Best bike brake parts according to redditors
We found 521 Reddit comments discussing the best bike brake parts. We ranked the 261 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 521 Reddit comments discussing the best bike brake parts. We ranked the 261 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
You could start with better friction pads.
https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Dura-Ace-Ultegra/dp/B0014BRW6E/ should fit.
Tektro should make a dual divot caliper that fits, but you'll need to measure the distance from the mount hole to the pads to find the right size.
Of course, that assumes that the cables are new and the levers are of adequate pull.
Is this your first bike?
You should really check out the beginner advice thread and the $200-600 thread in addition to this one. There's a lot of helpful advice in there including SIZING. KNOWING YOUR SIZE IS SUPER IMPORTANT SO KNOW THAT FIRST.
Also, if you're in this price bracket and you don't already have the essential bike accessories:
Note there are other options for all of these that could allow you to save money/space/whatever, but you won't go wrong with what I linked. I'd really suggest having these even if it means you go down a price bracket on the actual bike, they'll all come in handy.
New Bikes
Used Bikes
Another great thing about this price bracket is the used market. I daresay it is easy to find outstanding value bikes used in this price range if you know what you're doing. I helped a friend source this for $1100 and we were being choosey! Again, if you need help post in the questions thread or just PM me because I like helping people with this stuff.
The set-up:
Front brake, lever, + cable.
A) WTF are you doing to burn through brake pads in less than a month? I am 160 lbs and have owned the same main bike since 2012, commuted fast and daily from Brooklyn to Chelsea on it for at least 4 years in total, toured with 35 lbs of gear on a 2000 mile trip through Europe (including 40 mph descents through the mountains) and am just now needing to replace my Shimano 105 pads.
B) I'm replacing them with Kool-Stop Road Bike pads based on my awesome experience with them as mountain bike pads.
C) Unless you're wayyyy heavier, going a lot faster (Strava says I average about 14mph through the city, stopping at most lights), are constantly riding the brakes, or have them incorrectly installed, I just can't fathom how this would be happening.
D) If you're truly burning up pads this quickly, your rims may be (are probably) shot too (assuming rim brakes, not discs).
There are several hubs out there.
Shimano:
Sturmey Archer:
As for levers, depending on what kind of brakes you are using, you could also look at using 4-fingers levers, designed for drum brakes. It's how early mountain bikers gave themselves extra leverage. Another option might be Sunlite dual brake levers which enable you to control 2 brakes with a single hand. Though that might be unwise in your case.
​
Bike suggestions:
These were just some suggestions as an example, not an endorsement of any of these. Though from what I've seen they are all high quality bikes.
So... I had the same pads most likely on the R670... and they're just not great pads. What they really lacked was modulation, plus they built up crap in them constantly.
These work great for these types of bars and are dirt cheap.
The big thing about converting to drops is that they can add a lot of reach to your riding position. The second part of this guide can give you a good rough idea of whether you might need significantly more or less reach than you currently have, which you can adjust a little bit with different stems.
http://www.wikihow.com/Size-a-Road-Bike
Ultimately it's generally a lot of trial and error though. And it seems your bars are already 31.8mm so you might actually be able to use the same stem. At least for now.
I have absolutely no idea how much those origin8 parts would cost you. But you can probably get the bars themselves for less than $40, eg:
http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1033658_-1_400213__400213
http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1184245_-1_400213__400213
The main thing is the width, which largely depends on what sort of bike sizing you have and how big you yourself are, but since you're coming from super wide flats you could probably stick to 44cm regardless. The other difference is shape, which is largely personal preference. Doesn't help you much, but depending on what you want to use the bike for a shorter drop might be more comfortable. And at some point you just have to make the call on what looks most comfortable to you.
Your disc brakes are linear pull, which means it probably wouldn't be a good idea to use normal road levers with them. Tektro do a set of linear pull road levers which would probably be the simplest solution:
http://www.tektro.com/_english/01_products/01_prodetail.php?pid=10&sortname=Lever&sort=1&fid=3
Pretty cheap too. Shifting is a little more awkward, as your thumb shifter will probably have a diameter of 22.2mm and modern road bars are generally 23.8mm. But that shifting position itself is generally pretty awkward, yes. Your hand has to move quite the distance from the hoods or the drops to get there, around the bars themselves and often requiring you to change position. Short of using a road lever with a cable pull adjuster or something, which can get quite complicated and isn't generally the best, the best option is probably a bar end shifter. Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/SUNRACE-SHIFTER-HB-BAREND-SLR96/dp/B00JVK5ZLY/
So all in all that'd be around $40 bars, $25 for the levers, $35 for the shifter, $10-15 for some bar tape and maybe $15 for a new set of cables;
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Brake-Cable-Housing-Universal/dp/B0050LUBZ8/
Basically something like that plus a new bit of gear cable outer, to cover the distance from the shifter to the first boss on the frame. Probably cheapest and simplest just to get something like that from an LBS. But all in all that'd be around $125-130, if you're lucky and it's comfortable as is. If you need a stem with a different length or angle, probably closer to $150. If you do the work yourself. But for that you could end up with quite a nice gravel/adventure type bike which could turn its hand to endurance road riding, cross riding or touring/commuting quite nicely.
Alternatively you could just get some bar ends, which can help even if your arms are quite spread out. But if you want to get into longer distance riding, you might feel the need to upgrade again before long. Bullhorns can be nice, but often have a lot of the same problems with different diameters, and you still can't brake from that position unless you had TT style levers which I don't think you can get in linear pull. And they'd still need bar tape and such. You can do the research yourself, I just think it'd be a large portion of the investment in an attempt to mimic the riding position of a road bike anyway.
I've had the bike for a few weeks now and use it almost entirely for commuting. Here's what I've added since I got the bike:
The stock brakes weren't doing enough to stop me so I swapped them out for some Tektro CR720s. I dropped the yoke as far as I could to give myself as much leverage as possible. Braking is much better now and more reliable than the original set ever was.
I added a rack and trunk bag that's big enough to hold my food and clothes for the day. The only modification I had to make here was filing away some metal from rack mounting leg. It was colliding with frame near the dropout and not allowing the leg to sit close enough to the braze on.
Some of the original cable housings that came with the bike had some gouges in them so Nashbar sent me a new replacement cable set. I swapped out all the brake/shift cables and replaced the bar tape with some SRAM cork tape. The original cables from Nashbar were also a bit too long and were causing excessive friction.
I added some SKS fenders per the recommendations of users on this sub. They were a little finicky to install but I got them on in the end. This particular frame doesn't have bolt holes in either of the two rear bridges so I had to resort to the classic zip tie approach.
As far as the bike goes, it's been performing flawlessly so far. It weighs close to 30 lbs now so it's not the lightest thing in the world. However, the steel frame and the large tires really help smooth out the road quite a bit. The saddle is still the most uncomfortable part of the bike, but I'm hoping to swap it out sometime in the near future. Shifting is still very smooth and the 4 trim positions on the 105 front derailleur is a great feature.
If you're considering getting a bike from Nashbar, I'd definitely recommend them. Their customer service was fantastic and everything they shipped usually got to me door in 2-3 days (even the bike!).
This (brakes) plus this (shifts) comes out under $20.
I find it hard to imagine them any cheaper. A complete set of the black-coated inners costs pretty close to that at most LBSs.
Those are DiaCompe levers -- so just some DiaCompe brake hoods: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AO7N56/ref=twister_B003UWCTIG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
To replace you're going to need to pull off the brake cables and housing as well. May as well replace them at the same time along with the bar wrap. And put on a rear brake while you're at it...those old sidepulls are hardly the strongest and a pair of brakes is cool now.
Good job.
Now get some brakes!
https://www.amazon.com/Tektro-857AL-Linear-Pull-Brake/dp/B0196UXWYU/
https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ/
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Universal-Standard-Brake-Cable/dp/B0050LUBZ8/
Cheap!
(for cutting brake cable.. dremel cut off wheel in a ventalated area and a nail or something like that for clearing out the hole. for cutting the actual wire wrap a bit of electrical tape around the end and it'll prevent fraying.)
:D
edit:
Once you get some miles on it let us know what sort of range and performance you are getting. Looks like a fun ride.
Nice. If you've got exactly that bike, that version of 105 has a reach adjustment under the brake hood cover near the top. Just need a small allen key ... peel back the hood on top and turn clockwise to bring the lever in. You'll need to loosen the barrel adjuster on the brake to let some cable out as you bring the lever in.
With disk brakes you should have lots of braking power, so you shouldn't need too much force on the brake levers to stop effectively. A bit of adjustment and practice will have you stopping on a dime in no time.
Another thing to consider would be adding a pair of interrupter levers. This will allow you to brake from the flat-bar section, which can be nice to have for city riding. They are mounted on the bars close to the stem, and go inline on your brake cable. This gives you a "flat bar" style brake, as well as still leaving you the ability to brake from the hoods.
these shimano road levers should match the build aesthetic and have enough reach. i run them angled on a porteur bar, similar to how you'd be using them here. you could also consider a city syle lever.
edit - here's the shimanos on my bike
You can improve things a little bit by sliding the saddle forward a bit. It's not a lot and you have to be careful that you don't go past any limit marks that might be on the rails.
You could get a major improvement by installing some interrupter levers (not a specific recommendation, just the first link on google). The installation will be a bit of a project but, it will let you brake comfortably from the flats. If you know how to replace a brake cable, installing interrupters should be trivial.
A much more major project would be swapping drop bars to flats. Since you've got down tube shifters rather than brifters, this wouldn't be too expensive all things considered but, still not particularly cheap.
Adding to the point about upgrading the brakes, I bought a bike two years ago with very similar brakes (Fuji Sportif) and even upgrading the brake pads to these made a huge difference in stopping power over the stock pads. Plus the ability to swap just the pads instead of the brakes is great in the long run. Like zmjones said if you're just using it for fitness it's a perfectly nice bike and Claris is a solid groupset.
https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Alloy-Double-Lever-Silver/dp/B000AO7H16
I don't know what the point is though.
Toe-in your brakes, and use dual-compound brake pads like these
https://sheldonbrown.com/rim-brakes.html
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/brake-squeal.html
Time Trial Levers. The Tektro RX 4.1 is my favorite.
Just so you know those shifters are pretty sought-after and go for decent money on eBay. They work awesome, keep them, but when you move on from this bke you can probably get your $60 back pretty easily.
That said, your easiset upgrade is to change the brake calipers. Some good reliable brakes are the Tektro ones here, but then you're doubling the cost of the bike. If you have a bike co-op in your town go see if you can get a decent used set.
Whatever else you do, change the brake pads. These are ultra cheap and formulated to work with steel rims. You can check with a magnet if your rims are steel.
You might try replacing the brake pads with some of the Kool Stop salmon colored pads. I believe the "Continental" would fit these.
http://amzn.com/B001SYM690
Or get the pads you want with new holders for less
Or equally good (to 6800) 6700 sets for $10
Or any of the dozens of generic "ultralight" holders on eBay for $9.
Second time I've recommended these today! When the pads wear out, you can try these pads for the wetter weather.
I've always been fine with the Shimano pads, but some like the Kool-Stop better.
A guy on our local forum lost a couple fingers on one hand, so he went to a lever that pulls both the front and rear mechanical brakes using a lever like this. I guess it works out pretty well for him and is better than the option of only having one brake.
The thread on it can be found here: brake levers for a cripple?
Check to make sure the brake pad hasn't hardened or has a piece of metal stuck in it and is scratching the rim. I got a 2014 Trek 1.2 in May and I noticed a scratching sound on the back brake during the first ride. I took off the brake pad and it was clean. When handling the brake pad it felt like it was a rock. I checked the other 3 pads and they felt softer, like regular rubber.
When reading reviews about this bike before I bought it. A common thing was the bad brake pads. I decided to upgrade the brake pads. I got some Shimano br-6700 cartridge pads and they are amazing.
I hear kool stops are pretty awesome. I know Comrades sells them and Amazon has them listed for roughly the same cost as those first ones.
https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ
The rim is fine, take a scotch-brite pad with some soap and water and scrub it down.
Replace your pads (from what I can see, they'll be these)
Note: That groove on your rim is a wear groove. When it disappears, you're rims should be replaced.
If you're looking for better brakes but can't go with discs, there's large contact patch soft compound ones you can get.
Like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076KJD7XL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These have a 25% larger contact patch, and they're softer than most stock brakes. They'll grip the rim much harder.
These are also pretty good albiet more expensive: https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ/ref=sr_1_9?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1536557364
BTW you only need these for the front, because when the front gets more stopping power, its super easy to lock up the rear wheel.
These work great on my Astro branded one, 2 of them for $12.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050LUBZ8/
You need the appropriate holder for your brakes.
For lots of Shimano/Shimano-type road brakes, that's this one: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Dura-Ace-Ultegra/dp/B0014BRW6E
Depends what you're used to riding and where you can store it.
If you can't store it inside, you'll need a 'beater,' meaning a bike that doesn't look appealing to thieves. For most people, the best deal is going to be a 90s "mountain" bike (something like this), which is essentially comparable to a hybrid, but with 26" wheels. It's a slower-riding bike, but with the advantage of better brakes, a more upright riding position, and thicker tires for fewer flats.
If you're used to riding faster road bikes, I'd get an 80s/90s road bike (something like this), and add cross-style brakes to it (i.e., a 2nd set of brake levers on the tops of the handlebars that let you brake while riding upright in traffic).
If you can lock your bike up indoors and/or want a faster bike, a newer hybrid or road bike is fine.
There are double pull brake levers. I had one on my old gas bicycle conversion, because you need a brake lever for the clutch, and having 3 levers is a hassle.
Very clever, I like this idea a lot. I would also consider adding some sort of clip that could act like a parking brake.
As for the uneven braking, you could try a brake cable splitter or a dual cable brake lever so you only need one lever to operate both calipers.
I recently (as in 6 days ago) started biking again, having been away from the activity for about 15 years.
Last Sunday, I bought a foldie and I've had so much fun with it, I decided to get a proper road bike. I've always wanted to own a road bike with drop bars, thinking about how cool the idea was to shift gears with/around the brake levers.
With a budget of about 300 USD (I did not want to spend too much blindly), I started stalking the local used bike marketplace. I saw lots of cheap no-name bikes (~$75–$100), and lots of expensive bikes ($1,500+). Not so easy to find something in between.
Then, I stumbled upon a listing for a "Trek bicycle" for $300. That was about all the information provided online for the item. I chatted with the seller, who didn't really know what he had himself. I looked at the pictures of his bike, and compared it to Trek's archive. Turns out it's a 2012 Trek 1.2, pretty much what I was hoping to find.
Incidentally, he also lives like a 10-minute walk away from my home, so I promptly walk over there to meet him and test the bike. The chain and sprockets are a little dirty – looks to me like too much or wrong type of grease applied and dirt got stuck to it over time – but it still pedals smoothly and quietly. I figure I'd just have to replace the bartape and may as well replace the chain, crank and cassette anyway.
Guy sees what I see, and drops the price down to $265. We shake hands, and I cycle home on my first ever road bike. Changing gears with the brake lever is everything I imagined it would be :D
Also, the reviews about the 1.2 weren't kidding. These brakes are horrendous. Anyone have a recommendation on what I should do with them? I read some (older) forums mentioning to use Kool Stop Salmon, but I have absolutely no experience with road bikes (15 years ago when I did ride, it was exclusively MTB).
I love it just as it is, anyway :)
http://www.amazon.com/Problem-Solvers-Cable-Doubler-Brakes/dp/B001CJVLRO
http://problemsolversbike.com/products/cable_doubler/
http://www.brakedirector.com/
http://www.amazon.com/Pyramid-Alloy-Mountain-Cable-Brake/dp/B000AO7H16/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_1
I regularly (for a decade or so) see a 1-armed bicyclist on my commute, he's going the opposite direction so we've never spoken. Guy in his mid 40s; he rides a bike with no obvious mods.
One thing that you'll definitely want to do-- there are a variety of brake levers available that actuate both brakes from a single lever-- this is one example: https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Alloy-Double-Lever-Silver/dp/B000AO7H16
The Tektro Beach Cruiser Caliper should work for you. Any shop in your area should be able to order them, and they are solid brakes.
You'll definitely need a standard reach (vs. the new standard "short reach"). I made the mistake of not checking and had to run out and grab a new brake when I built my Steamroller. I have a Tektro R539.
They make little in-line brake levers (sometimes called "cross levers") that you can add to a drop-bar road bike so that you can access the brakes from aerobars or some other position. Essentially, you cut the cable and install them in the middle of it, so both the original lever and the new little lever can pull on the brake cable.
That might give you some flexibility in placement and reach, although it doesn't help when riding with your hands on the hoods. You could put them on the horizontal top part of the bars, and use that as your "relaxed" riding position. Something like this. Or somewhere else entirely, if you can think of a better placement-- the nice thing about those is the flexibility.
Shimano also used to make a set of short-reach STI levers that we put on my wife's road bike (more than ten years ago) for similar reasons-- but I'm not sure if they still make those now that the normal levers can be adjusted directly as /u/sitdownrando-r points out. Nor am I entirely sure they'd address your problem, since it's just the hood height that's the problem, not the reach from the drops.
Edit: A spendier option occurred to me: the new electronic shifters allow you to add little shift "buttons" wherever you want. If you used those to shift instead of combined brake-shift levers, you could then go find a brake-only lever option that fit your hands better. This is probably both complicated AND expensive, though.
Better for the application.
http://www.amazon.com/Pyramid-Alloy-Mountain-Cable-Brake/dp/B000AO7H16
One thing I'd really recommend is to hit up ebay for some better brake handles, as those dia-compe handles don't work particularly well. My old Shogun had those same handles someone had put on it, and braking was terrible.
I found some Shimano 600 brake levers for $20 (was a score actually). It brakes as well as my modern bike with those handles. Here's a pair for $30
Also, with standard old brake handles you can get some Cane Creek brake hoods off Amazon for cheap. Also, these grey brake pads work really well on the older brakes.
Other than that, tune it up and ride on! Looks like a great bike.
I don't think that's a 28" wheel. check again, old bikes are 27", new ones are 700mm, mountain bikes are 26" or 29".
Tires: Paselas used to be cheap and good 27" replacements at $15 each but the prices have gone up. CST brand on amazon are cheap chinese ones. Bell has these kevlar lined for $15
https://www.amazon.com/C638-Wall-Wire-Bike-Black/dp/B0037N32QQ/ref=sr_1_7?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1485405078&sr=1-7&keywords=27%22+tire
add 2x 27" tubes (700cc ~28-32mm tubes might work) for $4
Diacomp brakes: $6.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CJZ2S8/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item
brake and gear cables and housing: $6
https://www.amazon.com/PITCREW-500-Cable-Change-Kit/dp/B002GCALOU/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1485405425&sr=1-1&keywords=bell+brake+cables
Bottom brackets needs sweat equity, repacking with grease and wash out the crap.
So you're looking at $50 in materials and about 2 hours of time. I've done this on an old 27" bike and still had stem shifting, man when you get the opportunity finding a decent STI shifting bike on craigslist for $200-300 would be a great value to keep your eyes on.
Don't upgrade anything more on this. god help you if it's a french bike with french threading.
If you can move the brake arms around with your hand but squeezing the lever doesn't do much, that sounds like your brakes still aren't adjusted correctly.
Here's an excellent guide to everything about installing and adjusting V-brakes, including a thorough video walkthrough.
Worst case, $14 will get you a better V-brake than what came with the bike. But that shouldn't be necessary.
Your 'turkey legs' are the older road bike brakes with the 'suicide levers' that curve around so they are reachable from the flat section of your drop bars, yes? in that case, No, you cannot install v-brakes, they require your frame to have canti studs to mount them to. Your frame likely does not have these. You can greatly increase your braking power with a set of dual-pivot caliper brakes (likely long-reach model is necessary), a newer set of levers can help power and comfort greatly as well.
Yeah I got some http://www.amazon.com/Cane-Creek-Trial-Levers-Black/dp/B000ZTNXCS on sale and I had to buy barrel-ended brake cables and housing to run them through. It's not an entirely complicated process, but it is a bit of work. I liked my bullhorns but now I'm switching back to the drops that came on it / my new track drops just to spice things up. Fixed/track/singlespeed bikes are all very simple to maintain, so it's not too hard to learn to work on it if you don't mind getting your hands dirty from time to time.
>Does anyone know how feasible this would be?
Should be fine.
>Would I be able to do it with the quill stem or would I have to buy a stem adapter as well
You won't need a stem adapter unless you want to run modern oversized bars. That'd look pretty derpy though.
Looks like it already has road style drops so you'd just need some bar tape, levers, cables and housing. ~$100 if you buy the housing cutter and do the work yourself.
Thanks for the reply.
The pads are hardened so I'll replace those. One of the levers is cracked and I feel like I have to use a lot of force to engage the brakes with the levers. They also have suicide levers on them so I would really like to at least replace the levers. Would the excessive squeezing be a problem with the levers or the cables? Anyway, levers like these or these would be what I'm looking for, correct?
Thanks for identifying the shifters. I'll probably go with bar-ends. When looking for a pair should I specifically be looking for 5-speed shifters?
pretty much. They give you the drop bar hoods and ramps positions, and they're slightly cheaper to convert to.
Consider something like these TT levers as a cheap brake lever swap. Depending on how your shifter(s) is/are set up, that might take some more finagling.
I converted an old rigid mtb to a bullhorn commuter and rode it happily for years.
Brooks is the best, and expensive.
If you are on budget, for the saddle, Charge Spoon. Very comfortable.
Handlebar's aren't very expensive. VO Milano is $25.
Brake pads - you will need it, and makes the rider safer.Here is the link.
Fenders - VO alloy
The hoods in your first link won't work with these levers. They'll work with Dia Compe Gran Compe, Campagnolo, and Suntour's non-aero levers, but not with the ones in the OP's picture. OP's levers would take these hoods.
I think that if quantum_spintronic is going to go through the hassle of fixing their brake levers, they might as well replace them with modern, internally routed levers. They'll brake stronger, and these aren't that expensive, and and are probably in better condition than the levers currently installed.
It's like the first part of any tune-up on a bike with V-brakes older than ~5 years and costing less than $50 per caliper.
However, new V-brakes are crazy cheap and it can't possibly be worth your time to be constantly trying to fix this and dealing with poor performance.
Kool stop dual compound brake pads
OR
Kool stop salmon brake pads
You need the right pads for all weather conditions if you are riding in the rain. Especially heavy rain.
Regular black brake pads are truly for DRY conditions only.
Dual compound is for both. Salmon is for mostly wet.
Give a pair of these a try and not only will you have the best and strongest rim braking you've ever had, you'll have the best all-weather performance there is for rim brakes. It is absolutely worth the money and one of the best bike upgrades you can do for a rim-brake bicycle.
Make sure to toe in brakes to avoid squeaking and you're golden.
If this is for a commuter bike and rain happens here and there, this is a necessity for safety, not a luxury. The right brakes are just as necessary as a helmet.
3 out of my 4 bikes have rim brakes and these are the only pads I use or recommend. Getting the toe in correct for squeaking is a thing, but other than that they are the best brakes out there for rims. Hands down. Especially for rain and snow.
Just a replacement cable kit. It will come with the metal nipples for the ends and even some cable housings but most likely you can just re use your current cable housings.
Just as an example. https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Universal-Standard-Brake-Cable/dp/B0050LUBZ8/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=mtb+brake+cable&qid=1567710446&s=gateway&sr=8-4
yeah, exactly what u/stewmeatsundays has said, watch vids and rewrap the bars.
I personally like the Arundel cork bar tape.
Also, for older braking applications, I would recommend better brake pads like the Kool Stop Conti and you will also need a 4th hand cable puller, like this IceToolz unit.
The alternative would be to fit some long-reach modern dual pivot calipers like these Tektro r559 which come in nutted fitment to suit your frame.
nice looking bike btw, I love a Shogun. Had a Samurai until a few mths ago when it had an argument with some idiot in a Camry...Samurai lost
I use cane creek TT200 with cantilevers and have no issues
I am not quite sure. I found this on Amazon and should be what you are looking for!
Depends on how long your daily ride is. For me, I just go with my leather coat and an extra layer, nice windproof gloves (windproof and waterproof is a huge plus) and some nice toasty (wool, stays warm even when wet) socks with an extra pair for when I get where I'm going. Helmet with a toque and my snowboard goggles on extra cold/windy/snowy days.
As for the bike, I ran continental gatorskins for the past 2 years with minimal problems. Just make sure to not go too fast into a turn and always keep an emergency line open. There are, of course, winter specialized/spiked tires that would give you more grip but I guess it depends on choice.
Important note: brakes. The normal compound you use for regular spring/summer/fall riding won't work. It freezes and loses all grip. Invest the $30 in a the winter specialized pad packs (these are the ones I used and found a huge improvement over the stock shimano pads in cold weather, but any cold-weather specific pads should work well) and actually retain stopping power when it gets cold, makes a huge difference.
I got this package for $20 on ebay http://www.savannahtrading.com/images/DURASET.jpg - 2 sets of pads and a pair of holders. Not highway robbery but still silly considering it probably cost $1 to manufacture.
My next pads will probably be Dia Compe. http://www.amazon.com/Dia-Compe-Grey-Matter-Brake/dp/B001CJZ2S8 2 pairs for $8. I had something similar before and don't recall how they performed but am pretty sure they were no worse than the salmon pads.
Aluminum rims.
You're in the same boat as me! Kinda.. I ride a 2003 Giant NRS3, my first ever bike and likely the only bike I'll own for quite a while.
Granted it's a full suspension, not a hard tail, but from what I've found, it's pretty hard to do little upgrades to such old frames. When I wanted to replace the fork, RockShox only had two new offerings with rim brake compatibility, otherwise I would've had to buy disc compatible hubs which would've been much more expensive. There wasn't much selection left for rear shocks either, and most tire manufacturers have moved their best stuff away from 26" wheels.
Basically, with these older bikes, there really isn't much choice left in terms of making them nearly as competitive as modern bikes.
I've bought wider bars, a shorter stem, new grips, new pedals, new tires, and new brake pads, and that's just about the most you'd be able to do with most of these old frames in terms of changing your riding experience.
If you're looking for better brakes though, these have worked great for me. Converting to discs was way out of my budget, and these are much more powerful than standard pads.
Ah! Yes. Then you need brake pads for v brakes, linear pull brakes.
Kool-Stop Dual Compound Mountain Pads for Linear Pull Brakes Threaded,Black/Salmon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CLSWKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XFsKDb119BBTN
Anything like this. Personally, i like the pads that have removable inserts. They arent that much more and replacing shoes are a lot easier since you dont have to muck with positioning.
Kool Stop Bicycle V-Type Holder with Brake Pads (Dual Compound) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001T35RSC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PHsKDbR6NBC2N
Velo orange make a set. Clarks. Avid. Really any brand has a decent product like this.
Front brake is your friend! And the pads on stock tektro brakes are awful in my opinion. I would recommend these instead.
Also, these are the Kool Stop Dura Ace pad holders that I was talking about. They should work with your old brakes: http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Dura-Ace-Ultegra/dp/B0014BRW6E
LHT Frame - $520 after tax
Chukker Wheels - $85 x 2
Tires Schwalbe Marathon Plus RLX 700 x 45 C Bicycle Tire - $54 x 2
Alloy Headset Spacers - $7.89 x 2
Shift Levers - $60
Chain - $10
Brake Cables - $10
Brakes - $15 x 2
Extra Long Shift Cables - $6
Derailleur - $24
Cassette - $17
Crankset - $40
Spindle - $24
Headset - $45
Seatpost - $20
Brooks Saddle - $145
Rack - $35
Brooks Panniers - $150 x 2
Brooks Bar Tape - $65
Tools
Saw Guide - $41.36
Starnut Setter - $22
The upper half that I would use when my hands are on the straight but I've just decided to replace the handlebars and levers with new trial-esque setup.
Bars (Actually going black): http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-BullHorn-Handlebar-40cm-Blue/dp/B002I7PRTM/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&coliid=I18KYNBPDA5LPS&colid=1JHQW4V0BH9PP
Levers: http://www.amazon.com/Cane-Creek-Trial-Levers-Black/dp/B000ZTNXCS/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&coliid=I2TEPMUJD55N9Z&colid=1JHQW4V0BH9PP
Tape: http://www.amazon.com/SRAM-Supercork-Bicycle-Bar-Tape/dp/B00142FFDA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&coliid=I3MX9WOPKPQ0BU&colid=1JHQW4V0BH9PP
Uh, I believe you just get the normal like this. Then you get an interrupter lever like this, and boom. Levers in both places. Not claiming to be smarter than anyone. Just surprised no one had suggested it. You don't have to get the levers I listed, just the same "type" I guess.
I have mine on the ends, as I spend the most time in that position and I live in a sort of hilly place that requires a bit of braking.
Aesthetically, placing them next to the stem is the best way to go, plus it's a little easier to mount and feed the cable through.
If you do decide to mount the levers on the ends, I reccommend the Cane Creek 200TT levers. Be warned however, they use mountainbike "barrel style" brake cables.
Happy riding!
General rule of thumb for 10-speed or fewer for Shimano: the number of sprockets in the cassette should match the number of speeds for the shifters, and the rear-derailleur should be Shimano compatible (which basically means the amount of cable pulled per mm of movement remains the same). A MTB derailleur allows for wider gearing in the back (bigger sprockets), but is otherwise being pulled the same amount by the shifters (same number of sprockets).
It's never a bad idea to spend a little extra on brakes, but I actually have had great luck with Sunlite cantilever brakes as long as a) you set it up correctly and b) use a different, higher quality set of brake pads.
Sunlite Alloy Double MTN Lever, Black/Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AO7H16/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0QgYzbFXXTRE2
>salmon compound pads
Like these: http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Cantilever-Compound/dp/B001SYR4HO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=27YULV4MFFFI8&coliid=IH37QA2V3O3IK&psc=1?
I ran into the same problem. I tried the Dia Compe Aero hoods on my Dia Compe levers and they did not fit to my satisfaction. Honestly, you would be better off picking up a set of Shimano BL-R400 levers. Really nice and comfortable and should provide you with a nice boost in braking performance.
Edit:
Levers on amazon for cheaper
These might be worth trying if those are Shimano 600 levers
if they are stock brake pads i suggest replacing them , stock pads suck . Kool-Stop makes bitchen brake pads
i use these
https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_468_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VT8VXQ3PEAV6TW65VHEX
​
also make sure you ajusted the brakes right so they both bite at the same time
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YS1cW3I4OgQ
park tools does a good job explaining it
They can of course be found cheaper elsewhere, just be careful the nutted thing. http://www.amazon.com/Tektro-R559-Calipers-Silver-55-73mm/dp/B006Z0OVWC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422652766&sr=8-1&keywords=r559 If you're buying /new/ brakes I can't in good conscience recommend a cheaper product or I would, these are about as good as it gets on a budget for new brakes on old bikes. If you need cheaper, I would try and search eBay for older dual-pivot calipers and see if they have the long reach arms like these, or short reach like moderns ones (will be immediately apparent looking at pictures). But, that's me. Some good old centerpulls do exist, I just can't say I've ever been a fan of adjusting them compared to the dual-pivots.
Those are steel rims, so in theory can be hammered out, with the tires removed, but I've never done it myself... Steel rims dent easily, as you've discovered, and they also don't stop well when wet. It's important to keep tire pressure up to the maximum rated on the sidewall to reduce chance of denting.
You could get a new set of wheels, though that bike might not be worth the investment.
As for pads, I'd recommend Koolstop salmon Continentals---
http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Continental-Salmon/dp/B001SYM690/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1373582725&sr=1-1&keywords=kool+stop+continental
Seems like an absurdly clunky and expensive ($300!?) device that doesn't appear to do anything that existing levers that pull two cables don't already do. For $13.
Spend a few bucks and buy a set of decent pads like Shimano. I run a DP18 up front i grabbed from CL and it did not have a machined braking surface. I purposely burned through an old set of pads to break thru the clearcoat and paint to hit metal. If you have the NMSW rim then you go thru that first set of pads pretty quick. Now they are smooth, quiet, and with Shimano pads brake great. Just make sure with dual pivot pads you have them adjusted properly to the rim.
Edit: Changed the link to a set of pads.
Something like this may fit your situation: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006Z0OVWC?pc_redir=1396654313&robot_redir=1
I actually commute on a 1985 Schwinn Mesa Runner with a front hub conversion. As long as your brakes are adjusted correctly (I would also recommend getting new pads), they should be perfectly safe with an ebike kit. Test your stopping distance in both wet and dry conditions before a serious ride.
I got these cool stop brakes for my ebike and they are wonderful. I'm a heavier guy (~90kg), and with all the parts of my ebike, the bike probably weighs like another 20kg. I've carried another 10-15kg when I go grocery shopping.
I've only got them on the rear, but they work like 200x better than the shitty front brake pads. I highly recommend them. I've had mine for nearly 200km and they could some adjusting, but I don't think that they need to be replaced until ~500km.
You may want to look into caliper brakes as well. When I was building mine, the frame and hubs I had didn't have disc brake mounts, meaning I'd either have to weld them on or find really niche adapters (you may be in the same boat?). Most beach cruisers have caliper brake mounting holes though, it's usually just a hole sometimes filled with a bolt in the frame directly above the tire. This is assuming you don't have v-brake mounts which would be even easier.
If you look into caliper brakes, keep in mind that the front and rear brakes aren't the same, since their mounting bolts have to be different lengths.
https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=kool+stop+mountain+brake+pads&qid=1562761914&s=gateway&sprefix=koolstop+mount&sr=8-3
In their stock config the longer spacer is already on the inside.
>Would something like this work?
>http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-BR-5700-L-RC55C3-Cartridge-Brake/dp/B004JKJKWG/[2]
Yes.
(Source: Have the same calipers on one of my bikes)
Perhaps Tektro or Dia Compe. I've used Tektro in the past, they're great.
Edit: I've used both of these on different bikes
Velo Orange also sells a pair I've used on Nitto Northroad bars: http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/dia-compe-inverse-brake-levers-22-2.html
Tektro: I use these on bullhorn bars like pictured in OP photo: http://www.amazon.com/Tektro-RX-Reverse-Brake-Levers/dp/B001CJX4WO/191-0082638-2564130?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0
> I think I might like a minimum of a 105 groupset, but I haven't seen any bikes on that website that include the brake calipers/pads in that groupset. Is this cause for concern?
One way that site saves money is by going to less expensive brake calipers. Some major manufacturers do this as well, actually. Fortunately, Tektro brakes aren't all that bad -- maybe a bit heavier, but the stopping power is usually fine. If it's not, replacing the brake pads with some good Kool Stop pad for about $7 (each wheel) is an easy fix. You can also replace the brakes with [105 calipers]http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_576933_-1___) for $46 total (during a 20% off sale), and that's a relatively simple change to make.
> Next, are the clipless pedals that are sometimes included any good? I thought I read here that the pedals that are included for free are always pretty bad.
I wouldn't say they're bad, but they definitely give you the cheapest pedal they can find. And it's not like good pedals cost that much anyway. Shimano's R540 ($26 during a sale) and M520 ($19 during a sale) are perfectly fine pedals for casual riders. Or even modestly serious riders, honestly. I wouldn't choose a bike from them because it came with pedals. The pedals might be good enough, but if not it's an easy upgrade.
Yeah. You got a great deal.
You'll get used to the downtube shifters.
It seems like a small thing, but putting on some dia compe non-aero hoods will make it viable to ride on the hoods, which is a big difference on a bike like that. http://www.amazon.com/Cane-Creek-144-7-Hoods-Non-Aero/dp/B000AO7N56/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410525782&sr=8-1&keywords=dia-compe+non+aero
and some bar tape would go a long way.
hey i'm buying these for my single speed bike
now i was wonder would these cables work with them?
Oh yeah, no worries. They’re called “brake levers for drop bar handle bars”. These are the specific ones I got an amazon. SHIMANO BL-R400 Road Drop Brake Levers Set (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F5LLWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_1qGxDbM1TY53M
To not though, these are just brake levers and have NO shifting capabilities since this is a single speed bike.
These are pretty standard budget aftermarket brakes. The important thing is to measure from the mounting bolt to the plane of the brake pads on your current set in order to find the reach, then find replacements that fit. Looking at Giant Kronos pics, they look like pretty modern short-medium reach brakes.
Another option is to figure out what model of crank/derailleurs you have and find the brakes that were part of that groupset when they were sold new.
https://www.amazon.com/Tektro-RX-Reverse-Brake-Blacká/dp/B001CJX4WO
I have these on my Origin8 Bullhorn I
I've read that disk brakes put extra force on the fork (which makes sense to me), so I doubt a fork that hasn't been built specifically for disk brakes will be able to withstand that force.
Have you looked into long reach calipers? I'm not sure if that's what you meant by "dropped brakes". You'll need brakes with about 4mm more reach than you have right now.
These brakes seem to be well reviewed for 700c conversions. They are nutted, which is what you'll probably need if the bike is sufficiently vintage (which it probably is, given that it doesn't have 700c wheels).
Edit: looking at this thread, you may have issues with freewheel vs. hub. The last comment is particularly interesting and probably warrants more research for your specific case.
These were awesome for my flop n chop bullhorns.
Protip: Next time, run the brake cable along the bottom of the handlebar all the way to the stem, securing it with electrical tape. Then, put your bar tape over that. It looks clean as hell.
PS. I also recommend these time-trial brake levers, they plug into the end of the bar instead of strapping around it.
I agree. Riding the hoods is where I like to be.
Though I like the Shimano BL-R400's in that price range.
If someone can tell me how the 600's are any different I'm all ears.
Since you're not using the hoods on the brakes anyways, why not get bar-end TT brakes?
Actually I think those levers might have a smaller diameter because they're made for aero bars... not sure. But these look good:
tektro bar end reverse brakes, Dia Compe
The brakes I have are like the ones on regular bmx/mountain bikes. I'm not looking to change those but,
This is the bar I'm buying:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MMOI6O/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&m=A1J160NEEMK233
I would like these brakes and have it look like this:
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_V4w18ZWaPas/SfzzbZt3eoI/AAAAAAAAEtI/QeUuDAJQWQU/s400/Bicycle-Brake-Levers-05.jpg
I was looking at these levers:
http://www.amazon.com/Cane-Creek-Trial-Levers-Black/dp/B000ZTNXCS/ref=pd_luc_top_sim_02_04_t_lh
But I am entirely not sure on what I need to make it happen, are their special housings I need to buy? or better brake levers out there? Anything info would help out a lot.
I am riding just a single speed track bike with size 25.4cm handlebars if that helps.
http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Continental-Salmon/dp/B001SYM690/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
You have cantilever brakes and the squealing could be caused by a few things. However, I would really recommend getting that brake cable replaced as well. Judging from the photo it looks like it's either rusted or really worn out or there's some corrosion going on there. Either way I would inspect the cable to see if you need to have it replaced.
Since you're new to biking I would recommend having a shop install the pads for you + check the cabling. Cantilevers are extremely fussy if you don't have them dialed in right. Maybe ask to watch them do it so you can see how it's done for next time. Something like these will work with your setup:
https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Eagle-Cantilever-Bicycle/dp/B001SYR4HO?th=1
When you check amazon for these levers it also lists what other people have bought with these levers.
You could try to buy one of those, or contact a webshop/lbs regarding the inner diameter.
Hey, you know they are only like 20 dollars, right? Tektro has similar ones for even cheaper.
http://www.amazon.com/Cane-Creek-Trial-Levers-Black/dp/B000ZTNXCS
http://www.amazon.com/TEKTRO-Reverse-Triathlon-Brake-Lever/dp/B004W4JBT6/ref=pd_sbs_sg_3
I run kool stop dual compound brake pads on my Bianchi (Ambrosio Elite steel rims). It took a bit of modification, but these work great and are significantly better than the old pads. Works fine in the rain. http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Dura-Ace-Ultegra/dp/B0014BRW6E
I want to put bullhorns on my Specialized Sirrus SS. Does that make sense for the geometry? Also I would want to put the tektro rx4.1 levers on the ends. Would that work with my v-brakes?
https://www.specialized.com/us/en/sirrus-single-speed-mens-spec/p/173615?color=271962-173615
Tektro RX 4.1 Reverse Brake Lever Set Blacká https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CJX4WO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5RyFDbNPB1V6Z
> These brakes seem to have really long reach, and I can't fine any with the the 23mm extra I would need.
You only need 19mm to drop from 622 to 584. Which is still a lot, yes.
These brakes have the longest reach:
https://store.somafab.com/dimod750cepu.html
https://www.amazon.com/Tektro-R559-Calipers-Silver-55-73mm/dp/B006Z0OVWC
Keep in mind that going to brakes with longer caliper arms means that you have to squeeze harder at the lever to get the same force on the pads.
Can you fix the problem by adjusting the brakes in closer to the rim? (Apologies if they're set right, just covering bases and not knowing what your knowledge level is at.)
If not...
SRAM makes adjustable levers, I know: https://www.sram.com/sram/road/products/sram-s-990-aero-brake-lever
Have you thought of using a Travel Agent? Not sure if it can be made to work with cantis.
These Cane Creek levers claim to work with cantis and calipers, so they may be longer...?
I use these:
https://www.amazon.com/Cane-Creek-Trial-Levers-Black/dp/B000ZTNXCS
Just search "v-brake brake pads" on amazon and most of those should work. I use this for my front brake because it doesn't squeak but it isn't that powerful. If you don't have a front wheel that squeals like mine then get these really powerful ones.
Needs to be stripped down and de-scaled/de-rusted as much as possible. Chain removed and probably dropped in bin.
Fine grade steel wool or scotch-brite pads and kerosene can do a lot, and soaking components in Apple Cider vinegar works nicely as well, unless you have access to an Ultrasonic cleaner which is a better option. If you're going to stick with the original wheels, which look like 27s (630mm) then you're stuck with threaded freewheels. The Shimano 7sp HG freewheel is as far as you'll be able to go without either lacing a new hub into the rear wheel or buying a new wheelset in 700c. I'd refurbish the BB and Headset with new bearings, fit cables all over, throw a new freewheel on there and some Tektro r559 nutted mount brake calipers on there, some new Panaracer Pasela 27" tyres on there, job done. Oh, and lose the quill stem extender.
Sorry not get back to you sooner was really busy yesterday. The 96 model think would have had cantilever brakes as stock, V-brakes were brand new when this came out, and prety sure the Indy forks didn't come out on bikes until 97 model year.
So parts list of stuff to buy
Cassette:
https://www.amazon.com/SunRace-8-Speed-Nickel-Plated-Cassette/dp/B00DI65HGU
Chain:
https://www.amazon.com/X8-99-Bicycle-Chain-32-Inch-Silver/dp/B0013BV540
You might want to buy two you will want to carry a spare chain on tour
Tires:
https://www.amazon.com/Maxxis-Crossmark-Black-Fold-Tires/dp/B00GHTQ7Q4?th=1&psc=1 (might find cheaper elsewhere, but you want the dual compound/DC ones with the EXO casing ideally - there are cheaper options for tires that would work than these but I think it's one area it's not so good to cheap out on)
Shifters:
https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-SL-M360-Acera-Shifter-Speed/dp/B001ON6VIW
(or find some vintage 8-speed XT/LX ones from eBay, they are a little nicer)
Brake pads:
https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ
These should make a decent improvement to braking power especially in the wet, you could bring the old pads on the tour as spares/backups if they still work OK and have life left (always want to have at least a pair of spare pads)
New cables:
https://www.amazon.com/JAGWIRE-MOUNTAIN-SHOP-KIT-Derailleur/dp/B01DJGUEE8
You'll need at least new inner cables to install new shifters, and probably a good idea to replace the housing too, though you need either really good cable cutters or a Dremel/rotary tool with a cut-off wheel to cut housing, or get a bike shop to cut it to length. Not suggesting white colour that was just the first link I saw though it might look pimp.
Tools:
You could get a tool kit like one of these
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CW911XW/ref=emc_b_5_t
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CW911XW/ref=emc_b_5_t
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/nz/en/x-tools-bike-tool-kit-18-piece/rp-prod40997
Or you could buy a multitool that would be good for bringing on the tour
https://www.amazon.com/Vibrelli-Bike-Multi-Tool-V19/dp/B06XGWMGB9
And extra stuff like cassette tool and chainwhip and tire levers individually:
https://www.amazon.com/Oumers-Freewheel-Sprocket-Lockring-Maintenance/dp/B07GSRJGP3
https://www.amazon.com/Schwalbe-1847-Bicycle-Tire-Levers/dp/B000UAQL6C
That might be the way to go.
That's not everything you'd need to go touring and stuff like the bars and saddle are a lot about personal taste but should be good to get you started.
Apologies for using amazon.com links I'm too used to helping Americans on here but hopefully can get them on the .ca site. Chain Reaction that I linked the toolkit from (would be confident that's the best out of those three kits I have some of the tools from it) in the UK can be a good place to order stuff from
Perusing SRAM's website the main benefit they tout is being able to shift both sets of gears with the same shifter.
I feel like it wouldn't be that difficult to just make a shifter that could shift both a regular FD and RD though...similar to those dual brake levers although a dual shifter would need 2 separate mechanisms.
Second on the Cane creeks mentioned above. You definitely should consider bar end style TT ones too.
I have one cross style for the rear & two bar end style. ( Cane Creek 200 TT Time Trial Levers (Pair), Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ZTNXCS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_R7QCCbEW9CR37 )
Have fun!
That is a pretty common brake/shifter, and luckily isn't expensive new.
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Altus-ST-EF51-Shifter-Cables/dp/B01DLGRQ2O/
A v-brake set isn't very expensive, either.
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-BR-T4000-Rear-V-Brake-Black/dp/B00MWHDNT4
Okay, so with $200, assuming I was doing the work:
Wrap handlebars - $11.53 (sweet dark red, cause the red on there looks awesome already)
Cheap 700c wheels from co-op - $20? (Talk with them about the gearing to see if the range is the same, or if you want tighter range or whatever, they probably have a few sets there with somewhat different gear ranges on the rear)
Saddle from co-op - $5-10
Tubes/tires - $45 (tires, tubes)
Derailleur cables - $7 (Shimano, here)
Brake cables - $10.39 (Shimano, here)
Brake levers - $22.53 (Tektro RL340)
Brakes - $62 - (Tektro 539 rear, front)
5-speed chain - 7.98 (here)
Then I'd try to get pedals and a cheap but aluminum quill stem, handlebars, and seatpost from the co-op. Depending on where you are, you may be able to get all for $20 or less. Functional new parts suggestions: (not guaranteed to fit. These have all sorts of different diameters over the years/models, so you need to know what you have/need. Handlebars, Seatpost, stem.)
I like these. Lots of braking power. Only downside is that you have to do the full setup again each time you change the pad. In stock holders, you can set it up once, and then just change the pad inserts.
Just about anything is better than the stock Tektro pads.
If you find yourself there a lot, there are brake levers that mount on the ends. I'm planning on getting a set of those once I convert a used single-speed I have to bullhorn bars.
Fuck...I ordered the Dura-Ace pads. What's the difference with Dura2? The pads already in my brakes don't have the little "ribbed" backing so I thought the Dura-Ace/Ultegra pads looked more similar.
You can probably find plenty of turkey lever equipped bikes at your local dump (assuming yours allows for donation) if you want to go vintage.
Otherwise, the modern equivalent is called a “cross brake” or sometimes a cross lever. They are commonly used in cyclocross and are more hardy and effective than in the old days,
There is a model to fit every budget but here’s a cheap one
https://www.amazon.com/Tektro-RL720-Cross-Brake-Lever/dp/B0090X36Y0
Found the tires x2.
Tubes x2.
Seat is your choice, look for a "cruiser seat" if you want to retain the look of it x1.
Brake pads x2.
Cable kit is above. That should give you a rough outline of what I had to replace on mine, not counting opening up any of the sealed components to clean and regrease.
My buddy built one of these when he was barely scraping by without a car after high school. Said it was great at getting him to work except for the fact he was running though brake pads like weekly since he used a 70's road bike with the extra atrocious eraser type brake pads.
You will need new shifters and I would guess the brakes are missing too. So you may need new brake levers. New cable housing to route the cables. Adjusting everything. Links to some options are below
https://www.amazon.com/Paraout-Shimano-SL-M310-Shifter-Trigger/dp/B07W4HK3QP/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=bike+trigger+shifter+3x8&qid=1573758587&sr=8-1
https://www.amazon.com/BicycleStore%C2%AE-Universal-Aluminum-Bicycle-Mountain/dp/B013QLONKM/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_pm?ac_md=1-0-VW5kZXIgJDEw-ac_d_pm&keywords=brake+lever&pd_rd_i=B013QLONKM&pd_rd_r=b88b7687-7250-4233-87eb-35bb520fc968&pd_rd_w=lALuB&pd_rd_wg=vs2TF&pf_rd_p=24d053a8-30a1-4822-a2ff-4d1ab2b984fc&pf_rd_r=0QYX1S131NSC5930Z3QS&psc=1&qid=1573758728
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Universal-Standard-Brake-Cable/dp/B0050LUBZ8/ref=sr_1_6?crid=M0H4P9EMDCUC&dchild=1&keywords=replacement+brake+cable+for+bicycle&qid=1573758757&sprefix=replacement+brake%2Csporting%2C194&sr=8-6
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Standard-Zinc-coated-Derailleur-1-2x2100-mm/dp/B00KXMEXOY/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=shift+cable+bike&qid=1573758787&sr=8-4
You could try a harder pad, but often that results in less friction or more force required at the lever to get the same braking performance. Kool-stop used to make great rim brake pads and appear to still make them. Might be worth a try.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014BRW6E/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_hnEYDbJ9WSXJP
They are about twice the cost initially but once pad replacement is required, the insert is about the same price at the pads you currently use.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CJVA9S/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_4pEYDb6FBC54S
If you decide to try these or any other pad, verify fitment. It's been years since I've worked on a road bike and don't know if compatibility is what I remember. They visually look the same as far as mounting goes.
Nevermind, seems I was mistaken. $28USD for a mechanical brake and shifter cable set on Amazon. It'd be about $45 retail for a hydraulic brake hose and a shift cable set.
Since a bike shop buys this stuff wholesale they can easily afford to charge exactly retail or under for a service like this and still make a fair profit, so OP is either being upcharged in parts too if it's a mechanical brakeset, or were charged a reasonable price for hydraulic.
Fyi, you can buy replacement hoods that'll fit those levers. The bottom of the hood interferes a little with braking, but that's fixable by making a 3/4 inch cut along the bottom where the brake lever pushes in. Cane Creek 144.7 Hoods Non-Aero Gum https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AO7N56/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8WpLzbQ3VZK4B
I have a 73 Continental which is almost identical. Love that bike. Lots of cheap parts available for it and it's built like a tank (of course that means it's heavy as shit). Nice wide tires so it can go anywhere.
You'll want a new saddle and some new pedals at least. If the rest is in good shape I say leave it.
These should be the brake pads you need.
www.amazon.com/dp/B001CJZ2S8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3a5qybTMGFV9C
I certainly wasn't looking for anything exotic, just a Cane Creek, but they didn't have any TT brake levers in stock, and in a store full of TT bikes it seemed like kind of a silly thing to not carry... my "surly mechanics" still got the job & a six-pack of beer while I waited a few weeks for parts, because I got the bike there & I wanted to give them my business.
You're welcome. Remove that cable but save it so you can use for measurements. You CAN ride the bike without it but it will be in low (3rd) gear.
Shifting on these goes like this...
1 (1st) is high gear and is the easiest. When used the cable pulls that indicator chain all the way out.
2 (2nd) is normal as if riding a single speed bike. The cable pulls the indicator about halfway.
3 (3rd) is low gear and the hardest to pedal in. Cable doesn't pull at all. Takes a bit more muscle to pedal but you can go really fast.
Once you replace that cable you'll have a nice bike to ride. They are ridiculously easy to maintain once you get the hang of it.
Also, your wheels probably have chrome/steel rims. You will want to replace the brake pads with Kool-Stop Continentals. Get the SALMON (orange) colored ones here. These are the best brake pads for these old wheels. Salmon color only though!
Shimano 600 brake hoods are like $40+ which i won't drop.
I tried https://www.amazon.com/Cane-Creek-144-7-Hoods-Non-Aero/dp/B000AO7N56/ which some people said worked on shimano 600 levers, but had to cut a lot of material, didn't fit well, and tore when i had to stretch em a bit.
If the front wheel you have has no disc mount holes you could just use the rim brake surface. This rim brake would mount on the hole of the fork.
With the wheelset you posted above, and assuming you'd be putting modern road tires on the wheels, no. You'd want this style of front brake and this style of rear brake.
You want this style if you can get it to fit.
My bike had the old style one too and I just drilled out the hole in the back of the fork to accommodate them. I couldn't really do that for the back one so I ended up using the front brake on the back and getting a really long nut to use the back one on the front http://problemsolversbike.com/products/sheldon_fender_nuts. The drilling took about a minute, just get a drill bit that's the same size as the nut (I think I used a 5/8 bit, but don't quote me on that). If that's too much work for you Tektro makes the old style mount ones too http://www.amazon.com/Tektro-R539-Pivot-Brake-Caliper/dp/B007QMIP2K but its $30 each for basically the same thing
so this one? there seem to be a couple models to choose from
http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Dura-Ace-Ultegra/dp/B0014BRW6E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1425337739&sr=8-2&keywords=kool+stop
Sizing:
http://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/frame-sizer
Tires:
http://www.amazon.com/Continental-Gatorskin-Bicycle-700x23-Folding/dp/B001UL5JNG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1427761173&sr=8-2&keywords=bike+tires
Brake Pads:
http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427761257&sr=8-1&keywords=kool+stop
Tune ups:
http://www.wasatchtouring.com/
http://highlanderbikeshop.com/service/
So I recently lost one of my brake pads. I have these brakes and planning on buying these replacements. Can anyone advise if these brakes are the right ones? They look like they fit, but I know there are other types of brakes like v-brakes and disc brakes that I don't know too much about. Thanks!
Thanks, that makes sense!
Would this work: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004JKJKWG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2TE9IQP68MWQU
I ordered up a couple pairs of these Kool Stop pads from Amazon. Will report back once I get and install them.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CLSWKQ
I wonder if this bike will take brakes like these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BLM3TZO#Ask
Pads are cheap and easy to replace, decent ones aren't even too expensive. I run https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CLSWKQ on my bikes myself and the difference between them and stock Tektro pads (or 30 year old pads) is night and day. They also stand out if anyone takes your bike, I mean who else has black/salmon pads? http://i.imgur.com/LEu0Ppj.jpg
If pads don't do it, you might need a cable replacement too. It's one of the easiest tasks around, you'll just need cable cutters which is the most expensive part of the whole ordeal.
thanks for the advice. Ordered these form Amazon.ca which I think are the same as the linked nashbar ones. http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004JKJKWG/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
New brake pads made a big difference for me. I bought these and they made a big difference. Also make sure your brakes are adjusted correctly.
What /u/mmembrino said. I recommend the Kool Stop
Lever/dp/B0090X36Y0)
Then we'll talk about an upvote
Like most places in NYC, they are not 'cheap,' but they are not really 'expensive.'
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Brake-Cable-Housing-Universal/dp/B0050LUBZ8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1501542680&sr=8-2&keywords=brake+cables
You were charged about twice the value of the cables.
> single pivot caliper brakes suck
SheldonBrown disagrees:
"Shimano Linear Response, a series of friction-reducing modifications introduced in the late 1980's in the
Shimano 105 group. The 105 SLR brakes (the best sidepull calipers ever made, in my opinion) "
I can speak from experience that my BR1050s and BR6400s stop just as good as any modern dual pivot, and look much better on a vintage bike IMO. If you're having problems with braking performance, it's most likely the pads. Spend that $40 on some KoolStop Dura 2s, and you'll never need to "upgrade" to dual pivot.
I would upgrade to Shorty side pulls and these pads http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1374713430&sr=8-7&keywords=bicycle+brake+pads