Best battery chargers & accessories according to redditors

We found 4,791 Reddit comments discussing the best battery chargers & accessories. We ranked the 1,525 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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AC adapters
Power distribution units

Top Reddit comments about Batteries, Chargers & Accessories:

u/quickwrx · 98 pointsr/DIY

The fans run on 12V and likely don't use more than 12-24W each. You could use a cheapo power brick.

u/DrHELLvetica · 21 pointsr/homelab

I have that same amp. I find that upgrading the power supply to a nicer 3 prong model, like the one linked below, will eliminate all noise and static at higher volumes.

u/Reeces_Pieces · 21 pointsr/GrassHopperVape

Most important things would probably be

1.) Hold it upside down when you clean the main chamber by swabbing with a q-tip dipped in ISO.

2.) Use a high % ISO. 91% or higher is best. 71% isn't terrible, but avoid anything lower. (I saw at Walmart they had 50%, like what the actual fuck, who wants to pay for 50% water?)

3.) Let the thing COMPLETELY DRY after cleaning. Take it apart and let it air dry for like at least 30 minutes.

4.) I highly recommend getting an external Nitecore charger and some extra batteries, but if you do use the cable I wouldn't recommend leaving it unattended. It even says in the manual to not let it charge unattended and plug it into a surge protector. You want to be there to unplug it in case something fucks up.

With the external chargers you won't have to worry about that. Leaving batteries unattended on a Nitecore charger is safe because they are loaded with safety features and come from a very reputable company. Also, you can charge up to 4 batteries at a time and still use a different battery in your Hopper.

2 battery slots; 3 LED lights display:

4 battery slots; 3 LED lights display:

2 battery slots; digital display:

4 battery slots; digital display:

5.) Don't soak the Silicone condom in ISO unless you are OK with it turning a yellow/brown color. Just swab it with a Q-tip dipped in ISO.

6.) If something isn't working right like the straight to blue issue or it isn't heating up quite as much as it used too, then look at the battery contact on your back-end. If there is black gunk on the contact, carefully swab it with a Q-tip dipped in 91% ISO. Also, make sure the threads on the back are clean. Let it dry completely before using.

7.) Never ever ever ever let air be pushed into it. Like don't blow into it.

Also, Idk if you have heard of delta3dstudios and their awesome attachments yet, but their funnel that is designed for the Grasshopper is simply amazing. Makes loading a cinch and fits the GH perfectly and it is only $7(it was $8 when I got it). They also make other accessories for the GH as well as for other vapes.

u/Abcdqfr · 17 pointsr/oculus

I couldn't find an affordable buttkicker brand package but I did find a great amp and transducer on amazon for 2/3 the price of the Gamer 2 (cheapest buttkicker) at just about $100. It works fantastically! I'll post links to the products if you care to see them.


AuraSound AST-2B-4 Pro Bass Shaker Tactile Transducer by Aura Sound

Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier and 1x68W Sub Output by Lepai

12v 6a Adapter Power Supply for LCD Monitor with Power Cord by LCD AC Power Adapter

u/snakesoup88 · 16 pointsr/photography

The powercube you shown is not a transformer. It WILL NOT convert 220v to 110v used in US. Most AC adapters operates with both 100v/220v, such as a typical laptop power block. But not all your electronic toys can handle 220v, for example travel iron. Some electrical devices has a 110/220v flip switch. When in double, read the fine print on the label of your device. Or be safe and invest in a transformer (just an example. I have something else brought in a foreign country)

u/gemorris · 13 pointsr/onebag

I get adapters for my cords so I can carry fewer: I have just a short and long USB-C cord but then alternate tips I can put on it to change into micro USB, lightning, and plug into a regular USB slot if need be.

I also carry a tiny flashlight on a keychain hanging off my pack - it's surprising how often this comes in handy.

The Kikkerland Universal Travel Adapter is AMAZING, works everywhere and is a third of the size of most travel adapters:

u/nomseventy · 12 pointsr/minimalism
u/kent1146 · 12 pointsr/vaporents

This is my induction heater.

I got the idea because I thought that some of the colors and textures in this (dark wood, glass, copper coiled wire, metal) reminded me of an olde-tyme'y "Edison lab" or "steampunk" theme.

u/koottravel · 11 pointsr/onebag

I personally hate both of them. they're too bulky and take up too much of the outlet space, sometime blocking access to other outlets or finding yourself not able to use to because it can't fit.

for converting I simply use this. most of what I charge is via USB, so I use this two port dongle. I also travel full time and use this converter/extension cord.

u/leadedsolder · 8 pointsr/vintagecomputing

100v transformers are fairly cheap on Amazon and a good investment if you want to get further into Japanese computers (do it!).

I use one of these for my HB-101:

u/Raider1284 · 8 pointsr/Multicopter

I almost always recommend the

same 50W as the B6 charger but this one can handle 6A. It doesnt come with a power supply though so you will need something like this: to make it all work.

u/Shirokumoh · 8 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

28g Kanthal Wire - Standard Starter Stuff. My favorite.

Sterile Cotton Balls - You can also go the cheap route and buy a bag of cotton balls from CVS and boil them before using them.

Intellicharge Charger - Efest also makes one with an LED screen that is my personal favorite, but it's like $30. This one is the most often recommended charger in this sub.

BOOM, give that bitch some juice (Sony VTC5) - Again, most commonly recommended battery in this sub. The purple Efests aren't bad either, but this is the standard.

Safety first, MOTHER FUCKER! - Seriously, you need one of these. Can't be vapin' on that crazy wacky coil you made up if it might blow your face off. I figured I'd include an Amazon link, but chances are you can get one of these much cheaper at your local Vape Shop or on ebay.

Alright, you've loaded up your cart, you whipped out that credit card, now you wait. How should you pass the time?

OH SHIT! Lets watch a chubby guy build your dripper! - This crazy mofo is using silica wick, but you can use your cotton the same way. Once you're familiar with how the Helios is set up, any rebuilding video will be applicable. Check out a few once you're familiar with the parts.

Finally, get some JUICE, BITCH! You mentioned you have some puny little e-go thing, so I'm sure you're familiar with juice. But you need to understand something, son... You're about to take the step from puffin' on a thing shaped like an e-cig to "CHUCKIN' THE VAPE!" Flavors you liked before will probably taste like ass on a dripper, and flavors you could never appreciate before are going to taste fuckin' amazeballs.

Start with the old Reddit standards, Bombies' - 'nana Cream and Suicide Bunny - Mother's Milk. Then explore from there.

That's it. 'bout $40 of new hardware and an hour on youtube and you've got yourself a new hobby.

For the record, that's a sick little setup you got there too. Jelly, bro.

Happy vaping!

u/holotone · 7 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Yes, they do. I'd highly recommend a better charger, though.

u/nguyencs · 7 pointsr/WeddingPhotography

I use La Crosse Technology BC700. I sure as hell wouldn't trust any charger that charges batteries in 15 minutes.

u/amaranth1 · 7 pointsr/trees

The batteries I bought a couple months ago are the "Powerex 2700" ones. I haven't tried any batteries other than those or the stock batteries, but the Powerex were highly recommended when I was looking for batteries myself, and I have no complaints. Type "Powerex 2700" into Google search, and "Powerex 2700 mflb" is one of the autocomplete suggestions, haha. xD

The 2700 refers to milliamps, which is basically how much power they put out at any given time. I think 2700 is more power than the stock batteries ever put out (even before they started to degrade over 6 months). With 2700mA, you have to take faster draws or you'll scorch the herb. I always found the stock draws exceedingly slow, so I like not having to wait as long.

So those batteries are a good investment, and they're only $13 on Amazon for four batteries.

Now about chargers. If you try to charge a battery too quickly, it can seriously damage the battery. The stock charger is what's called a "trickle charger". Trickle chargers "trickle" only a small amount of charge into a battery, which means that they are safe to use on long-lasting, slow-charging batteries as well as short-lasting, fast-charging batteries.

The biggest issue with the stock charger is that it doesn't have overcharge detection. It's generally pretty safe to trickle-charge even a fully charged battery. What's NOT good is to leave a battery on trickle charge for days after it reached full capacity.

The charger that I got is this LaCrosse charger. It has three different charge rates, all of which are compatible with the Powerex batteries. I'm not sure if charging them quickly all the time is a good thing even if the batteries support it, but the option's there if I need it.

My favorite feature about the LaCrosse charger is "discharge" mode. What it does is completely empty the battery first, THEN recharge it. This is very, VERY good for your batteries. Unless you fully empty a NiMH (the type of battery the mflb uses) before recharging it again, it will have a "ghost" effect, which is basically tricking the battery into thinking that it's dead even when it shouldn't be yet.

The last cool feature of the LaCrosse charger is "discharge/refresh", which discharges and recharges the batteries 20 times. The charger's manual recommended refreshing new batteries at least once, which increases the performance or some such. You don't want to cycle a battery too much, though, since I know they're only supposed to handle a limited number of cycles. Cycling the battery is a good way to erase a ghosting problem, though.

So I recommend getting the Powerex 2700 at the very least. You can charge those in the stock charger, and simply buy new ones (they're only $12, after all) whenever they start to suck. But I really like my charger, too.

(Modified copypasta from a message I sent another redditor a while back. I hope this helps!)

u/PM_ME_YOUR_VALUE · 7 pointsr/Dynavap
u/theblakjak · 7 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

This massdrop isn't really a big savings. Especially adding the shipping cost. At least if you already have amazon prime. Total at mass would be $13 ish @ i2, and $18.49 @ i4, while amazon the i2 is higher priced, being the only deal by way of $2 at massdrop, and the i4 is cheaper by .05 on amazon.

(Amazon prime is a worthwhile awesome service and at such a low cost, i recommend it highly, plus there is a free trial to check it out in case you don't have it.)

u/[deleted] · 7 pointsr/AskElectronics

You don't want a voltage divider, that's a pretty specific circuit made out of resistors ;)

I've found these little devices pretty handy for running things off a 12V supply. They're limited to 3A, but with a little bit of wiring you should be able to run them in parallel... tweak both of them to the exact same output voltage on your multimeter, then wire them up in parallel, throw a 100uF cap across the output leads to help filter the supply, check the voltage, and you're set. Once the rig is running to your satisfaction superglue the pot screws so they don't get turned accidentally.

u/americanairman469 · 7 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT order batteries from Fasttech. They are having huge issues with international shipping of Li-ion batteries and what typically happens is it will sit at the Hong Kong post for a month, only to be returned and you to get a refund. If you can't afford to spend a little extra on a stateside vendor, at the very least, just order the Mod and charger. Order the batteries from a stateside vendor. Here's what I would do if I were you.

Vamo v5
Couple of these

Then whatever tank setup you want. I prefer a cartomizer tank. You're going to spend a touch more, but you're going to get all of that within a week, and know that it's actually going to get to you. My two cents.

u/low_blocker_side · 7 pointsr/Dynavap

Hey u/beasthoss! thanks for posting this. You saved me some money and clarified a few things regarding what components i should be looking for but i have a question regarding the battery options. I know that wiring in the 18650 battery pack would require a BMS but as an alternative, would an external pack like this work with a male to male power cable if i wanted to go portable?

u/WrenchHeadFox · 7 pointsr/DIY

So, presumably, you're going to want different sections to have lights which operate independently from each other. Lights in this "room" lights in another "room" lights somewhere else yet. And also, presumably, you don't want it to be "all on" or "all off," but different sections that turn on when players are there, leaving the other sections off.

All sections will require power in order to operate, but it won't be necessary to run power cables willy nilly all over the board for this. Instead, you can run two lines - one positive, and one negative - back to your power source. It's similar to a breadboard in that you have power lines running the full length so you can tap power wherever you need it. I personally would run something like 14AWG wire to a series of screw down terminals, which will be where you connect any "room" circuits up.

I personally would change your design to use LEDs instead of incandescent bulbs. The incandescent bulbs will require a much higher voltage, which will require more expensive reed switches, and will also pose more hazard to work with and for the players. It definitely can be done safely at 120V, but it will be less work for better results (that will also last longer) if you switch. Using say, 12V DC for power, you can leave your power rails exposed if you want and it won't be a risk even if someone is touching them.

Here is a hastily drawn wiring schematic for you, which shows one light that would be activated by standing upon 6 different tiles. The black and red lines up top are your power rails. On one end, each of those is connected to a + (red) and - (black) on a power source. I would recommend something like this or even like this depending upon what your actual power requirements end up being. My overwhelming suspicion is your entire board, even if every fixture was lighted, would still be consuming less than 24W (if you go LED!). The cluster of 6 of the same item to the left are a bank of switches. Power is drawn off the + rail, and if any one switch is closed, power will continue to flow to the LED (purple), which is attached to the - rail to close the circuit. This can be scaled up or down almost infinitely - more LEDs on from one switch or switch bank - no problem - more or less switches - no problem. You can make as many of these set ups as you want, and attach them to the same rails - no problem!

To be honest, reading your post it sounds like still have some work to go to reach even a fundamental understanding of electrical circuitry. That's of course ok and not intended as a diss. This is partially why I recommend switching to a lower voltage of DC power (although it is what I would do personally as well), but also I would recommend you continue working on the fundamentals - it will make designing your project a lot easier. Here's a kinda whack video for kids but it's the most digestible one I was able to find in quickly searching. I also found this really cool lab software which will allow you to create simulations of the concepts you've learned about. If you need help or have specific questions, feel free to ask. Also, if you've got a design of your board laid out in a grid and you know where you want lights, switches, etc, I can help you turn that into a wiring diagram.

u/KnownSimplyAsTim · 6 pointsr/whatisthisthing

Definitely this. There would have been an aerial uhf/vhf antenna on the roof, it used 300 ohm flat two wire cable to connect to these leads, old TVs connected.directly or you could get a.converter to go to 75ohm coaxial

Like this

u/nakedarthur · 6 pointsr/crtgaming

I think what you need is an antenna to coaxial adapter.

u/CoreyC · 6 pointsr/cordcutters

I think this is what you need to connect a convert box to the tv:

u/HRGeek · 6 pointsr/snes

An RF Switch connected to a Matching Transformer with the TV set tuned to channel 3? That is how we had to hook up consoles to our old Televisions in the 1980's.

u/nathan118 · 6 pointsr/hometheater

Custom made out of plywood. Exhaust on that Sony is in that front corner, so I put two fans, buy I'm actually only using one. I left a small gap along too back for intake.

Using this to automatically turn on.

And then the noctua plugs into this.

And then I found a good temp for it to turn on, and it balances out nicely and keeps temps from skyrocketing, and even runs til it cools down and shuts off.

Lined it with carpet, and overall noise is good. Never hear it. That being said, I'm weird, and I could hear it in quiet scenes, and then I'd START listening for it, ruining the movie, so I made the box. Most normal people don't have this problem. 😆

u/CriticalComposer · 6 pointsr/SteamController

I use Eneloops. I have both the old Sanyo and the new Panasonic onea and both seem to perform identically. As for a charger, I can't recommend the La Crosse BC-700 enough. I used to use the cheap wall bricks (like the Amazon Basics one) but they tended to stop charging after a year or two. Also, they don't intelligently charge so they could be reducing the life of your batteries (see the "edit" below.) The La Crosse has stayed with me for 3 years and it has so many options that help improve the life of each battery. Most cheap chargers ate around $10-15 USD and the La Crosse is typically on sale for $35 USD.

Edit: One of the big advantages of this charger is that it reads each individual battery and only charges it as long as it needs. Most "dumb" chargers (especially ones that charge in pairs) uses a set time charge and can reduce the life of your batteries.

Edit 2: there is some evidence that the Amazon Basics rechargeable batteries are rebranded Eneloops. So for those who want to save a couple of bucks, you could get those instead of Eneloops and you'll have comparable, if not identical, batteries.

u/Intell1gentL1fe · 6 pointsr/xboxone

Looks like India has 220 V. So you should be able to buy the xbox one from the US, and a European power brick, or just a European version.

You may need a plug adapter though.

edit: Yeah, looks like you might need something like this:

u/t3duard0 · 6 pointsr/vaporents

Alright, so here's the heater, And here's the power supply I'm using. You're gonna want a 12volt 10 amp rated switch, the supply goes to 6. It's worth the 20 bucks, totally changed the vapcap

u/Tudius · 6 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Looks good except for the charger. Trustfire chargers aren't known for there quality. I'd upgrade to something like Nitecore i4 or the Nitecore i2.

u/dougstoner · 6 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

There are quite a few out there, but I have the Nitecore I4. (Can charge 4 batteries at a time)

Works great for me, though I have read it does have a slow charge rate. I've never had any issues with mine, and never charges above 4.2 volts.

Here's the I2 (2 battery)

u/YarrJay · 6 pointsr/ft86


  • Nexus 7 2013 w/ Timur's kernel (still in closed beta - open for donors)
  • Custom 3d printed housing
  • Alpine KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack Amplifier
  • USB OTG Cable - Modified to fit
  • DC-DC Converter
  • Behringer UCA202 USB DAC
  • Bluetooth OBD2 Adapter - For getting real-time data into the Torque app
  • Add-a-fuse
  • Ground loop isolator ** Item still needs to be tested. This was purchased to hopefully eliminate a popping noise i get when first powering on the system

    Must Have Apps

  • GMD Gesture Control - Since i have no physical volume control buttons anymore GMD gesture control allows me to setup custom gestures like a 2-finger swipe to access volume control.

    Very excited to be ~95% complete with the install. A couple things left:

  • pull out the double-din housing i made and put the top on it which also includes a fan
  • address a 'popping' sound when turning on the system. possibly caused by the amp turning on before everything else? still seeking a solution here

    More than happy to try to answer questions for anyone else looking to do the same thing. Very happy with the outcome thus far.
u/bkharmony · 6 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Higher-End Beginner/Intermediate Setup with Clearomizer or Carto Tank Option

This is a bit of a different recommendation. I've seen some requests lately where someone says, "money is no object." This is for the person with some cash in hand who wants something that's going to last and perform reliably well. I've included recommendations for both a clearomizer and carto tank.


ProVari V2.5

18650 AW Batteries for ProVari (get two)

ProVari Extended End Cap to accept 18650 batteries

Provari Wrap (Not necessary, but good to have some protection.)

ProVari Beauty Ring (Not necessary for the recommended tanks, but a nice accessory.)

Kanger Aerotank and
replacement coil heads

AGR Locking Carto Tank

Cartos for AGR (Don't bother with unpunched cartos. Pre-punched are great.)

Luer Lock Syringe for filling AGR Carto Tank

Nitecore i2 Intellicharger

Seduce Juice Sample Pack

The Vapor Chef Butter Beer and Honey Pearry

Drip Tip for cartos


Other Great Juice Vendors

Adirondack Vapor - excellent high-grade juice. Placid is a must-try.

DBLiquids - great, affordable juice from a good guy

The Plume Room - excellent flavors that work particularly well in a clearomizer

Alice in Vapeland - subtle, often delicate flavors

Grizzly Vapes - affordable premium juice. Nanner Bear is excellent.

Captivape - solid mid-grade juice from a great vendor

Velvet Cloud Vapor - natural, organic flavorings, 100% VG

u/siZors · 6 pointsr/caving

I don't know if I would trust any headlamp with a USB-C port on it into a cave... it seems like asking for trouble with it getting filled with mud and other nasty stuff. A similar light is the Nitecore HC50, which is $15 cheaper and has red lights. I have this light and have taken it in many muddy, wet caves and have banged it up something good and it is still rocking strong. The beam is awesome, and while it's only 565 lm this is honestly still brighter than useful pretty much always. I typically run it at the second or third brightness setting anyways. My only complaint with this light is that it is a bit heavy, which isn't really a problem when strapped to an ecrin roc, but can be annoying when not using it with a helmet around the camp.

My favorite light is my Zebralight, the hype for this thing is well deserved. While it doesn't have a red light, the form factor is awesome. It is super light on the head without the hassle of a battery in the back. I think many people will agree that the Zebralight H600 series is one of the best caving lights you can get. (note there four versions of the H600, two LED colors cool and neutral, and two beam spreads, flood and spot)

Nitecore makes a blatant ripoff of the Zebralight that is $30 cheaper. While I don't have one of these, I did have a chance to play with one after a buddy of mine got one and it seems to be pretty neat. Considering how much I like my Nitecore HC50 I'm willing to bet this would be a solid light to get as well. One thing I like about the Zebralight over the Nitecore is that it works with flat-top 18650 batteries so you can bust open old laptop batteries and use the cells to power the light, whereas the Nitecore requires a button top 18650. Not a huge issue but something to consider.

Edit (some more thoughts):

It sounds like you are new to caving, welcome! I would recommend that you attend a local grotto meeting, which I believe for you would be the Southern California Grotto. You may meet some awesome people and it's a good way to get involved in the sport.

Also, with your flashlight purchase don't forget to get an 18650 battery and a charger for it. You may already have these since you have the Nitecore MH25 but I figured I'd mention it just in case. Be careful with the batteries to get a reputable brand because there are a lot of fakes out there. Panasonic makes good batteries, but unfortunately there are a lot of ones that say Panasonic that are made somewhere else and a lot of ones that say other things that are made by Panasonic. Confusing! I got this one and it works great. You can take a risk with cheaper ones, just know they might not last so long. This charger works good for me. I've had both of my lights last for a 14 hour cave trip so the battery life is pretty good.

u/dimildarko · 6 pointsr/vaporents

I recently ordered this one off Amazon. Hasn't arrived yet but the reviews seem very good and for $10 what do you have to lose?

u/kenzoyamaguchi · 6 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

If you are looking for a cheap mech/RDA setup, hit up They are great clones for amazing prices. Here is a great little build for under $30. You are going to need a battery and a charger. Both can be picked up on amazon for about $10 a piece.


4nine Mech mod ($18)

Mutation X V2 RDA ($8)

2 Efest High Drain 18650 Batteries

Nitecore Charger

I have the exact setup ^ and it hits like a beast. The mutation X is amazing. The adjustable airflow is awesome, and the flavor/vapor density is super great. If you have any more questions, hit me up.

EDIT: Lol downvotes? I am just trying to help someone out.

u/dalvikcachemoney · 5 pointsr/cordcutters

Your TVFool link is not working for me. Thats a VHF/UHF antenna judging by the sizing of the elements so it should work. That box is an FM trap which means it would filter out FM radio frequencies. This can help reception if you have strong FM stations nearby and are trying to draw in weaker TV stations. The FM trap has a bypass switch, its currently in the off position so it is NOT filtering FM. The 75 or 300 switch allows you to change the trap output between 75 ohm coax cable and 300 ohm twin lead. You'll want to leave that on 75 and connect your coax cable to the box. If that box gives you trouble you could try bypass it by purchasing one of these. But I would give it a go with the current setup before purchasing anything else.

u/so-very-very-tired · 5 pointsr/Mid_Century

To start, you'll need one of these to connect the antenna leads to a coaxial cable: Then you need to figure out how to connect the coax to the digital signal.

You could get one of these to go from HDMI to 480RCA out: Then get one of these to convert the RCA to a coax signal:


So the chain would be: digital source --> HDMI --> HDMI to RCA converter --> RCA --> RCA to RF/Coax converter --> Coax --> Coaxial to Antenna Leads converter --> TV

u/benryves · 5 pointsr/SegaSaturn

US mains electricity is only slightly higher voltage than Japanese mains electricity so you should be able to use a Japanese system in North America without a step-down transformer (and many do).

If you really wanted to confirm the power supply can handle the slightly higher voltage you'd need to look at the PCB, as the back of the console will only indicate 100V. This one is rated at 85V-132V, for example, so would work fine in Japan or North America. You'd need to check your own power supply though to see what it could handle.

Otherwise they do sell step-down transformers like this but it could well be unnecessary.

u/Catch-420 · 5 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I have been using the La Crosse BC-700 Alpha Power Battery Charger for several years now with great success. The reviews are mixed, and many folks recommend the pricier BC-9009 in its stead, but I have been 100% happy with the BC-700, and it is extremely affordable.

u/javaavril · 5 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I really like my Lacrosse smart charger, it has refresh and discharge cycles, can slow and fast charge, takes nimh and nicd, and trickle charges. The first one I had lasted around 7 years and only failed because I drenched it in root beer. It does a really great job at extending the life of my batteries, I'm still using some from 2004.

u/Kadori · 5 pointsr/CarAV

where to begin...

your stock alt is most likely ~90 amps, you should be fine powering that hifonics off of it. that being said upgrading your battery is a good idea, even if that is just buying a new battery (something like an interstate megatronII will be fine) and doing the big 3 is also a good idea, at the very least upgrade your battery to chassis ground (0 ga CCA will be fine for this).

as for your installation options, you will be needing a LOC if you want to keep the stock HU, something like this will be fine.

the stock HU should be just fine running those alpines and no it does not put out 160W rms, its probably closer to 10W per channel so those alpines will cope just fine.

if you have any other questions dont hesitate to ask, this sub is here to help.

u/ChrisRK · 5 pointsr/hometheater

You can indeed do this. Peoples has been doing this with car audio for years.

You will need to get a high to low signal converter which is basically a resistor to increase the impedance and output a weaker signal to the active amplifier.

Note that depending on the power output of your receiver you might have to turn down the subwoofer output quite a bit to not blow or melt the converter as the one I linked above can only take a maximum of 50 watts per channel.

u/Niblnabl · 5 pointsr/Multicopter
  1. Turnigy Accucel 6 charger

  2. power supply with correct polarity and fitting connector (not included with charger)

  3. Micro Losi parallel charing harness (looks like serial, but it's for parallel charging)

  4. female JST to 4mm banana plug

    and while all of this is on the way, read about parallel charging because LiPo batteries can and will burn your house down if you are careless.

    DO NOT have batteries connected without it plugged into your charger. If the banana plugs touch and short the batteries, you will have problems. You will want to unplug the JST connectors instead, because it is much safer.

    Learn about C ratings, parallel charging and safe lipo storage.

    In a parallel configuration you want your charger to think you're charging a single cell lipo with the combined capacity of all of the batteries. For your 1C charge rate: 240*5=1200mAh/1000=1.2A, so you would select 1.2A and leave the default 3.7v(1S) configuration.

    You could also purchase a serial balance harness for those situations where the voltages of the batteries aren't close enough.

    This was a really rough write up, and I may edit it a bit. But it's 5 AM and I just wanted to spit it out.

    Grrr, I rattled off a bunch of information and the edits didn't take.
u/Dayum_Son · 5 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Mech - I have the magneto and it preforms like a champ. Absolutely no complaints. I'd look at a nemesis clone by hcigar as well.

Atty - Igo W. It has amazing preformance, and for $20 or so you cant beat it. I'd also recomend this top cap. It will make it look flush on a magneto, nemesis or any 22mm mod. It fits right on top of the Igo W and gives you airflow control. Watch the video on their site.

Batteries - Sony Vtc4. Best batteries. you can get two for under $25. Make sure you get at least 2.

Charger - In my opinion the Nitecore i4 is the best charger. It gets the job done and is dirt cheap on Amazon and free two day shipping with prime.

u/U_DONT_KNOW_MY_LIFE · 5 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

this is a charger recommended to my by another redditor when i was thinking about getting the vamo. It's on amazon.

u/Namekian66 · 5 pointsr/GrassHopperVape

It doesn't seem to be sold in physical stores but you can get it from amazon pretty quick.

u/mcfarlie6996 · 5 pointsr/flashlight

Hello and welcome to the world of flashlights!!

So I looked on Amazon at the packages they have and saw that this was their best package which comes with the flashlight, Nitecore i2 Charger, and a Nitecore 3400mah battery for $99.95. If you bought these specific items separate they'd add up to $104.84. So not much of a savings but 5 bucks is 5 bucks.

Now if you wanted to get a different package, there's this for $99.95 which the only difference is that it comes with two 2300mah batteries instead of one which technically adds up to a combined 4600mah but of course you'd have a much lower runtime per battery. I'd prefer the keeping the 3400mah package instead because you might not always want to carry an extra battery on you.

A third option would be to the buy the flashlight and charger separate and to buy the battery here at ILLUMN which will come to a total of .... fuck... $99.82... so it's not cheaper to get it separate using a different brand of the same quality battery.

Well let me know if you have any questions. 3400mah is the highest capacity battery which they are typically the most expensive too but there are ways around that. The runtime it shows on the specs are most likely with the use of a 2600mah battery so with a 3400mah battery, you should expect a ~30% longer runtime.

u/TokeFerPedro · 5 pointsr/Waxpen

The Tesla TC70 Stealths are on sale. Get that, the regular Sai kit with all coils and a pair of batteries so you have a spare and a charger.

A little more than the kit but will get you more options and some of the more reliable batteries in the biz.

u/Jwiley92 · 5 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

$18.50. It's a lot cheaper than having to keep buying new batteries because your mod's charging kills them, or buying a new mod because your overstressed batteries kill it.

u/THAT0NEASSHOLE · 5 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Get an external charger. a 'nitecore d2' should be good for you.

Link for charger (usa based)

You might want an extra set of batteries. One can charge and the other can be in the mod.

The revenger x should stop charging by itself when full. The battery meter should show full. I would not do this though.

u/QwertzHz · 5 pointsr/flashlight

Can chargers be allowed?

Bought a charger. New submission:

u/Miami_Mike · 5 pointsr/Vive

The power supply for the HMD is rated at 12 volts, 1.5 amps. This "ZOZO" adapter from Amazon should work fine. I just checked my Vive HMD power supply with a meter and the polarity is "inner Positive(+), outer Negative(-)", just like in the Zozo description, so polarity won't be a problem. Just pick out the plug adapter that fits from the assortment they give you and set the voltage to 12 volts.

Edit: The $10.98 unit is rated at 12 watts, which is only 1 amp at 12 volts, so the current rating of that unit is lower that the original power supply. Maybe you'd better get the 36 watt unit for $14.99, just in case. That unit should be good for 3 amps, which means double the rated capacity of the original supply.

Amazon has a lot of other choices as well. Just look for 12 volt capability at at least 1.5 amps (or 18 watts), the correct polarity, and an assortment of plug adapters so that you'll get one that fits.

u/StorageB107 · 4 pointsr/RetroPie

Composite video out of the Pi using this cable

and an RF modulator to connect to the Antenna In connection on the TV

If your TV is even older and only has VHF terminal connections, then you also need a Matching Transformer


Note: Do not buy the standard composite out video cables from Amazon. Most of these will not work with the Pi (unless it specifically says it does) because the pinnouts are different (even though the cable looks the same). Also, don't buy the cheap RF modulators on Amazon because some of them are very cheap knock off brands that don't work correclty. I made both of these mistakes when I was getting started.

u/CraftingNinja · 4 pointsr/crt

Ok so you have 2 options, one not as practicable but would be more convenient with more sets. Option 1, the easier one, is to get an adapter like this one.

It doesn't have to be this exact model but you just need some sort of adapter like this one. Considering this tv was made without any inputs other than RF, this is your best bet. This is also considering your vcr has RF, but since nearly every vcr has RF already you should be fine. The second option, is less practical but possible is to create your own analog station in your home. Since the analog airwaves for tv have been pretty much abandoned, you can do what you want with it and this would be a neat thing to setup, especially since it would also be able to transmit to portable tvs also. If you don't want to buy an adapter brand new, you could probably find a used one in a thrift store but the new ones are not all that expensive either. There are also rca to RF converter boxes so with those you can take composite video and lay it on this tv.

u/CptnKickass · 4 pointsr/Homebrewing

Materials I had to buy:

u/pornaccount2500 · 4 pointsr/SpaceBuckets

Hi space bucket folks.

Here is my bucket build. I at the stage of testing the temp and humidity. Next steps are to tack down the wiring and power supply, buy a cabinet to stash the bucket in...and then start growing!

Here are the parts I bought off amazon:



power adapters and mylar:

(shout out to /u/mcscroggins for posting his build. I referred to it while building. And thanks to other posters in this sub for posting pics of their builds for ideas and such).

u/EGHeart · 4 pointsr/Mustang

If you want to retain stock & just install a sub and amp it's a simple job.

You just need to purchase a 2 channel line converter.

After that just split that converter into one of your rear speakers. Use the RCA's and plug it into your mono amp and your all good.

I'm assuming you know how to power your amp & hook up your sub to your amp.

u/Davkhow · 4 pointsr/prius

Most people will tell you to just buy a reman pack from one of the aftermarket suppliers or go to Toyota to get a new pack.

But if you know what you are doing, you can probably get a dead battery up and going again for a couple hundred bucks.

The first thing you want to do is remove and disassemble the pack. There are some good videos on YouTube for it. ChrisFix has a good one.

The next step is checking the voltage of every module in the pack. Anything less than 7.2V is most likely trash. Depending on the charge of the battery, they will probably be 7.4-7.6V and they should be relatively close to each other. If there is one that is more than about 0.2V away from the others, I would replace that as well.

Once you know which ones are bad, order some replacements from your supplier of choice.

For balancing, you will probably want a battery cycler like this one. You want something that will discharge and fully charge NiMH batteries. You want to slowly discharge each module to 6V then charge it back up. This will take a long time because you’ll have to do it 28 times.

Depending on how long it takes, you may also want to charge them all again at the end. This should put them close enough in balance that the car would be useable again.

This is not guaranteed to work. But typically there are one or two bad modules in a pack causing the red triangle. The replacement modules are most likely not going to be matched to the rest of the pack. And you may end up in the same spot a few months down the road. But $100-$200 is better than $1200-$1700 if you just need to get by for a while.

u/moostapha · 4 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

According to Amazon and Nitecore, yes. It will charge NiMH batteries.

But I haven't used it. I'm sure the manual is available somewhere from that second link.

u/frogsandstuff · 4 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Nitecore Intellicharger @ Amazon

It's possible that your charger isn't working properly, but it's also possible that it has been overcharging your batteries and has thus killed the battery life. Use your multimeter to be sure.

u/meowmix4jo · 4 pointsr/ecigclassifieds

Just buy it new, that's what they cost.

Most of the stuff on this post is same/more than new actually.

u/machipu · 4 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I wouldn't consider that a beginner device, you could consider getting the Katana kit from Vape Dojo, or an eGo kit from Discount Vapers or Steam Monkey while you're learning the ropes. I'll try to provide an explanation, regardless.

What you will need for your mod are batteries, a multimeter to check them, and a topper / clearomizer.

Batteries: MNKE, or Panasonic. You can get smaller/shorter ones as well, I just prefer the big ones so you can go longer without a recharge.

You don't want to store these at full charge for too long, probably not longer than a week at most, and you won't want to drain them. A drop of about 1 volt is probably the max. This may vary, some people drain them a lot lower but I believe it's safest not to do so.

Charger: Here is what I use. I hear Pila also makes good chargers, maybe shop around.

Clearomizer: Kanger Evod or Protank II are both good. The Protank II is glass and can be fully disassembled, the Evod is plastic and has just two or three pieces. You can pick up replacement heads at Discount Vapers or just about any e-cig vendor.

Let me know if you have any questions, there's a lot to take in.

u/dali01 · 4 pointsr/RASPBERRY_PI_PROJECTS

Yes. Use a 24vdc power supply with 6+ amps and then use a buck converter to drop the 24v to 5v.

Buck converter

Power supply

u/phreaknes · 4 pointsr/arduino

This is very close to what I've was working on for a very long while and gave up. I just don't have the programming kung fu. I would love to get back on it as I've got the hardware down just the damn programming kicked my but.

here is a picture of what I trying to achieve.

the ramp and the numerical display

and I just wanted to press a button to toggle between the different sensors. I sorta got the ramps working but I couldn't get programmed how to get the ramps to show different sensors at a button push.

Maybe we can work together or maybe a peak at your code to give me a hint on how to proceed.

Edit: by the way after calulating the amp draw I decided to use one of these to power the sensor as it's more stable and cleaner for my install needs.

u/billgarmsarmy · 4 pointsr/E_Cigarette

>So far i am very dissatisfied with the iclear 30 tanks that come with it, they leak, gurgle, don't produce very much vapor, and also have an insanely tight draw. Compared to my previous $20 dollar vape pen, this is absolute hell. Could someone recommend me a good tank that supports replaceable atomizers?

yeah the iclear 30 isn't great. look in to: aspire nautilus, kanger protank 2 or 3/mini protank 2 or 3, kanger aero tank, etc

>Also i was wondering how to take good care of the battery, i hear a lot about them exploding, don't want any of that to happen. I got myself an ultrafire charger so that i don't overcharge the battery. What else should i do to keep it safe? besides switching to a better one as my current one is a cheap $7 one.

not a ton to worry about here since you're using a regulated device. your svd will not fire any shorted coils. it will not fire coils that are below or above the regulated limit, and it will not discharge your battery below like 3.2 volts. all of that means you could use inexpensive, low drain batteries to maximize your battery life. personally, when the svd and its ilk were my daily drivers i used the samsung 26f ICR cells. they're 2600 mah and like $4 a piece. super cheap, long life.

also, that trustfire charger is garbage. upgrade to something better soon. personally, i use the nitecore intellicharger, but there are a lot of decent and relatively inexpensive chargers out there. the intellicharger i2 is ~$12 on amazon or ~$13 at illumination supply (great source for batteries too, use coupon code ISPOWER for, iirc, 10% off).

>And for the last question, what is the resistance of an atomizer, and what does it mean? is higher or lower better? all that kinda stuff please.

basically lower resistance means coils get hotter faster. this is fine if you have adequate airflow and good wicking. but can be a problem if those things are lacking. personally, i liked 1.8-2.2 ohms when i ran the SVD. but that's personal preference. you should play around with different resistances and settings on your SVD to see what you like. i suggest starting at like 5w and then slowly going up until you find your sweet spot of flavor/vapor.

here's a reddit thread that might help you.

hope this helps.

u/Militancy · 4 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Are you a flashlight geek? Are you cheap, want to test the waters, and just happen to have some 18650 batteries around? Are you a tinker-er or would you just like your first set-up to have replaceable batteries so you only have to buy one device?

The cheapest way to get into this is with the $20 (often on sale for $12) [Plastic Bolt]
( Be warned, it IS cheap. Expect it to last about a month before the hot melt "potting" breaks loose from the 510 connector and gets wobbly. It will still function. Mine lasted about 3 months before I turned it into a passthrough (uses a PC Power Supply instead of a battery. If you know a bit about electrons, once you pop open the case of this device it should be immediately obvious how you need to wire it to the 5V rail). If you want something more permanent look at this guy $43 or this guy ($38). They're not that much more expensive and are good solid performers. I don't care anything about the safety fuse, but hey, it comes with it, so you might as well.

Now You'll need some batteries and a charger. I highly recommend getting IMR chemistry batteries. ICR chemistry batteries tend to fail spectacularly, while an IMR just vents. These failures are rare, but can be caused by drawing too much amperage off the battery, either intentionally (you made a coil with too little resistance for your battery) or unintentionally (coil shorted, device shorted, etc.) and sustaining that load (leaving the button pushed in your backpack, hard short in the device that you left on the other side of the room). Again, these failures are RARE, and often caused by negligence. But you're a geeky type, so you know better. If all your batteries are ICRs or you don't have any, the best price per performance is this guy ($8) or this guy ($11) These are great batteries and, should you decide you really like this stuff and want to blow fat clouds, they will carry you into sub-ohm rebuildables. Check your battery voltage often (you do have a multimeter, right?). I recharge at around 3.7V, but you can take it down to 3.3 safely, below that voltage drops fast and you'll (permanently) kill the battery below 2.5V or so. Once you get used to it, you'll feel the vapor output and throat hit drop off and know it's time to recharge.

If you don't have a charger already, I have the $30 EFEST LUC (no serious complaints) but this $18 Nitecore i2 comes highly recommended by many users.

Now, we are trying to keep with the cheap thing, and there is no better way to get good flavor, throat hit, and vapor on the cheap than a dripping atomizer. Being able to change flavors rapidly is just a nice bonus (you're new, you'll probably want to try all the things). You want low resistance (1.4-2.0) ohms since you're running off battery voltage. P=V^2 /R power is directly related to vapor/flavor output. A good starting point is 8-10W, so about 1.8ohms or 1.5ohms (respectively). This guy ($6) and this guy($6) are often praised as a being high quality, but still cheap. or you can jump straight into rebuildable drippers like this little guy ($8). It comes prewicked and should last as long as the disposables listed above, but once it dies, you just recoil and rewick instead of throwing it away (I'll leave this as an exercise for the user, but let me just say that you can buy a couple lifetimes worth of resistance wire for $10 and a couple lifetimes worth of cotton wick for $5) Remember when i said those batteries will take you all the way up into sub-ohm rebuildables? So will this atomizer. When you're ready just recoil to a lower resistance. Aint that handy?

If dripping sounds like too much of a hassle then the $10 Iclear 30 sounds right for you. I haven't used it, personally, but people will not shut up about how much they love this thing.

Now the juice is a whole 'nother world and it's really hard to make recomendations. If you can I HIGHLY reccomend going in to a brick and mortar E-Cig store and sampling flavors. Buy from them. Yes it's more expensive, but you probably spent an hour trying stuff out and it'd be pretty shitty to walk out and buy it from the internet. If you don't have a brick and mortar then go to these places and order what sounds tasty in the smallest bottles they have. You'll find that what you think you'd like doesn't always correlate to what you actually like. here's a few that I like:

These set ups should have you outperforming the typical ego and cigalike set ups for not much more money and leave you a lot of head room for future growth. They're also cheap enough that if you decide you hate vaping (inconceivable!) that you're not out much and can probably sell it to someone looking to upgrade. Good luck and happy tinkering.

u/SirLaxer · 4 pointsr/xboxone

That's why you have at least two sets. One set always fully charged in the wall charger, and the other set in your controller. It takes like 10-20 seconds to swap batteries.

Here's an Energizer set that includes a wall charger and four AA batteries for about $16. I used to use the Xbox One Play and Charge Kit, but it only has one pack, is more expensive ($25-$30), and I've found that those packs tend to wear down quicker than regular batteries. And there are a ton of people here who swear by Eneloop rechargeable batteries, but they're more expensive than the Energizer/Duracell options ($26-$36).

u/anthonsh · 4 pointsr/OculusQuest

Battery pack, 5V 3A output and digital screen.

USB-A to USB-C right angle, 4', data and 3A charging. Wanted magnetic but the only one I could find in Canada was delivered in the wrong length.

And rechargable batteries.

I eventually might buy those prescription lense inserts when they're out too.

u/SecAdept · 4 pointsr/OculusQuest

Get rechargeable. Save the environment, and some money in the long run.


u/exceL26 · 4 pointsr/xboxone

Just buy some rechargeable batteries, they last years instead of the months the play and charge kits do.

u/Ephemeral_Halcyon · 4 pointsr/Vaping101

The mods with the bottoms that push up are referred to as tube mods. Those mods are mechanical mods, which are extremely dangerous for beginners. At the very least, if you don't know what you are doing then you can ruin the mod. If you're really unlucky, a mech mod could literally blow up in your face. When you move up to a mech mod, you really need to know what you are doing. I know that's not the answer that you want, but if you're interested in learning more about starting out with mech mods I would visit /r/electronic_cigarette.

If you have vaped before, and seemingly on something with some power, then I would recommend a regulated box mod with decent power. The sigelei 150w and 150w TC boxes are very nice, and the latter will allow for some play later on with the temp control option.

Some tanks that are really nice at the moment are the Sense Herakles, SMOK TFv4, and the Uwell Crown. I also enjoy the Kanger Subtanks.

You would also need batteries. If you go with an 18650 box, I would suggest the green Samsung 25r's. They are available on amazon. At the moment they are the best around to my knowledge.

A charger to charge those batteries. Nitecore D2 or Nitecore D4 would be your best bets. If you plan to really start vaping, I would go with the D4 so that you can charge up to 4 batteries at once.

Then you would need juice. If you have tasted one that you really liked with a friend, then I would ask that friend what flavor they are vaping. For a really great online option (I swear to god all of his flavors are amazing), Giant Vapor can't be beat. There is also B-X Vapor, VapeWild, and MechSauce. Be aware that whatever juice you might get (unless it says otherwise or was purchased from a local shop) will probably need to steep for 1-2 weeks.

u/IamRupe · 4 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I know you're not in the US, but the Nitecore D4 is currently on Amazon Prime in the US for about the same price as FastTech.

Nitecore D4

u/nFbReaper · 4 pointsr/LocationSound

I'd recommend
if you can't afford a more expensive battery atm.

You need to make sure whatever battery you use has a 2 amp output or greater.

This particular battery is 12V/2A and should power your rig all day.

It's also suppose to have a good safety circuit (per Deity Sound which tweeted about using this battery for camera stuff)

u/muchcharles · 4 pointsr/Vive

You can use cheap batteries like these to run the lighthouses for many hours without an outlet:

u/lillgreen · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

See the headphone lookin jack on the back labeled Ext Antenna? It's doable but you'll need some nutty adapter spaghetti.

  • one of these - not sure where to get them these days but like this
  • one of these
  • and an rf modulator

    Put tv on channel 3 or 4 VHF and done.

    Good chance that it's only a black and white screen btw. Sony had portable color tvs of the same size back then but lesser known brands were B&W. There would also be more than three knobs on the back if it were color, those are the bare adjustments for grey scale.
u/MeowMixSong · 3 pointsr/cordcutters

You need this.

u/thisgameisawful · 3 pointsr/ColumbiYEAH

I don't know a company, but I built my own. To connect it to existing coax, you need a balun, something like this. If you haven't already bought an antenna and are the DIY sort, you can google for "Grey Hoverman" for a decent one to build. The one I built gets a ridiculous number of channels, and it's made out of picture wire and a 1x3 from Home Depot.

Edit: Should note, appearance wasn't an issue for me because it's in the attic, I spliced it into the coax the previous owners had run for satellite TV. YMMV

u/out7 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Look at the power supply on your computer. Chances are that it can handle 100V/50Hz input just as well as 120V/60z (as most power adapters can).

So, you'll just need a 3-prong to 2-prong adapter.

If you're really worried about it, get a converter like this: (just watch total load)
You could buy it ahead of time or once there. I don't know about Hokkaido, but they can easily be found in Tokyo.

u/calliope_clamors · 3 pointsr/xboxone

Agreed, eneloops are where it's at. I have about 40 of them, powering all my remotes, controllers and Rock Band instruments (two guitars, a pro guitar, drums, keyboard, and three wireless microphones = 21 batteries).

Get this charger, or one like it: La Crosse Technology BC-700 Alpha Power Battery Charger by La Crosse

u/kouhoutek · 3 pointsr/askscience

You could get a small flashlight that only takes two batteries, and use it to test.

I do rechargeable batteries, and got a charger that has a volt meter that I can use to test regular batteries. A new alkali battery should be 1.5 volts.

u/kc7wbq · 3 pointsr/AskReddit

If you use rechargeable batteries I highly recommend the La Crosse Battery Charger.

It keeps batteries fully charged with a trickle charge, and can "refresh" batteries that lost some of their capacity. It's even brought dead rechargeable batteries back to life for me.

u/WhiteZero · 3 pointsr/shutupandtakemymoney

I'm very happy with this and these.

u/SmokyDragonDish · 3 pointsr/amateurradio

I can't tell who's serious and who's joking.

If serious, in addition to what you said, I'm the sort of guy who always has a stash of rechargeable AA batteries. Powers my scanners. Also, a good AM radio that runs on AAs.

I like this charger

And these AA batteries

I'm in 2 land, so power outages are more of an issue here. Like, with Hurricane Sandy.

u/Hrel · 3 pointsr/mflb

If you buy this battery charger it can refresh your batteries. It can restore the full functionality of the batteries so you don't have to buy more.

This has saved many a AA battery from the trash can for me, read the owner's manual, use it properly and in the long run it will more than pay for itself.

u/bannable01 · 3 pointsr/mflb

The official batteries are by far the best batteries.

I like this charger. Has auto charging so you'll never over charge. Also can refresh the battery, making them last longer.

u/BigSherv · 3 pointsr/CarAV

I just got back into car audio. I am adding a single sub to my car and have done some research recently. Here is what I would suggest as a cost effective way to add some bass to your car.


Alpine mono amp new at BestBuy for $99. It puts out 500 watts @ 2 ohms.

Alpine MRV-M500 Mono V-Power Digital Amplifier


4 gauge amp kits or $19.45 on amazon.

SoundBox Connected 4 Gauge Amp Kit Amplifier Install Wiring Complete 4 Ga Installation Cables 2200W


You will need a line our converter (LOC) to hook up the factory stereo to the amp. This one includes a control knob for the amp as well. This one is $19.97.

SCOSCHE LOC2SL Car Stereo 2-Channel Audio Adjustable Amplifier Add-On Adapter with Remote Control Knob

If you want a cheaper one you can buy this one for $7.94.

PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter


You will need an enclosure for the sub. Since you are cost conscious, I imagine you want the most boom for your buck so I would go with a ported sub box. I prefer sealed but it is up to you. This one is $36.95 and has a decent speaker terminal.

ASC Single 12" Subwoofer Universal Fit Vented Port Sub Box Speaker Enclosure


|Amp Kit|$19.45|
|TOTAL before sub woofer, shipping is free.|$163.34|


That leaves you $336.66 to spend on a sub woofer and installation if you need it. You could easily get 2 10's and a box and still have a lot of cash left.


You can buy a used box pretty cheap on OfferUp or Craigslist as well as a quality amp and sub. I would not buy a used amp kit or a used LOC. However the amp kit you could simply buy the wire directly.


You see a lot of people selling JL W3's online used. That is a quality woofer at a good price.


I hope this info helps.

Here is the oxygen free wiring kit I purchased. It is a lot more but reasonable priced on Amazon for what you get.
KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit

u/e60deluxe · 3 pointsr/hometheater

its called a line level converter, and the type they sell for cars will work fine. should be able to get it easily in any car audio shop.


u/bean72 · 3 pointsr/CarAV

What kind of amp do you have? Some amps have speaker level inputs, you could just connect the speaker outputs on the head unit to go direct to your amp. Doing this will keep your fader working.
If your amp does not accept speaker level inputs, you can always use a line output converter that will take the front speaker outputs on your head unit to convert to RCA.
Here's a line out converter

u/lumberjack_dan · 3 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

Its called a line output converter

u/soul_train_ · 3 pointsr/CarAV

If you don't plan to upgrade the other speakers in the future, the lower-priced options (meaning: whatever you find at your local electronics supplier) will be fine.
Fancier models can give you more outputs, such as Front, Rear, Sub, and will also give you more level control.

My recommendations are:

Budget - PAC-SNI-35
Midrange - AudioControl LC2i
High End - AudioControl LC7i
Audiophile - JBL MS-8

Again, it mostly depends on your future plans.
The cheapest of the cheap will do the job, but if you can afford it, pick one that is a bit more than you think you currently need.
Because chances are good that you'll want to continue upgrading.

u/Pandalizer · 3 pointsr/CarAV

Get a line out converter. Splice it into the radio harness and gives you rca outs. Just find one on Amazon with good reviews.

Edit :

Check this out

u/SlimVR · 3 pointsr/infiniti

Its relatively easy. Splice into rear speaker wires for preamp (rca) signal, and run power & remote,

unless it's one of the newer signal sensing auto ON amps.

Or disconnect the oem Bose sub harness, leave it disconnected and tap into that harness for power, remote, and signal (+ & -).

As for the shop and the previous backup camera issue, find another shop asap. Those idiots either grounded the monster amp to the tiny ground screw that the backup cam uses, or they spliced into the camera's power wire as a remote turn on for the amp since it powers on with the ignition.

Try over at Best Buy, their auto installation bay area where they do alarms, radios, gps, etc.

Definitely check They have an online "what speakers fit my car" section, and their customer service is great, as well as their knowledge of in-car entertainment. You can even call them with questions.

u/sixside · 3 pointsr/digitalnomad

I still see so many people using those bulky power adapters for international trips. Clearly not enough people know about the Kikkerland UL03-A Universal Travel Adapter

It's the about half the thickness & weight of all of those other adapters.

Care to share your database? :)

u/ScrewTheAverage · 3 pointsr/onebag

We're not sure which one (if any) is a 'white label' of the other (they look very similar) but as an alternative we've been very happy with the Kikkerland UL03-A. It's also affordable at about $10 (and currently less than the one above).

We're r/Onebag travelers so volume (4 1/8 L x 1 6/8 W x 5/8 D inches, per our measurements) and weight (1.6 ounces, per product page) are very important to us.

We've plugged/unplugged it over ~75 times over the last year and it's as good as new.

u/CarryOnRTW · 3 pointsr/backpacking

First of all, good decision, even alone you'll probably have a great time, meet lots of people and likely become hooked on travel. :-) Here's some things I'd look for in a travel pack:

  • A ~40L bag is a good size that will force you to think about every item and not bring the kitchen sink. You'll also appreciate the size/weight when having to walk with it. Later in life when you might want to fly, it will also pass as a carry on bag which simplifies things incredibly and avoids the dreaded lost luggage scenario.

  • Some travel packs are definitely expensive. My advice on this is that most good packs come with excellent, even lifetime, warranties and will last you for many, many years and trips. So if you can, I'd try and save up a little more to avoid getting a cheap one that won't last. We might not be talking about a huge amount of money difference here either. I imagine a night out at the bar or a few packs of cigarretes/tobacco could be the difference between a lousy pack and a good one.

  • Get one with a load bearing hip belt and good shoulder straps. Night and day difference when walking.

  • Get one that can open the main compartment like a suitcase. Way easier to deal with.

  • Get a pack rain cover. Many packs have them built in but don't worry if it doesn't as you can buy them separately and they take up minimal space/weight.

  • I absolutely recommend only buying one that you have tried on stuffed with weight bags. Sizing is very important for the hip belt and shoulder straps to work correctly and you'll be able to see what you are getting.

  • Also purchase a light day pack (15-20L) that can be packed inside your main bag. You'll use this once you are settled in your accommodation and ready to explore.

  • I'm sure there are some great brands in Europe that aren't available in North America, so don't worry if you can't find the ones most people on here (North Americans) recommend.

    Some other tips:

  • Get a dry bag to store stuff that cannot get wet.

  • Light packing cubes really do help organize and roll your clothes.

  • Cheap household garbage bag. If you know its gonna be pouring I put my packing cubes inside this even with my rain cover.

  • An ultralight packtowel is a great item to have.

  • For our electronics, things like this and this have been great.

    Finally, 10 days travelling in a month means your trip will absolutely fly by. You might end up wishing you'd taken longer, which isn't always possible, and you won't be able to stay long in places you love. Mentally prepare yourself for this.

    Have a great trip!
u/quiteCryptic · 3 pointsr/VisitingIceland

Bring your own they are cheap... here are 2 of my favorites


Just make sure your electronics can handle a 220v input (most modern electronics you will see are rated for 100-220v which means you can use them anywhere as long as you have an adapter)

u/lordhamster1977 · 3 pointsr/onebag

There are like a million versions of that same basic adapter. You can probably score one off ebay for less than $3.

That said, if you want something super packable and light that works worldwide check out:
this badboy is awesome and super thin.

u/TheSonicRetard · 3 pointsr/oculus

Someone lit the TSR signal, and thus I am here :P

I bought the Aura bass shakers and a Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier. My Bass shaker is rated for 50W, where the Lepai amp only comes with a 3A PSU, so I picked up a 6A PSU on the recommendation of someone in this subreddit, and it's been working fine (hasn't burned up or anything). I'm currently attaching it to a ford cobra seat, but just from the limited test use I've done so far, it works great. Definitely shakes my entire apartment when I turn it up.

The entire kit came out to about $90 after shipping, which I figured was a great price. I've seen someone recommend getting 4 amps and 4 transducers and mounting them on the corners of my seat, then running SimVibe to simulate each wheel independently, but I haven't tried that personally. Nor have I tried the actual brandname buttkicker, so I can't say how this solution compares. But I will say it adds a huge amount of immersion to Assetto Corsa.

EDIT: Oops, forgot the parts list:

AuraSound AST-2B-4 Pro Bass Shaker Tactile Transducer by Aura Sound -

Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier and 1x68W Sub Output by Lepai -

12v 6a Adapter Power Supply for LCD Monitor with Power Cord by LCD AC Power Adapter -

u/Who_GNU · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

I have used and designed several power supplies, so I should have somewhat of an idea in how noisy they are.

Also, if by ultra-cheap you mean the sub $1 supplies with free shipping from China, then yeah, they'll be crap. I've seen flyback switchers with no feedback; they only output the stated voltage when you drew the stated current.

On the other hand, if they are the supplies that came with the devices, then barring rare circumstances, they're fine. Good low-current supplies are inexpensive, because the components are inexpensive. I could build a 1-amp offline switcher with a PCB bill of materials around $1, so it is possible to get a complete assembled unit for around $2, wholesale. They aren't too noisy, because the integrated controllers keep the feedback loops tight.

A high-current switching supply will have discreet components with larger high-current loops, and there is more current going through them, so there is more phase delay in the feedback, making more ripple. The current-carrying components are also often less efficient when they are designed to catty a high current. This can be mitigated by running multiple synchronized lower-current switching circuits, like most PC motherboards have, but the increased cost and complexity is very rare on bench-top supplies. Running a switching bench-top supply well below its maximum current can also put it in discontinuous mode, which will make it really noisy.

A high-current linear supply is going to be noisy with all but the lowest current draw, because 30% of the power it outputs is stored in a capacitor, so it will have ridiculous amounts of noise at 120 Hz.

If you have a really high-current linear bench-top supply replacing a handful of walll-mount adapters, then it could be lower noise, but you are talking a $100+ supply to replace $10 worth of walll-mount adapters. It will also draw much more power and generate more heat.

If you want to trunk all of your 12 VDC wall adapters into one, instead of a bench-top supply, I recommend getting a 12 V laptop/monitor adapter like this. It's essentially the same thing as the wall-mount adapter, but big enough for the multiple loads.

u/42N71W · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

use this or something similar:

it won't get you the maximum possible cooling power since it'll be 12v instead of 14.5v, but if you really need 14.5v performance you should probably just be adding more peltier modules.

ignore the advice about full wave rectifiers. you don't want to be running your temperature controller on a non-isolated dc supply. also note that 12v power supplies are not the same thing as 12v battery chargers.

furthermore, your schematic seems to have neutral attached to ground. that is probably not advisable. hopefully your 220v powered temperature regulator has separate neutral and ground lines.

u/DesolationRobot · 3 pointsr/woodworking

No, just a few simple parts.


Power Supply

Connectors (Technically optional, you can solder the cut ends of the tape. But this is much easier.

Magnetic Switch

Dimmer (Optional)

You'll also need basic wire nuts and spare wire.

I had 3/4" thick shelves with 1 1/4" MDF trim fronstpieces. Then I cut a small 45-degree piece to fit hidden behind the front trim. The tape then goes on that 45-degree piece so it's pointing down and back. I hope that makes sense.

u/BillDaCatt · 3 pointsr/PrintrBot

First off, using an ATX power supply is not a mod. That is the original intended power supply for the Printrboard. There is a socket for the six-pin video card power plug right on the board. In fact, the barrel socket power port is just a jumper to that socket and must be unplugged to upgrade to an ATX power supply.

Some ATX power supplies do require a short bit of wire running from the green wire on the large connector to any black wire on the connector before they will turn on, but that isn't scary, is completely reversible, and isn't even required on all power supplies. You can buy a premade jumper for precisely that purpose. Some ATX power supplies even include the jumper connector.

Now to answer your original question: You are looking for a 12 volt power supply with an ampere rating of 6 amps or more and a 2.1mm X 5.5mm, center positive, barrel style plug. Something like this one should work for you.

Let me be clear in why I prefer the ATX power supply. The ATX power supply is SAFER than the smaller barrel plug power supply. If I was going to run my Printrbot and leave the house for a while, I would feel much better using the ATX power supply. For fire safety, the ATX power supply is the better choice. Sure, the wiring harness looks a bit like an octopus, but a few zip-ties or velcro wraps will tame that beast.

u/bedintruder · 3 pointsr/gaming

If you are looking for something longer, there are these as well

16ft RGB LED strip - $14

And add one of these to plug into your wall...

Power Supply - $7

u/fixITman1911 · 3 pointsr/FTC

Don't do that, get a smart charger instead. I'll link the one I have in a little bit.

I have this one

and I am looking at getting this one

Both of these also have one extra really cool feature, you can power them with DC OR AC, this means, you could put a DC battery (i.e. car battery) on your cart, and recharge your robot batteries on the move.

u/NorseSock · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I'm going to give you a list with some upgraded options.

|Mod|Sentinel M16 Clone ($24.99)|Nemesis Clone($31.99)|
|RDA|IGO-W ($12.99)|
|Battery|Sony VTC5 ($10.99)|Buy more.|
|Charger|Nitecore i2 ($11.55)|Nitecore i4 ($16.25)|
|Wire|28 gauge Kanthal ($7.30)|
|Cotton|Your local drugstore, like $4)||
|Total|$71.82 + tax/shipping|All upgrades: $94.51|

You could save a couple bucks by ordering from China, but you'll be waiting quite a while for your stuff. I'm not a huge fan of the Sentinel clone, but it's really inexpensive. If you're cool waiting like a month, then I'd get the Nemesis Clone from FastTech.

u/StonePotato · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Greetings all!

My main suggestion to anyone wanting to get into vaping it is to skip the ego-starter kits, MVP2 (cheapish Vv or Vw boxes), non-rebuildable tanks (Protanks, Nautilus) and just drive right into the mechanical mod / box mod world. I say this because the vaping experience is so much better with rebuildables. I went with the all of the above, and I personally wished that someone would’ve told me to just dive right in, because all that stuff is sitting around not being used. The people that I’ve talked to are typically hesitant to do so because of the coil building, but there are so many YouTube tutorials, suggestions and information on /r/RBA and /r/electronic_cigarette that it’s much easier than it seems. Anyway, if I were to start all over again, these are the things which I’d buy.

Must Haves
These are the things which I consider essential to starting off the on the right foot. I’ve purchased a lot of things, and these are the things which I suggest to my friends. Most of the links are from Amazon, because it’s what I’ve primarily used.

Battery - Sony VTC5

These are pretty much the standard when it comes to “safe” batteries. They’re affordable, good amp limit and have been recommended many times. If you purchase from the link above, they also give you a plastic carrying case!

Charger - Nitecore i2 or Nitecore i4

Affordable, reliable and these won’t “overcharge” your batteries. The difference between the i2 and i4 is the amount of batteries they can charge at a single time. They also have a new fancier one out, called the Digicharger D2 and Digicharger D4. Those are nice because it has a LCD panel that displays a lot more information than the i2 and i4. I personally use an just an i2.

Mechanical Mod - Stingray

Now, 90% of what is suggested for an actual mechanical mod is going to be of personal taste. The Stingray is the “older brother” of the Nemesis. This is what I purchased when I first started out vaping. The unit is very easy to break apart, clean, has a locking ring, has a floating 510 connection and venting holes in case of a battery leak. Almost everyone I know has a Stingray.

Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer - Magma by Infinite

One of the best purchases I’ve made. The juice wells are very deep compared to everything else on the market (that doesn’t have a tank system). Threads are nice, easy to build on, post holes are large and the air-flow is easy to manipulate. You can run this on a single coil or a dual coil. Blows almost all the other RDAs I have out of the water. This is my main RDA.

Organic Cotton - Maxim Hygiene Products Organic Cotton Balls

I suggest using un-bleached, organic cotton. Some people take it one step further by washing them, I think thats taking it a bit far and I don’t do it. You can pick them up from any convenience store or supermarket (CVS, Walgreens, Target, Whole Foods), a 100 count will last you AGES.

Kanthal - AWG A1 26 Gauge

I like to use 26g kanthal wire for my dual coil builds. 26g is a bit thicker than what a lot of people suggest (28g), but for me, because it’s thicker, it’s easier to work with.

Screwdrivers - Stanley 6 Piece Screwdriver set
The screwdrivers which come with your RDAs are short, small and crappy. I like these screw drivers because they come in a variety of sizes and you do not need to mess with a drill-bit. What I really like about these, is at the end of the drill bit is a small little ledge (can’t think of a better word), where you can push your coil and scrunch it up a bit.

Ohm meter / Multimeter - Any generic ohm reader or Innova 3300

You can use a multimeter to do basically the same thing as an ohm reader. The multimeter has an added benefit of being able to read the volts are your battery as well. I have both, but I prefer to use a “regular” ohm reader. This video below can teach you how to use a multimeter for that purpose.

Optional items
Things that I’ve purchased that you can probably substitute with something in your house. They’re nice to have, most people have these, but I decided to link these anyway, because I didn’t have some stuff (my scissors were too large).

Scissors - Generic surgical scissors

To cut your cotton. Small, sharp and gets the job done.

Tweezers - Ceramic tweezers

Allows you to hold your coil together and torch them without heating up the tweezers.

Wire cutters - Hakko CHP-170

For cutting your kanthal off that spool!

Atomizer holder - Plano 23630-01

You’re gonna buy a bunch of atomizers. Everyone buys a bunch. You’re not going to be able to help yourself. I use this plastic case to keep everything neat and separated.

Building deck - Tenderfoot Stands

You don’t need this. But it makes building RDAs easier. You can also place your juice filled RDAs on here.

Torch - Mini Jet Flame 503

This will help you get those coils nice and tight, without having to fire off your mechanical mod.

Battery Case - Bluecell

If you don’t buy the batteries from the link above, you’re gonna want a battery case. Do not keep your batteries loose in your pocket or floating around your bag. They can come in contact with something metal and potentially damage the battery.

u/groverAlthouse · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette



Bang for the buck

Worst - anything with "fire" in the name.

u/d4rch0n · 3 pointsr/Vaping

Make sure you have a charger that stops charging when it's complete:

Most people will probably tell you to just buy new batteries, but if it's just simple wrap damage:

Pretty easy to rewrap them. Plus, you can print out your own custom designs

u/nrhinkle · 3 pointsr/bikecommuting

There are many different replacement battery packs sold online, but I'm somewhat wary of any of them. Any which has 4 cells isn't going to be trustworthy unless it has a charging circuit built in to the battery pack, because you need to monitor the voltage of each battery cell individually and essentially charge each battery separately to be safe. Few if any budget battery packs will do that.

I would go the route of finding a decent case and then using your own 18650 batteries. That gives you control over what batteries you use, and lets you replace them on the go or over time as the eventually wear out.

For a case, something like the Fenix BA4C or this random case from Amazon should work. Then add 2x or 4x protected 18650 batteries.

For the batteries, I'd go with KeepPower 3400 mAh or the 2600 mAh ones if you don't need as much runtime. They use genuine Panasonic cells with a protection circuit, and are highly favored by /r/flashlight. Other trustworthy brands include Olight, Fenix, and Nitecore. Make sure you're buying from a legitimate distributor though; there are lots of fakes on eBay and Amazon.

A good charger would be the Nitecore i2 or i4.

u/JackofTrades92 · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I haven't heard about that battery charger that comes with the kit, but a nitecore i4 is probably the most recommended charger on ECR right now.

If you want to get some cheap kanthal wire, you can get it off Ebay for cheap. I got like 100ft of kanthal for $8 off ebay.

There's my two cents.

u/XtremeGnomeCakeover · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette
u/santanzchild · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

If its new get a refund these batteries arnt a joke one of them goes it can potentially mess you up or even burn your house down.

something along these lines is what you want.

u/evilkorn · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Here is a good charger

What batteries do you have now for your evic? If you want to use it in short mode check out AW or Efest 18350's.

u/Xanimal13 · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I ordered a NiteCore IntelliCharger tonight :) 20 bucks shipped!

u/anonworkacct · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

Even a 9V will run out of juice eventually, unless you're talking rechargeable. You could also just buy rechargeable AAAs.

Back of the envelope calculations for average alkaline batteries - 9V batterries have ~5.085Wh, 3 AAA's have ~2.58Wh. To step 9V to 3.5V (3 AAAs in series), you'll have efficiency losses in the best case of ~80% with a buck regulator or 4.068Wh and the worst case with a linear regulator (3.5/9) = ~38.9% => 1.98Wh. So in the best case you'll get a 4.068/2.58 = ~1.58x increase in battery life with a 9V, for the added cost of a buck regulator.

u/EorEquis · 3 pointsr/astrophotography

A few of my own:

  • Expanding on /u/mc2222's field battery idea:

    A great many things...including things you might not otherwise think of...can be powered by a 12V DC power source, such as a car battery.

    Swing by Wal-Mart, and check out the Deep Cycle "marine" batteries. They're pretty low quality for marine needs, but they're perfect for ours. Even a mere 50AH of capacity will be PLENTY for what we do. You can pick one up for $40-$80 depending on size/capacity.

    Next, look for or build some sort of distribution panel/box/etc. It can be as fancy or plain as you want. All you're after is some central point so you can plug in all this stuff you never knew could be powered off 12V. Personally, I use this guy but there's lots of other methods of doing this.

    Now...there's all the obvious things you can power with it. Most motorized mounts, for example, plug right into the car lighter outlet. You can, of course, clip that connector and put some other connector (like the banana plugs my unit takes) on if you wish. But for these items, no further mods are necessary. Dew heaters and camera coolers are other common 12V devices.

    Now here's where we get cute...Got a DSLR? It probably has an AC Power Adapter available for it, right? Take a close look at the specs for'll see that while its INPUT is 120VAC (plugs into a wall) it's OUTPUT is plain ole DC...PROBABLY 7.2V or so (a 2 cell LiPo, for the record). Grab yourself a little adjustable step down gadget, cut the cable on the CAMERA side of the converter that's inline, and just use the handy battery adapter piece. Solder it up to the output side of your step down supply, solder up some wires on the input side, set it to 7.2 (or whatever) output, and poof...12V power for your camera. :)

    You'll find there's a zillion devices that "plug into the wall", but if you check their OUTPUT, it's 12V DC (or less)...and thus, you can use this method to power them in the field off your field battery. :)

  • Hand Warmers : Not only good for keeping hands toasty on cold imaging nights, but useful for keeping your guide scope or camera lens warmer to help ward off dew/frost.

  • HobbyPartz (among many others, but these guys are amongst the cheapest I've found) has these slick Red LED strips that can be powered by as little as 3V, or up to 12V. They use insanely low amounts of power, so even a small battery pack will power them all night.

    What good are they? Well...they're adhesive on the back, AND you can cut them to your desired length, and solder new lead wires onto each strip.'ve got night-vision safe lighting for your laptop, your telescope, your field table..whatever! They serve both to illuminate your work area, AND mark your equipment for others' safety.

u/graffiti81 · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Hcigar Nemesis 2 tone (add the magnets) $37
Hcigar TOBH $25
Sony VTC5 x2 $20
Nitecore i2 $12
25' Kanthal 1A 28ga $6
Cotton balls from CVS $3

$109 for everything (maybe plus some shipping) and you're buying from a company that inspects every piece before shipping it, you're using high quality batteries (which will easily handle down to 0.2Ω) and a charger that won't burn your house down.

u/salpara · 3 pointsr/flashlight

I haven't yet bought a flashlight that runs on 18650's because I can't find a charger that I trust. I was looking at a Nitecore charger on Amazon and in the reviews someone shows that it [caught fire!] ( Most of them look pretty shady to me, honestly.

What's considered the safest of these chargers? I'm not willing to risk a fire in my home where my wife and two children are for a cool flashlight. I understand the appeal of the 18650's, but I might just stick with AA and AAA's.

u/Virisenox_ · 3 pointsr/whatisthisthing
u/squired · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Dude, $100 is a lot if you go for clones. Except for those with 'authentics', all of our rigs are well under $100.

Here is what I setup for my brother:

4nine - $21.51

Kayfun Lite Plus V2 - $30.02

Nitecore i2 Charger - $11.79

18350 Purple Efest Battery - $4.24 each w/ 'ISPower' Coupon

28g Kanthal - $5.45

Bag of Cotton Balls - $3


Total: $66.01

...and that's a REALLY nice setup. You could get away with half that and still have a great setup.

u/DrGigawatt · 3 pointsr/vaporents
u/not_a_krustykrab · 3 pointsr/18650masterrace
u/Metal_Gear_Vaper · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I'm glad to hear that you were able to switch it out.

I do recommend you pick up an extra battery, and an external battery charger. Its much safer that way. I never trust any mod to charge my batteries

Here is a good cheapish external charger you could pick up

u/lolwutalan · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I own a Sigelei #8w and love it.
I have the 18650 tube, but if you went with the 18350 tube, you'll just need one single battery. The top cap has a screw that you can loosen/tighten if your battery rattles inside.
I was able to use the mod right out of the box, and I have had it for a little over a month, and no misfires at all. For some time, I was annoyed that my RBAs wouldn't sit flush with the mod, but I later found that above the battery screw was another bolt I could loosen or tighten to get my RBA to sit flush.
As far as chargers, Nitecore makes a fantastic charger.

u/EcrThrowaway · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette


What size batteries are you using? Also, your location would probably help find a place to order that is nearby.

u/ride4daze · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I personally use the Panasonic 3400 and get great battery life out of it. I think 3 days. Batteries charge so quick that I never really even notice. But at least 2 or 3 and have a rotation. Don't forget the charger. My recomendation. There is also one that has 4 spots for batteries but it is really unncessary in my opinion. I wish I got the camo as well since the fingerprint magnet is mildly infuriating.

u/rntr200 · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

You would need a soldering iron. You can desolder the av connector and solder it to the pi. Im confused how you want to power it. If you want to power everything off a 5v in you need a dc to dc booster like this to power the screen. Or if you want to power everything off 12v like the monitor needs you can use something like this. The pi needs about 2amp to run so just check how much the screen needs (its on the back sticker) to figure out your input

u/mr1337 · 3 pointsr/LifeProTips

Add a fuse:

You will also need a 12v to 5v converter:

12v positive side of the converter goes to the add-a-fuse. For the 12v negative, screw it to any bare metal under your dash. Pre-drill or use a self-tapping screw.

5v positive and negative go to dashcam's positive and negative. In the case of a USB cable (which is what I have), red and black are positive and negative, respectively.

Make sure you look on the packaging to see if your dash cam is 5v or 12v. You can skip the convert if it's 12v. If it's USB, it will be 5v though.

One last note: Add it to a fuse that is only active when your car is on. Test this with a multimeter (one side on the fuse, other side on bare metal)

u/Heaney555 · 3 pointsr/oculus

Personally I recommend getting rechargeables and a dock like this, so you can just keep it in a socket all the time and instantly swap batteries when needed.

u/GamingScienceTeacher · 3 pointsr/OculusQuest

Lowepro DroneGuard CS 200 $25

Smart&Cool GenX USB-C Charging & Data Sync Magnetic Cable (Silver, 5ft-2pack) $9

Energizer Rechargeable AA and AAA Battery Charger $13

Yes, the controllers use one AA battery each.

Yes, it's a magnetic USB-C; no, I don't plan to wear it while charging because I'm a little freaked over the safety risk of that. It will just be to charge without worrying about yanking the cable out and to reduce wear and tear by plugging and unplugging the cable.

u/thisismyusernamether · 3 pointsr/Vaping
u/irememberyou2 · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

It is debated on if USB charging is good in the istick TC 100w. Some think it works well. I personally charge all 18650 batteries with an external charger like a nitecore i4

u/thematman19 · 3 pointsr/flashlight

Ok. Well, thanks to all you guys I spent WAY more than I had planned 🤣😂

I woke up to my wife asking “did you buy things last night?”
Me: “Yes”
Her: “did you make 3 purchases?” (She got PayPal notifications on her phone)
Me: “Yes” (as I sneak out the room)

Here’s what I ended up getting:

  • TN40S
  • M43 (I got the 219 is that the best one?)
  • Armytek Wizard Pro v3 XHP50


  • 4 x 3400 mah batteries Are these right for the Thrunite?

  • Unprotected Samsung 30Q 3000mAh batteries (the ones that were an add on for the Meteor)

  • A Nitecore i4 charger

    If you have a chance please review my purchases... if I made any mistakes with batteries please let me know! Thank you all so much, it’s great to experience a level of peer pressure with a group of friends I just subscribed to 24 hours ago ;).
u/asher1980 · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I updated the thread because I found my charger. It's a Nitecore Digicharger D2.

u/stomper38 · 3 pointsr/Vaping

You can get a D2 for $16... Definitely worth having a decent charger... Depending on how "generic" the charger is, there may be issues with uneven charging, incompatibility with different types of batteries, etc... I, personally, wouldn't risk it for a couple dollars...

u/stuck_in_here · 3 pointsr/flashlight

Well I don't know what it is and I'm not a fan of in-cell charging. Here's a charger that's good and popular:

What I do for all my lights is buy 2 batteries and keep a charged spare. When one runs out I swap in the charged spare and recharge the other and put it away into its box.

Good luck!

u/meechy704 · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Don't charge your batteries via USB.. get an external battery charger to charge your batteries. For example, something like this

u/shiekhgray · 3 pointsr/DIY

If you need them to run at night, you need to spec a battery that will last at least 10 hours, so you'll need to be able to charge that battery and run your camera during the day. A quick google looks like you'll need 1A at 12v. Thus you should need about a 12amp hour battery (Amazon sells 6amphr batteries for exactly this, so I could be over-engineering everything again) You'll need to be able to really charge it in about 8 hours, so you'll need a solar panel that can put out 2 amps at 12v, give or take. Thats 24 watts, which should run you about 70$. You'll probably also want a charge controller so you don't fuck up the battery; most of those 13000mah batteries are USB which run at 5v instead of 12, so you might need to get a couple of capacitors and a big 7805 voltage regulator. Someone with real solar experience can tell you how much of the day you'll actually get all 24w out of your panel, but if it's a cloudy day IDK if you'll ever hit it. Good luck!

u/FishesInTheOcean · 3 pointsr/bmpcc

Yes :) here they are:

Handle: link

Mounting plate: link

Manfrotto Quick Release Plate : link

Follow focus: link

Rods(16" & 6") link

Handlegrip: link

Lens support: link

Shoulder pad: link

Rod clamp: link

Cold Shoe mount: link

To hold the battery I used this rod clamp: link and this plate: link

Battery: link

To connect the battery to the BMPCC 4k I used these cables and the charging cable from the camera to make an adapter: link to cables

Magic arm to hold the monitor: link

Samsung SSD 500gb: link

SSD holder: link

Monitor: link

HDMI cable: link

BMPCC 4k cage: link

I'm using the Sigma 18-35mm (Nikon) and the Viltrox 0.71X Lens Mount Adapter: link

I think that's it :)

u/RouletteZoku · 3 pointsr/funkopop

I have those lights. Here they are in a Michael's baseball bat display case, running on a rechargeable battery. Specifically this battery. They're surprisingly bright. That was just a test setup to get an idea of what the case would look like.

I've got a glow case that I started working on today. Seen here using these UV LEDs

u/tbenz9 · 3 pointsr/telescopes

I'm not exactly sure what phpdevster is referring to. When I align my Nexstar 6SE I can pick the stars I want to align to. So even if I have a limited amount of sky I can pick 3 stars and it'll align perfectly.

As for the portable battery unit, I use the one below and it works perfectly!

u/Beegeezee505 · 3 pointsr/diysound

Thanks! So, I use this battery.

Then i gut the case until the only thing left is the battery pack and the red and black leads hanging off of the battery protection circuit.

Then I wire one of these plugs into the enclosure so that I can charge the battery using the adapter that comes with the battery pack. I suppose if I was desperate I could use the plug that came with the battery, but it's a square, and it's much easier to drill a round hole in a box than to cut a small square. Unless you're Richie McBallercash and have a CNC laying around.

u/vomitHatSteve · 3 pointsr/CircuitBending

I usually just recycle an old DC power adapter. The math is really easy. Count the A* batteries and multiply by 1.5 to get voltage.

If you wanna be really fancy, get a bunch of these:

u/Syphor · 3 pointsr/talesfromtechsupport

Different size barrels, yes, but those multi-output adapters usually have a switch that picks what voltage it actually puts out. I've seen a bare few which have the voltage setting as part of the tip, but almost none do that because the form factor is typically not related to the voltage at all. (Well, larger does tend to go with higher voltage, but there's no standard for this at all.)

Random example:

Though most I'm seeing now seem to use rotating switches; they used to all use a flat sliding one, heh.

u/provia · 3 pointsr/analog

120 isn't more expensive per roll than 135, you just pay more per shot which isn't the worst.

that said i had a friend with many very broken chinese made Seagull TLRs so he turned a few of them into flower pots (just use the waist level finder for that) or, which i like more, into a desk lamp. You can use the tripod thread to make a little stand for it, set the camera to bulb and throw an LED spot behind the taking lens. all you then need is a little transformer and some simple wiring and you're in Pinterest heaven! it won't even damage the camera as the heat output from the LEDs won't be too much. you can even dim it with the aperture lever.

u/CaptainCaaavemaaan · 3 pointsr/retrogaming

I did something like that for my Lego shelf. Used some LED strips and a motion sensor module to keep it all automatic. I had no idea what I was doing and bought a bunch of stuff I didn't need, but...

  • LED Strip - $7
  • Cable to run the power across the shelf - $8 (should've just used some spare cabling I had...)
  • Motion detector - $10
  • Power plug - $8

    And if you're comfortable soldering, that's pretty much all you need to get something up and running. But I wanted to make it all modular so I could take it apart and set it back up without too much hassle. So I ended up buying adapters and coaxial power cable things:

  • Ribbon to coaxial adapter - $5
  • Coaxial to regular 'ol cable adapater - $7
  • Power splitter - $6.50

    I'm pretty sure I did it as inefficiently and cost ineffective as possible because I have severe amazon impulse control issues and just buy shit to get started on fun projects. I'm sure with a little more research/guidance you could do it a little cheaper. But I'm happy with my setup for now.

    and here's a picture of the shelf. The shelf is terrible, and it's all a wreck because I'm in the middle of moving, but it shows the brightness pretty well. Oh and I have about a 1/4 roll of LEDs left, so I'd guess 2 or 3 rolls would take care of your shelf.
u/mareksoon · 2 pointsr/Austin

The splitter was needed because you probably wanted to get the coax to both your FM receiver and the TV or set top cable box. It was nothing more than a simple coax splitter.

However, you'd also need a matching transformer to convert coax at 75ohm into the two leads for your receiver's external FM antenna at 300ohm.

At least, I think that's how I did it. :-)

Alcade looks like a good source for future research. I noticed KTSB and KVRX matched hits in many different issues, and while perusing those parts, adjacent articles also looked interesting.

I went to ACTV studios one evening when Dean Langston was doing his dating show, Singles Hotline. I have part of one of those on VHS somewhere. I never directly participated in the show, that I remember, but ended up going out a few times with the chalkboard girl he had on the show that same night tallying contestant answers. It looks like he passed away in 2001. Here's a clip of him ... previewing VR (which I'm pretty sure has been posted here before).

When We Were Live was dropping ACTV videos on here (/u/ArchiveAlias/), but I haven't seen them in awhile. Here's their youtube.

I watched hours of Ask Livia LIVE! ... or maybe she was just on TV in the background while I talked to friends on the phone all night, because that's what we did.

u/MarzMan · 2 pointsr/cordcutters

Could help. I'd try making sure it's pointed almost straight east first, since that's where most of your signals should be coming from, and seeing if you get any signal from NBC.

Also if you have a Stereo with an antenna input you can get one of these doohikeys and connect it to that roof antenna for extra reception.

Edit: Forgot, we had an issue similar to this in my old house. One of our TVs would not pick up a certain channel. I think it was either NJN or maybe ABC, can't remember now. Every other TV would get it and have quite high signal strength but that TV would see no signal at all. It did have an extra maybe 30ft of wire from my TV to that TV and that wire was very very old so that could have played a part but it was only 1 channel that it lost which is so bizarre. Never could figure out why, we even hooked up another indoor antenna with no luck.

u/DiDgr8 · 2 pointsr/cordcutters

It's usually the big expensive Tv's that don't have an antenna option. If your cheap little TV is so old that it only has an analog tuner, it may have a twin lead 300 ohm connector instead of 75 ohm coaxial connection. Then you might need an adapter like this

As for an internet backup, I have cable at home and my cell phone can turn on as a cellular hotspot. They aren't going out at the same time. My cable was out during Hurricane Irma (along with my power) for three days. I wasn't streaming video, but I was checking email and downloading ebooks. I take that back. I did stream video some. I would sit in my car for about an hour a day running the engine for A/C and watching the local TV stations livestream.

u/funderbunk · 2 pointsr/VintageApple

The Apple II has a composite video output - but you need an RF modulated signal for your tv. So, you can take the composite video signal to an RF modulator, like this one. If your television doesn't have a coaxial antenna input, you'll also need an antenna matching transformer, like this one.

u/VA7EEX · 2 pointsr/amateurradio

The dipoles are connected with a c/137MHz/4*VF piece of RG8X soldered on, then a 4:1 tv balun was soldered on so I could easily hook coax up. The impedance matching suuuucks horribly, and I would have a better antenna without the 4:1 balun, but it was quick and dirty and it works.

u/Hookerlips · 2 pointsr/watercooling

Read sidebar, etc.
Use compatibility checker to confirm your choice of card will work with the blocks that you have picked out.
Putting blocks on a card is not that tough.
Always leak test! Make sure you get some secondary psu for running the pump. I use

  1. please really rethink that Deathstalker and tiamat purchase. If you must have razer products, the blackwidow is mechanical and is a much better purchase.

  2. Pump - D5 - read sidebar but all you really need to know. I would personally get one with either pwm or usb control. Vario is also an option.

  3. tubing - size - really doesn't matter as long as tubing, fittings, and equipment are all compatible. Ie G1/4 threads, 1/2" outer diameter tubing and 1/2" fittings

  4. tubing - variety - assume you are using flexible tubing - which i haven't picked up any for a bit ( using rigid now) so ask others about this but there is one without plastisizer issues and that is the one that you will want.

  5. monitors- nice choice, although are you aware the asus rog swift (144hz 1440p ) monitor should be shipping anytime Q2? its going to be a huge step up in terms of lightboost 2, color reproduction ( they say ) and pixel density all while keeping silky smoothness . also gsync

  6. psu - might be overkill for two cards, also I am not sure that the evga is the quietest

  7. also with the processor/mobo, you know that x99 will be out this summer, right? lots of improvements but something to consider...
u/codenamegamma · 2 pointsr/techsupportmacgyver

there are power supplies that will give you a molex on the end. that might be your only option.

u/DZCreeper · 2 pointsr/buildapc

To power the setup you will want an AC to DC converter of some sort. You could use a spare computer power supply but something more compact will work just as well. You will want a fan controller to handle the fan and pump speed, running them direct on 12V will keep them full speed and loud.

To keep things compact you may want to buy or fabricate a box to hold the radiators. Hang them on the sides with the fans drawing air through the top and blowing through the rads. The pump and reservoir could either go inside or attach to one of the two unused sides. - Pre-made and awesome but fairly expensive.

Make sure you get quick disconnect fittings and place them on the lines just outside your case for easy separation.

Get proper fans for your radiators. EK Vardar F4-120ER are about the best that money can buy.

Don't be sloppy with the wiring. Use pre-made connections, or use solder and heat shrink tubing.

u/CollateralFortune · 2 pointsr/homelab

I'm sort of toying with putting something like you are talking about together. Here's my part list

  • Two SFF-8088 to 4xSATA cables for one of my 9200-8e. I already have one of the cables.
  • Two of [these] ( enclosures.
  • Something like this for power

    A crimped molex->2xSATA power adaptor. The only reason I haven't jumped on it is because of the power supply. Most of the external Molex power supplies don't have the best power regulation on them, so it could be dangerous to use for drives.
u/nivek_c · 2 pointsr/pcmods

if you can solder this is simple.

step 1: purchase fans and LED light strip you want to use

step 2: add together the amperage for both fans and the strip (assuming theyre all running off 12v)

step 3: purchase 12v ac adaptor (also known as a wall wart) that is rated for the combined amperage of your fans and led strip

step 4: solder yellow wires from fans and red wire from led strip to the positive lead coming off of the wall wart. make sure to cover the connection with heat shrink tubing.

step 5: solder black wires from fans and led strip to negative wire on the wall wart. make sure to use heat shrink again to insulate the connection.

step 6: plug it in and test it out. provided you did your math correctly, insulated the solder joints, and didnt solder anything in the wrong place, you should be done.

edit: there is only one premade adaptor ive ever seen for this purpose, and its a 2a maximum current rating. i do not think that will suffice for what youre trying to do, but this why step 2 is so important (it will let you know if you can get away with using the premade adaptor). if you can use the premade adaptor, then you will still need to buy/make a splitter since the premade adaptor only has one 4 pin molex connection on it

link to premade adaptor


u/codepony · 2 pointsr/watercooling

I use one of these, great for testing lots of stuff.

u/endertux · 2 pointsr/watercooling

I have one of these that I use when filling my loop. Works with my Liang D5 vario pump.

u/LightShadow · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

My solution that I'm testing this weekend is using a AC -> DC Molex power adapter like this.

Split the Molex into its 5v and 12v rails and power each from both.

This allows for a molex "plug" in the back without sticking the power supply inside the unit as well :)

u/flamecmndrlaharl · 2 pointsr/pcmods

There's a 2A one over here on Amazon

u/rtf2 · 2 pointsr/funny

Some A/V equipment has power out and all you need is the right adapter. Otherwise, something like this works well enough. Pricing varies a lot with adapters, so digging around might find you a better deal.

u/Nexdeus · 2 pointsr/watercooling

This is great for filling and re-filling your res with a top entrance.

This is a nice item to have for powering on pumps without a PSU.

I used these to cut and clean my PETG tubing.

u/Retrosmith · 2 pointsr/pcmods

Something with Molex power already on it?

How about this?

u/gschizas · 2 pointsr/Amstrad


  • Most cables come from Retrocables. Specifically, it's an RGB-SCART Amstrad CPC cable, which converts the DIN video plug of 6128 and the audio out plug to a SCART plug, which connects to most TVs. I also got a molex-to-power cable - both 5V and 12V, so that I can power my CPC without the monitor.
  • The SD Floppy emulator comes from Lotharek in Poland (so if you're in the EU, there's no customs).
  • The power brick comes from Amazon - it's a standard Molex power adapter. I also got a cable extension, to give power to both the SD Floppy emulator (which uses a 3.5"-floppy-like power connector) and the CPC.
  • The floppy cable is a plain standard floppy cable. It came from my drawers :)
u/limitz · 2 pointsr/watercooling

> Most people don't want to buy a second PSU just for powering a loop.

You don't have to buy a full PSU though. You can find a PSU with a molex head for powering the loop on Amazon, $12.

Really helps when filling/flushing the loop.

u/MrModMan · 2 pointsr/SpaceBuckets

If you don't mind spending a few extra bucks you can go with something like this.

u/keeptrackoftime · 2 pointsr/Cooking

How about this one? It's priced pretty well too compared to the foreign models. It doesn't have a microwave though. Otherwise:

  1. If you just want to use superheated steam, buy a pressure cooker or use a spray bottle or a tray full of water with your normal oven, depending on what you're making.

  2. If you're set on importing one of those, buy a voltage converter. Looks like everything is under 1500W.

u/chiefeh · 2 pointsr/neogeo

Yep, I bought this one and use it for my Japanese consoles with no issues:

u/scubascratch · 2 pointsr/synthesizers
u/ultimanium · 2 pointsr/headphones

The model should have the voltage it's designed for one it, I believe.
Many were sold for american markets.
I'm not sure how picky the srd-6 is, if it was designed for certain voltages, or a range.
I don't have mine on me to check if it's labelled.
I do remember people on head-fi saying they plug it in to american outlets just fine, but it might shorten it's life if it's not meant for it.
You're best bet is to search the 1000 page stax thread on head-fi.
Diffidently not European.
I use this converter

Also, I take it you won that auction that just went for 111?

u/bannable17 · 2 pointsr/vaporents

this battery charger can actually extend the life of the batteries. Which die sooner the more you run them near empty. Unlike the old NiCad batteries from the 80's, running to nothing is a BAD thing!

Your charger is an improvement on the included one at least :)

Also you should mention the UFO, which allows you to turn anything into a bong. A cup, from anywhere. A mug. Whatever.

Finally the official Glyph batteries work a lot better than those Powerex do.

u/biosehnsucht · 2 pointsr/xboxone

As many have said, go with Eneloops. But also get a good charger.

I recommend (I use) the La Cross Technology BC-700 Alpha - It charges 4 at a time, each separately (generally good for improved live time of the batteries vs most chargers that do 2 or 4 on one charge channel, but NECESSARY for charging anything individually or 3 or other odd numbers, such as you might get with rock band instruments ...)

edit: the PowerEx MH-C9000 recommended below by others should do all the same things as the one I linked as well.

edit2: Actually I have the BC-900(9) pack that came with batteries and travel case, the difference being the 900 has higher charge rate options.. but I never use them, so the 700 will work as well. The BC-900(9) appear to be discontinued.

u/leroy_twiggles · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

This La Crosse Charger gets among the best reviews on Amazon for chargers, but there are quite a few 1-star reviews that say it has melted or starts fires. Lots of 5-star reviews, but saying "this product probably won't burn your house down" isn't good enough for me.

I own two Maha chargers, this and this one both are excellent. I had my first C401FS break; they sent me a replacement with no charge, so I'm very happy with their service. Not a Buy-it-for-life quality product, not many electronics are, but they make the best stuff in this category.

u/Matchstix · 2 pointsr/flashlight

I finally bought some Enloop rechargeables. They're a nice entry into the rechargeable world, and just as safe as regular batteries. They come in a whole bunch of different configurations on Amazon. The standard charger is OK, but this charger is where it's at.

u/Rolker · 2 pointsr/livesound

I found Ni-MH rechargeables to be fairly unreliable, not due to the batteries themselves but with the bodypacks' battery indicators. Due to the wide variety of Ni-Mh batteries on the market that all have different characteristics that will affect their performance, especially how they are charged over their usable lifetime, it's pretty difficult to get a good readout on just how much juice you have left with any given set of batteries. Shure has documented this difficulty and their battery life estimates for Ni-MH batteries vary widely. I can only imagine that other manufacturers face the same difficulties.

You can help alleviate this by manually gathering data yourself from the battery through the use of a smart charger that will also help you keep the battery life stable if used to charge properly. But even with this insight on hand, I was having a hard time relaying the info to performers who tended to freak out when their batteries go from a full 5 bars and then the battery indicators suddenly start tanking. I had seen a graph (From PowerStream's own tests) and read some info (That I can't recall the links of off hand, but I remember reading on flashlight websites and forums) that indicated with Ni-Mh a steady voltage over a certain time period with a sharp drop off of voltage near it's end of life depending on the power draw. That tracked pretty well with my use with the Shure bodypacks which would indicate a full 4-5 bars over a short time period and then rapidly go down to 2 bars. Contrast that with off-the-shelf AA and proprietary Li-Ion batteries which have a fairly consistent set of characteristics and a steady, smooth voltage drain that leads to a predictable battery life that manufacturers are able to tune for in their battery indicator algorithms.

Edit: And that claim on the radio transmissions sounds like BS to me unless they're just referencing possibly poorer transmitter/receiver performance as the batteries die out.

u/PCMasterCucks · 2 pointsr/xboxone

I use the LaCrosse BC 700, which is a little cheaper and has basically the same functions.

It only goes up to 700 ma which would take a lot longer to charge, but I would argue that the OP should just get 8 batts that are Low Self Discharge, so that there's always a charged pair ready to go.


Just an aside: back on 360, I had 6 batteries going in rotation for 6 years because of the refresh feature.

When I got an Xbox One, I got used them still but the high batt usage made it unfeasible. I got those black Amazon AAs, which are trash and died 2 years down the line regardless of refreshing. Currently Eneloops are around 2 years old now and still keep a good charge.

u/vapeducator · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

While you can use that charger for AA, it's much better to get a charger specifically for them like the BC-700. This charger has many important features besides recharging. It can tell you about the health of individual batteries by measuring the real capacity with multiple discharge/charge cycles. It can restore weak or older cells in some cases. It can tell you when batteries needs to be replaced. I own one that I bought 5 years ago and I use it all the time. I got tired of cheap chargers that couldn't tell me the actual condition batteries. Most chargers will merely blink an LED to indicate that it can't charge the battery, with no info about why I couldn't do so.

It works great for xbox controllers to get much longer runtime between charges. Often you'll get much shorter battery life when one of the cells of a pair is weak, but you don't know which one is the problem or exactly how weak it may be. I would pick two strong cells to keep as a matched set.

u/Conrpnc · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Go with these and this. I'm sure there are better deals to be found, I just went for the easy links.

EDIT: Sorry, that first link should have been to just the batteries not the pack with the charger. Point is Eneloops and a good charger.

u/Kahnza · 2 pointsr/mflb

4-5 hits and I'm feeling pretty good. I've found that the most important factor, is the battery. Like how long to hold the battery before attempting to sip. And knowing how often and how much to sip to keep a good temp. And that as you vape a trench and use up the battery, it takes longer.

Also, about charging them. I don't recommend using the charger that came with your mflb. I know with mine the batteries got really hot with it. I have This One that I got from Amazon. Its fantastic.

u/HERD_ · 2 pointsr/flashlight

[WTS] Battery chargers & batteries

Package: $32 shipped to continental USA. A Lacrosse BC-700 charger, a Energizer AA/AAA charger, a AA Storacell battery holder, and ~20 old batteries (most of the batteries are probably bad & are just included as a freebie).

  • BC700- can charge/discharge/test/refresh NIMH & NICAD AA/AAA batteries up to 700ma. Buttons are hard to push like a watch's buttons, but works well.
  • 5 Imedions, 2 generic, the rest are old Energizers which are probably junk. Haven't used them much since getting Eneloops
  • The 2 HHR 450A batteries are not included


    $14 shipped - 2x Panasonic HHR 450A (brand new, 1.2v 4.2AH 'A' size). bought them for a project but they were too big.
u/parametrek · 2 pointsr/india

The La Cross BC-700 with diagnostic capabilities that can measure battery health. Though my BC-700 was half the price of what Amazon is charging for it right now.

My family uses the Panasonic chargers that I linked before.

u/JTBold · 2 pointsr/gaming

Agreed! Especially low self-discharge NiMH batteries like the Sanyo Eneloop, along with a La Crosse charger.

u/astrangeone88 · 2 pointsr/tamagotchi

It's a different type of chemistry for batteries. The old ones I grew up with are NICAD (nickel cadmium)....and the slightly newer tech is NIMH. No leaking and not as much self-discharge.

I use La Crosse ( chargers + AmazonBasics high capacity AAA rechargeables.

You can start out with the Duracell/Energerizer brands (they have packs that come with the charger and batteries), but the charger is slightly bad quality (eg. charges them too quickly, and damages them in the long run).

If you make the change to rechargeables, you can do the entire house (remotes, tamas/whatever).

u/headspawn · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Hey there, I'd definitely recommend Eneloops as well, I've been using them for about 4-5 years now.

I personally use the Panasonic Eneloop Pro's. The higher capacity is nice, you get a bit more mileage which for only a bit more money. The other brand I had in the past, but lost them around the house were Sanyo Eneloop XX. Overall the Panosonics are better as far as price and have bit more juice in them as well.

Pair an 8-pack of batteries with a good charger.

My charger is this one:

Might be a bit of overkill, but I like all the smart charge features and options: autoshutoff/discharge/automated discharge then recharge/, it allows though you could easily find something cheaper; just make sure it's compatible with this type of battery.

Just make sure if you're shopping for bargin's on the batteries and you'll find them I'm sure, is that you're buying legit Eneloops. Believe it or not there are plenty of knock-offs or just busted brands that try to cash in.

u/applesandpearls · 2 pointsr/peacecorps

I brought my 3DS! Cambodia uses 220v power, and the 3DS requires 120v, so if you're going to plug it into the wall, you'll need a voltage converter. I brought this one and it has been great. Your other option is to only charge it via USB cord through your computer, or through an external battery pack.

As far as Cambodian outlets go, 2-pronged American or European plugs will fit in any outlet. This is what my outlet (and most outlets) looks like. If you've got 3 pronged things, you'll need a 3-to-2 adapter. I plug the above mentioned converter into my wall (two pronged), and then plug my power strip into that (3 pronged), so I have plenty of outlets for 3 pronged things. If you're planning to travel outside Cambodia, one of those international adapters would be handy.

u/exekutor · 2 pointsr/chile

In Chile we have 220v outlets, while ya'll have 110v outlets. Before using this adapters you have to make sure that your device says 110~240.

This'll do:

Something fancier (i have this exact same one):

State-of-the-art travel adapter:

If you need 220v to 110v conversion you gonna need this baby:

I hope it helps. Cheers.

edit: Is your screen name an Opeth reference?

u/OGCook · 2 pointsr/gaming

$13.49 first result.

So that's a fix for under $20 that you can get through amazon. Interesting....

u/Rekt_itRalph · 2 pointsr/vaporents

After looking online with local stores I ended up just buying off amazon. I'll have to wait about a week or so for delivery but I'll have my dynavap til then. This is what I went with, hopefully it works lol


u/cinepro · 2 pointsr/hometheater

The subwoofer output is going to be mono, so you only need the one output. Connect it to either speaker-level input on your subwoofer and you should be fine.

If for some reason that doesn't work out (I've never actually used speaker-level inputs on a sub before), the other option would be to use one of these to convert the speaker-level output to an RCA-level and use the RCA input on the subwoofer.

u/9999dave9999 · 2 pointsr/sonos

You can if you connect this to the speaker outputs. link

u/Umlautica · 2 pointsr/audiophile

You can use the two together but it would be a bit of a hack. You would have to use something like this PAC line out converter which has compromises. You're much better off getting a dedicated phono stage such as Behringer Microphono.

u/CBarberena · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Okay then what I would do is buy a guitar headphone amp they are cheap like less then $20 USD, and plug it into the out for the fx loop, and your headphones into that. This only utilizes the preamp portion of you amp but it is probably the most cost effective. If you do this and the guitar headphone amp has a gain option turn that all the way down. A similar option to this would be to plug your fx out into a DAW or some kind of audio mixer this would also give you the option to record yourself on a computer without being effected by room acoustics. If you want to you can use the other output but that will damage your headphones unless you buy a line level converter. Then the analog from the converter to a headphone amp, and from there to your headphones. This would require you to do some simple wireing, but hey if your up for it why not try.
I also want you to make sure you know the people on this thread including me are NOT professionals and you should do you own research and only do what you feel comfortable doing with your money and equipment.
If you would like to do more research here is a good place to start.
Also here are links to example of the things I mentioned
Guitar headphone amp - Monoprice 611500 Mini Headphone Amplifier for Guitar, Clean
Electro-Harmonix Headphone Amp Portable Practice Amp
DAW - Focusrite Scarlett Solo (2nd Gen) USB Audio Interface with Pro Tools | First
Mixer - Behringer Xenyx 302USB Mixer
Line level converter - PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter
Hope I helped in some way and hope you find your solution!

u/ampsby · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Yes, The new amp only has speaker level out.

IF you wanted to go this way

use one of these on the subwoofer out of the new amp

and use an RCA to 3.5mm adapter to pug this into the controller, only the low end will go into the controller now

u/hfmutlu · 2 pointsr/BuildaCarAVForMe

Not sure what you decided to go with but IMO if you get a sub in your trunk then your speakers will sound like they're better. Many people on this subreddit will bash this recommendation but I'll give it anyway.

$150 prebuilt subwoofer box

$55 amplifier

$15 wiring kit

$9 optional converter

The converter is needed if your radio is stock. I also think it makes the install easier regardless as it is one set less wire to run & you won't have to take apart your headunit.

I think this is the best intro level set up for a subwoofer if you're looking to spend about $220.
It will definitely impress you if you haven't heard/had bass in a car before. Also very easy to set up and you can do it in about 3 hours with no experience.

Edit: forgot this amp comes with a built in high/low converter to feed straight off the speakers. Converter may be easier but is optional.

u/iball2016 · 2 pointsr/CarAV

If u want 2 subs which I would recommend, you can get 2 mtx tn 12 inside a premade box for 150, then buy that same Rockford amp and a wire kit and if u have a stock headunit, a loc

subs and box
wire kit
line out converter, if u don't have rca's from headunit

This is the best bang for your buck and its relatives super cheap, the is practically what I have expect I fucked up and didn't get the premade box. If your not looking to win competitions but want cheap loud good bass, get these

u/raider2016 · 2 pointsr/FordFocus

Tint I would definitely recommend a professional for sure, I know places around me do it relatively "cheap" for 150-160 and a lifetime warranty.

Window switches no idea, won't even bother commenting.

Sub is not very difficult. I added mine with the stock headunit w/sync w/o nav or MFT. It costs about 20 dollars for a LOC and a remote turn on switch.

Wiring harness isn't needed as I just used vampire clips (absolutely no idea what they're called all I know is they just clip into existing wires without splicing, they work perfect.)

I found a wiring diagram online for my particular model of HU and spliced into the two right and left sides of the speaker line outs and hooked it up the LOC and found a ant out turn on on the radio that would trigger the 12v out when the car would turn on and turn off when the car turned off.

It is my understanding there is an all in one however I don't know which one it is and I'll just link the two I used. I know what I did worked flawlessly and has for the past 8 or so months.

Obviously after that you'll need a wiring harness and sub/amp whatever else. I have found that high volume levels 20+ tend to cut the sub out completely and I'm not sure if it has to do with the HU doing that or my set up. My guess would be the stock HU doing that to try and attempt to save the stock speakers.

Remote turn on module:

LOC converter:

u/John2Nhoj · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Receivers like this aren't usually designed to feed power amps other than an active sub-woofer, with it's own built in amp. It's to be expected, for convenience sake that everything needed, including the amplifier is contained in that one box.

Power amps on the other hand are more for people who prefer to build a system using separates. Separate amp(s), separate tuner etc., and using a pre-amp (some have tuners built in and others don't) as a switching station, volume control etc., for all of the separate components.

The only thing I can recommend is to use a speaker to line level converter. Here is an inexpensive model for example of what it is sake.

This will connect to the speaker terminals of your receiver instead of speakers and will convert that signal to a line level signal needed to feed your power amp. The receiver will still control the volume etc.

If you are going to use the Fisher STV-893 towers as your front L&Rs for the 5.1 Pioneer VSX-521 system then those are the speaker terminals you want to use the "speaker to line level converter" on.

u/ocinn · 2 pointsr/audiophile


NHT SuperOne 2.1/ Super Zero 2.1

JBL 530 (if you can find it), if not JBL 230

Martin Logan 15



AudioSource Amp100vs


Martin Logan Dynamo 300 (and other models)

SVS PB/SB 1000

SVS PB/SB 2000

You might need this:
To use a sub that doesn't have speaker level ins.

Any of these combos would work very well. I would prob. Get the Martin Logan 15s and the AudioSource, and the Dynamo 300 (or one of the SVS if you can afford it).

u/MistaAndyPants · 2 pointsr/onebag

This is about as tiny as you can get: Kikkerland UL03-A Universal Travel Adapter

u/kingkake · 2 pointsr/onebag

I have one and the one time I tried to use it in Malaysia it didn't really work so great.

u/Leftium · 2 pointsr/seoul

Just get a travel plug adapter before you leave.

I use this one (converts any country to any country):

Here's a less fancy product that only works USA-to-Korea:

u/a_nun_mouse · 2 pointsr/dogemining

Someone recommended this once.

So I'm assuming it's the right connector.

u/crossfires · 2 pointsr/vaporents

This is what I’ve been including with all of my recent builds:

I’ve had a lot of problems with the cheapo eBay junk.

u/euThohl3 · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

I've bought a few of these -- they're pretty good for $9:

Battery chargers can be weird. They don't just output some voltage, they follow a charging algorithm for batteries, which isn't what you want to power a simple load.

u/jagedlion · 2 pointsr/DIY

If you really don't want to buy anything, you could power that off an old computer power supply. On the big connector, short the green wire to a black wire, so the power supply turns on when switched on, and from one of the power connectors, connect a yellow (+12V) to your positive, and the black to your ground.

Granted, 12V 6A power supplies are $10 with prime shipping from amazon. So that might make more sense.

Edit: for example

u/Liquidretro · 2 pointsr/litecoinmining


I bought one of these a few weeks back to power 1 gridseed. At the time it was a prime item and about $8 works great

u/SuperMar1o · 2 pointsr/oculus

I heard the subpac was good too, as was the buttkicker. But the subpac is expensive and the buttkicker was sold out lol so I bought the budget tactile feedback rig (Recommended by another /r/oculus member.) which included these three things. It also took a few wires and some tweaking but after mounting it to a chair, I love it

u/ILikeBigAZ · 2 pointsr/SpaceBuckets

I am hardly an expert, but I have been researching this too. The cheapest DIY option I have found are the $5 light strips from Hong Kong, the 5630 SMD LEDs, These need to be powered with 72W power supplies, that sell on Amazon for about $8.

u/IntHatBar · 2 pointsr/malelivingspace

Note, You'll also need a 12v power supply like this...

u/broken42 · 2 pointsr/airsoft

For the a little bit more OP could get this charger and this lipo. It's a little more expensive but in the long run it will be cheaper because you can get lipos off of Hobbyking for WAY less than you can NiMH batteries.

u/w1redweird0 · 2 pointsr/radiocontrol

More info such as battery type, size, or connector would be helpful.

I've got one of these and it works great.

Combo Special: Tenergy TB6-B Balance Charger for NiMH/NiCD/Li-PO/Li-Fe Battery Packs + Power Supply

If you only have one type of battery or much smaller batteries, there are definitely cheaper options.

u/Monkeybomb374 · 2 pointsr/airsoft

I use the tenergy tb6b I really recommend it even though it does cost a bit with it you're not limited to just lipos or what type of connector it has it comes with a octopus cable (not sure what to call it) but it allows you to basically charge any type of battery with it you can program the charger to work with any battery too!
amazon link

u/spaceman_josh · 2 pointsr/radiocontrol

I would recommend getting a real hobby balance charger, one that can handle multiple chemistries. If you have any desire to continue in the hobby it is a worthy investment. If originally got this charger. If I were to start again, I would have either bought a two channel charger or a higher wattage charger so I could parallel charge since I have more batteries and some high-capacity 6S batteries.

u/TomTheGeek · 2 pointsr/radiocontrol
u/MISFITofMAGIC · 2 pointsr/multicopterbuilds

I think this kit might be a better deal. I have the same kit and it's wonderful. Flys my gopro/gimbal, amp data link, and a 2200lipo just fine (6 min flight times).

I love my APM boards, and would recommend one in a second. But save your money now, that's something you can upgrade later. Get off the ground with a cheaper FC and see how everything goes.

Edit: Charger I own 2, they work well -

u/LowBerryy · 2 pointsr/airsoft

I personally use the Tenergy TB6-B which looks like the B6. Balance chargers are great

u/TheTim · 2 pointsr/ElectricSkateboarding

That was really hard for me to parse, so I made this formatted list, with links and current prices (in USD via Amazon):

Component | Item | Price
motor | Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 6364-190kv Brushless Outrunner Motor | $176
motor speed controller | Castle Creations Mamba Max Pro 1/10 Brushless ESC with SMARTSENSE | $116
remote control | Spektrum 2322 DX2E 2-Channel DSMR Surface Radio System | $70
battery | Turnigy 5000mAh 6S 20C Lipo Pack | $50
battery charger | Tenergy TB6-B Balance Charger for NiMH/NiCD/Li-PO/Li-Fe Battery Packs + Power Supply | $58
deck | ??? | ?
trucks | Paris V2 180mm Longboard Trucks Black | $45
wheels | Orangatang Kegel 80mm 80a Orange Longboard Wheels Set of 4 | $60
motor gear | 16t pinion gear | ?
wheel gear | 36t drive wheel gear | ?
drive belt | ??? | ?
motor mount | welded motor mount | ?
| total price | $575

If you respond with links to the ? items I'll edit this and add them in.

u/HawalisGal · 2 pointsr/ecigclassifieds

They have the 4 bay on amazon for 16 dollars.

You can sign up for prime for 30 days free. Just remember to cancel it if you decide you don't want to keep it.

u/Sephorria · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Nitecore I4 is on sale on amazon for you prime owners, only $17.79.

u/HamGynecologist · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Get the mech you like the look of. You'll hear things like this one is better than that one because it has better plated contacts but unless you have a bunch of different mechs to compare it to than it really isn't going to make that much of a difference.

illuminationsupply has good batteries. I would recommend the sonys vtc5s

fasttech has very inexpensive mech clones

amazon has the best most inexpensive charger for only 15 dollars and free shipping with prime.

lightiningvape has some of the best prices on rebuildable supplies.

And that's pretty much all you need.

u/GobbleThisObelisk · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

$17.50 from amazon. Prime eligible.

u/cheech_sp · 2 pointsr/flashlight
u/pussifer · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I've owned a Vamo for almost the entire time I've been vaping, and I love it. Simple to use, gets what I want outta my juices, lotsa options, well-built, and cheap (you can get the SS V2 here for $33.14 (+ tax) shipped, but it does take about a week and a half to get to your door).

I love my efests, AWs, and Sanyos, and charge them all with a Nitecore i4 2nd gen. This setup has done me right for a long while now.

u/zifu · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

This charger is known to overcharge batteries (source: I used to use one). Get a Nitecore i4 or similar.

u/TechRice · 2 pointsr/Vaping101

For a coil kit that comes with a decent ohm meter.

And for a battery charger I use this:

Some people prefer the D4 over the I4; but I use the rx200 with vct4's and have no issue with the I4.

With that kit, you can also order some kanthal and start doing basic builds. Spend a little time on YouTube learning to build on your Atty and you'll get the hang of it in no time.

u/bazooked · 2 pointsr/Vaping

I think that review is mistaken. I just double checked with mine, and if you YouTube 'Mikevapes IPV5' he will confirm not USB chargeable. As far as charger I love my Nitecore I4, but there are a couple of great ones out there. Im just having a straight up brain fart on them (on little sleep this week).

u/MIDItheKID · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

The "My First RDA" Mechanical Mod Kit

Nemesis Clone Mechanical Mod - Great price, great features, an awesome place to start without breaking the bank.

Green Sony VTC4's - I would suggest at least 2, I prefer 4.

Nitecore Intellicharger i4 (Or the i2 if you only have 2 batteries) - Great premium safe charger. What's worth more? The few bucks you save on a cheapo charger, or your house which you burned down by overcharging your batteries on a cheapo charger.

IGO-W2 or IGO-W - The IGO-W is a go-to for many, however it will likely require drilling the air holes out. The W2 costs a few more bucks, and has a different pin configuration internally, but has adjustable airflow. If you go with the IGO-W, you will also need some kind of mini screwdriver. Here's a super cheap kit

A Drip Tip - You'll need one to go with your IGO, style is up to you. You can get them pretty much anywhere, I just linked to this store because if you are putting in an order there anyway, you may as well save on shipping.

That will get you setup with your mod/RDA. Now you are going to need your building materials. Here's what I suggest.

Rebuilding Materials

An Ohm Reader - Do not skip out on this. Knowing the resistance of your coils keeps you out of harms way.

28ga Kanthal - This seems to be the preferred gauge for RDA's.

Chefs torch - This isn't necessary, but is hugely helpful for making microcoils

This cheap grooming kit - What you need from this are the nail clippers, tweezers, and scissors (also the pouch it comes with is handy for keeping your rebuilding tools in)

Cotton Balls - You can get sterilized cotton from most pharmacies. I use plain old 100% cotton balls. Just make sure to read the package and check of additives. You don't want any makeup-remover or anything like that. Just pure cotton.

Drill Bit Kit - For wrapping your coils. 1/16th seems to be everybody's favorite standard, so if you're prone to losing small things this might be a better kit for you.

u/LittleBobby_Tables · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

No. Avoid them and most likely the charger your buddy has as well.

Some things just aren't worth skimping on. Get yourself an intellicharger i4 and a few IMR chemistry batteries by AW, Sony or Panasonic. That way if you ever move to mech mods, everything will work together safely.

u/phaed · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

If you like the Ego-Twist, then you're in for a treat. An Ego-Twist is pretty much near the bottom of the barrel when it comes to a satisfying experience.

Here I'm going to save you some time. This is what I would recommend as an upgrade. If you have money to spend, go straight for the Provari. It will soon become the go-to tool in your arsenal. Otherwise get yourself a good DNA-30 based box mod like a Hana Modz Clone or a Cloupor. Then get yourself a good rebuildable atomizer like the Kayfun or Taifun. The flavor and vapor production their style of atomizer produces is highly satisfying. They work via negative pressure so once you fill it you can pretty much forget it in your pocket and rest assured that its wont leak on you. Also I would recommend you get yourself a Genesis style Atomizer like the Kraken for while you're in the house, has a tank you can fill plus it has an exposed side on top where you can drip flavors on in case you want a taste of something new without cleaning out the tank. The pull on those is very loose and airy, so you can fill your lungs in as fast as you want, the faster the pull the colder the air. Different than the Kayfuns/Taifuns of the world which have a limit to how fast you can pull. Genesis style atomizers tend to be leaky so I wouldn't recommend it as "take to work" type atomizer.

You will also need some batteries, get yourself a pair of Sony VTC5 or Samsung 25R and a good charger. These allow for high discharge rates. Here is some info on that.

You will also need some Kanthal wire, 26 guage is good. And some cotton as you will need this to build the coils on the rebuildable atomizer. Youtube is your friend when it comes to how to build the coils.

u/Brown_eyed_pea · 2 pointsr/Canadian_ecigarette
u/Cloud_ChaZer · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Upon research within this sub you will find that charging with the onboard charger is highly unrecommended. Get a 3+ baay external charger. I have this one and love it. I dont have to get my lazy ass up to check my batteries, i can check them via Bluetooth on my Ipad.

However if your looking for a cheaper option try this,

u/jules_am · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I just looked this up on Amazon. It says it can do 18650, among other battery types, will 18350 work fine on it?

edit: nvm, looked at the faq and it answered my question :) thank you very much!!

u/ac1dicburn · 2 pointsr/flashlight

Do you have any recommendations on which 18650's and chargers to use? From searching around here I am looking at orbtronic 3500mAh 18650s and a NITECORE i4 charger.
Is there any reason these are a bad choice?

u/CaCHooKaMan · 2 pointsr/xboxone

I use the same charger that I use to charge my vape batteries

u/finalsleep3 · 2 pointsr/mflb

No, I'm pretty sure that is for a different battery chemistry. Check this out, this charger is the best I've used so far and I use it for e-cigs, the mflb, etc. It handles everything
Edit: I am a dumbass, yeah that would totally work, but I still strongly recommend that Nitecore. Don't fuck around with battery safety :)

u/descendus · 2 pointsr/Vaping

battery wise you'll hear a lot of different opinions from different people I have been using the same ones for a long time samsung 25 R. They come in blue and green. The type of battery they are is called an 18650 rechargeable vape battery. You will need a battery charger that works with the 18650's , I use a nitecore intellicharger , it charges all different sizes.

Now you will want at least 2 sets = 4 batteries , the mod uses 2 at a time. You can use one set while you charge the other set. If you have questions about anything else just let me know. Some other people might know where to get those items cheaper also , So , Keep your eye out.

u/anonym0ose · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Just make sure you get a good set of batteries for it, maybe 2 aw imr 18350s and 2 aw imr 18650s then get a good charger for them,I recommend the nightcore intelicharger to get all 4 charged at once and safely

u/rejctchoir · 2 pointsr/flashlight

Just a word of caution- I bought a keepower 14500 and got it stuck in my SC52W. There is a ton of variance when it comes to 14500 dimensions (even within brand/model). I had read reports of people using the keepower 14500, so I didn't give it a second thought. I pushed it in (like a dummy) and it pretty much jammed/vacuum locked in. I had to epoxy a nail to the end of the battery and pull it out like that. The amount of force tore the protection circuit from the end of the battery. Woof.

Anyway, Zebralight makes a 14500 with 840mah. That's the top capacity for a 14500 (a Sanyo cell). I would just get that! If you want to go cheaper, I know the trustfire 14500 cells fit.

And for a charger- do you have any other LiOn cells or lights that will take them? This charger is a good one and will charge pretty much every battery you have.

u/Kruithof · 2 pointsr/flashlight

A legitimate 3500+mAh battery will probably not be worth the extra price unless you absolutely need longer runtimes on a single cell. In most cases, the listed capacity is a total fabrication, luckily some nice folks do various tests to see the actual capacities of various cells. Here is one from 2012 and one done in 2011 is here.

I'm not familiar with the prices of all of those cells, there are a lot to choose from but I do know that the tenergy cells have decent capacity and are a pretty good value, here on amazon.

A charger that is a great value is the Nitecore i4, found for a very good price on amazon. It can only charge with a maximum of 750mA charge current which is a little lower than what is best, but it will do just fine. For maximum speed charging of 2 cells be sure to use different channels, #1 and #3 are paired as well as #2 and #4. So use combinations like #1 and #4, #1 and #2, #2 and #4, etc.

u/pandapanda730 · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

So, people are always talking about finding something to quit smoking, but you are on 0 nic now, and you still want to vape for fun. What do you want then?

The mod: Smoktech Magneto. This is a solid mod with a good price tag. this will net you the opportunity to try out some "sub-ohm rebuildables" and high wattage vaping.

Batteries: Samsung INR18650's. Some good batteries here, not the highest of the high end as far as batteries go, but extremely powerful, decent capacity, and for the newbie, great safety.

To charge your batteries: Nitecore i4. Super safe, solid charger. not much to say here.

For the clouds: Smoktech RSST. A lot of people really don't like dealing with stainless steel mesh, but inside of this tank, I get some of the best flavor I've ever had, better than the glorious cotton microcoils.

As far as juice goes, just buy what you already like in max VG to start. It's really the best vape experience out there. There's no loss in flavor at all, and with rebuildables, it's a match made in heaven.

u/tubeguy · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Lots of choices on each but you can't go wrong with this setup. I placed a fasttech order Saturday and just got the shipping notice. (pick a color) (the above uses unprotected 18650, 18500, 18490, 18350)

u/TheHotCoco · 2 pointsr/trees

Would you be interested in a portable vape that you could swap batteries on? Then you could charge 4 batteries and swap them out on a trip.

I'm kind of interested in designing my own vape.

u/ender4171 · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I'd get a charger first. I had a couple of trustfires when I first got into vaping and they are very poor quality (and borderline dangerous like /u/Jack_Shid pointed out). One of mine started buzzing and eventually shocked me. Grab a Nitcore I4. They are only $22 on Amazon, and qualify for Prime if you have it.

u/djrbx · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Fasttech is somewhat a reputable seller. They do sometimes have stock issues with their products but you'll still receive the item after a long wait. Keep in mind they are based in Hong Kong so expect the item to arrive in or around 1-2 weeks.

Also, I still recommend getting a better charger. To my knowledge, the charger that comes with the kit is just a basic charger with no safety cutoff/overcharge protection which can damage your batteries overtime. Here's a cheaper charger on Amazon instead of the Pila charger I posted earlier.

u/iskin · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Overcharging is what is most likely to cause a battery to fail.

The ego style batteries are going to mostly be safe as long as you use a proper charger. Don't let it charge over night or on a highly flammable surface. Don't push the button while it's charging.

The most worrying batteries are going to be the ones you can swap in and out of a mod like the Vamo, Kamry K100, etc. They are batteries like the 18650 or 18350 and use a good charger like the Nitecore IntelliCharger i4. You'll want to use a volt meter to check them when you take them from your charger to make sure they aren't charged over 4.2v.

Use a LipoSack while charging batteries for extra safety. You could also build a charging box. Don't pour water on your battery if it catches fire.

If you're still worried. Failure will most likely happen right off the charger (well, on the charger because that is when a fire is most likely), after it has been dropped, or if it has been in an area that is too hot or too cold. Don't use you're battery if you notice any dents or bulges. Hold it away from your face and give it a 3 count test fire away from your face while your device is fully put together after you take it off the charger or if you did something that worried you.

u/am-i-ginger · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

My 350s charge in an hour, sometimes less. I have this charger

It automatically stops charging when they're full, so I don't have to worry about exploding batteries =)

u/ExPwN · 2 pointsr/mflb


That's an 18650 battery charger, how does it not overcharge AA batteries?

u/pn23 · 2 pointsr/photography

Ouch, that totally blows. Yeah, like the others have suggested, the Sanyo Eneloops seem to be the best for flashes. The recycle time is extremely fast (from what I've noticed even when it's been popped a few hundred times). I've had my set of 4 for a few years now... didn't use it as much so I assumed it still held it's charge and still actually does!

Pick some up and grab a Nitecore Intellicharger battery charger for your rechargeable batteries.

u/Entstronaut · 2 pointsr/mflb

UK Amazon (op) or US Amazon?

Sorry for the slow reply >.<

u/stinkfoot70- · 2 pointsr/GrassHopperVape
u/muchswag · 2 pointsr/flashlight

Really appreciate all the help, but I have to admit, I lack a basic knowledge of electronics and worry I would have a hard time figuring out the second charger mentioned.
Is this the nitecore charger you were referring to?

u/elektr0soul · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Trust fire charger blows up:

Ultra fire charger explosion:

Amazon reviewer explains nitecore charger explosion:

To each his own,our hobby comes with inherent yet minor risks, no matter how we charge our cells. They are an imperfect power source.

u/PlasmaTune · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Most likely the charger, the NiteCore i4 is pretty cheap and will do well. If the Samsungs are bad return them, if you can't then has Sony VTC4s, 2 for $20.

And yes I'm the one who answered about your Dovpo also :)

u/RainHappens · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

Relatively simple option: get a buck power supply and connect the fans to them.

Something like this for instance.

Note that it has a minimum voltage drop.

u/djkrugger · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

If it is a prototype or a "one of a kind" use, i would go for a Buck converter module.

u/wolfcry0 · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

This thing is the most efficient way to do it

u/MommiesNewFriend · 2 pointsr/solar

I have found myself needing this board on multiple small solar projects.

u/eim1213 · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Do NOT buy these batteries for use in a mechanical mod. They have extremely low amp limit, high interal impedance, and unsafe battery chemistry. They're also expensive for what they are. Please do not buy these. Instead, pick up these: Charger, Batteries. You will be much safer and satisfied for the same cost! Feel free to PM with any questions.

u/reddanit · 2 pointsr/flashlight

With about $30 you can get some cheapest CR123 lights, like Fenix E15. At 170 lumens it's much brighter than just about any single AA light at this price range, while still being very compact.

Only issue specific to CR123 you need to be aware of is the much less common battery format itself. It limits you to using 3v lithium primaries that are no cheaper than $1.5 a piece or RCR123A Li Ion rechargeables - AW seem to be the most recommended ones and can be bought here for $6 a piece - you'd also need a charger for them bringing total initial cost into $40 range. Sticking to primaries is simpler but more expensive in the long run.

Personally I'd stick to AA lights trading off higher output of CR123 (or Li Ion in general) for better availability of primary (non rechargeable) cells and much less volatile chemistry of NiMH rechargeables. It depends on your goals - whether it needs to be more impressive or more reliable (my choice, also affects the quality level I'm not willing to go below).

As far as a proper recommendation would go: my own choice in that price range is Olight i3s EOS (I also bought eneloops and a charger for mine) - it's tiny, uses common battery format, has sufficient throw and brightness on high mode and decently dim moonlight. For your brightness focus though I'd go with either Fenix E12 - you can get AA cells in every corner of the world or E15 if you intend to use it closer to home/city and won't be fucked over by not being able to buy CR123 when you need them.

u/Mashulace · 2 pointsr/ECR_UK

I hate to point this out, but the Nitecore i2 is currently £10 on amazon brand new. May want to temper your expectations on price a little bit.

u/Nikon_Justus · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I would advise against that, any kit with the charger and batteries I have ever seen are crap batteries and crap charger.

Get yourself a reliable charger and some long lasting safe batteries

Also when you get the vamo make sure to get the Stainless Steel Vamo v5, the chromed brass ones are crap and the chroming will rub off and make your mod look like hell.

If by chance you think my advise is shit, here is a kit that I bought and learned all of the above the hard way.

u/tinyelefants · 2 pointsr/ecigclassifieds

If your planning to sub-ohm anytime in the future, I would pick up some sony VCT5's and a Nitecore i2 charger.

It'll run you about $35 to get everything, but will save you many headaches (and possible head-explosions) in the long run.

u/these_posts_get_old · 2 pointsr/flashlight

Nitecore D4 charger is what I like.

But the nitecore i2 might be more budget friendly.

u/obsidianjeff · 2 pointsr/flashlight

I got the armytek light in the mail today, waiting on the batteries so I went to the local battery store and just grabbed an 18650 that looked best.

I have these ordered and they're in the mail, will they work? KeepPower

charger: Nitecore i2 Intellicharge Charger

u/z9nine · 2 pointsr/Vaping

This is the one I have. I have three batteries and just rotate them out.

u/flametex · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

However in a device like the Istick 100 those batteries should be perfectly fine. If you were using something like a mech mod or box I would say NOPE but the istick is fine. I would still get an external charger as the usb ports on mods are not the greatest things (they work but still). Also if you have amazon prime you can get a pair of LG batteries and a charger on the cheap ( and ( I personally use the D2 version but for 5 bucks its up to you). But honestly I wouldn't sweat it till next paycheck.

u/CamperCarl · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Yes, it will be fine to charge them one at a time. Make sure they are both 100% fully charged before use. The Cuboid will display each batteries power level at the bottom of the screen.

If you need a dual bay charger, pick up a Nitecore i2 for around $14 on amazon.

ALSO! The Cuboid can charge batteries via the USB port. Joyetech and users don't recommend it. As the battery's can get warm while charging and that mod doesn't particularly have the best battery venting.

u/owllady · 2 pointsr/Vaping101

You could try the Kanger Aerotank with the V3 base on it. It is pretty easy to get the base on and off with the threading for the air control inside of it.

I always go with the Nitecore Intellicharger I2 or I4. Here is the I2.

I'll let someone else tell you about what battery to get.

u/K-LAWN · 2 pointsr/vaporents

I highly recommend buying backup 18650 batteries as well as the [Nitecore Charger] (

u/striller25 · 2 pointsr/Nerf

If you want to stick with stock motors, imr cells will work fine. But those are icr, not imr. most use aw or efest cells. the nitecore I series chargers are what alot of people recommend, though i prefer the luc series. Both are good.
If you decide to go with rhino motors, a pack is going to be the way you want to go. 14500 cells just don't have the amperage to handle them properly or safely.

u/cieje · 2 pointsr/vaporents

well my Arizer extreme Q is pretty stinky.

I don't know about other log Vapes, but like I said they kind of exceed that price

personally I like the xmax pro V2 (it's not in the video, but it's exactly like a boundless CF with an external battery), and get a smoke buddy to exhale through. you could do that while you're living there, and then when you move out get a bong; get the WPA and use it with bong it's way better

you want a smell proof case (edit as a note the case I have is just a pencil case not smell proof; it's the perfect size if I want to go somewhere cuz it'll hold the vape and two extra batteries and a doob tube. so normally I'll pack the vape, and that's enough for like four bowls) (I like the stuff here, extra batteries if you don't have them, and an external charger eventually.

3/4" pipe screens are must have for this vape as well. makes it so the weed doesn't drop out and there's less mess

edit also note, this is a session vape. so it may take much longer compared to an on-demand vape it really depends on what your use would be. I personally like getting high over like 45 minutes instead of like 10 minutes

u/qazme · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

It should be ok but will charge slow. It doesn't say if it has auto off or not I would imagine it does? For the same money - or less if you're on amazon - I would pick up the Nitecore i2 though. It's known to be good if you can look past the over zealous promoters. ;-)

u/pendantix · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Before you read on, please please please do your research before buying and building.

Choose one that you like.
I would suggest Stingray X and Paragon.
Two or more of this.
And this or the i4 depending on how many batteries you get.
This or equivalent where you find it in stock.
Also of course your kanthal and cotton which are easily found on amazon.

u/brokenstatues · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

check out the sigelei 100 watt box mod. pair it with an aspire atlantis. then get yourself a pair of these with this charger it might be a little above your budget but it's a kick ass rig.

u/THE_PUN_STOPS_HERE · 2 pointsr/flashlight

Ooh, I like. Would this charger and these batteries work with this one?

u/couponinside · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Uff. Too bad. Crappy charger or dodgy battery. Both suspect in my opinion. Can you give us more info? If the battery was legit, I wouldn't worry about the spring; get a new charger. The Nitecore i2 is $12.50 on amazon with prime. But anyway your battery might now be damaged.

u/infinity526 · 2 pointsr/flashlight

Oh yeah, I forgot the TC10 is internal charging. Using it as a charger is kinda ghetto, but works I suppose. Easy enough to get a Nitecore I2 charger though link

u/jarmuzek · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

i2 intellicharger, VTC5's, and some sterile cotton. I got rolled cotton from CVS, but you can use sterile cotton balls if you don't want to boil organic stuff. Edit: Temco has the cheapest wire around. I suggest 30 gauge to start with.

u/rocketsauces · 2 pointsr/vaporents

I purchased my batteries from this product page exactly.

I have yet to try charging the Samsung batteries in my vape but that's a great idea! Troubleshooting is always about eliminating variables. I'll let you know how it goes!

Thanks for your time and consideration.

u/beerorkid · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

the i2 seems to be the same, but only does 4 batteries and is only $14

u/Virus11010 · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Fair enough, so long as you know the actual continuous amp limit of your batteries. The best current ones are samsung 25r with a 20 amp continuous rating. A good charger that won't burn your house down is a nitecore intellicharger i2. As for the gear you picked out from fasttech, you're going to be waiting a long ass time to get it, since they've got slow shipping from china. The devices themselves are kind of sub par so you'd be better off with a stingray x and an RDA of your choosing. My personal suggestion for RDA would be mephisto or lancia. This is just coming from someone who has had a lot of experience with this hardware and others, it's better gear for the long run.

u/chris_hinshaw · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I was working on something very similar yesterday. Yes you will need to power the servo's separately. I was able to get everything from Amazon yesterday. You will need a power supply. I bought a 12V power supply from amazon.

Battery Pack

You will also need probably two dc-dc step down converters

You can split these with a simple adapter and connect both of your step down converters

You will wire the output from one converter to the one side of your breadboard and the other to the otherside. You probably want to separate the power from the pi and your servo's so that you don't get a voltage drop which could damage your pi. There are cheaper solutions to this like using a simple voltage regulator but you would give up 7v in heat. So it is recommended to get an efficient dc converter.

My 2cents

u/AssesAssesEverywhere · 2 pointsr/CarAV

I bought a 12v to 5v step down converter. I can't find the exact one I bought in my amazon history for some reason, but it is similar to this : I then bought a 12v 10amp 2 pole rocker switch that lit up when powered on from Auto zone and hooked it in between my fusebox and the converter. Then I just turned it on to power the Pi up and then shut down the Pi correctly before powering it off.

I have seen a few tutorials on adding a small battery and creating some sort of auto shutdown script on the PI once the main power is off, if you want something automatic, but didn't look too much into it. I may revisit it once I get everything installed again, hopefully by this weekend. Have my DD components and coaxials coming in this week and I'll be ready to rock and roll!

u/2down1up · 2 pointsr/RASPBERRY_PI_PROJECTS

If you are getting under power symbol it's likely due to a shitty part.

You need a step down convertor... so you can go with something like this and add USB yourself:

Or something like this,


u/mr___ · 2 pointsr/DIY

I would avoid a 7805 or any other linear regulator, and get an encapsulated dc-dc converter module. They use switching supplies and are far more efficient / generate far less heat.

u/jake1260 · 2 pointsr/xboxone

I would recommend this. I have been using it since 2012 and the batteries still work fine. If I charge overnight while i'm not playing I have rarely run out while playing. I play way too much xbox so the normal person should be fine as well.

u/Barksie · 2 pointsr/oculus

There are different accessories I have bought and has made my experience better.

Cable management:

Audio upgrade:

- Cheap (For just exploring around and watching videos) -

- Expensive (Mainly for playing games and having a mic instead of the built in mic since it's buggy on the headset) -


Controller grips:

These arrive today so I can't say if they are good or bad yet but I've only heard good -

I've had these for awhile and they work great (if you have larger hands, these are perfect) -


Headset power:

I've heard people have had tracking issues due to insufficient power from their usb ports, my RTX 2080 has a dedicated USB-Type C that I use to power my headset and haven't had any tracking issues -


Rechargeable batteries for the controllers:

I've heard other people recommend different batteries but these have worked well for me -

u/Sayburr · 2 pointsr/xboxone

I play with rechargeables, and prefer them.

Here is a scenario as to why... you are playing a game, really getting into it, when your controller turns off due to runing out of "juice".

With rechargables, you switch out the batteries, and continue to play just like before.

With charge kit, you have to plug in your controller, so you are now using a controller hooked to your console. I, personally, don't like that. - $24.11US - $15.99US

u/Echo_Tech0 · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

Perfect I charge all, or charge one pair and use the other at the same time

Energizer Rechargeable AA and AAA...

u/av1cenna · 2 pointsr/AnalogCommunity

Did some research, here's I think my bargain basement lighting kit, and good reviews too.

  • $50 Neewer flash with wireless trigger. a nice manual flash that comes with a wireless trigger. You put one trigger on the flash, and the other in your camera's flash shoe, and bam, radio triggered flash.
  • Neewer stand/shoe/umbrella kit for $33. It comes with three umbrellas.
  • Rechargeable batteries for your flash. I've had good luck with my Energizers, and they are cheap at $13 for a charger + 4 AA's. I'd buy two of them because the cheapest price on a 4 pack is $11, so why not spend the extra $2 for the charger to have a backup charger.

    There, you're good to go for wireless flash for ~$100, manual flash power, works with any camera that has a flash shoe.

    If you can only spend $50, then just get the flash separately for $30 and the batteries. Then you can get the radio triggers, light stand, and umbrellas later when you have the money to spare.

    Also, eventually, you may want to get a larger umbrella - I use an Impact 60" convertible umbrella. Big, beautiful, soft light. I have two of these; they have 4.5 stars on amazon, great umbrella. They are a little unwieldy though; 60" is a big umbrella to deal with.
u/guruguys · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

> Energizer Rechargeable AA and AAA Battery Charger $13


You should get 'pre-charged/ready to use/hybrid' rechargeable not normal ones that loose their charge when they are not being used.

u/Ignis0317 · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Thank you so much for the reply. I was just worried that by mishandling those batteries they will blow up in my face while I am vaping. Should I get external chargers that can monitor batteries independently? What would happen if one of the batteries are bit more/less charge than the rest of the batteries I will be using?

By the way I was looking at these external chargers.

NITECORE i4 Intellicharge universal smart battery Charger -

u/larrybobinski · 2 pointsr/vaporents

I currently have Arizer Air and Arizer Air II. I am primarily looking for a battery replacement and a rechargable battery dock. I researched all over the place and learned these batteries (if legit) are good:

Authentic 4-Pack 2500mAh High Drain ICR LG HE2 3.6V 18650 Rechargeable Lithium Ion Battery 20A Continuous Discharge (Max 35A Current Load) Flat Top

And I thought a Nitecore i4 would work (Nitecore New i4 2016 Intellicharger Smart Battery Charger for Li-ion IMR Ni-MH NiCd

But the thing is, everyone keeps roasting another person’s preference and at this point I really don’t know which battery/charger combo works well. Could you see and tell if these would work with Arizer Air?

u/neuromonkey · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

OP, if you're thinking about deciding to ignore the above advice, don't.

Here's a decent charger for four 18650 cells for $24. You can get the earlier version of this charger for a couple bucks less. The sliders were poorly designed, and were very annoying. It's worth the extra $3 to not have to wrestle each cell into place.

u/deathless88 · 2 pointsr/flashlight

Great charger

and light

You can also get a kit with the Thrunite which includes everything you need. It probably will cost slightly more if you get the kit than buying individual parts separately but will save you some time.

edit: I would also suggest getting the Neutral White version marked as 'TN12-2016 NW'

u/puffmaster5000 · 2 pointsr/GrassHopperVape

Considering it's the last of a long list of things they promised to make, and that it was supposed to launch winter 2018 (i think), I wouldn't put any faith in it coming out soon at all. Just get a nitecore i4 and use that.

u/YeahLOLokay · 2 pointsr/Vaping

great charger or for a little bit more money this one . As far as tanks you get the best of both worlds with the iJoy Limitless RDTA Plus, it is rebuildable, and it has a tank. If you're into dripping you can take the cap off and drip instead of filling the tank.

u/Vapeboy123456 · 2 pointsr/Vaping101

Sweet, thanks for your help! I actually broke my first starter kit because I pushed the pin too far. I'll take up on your advice and by a nylon washer or something similar.

Two last question, I hear people don't use the built in charger for the batteries. I'm guessing people use something like?

Second, did you have to clean your Griffin when you first got it? I remember my first tank had some machine oil but I didn't know how to clean it properly. Is baking soda and vinegar enough?

u/majinalchemy · 2 pointsr/vaporents

I got this guy for my hopper today and it's amazing. Have 3 bats charging right now, and it says the % charge on each. To the OP, my least favorite thing before I got the charger was that even if plugged in charging a dead battery, the hopper wouldn't work until it had charged a long time.

u/PabstyLoudmouth · 2 pointsr/flashlight
u/SYEPCY · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

guessing you're in the USA since you didn't specify location

good cheap charger: link

good batteries (get two): link

there are a ton of mech mods out there, choice is yours pretty much. i'd look into the fufda or precise workhorse. both made in the USA and <$100. if you want something cheaper, there are tons of options out there.

i don't know how well the MVP2 reads resistance below 1 ohm, so you'll probably want an ohm reader.

u/Delta3DStudios · 2 pointsr/vaporents

> Wow thank you for detailed response. Could you link me an adapter that is meant for the air?

>This charger?

Yerp that's the one

u/rubermnkey · 2 pointsr/Vaping101

better safe than sorry. spend the $20 on an external charger and an extra set of batteries and swap between the two. I plug mine in the bathroom, GFI outlets and tile in case of fire. there are also a bunch of reports of the usb ports being shitty and breaking, then you are shit out of luck.

u/WaffleTail · 2 pointsr/flashlight

If it's worth anything, i've owned my P12 for about 6 months and find it worth $50 in every way. Im pretty sure both will serve you well.

The voltage indicator i find very useful. Just hold mode and click on/off button and instantly know if you're good to go or not.

The 1 lumen mode is fine for me. I use it to read at night from time to time. I dont sleep next to anyone so i cant comment on whether or not they'll be distracted or not.

I havent used any of the 'special' modes on the P12 seriously, other then to scare my friends when they are on their computer's. Though the beacon could be useful when you're changing a tire on a dark road.

These are apparently good batteries, I dont have them personally but this has been linked quite a few times in other forums. What i bought were Nitecore's own branded 2300mAh 18650's. Not worth the premium really but are just as good as any other quality batteries.

I also own the Nitecore D2 charger. Works perfectly fine for me. Alot of people seem to dislike slow chargers such as this so take that into consideration. Charging from 3.43v to 4.15v takes about 5 hours.

If you have anymore questions about the P12 feel free to ask.

u/SONICBOOM1991 · 2 pointsr/vaporents

Exactly what col0ringbook said and you should be ready to rock. I don't know about a charging "dock" for the batteries but you could find a nice charger on amazon. Something like this or something from xtar would serve your nicely

u/_dev · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette


Throw the battery away safely and dispose of the charger. It is trash.

Get this this charger.

I only use 18650s, so I'm not sure what to recommend for 18350s. Perhaps eFests (even though they are just rewrapped)

u/subirex · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I'd go with the d2 personally. The i2 is fine, but for a couple bucks more, the digital screen is very nice. The i2 just has a few bars to display charge percentage.

If you get the d2, use this link from Amazon instead...

Make sure you pick the one sold from direct from Amazon. It's only 19 cents more, and you 100% know it's authentic.

u/cknlegs · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Mmmm.... Japanese Cotton, yummy. Personally prefer the D4 charger, tho.

u/PCjabber · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

You could always get one of these fancier chargers that shows the total charge (mAh) put into the battery, and the max voltage it reaches (i.e. at "full charge"). That would help you determine how close they are to "new" specs.

^(Not an endorsement for that specific charger, but it looks like a decent one from the reviews...)

u/aregularguyfromca · 2 pointsr/Vaping101

Thank to you all. I’ve included all of your recommendations in one list to make it easy to read.

Mod recommendations:
Smoant Battlestar,
Smoant Charon,
Voopoo Drag,
Voopoo Alpha One,
Vaporesso Revenger/Revenger X,
Modifined Sirius,
Tesla Nano 120,
Tesla Punk 220,
Lost Vapes,

RTA recommendations:
Vandy Vape,
Vaperz Cloud,
Steam Crave,

Most recommended 18650 batteries:
Sony VTC6,
Samsung 30q,
Samsung 25r

External battery charger:
NiteCore D4+CAR-Adapter+BBOX-T Bundle Nitecore D4 Charger Integrated LCD Panel Display for Li-Ion Ni-MH Ni-Cd Batteries with EASTSHINE Car Adapter and EASTSHINE Battery Box

Right now, I have my eyes on Smoant charon with a vandy vape kylin RDTA, 18650 Sony US18650VTC6 3000mAh High Discharge Flat Top batteries and a NiteCore D4 external charger.

Now what are good websites to buy E-juices?

u/java-of-bean · 2 pointsr/Vaping101

i love my tfv4-mini, but i don't use those coils so i can't say anything about that nitecore i4 $18 nitecore d4 $32

i have/use the D4... if i ever break it, i'll get one or 2 more

u/RobbySkateboard · 2 pointsr/caving

Thank so much for the responses and all of the help! I opted for the HC30 since it's like the zebra but saves $30, I went with a fancy 4 battery charger: and got two extra 3400mah button top batteries (made by nitecore as well).

u/Nothinmuch · 2 pointsr/telescopes
u/markocreates · 2 pointsr/videography

Talentcell Rechargeable 6000mAh Li-Ion Battery Pack for LED Strip and CCTV Camera,12V DC Portable Lithium Ion Battery Bank with Charger,Black

u/Kyengen · 2 pointsr/cosplay

I just made a pair for a hawkgirl costume. The hardest part is the lengths of the various arms. I had the wife stand against a large wall and I just put painters tape where I wanted the wing bones to go, measured that, cut some cardboard to shape for testing purposes and made the final structure from aluminum rods. Picked up a wireless controller and remote, a 12v battery, and two linear actuators.




Control box:

Pneumatic actuators are faster but I like the extra control the electric one's offer.

u/sphykik · 2 pointsr/diyaudio

I'm just finishing up a portable bluetooth speaker. You need a 12v battery (5v ones are for charging phones and other small devices) - this is the one I used.

The Lepai runs on a 12v power supply. The TDA7492 can run on 8-24v. You will get more power out of the amp when giving it a higher voltage, generally.

Assuming you go the bluetooth route - you can find 5v and 12v bluetooth boards. I'd go with 12v since you can use the same battery without a step-down converter. If you want to add a 5v output to your suitcase, for bluetooth or phone charging, Talentcell makes a battery with 12v and 5v. It's only a few dollars more.

u/Histrix · 2 pointsr/smoking

You can power the Fireboard from any of those external 5 volt USB power packs. You can also use a 12 volt external battery pack plugged into the Drive cable to help power the fan and the Fireboard.

Whenever I use my Fireboard and Drive cable and fan I also plug in an external battery to the Fireboard itself just in case the fan ends up needing more “juice”.

I have been happy with some of the Anker brand battery packs. I have a few in various capacities. Here’s a link to one of them:

I have an external 12 volt pack that I use for a variety of things that can be plugged into the Drive cable adapter itself - one of these:

Either approach will work. From what I’ve read you really only need the 12 volt power supply if using a bigger, higher cubic feet per minute fan that what Fireboard sells.

u/exedotbat · 2 pointsr/Fishing_Gear

I am new to fish finders, but I have the garmin in my kayak and like it so far. This is how I mounted it, and links to the power pack and accessories I used. There are larger power banks but the 6000mah, was perfect for my needs.


Fuse (I cut the original one off and soldered in the blade sytle)

Cable gland set I used for the pelican box

5.5mm plugs to soldered to the garmin cable to plug directly into the battery pack.

Pelican Case

u/zedoary · 2 pointsr/piano

if those are the only connections, you don't appear to have any MIDI output. that might be an issue, but i'm not familiar with the software you want to use.

if you'd care to post the make and model of your keyboard, i can try to look up the manual to figure out exactly what power supply you need. if you don't want to do that, then here's what you could try instead:

from the picture, you definitely need a DC power supply with a center positive barrel connector. does it say "DC 9.5V" on there? if so, i (personally) would try a 9V power supply with it. that's 99% sure to be safe, and 98% likely to work.

find something like for your country, and set it to 9V, make sure to read any instructions so that it is definitely center positive when you plug it in, and then give it a go. if it doesn't seem to work within the first 30-60 seconds, don't leave it plugged in.

u/tomj300sr · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

I have a similar motor shield. you need a power supply. especially if you are running just 3v instead of the 5 for the Arduino.

you need to know the rating of your Servo/ stepper motors and provide the power for that. for example I supplied I think it was around 1.8 amps at 2.2 volts or something for mine.
if I were you I would get something that provides different voltages like a universal like :

it will make testing and compatible with other project.

u/n0esc · 2 pointsr/whatisthisthing

Usually called a barrel or coaxial plug. Somewhere on the label or in the manual it should tell you what voltage and amperage you'll need.

Something like this MAY work, but you need to know the voltage and amperage needed first to make sure that replacement cord will be enough.

What game console is it? Someone can generally tell you what you need with that info.

u/sallybangs · 2 pointsr/SexToys

It looks like just a regular AC wall charger. This thing has tons of attachments and one will definitely fit!

ZOZO 12W 3V 4.5V 5V 6V 7.5V 9V 12V Regulated Multi Voltage Switching Replacement Power AC Adapter for Household Electronics Routers Speakers CCTV Cameras Smart Phone USB Charging Devices

u/moore77 · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

In technical terms, converter means AC --> DC. Inverters are DC --> AC. Converters can also refer to voltage adjustments like you are saying (AC to AC converter, or DC to DC converter). There's no such thing as an AC to DC inverter, although many people misuse the term.

The little box that you plug between your laptop and the wall is a converter.

I have a little wall wart universal converter that you can flip a little switch the voltages on, like this one.

u/2_4_16_256 · 2 pointsr/AskEngineers

Just get a 12V power supply instead of trying to drop a 19V power supply down.

I believe that you would need a 3.33Ω resistor that is capable of dissipating 2.1 watts.

The formulas you need are Power (P)= Current (I) Voltage (V) and V = I Resistance (R). I've gotten used to calling them the Russians PIV and VIR

Edit: I agree with the other poster, the relay isn't needed since there is a switch in the system already and the extra battery could be removed. The relay is just an electrically magnetically operated switch

u/Rozivue · 2 pointsr/DIY

Power supply was a 12V, 2A AC to DC converter like in the link below. An adapter is available for these power units that convert the 2.1mm x 5.5mm plug to two pins that can then be wired for positive and negative leads (the power supply linked below comes with one of these). Each bulb had it's own +/- wire that ran to the center fitting. All six positive wires were spliced into a ring terminal. The same was done for the negatives. Each terminal was then attached to the power supply adapter.

u/2old2care · 1 pointr/audio

You need one of these.

u/xCanont70x · 1 pointr/crtgaming

The back of the tvonly has a vhf connection and has an Rf matching transformer like this.

u/GeneralissimoFranco · 1 pointr/crt

Set the TV to VHF Channel 3 or 4 and run whatever you want through a demodulator (just like you used to do with your game consoles). You might need a coax to antenna adapter.

u/wdouglass · 1 pointr/hometheater

You'll need an rf modulator, like this one

If there's no coax connector on the back, you'll also need an antenna adapter like this one

That tv is really cool, good luck!

u/sivartk · 1 pointr/crt

Does it have external antenna inputs (probably 2 sets of screws, one for VHF, one for UHF)?

If so you could get a 75 Ohm to 300 Ohm adapter and then a RF Modulator converter.

This way you can feed it composite input without making any internal modifications. Honestly, the modifications sound more fun and would probably have better picture quality, too 😁

u/zed857 · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Try that twinlead antenna you found on amazon, just connect one U shaped connector to the screw terminal next to FM Ant and the other U shaped connector to the terminal above it.

It won't be optimal because the antenna is 300 ohm and the connectors are for 75 ohm. But it will probably work OK.

You'll be hard pressed to find a matching transformer / balun that will work with this style of connection. Most transformers take a 75 ohm screw on connection on one end and have two 300 ohm leads on the other end (here's a typical example of one). They are the opposite of what you need.

Your connection is actually meant to take 75 ohm coax with no fitting on the end (the other end of the coax is connected to an FM antenna outside or in your attic). The coax is stripped to expose the center conductor - which wraps around the FM Ant screw. Then the braided shield is twisted together and is wrapped around the the screw above the FM Ant screw (and this has to be done so shield doesn't short out to the center conductor). It's a real pain in the ass to do.

You have an odd variation on this receiver. A Google image search shows the FM antenna connection as a PAL/euro style push-on connector rather than two screw terminals.

u/FatalHydra · 1 pointr/PS4

Sure, typed a long explanation along with pictures at the end.

I powered the hard drive using its own separate power source through a AC molex power adapter. The PS4 when turned off actually powers off the HDD which is great even tho it isn't on the same power source.

Coolerguys 100-240v AC to 12 & 5v DC 4pin Molex 2A Power Adapter

Since HDDs use SATA as their power port, I got a cable adapter to hook it up to the power. SATAPOWADAPR 6-Inch 4 Pin Molex to Right Angle SATA Power Cable Adapter

I needed to find a 15 pin female connector without the sata part for the data part of the HDD (since the PS4 hooks the HDD with a 22 pin connector. Decided to get a splitter type cable and just shove the sata cable inside the space that the 2.5" HDD goes. Fit perfectly in.

SATA 22 Pin Male to SATA 7 Pin and 15 Pin Female

Lastly, I needed a very good yet relatively cheap HDD. Decided to go with this one because of its high cache which acts like a SSD in the sense that the cache is flash memory aka SSD speeds. 4 TB meant I'll never have to upgrade ever again (I install everything without worrying about space, even games I don't play, and still have ~2.4 TB left. That's a lot!). Enterprise drive gave it high read/write speeds which I was happy about.

Seagate 4TB Enterprise Capacity HDD 7200RPM SATA 6Gbps 128 MB Cache Internal Bare Drive (ST4000NM0033)

I've bought these back in August of 2015. I have had no major problems by running my PS4 this way however there's two things that I find as cons. The splitter for the 22 pin cable is fairly short in length so the HDD can only sit so far. I haven't looked into a extension type cable as I don't mind it for my setup but I think it's good to mention that.

The other con is that IF your console freezes, crashes, etc. and you need to either unplug the console or shutdown through button, you may need to reset your connections. By that I mean, turn off PS4, then unplug power and data cable, wait 2 seconds, plug back in power and data cable to HDD, and reconnect the PS4 and boot it. It will either start up right away or you have to wait roughly 3 minutes for it to do the "Checking system" because you did a hard shut down. It's happened to me enough times that I know no data will be corrupted by this and you shouldn't worry. I leave my HDD out in the open but you can enclose it if you'd like so long as you give it breathing room and don't block any holes on it.

Phew... What a long reply through my phone 🙂. And... pictures:

u/LeinahtanWC · 1 pointr/watercooling

That looks exactly what I am looking for.Now to see if I can find it on a website like Amazon or Newegg

Found it:

Now that I am reading this, this isn't going to be short on the power output is it? I have this:

I ask because I hear the W_Pump+ header is a 3A header for DDC pumps, and this thing is saying "Up to 2A".

Its also not the same model as the one you linked. So I can keep looking.

u/subtraho · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

This is amazing - the best part is I have almost all of the pieces just lying around!

One note: for a little more money ($15), you can get a 110V AC to 12V DC 4-pin molex adapter, which basically gives you a power plug just like the ones coming off of a PC power supply. With a 4-pin to 3-pin adapter to connect to the potentiometer (many fans will even come with these) you could actually do this without any splicing any wiring at all. This is what I plan to do as I have one of these power supplies just sitting around from a past project.

Example power supply

u/sponslerm · 1 pointr/pcmods

I have one of these. It works great. I used it to power a fan.

u/raptordrew · 1 pointr/buildapc

Are they Molex (IDE HDD connector), or small 3 or 4 pin fan connector? For Molex fans/to use with HDDs when needed, I always keep one of these handy -

u/Pitarou · 1 pointr/SpaceBuckets
u/datasnow · 1 pointr/homelab

Sure thing! This is what I'm using.

u/T-Shirt_Ninja · 1 pointr/buildapc

I found this, which you can then get a molex splitter for if the fans can't be daisy chained.

u/Dstanding · 1 pointr/pcmods

Galvanic corrosion will be an issue any time the two metals are connected by something conductive. In this case, water. Even distilled or DI water - it'll snap ions out of the metals in a heartbeat and instantly become conductive again.

Also, that water block you linked is said to be copper in the title, and then aluminum in the description.

If you could get the 10mm thick block to work, that'd be your best bet. Or you could just build a 100% aluminum loop; it won't perform as well as copper but it'll still be fine for your purposes.

As for the power supply, the one you linked might work but it looks a bit sketchy since it doesn't have an output amperage rating. I've got one of these which is rated for 2A on the 12V; that'll be enough for a good pump and a few fans.

u/Exploding_Knives · 1 pointr/buildapc

Okay, so the Walmart AC adapter is only 500mA. So that's not happening.

On amazon I found this 5A adapter and this 2A adapter.

Combined with this splitter, would these be a good solution? Is it possible to have too many amps and destroy the pump and fan?

u/diab64 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I found a solution without having to do any DIY:

Coolerguys 100-240v AC to 12 & 5v DC 4pin Molex 2A Power Adapter + Phobya Adapter Cable, 4-Pin Molex to 4-Pin (PWM), 30cm, Sleeved, Black

Thank you for your advice though. I really hope it will have enough pull to work for me for this purpose.

u/nevondrax · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

That depends on which enclosure you have, can you maybe send a link or some example of your encloure? Then i can help you with the power adaptor.

Normally you only need a 12V/2A adaptor for hard drive enclosures, but some take 12V and 5V like yours seems to do, which is slightly unusal.

It could also have a molex plug, if it should really need both voltages, then you can buy something like this: clicky

u/cryinwilson · 1 pointr/watercooling

Male molex to male fan adapter should work, and there are also ac to molex power supplies.

These are just an example. I didn't look too hard, so you might be able to find better prices or quality, but those together should power it without being hooked up to a psu or motherboard.

u/cehak · 1 pointr/hardware

the rosewill is something I've considered (similar products)

I was looking more at a getting a single molex and getting a molex to 6 pin for each unit. The 6 pin pcie is the only thing powering the unit. That requires me buying two single molex power supplies and two molex to 6 pin adapters which just seems redundant if theres something out there that can have two molex and that's it or two 6 pin and that is.

heres what i planned to do:



u/Boxx1e · 1 pointr/homelab

using a molex to 4 pin pwm splitter:

and an ac to molex psu:

You can control them using pwm from a motherboard header based on temp (orange header), but I just run them full blast, since they don't make any noticeable noise

u/Cbeebees · 1 pointr/SpaceBuckets

This if i was to buy it would it work too?

u/TSLW · 1 pointr/ECE

If you're going to be investing in hardware anyway, why not invest in something like this.

u/the_nin_collector · 1 pointr/headphones

This is what I use: sorry on my mobile.
Get it before you go. It's 200$ on lol Japan. But fucking love it here. This goofy over priced island nation. (Learn to read katakana and hiragana before you come it will be the biggest help) I still can't read much kanji 10 years later.... You can work on that later.

u/Yuuka5 · 1 pointr/gamecollecting

How would something like this fair for a stepdown converter"

Not sure if that's a cheap brand or not, but I guess i should pick one up sooner or later, just for securities sake

u/wcg66 · 1 pointr/vintageaudio
u/PeriFan15 · 1 pointr/retrogaming

I'd say you should be more concerned about the Power Adapter, don;t want to break your system by feeding it too much power.

For a video signal, you can just use a normal NES RF Switch and set your TV to channel 95 or 96. This is a problem on modern TVs, as most don't go up that far, but older TVs should have that channel.

If you're looking for an adapter for power, I'd recommend this:

The cheaper ones should work on game systems, and it is a good idea to only give the system the power it was made for. If you plug it right into a US outlet, there shouldn't be too much, but the voltage is 10-20 volts higher here than it is in Japan, so I'd highly recommend getting a power converter. You don't want to accidentally burn up your game system.

u/evilpaul · 1 pointr/gamecollecting

Standard NES power will destroy the Famicom so don't use that. You can use the early Sega Genesis adapter and maybe the Master system. A quick search can verify that for you. Pretty sure I did that but I haven't used my Famicom in a bit so I forget.

Many say use a step down converter but I forget if you have to with the Sega adapter or not. I think this one was recommended in here

u/_fuma_ · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

You should get a step down transformer for Japanese 100 volt gear - the power draw is 140 watts, so they say to double that for your transformer's peak ability (especially with a power amp). So I'd look at a 300 watt or higher unit.

USA is 120v / 60Hz - Most Japanese gear is for 100v / 60Hz so its not that far off, but far enough I wouldn't be plugging it in directly to a US outlet!

u/RaveRacerN64 · 1 pointr/WeddingPhotography

This is one of the best AA battery charges.

EBL 8 Bay AA, AAA, Ni-MH, Ni-CD Rechargeable Battery Charger - Upgraded ETL Certified

I had this charger but it was black and I think it had a different name on it it broke after a year and a half I believe. The good thing about this charger is it can charge one battery at a time. The bad thing about this charger if a battery is 100% DEAD it won't charge the battery because its a smart charger and it needs to read the chip I believe in the battery and when the battery is 100% DEAD it won't charge the battery. This is when the EBL charger saved my ass because I needed to charge batteries for a wedding. Its a good charger because it can charge each battery all the way up and it has a feature that it will drain a battery and recharge it so the battery works better but get the EBL battery charger first also I get two EBL charges one for a back up if you do event work. Fstoppers on YouTube did a review about batteries they showed one of the best charges.

Tenergy TN160 12-Bay AA/AAA NIMH/NICD LCD Smart Battery Charger

This might be the one Fstoppers showed off. I think I saw another one that was like this with a different name.

La Crosse Technology BC700-CBP Alpha Power Battery Charger

u/visionviper · 1 pointr/xboxone

I use the La Crosse BC700-CBP

Great charger that has served me well.

u/va3243 · 1 pointr/mflb recommend one of these babies. charge 2 @ 80min, charge 4 in 2hr, 30min. check out the reviews for details. comes with decent battery set as well.

u/vyndree · 1 pointr/xbox

I started using rechargeable AA's after I saw a video where someone cracked open the play & charge kit and -- lo and behold, all it contained was two AA rechargeables.

Bought a nice charging station (with a "refresh" mode to discharge them completely then recharge and reset the battery's memory - which is why most of my play & charge kits were dying within a single year) and 4 AA's (2 for charging, 2 for being in the controller) and haven't ever had a problem.

IME, play & charge kits dying (not holding a charge, quickly light changes to green even though it's not fully charged, etc) is because you don't allow the battery to fully die before plugging it back into the cable, causing the battery to constantly "top up" all the time, and ruining the rechargeable AA's inside (they lose their "memory").

u/veriix · 1 pointr/pics

Get this charger or the BC-9009 and some precharged/hybrid NiMH and you're all set.

u/Seber · 1 pointr/mflb

Depends on how much money you want to spend on.. Vaporpedia recommends this one (30$) or this one (50$). ;)

u/Docteh · 1 pointr/Multicopter

I have a La Crosse charger laying around for charging AA's

The ISDT Q6 charger might be expecting to charge like a series pack instead of a few loose cells.

Are you using low self discharge cells or the regular old ones? If its the regular ones you could probably find a charger at like a thrift store...

u/Selykg · 1 pointr/xboxone

I've had the set I have now for well over a year and they're holding up strong here. Perhaps you were using a bad charger?

I use this thing.

u/KalutikaKink · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I don't have one that I can recommend from personal experience. The following have god reviews and much of what I would look for in a charger.

That seems like a good charger with some basic features for a good price.

This charger, on the other hand, has all the features you could possibly want but you pay for them all.

A few features that make a surprisingly big difference.

Capacity. If you blow through batteries you might need more than a 4 slot charger.

Speed. If you're down to your last charge cell it can be annoying to wait for hours before it reaches a usable charge.

Battery indicator. Some chargers offer a full battery status report and some offer a simple light that is red for charging and green for full.

Charge cut-off/trickle charge. Over charging a battery will reduce it's working life and a bad charger will just keep pumping juice into it until you remove the cell. A good charger will cut off power or change to trickle charge to keep it at peak performance for longer.

Single cell charging. The basic battery charger I have will only charge batteries in sets of two. That means I can't charge one or three at a time. More of an inconvenience than a real problem.

u/EyeballFryer · 1 pointr/flashlight

For a simple NiMH charger, I use the Panasonic BQ-CC17. For advanced features like testing the capacity and refreshing the battery to restore capacity, I use the La Crosse Technology BC700.

u/compulsivehobbyist · 1 pointr/LocationSound

I've heard good things about Amazon as well. The biggest complaint I have with EBL is that they get beat up super quickly - the foil label/cover started to tear of mine after only a couple uses. So far I have noticed any jarring issues with performance.

I'd recommend getting something like this charger that can test capacity - I didn't find much difference between EBL / Eneloop out of the package. I imagine that higher end batteries will hold up better over time in terms maintaining capacity and low self discharge, but I haven't come up with any empirical data to support that yet haha.

La Crosse Technology BC700-CBP Alpha Power Battery Charger

u/steakncheese1 · 1 pointr/xboxone

I will have to agree with everyone who said Panasonic Eneloops. I also recommend La Crosse BC-700 a decent charger.

u/wlc · 1 pointr/mflb

If you have a good charger with a "refresh" feature, you can possibly get even better life by doing a refresh/recondition cycle every once in a while.

I own this one, but it appears the newer ones have had really bad ratings so I don't know if I'd recommend them anymore. But mine has worked great for about 5 years, I think:

u/AnonymoustacheD · 1 pointr/xboxone

I know you specifically said base but I highly recommend changing your entire life over to rechargeable eneloop aa's. You'll save a lot of money in the long run since they last for over 1000 charges. Get a good charger like this La Crosse Technology BC-700 Alpha Power Battery Charger

I hope to god that links. Not sure how to do it on ialien.

u/SomeGuyNamedPaul · 1 pointr/photography

I use a La Crosse BC-700 It allows me to specify the charge rate, plus it's quite intelligent as far as managing batteries.

The faster you charge a battery, the hotter it gets. The hotter the battery gets the sooner it's toast. Those 15-minute rapid chargers do very bad things to batteries and are best avoided.

I use Duracell Pre-Charged batteries and others that are similar. Instead of charging before use I charge after use and then throw them in the drawer because they don't just drain down to nothing sitting on the shelf unlike the super high capacity cells.

u/Drakham · 1 pointr/xboxone

Im using this recharger:

and never regretted it. Not the only good one on the market but it works fine and has all the functions you Need.

u/cocquyt · 1 pointr/gaming

If you want a pretty boss charger, here it is.

A higher quality charger will make your batteries last longer and do other things like show you the health of each one, charge at different rates (heat/longevity vs speed) and allow you to charge individual batteries without having to pair them up.

I had a pair of Turtle Beach x41 headphones that would eat up a pair of AAAs in about 12 hours, so I was changing them every day and a half or so. I ended up getting 4 Sanyo Eneloops and swapping them out for 2 years in college and they worked amazing.

If you have things that chew through batteries, get good rechargeable and a good charger. If you're going to throw them into your TV remote or something, stick with normal disposable.

u/phobos2deimos · 1 pointr/livesound

Oh, no way. You have to be mindful of them getting bad memory (solved with a full discharge/recharge cycle ever now and then), but they're the way to go. We were blowing through about forty AAs a day with audience mics, and switched to rechargeable a few years ago. About every 18 months we add new batteries to replace what's gone bad/lost.
Save yourself some headache and get these chargers. We've tried four different types of chargers, and all have fallen apart or killed batteries within a year. The lacrosse chargers are excellent.

u/Jack_Benney · 1 pointr/mflb

This is one that caught my attention, but it seems like I have read about other brands/models that are better suited.

u/rahlquist · 1 pointr/xboxone

I have been using this since 2013 with eneloop and now these Amazons. I recently bought a cheaper charger that is compatible with a lot more batteries the Nitecore D4. Also fine would be Nitecore I4, D4, D2. Any would get the job done in great form. I found Amazon a bit expensive so I bought from based on many great reviews by

u/wildo88 · 1 pointr/xboxone

I love my rechargeable AA batteries. I haven't done the extensive testing OP has on life, but I generally swap out batteries once a month or so it feels like, probably 15-20 hours of playtime. This is using the generic Amazon rechargeables.

For anyone using rechargeables, or thinking about it, a critical part is a good charger. I highly recommend La Crosse chargers. They know when your batteries are full and stop putting a full charge into them, which is why batteries start to die (at least in my layman's understanding). The below charger is the one I use, and has served me great for ~4 years; batteries that I got 4 years ago that could hold 2100 mAh still hold about 1900 mAh.

u/TheDukeofArgyll · 1 pointr/AskReddit

This is the one I have been using and it works very well. I have had it and the batteries for about a year now and they work amazingly and I recommend them to everyone. I am probably going to buy more just so I never have to use any other batteries.

u/jocamero · 1 pointr/flashlight

I have a Nitecore I2 and a LaCrosse BC-700. Both work great. The LaCrosse is nice for extending the life of your AA rechargeables. It can even 'revive' older batteries and increase their capacity by doing a few charge/discharge cycles. You can also choose the charge rate (lower/longer) to supposedly make the batteries last longer (more cycles). I used to have an Energizer 15 min quick charger and it ruined several of my AA rechargeables.

u/awsumsauce · 1 pointr/xboxone

Fair enough! I've been using the german version of this thing for a few years now, and while it might be slightly more expensive than the apple thing, it has a shit ton of useful functions and is very reliable. Also look up some eneloop reviews, they basically behave like disposable batteries, i.e. all the advantages thereof, and mine have all been working great since 2011 when I bought them. Worth every penny!

u/yangar · 1 pointr/nfl
  1. Dillon Francis' latest album Money Sucks, Friends Rule especially the track with Sultan & Ned Shepard, When We Were Young

  2. Ballast Point's Sculpin, especially the varietals: habanero, grapefruit, or passion fruit. For the festival kick, Stone's Smoked Porter with Vanilla Bean.

  3. Downpayment for that $10,000 Sandcruiser. You're almost there...
    But more seriously, get this battery charger: and pair it with some Sanyo Eneloops. Wait for it to go on sale for $30ish. It'll revive your old rechargable batteries, charge your current ones, etc. Magic machine

    And as always, anything on Amazon can be price tracked with
u/vipirius · 1 pointr/anime

Not always. Most cheap (1-2 euros if you know where to look) adapters are just physical, they only change the shape of the cable so it can be plugged in. Like this. To convert voltages you'll need something like this, which is more expensive and bulky.

u/xudo · 1 pointr/belgium

There are two differences between Belgium and the US in terms of electricity:

  • Belgium uses 220v 50 Hz AC, the US 110v 60 Hz^1

  • The socket looks different between the countries (Belgium vs the US)

    If it is only for 8 days, I assume the items that you would carry that need a charge is your mobile phone/laptop charger and may be an electric shaver.

    Most modern phone/laptop chargers are compatible with a range of voltages that covers both these: they have a "Universal Voltage Range" and are generally marked as 100-220 v, 50-60Hz (Like this) . You can use these in belgium without a voltage converter. But you would need an "adapter" so that you can use the US plug in a Belgian socket. I would suggest one of these. You will be able to find this in a local electronic store as well (Fry's, Best Buy...).

    Some items, especially Electric shavers generally do not support both 220 volts and 110 volts. You will need a "converter" to convert between the voltage ranges. Something like this. However note that you may need a higher power (watts) converter if you are planning to use a higher power item (say an electric drill).

    I would suggest to avoid the converter altogether if you can (do not use an electric shaver). that way you can avoid carrying the bulky/more expensive converter, which anyway will not be of much use when you come back.


    Edit: Added an image for a universal charger.
u/xmastreee · 1 pointr/Coffee

I've gone the other way, and am happily using a 50Hz grinder on 60Hz.

For a 110V appliance in the UK you will need a transformer. Something like this should be good enough, but check the power rating of your grinder first. I googled it and got 165Watts but don't take my word for it. Cut the plug of it (the transformer, not the grinder) and fit a UK one, it's safer than using an adaptor.

u/furfagcatrick · 1 pointr/BdsmDIY

Next time, get one of these. Wands, both violet and magic, need to be properly stepped down for safety reasons. Also you can get one for like $70 here. Their other stuff is overpriced a bit but the wand itself is legit and not super high priced.

u/AlexTree · 1 pointr/trees

You would need a converter that converts the 220v to 120v, something like this

Great, Ill send you a pm :) <br /> <br /> Yeah we have a decent variety over here. Your GF would probably still be excited about flavoured papers as they are really uncommon over here and she might not even smoked one yet. Maybe even some special pipe from the US as in the end its a present from her BF and shell be happy about it.

You could also consider bringing some munchies/food for her. We dontt have a lot of the US brands over here but dont worry too much I am sure shell be happy to see you as you are quite far away from each other, distance wise.

Haha go to the 90s it was even more relaxed back then.. lol

u/poops34 · 1 pointr/AskEngineers

To build up a bit more on what MoreThanSummerParts said, there is no "simple" plug to do that. You can find outlet adapters, but if the device wasn't made to handle both 115V/230V you will either instantly fry it or blow an internal fuse. Most things aren't made for both voltages, computer power supplies often are however. Devices able to use both are almost always labeled for it, and often include a voltage selection switch.

Here is a link to a step down converter, this will turn 230V into 115V up to 200W. If your device draws more than 200W it should turn off automatically(and not melt). Generally speaking you don't want to use more than 80% of the rated load consistently.

But that's all a bit of a guess. No idea what you're trying to do as you're not specific enough. They are many types of 230V outlets, and likewise 115V.

u/lascruces · 1 pointr/Austria

I'm leaning towards the first option for the converter. However, it only have one output plug, and not the strip like the other one. Since the converter would presumable convert the 230V outlet in Austria to 110V, does this mean I could use plug regular power strip that I've been using in America to it and power my devices through that strip (provided they don't exceed the maximum power of the converter - 200W). Please let me know if this is safe to use.

u/8-bit-hero · 1 pointr/China

I'm in the same boat, except I just got a PS4 Pro. So would something [like this] (;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;refRID=K2V701A9Q3DRDEMTJYNM) allow it to work well (and safely) in China?

u/mozzor · 1 pointr/Roku;amp;qid=1451395262&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=simran

This is the one I am using with the Roku 3. Works just fine - tons of power outages where I live and its held up perfectly with a surge protector.

u/ps94 · 1 pointr/pakistan

You don't just need a plug, you need a voltage converter. Canada uses 110V AC at 60 Hz. Pakistan uses 230V AC at 50 Hz. So you need a converter that will turn 230V 50Hz Pakistani current into 110V 60Hz for your Canadian devices.

Additionally, this converter also needs to come with a plug that fits into Pakistani wall sockets.

You also need to check how much power draw your appliances have. You mentioned cell phones, laptops and cameras. None of these draw a lot of power, so you could probably make do with a 200 watt converter like this one. It only has one socket, but you could probably buy a 3-way adaptor and run your laptop plus charge two phones at the same time.

There are many other adaptors available at this page so you can look around and see what suits you. Basically, you want one that says "worldwide" and has a C/D type plug which is the standard in Pakistan.

Other than that, just count the wattage. Figure on how many appliances you want to use simultaneously and add up their wattage to determine the power of the converter you will need. Read the reviews and pick one that has good reviews.

Don't plan on running any heavy duty appliances with it, such as clothes irons or blow dryers or anything like that. You will destroy your converter. These things are only meant for small electronics.

u/lovecrafthp · 1 pointr/amazon

I own a transformer and it wasn't cheap but this product linked by someone else in this thread sounds rather interesting.

u/lexusguy74 · 1 pointr/Advice
u/alocalscientist · 1 pointr/VietNam

I used this step down electric adapter to make sure my charger did not get overloaded.;amp;psc=1

My Samsung Note 4 has WIFIi calling which I used in Vietnam. I did not have to get a sim card because I could always find wifi when I needed to. For instance, I mostly messaged people, posted photos, or called when I was back in my hotel. However buying a sim card on the fly is very easy to do too.

u/DantesDame · 1 pointr/askswitzerland

Before moving here I bought a "northern european" adaptor and found that the pins were slightly too wide for the sockets. I could shove them in, but it wasn't a good fit. However, I purchased some specifically for Switzerland and they fit perfectly.

These are the ones I bought and like the best: (all Amazon links) 3 prong adaptors and a multi-plug adaptor. They've both worked well.

And for those who need a step down transformer, I found that this one also works great.

u/kodack10 · 1 pointr/audiophile

Well unplug the sub from the phono input :)

Then buy a direct box for about 10 dollars at any Best Buy that converts speaker level to line level and wire it in parallel with the left or right channel.

u/EndTrophy · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

What if you passed it through a line-out converter?

u/jamesjamesnotjames · 1 pointr/hometheater

something like this or this?
and will the sound quality take a noticeable hit with such a setup? this record player is really nice but if it's going to sound like garbage i would just consider buying a newer one..

thanks for your help with this!

u/adrianmonk · 1 pointr/audio

Such things do exist, but I think it's better to avoid them since it's likely to degrade the sound quality due to unnecessary components in the chain. Also, most of them are made for car audio, where quality standards often aren't as good.

EDIT: Looking at the service manual, it appears the Toshiba has a DIN socket. This is probably a line-level output since I understand that connector was used a lot on European gear. If that's what it is, it can be converted to RCA line-level with a cable like this or this. This is a much better option than using the speaker-level to line-level converter.

u/tldnradhd · 1 pointr/CarAV
u/1nvisiman · 1 pointr/CarAV

For your subs, you can pretty much get any $15-$20 loc and be fine.

PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter

If you dont want to wait for shipping. Im sure your local electronics or car audio installation shop has one. Best buy carrries some too, if that's by you.

u/the_blue_wizard · 1 pointr/audio

Here are a couple more that accomplish the same thing, reducing High Speaker Level down to Low Line Level signal -

Connect the wires to the speaker terminals and the RCA outs to the Active Speakers.

u/dpatt711 · 1 pointr/cbradio

I bought one of these. My concern is that the mono output of the PA will cause issues. Im using these so I can plug in a stereo 3.5mm.

u/cheatsydoodle · 1 pointr/audio

I think I'm gonna get this one

u/jackemrys · 1 pointr/audio

Yes, it will work.

I used to run a setup like this when I was in highschool. (Not disparaging you, it was pretty cool)
I actually used a DC power amp with the sub in my bedroom.

The easiest way to use a dc car headunit (radio) with a home theater receiver is to wire up a computer power supply like this.

Basically, you will take a power supply and strip the leads to connect to your car headunit. Make sure that this headunit has RCA outs, or you might end up having to use one of these. Using one of these will almost surely degrade your audio signals, but if you're streaming over bluetooth, it won't matter much anyways.

Warning: if you don't do your research AND properly terminate your exposed leads on both the headunit and convertor, you can start a fire.

As far as the other sources such as tv, xbox, ect, they will all be routed through your receiver, and then to whatever other speakers you have hooked up.

EDIT: something like this
bluetooth receiver might be more well-suited to your needs.

u/lpbman · 1 pointr/BuildaCarAVForMe

48v 2 channel amp

Subwoofer amp

8" weatherproof coaxials


Head Unit

line out converter

Head unit shield

Need to be pretty handy for this setup, but it isn't anything crazy. The amplifiers will power on when you put juice to them so you'll need a switch. You can run off of the main batteries with these amps, and the head unit off of the 12v supply. Those coaxials are meant for wakeboard speakers... I would do 4 per side, depending on how loud you really want to be and how much space you have available. Having a real head unit will make sure the signal has enough signal strength to run the 2 channel, and the sub amp will be fed by rca right from the head unit.

Sub will need a box, might look for one that is sprayed with bed liner for weather resistance.

u/CrossBones3129 · 1 pointr/CarAV
u/bongdong42O · 1 pointr/Honda

I bought this line out converter;amp;qid=1537158568&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=sni35

Would that fix that problem? I'm looking to tap into the wires that come right out of the subwoofer, the ones that are in the trunk.

u/rdwtoker · 1 pointr/CarAV

the amp they suggested is fine, you could just get the same stuff off the web for super cheap

4 gauge amp kit - $32.48

line out converter - $13.02

SAE-1000D - $314.99

ported prefab - $49.99

that puts my amazon cart total at $411.39 tax included, and if you didnt want to do the amp install then buy your stuff online then take that amp/amp kit/loc to a shop and pay them to install it.

However, I would recommend a custom box rather than the prefab I recommended as you would get a lot lower bass.

u/TheImmortalLS · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

You can do that but maybe use a high to line level converter (PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out... first? Don't want to blow the active sub with too much voltage to line in.

u/Spud1080 · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

This sort of thing exists if it's helpful - just make sure it can handle whatever power you plan to pump into it.

u/pervyme17 · 1 pointr/CarAV

What are the advantages of OFC? Will it sound better/last longer, etc.?

Also, could I get away this this cheap Line out converter, or should I get something better? Thank you for being so much help!;amp;pd_rd_i=B001EAWS3W&amp;amp;pd_rd_r=RVMV8TKNZ21269XR4J08&amp;amp;pd_rd_w=gL0hJ&amp;amp;pd_rd_wg=gFhz3&amp;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;refRID=RVMV8TKNZ21269XR4J08

u/Gah_Duma · 1 pointr/hometheater

Don't give up so fast. If you're feeling adventurous, try buying a line-out converter. Typically these are used for car stereo systems. Not sure how they will affect the impedance of the speakers and I can't guarantee that they won't blow your amp, but logically it's possible. or something else like it

u/strategicdeceiver · 1 pointr/NoAudiophile

If keeping the remote control is a priority, some people have had success with line level converters. Other option is to use the tape output in conjunction with a pot in a box like one of these, but you will lose remote volume capability.

u/diabolical_furby · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Perfect, thanks! This is the back of my sub, so there are line-level outputs. Where I messed up is I tried to connect straight RCA cables from the line out to the sub without using a Y-splitter, which of course didn't work. Then I bought this guy and connected it to my speaker outputs, and then ran the same RCA cable from that to my sub, which also didn't work. Maybe I did it wrong or I got a bad converter? Either way I'll experiment with the Y-splitter, one has got to work. If not maybe my sub is defective and I'll get in contact with Best Buy who I got the sub from as open box.

u/itcrackerjack · 1 pointr/diyaudio
u/outpath · 1 pointr/solotravel
  1. Exactly which countries will you need this to work in? As you can see from this map, there are a bewildering variety of plug types around the world.

  2. What type of plugs do your devices have—North American ones?

  3. How many outlets do you need this device to have? What about USB?

    If size is your primary concern, check out something like the Kikkerland UL03-A Universal Travel Adapter, which I own. While it is small and works in most countries in the world, I find plugging in something heavy like a Mac adapter into it tends to pull it out of the outlet.

    TooManyAdapters recommends the Flight 001 4-In-1 Adapter. While on the expensive side, they say it fits snugly into all the outlets they tested.
u/ExternalUserError · 1 pointr/digitalnomad

You're not getting a smaller profile.

This + this = less space than this.

u/gabek333 · 1 pointr/onebag

I'm heading out to SEA in a few days, and now I am ready to go. Thoughts always appreciated. I included links to all my gear.


u/PeteyNice · 1 pointr/travel

This is what I use and I have never had a problem. It works in the recessed outlets that Europe seems to favor better than the large bricks that others have recommended on this thread.;amp;psc=1

u/Schwerlin · 1 pointr/techsupport

So, the good news is that you're overthinking it a bit. That adapter takes 110v from the wall and outputs 12v and up to 50 watts. Something like this or this should solve your issue, you just need to make sure what the size of the barrel connector for the output is.

u/howudoon · 1 pointr/Dynavap

Okay this is the one that Amazon said is "frequently bought" with the IH module and it says 6 A, do you think it would be adequate or should I just get a 10 A? Im trying to keep the build as inexpensive as possible

u/Moto13k · 1 pointr/VRGaming

I have a simple cheap setup that i use for VR flight and racing sims. It provides a nice rumble, granted it's not as precise as something like simvibe but it gets the job done.

i have the following hardware:

u/Sseleman · 1 pointr/dogemarket

Yes, that will work, but this is cheaper:

I don't sell those plug adapters.

u/noorbeast · 1 pointr/oculus

I have not used the power supply and consider you likely need more amps.

Another option are the LP168S amps I use in my lounge, they have 2x40w bass output:

And take a common 12V power convertor like this, you may even have some of these around as they are common for many 12V devices:;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;refRID=JXD0AG6CA2S5NEDJ0X9V&amp;amp;dpID=51GD35m3vPL&amp;amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;amp;dpSrc=detail

u/demolition22 · 1 pointr/funny

This is what I ordered: 12v 6a Adapter Power Supply for LCD Monitor with Power Cord by LCD AC Power Adapter

That's what I got.

u/russell_m · 1 pointr/astrophotography

So I've also just noticed that my DC -&gt; AC adapater does not have a ground prong, and looks like this. It's now leading me to believe this could be causing me some serious power problems. I am thinking to purchase something like this instead. Do you think that has any protection from voltage drop?

u/TurnbullFL · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Finding a good one plug &amp; play will be more difficult.

Here is a 6 amp one. you could try.

u/nofear1056 · 1 pointr/vinyl

Is this a Lepai add on or just any old 6amp power supply like this? Sorry if that's a dumb question, just want to make sure I get it right. I appreciate the help.

u/huffalump1 · 1 pointr/Multicopter
u/ExLiberMortis · 1 pointr/vaporents

I used this power supply with my DIY build and I've had no issues:

With that said, I'm using a MOSFET board controlled by a momentary button, so the load on mine at the PSU may be different.

u/elmoret · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

4 of these - you could use cardboard to save more money - $32

1 of these - $5

1 of these - $22

1 of these - $8

Optional: $10 PWM controller for the blower.

So under $50 with cardboard, a bit over $50 with acrylic.

u/subiacOSB · 1 pointr/Dynavap

Power supply seems a bit weak. Why don’t you get a 6A power supply?

u/Pandassaurus · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

One last question, what does it mean when it says 5A stall? What's stall? The power supplies I found seemed too big for such a small motor. From what I know, the voltage has to be the same (12v) but the A can be bigger than required without going under. Thanks a lot for your help!

edit: this is one I found:;amp;qid=1421305179&amp;amp;sr=8-5&amp;amp;keywords=12v+5A

u/Valum · 1 pointr/arduino

Depending on the solenoid it'll probably take more current than a normal 9V battery can provide.

If it doesn't need to be portable, there's plenty of options for cheap 12v power supplies.

If it's going in a car you'll want to just run the wires from the battery.

If for some reason you need it to be portable and don't want to plug it in you're going to need a decent sized battery. If it's a small enough solenoid (i.e. an amp or two max) you could get a battery holder. There's also plenty of 12V RC batteries.

u/sequentialsilence · 1 pointr/audioengineering

A bass port is the same as a vented enclosure. the 4.5khz crossover will work. D class amps are industry standard for any sound amplification work. Literally everywhere where power, volume, or price is an issue, people use D class. T class aren't as powerful, and AB aren't efficient enough for battery operation.

As far as a battery, this one has 18ah way more than you need but should allow you to run it for quite some time. Or you could go with the 7ah version it won't last as long but it is smaller, and it is about 1/4 of the weight. Any 12V power supply will work to charge it as long as you put a power switch somewhere between the battery and the amp when you wire it. If you are not comfortable/don't have the tools to splice the power cable correctly, don't do it. Blowing up gear, possibly causing fires, and/or electrical shock is not worth it. It's really easy to do, but if you screw it up, it can be disastrous.

I'm actually intrigued to see how this turns out, on paper it should have an output comparable to that of a commercial loudspeaker in a much smaller package, with the added bonus of being battery powered.

u/jaredjdr · 1 pointr/Dynavap

Appreciate the info! That’s what I’m struggling with. The guide mentioned 5a for first builds, but if I’m better off with 6a and going the MOSFET route, I’d rather know now. On that subject, what do you think of this?

Power supply

Kastar AC Adapter, Power Supply 12V 6A 72W


API-ELE [3 year warranty] All New Design 10 Amp 22mm Latching Push Button Switch 12V Angel Eye LED

With this setup do I still need the MOSFET?


u/JoePrey · 1 pointr/Multicopter

The receiver gets its power from the server leads that go from the receiver pins to the receiver itself.

You do not need additional power for the receiver from an ESC.

ALso for charger I bought;amp;psc=1

It will work with batteries up to 6s.

It does not come with an AC adapter so I had to buy this as well;amp;psc=1

They seem to work well together.

u/R_Weebs · 1 pointr/Multicopter

I use the accucell 6. cheap, seems to work well. charge times are as expected, but the post about parallel charging from u/fryfrog seems to speed that up.

I use this power supply;amp;psc=1

u/TheAverageKerbal · 1 pointr/radiocontrol

I use this charger and this power supply.

u/l337sponge · 1 pointr/dogecoin

watch out for good deals on gridseeds. You can get them for 40-50 bucks right now.

I'm using this power supply;amp;psc=1

This splitter;amp;psc=1

Amazonbasics 7port USB hub which was for sale on amazon for $18.99

Hooked up to my win7 machine running CGminer, might go to raspberry pi route soon just to get it out of my room. As I said, I don't pay for power so ya... otherwise ROI would be basically unattainable which it pretty much is anyway.

You CANNOT DUAL MINE with this setup. SCRYPT ONLY, Absolutely NO SHA-256. power supply with splitter works, simply because gridseeds use such little power in scrypt only mode.

u/mill1000 · 1 pointr/radiocontrol

I use this one:;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;smid=AS8PCMKEL4RLT

Worked great until it died when I was charging at max power. Getting a 2nd one.

u/IanPPK · 1 pointr/homelab

I didn't have good luck with mine (sounded like a capacitor couldn't hold charge, but I didn't open it up), but others have had their noise issues fixed with a three prong NEMA power brick, like so:

u/TMaccius · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

I had been operating the chamber as a son of a fermentation chiller for a while. To upgrade it, I got a regular computer heatsink for inside, a liquid pump heatsink to pipe the heat outside, a 77-watt cooler, and a 6A power supply (the cooler actually pulls around 4.5A). I used the same cooler to repair a broken Craigslist wine fridge, which has better insulation and can hit the mid-50s.

I haven't tested the SOFC too much since the redesign, and I just started my first beer in it. But to be safe during active fermentation, I just stuck some ice bottles in the chamber as usual. The airflow isn't as good as it was before, because now I'm using a fan with a heatsink on it rather than a case fan, but it seems to be working okay. At least until I left the lid ajar this morning... (Fortunately it's a Belgian!)

u/Dbag_anonymous · 1 pointr/SoundSystem

I think i was using the wrong adapter by accident. Just bought this, hopefully everything works better after. Should i wire the speakers individually to each channel?

u/thealo4taslkfj · 1 pointr/dogecoin

OK thanks, I took the plunge and also ordered this power supply I read about in another thread for $13 on amazon.

u/MichaelFR85 · 1 pointr/oculus

This setup is amazingly cheap ($80 to $90) and powerful...

All it takes is one to make a huge difference. Great with headphones on.

u/Dwall4954 · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Hmm if it were me I probably wouldn't do it. It's rated for 8A and your power supply is only 6A. Another option if you decide not to do what you are looking at is this

Combo Special: Tenergy TB6-B Balance Charger for NiMH/NiCD/Li-PO/Li-Fe Battery Packs + Power Supply

I have it and love it. Along with a parallel charging board I can charge 6 Lipos at a time!

u/nate94gt · 1 pointr/rccars

all you really need is a charger than can do both nimh and lipo. There are tons to choose from. I don't have a ton of experience with chargers, but most people tend to spend more for a charger that will balance charge, store, deplete, etc. something like this should do all of that;amp;qid=1483384575&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=lipo+nimh+charger

u/sekthree · 1 pointr/Multicopter

/u/spacetimmy \^ this charger is your most basic intro, I bought the more generic Tenergy combo (XT60 plug needed) and it has suited me till now (9 months). I upgraded to the ISDT Q6 plus w/ parallel board &amp; PSU and DAMN i was missing out. So much happier now. but take /u/pkvillager 's advice if you want to upgrade later, my buddy sports the iCharger w/ a server psu and it's a BEAST.

I also rock the Turnigy graphenes 4S 65C and they have been GREAT! I know budgets hurt, but i tend to buy my lipos in two's. In the event one flakes out.

not sure if in the US, buuuut WAIT FOR MEMORIAL DAY SALES!!!!!! I have patience, and tend to wait around for sales, next ones will be memorial day. Shop around and determine the best place to get the most things.

u/alfpope · 1 pointr/radiocontrol

You have a lot of options...I would just get a general purpose charger and be done with it. I have one of these and it works well:

u/Katuhstrofik40k · 1 pointr/rccars

Here is the charger, seems pretty recommended on most of the sites I've found.

Tenergy TB6-B Balance Charger Discharger 1S-6S Digital Battery Pack Charger for NiMH/NiCD/Li-PO/Li-Fe Packs w/ LCD Display Hobby Battery Charger w/ Tamiya/JST/EC3/HiTec/Deans Connectors + Power Supply

u/DominarRygelThe16th · 1 pointr/fpvracing

Currently flying with Goldbat 4S from amazon and they seem to be doing well. Using Racedayquads brand for 2s and 3s packs for my tiny whoop though.

Also this is the charger I have, I use it to charge everything from my 1s tiny whoop batteries and up. It is super easy to use and comes with a power supply.

I recommend picking up a parallel charging board but you can always do 1 at a time charging if you don't get one.

this is the one I have

u/thrasherht · 1 pointr/ElectricalEngineering

A lot of cheap BMS boards actually do exactly what you are saying. They cut charging current when any one cell reaches max charge voltage.

I would recommend a balance charger, just because it ensures your cells are level when you start a cycle. Without, it is possible they could get decently out of sync with eachother.
Though it shouldn't be too horrible, but you will absolutely lose capcity as you will never reach full charge, or full discharge with a cheap BMS.

One note, if you aren't worried about the time to charge, you can charge each cell manually with a single cell charger, which will effectively do the same thing as balancing them.

This turnigy charger is gonna be your cheapest balance option for 2 or 3 cell batteries.

I personally use their TB6-B charger, as it works with many different battery chemistry. I have used it to charge up a car battery before too.

PS: I built my own kayak power system using a 3s2p set of salvaged 18650 batteries, so hit me up if you have any questions regarding battery configurations.

u/petrichorizo · 1 pointr/fpv

Thank you for all that! That was a useful YouTube video, too.

I had to make the purchases yesterday, since I'll be playing with actors in the studio on Monday. That said, I still have time to buy some things.

It's a comfort that I seem to be on the right track. The biggest difference between what I bought and your suggestions is that you suggested I buy the Dock-Kings and other pricier receiver/converting gear. I'd appreciate if you could look at my list of purchased items to determine if you think it will work, or if you see some some red flags.

I suppose in the long run, if this theatre show concept shows promise, we would then invest in more reliable gear, such as no-compression wireless HDMI tx/rx. For now, here it is:


4 cameras:;psc=1 (1S LiPo)

2 x;psc=1 (1S LiPo);psc=1 (2S or 3S LiPo)


3 receivers (should I buy different antennae?):;psc=1

2 x;psc=1


3 AC/DC adapters for the receivers:

3 x;psc=1


3S LiPo (for 3S LiPo camera and try battery-powered Receiver)

2 x;psc=1


Battery chargers;psc=1


Each receiver has an AV output + AV RCA cable. I'll plug in the RCAs from 2 or 3 receivers into this Switcher:;psc=1


Using an RCA cable, connect the Switcher's Output to this RCA to HDMI converter:;psc=1


Then HDMI to projector.



u/shutupshake · 1 pointr/multicopterbuilds

Power supplies for chargers are a pain in the ass.

I started with this combo: here

But I also had to buy charging cables for batteries with the XT60 connector like this.

Buying all the components separately is probably cheaper tho.

u/jeffro422 · 1 pointr/rccars

This will not fit in your chassis. I run a 3s pack in my mini 8ight t. This is the pack I run. I use this to secure it I also have a smaller Venom 2000mah 2s pack that fits in the stock battery tray no problem and provides 20 minutes of run time. I usually use the 3s pack and take it out during my lunch break at work and I get 30 minutes of bashing in the parking lot but I'm pretty easy on the throttle. I don't remember if the 3s pack fits in the stock battery tray but if you have a digital caliper or tape measure you can check.

For a charger just get the Tenergy TB6-B Only extra thing you might need is a charge lead to charge your battery depending on what sort of connector you're using.

u/HitPause · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Combo Special: Tenergy TB6-B Balance Charger for NiMH/NiCD/Li-PO/Li-Fe Battery Packs + Power Supply

Would this work on the 3s lipos?

u/JimboLodisC · 1 pointr/rccars

You can use whatever you want. Only consideration you need to make other than price is making sure the battery fits in the tray.

  • Battery: get a 2S lipo, make sure the dimensions fit the tray, and also make sure the cables come out somewhat on top of the battery and not the sides (I've got 3 batteries that I've bought for my TT02D because the first one didn't quite fit and the second one has the leads coming out on the edge of the battery which rubs against the tub). This is the battery I just got for mine. Note where the cables come out if you decide to buy a different one.
  • Charger: depending on the battery capacity, you'll want something that can charge at "1C" (to keep it simple, a 5000mAh would be charged at 5000mA aka 5.0A). Again, here's the one I use.
  • Transmitter/receiver: I like my Spektrum DX2E, but you can get any setup. The transmitter and receiver need to be compatible with each other. Any receiver should be able to fit in the car though, so just buy what's in your budget with the features you want.

    I don't know what the "2-channel with high speed steering servo." comment is for but if you need a servo then I can also make a recommendation for that: PowerHD, roughly a speed of 0.10sec @ 7.4V
u/CM17X · 1 pointr/Multicopter

It's 7.4V right now. It was higher when it arrives and after 17 hours of practices that I've done so far.
I'm considering about keeping it and get a charger, which at the end, is gonna be needed fpr charge those 3S - 4S packs. By any chance do you know this one? I like it the simplicity, with everything ready to charge, and not the hassle of getting charger and power supply separated

Tenergy TB6-B Balance Charger Discharger 1S-6S Digital Battery Pack Charger for NiMH/NiCD/Li-PO/Li-Fe Packs LCD Hobby Battery Charger w/ Tamiya/JST/EC3/HiTec/Deans Connectors + Power Supply 01435

u/devsfan1830 · 1 pointr/multicopterbuilds

Thanks for taking the time to respond. That GPS was absolutely my mistake. Clicked the wrong listing on ebay. Already replaced it on an updated BOM. Definitely will mount it up and away from the electronics. Though the more I think on it I may just leave it off until i get used to normal flight.

I may still prefer the LEDs for orientation purposes. At least in the beginning. Theyre cheap enough. Same thing with the buzzer. My updated BOM has one that has the LEDs and Buzzer together.

This is the charger. Tenergy TB6-B Balance Charger Discharger 1S-6S Digital Battery Pack Charger for NiMH/NiCD/Li-PO/Li-Fe Packs w/ LCD Display Hobby Battery Charger w/ Tamiya/JST/EC3/HiTec/Deans Connectors + Power Supply seems to come with everything i need but I can get a beefier supply if you think its wise. Pics have the included one at 5 Amps.

Ill look into the making the smokestopper as well. Thaks again!

u/ZeroMercuri · 1 pointr/Nerf

This is what I use but it's probably overkill. I had to solder on an XT60 connector to the open connector though since it didn't come with an XT60 already. Still, it's a great charger and I haven't had any problems with it.

u/obviouslymetoo · 1 pointr/rccars

I consider this an entry level charger: Tenergy TB6-B. It does 1S-6S and a lot of connector types. Does Lipo and most other chemistries too. Would be pretty slow at 6s but it's light years ahead of the stock charger for a 8000mAh 2S battery I use (~90m iirc.)

u/Infintely · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

Nitecore is recommended alot on this sub. I haven't used them myself but they seem to be very good and for a reasonable price. They have the 4 slot and the 2 slot available.

edit- Also 10 dollars is about what a good battery(sony vtc4) will cost you. You could probably find them a tiny bit cheaper but 10 dollars isn't bad.

u/x2kjok · 1 pointr/RBA

Do you have an ohm meter? You will need one to make sure you build safely.

Magnet switch:

I was thinking fatdaddyvapes but the fusion mods link is much cheaper.

Full transparent tank:
Tank + chimney + top cap $5:

Charger: Nitecore i4 $15

Battery: Sony VTC5 $10

u/Caleb323 · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

So I could just buy this, this, and this and it would work great?

u/beatcoder · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

Not a fan of the xtar because of the spacers. But the Nitecore IntelliCharger i4 Charger... butter.

u/zoident · 1 pointr/vaporents

Yes but I'm pretty sure it will charge pretty slowly, hell even the wall charger sucks. I suggest getting a to use with your 18650s

u/supertofu · 1 pointr/flashlight

You can get a Fenix 18650 battery and charger at MEC (membership required). The Fenix battery is a "flat top", not all 18650 flashlights can use it. If you want to pay less for a charger, Amazon has the NiteCore i4.

u/dijoridont · 1 pointr/Vaping

You can find it cheaper elsewhere, but a single bay charger won't help you in your current situation. No pun intended

u/shroom_throwaway9722 · 1 pointr/preppers

This one for USB (not sure about quality or reliability) or if you can figure out a way to get 12v out of your panels then get this one (well-built, far better)

u/Zak · 1 pointr/flashlight

The Nitecore/Jetbeam Intellicharger charges both Li-ion and nickel-based batteries, but I do understand not wanting to deal with extra stuff, which is why I suggested getting something with built-in MicroUSB charging.

u/jesus_h_pizza · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

For your Batteries? Nitcore i4, easily. It's got a safety cut out and great charge time, and it's the best value for the money. I love my Nitecore. Well built, definitely can see and feel the build quality between that and my old Trustfire.

Here it is on Amazon for cheap:;amp;qid=1416037391&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=nitecore+intellicharger+i4&amp;amp;pebp=1416037395738

u/PUSSYANDMEMES · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

Sorry I really don't know what details to give. This is all foreign to me.

So this, this , and this
will start me off? Do you "build" this stuff? Sorry for not knowing anything please bear with me

u/Xexist · 1 pointr/Canadian_ecigarette

This is the one I bought, been working well for me

u/Zzedr · 1 pointr/ECR_UK

On the charger I have the nitecore i4 you can charge up to 4.35v I believe, well, that’s what it says on the screen.

I’ve gone ahead and ordered 4 batteries from Fogstar (amazing price and discount so thanks guys for the heads up), and will fully charge those batteries. The more I come to think of it, the more I think the batteries may just now be completely spent from constant charging only to 3.7 and nothing more.

So just to clarify one last thing, because I seem to be a complete mong when it comes to the batteries, the charger i have is this one:

Nitecore Intellicharge I4 V2 Universal 4 Channel Li-Ion/Ni-Cd/Ni-Mh Smart Charger

I should charge at 4.2v as 3.7v is a nominal charge and the batteries can only charge up to 4.2v anyway right?

The 4.35v is just what the charger could charge up to but the batteries are limited.

If the above is correct I think I get you now and thanks for your help! Would just appreciate if you confirm



u/FitChemist432 · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

sure, Here for a nice charger. This is the one i use and it was around $40 until a month ago. For batteries i suggest these, or these. For reference, they are both IMR chemistry batteries which is good, The price difference stems from the mAh difference. Having used both myself, the 2000 mAh efest will last just about all day (unless I'm partying or drinking) and is a good deal but the green ones are 3400mAh, giving you roughly 2 days per battery. Also noteworthy, the green ones charge in about three hours on the charger I listed.

You may be able to find better deals on the batteries out there but not likely for the charger. Because of this, I intentionally went with amazon, so you could save a bit on shipping.

Edit: added paragraph 2.

u/illuxion · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

zmax is a tad off. When I take batts out of my nitecore charger I get 4.1 with a zmax, 4.0 with and evic, 4.2 with a SID, but a NIST calibrated fluke 87 with Agilent leads tells the truth with this and in the charger.

u/funnychicken · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

From what I understand it's a lot more likely for the internal electronics to overcharge the batteries to the point of failure than an external charger. The other plus side to an external charger is that you can have a set of batteries that is always charged to you never get stuck with a dead mod. They're pretty cheap too:;amp;qid=1449954397&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=nightcore+i4

u/dePeatrick · 1 pointr/Vaping101

I picked up an Intillicharger about 3 yrs ago after some looking around, still working fine...can't remember how much I paid for it but was on a budget and was pleasantly surprised how affordable it was.

This was the one.... Price here Under 20 bucks :)

u/hiphopopotamus1 · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I just bought my RX200. The vape shop salesman did not say anything about this.

I purchased Aspire ICR 18650 High Discharge with it. Would this charger work?;amp;qid=1452223039&amp;amp;sr=8-6&amp;amp;keywords=18650+battery+charger

u/jongery · 1 pointr/radiocontrol

Nice find on the holders! I didn't even think about looking for holders like that... I just found these..

I currently have one of these. It would be so much easier and cost effective than purchasing another charger, and soldering up balancer leads on my diagram...

The Opus BT is really nice, I like the data screens for each individual cell.


u/gizm0o · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

Charger - Nitecore i4


I love my Vamo V3 in '350 mode when I want a simple setup on the go with my Protank and in '650 when im at home on the computer and I dont want to fog the place with my mech.

u/Cygnarite · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette;amp;qid=1420216277&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=Purple+efest+18650;amp;qid=1420216331&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=nitecore+4+bay+charger

75+35+16 = 126

Yeah, $126 &lt;&gt; $110, but I didn't exactly shop around either. I spent 5 minutes compiling that list. With a little googling and a coupon code, you could probably get that down to 115 without too much effort.

I may have been basing the 110 low end from some holiday sales prices I saw.

u/DustForVomit · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

You can get them at Amazon for $22.49, and 2-day shipping is free if you have Prime.

I would rather pay the extra $2.49 and get it faster and be pretty sure that I'm not going to get a vibrator instead.

u/veryconfusing · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I recently threw out what is likely the same charger you are referring to.
I replaced it with this. (Nitecore 4 slot charger) and it's one of the best cheap items I have ever purchased. The slide action on the adjustable slots is excellent and it's fast !

u/thenry28 · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

The have intellicharger i4's on amazon too.

u/rumcore · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I wouldn't pay much more than 30 bucks for a Nemesis clone. Plenty of places online to get one for that. I got an HCigar from Shipping was fast and added one dollar to the price.

Sony VTC5's are 10 bucks at illuminationsupply.

Intellicore i4 charger is $15.40 thru Amazon.

If you want to support your local B&amp;M, go for it. Or, support them by buying $50 worth of juice from them with the money you saved.

u/theturtlegame · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

Another rec for i4. Can be had for &lt;$16 - amazing utility for the price

u/jlaw30 · 1 pointr/ecigclassifieds

Have a Vamo V5 with 4 efest batteries for sale here

Also, a Nitecore i4 charger for $17 on Amazon. I use it and it works wonderfully.

u/Daniel7355608 · 1 pointr/Waxpen;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;smid=A38GBW24HDG5AI this is a charger made to charge that type of battery. It's really high rated and sold directly from amazon so thats basically a waranty

u/dbasket · 1 pointr/Vaping101

Im looking at the I4 and some LG batteries

I'll eventually get into rebuilding, but for now I want a system with pre-built coils that are trustworthy and affordable; so Im looking at the TVF4 mostly. The Quad Coil seems to have the best performance but it doesn't list what metals the coils are made of. Because of that I may just get the stainless steal low ohms coils. I'm emailing Smok to get more info now

u/Savens · 1 pointr/Vaping

Thanks for replying. Looking at this for an external charger since people are saying the RX200 USB charging isn't safe/great:

Also, since I'm going to be using the RX200 with Herakles Plus and LG HG2, effectively what settings would I have to change on the device?

  • Amps, Temperature Control, Watts? Anything else? &amp; to what?
u/a_horse_with_no_tail · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

OK, I don't see where that link says it's a V2.

You can check here:

I asked because I got my vamo kit with the Nitecore charger a few weeks ago, and had the same issue. I did some searching around online and read that FastTech ships the vamo kits with the V1 chargers, which have the problem with getting too hot. I really don't know how true any of that is, but I returned my charger and bought a V2 from Amazon. But yeah, I had the extreme heat while charging and also the burning plastic smell. So, return it, it's not normal.

editing to add, I got my 14 v2 from amazon for just a dollar more.

u/TDurdz · 1 pointr/ecigclassifieds

It's unlikely to find one used on here... if you're not in a rush:

And if you are in a rush this ships via Amazon prime

u/ajv11223 · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

No problem! I'm just glad I can be of some help, just "vaping it forward" haha.

So as far as's not like the charger your using currently. It's a charger for the battery that goes into the Vamo. It's a rechargeable battery charger. You can even put AA's in there if you have any rechargeable ones. It has a little meter that shows the progress of your battery as its charging and when it's fully charged it cuts off so you don't have to worry so much about overcharging. It can hold 4 in case you decide to get some extra batteries as well!

My set up isn't necessarily that great, but it works for me. I mainly use an SVD which is similar to the Vamo, an Efest 18650 Nipple top battery (charged with a Nitecore intellicharger i4) and a Kanger Protank 2. Pretty similar to what you're interested in. Works for me.

edit: this is the charger i was talking about, that you can order from that site i linked:;amp;psc=1 .

no problem though, any more questions?

u/flatulentdisaster · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

Have you tried looking at the nitecore intellicharger? They're not terrible money on amazon. I've had great luck with my i2, although I've had it since end of June but they're supposed to he great.;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165
I don't know where you're located but that's a link for US. Happy Vaping!

u/thebuffather · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

Okay, thank you. Going to pick up a Nitecore IntelliCharger i4 then. Thank you!

u/badst33l · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

you can get the i2 and i4 on Amazon if you have a prime subscription. Price is pretty comparable.

u/kleinjesse · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

I am building a proof-of-concept/prototype at the moment. Once I cobble it all together and confirm that it works, I will have to pay someone to design everything into a single PCB.

I was leaning towards this solution for the prototype:

12V 6A AC Adpater

LM2596 Buck Converter

u/C0ckPitt · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

For my project I used the LM2596 at first too. But the load i used (2A at 5V) heated up the converter way too high for my taste. So I bought a pretty overpowered but higher quality and more efficient step-down module. I'm very happy with it, because it doesn't get warm at all.

u/tugrumpler · 1 pointr/TinyHouses

I use a 2kw Honda generator for emergency charging through a 20amp marine battery charger and for running the large power tools. I built a DC generator for every day charging using a Harbor Freight gas engine and a 40 amp car alternator. I have two Walmart deep cycle marine batteries which are adequate but not very long life, eventually I'll replace them with four Trojan T-105 golf cart batteries. It's critically important not to discharge them more than 50% nor to let them sit partially charged any longer than absolutely necessary. To keep up on charge state I very highly recommend a charge monitor like this.

I have not built my solar system yet but will be using two to three 250 watt panels with a midnight solar MPP charge controller. I use very little AC power so a small Xantrex 600 watt sine wave inverter is sufficient.

I am wiring my cabin with two AC circuits and a few DC outlets, all lighting will be DC LEDs (as in these with small dc/dc power converter boards, I put eight of these in my boat and have two in the camper for the time being, lots of light and only 90ma ea). I haven't decided how much AC I'll be using but I've used DC exclusively for the last year in my 22' camper as I get my site ready to build. I am using an RV fridge that runs on propane and a Mr Heater 18kbtu propane heater, I pay about $25 a month for propane and that will balance out in summer when the fridge takes more to cool and the heater isn't used.

I do not see the need for large inverters unless you come across one used that also contains a large marine (3-stage) battery charger - if I had one I wouldn't use the DC generator as much. I don't run microwaves or electric appliances, just a small tv and small loads that are quick to charge like a Nintendo DS, iPhone, mp3 player and tiny speaker system.

Passive cooling with shade trees and wood fired heating are best if you're off grid. Controlling demand is easy once you get used to it, you do not need a big inverter and in fact they waste a lot of power when they're searching for a load so you're better off with small ones.

Oh and wire to hook it all up is expensive, I use this which is a fraction of the cost of marine stores, it's welding cable so it's practically burn proof and it's extremely flexible. You just need a big hot torch to solder lugs on it because the bare copper conducts the heat away quicker than tinned wire does.

Good luck.

Edit - these Astroenergy panels are what I'm considering, this vendor seems to have good prices at least on panels.

u/teh_trout · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

I'm not sure if I completely understand the zener regulators but it seems to me as though the power consumption of simple one is going to be wildly high with such a large difference between input and output voltages.

Perhaps if I can ensure the voltage does not jump too high and the current demands are low enough one of these switching regulators will work well:

Too bad they're fairly pricey.

Edit: Better yet something like this:

u/whereiswallace · 1 pointr/DIY

Yea, I'll give that a try.

I just checked out your buck converter (I think it's this one) and it says the max current output is 3A. Odd (but good for you :D ) that you're not running into any problems.

u/MasterYandle · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

I'm assuming that the light bar is hardwired into the vehicle, so a good place to start would be to figure out what voltage its operating at, then look up relays. You can use the zero to control a relay to do the switching for you, but you'd also have to add blue-tooth capabilities to your zero in order to remotely control it.

There are also relays that have blue-tooth built in.

Both the zero and blue-tooth relay will need to be powered with 5v from somewhere. If you're going to do that from your vehicles 12v system (making assumptions again), you'll need to look into a step down power converter. Or some kind of battery pack that will last you all day.

All of these things will require at a minimum a voltage meter for probing your power inputs and outputs (don't want to fry anything) and basic soldering skills / equipment.

edit: words

u/katemonster33 · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

For powering from the 7.5v, I used a buck converter from amazon:

I ordered a few, they're really simple to use, just solder onto the input voltage holes, plug in the PSone adapter, and with a multimeter attached to the output voltage holes, adjust the little screw on top of the blue box until you read ~5VDC.

The video pinout is here:

Bear in mind: it's possible to output a full component video signal to the PSone screen if you use an HDMI to component video converter. If you don't want a separate HDMI output then that might be a good way to go. Otherwise, wire the video to pin 6 and solder the screen's board the way I did to get the screen to show video.

I'll make another post for the PSX controller. The whole article for setting up the GPIO is very bad. It's also buggy...I'll get into that.

u/will1384 · 1 pointr/electronics

You could always do the opposite and remove the battery, then power with something like a LM2596 DC-DC Module, something like:

I did that on one of my 10 inch tablets, and mounted the tablet to a monitor swing arm, works perfect, just adjust the LM2596 DC-DC Module to what your battery was putting out.

On my 10 inch tablet I had the LM2596 DC-DC Module set to 5v, and ran another 5v+ wire from the LM2596 DC-DC converter to the USB connector, I ran this extra wire so the tablet believes the battery is charging, if not the tablet will try and shutdown because it thinks your battery is draining.

u/Nevada421 · 1 pointr/arduino

Assuming the by RAW port, you mean the VIN port, you're already likely using a 7805 that apparently has a current limit of 200mA. Assuming you're driving the LEDs directly from digital pins, using I = V/R you can roughly calculate the current you're consuming, where V is 5, and R is the value of the resistor in series with the LED. This will calculate the current consumption for each LED. Note that while the total current consumption shouldn't exceed 200mA, the total current consumption per pin shouldn't exceed 20mA. In fact, for the pro-micro, the recommended per pin limit is 10mA.
If you need to drive some additional current, the solution is to isolate the signal from driving the LEDs. Using a darlington array (like a ULN2003) is a simple solution. Then upgrade the dc supply with a buck regulator like this, and adjust the output to 5V(or 3.3V if it's a 3.3V version) , and connect the output directly to the Arduino's 5V rail (or 3.3V if it's a 3.3V version).

u/jared213 · 1 pointr/OpenPV

I used a LM2596 DC-DC Buck Converter Step Down Module Power Supply Output 1.23V-30V on my first one.;amp;psc=1

For me it works great, I like it better than my vamo v3 but someone suggested for my next build I use an okr. I don't really know much about them besides what I've gathered here.
Anyway I'm sure it's better but what are the benefits to the okr t10 compared with the buck converter.
BTW I'm planning on using 2 18350's and carving a wood box with sorta a pistol grip that fits in my hand really nicely.

u/Drewrox2009 · 1 pointr/esp8266

pot adjustable buck converters, for projects that have a constant power source, they work great.

but like i said i haven't tested them with batteries at all.;amp;psc=1;amp;psc=1

u/kroniktaco707 · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

thats a kit with crap batteries and a crap clearo.

This one is a little better (I recommend 18650 battery if you're an all day vaper), however just get everything separate. You will spend a LITTLE more money, but its better equipment and you'll be much happier.

What I suggest:

Vamo V5


VTC 4 Battery

V2 Aerotank
I seriously cannot recomment this tank enough!

You'll be much happier with this setup that isn't chinese garbage

u/0lof · 1 pointr/vaporents

I have an air coming in the mail. I would recommend either contacting arizer or just getting and external charger. this charger is a duel sled and works well also it's cheap.

u/HPPD2 · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I wouldn't order that from fasttech, you can get better quality stuff from us suppliers for a little more and have it in a week. hcigar nemesis is $30 from 101 vape when in stock or $40 elsewhere and better than the fasttech one. That fasttech patriot is 20mm I believe, you can get a nicer tobeco 22mm patriot on ebay for $17 shipped or so (I just got two, 101vape also has them). Get sony VTC4 batteries- sun vapers has them in stock for $10 right now. you can get a nitecore i2 with amazon prime for the same price as fasttech.;amp;hash=item27df5e5503;amp;hash=item2a387d40f6

or an i4:;amp;qid=1393724004&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=nitecore+i4

u/BenjiBonZ · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I use a Sony VCT5 battery

Intellicore i2 Charger

You'll probably want to pick up a good RDA. There are a ton out there, I prefer my Patriot clone with my Nemmy.

u/YaGottadoWhatYaGotta · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

Yeah apparently it was only the i2 version though, you can check out some images and reviews here.

It's starting to worry me.

u/Def-not-a-throwaway · 1 pointr/Waxpen

Highjacking top comment... I've already been just using the USB charger with my 2-battery mod, would it make sense to get a Nitecore D2 at this point or just do that when I replace these two batteries? Is the 'damage' already done, so to speak?

Also anyone know how this compares to the Nitecore D2?;amp;qid=1495096723&amp;amp;sr=8-7&amp;amp;keywords=Nitecore+D2

The D2 is quite a bit pricier in Canada, it looks like.

u/stinkybuttocks · 1 pointr/vaporents

Found this in Canada:



I just hope that battery isn't a fake.

u/daltesean · 1 pointr/Waxpen

Maybe try a different browser or a different profile on your computer. but here are the links...

Recommended Beginner Setup

u/dasganji · 1 pointr/vaporents

a simple plug-in charger for the air.. buy a 18650 battery charger like
u can charge your spare battery while using one in the air, if the one is empty the other is fully loaded ;-) vape non stop with no battery issues

u/wasomenes · 1 pointr/Vaping

If your in a pinch and need to charge on the go (say in your car or whatever) it works, but for best (and quicker) results. Charge enternally. Here is a link for an external charger.

Happy Vaping :)

u/SinfulRemedy · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

Depends if you're interested in the 18650 mechanical mods or more like box mods.

If you started on a kanger tank of any kind, most would consider a Nautilus an upgrade. But venturing further the Kayfun is probably a better option if you take the time to build and learn.

As for mods; You could use a Nautilus on an MVP 2.0 for a box mod. All the way up to DNA chip mods which just give you more exclusive control over your exact power input to the coil.

I started with an eGo-C and eventually decided to try new stuff. Clearomizers and different tanks. Kanger T3's to PT2. Cartos and all kinds of bs.

If I had to recommend you a set up via my personal tastes and through real testing. I would tell you to buy:

  1. Sony VTC-4 18650 battery as many as you'd like.
    VTC-4 Purchase LINK

  2. A mechanical mod like a Nemesis or Stingray.
    Nemesis Clone Purchase LINK

  3. 28 Gauge Kanthal for learning and use.
    Kanthal Purchase Link

  4. A charger.(You can use any kind you like but there are safety precautions to be had with batteries if you sub-ohm especially)
    Charger Purchase LINK

  5. A 510 connection ohm meter.
    Ohm Meter

  6. Organic Pure Cotton - Boiling them is your choice to do or not.
    Cotton LINK

    And your own e-liqid of course.

    None of these items are necessary to vape on and are not of a professionally organized list. But they'll definitely move you on up in the vaping world and your experience can be completely tailored however you like with these items.
u/coherent-rambling · 1 pointr/Multicopter

You're lucky you didn't burn your house down, but there's still time for that if you try to get creative without understanding different charge logics. Lithium batteries require a completely different type of charging (CC/CV) than NiMH (float or CC/peak), and there's no cute little circuit you can add to the X9D charger to make it play nicely with the 18650's. Even putting in a stepdown pack will essentially trickle charge the batteries, which can cause them to grow dendrites and be ruined if you don't have a way to monitor charge voltage and unplug the charger once it stabilizes.

Save yourself a lot of heartache and buy an 18650 charger to treat the cells right. If you don't like removing them to charge, you could also wire on a balance connector and use a LiPo charger, with appropriate settings.

u/pubhopper · 1 pointr/oilpen

Speaking of batteries, it's highly recommended to use an external charger like a nitecore, but if you are going to use the mod's usb, make sure to remove it from charging once it is fully charged. The mods aren't regulating the voltage and can overcharge the battery. That's when you hear of the horror stories of exploding vapes

u/DonOblivious · 1 pointr/bicycling

I use this light with this lens on my helmet. I highly recommend upgrading to this charger as the included charger is one of those "fire-prone safety hazards."

That particular light doesn't suffer the major downside the other "Cree T6" bike lights do because it uses bare cells (batteries) you can replace them easily. The standard "Cree T6 bike light" uses packs of 4 shitty cells that don't stay "balanced" (one cell will eventually discharge too low and it kills the entire battery pack).

The lens compresses the hotspot vertically and spreads it horizontally so you're less likely to blind drivers when you don't mean to. It's still easy to shine somebody, like a car at a crossroad that might not be planning on stopping for you, and makes it a lot easier to spot those bumps too.

One last thing: run the straps through the vents in your helmet rather than trying to strap around your helmet.

u/chief_shankaho · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

That price range is about right. I'd say it'll be on the lower side of that if you do some shopping around. Plus it depends on what you already have.

You'll need an 18650 mechanical mod like this one: (~$20)

A RDA if you want to blow clouds. I really like the tobh atty as a beginner RDA, but do your research for your purpose as something better may be out there: (~$20)

2 18650 batteries at least 20amps (they take a while to charge and after one is charged you should let it settle for a day or so, so 2 or more is best):;amp;qid=1419698688&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=efest+18650 (~$20)

BECOME FAMILIAR WITH STEAM-ENGINE.ORG. Basically, don't build a coil with a resistance so low that a higher amperage is demanded of the battery than it is rated to deliver. This is the basis for all the safety issues you hear about. That and shorts, both of which can be found and fixed with an...

Ohm Meter: (~$8)

Battery Charger:;amp;qid=1419698805&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=18650+nitecore+charger (~$15)

Kanthal: (~$8)

Organic Cotton: (~$3)

So in total that's ~ $95.

You'll also need a wire cutter, precision screwdriver set, drill bits etc, but those are household items or easily come by at harbor freight or lowes or something for cheap.

u/tournant · 1 pointr/Vaping

Trustfire chargers are shite. Get a Nitecore i2 for $13.

u/very_anti · 1 pointr/Waxpen

That's right. I'd get an 18650 mod like the eVic 60w with LG HG2 batteries, get a charger as well

u/Supercharged_Z06 · 1 pointr/flashlight

My advice, get a good 18650 battery charger like this one, some 18650 batteries and some eneloop NiMH batteries.

You'll then be able to explore all kinds of fantastic lights. USB chargers are just so very limiting, plus they take forever to charge.

u/achtagon · 1 pointr/askanelectrician

If I were to do this I'd use this battery holder, this set of batteries (cheap ones are junk, get from reputable source), and this charger. Probably want a switch in-line unless you're fine with taking out the batteries to shut it off. Could also jump up to a set of four batteries but I'd think that's overkill unless you're doing multi-hour rides.

u/Colemexy · 1 pointr/LostLandsMusicFest

Nah man
I literally mean it needs an wall outlet to plug into. There is no other way around this.

u/cremestick · 1 pointr/GrassHopperVape

This charger would probably be fine, maybe get the 4-bay version if you get more batteries. They charge back up to full pretty quickly though so it's not a big deal.

u/ShaneYoung · 1 pointr/flashlight

Just a heads up I am new to this form, so no way a expert but I use this nitecore charger that was recommend on another form.;psc=1

I have also saw others on here use this one with the LCD screen, if your into the numbers aspect.


Now for banggood , I did use paypal and used my credit card on there so I have 2 companies backing me for fraud protection but just like ebay I think they are mostly safe with some venders being bad apples. Just be willing to wait a month for your light with no tracking because they never update it. The company selling this light though sells a lot every day so I would not worry with this vender. Hope that helps if you have anymore questions I would be glad to help :)

u/thag_you_very_buch · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

Thanks. I like the 18350 form factor because the VAMO itself is already quite bulky and I'll be toting it in my pocket all day.

I just bought two of these as well as the Nitecore IntelliCharger i2. I've heard other bad things about TrustFire on this sub, so just going to splurge for another and try to get SmokTek to take these back.

u/060steve · 1 pointr/Vaping

If you have the money, go for: mod batteries charger atomizer or find it here
If not, go for mod this has an in-built battery and is charged via micro usb, which I'm sure you already have a charging cable for that you use with your phone. Same atomiser recommended. I live in the UK, so finding this stuff on US sites was tricky. Let me know if you're looking for something else though :)
Also, this is a great atomiser and this is a great intermediate mod between the other two with 65W of power, but note its requires batteries as the sigelei does

u/WbrJr · 1 pointr/techsupport

I could not find something usefull yet when searching for 18650 6s charger. I only found this Circuit and similar BMS. Or do you mean this?

And I though you just plug the power adapter and the load into P-/P+? But obviosly I am wrong. :) Can you advice a charger?

Thanks, WbrJr

u/TheSnakeThatVapes · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

Ok thank you. What type of charger would you reccomend for it? Would this be adequate enough?;amp;psc=1

u/Thereptilia · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

If you don't mind waiting fast tech is great heres a great rda and good mod for $15

Also grab an ohm reader there as well for $5

Here's some kanthal I suggest 26 gauge 25 feet Is about $4

Also pick up a battery for about $8 or two for $14 (worth having a backup battery) use the coupon "lv15" for 15% off

I'd suggest this charger for $12;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40&amp;amp;dpPl=1&amp;amp;dpID=41E7nbJ5btL&amp;amp;ref=plSrch

And these screwdrivers if your local dollar store doesn't have it for $4;amp;condition=all

Roughly under $50 for a good setup in my opinion

u/MistahTrouble · 1 pointr/Vaping

I heard some really good things about the TFV4. My batteries last me a good couple of hours maybe a day depends on your usage &amp; I recently bought my battery charger from Amazon &amp; it came in the mail today but I'm at work. I will let you know. This is the one I bought,;amp;redirect=true&amp;amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

u/splitSeconds · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

This /r/ warned me about the dangers of ... getting more stuffs. I'm really enjoying the Subox Mini. It's works just great for me and is a much more satisfying experience than the 1st gen cartomizer based ecigs I used and gave up on years ago.

My beginner problem was that I ordered a sampler pack. Well, I'm on day 4 and I'm only now just about to finish my first tank. So in theory, just to try all the other flavors (5 more) would take me 20 days.

Ended up ordering two more tanks so I could get some variety. A 1 x Subtank Mini and 1 x Subtank Nano. I figure this way I could use the two minis for my staple flavors and my Nano can be my test tank for future flavors since the capacity is smaller.

And if I stopped there, I'd be a reasonable man. But no. Then it's like, well - would be nice to have a pouch for transporting stuff and maybe I'll buy into the whole use an external charger thing... and while I'm at it I guess I will pick up a spare battery... oh on sale 2 for X price? ... then I guess I should be safe and get some battery cases... etc. etc.

What have you done to me?

u/cali805vapor · 1 pointr/ecigclassifieds

I can throw in a battery for $38 shipped. The battery will be charged. Sorry no charger. I would recommend the Nitecore i2.

Pm if you're interested.

u/is_it_beer_30_yet · 1 pointr/Dashcam

Ok, so something like this? 12v input into cigarette port connect to 12v input of module and 12v output of module connect to 12v neutral wire coming from cigarette port? Then 5v output on module goes to dashcam wire?


u/apathycoalition · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

If you've got a good power supply the pi will be able to run the arduino. You'll still need a power supply for your stepper. If done properly you could use a 12V to 5V step down converter and run the entire thing from the 12V supply.

If you're this far into a project already why are you just now asking about power requirements? This should have been the very first thing you addressed.

u/under_design · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Get a 12v -&gt; 5v inverter and connect it to the cigarette lighter port (hack an already existing one?). It'll power up and down with car ignition. Make it automatically join your home wifi network, and sync folders when it joins that network, and expect it'll do that every time you pull into the garage, and let it idle for a minute to ensure upload has completed.

u/GanondalfTheWhite · 1 pointr/woodworking

Oh, that part's not too difficult. You could get a 12v power supply, and step that down to 5v for the Pi. Use the 12v for the LEDs and the 5v for the Pi (just cut up a micro usb cable and solder the wires to the power supply output, easy to find how-tos for that online) . Then use the Pi to drive 3 transistors (Google 'raspberry Pi led transistor' for that). The transistors act like switches - controlled by the Pi but with the power coming from the 12v supply.

Does that make sense?

Edit: here's one option for your step down convertor.

u/PickleSlice · 1 pointr/homeassistant

Here's what I think I've settled on - Thoughts?

Magic Home RGB controller - Flash with ESPHome

BTF-LIGHTING WS2811 - 12v, 60led per meter, individually addressable.

Power Supply - 12v, 5a, 60w - Do I need to step this down to power the Magic Home with 5v, and the strip qith 12v, or can the MAgic Home handle 12v?

Step-Down - If I do need to step down.

u/isanyonekeepingtrack · 1 pointr/Reprap

You need a DC-DC converter. They're pretty cheap on Amazon. Then just run the output from that to the 5V power pins on the GPIO connector on the rpi. The downside of doing it this way is that you'll have to make sure you do an ordered shutdown of the raspberry pi if you power things off. They were too cheap to put a PMU chip on the raspberry pi.

It'll work fine for Octoprint. I use smaller Nanopi Neo boards without issue. Don't do slicing on it though.

u/rw950431 · 1 pointr/ifttt

If you have the solar charging bit worked out you can buy 12v to 5v converters (example;amp;qid=1501760134&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=12v+to+5v+converter or theres lots of others). Otherwise you can buy the complete solar usb powerbank kind of thing. Be warned though- I bought one to power my Wemos project but the current drain from the Wemos is not sufficient to keep the powerbank activated so it runs for a minute or so then shuts off :-(

u/SmileAndDonate · 1 pointr/ifttt

Info | Details
Amazon Product | SMAKN Dc/dc Converter 12v Step Down to 5v/3a Power Supply Module
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u/ChrisVza · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

I like using 12V switch mode PSU units for my gadgets. They're cheaper and expandable for other purposes. The PI is 5V if I'm not mistaken. You'd need to step the voltage down to 5V.

Check out these links:

u/OmegaArsenis · 1 pointr/xboxone

Yeah most chargers for double A batteries are crappy, they charge super slow
This are the batteries I have

Energizer Rechargeable AA Batteries, NiMH, 2300 mAh, Pre-Charged, 8 count (Recharge Power Plus)

And this is the charger, I guess it only has 3 lights

Energizer Rechargeable AA and AAA Battery Charger (Recharge Pro) with 4 AA NiMH Rechargeable Batteries, Auto-Safety Feature, Over-charge Protection

u/elangab · 1 pointr/xboxone

I just got 4 rechargeable AA kit with a charger, each run is good for about 2 weeks of 2-3 hours gaming per day. Something like that one -;amp;qid=1497839136&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=energizer+charger

Don't see a reason to invest with the kits.

u/DBook04 · 1 pointr/xboxone

I hear you, I did that for the first couple of years and a friend told me to make the investment on these Energizer bad boys. One of the best investments I've made so far, still using the same 4 batteries that I bought back in 2015. I bought 4 more as a luxury and now I never run out of battery life. These are extremely reliable batteries my friend.

u/AJDubs · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I like my nitecore chargers, never had a problem with them Amazon has their 4 bay intellicharger for 19 bucks

u/blhylton · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

Okay, assuming those are real (I have my doubts when it comes to FastTech), those are 10A max draw batteries. Not really a big deal if you don't plan to sub-ohm, but these Samsung 25Rs are honestly a better buy and will carry you safely all the way down to ~0.275 ohms should you ever decide to build a low resistance dripper.

As /u/sadosmurf said, the Nitecore charger can be found on Amazon for a bit cheaper. Actually, you could get the Nitecore i4 for just a little bit more than what you're paying for the i2 on FT.

u/KaboomOrange · 1 pointr/Nerf
u/pogtheawesome · 1 pointr/Vaping101

theoretically would this work? It's the same brand but cheaper

u/jonb622 · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

Get a high quality battery charger.

Something like this

u/ThatAgnosticGuy · 1 pointr/EntExchange

Yeah batteries like this.

And if you have an external charger you'll never worry about power again.

I have a Pax 2, and while the battery life is good and I know the Pax 3 is a decent unit, the removable battery of the Davinci won it for me.

Sorry to hear about your performance though. I still love my FF, it works great except for the overheating. But my tolerance is increasing and I'd like a cake that can handle more flower at a time.

Edit: Typo

u/dcabines · 1 pointr/onebag

I have an old 4 bay Tomo powerbank that was like that. The Xtar seems to be better, but I've been swapping out batteries and charging them in a wall charger so I'm not confident about the Xtar's phantom drain. I think an experiment is in order!

u/BaconVape · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette
u/OCDecaf · 1 pointr/vaporents

Checking it out now. Thank you so much

Shit this looks so much better

Thinking I’m gonna get this one Nitecore New i4 2016 Intellicharger Smart Battery Charger for Li-ion IMR Ni-MH NiCd

u/Foxer604 · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

well that is some bullshit - the other versions could be. Don't know what smok was thinking there.

Anyway - here's a link to an external charger - nothing fancy but it will definitely get the job done.;amp;qid=1572916316&amp;amp;sr=8-21

u/similar_observation · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

first thing first. Get an appropriate charger. The USB is pretty much only good for fixing your firmware. A better charger will determine/fix your battery issues. 0.35v and 5.85v are waaaay off, showing a dead/explosive battery.

The Nitecore i4 is excellent, but if you want a fancy one, the D2 is only a few dollars more.

next, try reinstalling the firmware for your rx200. You can get it here.

I've leaked juice into my reuleaux rx200 this week, I just wiped everything down and it was peachy again (ymmv). I can't promise anything, but lets see if this works.

u/hotwingsandcoldbeer · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

Separate charger. I use this. Was a time when it was the darling of ECR but I think there are others too.

u/PAYE1 · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I see,

Going to be ordering a charger soon

think this is good for the HG2s?

Is it fine that just for now that I charge within the mod for now and when that comes use it to balance charge them?

u/adamcboyd · 1 pointr/Vaping

I have this charger...;amp;psc=1

And these batteries (three kinds);amp;psc=1 (a week old and not holding charge at all);amp;psc=1 (at least a year old)

and (probably about 7-10 months old)

I'm sure now this is all wrong and would love the explanation of what I did wrong so I can avoid it again and suggestions on what to buy to maximize my battery life. Even if that means going to a different coil resistance. I am not interested in rebuilding my own however. Thanks again for such quick replies.

u/Maggurt · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I went with this one , was recommended by my friend at work. And I am digging the free Prime 2 Day shipping haha.

u/Poop_Cheeks · 1 pointr/Vaping
u/OneSchott · 1 pointr/oculus

This is the charger I have. It can do AA, AAA, and even my 18650 batteries. You don't need to worry about charging batteries that don't have build in over charge protection either because this will stop charging on its own.;amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

u/noized · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I'd also like to recommend for you a Nitecore D2 charger and purchase some good batteries over at, I personally use Samsung 25r's but you can check out Mooch's battery list for other great cells. Battery safety should be a priority but it's really nothing to worry about as long as you have a good charger and good batteries.

Link to 25r battery:


If you have any questions you could hit me up or ask in the questions thread.

u/josephcsible · 1 pointr/flashlight

Okay, I think this is the flashlight I'm going to get. Follow-up question: what battery and charger should I get for it? From what I've read about this light, it will work with either button-top or flat-top, and it has built-in low-voltage protection, so I don't need a protected cell. As for the charger, I'm leaning toward either the Nitecore D2 or the Olight portable magnetic charger. Are either of these good choices?

u/Uptoker · 1 pointr/vaporents

Wow thank you for detailed response. Could you link me an adapter that is meant for the air? I can't see one jumping off the page :( sorry! No bother if you don't I'll keep looking.

This charger?

u/CaptRon25 · 1 pointr/flashlight

It's a good charger, but it doesn't display the voltage like this one does.

As a someone who is new to handling lithium ion batteries, it would be a good thing for you to know what the voltage is so you didn't wear your cell down to nothing. You will eventually keep track of it in your mind, and pretty much know when it needs charging by how much you use your light.

I'm just saying, buy a couple quality cells and at least a semi intelligent charger. Jumping into the world of lithium ion, you'll be glad you did, and you will have less worries and more fun.

u/InterstellarOwls · 1 pointr/vaporents

I recommend something much more reputable like thisit will be safer and offers more features, plus much faster charging.

u/iamextremelysick · 1 pointr/vaporents

Honestly, this is the best deal you're going to find as long as you only need to charge two batteries at once. Spend the $16 now and never have to worry about it again.

u/88silber · 1 pointr/CampingGear

Here's what I use... It doesn't totally fit the bill for you, but other readers who want an ultracheap, ultraversatile high end light setup for hiking may be interested.

Convoy S2:

Beam Diffuser: (so you can use the light as a lamp at camp)

Red lens: (don't quote me if it fits, reviews suggest it will)

Lanyard: (So that it's attached to your pack's arm strap while on your head, fuck dropping your light in a puddle.)

Head strap: etc


Batteries: Up for debate, you want protected li-ion cells with the most mah's you can get. panasonic samsung sony aw etc are all good cells.

Bam. All in one you have an insanely bright and floody headlamp, a flashlight and a camping lamp, with no chance of dropping it while transitioning from headlamp to flashlight, a bit of water resistance, and no dirt/debris issues (like you would have with a zoomer.) The setup is great for people who want to take the approach of "flashlight that can be a headlamp." If you're looking for a headlamp that can double as a flashlight, zebra makes good ones and I'm sure nitecore would have some offerings.

IMO if you're not hiking through a place where you could buy AA/AAA batteries there's no reason you should not be using 18 li-ion cells. The only advantage to AA/AAA/cr setups is that you can pop into town and run your light off of batteries from the store shelf. If you're hiking the PCT or traveling away from home such a setup makes sense because there's towns and such along the way but if you're hiking a mountain or in the wilderness you'd be foolish not to be using 18 li-ion cells.

u/1011000100001100 · 1 pointr/flashlight

I have the nitecore d2, which is a dual bay charger. I've got only one light and realistically only buying 2 more in the future.

There's also the new nitecore ui2, which is more compact and allows for usb charging, but I can't vouch for it since I don't own it.

So far I'm happy with my d2.

u/LocalMachine · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

Sure it will, you just need one of these. That DC port on my IPV D2 scares the hell out of me.

u/Camo5 · 1 pointr/flashlight

LG MJ1 4-pack for $23 with coupon BLF is my suggestion, your zebralight has built in low voltage protection (not that it's an issue anyway IMO, unless you regularly forget you left a flashlight on overnight on your kitchen table).

If you get a nitecore light, you'll need button top batteries.

Do you have a charger?

Xtar VC4 &lt;-- My Recommendation VP2 or VC2+

Nitecore D2 or D4

u/ALTAlR · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

Any separate chargers that you recommend? Something like this?

u/elmoe420 · 1 pointr/Waxpen

I like this guy a lot for charging:

Most of my cells themselves are AW IMR from W9 tech.

u/techpoi · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

^^ I do the same except mine has a 4 port battery charger. Definitely highly recommend doing this.

Here is the one I have

u/h2ogie · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

This is a really solid and pretty affordable option. 4 ports is all you should need, and in the case of you getting a VTC mini, I'd recommend getting one just to cover your bases and make sure you never run out of batteries, and to prepare in the (likely) case you get another mod or two (or fucking five, in my case).

If you don't wanna shell out for the 4-port, here's the same thing just with two ports.

And in case you were worried, chargers are fine to buy from Amazon. Batteries, however, are not, and should be bought from sites made specifically for that purpose (e.g.

u/doggscube · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

NiteCore-D4+CAR-Adapter+BBOX-T Bundle Nitecore D4 Charger Integrated LCD Panel Display for Li-Ion Ni-MH Ni-Cd Batteries with EASTSHINE Car Adapter and EASTSHINE Battery Box

I also have a two cell nitecore charger that still works fine.

u/TheCryptic · 1 pointr/Vaping101

Unfortunately there is no singular "best device", there are many different devices out there to choose from depending on what you're looking for... And what you're looking for may very well change with time as well.

Most of the higher end mods (the battery part of the kit) use 18650 rechargeable batteries, which does add a bit to your startup costs for charger, batteries, and generally a more expensive mod.

Personally I prefer smaller single-battery mods like the Sigelei Spark, and for the price it's a pretty sweet deal. Some people prefer larger devices that use two batteries together for higher performance, but that just isn't me.

The tank could also be a tough choice. I've been using a Kanger Subtank Mini for the past year or so, and it does great for me. It comes with a rnebuildable atomizer (RBA) so I can make my own coils, but you can also buy replaceable coils if you prefer. There are more tasks out there than you can shake a stick at, and one person's love will be another's hate... But I think the subtank isn't a bad place to start, they're reliable, adjustable, easy to maintain, and easy to find.

Of course there are decent kits that include a tank and rechargeable unit without a replaceable battery if you're not looking to get that fancy. Something like the Kanger Subvod Mega or Joyetech eGo One might fit the bill.

I linked several different shops on purpose, I've had good experiences with all of them, but of course there are many more out there too. If you have a good brick and mortar vape shop in your area it's worth a visit to see what they have and might recommend.

u/wtf-m8 · 1 pointr/Waxpen

/u/maxvapor710 has the drag on his site for a very competitive rate, and sells (18650) batteries as well. You can charge on the mod but it's nice to have extras you can just swap out, and for that an external charger is the way to go, and probably a bit safer as well. This is the one I have though I only paid $32 for it one year ago.

u/1000m · 1 pointr/Surface

Apparently so. An eBay search turns them up.

[Edit] Also, This Nitecore charger at Amazon will charge AAAA.

u/Bulldogg658 · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Actually, I could run it off of something like this then right? Then I'd have all the capacity I could possibly use and long term storage.

u/w00kie_d00kie · 1 pointr/telescopes

I bought this telescope too on Prime Day. I'm also researching what accessories are recommended. So here's something I didn't know. The GOTO computer thingy runs on 8 AA batteries. If your moving around a lot, the batteries get toasted pretty quickly. Turns out we can get a rechargeable lithium ion battery pack for about $30.00.

There's also the option AC adapter for about $20.00. Celestron sells a "Power Tank" power source, but that doesn't seem like such a good purchase.

If you need to update the software on the GOTO system, apparently Celestron didn't include the needed cable. That's another $14.00. But the thing is, that cable is an ancient 9 pin interface, and isn't compatible with a lot of laptops. You may also need an adapter for another $14.00. Or you can opt for the Wifi adapter for $90.00.

To set the computer up, you need to manually enter a lot of data about your location. Once you power down, the data is lost. Celestron has this GPS device which seems to have pretty good reviews.

That's a lot of accessories. Not sure what exactly I've gotten myself into. I just wanted to stargaze. lol

u/nonother · 1 pointr/BurningMan

Looks like it uses a 2.1mm barrel plug (but I can’t be sure from that product listing, there’s a chance it’s a less common 2.5mm barrel plug).

If so you can easily use any 12v battery pack with a 2.1mm connector. Here’s one that uses AA batteries.

Alternatively you can use a rechargeable one with a 2.1mm male to male cable.

u/ninjamckickass · 1 pointr/AskElectronics
u/trustych0rds · 1 pointr/telescopes

Honestly many people aren’t aware that portable Li-ion batteries are super cheap and lightweight in 2019. This one is $29, 0.7kg and lasts 10 hours no problem.

In my opinion, GoTo alignment being a pain seems overexaggerated. I’m not sure if GoTo used to be difficult when the technology was new, or if there are a few bad brands giving it all a bad name, but even with polar aligning it shouldn’t take much longer than five minutes once you get the hang of it. I’ll
give you 10 if you’re a little slow.

If there is someone who is going to get turned off by the complexity of GoTo then I can probably say they are going to have problems with manually locating stars with any accuracy. (Edit: I will say that some
companies can still do a much better job with their GoTo interfaces.)

All that said I agree that there is a lot of value in learning manually, and some people do enjoy the process. I don’t think everyone does though.

u/feature_creep · 1 pointr/led

OP Wrote:
&gt;What is the easiest way to drive a strip of LEDs

You suggest:
&gt;Arduino. Or ESP8266.

This is BY FAR not the easiest way to drive addressable LEDs. There are many, many off-the-shelf LED controllers that are extremely cheap, extremely simple to set up and operate, and provide numerous standard animated patterns - nothing too exciting, but very very easy.

And if /u/hoti0101 were capable enough of getting Arduino or ESP8266 to work then they likely wouldn't be asking this question here.

OP, here's the easiest way:

To power it:

Just make sure you use 12v strips with that setup, the battery pack puts out 12v.

u/diredesire · 1 pointr/ValveIndex

Just note that you'd still need to have the trident in that case, which means connecting a wallwart and the USB-A. The VL adapter makes the entire setup super clean and simple. The price comparison isn't a no-brainer IMO, a TBT3--&gt;DP adapter is anywhere from ~$15-20 on Amazon, first party VL @$40. The first party would be nicer to use, and futureproof.

I think it'd be a no-brainer to buy the VL adapter if you EVER decided to move the full setup around, but I assume most users will rarely (if ever) do that. An example would be if you wanted to bring VR around for parties, work events, etc. The VL adapter is a super no brainer in that case because you'd need an additional AC outlet, and three will already be taken up (minimum) for the 2 basestations and the laptop itself.

Thinking about this even more, you could theoretically battery power the basestations with something like this:;amp;qid=1557686834&amp;amp;s=gateway&amp;amp;sr=8-4

Then you'd only need one AC outlet for the entire setup with the VL adapter.

Yeah, all said and done, I'd think that the real beauty of the VL adapter wouldn't be fully appreciated except by like 1-2% of users. Having a really simple to deploy really high end setup would be super cool, but then inside-out starts making a lot more sense in that case...

u/Gumlog · 1 pointr/kayakfishing

FYI - here's a 6AH 12VDC lithium ion pack for $30-$33 depending on if you also want it to serve double duty as a USB powerpack. or

If really concerned about water, put it in a drybag or drybox you put a cord through a grommet and sealed.

u/BagelEaterMan · 1 pointr/bicycling

Used this and only needed ~120 LED's to cover my bike

What would you recommend? Already went through two of these and they barely lasted 3 months before dying.

Just needs the correct male plug.

u/colacadstink · 1 pointr/cosplay

Another option is remote vision.

Video glasses
Tiny camera
Battery pack to power the tiny camera

Mount the tiny camera somewhere reasonable (probably in the middle of his mouth, so the black blends in), and wire it up to the glasses. Your vision won't be amazing (think 480p YouTube video), but you also won't have any mesh problems.

u/VilmosMachina · 1 pointr/Vive

I bought these and connect them to the lighthouses to run on battery only. The included cable plugs in directly. Talentcell Rechargeable 6000mAh Li-Ion Battery Pack For LED Strip And CCTV Camera,12V DC Portable Lithium Ion Battery Bank With Charger,Black;amp;psc=1

u/happytobehereatall · 1 pointr/FitnessRepairParts

Buy this and start with the lowest setting, just dialing it up until it kicks on. if it works, but cuts out during use, just dial it to the next setting. It will probably be 9 or 12 volts, possibly 16.

ZOZO 12W 3V 4.5V 5V 6V 7.5V 9V 12V Regulated Multi Voltage Switching Replacement Power Universal AC Adapter for Household Electronics Routers Speakers CCTV Cameras Smart Phone USB Charging Devices

u/Morton_Fizzback · 1 pointr/consolerepair

The PAL SNES power supply actually outputs AC and not DC. However, the console will still accept DC inout, since the AC is being converted internally anyway.
You need it to be 9V, and at least 1.3A (according to spec, it might be less). Your first link doesn't have enough amps, and the second one doesn't seem to have the information. The polarity doesn't matter since it's expects AC anyway.
The tip needs to fit in the plug, so you might want to get a universal power supply to be sure. I quick search led me to this one (which is 12W, which means that at 9V it is: 12/9=1.33A):;amp;qid=1468583528&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=9v+power+supply+universal
(there might be other ones on amazon that are cheaper, I just sorted by relevance.)
And it seems that tip1 will fit. (outer diameter 5.5mm inner diameter 2.5mm). (you might want to make sure this is correct).
If you have other consoles at home, it is also possible that you can use one of their supplies, though I don't think the NES barrel will fit, and it's a little low on amps, so it might get too hot and die.
I've just seen that the power supply I've found doesn't have the option to choose polarity. It doesn't matter in your case, but it's pretty sucky if you wanna use it for other stuff.

u/Jim314 · 1 pointr/arduino

Would having one of these for each string be enough? then a separate power for the board?

u/ushutuppicard · 1 pointr/diyelectronics

actually, what i think i might do is get this:;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1540834898&amp;amp;sr=1-3&amp;amp;keywords=6v+dc+power+adapter

which will allow me to use the adapter/spacers in different items that would have more/less aa batteries.

u/calley479 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

You could get a universal power adapter like this.

Most electronic stores should have some version of this with different sizes of interchangeable barrel plugs.

u/spdgoat · 1 pointr/Guitar

It definitely matters which side is positive or negative. If the plus is attached to the dot in the middle of the circle, it's center-positive. If the minus is attached to the dot in the middle, it's center-negative. If you hook it up to the wrong supply, it can damage the equipment (think putting the gas in your car's tailpipe instead of the tank filler).

You can buy replacement supplies that come with multiple tips. Just make sure you get one with enough amperage/wattage to power the amp. Near where the center positive/negative diagram it should say something like 9VDC 1200ma or 9VDC 3.1w. That means you need a supply that puts out 1200 milliamps, or 3.1 watts.

A universal supply looks like this:;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1482438995&amp;amp;sr=1-2&amp;amp;keywords=universal+dc+power+supply

u/xtelosx · 1 pointr/gadgets

Having a few different version of these around you don't need to worry about splicing. They come in handy.

u/Heffeweizen · 1 pointr/escaperooms

Here's a simple idea that's electrical rather than mechanical...

Buy this electromagnetic lock and this power supply and this remote controlled outlet.

The bare wires of the lock easily click into the green plug of the power supply. Then you plug that into the remote controlled outlet.

The two metal parts of the lock magnetize together when electricity is present, and come apart when there's no electricity. The remote toggles electricity on/off.

So you build a box or use an existing door, and mount the two metal parts of the lock to it to secure it.

Players find the remote elsewhere in your game. Then upon clicking the remote they unlock the electromagnetic lock. For greater effect, install a spring in the box so that the box lid flies open upon clicking the remote!

u/Mike1304 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

So if I order two of these they will work?

u/oerkel47 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

There are lot of 12V psu with those 5mm plugs on amazon.
Yours was capable of 300mA. It's no problem if you get a new one that is capable of higher output current.

If the end that goes into the fountain is the same type of plug but male, you can just get one that has an implemented cable with male output plug. Example. Just be sure about the right plug dimensions, like /u/Pocok5 said.

edit: Your psu says 12V AC. That's odd. The one I linked is DC, so nevermind. This one would be an example for 12V AC.

u/9737372876 · 1 pointr/BurningMan

We've historically used computer fans, which obviously don't plug into an outlet, but a simple DC adapter (like this one on Amazon or pick one up at basically any electronics store or like look around your house your old router or whatever likely used one) will fix that. You cited time concerns in not wanting to use an inverter, but honestly this shouldn't add more than, say, 5 minutes, especially if you're already making a trip to the store/waiting on shipping from the internet for the fan.

EDIT: Just to clairify, pretty much any adapter that says "Output: 12 V DC" on the back will work (assuming you have a 12V fan, which most seem to be)

u/huemonkey · 1 pointr/ElectricalEngineering

I'd say DC, don't risk using AC. Here's my thought process:

I can't see a rectifying bridge. That type of connector is usually used with DC. It does't have a transformer, so, if it was the case, it would be referring to 12Vrms AC, which is not very common to run by. I think it wants you to use an AC/DC 12v converter.

Use this

Edit: Don't forget to check if it provides enough power (Watts), though.

u/legoboy0109 · 1 pointr/Modding

If you're still looking. I'd recommend using a simple 12V DC power adapter like this, and putting the female port it comes with on the back of the console, then you can wire 12V LEDs and fans to this instead of trying to use the built-in power supply. it's only 24W, so I'm not sure how much you could do with this one, but you can probably find something with more power.

EDIT: I realized fans and LEDs don't use very much power, so that should be fine. Adding in some small 80mm or 60mm fans to the CPU and GPU heatsinks and wiring LEDs to this should be fine. I would even wire switches for the fans and LEDs separately so I could turn them on and off if I wanted.

u/creed_bratton_ · 1 pointr/arduino

To power the lights you can just use a 12v power supply like this.

And if you want to use an arduino to turn it off and on, you can just use a simple relay like this

Personally I think this solution is a little simpler and less confusing than messing with a mosfet etc... But the other solutions that people have mentioned in this thread will work too.

u/SaxRussell · 1 pointr/BDSMcommunity

My maglock runs off 12 or 24v so I just got a 12v transformer. Something like this:;amp;qid=1501804560&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=12v+transformer

You have to find out what kind of power your mag lock needs. It's probably listed on the maglock somewhere.

u/brent20 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

&gt; You can use any 12V power supply 700mAh or above, the screen will just draw what it requires.

This is correct, I've used these power supplies for LED and other 12v projects. This should power it fine.

u/cows2computers · 1 pointr/smoking

Based off Inkbird ITC-106RL


Controller: Inkbird ITC-106RL
This is 12v so it is easy to use with cheap computer fans and has a built in relay to make for less wiring. Can also be ran off of a battery. Downside of the built in relay is the life span is a little lower, but it is cheap enough and easy enough to replace that I will take the trade off.

Power Supply: 12v. Can be a “wall wort” converter or hooked up to any 12v battery. I used an old power adaptor from an external power supply. Just make sure it is 12v output with at least 1 amp.

Fan: At least 5 CFM needs to get to the drum, but keep in mind a lot will be lost going down a valve/pipe/elbow. With this controller it will run the fan as need to maintain the temp, so larger will be fine, but too large can cause problems. I did 80mm computer case fan (with LEDs) with a 3” to 1.5” ABS adaptor hacked up get it funneled into my box. I did this because I wanted the look of a big LED fan and a 80mm LED fan was cheap. I think a lot of the 32 CFM of the fan I used is being wasted with my setup with the funnel and riser pipe, and I am OK with that as I love the look. My 32 CFM fan is running about 30% of the time to maintain temp. I want to be able to glance from the house and see it light up. If you are just going for ease of build I would do 2 40mm fans screwed into the cover of the box. Then you don’t need to make the funnel/adaptor which was hard to make.



Temp Sensor: Any “K Type” sensor will do. The controller supports a ton of different types, but a K type is the easiest. I picked this one for the length of the sensor and the spring wire guard for having it on the side of the drum.

This one looks great if you want to be able to remove it quickly.

K Type Adjustable Compression Spring Bayonet Sensor Thermocouple 5M

I plan on adding a clip using it on the grate as the sidewall is running about 50 degrees hotter than the air around the meat on the top grate. I think I wouldn't make this one my first choice if you going to have it on the grate because of the spring guard and size.

Case: 2" Type LB PVC Conduit Body with a pvc plumbing reducer on the bottom to get down to 3/4” pipe thread that connects to my valve (kept so I can shut it down after cooking) and a solid plug on the back drilled out to allow for a wire connector. I didn't glue either of the plugs in so I could take it off the smoker easily and for future upgrades. The holes in the face of the case were cut with a hole saw and jigsaw.  

Wiring: Image from

The ITC-106RL has the same wiring.

I didn’t add the switches as I am just plugging it in or unplugging it. I think I will add a switch for the fan in the future.

I had to flip my probe wiring.

You may need to use a multimeter to figure out which wire is hot vs common coming from the power adaptor. Set your meter to 12v and touch the probes to the wires from the adaptor. If you get POSITIVE number close to twelve your positive/red probe is on the positive/”red” wire. If you get a NEGATIVE number on the multimeter you have them switched. I tested the adaptor on the fan first. My fan would not spin/light up with the wires switched.

My final wiring (not in the case):

Controller Settings:

The manual for the ITC-106 is bad. Luckily the IPC-16 is the same system and the manual is much better.


Press SET button for 3 seconds to enter into the main menu, there are Input Parameters, Output Parameters, Alarm Parameters, PID Parameters and Unit Parameters can be selected. Then press shift button to enter into the submenu if need to change the settings.

Here is what I changed to get it working. Everything else is left on the factory settings.

IP -&gt; SC (Sensor Calibration) AS NEEDED. Once you have it running turn it on and put the sensor in the some boiling water. Use this setting to adjust as needed, keeping in mind water boils at different temps depending your elevation. I had to do a + 3.

PID -&gt; CTL (Control Period) to 15 seconds. Basically, the system will check the temp every 15 seconds and then run the fan for the amount it guesses it will need to keep the temp correct. Lower time is more accurate temp, but on/off cycles for the relay, and it is only rated for 100,000 cycles. I think I will test this at 30 seconds and 60 seconds in the future. 15 worked well and had about a 1-2 degree swing. I am ok with more of swing if it means less wear and tear on the built in relay.

UNITS TO F if think in those terms.

In the future I will play with the autotune/self-tuning function and will add an update for that if I can figure it out and get noticeably better results.

You are done. Light your smoker, power up the controller and set your temp (you can hold the up and down buttons or use the select button and move the decimal point to change by 100s, 10s or 1s). Bottom number is your set point, top is the current temp.

I leave my 2nd valve open till 200 degrees to help the drum get to temp faster, then I closed it and let the controller do the rest, but you can start with just the fan open and walk away if you want. Exhaust open all the way. It ended up running the fan about 5 seconds on, 10 seconds off to maintain 225 degrees.

u/AddictedToComedy · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Slightly different form-factor, but you could always get a setup like this for less than half the cost:

LED Flexible Light Strip - $8 Prime

Power supply - $8 Prime

I'm betting someone will come along and tell me there are even cheaper options than the one I linked, especially going through a Chinese site :D

u/Absentee23 · 0 pointsr/microgrowery

Definitely stick with PC fans. I'd go with 120mm because the larger fan moves more air while moving slower, so it can stay quieter but still cool your box.

I bought this pack of 4 on amazon, they're almost silent, but you will need 2 or more to cool the cfls. I use 2 of these in my veg cabinet, with some duct on the back of them to lightproof it, to cool 3-4 cfls at the moment, but I don't have to worry about smell from the veg cabinet.

You need to figure out what you are going to do if smell will be a problem. If you need zero smell, then you need to think about a DIY carbon filter and how you will move air through it (more powerful fans would be needed).

For a no-wiring-splicing-needed solution, you can get molex (one type of connector pc fans use) power adapters like this one, and use splitters and adapters, etc to power however many fans you need, or even buy a pc fan speed controller like this one and plug it right in.

note: pc fans have two different kinds of connectors typically, larger molex 4 pins (like I mentioned earlier) and some have smaller 3 pin connector. The ac adapter I linked has a 4 pin molex, and so does that fan controller for power in, but it has the 3 pin for power out to each fan that it controls, and the fans I linked also have small 3 pin connectors. Just something to keep an eye out for if you decide to get more powerful fans than I linked, for example.

To wire mine up, I grabbed a 12v AC-DC adapter (a wall-wart, like a plug for an old router, it says the voltage on the label) and cut the plug on the end off, and cut the connectors on the fans off, then it's one wire to red, one wire to black, if it doesn't work switch them. Some adapters have a white stripe on one of the two wires, that one goes to red. (although I think for most fans it would spin them backwards, arrows on the edges of the fan usually point direction of airflow). Heatshrink it all together (or just electrical tape it really securely) and plug it in.

u/jonadair · 0 pointsr/LifeProTips

I've heard repeatedly that made-in-Japan "white top" low self-discharge NiMH batteries with other brands like Duracell are rebranded Eneloops. (Versus the "black top" made-in-China ones.) Worth a look if you see any on sale.

Also a charger like the La Crosse BC-700 is a worthwhile investment if you're going to use rechargeable batteries a lot.

u/abipes13 · 0 pointsr/CarAV

Check this out on AMZN:

PAC SNI35 Adjustable 2-Channel Line Out Converter

Alright, here is the line out converter, everyone else gave it an awesome review, so I might be stupid or something.

u/aww_tucker · 0 pointsr/audiophile

You can use some of the following:;amp;psc=1

(or similar speaker level to line level converters) to adapt your speaker outputs on your receiver to line level outputs, adapting it into a pseudo preamp. They are commonly used in car audio, not so much home audio setups, but I've read that folks have auditioned home systems setup this way and the adapters supposedly did not affect the sound quality in any way. YMMV

u/JulieJulep · 0 pointsr/travel

For charging things, you need both a converter and adapter if your electronics aren't dual voltage, one for dealing with the different shapes of the outlets in Europe, and one for dealing with the different voltage. Rick Steves talks about it here. Usually they're now in one piece. I got mine at Bed Bath &amp; Beyond for pretty cheap. Here's an example. I have this, which is only a plug adapter because my electronics are marked dual voltage.

As for overhead room, I've never had trouble, especially if you aren't bringing anything bigger than a standard backpack or duffel bag. Even if it does get crowded, the flight attendants usually go around playing tetris so everyone can find space.

All flights I've been on had front door loading only, boarding by 'zones,' where 1/2/3 are first/business/priority passengers. Your zone will be marked on your ticket. Coach zones (like 3/4/5) have always boarded last. You won't be able to get on first unless you pay extra for the better front seats.

u/Bag440 · 0 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Okay then, seems I've started a shitstorm. I'll pick up a charger ASAP, but it's going to at least be a couple of days. If it bricks like you're all saying it will, I'll be sure to post something. Thanks everybody.

Hope that's sufficient, because I can't really afford much more.

u/aManPerson · 0 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

while i've never used batteries as big as his, i think this is a good charger that can handle whatever:;amp;colid=2DF7BE0I9DFDX&amp;amp;coliid=I2TIRRMN5HT0PH

u/Justinicus · 0 pointsr/Skookum

CV will drop the current to keep the voltage at your set point (4.2V). CC is also known as "bulk charging". The CV phase is essentially topping it off. It's usually about the last 20% or so of the capacity.

So basically, you need a dedicated CC/CV charger (like a hobby charger or an 18650 charger), or a variable bench power supply -- very handy to have around. Or a good stable power source, a large variety of resistors, a good, solid handle on Ohm's Law, and a lot of time on your hands. I personally like a charger like the Nitecore i4 for my LiIon batteries.

u/LocalAmazonBot · 0 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: Can be had for &amp;lt;$16

|Country|Link|Charity Links|

To help donate money to charity, please have a look at this thread.

This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

u/Ender06 · 0 pointsr/AskElectronics

Holy balls, for a buck? I wouldn't trust it...

What about some of these off of amazon? I just searched for LM2596.

u/Ravisher · 0 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

If you want something you will hold onto for more than a couple months I would go with the following:

Kayfun 3.1

Choose one that works with 18650s


28 Gauge Kenthal

These Sony 18650s
aren't the real deal, but it's so hard to come by legit ones without seeing them in person.

Also you may want to pick up some organic cotton balls at a local shop (Walgreens, Walmart, Target, etc.).

Depending on the mod you choose, this should be under $100. GG

Edit: If you are entirely new to coil building and how batteries work, I would suggest educating yourself first. There are plenty of resources on the subject.

u/Mortimer452 · 0 pointsr/HomeImprovement

USB outputs 5v, that is probably what these were designed to be used for, powered by USB.

The specs say 0.3W per led, the description says "150 pixels" and I'm guessing that means 150 LED's, so that's 45W per strip, but that seems like a LOT for USB.

You could use a 12v-&gt;5v step-down transformer to reduce the 12V voltage down to 5V but that one only handles 3 amps.

u/jakedawg69 · 0 pointsr/WindowsMR
u/piranhamahalo · 0 pointsr/Vaping101

For vendors, I'd recommend VapeWild. Been using them for over a year now and have nothing but awesome things to say about them: (they'll also send you a free sample pack of their juices if you use WELCOME10 on your first purchase)

Small and packs a punch, eh? I can't really recommend from experience (I have an ijoy Captain - while it's an awesome mod, it's pretty big), but the Aspire Speeder and Geekvape Aegis are very good



There's also the Voopoo Drag, which is a damn awesome mod, but the company is under fire for some shady business practices (nothing to do with the mod, just some folks have been protesting the company):

Now tanks, I can recommend. With it being your first setup, I'd tell you to get a Crown III by Uwell. I've had one, my friends have had one, pretty much everyone I know has had a Uwell in their lineup at some point. I don't use it anymore after switching to RDAs, but for a first tank it's damn near perfect (get some extra. 25ohm coils if you do pick it up)

Another tank I'd recommend is the Fireluke by Freemax. The tank is huge and the first coil I had in it lasted me a month while chain vaping ~70W.

Also, don't forget batteries and chargers! You can find them here on the site:

However, I'd personally recommend the Nitecore charger, which you can find on Amazon:

Well, I hope I covered everything - cheers!

u/Dasbaus · 0 pointsr/Vaping101;amp;redirect=true&amp;amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

This is the charger I ordered, and it works great. I charge my batteries in series depending on color and the days in which I use them. Would recomend this charger for you.

As for batteries, there are a number of different batteries for your device. I use a Segeli 100w and a Segeli 150w and use the same batteries;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1451693052&amp;amp;sr=1-1&amp;amp;keywords=6+18650

Here are the batteries I ordered recently, this rest of my batteries were from local B&amp;M stores, as well as small dealers.

Good luck to you, and should you want a decent website for premium juice, PM me and I will share.

u/SteezyNutss · -1 pointsr/CarAV

You'll need a line out converter. I used this LOC and haven't had any problems with it just make sure to properly ground it out. Then I used some Quick Splice/T-Taps to tap into the Rear Left Speaker (positive and negative) and Rear Right Speaker (positive and negative) at the back of the head unit. And wallah you got your RCA outputs

u/odombones94 · -1 pointsr/hardwareswap

The links are just for the amazon/ BB listings. The only reason I started there is just because of the craigslist selling mentality, you know people are going to offer lower, and I know I'll take it. I don't think I'll go for under $200 though. I got the batteries and charger for ~$40, and the dongle for ~$15.
Raw links:
BT Adapter:

u/mel5156 · -2 pointsr/onebag
u/LNMagic · -2 pointsr/buildapc

The cheapest thing to create on your computer is by far the most expensive to restore. If your hard drive fails, professionals can recover data, but that typically starts at about $700.

You need redundancy. That means a minimum of 2 hard drives (RAID 1).

Be aware that if you want to do the same thing to a future Blu Ray collection, it can add up really fast. I've started ripping HD DVD and Blu Ray movies to my server about 9 months ago after a drive failed on me, and I've already filled up nearly 2TB in videos.

Finally, I really recommend that if you plan on leaving your server on 24/7, you do everything you can to reduce its idle power consumption. If you pay 11.4c/kW*hr, then each watt your computer consumes costs you $1 per year. It wasn't that long ago that a common desktop could take up 150W idle, but my home server uses a mere 23W. You can cut out about 20W of overhead by using a picoPSU and DC power adapter. If 72W isn't enough, you can also go for a more expensive 192W model that should be able to handle anything you'll use with the server.

Building for low power consumption on a server will often save you $40-100 per year in electricity bills.

u/Muffin860 · -3 pointsr/ecigclassifieds

Nitecore IntelliCharger i4 Battery Charger - 2nd Generation by Nitecore

17 and change shipped free for prime members.