Best bearings according to redditors
We found 179 Reddit comments discussing the best bearings. We ranked the 111 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 179 Reddit comments discussing the best bearings. We ranked the 111 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Honestly I should just buy a 20 pack of these and then print a frame that holds them all in a circle so the hose can have a perfectly smooth track to go through
https://www.amazon.com/Inch-Chrome-Steel-Bearing-Ball/dp/B0074VCP8S/ref=pd_day0_328_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0074VCP8S&pd_rd_r=SYPQGB4E4FVHM2Y9FQQ2&pd_rd_w=3R4hu&pd_rd_wg=lVuyh&psc=1&refRID=SYPQGB4E4FVHM2Y9FQQ2
I bought everything at Home Depot just walking through. Plus the pillow block bearing off Amazon so from memory
2 Pieces- UCP204-12, 3/4 inch Pillow Block Bearing Solid Base,Self-Alignment, Brand NEW https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IWGLAM0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_H-rRAbGRZKA17
2-8 foot 2x4’s cut in half so 4 4’ pieces
2- 2’x4’ 3/4inch plywood
Couple 2x4 scrap’s to mount the bearings too (about 6”)
Piping is all 3/4 inch, 24”, 2-10”, 2 T joints
1 10 inch solid lag screw
And some JB Weld to secure the lag inside the top T joint.
It'll rotate but not smoothly. I'd recommend you use turntable hardware instead. Read all the comments on the page to get a better understanding.
Also, remember that if your room is 4x4, a 4x4 square won't rotate in it, you'd have to make it circular or a smaller square.
I found ceramic ones that you could buy in quantity of one.. heres the link
https://www.amazon.com/CERAMIC-BALL-SI3N4-GRADE5-EACH/dp/B00E8LV8U8
Most hardware stores sell bearings in the specialty hardware section. Or something like this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B018B7D05K
2 [Neodymium Cup Magnets] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAEF59W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wrZ6ybYNF05FF) glued together (Note the magnets will repell slightly because they're backwards, I held them together while they dried with a potato bag clip)
And a [3/4" Diameter Steel Ball Bearing] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008L3V098/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_isZ6ybP374PVF)
The glue I used was Gorilla glue, the one that dries white and expands some. It worked really really well. I could scrape it off with my knife if there was too much but it's also incredibly strong. I recommend this over soldering because the ball needs a tiny bit of space as a track to roll around and because the glue expanded it provided a track to go around. Otherwise solder it if you have a mini washer to use as a spacer.
I've also dropped it on hard floor a few times and no marks or any signs of damage.
The only real difference from this an the Orbiter is that the centers are incredibly attractive unlike the Orbiter, they are also not as concave but the ball will still fit into the divot. But because of the high attraction it won't roll around in that divot but you can still run your thumb around the stationary ball which feels nice. There is also a hole in the center of this so I can expand on this toy too :)
Surprisingly cheap. Here is a grab bag of 500 bearings of assorted sizes between 1/8 and 1/4" for $8.
> A 1/4" bearing from a "bike specific" company is the exact same thing as a 1/4" bearing from any other company
As long as they're not a terrible grade... Grade 25 is typical for bike use these days and they're cheap enough not to bother with something like a grade 300. There are still grade 300's being sold by bike companies, but like you said, they're more expensive (even though they're lower quality).
It's easier than that, even:
Just buy an assortment of bearings. They're cheap. Then when you take it apart, you will definitely have the right size, just match the old ones to the new ones... Which will be 1/4", since this is an 80's Japanese bottom bracket and will be totally standard. ;)
(edit: And then you'll have bearings for your hubs and headset too!)
I used this.
One Square 3" Inch Lazy Susan Turntable Bearing - 5/16" Thick & 200 LB Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZSQSWTM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dziuDbB1ZASZ4
I don't know if it's the correct name, but it's a conveyor roller. Usually go on "conveyor" lines so boxes and things can roll along it in more than one direction.
https://www.amazon.com/48x32mm-Flange-Conveyor-Bearings-Transfer/dp/B00XP5H5S2
You should definitely replace any missing ball bearings, they are pretty cheap and will make the bearings smoother than they would be with some missing. Here are some bearings i got in the past that are good, but you can always just get the individual sizes you need instead.
Already a lot of great answers by clever people here! I can add a bit on motors and electricals, but I also want to say that you're probably underestimating how big a 3' arm is. Imagine that on your desk- it takes up half a table! Sizing the motors for static torque alone doesn't work well, as the inertia at the end effector increases with length^2 which is proportional to dynamic torque, speed, and vibration. Larger limb sections are also heavier and more complicated to make, which makes them even more heavy. Sizing down a little bit will make the arm dramatically more stable and performant.
> Belts or Gears for the actuators?
For 3 lb @ 35" you're looking at a minimum torque of 12.2 N-m at the shoulder. That will require reduction. Belts are far cheaper than gears, especially if you have a 3d printer- plastic pullys work great, although they need to be well glued to metal shafts (NB that a shaft key will greatly reduce strength and durability). Red loctite is great for that. A single belt reduction can do 5x, although you can do 10x+ with idlers. Mcmaster is a good place for belts, but amazon has a small selection that can be cheaper.
Note that belts can be very rigid: highly tensioned, fiber reinforced belts at moderate torque (otherwise the teeth start pulling out) are actually stiffer than most gears, which have a grease film and a gap between teeth that has a slight initial give/backlash. The reason you switch from belts to gears is because you need to tension the belts more tightly for higher torque. Once the tension becomes hard on the bearings and gearbox frame, you switch to gears. Basically you want to avoid gears if at all possible; they're expensive, hard to find, and hard to mount without metal backplates and the ability to cut bearing mounts. SDP/SI is a good place to get gears.
> Once I know how much torque I need, how do I know which type of motor is best for me? Stepper, Servo, Brushless?
Depends how much you want to spend. Hobby servos won't work for a 35" arm, even the $350 dynamixels. You also don't want to be designing your own brushless drivers, and the range of robotics controllers for bldc is limited. You are basically stuck between NEMA 23 and odrive.
NEMA 23 is the cheap choice- you can get very big NEMA 23s on amazon, hook them up to a single-stage 5x reduction, and have gobs of torque and good control. You can even get NEMA 34 for affordable prices. The drivers are stupidly cheap- for <$70 all-in you can have an arduino-controlled joint with 15 N-m of torque and top out solidly over 500 rpm. Add a couple heat sinks and you can increase that a lot- 500+ watts no problem, or 7 watts per dollar.
Downsides are you don't get any regen (not so important on an arm), low/no backdriveability (although this can be nice since the robot usually holds position when it turns off), very loud operation, low efficiency, and pretty low acceleration. Brushless motors require higher reduction and closed loop control, but are quiet, efficient, and can be used to build very responsive + high regen robots. Driving them is the weak link: the 56 V odrive dual driver cost a whopping $150. However for $70-80 per motor you get 40-90 amps continuous for 2 to 5 kilowatts, WITH regen and accuracy to >512 steps. That can be over 20 watts per dollar for the motor, reduction, sensors and driver. The limiting factor is even finding motors that can handle that power.
If your budget is <$500, go for steppers. If it's >$800, I'd go for brushless. You'll get an immense amount of speed and power, both of which are very good for an arm with a 3' reach. Note that 3' is a very large arm- the weight of the arm itself will be very limiting if you don't used fairly sophisticated techniques. 8"-12" sections are a hassle to 3d print. Rotational inertia increases with reach^2 so you'll need quadratically more power for the same acceleration (and to fight wobble). A 26" arm will require only half the power.
> Do I start my design from the end effector or do I start at the base?
I'd start at the end effector- that will set your payload weight and the torque required at the next joint, and so on back to the shoulder. Doing it the other way requires a lot more iteration.
The one thing I always say on posts like this is to learn how to use bearings. Bearings are the #1 cause of wobble in poorly designed arms, and the easiest way to tell if the designer had any clue what they were doing. Use 608 bearings for everything you can. They're incredibly cheap and precise because they're used in skateboards- 20 to 50 cents each. They're deep groove bearings, which are excellent for machinery, and can take 300 lbs radial and 150 lbs axial static load and 2-3x that for dynamic load. They're easily a 50x better value than any other types of bearings. If you want other bearings (maybe very large thin section) go to onlinebearingstore, despite having a 2000s era website/name they're really great. Unrelated, theoringstore is also really great.
The most important thing to know about bearings is that they always, always need a preload. The bearing will not meet specs if it does not have some axial force. It will have a very noticeable play and will wear out quickly. This is why you always use bearings in pairs- not because they can't take it, but because you can't preload a single bearing. You need two bearings to be pressed together. I like disc springs for this, but shims and even just bolts also work well for providing the axial force. You can usually just set your preload by feel (so make it possible to bolt down one bearing closer to the other), but if you want to do the math it's good to aim for an axial force of 50% of the maximum radial force you expect. That can come from static load, or torque from twisting the bearing.
I've settled on these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007B2A84S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
1 inch stainless steel balls, they are surprisingly heavy for how small they are, which is great because I can add as many as I need to counteract floating without being bulky
one on either side of a bag will weigh down even the most air filled bag
I'll just this here, you'll be finding it helpful: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BBICBK/
Under 15? The best thing you can buy hands down is this:
https://amzn.com/B002BBQDW0
That was an easy question ;)
Here's a pic of it. The Tower
It stands a little over 6ft tall. It's 5 tabletops, and 4 sets of legs, with the 5th top acting as the base. Each table is 21.5 inches square and the tops of 2in tall and the legs 15.5. It sits on top of this, so it can rotate. The joining plates come from Home Depot. Here's a pic.
I originally joined them with flimsy screws and plastic joiners that came from Ikea's free spare parts areas, but I didn't trust them once the tower would be fully loaded. I'm not much of a craftsman, but I'm happy with it. All told it cost me about $45. ($5 per table, + Joining plates/screws + Lazy Susan)
I mostly use it to hold games that get played a lot, so it's not a shot of my whole collection.
Sorry, it's 3/4 inch...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008L3V098/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I can move it myself and I am in no way in the running for a strong man competition. While a tad heavy, it's more awkward getting it through doors and around corners.
Parts List:
Yoga balls:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LQ4PXFA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
pillow bearings:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IWGLAM0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
3/4 inch steek rod:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0069AB2NO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Rail Clamping Guides:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07426SVYM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Straps to anchor the trainer: (Way to long) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PL4H0O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Anycubic All Metal Right Hand MK8 Extruder Aluminum Frame Block DIY Kit for Reprap i3 3D Printer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196B285I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yI-vyb8AGEEGK
You should also get these: uxcell® 5 Pcs Silver Tone 10mm x 4mm x 4mm Sealed Premium Flanged Ball Bearing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G9W20VU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lJ-vybPV8A1NM
You need the bearings instead of the one in the above kit if you keep the original drive gear on the machine. The new kit has a new feed gear, but it will change how much is fed, requiring you to recalibrate your printer.
Sure thing!
Magnet:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I46V06A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_DL-OCbDDQ353J
Weight:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0074VCP8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_NO-OCbSHCR82S
O-Rings:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000DZDQU8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_1P-OCb0J9BCCQ
From amazon
Or $9.95 with free shipping on Amazon.
I used
1.26" Neodymium Cup Magnets (qty 2) from Amazon
3/4" Diameter Steel Ball Bearing (qty 1) from Amazon but only had a 6 pack
You can get an assortment of bearings on amazon. I got these when i serviced my bike: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018B7D05K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yeah, regular 608s. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C6FL8TW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just went to Amazon.
I got these various bits and bobs:
608 Bearings (about 50 cents a peice)
M2 screws + nuts
M3 Screws + nuts
Got those in, saw that they were philips
Ordered some M2+3 screws + nuts that were hex
Washers came with most of those sets
Some springs, compression and otherwise
Steel ball bearings (I actually don't know what I'm going to do with this)
Nylon Lock Nut set
Might run ya 30-40 bucks but you got a few ways to put things together.
Edit: Some links to get you started
M2 Screws
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J7NM9JA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 - $15
M3 Screws
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J7IUBG8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 - $15
608 Bearings
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BBICBK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 - $6
Nylon nuts
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K7M37G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 - $10
Springs
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K7M36W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 - - $8
OnDaq,
This one from Amazon seems like a pretty good deal.
https://www.amazon.com/VXB-Ceramic-Miniature-Bearing-8x22x7/dp/B01JKBUR1Q
It's a full ZrO2 bearing. There are two types of ceramic bearings (Si3N4 Silicon Nitride, and the ZrO2 Zirconium Oxide). Then you have full or hybrid. A full means that all components of the bearing are made from those elements. The hybrids will usually have the ceramic balls and the rings/races are made from some other material. Just make sure the size matches to the existing bearing in your spinner if you're buying a replacement online.
Regards,
Nate
Can't say for sure without knowing what size/specs, it will vary by brand as well, but this one I picked at random on Amazon says it's 0.6 ounces most will be around this.
For less messy amazon links you can extract the part after "/dp/" in
https://www.amazon.com/Ceramic-Bearing-8x22x7-Bearings-VXB/dp/B002BBQDW0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484208187&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=vxb+ceramic
and make it:
https://amzn.com/B002BBQDW0
BEEP BOP
Plz send any recommendations via PM
ohhh okay, I was thinking a stationary stand, with a television that could rotate 180 degrees to face either way
what you're talking about would be referred to as a "turntable". You might just have to make it yourself by driving an anchoring piece into the floor, then adding small casters to the corners if need be.
you would want a bearing swivel plate to mount to the floor, base it with wood to the height you need, and then mount your table.
something like this will even hold 1000 pounds and they're used in cabinet making. Which is basically what you are doing.
If you use this idler instead of the included one you don't have to remove the feed gear.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G9W20VU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BLjiybTXV7JFZ
I was able to complete the install in < 10 min
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D8RDV1L/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_c5JUCbEXF4066
Keep in mind, I can only say they helped some. I think it's still possible to do better.
Aside from the aforementioned glass plate, there are several easy and useful mods. There's many threads going over this actually. Search around.
Get this and make some mods using the bearings. I made the Filament Guide along with a snap-in filament guide for closer to the spool. Both highly recommended.
Also using the bearings, I made a Spool Holder. Not crucial, but might save wear on extruder mechanism.
Get This or something like it and at least install the couplers instead of stock ones. I haven't replaced the tube itself yet. It requires fairly precise cutting but you can get PTFE tube cutting guides and cutters printed from thingiverse.
Get This and install it before glass bed or anything else, except for maybe a bed handle (which you can print from thingiverse. Handle isn't crucial but will help.
I haven't yet but will get:
Buy Spare Nozzles, including a hardened steel one if you want to do any amount of printing with wood-grain, metal or glow-in-the-dark material.
I use these
No, the lowest I see anywhere is a pack of two for bones red but for 1 dollar more (5.50 if you divide 9 by 2) you can get a single all ceramic bearing
I took off my sheilds with a knife. But that is because I bought ones with non-removable shields. Here is a video which apparently shows how to remove the shield
> 6804-2RS Sealed Bearing 20x32x7mm (one piece)
http://www.amazon.com/6804-2RS-Sealed-Bearing-20x32x7-Bearings/dp/B002BBGF64
Thanks! The bearing is a full ceramic one I got on Amazon. The design is not mine. It is from Thingiverse, called the Cog Triple Spinner Reddit formatting apparently doesn't agree with mobile sharing links. I fixed it though.
Slightly jerky movement is ok, as long as the final positioning is correct and increments slowly. Say I take 1 full step per photo, and a photo every 10 minutes. With .067deg/step motor+gearbox, it would go about 10 degrees per day total, which is probably fine since it's roughly 300 degrees per month, so if it happened to be a 3 month video, it would go about 2.5 full rotations.
For stiction, you are referring to the stiction of the interface between whatever is being rotated and the base? I have used a stepper before, but it moved much faster and probably had more torque as a result, and used this 'lazy susan'-type turntable device. Hopefully that would be sufficient for this project, and there wouldn't be any step 'skipping'.
(edit: oh unless you mean internal stiction of the gearbox, in which case... I don't know what to do about that.)
I could sync the shutter and movement, but the movement would take little time and the photo is quick (say 1/60 second), so it would be unlikely that the two would trigger simultaneously, although it would be a possibility.
tl;dr for your final question:
Photos every 10 or 20 minutes, rotation on the order of 1-2 rotations a month, leaving some room to fine-tune the rotation rate.
Are you sure? Most BB bearings are about 1/4 in.
In any case, amazon sells them for cheap
Ex: https://www.amazon.ca/BC-Precision-BCBIKE5-500-Piece-Assorted/dp/B018B7D05K/
The rail systems are over $50, typically.
Get some decent bearings - I used these @ $10 for 30 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BBD6X4
For those bearings a 5/16" steel rod (about $2/ft, purchased at Lowe's) fits in nicely. Mount two of those bearings on the rod and sandwich it between two pieces of wood (or steel if you desire) and it'll ride atop a 3/4" wood rail smooth as butter. Put as many of these as you want along the top of your barn door and for about 1/10th of the cost you have the same thing.
I need to finish up and post photos of the system I did, it's just too expensive to buy a few pieces of metal.
Got a 35$ Amazon gift card from work. There are so many spinners on Amazon I don't know what to get. Suggestions? I was thinking of getting an inexpensive one then replace with a fully ceramic bearing. Thoughts? This is the combination I was thinking (comes to just under 35$)
Spinner
Bearing
This is what I use (for the middle bearing):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JKBUR1Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
(for the outside bearings)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BBD6X4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I timed my spin to 2mins 20 seconds. Not too bad
Here you go, it was for 14$ but still, cheap. link
This is what I use.
http://www.amazon.com/Capacity-Bearing-Turntable-Bearings-VXB/dp/B0045DV04I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408495735&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=12+lazy+susan+bearing
Figured I'd share the flanged bearing setup I'm running on my marcmt88 mounts.
http://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/custom-made-cnc-motor-mounts-available-for-sale/32342
Parts list (For one idler, in order of layout):
Note: I'm running Abec11 107mm wheels, I did have to create a bevel with a rasp on the inside of the wheel to clear the flange.
dont think you really need ceramics but amazon sells them too. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0197SR8R8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
That's why I suggested clear marbles, to minimize the impurities, but clear leaded glass crystal is a thing. OP could also pick up some large food grade stainless steel or ceramic ball bearings, but I didn't suggest that originally because of the expense.
https://www.amazon.com/Inch-Stainless-Steel-Bearing-Balls/dp/B007B2A84S
https://www.google.com/search?q="food+grade"+large+"stainless"+steel+ceramic+"loose"+"ball"+bearing
But ultimately you could play the "possible unsafe impurities" game with just about any material unless you personally have it tested.
Maker Beam starter kit - $112.50 - https://www.amazon.com/MakerBeam-Regular-anodized-including-brackets/dp/B00G3J6GDM
Riuxin Pro knife sharpener kit - $29.95 - https://www.amazon.com/Sharpener-Professional-Sharpening-Fix-angle-III/dp/B015XKSNS2
3" Lazy Susan bearing - $5.95 - https://www.amazon.com/Square-Inch-Susan-Turntable-Bearing/dp/B00ZSQSWTM
-optional-
empty blanks for jig (these are meant to be used as a base for stones, but I just used a glass plate and various grits to flatten them to attach my psa lapping film to) - $28.50/pack of 10 - https://www.amazon.com/Gritomatic-Empty-Blank-for-Stone/dp/B01N0ZINXE
lapping film (I bought 1 sheet of every grit this vendor offers, but I've seen better prices elsewhere) - $5/sheet - https://www.amazon.com/Micron-Lapping-Microfinishing-Aluminum-266Xx1/dp/B071R3S6GS
You can use something like this. Just verify width and bore size
https://www.amazon.com/Sunhokey-Aluminum-Toothless-Timing-Printer/dp/B078GPKRP1/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?keywords=gt2+5mm+bore&amp;qid=1573616003&amp;sr=8-17
You can use something like this. I would use a gear motor with a friction drive against the perimeter of the turntable, it's the simplest. One thing though: unless you make very sure the turntable is absolutely level, it may slip or move unexpectedly if the person shifts weight.
I would buy something like this assortment, pick the one that's the right size, put some grease on 'em, and get on with life. The extras will be useful for something, eventually.
edit: typically, you fill the race up with bearings, and then remove one. So if it takes 10 to fill the race with balls, use 9.
25pcs 2.5mm Si3N4 Silicon Nitride Ceramic Bearing Balls G5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D8RDV1L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TNCRDbXRC6FQ6
Is that 3rd bearing this bearing? How long does it spin? I was thinking of getting one but I didn't know how long it spins.
As far as the bearing goes, I've seen them from $10 (vxb via amazon) all the to the $100s. I personally haven't bought any full ceramic ones yet, but I'm waiting on some of the spinners I ordered to arrive so I might be looking to replace them if I'm not content with the ones that come in the unit.
Dang, sadly those aren't on Amazon nor on ebay US. I'm gonna try out this for the PS: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B887CXG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
These for the hot end and case: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RJGXHPY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?smid=A1QECY8JRTZPBV&amp;psc=1
Trying these (and some similar ones) to replace the stock, trying to keep the belt more centered: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078GPKRP1/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A144J8BE3R51KJ&amp;psc=1
Does anyone know if these are an upgrade? I don't have any issues with the wheels now, except they gather a ton of dust.
https://www.amazon.com/Creality-3D-Printer-Polycarbonate-Plastic/dp/B07R3ZRDRF/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=vslot+wheel&amp;qid=1569173000&amp;sr=8-3
Look they come in black too
Sunhokey 2pcs GT2 5mm Bore Black Aluminum Toothless Timing Belt Idler Pulley for 3D Printer 6mm Width Timing Belt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078GPKRP1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5DU4CbBFZRBT5
0.5mm ball bearing worked. The link below is for 1 ball bearing.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E8LV8U8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It's pretty easy to make your own "kit" if you have the BOM and access to Amazon or a site like it. I'm biased because I've always gotten good service from them. Some people have said that I'm biased because they pay me, but I really do try not to recommend places of business that I don't frequent myself.
Anyhow, here are the x upgrade and the y upgrade that I was looking at when I went searching.
Both use 608 bearings and a 10 pack should take care of it and give you several spares for further upgrades or replacements in the future. (want a spool coaster?)
Next you need the GT2 belt and 2 pulleys. Done.
The BOM doesn't say it, but you might need some m3 screws
Edit: Full disclosure: Amazon pays me something like 4% on items that aren't sold by third parties. If everything on this list qualifies and you buy it all I expect to make about a dollar.
I am getting new ones after 500 miles because 1 broke, makes really loud rattling noice
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BBGF64/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Amazon, we got a pack of 30 for ~$12
I think it was these: 30 Bearing 608ZZ 8x22x7 Shielded Greased Miniature Ball Bearings https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BBD6X4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OykNybTZ859CZ
A friend of mine uses a large stainless ball bearings as whiskey stones.
A center bearing design will be more difficult than a perimeter bearing design. Wood as a rolling surface will create problems as the wood grains crush, creating little ripples for the bearings to roll over. If you can get a metal plate, say 3/16" thick, then you can bolt flange roller bearings like this: https://www.amazon.com/48x32mm-Flange-Conveyor-Bearings-Transfer/dp/B00XP5H5S2 to the bottom of a plywood disc, and have them roll on the metal plate. This will reduce the rolling friction significantly, thus reducing the power needed in how you rotate it.