actually lamenated glass, which is why it's so hard to break. Obviously you wouldn't want it to be as brittle as regular glass, otherwise every time your window got hit by a rock doing 50mph, it would break.

Although it wouldn't have helped much in this scenario if the owners of the car had one (probably would have helped if someone else had one in their car), there are many tools on the market designed specifically to break car glass. It's a VERY good idea to buy such a tool in the event that your car goes into the drink or any other event happens in which you need to break your own car window fast. Such tools are as follows:

Imagine, instead of a kid being stuck in the car, you lost control of your car and went into a river. You can't get your window open because of the pressure differential and you need to get out, QUICK! There's a problem, though: it took a 250lbs man and a massive pipe multiple tries to break the window from the outside, how the fuck are you going to do it with nothing to help from the inside? Seriously, buy something like the above, keep it in your car. You may never need it but wouldn't you rather spend 20 bucks on something you never use than not spend 20 bucks on something and die as a result?

u/Kariko83 · 17 pointsr/3Dprinting

If you enjoy tinkering then the Folger Tech i3 2020 is a pretty good printer and you can read my review of it here.

Get some Super Lube or other appropriate grease to pack the bearings with so that they don't fail on you like mine eventually did.

You will want to get a good set of metric hex keys as the vast majority of the screws are metric hex heads.

A soldering iron, 16g or better primary wire, and some solder are also a must as you will have to solder the leads to the heated bed so it can be connected to the RAMPS board.

Personally if I was to go back and build mine again I would toss the Mk2 heater PCB and use a Mk3 aluminum heated bed with a sheet of PEI on top from the start. It would have saved me both money and time troubleshooting both adhesion issues and the majorly warped heater PCB.

If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask.

u/rpzxt · 17 pointsr/AutoDetailing
u/stonewall1979 · 17 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

I'm just a tinker too, but if he doesn't have a scan tool to reader error codes, look at the new Bluetooth sets. Plug in to the OBD2 port and download the app to you phone. Get all the codes and internet research in one, plus see engine manager info on some models.

They're not expense and are available on Amazon. This is similar the one I have. and there are a lot of options out there.

u/reddog323 · 16 pointsr/LifeProTips

Or get one of these, and keep it in the ashtray. Mine fits there. Cheap at $10 too.

u/Daddy007FTW · 15 pointsr/LifeProTips

Screw that Groupon one. Here's one from Amazon that is the same price all the time and is better. I ordered one and can't be more pleased. Read the reviews and answered questions on Amazon for some great tips, including how to reset the check engine light.

u/HORSEtheGAME · 14 pointsr/cars

How about a diagnostic reader? Something like this. Basically if your car has the engine (or another) light on you can plug that in and your phone will tell you what the problem is. You'll need an app like Torque for it to work.

A dashcam is another gift that is something anyone could benefit from, but not everyone would necessarily think to buy for themselves. Over on /r/dashcam they have some really good guides on what to get. Expect to spend about $100, though. It seems like this one is the best bang for your buck according to their guide.

u/Jowitness · 14 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

Protip 1: a lot of autopart stores will check what the light means for free.

Protip 2: Get this And this and be able to check the lights and reset them yourself along with monitoring a ton of other vehicle functions

u/transcendent · 14 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

Bluetooth versions generally work with Android phones. They will not work with iPhones, however.

I bought one of these that works fairly well with an old Galaxy SII phone. I use the torque app to read live info and codes:

u/BICEP2 · 14 pointsr/motorcycles

On a related note, for anyone looking to do this with a car you can buy cheap bluetooth OBD2 modules on Amazon for about $25.

On Android most people use the app Torque.

I use the $5 paid version of torque, I don't remember what the limitations are for the free version of it but it's money well spent because you can view a lot of diag data, check engine codes etc.

There are a couple times where I connected it to peoples cars, texted them the CEL codes, and cleared the light for them when its something simple. It was money well spent.

u/singsing718 · 14 pointsr/GolfGTI

I think it’s a pretty affordable way to maintain your car. I use the Optimum ONR - No Rinse Wash
And some basic supplies

  • Wash mit
  • microfiber towels for drying
  • 2 buckets of water (one for the solution the other to rinse out the mit)

    I can provide a full list of anyone interested.

    Tons of videos online to help you along.
u/zenautodetailing · 13 pointsr/AutoDetailing

2014 VW GTI

I performed my Express Detail on this 2014 VW GTI for a client in MIAMI! It just so happens I used to live in Miami and have family that I see every once in a while. This client messaged me asking if I ever go down there, and it just so happens that I was. This is so far the farthest I have traveled for a detail. He also gave me a pop up tent which was great because it was way too hot.

Products Used:


u/fatbottomedgirls · 13 pointsr/DIY

For those who aren't aware you just need a bluetooth OBDII dongle to use the Torque/Torque Pro app with any android phone or tablet. For example, lots of folks find that this cheap one works great:

Similar IOS apps require a wifi rather than bluetooth dongle, such as this one:

u/keepthisshit · 13 pointsr/technology

uhh yeah, not sure if you understand how much faster computers are than you at math, but it would take the entire population of mankind to compete with my GPU at mathematics.

it could easily be a OBD RF transmitter. tech already exists. look now i just need to run a real time simulation oh noes! if only we could do that on a phone...

EDIT: for example a $70 GPU does over a trillion floating point operations a second, I doubt you could get 7 billion people to do that. Did i mention it did that with a mere 80 Watts of power...

u/Love_Science_Pasta · 13 pointsr/ireland

So scary. Doors won't open under water pressure. Side windows are tempered glass and are near unbreakable. The car seems built to drown you. It's a wonder they've not enforced a lever in the car to snap the windows in such an event given this kills people every year.

For anyone that's worried about this (thankfully unlikely) tragedy happening to someone they love, you can buy one of these on amazon for a tenner:

Here's a video demo:

u/PM_ME_CAT_FACTS · 12 pointsr/Android

Pioneer Bluetooth media receiver Play music, make hands free calls, Pandora

Bluetooth OBD clear codes, vehicle diagnostics, avg speed, fuel economy

u/teckademics · 12 pointsr/cars

I'll go first, personally any type of wireless OBDII blutooth device that links with a smart phone. Troubleshoot check engine and get live stats of how your car is running. Not to mention it's usually cheaper than a full blown code reader.

u/vhalember · 12 pointsr/cars

Oh, I completely understand passing on that car. Sounds like nothing was maintained.

Still, get one, they are very very useful, and cheap. Only $13 for an Android BT reader on Amazon - $18 if you need iOS. If you have Android, download Torque ($5 for paid version, but even free is very good.)

That under $25 set will have more features than the $200-$400+ readers still sold in autostores... and are more up to date, and can easily interface with the web for more code information.

u/DelphFox · 12 pointsr/LifeProTips

Amazon is what we're gonna do.

u/HedonismBott · 11 pointsr/cars

Link for anyone looking. Can confirm this stuff is awesome. I like that it allows me to wash my car in the garage out of the sun. It can also be mixed stronger to make a quick detailer.

u/xscamerashyy · 11 pointsr/motorcycles

Or just $26 every day at Amazon

u/rainishamy · 11 pointsr/SleepApnea

I feel you friend. I also went camping but did take one of those car jump all in one batteries along with a 12 volt power adapter for my machine. it had worked the previous camping trip for about three to four days just fine. But this time, it died at 1 a.m. the first night and I was awake the rest of the night. I simply cannot sleep without my cpap at this point. The rest of the trip was a misery, next night slept in the passenger seat of my Prius with the CPAP plugged and car on (on but not running). trying to sleep in a seat sucks, but the car turned itself off every hour so it was hardly any better than that first night. I believe the next night I slept in the bed of a truck with a CPAP plugged in in the truck (again, on but not running) through the little back window and it worked much better. Until it rained.

So the NEXT camping trip I got my shit together.

Get a deep marine battery. These are designed to power small things on a boat and are used to the small dribble of electricity over a long period of time. Get a battery box to place it in for safety, and a battery tender to charge it before the trip. You'll want a ring terminal harness to attach to the battery posts, and a female 12 volt adapter to plug your machine into.

The box contains everything safely with just the plugs you want sticking out the slots in the lid, but if there's small children in the camp you may want to ratchet strap it closed to be on the safe side.

I got battery and box at my local walmart. The rest from Amazon.

Female cigarette adapter:
Battery Tender Black 081-0069-8 Female Cigarette Adaptor for Quick Disconnect

Ring terminal harness:

Battery Tender 081-0069-6 Ring Terminal Harness with Black Fused 2-Pin Quick Disconnect Plug

Battery tender to charge your battery:

Battery Tender 12 Volt Junior Automatic Battery Charger

And of course you'll need to get the 12 volt power adapter. Look up the model maker of your CPAP machine and Google away to see where you can find one. I looked for my manual and then I found the one that was recommended in the manual along with recommendations. Mine recommends I do not use the water chamber when using the 12 volt power adapter due to power consumption and no way am I risking the battery running out of power before the trip is over. I got the adapter from a generic CPAP supplies website.

Good luck! I'm going camping this summer I hope my setup still works!

I usually camp out of state with family and have a few nights in a house before heading home. I always bring a new face mask new filter and even a new hose if I have one as after camping the machine reeks of woodsmoke and it drives me absolutely batty.

Edited to fix oh so many typos.

PS: I will edit the links more pretty when I'm on a desktop sorry about the non pretty formatting

u/mini4x · 11 pointsr/Cartalk

Look easily repairable.

Go to AutoZOne / ORiley or whateve rbox store auto store you have nearby and but a plug kit.

Dig out whatever it is, ream the hole with tool in kit, insert plug with other tool, cut off excess plug material.

u/deader115 · 11 pointsr/AskReddit

Maybe it's just because I am not a hands-on kinda guy, but I would never define jump starting as being trickier than tire changing.

That being said, if you can afford a charger pack that you can keep in your trunk, those things are amazing. If you keep it charged, you can jump a car without needing a second car, and they usually come with other features, depending on the model and battery strength. I've had ones with small air compressors in them (to fill a tire), emergency lights, and an AC outlet. They can be pricey but they're great for a car emergency kit.

Edit: Something like this which I just pulled up on Amazon arbitrarily.

u/tisn · 11 pointsr/gadgets

"My parents owe me some money." ಠ_ಠ

Most bang for buck:

  1. Nexus 5 + one year of t-mobile's $30 5GB data plan
  2. Leatherman multitool
  3. Have a car? OBDII scan tool + Torque app for Android
u/MacEnvy · 10 pointsr/IAmA

>It is normally an $80 minimum charge at a shop to get your codes pulled, and it only takes a second.

Or you can buy a reader for $20.

u/Mod3_freak · 10 pointsr/TeslaModel3

Ok, after four months with the car, here goes...



  • Wall Connector $500. Not necessary but I'd recommend biting the bullet before taking delivery, so you can keep the mobile charger in the car. The electrical work took 2 hours of time, at $130/hr. I highly recommend installing a dedicated 60-amp breaker and an efficient gauge wire which will give you 45 mi/hr of charge.
  • Charging Adapters $35. Car comes with the 5-15 and 14-50. I strongly recommend buying the 5-20. If you plan to charge at someone else's house on a roadtrip, ask them to send you a picture of their dryer plug. So far, I've needed the 10-30 and 14-30.
  • NEMA 5-15P to 5-20R Adapter $20. Strongly recommended in combo with Tesla's 5-20 adapter to "cheat" a 16-amp charge (33% faster charging). Must-watch this video, and must-read here, here, here, and here.

    Tesla OEM

  • Cargo Mats for Frunk & Trunk $70 & $130. Must-have some sort of trunk mat, since the trunk material is generally poor quality for heavy use.
  • Front Sunshade $75. Living in Florida, this is a must-have if you dont plan on tinting the top glass panel. The "front" is acutally the middle of the three glass panels, not the windshield.
  • Paint Repair Kit $55. Nice to have so you're ready for rock chips. So far I've had one that made it through the black paint and silver primer.


  • Aero Cosmetics Complete Car Kit $40. Highly recommended. Pricey but saves time for amazing results. Cheaper and better quality than CarGuys products. I liked it so much that I ended up buying this also.
  • Invisible Glass Spray Cleaner $4. Recommended that you have some glass cleaner that's not Windex. This brand is one of the best.
  • Wash Mitt 2-pack $16. Highly recommended compared to a wet rag.
  • Tire and Wheel Brush $8. It's important to segregate parts you use on wheels from parts you use on paint. This product is solid.
  • Grit Guard $8. Totally optional. Helps separate dirt in the bucket when cleaning. You'll see a difference in the water.


  • Tough-Pro Interior Mats $80. My opinion is that all-weather mats are a must-have. The stock mats are crappy, and all-weather mats make cleaning easier. These are cheaper than Tesla's all-weather mats. I'm happy with them but I'd buy the OEM Tesla ones if I could do it again.
  • Upgraded White LED Lights $13-$77. Must-have for the trunk. Optional for others. I replaced all 7 non-footwell. Easy install with a credit card. As a bonus, I have one left over, so PM me if you want it.
  • Kenriko Matte Wrap for Center Console $30. Must-have. Watch his install videos first. Customer service is excellent if you screw up the install like I did. The matte black matches the black leather interior perfectly. I'm sure the matte white is nice too.
  • Pet Cover for Trunk $45. I couldn't find anything better for driving my dogs, so I use this one with the back seats down, along with Tesla's rubber trunk mat. I'd say my setup prevents 90% of dog wear, and keeps any dog smell to a minimum.
  • Nomad Wireless Charger $130. Nice to have. Not available until end of November, but battery is integrated unlike the comeptitor's.
  • Rubber Cupholder Liners $25. Optional, helps with cleaning.
  • Drop Stop $20. Optional, makes life easier.
  • Air Compressor $25. Optional but recommended. Look for one with automatic shutoff.
  • Tire Plug Kit $8. If you're handy, this is a cheap solution to be ready for a flat. If you're not handy, get Tesla's tire repair kit.
  • Card Holder $5. Optional. Keep in your center console so valet has a way to hang your card key.
u/chadcf · 10 pointsr/Autos

I haven't tried it but have been considering it. Basically it means in the winter you can wash your car safely ensconced in your garage with no hose. You mix it up, wet some towels or wash mitt, scrub the car and then just dry it with microfiber towels. Also useful for apartment dwellers with no hose access. You would probably only want to use it on a dusty / slightly dirty car though.

u/Arbelisk · 10 pointsr/consolerepair

Take the battery out. Get a toothbrush. Some of this stuff.

Scrub off the board and rinse with highest concentration of alcohol you can get. I use 91%. Repeat until it looks good. Replace the battery, because I'm sure that one is a gonner.

u/neoMoses · 10 pointsr/Portland

This is the one I have, a couple more bucks but works great. The app for your phone (Android for me, it's called Torque) is $5.

u/ABSOLUTELY__BASED · 10 pointsr/cars

An actual mechanic would probably have some super fancy diagnostic tool, but you can buy a personal OBDII that bluetooths to your phone really well for like $20 on Amazon

u/Barril · 10 pointsr/gadgets

If your car is 1996 or later, you should have an ODB2 port (with some exceptions, google your specific car). The port is usually somewhere under the the dash on the driver side, but a quick google search will tell your where yours is for your car. It looks something like this.

I have used this bluetooth version to hook up to my car, and paired it with my android phone. Take a look at the responses to this comment for the various apps that know how to use the data. I liked Torque, personally.

u/mkhart · 10 pointsr/motorcycles

On sale and everything.

edit: more expensive ones will have higher amps I think and can work on cars or larger batteries, but for a motorcycle that one will be more than enough.

u/Virisenox_ · 10 pointsr/flashlight

My recommendation: Super Lube. It's cheap, and it will work on anything. With vaseline, the petroleum will damage certain types of o-rings. Astro-glide is just not designed for this type of application either.

Lots of people also really love Nyogel. Here's a good CPF thread about greases and lubes.

u/5hiftyy · 10 pointsr/mazdaspeed3

The CX-7 turbo has a smaller compressor wheel as well as a smaller compressor wheel housing. This gives you a better low-end torque curve as well as faster spool-up and throttle response. This sort of turbo brings the torque needed for a small SUV with a turbo. The Speed3/6 K04 has a slightly larger compressor wheel and housing, which leads to higher top-end boost translating to more top-end power while sacrificing low end torque and response.

Typically, all the aftermarket turbos are listed as fitting the Speed3/6, CX-7 becuase they are all bolt-in replacements. The problem is if you get a CX-7 turbo, it'll still fit, but your power band WILL change, just like you're describing.

For a short-term problem solver, I might suggest getting a Bluetooth OBD-II scanner and looking at your boost levels. No, it's not the best solution for logging, but it'll do what you need it to. I know my speed3 hits max boost between 3500-3750 RPM; being ~15psi in gears 3 & 4. Why don't you try a 3rd gear pull and see where the motor hits max boost, what that max boost number is, and what RPM it's hit at? This is honestly the only thing I can think of with respect to diagnosing on the cheap, without an AP or pulling the turbo. You may also want to ask the mechanic again for the OEM serial number of the replacement they put in, and compare it to the CX7 vs. Speed3/6 turbos.

The stock MS3/MS6 K04 is typically serialized as K0422-881/882.
The stock CX-7 K04 is serialized as K0422-582.

u/diablo_man · 9 pointsr/BlackPeopleTwitter

If you got a "Check engine" light on, and you want to know what it means but dont want to drop it off at a pricey mechanic just for a diagnosis and potentially expensive repair, head over to amazon and pick up one of these blue tooth OBD2 scanners. That ones for android(I have it, works great), this one works for iphone and android.

That plus a typically free app like "Torque" let you find out the error codes your car is throwing out(and all other kind of basic diagnostic stuff), so you can google it and see if its something you need to fix right away, could easily fix yourself(with youtube), or if its just a minor problem you dont need to worry about yet.

And if you do take it to the shop, you can probably save them some time(and thus money for yourself), and being more informed, keep yourself from being taken for a ride.

If your car is 1996 or newer it should have a port for these(typically under the steering wheel above the pedals), save yourself some anxiety about that new warning light that just showed up.

u/Kooriki · 9 pointsr/vancouver

I bought a car from the auto auction in the late 90's (CAAG in Surrey). Back then it was a risk v reward thing as you're never sure exactly what you're getting. You can browse the cars beforehand, start them up but they are packed in so tight you can't really drive them.

Plenty of deals to be had but its largely influenced by how popular it is that day. Best times is low season (Oct-Feb), and if it's raining. Mid week was better deals than weekends.

To judge prices, ignore blue book; Check Craigslist. Craiglist is the market.

Buy an ODB2 sensor to check diagnostics. (Depending on how old the car is, it may not work). Before every auction the auctioneer will call out any declarations and it will be on a big board (out of province, salvage, not legal etc)

The atmosphere is hectic and crazy and confusing and exciting, but once you've got a couple of times and see how it goes its not bad at all. If you want to bid on a car, have a price in mind and put your hand up if the price is right. An auction worker will come over to you and call the bids out for you so you're not confused by all the hand signals and yelling. If there is a reserve price on the car and you don't meet it, you can negotiate on the spot with the seller (standing near the auctioneer) if they are willing to take less than the reserve.

Try not to feel intimidated or bullied. Get a price in your mind and work with that.

Last note: You're going to have to settle price and insurance quickly, but they do have a broker on site to do transfers/reg/taxes

Hopefully this helps. My experience is close to 20 years old, but I spent a TON of time at the auction place and got a real good feel for how it worked at that time.

u/amelia_sucks · 9 pointsr/Austin

a Lifehammer is what you're looking for. Has a seatbelt cutter too.

u/MagicWishMonkey · 9 pointsr/pics
u/nahman3m · 9 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

Nah man just get that 3M kit for 20 bucks. Cleaned up my headlights like new and it has a protection wax so the issue hopefully doesn't reoccur for a while. You get a polishing drill bit too so no elbow grease required. I believe there are three different grits of sandpaper used and a sealing compound at the end. (including the MAGIC trizack disc!) its a wet sand.

theres enough stuff in that kit to do at least 2 cars.

the most time consuming part is taping off the lights so that you dont scratch the paint with the sandpaper.

u/NoOneLikesFruitcake · 9 pointsr/LifeProTips

They go even cheaper so long as you don't mind futzing with the port and cable. Bluetooth would be amazingly more convenient though.

u/agayvoronski · 9 pointsr/motorcycles

Hold up! Before you buy that! Let me get you to the link, I found some awesome gas proof stuff that I painted my tank with!

Edit: here's the link

This stuff works great, applies well, looks amazingly smooth, nice and glossy. Best of all it's gas proof, I ruined a few Rust-Oleum paint jobs before finding it.

u/president2016 · 9 pointsr/mildlyinfuriating

Get this:

I ordered for Christmas and likely because of Amazons holiday hiring of newbies, I ended up with two. They said it wasn’t worth sending back to just keep it! Now both vehicles protected.

Drop Stop - The Original Patented Car Seat Gap Filler - Set of 2 (AS SEEN ON SHARK TANK)

u/Some_Old_Man_Fishin · 9 pointsr/chicago

Check out this article about outdoor winter storage.

If your scooter is going to be sitting for long periods of time, use fuel stabilizer and a battery tender. Also, I would recommend treating it liberally with ACF-50, which prevents corrosion.

You might want to post in /r/chicagomotorcycles too.

u/porkporkporkpork · 9 pointsr/motorcycles

In my area, at least, none of the shops will patch a tire. Fix it yourself.

Get yourself one of these. I've had the best luck with this kind of patch kit.

Pull the screw out, then shove the reamer into the hole to open it up a bit. Rough it up a bit.

Take one of the gummi worms, and put it through the hole in the plug insertion tool. Make sure it is centered. Put some rubber cement on it. RAM it in to the hole, making sure that you don't push the gummi worm all the way through. Pull the tool out. The worm should stay there.
Put 10 psi of air in the tire and let it sit for a bit. Trim the gummi worm down so that the bits that stick out are below the tread. After an hour or so, fill the tire. Check for leaks and repeat if necessary.

Edit: the patch kit doesn't have to be motorcycle specific. I bought a truck tire patch kit at the local Shuck's.

u/Swing_a_ling · 9 pointsr/whatisthisthing

That's a reamer from a tire repair kit.

Here's one on Amazon.

u/Xenjael · 9 pointsr/pics

Too time consuming. With a knife it's literally in and out.

If you wanted to be a dick order that thing off Amazon that costs like 4 bucks that pops car windows. You just press it against the window, click it, and it shatters the entire glass. Also comes with a seatbelt cutter!

u/Dapado · 9 pointsr/AskReddit

I have a scanner so that when my check engine light turns on, I can see exactly why. The one I have is bluetooth and connects to an app on my phone.


u/Go0m · 8 pointsr/FiestaST

Hey all, I got a bunch of info from here and the forums, so I thought I would give back and drop a few links.

First is the roof rack. I think the rola roof rack is the best looking and ends up being one of the cheapest.

Next up is the cargo box. I thought getting one this long would look stupid, but it's way better than I imagined. The rocketbox 11 is one of Thule's cheapest and big enough to fit my huge board in. No noticable drop in mpg, either - hovering barely above 33.

The backup camera is a fantastic upgrade. I followed this post and dug into the forums posted there. I would double check the apim codes because it's a tad dangerous and I didn't use the same exact codes as u/brbauer2 (I have the 2016 w/ sync 3). Shoutout, by the way, the album was super helpful. Also, the pins we inserted to the wiring harness didn't connect with the head unit, so I shredded a small amount of foil to bridge those connections.

Canying Car Trunk Handle Rear...

BAFX Products Bluetooth...

And finally, I like having my windows down in the rain, so I got them smoker vents.

Maybe someday I'll get that accessport/intercooler and a rear motor mount, but I'm loving it as it is!

You all bought awesome cars, thanks for the help, catch you later.

u/breastblessed · 8 pointsr/Android

I just use my retired Galaxy Note 2 with a lightweight lollipop ROM (liquid smooth) and this

~ mount Only $10 and free one day shipping if you are a prime member. It won’t open any wider than a note 2 but it holds securely to both the phone and the dashboard even in this 0 degree weather outside right now. Wish I could leave my phone out in the cold too. I hate North Idaho.

~ Dashcam - I use Dailyroads Voyager It uses cyclic recording so it can keep overwriting and not using up too much space. It can run in the background while I use waze, music, OK Google, etc. You can also set it to save the video when it senses x amount of G forces. Or you can tap the screen at any time to save the video… It has tons of features and the shocking part is it’s free! Since work provides me with unlimited data tethering on my phone I also utilize it’s cloud backup feature.

~ OBD II - For car diagnostics reading I use BAFX OBD2 I was literally shocked at how easy this was to plug in and pair to my phone! For close to $25 I had tons of information about how my car is “feeling” right in front of me. I’ve only tested a few but I stuck with Dash Some of the things it tells me are engine temperature, engine load, speed, MPG, coolant temperature, RPM, air/fuel ratio… anyway, my favorite part of the app is how it keeps track of my trips.. locations, statistics, where I last parked. Love it.

Things I’m still working on are getting an inverter in my trunk to power a small/cheap router and raspberry pi plus small ssd so that in the case of theft my dashcam app could save to the ssd in my trunk to catch the filthy thief. Looks like there is enough room behind the plastic cover where they keep the tire changing tools to keep this equipment hidden from sight. If anyone has better ideas please let me know. Maybe someday I will impress a nice guy ………

u/Lobotomite430 · 8 pointsr/Lexus

3M 39008 Headlight Lens Restoration System

I've personally used this kit on a dozen headlights and love the results.

u/CakeAccomplice12 · 8 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Stanley J5C09 1000 Peak Amp Jump Starter with Compressor

u/Escabrera · 8 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Let me just get the safety information since that's super important and a discord server has is on command
>Clear coat
The most commonly used & recommended clear coat here is the USC Spray Max 2K High Gloss Clearcoat found here:
It is also available in Matte and Semi-Gloss and all three types are highly recommended. In general, 2K clear coats will hold up much better than 1K, and will protect your work for years. Use of a standard 1K clearcoat will result in a finish that will wear off extremely quickly from use and leave you with a ruined paintjob.
Note: A couple things you need to know about USC 2K and all other 2K clearcoats.

>1. USC Spray Max 2K has a roughly 48 hour pot life. After this window has passed the clear coat will be unusable, so it's recommended you clear coat in batches.

>2. A can can typically cover 3 controllers, 3.5/4 if you're good about spraying efficiently.

>3. You must use safety equipment when using any 2k clearcoat. 2K clearcoats are HIGHLY TOXIC!*
3a. Wear a respirator, goggles, gloves, and a full body paint suit (preferably with a hood).
3b. Use light layers and work outdoors or in a professionally ventilated workshop (i.e. dedicated garage).
3c. Do not spray or leave to cure in an area where people or pets can breathe the fumes. This includes the full cure time as 2k gives off dangerous fumes until fully cured. Even very light exposure can make you sick.

>Please use the command !ccsafety to see more information
CustomGCC staff and members are NOT RESPONSIBLE if anything goes wrong.

!ccsafety info
Most painters in CustomGCC use the 3M Disposable Organic Vapor Respirator or similar, found here:
The cartridges on this mask are nonreplaceable and have a max use time of 8 hours before they're inneffective in protecting you, this means you must replace this mask every 8 hours of active use.
The filters also get used up just sitting around in the open air, so make sure you store it in an airtight bag between uses if you want to get the full 8 hours out of it.

>For a re-usable mask and replacement filters these are good options:


>Other Necessary Protection
Make sure to wear safety goggles, nitrile or similar gloves, and wear long sleeves/pants to prevent the 2k getting on your skin. Any clothes worn while spraying should be immediately changed out of and washed to prevent any chemical being absorbed by your skin.
A Tyvek paint suit is highly recommended:

>For a full writeup on respirators and safety gear please check this link:

u/RazorLeafAttack · 8 pointsr/Gameboy

In the custom GameCube controller community the use of a high end clear coat called USC Spray Max 2K High Gloss is strongly recommended. It’s designed for automotive use and worth noting—it’s very toxic and the can needs to be used within 48 hours before it cures in the can. The second most recommended option is Rustoleum 2x clear gloss which has worked well for me, is much cheaper, it isn’t a specialty product, and doesn’t need to be used within a 2 day window.

u/HyJenx · 8 pointsr/bikewrench

Pretty much anything that you can buy at a big box store will fail fairly quickly.

Your best bet for a clear finish would probably be an automotive clear coat. These are 2-part catalyzed finishes that hold up very well, but are a little pricey.

Here is one option.

I have not used this particular brand, but it seems to get high reviews.

If you want color on your bike, look for local powder coaters. It can be done for a couple hundred dollars, and will last forever.

u/TruckBC · 8 pointsr/vancouver

Amazon. Get a Bluetooth one, along with torque app. There's a bunch of vehicle specific apps too.

Android can be Bluetooth or WiFi, iPhone needs it to be a WiFi obd module.

This is the unit I use.

u/KidzKlub · 8 pointsr/CFB
u/TurboSalsa · 8 pointsr/houston

I bought one of these after the last big storm, just in case.

u/dirtyfries · 8 pointsr/teslamotors
u/dufflebum · 8 pointsr/motorcycles
  • battery tender, keeps the battery charged during the winter.
  • Tinted visor for his helmet, usually those run about $15-35 depending on the helmet.
  • Lock - Brake Lock, Chain Lock
u/funbob · 8 pointsr/amateurradio

At that budget level, you're going to be looking at more budget oriented radios from the likes of Baofeng, TYT, QYT, Leixn, and the other assorted Chinese manufacturers. The one you mentioned is not a bad choice, so let's run with that...

  • Radio - $128.86

  • 8Ah SLA battery - $17.77


  • 20Ah SLA battery if you don't mind the extra size and weight - $38.00

  • Battery charger - $21.85

  • You'll need an antenna. I'm guessing you don't have a vehicle to attach a mobile antenna too, so I'd recommend something that attaches directly to the back of the radio, like this antenna. I actually have one and it's surprisingly decent for the price. - $12.99

  • You'll need a right angle PL-259 to BNC adapter to properly attach this antenna to your radio - $7.49

    side note: For a mag mount antenna, the Tram 1185 is a good cheap option at $21.63

    additional side note: Neither one of these antennas I mentioned is tri band capable, they're dual band 2m/70cm only. Tri band 2m/1.25/70cm antennas are considerably more expensive. Unless there's regular 1.25m activity in your area, you may wish to reconsider your need for having this band.

    Total: $188.96 or $209.19 if you choose the 20Ah battery option.

    Use whatever is left over for a case. A nice Pelican will probably consume the rest of your budget. Or you could go down to your local sporting goods store and browse the handgun cases there. You'll probably be able to find something good for $15-30 and have a few bucks left over. I found this 4 pistol case at my local Sportsmans Warehouse, it's cheap, reaonably well built, and is a pretty good size. I can fit a small army of handheld radios and associated paraphernalia in mine, so it should be big enough to hold a mobile rig plus battery.
u/Perma_dude · 8 pointsr/teslamotors

Standard emergency gear (triangles/flares, space blankets, water, etc)

Some decent USB charge ports

A USB jump start battery if you want the ability. Also useful for jumping the Tesla if your 12V battery dies (supposedly this problem is fixed).

No spare tire in the Model S, so you may want a Fix-a-flat kit (or pay $20 more for one with a Tesla logo on it). If you prefer no goo in your tire, an old school tire repair kit is also an option for punctures in the treadwall (not in the sidewall, unfortunately).

Lots of neat Tesla-specific accessories out there. Lighted front T, add-on coat hooks (if you care about their absence), dash cams, etc.

The official unofficial delivery checklist also has a bunch of good advice.

u/MissingUmlaut · 7 pointsr/DIY

There are two ways to fix a puncture: plug or patch. A patch is generally done at a shop and involves removing the tire from the wheel, applying a patch to the inside of the tire, and remounting the tire. This is definitely the strongest fix.

Since this is the DIY subreddit, you're probably interested in the second method, which is the plug.

I have plugged many tires myself, and I've never had one fail, even after years and thousands of miles.

  1. Get a kit like this. They're sold all over- Walmart, auto parts stores, etc. Make sure you get the kit that includes a tube of rubber cement. The kits all have a reaming tool, a plug tool, and a number of plugs. The plugs are usually sealed in plastic and look like strips of rubber.
  2. Jack the car up and remove the leaking tire. In a pinch you can install a plug while the tire is still on the car, but the tire still needs to be up in the air. Note that you should NEVER crawl under a car that is only supported with a jack, so only do this if you can reach the puncture without getting underneath the car.
  3. Using pliers or whatever, remove the screw that is stuck in the tire.
  4. Use the reaming tool from the kit to rough up the hole left by the screw. Just do a couple of push/pull strokes with the tool to round out the puncture. This ensures the plug will seal correctly.
  5. Take one of the plug strips and thread it into the plug tool, like you're threading a needle. Make sure there is equal amount of plug on either side.
  6. Coat the plug with some rubber cement.
  7. This is the only tricky part. You want to push the end of the plug tool into the puncture until only about 1/4" of plug material is sticking out, then quickly remove the plug tool. The plug will remain in the hole, and your puncture is fixed. Just go slow, and don't push the plug all the way in or you'll lose it inside the tire.

    It's super easy to do and a great DIY skill to have. Recently my friend was stuck with a flat tire, and the lug nuts were torqued on so tight we couldn't get the tire off to put on the spare. Since I had my plug kit and 12V air compressor, I plugged the leak with the tire on, filled the tire back up, and he was on his way 10 minutes later.

    Hope this helps.
u/[deleted] · 7 pointsr/Pets

To hell with their understanding. Break the damned window and save the damned animal. As far as I'm concerned, they should count themselves lucky to not be prosecuted for animal cruelty.

To make window smashing easy:

u/crispyscone · 7 pointsr/EDC

They sell these seat belt cutter/glass breaker tools.

u/MadaMadaDesu · 7 pointsr/flashlight


$5 a tube. Safe for incidental food contact. Should last you for years, unless you have like 500 lights or something.

Wipe off gunk on thread with microfiber cloth.
Apply a tiny dab.
Work it in by tightening and loosening a few times.
Wipe off excess.

u/imprl59 · 7 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

That really depends on the code and the vehicle. If you are outside of california just stop at any chain parts store when the light is on and get the code read (they'll do so for free). Get the actual code from them, not their diagnosis. You can also get a cheap bluetooth OBDII reader and the free torque app if you have an android phone or tablet. Then you can check your own codes.

u/MotoSparky · 7 pointsr/Tools

On Amazon they have bluetooth scanners for Android. Runs about 25 bucks. Best thing ever, plus you can possibly pill real time info depending on your car, an added plus to trouble shooting. This is the one I bought. There are some cheaper now though!

u/RabidBlackSquirrel · 7 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Grab an OBDII reader, for ~$20. I've had this one for several years. Put Torque Pro on your device and go forth and diagnose. You can get a dedicated handheld tool, but I prefer the features of using Torque. Some cool addins available for it too.

u/brmo · 7 pointsr/Android

I am doing the same thing in my 2010 Ford Escape. I ordered a double din dash kit off amazon, made the hole a tad bit bigger and i already fiberglassed the tray that i will use to slide it in and out of.

My plan is just like yours, torque, nav, music, etc. I already have a Turtle Beach USB Audio sound card, for usb OTG, where a powered USB hub will be used for the sound card and the 64gb usb stick. (Works great btw.).

The only issue I have right now is power, while its not important, especially when using a powered USB hub, I still feel comfortable with it charging while its in my car. So the project is on standby until the pogo pinout gets figured out (should know as soon as the official dock launches), and then go from there.

So far here is my parts list:


USB Audio:

Bluetooth OBD2:

u/KPexEA · 7 pointsr/Porsche

Buy an OBD-II reader. You can pick one up from or a local shop for about $20. Plug it in and download the error codes.

This is the one I have, works fine on my 996tt and ML500.

u/PotatosAreDelicious · 7 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

More like $15. Here and Here

u/CephalopodAlpha · 7 pointsr/Cubers

You could try something like this. I've used this a number of times on various things and while it does require some elbow grease, I've successfully satisfied my inner anal tendencies.

Edit: I know nothing of regulations, so not sure if this will help. Thought maybe you were concerned about how it looked.

u/LurkmasterBot · 7 pointsr/pokemongo

Should really just get one of those batteries to jump cars which conveniently has a USB out:

u/RealCoolDad · 7 pointsr/nova

Everyone in the DMV should own a portable jumpstarter/air compressor

STANLEY J5C09 Jump Starter: 1000 Peak/500 Instant Amps, 120 PSI Air Compressor

u/punkonjunk · 7 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

just as an FYI, that topcoat is garbo and won't last as long as you'd like. this stuff is amazing:

BUT very toxic, and you must wear a good mask with it, like this one at a minimum.

the customGCC community also dabbles in pro controllers and joycons and is an amazing learning resource if you are looking for more information on doing this, and doing custom buttons as well! I have learned SO MUCH about painting in just the last couple months I've been there.

u/nevermind4790 · 7 pointsr/vinyl

Sounds like you just need to Deoxit the volume pots in the KA-400 to get rid of the scratchy sound. I did the same thing in two of my vintage Harman Kardon receivers, and to pitch controls in two of my turntables. Deoxit is like audio magic, I kid you not!

u/anthonyooiszewen · 7 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

To quote one of my recent comments about silencing stabilizers:


I've spent tons of time researching and modding stabilizers and here's the method I use to make them as silent as possible:


Let's Build: KBD75 + Zealios 65g (YouTube)
[stabilizer modding starts at 12:11]


What you'll need:

  • Genuine Cherry stabilizers
    • This is the most important component of a silent build. Don't waste your time with the cheap Chinese replicas.
    • Zeal stabilizers are fairly quiet out of the box but not everyone wants to spend that kind of money

  • Finish Line Extreme Fluoro 100% DuPont Teflon Grease

    • Use this for plastic-on-plastic contact areas (i.e.: stabilizer housing inner walls)

  • Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up Grease
    • Use this for metal-on-platic contact areas (i.e.: stabilizer wire tips and long side of bends)
    • Some use this for plastic-on-plastic but I hate how it gums and slows everything down; I use this grease mainly to fill up any gaps between the wire and plastic parts of the stabilizer - the primary source of stabilizer rattle.

  • Fabric/cloth bandages
    • This serves two purposes:
      • Fills the gap between the stabilizer housing and the PCB to minimize wobble and thus, rattle (not a problem with screw-in stabs)
      • Cushions the bottoming out of stabilizer inserts. The inserts extend beyond the stabilizer housings when pushed all the way down and strike the surface of the PCB, leading to a loud "clack" and additional vibrations/movement that might cause the metal bits to rattle.

    • We use fabric instead of the water-resistant stuff (or tape) so that it absorbs and holds the dielectric grease.


      This is what they should sound like:
u/fratdaddyZC · 7 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

While I’m waiting on my Lumina to come in, I figure I’d do a cheaper, experimental tactile build.

Keyboard: Duck Sidewinder Gray

  • Duck Sidewinder

    Stabs: GMK Screw in Stabalizers w/ Walker Mod (no adhesive sticker)

  • GMK Screw in Stabalizers

  • Permatex Dielectric Grease

  • Orings

    Switches: Holy Razers

  • Greetech SMD RGB bottoms

  • Outemu ICE V2 tops

  • Halo True stems

  • Krytox 205 GPL 0

    Butyl Rubber

  • Non Adhesive for the case

  • Adhesive for the spacebar


  • Blue Grey XDA Keycap Set

    I needed something to scratch my itch while I wait for my Lumina, so I decided to pick up the Duck Sidewinder and screw around with some mods. I have a bunch of halo’s and Outemu Ice V2’s lying around, so I decided to pick up some Greetech switches to mess around with. After lubing them up with Krytox 205, I had a good set of holy razers, and I’m pretty happy with them.

    I’ve used butyl rubber to deaden the sound in my keyboards before, but this is the first time using it on the spacebar. I actually like the added weight in the spacebar, and I had no idea if I would or not.

    As far as the caps go… Truth be told, I’m not much of a fan, but I was hoping the dark blue would bring out the blue tones in the case, and I think it did pretty well. I’ll keep them on for bit and see if they grow on me. It's just hard to find a good set of caps that are colemak compatible. Currently I'm waiting on these.

    I’m pretty excited to have this as my daily driver for awhile :)
u/Filifa · 7 pointsr/Adulting

People have died from not being able to get out of their car. Don't make that mistake.

u/huge_douche · 7 pointsr/NewOrleans

No worries. anyone who drives over a body of water no matter how small should have a safety hammer in the car. 14 dollars that could save you!

u/rbeach · 7 pointsr/TwoXChromosomes

> Long story short, carry a hunting knife of some sort (crappy pocket knives may not cut well enough) in general to deal with being trapped by your seatbelt, as opposed to not using it and just getting thrown clear of the car to die a different way.

Or buy one of these:

u/Shrimptacular · 7 pointsr/SwitchHacks

The one I've seen mentioned the most is CRC.

You're going to have to go to r/NintendoSwitch or YouTube if you want more info because I haven't used it, but I did get a free official fix which I'll write about in this thread.

u/efpe3s · 7 pointsr/techsupportgore

If compressed air and a toothbrush don't work, you can hit it with a plastic safe solvent.

u/zakabog · 7 pointsr/IllegalLifeProTips

Yeah, pure dumb luck mostly. I received a WASD key tester along with some stuff I ordered. It must have been accidentally packed by the picker which I'm sure happens a lot, but not predictably enough for it to be useful. I also ended up ordering a WASD mechanical keyboard shortly after so it ended up costing me quite a bit.

Also received a free Dell laptop kind of in the same way. My friend ordered a Dell laptop, they sent him the wrong one, so they gave him a shipping label to return it which he did, then he received the correct laptop as well as the laptop he sent back. Dell contacted him to say they didn't receive the laptop he sent back but he has the tracking number which indicated that they received it. Dell dropped the case after that and he ended up giving me the laptop.

u/Excelius · 7 pointsr/pittsburgh

Fair point regarding peripherals you physically interact with, like keyboards and mice. I was thinking you were talking more about components like processors, RAM, and so forth. I recently went through a similar ordeal trying to find a gaming headset I liked.

Stores like Best Buy and Staples will usually have one mechanical keyboard in stock, but it's hit or miss as to whether they'll have a demo unit on display for you to touch and feel. Doesn't help much if there's a physical box in front of you, but you can't open it to get a feel for the product.

My wife has been considering a mechanical keyboard, and she actually bought this switch tester that lets you get a feel for the different switch types. It was helpful to rule out the ones I definitely wouldn't want, but without being able to see on-screen response and have an entire set of keys under hand it still wasn't the demo I would have hoped for.

(I'm conflicted between the Cherry red and brown types. Red seems to be the one you'll find most commonly in mass-market mechanical keyboards.)

u/joshuads · 7 pointsr/funny
u/tealplum · 6 pointsr/cars

It's called Drop Stop. Started as a pitch on shark tank.

u/6231 · 6 pointsr/4Runner

Drop Stop - The Original Patented Car Seat Gap Filler (AS SEEN ON SHARK TANK) - Set of 2

u/hammymchammerson · 6 pointsr/breastfeeding
u/KayFuj · 6 pointsr/juul
u/Astrum91 · 6 pointsr/funny
u/DarkScorpion · 6 pointsr/chevycolorado

Cargo Bull Rings for the Bed

Ratchet Straps

Mult-gift set of a grit guard, large waffle-weave micofiber towel, and 1) some 2) good 3) soap

Stubby antenna because the stock one makes the truck look like an RC car

An actual RC Colorado ZR2

u/berean17 · 6 pointsr/GNV

You can wash it yourself using one 2 gallon bucket with 2 ounces of optimum no rinse and shine and some microfiber towels. Much cheaper, easy to do in a parking lot and environmentally friendly.

u/john300dpi · 6 pointsr/Seattle

Yeah man, just get this soap:

I have that for my car.. Get a bucket (or two buckets if you want to use the two-bucket system), a microfiber mitt and a towel, and go to town out on the sidewalk. Soap is biodegradable if any run off happens.

I got the gallon bottle of soap, and it's lasted me for over 2 years and I'm only about a third of the way through it. All it takes is a cap full for every gallon or two.

u/Aedelmann · 6 pointsr/Dualsport

Install one of these as well as one of these and you're good to go. That is the setup I have running to my handlebars for my phone while riding. I also installed a switch so I can stop it from pulling power when parked or raining or whatever, you can see the switch glowing red under my seat.

u/alitanveer · 6 pointsr/Frugal

Don't worry bro. I got your back. I've had this for the last two years and it has saved me tons of money and trips to Autozone (mostly for family cars). Torque is also awesome and shows you all kinds of cool data.

u/Korzag · 6 pointsr/autorepair

Look into getting an OBD2 scanner that will connect to your phone. My preliminary research makes me think you can get your mileage from the computer that way. Plus, these things are incredibly handy to have when ever you get a check engine light.

u/gewdgewd · 6 pointsr/ft86

Get an OBDII reader and the Torque app and see which code it is. Then look up the code and it'll tell you what happened.

Or a standalone OBDII reader.

u/CoolMcDouche · 6 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Best $22 I've ever spent. Paired with the Torque Pro app. BAFX Products 34t5 Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool for Android Devices

u/GreystarOrg · 6 pointsr/volt

I've used Torque (Lite) with this OBD2 reader:

Works pretty well for what I wanted (reading codes). I've not used it for anything other than that though.

u/CarmelSack · 6 pointsr/FiestaST

u/femaledog · 6 pointsr/subaru

I have this thing:

It works well with my car and torque, but my car is older than your car.

u/youAreAllRetards · 6 pointsr/klr650

Height should be your biggest concern.

I'm 5'11", with kinda short legs, too. I couldn't ride this bike if it were any higher. You can get lowering links, and a different seat, and you should be OK - right about where I'm at, but it may never be "like a glove" comfortable.

It will totally get the city job done. Little box on the back, and you're good to go. When they hit potholes, and nearly lose it, you'll float over like nothing. Mine is a daily commuter and a weekend warrior. There is nothing this bike won't do "pretty ok".

Riding is riding. Unless you're trying to keep up with people doing 80+, you'll be just fine. The bike is as much fun as any other bike on the street at <60mph. I've ridden with groups of guys on harleys, groups of older guys on Can-Am and Goldwing trikes, adventure bike groups, groups of kids on dirtbikes, families on atvs, and in giant packs of streetbikes on weekend evenings.

Travelling far distance ... don't do it unless you're comfortable on a bike already. Riding for hours on end can play tricks with your concentration and whatnot. If you must, and you're not that experienced, plan on a 15-20 minute break for every hour riding. Just do it.

Here's some shit that I learned the hard way:

Change the oil/filters before you go, and check the plug. Check your air filter after 1000 miles of highway/trail. Plan your trip to avoid interstate. You will be much more relaxed on smaller highways, and you won't have as many trucks and their drafts to contend with. Calculate your gas mileage at every fillup. Little problems can show up as dropping mileage before they become big problems. Put some flat stop in your tubes. Give the tires a push check before starting every time. Bring rain riding gear, and hope you don't need it. Get a throttle lock. Either a good one or a cheap one. The KLR will vibrate your hands numb, you will need to get your hand off the bars for a bit. Wear a camelback water bag. A good GPS/phone mount that offers visibility without having to look away from the road is really nice when going through unfamiliar towns. Make sure you have a usb charger if you don't have a 12v socket. for your gps/phone on the bike. Carry extra cheap eye protection. One of those ATV seat pads can help if you get a sore ass easily. Don't beeline it to your destination - make a point to include a side-trip up a mountain or something as often as you can.

I think you'll end up liking the bike, and you'll end up going on that "adventure" ride sooner than you think :)

Lanesplitting is as easy as you want it to be, with no panniers. It starts to get hairy above 60, because after that the KLR just doesn't have the instant go that you need to zip through smaller spaces. So at those speeds, you're more like a cruiser bike. But at city speeds, once you've been in the saddle a few months, it feels really small in traffic.

u/Jahire_Subdumbum · 6 pointsr/motorcycles

That seems correct. Check your battery and look for extra cables there. There should be a little cable that has a fuse added to it, if so, then you are golden. Just get a USB adapter and you have a quick phone charger. I run a similar system on my bike for long trips.

Battery tender USB adapter thingy

u/XxRoyalxTigerxX · 6 pointsr/cars

There's a smaller sized blue OBD2 plug in on Amazon it goes along the lines of "panlong" or something, it's only like $10-15, works fine in my Lexus and Mercedes, it's able to clear errors and stuff, real-time info works well. And it's really low profile unlike those other adapters so if it sticks straight into the foot well it won't bother you

Edit: it's $11

Works fantastic with torque pro

u/bumpits · 6 pointsr/motorcycles

treadwear looks a little low but to your first point: a tire worm has no effect on the tire's function and if done properly (ie you cleaned the hole first with the included tool) itll last the lifespan of the tire.

Slime 1034-A T-Handle Tire Plug Kit

u/gobohobo · 6 pointsr/MorbidReality

Buy this. Attach it to your keys.

u/TheAethereal · 6 pointsr/UrbanSurvivalism

smart phone, multitool, flashlight, cash, and a resqme.

u/jaggazz · 6 pointsr/nottheonion

It is. In Minnesota a lot of people drive on the lakes in the winter and every year there are lots of cases of cars going through the ice. Many ice fishermen carry something like this in their trucks.

u/nexusheli · 6 pointsr/rccars

Standard WD-40 is not a lubricant. WD-40 displaces water and acts as a degreaser. It will work as a lubricant for a short period, but once it evaporates you'll have no lubrication.

The stuff you linked is a silicone lube that's simply under the WD-40 brand, it is not WD-40 in the traditional sense. As it's a spray, it's not the sort of lube you really want in a bearing; what you want is a really light silicone or lithium grease: that stays inside the bearing.

u/GothamCountySheriff · 6 pointsr/vinyl

I don't have experience with your specific turntable, but on many turntables with a manual pitch control, the potentiometer(s) (aka "pots") will become dirty over time, which will lead to inconsistent voltage being pushed through them. You can clean the pots out by using an electronics cleaner (see below), followed by a lubricant. There may also be some small rheostats that are used to set the pitch range that have succumbed to the same problem. For both issues you will probably need to get at the underside of the turntable to effectively clean them. (Be sure to remove the platter and secure the tonearm before turning the turntable over to access the internals).

Should that not work, it may be that some of the capacitors have drifted from their values, or have failed completely. cleaning guide (for receivers/amplifiers, but generally applies to all pot cleaning):

I recommend Deoxit electronics cleaner followed by Deoxit fader lube. If you can't get that, then CRC QD Contact Cleaner (BLUE can NOT red can) and their lube work well. For reference:

Oddly, for such a basic maintenance necessity, there aren't that many good cleaning videos, but this one for a guitar amp has good shots of where you need to get at the pots when cleaning them. You shouldn't need to use that much fluid when cleaning though.

u/mesaone · 6 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

better use a contact cleaner instead of lighter fluid. Costs about the same. Deoxit is a cleaner you can spray into the pot, twist the pot repeatedly, and then (optional) blow out with canned air. Works like a charm, it's made specifically for this purpose.

u/cmbyrd · 6 pointsr/motorcycles

That's the good advice, here is mine.

u/CSBreak · 6 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

try electronic cleaner worked for me and i just used the tiniest spray of it i could i think someone wrote a guide on here at some point

u/motoo344 · 6 pointsr/AutoDetailing

You did half of the work required to get your desired results. In order to remove the 2000 grit sanding marks you need to polish them out. You are basically using a liquid that has abrasives in it, think of it as liquid sand paper. You put some compound on the orange foam pad and then polish it out with a machine polisher. Like sandpaper, compound leaves scratches, although they are very fine. You need to use a less abrasive polish on a less abrasive pad, the white one. This brings back the clarity and then you can clear coat them. You can keep it simple and buy something like this which will attach to a power drill.

u/PNWTim · 6 pointsr/LifeProTips

Or spend Less than $20 on a real scanner without risking frying your $2000 ECU. If you plan on doing to work yourself spend a little more and buy one that allows you to view live and freeze frame sensor data.

u/Crack_a_toe_a · 5 pointsr/NewOrleans
u/trigger_control · 5 pointsr/Cartalk
u/Aterners · 5 pointsr/BMW

Here's the link, it's only $16

Autel MaxiScan MS300 CAN Diagnostic Scan Tool for OBDII Vehicles

u/IamRandallStevens · 5 pointsr/pics

I'd like to add

  1. youtube. There is a video for just about everything. (If nothing else you'll see how easy...or how ridiculously hard it is.

  2. $20 engine code reader

    all 1996 (IIRC) or later cars must have easy access to the onbaord computer too, usually down by your feet.

    This $20 device plus google enables you to figure out the problem and if you can handle it yourself.
u/netchemica · 5 pointsr/ar15

Not at all.

I have two lights mounted this way. The one that's a little further forward is getting it's finish blasted off, and the one that's a little further back has a small piece of the front lens sanded down. They both work perfectly well and the lenses are easy to clean with some plastic polish.


Here's the finish wear on my 7.5" SBR:

Here's the lens wear on my 11.5" SBR: I've rotated it to even it out a bit.

u/Necoariadne · 5 pointsr/scion

Instead of sanding first off, I would recommend you try something like Novus Plastic Polish. I ended up picking it up after having issues clearing up my headlights after sanding. I've used it to remove oxidation on another friend's TC with really good results.



WTB Spring

u/resettheconsol3 · 5 pointsr/fountainpens

Mask of the trim so you don't polish off the gold (or whatever) plating, and use Novus Plastic Polish

u/crystalmerchant · 5 pointsr/modelmakers

Replied to a similar post recently:

> I did this to a windshield once. Researching fix options was how I learned this technique. Use Micro-mesh sanding pads in this order:

  • 3200 grit - horizontal strokes
  • 3600 - vertical strokes
  • 4000 - horizontal
  • 6000 - vertical
  • 8000 - horizontal
  • 12000 - vertical

    > That should get it transparent, and looking close to glass. Sometimes I then polish with Novus if needed.
u/abusche · 5 pointsr/Cartalk

or, just ride it out. one of these is a good idea to have around anyway (not sure what your winters are like). one day, you'll need it. and when you do, its time for a new battery.

u/corgismorgii · 5 pointsr/motorcycles

Gasoline drips will ruin ur clear coat if u use Rustoleum clear.


You need 2K Clear Coat (Epoxy 2 part clear coat). Its gasoline resistant basically. 1 Can did my SV650 gas tank to perfect gloss.

proper paint spray mask recommended

u/AwesomeArachnid · 5 pointsr/cars

I made this diagram, not to scale of course.

My theory is that if there's enough healthy base coat left under the oxidization, you can VERY carefully sand off the damaged clear coat and base coat then just spray more clear coat over it, you would have a slight variation in color from the base coat that has been exposed to the elements to the newly uncovered base coat but once it's clear coated it shouldn't be too noticeable and is definitely an improvement over oxidized and failing clear coat.

I'd approach it by masking off the exposed base coat while I got rid of the messed up clear coat, then removing the masking tape and very carefully sanding the base coat. I'd wetsand with 1000 grit for pretty much everything since it will cut relatively slowly and make it more difficult to take too much off. The main risk is taking too much base coat off while sanding the edges of the damaged clear coat, hence the masking tape.

If it turns out that the base coat is damaged all the way through or you accidentally sand too much, then you'd need to get some paint in a rattle can to try to match the factory color, this could either be Duplicolor, custom mixed stuff from a website like, or you might be able to find a shop that would match it for you. None of which is going to be perfect so I would probably opt for one of the first two choices.

Either way, the area you are working with needs to be sanded with 1000 grit, so after you finished that you would spray the new matchedish basecoat on and try to blend the edges as best you can, then give it a week or so to dry because otherwise you can get some nasty interactions between the paint and the clear. After that week or so you would then sand the newly sprayed basecoat with 1000 grit. You can drive the car after letting the base coat dry for a few hours though.

At this point all you need to do is spray the clear, so if you had to wait for new basecoat to dry you would clean the area very well then wipe it down with alcohol, then spray a 2k automotive clear coat such as this over the area. For very large areas it starts to lose it's cost effectiveness, but if you have access to a compressor and paint gun it could be fairly economical.

You also don't have to clear coat an entire panel, you can mask off just the area to clear coat then sand and buff the line out, but unless the clear coat line is on a body line then it can be very difficult to make the transition seemless without sanding too much off.

Keep in mind that this is just a theory I've come up with over the course of spraying the Integra in a carport wrapped in plastic then attempting various paint repairs in my driveway/garage. It's also worth noting that on metallic paint jobs, if you have to spray any new base coat it will absolutely look wrong, and if it's pearl you can forget about it. I had a bad spot on the door of a silver Civic I had a few years ago, in the end it looked alot better but it was pretty apparent if you looked closely.

u/nakedrickjames · 5 pointsr/Cartalk

Usually that's because once you clean them up, you've polished / sanded off the UV protectant that's on the exterior. You can simply re-spray a decent quality clearcoat on the outside and they should last quite a while.

u/mrmattolsen · 5 pointsr/mazda3
u/09RaiderSFCRet · 5 pointsr/Fixxit

And this USB adapter plugs into it to charge your phone and such.

u/steve0suprem0 · 5 pointsr/motorcycles
u/TheTurd · 5 pointsr/Harley

Skip the cigarette adapter. THIS is all you need to connect to the tender wire you have.

u/waspocracy · 5 pointsr/prius

Not a tip, but a warning: Get used to people cutting you off or trying to go around you at all costs. Had some douche pull the "go around" this morning, but I was trying to avoid an accident as some dickhead cut me off. Then I ended up flying by him at 85 mph just moments later.

Tip: Get an OBD2. It will help you figure out what certain indicators say on your dashboard along with other cool things.

u/GET_OUT_OF_MY_HEAD · 5 pointsr/povertyfinance

You can also buy a Bluetooth OBD-II adapter for $10 (this one works great). Combine it with the Torque app and you have a powerful diagnostic tool that provides you with way more information than the scanners the auto parts stores provide.

u/Do_not_reply_to_me · 5 pointsr/answers

Quick answer: Holding the button for 5 seconds forces the engine to turn off

Long, rambling and occasionally off topic answer: I have a manual gearbox ford with push button ignition.

When you're driving, the push button doesn't turn off the engine. It goes into a special mode above some minimum speed like 5mph. If you decide you do want to turn off the ignition while driving you can override the lock out by holding down the button for 5 seconds.

I don't recommend that you try it, because I don't know under what conditions the steering lock will kick in. I expect it won't engage until the car is stationary but I can't be sure without testing that so my advice is leave this stuff to idiots like me to find out. I've done that once before in a traditional ignition car (pulled the key out while driving and the steering lock engaged and I drove up the curb onto the verge before I could stop the car).

So anyway, I tried the power button thing the other day because I was curious, I pushed the clutch down so that I was freewheeling and pressed the button while rolling forwards at about 10mph and nothing happened. Then I held the button down for a few seconds and the engine cut out. I quickly pressed it again and the engine started up (I wasn't ready to test the steering lock thing on that occasion, maybe next time).

Specifically about the computer crashing: OK, so what I've described above relates to normal operating conditions. The car performing as intended. What about a software crash? I can contribute something on this as well although I'm not a vehicle designer.

I have a cheap Bluetooth diagnostic module, [like this] ( Not that exact one but something similar. Mine is modified with a switch to enable dedicated Ford diagnostics using some software called Forscan.

So the switch allows me to flip between standard OBDII wiring and custom Ford wiring. It's important that I flip the switch to the correct position when Forscan is sending out Ford commands or OBDII commands.

I flipped the switch during a session, sending signals down all the wrong wires. I was driving and attempting to diagnose an exhaust issue. Whatever I did, I did it at exactly the wrong moment because the car completely shit the bed.

The instrument panel crashed, all dials went to zero. All readings (mpg for example) went to dashed lines (--- mpg). "Shit. I hope this isn't permanent" I thought.

The engine went into limp mode (reduced power). I was pretty concerned so I pulled over. Basic controls were still working gas (with limited power), brakes, power steering. But nothing complicated was working. Cruise control gone. Even the power windows wouldn't auto close, manual close only.

Anyway, I'm an IT guy so I figured the old favourite "turn it off, and then back on again" was called for.

I pressed the stop/start button. Nothing. "SHIT" I couldn't turn the fucking car off, even stationary. "SHIT, FUCK". Then I remembered about holding down the button so I tried that and it worked!

It seems like Ford planned for the worst case scenario and wired a pretty low level override into the button. Even when the whole computer system had given up and shut down, the override still worked.

u/foramen_magnum · 5 pointsr/TeslaLounge
  1. Hand wash with a quality microfiber mitt using Optimum No Rinse Wash.

  2. Dry with quality microfiber towels using a small amount of Opti-Seal as a drying aid. (I cheat and use an absorber shammy instead of microfiber towels, but technically they can cause microabrasions.)

  3. Clean your wheels and shine tires however you want.

    I don't recommend a car wash at all, but do not use a car wash that touches the car. I summarized so just ask if you want more details.
u/AB3DC · 5 pointsr/teslamotors

Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine -

And here is a how to video -

u/lanmansa · 5 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Ditch the Shamois and get a microfiber drying towel, like a waffle weave texture. Huge difference.

For hard water, try adding a cap full of Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine to your bucket of soap. If helps soften the water.

When you dry, add a single spray of a quick detailer or instant wax to each panel, and use that as a drying aid. Helps a lot.

I'd also recommend to dry as much as you can first with an air compressor or leaf blower, just remove as much water as possible first before you get it with a towel.

u/seoulstyle · 5 pointsr/teslamotors
u/Buddhalite · 5 pointsr/cars

Check out Optimum No Rinse. As long as you don't have caked on dirt it'll really serve you well with keeping the exterior clean.

u/poopfeast89 · 5 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I've never heard of ONR, is this the kind of thing you use?

Would you recommend it? Thanks!

u/neildmaster · 5 pointsr/Detailing

OK, you have a ton of questions in there, let's try to sort it out.

First off, you need to assess the paint, and not just assume you need to do all the steps you mentioned (and some you didn't mention). If the car is new, you probably won't need to clay it, as the paint is probably 'clean'. Here is how you figure out if it is clean. After it is washed, i.e. all of the loose, surface dirt is gone, simply gently rub the paint, especially on a horizontal surface like the hood. You can do this while it is wet. How does it feel? Clean paint feels soft and smooth and makes no noise when you rub it. Dirty paint feels rough, hard and makes a 'swishing' sound when you rub it. If you hear anything, it needs to be clayed. Most clays are very similar, so there is very little difference in any of them. They all do the same job about the same. Also, as to your twice a year question, it all depends on the condition of your paint. I wash my car often, so stuff doesn't get embedded in it, so I don't need to clay my car (its been over a year).

You see, paint is like skin. It has pores, and when it gets dirty and is not washed, contaminants (dirt, fallout, metallic flakes, etc) clog the pores and it loses its shine and that's when it needs to be clayed. The clay removes those embedded contaminants.

As for the wash: any good car wash soap will do. It's not rocket science. As long as it says car wash, you're good. ONR is a good alternative once you have protected the paint and it needs a very light wash, or it doesn't have much dirt or grime on it, but you want it cleaned. It is a whole process to clean your car via ONR, but get some, its good stuff. It is also good for interiors, windows, lube for claying your paint, etc. It is concentrated, so you can dilute it how you want.

Wax vs. sealant. Yes, this is confusing. To simplify: sealant is just man made wax. Wax is good stuff, but since it is a natural product (secreted by Brazilian Palm trees), it doesn't last very long (two months is great for wax to still be effective). Sealant simply does the same thing as wax, but can give you up to 8-9 months of UV protection, water beading, etc.

As for layering protection on, it's not really worth it, IMO. Is it worth it to wear two condoms? Not really. Just use the best stuff you have (best as in easiest to lay on, take off and looks good, and lasts a long time) which is personal preference. To continue, if you are going to layer, you want to put the longest lasting product on first. it would't make sense to put on a spray wax that will last a couple weeks, then sealant on top of it. The sealant is bonding with the spray wax, not the paint itself, so it will come right off. How often? As often as you want to. When it doesn't seem like you have the protection, cover it back up. Should you strip old stuff off? Only if you want to, but most products enjoy layering on top of itself (i.e. a couple of applications of the same stuff a few months apart).

Do you need a pressure washer/foam cannon, etc? Not necessary, (again this is just my opinion, but I do this for a living) but if you want to spring for it, a pressure washer makes cleaning easier. I think foam cannons are a waste of time and money. They're fun and look cool, but don't do much that a good, proper pressure washing couldn't do. To answer your last question, No, you still need to do a contact wash. A protected car should only require a light wash with suds and MF towel or mitt or whatever. If you just rinse, foam and rinse, you'll be disappointed, because it will still have dirt on it.

I'm happy to share more of my opinions, on processes, products or whatever. Answering questions is what this sub is for!


u/wzrds3 · 5 pointsr/scion

Do either you or your wife have access to an Android device with Bluetooth? If so, you could pick up one of these and use this app to get the same (if not better) results. I have not done this, but one of my old coworkers has this setup on his toaster.

As far as installation goes, anything with an OBD interface is really simple to connect. The hard part is finding a place to mount the display.

u/bogseywogsey · 5 pointsr/leaf
u/gridded · 5 pointsr/Miata

OBD2 Bluetooth Adapter: Amazon Link

u/bryanchalker · 5 pointsr/volt

Several out there should work fine, but I got this one:

Just remember you will need to install the custom PIDs (requiring the $5 purchase of the Torque Pro) for the Volt/Bolt, in order to use properly.

u/KungFuSnorlax · 5 pointsr/starterpacks

Go buy this code reader on Amazon and then buy the torque app. For like $26 you can see exactly what's wrong on your car and clear codes. So much easier than taking it in somewhere.

u/eclectro · 5 pointsr/Showerthoughts

All scanners are not the same, some are better than others.

This is probably the best BIFL "value buy" scanner that works with all cars with obdII interface.

And the Torque app works great with it too.

u/paracelsus23 · 5 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

I bought this bluetooth reader off Amazon and the Android application "torque".

Not only does it let me read and clear codes, but it gives me all sorts of real-time information which is cool but useless to me since I'm not tuning my car (vacuum/boost, rpm, timing advance, fuel flow, throttle position, intake temperature, etc.). Not bad for like $30 for the reader and the app.

u/bongklute · 5 pointsr/vintageaudio

Deoxit is the first step.

Access the backsides of the volume knobs and switches, and clean them with the Deoxit. I can guarantee that this will improve the situation.

u/RTB779500 · 5 pointsr/techtheatre

For countryman E6s, we ALWAYS make sure to use the response caps to keep makeup out of the diaphragm. Also, the cables run about $60, as you know. Making sure people are careful with them is our biggest problem here, we burn through cables like candy when we do kids shows.

For especially sweaty actors we like to use dielectric silicone ( to seal the connection between the headset and the cable. Keeps everything nice and waterproof but still conducting.

I have owned a set of 12 E6s for about 8 years now, they very rarely fail on me. But replacement cables are a MUST!

u/academician · 5 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

I'd recommend getting a multitool or something that looks like you got it at a hardware store. Or if you're serious about having something to break your windows in an emergency, maybe something designed for that purpose like this or this.

u/Icanopen · 5 pointsr/phoenix

Hammers suck at breaking car windows, unless you have a Lifehammer and we should all have one of these. A lot of accidents incapacitate the vehicle and the personnel. also if you get stuck in a flash flood or flooding your windows will not roll down and it is impossible to get the door open.

u/samtabar · 5 pointsr/askscience

I have a LifeHammer in my car. I've never used it and hopefully I never will.

u/Zumorito · 5 pointsr/Unexpected

Surprisingly it doesn't take much force at all with the right tool.

Ninja rocks:


u/AnTi90d · 5 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

You might try some quick dry electronics cleaner.

Remove the batteries, liberally spray that stuff up in there and let it dry.

Make absolutely certain that it's 100% dry before you try to insert the batteries back into it.

If you can't find quick dry electronics cleaner, locally, Amazon carries a few brands.

u/_thirdeyeopener_ · 5 pointsr/projectcar

Couple things to check that I can think of. Check all of your fuses. Disconnect the battery, then go ahead and just replace them all, they're probably all ancient anyway. Make sure to replace with correct amperage fuses. Check for corrosion on the contacts while you're at it. Clean with contact cleaner and wire brush/emery cloth.

The brake light switch on my '62 was a pressure switch mounted on the brake Master Cylinder, '61s are the same. It's ten bucks from rockauto and wouldn't hurt to replace it, since it's 56 years old.

But the main thing I would look at is the bulkhead connector that goes from the fuse block under the driverside of the dash through the firewall into the engine compartment. My car had some weird electrical gremlins that were intermittent and super annoying. That bulkhead connector is hiding under the Master Cylinder and is held in place with a single bolt. Disconnect the battery to be safe, disconnect that bulkhead connector and inspect the contacts. Mine were corroded bad enough to cause my issues. If yours are corroded, spend some time cleaning both ends of the connector with contact cleaner and a wire brush/emery cloth. When you bolt it back together and it still seems loose (like mine did), pull the bolt out and put a small washer or two on it to help keep the connector tight.

If none of this helps, you might have a bad ground somewhere which will be more a bitch to fix since you'll have to start chasing down grounds to make sure they're all still connected and not corroded. And as has already been mentioned, check and replace all the bulbs. Relatively cheap and probably should be replaced anyway.

All that being said, invest in a Shop Manual for your car. They are worth every penny! Those old books are like the Big Bible o' Buick and will show you how to diagnose, repair and replace almost every part of your car. I highly recommend that anyone with an old car find the one they need and buy it immediately, you'll be glad you did. It will also include highly detailed wiring diagrams ;)

Lastly, sign up on, the single best and most comprehensive Buick messageboard on the interwebs. It's always active, the folks are nice and helpful, tons of info and a large classified section. I highly recommend it.

u/troubleondemand · 5 pointsr/audio
u/BackroadTwistarama · 5 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Hijacking your comment for visibility, although I'm a bit late to discussion here.

I had the same problem many in here have experienced, and this stuff below is specifically made to evaporate dirt that cause unwanted inputs in electronic devices.

I have two joycons that drifted. One was terrible, and nothing I did helped. The tester thing would be full-blown stuck to the right, but after a couple of sprays of this stuff it was good as new. It came back a bit once or twice, but I think there was some residual dirt in there and it's been perfect for the past few months after being completely unusable. After I did this another joycon started to drift a little and one spray has completely fixed it.

Just make sure the joycon is not on when you use it. The spray is liquid for about 10-15 seconds so you don't want anything to be running in there or it could cause damage.

u/JoeBeckett · 5 pointsr/motorcycles

This is what I went with. I've had no issues in the 3 years I've owned it.

u/DarkStarPDX · 5 pointsr/amateurradio

Cheap, small, and safe...

I'd get this one:

u/refboy4 · 5 pointsr/LifeProTips

Had a post like this awhile ago with more insight for those who care...

I guess I can repost my own post:

I do this kind of thing as a part time job for CDOT (Colorado Dept of Transportation) when I want extra money to buy something stupid, so I have some good insight as to what gets people stuck.
>An extra belt and a breaker bar big enough to move the tensioner.

I mean, I don't carry an extra belt, but I'm pretty good about checking wear on it every few weeks or so. However, a breaker bar is definitely definite definitely recommended. It's most useful for wheel lugs, but it'll work on a belt tensioner too.

>Spare hose clamp for if you blow a radiator hose off/ intake hose/ turbo hose/ whatever. They cost like nothing (literal cents), but when you need it you need it. You ain't going anywhere with no air intake/ turbo intake/ coolant hose.

>Bottle jack? instead of the stock scissor jack?

No you don't need a full size floor jack.

If you have a regular passenger car (like a 4 door car) the scissor jack will work fine. They are kind of tedious to jack up and down but it's for an emergency, not everyday use. The bottle jack is a good idea for large SUV, Trucks, and RVs. Make sure you have a base or something on it if you have any sort of lift. Also remember that you will have to jack up much further to install the inflated tire than you had to for the flat one.

Only other advice I have here is actually pull that jack out and figure out how to use it. They all gotta be different and some are like oragami in how this click into that, which slides onto that... Reading the user manual and deciphering the IKEA-esque pictures on the side of the road just adds frustration and stress to the already crappy situation.

>Fix-a-flat kit

Meh. A spare tire is the better option. Make sure you check it's inflated at least every couple months. It's very very common that people have a spare, but that its flat. It does you no good as a spare if it's flat. A tire plug kit a definitely a good thing though. If you do HAVE to use the fix a flat, prepare to have a tire shop guy charge you twice when they find it all over the wheel. It's a nightmare to clean off, and as others have said will ruin you TPMS sensor. Depending on the make/model of your car this could be another $35 to $100 you have to spend, in addition to a new tire.

>Lights! and flares

(Ignore the guy in the comments that said lights are only emergency vehicles. He has no idea what he's talking about)

For an emergency kit, flares are better since they don't require batteries (that you will forget to change/ charge). However, lots of road flares last 30 - 60 minutes. It should take you 20 to change a flat. Be careful with the flares as many types drip as they burn. Don't light yourself or the side of the road on fire. I know you're thinking "well duh" but it happens every year in CO where I live. Someone lights the brush on fire near the highway cause they put flares out and got to fixing their car and not paying attention.

That said, you can get LED road flares that are bright and really good at attracting attention. Look up the laws in your area. Some places restrict the color you can use. Amber (orange) is usually a pretty safe color to choose. If you can get on that has more than one color, it's better. Monochromatic light doesn't give people good depth perception. Avoid as much as possible bright white strobes facing rearward. All you're going to do is blind the people you are trying not to get hit by.

> Screwdriver set with misc bits

Like others have said, this won't be super useful for your car, but for various other tasks it can be a huge time/ money/ aggravation saver to just have basic tools for random things. Ever tried to get a hose clamp off with just your fingers? You just have to remember to put those tools back in the kit. You don't need Snap Off for this as they likely won't get used that much. Don't get the cheapest ones at Harbor Freight either. Get the " pittburgh professional" ones.

> Socket set?

You can get the set if you want to, but at a minimum get the socket that fits your lugs. Get the drive size that fits the breaker bar you got from above (likely 1/2"). When I do this for work I had a cordless impact driver which was awesome, but a breaker bar doesn't require you to remember to charge batteries, and I haven't found anyone that just wasn't strong enough to use one. A breaker bar is like $15. Cordless impact driver powerful enough is like $250+.

>Glass Breaker/ Hammer

Honestly, you'd be better off with a spring loaded center punch. You have to have room to swing the hammer, and some people (elderly, children) just don't have the strength to hit the window hard enough. With the center punch, you just touch it to the glass and push until it clicks. Many cops and firefighters use these as a means to get you out. If you go this route, have a seat belt cutter, pocket knife, something...

>Fire Extinguisher

It's better if you mount this somewhere where it wont get buried. My favorite place is honestly the trunk lid or right in front of the taillight area in a car, under one of the seats for a SUV or truck (if you can easily flip it up). Imagine yourself suddenly panicking and thinking holy goddamn s**t my car is on fire, and scrambling to get to your extinguisher. Put it somewhere you can scramble to easy. If it takes longer than 10 seconds, its not accessible enough.

  • Basic first aid kit. useful for everything. Make sure if you use it, restock it.

    > A little portable air compressor

    can really help if you get a flat and have a flat spare. Not necessary but sure is nice. You can use it for other things too (blowing up sports balls air mattresses etc...). They usually take FOREVER to fill a tire, but if you're stuck anyway...

    >Roll of duct tape (because obviously).

    I've used it to tape up bumpers after an accident so they can at least get off the road, to secure wiring, to a whole number of other things.

    >Spare fluids.

    Maybe. Gallon of coolant or distilled water at least. quart of oil, etc... This also depends on where you normally drive. If you never leave the city and a parts store is usually a couple blocks away then you don't have to bother. If you live outside the city and it would take you the entire afternoon to walk the next 15 miles to the store...well, plan accordingly.

    > Tire pressure gauge.

    To check main and spare tires. Don't trust the ones on the gas station pump (they get slammed around and scraped on the ground). I've seen them as inaccurate as 15 - 20 p.s.i. off.

    > Jumper cables.

    Better yet, your own jump pack.. Jumper cables are only useful if someone else is there to rescue you.

    > A tow strap

    is kinda nice, but if you're stuck and there's nobody else around it won't help you (unless you have a winch/ come-along). Nothing wrong with having one handy in case someone comes along though.

    > Tire chains.

    Don't know where you live but in CO there is actually a new (ish) chain law for passenger vehicles. When it's in effect you are supposed to have chains (or alternative traction device) in place. It's not just for truckers anymore. I take them out in the summer.

    > A shaker siphon

    Makes transferring fuel way way way way way less infuriating than dealing with the stupid friggin gas cans you have to buy nowadays. All the silly safeties and valves, it's like playing goddamn BopIt. They also work for coolant and washer fluid too, not that you would be dumping gallons of washer fluid... How to use it I don't carry a fuel container in my truck with me, but FYI it's illegal (in the US at least) to transport fuel in anything other than an approved fuel container. I doubt you'll get in trouble, just something to consider.
u/Wincal308 · 5 pointsr/ProtectAndServe

This little guy.

The county deputies all get issued them out here and I picked one up after seeing theirs.

u/CokeCanNinja · 5 pointsr/knives

I would recommend a true escape tool, such as the Resqme. It's a keychain with a seat belt cutter and spring loaded window punch. I think being spring loaded is a must, because they can still be used if there is no room to swing your arm, or if you are injured. I don't think a knife with added window breaker or seat belt cutter will be as good.

u/cahua · 5 pointsr/LifeProTips

My dad got me this

u/Ratus_ · 5 pointsr/flashlight

Links are fine.

Nyogel is good or you could just use this, it works just fine too.

I have a tube from 2003-ish that I'm still using, its basically a lifetime supply.

u/GraytoGreen · 4 pointsr/SALEM

starters ain’t too bad. could be something as easy as having a dead battery. cranking amps are a thing. take the battery out and take it to a auto shop to get load tested. that’s a decent starting place

Edit - or better yet buy a battery tender and give it a charge. If it sounds like its trying to turn over or at least "clicks" then you need a new battery.

u/The-Brettster · 4 pointsr/Harley

Battery Tender 021-0123 Battery Tender Junior 12V, 0.75A Battery Charger

Battery Tender Junior

This is what I use

u/WinifredBarkle · 4 pointsr/250r

Definitely get a battery tender for when you don't ride it for awhile.

And yeah, the connections the tender comes with look like little alligator clamps, so I can't imagine how you'd do it with a regular set of cables.

Get the battery tender, clean the carbs, turn up the choke, and go again! God my next bike will be fuel injected!

u/mr-peabody · 4 pointsr/HondaRebel300

I use this guy. Works well.

u/SpideyTingle · 4 pointsr/motorcycles

Rain gear

Hydrate and trail mix

A throttle lock

Go around your bike and look at every fastener. Get the tool that is required and put it in your tool bag

A dry sack


Attach it with Rok Straps

A tire patch kit. Won't help if your tire is flat, an electric pump is nice, but room is limited for you. Hand pump? is a good way to lay out routes and download to a motorcycle specific GPS. You may not need this. When we do trips, I lay out the route and share the folder with friends and they can download from this site and upload to their GPS. Did I mention you may not need this.

Don't go full digital on anything. Maps etc. Buy an atlas, cut out the states you're going through and highlight your planned path. Now put states that are near each other on opposite sides (Kansas on one side, Missouri on the other side) and go to OfficeMax and laminate it. Make them a size that will fit in your tank bag map pouch.

There is no such thing as too much gas. There is such a a thing as too little. These don't suck.

Motrin on the regular

Alternate foot position! Highway pegs are great.

Start with brand new tires. Hopefully they will last the entire trip, because you're looking at about 4k or more miles.

Battery Brick


This is or something like it for the various stuff you may need to charge at night in the motel room.


Plan your stops and check out the reviews of the motels before hand. When I roll into a town, I pull over (when I have cell signal) and open Google Maps and type "motels in town X" and start looking at prices and reading reviews.

Before you pay, ask the rate and ask to see a room. If it's a dump, you don't have to get your money back. Ask me how I learned this was a good way to go.

Get an early start. Don't ride past dark. You better be riding in the warm, I assume you don't have heated gear. Colorado is cold at altitude, especially after dark, even in the summer.

Get a balaclava.

Ear plugs!!!!

u/TexMarshfellow · 4 pointsr/VEDC

Meh. The actual resqme is made in America, and only costs $4 more on Amazon.
If this thing is potentially going to be used to save my life, I'd like it to be the real product and not some cheap Chinesium knockoff.

u/Hovsky · 4 pointsr/videos

Good a time as any to remind people to carry something to help escape a car that's under water/on fire.

u/NearlyLegit · 4 pointsr/EDC

At the moment I'm running:

TEC Centipede - Titanium ruler that's about 8.5cm in length. I measure things irregularly, but not enough to warrant a full tape measure which will take up more pocket space. Feels super well made.

Leatherman Micra - Just got it, and I'm torn on how much I like it. Whilst beefy, the scissors sometimes flex whilst cutting thicker items (so it goes between the blades laterally). I've never had this problem with my Classic SD, and may end up moving up to a 74mm Victorinox like the Executive for the sake of the bigger scissors.

Boker Vox Access Tool - Titanium prybar with a carbide glass breaker on the end. I've come from the SD Titanium Prybar which was bloody useless for nail pulling due to the groove literally being a 'V' without any guiding for nails, and the edge of the bottle opener kept digging into my hand when I used it. Although for it's follies, the tip lip is very thin (yet sturdy) and can get between thinner crevices than the VAT; I also drove in a couple of nails with the SD, and in seeing if I could unscrew a half in one with the VAT, I chipped the guiding groove for the nail puller (not severely, but it was kind of disheartening as I literally just bought it and didn't think it was much of a stress test).

Kershaw Pub - Technically this isn't on my keys, as I put it in the 'snuff pocket' in my jeans, it's beefier than the VAT for box opening, and the blade is about the same size as a Stanley blade. It's a bit of a different design and great for fidgeting. Not so great for fidgeting when people see you, but fun all the same.

I've currently retired:

The SD Ti Prybar - See above, a great little prybar, hampered by a frankly stupid decision to put a bottle opener on it. NOT EVERYTHING NEEDS A BOTTLE OPENER.

Victorinox Classic SD - A present which I absolutely love, however I'm in the pursuit for something 'beefier', although the scissors on this are second to none for all the little odd jobs I've had over the years.

Uncle Bills Sliver Grippers - Brilliant tweezers for splinters, however the first day I put them on my keys, and then sat on my keys, I hadn't put them in the holder right and they stabbed me in the arse. These tweezers have never been on my keys since.

Resqme Car Escape tool - Had it on the keychain, realised I'd only ever use it in the car, and now I keep it in the glovebox as I have the glass breaker on the VAT.

Leatherman Squirt PS4 - An absolutely fantastic multitool let down by a shit pair of scissors which have a lot of play between the blades. It results in a lot of rough cuts and ultimately spoils a perfect out of the box multi-tool. In the pursuit of better scissors and a lighter set of keys, I've currently retired this fantastic piece of kit.

Leatherman Brewzer - I absolutely loved this little prybar, but it broke in half when I tried to get a little shelf stud out of a bookcase, and it just shattered my confidence in the product to the point that I can't be bothered sending it in under warranty, as I know I'd never use it again.

Gerber Dime - I bought this at the same time as the Squirt PS4 because I couldn't decide between them. After taking them both out of the packing and comparing them side by side one after the other, it was instantly obvious that the Leatherman was just the better fit, so this was retired pretty much instantly and was gifted within an hour.

True Utility Keytool - First keytool I ever had and it was great for years! Practically invisible and as I only used it for the file, the mini screwdriver, and the thread cutter, it was fantastic. Never had an issue with the quality, and never had the need to take it off the key it was on, I only stopped carrying it because I don't use the type of key it works with anymore, and don't want to carry it round for the sake of it when I have so many other options. Great little buy though.

I'm probably going to buy:

Victorinox Manager - This is pretty much the best multitool for what I really need, and it has a pen. It's just 58mm and I really want a larger pair of scissors, however it has all the tools I've used recently, and it has a pen!

Another Prybar. As soon as I find a beefy titanium 80mm~ straight prybar which doesn't have a bottle opener on it, and instead has another useful purpose I'm going to get it. Hell, even if it doesn't have a secondary purpose I'll probably get it as well.

u/khark · 4 pointsr/aww

May I recommend one of these for the future incidents that certainly will not happen if you purchase one?

u/Lion42 · 4 pointsr/flashlight


NyoGel is great but expensive. SuperLube is great but cheap...

u/ctyt · 4 pointsr/flashlight

Is it terrible that I use this stuff to lubricate my lights? Granted, my most expensive is a Convoy S2+.

u/nubbinator · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

It's a thinner oil lubricant that's non-reactive with the plastic and often mixed with Krytox GPL 205, a grease lubricant. It's the "ultimate lube" for MX switch contact points (aside from clicky switch stems) according to some people at Geekhack, Deskthority, and some Korean sites. I recently got some as a gift and will try them out with my pseudo Ergo Clears in which I'll be using 67g Korean springs.

Of course, some people don't really see a difference between it and a cheap tube of Superlube. Some actually prefer Superlube and others think the Krytox is a little better, but not worth the premium.

u/wishful_cynic · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

It's no different than people wanting a pen that feels nice on paper and in their hand. Anyone who spends time inputting text appreciates a high quality instrument with a nice feel.

How do you use your keyboard?

Do you value the number pad?

How hard do you press the keys?

Is backlighting important to you?

I recommend buying this switch tester from Amazon to see which switch feels best to you. They're all Cherry MX switches, which are the most common switches that you'll find on boards from Amazon or (another online vendor with free shipping).

u/Dreizu · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace

If you haven't experienced any of the switches, I highly recommend buying a key switch sampler like this

u/tunersharkbitten · 4 pointsr/Toyota

something like THIS

u/timothycavinaw · 4 pointsr/cars

My girlfriend's family bought this for me one year.

Thanks, but no thanks.

u/JamesFuckinLahey · 4 pointsr/ames

I use the two bucket method and Optimum No-Rinse(ONR). It does a fantastic job, doesn't scratch, doesn't pull the wax off.

Of course, if your car is really gritty make sure to go and power-wash it at Lynn's first. Just go in, and do a quick and dirty there for $5 and then finish up at home with ONR and take your time.

Make sure you have a grit guard installed in your rinse bucket and use a good quality wash mitt and plenty of microfiber towels.

u/jamblaell · 4 pointsr/prius

Optimum No Rinse is highly recommended. Use 4 capfuls in about 4 gallons of water in a 5 gallon bucket, wash mitt, and drying towels. Takes about 15-30 minutes to do an average sized car.

u/kachaffeous · 4 pointsr/teslamotors

Been going back and forth on the coating. I did watch some youtube before started and did the two bucket method. From my research it looks like if you just wax it every 3-4 months it should have near the same protection as ceramic. I do have the stuff to diy cermaic coating saved in my Amazon cart though. Was thinking about giving it a go.

Used this wash and wax from Amazon.

u/squisheystick · 4 pointsr/subaru

if you have a power drill, get the 3m restoration kit. it looks like this.

i mean you dont have to have a drill, but it would make it easier.

this is what mine looks like before and after. haha

u/trainspotting2 · 4 pointsr/Volkswagen

Kinda. Not really. You're better off spending the $13 on a restoration kit.

u/jeffj95 · 4 pointsr/Lexus

This seems like a decent product.

u/Seeker80 · 4 pointsr/cars

You can either try a a restoration kit, or spend more on all-new lenses.

It depends on how much of a $/improvement ratio you're looking for.

u/nalydnalydnalyd · 4 pointsr/jetta

it’s essentially a micro abrasive compound, which is used to buff out scratches, hazing and whatnot. it needs to be used after wet sanding to get rid of the hazing left behind from the 3000 grit. then you polish after the compound to get an extremely clean, haze-free result. it’s best to use a buffer to apply them but can also be done by simply rubbing with a microfiber pad.

basically you can get all of these products in a simple 3m headlight restoration kit instead of buying a bigger amounts of each separately. if you only need to hit the two spots left from removing your mudguards, i’d suggest just getting a kit instead:

u/a6mzero · 4 pointsr/Shitty_Car_Mods

I was gonna say this but that works too

u/zx2gamer · 4 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Don't get something old from the 80's or 70's. it'll just make getting parts harder.

If you want a reliable beater that will be easy to repair get a 90's Honda. They are simple to work on, parts are plentiful, and as a daily driver they get amazing mileage. If you yet an obd2 model (96 and newer) get one of these so you can scan the codes.

u/neuromonkey · 4 pointsr/fitbit

There are a few brands of plastic polish on the market. Another thing that people recommend is a vigorous rubbing with toothpaste.

u/nagurski03 · 4 pointsr/VEDC

> Portable jump packs will inevitably stop working after a year or two

I got [one of these monsters] ( back in 2015 and it's showing no signs of slowing down.

I used to have a Firebird with constant electrical problems and so I've used it to start that car easily a hundred times.

u/CaptainJamesMaySlow · 4 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Clear coat provides protection over the headlight after sanding/polishing. I used this after restoring my headlights, came out real nice.®-Glamour-Gloss-Aerosol-Usc-3680061/dp/B0043B7UQY

Video applying a clear coat to headlights:

u/aMiracleAtJordanHare · 4 pointsr/CFBOffTopic

If it's an ongoing thing, you can get an OBDII-to-bluetooth dongle for about $11 and a $5 phone app called Torque, then you can read and clear codes from your android phone. Plus see live engine data, which is neat. I think iOS has wifi equivalents. For me it adds a ton of peace of mind when I can read a code as soon as it pops up.

u/2old2care · 4 pointsr/amateurradio

These are amazing radios for their time. I think the model Y600 is a vacuum-tube model that works on dry-cell batteries or on 120/220V AC. Because these radios used heavy, expensive, and non-rechargeable batteries, they were optimized for very low power consumption. The model 1000 is more recent and appears to be solid state (transistors instead of tubes).

If these have been stored under good conditions, they should be fairly easy to bring back into operation. I have a simpler Silvertone radio from that era that sill works fine on two AA batteries--and it has never needed any repairs. There are no expensive parts in these radios, but you might have trouble finding replacements for some of them. The tubes are still available from many sources, but they are actually unlikely to be bad even after 40 or 50 years. You may have bad capacitors, particularly those in the power supplies, but if the radios have been stored at near room temperature (especially not in a hot attic), even these may be just fine. Portable radios actually are less likely to have hard-to-fix problems than similar line-voltage powered ones.

One almost universal problem with these radios is corrosion of the many switches they use, particularly the ones that change the frequency bands. The best way to clean these is with a contact cleaner formulated to remove the oxidation. The same cleaner an be used on other controls (volume, tone, tuning) and sliding contacts such as the telescoping antenna.

The tube sockets are also troublesome corrosion spots, so each tube should be removed and the socked sprayed, then the tube pushed and pulled in the socket a few times to "wipe" the contacts. In the newer radio, the transistors may also be in sockets--very unusual today but fairly common on those days. The transistors are also probably not bad, but they are easy to test. Not sure about this radio, but generally at that time, most or all transistors were a couple of basic, general-purpose PNP devices. Their characteristics are not particularly critical and cross-reference replacements are easy to find.

Be absolutely sure when you remove tubes/transistors to replace them in the correct sockets and in the correct orientation (for transistors--tubes fit only one way). Make careful notes of which goes where. A wrong tube in a wrong socket can potentially do a lot of damage, and the sockets are identical.

The schematic diagrams of these radios are probably available online, maybe for free if you're lucky---search the model number and "schematic" using Google images.

Hope this helps. Message me if you have any questions.

u/HoboStink · 4 pointsr/vinyl

I'd hit it with some Deoxit and see if it helps the problem.

u/MojoMonster · 4 pointsr/Guitar

Are you sure it's a coil split and not series/parallel or OOP?

Because those require the middle position.

For the other thing, your pots need cleaning. Some DeOxit will clear that up.

u/txzman · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Most grease like the one you have is NOT dielectric - ie it still conducts electricity. So if your PCB comes into contact with the grease while it is touching anything you will have a short. Here's what you need -

You can also pick up cheap dielectric grease at any auto store for cheap.

u/looseseels · 4 pointsr/guitarpedals

Any dielectric grease or white grease should do the trick. Plus you can find it in almost any home improvement or auto parts store.

u/Ophidios · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Sure thing! I used this case, this plate, this foam, switches are a combination of this and this, I used genuine Cherry stabilizers from here, lubed the switches with a mix from Mehkee as well, lubed my stabilizers with this, and used this keycap set.

That should just about cover it. :)

u/MWisBest · 4 pointsr/Cubers

If anybody is looking for a cheap and effective cube lubricant you can buy in local stores, dielectric grease is working fantastic for me. I always have some around for working on cars anyway. It's essentially pure silicone (PDMS), safe to use on plastic and rubber etc. A little bit goes a long way.

u/Moistened_Nugget · 4 pointsr/WTF

Get yourself one of these. Hopefully it'll never come in handy. There are plenty of cheaper versions, this was just the first one that popped up

u/ieatfishes · 4 pointsr/hardware

They make cleaner specifically for electronics:

u/Naail · 4 pointsr/xboxone

I used to have one of electronic cleaners to fix my old sega dreamcast gamepads :D, if it persists or anything worse happens ,I'll probably use them again.

u/C-creepy-o · 4 pointsr/Cartalk

This is what I use. I would stay away from the mini blue ones. I hear they have more issues not working on cars. The one above worked on a 99 chevy c1500, a 99 toyota camry, a 2002 protégé 5, a 2012 mazda speed 3, and a 2002 toyota tacoma.

I use torque pro as my app. It reads code plus a whole lot more. There is a version to check out for free as well, however it costs 5 dollars. Torque lite is the name of the free program.

u/heyawesomepeopl · 4 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

I got this. Works beautifully everytime paired with the Torque Pro app ($5).

u/paperwaller · 4 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

My friend has this one and it seems to work well enough actually. I'm going to order one for myself right now. I have a magnetic phone mount that goes in my CD slot that works really well due to the layout in my car. I might use a spare phone to run as extra gauges and a music player. You could get a BlueDriver but those are about $100 though I hear they are really awesome. Though honestly for just $10 it can't hurt to at least try it out.

Edit: For $20 this one looks to be a bit nicer. I'm ordering one for myself right now. Thanks for reminding me. These are really handy tools and just plain fun to play around with.

u/Effimero89 · 4 pointsr/Showerthoughts
u/toaster_knight · 4 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

BAFX Products 34t5 Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool for Android Devices

I use this adapter for everything with torque. Has never failed to connect and is really fast when watching live data. I use the paid version of torque.

u/offermychester · 4 pointsr/projectcar

Also buy the torque app. If you're curious about what you're engine is doing this is the best 30 bucks you can spend. Reads codes, clears them automatically, tells you when your engines warmed up, will display and log the output of your obd sensors.

u/ElCangrejo · 4 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

I have two of these. Work great. I have only used them in Ford vehicles though.

u/Turboedtwo · 4 pointsr/Audi

Easy. I've got this.

u/z3dster · 4 pointsr/buildapc

there are switch testers, bought one to play with before I bought my mx black cougar, then my mx black steelseries 6vg2, then my mx black rosewill...

u/mrselkies · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

>Switches, where can I try them? is there anything like blues that aren't loud?

You can try out switches by buying a switch tester like this one. I'd say the closest thing to feeling like blues without the click would be cherry MX clears.

> are reds hard to type on?

I wouldn't say they're hard to type on, but that's a bit subjective. Reds are Cherry's lightest switch offering, so someone who likes very heavy switches might find it difficult to type on them, but for someone who's just getting into this stuff or doesn't have a particular preference there isn't anything about Reds that make them hard to type on. They're linear switches, meaning they don't have a click or bump for the actuation, they're just straight force all the way down to bottom-out.

>What is your personal favorite?

Right now my personal favorite is linear switches, with a force somewhere in between reds and blacks. I'm currently using cherry MX black switches and I have some springs that I'm going to modify them with to make them just a bit lighter.

>TKL or full size? seriously have no idea what to do here

This is all about how big you want your keyboard to be. Personally I started out with a full size but with each keyboard I got from there, I went smaller and smaller as I found that there are a lot of keys on a keyboard that I just don't use. I went with TKL and loved it, then tried out some of the smaller sizes like 60%, 65%, and 75%. I decided I liked the 60% but needed my arrow keys so I settled on 65% with my Clueboard.

>RGB is it worth it?

If you're into backlighting RGB is great. There are a few keyboards that are great, solid keyboards that get recommended a lot here that have RGB. Check out the CoolerMaster Masterkeys Pro S and L (S is TKL and L is fullsize) and the Ducky Shine 5.

>macro keys/volume controls are they worth it?

This is something that's pretty much non existent in the higher quality enthusiast-grade boards. You can get volume controls through function keys and such but dedicated volume controls are rare (pretty much just the Das Keyboard 4 that I can think of) and macro keys are very much nowhere except for cheap, badly built "gamer" boards by Razer, Corsair, etc. You'll find that the mk community is all about less is more as far as keyboard sizes go, so adding more keys just to do undefined "macros" with is the opposite of what the community's going for. Instead, it's all about reducing the size of the keyboard and adding more functions to existing keys for more efficiency. For example, a lot of people forego dedicated arrow keys and instead have arrow keys on Function+WASD. Personally I like my arrow keys but that's the idea. The highly sought out keyboards in the community are mostly fully programmable, so basically every key becomes a "macro key" at that point.

u/olbaze · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace
  1. Get yourself a key switch tester to find out which Cherry MX switch you like best. There is no "best" switch, regardless of whether we're talking gaming or typing.
  2. Find a keyboard from a good brand that carries said switch. For most cases, Coolermaster has the Master Keys Pro lineup that comes with white, RGB or no backlight. For the rarer switches (e.g. Cherry MX Green), go with something like Code V2.
  3. Here is a quick summary of the different Cherry MX switches. Tactile means there is a bump partway down the keypress that will tell you when the press has activated, good for typing to make you type faster. Linear means that there is no such bump. Clicky means that the bump will also result in a physical click for an audible feedback as well. Clicky switches are quite loud due to this. The Soft/Medium/Stiff refers to how easily the switch will go down: Softer switches are easier to press, with benefits being less finger fatigue over extended periods of typing, but also making bottoming out more common, resulting in more noise and slower typing.

    Personally, I went with Coolermaster's Master Keys Pro L RGB for the following reasons:

  • It has RGB and does not require software (except for fine tuning the effects)
  • It has a numpad.
  • It has a standard key layout (unlike Corsair or Razer) and uses Cherry MX switches (unlike Logitech or SteelSeries), making customizing or replacing parts/keycaps easy.
  • It has media shortcuts in a location that makes sense: The Navigation cluster (Ins/Del, Home/End, PgUp/PgDn), rather than the more common F-keys. F-keys are bad because it can result in accidentally pressing the f-key together with Ctrl or Alt, with results varying from Alt-F4 (close program) to Ctrl-F5 (refresh with no cache in web browsers).
  • It does not add extra side to the keyboard for the sake of a logo (e.g. Razer, Corsair, Logitech) and is compatible with third party wrist rests (unlike Corsair or Logitech).
u/jkxs · 3 pointsr/SubaruForester

I apologize in advance for this long post. None of these are "must gets", but they are what I got for my 2016 Premium forester. I'm posting this for my own future reference as well as to help some people who are wondering what accessories might be good for their new forester. I highly recommend ordering from Jackie from Annapolis Subaru @ 443-837-1422 as she can get you some good prices on the subaru accessories as well as WeatherTech products! I saved on WeatherTech shipping costs (~$20) by ordering through Jackie and the warranty is the same as if I had bought them through their website.

Please note that some of these accessory links are for my specific car year, model and configuration. I have a 2016 Premium forester without eyesight (affects the Covercraft/heatshield sunshade - they also have eyesight compatible sunshades!).

Also, I personally didn't get my windows tinted, but I think that is something that you should seriously consider doing :)

Speaker kit

Tweeter kit

WeatherTech DigitalFit floorliner (1st & 2nd row)

WeatherTech cargo/trunk liner (without bumper protector)

Weather Tech TechCare floorliner and floormat Cleaner/Protector Kit

Gorilla mud flaps

Covercraft's UVS100 sunscreen - use promo code FREESHIP

Exterior Auto Dimming Mirror w/ Approach Lighting

Luggage Compartment Cover (manual rear gate)

Rear bumper cover

Auto-Dimming Mirror with Compass and HomeLink

Rear Seat Back Protector

Two Home Depot 5 gallon homer bucket

Heatshield sunshade (driver/passenger, second row, rear windshield, sunroof) - note that their website only shows only one side window (driver/passenger), you need to call in to ask them to add the second row side window ones - on my invoice it says part #1425S-A and #1425S-B

Antigravity Batteries AG-XP-10 Multi-Function Power Supply and Jump Starter (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)

Viair 77P Portable Compressor Kit (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)

Amazon stuff:

EZ Pass Holder for VA Flex

Aux cable

Stickershield (parking stickers, etc)

Dropstop seat gap filler (driver/passenger side)

Door panel removal kit (for speaker kit install)

Two grit guards

Microfiber Drying towel

Microfiber cloths (3 pack)

Car wash shampoo

Wheel brush

Resqme (window breaker/seatbelt cutter)

Wheel cleaner

Microfiber wash mitt

Reindeer costume for Christmas

Headrest coat hanger

Road reflective triangles

Duct tape

Odor eliminator

Tire air pressure gauge

OBDII Scanner (Bluetooth)

First aid kit

u/Enemyboatspotted · 3 pointsr/cars

Here is the one I'm using there are cheaper ones but I jsut opted for the one with the most/best reviews.

u/KingClam2 · 3 pointsr/Cartalk

OBD2 isn't something for people with expensive cars, just... vehicles in general. It's the way your car tells you what is wrong with it.

big old list of Honda trouble codes

Most stuff that goes wrong in a car, there is a code or set of codes which will tell you what to check/fix/clean/replace

Can read or clear. Can check pending, current, or historic.

Can run KOEO and KOER self tests

>to put on my vehicle.

Not a permanent addition to your vehicle. I mean, you can... but no need to think of it that way.

here ya go, there are some partially defective obd2 adapters out there, but this one is legit Read their item description.

u/darwinopterus · 3 pointsr/femalefashionadvice

I just had to shell out a ton of money for a new window regulator because I shut the door and the window FELL DOWN INTO IT, so I totally feel you on the stress thing. I'm constantly worried something else is going to happen. Last year and the year before I was having problems with my throttle body, and it was entering throttle failure mode while I was driving, so basically the car stopped working while I was on the road. Utterly terrifying. Only happened once on the highway, fortunately. It's fixed now, but I'm still paranoid it's going to happen again.

This won't help now, but you can buy an OBD2 wireless scanner and plug it into your car to get error codes, and there are some pretty good apps out there that will tell you what the codes mean. I have one and it makes me feel less anxious because when I take it in, I can tell them exactly what code I got so they'll be able to pinpoint the issue more quickly.

u/rgoertzen · 3 pointsr/VEDC

I purchased a [BAFX one from Amazon] ( that has worked reliably for me. $22 currently, though this one is Android only. Don't know if that's a problem for you.

u/Complexifier · 3 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

No, the OBD2 scan tool has bluetooth. Your car has a place to plug it in, then you can connect to it using an android phone/tablet with torque.

u/graymulligan · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

So I thought that too, and someone else saved my day so i'll pass it on.

Motoscan. (I don't speak iPhone, but there's a version available)

You'll need a Bluetooth OBD reader, and the conversion cable for BMW's round port.

Plug it in, install the app (you'll need the middle tier to do resets, I think it's 23 bucks), connect, and more service lights. Plus, i's the same OBD reader that will likely fit your car's OBD port, so its handy if you get a trouble code on the car too.

u/LJ-Rubicon · 3 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Yea, that's 2nd grader level science experiment style, if I'm being honest. There's so many variables and loss of solid testing in the way you did it, that it really shows nothing.

You need to get this (or one like it)

BAFX Products - Wireless Bluetooth OBD2 / OBDII Diagnostic Car Scanner & Reader Tool for Android Devices - Read / Clear Your Check Engine Light & So Much More!

Then get the Torque app

You'll then be able to read actual, real time fuel consumption

Spoiler, everything is normal

u/Flipper303 · 3 pointsr/BmwTech

I'm going to be straight with you. Save 50-100$ and buy yourself a bluetooth scanner. I bought this an installed the app Torque Lite (free) it has saved me so much cash it's not funny. BAFX Products - Wireless Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner

Plug it in, itll pull the codes from your car, you can look them up on forums and boom. Diagnosis for free. I hope this helps!

I've been taken too the cleaners too many times. Those people run a business and need to make money. Some do it honestly, some dont.


u/Snownel · 3 pointsr/CrownVictoria

It's free, see here, you can register as many 3-month trial licenses as you want. It requires an OBD2 reader that plugs in under the dash, I use this. It also requires a laptop with Bluetooth. You can do a lot of diagnostic stuff with Forscan but you can also connect that OBD2 reader to an Android phone if you have one and run apps like Torque.

u/maverickps · 3 pointsr/Libertarian

Spend a few bucks on a code reader:

and the torque app is free:

it can clear the codes too w/o pulling battery cables.

u/JacePriester · 3 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Oooh oooh, I know this one!

So Matraxia is pretty much right, whatever is cheap, but I'll give you some more info you should know.

Pretty much all of the OBDII scanners out there, at least for consumer use, are based on the ELM327 IC. The ELM defines a serial, text-based protocol as an input, so you (or an app like Torque) give it a series of commands just like it were a modem, and then it handles communicating with your vehicle via several different protocols, all pretty much transparently. That's why one program like Torque can talk to pretty much every vehicle, via the ELM chip's magic.

The thing about that is, the firmware for the ELM chip got leaked a long time ago and there have been unlicensed Chinese copies made ever since. The real ELM has had upgrades since then, and the Chinese version has sort of kept up, but in the knockoffs some things work right and some things don't. They're frequently slower, buggier, or don't support certain commands, compared to the real ELM chips.

So how do you tell which you're getting? Mostly the price. The knockoffs are cheap, like this one:

No way that's a real one. Not for 4 bucks. That said, I have no idea what the cutoff is where you might consider it legit.

Personally, I have this one:

I have sent it a number of commands over the serial terminal to verify that it's a real ELM327 chip and it has passed all of my tests. That said, it could still just be a good knockoff with a lot of the ELM's newer commands implemented. I really don't know for sure.

Either way, works great.

As for gathering data and exporting to excel.. that has nothing to do with the OBDII adapter you get and everything to do with the software you run on your phone. I have no idea of Torque or others support this but it seems like they should.

u/WRX_RAWR · 3 pointsr/subaru

I have one of those bluetooth ones and use Torque Pro on my Android phones. I have had no issues.

ODBII tool (there is a small one, I havent tested it)

Torque Pro

u/doubleskeet · 3 pointsr/LifeProTips

This is a good one I recently bought and has good reviews:

BAFX Products 34t5 Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool for Android Devices

u/_augustus_ · 3 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

I had an old Saturn once with similar symptoms and it turned out to be the EGR valve - I removed it and cleaned it with carb cleaner and a toothbrush. In my case I was able to diagnose as I had an OBDII scanner and the Torque app for my phone:

Good luck!

u/nssone · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

BAFX Products Bluetooth Diagnostic OBDII Reader/Scanner for Android Devices

u/Downtempo655 · 3 pointsr/prius

For 3800 if the HV battery was truly replaced I'd totally go for it. Buy an obdII scanner from Amazon and download the torque pro app on your phone. Ask the seller if it's okay if you run an obdII scanner first before doing so. Check fault codes ect and also do a hybrid battery test with the Prius doctor app. If all looks well and it checks all the boxes I see no reason not to buy it.
BAFX Products Bluetooth Diagnostic OBDII Reader/Scanner for Android Devices

u/Bloodhoof · 3 pointsr/leaf

Congratulations on your new Leaf! For anyone who doesn't have a similar device already, definitely plug in one of these and connect it with the LeafSpy app on your phone before your 7 days is up:

You want to be sure the battery is in good condition before you lose your opportunity to return the car. Good luck and enjoy your new Leaf!

u/Rhizal · 3 pointsr/AMA

BAFX Products 34t5 Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool for Android Devices

Here is an Amazon link to one, they are about $20 for the unit and the app I use (the full version is worth it) is $4.99. It's a fully customizable app with tons of data readouts. You can learn a lot about your car this way without breaking the bank.

u/nightauthor · 3 pointsr/prius

This is the one I have, works flawlessly on my Gen 2, 3, and family members' various vehicles.

u/Sidney5101 · 3 pointsr/AskMen

If you own a car from after 1996 this guy, or one of the ones like it.

u/WNW3 · 3 pointsr/freebies
u/Torisen · 3 pointsr/cars

If you have an Android phone get one of THESE and then THIS app for your phone. $29 and you can read your codes and learn a lot more about what your car's doing.

The sensor probably works with iPhone too, but I've never tried it.

u/ruscan · 3 pointsr/Volkswagen

Sorry I forgot to respond. What worked well far me was the following:

  • BAFX Bluetooth OBD Scan Tool - $23.99 (I've seen them price it as low as $19.99 though depending on the day, may be worth watching the amazon page for a couple days)

  • Carista Android app - free download but it costs $20 to unlock the feature that actually lets you apply new settings.

    I can vouch for this combination as I was able to successfully use it to configure options (such as windows and fog lights) in my CC. No problems. The only catch is that they claim the BAFX tool only works with Android. I have an Android phone so it's not an issue for me. If you have an iPhone you may have to look for a different tool. Carista actually sells one on Amazon but it's pricier ($40 last time I checked).

    This won't get you the full array of features of a real VAG-COM but it's also $200 cheaper.
u/the4thmatrix · 3 pointsr/FocusST

You cannot make the screen permanent without an OBD II reader, but you can access the splash screen by going into the testing settings of Sync 3 (hold down track forward & eject), bypass the speaker test screen, then press Testing Settings, then change the theme to Ford-ST. When you power down your car it'll show, but upon startup it'll go back to the default Ford-timeless theme.

As far as I know the only way to make the change permanent is to change the hex value in Forscan. I was able to change it with this OBD II reader from Amazon. With that being said, the version of Sync 3 v2.2 going around the internet is not the official release so the one that is finally released to the public may have the ST logo enabled by default.

u/what_democracy · 3 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

OBD to bluetooth dongle? Like this?

u/ghatid · 3 pointsr/Cartalk

If you have a smart phone, you can get one of these:

You can use a free app called "Torque" which gets you a lot of good information. There are other cheaper obd2 bluetooth readers, but they have fewer reviews. (I'm sure they're fine). You get more information than a basic cheapo obd2 reader at the same cost.

u/le_suck · 3 pointsr/CrazyIdeas

This is what OBD/OBDII is for. You can buy a bluetooth OBDII adapter for your jailbroken IOS or stock Android device and use a free app to get all the information a mechanic can during a diagnosis.

u/BGTBGT · 3 pointsr/cars

If you have an android you can do this for $28 to any car with an obd2 port.
Buy the bluetooth obd2 reader...

Then download the torque pro app to your phone.

I use the track recorder plugin to see my autocross run speeds and lateral Gs and such.

u/TheGuy968 · 3 pointsr/Hyundai

I just ordered one of these and got this app. It tells you quite a bit about the car, speed, coolant temp, you can even run 0-60 times 1/4 miles. Way cheaper than getting an actual gauge.

u/Chizzoink · 3 pointsr/cars

This. Pick up any Android phone for uber-cheap (just has to have bluetooth and Android 2.0 or higher), buy Torque for $5, and buy one of these adapters for $24 Prime.

Total cost would be around $50-75 depending on the phone, and then you have an emergency phone, too.

u/code-sloth · 3 pointsr/cars

Actual link so others can see more easily:

Yep, that's the one I have. Works like a charm for two years now.

u/neilthecellist · 3 pointsr/leaf

Yes, what this person is saying. Download Leaf Spy Pro (yes, it'll cost you a few bucks off Google Play, oh well), and get an OBD (I got this one - ANY Leaf you come across, plug it in, load up Leaf Spy Pro, and look at the top right number in the main screen. Here is an example -- the 50.8% at the top at 67.4% SOC (state of charge) means the car is probably around 75-77% SOH (state of health) -- you don't want to buy a used Leaf like mine with that much battery degradation unless you just won't drive long-distance (my trips to Portland from Hillsboro are very rare, only about once every two weeks, and it's only 35 miles roundtrip).

BTW for anyone wondering from my screenshot, yes, the battery does get that hot. It's 85 F outside right now outside my house, and I just came back from the grocery store. Yes, Leaf Spy Pro does indeed say my battery is at 127 F. One time I came back from Portland and my battery temped at 205 F according to Leaf Spy Pro. This is what us Leaf customers get for buying an EV with no thermal management system...

u/dlesinski · 3 pointsr/Trucks

I bought one on Amazon for like 25 bucks a while back. The app I used with it, Torque, is only available on android. Really good app though. No problems with the scanner itself. Had a good range too. Will post link when I find. Btw I know for a fact that there are other apps that work with this scanner. So don't worry if you do not have android.


u/clockworkdiamond · 3 pointsr/WRX

Scan the ODB2 port and see what the code is. From there, you should at least know what sensor is throwing the check light.
I had similar issues that the dealer would just reset, so I got a Bluetooth scanner that I just leave permanently connected. When it goes off, my phone looks the code up and if it is bullshit, I can just reset it myself. I use Torque as the software. Pretty cool to just watch all of your data with it too.

u/randomusename · 3 pointsr/CasualConversation

I've been using this one-
Had mine since 2012, from Amazon. No complaints here, it has worked well for me. But pretty much any one will do. They all use the same chip.

u/g2g079 · 3 pointsr/LifeProTips

I bought this one about 5 years ago. Still working well. You also need an app. I personally bought Torque Pro for $5, but they have a free version as well.

u/Lucky72114 · 3 pointsr/XTerra

I use an OBD2 Bluetooth reader and the Torque app on my phone to check codes for my 2007. I use this scanner, seems to work well
(I had cheaper bluetooth reader before that worked on my 2008 Frontier, but didn't work on my Xterra).

u/RunsWithSporks · 3 pointsr/everymanshouldknow

I got this one for $18 last year. It went up to $24 now. Works well, just plug it into your OBD slot, fire up Torque and pair it with your smart phone (I use a Nexus 7) and that's it. I keep it in my car and since I always have my phone or tablet with me, I can pull readings whenever I need to.

u/AWildAnonHasAppeared · 3 pointsr/cars

This seems to be the best one out there for $25

Everyone is talking about how awesome and essential it is. Mine should be arriving tomorrow too which is awesome. Good luck!

u/sords · 3 pointsr/LifeProTips

More money, but this will give you more flexibility. I learned about these devices from another redditor. With this device, check your own system and turn off your own engine light. I bought it because I plan on buying a used car in a few months and want to plug it into any potential car I am thinking about buying to read the computer

u/jenbanim · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

You should try getting a switch sampler to see for yourself. I haven't tried the blues, but the clears are exactly what I was looking for in terms of being tactile, but not loud. But bear in mind there is definitely a break in period with these ones. At first they feel kinda rough as they slide, but that goes away with use.

u/hprx · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I had no idea what it would be like, so I ordered a key tester from amazon.

The exact one I got was:

Both the original and chiclet keyboards have a slight bump to them, but the chiclet are a lot less force to push down. After trying it out, I realized I liked typing with the least amount of pressure, hence, the reds which are linear. The browns are very close to the X60 and X200 keyboards.

I was actually considering getting a DIY version and putting in Mattias switches.

u/n8jeff · 3 pointsr/starcitizen

It's a Mechanical Keyboard switch tester. Basically, it has one of each of most types of Cherry MX Mechanical keyswitches, so you can figure out which kind you like best before committing to one.

I think it's this one

u/Magic_Sloth · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Goto your local store and try the keyboards on display or buy a Cherry MX Key tester Original site Amazon

u/ElMechacontext · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I'd recommend either the Cherry Blue edition of the CoolerMaster Storm QuickFire Rapid. It's a great first TKL board, also cheap enough that you can get into it without tremendous regret if Blues aren't really your thing.

If you want to test out some switches and see what's best for you, you can get a switch tester. This one only comes with Cherry switches, but that should be enough for an intro.

u/QNeutrino · 3 pointsr/buildapc

For keyboards it should be a simple affair by the way. Most people who are saying they want to test out a keyboard are saying such because they want to test out the switch or better explained the feel of a keystroke. You can easily pick up a switch tester from amazon on the consumer level, so I assume you can pick up something like that for a store. Something like this for example.

u/pet_the_puppy · 3 pointsr/cars

3Ms kit is amazing. It works wonders. The one "with protectant" isn't worth the $10 premium, they just include a packet of wax that you might as well just buy a whole bottle of separately.

u/NewbieTwo · 3 pointsr/Miata

If you're talking about the headlights, the 3M Headlight Restoration Kit works wonders and has never failed me.

u/tampon_whistle · 3 pointsr/scion

this is a great kit, used it on my truck and my brothers corolla

u/JaredTizzle · 3 pointsr/BMW

Restored my headlights about 6 months ago using this 3M Headlight Restoration System (Works GREAT)

These Predator Orion V2 LED Angel Eyes w/ Remote angel eyes from umnitza (Would NOT recommend them! However the angel eyes are awesome)

Clear Corners (Clean fit and no problems)

Stealth Bulbs (A big pricey however they look AMAZING)

Have clear side signals on the way, along with some Langka blob removal for some touchups.

u/nycska · 3 pointsr/Integra

The quickest and easiest temporary solution is to grab some Plast-X from a local auto store. Rub it in and wipe it off with a microfiber. It will help, but they won't look new and it won't last very long.

The more permanent solution is to sand the lights, 500 then 800,1500,2000,3000 etc. Then compound and polish with Meguiar's 105/205 or similar. Then you'll have to apply sealant (not wax, but something like Meguiar's M21) to protect from UV rays. This will bring them closer to new than any other method or product. If the lens isn't cracked and you spend enough time on each sanding step, they'll be near perfect.

3M also makes a nice little kit for a drill that you can find on amazon. If you don't already have a DA polisher, the kit is the way to go. It comes with an aggressive little pad, sanding discs, and polish. I found that 105/205 worked better than the single stage 3M polish, but it did work. The kit is nice as well because the orange polish pad it comes with is reusable, and with the right products (105/205) can be great for spot corrections on little scratches and swirls in the paint.

If you choose to sand, consider pulling the bumper off first. Our lights are tough because they are sunk in there so deeply.

u/Onlinealias · 3 pointsr/cars

Go get this. Use as directed and your headlights will be as clear and shiny as new.

BTW, don't get any other brand. I've used them and they all pretty much suck. The 3m stuff I linked to is like freekin magic.

u/hansmoman · 3 pointsr/GolfGTI

If the exterior surface has become yellowed or foggy, forget the toothpaste. High grit sandpaper (600,1000,1500) + polish. There are many premade kits available such as the ubiquitous 3M headlight restoration kit. There is another version that you can use that's done by hand if you don't have a drill, or you can just buy the sandpaper and polish separately. The process & products are the same as for polishing paint.

Edit: Here is a video showing how it works:

u/epyon22 · 3 pointsr/subaru

I used the 3m kit. Works really well, it's fairly involved but is the correct way to do it. You also will have to put some sealant or cover on it to prevent it happening again. I got the xpel kit. Ammonyc has a good guide.

XPEL H3804C Clear Headlamp and Fog Lamp Protection Kit

3M 39008 Headlight Lens Restoration System

u/asterysk · 3 pointsr/Cartalk

I actually restored my headlights on my own not too long a go. After reading reviews for several online, I decided on 3M's. Benefit to the 3M kit is you don't kill your wrist since you're doing all the sanding with a drill instead of by hand. Just be sure to apply the tape (not included) LIBERALLY, especially around sharp corners so you don't scratch your paint.

u/Quravin · 3 pointsr/oddlysatisfying

3M's headlight cleaner on Amazon.

All you need is a regular ol' drill.

u/bmac92 · 3 pointsr/Miata

I used this 3M kit to restore them (which I bought when it jumped to $15 for 2 days instead of the average $10 :/) and Meguiar's Keep Clear coating.

If I had to do it again, I'd probably go with this Meguiar's kit that includes the keep clear. I say this because my wireless drill cannot hold a charge and to do both headlights it took me a long time.

u/geekywalrus · 3 pointsr/GrandCherokee

I used this 3M kit on my WJ when I still had it, and it came out looking fantastic. If I spent a little more time and was less nervous on doing it, they would have been 100% clear, but they were probably 90% there anyway. Here's a comparison!

I know it's a little hard to tell, but the headlight on the left of the picture was done with the kit, and the other hadn't been done yet. It definitely was a big difference (for both appearance and brightness during night driving) and I'd recommend using it if you have the time, patience, and cordless drill for it!

u/theseareyourpants · 3 pointsr/BMWE36

The yellowing was pretty significant so I decided to go with a kit with the sanding attachments to get it clear again: 3M Restoration Kit

Took roughly an hour once i had the headlights out, its super straight forward and all you'll need is a drill. The ones with the wipes or sandpaper sheets were priced the same at the auto part stores around me but decided to go with that one(~$10-20).

u/crackadeluxe · 3 pointsr/howto

Amen, although there are cheaper and better kits IMO.

u/SugarWaterPurple · 3 pointsr/Cartalk

I have the same scanner, it's not very good. They use a knockoff ELM327 chip which doesn't work very well.

You're better off with something like this:

I have both and never use the bluetooth one, the standalone unit is much more convenient and reliable.

u/Undercover_Hitler · 3 pointsr/AskMen
  • Learn how to change a tire. Do it in your driveway or in a parking lot on your own. It is a lot better to know how to do it right when you need to. And it is much easier to learn how on a warm sunny day than on the side of the road in the rain, or the middle of the night.

  • Keep a tire pressure gauge on you. If your tires appear low, check the pressure. Tip: Sheetz gas stations (at least the ones in Virginia) have free air (most gas stations do). Their systems have a digital pressure setting and an auto-cutoff. Just set the pressure, and it will stop filling when it gets there. Otherwise use your pressure gauge to dial it in. Most cars will feature the tire pressure for front and rear tires on a sticker in the front door frame.

  • Water will work as coolant in the summer. If it is colder outside, you will want to buy antifreeze. Most gas stations will sell it.

  • If a warning light on your dash comes on (check engine, oil light, alternator light, etc) you will need to get it checked/fixed soon. Check engine lights can sometimes be nothing (sometimes it is just a loose gas cap), but it is always good to get it checked. More on that in a minute. If a warning light on your dash starts flashing, that is a serious problem. Pull over, turn the car off, and call a service station

  • You can save yourself some money by getting an OBD2 Reader. These read your check engine codes and tell you why your check engine light is on. Some shops will do this for you for free, some will charge $20. Most corporate owned auto stores will let you borrow theirs in exchange for your drivers license. Personally, I say just drop the $20 and get one, it saves time later on. They sell ones that are much more expensive, up to thousands of dollars. You don't need these; these give "live" data of the car's sensors and other things that won't help anyone other than a mechanic. A small $20 one will read the code and probably clear it if you want.

    Simple run down on how to use them (should be in the instruction book). 1. Plug it into the car, with the car turned off. (The plug will almost always be under the dash) 2. Turn the key to the ON position. (Do not start the car, just one click before it. Like if you wanted to turn the radio on but not start the engine) 3. The code reader will usually say READING for a few seconds and give you one or more codes. They will look something like P0430. Cheap readers usually have books with them that will tell you what they mean. More expensive ones ($100-$200) will define the code. If you don't have the book, just google the code.

    Depending on the code, you may or may not understand what it means. This is okay. If you google the definition of the code, you will almost always find someone describing the general idea of what is going on. Again, you might not be able to use this info to repair the car yourself, but it can give you an idea of how serious a problem is, and may prevent you from being ripped off by mechanics.

  • Anticipate maintenance and repairs. Tires are expensive. Thankfully, they don't need to be replaced all that often, but changing 4 tires at once can easily be $300 bucks for cheap new tires. Avoid used tires. Keep $100 saved up to get the oil changed. Newer oils need to be changed less often, but the shop should advise you when to come back. (I'm assuming you aren't planning on changing your own oil any time soon) Nothing is worse than knowing your oil is dirty and overdue for a change but not having the money to make it happen, and old dirty oil will shorten the life of your engine.

  • Every 6-8 months, when you get gas, go into the gas station and buy fuel system cleaner. It will look similar to this. Simply pour the entire bottle into your gas tank and then fill up your tank to the top. Also, and this is very important! DO NOT PUT THIS IN A DIESEL VEHICLE

  • Finally, find a good mechanic/service station. Ask locals around your town. Check reviews. The difference between a good one and a bad one can be hundreds, if not thousands. Before I learned about cars, I went to several mechanics for my first car.

    One never updated me on their progress, charged super high prices, and recommended unnecessary repairs. Then I went to one that would come out and talk to me 2 or 3 times throughout the repair (giving me updates, letting me know of other problems he noticed, etc), he would never perform an additional repair without taking me into the shop and showing me exactly what he was talking about. At one point, he ordered brake parts from down the street because I thought I needed new parts. Turned out it was a whole different issue with different parts. He happily sent them back, free of charge to me, and walked me through what he was going to do. I still take my cars to him when they have "gremlins" that I can't figure out. Usually they charge a pretty big service fee per hour, but from the very first time he charges me 1 hour less than whatever it takes him. His reason is always "I wanted to figure it out as bad as you did. Forget the money, this thing became my puzzle."

    But I've been rambling on that. Point is, find a good mechanic and stick with them. It will make a huge difference.
u/WRSaunders · 3 pointsr/explainlikeimfive

It's easy:

  1. Find out why the light is on. This could be a loose gas cap or a real problem. There is a $14 code reader gizmo for this.

  2. Fix the problem. This of course depends on what th problem is.

  3. Reset the MIL (that's the real name of the "check engine" light). Your reader gizmo can also do this.
u/vinnyvecchio · 3 pointsr/cars

That's what I assumed unfortunately.

I got a $20 scanner on Amazon, and it can check inspection monitors. It's a simple tool, but it will go through the list of monitors (evap, cat, etc.) and tell me if it is ready or not.

I guess I will just have to hope for the best if I don't see any CELs. Thanks for the answer!

u/eck- · 3 pointsr/Cartalk

It's worth getting your own. I have an Autel similar to this one. I've only used it once and it retrieved the code no problem.

u/NeptuNeo · 3 pointsr/LosAngeles

I recommend buying from Amazon a diagnostic code reader so you can read the check engine codes yourself and verify what the garage is telling you. I bought one a few years ago for only $15 and it works great, there are newer/ better ones now but here is the one I use:
[Diagnostic Scan Tool for OBDII Vehicles] (

u/Uranium234 · 3 pointsr/sandiego

I have my office in sorrento valley. If you want to drop by tomorrow morning I can let you read the code or possibly borrow my reader.

I have this one

u/inversesandwich · 3 pointsr/pebble
u/OverExclamated · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

brosader's idea isn't a bad one either. Admit you have sinned and tarnished their otherwise beautiful product. Beg for forgiveness. You may just end up with a sacrificial pane to practice lasercutting on.

u/FPFan · 3 pointsr/fountainpens

A little late to this, but get some clear spray lacquer, Home Depot or Lowes will also carry it.

To apply, spray a light coat, dry, 2000+ grit sand paper very light. Repeat 5-10 times. Then use a polish like Novus Plastic Polish -- will only need 2 and then 1 for this use, 3 is for heavy scratches -- to clean up after the last coat.

Glad to answer any other questions

u/SwineLegionNullified · 3 pointsr/Mid_Century

You might try Novus on the scratches, this stuff rocks:

NOVUS 7100 Plastic Polish Kit - 8 oz.

u/dave_890 · 3 pointsr/VintageRadios

Link to make a replacement 67.5V "B" battery from 9V batteries.

I have a hi-def image of the label of an Eveready #455 (45V) B battery if you want it. Actual size, so you can cut the cardboard holder a *bit* smaller, then wrap a print of the image onto the cardboard. Use Photoshop or another paint program to change the numbers.

Plastic polish would remove the oxidation from the case. Get the Novus kit.

u/SuperTongue · 3 pointsr/NZXT

I looked around and found some plastic / acrylic cleaner that's suppose to work well with case windows.

I ordered some and should have it Friday. I'll let you know how it turns out!

u/iaalaughlin · 3 pointsr/camping

Jump starter with compressor. I have one made by Stanley (not the below linked one though, they don't make mine anymore.)

u/tasmanian101 · 3 pointsr/bicycling

Actually someone did. Almost every university security has a jump-start/air pump combo unit. They regularly have to jumpstart peoples cars

u/tmluna01 · 3 pointsr/MouseReview

You can mask off certain areas if you like. Also, try 2k spray as a top coat for maximum durability.

u/RandyDanderson · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing
u/Bengbab · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

You can't use standard rattle can clear coat. I did first time and had same issue. I then learned about 2k clearcoats (2 part epoxy coat in a rattle can). It's def gas proof.

Here's my bike before/after:

u/CalZeta · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

2k two-part clear coat seems to be what you're looking for. It's not cheap, but will withstand exposure to gasoline from what I've read.

u/FYWGI67 · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

I did a rattle can on my motorcycle. Here's an album of the whole process. Rattle Can Paint Job I think it turned out pretty well. The end step should be using a 2 part clear coat that is resistant to fuel, they have some that comes in a spray can too. it worked well for me.

I used this page as a resource

Edit: this is the clear coat I used

u/lkmartin · 3 pointsr/customGCC

Hey! The best thing to do is to apply some form of protectant. This Glossy Clear coat spray is pretty well-used in the community, just be careful to spray in a well ventilated area/ use a respirator, since this stuff is pretty dangerous if inhaled.

u/stinkycretingurl · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

every single time i overfill my tank or get drops of fuel on mine i say a little thank you prayer to spraymax 2k. i CANNOT imagine what my bike would look like without that clear coat. i have had gas just pour down the side of the tank before. spraymax 2k is the shit.

u/rvlvrlvr · 3 pointsr/bicycling

You could probably get a set of these from ebay in white (or whatever color you want) and stick the small ones on the front of your levers. Maybe scuff up the finish of the levers first, apply the decals, and then spray on a clear-coat (having taped off everything else, of course) to get it to stay on there without being rubbed off.

I've used this aerosol-spray clearcoat to great effect when I stripped and re-finished the frame of my Trek 5200 (before, after). Problem with this product, however, is that it is a two-part aerosol and thus has a usable time of about 48 hours from the time that you puncture the inner chamber to start mixing it. So it's kind of a waste if all you're clear-coating is just the levers...

u/DrubieDaGuru · 3 pointsr/SubaruForester

I'm glad someone else likes this stuff too!

Yep, I use a cheap bluetooth OBDII adapter like this one and the $5 torque app on my android phone. The free version of torque works well but is limited. Unfortunately, for i-devices you'll need to buy a more expensive one (like obd-link) or get one that communicates to your phone via wifi.

I upload the log to Dropbox and do some quick Python scripts to analyze and plot some things.

u/lethaltyrant · 3 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

If u get a bluetooth obd 2 sensor and download an app I can check codes and more. Ill find the stuff and edit this

Here is a sensor might need to find another to fit ur car so just an example

The app I use is torque

u/Bonneville865 · 3 pointsr/Triumph

I use this one:

But this one would probably also do the trick:

Should be able to find them at your local auto parts store, or even Walmart or someplace like that.

u/Ski1215 · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

[Batter tender ring terminal harness] ( and a [Battery tender JR] (

I have them on both of my bikes. The plug just dangles out anywhere it won't get in the way. Over the winter I rotate each bike every few days.

In your case you could leave it there and forget about it, or take it off and put it back on every once in a while.

Source- have a ninja 250 covered with a bedsheet that my fiancee "rides" about as much as your wife.

u/keoie · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

I got mine from the Harley dealer, but from what I see this is basically the same thing.

u/Darkfire66 · 3 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Get a trickle charger, battery tender jr at walmart. Charge overnight, done.

I get Free overnight from Amazon on some things. Might be worth a shot

u/brokenblinker · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Try this one, most people don't need the features of the original one posted. The junior covers most needs:

Its < $25

u/r4ptor · 3 pointsr/GS500

Battery tender junior.

Tuck a quick connector harness under the seat and you'll be golden.

u/aDDnTN · 3 pointsr/Triumph

when you buy a battery tender it will come with a lead for connecting to the battery, as well as a lead that has battery clamps/clips on it for temporary charging.

this "lead" has two wires on one end and a fitting like the USB adapter in /u/afeagle1021's post (except it is the MIRROR IMAGE of that fitting). The two wires will go on your battery terminals (aka posts) via loops installed on their ends that go around the battery terminal screws, where you bike's electrical system makes it's contact with the battery.

there is an indicator for polarity on at least one of the wires, make sure it is attached to the corresponding battery terminal. then you plug your bike into the tender overnight and plug the usb adapter in when you need to power your phone when you are riding.

you might need to get creative about how you run your usb cable if you want it secured and out of the way.

Link to lead sold without tender

Link to Battery Tender Jr.

u/meest · 3 pointsr/SVRiders

Charge the battery. Then start the bike. Get a volt meter and measure the battery. Does it read 13.6/14? Then your stator is working. If its reading below 12.2/12ish then no its not.

Any cheap multi-meter like this will do.

To make it easier to check You may as well buy a battery tender if you haven't already. Run the lead somewhere (I ran it under my passenger seat so I can plug in a USB adapter to charge my phone while I ride. But then you can meter off that in a pinch also. Not to mention it will slowly trickle charge you battery (It won't be fast by any means, but I've done it myself after this past winter, as my shed has no close by power and I didn't have time to bring my battery inside)

If its showing good when running you have a power draw somewhere. keep the meter connected while the bike is off. then pull one fuse at a time until it appears the load goes away(aka the voltage stays the same for a while without it draining down. Especially if its dead in 4 minutes you should be able to see it quickly). You may have a short in your lights. That's normally where I would expect it.

u/Supervisor194 · 3 pointsr/ATV

On the small-ass batteries you're going to find on ATVs, it doesn't matter. I use a Battery Tender Jr. on my Recon 250. Works like a charm.

u/achtagon · 3 pointsr/Cartalk

likely a nail or screw in the tire. Driving can shear the head off and make it hard to see. A bead leak or valve leak tends to be annoying but a lot slower loss (like 20psi a week). Bring it to a tire shop or if you want to fix yourself you'll need to jack it up and remove the wheel, use a pliers to pull out the offending object, and as long as it's not near the edge of the tread you can plug it with this. It takes a bit of muscle to do.

u/chicos240 · 3 pointsr/Harley

First of all, I am glad you asked for advice, this is what this community is for, and some are just being friendly by making a little fun. It's really cool that you are planning this out and looking way in advance. I am also a 48 owner so I know what its like to have fuel anxiety. You are going to need layers, water, power bars and basic bike stuff . I have ridden in Arizona in the winter, and even though the sun is shining, 50's is very cold once you factor in the wind from motorcycle riding.

  • Layers, go get some type of wool underlayer, it stays warm when wet and also cools you off when sweaty. Seriously, get wool.

  • Water, you need more water. Here is why. That time of year you have a chance of low humidity which means you need more water. I know you are not going to die if you don't drink enough water for one day, but you can get mood swings, joint aches, lack of mental acuity, all which can be dangerous on a bike.
    Power bars and trail mix are fine for quick energy and keeping the belly from grumbling.

  • For the bike you need a few things. Tire repair, fuel and storage. For tire repair , you need a way to plug it,and a way to inflate it. I carry this and a couple of c02 cartridges to get me out of a tight spot. This guy does a great video.

    Now you need fuel reserves, I carry a larosa bag with a small can and add a bigger cans depending on how nervous I am about fuel consumption. I have been stuck on the side of the road on highway 10, 40 miles west of blythe, and it sucks. Do not store these on the wive's backpack. Get some cheap fuel bottle holders

    So I would do two things from here until November.
    Find a way to get your bike ready to be more of a pack mule. And get your wife more seat time, and maybe a gel pad?
    You can get cheap bags at revzilla

    Best of luck and post some pictures!
u/xdownsetx · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

I keep a Slime pump and a plug kit under my seat. It has come in handy more than once and it was a major life savor being far from home.

u/Redditing_on_toilet · 3 pointsr/prius

Buy one of these and a small 12v air compressor. This + a little muscle will be adequate to handle 99% of tire problems. Complete blowouts are rare and this would not be enough.

These patches (while a little hard to put in) will last the life of the tire. I've used a dozen on car and motorcycle tires.

Slime 1034-A T-Handle Tire Plug Kit

u/FarmerPalm · 3 pointsr/whatisthisthing
u/maddiedog · 3 pointsr/scooters

For that short of a ride, everything I've said here is relatively irrelevant... I misread your original post and thought you said "1000mi." You're just a quick drive from home, it's not that big of a deal for someone to pick you up in case of breakdown. :) I'd say you're being overly-cautious, but that's a good thing. I regularly do 300+ mile round-trips in one day that begin and end at my house with no prior preparations, or without packing anything said here, so you should be fine! Just remember to have fun and not worry too much...

Tire patch kits are all the same, but you can get this kit: from Wal-mart for less than that. I have a really old one that I pulled out of a wrecked car, but it looks the same. Slime makes good stuff, that kit will hold up. The inflaters are all the same too, just pick up the CO2 inflator that Slime makes when you get the patch kit. The patch is more to get you to a shop for a new tire, rather than to get you to your destination. I really don't recommend riding on a patched tire for any length of time.

What I usually pack when I go motorcycle camping (off the top of my head):

  • hammock tent -- Hennesey Expedition
  • sleeping bag
  • change of clothes per day (tshirt, jeans, underwear, socks)
  • shoes
  • riding jacket
  • helmet
  • bodywash
  • deodorant
  • toothbrush
  • small towel
  • screwdriver (phillips / flathead)
  • 2x adjustable wrenches
  • allen wrench
  • duct tape
  • tire patch kit
  • CO2 inflator
  • LED flashlight
  • food and water (instant noodles, crackers, kippers, trail mix, energy bars, etc... )
  • Camping stove
  • fuel
  • mess kit (small pot / skillet, bowl, mug, chop sticks)
  • knife
  • small first aid kit w/ insect repellent
  • phone
  • phone charger
  • camera
  • small tripod

    I generally ride until past dark, then just put up the tent at a public park and leave again at sunrise. No one will mess with you, and if they do, tell them where you're riding and where you're from (and that you did that on a scooter), and they'll usually not care and let you stay.

    If you're on facebook, look up GASS (greater atlanta scooter society) or the Terminal Scooter Club. Both groups occasionally go on longish (~200mi) rides in a group. A group ride would be a good way to get your feet wet without any worry of getting stuck, alone, in the middle of nowhere. :D
u/Tangent_ · 3 pointsr/cars

Short of something obvious like around new construction where nails and screws falling off truck bumpers will be more common it's pretty much just random chance. If it keeps happening it might be worth buying yourself a tire plug kit like this and an inflator so you can fix it yourself. In the mean time call around and see if you can find a local tire shop that patches tires for free.

u/AceofSpad3s · 3 pointsr/knives

Jesus Christ $250? Just get [This] ( and then choose a knife. Also I have never scene a 5 inch folder. Maybe you might be able to find a large opinel. I think they go up to that.

u/ToaSt667 · 3 pointsr/EDC

this thing is pretty cool.

u/moratnz · 3 pointsr/TwoXChromosomes

Might I suggest the ResQMe - it's the keyring version.

u/texas_aggie_2005 · 3 pointsr/houston

Or, buy a cheap, specialty tool that can bust side windows and cut seatbelts. Res-Q-Me. Highly reccomend.

u/zeezombies · 3 pointsr/HumansBeingBros

That's not in the trunk, it's on my keyring. Not the exact one, but something similar.

u/AverageJoeBruin · 3 pointsr/EDC

Resqme Tool. $10. It's pretty awesome. Tried it out on some glass windows and it worked perfectly. It also has a ball bearing on one side so you can jab at the broken glass to remove it from the frame.

u/wellwasherelf · 3 pointsr/TropicalWeather

Yeah, you don't need anything heavy to smash a car window. They're made of tempered glass, so all you need is a sharp object with a concentrated point that is harder than the glass (e.g. an icepick or punch tool). That's why you can shatter a car window with just a tiny smashed piece of ceramic from a spark plug ("ninja rocks").

Using something as a lever works too since it applies so much force into an extremely concentrated area, and it's probably also going to be near the edge of the glass, where tempered glass is weakest.

I highly suggest investing in one of the specialty tools though. They're super inexpensive and take up no room in your car. I keep one in my center console and one in my dashboard. They do make larger ones too if you're worried about a keychain-sized one getting lost.

u/Taliesen · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

One of these (or similar) should be standard equipment in all new cars. Clip it to the seatbelt hanger and it's always where it needs to be.

u/Nyxian · 3 pointsr/airsoft

Hi. As both someone who uses Froglube on firearms, and as someone who techs AEG gearboxes...

It won't be harmful, but really isn't ideal. Specifically, froglube CLP isn't good, far too thin. The paste - well, if you properly treat all of the metal with the heat treatment, it'll be okay, but I still think a proper gear lubricant is in order.

You have to realize that while they are both "guns" - an AEG is far more a gearbox than a gun. You need gearbox lubricant not gun lubricant.

I highly suggest for seals and the like - a solid silicone lubricant. Barrels and mags - a teflon lubricant with alcohol application, so it dries but still provides lubrication, without getting on bbs.

For the gearbox? Go with Super lube.

u/ender32708 · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

WD-40 is not a lubricant, I use mobil grease, but this would be just fine ( see link) or stop at a auto store and get a multi purpose grease.

Super Lube 21030 Translucent White Color 3 oz. Automotive Accessories

u/EngineeredMadness · 3 pointsr/Homebrewing

My gas toolbox:

Teflon Tape

Replacement gaskets for every fitting in service (tank-to-regulator, and all keg gaskets, beer nut / shank washers if doing faucets)

Extra tubing for gas and beverage

Extra barb-swivel nut fittings

Spray bottle with soapy water or starsan to check for leaks

Channel-lock wrench x 2 (many brass fittings are just threadded so you may need to hold one thing in place while threading or un-threading something else.

Nylon washers if using MFL/FFL connectors (I recommend this as opposed to barb).

Hose Clamps or Oketer Clamps and crimp tool

Faucet Wrench (if you're working with shanks - you do not want to wreck a new shank with a pair of pliers)

Extra picnic taps

Extra QDs

Keg Lube Generic Equivalent: It doesn't need to say Keg on it, it needs to be food grade. Do not mix silicone-based lubricant with silicone gaskets, it will kinda melt them. I have this stuff at the moment


u/PMMeAGiftCard · 3 pointsr/nintendo

I can tell you from experience these work great. I also put a little bit of Superlube Synthetic Grease in mine to slow down the wear and tear.

u/Cyekk · 3 pointsr/gamingsuggestions

You'll get more traction at /r/MechanicalKeyboards/

You should get a Switch Tester to see what kind you like best.

Also, you're going to be hard pressed finding a good quality mechanical keyboard under $100, unless it's on deep sale. Don't cheap out and buy some no-name brand. This is something you're going to use every day for multiple years.

u/CamelCadre · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

If you want to get a mechanical keyboard i would suggest getting one of these:

I bought a couple keyboards (cherry mxred, and cherry mxblue) before buying that tester and found that my favorite feel is clears). Now i want to buy another keyboard....

u/ReeceTheGeese · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

If you have the money, go for the leopold. I have a magifcforce, and the build quality is good for the price, but I wasn't very impressed with the otemu switches. They were so bad that I just decided to remove them all, and replace them with box navy switches. Before buying anything though, buy a switch tester. I recommend this one. This will save you a lot of headache.

u/johnc94 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Ah, I bought a thing on ebay that had 6 cherry switches in it red, blue, green, brown, black, and white. Whenever I was at a loading screen or watching a show I'd pick it up and play with the switches, after a week I settled on brown.

In case anybody wants it, this is similar to what I got

u/Deja-Intended · 3 pointsr/OpTicGaming

Why don't you just buy this and get switches that you like instead of trying to replicate someone else's setup?

Also consider going with any number of brands using CherryMX switches. Razer is not the be-all and end-all. You have several options at that price point for a tenkeyless keyboard without having to use a "game-ified" typeface on the keys themselves.

The following is a well-written article by a reputable website about Razer and their "award-winning, universally lauded, industry best" switches.

u/1point5volts · 3 pointsr/buildapc
u/PrimeRaziel · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Test them on store or buy an switch tester

u/baptistcreature · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Quite a few people seem to favor MX brown switches (light and tactile) for mixed use, but it's really a matter of personal preference. You might want to get a switch tester to try out a few different types before making a decision (something like this:

u/ShadyShroomz · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

would this be good for testing? I only have tried red and blue and I like blue better for typing. gaming no preference but as I said typing is more important to me.

u/Red_Inferno · 3 pointsr/tifu

Maybe you should have bought a Drop Stop. Saw it on shark tank.

u/oc412 · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

This a a copy reply to a post from yesterday with pretty much the same question. This should help. YouTube the "Garry Dean Wash method" and do it that way.
Look into towels from The rag Company the [Eagle Edgeless] ( , [platinum pluffle] ( and the [creature edgless] ( are my favorite. They are just better quality then CG towels and are perfect for using the "Garry Dean" wash method which is good for apartment dwellers.

EDIT: Also look into [WolfGang Uber] ( rinseless wash. Its more costlier but WELL WORTH it to me. I just got a gallon of it from their website. I use it for my business on some customers vehicles and they notice when I do. Its by far my favorite rinseless out there that I have used. I have tried numerous different ones. [ONRWW] ( is good, don't get me wrong but I've had it streak and [ONR] ( stains my wash media. I've never had a single issue with WG Uber and it smells like cherry candy. I feel like drinking the bottle every time I use it which makes it great to work with.

u/JoeyOhhh · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

My parents' neighbor has been watching as I borrow Mom and Dad's hose and he recently asked if I could take on his car and I was happy to oblige! Overall, the exterior was in okay shape - couple bugs, a few spots of tree sap and bird poo, as well as just a good amount of dirt and mud tucked in some spaces. I gave the car a two bucket wash, clay, Iron X treatment, Iron X, clay and topped it off with a sealant. Thanks for pointing out that I listed my procedure out of order, /u/Deadfable! Here's the deets:

Products Used:

u/TeslaWindsor · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing
u/memyselfandhai · 3 pointsr/GolfGTI

I love Larry's videos from AMMO NYC & DRIVE Clean and have always followed his recommendations for detailing/washing.

u/ultragib · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

It doesn't take much at all to scratch a car. I'll leave it to others more experienced in paint correction to address your scratches, but in the future, know that even in the city you have safe self-wash options. Enter Optimum No Rinse Wash (often abbreviated as ONR on these threads).

Get yourself two five gallon buckets at Home Depot. Buy ONR, some microfibers, and a grit guard or two. Google Optimum No Rinse Wash and watch some two bucket method videos. You can fill the buckets in your apartment and head out and clean the car in a parking spot. You will soon get over your neighbors looking at you like you're nuts cleaning the car without a hose in a lot, because you'll always have the cleanest car around.

Start with that and stick around here and you'll find a lot more tips from people in your same situation.

Optimum (NR2010Q) No Rinse Wash & Shine - 32 oz.

u/cf2121 · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing
  1. I'm guessing you mean the light duty, medium, and heavy duty? 99% of the time you all you need is a light clay bar. Nanoskin makes similar variations, while Meguiars makes a light and aggressive version. When you use medium or higher, you're pretty much going to leave marring behind that will need correction. The version you can find OTC is really going to be all you need.

  2. I prefer clay to Nanoskin. I keep the small sponge around just as a backup in case I run out of clay and forget to order some. It all comes down to preference. Nanoskin is 'superior' to clay because it lasts longer and you don't have to throw it out when you drop it. I say try the sponge out and see how you like it.

  3. Unless you get a paint thickness gauge, you can't be 100% sure.

  4. Bang for your buck? No way. Get ONR.
u/WaterishCube · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I totally get what you mean. For bird poop removal I use ONR diluted to 2oz to a gallon in a spray bottle. Or just do a regular wash and when the mf towel touches the poop I put it in the dirty towel bucket and grab a new one.

For claying I use ONR diluted the same as before and what ever clay I have on hand most of the time it is the meguiars you can buy at the auto store.

For regular soap I use Adam's car shampoo (the blue one) I love this stuff in a bucket or foamer it works amazing for both.

Interior I mostly use onr in what ever dilution I have the most of at that time.

For cleaning glass I use the method Larry for AmmoNYC uses. Invisible glass works wonders for me but if it does not work for you don't be afraid to try other products. fine tuning your process will be trial and error of new products.

If you don't have a bottle of ONR already I would pick one up I use it every time I detail vehicle. You can find it on amazon here

But the biggest tip I can give anyone that is starting out is to drink water during detailing.

Hope this helps.

u/V1VrV2 · 3 pointsr/flying

For washing the non-greasy parts, I use a diluted solution of Optimum No Rinse (aka ONR, link here) and it works well. I use a waffle-weave microfiber and a bucket of water along with a spray bottle of ONR.

For windows, microfiber cloth plus Plexus or Clear View acrylic cleaner. Agree with what's stated below about don't drop your microfiber.

u/orlheadlights · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Rinseless washing with ONR has almost cut my washing time in half, and the Nanoskin Wash Mitt has saved me tons of time claying.

For drying, I use something like a waffle weave towel and some spray wax (I use Optimum Spray Wax).

You could try something like ONRW&W which combines rinseless washing with wax, giving you 1 less step.

u/SirBurningBeard · 3 pointsr/Challenger

I am a fan of Optimum no rinse wash and use their tire shine and spray wax.

No rinse wash

u/MAC_Addy · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I have found that Optimum works really well. Also, the last coat works really, really well for me.

u/becoolbasf · 3 pointsr/teslamotors
  1. What I advise you to do the following:
    1. Get PPF (Paint Protection Film) full front (if you can afford it)
    2. After the PPF, get a ceramic coating done. there’s a lot of debate of it’s actually needed or effective but I’ve seen many many cases where either side can be “correct” in the sense you can’t go wrong diy vs. getting it done professionally. There are plenty of people here who have done it themselves but please refer to r/Autodetailing if you’re interested. I choose to get mine done professionally and I don’t regret it one bit. Helps to maintain the car very easy. Here’s a pic after getting ppf and coating done:
  2. I use two bucket method (LOT of tutorials on google and youtube) Here’s a list of every single thing related I purchased for doing my own car wash:
    1. ONR Solution
    2. Chemical Guys MIC_507_06 Professional Grade Premium Microfiber Towel, Gold (16 in. x 24 in.) (Pack of 6)
    3. 2 of Meguiar’s X2000 Water Magnet Microfiber Drying Towel, 1 Pack
    4. Relentless Drive Ultimate Car Wash Mitt - 2 Pack Extra Large Size - Premium Chenille Microfiber Wash Mitt - Wash Glove - Lint Free - Scratch Free
    5. Chemical Guys MIC_7071 Glass and Window Waffle Weave Towel, Red (24 in. x 16 in.)
    6. Grit Guard (2x)
    7. Solo 418 One-Hand Pressure Sprayer, 1-Liter, Ergonomic Grip for Gardening, Fertilizing, Cleaning & General Use Spraying
    8. Windshield Window Cleaner Tool, Unbreakable Extendable Long-Reach Handle, Unique Pivoting Triangular Head, 3 Washable Reusable Microfiber Bonnets, Car & Home Inside Interior Exterior Use - Lint Free
    9. Buy 2 5 gallons buckets at Home Depot/Lowe’s
  3. Tesla should do it for free but some people do end up paying $25-60 but usually free. Hope this helps!
u/slaab9k · 3 pointsr/n64

Go over your connections (including where the cartridge plugs in) with this:

Hosa D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz.

You’ll need it again and again in the future if you are in the process of learning electronics repair. Cleaning electrical connections with isopropyl alcohol is misguided and can accelerate problems recurring.

u/ThickAsABrickJT · 3 pointsr/audiorepair

Either the selector itself is dirty/broken (in which case, the Deoxit treatment should do the trick) or there is a problem with one channel of the phono stage's circuitry.

Try the contact cleaner first. If you can get ahold of an oscilloscope--or hell, a piezo earpiece and a quiet room--you can measure the output of the phono stage to track down where the signal from the bad channel is getting lost. I have a feeling it's either a dried-out capacitor or a failed transistor.

u/Eisenstein · 3 pointsr/vintageaudio

Well, if you can use the lab and it has a scope in it then you just scored big time.

As far as $100. I would get:

(amazon links for convenience, use any supplier you wish)

  • DMM (digital multimeter) - must have diode check, DC volts, AC volts, Ohms, and continuity. Extech EX330 ($50) or Equus 3320 ($20)

  • clip leads for the meter such as these - these are important because you will need to take values while the amp is on, and you don't want to be poking around a live amp

  • variable power/temp soldering iron - cheap one good one better one

  • 60/40 leaded solder - I like this kind

  • desolder braid

  • rosin flux

  • contact cleaner

  • (de-oxit d-5)[]

  • flush cutters

  • solder sucker

  • shrink tube of various diameters

  • 92%+ isopropyl alcohol

  • windex

  • q-tips

  • paper towels

  • needle nose pliers

  • nice set of phillips head screwdrivers

  • standard screwdriver

  • miner's headlamp

  • digital camera for taking many many pictures before and during disassembly

  • printer for printing service manuals

  • heat gunor hair dryer

  • canned air

    EDIT: Light bulb socket, 100W + 60W real light bulbs (not the hippy engery saving kind), electrical outlet - these are for making a dim bulb tester.

    All I can think of right now.
u/Cheeto333 · 3 pointsr/Guitar

This stuff works very well. I think Radio Shack sells it.

u/fizzicist · 3 pointsr/RedditForGrownups

Also, I had trouble with the Roomba not making a good connection the charging base. It would keep backing up and trying again. Cleaned it with this that I had laying around and it charges on the first attempt

Hosa D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz.

Deoxidizer spray is also good for those volume knobs that make the speakers crackle when you turn them. Potentiometer contacts inside are just oxidized.

u/estrago1 · 3 pointsr/Guitar

You'll want contact cleaner. Deoxit is great for cleaning potentiometers, as well as other electronic connections. Look at the picture of the pot that seb_m posted; see that little notch on the bottom, right-hand of the picture? That's where you'll want to spray the contact cleaner. Then you just turn the pot back and forth a few times to work it around.

u/burkholderia · 3 pointsr/Bass

A few that have come up a couple times

Radio interference

Radio in amps is a common problem, especially if you're near a transmitter.
First thing you want to do is rule out pieces of gear that aren't contributing to the problem. If the instrument isn't shielded you can have issues there, try another bass if possible.

If the shielding on your instrument cable is breaking down this can cause problem, try another cable if you can.

If you are using any pedals start with none and add them in one at a time until you get the issue to reoccur. If the problem is a pedal, you can solder a treble bleed cap across the hot/ground connections on the output jack of that pedal, use something like a 5 or 10pf and it should only filter off the very very high frequencies (like radio frequency).
If the issue is before the amp you can try a ferrite bead on the end of the cable before the amp. I tried this once and it didn't work for me, but it's a common recommendation.

If it is definitely the amp there are a few things you can try. The small cap trick I mentioned above for the pedal can work if you do it across the terminals of the input jack on the amp. If the amp is a tube amp make sure that there is a tube shield on the first gain stage. Check to see if there are grid stopper resistors on the first gain stage, you can change the value of the resistors to lower the frequency cutoff.

If there is no grid stopper and you want to add one, you can calculate what resistor to use. R = 1/ (2 PI f C). C is the input capacitance of the tube in farads, f is the low pass cutoff frequency in Hz, PI is constant 3.14, R is in ohms. The input capacitance C = CGK + (CGA A) where A is the voltage gain of the stage, CGK is the grid-to-cathode capacitance and CGA is the grid-to-anode capacitance of the tube. The latter two values are found in the tube's data sheet. For a 12AX7 with a gain stage designed with A to be 60, C is about 103 pF. Let's say you want to cut off everything above 20 kHz. R = 1/(2 3.14 20000 103 10^-12), which is about 80 K ohms.

Some amps just have an issue with internal wiring layout, you can try to move wires around to limit noise, but it can be tricky and dangerous because you have to have the amp open and on.

Don't poke around inside an amp unless you know what you're doing. Some of these things will likely need to be done by a tech.


The easiest thing to try is moving your setup to another room or another position in the room to rule out sympathetic vibrations. If you've ruled out room issues check all the mounting screws on the speaker/cabinet and your amp. Check to see if the vibration is frequency specific (does it happen at octaves of different notes) or if it only occurs at low frequencies. With a frequency specific vibration you issue is something resonating and once you can find the problematic component you can try to alleviate that issue. If the rattle is only caused by high levels of low frequency and not specific to a frequency then it could simply be a loose panel or bad seal around the speaker or jack plates. Check the speaker mounting seal, it should be tight against the baffle. If needed you can add some gasket tape to ensure a good seal.


There is a fantastic primer on tubes available on the Talkbass Portaflex Wiki that covers all of this in far greater detail, but for some basic troubleshooting there are a few things that are worth mentioning.

With any tube amp, the tubes are the primary suspect for weird noises and other issues. They're more likely to have issues than other passive and mechanical components. It's always a good idea to keep a known good spare of each type of preamp tube in your amp available for troubleshooting purposes. Preamp tubes in general can last many years to decades in most amps, but a good place to start if you suspect that you have tube issues is replacing the first gain stage (V1) of the amplifier. From there try swapping tubes one at a time until you reach the power tubes. If this has not solved your problem there may be an issue with a mechanical component (pots, jacks, switches) or a failing passive component (caps, resistors, etc). If the amp blows a fuse, especially a high voltage (often labeled HT) fuse, the usual suspect is failing power tubes. Swapping the tubes can be a good first step, but fuses blow for a reason and the amp should be checked over by a tech. If a power tube fails suddenly it can damage the screen, plate, or cathode resistors and simply replacing the tube with a new tube would put that new tube at risk for similar failure. In general, if the amp has a tube power section and has started to sound bland or has issues with the power dropping off you should check and possibly replace the power tubes.

Scratchy/static noise

A simple starting point for any kind of static noise is to check for loose jacks or bad cables. Frequently this kind of noise is due to bad or dirty contacts. A product like Deoxit in combination with a small brush or swab is good for cleaning contacts and connections. You can go simple and spray some onto a jack and use a 1/4" plug to run across the contact surface a few times, but a more thorough cleaning is better. With scratchy pots you can spray deoxit/contact cleaner into the mechanism and move the pot a few (hundred) times to clean the contact surface. If this fails to address the issue you may need to replace the pot. If the amp has an effects loop or speaker output that is unused these contacts can get dirty from time to time and a cleaning may be beneficial.

u/artist508 · 3 pointsr/airsoft

I've brought back a few under performing motors by spraying them out with Deoxit.

u/randomracc · 3 pointsr/walkman

Use Deoxit spray on the volume control, and wiggle the volume up and down

here's a link for some if you don't have any

u/tmwrnj · 3 pointsr/Guitar

Pickups almost never fail - they're just a big coil of wire, there's not really anything to go wrong with them.

The first thing to check is obvious - is your volume or tone control rolled off? It sounds silly, but it's easy to overlook if you rarely use the neck pickup.

The next most likely problem is the pickup selector switch. Les Pauls use an open type of selector switch that's prone to corrosion, especially if it's infrequently used. Plug your guitar in, strum the open strings, then click the pickup selector switch up and down and listen to your amp. If you can hear crackling or intermittent sound, it's probably the selector switch.

Most switch problems can be fixed with a squirt of DeoxIT, but the switch may need to be replaced. If you can solder, it's a ten minute job and a six dollar part. If you can't solder, this is a good opportunity to learn - you can buy a basic soldering iron kit for less than $20.

Failing that, take it to a competent luthier. Guitar electronics aren't particularly complicated, so it should be a cheap and quick fix.

u/UboaNoticedYou · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Hey! I've taken apart and fixed more joycons than I can count at this point.

Under the buttons are a rubber contact pad, followed by the contacts themselves. There are three potential issues I can think of right off the bat.

  1. The contact for the A button is damaged or scratched. This is worse case scenario and not very likely unless you got sand into your joycon somehow.

  2. Dirt and gunk on the inside has gotten under the contact pad. This is the most likely possibility in my opinion.

  3. Nintendo put your joycon back together wrong, and the contact pad has shifted position over time. Not super likely but definitely a possibility, if you don't like the contact pad up correctly it could interfere with the function of the controller.

    Regardless of the issue, you're gonna need to open it up and clean it. The toolkit I use it the iFixit Mako toolkit. It'll have all the bits and tools you need save for some needlenose tweezers, and while some other brands like Wera will have higher quality bits, the iFixit kit is more than enough for your needs, especially if this is the only thing you plan on repairing.

    Opening up a joycon can be quite challenging, and to get to the buttons requires taking the entire thing apart due to how everything is sandwiched together. As daunting as it may be, it IS possible as long as you have the right tools, a little confidence, and a lot of patience. JerryRigEverything has an excellent tutorial on how to take apart the Switch, but you only need to worry about the section regarding the right joycon.

    While you're buying everything you need (the toolkit, some tweezers [preferably angled], your favorite brand of ice cream to celebrate after), I also recommend getting [a can of Hosa contact cleaner.] ( This stuff is like magic. Spray a tiny bit on the contact for the A button and let it dry, and it'll probably work good as new! Although you don't NEED to get this, it can help with old or damaged electronics, and if you plan on fixing any other controllers I definitely recommend it.

    Now, if you're buying literally everything I recommend then it's gonna come out to >$40 most likely, which is about the price for a single joycon. You can save some money by forgoing the contact cleaner and just buying the triwing and phillips head bits online yourself, but these are all tools that will help you in the future. Think of it as an investment. If you ever have a joycon acting up again, you'll be able to fix it yourself and not have to worry about a warranty. Plus, you can fix your friends' controllers like I have many times! Then again, I'm weird. I enjoy modding joycons. I'm still proud of my most recent mod I made as a birthday gift.

    Whatever you decide, best of luck! I'd love to hear how the repair goes if you decide to go through with it!
u/TheParallax · 3 pointsr/Guitar

Hosa D5S-6 Deoxit Contact Cleaner 5% Spray

I just bought a can of this myself for my amp

u/Goguma- · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I believe that board uses costar stabs, which are notorious for having really loud spacebar rattle (actually any kind of modifier key that is longer than 2u). You can try taking off the spacebar to confirm if it is.

If it is costar, then try taking the wire out and using dielectric grease to dampen the rattle. Just dip the ends of the wire into the grease.

u/JaffC · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

You can get rid of some of the pinging with some dielectric grease like this

u/Teedacus · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I'm no expert, but I think some people use dielectric grease, like this

u/JadsPure2 · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube

This makes a really good super thick lube for stabs, you'll just wanna brush the wire, stem, the part the stem rubs against and the part the wire clips into. Clip the stabilizers while you're at it too and only use authentic cherry pcb mount stabs. Don't use dielectric grease for anything other than stabs, super thick

u/merc08 · 3 pointsr/Roadcam

Glove box, if you are tall enough to reliably reach it.

There are also various retention mounts you can get and a fix somewhere within reach. This window breaker has one included, but there are also generic types available elsewhere.

u/kpthunder · 3 pointsr/pics

And this is why I keep a life hammer in my car. I was unfortunate enough to have to use it one time. Story from this comment:

>Back in November I drove into water and the car started sinking. Doors wouldn't open due to pressure. I had a lifehammer in the car and I know that is the only reason I was able to get out.

> The Mythbusters originally said that you just have to wait for the cabin to fill with water. After revisiting and determining that in real world uncontrolled conditions that it just isn't likely you'll have that long, I decided to buy the lifehammer.

> Best $15 I've ever spent.

Edit: It appears to be my cake day. Yum.

u/jinxed_07 · 3 pointsr/Showerthoughts

I think the adrenaline rush of having your car slowly being incased by water should provide more then enough strength to rip out the window shattering tool. In any case, this comes with a mounting bracket so it can be securely affixed to any part of the car, so your argument is invalid. There is no reason for the tool to be in the glove box in the first place.

u/poorsoi · 3 pointsr/LifeProTips

The specialized tools I've seen don't go loosely into the glove box or console; they're in a bracket that you mount somewhere accessible.

*edited to add an example: LifeHammer

u/Zediac · 3 pointsr/AskReddit
  • Car emergency tool

  • Small first aid kit

  • Emergency kit with blanket, spare clothes (warm ones if you live in cold climates), bottles of water, basic food, flashlight, reflectors/flares, etc

  • Jumper cables

  • Tire iron

  • Spare auto fluids

  • Good multitool

  • Slip on ice cleats if you live in cold climates.

  • Kitty litter for snow/ice
u/MrBlankenshipESQ · 3 pointsr/modeltrains

> Hey thanks for answering!

No prob!

> I had no idea DC trains shouldn’t run on DCC, TIL!

Yah. The DCC signal more resembles AC than it does DC. Square wave, not sine wave, and the frequency weeble-wobbles all over the place to transmit the data. It's a bit of an oddball signal, really, because it's trying to pass data along and pass actual power along at the same time. There's also a rather surprising amount of current on tap, moreso than the typical DC pack will provide. My command station puts out ~1.3 amps but I can fit boosters to it that go up to 8 amps each.

> How should I clean the tracks?

Ask a thousand modellers, get a thousand responses. I've had excellent luck rescuing filthy tracks with a lint-free shop cloth and this stuff. I'll spray it onto the cloth, then wipe that along the railheads. Dose a snazzy job of gettin' the schmoo off and dries super quick so no slippery residue is left behind. You might also want to look into a bright boy, given how long your tracks have sat, because while the cleaner I use is great at getting dirt off the railheads it won't really touch actual corrosion. For that, an abrasive will be necessary.

> And what exactly are fish plates? It is mostly peco track.

Fishplates...rail joiners...fiddly little bastards that stab the fuck out of your fingers as you work on your track...they have many names, but they're all pretty cheap and it won't hurt to replace them. Make sure you grab a pair that have wires attached if you already have a pair like that, those'll need replacing too for the same reason.

u/SergeantTibbs · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

Get a can [of this](CRC 5103 Quick Dry Electronic Cleaner - 11 Wt Oz.

Or get the WD-40 Contact Cleaner. Either will work.

Take good pictures of all sides of the stun gun. You’ll use these to reassemble it.

Remove the batteries. Hold down the stun button for a full minute.

Remove all the screws from the stun gun and gently open it up. Don’t worry, it’s not powered, anything in here is safe to touch.

If you can see both sides of the green circuit board, spray them down with the contact cleaner.

If you can’t see both sides of the circuit board, take more detailed photos of the inside of the stun gun. Note where the screws are, and especially where wires go through the case. Remove any screws from the board and set them aside in a different place from the other screws. You don’t want to mix them up.

Pull the board up just enough to see both sides and spray it down. Be generous with the cleaner. Let it drip off the board onto some paper towels. The oil will be carried off along with the cleaner.

Air out the room when you’re doing this, or do it in a garage.

Put the board back in place and wait at least a few hours for the cleaner to evaporate.

Reassemble the board and case, putting each screw back in the reverse order you took them out. Pay close attention to any wires, and make sure they’re going through the case the same way.

Put batteries in and test. If it sparks you’re good.

And then throw it away and get quality pepper spray you can carry and use easily. A stun gun only irritates and it only works as long as you’re there actually pressing the button. What you want is something you can quickly use, throw away, and then run. The pepper spray will take a moment to really kick in, but it’ll pain and blind your attacker for a while, and make it hard for them to chase you.

u/WardenWolf · 3 pointsr/guns

Breakfree CLP should dissolve that crap. Then spray it with CRC QD Electronic Cleaner to degrease it. You can get it at an automotive store for cheap. It looks like this:

u/TheDancy · 3 pointsr/GuitarAmps

Contact cleaner, $4.77 @ Amazon, but you can buy at probably any store like Lowe's.

CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner -11 Wt Oz

And the place on the pot to spray it (about halfway down on the page)

u/Scorp63 · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Here is a link to the Amazon one I got.

I know there's tutorials and videos and all that, but I went with this for the cheapest and simplest possible solution and it definitely helped my drift problems with my left joycon which was awful. Just a tiny tiiiiny spritz around a couple sides of the joystick and it was good to go after putting down/unhooked to dry for a little bit.

u/darealmvp1 · 3 pointsr/Tools

Jesus, NO!. The guy said electrical parts cleaner not alcohol. Buy this crap, take your drill apart and douse all the oil off with this shit.

u/gunslinger_006 · 3 pointsr/Harley

This, SAE (battery tender plug) to USB charger:

$10 and may just save your ass if your phone dies out on the road and you need help, or to look up directions, etc....

u/Karcinagin · 3 pointsr/Harley

Appears to be a good design. The only spot I could see water being a problem would be the the 2-pole connection, but you do not have to use that or could hide the connection in the battery compartment. But for $40 I would attempt to make this myself. Just make sure you have an inline fuse. Or look at this and it even has USB. If you are looking for just USB there is this.

u/phil128 · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Items used:

Battery SAE Connector $6
SEA connection that has 4 plugs. If I need to hook up a battery charger or air compressor it's nice.

USB Power $10 I used one for the phone itself and one for the hub, however you only need one. I just didnt not want the amplifier taking power away from charging the phone. Redundancy is nice too. Extra USB ports for whatever.

USB Hub $7 For all the gadgets.

USB Phone Power Cable $5 This is the real weak point in the setup. I've gone through a lot of these. is good for really cheap cords.

[Phone Audio output(between phone and amplifier)] (
$7 Quality cord here. Purchased for the right angle plug.

[Amplifier]( $28
Amplifier output connection: $30 After not being able to hear very well with no amplifier, this greatly improved the experience.

Helmet coil cord $5 With this cord you never know the cord is there until you get off the bike and it will break away.

Helmet speakers: $10 I found a great deal on ebay for some "hoodie" speakers and I epoxied them in the helmet. You could always use this setup with earbuds too, but I was never fond of getting them pulled out while riding.

Phone mount $35 I would trust it will an $800 phone.

Total Cost w/ Phone Mount: $ 115

u/TheStuffle · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Seems pretty normal to me, I have one on my bike. It shares the hookups for my battery tender but it's the same idea.

I don't see why it would drain the battery unless you have a phone plugged into it.

u/vinnard · 3 pointsr/motocamping

I've had this for over a year and it works great

If you buy a battery tender it comes with one of these that the usb thingy hooks right up to. I just have it hanging out the side of my bike and I can easily tuck it up under the fairings.

u/afeagle1021 · 3 pointsr/Triumph
u/MorleyDotes · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Battery Tender makes a quick disconnect plug. I have one on my bike that I use to connect the tender. You screw it onto the battery terminals. I also have a USB plug that I can connect to it and charge phones, cameras, whatever.

u/Milge · 3 pointsr/Harley

If your heart isn't set on the 2 gallon tank, try a 3 gallon. It would look good and fill in that gap between the seat and tank. I do 120+ miles on my 48 weekly.

Since everyone is mentioning phones, I use one of these when my phone dies. It will let you charge your phone off of the battery tender connector.

u/Troutsicle · 3 pointsr/Portland

I use the free version of an app called Torque.

You have to pair your phone to the dongle just like you would a pair of headphones.

u/carter31119311 · 3 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Panlong Bluetooth OBD2 OBDII Car Diagnostic Scanner Check Engine Light for Android - Compatible with Torque Pro

I just want to mention, I do strongly recommend investing in a real one if you want an odb scanner. I keep this one with me because it's small, and cheap, and like i said, it's usually right, but not always completely correct. Is it worth $10-$11 dollars? Sure! Do I ALWAYS trust it? Not always.

u/mxdcm · 3 pointsr/e39

Clean looking model :) congratulations! Love that you have sunroof / moonroof (different countries - different names - same stuff).

Waiting for the interior pictures.

Here are few link where you can find info and parts in case if you will need; searching by VIN number, only the last 7 characters, CE7.... and for parts number for equipment details, with which the car came from factory

Others; using apps

Torque pro or Torque lite - free version to use together with an OBD-II bluetooth scanner for quick diagnostics, are not expensive and can give you some quick info.

Another good app which I tried, a little bit more expensive, is Carly for BMW they have a free lite version as well Carly for BMW Lite only that you will need to have a smartphone which knows USB-OTG and a cable from them (from carly for bmw) adapter search which can be 30€ carly for bmw website

I tried them both, torque and carly, and I would say that they are good enough, can give you informations, faults (errors code) and you can search by error code number to have an idea what can be the issue; as well can clear faults.

Carly for bmw knows coding as a plus, you can configure your car to do other few things, such as automatically locking the doors when going over a certain speed, follow me home lights on time for a certain time, keeping pressed locking button from the key fob to fold the mirrors (+ windows to go up), keeping pressed unlocking button from the key fob for the mirrors to go down; plus other few stuff (can't remember). For a car from the years 2000s is having few nice features.

Take a look at youtube video 5 Series - E39 - Video Handbook (40mins video) and you can learn about them.

You will have to prepare for the future, in case if they will fail, about kit repairs.

In US you have German auto solutions with DIY instructions, tools, kits; very useful stuff.

Since recently I had issues with this hose 11531705223 Radiator Hose which I had it replaced and just blew (snapped) after 1 year when I was going up the mountain, they are know for failing and can leave you stranded; give it an eye inspection.

What else can I continue recommending you... uhm...

Take care of it and again, congratulations :)


u/sumthingcool · 3 pointsr/leaf

This is the ODB2 BT I got, works great:

Take a look at this for the L2 charging:

It is super easy to convert your existing L1 "charger" (it's not really a charger) to be both L2 and L1 capable, then you just need a 240v outlet (which is ~$100-$200 for an electrician to install, easy to DIY as well)

I have yet to do any public charging, but just signed up for a ChargePoint account, thanks to the account should work at ChargePoint, Blink, and EVgo station which is 90%+ of public stations. Maybe someone else can comment how well it works and if it's still a good idea to sign up for multiple provider accounts.

I also really like the Leaf Manager app:

Way faster and more useful than the Nissan provided app.

u/ScubaSteve7886 · 3 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

This one connects to your phone via Bluetooth. There's any number of free apps available to read any trouble codes. Torque is a good app to use with this scanner.

u/BananaDoingIt · 3 pointsr/leaf

This one works fine for me:
Panlong Bluetooth OBD2 Car...

u/Honeybee0711 · 3 pointsr/prius

I bought this one (Amazon link):

But the app also has an article talking about the scanners they recommend with the app, this being one of them.

u/OtherwiseASandwich · 3 pointsr/prius

I use a Panlong one ordered from Amazon with no problems. It was specifically one of the ones recommended to use for the Dr. Prius app, and it works with Hybrid Assistant and other apps without issue either.

It works fine in both my 2004 and 2012.

u/FesteringNeonDistrac · 3 pointsr/Cartalk

I don't have this onebut it seems to have good reviews.

Google play store has the torque pro app.

u/snathanb · 3 pointsr/financialindependence

>While they aren't free, you can buy OBD readers for as low as $25.

They've come down quite a bit, because many now just relay the data via bluetooth to read on your smartphone/tablet. I diagnosed an issue with mine with this $10 Model and a free app.

u/gamebrigada · 3 pointsr/cars

No worries.


You need to start with figuring out why they want you to replace your entire exhaust system. Is it throwing a code? Is it rusted to pieces?


Your car is fitted with 2 Cats, 3 O2 sensors, a resonator and a muffler. The absolute most expensive component will be the first cat, as it is part of the Exhaust Manifold. The cheapest one I could find from a half-reputable source is here at 350$. The rest of the system is pretty much bog standard and can be done by ANY exhaust shop without official parts. They probably also want you to replace the O2 sensors. These are generally expensive items but you are pretty lucky. You should have 3 of them. Upstream, Center and downstream.


If you absolutely have to replace the whole system, do some research for reputable exhaust shops. Just google it and look at reviews. Talk to a shop of your choosing and ask them if you can provide the Exhaust manifold and sensors, and if they would be willing to do the rest. Since after the exhaust manifold, its a bone simple exhaust, a shop with a good welder will be able to throw together an exhaust for you from basic components in less than a day and much cheaper than buying all the pieces separately. Some shops will want to charge you more than 200$ for the second cat. Give them the finger and buy the secondary from RockAuto. At that point its just some pipe bending, a resonator and a muffler. I would be surprised if they want more than 300$. if you include both cats. That puts you at 470$ for the 2 cats, 75$ for all sensor and 300-400$ for the rest. That puts you under 1k$ for the whole system.


The more likely scenario, is that they are just pissed off at a code your car is throwing (Your check engine light should be on in this case), I would start with buying a cheap OBD reader, or going to an OReilly's/AutoZone to get your ECU read and write down the code.

Here's one that will work with an Android Phone.

Here's one that will work with an iPhone.

Once you get the exact code the ECU is throwing, it'll tell you which sensor is unhappy.

Sensor 1: Either bad sensor or engine running poorly.

Sensor 2: Either bad sensor or the cat is not heating up properly.

Sensor 3: Either bad sensor or the cat is not burning up remaining fuel correctly.

From there you should be able to troubleshoot and fix the problem. Since sensors are 25$, I would start with those.


One last thing, did they shove something in your exhaust during the check? Ford's emission systems are ridiculously lenient, and often will not trigger sensor faults even if the cat is in shreds and missing most of its honeycomb. In that case, change your cats and forget about the rest of the system.


u/dbone- · 3 pointsr/vancouver

Just buy one. They are cheap, and useful. Amazon

Goes well with the Torque app

u/DonnieJTrump · 3 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

On your smartphone, you can download an app called Torque Pro. It's $5 (at least it was when I bought it) then buy one of these that "talks" with your ECU. There should be a sensor it can read the transmission temps.

u/flindaman · 3 pointsr/AndroidQuestions

You should look into Bluetooth OBD2 sensors. You'll get the most accurate speed readout plus car info

Here is an example of one.

u/tokyohoon · 2 pointsr/Harley

You sure can!

Just remember to disconnect it when not in use - even with no device attached, they draw a small amount of current.

u/yasuro · 2 pointsr/Harley

2 things come to mind.

  1. Roadside assistance that covers motorcycles.

  2. Battery Tender 081-0158 Black Quick Disconnect Plug with USB Charger
u/BearLindsay · 2 pointsr/Harley

K) I also need a phone mount and how the F do you get a charger or "cigarette lighter" to keep the phone charged for the Waze.

Battery Tender 12 Volt Junior Automatic Battery Charger

Battery Tender 081-0158 Quick Disconnect Plug with USB Charger

That gives you a charger and a battery tender.

I have this mounted to the dash extender on my Dyna:
It's been rock solid for years (the tank is higher than the phone so wind doesn't catch it) and it's not mounted to the handlebars where it can distract me or vibrate loose. My post history has pictures but I've never seen a Sportster with a tank mounted dash so you'd have to stick it on the paint.

And this in the windshield of my truck too:

For etiquette, I keep just about everything to a quick wave or beep-beep at most. If I happen to see some others, I usually just fall in line with them as far as our paths are the same. I ride in the back of the group and keep about the same amount of space the rest of the group has. If they ride side to side, I get as close as I feel comfortable (and that isn't side by side lol). If they're staggered, I stay staggered too. Stop lights are different. Pull right up next to them and give them a quick head nod or maybe a compliment lol

u/peanutbuttersmack · 2 pointsr/Ducati
u/ztherion · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

To hold the phone, get a RAM mount.

To charge the phone, you need this adapter and an SAE cable running from your battery (The cable with the round terminals in this kit).

I've seen some touring bikes with cup holders but a Camelbak/water bladder would probably be easier to use while riding.

u/jhole · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

Wow, I hadn't considered using the bike to charge my phone. Just found that there's a usb adapter that connects directly to the Battery Tender leads.

u/konsol · 2 pointsr/motorcycles


Battery Tender 081-0069-6 Ring Terminal Harness with Black Fused 2-Pin Quick Disconnect Plug

Then connect:

Battery Tender 081-0158 Black Quick Disconnect Plug with USB Charger

Then you just connect and route a standard USB to mini USB.

u/Iemaj · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

You can chuck this on the wiring and then a USB to mini USB for your phone. Think this is what you want

u/solitudechirs · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

Get something that has a cover for the plug when you're not using it. Like this or this. Also, let me know if you figure out a way to get actual USB-C charging speeds.

u/n053b133d · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

My symptoms were very similar, they seem to quit working intermittently, which is annoying because sometimes you'll get a random misfire code rather than misfire on cylinder #x. As for the scantool, these are cheap and handy.

u/tackleberry61 · 2 pointsr/CFBOffTopic

Panlong Bluetooth OBD2 OBDII Car Diagnostic Scanner Check Engine Light for Android - Compatible with Torque Pro

And torque pro app can clear a check engine light. If the alarm comes back it can tell you exactly what's wrong too.

u/another_cube · 2 pointsr/Miata

PSA: You can buy one of these:

And see for yourself what the code is for.

u/zakats · 2 pointsr/Sprint

>not sell to yourself but to sell to others

I hear ya, but I think I covered this angle in my OP.

> diagnostic reports, access to certified mechanics, and AAA assistance

I've got a lot more experience as a mechanic than as a cellular salesman, what you just said there is the sort of horseshit sales pitch that's as shallow as 'pay us extra, cuz money' that corporate is always trying to push. I don't blame you, and I feel a little bad for telling you this because disabusing you of the nonsense that they've fed you will make your job harder, but there's nearly 0 real utility to it that can't be done with the phone people are already paying for.. which is why carriers love to sell them, it's high margin value added frivolousness.

This is a better diagnostic tool than any connected hokum being sold by carriers and it's ~$10. With a free or ~$5 app, there's a lot of information and help at your fingertips that can be read or shared.

>You may not want a tablet with a data plan, but a single mom without WiFi may want to give her kids one, or a college kid who needs something to take notes or draw on the go, small time YouTuber, etc.

Like I said, I don't represent everyone, but a lot of that doesn't resemble what you find in many areas. YMMV, but it can be a tall order and I don't feel like OP is lying to us.

u/Dorkamundo · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

In the interim, if you are so inclined, you could buy a cheaper OBDII sensor with an app on your phone that will allow you to monitor the temps.

One like this:

Though that is for android phones, I know Iphones are a little more picky.

It connects via bluetooth and shows you all the measurements by your ECM, it also reads and clears check engine codes.

u/Biscuitsandgravy101 · 2 pointsr/Autocross

TrackAddict app and this OBD2 bluetooth transmitter is what I have used. I don't mount the phone to get accelerometer data. I don't have external GPS either but TrackAddict recommends this. 1 hz internal phone GPS is kind of crap. I'm going to get a Garmin Virb Ultra 30 which does video, 10hz GPS, has accelerometers, and can connect to OBD2.

u/Myfeelingsarehurt · 2 pointsr/prius

Something like this:
Panlong Bluetooth OBD2 OBDII Car Diagnostic Scanner Check Engine Light for Android - Compatible with Torque Pro

It plugs into the diagnostic port in your car and relays the info to the app in your phone:)

u/tsaurini · 2 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

Get this

Then learn what the codes are with Torque

Also allows you to clear most check engine lights for annoying things.

u/johnson56 · 2 pointsr/FordDiesels

Here's the one I recently bought to replace my old one.

u/charles_dietz · 2 pointsr/Jaguar

I use an inexpensive bluetooth unit paired w Torque PRO app for a whopping combined cost of sub $20.

u/theservman · 2 pointsr/Subaru_Crosstrek

I have a Bluetooth ODB2 dongle that connects to an app on my phone (Torque). I think I spent a total of about C$30 for everything... I can read and clear fault codes, as well as realtime monitoring and logging of numerous data points.

Something like this:

u/Tiger955i · 2 pointsr/FiestaST

This is the reader I bought, but pretty much any OBD2 bluetooth reader should work:

There is some delay, but nothing more than you'd see on Torque alone. I wouldn't use this as a standalone boost gauge, but for certain metrics (coolant, voltage, rpm) that you want to monitor for a "safe" range this works well.

u/fangorn0 · 2 pointsr/nissanfrontier

You can get a bluetooth-enabled OBD II scanner on Amazon, like this one, and then use a smartphone app like Torque Pro (Android) or OBD Fusion (iOS) to gain access to all sorts of information that the computer has but isn't displayed.

I use Torque Pro to display a digital speed gauge, digital fuel gauge, distance to empty, and miles per gallon.

u/Asterios390528 · 2 pointsr/hondafit

I'd recommend getting an ODB such as ( Only $20, plug it in, pair with your phone, and get all kinda of diagnostic info.

Part of what they are charing you for is exactly this service. They have a fancier one that can get more info, but if you get your numbers and post them on something like r/caradvice you might be able to get a good answer.

u/mokujin · 2 pointsr/Wrangler

Bluetooth Amazon ones work great! And you can do other things like HUD stuff with them too. Also if you get an error code you can search it immediately.

*This is one for Android but they have them for everything. And it is what I have.

u/BeerSlayingBeaver · 2 pointsr/halifax
u/Ordinate1 · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

If it's just for one vehicle, occasionally, go to the parts store.

If you are having regular issues, then I would get one of these:

I use it with the Torque app on my phone.

u/dsmaxwell · 2 pointsr/Cartalk Well, for $12 you can fix that. In order to diagnose a modern vehicle this is a necessity.

You can also visit an auto parts store and they will check for you free of charge.

u/BecauseSteve · 2 pointsr/FiestaST

I am using this one now link

no problems with it so far. I've had it plugged in for over a month now.

This is the one that gave me problems link

u/computeroperator · 2 pointsr/Ruckus

I'm not sure about the mod but I've heard that these little batteries don't like sitting for a few weeks/months. I'd swap it out with a new one and then put it on a battery tender if you are going to not ride it for an extended period of time.

u/Ruleryak · 2 pointsr/BurningMan

It's not going to be the most efficient setup, but it can work. Basically, the biggest loss will be charging the batteries. Think of it like this - the generator is a gas engine spinning a motor that generates dc power. That power is converted to house current (ac) in order to let you plug in to the generator. A battery charger then converts that back to dc and charges the battery - so a portion of the power is lost in both conversions. If the goal is just charging batteries, a motor and an alternator generally cover that purpose better than a full generator.

All that said - your 800w genny, plus a trickle charger, plus a battery, plus an inverter will work out for your as well. The trickle charger works with whatever power the generator has available to charge the battery, and when you're using the power at night from the battery you'll need an inverter to run lights/gear off of the battery.

You'll probably want to charge the bikes directly from the generator too. If they use a 12v battery then you can charge it with the same setup. Charging one battery at a time, and needing several hours to charge each means you'll need to run the generator quite a bit during the day. Bring extra oil, make sure you know how much gas it consumes while running, and be safe with it. Make sure oil/gas don't get on the playa!

I would highly recommend getting something with higher wattage. 800 running is very low. I'd also recommend getting 12v lighting/gear so that an inverter is not necessary. Running 12v lights directly from the battery at night will be much more efficient than using an inverter, because you eliminate the conversion process. The inverter is the most likely piece to malfunction out there due to heat or dust so not needing one at all definitely is preferable.

u/hawksfan82 · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

Take a good long highway cruise to burn off moisture build up in oils.

Pro Tip: a battery maintainer is better for your vehicle (especially the engine) than starting and idling to charge the battery.

u/eightdrunkengods · 2 pointsr/Ducati

If you have a standard/stock battery, the standard Battery Tender will do. Just get the $30-ish dollar name brand one. You have a Panigale. "cheaper" is not in your vocabulary anymore. :)

If you have some kind of ultralight Lithium battery, you might need something different.

u/-jonasty- · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

they're called 'battery tenders'. Amazon Link

u/Paul_Swanson · 2 pointsr/Fairbanks

> Also hook up a trickle charger to your battery (these are much better than battery blankets, and not that expensive).

Second that. I want to get this for my wife's car:

u/KlueBat · 2 pointsr/cars

I think that /u/rld14 pretty much covered it. But there are a few things I would add. Some of these may not apply to you, but this thread could be useful to others.

  • Put the battery on a Battery Tender. You can do this in the storage unit if there is a power outlet (unlikely), or you can take the battery home and hook it up there.

  • Add a fuel conditioner like STA-BIL to prevent the ethanol in the fuel from absorbing water. This should be done in addition to filling up the tank completely.

  • If you don't know what kind of washer fluid was used, make sure to drain the washer tank. The previous owner may have used a summer blend that is not freeze resistant.

  • Check the coolant/anti-freeze with a coolant tester If your coolant is old or too dilute it could freeze in the block during storage. That would be a nasty surprise come spring!
u/agent_of_entropy · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice
u/mojank · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Well the cheapest option is just to drive the car, like I said before. You can buy a charger in the $50 range at Walmart/Amazon or any of these kinds of places. They're handy to have one around. Something like this: Schumacher.

I also like these small ones, which are basically slow chargers that can be left on indefinitely. Theyre good for when you have a car in storage for months, you just plug this in and leave it on. They are also capable of recharging your battery but itll take about 24 hours: battery tender.

u/gsasquatch · 2 pointsr/cars
u/Fulmario · 2 pointsr/Dashcam

The optima suggestion isn't going to solve the battery drain issue. Yes, it's a heavier duty battery. But if you keep pouring out 1/2 cup of water out of a jug and only replace it with 1/3 cup of water, you'll eventually run out of water.

Really needs to do a battery tender and get in the habit of plugging it in when they get home. A setup like this would be a good idea.

Have a quick disconnect say dangle through the grill of the car and plug the charger in nightly.

Edit: I like the Battery Tender brand myself.

Or the faster charger:

There are stupidly simple, just plug/connect them to the battery and they're automatic.

u/RedBeardMountainMan · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

What do you mean by a stop? Did it die at a stoplight, or die after you completely turned off the engine when it was parked?

If it's the latter, it's almost definitely a bad battery. Remove the battery, and take it to Autozone (or similar) to have them charge it for free. Otherwise, buy a battery tender that's capable of charging up a dead battery (like this), and charge it up.

u/Thatsnotasnake · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

I would say for the winter time a battery tender (if you live in a state with heavy winters) this one comes in right at $25

u/jleviathon · 2 pointsr/ElectricForest

Here is my secret list shhhhhh... It's not cheap options that's for sure but I like being comfortable I guess, and it's stuff that will last for years of festival fun!

  1. A deep cell marine battery: Available at any auto parts store for about $120. You can then buy a cheap cigarette lighter hook up and intall it onto the battery. Then get yourself a decent 200watt power inverter, about $30. Then you can get some decent sounding speakers that plug in or a bluetooth one. Then you can charge your phone, power the speakers, or charge the bluetooth. With these speakers the battery will last 16 hours! This will also prevent you from ever messing with your car stereo or battery for any reason. Then you can just recharge it with this for next year.

  2. Blackstone's The Dash Portable Gas Grill and Griddle Combo is a great grill to cook every meal you would ever need.

  3. Not to get controversial but these and these have always done me right.

  4. Then this and this will leave you fealing like a million bucks or like someone in GL!
u/mykal73 · 2 pointsr/Harley

if you look on amazon you can get a battery tender for fairly cheap. With my bike I plug it in when I put it in storage and unplug it when I'm ready to ride. I don't do anything else to the bike to winterize except change the oil in the spring.
Edit: Here's the tender I bought, it's 25 bucks...(

u/bilged · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

A battery tender will lengthen the life of your battery as well. Install some permanent leads so its easy to hook up and leave it on the tender whenever its parked at home.

u/dagbrown · 2 pointsr/scooters

Motorcycle battery chargers are relatively inexpensive (say, on Amazon for instance). It's definitely a worthwhile investment, especially if you're going to make a habit of leaving your scooter alone for extended periods.

u/huzzaboot · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

Geometry fixes: Move the clipons so they're in the same position on both sides. Also, you can loosen the fork tube clamps some and wiggle them around some, this should cut down on any tweaked geometry they might have. Tighten them after you're done.

The wire: That's a trickle charger with an SAE connection. You can hook up one of these so you can charge it when you're not riding. It's super nice, easy to disconnect plug.

u/sol3tosol4 · 2 pointsr/spacex

Possible in-transit repair materials for a micrometeoroid puncture of an MCT (including fuel or propellant tanks) include:

  • blind rivets (can be made of metal or other materials)

  • toggle bolts holding an external patch

  • adhesive patch

  • liquids or putties

  • fuel/oxygen compatible repair plugs, as previously described.

    And with luck, they'll never need to be used. But worth taking up a few pounds payload mass, nevertheless.
u/tigertony · 2 pointsr/Autos

A true pro will dismount the tire from the rim and patch the tire on the inside. Us DIYers use a plug instead, and yes, you can do it yourself. Pick up a plug kit at your local auto parts house or discount store. Get one with a T-handle. It doesn't have to be an expensive kit but the very cheapest ones have a "screwdriver" handle and won't give you enough leverage. This video will show you the procedure. DO NOT repair a puncture outside the tread area!

u/SirMontego · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips

Costco will also repair a flat tire that was purchased from Costco, but you gotta deal with the super long Costco tire wait.

I guess the real LPT is if you get a flat tire, call the place you bought the tire from and they'll probably fix it for free.

In the alternative, learn to use a tire repair kit, like this.

u/NoWordOfALie · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

Happy to help! All-season tires aren't bad at anything, but they aren't great either. Better than summer tires by a long shot, but aren't really comparable to winter tires in the snow. That being said, I have all-season tires on my van since it's kind of hard to carry an extra set with you to switch out twice a year when you're also living in said van.

Just make sure to get an allignment to lengthen the life of the tires, keep them properly inflated, and replace them when they get down to the wear markers to avoid hydroplaning and/or losing control in the snow. If you do happen to get stuck, don't stand on the throttle, as you'll only dig the hole deeper. Get out, let some air out of the drive tires to increase the contact surface, and then feather the throttle on and off to rock yourself out of the ditch/patch of snow. It's also a good idea to keep a simple tire plug kit and portable air compressor on hand just in case.

u/741800 · 2 pointsr/cars

You can also get a tire patch kit and do it yourself, takes 10 minutes and costs less than $10. You can buy it at Walmart, or any auto parts store. It should contain the following: Rubber strips, rubber cement, and a plunging tool.

Like that. It comes with instructions, but the gist is to coat a rubber strip in rubber cement, then fold it to form a "U" shape on the tip of the tool. Plunge the strip through the hole, then snip off the excess. The "U" shape allows for the rubber strip to maintain pressure against the hole. You can also do this yourself if you have some good rubber laying around from another tire, some rubber cement, and a screwdriver.

u/corezero · 2 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

That sucks. You could try taking it to a tire shop to see if they can plug it. Alternatively, I used a plug kit on my motorcycle when I got a flat - it held up well until I replaced the tire.

u/Enduro_Jeff · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

Oh, Snake wasn't referring to a brand. Slime is fine for brand. Snake is the type of kit, with the "strings" or whatever they are called, I have always heard them called snakes haha. this type of patch As sold here Also for a pump I have this one Its nice with the flexible hose so you can push it against the ground with your weight. Also the gauge is nice so you know when your done, I have tested this up to 100psi had no problems. It rides in my bag while I dirt bike, so it holds up well to abuse.

Edit, I just decided to check, and go figure your bike might have tubes... I don't know for sure, one site said this:
Custom has no tubes.
900 Classic, 900 LT, and 1500 Classic have tubes.
1500 Nomad, Mean Streak, and all 1600 and V2K are tubeless.
If you has tubes then the snake kit wont work. Also a tube repair roadside on that bike might be a bit extreme... You have to pull the wheel off, pull the tire off the wheel, patch the tube with a tube repair kit, then reinstall it all. I do this on dirt bike tires all the time, but with a road bike, I wouldn't bother trying. Just hope you don't catch a flat on the go.

u/sevenoverthree · 2 pointsr/Golf_R
u/stmfreak · 2 pointsr/motorcycle

I've run many, many patched tires. Learn to use the cat-turd plugs. You can get them at walmart or amazon. These things should be hard to put in and they will NOT come out. It helps (becomes possible) if you remove the valve core (and thus all the air) before trying to push the plug in from the outside. Use the rubber cement as lubricant, if it dries, you're not going to be able to push the plug in. The advantage is you do not have to remove the tire. I run them down to the belt after that, but never over 100mph (assuming it was a proper Z rated tire).

u/sjsharks323 · 2 pointsr/TeslaLounge

Now that I think about it OP, why not just patch it yourself? Patch kits are super cheap, and it looks like you have the tire off anyway? Tons of Youtube videos on how to do this, and it would only take you probably 15 mins? Worth a shot maybe?

u/FlickXIII · 2 pointsr/EDC

I wasn't trying to be a braggart. Sorry if I came off that way. I wouldn't carry the one I have if I wasn't so hard on my power chair but, chasing my three little ones around takes a toll on things. Unfortunately, power chairs are generally designed for people who spend their time indoors. I am not one of those people.
Have you ever considered packing a [tire puncture repair kits](Slime 1034-A T-Handle Tire Plug Kit in your car?

Edit; I give up on links!

u/tekdemon · 2 pointsr/teslamotors

I use the most basic slime kit but I can't seem to find it online, I think it's a one-off for auto parts stores. But the deluxe version is on Amazon here:

It's also sold at Walmart and in many auto parts places. I think it's slightly cheaper in store and some places carry the kit without the rubber cement.

u/just_play_one_on_tv · 2 pointsr/phoenix

They aren't anyway. Mechanics hate them. Have a portable air compressor (that has a cig lighter cable) and rubber plugs. It's cheap and much safer.

From Amazon: Plug Kit

From Amazon: Air Compressor

u/deathdragon1987 · 2 pointsr/videos

Just bought one, thanks! (UK Amazon page here)

u/ItGonBeK · 2 pointsr/WTF
u/TomMelee · 2 pointsr/EDC

I have a love-hate relationship with my keychain. There's nothing on it I want to / can get rid of, but I hate that it's so big. What I have on mine...

  1. My toyota car key---is irritating because it's so fat with the keyless.
  2. House key, work key, boat lock key.
  3. ResQMe which is nice and functional but damnit it makes my keys toooo big to fit in my pocket.
  4. Pico 16Gb flash drive. Thumbnail size, I run Liberkey on it and keep an encrypted TrueCrypt container with important personal info, the rest of the drive is open and unencrypted. Be aware that the ball-chain opens easily and needs replacing with something else.
  5. Carabiner. Right now I have a crappy non-load-bearing biner, I will be replacing it with a real one soon. My entire rack got stolen the last time I was on the rock, so I've been slow to re-gear. Mostly it gets used to clip keys to my pocket, but I can't stand the jingle-jangle and the flop of the ResQMe, I feel like a redneck janitor even though there are only 4 keys.
u/lickmybrains · 2 pointsr/WTF consider one of these, it's spring loaded spike with a seatbelt cutter

u/judsonzhao · 2 pointsr/FortWorth

You guys really need this
Can save lives sometimes.

u/sweatyfatguy1 · 2 pointsr/pics

Which is exactly why I keep one of these securely fastened within reaching distance of the driver's seat.

There's also this which clips onto your keychain.

u/TheRubyRedPirate · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Congratulations on your first contest! After gandering at your wish list, I think I may have found some items for you.

For $5 and under, since you like candy, old fashioned hard candy. Cinnamon is my favorite but they also have flavors like root beer, watermelon, lemon, and orange.

For $10 and under, I think everyone should have the escape tool. its a keychain that can cut your seatbelt and break your window in an emergency. Hopefully no one would have to use it but nice to have around.

Thanks for the contest!

u/meh-guy · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Hi, I want to try to build my first custom mechanical keyboard soon. I think I have everything sorted out, but I want to know if I'm making any mistakes. This is my part list:

  • DZ65RGB kit, with brass plate. Also with the upgrade to GMK screw-in stabilizers you can select when buying it.
  • Zealios v2 62g. Everyone seems to like these, so I thought I'd try them. I chose the lightest weight because I want it to have faster actuation for gaming.
  • Keycaps? I haven't found a keycap set I really liked. I wanted DSA profile, but I couldn't find a PBT set with a color scheme I liked. If anyone has any suggestions, I'd like to hear them.
  • Super Lube mixed with other super lube to lube the switches. The most common lube is a bit too expensive, and I found someone who used this as a cheaper alternative. It seemed to work for them.
u/Aezoc · 2 pointsr/hotas

I just used Super Lube on an old stick I'm tearing down and rebuilding. It works fine, although since I just did it I don't know yet how long it will last.

u/jescereal · 2 pointsr/flashlight

I personally just use silicone grease from home depot, but I've read great things about Super Lube.

u/Samurai_TwoSeven · 2 pointsr/airsoft

Super Lube Grease and Oil

u/gilbadon · 2 pointsr/MTB

Simple bike maintenance you need a multitool with:
allen wrenches (metric 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm)
screwdrivers (flat, Phillips, and Torx T-25)

With that alone, you can do most minor bike maintenance. You SHOULD however also buy some lube for bolts, nuts, pivots and more. Almost anytime you take something apart that is not the chain, when putting it back on you want to lube it. I use the following:

You also want chain lube. A must have if you want your drive train to last which is basic maintenance as well. You can buy a crap brush to clean it on a regular basis or a full blown kit.

Tire levers and a pump or compressor are also a must. There is always one reason or another why a tire will need to be removed.

u/XTechHeroX · 2 pointsr/airsoft
u/arcanemachined · 2 pointsr/prusa3d

Hey another commentor made me look into it again. It seems like Super Lube (synthetic grease with PTFE/Teflon) (Amazon link) is what is recommended these days.

The other two I mentioned before have been used by a lot of people over the years and I haven't heard anything bad about them, but the folks at Prusa seem to be recommending Super Lube these days (links here and here).

FWIW, I use machine oil and I'm going to keep using machine oil. As the second link mentions, mixing lubricants can cause reactions between the old and the new stuff which can wreck your shit.

Hope this helped.

u/Thanhtacles · 2 pointsr/Nerf

White lithium grease wont kill your orings, but many claim that it's a rather thick and stiff lube, thus not being optimal for plunger systems. For any other application it's fine. YMMV, but I generally also dislike it for this reason.

SuperLube synthetic grease is a favorite. Sticks well, great application range, durable. It's thinner than WL, but if it's too thick, my little trick to making it looser is to add a little bit of silicon oil and give it a good mix before applying it. Silicon oil btw is the grease you'll notice when you first open up your blasters; I found out when I emailed buzzbee and hasbro asking for what they use. It's very slick, and very thin. I find making use of both resulted in best of both worlds.

u/kungfu_jesus · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

You can find this at your local hardware store. Stab rattle can also be caused by the quality of the stab and size of wire. If you can remove and/or replace them easily I highly recommend genuine cherry stabs with this lube. The thicker wires and plastic used really help to tighten things up. I'm going on at least a month strong and no resurgence of rattle.

u/DocmanCC · 2 pointsr/Tools

I switched from Super Lube (which is great, I use it everywhere) to Permatex Ultra Engine Assembly Lube aka Red Lube of Love for my higher tooth-count ratchets. That stuff is extremely slick and sticky. Rats glide effortlessly, noticeably better than Super Lube. However, it is more quiet, so if you're the kind who feels or listens for the clicks you may not like it as much.

u/GooberMcNutly · 2 pointsr/IAmA

I haven't fixed those in particular, but a fat blob of o-ring compatible grease will keep most in place until assembly. For water o-rings I like Super Lube

u/portedtoreality · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I think the same machine oil you use for CNC will work, but I use sewing machine oil to lube the X and Y rods (couple drops) whenever they feel "dry" to the back of my finger:

For Z-axis, I use PTFE synthetic grease (drops all along the Z axis) like this every... 6 months?:

Also, make sure the extruder gears aren't grinding/biting into the filament too much and getting filament poo poo buildup all over the gears.

Spare nozzle, hotend, thermistor (I've only had to replace a hotend once in 2 years and also because I made a dumb mistake).

Don't be afraid to ask for help when you aren't sure because if you screw up, you may damage your printer.

u/Kabong · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Have you tried lubricating the z-axis threaded rod? It's not mentioned anywhere in the assembly guide, but I found that a liberal application of super lube did wonders for my RepRapPro Mendel. The Z axis used to bind constantly when it moved too fast and now it's perfect.

u/itsZiz · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I wanted to share my first experience with switch swapping. I was nervous because so many people said the Leopold was hard to desolder and this was my first time soldering any thing. But it all went really well, so I wanted to share in case any one else is thinking about it plus some info that might be useful to you veterans as well.

One part of keyboard customization I don't see addressed much is deadening the ping and case sound. Some people add foam to the bottom, but I found going between the PCB and Plate reduces sound a LOT. This baby is stuffed like a turkey and sounds amazing.

I've also seen a lot of people saying how great the Engineer solder sucker is. While the build quality is nice I'm not sure its worth $25, and most of the performance was because of the silicon tip. So I just added one to a cheap sucker and it worked great. I was worried about the temp as it says it isn't rated up to 350c but it worked great with barely any discoloring, and for like $1 you get 3ft so it basically lasts forever.


Links -

Neoprene $12 1/8" -

Soldering Station $37 -

Solder Sucker $5 -

Silicon Tube 5x7mm $1 -

DSA Caps $35 -

Super Lube $5 -


I realized I really don't like the DSA keycap profile but this was a really nice set, pretty thick and great dye sub printing, way more crisp than my Enjoy PBT Cherry profile set I've been using.


I didn't have any lifted pads or issues at all despite me being a total noob. Using a 2.4mm chisel tip and my solder sucker combo worked really well. Just stuck the flat tip on flat side (top/bottom) of the soldered stem, let it heat up for about 5-6 seconds and then sucked. At 350c on my soldering Iron most guides said this was too long but i didn't have any issues, and going quicker left a lot of residue.

Also with the silicon tip I didn't have to move the soldering tip and place the sucker over the stem (doing this fast before the solder cools down is a pita) because of the silicon I just pressed it on top with the soldering iron still heating and sucked all at once. DEFINITELY worth the $1, made the process so much easier.

I also used Super Lube for all my lubing. This is what a lot of people use for the stabilizers as its really thick but then use expensive stuff for the switches. I just used a very small amount (scrape your brush off and then wipe it on so you can barely see it but its shiny). Worked great, no ping from the springs and very smooth and a $5 tube will last forever.


I want to do another now! need to decide on what type of switches I might like more than these super light 35g box reds. Maybe some speed switches? And I'll want to do a good solid metal case.

Overall I'm just super happy the whole thing worked without any problems. I get to use my really good Leopold plate/base/pcb (i really like the led under caps/num lock to let you know its on) with switches I like more!


If any one has any questions or needs help doing their first switch swap let me know, I'm 1 for 1 haha.

u/gabedamien · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Recommend checking out the vintage section at bikeforums. Some tricks:

An oxalic acid bath for a day or so works well for removing rust from steel (but don't use it on aluminum). Flitz polish, which I used for a lot, requires a lot of "elbow grease" but gets a good shine on things – including paint (make sure the decals are below the clearcoat!), but it does strip the satin anodizing off of aluminum. WD-40 removes a lot of dried-on crud that mere soap and water fail to solvate. If a brake bolt is rusted into the frame, drip WD-40 onto it, use a block of wood as a buffer and smash it with a hammer. If the quill stem is stuck/rusted, unscrew the stem bolt a few mm, use a buffer and smash it with a hammer. - this will loosen the expander wedge. Turning the seatpost (keep the saddle attached) in one constant direction while pulling up is the best way to gradually remove it if it's stuck - twisting it back and forth will gouge it in a particularly ugly fashion. Um... get an adjustable (aka "crescent") wrench, I don't think a single nut on this bike worked with my normal wrenches.

That's all I can think of at the moment. Basic bike stuff also applies, like greasing the threads of every bolt and (almost) every metal-metal contact point (the cranks are supposed to be a dry press fit, though!), and lubing all the pivots & springs & whatnot. I like synthetic SuperLube with PTFE for grease, and a dry chain lube with Teflon for lubricant.

u/bigj231 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Bah. Save your money and go to your local hardware store. Tell them you want some clear grease like superlube. It's cheaper and perfectly fine for this kind of stuff.

Like this:

u/dankchia · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

> costar stabs are the worst!

Fight me.

They do the job of stabilizing keys far far better than cherry style ones. Way less wiggle, much smoother and if you lube them; Hooh baby. Recommend this stuff.

Easiest way to get them on is to take both plastic inserts, and thread them into the wire on the board. Align them so you can put the cap on, and then do so slowly. Once you get the hang of it, the difference between the two is negligible. Some grease helps with the alignment process thanks to the viscosity.

u/Trollygag · 2 pointsr/guns

Dis kind

Have also used dis but doggo chewed the tube so no mo squeezy.

u/Yonkiman · 2 pointsr/voroncorexy

IIRC, Super Lube is the Voron-approved grease.

u/GotMyOrangeCrush · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Any auto parts store will scan your stored DTCs for free. Step #1 is to determine what DTCs are stored.

If your CEL (check engine light) has been on, then there are DTCs stored. If your CEL was flashing, that means the engine was misfiring, big time. If your CEL is flashing there's a risk of doing engine and/or cat damage ($$$).

If you are determined to troubleshoot and fix it yourself, then a scan tool that does live data will show you what's wrong.

In general, a scan tool will tell you about all your sensors, or TPS (throttle position sensor) O2 sensor, ECT (engine coolant temp), MAP (manifold absolute pressure), etc. And 'live data' means you can see what they are doing when the engine is misfiring.

There are two ways to get a scanner, either a dedicated scanner or with a smarphone app.

  1. Dedicated scanner: Innova makes some easy to use scan tools, about $120 for a Innova 3040e.

  2. Scanner APP: Most scanner 'apps' are $5 and a bluetooth OBDII gizmo is about $20.



    OBD Auto Doctor

    Blue Tooth gizmo:
u/drgncabe · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

I'd get a code scanner. You can get bluetooth ones from Amazon for $30 (I use this one by BAFX) and use them with Torque if you have android (or if you have a laptop with bluetooth, there's a few applications that work).

Sometimes you can rent/borrow them from AutoZone or Advance Auto Parts but I'd call ahead before making the trip over there. Obviously getting the car there won't be easy.

It could be just a loose sensor cable, vacuum hose or pinched fuel line from the whack your car got. Code reader will give you a really good place to start. Hopefully it's something simple.

u/spunker88 · 2 pointsr/AndroidQuestions

You buy one of these bluetooth OBDII readers and plug it into the port on your car. All cars 1996 and newer have this port. Download the app Torque and connect your phone to the bluetooth reader. You can then view all sorts of data from your car computer and retrieve any check engine codes which you can look up online. You can also clear the code which will turn off the check engine light.
This was a lifesaver for me back in college. I was driving around a car that needed some exhaust work but didn't really have much money to put in it. By checking the code I could tell if it had a problem that needed to be addressed or if it was just something to do with the exhaust system.

u/Polaris2246 · 2 pointsr/subaru Thats the one I bought. Many of the reviews from users say it works great with Subaru. Quite a few of them specifically sited they worked with their 2011 WRX. Thats why I chose that specific adapter.

u/Sylithis · 2 pointsr/lyftdrivers

Buy a reader like and the torque app on your phone. Figure out the problem by diagnosing yourself and save a lot of money.

u/chmod777 · 2 pointsr/BMW

invest in an odbii scanner. Like one of these:

sure, takes the thrill out of guessing what the dealer is going to find.

u/octopoddle · 2 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

You can buy things like this (you can get them cheaper on eBay) which diagnose the fault with your vehicle and tell you what's up. They send the readings to your phone. You want to get the right one for your vehicle. (I don't have one of these yet, but reviews suggest they work pretty well.)

u/LookAtTheName · 2 pointsr/fordfusion

OBD2 reader

Android app

u/4benny2lava0 · 2 pointsr/internetparents

this guy explains how to look at a car and as a car guy I can say he is very through. Now would be a good time to invest in a OBD (on board diagnostic code reader. This is the one I use. I do not know about any that work for iPhone; if you need; pm me and I can look into finding you one that does not suck.

If you put in your due diligence you know if it can pass inspection and if not what it would take. This all affects your bargaining chips. Do not be afraid of offending the seller with your offer or how they might react. It is your money and you are going to make sure every dollar takes you as far as it can.

Since you do not know how to work on cars I suggest sticking to american and Japanese cars. European cars are designed differently; require different tools and IMO harder to work on. (I am sure they can say the same about american cars)

Anything built before the 08 financial crash stick to Japanese. There are a handful of good american SUV's made before then like the Jeep Cherokee; the one with the 4.0 inline 6. As for Japanese; toyota, honda, & mitsubishi are your best bets.

You are looking not only for something reliable; but something that is not going to cost an arm and a leg and require you to move a mountain trying to fix it. All cars will give you problems. I can fix just about anything outside of the engine and transmission; so that affects what I will buy. I can save a lot of money buying something that needs a days work rather than something working flawlessly right now. When you get in and drive it; it had better feel like the engine and transmission are working flawlessly. Any jerkieness, gear slippage, anything other than that engine and transmission running smooth as butter; walk away. There is nothing cheap and easy about internal engine and transmission work.

One more thing; decide whether you are buying something you want to trade in sell later or something you will run until it is dead. This affects your decision on what to buy right now.

You can call an insurance company and get a ballpark figure of what the car you are looking at will cost. My '04 MDX will cost about the same as the same year Mercedes e320 or toyota 4runner.

So you did your homework and decided what you are buying.

The owner signs the title over to you. You get the car insured, then you take the insurance and title to the local DMV and they will give you a temporary registration and a temporary license plate. Some states will give you a permanent license plate right there.

You take your plate and head back to the car; you put the plate on and start driving. You will probably need to get the car inspected. You head on over to the local inspection station and let them do their thing. If you fail they will tell you exactly why so you know what to do.

If you pass; they give you a sheet of paper saying that you did and you take that back to the DMV and they will issue you a permanent registration.

u/NotNotMovies · 2 pointsr/350z

This is the exact one I have. Connects to Bluetooth on your phone (only works with Android) and you download whichever app you fancy. I use torque lite to read the codes

u/BrotherAliMazda · 2 pointsr/mazda3

You can goto an autoparts store and they will read the code for free.

Buy a bluetooth OBD adapter that works with FORScan. This software has ALOT of power and acts like the dealer tools. I reprogrammed my ABS module when I rebuilt my 2014 (replaced module with a used one). Mazda themselves couldnt do it because their software can only writes the software but does not re-write over a module with software already on it.

What I used:

u/Rabbitholeinc · 2 pointsr/fortwayne

[heres one I bought figured it be nice to see a link] (

u/armildarken · 2 pointsr/cars

This one worked well for me, I bought one of the little blue cheap ones and it caused my ABS compute to go nuts on my toyota and wouldn't work on our ford. This one works fine with both IIRC.

Although I get so much use out (datalogging) of it I might buy one of the nice $70 ones in the future.

u/xXTowelieXx · 2 pointsr/Jeep

I've got this one right here that worked with no issue

u/wolfcry0 · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice
u/drummer2k7 · 2 pointsr/cars

I use it in my 04 Subaru wrx with the bafx adapter

Very useful tool for check engine lights and general diagnostics. Makes an incredible amount of data available to the home mechanic.

u/b3hr · 2 pointsr/civic
u/djj418 · 2 pointsr/4Runner

Sure, I use this. List of customizations. Unfortunately it looks like it's only for the 5th gens.

u/WebMaka · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

For best (read: accurate) results, make sure your dongle uses a genuine up-to-date ELM327 and not a bootleg knockoff running outdated firmware. (A Chinese company got hold of an older version that didn't have the security bits set right and did a ROM dump to get some of the firmware, which has gone into mass reproduction for the cheap ELM knockoffs. The real ELM, OTOH, has had several firmware revisions since then and isn't missing entire blocks of program code.)

This is the one I have as a spare/quick-and-dirty code checker. It works well, it's pretty accurate compared to my more expensive scanners, and it's a legit ELM327 running new firmware.


There are also new competitors to the ELM327, namely the STN1110, STN1170, STN2120, which claim to offer faster performance and a larger number of supported protocols. However, I have no experience with these as only a scant handful of dongles are using them.

u/nukii · 2 pointsr/Volkswagen

I'm looking into getting this one. Well rated, cheap, and it works with the Torque app.

But I haven't tried it

u/gablekevin · 2 pointsr/prius

I had the same lights and the car was running fine but I had the p0a93 which is a bad inverter pump generally (it's a cheap $60 for parts and coooant fix). So I replaced and I was still getting nothing. It turned out one of the connectors up towards the firewall that must control that pump had the wires chewed through by a rodent. So I got the wires resoldered up and everything was working again.

Btw every car owner should one of these Bluetooth obd 2 readers it will save you tons of money and headaches because then you can know whether your check engine light is something that can wait or has to be fixed now BAFXducts Bluetooth Diagnostic OBDII Reader/Scanner for Android Devices

u/nopistons93 · 2 pointsr/FordFocus

I would just invest the 20 bucks on a Bluetooth dongle. I've used that one for a few years now.

u/Zarkamo · 2 pointsr/cars

If you just need to clear codes then disconnecting and reconnecting the battery will do that for you. If you want a code reader anyway then I bought this code reader that has worked well with the Torque app. Only complaint is that it only updates about every second so horsepower, torque, and 0-60 don't get good readings. No idea if it is the dongle, app, or just what OBDII can do but something to be aware of.

u/nod9 · 2 pointsr/jeeptechnical

Drive time cycle for a misfire shouldn't be all that long. Drive it around for a day or 2 and then check the monitors.

FYI These things work fairly well

u/DarthSkittles · 2 pointsr/povertyfinance

BAFX Products Bluetooth Diagnostic...

We just got this one on Amazon for $22.41. I don't know if there are better ones, but I don't think that you necessarily have to spend a whole lot more to get a decent one, especially if Amazon is an option. I realize that it may not be for some people.

u/connorblikre · 2 pointsr/Volvo

I've been using this one for a few years and it works well with my 98 V70

u/jrentfro2910 · 2 pointsr/FiestaST

I bought one off amazon, it's 21.99 and only works with android but it works amazingly. BAFX Products 34t5 Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool for Android Devices

u/sparkie172 · 2 pointsr/subaru

You can go to autozone or wherever they check for you then look up online as code is generic. Each brand has their own specific meaning for the code. Before my cobb I used a Bluetooth obd2 reader 20$ online then used torque app from Android store free version to check and clear codes. It also does some pretty cool stuff for the paid version. The obd2 reader is small which I liked. I had 1 like this.

u/iHateMyUserName2 · 2 pointsr/GolfGTI

To go with the other reply from the Ross-Tech (worker?/user?/employee?) you can use it for that but there's a delay in the reading from a half second to a full second. It's not really all that noticeable unless you're kind of looking for the delay, but I think you'd be much happier with a boost pod.

Edit: also, if you're jailbroken you can use the bluetooth version of the transmitter but if you aren't jailbroken then you have to use the wifi version. Now I've not used the wifi, so I can't speak for how it performs, but I'd imagine that it would actually be better than bluetooth because of the latency (delay) associated with bluetooth as opposed to wifi.

u/AMACop_YouIdiot · 2 pointsr/gadgets

This is the one I got, along with the Torque Pro App on my samsung GS5, total of <$30 investment and makes it WAY easier to understand what is going on in your car. If you're in America and your car was made after 1996, it should have an OBD2 port

u/PM_ME_FOR_DIRTY_TALK · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Something like this You gotta download a app like Torque or Dash command and it will tell you the code.

u/tleaf13 · 2 pointsr/leaf

I bought the BAFX OBDII which has been working well for my 2013 Leaf and LeafSpy Pro using two different Android devices. It's also about $13 less than the LELink device.

u/Digipatd · 2 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

This is my OBDII reader and it works just fine for me, nothing really to say about it haha

u/whatwereyouthinking · 2 pointsr/Volkswagen

Confirmed, free Torque app + dongle does oil temps and a whole host of other readings.

I have used the BAFX Products 34t5 Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool for Android Devices ( for about three years on two different cars with no issues.

u/OnTheClock_Slackin · 2 pointsr/JeepRenegade

Don;t ignore an engine light, even if it goes away. You can stop by a locak auto parts store (auto zone, reilleys, etc) and they will scan for free in most states. It could be as simple as a loose gas cap or it could be a bigger problem, but if the light is coming on at all there is definitely something wrong. Maybe just a flukey sensor, but if the sensor is flukey then it's not really giving you truthful information about what it should be monitoring. You could also buy an ODB2 bluetiooth scanner tool on amazon for like $18, plug it in, connect to your phone and you can pull the codes yourself to see whats wrong.

u/dreamz7013 · 2 pointsr/Dallas

Like /u/rahtx said, Autozone can help you pull the error code. You can buy this from Amazon and be able to do same thing

Edit - That's for Android devices, not sure what OS you use, but that's the device you need for something like that.

u/flycrg · 2 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

I just got this along with this and I no longer have to worry about my check engine light. I keep it plugged in and use my phone now to give me instantaneous fuel milage. Really changed my dring habits.

u/Force_Multiplier · 2 pointsr/SanJose

There's tons of super generic ODB2 scanners for iPhone or Android on Amazon for ~$20. Android ones tend to be Bluetooth-based, iPhone ones tend to be Wifi-based.

e.g. (only works on Android)


u/abnormalreply · 2 pointsr/Android

Torque Pro + this.

u/GSnow · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips

I use the paid version, but that's not necessarily due to any extra features (I'm not sure I use them, or even remember what they are). I just have a thing about paying for software that's worth it, so I just do.

The unit I bought was this one (although it's gone up to 24 bucks according to Amazon).

u/blandreth94 · 2 pointsr/ToyotaTacoma

This method worked great for my 2015 AC. It should work on 2012ish+ tacos.

You will need a bluetooth or USB OBD adapter. You can get them fairly cheap on amazon however the standard one seems to be the BAFX tool for bluetooth. I then used a simple OBD2 Terminal app (for android, either this one or this one, can't remember I used) to send the commands.

Just be extra careful and make sure you type the commands in exactly as shown.

I am not liable for anything ever.

Edit: FYI: No matter the method, any changes of this nature are automatically reverted when the battery is disconnected.

u/duckstuck · 2 pointsr/videos

Also grabbing an OBD scanner online and reading error codes as they happen. Has definitely saved me some money by being able to do some quick diagnostics.

[Example](BAFX Products 34t5 Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool for Android Devices

u/nexussloth · 2 pointsr/autorepair

It works with most android scanner apps (I use carista, it's free). it cost me $20 and works great.

EDIT: also, what error code? (eg: p0400)

EDIT x2: Shot a quick question to my buddy who had issues with EGR shit not that long ago. Try replacing the gas cap. He sank about 150 bucks into his car before a new gas cap fixed his issues. It's a cheap place to start.

u/weatherjack_ · 2 pointsr/cars

Here check this. Not limited to this one. Check around.

u/on_the_nightshift · 2 pointsr/saab

My son's first car, bought this year, is an '06 9-3 2.0T as well!

These cars like to throw codes/check engine lights (CELs). Do yourself a favor and order one of these and buy "Torque Pro" from the Google Play/Apple app store. You'll have less than $30 in it all together, and it gives you some nice tools besides just the ability to read and reset codes.

As someone else said, google for any issues you have, they have likely been answered. Might as well make an account on saabcentral and saabnet. Lots of good info and knowledgeable people on those sites.

When (not if) you have to replace the coils, make sure you buy the right ones. ONLY the ones with the correct markings will work correctly. There are LOTS on the market that say they are correct, but aren't. Here's one that I know works (my son's car has 4 new ones). If you sign up for Advance's "SpeedPerks" membership (free), you'll get discounts, money back, etc. Order this stuff online, even if you're picking it up in store. Their website sometimes even has $40 off $100! Usually at least 20-30% off.

Anyways, I hope this helps, and feel free to ask any questions!

u/Chalmun · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

Definitely. I have this one with Torque and it works great. There are different ones and prices (I got this one for ~$14) The scanners you have just give you an error code, these give you so much more information. Plus the live data readouts with the engine running are just fun to watch.

u/Scgbiker · 2 pointsr/subaru

obd ii bluetooth from amazon- $23. Maybe worth a try to reset on your own and you can read/reset fault codes using Torque Pro app, don't know if it voids warranty. worth reading into.

u/Trek7553 · 2 pointsr/androidapps

I use this one. It sticks out a little far so I can't leave it plugged in all the time, but it works great. I use Torque Pro for the app.

u/MozeeGrad · 2 pointsr/Trucks

I know the boost I was getting because I was using the Torque Android app with this Bluetooth adapter.

The total investment is around $25 for a full scanner with live data. Check it out. It's worth it.

Edit: It will be closer to $29-30 now I guess

u/BlackholeZ32 · 2 pointsr/Nissan

This is the one I use. Haven't had any issues with it.

u/MyD0gNeedsaJ0b · 2 pointsr/JeepRenegade

Get one of these. Download an OBD app. The apps I've used will bring up specific codes and read out faults.

I will add that this may not be rock solid advice as I've heard of some newer vehicles freaking out and requiring their software to be reinstalled. If it Renegade, I wouldn't hesitate to give it a shot in your circumstances.

You may be thinking "This isn't good advice because I want to know now" and don't want to wait for shipping. I still recommend ordering one even if you explore other avenues. I bought this exact unit and it has paid for itself multiple times just in fuel savings of driving to a AutoZone/dealership.

Wish you luck and hope the best for you and your Renegade!

u/nicksvr4 · 2 pointsr/Android

This is the one that was recommended to me. The previous BT and USB ones wouldn't even connect to my Honda Pilot, but this one did without a hitch at all. And those other ones would work sometimes with other cars (Eclipse, Civic, etc)

u/vettenyy · 2 pointsr/Trucks

This is the one I bought:

I use it with Torque Pro on Android.

u/Taurik · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

Download Torque on your phone and buy something like this (this is the one I use):

or go to an autoparts store and have them hook up their scan tool and pull the code.

There's really no point in guessing, as it could be anything.

u/shark_and_kaya · 2 pointsr/mazda3

I have this it's reliable, cheap, and it works good. It's bit bulky so if you have the correct transmission, you might hit your foot while shifting.

However torque pro app still have log issues and UI is absolute garbage.I wish someone would come up with a better app.

u/bmorocks · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

I agree here. I bought my Bluetooth dongle from Amazon and use the Torque app, which is available only for Android. I do use the paid version, however, and it works wonderfully.

Beware of some of the cheap-o Bluetooth adapters on eBay as some might not be able to work with the CANBUS protocol. Just make sure the eBay seller has a decent return policy if you do buy on there.

The app + Bluetooth adapter combination works great for me. It makes it easy to look up codes and save them. If you want more information for a code than just a quick one line description, the app takes you to a website that displays more information about it. It's pretty slick, cheap, and more handy than some of the regular OBDII scanners with the built-in screens.

u/themangeraaad · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

For anyone looking to do this be sure to read the reviews. I know that some of the cheap Bluetooth adapters don't work with every make of car (or I've read that this is the case, at least with fords).

That being said there are some that work pretty universally... Just do some research before clicking "buy" on the first adapter you find.

Edit - Just got back to my computer and could look it up. This is the specific Bluetooth OBDII adapter I've got which so far has worked fine on Ford, GM, Dodge (Jeep), VW, and probably a couple other makes:

u/commiecat · 2 pointsr/subaru

I have this Bluetooth reader + Torque + ActiveOBD Torque plug-in. I get the normal car info from Torque and the plugin adds some Subaru-specific readouts like CVT fluid info, AWD transfer percent, etc.

The plugin has a setting for "knocking correction". There are a ton of other ones.

u/eibv · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Maybe 5 years ago. Hardware is negligible now a days. Just check reviews before you buy. I got this one for $18 a few years ago and have never had a problem with it.

u/redthirtytwo · 2 pointsr/saab

You may have a failing DI cassette.

First, get one of these:
Plug is in the footwell under the steering wheel.

Pair it with your Android (phone/tablet) running this app to read the engine codes, etc:

A failing DI cassette may not show a code/CEL and exhibit this behavior.

u/umaxtu · 2 pointsr/gadgets

This is the one I've got. The app I use is called TorquePro (its like 4 bucks)

u/bmxbang7 · 2 pointsr/projectcar

They aren't cheap! I have a temporary set up Currently, I'm Running this OBD 2 reader

I have a android tablet (that my wife also got me) that I use for the gauges currently. Works fantastic and gives me everything I need so I don't have to worry about dropping 💴 on gauges until the end. I can't remember the app I have but it cost like maybe 5 bucks but was worth every penny. I can Get you the app I use if you want

u/smoothcicle · 2 pointsr/nexus6

I was gonna ask what brand but you said you've tried multiple ones ("blue EBay"...I'm guessing a generic, no-brand). Are they all those cheap adapters (sub $10) that seem to often give users problems? Torque's dev cautioned against them but mainly because they didn't always play nice with certain vehicle manufacturers iirc.

I'm stumped, sounds like you've done all the obvious troubleshooting to verify it's not the adapter itself unless all the adapters you tried have the same problem (why I asked which ones).

I use a BAFX adapter, didn't want to pair the first time I used it after updating to M but did on the second try, connected, scanned no problem.

u/trendicoff · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips

I used the free version to check the error code and clear them (it was a false positive and it hasn't come back, but it would have prevented me from passing inspection)
The device I used is this one:

u/einulfr · 2 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

Pair it up with Torque or DashCommand.

u/DarmokNJelad-Tanagra · 2 pointsr/4Runner

Woah that is cool. I was trying to get my tranny temp too, and bought one of those OBD readers (this one: Unfortunately it doesn't seem to work for Tranny temp... is there any way I could combine your code info with this thing to make it work?

u/aerosquid · 2 pointsr/dataisbeautiful

I have Torque on my android that outputs a similar map. Torque also lets you capture all kinds of data if you have an OBDII reader or even without one it would give you a map like this with speeds and elevation changes etc. Bluetooth readers have gotten cheap, i picked this one up from Amazon ($23.99 w/Prime) and it works really well-

u/stealth210 · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

Here's the one I got:

And here's the application I used called Torque for android. This is me testing it out on my tablet:

It also does other things like I said checking for error codes, resetting check engine light, data logging, graphing, etc.

u/Perryn · 2 pointsr/prius

This is the one I've been using on my Gen3. It works well with every Android app I've used with it, including using Carista to remove the reverse beeping. Now it only beeps one time when I first put it into reverse.

u/Lowley_Worm · 2 pointsr/leaf

I don't have an iPhone so I got this one:
Works fine on my 2017 with my phone & tablet.

u/withoutapaddle · 2 pointsr/tdi

This is the one I'm using:

Only issues I've had with it were not being able to read any codes on a Prius, but I kinda assumed that was a hybrid thing. Seems to work well for my VW.

u/j4nd0 · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

My humble opinion would be that before you invest in a mechanical keyboard is to get a switch tester ( ) so you can personally feel each type and you make a decision that you will not regret.
And also if u can try to get a Varmilo, Leopold or Ducky. Don't let the "gaming" mech keyboard lure you with their "features".

u/Leang · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Yup, there are various samplers out there. This one is all Cherry MX. I would also not discount Gateron as they're very very close. This one is a bit expensive but offers both Cherry MX and Gateron. What I would do, is just get the Cherry MX tester to get a feel for the differences in linear vs tactile vs clicky. Then you can choose Cherry MX Reds (linear), or Brown (tactile), or Blue (clicky). The Chroma you have is either clicky or tactile. Good luck!

u/super_soaker_sheriff · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

If you're worried about getting the right kind of switches, you could try ordering a switch tester to get a feel for different kinds. It's a way to spend a couple bucks to make sure you're getting exactly what you want.

u/futurebb · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

that's totally cool, try them for a month, or see about getting a [cherry mx switch tester] ( and see how they compare

u/-0-7-0- · 2 pointsr/teenagers

Okay so for your first, you def want to buy a pre-built one, since building your own with parts takes both a lot of keyboard knowledge and a lot of money. I would, personally, suggest either getting a CoolerMaster (any model is good) or a Vortex Pok3r, since they both have relatively good stock keycaps and are well-priced. Before that, if you have $10-15, then I would really advise getting a switch tester so you can decide what type of switches you like. It's better than spending $100+ on a keyboard you don't like. To address your last concern of not liking the board, you can sell a "nicer" keyboard on r/mechmarket, a sub for buying and selling boards, and probably come close to breaking even. But to sell on mechmarket, you need a "desirable" keyboard, which is why I recommended getting a CoolerMaster or Pok3r. They're both pretty good boards/brands. No matter what, though, DO NOT get a Razer/Logitech/Steelseries/Corsair board. They're really overpriced, shit build quality, and nobody would want to buy them for more than 60% of retail on MechMarket.

Along with this, if you want a personal rundown and recommendations on switches, then just let me know.

Also, if you don't have as much $ to spend (or even if you do), I would suggest the Anne Pro board. It's hella good build quality for the price, and a lot of people say that the gateron switches on them feel better than MX switches (which both the pok3r and all of CoolerMaster's selections use.)

Also, I always recommend blue switches because of how nice the click feels to me (and BTW, cherry and gateron blue switches are pretty similar- most switch companies use a consistent coloring system for switches where blue is clicky, brown is tactile (semi-clicky), and red is linear (not clicky at all)) but it's all up to personal preference, so I would again suggest you get a tester or try some boards out at a local computer store to see which kind you like.

Hope all this helps!

u/Lucidiously · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

A 2080 might even be overkill for 1080p depending on what games you play, but it should last you a long time and also leaves you the option to upgrade to a 1440p monitor if you so desire.

I'm not that knowledgeable about mice and keyboards, but for a mouse you can't really go wrong with a Logitech G502.

For (mechanical) keyboards there is a lot of choice in the $50-150 range, depending on what features you want such as RGB, I know Corsair makes good ones and I've got a CoolerMaster myself that I'm quite happy with, but there are a lot of other manufacturers. You could ask the folks over at /r/MechanicalKeyboards for advice, but be warned that it's a rabbithole, before you know it you'll be looking at $250 keyboards with custom keycaps. ;)

One thing I would do when it comes to mechanical keyboards is figure out what switches you prefer, there's a lot of variation. The ones that are used the most are Cherry MX, which come in several colours denoting their function. Reds are more silent and offer no resistance, Browns are more tactile, Blues are clicky like a typewriter and Blacks are like Reds but require a bit more force push down. Those are just the most common ones, and afaik most gamers stick with Reds or Browns. A switch tester like this can help you decide, you can find them much cheaper on Aliexpress though.

u/yavultheturtle · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

How can I convert my WASD 6-Key Cherry MX Switch Tester into a macro keyboard?

u/HotRoderX · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

How about a key tester? those aren't to overly expensive and could be extremely helpful...

u/ShadyFountain · 2 pointsr/GirlGamers

I love my Logitech G402 mouse. I have fairly average hands, but I like that it's a bit narrower. It is a bit on the long side, but nothing too crazy.

For keyboards, as people mentioned, you'll want to figure out what kind of switches you want. For Cherry MX, Blue, red, and brown are the most common, but there are a whole load of other colors. Personally, I like browns because I like the tactile feedback (unlike reds), and they're fairly light and are quieter than blues. If you have a store that carries them nearby, definitely try them out. You can also get testers on amazon for about $15, depending on how many switches you want to try. This for example has the usual switches, as well as black, green, and clear, and comes with dampener rings to try as well. I've had a lot of Logitech peripherals over the years, so I ended up with the G710+ board, and I'm happy with it. It's pretty wide as it's a full board, plus has macro keys along one side, but I like having the option of using them :)

u/TheRybka · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Monster stickers, which make my computer go faster. /s

Try out Greenshot. Free program that sits in your tray and can quickly capture regions for screenshots. Has some other neat options too.

Get a headphone stand. Banana stand works too (I heard there's always money in them?).

If you want neat shit to fidget with while waiting on loading screens (like me!) consider a Cherry MX Switch Tester. Literally thinking of buying one for myself while writing this out. Seems like a neat little thing.

u/WarningTakeCaution · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

You want a switch tester, WASD makes a good Cherry one:

As for the rarer switch types like Topre and Zealios... yeah I don't know without spending too much money by buying the switches and something to mount them on. Sucks. Someone should make one massive switch tester and then pass it around r/mk

u/Yhutsa · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I can't help you with the keyboards themselves as you aren't in an area with stores, but; this might help you deciding which switches?

u/FullDerpHD · 2 pointsr/gaming

Well if price is no issue the very first thing I suggest you do is order a switch tester

This is so you can actually feel what each type of switches are like.

After that start looking at suggestions/keyboards that use the type of switches you like.

I personally really do like my K70

It's very solid and well built. Comfortable and you can use all kinds of lighting effects.

As for a mouse if you're into FPS games check out zowie products and pick one that matches your grip type well. Logitech and Razer also make good mice.

A naga like you mentioned in your other post would be a good mouse for the more casual games where you might want more buttons.

u/Wolf_Hook · 2 pointsr/ar15

I've been using this grease on my CH and BCG. So far it's been great.

u/BigTung · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

$80 Zealios V2 67g Switches (These are 20% off right now if you want to get them cheaper!)

$160 KBDFans DIY Kit (Tofu Case, DZ60RGB PCB, Polycarbonate Plate, Stabilizers, Screws, USB C Cable, etc)

$25 Keycaps

$5 Super Lube 21030 (for lubing stabilizers)

Total Cost: $270


Next Upgrades:

$30 - Zeal Transparent Gold Plated PCB Mount Screw-in Stabilizers V2

$67 - Blue Zilents V2 Switches (Silent Tactile)

$8 - Tribosys 3204 Switch Lubricant

$75 - EPBT x biip Extended 2048 PBT Keycaps Set

u/HungryMacaroon · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Can I use Super Lube 21030 to get rid of the crunchy noise my aftermarket springs make, or is it too thick?

Thanks in advance!

u/jamiehofer · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Honestly as long as you purchase the aluminum Y-axis plate and use spacers alongside my Z-axis bed leveler you will get just as nice results. If you have a wood Y-axis plate you may not want to use spacers and possibly look into auto bed leveling solution.

I use something like this for lubricant:

As for the spacers I use aluminum spacers that are (I think) 1/4" OD 1/4" Length >3mm ID. Aluminum while the difference is most likely very little, it still is slightly better. I just would recomend going to a hardware store and finding spacers with an OD of 1/4" and length of 1/4" the ID does not matter as long as you can fit a 3mm bolt through it. Best to find something with a somewhat thick wall.

u/tquiring · 2 pointsr/Acura

This is the one i bought and used, took about an hour for each headlight, you will need an electric drill and a roll of painters tape.
Pro Tip: Put lots of tape around each headlight at least 3 layers thick (because you WILL hit it with the sandpaper)

I was skeptical before i tried doing this, but it actually worked really really well. Best of Luck.

u/xHaZxMaTx · 2 pointsr/automotivetraining

Seriously, $14 and less than an hour. Though sealing the lens in a little more expensive. I just did mine this past weekend: before and after. Sealed them with Optilens which is pretty expensive, but supposed to last the life of the car.

u/gedden8co · 2 pointsr/vintageaudio

That is also basically what I just used from 3M to restore my headlights. It was 2 sandpaper steps, a trizact pad, then polish.
This is the kit
Edit: And the headlights

u/SupaZT · 2 pointsr/LAlist

Yeah I researched this at one point but never got around to it. All I saw was Toothpaste + Baking Soda.. and sand paper.. but never a UV blocker. Prob is i'm 20 miles away haha. My car is 8 years old though and they are starting to fade.
I bookmarked these at one point but never got around to buying them


u/gear9242 · 2 pointsr/MyLittleMotorhead

With this! The reviews are pretty darn accurate. From my experience, be very liberal when you apply the masking tape around the lights, and you might have to break out the old elbow grease for some corners.

Otherwise, shit works like a charm.

u/ucfierocharger · 2 pointsr/vinyl

I've used this on multiple tables. It works wonders, but be sure to put some masking tape over that little technics logo in the center. Plus you can shine up your headlights afterwards!

u/dsteele713 · 2 pointsr/cars

Assuming you have a drill, $13 for a 3M Headlight kit. I drive a 2001 Honda and just did mine, and the difference was quite noticeable. The headlights are much brighter now since it's not being absorbed and redirected by those cloudy-ass lenses.

I'd spend $15 on an OBDII Bluetooth adapter and ~$6 on the premium version of the Torque app so you can read fault codes and real-time engine data.

We're at $34 right now. I'd buy a bottle of rain-x, some microfiber towels, and some cleaning products for my car (glass cleaner, soap, wheel cleaner, etc.), and that might come to another $30, though you could easily spend more if you don't have any cleaning supplies or decide to get all the goodies. I would then spend a few hours and go to town on your car. The few hours I spent were totally worth it when I consider how much more I enjoy driving my car now.

Finally, I'd buy a nice cabin air filter for $15 or so and replace the old one that is probably long overdue (when I replaced mine I found it had never been replaced in the car's 185k service). That will increase the quality of the air coming in quite noticeably.

We're at $79 so far. I would go on your car's forum to see if there are any cheap fixes or improvement you can make to the car. I had a problem where sometime when the car would go over bumps or take a hard turn I would hear this squeaking noise. Turns out that the front suspension bushing can rub against the bare metal surrounding them when they get old, and a few bucks worth of lithium grease will quiet them down to where you can't hear them. Simple, cheap fix that made me love the car more. See if you can find something like that for your accord.

I also think minerdeity's Aux to bluetooth adapter would be great if you have an old car that doesn't have bluetooth.

u/brimstn · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

First, you’re going to need a drill with a chuck instead of a 1/4” bit holder. This is a good start:

If you don’t have a good drill, there’s this one but you’re in for some elbow grease:

u/Preact5 · 2 pointsr/Integra

Thank you! I think they look 90% as good as new!!

I used the 3m restoration kit

3M 39008 Headlight Lens...

And this Sylvania restoration and UV coating

SYLVANIA - Headlight Restoration...

u/dgtlgk · 2 pointsr/vegaslocals

I second the idea of just doing it yourself. The sylvania kit the other commenter posted will work just fine if you’re doing it by hand. If you have a powered drill then I’d recommend this 3M one instead. Worked great for me on two separate vehicles.

3M 39008 Headlight Lens Restoration System $11.04

u/govtwtchdog · 2 pointsr/SubaruForester
u/tabatchoy · 2 pointsr/Trucks

I wouldn't do that since the toothpaste method is just a band-aid solution. I recommend a headlight restoration kit.

Shameless plug to /r/AutoDetailing

u/ICA2015 · 2 pointsr/rav4club

This is the one I got for mine: 3M 39008 Headlight Lens Restoration System

u/LagCommander · 2 pointsr/cars

I use the 3m kit plus this sealant and it has personally worked out pretty well for me, but I'm a pretty amateur detailer.

I also have done a decent amount of side work with it and prefer to do the lower grits by hand and use a drill/polisher for the 2000 grit sand + polish.

Edit: I'll add it's probably not a permanent solution, but on my previous vehicle I had a lot of trouble with cheaper "headlight protectants" and it would slowly start to yellow after 4 months. Not major, but enough for a detailers' eye to notice. With the meguiars I never noticed it again.

u/Mako18 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I finally got around to fixing the cloudy lenses on my 2001 VW Passat.

I used:

  • 3M headlight restoration kit
  • 3M Green Masking Tape
  • DeWalt corded power drill
  • Microfiber cloth

    A couple notes for anyone considering doing the same:

  • Definitely use at least two layers of tape anywhere the sanding disk might make contact with the body. Keep a close eye on the tape to make sure you're not wearing through. The shape of your headlights and front-end may make it easier or harder to avoid hitting the masked areas. Remember: tape: $7/roll, fixing a spot that you sanded through on your bumper: more than $7
  • My drill had a max RPM of 2600, directions call for a max of 1600 RPM, so I was careful to avoid going "full throttle". Going too fast can cause things to get too hot when sanding, and cause more harm than good.
  • Don't be stingy with your sanding disks. You'll probably have extra, but making a couple extra passes is much better than a couple too few, because if you don't take off enough material at any stage, it will be difficult to compensate later.
u/i0nicx · 2 pointsr/RX8

I picked up a 3M kit, here's the link

u/I_Kick_Boxes · 2 pointsr/G35

Just used the 3M headlight restoration kit (with rotary/drill attachment) and also used this Meguiar's headlight coating
to seal it in a little. Been over a year and still lookin fresh!

u/ratamack · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Use the 3M headlight restoring kit or order new assemblies on ebay.

3M 39008 Headlight Lens Restoration System

u/PancakeZ33 · 2 pointsr/350z

You could also try using the 3M Headlight Restoration Kit.

u/couchst · 2 pointsr/Portland


u/showmethestudy · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips

3M Headlight Cleaner System

Works amazingly well. I love it. Really cheap too.

u/fripletister · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips

If you have a drill, get a 3M headlight restoration kit. Comes with all the sandpaper pads, compounds, etc that you need, and it's easy. $15 well spent, IMO - took me a couple of hours to do both headlights because I took my time, but they turned out like new.

u/gh0stmach1ne · 2 pointsr/civic

Sure did! I used this and then this to seal it

u/throwaway7n3xp0 · 2 pointsr/GrandCherokee

I highly recommend this 3m headlight restoration kit.

It worked great on the one WJ headlight I did. It did all I could ask for, but the pitting in places was too deep. I bought a set of new ones on ebay for $80.

The quality is not OEM, but for the money they're spectacular and you would think they're OEM looking at the face.

The only issue is regular 9006 headlights won't go into the low beam housing. You need to use 9006xs bulbs which are a straight piece instead of having the 90 degree bend for the plug.

u/SkeletorTheSpook · 2 pointsr/XTerra

If your headlights were as bad as mine, I can completely recommend the 3M headlight restoration kit.

It worked insanely good and made the process easy, plus it was only $11. Just follow the instructions and it'll go well, plus a lot of people recommend clear-coating. I can't really do that because the humidity pretty much stays above 80% down here, but the kit has enough material and polish that it could be used a couple more times to do maintenance.

u/mag0802 · 2 pointsr/Mustang

There's a $5 rebate on it too. You need a drill to attach the pads to, some painters tape, a microfiber towel, and a spray bottle. But it worked flawlessly.

u/Daamus · 2 pointsr/infiniti

This is the exact one i bought, and it turned out really nice, as long as you take your time and do each step thoroughly you will be in good shape.

u/ForHumans · 2 pointsr/Volkswagen
u/jermvirus · 2 pointsr/BmwTech

Let me start by saying i think i over did it, but I am happy with the results

Let's start with what I purchased:

  1. Turtle Wax 50764 Drill-Based Headlight Restorer
  2. 3M 39008 Headlight Lens Restoration System
  3. Turtle Wax T-43 (2-in-1) Headlight Cleaner and Sealant - 9 oz

    Then this is the process I used:

  4. Start dry sanding with 3M #1 and then #2 Disc
  5. Wet sand with Turtle wax #1 > #2 and finally 3M #3 disc
  6. Buff with Turtle Wax compound, repeat this step until i was happy
  7. Apply clear coat from TurtleWax kit
  8. Apply sealant from TurtleWax kit

    I plan to touch up with the TurleWax sealant every 8 weeks.

u/ZZZ_123 · 2 pointsr/lepin

Also, I have this kit at home and going to try and first polish it this way, before spending any money. I'll report back about this first.

u/hawkweasel · 2 pointsr/Acura

Sure thing!

Caution: I'm an idiot and got a little overzealous when I first started. Though I placed tape on the paint around the headlights, I pressed a little too hard at one point and the sandpaper went through the tape and scuffed up my paint just a little. Be gentle and careful and you'll be fine. Use multiple layers of tape too.

u/powersaucebar · 2 pointsr/Honda

The easiest way is to buy a headlight polishing kit. 3M sell one.

u/Montagge · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

First one I ever got was an Autel MaxiScan M300. It doesn't suggest fixes, but that's what I used google for! Worked great on ever car I used it on

edit: I still use it when all I want to do is read or clear codes and not read live data

u/ToGTIorNotGTI · 2 pointsr/Volvo


Like this one here

u/boxerswag · 2 pointsr/subaru

This is a very common Subaru code. It ranges from seemingly "unfixable" (i.e., reflash the ECU to ignore it), catalytic converter replacement, rear O2 sensor, exhaust leak, all kinds of stuff. I wouldn't worry too much unless other symptoms/codes appear. My car throws a P0420 about every 1000-2000 miles (edit: and still gets high 20's average and drives fine).

In the meantime, buy one of these so you can read and clear your own OBD-II codes.

u/AndrewWaldron · 2 pointsr/Louisville

Exact one I bought. Very simplistic but it worked for reseting my codes. Now, what you may encounter, is the CEL will come back on because whatever tripped the CEL in the first place will likely trip again if you've removed a component. Just a heads up.

u/DeterrenceTheory · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

I bought this one about a year ago, no complaints. Cheap. Easy to use. However, it doesn't look like it's sold directly by Amazon anymore, and I'm sometimes wary of the overseas third-party sellers. In general, you probably won't go wrong with any of the readers sold on Amazon with hundreds of good reviews.

u/brock_lee · 2 pointsr/cars

> I'm just worried Canadian Tire is going to list out a bunch of stuff for me to fix

I think you can count on that. That's why they DO inspections.

> How often should I change my oil?

On a beater? Every 5K to 7K miles, regardless of time.

> I don't want to pay $100 just for them to run the code

You can buy a code reader on Amazon for $20, and it can also reset the light. Of course, the light will just come on again soon if there really is a problem.

I have this one:

Works great.

u/Alex-Gopson · 2 pointsr/Audi

If you go to Amazon and type in "OBD2 scanner" you'll get tons of different results. They have all kinds of scan tools nowadays. The more expensive ones with really advanced features can even cost thousands of dollars and look like freaking Ipads!

But a basic $15 scanner like this is still great to have. It's super simple to use. You plug it into your cars OBDII port (located in the driver's side footwell, usually somewhere near the hood release latch.) Then flip your key to the "on" position (don't turn the engine on, just turn on the ignition such that you can use the car's accessories and unlock the steering column.)

From there you can pull codes as well as erase them. The scanner will come with more detailed instructions but it's pretty self-explanatory. The thing only has 2 buttons so if you can use a computer or cell phone it shouldn't be a challenge.

u/jevan027 · 2 pointsr/Miata

Yes. Its illegal for them to clear them in a lot of states now. Personally, I just bought a cheap scanner off amazon that works fine. But if you ask them to 'loan' you the trouble code scanner they wont be there to supervise you. You might have to hand them your license while you do it though.

u/brianinswfla · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

It won't help you now but for the future you should get a reader. There is a cheap one ($17.10 with Prime) on Amazon. I have had it for awhile and it comes in very handy.

u/Rishodi · 2 pointsr/personalfinance

This is a great post, but I do have a couple of counterpoints to make:

  • Don't change your car's oil every 3000 miles. Follow the owner's manual instead. Most cars being driven today only need oil changes every 5000 miles.

  • You can buy an ODB-II scanner for as little as $30, but many auto parts stores (Autozone, Advanced Auto) will pull the codes for you without charge.
u/habeemred1 · 2 pointsr/newjersey

So just disconnect the negative for a few minutes and drive around? I bought a an ODBII reader that worked for another

I am hoping with disconnecting the negative on the battery and driving around with this plugged in that I will see evap ready. I found it on a toyota4runner forum that some guy used it when he had same issue until it read evap ready. It will arrive Sunday and than I will play around and hope on day off I will be able to pass inspection

u/woofwoofdog99 · 2 pointsr/Jeep

I've got a 2011 wk2 that's had more than its share of problems and this thing was well worth the $16.

But yeah, with the factory warranty you won't pay a penny to have whatever the problem is fixed.

u/JonSzanto · 2 pointsr/fountainpens

Don't worry too much, you should be able to clean it up. Here are the steps I'd take, from least invasive to most...

  • First up, rinse the inside of the cap out under running water, dry the inside as best you can with a rolled up piece of paper towel, and then leave open overnight to completely dry. For the barrel, short of taking it apart (i.e. pulling out the section, I'd just leave it, hoping that ink didn't find a way to go in through the outside of the lever box).

  • Once you are there, you should first wipe the entire pen with a damp cloth (cotton, not paper towel - you want soft). If that doesn't remove the red, then put a couple drops of dish soap on the cloth, wet it, and then wipe the pen off again. If this doesn't do it, try a cloth with a bit of Windex (which is just really diluted ammonia in water) and wipe with that.

  • Now, if none of those steps works, and you really think the body is stained (I kinda wish you would have mentioned which color pen you have), then I wouldn't use micromesh but a mildly abrasive polish. Before buying anything, you've probably already got some in your house: toothpaste! As long as it isn't one of the gel products, toothpaste has some gentle abrasives. Try just a dab of that on a damp cloth and lightly polish an area to see if it removes the stuff. Rinse clean with water, naturally.

  • Finally, if you are still in the weeds with a stain, you'll need a plastic polish. I would suggest a Novus plastic polish kit. You can see if cleaner #1 will simply clean off the stain, but if not, then a gentle polish with polish #2 followed by #1 should do the trick. I'd be hesitant to use polish #3, and frankly doubt that your stain is that bad.

  • Lastly, when I travel with pens or have to ship something that has ink in it. I always wrap it paper towels so that if there is a leak, the absorbent layers will take up most all of the liquid. I then put it in a ziplock bag to keep any of that from anything else I'm carrying. I'm afraid that while the saran wrap may have protected other contents next to your pen, it may have assisted in bonding the ink stain onto the surface of your pen.

    Back to my initial statement: I have a suspicion that this will come off pretty easily! (and sorry for the wordy response...)
u/babycrusher69 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If you don't go the tempered glass route try buying Novus. It's a great plastic polishing compound. It should be able to get rid of the scratches.

u/copperrein · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Normally I would stabilize stuff with a vacuum chamber (details on my setup here)

With these I didn't bother since I needed them right away. I grabbed some really horrible scraps of the spalted maple and shaped/sanded. Bits were trying to fall off so I grabbed Solarez and did a few coats, curing with my little UV gel manicure light for three minutes between coats. Once that was done I sanded out the lumpy spots and took it to 600 grit. I then polished it with Novus #2 polish...boom, done.

Even with the minimal amount of effort I put into the handles, they turned out amazing. In the future I could spend a little more time and have a perfect finish in less than a day. The resin is what they coat pool sticks and surfboards with so the handles feel like that...not the same as a linseed finish but not totally plastic feeling, either.

u/MeatyBalledSub · 2 pointsr/gaming

Fun fact : You can use plastic polish and a soft cloth or sock to get better results than a buffing machine can offer in most instances. Those machines sometimes make read issues worse. I recommend Novus #2.

Four or so drops on a disc rubbed in with tight circular wipes works wonders.

u/rhetoricity · 2 pointsr/kindle

I wouldn't expect a miracle, but I wonder if Novus Plastic Polish is worth a try? Or—in all serousness here—try polishing it with toothpaste.

u/primitivesoundsystem · 2 pointsr/vinyl

I did high end picture framing for many years and this is the best way to polish acrylic: Novus

u/NefariousPilot · 2 pointsr/watercooling

You can use this to get the plexi top back to it's brand new condition.

u/SnakeyesX · 2 pointsr/oculus
u/exige1981 · 2 pointsr/hockeyplayers

I recommend using a plastic polish. You can do it by hand but if you have a drill, or even better a random orbital buffer it goes pretty quickly.

u/ssl-3 · 2 pointsr/videosurveillance

I've used this on PTZ domes that have gotten scratched up. It worked very well. It was a fuckload of work.

u/nicely11b · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

Sure, I use this set. I start with #1, the blue bottle, and give the plastic a general cleaning, just to make sure there aren't any particles on the plastic that are going to gouge. After that, I use #2 (the red bottle) and a lint free cloth and just rub the hell out of the plastic. You should always try to polish at 90 degree angles so you don't end up with streaks. By that I mean polish in one direction, then polish 90 degrees different from that direction. Once I'm satisfied with that, I give it another polishing with #1.

u/phoenixdigita1 · 2 pointsr/oculus

If you really do have a scratch they can be removed with something like this if you are very very careful.

If you are using glasses you probably should look at getting lens protectors. Links to product in description of images

u/HotdogRacing · 2 pointsr/AnimeFigures

The only one I can vouch for is the Novus plastic polishing compound. It's what they use on stormtrooper armor when it gets worn due to use. There is probably more out there but I haven't researched.

Use the finest polish you can.

u/RodBlaine · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

As mentioned by another modeler you can use polishing pads.

Micro Mesh are good. These pads are also useful, I use them wet and in order. I also cut them into smaller pieces to make polishing easier.

As for a polishing compound, I found this one to be good. It also works well on the lenses of modern 1:1 size cars if you need them to be as bright as new. ;^)

u/mdamaged · 2 pointsr/NZXT

Here, NZXT is not going to help you, they are going to be too busy trying to damage control their HUE+'s frying peoples' PCs.


u/AerowynX · 2 pointsr/Vive

for scratches I highly recommend this stuff used it to get scratches from my Vive

u/Mister_Nathan · 2 pointsr/Nerf

Depending on how deep the scratches are, you could probably use some Meguires' plastic polish to clean it up.

I've also heard good things about this: But have never used it, personally.

u/ripster55 · 2 pointsr/Trackballs

I personally use Novus shine products:

u/emlyman · 2 pointsr/Coachella

Yeah that makes the most sense I think. Thanks for the info! I have one of those external battery packs you can use to jump cars (this one). Normally we use it for phones + some other misc. electronics but I'll have to test it out and see how much I can get out of it charging my laptop.

u/XxChroniclesxX · 2 pointsr/XVcrosstrek

I carry one of these battery buddies/mini compressors. It has a usb plug on it so I can also charge devices as needed. Highly recommend.

STANLEY J5C09 Power Station Jump Starter: 1000 Peak/500 Instant Amps, 120 PSI Air Compressor, Battery Clamps

u/wingwalker · 2 pointsr/AskReddit

Instant jump start battery with air compressor. Never leave home without one.

u/SystemFolder · 2 pointsr/prius

Which is why I carry this. It can not only jump other people, but it can safely jump my Prius as well. It’s actually very easy to jump start a Prius. The only tools required are a jump starter, or jumper cables and another car.

u/TopEchelonEDM · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I've got a few suggestions, mainly for the car.

Wireless Onboard Diagnostics

Android Compatible ($70)

iPhone Compatible ($100)

Remote Starter Kit (Sale: $47 Retail $200) Unless he knows how to install it, I'd advise having it installed professionally.

Car Jumpstart Kit With Air Compressor (Sale: $80 Retail $100)

Dull knives? Make 'em sharp! Knife Sharpener (Sale: $24 Retail: $40)

Finally, since a GoPro is too pricey, try a cheaper version, the Monoprice MHD Action Camera (Sale: $104 Retail: $200) Based on the reviews, it seems like it's perpetually on sale.

I may do more sleuthing, but that's what I got so far!

u/ISheader · 2 pointsr/ToyotaTacoma

I got this one almost 4 years ago now and it's done a great job. It isn't exact in the air pressure reading but I use an external gauge anyway

u/RoflPost · 2 pointsr/twincitiessocial

Are you serious?! I actually live up here, and I could have helped, but nooooooooooooo, somebody had to see this before me and be helpful.

But on a serious note, be extra careful about draining your battery during the winter. A completely dead car battery can freeze solid, rendering it dead forever. Also, a great investment is a portable jump pack. It has saved me endless times, as I am a person who leaves their lights on all the time.

u/Thameus · 2 pointsr/answers

You could create a device like that, but you'd want it to have its own battery to act as a giant DC capacitor, absorbing the current transient created by cranking. This would be much easier on your mains and breakers.

Here: Stanley J5C09 1000 Peak Amp Jump Starter with Built in Compressor

u/elementsofevan · 2 pointsr/preppers

You can get better ones for cheaper.

1000 peak amps

120 psi Air compressor

Led lamp

Made by a company that has a reputation and the product has reviews

$70 (10 bucks cheaper)

They also sell a 700 peak amp one with all the same features which is $40

u/davidverner · 2 pointsr/gopro

My solution is skeleton housing with then use cigarette lighter USB charger plugged into jump battery for car or truck^overkill . You can do a time laps for over a day depending on the size of jump battery you use.

u/Bing803 · 2 pointsr/bonnaroo

We bring a couple portable electric generators ($70 or more on amazon depending on the size/power you want) and use it to power our regular computer speakers or whatever speakers we have. Plus side to that is we can use the generators to power anything we need all weekend and it comes with a jumpstarter for your car and air compressor.

u/Frogblast1 · 2 pointsr/CampingGear

My experience with solar panels is that they are a waste of time, due to the slow charging, even when left directly in the sun all day on a clear day.

For backpacking, a 0.5-1lb battery pack will keep your phone running for two weeks if you are judicious with your use.

For car camping, I use a car battery / compressor / jump start device I bought from costco (something like [this])( It handles flat tires, and it'll recharge any number of mobile gadgets more times than could possibly matter, and do so quickly.

Both solutions were dramatically cheaper than solar panels.

u/ManThatsReallyJewish · 2 pointsr/telescopes

Yeah, I bought something similar to this. It works extremely well for about 6 hours a night. The mount comes with a DC plug out of the box, but for about $30 you can get the AC adapter(most I've seen recommend the 5amp version). Have the 2.5amp model myself, but it's never been used as it was an attempt to remedy my blown board.

The power cable from the Dec motor to the main board and the handset cable are the only RJ9 connectors you'll need to plug in to get it started. From the diagram it's A, B, and E are all. But the other end of B will go into your Dec motor.

u/gauderio · 2 pointsr/teslamotors

Instead of a backup battery, I wonder if this works. I have it on my ICE cars.

u/ludlology · 2 pointsr/phoenix

The one I bought was a traditional 120v compressor for around the house, but I also keep one of these in my car. It's saved me from multiple flats and two dead batteries.

u/chipperjatl · 2 pointsr/VEDC

This is the number one item on my wish list, although I have been looking at this Stanley Here. They both seem to have really good reviews.

Edit: the one I linked to only has DC/USB power. So that may not cover your needs.

u/SearingPhoenix · 2 pointsr/Nerf

I've used this to good effect.

u/Boogieman065 · 2 pointsr/Trackdays

>Is there a good way to go about getting custom graphics for my new bike? The owner had put stuff on the bike that just isn't me, and wanting to find out how to make it my own.

Most cost efficient track bike only owners use rattle cans. Look into spray painting/decals and using 2K clearcoat to seal it. If you're patient, the results can be real close to what professionals will do for you.

>At what point are tire warmers actually necessary? I got a pair with the bike, but haven't ever used them.

They help prevent your tires from going through multiple unnecessary heat cycles. It'll preserve the material. The use of warmers is more important if you're on track slicks than street tires, as track tires are not designed to go through many heat cycles. Track tires also provide very little grip when "cold" to the point where it could be dangerous for the first few laps.

>Im in California and my local tracks are Sonoma Raceway and Thunderhill.

Awesome sauce! I'm in Sacramento and I'll be at Thunderhill September 16th.

u/ngostout · 2 pointsr/DIY

This stuff is pretty good at making damn near anything glossy.

It's also really tough and holds up nicely in weather of all sorts and sun; I use it on my motorcycle builds. Best of all it drys fast. But be warned, it is toxic, so use a mask and do it in a WELL ventilated area. Also make sure you keep the helmet spotless clean before you apply it because it will seal everything in permanently.

u/MatteBlack12 · 2 pointsr/customcontrollers

Looks great! If you want to take it a step further, I recommend using an automotive clear coat like this one. I made my first controller a few days ago, and it made a big difference. Here’s how it came out. (Note that fumes are toxic, hold your breath or use a respirator.)

u/deusnefum · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Filling, sanding, priming (and repeating that process a few times), and then painting and then putting a catalyzed clear coat would make this look like the real deal.

u/stillrusting · 2 pointsr/carmodification

This stuff is slick. Use a respirator.

Spraymax 3680061 2K Clear

u/ExcerptMusic · 2 pointsr/Luthier

Basically. Think of the paint and clear as pieces of clear paper. You just keep stacking it. You have your primer, paint, paint, then clear, then sparkles, then clear, clear, clear, clear.

The more clear, the more depth. Too much clear and it starts to get hazy, unless you wet sand really well between coats.

Also do yourself a HUGE favor and get this spray clear. Once you use the hardener, you have 48 hours to spray more coats which is plenty of time.

u/kousun12 · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

I also spray painted my r6, and used this for the gas tank. It's full 2k clear in a can with hardener that activates when you push the button on the bottom, so you can spill all the gasoline you want on the tank and it'll still be okay! :D

u/repens · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

USC Spray Max 2k High Gloss Clearcoat Aerosol

u/Zombie650 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

This is a catalyzed 2k urethane clear not much different from what you would spray out of a gun. I've used their primer (which worked excellent) but not the clear as of yet ( I use cheap harbor freight hvlp guns). You mix the clear and reducer by pressing a button on the can before you use it (one time use). Pretty space age for rattle can, and will be infinitely more durable than non-catalyzed clears.

u/moelost · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

I used Spray Max 2k urethane clear over regular Rustoleum or Duplicolor acrylic enamel paint. It actually turned out really good. The 2K Urethane spray can really comes out well and ends up looking like a total professional paint job for much, much less.

Note: the urethane clear needs to be sprayed in a very well ventilated area and you MUST wear a protective mask and goggles. The stuff is super toxic. But you'll read all about it because the can is basically one huge warning label.

u/DigDoug_99 · 2 pointsr/Charlotte

Now you're making me wonder if BMWs require a special device. The one I have is this one from Amazon. It works via bluetooth through an app called Torque. It might not work on your car, but we can give it a shot. Is it drivable?

u/the_fourth_wise_man · 2 pointsr/CherokeeXJ
u/loualbano · 2 pointsr/cars

I had bad luck with those little blue ones. They're good because they are small, but for some reason mine couldn't talk to a few cars I tried it on. A friend had a similar experience.

That one is a bit more, but it's worked every time I used it and seems to connect to BT quicker.

u/frettsurfer38 · 2 pointsr/MINI

Another thing you could do is to pick up a bluetooth OBD II plugin and download Torque on your phone (android only I think). You can check the fault code there and it will give you the exact code and some other great information that would serve you well before you buy the car.

All in all, its about a $35 investment, plus you can use it elsewhere.

u/metalsippycup · 2 pointsr/AskLosAngeles

What year is the Van? If it has an OBD2 port, you can purchase this OBD2 Bluetooth Scan Tool and get the app called Torque Pro and follow this video to check emission monitors on your van. You can check your monitor readiness and can go in to get it tested when all monitors are ready. Or you can use the scan tool and app to diagnose what is causing the problem. Might be a lazy O2 sensor.

u/MetalHead310 · 2 pointsr/DIY

I didnt read your specific problem but I know for a FACT Deoxit is the gold standard for cleaning electric components. I have used it on electric guitars and vintage stereo receivers with great results.

u/laydros · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Pioneer Andrew Jones SP-BS22 for $140 and a craigslist or thriftstore integrated amp or reciever with the other $60.

Cheapest deals will be 70's Japanese stuff. Kenwood, Pioneer, Teac, and a lot of others I can't think of off the top of my head.

Then go to Amazon and get some Deoxit to spray on the knobs and switches every couple of years. This will knock off any corrosion on the controls to keep you from getting scratchy knobs or loosing channels.

u/TophatMcMonocle · 2 pointsr/vinyl

Glad to assist. I'm a tremendous fan of the suspended Pioneers of that specific vintage, and have two PL-630s and a PL-600 in my turntable collection that I've restored as needed. I don't sign up for that kind of work without feeling some love for the design.

Once you're at a level of turntable that precludes obvious audible misbehaviors, like unsteady speed, noisy drives, or insufficient weight and deadness to combat vibration feedback, then probably 95% of the sound you get will be cartridge dependent. Switch your carts and the Pioneer will be the warmer one.

Failure of the tonearm to move and a whirring sound from the small motor = bad tonearm belt. Sometimes it'll just be sluggish or it'll squeal, but the fix is the same.

This is the cleaner you need. The one you linked was a cleaning solution, but this is a contact cleaner. (Less diluted.)
I fixed my stuck button by simply unplugging the deck and spraying in the tiny gaps around the button, and working it over and over until it freed up. I had to pry it up at first until the DeoxIT started doing its thing. In my experience it's a fix that'll last for many years. If that doesn't do it, there are people over at who've disassembled the buttons, and a strong search will take you to that topic. I can help you get there, because if there's anything restoring turntables has taught me, it's how to search the shit out of Audio Karma and Vinyl Engine for those who've been there before.

Any electronics repair shop with an old experienced guy is a good bet. It would take some calling around and perhaps a half-day drive. There aren't many turntable repair shops left, if any. If you're handy and can wield a soldering iron when the chips are down, I'll bet you can fix it. I did my first TT restoration with nothing but basic auto mechanic experience and I got through it. If you enjoy this sort of thing, you'll find working on the Pioneer rewarding due to the quality and cleverness of the design. It will quickly become apparent why it sold for twice the money of the Dual. The $400 it cost then is $1200 in today's money, and that was a mass production price. Aluminum plinth with no plastic in sight. Booyaaa.

If the platter and armboard move at all, your transit screws have been removed. The Japanese used short suspension travel, whereas the Brits and the Germans favored Baja trophy truck suspension. All that matters is that it is truly suspended during normal use, and not up against either the high or low limits. If it is, it can be adjusted.

u/Narwahl_Whisperer · 2 pointsr/prius

You could try this:


get control contact cleaner (not eyeglass contact cleaner- this stuff is meant for electronics) like this


(do this stuff with the car off)


remove the volume knob.


spray contact cleaner where the twist part of the volume control meets the rest of the car


spin the volume knob a lot


replace knob


repeat as necessary. Try to keep the contact cleaner out of your cd player. Also, I would wear plastic gloves. edit: maybe even shield the area with a rag- the contact cleaner almost always splashes back, this stuff sprays way harder than it needs to. I've got it in my eye more than once, even with glasses on.

u/tehsma · 2 pointsr/edmproduction

If the volume (trim) knob on the back of the monitors is a potentiometer, which it likely is, perhaps it is a bit corroded. Potentiometers have copper contacts which oxidize.

This was problematic in my Mackie HR824 monitors- The Frequency response was compromised in one of them, due to this corrosion. You could tell because, when you adjusted the volume knob while a song was playing, you could hear scratchiness, and certain freqs would fade in and out. I Fixed it by spraying a small amount of deoxit around the edges of the potentiometer (WHILE THE UNIT WAS OFF), and then rotating the knob to its two extremes a few times to clean off the gunk. Problem solved.

If you don't hear dips in volume or scratchiness when you adjust the volume (trim) knob while sound is playing, then I don't think its an oxidation problem.

Another point where this can happen is in the output stage of your audio interface. In some cheaper or defective units, the outputs may not be properly balanced, leading to asymmetrical volume response. And still another: The cables themselves. I can imagine that one cable may have a poor connection and suffer some signal loss, so its worth ruling that out as well.

u/major_space · 2 pointsr/scooters

If that's the case this stuff solves every problem I have ever had.

u/petelp · 2 pointsr/Roku

This problem sounds like you may have some dirty or oxidized contacts on your hdmi ports and/or plugs, which can definitely cause the symptoms you're seeing.

Whenever you remove a plug and plug it in again the friction of that action does a little cleaning, which would explain the temporary improvement you see when you do that.

Removing the plug and plugging it in (say 20 times in a row) may make your problem disappear for a much longer time. However, that action, preceded by spraying "contact cleaner spray" into both the hdmi ports and the hdmi plugs, will provide the best solution. (Assuming that dirty/oxidized contacts are the source of your problem.)

I do think that's like to be the answer. I had similar problems years ago, and the solution I described has kept me problem free ever since, without needing to repeat the process.

u/BrewerGlyph · 2 pointsr/GuitarAmps

I was able to solve this by removing the tubes and using DeoxIT on the pins. Careful not to get any on the glass; it will remove the ink markings. Some fine sandpaper on the pins might help, as well.

u/Badger68 · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Deoxit D5 is the best contact cleaner for dirty pots. I tried substitutes (radio shack...) and they just don't cut the mustard. I haven't cleaned a twin, but on other amps and guitars I've gotten it to work without taking the chassis out. Turn the amp off, spray a good amount between the knob and the amp. Turn the knob back and forth a few times and leave it to dry for a minute or two. Power it on and see if it worked.

u/dabneyd79 · 2 pointsr/simracing

First thing is the "registers values when it is not even being engaged." issue. You need to get some Caig Deoxit to clean the potentiometers. That will resolve that issue. I'm not sure you'll be happy with not hard mounting the pedals if you have a really heavy brake pedal; I know I wouldn't be.

u/isanyonekeepingtrack · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

First, make sure you're using Ammonia/VOC free glass cleaner. It's much less likely to screw up your electronics, or your nice HDTV screen.

If it's just the contacts on the SD card reader, you can try cleaning it with alcohol like said. Better would be to purchase an Electronics Contact Cleaner and see if you can revive it that way.

u/weirdal1968 · 2 pointsr/vintageaudio

There are tiny slots in the EQ sliders where you would spray the contact cleaner order Deoxit D5 on Amazon. Use the link below to learn how to use it to clean the volume control.

u/dragonslovetacos2 · 2 pointsr/Turntablists

Hosa D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz. I love you too.

Source: electronics technician

u/tim404 · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

Along these lines: since you're going to the trouble of pulling the dash apart and getting to the back, you should hit your electrical connections with some contact cleaner to help prevent this from happening in the future.

u/Addy711 · 2 pointsr/simracing

If you can get a part number or the specs you may find it on or

Also you may be able to revive your old pot if it's just jittery or spiky with DeoxIT D5

u/electrictrumpet · 2 pointsr/vintageaudio

Sheesh, actually I just checked and it is like $15 a can now, price must've gone way up. I bought mine like 5+ years ago and it's still got plenty left but I have used it on lots of stuff.

u/atetuna · 2 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

I was able to read the signs for the streets on the corners around my neighborhood at night for the first time. The beam pattern kicks up to the right, and so do HID projectors, which is done so signs like that can be read. I used to bring a custom made 5000 lumen flashlight with me to shine at signs like that, but I won't need to do that anymore. That's all I can tell you so far. I literally only have about five miles with them so far, and no highway driving yet. Deer are a big concern for me too, so I'll be paying close attention to that when I drive outside of town at night.

Yes, glass lens.

Some people have had issues with the relays that come with the Putco harness, so I ordered a couple spares. Here's the products I ordered. All from Amazon, all with Prime shipping. Unfortunately some of the packages arrived in three days instead of two, but that should still give you plenty of time for your trip.

Hella 55/100W bulbs
IPF H4 housings
Pilot relays
Putco harness

This video can help tell you where to run the harness. Btw, the video says it, but there's a spare plug that goes into the old harness bulb socket. All it does is get the signal to flip on the low or high beams.

One extra thing I did was spray all the contacts with Deoxit to get a cleaner connection and prevent corrosion.

u/werteen1 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Thanks for answering my questions. I guess I need to order 20 more Zilent switches since that's the minimum order.

> Krytox 106

I'm only able to find a bottle on Amazon for $235 bucks. Can you link somewhere that has a smaller amount?

> dielectric grease

Is this the correct product?

u/enomele · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

In the Nathan Kim stabilizer lube video he uses Permatex 22058 Dielectric grease for Metal on Plastic scenario. I read somewhere on Reddit someone said that he since switched to using Kyrtox 205 in the the whole stabilizer tho.

I found some Permatex 22058 on Amazon UK. Not sure if that's expensive, I think it's roughly how much I paid in US. I do put some Krytox or Tribosys on the plastic on plastic parts tho.

u/Veryfancydoily · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

This is good for stabs (not switches) and is usually at places like AutoZone if you want to get it locally and not order online.

u/lesziii · 2 pointsr/keyboards

This stuff does work but makes dries out rather easily.
I'd push you down the way of this.
Dielectric Grease|Permatex 22058:

This is what you should be using as it's meant for electronic purposes. Not all multi-purpose greases are going to work well with switches and it really wouldn't be worth the risk.

u/fizzymynizzy · 2 pointsr/hondafit

It is a non conductive grease that prevent rust, oxidation, dirt, and corrosion. "Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up Grease protects electrical connections and wiring from salt, dirt and corrosion. " this is the one I use Scotty Kilmer also uses it . I use it it for the headlights, turn signal, side markers, fog lights, I also use it on the dome map lights, and I put it on 1 fuse blade, and I put some on the battery terminal. I do recommend getting disposable gloves. I wear XL winter gloves. But the disposable is smaller. Read the reviews first. People might might say get one size higher. So next time I will get XXL gloves.

u/RectangularRug · 2 pointsr/subaru

My battery and terminals just looked like that and cleaned it up last weekend.

Take the battery off and use hot water to clean most of the battery up.

Used hot water on my terminals as well.

After that i used a hot water/baking soda mix to neutralize the acid.

Bought a few things off amazon as well:

The dielectric grease should help it from getting moisture and corrosion on it again.

u/_circa84 · 2 pointsr/f150

I would put some dielectric grease on all the connectors, it's fast and cheap. It's possible you just have bad connection from grim on them or corrosion over time and the new bulbs touching the contacts on a bit different part. That bad connection could have also made them fail prematurely too.

Can usually find at automotive places for a few bucks. Not sure why so expensive on

u/ponchofreedo · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards you go. finish line comes in the syringe, which makes it easy to apply some to the stabilizer housing so you can brush it. taeha types does a good video using this grease combo.

finish line -
permatex -

u/GobHoblin87 · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

Update: After much research and unfruitful trips to Lowes and Walmart, I finally found the right grease. Pure silicone grease but under the name dielectric grease, and at a great price ($5 for 3oz.)

u/poochzag · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I made the same mistake as you in the past. The oil works ok for the plastic-plastic contacts of the stabilizers though. But for lubing the bar, a thicker dialetric grease is ideal

The superlube dialetric grease you linked is probably fine. This is the exact one I use though, as recommended by Nathan Kim

u/Uberhypnotoad · 2 pointsr/Survival

For the car, get something that can smash the window safely and cut a seatbelt.

For a knife, I, personally, would not go with anything swiss army. If you want a multitool, then a leatherman or gerber tend to be more useful. (primarily pliers rather than primarily knife) Ideally, I'd recommend a simple non-folding full-hilt knife for the blade component. Hinges are a common point of failure and when you're trying to rely on your blade, the last thing you want is for it to break off, or worse, fold onto your hand. Fixed blades are more reliable and safer to use.

u/fuzzby · 2 pointsr/JusticePorn

They are made of similar types of glass but the thickness and curve will be different. Front wind shields are made of laminate glass and the rest of the windows are made of tempered glass. Also, a fixed and curved glass will have significantly more structural integrity than a movable flat one.

It only looks like it comes apart easily because the method used to break it could only be accomplished with a partially open window. With regards to the safety in breaking auto glass in emergency situations I highly recommend having one of these in your glove compartment:

u/ltx · 2 pointsr/fffffffuuuuuuuuuuuu

Emergency hammer is your friend in this situation.

u/sageroux · 2 pointsr/news

I literally have a glass shattering + seatbelt cutter tool in my console. I bought it when I discovered I could not easily detach my car's headrests. $15 was a low price for my own peace of mind.

u/oryxic · 2 pointsr/WTF

Are you being facetious, or do you really think you can break a car window with your bare hands, Rambo? From personal experience, car windows are tough, and I had to really work at it to crack one with a tire iron. The average person can't just punch it and have it fall apart. The glass is tempered.

That's why they make these suckers for if you're in an accident and trapped in your car:

u/infinitree · 2 pointsr/videos

I clicked the link, read the description, and figured I'd read the comments before proceeding. I can't as deep of a mind-fuck as everyone is describing, right now. One good thing has come from this, though. My Amazon cart now has a vehicle fire extinguisher queued up for purchase. My wife and I already have the LifeHammer. Can't believe I never thought of getting a fire extinguisher.

u/TheRipePunani · 2 pointsr/TheVampireDiaries

Well, by that logic (not that yours is flawed or anything, you have a valid point) Matt should have just bought a Lifehammer and none of this would have happened.

PSA: Which by the way, if you don't have a Lifehammer in your vehicle, please buy one. It could mean the difference in the event you crash in a body of water. You won't have vampire blood to bring you back once you're gone.

No, I don't work for Lifehammer.

u/Elgand · 2 pointsr/PS4

I don't intend to contradict the above answer, because it is certainly a viable and good solution. I would go one step further and purchase electric contact cleaner.

This is what I use

This contains no water and will clean it up with no issue. It is more expensive, but I have been happy to have it on more than one occasion. Make sure you don't get any on the joysticks though, it leaves a white residue on soft plastic. The residue can easily be cleaned, but it is annoying.

u/Dewey_the_25U · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Probably, you can take it apart and see if there's any corrosion and use it a little bit of contact cleaner with a brush to remove it.



I use the brush and contact cleaner at work whenever components get wet and have started coating what I can with a Nonconformal Silicon Coating to try and save me some of the headache. It's not ideal, but yey. =/

u/rotopenguin · 2 pointsr/thinkpad

I have had a memory socket go bad once, it happens. It could also be some crap on a contact. Worth trying some contact cleaner (get a can, you'll find other places to use it), gently spritz down a dimm edge, and work it in and out a bit. Give the stuff a little time to dry off before turning your system on again.


u/moondawg25 · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner -11 Wt Oz --- what I use. Lasted me a year now and pretty good use. Still feels full.

u/yoyomah20 · 2 pointsr/fordfusion

to get to the camera you need to remove the lining on the inside of the trunk (the tailgate, movable piece). You have to remove both tail lights attached to the movable piece of trunk (3 11mm bolts each), then remove the long piece of body that stretches between the tail lights under the ford logo. This is held in by 4 10mm bolts that can be seen through the little openings in the metal (you'll know what I am talking about once you get this far). Then you can pull on the long piece of bodywork that the camera and trunk release button are attached to. Then you should have access to the camera. If its working about 30% of the time, it could be a loose or dirty connector. I'd pick up some electronics cleaner (such as this) at walmart and spray the connections and see if that helps. Good luck!

u/shiny_roc · 2 pointsr/Dell
  1. Don't put it on the fridge. Condensation is bad for electronics.
  2. Don't use a hair-dryer because that will just bake on all of the non-water components of your coffee.
  3. If you have accidental damage coverage in your warranty and are still within the warranty period, invoke it.
  4. If you don't have accident coverage or are outside the warranty period, you can get Dell to repair it for you, but it might cost as much as buying a new laptop.
  5. You can try taking the whole thing apart and cleaning anything that has coffee on it with electronics cleaner and a lint-free cloth. Dell's service manuals are pretty easy to follow. If it still doesn't work after cleaning, you're probably going to need to replace the motherboard and anything else that got coffee damage.
  6. Get a spill-free coffee thermos.
u/Pieman492 · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Have you tried using Electronic Contact Cleaner (somthing like this)? It's like some sort of magic drift fixing fluid. Just use the nozzle that comes with it, put it underneath the thin rubber sheet between the stick and the inside of the joycon and spray. Once I did this and after it dried the single worst case of joystick drift I've ever seen in my life was fixed.

u/AlmightyDog · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I had a similar issue. Not sure what controller you have, but on mine, a Logitech F710, the sticks are not digital, they are analog potentiometers.

Basically its a variable resistor. It has the disadvantage of mechanical arm that sweeps against a surface to vary the voltage output. This contact point can become dirty, or in extreme cases, wear off.

I took mine apart, and even though I couldn't open up the potentiometer to inspect it, there were enough gaps in the case of the thing that I could get a squirt or two of electrical contact cleaner into it, and then rotate the stick around to "scrub" off any dirty spots on the arm/surface contact point. It has worked fine now for over a year.

This is what I used.... found it at a auto parts store near by, but you should be able to find it at some hardware stores or online:

Just look up your controller's model number and "teardown" or "repair" on youtube, and if its a popular enough controller, there should be tons of videos on how to take it apart safely.

u/Tanuki-te · 2 pointsr/howto

You need this: or a similar product.

There are little particles of dust between the male and female parts of the jack, which prevent them from making a good connection on one side, and therefore lowers the volume by increased resistance in the circuit. Just spray a little in the hole occasionally, and wipe the jack. If that doesn't fix it, and it's not a software issue, then you likely have some of the wire strands breaking on one side, which increases resistance on that side and lowers the volume. This usually happens right near the jack where you do the most bending. Sometimes you can fix that by moving the jack up a few inches, but it isn't necessarily easy, and you have to know how to solder wires. An electronics repair shop can do it, but it may not be worth the cost.

u/maultify · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Get some electrical contact cleaner (I used this), spray a little bit in each side, roll/click it a couple times, wait for a half an hour. Mine's been working flawless since. I received a replacement and it developed the same issue, but this fix works.

u/NESCollecta · 2 pointsr/nes

I don't like using Brasso unless it's my last option. It definitely can leave a residue.

Pop open the cart and clean the contacts with fast evaporating contact cleaner. Set the PCB on a spongy mousepad and use a high polymer white eraser to loosen up the gunk.

u/verywise · 2 pointsr/ender3

I picked up mine from a RC hobby store, and it's branded for RC stuff:

T. A. Emerald Performance Plus 4, TAE4200

I don't really have a preference for this brand. I'd just get something like this, since they are all pretty similar:

u/Myname345 · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Have you tried contact spray? It has worked for a lot of people. Blast it with this stuff

u/mikey2style · 2 pointsr/AstroGaming

Like this?

CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner -11 Wt Oz

First ive heard of this but looks like it has other uses.

Thanks for the tip!

u/HalifaxSamuels · 2 pointsr/oneplus

You could always attempt to fix it yourself. Here's two methods to basically try the same thing; the thorough and proper method, and then quick and dirty (and easier) method. No promising this will definitely fix it, but it's what I would do first in your case.

If you're comfortable disassembling the phone (iFixit has great disassembly guides) you could always take the switch out and thoroughly clean it with something like this by basically spraying in in to the switch, switching it all the way up and down a number of times, and repeating that two-step a few more times. Give it a little blast of compressed air to help it dry (that stuff already dries fast but may as well help it out) and reinstall it once it's dry. If you dropped it in water there's likely some residue in the switch that's shorting it in one position.

Optional method if you really don't want to take it apart: take a few minutes and just slide the switch all the way up and down a whole lot. If there's residue it might scrape it clean. Both of these processes are assuming the contacts inside the switch aren't corroded, in which case it definitely would have to be replaced.

u/JustynS · 2 pointsr/consolerepair

That's how they're supposed to look, don't worry. The pins don't look corroded, so if you've already cleaned them with alcohol, try to use contact cleaner, but if that doesn't work, than polishing them with Brasso will usually do the trick.

But, I do t think the pins are the problem, I took a closer look at your traces and there seems to be two black spots on #9 that could possibly be a break in the traces. Try and check the conductivity if you have a multimeter.

u/darklynx4 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

It would require complete disassembly of the psu and a cleaning of every component.

The best cleaner is something like quick drying CRC contact/electronic cleaner. I've used this many time, and it works really well.

u/SomeNoob1306 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Get one of these If you don't have a place where you can demo them.

u/cweagans · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Start by choosing what kind of switches you want, and then find a keyboard that has those switches. I'd recommend grabbing one of these: It's just a row of switches on a plate so that you can hear/feel each one before you commit to an entire keyboard.

For Cherry switches (which is what that WASD tester has), you'll probably want non-clicky, which means that anything other than green or blue is a good option. Clears and browns have a small bump that you can feel as you press the key, and then red and black are just linear switches that you have to bottom out to get them to activate. There's some difference on the amount of force required to press each key too (greens are "heavier" than blues, clears > brows, black > red), so take that into account.

When you land on a switch, WASD Keyboards has a decent selection with any of the aforementioned switches.

Personally, if I couldn't have clicky switches (I like blues and greens), I'd go with clears. They're about as silent as you can get, especially if you add the O rings on the stems ( - basically, you lift off the key cap, put the o ring on the keycap stem, and then put the keycap back on. Repeat for all your keys. They prevent the keys from bottoming out and making a louder sound. Useful if you type aggressively with purpose like I do)

u/XrinkuG · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

This might not be exactly what you're looking for, but there are things like this that will let you test the switches and see if you like the feel. Beyond that, do any friends have a mechanical keyboard?

u/karn_evil · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I have browns, and I quite like them. I don't have a ton of experience on mech keyboards though (only other one was a model m which is quite different from browns.)

If you are unsure, there are test blocks you can get that have different types of switches on them.

u/fatpolomanjr · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Upvoted anyone that said to get a switch tester. At the bare minimum one with the basic cherry switches (red, blue, black, clear, green). Link. I was fortunate to mess with my cousin's Brown switches to immediately discover I hate browns.

Then you can get a hold of Zealios, Mod-x, Matias/Alps, etc. switches to test out once your mechanical keyboard obsession has taken root and grown.

u/Boom- · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

That looks like an awesome board, looks like it even comes with mouse control on the keyboard which is always a neat thing to see. What cherry switches are you going to grab? You can always grab a switch tester and decide after

Although I think that'd be called a 60%, I think 40% don't have the top number row.

u/DeathPro · 2 pointsr/gaming

I had an MX Blue keyboard for about 3 months until I just couldn't stand it anymore so I bought the same one but with browns and I love it so much the perfect amount of resistance and noise.

Here's a link to the key tester I have.

There are others with more or less keys but this one is pretty good.

u/SaltedKittyBits · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

It's all preference man. Browns are non-linear which is a preference for me in that I do a lot of typing and gaming. I'd order something like this before you purchase a new keyboard.

I certainly wish I had.

u/ZappaBeefheart · 2 pointsr/Eugene

Before dropping a lot of money on a nice keyboard, get a sample set of switches to see what your preference is.

The link below includes a test set of 6 Different Cherry MX Switches: Cherry MX Green, Cherry MX Clear, Cherry MX Red, Cherry MX Black, Cherry MX Brown, and Cherry MX Blue.

u/Audaxon · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Corsair K70 RGB can be customized using their software to get a purple backlighting effect. It's a gaming keyboard though, so it's built like a tank and a little bulkier.

Ducky Shines can have purple led backlights. They are a little more elegant for an office as well.

Cherry MX Brown switches (no click when you type, just a bump) for an office, Cherry MX Blues (audible click sound) for home. IMO, Blues are more fun.

Cheaper switches more or less follow the same color code, though a switch tester could help you decide what you like

u/powermad80 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Various switches have certain things they're inherently a little bit better for (red switches for gaming, blues for typing, etc.) but it's entirely down to personal preference. You can read up on the wiki about what each switch is like, but the best thing you can do is buy a cherry mx switch tester, that'll let you try out each of the most common switches so you can get an idea of what kind you like.

If you have any stores in the area you can go to that sell mechanicals though, the best thing is to go there and try a bunch out yourself.

Based on the fact that you both play Osu and have other people around you though, you probably won't want the exceptionally loud blue switches.

u/KillAura · 2 pointsr/HelloInternet

Before you buy any switches, I recommend you purchase a tester set or go to a PC store to try them out. Feeling it in person can be completely different from reading about them online and your keyboard can last ages so it's important to have switches you'll like.

u/TransientBananaBread · 2 pointsr/buildapc

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | Intel Core i7-7700 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor | $308.74 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | ASRock B250 Pro4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $93.98 @ Newegg
Memory | Team Elite Plus 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $95.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial MX300 275GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $89.88 @ OutletPC
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.33 @ OutletPC
Video Card | MSI Radeon RX 480 8GB ARMOR 8G OC Video Card | $219.99 @ Amazon
Case | Fractal Design Define C ATX Mid Tower Case | $79.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA G3 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $79.99 @ Jet
Wireless Network Adapter | Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I REV 4.2 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $29.99 @ SuperBiiz
Monitor | LG Neo Blade III 24.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $249.00 @ B&H
Keyboard | Glorious PC Gaming Race Glorious Gaming Wired Gaming Keyboard | $99.99 @ Amazon
Mouse | Logitech G502 Wired Optical Mouse | $57.98 @ Amazon
Speakers | Logitech Z200 0W 2ch Speakers | $20.99 @ Best Buy
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1475.84
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-02-10 20:52 EST-0500 |


  • If you are planning on seriously getting into animation or rendering, you will want an i7 for the hyper threading. If you stick with the 7600K though, you will need to get a Z270 motherboard or you risk getting a motherboard whose BIOS needs to be updated to use the 7600K. Gave you a locked 7700 and changed the MOBO and removed the cooler (7700 comes with one).

  • An RX 480 will do 1080p 60 FPS just fine and save you quite a bit of money.

  • Since you are more focused on productivity, I gave you a case with no window and noise dampening insulation. If you need a lot of storage space, get the R5.

  • 550W is plenty for the build.

    For keyboards, it really comes down to personal preference with all the options available. See if you have a local shop that has some mechanical keyboards you can try (Best Buy might have some as well). If that isn't an option, buy a switch tester to try and get an idea what kind of feel you want on your keyboard.

    I don't know enough to comment on the monitor.
u/Chouzetsu · 2 pointsr/streetwear

If you're ever unsure about which switch you can always get a switch tester. There's this one which has 6 different Cherry switches to sample but no Topre. Cooler Master dropped one that included a Topre switch a few months ago on Massdrop, that's the one I got. Maybe they'll do it again

u/boardingtheplane · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Yeah they sell them on Amazon for around $10-20. Worth it if you know you'll be interested in acquiring more/customizing.

Here's an example of a decent Switch Tester. Even comes with O-rings! You can try a few of them out on your board now to see if you like the dampening.

I noticed you spelled customization with British English, so here's one I found on Amazon UK.

u/zaxfee · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Correct. Here is a link to one on amazon for $16.

I have gone through about 4 keyboards just trying new switches. I later found these and for $16 it would have saved me some cash.

u/adino24 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

You can test it yourself with one of This from Amazon
there is a lot of options on eBay

This way you will fill most of the Cherry MX Switches.

There is a lot other switches brands, But I have no experience with them

u/Granpire · 2 pointsr/DotA2

You should be asking over at /r/MechanicalKeyboards/, not /r/dota2.

The benefits of mechanical keyboards are mostly comfort and feel, it sounds like you're overestimating the usefulness of them. They will not make your clicking/searching 3 times more efficient. Unlike a gaming mouse, the benefits of a mechanical keyboard for gaming will be minimal at best.

If you're not sure what switches you want, something like this switch tester might be up your alley. If noise is an issue, Cherry MX Browns sound good for you. They're low stiffness and have a tactile bump but no click, which makes them good for typing.

Even non-clicky mechanical switches will always make noise when they bottom out, so you might want to invest in some O-Ring noise dampeners.

u/ComputerMystic · 2 pointsr/pics

Honestly, just grab one of these to get a feel for how each switch feels / sounds, then order a keyboard online with your preferred switch type.

u/fuegotown · 2 pointsr/AskProgramming

I switched to mechanical a few years back and won't go back to dome keys. I have a cherry blue at work and a brown at home. Both from Cooler Master. They are relatively cheap for what you get. The model is the Quick Fire Rapid. It says "Gaming Keyboard" but I use them mostly for programming and gaming.

If you are going to go mechanical, I'd recommend buying one of those tester boards with one of each switch on it like this

I found both of my keyboards on amazon. Each was less than $80 US.

u/PM_ME_UR_LAB_REPORT · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I'm using Cherry MX browns right now. I was using a keyboard with blues for a while, but I wanted to go for something a bit quieter and with a lower actuation force (it's a small difference in force but I don't know, it definitely makes a difference for me).

Before I made the change I bought this so I could try the different kinds of Cherry switches. It was really helpful, I feel like there's really no substitute for feeling the differences between the switches yourself!