Best aviation electronics according to redditors
We found 121 Reddit comments discussing the best aviation electronics. We ranked the 56 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 121 Reddit comments discussing the best aviation electronics. We ranked the 56 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
If that's the same one they use on stage They're aviation headsets for the noise cancellation. They are on Amazon but pricy.
I believe its these
https://www.amazon.com/David-Clark-H10-13-4-Aviation-Headset/dp/B0011Z9PM2/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=david+clark+aircraft+headset&qid=1572835867&sr=8-4
Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!
Here are your smile-ified links:
https://smile.amazon.com/Rugged-Air-RA200-General-Aviation/dp/B01A6KE0RC/ref=sr_1_1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0076N9LM2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
---
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They are cheap, but if you get the gel ear seals they are actually very comfortable. RuggedAir RA200s. Have 3 sets for passengers, have gone on some 5 hour XC's and no complaints. I also used this until I got my PPL and got some Bose X's.
https://www.amazon.com/Rugged-Air-RA200-General-Aviation/dp/B01A6KE0RC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502381853&sr=8-1&keywords=ra200
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0076N9LM2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I keep the following on my "ASA IFR kneeboard" (which itself has the IFR quick reference stuff):
At long last I can join the ranks of pilots shamelessly decorating their homes with FAA charts. For me only being a couple years in, it's all about the journey and so without a doubt I had to do a "Places I've flown" map. I found this one on Amazon and the print quality is just as good as real sectionals & TACs.
Clearly I have quite a few horizons to expand on – and I'm hoping to move on from renting in part so I can add new pins even faster. Next primary objectives:
This on has a big recomendation from pilots:
Flyboys
I would be sure to get one that has ring holes so you can use plastic see-through leaflets to hold various information. I keep everything from personal notes to diagrams of tower signal lights, incase I forget one. I also am able to attach my Samsung tablet on top of it.
When you take your flight test, your DPE will probably frown if you don't have one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CBJ29C4
I got this headset in June for my PPL training. It was cheap, worked great, and got me through my whole training regimen, including my long XC's.
I gifted myself A20's for finishing my checkride. But I carry those with me for passengers, since they're that good.
I mean, I guess it depends on your definition of an "expensive item", but those headphones are $1100.
I'm doing the same thing as you essentially. Go with a headset that you will be giving a future passenger that you probably care about in the future, but that don't need A20s..
For me it's the David Clarks:
David Clark H10-13.4 Aviation Headset
I don't know if there is a more popular GA headset. It's also known for its build quality, longevity and is going to be more than enough for any future passengers.
This particular chart, ~map~, was purchased from Amazon
Get one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/ASA-Airman-Knowledge-Testing-Supplement/dp/B01K0L2WOA/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=airman+testing+supplement&qid=1562214524&s=gateway&sr=8-1
Same book you’ll have on the actual test. You’ll be happy you saw it for practice first.
Got myself a DC H10 13.4 headset just before I started training. I figured cost-wise it would be around the same to get a headset that will last a while (or go through a few cheap headsets). I have had nothing but great times with this headset.
It's tough since it's such a big hole and not just a rip...I think you could probably use a leather/vinyl repair kit and a piece of pleather/vinyl that you cut to mostly fill the hole that has worn away, you'd just have to be patient with it.
Or if you don't want to fuss with them too much, you could try something like these. I don't know if they would be uncomfortable or change the sound output, but they're cheap enough that they may be worth a shot.
Here's a few tips that might help you:
Bonus: Instead of eating three times a day, eat two! One less meal per day equals to a gallon of fuel, in a month it equals an hour of a Cessna's 172 wet rent and with the weight loss, your weight and balance sheets will come nicely!
=D
Faro ANR. I own several pair.
www.amzn.com/B0060NOZO8
This is what I use for my GoPro Hero 4, works great.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAQHYRG/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_mH1VDbGGC06K6
If you have a newer gopro that takes USB, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OP8RYY8/ref=asc_df_B00OP8RYY85180521/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B00OP8RYY8&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167139076547&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9239511459837801797&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9073489&hvtargid=pla-307515190013
If you just need a mini cable, https://www.amazon.com/Nflightcam-Smartphone-Aircraft-Audio-Cable/dp/B00HQMLFWC/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506026745&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=nflightcam&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/David-Clark-H10-13-4-Aviation-Headset/dp/B0011Z9PM2
Consider buying a quality logbook that you could use for several years in case you flying and want to continue.
The Standard Pilot Log (Navy Blue): ASA-SP-57 (Standard Pilot Logbooks) https://www.amazon.com/dp/1560273305/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_st3RDbW0EPKZE
No, the Hero isn't designed for receiving bluetooth audio and the headset isn't designed to send it.
I'm using this cable with a hero 4, and it's supposed to work with a 3+ as well.
Bonus: It has a power input that you can plug into an extra USB battery to get extended recording time.
I actually think it's a legit question. Some of us just don't have a few thousand dollars lying around for a bunch of headsets you might use a few times per year. People make it sound like having to wear sub $300 headsets is like being repeatedly punched in the head by an angry Bose salesman. That or they're flying melons around.
On my first flight I wore a ten year old run-down telex headset. It worked, I couldn't have cared less. For flight school I got a $80 off brand headset and it works just fine. I've also flown with a pair of Zulus and A20s, and yes they are very nice, but do I need them? Nah. I totally agree that they can really make a difference if you fly for hours every time you go up, but for a casual VFR idiot like me, I'd much rather spend that money on flying. Then upon getting the certificate someone gifted us an H10, very nice, but since then I've flown passengers with them, the cheapo off-brands, and sometimes even with a borrowed set of A20s, and people were kinda mostly focused on the fact they're being flown around and having a great time, and nobody's really complained about clamping force on headsets.
A friend of mine bought three sets of those for himself and his family, plus a bag of cloth headphone covers so he doesn't have to clean them up every time he's flying in summer. I've flown with them too, they're quite good. And again, IMO "quite good" is good enough for an hour of sightseeing, people will focus on what's going on outside rather than intercom quality or head clamping force.
I also agree that passenger comfort is very important, but then again I reckon you make them much more comfortable by being slow and deliberate, explaining what's going on, prepare them for everything that's happening and will be happening rather than making sure they're wearing the most expensive gear on the market.
I fly the DA40 but I'm not currently using an EFB. The issue is probably lap space due to the center stick. I actually can't use a normal sized kneeboard because it interferes with the stick or throttle. So you could use the ipad but keeping it on your lap the whole time probably won't happen.
Instead I took an old ipod exercise arm band, sewed some velcro (loop side) to it and this goes around my right thigh. Then I took a small clip board and put the hook side on the back. This lets me easily use the board when I need it and store it away when not.
"Stratux Velcro" in amazon search...
Stratux Strap Kit with Rubber Bumpers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0777KFCHD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8bhtDbNMS3YN5
They're aviation headsets but I would think the closest in feel would be the Hyperx Cloud 2.
https://www.amazon.com/David-Clark-H10-13-4-Aviation-Headset/dp/B0011Z9PM2
For audio: https://www.amazon.com/Nflightcam-Audio-Solution-GoPro-Hero5/dp/B01MT3Q50Y/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2GBGFS6GTVKIM&keywords=aviation+gopro+audio&qid=1550540782&s=gateway&sprefix=aviation+gopro%2Caps%2C297&sr=8-2
​
For mounting, my school has the flat adhesive mounts located on the ceiling: https://shop.gopro.com/mounts/curved-plus-flat-adhesive-mounts/AACFT-001.html
The ice has melted and it's time for many adventures in 2018!
Just picked up two more Rugged Air RA200 Black General Aviation Pilot Headsets for pax #5 and #6. I now have headsets for both children + adults in the 210. I had purchased Rugged Air RA250 Red General Aviation Child Headsets and they have worked out great!
Purchased a 15 cu ft. SkyOx dual regulator O2 system with two cannulas from Sportys. My wife is pregnant and we thought we would be conservative and keep her on O2 on the next few trips. Thought why not get a dual in case I want a sip. I get mild headaches after long trips at altitude.
I need to get two more SpaceX luggage tags!
I'm using Foreflight on a iPad Mini 4 with GPS + Cellular. Pair that with a Stratus 2s and it's a great way to add a safety margin. I use the Boss A20 (without bluetooth) and my wife uses my old Dave Clarks. I carry a ACR PLB-375 ResQLink+ 406 Buoyant Personal Locator Beacon and a backup transceiver with a backup battery for that.
Trips I'll be taking and posting on my YouTube channel this year:
Should be some fun adventures and I hope to create some nice videos for you all!
I bought this one, pretty simple, just plug it into your handheld audio recorder, iPad or iPhone with the 3.5 jack adapter and it’s done. Zero trouble.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HQMLFWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nOmBCb14B5PER
I picked up this small kneeboard a few months ago and have been happy with it. I'm learning in an LSA so space is super cramped
[ASA KB-1 VFR Kneeboard] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003455YF4?ref=yo_pop_ma_swfww)
People use rubberised lipo straps and small rubber feet.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0777KFCHD?m=A3TXMSIFSSB0X
I've made it about 30% of the way, but it's not practical or enjoyable. I'm sure there's an easier way with voice attack or something, but I just printed out the list, clipped it onto a kneeboard, and peek down through the bottom of the headset then touch type the next location as I'm fuel scooping. I doubt I'll finish, and I mostly just use half a page if I need to get allied with a faction in a hurry.
The ones that are given with the exam. It can be bought on Amazon. The written test is pretty much a joke. Just buy a good study app and memorize it till you get good scores. It isn't a good way to test actual knowledge but I get why they do it. https://www.amazon.com/ASA-Airman-Knowledge-Testing-Supplement/dp/B01K0L2WOA/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=private+pilot+test+supplement&qid=1562254240&s=gateway&sr=8-10
Try a David Clark headset (H10-13.4). They have much softer gel pads that wrap around the frame better than the RA200. I wear glasses (thick plastic frames) and my first few lessons I borrowed an RA200 headset from the school and experienced the same problem as you are having. The price is attractive, but it is definitely worth buying a headset that is comfortable - even if it costs more, it will be worth it. I would recommend borrowing a pair of David Clarks from someone to see if they will work better for you. This is what I have:
http://www.amazon.com/David-Clark-H10-13-4-Aviation-Headset/dp/B0011Z9PM2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1451101309&sr=1-1&keywords=h10-13.4
I've found the footage has been very helpful to review my landings and radio communication after my flights!
I have a gopro hero 3+ and a gopro 2. There is a mount on the ceiling of the plane I soloed in (it was put there even before I started training) and it gives a good angle of the cockpit and outside.
I bought a cheap gopro frame mount on ebay for a few bucks so that I can plug the audio input into the camera while it's mounted. Ebay Link.
To record audio I got this cord that can plug into the gopro or even your smartphone to record all cockpit and ATC audio. Amazon Link.
For the other gopro I got a suction cup mount and put it on the passenger window! I got the gopro brand suction mount but I think I'm going to return it because it doesn't have a ball joint for 360 degree rotation.
They're using aviation headsets, looks like David Clark H10's (https://www.amazon.com/David-Clark-H10-13-4-Aviation-Headset/dp/B0011Z9PM2). They're pretty comfortable, no problem wearing them for hours at a time and they have some pretty beefy noise cancellation (you'll never get 100% noise cancellation but its good enough).
source: dad was a pilot and used to wear these when flying with him
I got these for me at the beginning of my training. I'm over 100 hours in them so far and love them very much.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CBJ29C4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just bought these from Amazon yesterday: KORE AVIATION Premium Deluxe Cloth Ear Cover for Pilot Aviation Headset as I found on a thread somewhere that they worked well for the Tiamat that are flaking. If I don't like them when I get them though, I'll definitely try out the Logitech replacement pads. Thanks!
Electrical is the easiest of the major trades that impact the homeowning diy'er IMO.
Conceptually it's similar to plumbing, only the actual implementation is far easier, and you'll generally know if you make mistakes right away. The hydraulic analogy works quite well for many concepts with electricity.
Here are the basics:
The biggest problem you're going to have is drilling and running the new wire. The electricity stuff is easy. It's easier than ikea furniture. The construction part is tricky because there are limits to how/where you can drill holes in your house to keep the structure safe.
There are also bend radius limits on wire, and limits for how hard you can pull on them without damaging the insulation. Don't manhandle your wire or twist/bend it up too badly.
Ideally your wire should be secured to the structure every 4', and within 8" of the fixture. Don't leave spools of it, just 6" of wire in the box so you can work with it to attach fixtures and such. You don't have to rip out your drywall to secure the wire, retrofits are allowed.
Read up on the hydraulic analogy here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydraulic_analogy
Plumbing and carpentry are things where people can screw up and you don't find out for years. Generally with electrical you can know right away if something is wrong with simple tests. I think the fact that it's so easy is a reason electricians seem to be the most cantankerous towards DIY'ers of the trades. There are homeowners that do stupid things - but they're not the ones asking questions about how to do it right.
Inspectors are helpful and reasonable with homeowners doing their own work. Their job (and yours) is to keep people safe. If you're allowed to do your own electrical in your municipality, do it, pull the permit, and when your inspector comes out he'll make sure everything looks right.
tldr; if you can do ikea furniture, you can do your own electrical. Anyone that says otherwise is just protecting their income or legitimately finds something so easy really hard and you need to be weary of those people.
edit: Some people will scare you with "Everything has to be brought up to current code which will cost $bazzillion." This is not true. Generally, retrofits are allowed so long as they are safe and are at least up to the code at the time of building.
edit2: The code is both a standard, so dude #3 will recognize the work dude #1 did without any guessing, but it also specifies a minimum. You can always do more than the code specifies, but not less. Don't confuse work done "to code" with "the best" or "optimum." Often, a tradesman will do something that is easier for himself but impacts the work or your home in a negative way. Most often this is drilling through something they shouldn't, or loading up a circuit to max capacity because they're too lazy to pull new wire.
edit3: The book I linked is the 2011 code. The main difference between that and the 2014 code that applies to homeowners is that AFCI breakers are required just about everywhere now. This means instead of spending $3 on a new breaker, you are spending $30.
source: I completely rewired my house and passed inspection (with compliments) thanks to the power of The Google.
It's aviation headset.
I had the same deal, I just bought a couple of these. If you think you might occasionally have a few passengers, it's probably worth it.
I picked up the Jiffy hood for 9 bucks on Amazon.
I've never had an troubles removing this before landing, or any other time I needed to take it off.
Have both. In your training, instructors seem to love signing the log books, and also gives you a place for endorsements. I tape my student cert and medical to the log book just to keep everything in one place.
http://www.amazon.com/The-Standard-Pilot-Navy-Blue/dp/1560273305
Is what you see in many FBOs. Simple, and it works. I consider this my paper backup. With each page filled, I take a picture and stick that in my google drive or email it to myself.
I also keep a google spreadsheet of all my flights so I can do some basic analytics. This is where I really track currency.
That's a good indicator, thanks, but the format isn't what I'm looking for. That's larger, and more free form. I did find https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LPZD56/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 though, which says the paper specifically resists bleed through, so we'll see.
You gave me a great idea with this post. I have two Thrustmaster MFDs that I never use any more now that I fly in VR. I'm going to take one of them and rig it to a kneeboard off of Amazon. It'd be perfect since I would still have full access to HOTAS controls and the Thrustmaster MFD buttons are prominent enough that I could easily feel my way around the board instead of using the nose gap in the Oculus. Great idea!
Save your money for a nice ANR down the road and buy these in the mean time:
CRAZEDpilot CP-1 Aviation Headset Pilot Headset - Aircraft Airplane https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009W797NS
They are close enough to DCs to hold you over until you need ANR. Also buy ANR as soon as you can, it will literally make flying less fatiguing and ATC easier to understand.
https://www.amazon.com/d/Aviation-Headsets-Intercoms/David-Clark-H10-13-4-Aviation-Headset/B0011Z9PM2
Keeping your budget in mind, if you can stretch a little on price, get THESE from David Clark.
If you HAVE to stay in the $150-$200 range, then get THESE!
I've seen this gets posted frequently. Here's a high level overview with some specific parts.
You need at least one camera (duh) and a way to get audio. The camera can be gopro or knock off, but you need a sturdy mount like this or this or this.
The easiest way to synch audio is to connect your camera straight in to the audio panel, with a cable like this or doing the "stuff the mic in your ear" trick that was mentioned already.
You could also get a billet mount like this to get some awesome external views and/or a wing strut clamp like this but your battery may not last as long as your flight!
Then head on over to your favorite video software and go at it!
Good luck and share your videos w/ us when you're done awesomeing it up!
I decided to get a cheap pair figuring that if they weren't good enough I'd use them as my passenger pair. They work absolutely well enough for my use, I don't have issues with noise, they don't squeeze too much, and they've held up. $99 from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CBJ29C4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thank you. Fortunately it came with a very annotated original manual. Also got the old headphones with them and they are these minus the microphone https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0011Z9PM2/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1520443057&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=david+clark+h10-13
Pilots use these to practice instrument only landings
That look like these
https://www.amazon.com/Bose-Aviation-Headset-Bluetooth-Cable/dp/B010FTYIUS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?adgrpid=53517458062&hvadid=274708249838&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=21167&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=6458743912922163210&hvtargid=kwd-298915767260&hydadcr=19029_9444901&keywords=bose+gaming+headset&qid=1563582931&s=gateway&sr=8-3
I have 2 of these - https://www.amazon.com/CRAZEDpilot-CP-1-Aviation-Headset-Pilot/dp/B009W797NS . With my radio and intercom, they sound more clear than the popular DC H10-13.4. The DCs were just a bit more comfortable and the mic was more sensitive. The Telex headbands are more friendly for longer haired passengers, but performed about the same as DC. It is my experience that all 3 become uncomfortable after 3-4 hours of continuous use. If I had a different (newer) intercom and/or radio, I might have a different headset. Also $85(2) vs $300(2).
Flying under the hood is not just a turn of phrase. There is an actual hood people wear: https://www.amazon.com/ASA-H2G-Jiffyhood/dp/B003VSCBSC
I remember looking at that one too, can't remember now why we decided to go with the other. oh we also grabbed the cloth covers for the ear seals (https://www.amazon.com/KORE-AVIATION-Premium-Aviation-Headset/dp/B017ZL3KS0) which seem to help a ton in the comfort department.
You betcha. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00G13RPZS/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1417391658&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_
http://www.amazon.com/ASA-ASA-KB1-KB-1-VFR-Kneeboard/dp/B003455YF4
Get a knee board. I got one of these to learn how to fly and it's been indispensable taking exams in those useless desks.
https://www.amazon.com/ASA-Visual-Flight-Kneeboard-ASA-KB-1/dp/B003455YF4/ref=pd_aw_lpo_468_bs_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Q9NZYAHP313PR9PCNZG9
Looks like these. Have you actually hooked them up and played WT with them? I think you'll need a special adapter if you want stereo sound and a working mic.
https://www.amazon.com/KORE-AVIATION-P1-Aviation-Headset/dp/B01CBJ29C4/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1495402029&sr=8-5&keywords=anr+aviation+headset
what about these?
i mean cheap but with ANR. Don't know much about the company but the people like them.
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Description|#MinaMorcos #Aviation #PilotAccesories⤶⤶I hope you guys enjoy the video and consider subscribing! Let me know if there is anything I should add in my bag. ⤶⤶Join the adventure! Like, Comment, Subscribe. ⤶⤶Here are the items featured in this video: ⤶⤶HS-1 ASA Headset⤶https://www.amazon.com/ASA-ASAHS1A-HS-1-Aviation-Headset/dp/B001THL8SQ/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=hs-1+asa&qid=1567604225&s=gateway&sr=8-1⤶⤶**Sportys Fuel Tester ⤶https://www.sportys.com/pilotshop/sporty-s-fuel-tester.html⤶⤶Pilot Logbook⤶https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Pilot-Log-Black-ASA-SP-30/dp/1560273283/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1BOX1FBFTUQBA&keywords=asa+pilot+logbook&qid=1567604416&s=gateway&sprefix=asa+pilot+lo%2Caps%2C123&sr=8-1⤶⤶Sectional Map (Dependent on the area you live in)⤶https://www.amazon.com/FAA-Chart-Sectional-YORK-Current/dp/B01M0OQ7ZI/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=sectional+map&qid=1567604476&s=gateway&sr=8-1⤶⤶Smith & Wesson Flashlight⤶https://www.amazon.com/Smith-Wesson-Flashlight-Waterproof-Construction/dp/B000I4O8BK/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=smith+and+wesson+flashlight&qid=1567604268&s=gateway&sr=8-3⤶⤶ ASA Kneeboard ⤶https://www.amazon.com/ASA-Visual-Flight-Kneeboard-ASA-KB-1/dp/B003455YF4/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=leg+clipboard&qid=1567604524&s=gateway&sr=8-1⤶⤶Flight Gear Bag**⤶https://www.sportys.com/pilotshop/flight-gear-quick-case.html
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I have this ASA knee board, very simple and t has some good references on the board (like VFR altitudes) which is handy while you're still learning.
ASA KB-1 VFR Kneeboard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003455YF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2uYlyb311EE2P
I actually havn`t received it yet, but I believe it uses USB-C
Edit: https://www.amazon.com/Nflightcam-Audio-Solution-GoPro-Session/dp/B01MT3Q50Y#HLCXComparisonWidget_feature_div
He was probably referring to something like this that has the VFR flight regs + other reminders on it.
Looks like Prime Now (Amazon) has the Bose A20 (at least in Austin), and Prime Now I think also operates in LA.
But.. that's a $1k headset.
https://primenow.amazon.com/dp/B010FTYIUS?qid=1522013957&m=A1B7R5U0XCJ7F8&sr=1-1&ref_=pn_sr_sg_0_img_A1B7R5U0XCJ7F8
Looks like these
I fly a 172, and I have a ipad air 2 (full size). If you have a mini-ipad, suction mount and yoke mount as probably less intrusive, but for full size ipads they are too intrusive for me. Here's my personal experience:
I do have a laptop, and although this one has plenty of 1/8th jacks I like the versatility of USB.
I do like the Audio-Technica set, but I'm kinda leery of the plastic. I've been looking at the CameCom Commander type pro gaming setups, but the availability and price is an issue.
I have been thinking about buying an aviation headset and swapping out the internals but that's a bit of an undertaking.
So i think i know exactly what little booklet you're talking about. I absolutely hate those booklets. I very much urge people when i do a discovery flight to spend 11 dollars more and get a real log book for that chance of them ever continuing.
That said. If i understand it right you have 2 hours in that paper log book. In the PPL phase those 2 hours are not that much at all and it doesnt really matter if you bring them over. You're going to be flying at least 55-65 if not more hours.
Now... hours are hours and quite frankly i would wanna keep all the hours i can. If this where my own logbook, i would take the totals from the flights in the old book and log them in the first line of the new book, and put in the comment section "carryover from old logbook." Id take a picture of that lookbook and id either always have it in a place i could access it or take those pages out and tape them in the back of my book.
As far as a logbook you should buy, im a personal fan on the Jep logbook - https://www.amazon.com/Jeppesen-Pilot-Logbook-Student-10001315/dp/B000LPZD56
As many will also say, you can always go electric. Just know that it means for every checkride you're going to have to bring a print out of your logbook and sign them.
On amazon.
2 Options. No Bluetooth or Bluetooth
The pictures on amazon just show the no Bluetooth variant
I don't disagree, but if you are going to do work, you are responsible to learn how that work needs to be done. For example:
http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-Electrical-Code-Reference-Professional/dp/1111545480
That is an abridged homeowner level book of the NEC for $15. Want the full book with commercial and industrial requirements: Spend the $150 bucks.
If you are doing electrical work on your house, $15 is nothing. Keep in mind, you will need an electrical inspection to get a C of O. And you will need a C of O to get insurance. Worse case scenario, if you don't buy the book, the inspector will direct you to correct problems they see.
It is not fair to ask all tax payers to fund these organizations for few percentage of homeowners who do this work themselves. Especially when the information is available at a very reasonable cost, or free from your local library, and most codes departments will lend the books to homeowners who are interested in doing the job correctly.