Best bike brake levers according to redditors

We found 161 Reddit comments discussing the best bike brake levers. We ranked the 67 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Bike Brake Levers:

u/melvinrdrgz · 9 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle
u/Jehu920 · 9 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

Is this your first bike?


You should really check out the beginner advice thread and the $200-600 thread in addition to this one. There's a lot of helpful advice in there including SIZING. KNOWING YOUR SIZE IS SUPER IMPORTANT SO KNOW THAT FIRST.

Also, if you're in this price bracket and you don't already have the essential bike accessories:

  • A Front Brake and Lever and Cable if you're not sure what sizes you need make a post in the weekly questions thread. Some of the bikes I suggest have one already, but if they don't GET ONE.

  • A Floor Pump

  • A Metric Hex Set

  • A 15mm wrench if your wheels require it (most do)

  • A Lockring Tool 100% essential if you plan to ride fixed

  • Some Grease

  • Good pedals! Clips and straps, bmx straps, or clipless can all benefit greatly from a little extra cash.

  • A helmet

    Note there are other options for all of these that could allow you to save money/space/whatever, but you won't go wrong with what I linked. I'd really suggest having these even if it means you go down a price bracket on the actual bike, they'll all come in handy.

    New Bikes


  • An Upgraded Dolan Precursa at £Whateveryouwanttospend is just so customizable and awesome and the pricing is great and really everyone should get this if they can. I'd highly suggest opting for the front brake, miche pistard clincher wheelset (tubular if you're riding track ONLY), and sugino75 crankset options. You can even get direct drives for only £109 extra ( a $500 crankset whaaaat) so that's cool. If you really want to dive headfirst you can get clipless pedals too, but if you don't know what those are definitely make a post in the weekly questions thread.

  • The Specialized Langster at $650 retail is a super solid street and track bike. They go on sale sometimes for less and for $600 or less it's really a no brainer.

  • The Wabi Classic at $750 has been my go to recommendation for a long time. It's made of super high quality steel has excellent customization options, and is all around awesome. The biggest downside is the super relaxed geo. If you want something that rides more like an average road bike check out the Special or Lightning

  • The PoloandBike Williamsburg at £760 is a great option for European riders. The name brand finishing kit and artchetype rims give it that custom bike feel for a good value complete bike. If you swap out the front tire and maybe upgrade the crank this bike can be truly superb.

  • The All-City Big Block at $950 is easily the best looking bike on this list imo, but that aside it's a super ultra double awesome track bike. Really well rounded and could easily be the last fixed gear you buy. One thing to watch out for is the long top tubes that all city loves so much so take a close look at that geo chart.

    Used Bikes


    Another great thing about this price bracket is the used market. I daresay it is easy to find outstanding value bikes used in this price range if you know what you're doing. I helped a friend source this for $1100 and we were being choosey! Again, if you need help post in the questions thread or just PM me because I like helping people with this stuff.





u/bpwnz · 8 pointsr/bicycling

They look so classy for the money. Link for anyone interested

u/JaccoW · 8 pointsr/bikewrench

There are several hubs out there.

Shimano:

  • 3-speed (186% range)
  • 7-speed (244% range)
  • 8-speed (307% range)
    • And this weird disc + coaster brake version (SG-C6061-8CD) which might give you the best of both worlds. It also has Di2 automatic shifting which some people prefer. Price is okay @ €150 however when combined with the rest of the DI2 setup it's probably expensive.

      Sturmey Archer:

  • 2-speed (138% range)
    • Kick shift, so you don't need cables to switch gears. Takes some getting used to.
  • 3-speed (177% range)
  • 5-speed (243% range)

    As for levers, depending on what kind of brakes you are using, you could also look at using 4-fingers levers, designed for drum brakes. It's how early mountain bikers gave themselves extra leverage. Another option might be Sunlite dual brake levers which enable you to control 2 brakes with a single hand. Though that might be unwise in your case.

    ​

    Bike suggestions:

  • Vintage bike: An affordable option would be to look into classic 3-speed bikes (brands and models depends heavily on where you are located) and have a bike shop rebuild a wheel with one of the above hubs. A classic Dutch bike would fit the bill too. One advantage of these bikes is that they are often setup quite well already for commuting and have a more relaxed geometry which makes for a more forgiving or relaxed ride.
  • Hardwearing commuter: Around here we have this bike-leasing company and a friend of mine just got this bike. 7-speed coaster brake, dynamo hub and roller brake on the front. Very practical bike all around!
  • Stylish commuter: Veloretti makes bikes with just a coaster brake (which works fine in the Netherlands) and has some decent customization options. Front brake optional.

    These were just some suggestions as an example, not an endorsement of any of these. Though from what I've seen they are all high quality bikes.
u/mnimalst · 6 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

These work great for these types of bars and are dirt cheap.

u/dohaqatar7 · 4 pointsr/bikewrench

You can improve things a little bit by sliding the saddle forward a bit. It's not a lot and you have to be careful that you don't go past any limit marks that might be on the rails.

You could get a major improvement by installing some interrupter levers (not a specific recommendation, just the first link on google). The installation will be a bit of a project but, it will let you brake comfortably from the flats. If you know how to replace a brake cable, installing interrupters should be trivial.

A much more major project would be swapping drop bars to flats. Since you've got down tube shifters rather than brifters, this wouldn't be too expensive all things considered but, still not particularly cheap.

u/roburrito · 4 pointsr/bicycling

Time Trial Levers. The Tektro RX 4.1 is my favorite.

u/cromulenticular · 4 pointsr/bicycling

Why buy hoods? Just buy a whole new set of modern aero levers (with hoods built-in) for about the same money.

Example

u/wavespeech · 4 pointsr/bicycling
u/geronimo2000 · 4 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

they make fake levers for the stoker on tandems

u/handfulsofshite · 4 pointsr/bicycling

these shimano road levers should match the build aesthetic and have enough reach. i run them angled on a porteur bar, similar to how you'd be using them here. you could also consider a city syle lever.

edit - here's the shimanos on my bike

u/Gnascher · 4 pointsr/cycling

Nice. If you've got exactly that bike, that version of 105 has a reach adjustment under the brake hood cover near the top. Just need a small allen key ... peel back the hood on top and turn clockwise to bring the lever in. You'll need to loosen the barrel adjuster on the brake to let some cable out as you bring the lever in.

With disk brakes you should have lots of braking power, so you shouldn't need too much force on the brake levers to stop effectively. A bit of adjustment and practice will have you stopping on a dime in no time.

Another thing to consider would be adding a pair of interrupter levers. This will allow you to brake from the flat-bar section, which can be nice to have for city riding. They are mounted on the bars close to the stem, and go inline on your brake cable. This gives you a "flat bar" style brake, as well as still leaving you the ability to brake from the hoods.

u/HARSHING_MY_MELLOW · 3 pointsr/bikecommuting

That is one crazy ass setup you've got there! Here are some cheap bar end brake levers.

For what it's worth, bullhorns are generally only used on fixed gear or single speed bikes, precisely because of how your wonky stem shifters look. Unless you have downtube shifters or keep the thumb shifters on the bullhorns (which will still be painfully awkward to use), drop bars are the way to go.

u/nearlyclever · 3 pointsr/bicycling

I regularly (for a decade or so) see a 1-armed bicyclist on my commute, he's going the opposite direction so we've never spoken. Guy in his mid 40s; he rides a bike with no obvious mods.

One thing that you'll definitely want to do-- there are a variety of brake levers available that actuate both brakes from a single lever-- this is one example: https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Alloy-Double-Lever-Silver/dp/B000AO7H16

u/thegreybush · 3 pointsr/DIY

Very clever, I like this idea a lot. I would also consider adding some sort of clip that could act like a parking brake.

As for the uneven braking, you could try a brake cable splitter or a dual cable brake lever so you only need one lever to operate both calipers.

u/Tatsuoka · 3 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

Link:
Cane Creek Ergo Stoker Levers (Pair), Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ZTNXDW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Qh.kybBE7VME5

u/raygundan · 3 pointsr/bikecommuting

They make little in-line brake levers (sometimes called "cross levers") that you can add to a drop-bar road bike so that you can access the brakes from aerobars or some other position. Essentially, you cut the cable and install them in the middle of it, so both the original lever and the new little lever can pull on the brake cable.

That might give you some flexibility in placement and reach, although it doesn't help when riding with your hands on the hoods. You could put them on the horizontal top part of the bars, and use that as your "relaxed" riding position. Something like this. Or somewhere else entirely, if you can think of a better placement-- the nice thing about those is the flexibility.

Shimano also used to make a set of short-reach STI levers that we put on my wife's road bike (more than ten years ago) for similar reasons-- but I'm not sure if they still make those now that the normal levers can be adjusted directly as /u/sitdownrando-r points out. Nor am I entirely sure they'd address your problem, since it's just the hood height that's the problem, not the reach from the drops.

Edit: A spendier option occurred to me: the new electronic shifters allow you to add little shift "buttons" wherever you want. If you used those to shift instead of combined brake-shift levers, you could then go find a brake-only lever option that fit your hands better. This is probably both complicated AND expensive, though.

u/MyElectricCity · 3 pointsr/ebikes

There are double pull brake levers. I had one on my old gas bicycle conversion, because you need a brake lever for the clutch, and having 3 levers is a hassle.

u/this_shit · 3 pointsr/bikedc

Depends what you're used to riding and where you can store it.

If you can't store it inside, you'll need a 'beater,' meaning a bike that doesn't look appealing to thieves. For most people, the best deal is going to be a 90s "mountain" bike (something like this), which is essentially comparable to a hybrid, but with 26" wheels. It's a slower-riding bike, but with the advantage of better brakes, a more upright riding position, and thicker tires for fewer flats.

If you're used to riding faster road bikes, I'd get an 80s/90s road bike (something like this), and add cross-style brakes to it (i.e., a 2nd set of brake levers on the tops of the handlebars that let you brake while riding upright in traffic).

If you can lock your bike up indoors and/or want a faster bike, a newer hybrid or road bike is fine.

u/pyrojoesaysno · 3 pointsr/bicycling
u/newerbikeaccount · 3 pointsr/bicycling

https://www.amazon.com/TRP-Retro-Brake-Lever-Silver/dp/B005H418I2

Get those. I have the non retro version on my singlespeed and they're great, but the retro version would look so good on your bike.

u/Ultimate_everything · 3 pointsr/bicycling

THESE will work just fine for ya. They also have a quick adjuster on them for setting the lever distance from the bars.

u/c0nsumer · 3 pointsr/bicycling

A guy on our local forum lost a couple fingers on one hand, so he went to a lever that pulls both the front and rear mechanical brakes using a lever like this. I guess it works out pretty well for him and is better than the option of only having one brake.

The thread on it can be found here: brake levers for a cripple?

u/mindsound · 3 pointsr/bikewrench

Adjusting the brake levers entirely depends on the model of lever. There's no generic way to adjust reach and if they're simple levers there is probably no adjustment mechanism. However, she can replace them with a nice pair of "short reach" levers for pretty cheap, these Cane Creek ones are $30-40.

Regarding the front tire... could be 27", 26", 650B... just depends. An LBS could definitely figure it out and order a replacement. I'd do it through an LBS because if they order the wrong thing they'll make it right. :)

u/tonetookrazy · 2 pointsr/MTB
u/DonOblivious · 2 pointsr/whichbike

>Does anyone know how feasible this would be?

Should be fine.

>Would I be able to do it with the quill stem or would I have to buy a stem adapter as well

You won't need a stem adapter unless you want to run modern oversized bars. That'd look pretty derpy though.

Looks like it already has road style drops so you'd just need some bar tape, levers, cables and housing. ~$100 if you buy the housing cutter and do the work yourself.

u/_JakeVW_ · 2 pointsr/cycling

Check out the Cane Creek Crosstop levers- I'm running them on my single speed and they are great. I think they will work better for your bike than MTB brake levers since they are angled a little differently

https://www.amazon.com/Cane-Creek-Crosstop-Alloy-Levers/dp/B001JI8SKG?th=1&psc=1

u/suddensapling · 2 pointsr/Vintage_bicycles

Haha $70+ in levers later... I'm in Canada do so the dollar difference hurts. Oww, my wallet. But yes, having the push button release on cable tension should be convenient, especially since my cantis can be a pain to fiddle with. Your levers look good! They're reasonably compact too, which is nice. I figure I'll keep my old levers around for a while just in case I have a bad case of regret. I bought NOS hoods for them off ebay last year and never got around to re-wrapping the bars. Which, small mercies? Here's a nice comparison of the Cane Creek vs the TRPs ... damn but they are weird looking. ohgodwhathaveIdone....

Also sorry to hear about the crash! Funny about the low trail. I wonder if that holds true across the different sizes of that frame. Looks like you're well set up for front loads, then!

u/jzwinck · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

OK, here's what you need:

u/p4lm3r · 2 pointsr/Vintage_bicycles

I have these Cane Creek levers on a bike and love em. Nice broad top surface, which eases out the pressure.

u/theguth · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Your 'turkey legs' are the older road bike brakes with the 'suicide levers' that curve around so they are reachable from the flat section of your drop bars, yes? in that case, No, you cannot install v-brakes, they require your frame to have canti studs to mount them to. Your frame likely does not have these. You can greatly increase your braking power with a set of dual-pivot caliper brakes (likely long-reach model is necessary), a newer set of levers can help power and comfort greatly as well.

u/mania4conquest · 2 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

These work fine in my experience.

u/i_am_bokonon · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I ran into the same problem. I tried the Dia Compe Aero hoods on my Dia Compe levers and they did not fit to my satisfaction. Honestly, you would be better off picking up a set of Shimano BL-R400 levers. Really nice and comfortable and should provide you with a nice boost in braking performance.

Edit:

Levers on amazon for cheaper

These might be worth trying if those are Shimano 600 levers

u/Camelope · 2 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

Yeah I got some http://www.amazon.com/Cane-Creek-Trial-Levers-Black/dp/B000ZTNXCS on sale and I had to buy barrel-ended brake cables and housing to run them through. It's not an entirely complicated process, but it is a bit of work. I liked my bullhorns but now I'm switching back to the drops that came on it / my new track drops just to spice things up. Fixed/track/singlespeed bikes are all very simple to maintain, so it's not too hard to learn to work on it if you don't mind getting your hands dirty from time to time.

u/upthelolpunks · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I think that if quantum_spintronic is going to go through the hassle of fixing their brake levers, they might as well replace them with modern, internally routed levers. They'll brake stronger, and these aren't that expensive, and and are probably in better condition than the levers currently installed.

u/gl21133 · 2 pointsr/cycling

Mechanical disc. I had a Malus for a while, not a terrible bike. I got two of these: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UP7XPM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fit great.

u/Yacobeeb · 2 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

>This to my knowledge is the only thing that's going to work. I use one on my drop bar near the stem so its out of the way. You can also look cooler, ditch the brake, and buy more tires and shoes. Up to you! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N8V20D2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/bikeRetard · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Thanks for the reply.

The pads are hardened so I'll replace those. One of the levers is cracked and I feel like I have to use a lot of force to engage the brakes with the levers. They also have suicide levers on them so I would really like to at least replace the levers. Would the excessive squeezing be a problem with the levers or the cables? Anyway, levers like these or these would be what I'm looking for, correct?

Thanks for identifying the shifters. I'll probably go with bar-ends. When looking for a pair should I specifically be looking for 5-speed shifters?

u/imjusthereforab · 2 pointsr/bicycling

pretty much. They give you the drop bar hoods and ramps positions, and they're slightly cheaper to convert to.

Consider something like these TT levers as a cheap brake lever swap. Depending on how your shifter(s) is/are set up, that might take some more finagling.

I converted an old rigid mtb to a bullhorn commuter and rode it happily for years.

u/Sumpm · 2 pointsr/bicycling

SRAM S500s are a little more expensive, but a great choice for those who prefer the feel of SRAM hoods.

u/hatlesssniper · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Uh, I believe you just get the normal like this. Then you get an interrupter lever like this, and boom. Levers in both places. Not claiming to be smarter than anyone. Just surprised no one had suggested it. You don't have to get the levers I listed, just the same "type" I guess.

u/_Dale_Gribble · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Nice! I bought a Le Tour III for $50 and sold it for $100.

The absolute best upgrade you can do: Aero brake levers (Tektro R100 is what I got). You can route the cables under the bar tape. Makes it look and feel MUCH better.

I really miss my Le Tour. Have fun with yours!

u/eobanb · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Seems like an absurdly clunky and expensive ($300!?) device that doesn't appear to do anything that existing levers that pull two cables don't already do. For $13.

u/thogervo · 2 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

I have mine on the ends, as I spend the most time in that position and I live in a sort of hilly place that requires a bit of braking.

Aesthetically, placing them next to the stem is the best way to go, plus it's a little easier to mount and feed the cable through.

If you do decide to mount the levers on the ends, I reccommend the Cane Creek 200TT levers. Be warned however, they use mountainbike "barrel style" brake cables.

Happy riding!

u/nakedavenger2222 · 1 pointr/bicycling

Second on the Cane creeks mentioned above. You definitely should consider bar end style TT ones too.

I have one cross style for the rear & two bar end style. ( Cane Creek 200 TT Time Trial Levers (Pair), Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ZTNXCS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_R7QCCbEW9CR37 )

Have fun!

u/captcanti · 1 pointr/bikewrench

Since you mentioned suicide levers, you can easily add Crosstop levers. They work great and are easily installed.

u/Hardcorex · 1 pointr/somethingimade

Brake Lever

10 bucks close enough?

u/oxfordcomma · 1 pointr/bicycling

On cheaper bikes decals can be pretty low-tech, and cheaper bike-boom Centurions are not bad unless you buy bikes for the decals.

Not so much fixing, but there are things to check out. I would spin the wheels and see if they roll smoothly, turn the fork to see if the headset is okay, same with the cranks and bottom bracket. Most likely I bet the headset and bottom bracket are fine, but wheels get a lot of weather and road mess thrown at them and I bet the hubs need an overhaul.

If it were me, and I were doing all the work myself, I would replace all of the cables for shifters and brakes. I might also consider getting new brake handles, but that is just my preference.

I like these http://www.amazon.com/Tektro-Road-Brake-Levers-Compact/dp/B000AO5GVE

u/savageveggie · 1 pointr/bicycling

Don't use inline brake levers, use some like these. I'm sure you could find some cheaper

u/Returninvideotps · 1 pointr/bicycling

thanks for the intel. Can you give me any pointers on installing these? These seem highly rated and the price does seem right: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N3RB7UZ/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_cr_x__a_w

But, would I need to literally cut the brake lines and splice in these new cross brakes, and then continue the brake back through to the existing drop bar levers? Seems risky considering I've never done something like that before. If it's simpler than that, let me know. Otherwise, I might just bring the parts to a shop and have them do it.

u/aoris · 1 pointr/Vintage_bicycles

Sure you can.

If you opt for the older non "aero" brake levers, so they're called, you will only have to undo the bar tape from the bottom to the lever mounts. There's likely a bolt, 5mm, that you access from the front of the lever. You may need to push the cable out of the way to access it.

If you're going down this road, I recommend undoing all the bar tape and going for the so-called aero brake levers, which often feature levers that "blade" outward, so that you can more easily access them from the sides of the drops, but more importantly, are generally much larger and vastly more comfortable to hold. The cables are routed internally, under the bar tape, rather than on the outside.

Here are some models:

  • cheap: Tektro RL340
  • with modern flat hood angle: TRP RRL
  • fancier: SRAM S500

    TRP and Tektro make many other varieties to fit your brake cable pull needs, etc.

    EDIT: some more things I thought of, plus added (non-affiliate) links above.

    You can replace with non-aero brake levers (so called, because the cable is routed externally), or just replace the hood (grippy part). It will cost you the least effort.

    The aero brake levers do have other advantages I forgot to mention:
  • quick-release: when changing out a flat, you should disable rim brakes to spread them, in order to more easily drop the wheel out. While many rim brakes feature quick releases (/u/Synchillas , yours do, by the way), you can add even more quick-release at the brake lever. The RL340s & the TRP RRLs, I know for a fact, have pins that limit their travel. Simply push them to the other position & your brakes will open even more.
  • return spring: May be an advantage or not. Even in the absence of cable tension, at least the RL340 levers will return to their original, not-activated position. It's neater & prevents the lever from rattling if your brake cable tension is inadequate. Note many, if not all modern brifter units do this. However, some may rightly argue that it's more obvious that your cable tension is (unsafely) inadequate if there is no return spring, since you'll readily see the lever being all floppy, before you pull the brake.

    I do hate the fact that the fixing bolt (5 mm hex) is obscured by the brake cable in many brake levers. This is a nuisance if you ever want to just fine-adjust the position of the brake levers, or after a crash & they got bent.

    Shimano & SRAM fixed this by relocating the bolt outside. I'm not sure if this is the case with the SRAM S500 levers, but I suspect it would be.

    Furthermore, if you come across dysfunctional brifters (shift + brake combos, AKA STI), you can trivially substitute them in & just use the brake function, which should never have issues. I've done this a few times & occasionally your LBSes will discard these brifters, leaving you with a free pair of brake levers. Sometimes they are much nicer than dedicated brake levers.

    Here is a short review of the TRP RRL levers. The user does a comparison with the non-aero variety you have, & explains the use of the shim which gives a more modern (IMO significantly more comfortable) flat transition from bar to hood.
u/Sergisimo1 · 1 pointr/bicycling

Suicide levers are the extensions that let you brake from other places besides the hoods or drops. There is a possibility of the levers impeding you from applying the brakes fully if something isn't adjusted correctly, but really they just look tacky. Aero levers allow you to hide the brake cables underneath the bar tape for a nicer look, while also reducing wind drag (hence the "aero"). Aero levers also give a bit more mechanical advantage and make the hood position more comfortable. It really is just personal preference but it has it's advantages. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000AO5GVE (You would need to buy the rubber hoods for these)

u/AgentDaedalus · 1 pointr/BikeShop
u/autophage · 1 pointr/whichbike

If you know the shop guys, they might do it for free if you bring 'em a six pack. If you buy the brake from a shop, they might install it for you.

Honestly, though, installing brakes is pretty simple - you remove the bolt and washer, slide the pin in through the hole in the fork, and then put the washer and bolt back on. Tighten it down. The rest of it's just getting the cable tension and pad placement right, which you'll need to deal with on your own some day anyway.

The lever, on the other hand, depends on what sort you're going with. There are basically three options (I'm linking Amazon, but that's just because it was easy for me to search; you may find better deals than what I'm linking to, I just want to be clear about the sorts of levers I'm talking about - and furthermore, the ones I link might not even match the bar diameter for the bike in question):

  • Bar-end levers pretty much only work on bullhorns. I believe that some will work fine with chop'n'flop bars and some will not.

  • Road levers will look a bit goofy mounted on bullhorns, but will totally work.

  • Mountain-style levers - be careful that you're picking up some that will fit road bars, and be careful that they have the right amount of "pull" (this will be dependent on the set of brakes that you have).

    If the bike comes with a brake, I'd try mounting that on the front first; if it works, you've saved yourself some money, and if it doesn't, you may gain some knowledge about what in particular you need (possibly, for example, you can get by with just getting a different center pin).
u/breezy_anus · 1 pointr/cyclocross

I ran mini-v's over the last winter for what you describe. They were more powerful for the late summer (dry) single track rides but I found that the mud/grit/salt in my area was prone to getting stuck between the pads and rim/tires which made terrible noises, reduced my braking, and eroded ... everything. I'm going back to wide cantis for the rough weather. Discs would probably be the best for single track but might be overkill for anything less.

Try out different brake levers before you buy. I switched from these to these and think that was a bigger upgrade than switching from cantis to mini-v's.

u/zair33ka · 1 pointr/bicycling

These were awesome for my flop n chop bullhorns.

u/squiresuzuki · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

Protip: Next time, run the brake cable along the bottom of the handlebar all the way to the stem, securing it with electrical tape. Then, put your bar tape over that. It looks clean as hell.

PS. I also recommend these time-trial brake levers, they plug into the end of the bar instead of strapping around it.

u/BlackDebbie · 1 pointr/bicycling

I agree. Riding the hoods is where I like to be.

Though I like the Shimano BL-R400's in that price range.

If someone can tell me how the 600's are any different I'm all ears.


u/theplayerpiano · 1 pointr/bicycling

Since you're not using the hoods on the brakes anyways, why not get bar-end TT brakes?

u/mylifehasvalue · 1 pointr/bicycling

Actually I think those levers might have a smaller diameter because they're made for aero bars... not sure. But these look good:
tektro bar end reverse brakes, Dia Compe

u/uraniumbomb · 1 pointr/bicycling

The brakes I have are like the ones on regular bmx/mountain bikes. I'm not looking to change those but,

This is the bar I'm buying:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MMOI6O/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&m=A1J160NEEMK233

I would like these brakes and have it look like this:
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_V4w18ZWaPas/SfzzbZt3eoI/AAAAAAAAEtI/QeUuDAJQWQU/s400/Bicycle-Brake-Levers-05.jpg

I was looking at these levers:
http://www.amazon.com/Cane-Creek-Trial-Levers-Black/dp/B000ZTNXCS/ref=pd_luc_top_sim_02_04_t_lh

But I am entirely not sure on what I need to make it happen, are their special housings I need to buy? or better brake levers out there? Anything info would help out a lot.

I am riding just a single speed track bike with size 25.4cm handlebars if that helps.

u/askoshbetter · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

Oh yeah, no worries. They’re called “brake levers for drop bar handle bars”. These are the specific ones I got an amazon. SHIMANO BL-R400 Road Drop Brake Levers Set (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F5LLWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_1qGxDbM1TY53M

To not though, these are just brake levers and have NO shifting capabilities since this is a single speed bike.

u/SNOne · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

When you check amazon for these levers it also lists what other people have bought with these levers.

You could try to buy one of those, or contact a webshop/lbs regarding the inner diameter.

u/gbacon13 · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

I want to put bullhorns on my Specialized Sirrus SS. Does that make sense for the geometry? Also I would want to put the tektro rx4.1 levers on the ends. Would that work with my v-brakes?

https://www.specialized.com/us/en/sirrus-single-speed-mens-spec/p/173615?color=271962-173615

Tektro RX 4.1 Reverse Brake Lever Set Blacká https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CJX4WO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5RyFDbNPB1V6Z

u/itcouldbeme_2 · 1 pointr/bicycling

or just buy some stoker hoods...

https://www.amazon.com/Cane-Creek-Stoker-Levers-Black/dp/B000ZTNXDW

http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=6dfccf4e-6cc7-4ae2-a975-10c1df2be28d&Enum=118

they're made for the rear guy on a tandem... cuz he has no brakes.... :-)

u/brotherbock · 1 pointr/cycling

Can you fix the problem by adjusting the brakes in closer to the rim? (Apologies if they're set right, just covering bases and not knowing what your knowledge level is at.)

If not...

SRAM makes adjustable levers, I know: https://www.sram.com/sram/road/products/sram-s-990-aero-brake-lever


Have you thought of using a Travel Agent? Not sure if it can be made to work with cantis.

These Cane Creek levers claim to work with cantis and calipers, so they may be longer...?

u/Digitizkilla · 1 pointr/bikewrench

These Levers allow you to adjust the pull. I read a lot of good things about them and decided to buy them because they're a relatively cheap upgrade, and I was really impressed. especially because you can adjust them while you are riding.

u/alex9001 · 1 pointr/bicycling

Perusing SRAM's website the main benefit they tout is being able to shift both sets of gears with the same shifter.

I feel like it wouldn't be that difficult to just make a shifter that could shift both a regular FD and RD though...similar to those dual brake levers although a dual shifter would need 2 separate mechanisms.

u/Haloosinayeshun · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

Perhaps Tektro or Dia Compe. I've used Tektro in the past, they're great.

Edit: I've used both of these on different bikes

Velo Orange also sells a pair I've used on Nitto Northroad bars: http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/dia-compe-inverse-brake-levers-22-2.html

Tektro: I use these on bullhorn bars like pictured in OP photo: http://www.amazon.com/Tektro-RX-Reverse-Brake-Levers/dp/B001CJX4WO/191-0082638-2564130?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

u/takeshita_kenji · 1 pointr/bicycling

If you find yourself there a lot, there are brake levers that mount on the ends. I'm planning on getting a set of those once I convert a used single-speed I have to bullhorn bars.

u/Big-Pond · 1 pointr/bicycling

You can probably find plenty of turkey lever equipped bikes at your local dump (assuming yours allows for donation) if you want to go vintage.
Otherwise, the modern equivalent is called a “cross brake” or sometimes a cross lever. They are commonly used in cyclocross and are more hardy and effective than in the old days,

There is a model to fit every budget but here’s a cheap one
https://www.amazon.com/Tektro-RL720-Cross-Brake-Lever/dp/B0090X36Y0

u/streakybacon · 1 pointr/bicycling

I certainly wasn't looking for anything exotic, just a Cane Creek, but they didn't have any TT brake levers in stock, and in a store full of TT bikes it seemed like kind of a silly thing to not carry... my "surly mechanics" still got the job & a six-pack of beer while I waited a few weeks for parts, because I got the bike there & I wanted to give them my business.

u/samvegg · 0 pointsr/bicycling