Best bike components & parts according to redditors

We found 4,409 Reddit comments discussing the best bike components & parts. We ranked the 2,345 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Bike cables
Bike forks
Bike suspension products
Bike drivetrain components
Sports & outdoors Bike Brakes & Parts
Sports & outdoors Derailleurs & Shifters
Bike ahndlebars & stems
Bike saddles & accessories
Bike pedals & cleats

Top Reddit comments about Bike Components & Parts:

u/rxmxsh · 16 pointsr/bicycling

I went this route from day 1 of my commuter purchase. I love them:

I reduced the tension nearly all the way, and it's super easy to clip in and out. You will fall. Know that right now. You'll forget and you will fall.

The nice thing is having the platform pedal on one side so you can wear street shoes when you so desire.

u/Recipe_For_Confusion · 15 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

I use SPD clipless pedals, along with these shoes. I prefer MTB clipless shoes because they have a recessed cleat and are much easier to walk in than road-oriented kicks.

The difference you notice when using a clipless system is astounding, and I would never go back to platforms/cages. So much more efficient and natural feeling.

u/Sir_not_sir · 15 pointsr/bikewrench

You could start with better friction pads. should fit.

Tektro should make a dual divot caliper that fits, but you'll need to measure the distance from the mount hole to the pads to find the right size.

Of course, that assumes that the cables are new and the levers are of adequate pull.

u/taonzen · 10 pointsr/bicycling

If you want an inexpensive alternative, you could try putting some different bar ends on your handlebars to give you some different riding positions.

Here's some that mimic the drop-bar style, and would probably give you a good idea if that style would be right for you.

u/scoofy · 10 pointsr/sanfrancisco

Hey everyone, you may have seen me raging or telling people to be nice around the subreddit now and then, but you may not know that i am a mod on /r/bicycling and started /r/nycbike.

So this is a decent article about locking, but again... like always, it misses several critical aspects of bike locking.

  • U-Locks: Smaller is better, buy quality, buy quality!!!

    Why is smaller better? Because the way you break a u-lock is with a jack, and if you can't get the jack into the lock, you can't break the lock.

  • Cable locks are garbage!!! They are fucking garbage, do not buy them... do not buy a cable lock! They are worthless and you can break them with a simple pipe without making any noise.

    >The front wheel will always be easier to take off then the rear, so knowing how to lock it is a valuable skill.

    This is wrong. Back wheels come off just a easily as front, and cost more to replace, and i want to punch every writer that says to lock your front wheel because it's "safer" cause it's fucking not and never has been, ever!

    Which reminds me, the sheldon brown method doesn't work, btw.

    >Using two locks is the most secure method.

    No, well maybe, but no, not really. The most secure method is to lock with 300 individual locks in your apartment, and never leave the house. Any intellectually honest person will tell you that you need to be smart, and prepare yourself for when you are lazy, and want to leave your bike out for "just one second" and don't want to bother to lock it, and that's when it gets stolen.

    This is a psychological problem. The solution is locking skewers.

  • Buy locking skewers. Please for the love of god, buy a small u-lock, a tiny seat cable, and locking fucking skewers. Please, i'm begging you.

    This is the method i use, because i'm lazy, and if i have to do anything that makes me do real work (like carry around a bunch of u-locks, or a bullshit cable lock), then i just very well may act stupid and not properly lock up my bike, as it stands, it takes me 2 seconds to lock my bike perfectly securely.

    tl;dr: Ideally, you want a small, quality u-lock. This locks your frame and will also lock your seat if you buy a seat cable. Just remember to make a slipknot through the seat's rails (nobody really want's to steal your crappy seat anyway). Next, buy locking skewers!!!. If your front wheel is bolt on, then just wait and see if it ever gets stolen (it probably won't unless you're unlucky), then buy a new front wheel with a skewer, and add a locking skewer. If your back wheel is bolt on, buy a longer u-lock and lock through the rear triangle and rear wheel together. Now, if you really give a shit about your bike, buy a locking top cap. This will save your fork if you come across any jerks that want your sweet, vintage, peugeot chrome fork.

    Also, never leave your bike outside over night, ever!
u/JakWote · 9 pointsr/bicycletouring

Two sets of whatever clothes you wear whilst riding. Wool socks.

Wet weather gear, at least a waterproof shell for your top.

One set of civilian/camp clothes. I like slip-on shoes like Sanuks, but whatever floats your boat. I hear flip-flops are popular.

Tools. Allen wrenches and small fixed wrenches for anything you might have to adjust immediately (brakes, fenders, racks, derailleurs, etc). A flathead and a #2 phillips screwdriver, or a multitool with those. Tire levers, patch kit, pump/CO2. Tire boot maybe? I've never needed one, but they seem useful. Spoke wrench, replacement spokes or a one of these sweet things, anything else relevant to your setup for on-road fixes.

Tent/shelter, groundcloth, sleeping bag. Sleeping pad?

Fuel bottle, stove, water pot, spoon. Water filter? I like bringing chopsticks, they're small and help flip things while cooking, but pocket rockets are more for boiling than cooking, right? I don't really know.

Camera. Notebook and pencil. E-reader or book maybe. Soap and a toothbrush.

Try to pack less than you need and pick up things on the way. Better to save the weight.

u/Jehu920 · 9 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

Is this your first bike?

You should really check out the beginner advice thread and the $200-600 thread in addition to this one. There's a lot of helpful advice in there including SIZING. KNOWING YOUR SIZE IS SUPER IMPORTANT SO KNOW THAT FIRST.

Also, if you're in this price bracket and you don't already have the essential bike accessories:

  • A Front Brake and Lever and Cable if you're not sure what sizes you need make a post in the weekly questions thread. Some of the bikes I suggest have one already, but if they don't GET ONE.

  • A Floor Pump

  • A Metric Hex Set

  • A 15mm wrench if your wheels require it (most do)

  • A Lockring Tool 100% essential if you plan to ride fixed

  • Some Grease

  • Good pedals! Clips and straps, bmx straps, or clipless can all benefit greatly from a little extra cash.

  • A helmet

    Note there are other options for all of these that could allow you to save money/space/whatever, but you won't go wrong with what I linked. I'd really suggest having these even if it means you go down a price bracket on the actual bike, they'll all come in handy.

    New Bikes

  • An Upgraded Dolan Precursa at £Whateveryouwanttospend is just so customizable and awesome and the pricing is great and really everyone should get this if they can. I'd highly suggest opting for the front brake, miche pistard clincher wheelset (tubular if you're riding track ONLY), and sugino75 crankset options. You can even get direct drives for only £109 extra ( a $500 crankset whaaaat) so that's cool. If you really want to dive headfirst you can get clipless pedals too, but if you don't know what those are definitely make a post in the weekly questions thread.

  • The Specialized Langster at $650 retail is a super solid street and track bike. They go on sale sometimes for less and for $600 or less it's really a no brainer.

  • The Wabi Classic at $750 has been my go to recommendation for a long time. It's made of super high quality steel has excellent customization options, and is all around awesome. The biggest downside is the super relaxed geo. If you want something that rides more like an average road bike check out the Special or Lightning

  • The PoloandBike Williamsburg at £760 is a great option for European riders. The name brand finishing kit and artchetype rims give it that custom bike feel for a good value complete bike. If you swap out the front tire and maybe upgrade the crank this bike can be truly superb.

  • The All-City Big Block at $950 is easily the best looking bike on this list imo, but that aside it's a super ultra double awesome track bike. Really well rounded and could easily be the last fixed gear you buy. One thing to watch out for is the long top tubes that all city loves so much so take a close look at that geo chart.

    Used Bikes

    Another great thing about this price bracket is the used market. I daresay it is easy to find outstanding value bikes used in this price range if you know what you're doing. I helped a friend source this for $1100 and we were being choosey! Again, if you need help post in the questions thread or just PM me because I like helping people with this stuff.

u/melvinrdrgz · 9 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle
u/bb_nyc · 8 pointsr/NYCbike

A) WTF are you doing to burn through brake pads in less than a month? I am 160 lbs and have owned the same main bike since 2012, commuted fast and daily from Brooklyn to Chelsea on it for at least 4 years in total, toured with 35 lbs of gear on a 2000 mile trip through Europe (including 40 mph descents through the mountains) and am just now needing to replace my Shimano 105 pads.

B) I'm replacing them with Kool-Stop Road Bike pads based on my awesome experience with them as mountain bike pads.

C) Unless you're wayyyy heavier, going a lot faster (Strava says I average about 14mph through the city, stopping at most lights), are constantly riding the brakes, or have them incorrectly installed, I just can't fathom how this would be happening.

D) If you're truly burning up pads this quickly, your rims may be (are probably) shot too (assuming rim brakes, not discs).

u/pigcupid · 8 pointsr/bikewrench

I've never been out there for 2 months, but for longer tours I carry a regular Crank Brothers multitool, spare tubes, a patch kit (just got buy a fresh one from the bike shop, don't chance your cement being dry), along with a cassette cracker and a FiberFix spoke. I also laminated the instructions for the FiberFix, because it's tricky, and I keep it stuffed in a ziplock baggie with a $5 bill and some pieces of Tyvek. Though if I were heading out there for two months, I might consider bringing a few spokes of all sizes I actually need. I presume you will be carrying large saddle bags and not trying to keep weight and size to an absolute minimum, so there's no real harm there.

Obviously one or two spare quick links for whatever speed of chain you are using. Don't worry about mixing KMC and Shimano or something, that doesn't really matter in real life, and it matters even less when you're trying to cobble your bike together to make it to the next place with water.

When my bike had a spare derailleur hanger, I carried an exact match. I kept it wrapped up in a plastic bag inside of one of my spare tubes, so I always knew where to find it. My touring bike now has an integrated hanger, so I keep universal derailleur hanger with me, but fortunately I've never had to use it.

Aside from that, the only unusual thing I carry with me, as I mentioned earlier, is Tyvek to use as a tire boot. I've found that most commercial tire boots are shit, and I've twice seen the edges on a Park boot cut through tubes run at low pressure (which you do, when you ride where I ride). That said, you could just use a Clif bar wrapper, or any other piece of foil garbage that's laying around. Oh, and I carry with me a radial car tire patch, which you can get at any auto parts store. These are great for fixing big cuts in tires. Just clean out the inside and glue it in, as you would a patch on an inner tube, and it will keep your tire together, and you can often just ride it out.

Anyway, that's a lot of words. I hope some of it was useful

u/nuggggggget · 8 pointsr/wintercycling

Hello! This is my second year bike commuting and I love it! The coldest days of the year in Baltimore look around -15C so it shouldn't be too bad! Things I use/suggest are the following


For you:

Bike helmet cover, something like this to keep in the warmth, but doesnt get too hot

Pair of ski goggles



A pair of cycling only outdoor pants to wear as 'ski pants' over your regular pants like these

Wool socks (Costco has great merino wool ones)


For the bike:


A nice set of lights like these

Bar mitts like these


And just make sure you keep up with cleaning the salt and grime off your bike!


Good luck!

u/ifuckedup13 · 8 pointsr/MTB


$28 and totally worth it. best bang for your buck pedal out there IMO.

u/sigismond0 · 7 pointsr/bicycling

I used these while I was trying to put drops on flats. I eventually just ended up putting actual drop bars on, but these work rather well and are very comfortable.

u/llort_tsoper · 7 pointsr/bicycling

I agree with all of that.

I would just add that bar ends are an economical option for adding more hand placement options to an MTB, without having to swap handlebars/shifters/brake levers.

Most people would opt for a standard bar ends to give you that on-the-hoods/bullhorn hand position. Add a cheap set of foam grips, and install these angled up so that your wrist is straight when riding.

If you want the feel of riding down in the drops, then there are also drop bar ends available. These will require grip tape, and should be installed flat or angled very slightly up.

u/ryth · 7 pointsr/bicycletouring

May want to consider a "fibre fix" spoke. I haven't used one yet, but carry one with me on tour. One of these should do you well enough until you get to a town/city where you can get your wheel fixed.

edit: here's a video of how it works:

u/DopePedaller · 7 pointsr/cycling



The product title portion of the URL can be dropped also if you're going for the shortest link:

u/AWildPenguinAppeared · 6 pointsr/cycling

My first:

Pedals - $50 when I bought at REI 3 years ago

Shoes - $65 when I bought them at REI 3 years ago

Jersey - $30, I absolutely love these cheap jerseys from Amazon, the zipper on the first one I bought finally gave out 3 years later. I will happily spend $30 on a new jersey every couple years.

Shorts - About $40 when I bought, I wouldn't recommend, they are hard to wear for more than an hour. This is one area where I believe it's important to buy nicer materials, especially for long rides. I have Pearl Izumi and Le Col bibs, they are fine but I am still looking for something that works better on long rides. I am trying next.

Let me know if you have additional questions as you get started, I took a relatively budget-minded approached when I jumped in.

u/Newdles · 6 pointsr/cycling

Shimano PD-R540 SPD-SL Road Pedals, cleats included for $35.50. Go to a local performance bike and buy the cheapest shoes that fit, can probably find a pair for about $50. It's still more expensive than $8, but so much better than cages.

u/Gnascher · 6 pointsr/bicycling
  1. Seems you've got that covered.
  2. Hmmm ... big subject. Avoid things that are bigger than you. Avoid things that are pointy and smaller than your tire. Keep the rubber side down.
  3. Lock your bike well if you leave it unattended. This is a nice bike ... I wouldn't lock it up in public much, try and find a "safe" looking bike rack if you must.
  4. Primarily ... wipe it down and keep it clean. Degrease and re-lube your chain every 100 miles or so ... or immediately if riding in rainy/dirty conditions. Measure your chain wear regularly, and replace your chain early to save your cassette and chainrings. Depending upon your bearing types ... headsets, bottom brackets and wheel hubs occasionally need to be torn down and re-lubed ... every couple seasons or so? Depends a lot on your riding conditions.
  5. I know nothing.
  6. I like SPDs. You get at least 90% of the benefit of a "dedicated" road shoe without looking like a deer on ice whenever you get off your bike. I use these. I realized I'll be pilloried by the "Road Shoe Mafia" for this statement.
u/pinkpooj · 6 pointsr/bicycling

Origin 8 makes drop bar ends, kinda like traditional MTB bar ends.

u/AimForTheAce · 6 pointsr/bikecommuting

Prob. the picture needs some explanations. I have a small bag of repair things on the road. It's pretty basic but it's sufficient for most cases.

  1. Spare tube 700x28c-38c. (32c in summer time, 37c in winter.)
  2. Patch kit
  3. The master links (9s, 10s) in the patch kit
  4. Head lamp - quite necessary to fix flat in dark
  5. Topeak Hexus II - includes tire levers and chain tool
  6. USB battery
  7. Short lighting cable
  8. Micro USB cable
  9. Kevler emergency spoke

    My head light - Fenix BC21R - can be powered through Micro USB port, so although I usually carry a spare battery, in real emergency, I can power using USB battery. Obviously, I can also charge the iPhone with lighting cable, if it's dead.

    I hope to not ever use the emergency spoke, so are the master links. But, it should get me out of real sticky situations. If not, I know I can call SOS by my phone and I don't even need to worry about running out of phone juice.

    I keep these in the bag, and put it in my pani along with a pump.
u/Zenigata · 6 pointsr/bikecommuting


I wouldn't recommend those for riding any distance in normal shoes as the clip mechanism is by necessity proud of the platform.

My brother used to have M545s on his hybrid but got rid of them for that reason he's much happier with the M324 pedals he switched to instead. Getting the wrong side some of the time when you set off is preferable to having no right side. The new [A530 looks even better](
) with a really nice big platform on the clip free side.

Personally I'd go for Time Allroad Grippers because I like the float atac pedals give you.

u/ReadySteddy100 · 6 pointsr/MTB

Got the Hellcats for $65 shipped on the Clearance/closeout section of the 5.10 website. $35 shipped for the pedals off of Amazon.


Shimano PD-M530 Mountain Pedals

Shoes (Hellcats)

u/irunxcforfun · 6 pointsr/MTB
u/VanMulk · 5 pointsr/bikewrench

Origin 8 makes clip-on drop bar ends that might suit your needs without having to mess with your shifters or brakes.- and they're only $15.

u/Aun_vre · 5 pointsr/cycling

So /r/bikewrench and /r/bicycling are much more active sub-reddits that you may see more attention on, but I can try to help you out here.

Switching the bars could require a few things:

Stem Size and by extension handlebar size: the Escape has a stem made for 31.8mm diameter handlebars with pretty large bars actually. Most drop bars you find will be 25.4mm at the stem and 23.8mm everywhere else. Any discrepancy can be an easy fix with some shims (either bought or made). It is also possible (according to Sheldon Brown) that your current bars may have very similar sizing to standard drop bars. The stem may also need to be shortened or lengthened to comfortably accommodate for the new handlebars and riding positions.

Braking: As you may or may not have noticed most drop bars come with brake levers that allow you to access the levers while riding on the drops. This is important because it allows you more leverage at the moments when you are going the fastest. Check out this image stolen from 'Lovley Bike' that shows the typical 'breaking on the drops' position.

While it is not necessary to have these brakes and the 'hoods' that accompany them it is an excellent idea and gives more hand positions! Alternatively it is possible to use levers only on the flats of the drop bars (but not the ones you currently have may need the aforementioned shims).

I see the Escape has Shimano M310 trigger shifters. Those also may have to go. They, like the brakes, can be mounted on the flats of the bar but it is only very low end bikes that do this to their riders. There are an ungodly number of ways to incorporate shifting on a bike with drop bars. You can integrate them into the brakes with STI's, stick them on the end of the bars with Bar End Shifters, Get them onto the stem like many vintage bikes Stem Shifters or get them on the down-tube for a classic look Down Tube Shifters...

That aside the only real options up there that you have for a conversion are Bar-end or "Brifters" Brake/Shifters...reusing your old ones could work but it would be inelegant.

Geometry MOST IMPORTANTLY! Your bike was designed to be ridden upright, the stem, top tube, every inch of the bike assumes the rider is using flat bars. There is no telling really what the ride will 'feel' like after you start riding on the hoods/drops. Its not as bad as most hybrids with front suspension but I could not tell you anything about how it might feel once the swap is made.

For moving forward I see a few options

Option 1 Quick and Dirty Get some drop bars and some old cans. Strip your current bars of components and install the drops(don't forget shims), If sheldon is correct about the size of over-sized road bikes all your old components should slide onto the flat part of the drops and just fit. It would be a unique way to ride but mostly functional...Personally I would have concerns about how safe it would be.

Option 2 More hand positions!
If what you want is more hand positions don't overlook bar end attachments:
Bar end attachments
Orgin 8 might actually have the answer to your prayers: Bolt On Drops

Option 3 Dress her like a roadie
Trying to make your hybrid into a road bike is usually not the right way to go but...with $10-30 for bars, and $100 for Shifters and Brakes, plus $10-20 for complete re-cabling across the bike (MTB and Road bikes use different cable ends) and of course labor if you aren't that handy. Tack on $10 for bar-tape to make her pretty and comfortable and you aren't that far in the hole.
You don't get off any easier for Bar Ends once you get the appropriate brakes its about the same. All that and your former hybrid could pass any scrutinizing test of a lycra-clad cyclist, you'd have yourself a certified road-bike. No promises on comfort!

This is just a vague indication though! For a real in-depth price assessment and Q&A please visit your local bike store

For my $00.02...Don't bother trying to convert them. Ride the bike you have the way it was intended to be ridden. If after a while you still feel like its lacking, throw on some bar ends for more hand positions, Still feel like its lacking? Go test-ride some road bikes to see if riding on the drops is right for you. I'm not talking about a test ride around the parking lot either! No less then 3 miles on that sucker, get a real feel for it. Love it!? Sell the Escape and do a TON of research into inexpensive road bikes. They are out there waiting for ya.

u/PsylentStorm · 5 pointsr/bicycling

I'm surprised no one has mentioned the Shimano A530 Pedals. They're dual-purpose pedals meant for road bikes, with SPD pedals on one side, and a platform on the other. The catch is, obviously, that they're not dual side, so you may have to flip the pedal over to use the correct side of the pedal.

I just started going clipless, with these pedals as my first clipless pedals, and I have nothing but good things to say about them. The only catch is that I've been only cycling clipless for a week, so I have limited to experience to base my review on.

u/Devoured · 5 pointsr/bicycletouring

Ive been using these to great success: Shimano A530 Yet another half and half solution.

u/tehallie · 5 pointsr/RagenChastain

> She doesn't even use clipless pedals.

She does, based on pictures of her bike. She runs double-sided: flats on one side, Shimano SPD on the other. I run the same on my bike, but that's because it's not a dedicated racing bike.

u/802bikeguy_com · 5 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

I would just get yourself a locking skewer. Pinhead makes some that are popular.

u/MilkTheFrog · 5 pointsr/bicycling

The big thing about converting to drops is that they can add a lot of reach to your riding position. The second part of this guide can give you a good rough idea of whether you might need significantly more or less reach than you currently have, which you can adjust a little bit with different stems.

Ultimately it's generally a lot of trial and error though. And it seems your bars are already 31.8mm so you might actually be able to use the same stem. At least for now.

I have absolutely no idea how much those origin8 parts would cost you. But you can probably get the bars themselves for less than $40, eg:

The main thing is the width, which largely depends on what sort of bike sizing you have and how big you yourself are, but since you're coming from super wide flats you could probably stick to 44cm regardless. The other difference is shape, which is largely personal preference. Doesn't help you much, but depending on what you want to use the bike for a shorter drop might be more comfortable. And at some point you just have to make the call on what looks most comfortable to you.

Your disc brakes are linear pull, which means it probably wouldn't be a good idea to use normal road levers with them. Tektro do a set of linear pull road levers which would probably be the simplest solution:

Pretty cheap too. Shifting is a little more awkward, as your thumb shifter will probably have a diameter of 22.2mm and modern road bars are generally 23.8mm. But that shifting position itself is generally pretty awkward, yes. Your hand has to move quite the distance from the hoods or the drops to get there, around the bars themselves and often requiring you to change position. Short of using a road lever with a cable pull adjuster or something, which can get quite complicated and isn't generally the best, the best option is probably a bar end shifter. Something like this:

So all in all that'd be around $40 bars, $25 for the levers, $35 for the shifter, $10-15 for some bar tape and maybe $15 for a new set of cables;

Basically something like that plus a new bit of gear cable outer, to cover the distance from the shifter to the first boss on the frame. Probably cheapest and simplest just to get something like that from an LBS. But all in all that'd be around $125-130, if you're lucky and it's comfortable as is. If you need a stem with a different length or angle, probably closer to $150. If you do the work yourself. But for that you could end up with quite a nice gravel/adventure type bike which could turn its hand to endurance road riding, cross riding or touring/commuting quite nicely.

Alternatively you could just get some bar ends, which can help even if your arms are quite spread out. But if you want to get into longer distance riding, you might feel the need to upgrade again before long. Bullhorns can be nice, but often have a lot of the same problems with different diameters, and you still can't brake from that position unless you had TT style levers which I don't think you can get in linear pull. And they'd still need bar tape and such. You can do the research yourself, I just think it'd be a large portion of the investment in an attempt to mimic the riding position of a road bike anyway.

u/ukarmy04 · 5 pointsr/bikecommuting

I've had the bike for a few weeks now and use it almost entirely for commuting. Here's what I've added since I got the bike:

  • GoPro Hero3 Black

  • NiteRider Lumina Micro 350 front and rear

  • Nite Ize HandleBand

  • Tektro CR720 Canti Brakes

  • Ibera PakRak Bicycle Touring Carrier Plus+

  • Avenir Excursion Rack-Top Bag

  • SKS P45 Black Chromoplastic Longboard

  • SRAM Supercork Bicycle Bar Tape (Black)

  • Shimano Brake Cable and Housing Set

  • Shimano Road Shift Cable and Housing Set

    The stock brakes weren't doing enough to stop me so I swapped them out for some Tektro CR720s. I dropped the yoke as far as I could to give myself as much leverage as possible. Braking is much better now and more reliable than the original set ever was.

    I added a rack and trunk bag that's big enough to hold my food and clothes for the day. The only modification I had to make here was filing away some metal from rack mounting leg. It was colliding with frame near the dropout and not allowing the leg to sit close enough to the braze on.

    Some of the original cable housings that came with the bike had some gouges in them so Nashbar sent me a new replacement cable set. I swapped out all the brake/shift cables and replaced the bar tape with some SRAM cork tape. The original cables from Nashbar were also a bit too long and were causing excessive friction.

    I added some SKS fenders per the recommendations of users on this sub. They were a little finicky to install but I got them on in the end. This particular frame doesn't have bolt holes in either of the two rear bridges so I had to resort to the classic zip tie approach.

    As far as the bike goes, it's been performing flawlessly so far. It weighs close to 30 lbs now so it's not the lightest thing in the world. However, the steel frame and the large tires really help smooth out the road quite a bit. The saddle is still the most uncomfortable part of the bike, but I'm hoping to swap it out sometime in the near future. Shifting is still very smooth and the 4 trim positions on the 105 front derailleur is a great feature.

    If you're considering getting a bike from Nashbar, I'd definitely recommend them. Their customer service was fantastic and everything they shipped usually got to me door in 2-3 days (even the bike!).
u/platonicpotato · 5 pointsr/bikewrench

This (brakes) plus this (shifts) comes out under $20.

I find it hard to imagine them any cheaper. A complete set of the black-coated inners costs pretty close to that at most LBSs.

u/[deleted] · 5 pointsr/MTB

Good pedals but for under 100 there's a lot better. Other posters have linked some pretty decent ones. I'll add some saints to the lineup though. They're only about 75 bones.

Edit: looks like they are 59 gold coins on chain reaction right now.

u/unreqistered · 5 pointsr/bikecommuting
u/coloradical710 · 5 pointsr/bicycling
u/sean_davidson · 5 pointsr/MTB

Fooker MTB pedals on Amazon. Race face Chester copies $22

u/otrojake · 4 pointsr/whichbike

I built up a Disc Trucker last spring. I stuck closely to Surly's build in the gearing department as it mainly is a touring bike. I went 9-speed because the chains are a touch more durable and when you get into 10-speed, Shimano's road and mountain offerings start having some incompatibilities. With a 9-speed drivetrain, you can mix and match road and mountain to whatever extent you like.

I actually have two different gearing setups. One for true touring with a mountain rear derailleur and an 11-34 cassette and another with a road rear derailleur and a 12-26 cassette.

Here's relevant parts off my list:

|Crankset|Shimano Deore M590|175mm arm length|Has the trekking gearing 26/36/48 and Hollowtech because why not.|
|Rear cassette|SRAM PG-950|11-34 for touring, 12-26 for commuting|Yes, as far as casettes go, it's a heavy bugger. But when we're talking about LHTs, who really cares overly much about weight? As a side note, you'd need a mountain derailleur to use the 11-34, but you'd be just fine with the 12-26 for your 105.|
|Shifters|Shimano Dura-Ace 9-speed bar-end||If you're using this for touring, I'd recommend the bar ends. Otherwise, get whatever brifters you like, use a couple of Travel Agents and get some V-brakes.|
|Brake levers|Tektro RL520|Long-pull|Those guys are long pull, so they work with V-brakes and mountain-pull disc brakes. Ergonomics are decent, if a tad too pointy for my tastes.|
|Handlebars|Salsa Bell Lap||No longer being produced, sadly.|
|Saddle|Brooks Champion Flyer||I've put thousands and thousands of miles on this saddle. Love it. It's a little heavy if you're doing light commuting. For daily commuting and touring, though, it's hard to beat.|
|Pedals|Shimano M520||They're pretty low on the totem pole as far as component level, but I've had nary a problem with multiple sets. Clipless that won't break the bank.|
|Chain|SRAM PC-951||It's a cheaper chain more than adequate for commuting and touring.|

All the drivetrain stuff is 9-speed, but you can find the 10-speed equivalents rather easily. In your case, if you're not setting off across the country or across the world on your LHT, I'd say go for a set of brifters. If you want to go 9-speed, I'd look for an older set of Ultegra shifters. For 10-speed, I'd keep it 105 or above...or Rival or above for SRAM. SRAM has a lot more tactile feedback on the shifts while Shimano tends to be smoother. I prefer SRAM, but to each their own. Bar-ends are great and low maintenance, but not being able to shift from the hoods can get a little annoying after a while.

As to online retailers, a lot of parts can be had reasonably from Amazon. I also use Jenson USA. They ship fast, have free shipping on orders above $50, and price match on parts. I use Nashbar occasionally, but their shipping department is woefully slow and I avoid buying from them whenever possible.

u/SgtBaxter · 4 pointsr/cycling

Putting on actual drop bars would get expensive, you'd need new shifters and brake levers (if the bike has hydraulic brakes you can forget about it). Not to mention, MTB geometry really isn't set up for drops.

You could however add something like Origin 8 drop ends

Best option would be skinnier more road like tires like Schwalbe Marathons or similar, and a rigid fork to help reduce weight up front. Then it would be a halfway decent flat bar bike.

u/jugglist · 4 pointsr/bicycling

20 bucks, plus you'll want some bar tape.

If you want to brake and shift from the drops, at least 300 more and it'll still suck.

Edit: Also consider clip-on aero bars. You can't brake from those anyway. Otherwise if you want a road bike with drops, sell the one you have (or not - n+1 and all that) and get a caad10 ;)

u/natermer · 4 pointsr/ebikes

Good job.

Now get some brakes!


(for cutting brake cable.. dremel cut off wheel in a ventalated area and a nail or something like that for clearing out the hole. for cutting the actual wire wrap a bit of electrical tape around the end and it'll prevent fraying.)



Once you get some miles on it let us know what sort of range and performance you are getting. Looks like a fun ride.

u/Lolor-arros · 4 pointsr/bikewrench
u/pthu · 4 pointsr/cycling

I've heard of FiberFix repair spokes, but I've never tried one.

u/lavacahacemu · 4 pointsr/cycling

You don't really say where you are and what type of riding you'll be doing but here's my $0.02 on what I've done and would recommend to others.

Clipless Pedals + Shoes --> These are the newer version to what I use on my roadie, but if you want the versatility of the dual clipless or the single+flat on the other side, you can do that. Or you can go with full-road-cleated pedals, of course. For the shoes, try some out at a store, the internet hasn't replaced this step.

Saddle bag -- I err.. duct taped a tube to my seatpost and carry the rest of my crap in my jersey pockets.

Water bottle -- If you ride in extreme weather, consider an insulated bottle, it's sooo nice to fill with iced water and have cool water to dring on 100F+ days

Pump -- I have one that came with a bracket to bolt under the water cages, maybe look for one like it (can't remember the brand of mine)

??? (I have no idea what else I will need) -- you'll need/want:

  • a multitool to adjust or fix anything that can come up. I have the park multitool and I don't really recommend it as there's probably better tools out there for road bike use, just make sure that it has a chain tool included.
  • Tire levers, if they aren't included somehow in the multitool. I always carry one extra so I can have 3 leverage points if I get a flat.
  • With a new bike you might need bottle cages.
  • Get some chain lube if you don't have any.
  • Depending on chain brand, a power link or quick link
  • For patch kits, the park one is pretty much OK but do stay away from the self-adhering ones, they're garbage!
u/pokemeng · 4 pointsr/bicycling

your price is just about right for shoes + pedals. Most new bikes dont come with a pedal so unless you know otherwise about the bike you are getting you will probably need to purchase a pedal and if you are purchasing pedals you might as well purchase shoes :] right? if you give a cyclist a bike, hell want pedals, if you give him pedals, hell want shoes... :P Also im a big fan of just splurging on what you can and enjoying the full package. This is all dependent though on your budget.

this is the pedal i ride on my commuter. its a good dual duty pedal and the platform feels solid. Its a bit bulky so i dont ride it on my nice bike but if your planning on clipping in only sometimes i would suggest this one. If you are planning on riding clipped a majority then i would suggest a pedal without the platform.

Here are the differences in clips. (i think they are called the cleat but i am going to continue calling them the clips)

road clip

road clip shoes notice these have 3 holes where you screw the clip into the shoe in a triangular pattern.

spd clip

spd clip on shoe

notice the spd clip is smaller and recessed. This makes the shoe feel more like a normal shoe and you dont notice the clip as much

road v spd, road on left

road v spd clips and pedals

As a late disclaimer, I have never used road clips but this is the information i gathered in the process of purchasing. Road clipped shoes also usually have a stiffer sole, i believe.

As far as your question goes. I cant imagine long rides anymore without being clipped into the bike. You feel and are more attached to your machine. Your pedaling will most likely be more fluid, you can pull the pedals on the upstroke, your feet wont pop off the pedals on hard shifts letting you pedal through the shifts (something i couldnt do so well without clipless), and you have to learn to trust your bike because your stuck in it :]

That said, I did ride without clipless shoes for quite a while and didnt have any problems but if you asked me to go back now i wouldnt do it. I think if you cant swing a set of shoes and pedals right now, you wouldnt die because of it, but i would suggest investing in them if you are looking to be more serious about riding.

I hope this helps your decision and doesnt make things even more confusing :P

heres my setup for reference.

shoes $100

pedals $70

if your not sure how to use them. You slide the front of the clip in and then start pedaling and push the back of the clip in and it will click in. To get out you twist your ankle away from the bike and the clip will pop out. After i get my pedals i always loosen the spring on the pedal to the loosest setting, then tighten to preference. Looser settings will allow you to still twist your foot side to side while clipped in. Also i think spd clips will give you more side to side play than a road clip.

EDIT: i changes the road clip picture, it was a bit confusing before

u/Right_All_The_Time · 4 pointsr/toronto

Best money you can spend to keep your wheels attached to your bike with no issues.

Trust me. I've had my pinheads on every bike I've owned in the last 8 years - never lost a wheel.

u/machrider · 4 pointsr/bicycling

My setup, which seems to be working reasonably well, is a Kryptonite evolution mini (U-lock) plus these locking skewers for the wheels. No messing with cables or multiple locks. Since the wheels are pretty safely secured to the bike, you only need to lock the frame to something. Still, I wouldn't leave it unattended for days or in a bad part of town.

I like the mini U-lock because of its portability, but it sometimes makes locking up a little difficult - some poles are too big. I'm still happy with that choice though. I also have a little cable and padlock permanently locking the seat to the frame, to deter casual theft of the seat. The little cable could be cut in seconds with the right tool, though.

u/beorn12 · 4 pointsr/mexico

Estos cuestan más pero tienen mejores reseñas, y directo por Amazon Mx

Pinhead bicicleta Locking Skewer Set, 2 Pack

u/devilmonkey507 · 4 pointsr/bicycling

I used a 1” threaded to 1 1/8” threadless adapter. This allowed me to use any modern handlebars. Below is a link to the one I used.

Profile Design Threadless Size Converter (1 - 1/8-Inch)

u/Vpr99 · 4 pointsr/MTB

Last week, I bought the XT Trail PD-M785, which is about half the price ($80 vs $161) of the XTR and only like 10 grams heavier (398 vs 408) and I absolutely adore them. I've been riding clipless for a couple years now and I've used Time's and Crank Brothers mostly and these Shimano's are in a whole different league.

The platform is big enough to give you something to stand on if you want to clip out going down some techy stuff or if you need to do an uphill start. The tension adjust is also a really nice feature so that you can leave them loose when you're just starting out and then tighten the engagement as needed. Those pedals and my dropping seatpost are absolutely the best upgrades I've done to my bike recently.

EDIT: If you're looking for something even more reasonably priced, there are the Shimano PD-M530, which is the same style of pedal, just $40. I'm looking into a pair of these for my girlfriend right now. I haven't ridden them personally, but people say really good things about them.

u/FrauKoko · 4 pointsr/pelotoncycle

The wiki has a great section on shoes n pedals.

Swapping the pedals out is pretty easy. Just be careful to not cross thread. The right and left pedals screw in opposite.

There are a couple of dual clip options in the wiki that have look on one side and spd on the other.

I personally use these and love them.

u/PointlessIndulgence · 4 pointsr/bicycling

Maybe one of Problem Solver's cable hangers might help?

Or one of Origin8/Tektro's hangers that fork mount?

On my piece of shit Fuji Marlboro folding bike, I use the Origin8 fork mounted hanger, and it makes the amount of cable from hanger very short.

u/Crumps · 4 pointsr/cyclocross

This fork mount solved all of my shudder issues. Unless you feel like throwing all sorts of money at the problem I'd suggest you try this first.

u/No-Nrg · 4 pointsr/MTB

I run Shimano Saint Pedals, they take a beating without issue.

Pair them with some 5-10s and the pins hold your feet like glue

u/pazimpanet · 4 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

Looks like a charge spoon

u/bastosboi · 3 pointsr/bikecommuting

On a side note: I also started out with the PD-A530, however switched to double-sided clips (e.g. these PD-M520)

Can only recommend, e.g. when unclipped at a stop light, you don't need to worry about finding the "correct" side, you can just clip in.
No need to look down to and fiddle with the pedals when accelerating in traffic. You can just keep your head up and watch your surroundings (e.g. right-turning vehicles!!).

Short and leisurely rides with normal shoes can also be managed with these double-sided pedals (however, slightly less comfortable than with your suggestion).

u/Pulptastic · 3 pointsr/bicycling


There are other options, but those are the most common, they're cheap, and use the same cleats as the bikes at spin class. You can always upgrade later if you find a reason not to like these; pedals usually come with cleats and most or all MTB cleats use the same 2 bolt mount so they will work with your MTB shoes.

Shoes: go to LBS and try some on. All MTB shoes should be good for walking, but different brands fit differently. Or order online from somewhere with free returns in case they don't fit; the Shimano M-088 are a good start, I love the ratchet buckle.

u/Kashino · 3 pointsr/bicycling

the thumb shifter won't work on drops. flat bar clamp section is 22.2mm, drop bar clamp section is 23.8

You can make it work with the sora STI shifter you listed, the cheaper alternative is the microshift stuff you can buy on ebay (I'd go with second hand shimano stuff though)

Then you'd need new cables

Of course the easier option is to just get bar ends, you can even get drop bar bar ends

u/NewYorkNickel · 3 pointsr/cycling

I have (nearly) the same bike as you (7.4 Firebrand) and ride mine for the same purposes. Lately I've been training for a charity ride and got a pair of these for cheap on Amazon.

The only rub is that you have to also buy adapters for the IsoZone grips so the drop bar ends will fit (~$5). I also got some cork tape from the same company for relatively cheap, altogether making it much cheaper than buying whole new handlebars and shifters.

Also, if you're getting into more fitness riding/training, I couldn't recommend clipless pedals and MTB shoes enough. They've helped with my rides tremendously!

u/sporkfly · 3 pointsr/bicycling

You could get bar end drops instead of changing out your handlebars completely.

u/_CorkTree_ · 3 pointsr/bicycling

This is what I suggest to people when they ask this question. Doing a true drop bar conversion will likely be too expensive to be practical. You had might as well either get some bar-ends like these or just save up for a different bike.

u/amaROenuZ · 3 pointsr/bicycling
  • Mountain bikes tend to only have 1 way to hold the bike. Ditch the grips and get some bar tape, along with some bar ends. Normal bullhorn style ones are fine, but if you really want to step up your game, Origin8 makes some drop-bar attachments that are pretty sweet

  • Clipless pedals aren't for everyone. If they make your feet and knees hurt, don't use em. Simple as that.

  • This could be a matter of posture. If your core isn't supporting enough weight, it can mess up the curvature of your back. That will move strain up onto your upper back and shoulders...right where you're getting the pain.

  • Might be a loose headset. Could be worse a trip to the shop.

  • Knobbly tires are terrible for road riding. Swapping to a smooth road-tread or outright slick tire will improve your bike's grip and acceleration significantly.

  • Getting a fitbit or some other personal telemetry tracker would probably help.
u/bpwnz · 3 pointsr/cyclocross

there's always this option too. $500 vs $20, can't hurt to try.

u/muchosandwiches · 3 pointsr/bicycling

You will need new brakes as well because the Tourney brifters won't pull V-Brakes enough for them to stop. I personally don't recommend that he go this route.

The better route might be:

  • Origin8 Drop Bar Attachments (
  • Keep existing shifters
  • Get Tektro RL520 V-brake drop levers
  • Get Tektro RL740 interrupter levers.
  • New brake cable and cable housing.

    You may not be able to shift from the hood or drops, but you'll have more hand positions.
u/BioKhem · 3 pointsr/bikecommuting

These might be Origin8 Drop Ends from Amazon ( I installed these on my raleigh cadent 1 hybrid and it's great! Offers similar feel to standard drop handlebars without the hassle of actually converting.

u/LukeWarmCage · 3 pointsr/bikewrench

Or get the pads you want with new holders for less

Or equally good (to 6800) 6700 sets for $10

Or any of the dozens of generic "ultralight" holders on eBay for $9.

u/nowhere3 · 3 pointsr/bikewrench

You need the appropriate holder for your brakes.

For lots of Shimano/Shimano-type road brakes, that's this one:

u/Cal_Lando · 3 pointsr/chibike

I hear kool stops are pretty awesome. I know Comrades sells them and Amazon has them listed for roughly the same cost as those first ones.

u/LMGDiVa · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

If you're looking for better brakes but can't go with discs, there's large contact patch soft compound ones you can get.

Like this:

These have a 25% larger contact patch, and they're softer than most stock brakes. They'll grip the rim much harder.

These are also pretty good albiet more expensive:

BTW you only need these for the front, because when the front gets more stopping power, its super easy to lock up the rear wheel.

u/ultimatekiwi · 3 pointsr/bicycletouring

sixsixsex already hit the nail on the head. However, thought I'd just make note of a fairly obvious point which is: Don't bring tools you don't know how to use! On tour isn't really a great time to learn how to use tools. And if you can't use it then it's just dead weight.

If your wheels are true and not particularly weak, you really should be fine with a pump/spare tube/patch kit/allen keys. Maybe a fiber-spoke if you're worried about your wheel breaking a spoke?

Err on the side of slightly too much food. Since this is a shorter trip you should be totally fine, but it really sucks to be 30 miles from anywhere and realize that you have absolutely no food. Super shitty. Same with water, although it's possible to find streams, etc.

Good questions.

u/TylerJ86 · 3 pointsr/bicycletouring

This seems like a simpler solution to me than bringing extra tools. Haven't used one but I carry it and I've heard lots of good things.

u/P-Tricky · 3 pointsr/whichbike

Sounds to me like you'll be after either a cyclocross/gravel grinder bike or a commuter. Both styles have clearance for wide 700c tires and (usually) mount points for racks and fenders, which are invaluable commuting accessories. The cyclocross/gravel bikes have drop (road style) bars, while the commuters have flat (mountain style) bars. Both are equally at home on pavement or gravel roads, but will struggle with true mountain biking.

Here are a bunch of new commuter bikes for ~$500:

u/viniciusah · 3 pointsr/whichbike

SHIMANO PD-A530 SPD Dual Platform Bike Pedal

Almost 2 years ago, and not much wear and tear (except for some falls while learning to clip in and out LOL)

u/jjarmoc · 3 pointsr/cycling

For first clipless pedals, I like the Shimano PD-A530s. They’re SPD so you can walk in the shoes easily, and have clipless on one side with flats on the other so you can ride in sneakers occasionally.

I have them on my hybrid so I can go with whatever shoes I’m wearing for commutes, rides with the kiddo, etc. I still have the option to go clipless on that bike if I want using the same shoes as my road bike and its PD-M520L pedals.

Shimano PD-A530 SPD Dual Platform Bike Pedal

For shoes I have Shimano SH-CT71 which I like just fine.

Shimano 2015 Men's Recreational Cycling Shoes - SH-CT71L (Black - 41)

This kind of setup is about $100, so it’s within your budget. I’m not sure what more you’d get for the extra money really..

u/mfryan · 3 pointsr/bicycling

i have some hybrid pedals. they are shimano spd and are flat on one side. my daily commute is about 1 mile, so it is really not worth putting the bike shoes on, but when i ride for pleasure i like to go 10-20 miles. then it is worth it.

My pedal setup.



u/seattlebikeman · 3 pointsr/bikecommuting

SPDs are incredibly easy to unclip and you can do it using right or left rotation without even thinking about it. You can also just slam your foot onto the pedal and click in immediately.

I used to ride on SPD-SLs and while I think they are slightly better for long rides, I ditched them entirely and only use SPDs now. Not only can I walk around normally, but they are basically just as good and now I don't have to even think about clipping/unclipping.

I commute about 30 miles daily in dense urban to suburban areas, so while downtown in the big city I'm stopping/starting constantly. Can't imagine not having clipless, especially for hopping curbs/potholes/road debris. Just so much more control and besides, every time I've crashed I've popped out of them automatically.

Give it a try, dude. You don't need to wait for a new bike, just get a set of pedals/cleats for $50. You can even get dual SPD/platform pedals if you want maximum flexibility (I had a set but got rid of them because I never used the platforms).

u/benben555 · 3 pointsr/bicycling

I have a set of Shimano PD-A530 on my Salsa Vaya that I use daily for commuting (platform) and longer rides on the weekend (SPD).

I really like them, they have not failed me after 2000 miles and are a solid feeling pedal. Even though they do not have the more 'spikey' surface on the platform side I have yet to have my feet slide off even in the wet. It may be a smidge out of your price range, but honestly it was for me as well, but I do not regret it one bit!

The big thing to keep in mind with dual pedals is will you be able to easily flip them to the side you need. With the A530s the SPD side is always on top in it's equilibrium position which means I don't have to look down to find the side I want. I just reach for the pedal with my foot and either clip in, or flip the back of it forward to get to the platform side.

Personally I think the design of the pedals you are looking at would make it really hard to determine which side of the pedal you are on. But, just like everything if you get used to it I'm sure it will work great. It all comes down to personal preference I guess!

u/jeremiahs_bullfrog · 3 pointsr/bikecommuting

Is this the one you're talking about, or do you mean the A530 or the M324? It looks to me like the M530 is dual sided clipless, but there's only one picture in Amazon, so I can't be sure.

I'm considering getting clipless pedals, but I also like riding to the grocery store or park and it doesn't make sense to change shoes.

u/toum112 · 3 pointsr/bicycling

Congrats on the new bike! My SO just picked up that same model yesterday.

Look at Pinhead locking skewers for the wheels. I doubt you'll have to worry about the seat unless you in a really high-risk area, it's not a quick release collar so the seat/seatpost won't be easy to steal.

u/Poppejans · 3 pointsr/bicycling

or keep using your old fork with an adapter like this:

u/grem75 · 3 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

These work great on my Astro branded one, 2 of them for $12.

u/AnythingButSue · 3 pointsr/MTB

I recently picked up some SPD pedals (these specifically) and absolutely love them. Two things to make sure of from my experience:

  1. Make sure you get shoes that fit you perfectly. It took me a few different types of shoes and a few sizes to find the ones that work well for me.

  2. PRACTICE CLIPPING AND UNCLIPPING BEFORE YOU GO RIDING! It'll only take a few embarassing tip overs to figure out what you're doing, but you can save those by spending 10-15 minutes holding on to a fence post or something repeatedly clipping in and out.

    I love them, and I find that I'm more willing to take on sketchier terrain. Plus I feel like I could jump over a house now. So there's that.
u/newname66666 · 3 pointsr/Fitness

I had shimano on both of my bikes. That's as far as I can go for recommending something. They both lasted without issue, and the shoes lasted thousands of miles as well. Shimano makes good stuff. I wouldn't spend more than like 50-60 bucks. Unless you're going for super light weight on a road bike.

[these are what I had on my mountain bike, and they were great, and would work for a commuter or road bike as well] (

u/FalseBuddha · 3 pointsr/cyclocross
u/phtcmp · 3 pointsr/whichbike

That’s a great bike and should be well suited for what you want to do. After several years loving our FX4 Sports, my wife and I wanted to go to drop bars to ride further more comfortably, and just upgraded to a Domane SL6, and a Checkpoint SL5. The bike you’re looking at is directly comparable to the Checkpoint: 105 drivetrain, carbon frame with single iso speed. It’s a great frame and solid component set. My only negative on our FXs was the tires: stock were 28s, and I always felt they were a little narrow for my comfort, but with caliper brakes, I never switched them out, although they’re pretty worn now and I will bump them to something fatter. The Domane came with 32s that the guy I got it from had upgraded to Hard case AW3s. Much more solid feeling width. Durability wise too early to tell. I also switched them up for 35s to run gravel. The Checkpoint runs 40s and they feel great. If you are changing the tires anyway, I’d personally go as wide as the frame will take if you are riding rough pavement.

EDIT: for pedals, the Domane came with these Platform Pedals that the previous owner installed, and I like them. I also have some Chester Race Face pedals on a mountain bike that are good, and some Shimanos that have platform on one side reversible with clipless. As for other upgrades, a really good lock, that bike is going to draw a lot of unwanted attention.

u/aliasesarestupid · 3 pointsr/MTB

I use shimano saints which are not as big as I'd like them to be, but they are fantastically grippy with these shoes. The impacts are definitely a little bit heavier than the maltese falcons but they're also built to be more durable and they're quite a bit larger. I don't really feel their weight is an issue. It's something I don't even think about while I'm riding. If you're not worried too much about hitting your ankles you can't go wrong with the lows.

u/Gbone3215 · 3 pointsr/dhmtb
u/FFJosty · 3 pointsr/fatbike

Love these! Hold up amazingly well with adjustable studs. Bearings have been taking a beating for two years and I'm 200lbs.

Shimano Pd-Mx80 Platform Pedals

u/hewasajumperboy · 3 pointsr/bikewrench

I was gifted the Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repair at a bike shop I used to work at. Fantastic reference book, good descriptions, good photos. That and/or youtube are good places to learn maintenance.

Now, on to your bike...

>All the spokes are pretty much completely rusted

Stop there, new wheels are required. Determine if they're 700c or 27" the tire should tell you this info, if you can read it. On the subject of new wheels, I'd also recommend new tires/tubes as they've probably sat through the rusting phase.

>rear brake squeaks like crazy and you really have to pull it to get it to work

New brake pads. The current ones are most likely dried out, err on the side of caution here, brakes will literally save your life (Don't listen to Premium Rush on the topic).

>Rear tire slides against rear brake hindering movement slightly

Brake pad adjustment necessary. Will happen when replacing pads.

>Chain and rear derailer seem to be in good shape

Close up pictures required. You could probably just get a chain cleaner, hopefully the "black greasy stuff" protected the chain from corrosion. Rear and front derailleurs could probably benefit from a healthy application of triflow at the joints.

>Brake cables are rusty, definitely need to be replaced

Right on the money here. New cables and housings. Triflow the shifters for good measure. Replace if they don't work after new cables/housing.

>The gear changer on the left handle bar doesn't work

Triflow trick from above, let it soak for like an hour. Do you still hear "clicks" when you press it? Are the paddles stuck? If your answers are no and yes (respectively), replace anyway.

Lastly, if you take the chain off, how smoothly do the cranks spin? "Stuttering" cranks sometimes mean your bearings and/or races are pitted. New bottom bracket probably isn't a bad item to add to the list, the Shimano UN57 (or similar) are relatively inexpensive and will probably outlast the next apocalypse.

It probably can't hurt to put a wear indicator on the chain and cassette to ensure they are still good to go. This could cause for some harder to diagnose issues down the road for home mechanics if they do need replacing. Chain wear indicators are easy to use, cassette wear indicators require a little more finesse and practice.

If in doubt, grease. You can't go wrong with a little more grease on the moving parts on this bike.

u/bk7j · 3 pointsr/bikecommuting

I'm in Pittsburgh, which has less snow, but plenty of cold. For that part, it's a matter of finding the right combination of layers for your cold needs and covering exposed skin. I wear generic-brand buffs over my ears and face, and then good windproof gloves under a set of barmitts. And then I have a commute with plenty of hills to help me warm up. When everything is right, I've been pretty comfortable riding down to about 0-5F.

Falling snow isn't so much of an issue except that I will add clear goggles, otherwise going downhill will involve thousands of little pieces of ice jabbing into your eyes, which sucks. Fresh snow on the ground, up to an inch or so, is usually fine, but will make pedaling a little harder. Packed snow will make it much harder, but doesn't really hurt traction much so it's usually ok, until you find ice.

Ice on the ground is more challenging, and occasionally will make me sit a day out. However, my rule of thumb is that if the streets are plowed enough for cars to drive, then they are clear enough for me to ride, and that's the case way more frequently than not (in my city). If there is too much ice for that, then I don't trust ANYBODY out there and I'd rather walk/bus/stay home. Other options to deal with ice include getting studded tires or something with bigger tires (I have friends who commute on fatbike in the winter).

The final issue is that winter weather will play havoc on your bike's moving parts. You'll want to get it cleaned and lubed WAY more frequently than in the summer, especially if you get snow/ice on your chain.

u/sausagebody · 3 pointsr/bicycling

I would look into things like barmits
Good set of safety lights
Face masks, wind breakers, bike rack and panniers.
Get anything that will make riding in any weather or condition comfortable.
Patch kit, tools, or spare tubes always good to have extra.

u/kimbo305 · 3 pointsr/bicycling
u/hoodyhoomofo · 3 pointsr/bicycling

These guys did the math:

Basically, it's not more efficient overall, but it will give you more power over short distances like on climbs or sprints.

Doesn't matter for most people unless you want your foot in exactly the same spot each time. I kind of like being able to move my foot around and not being obligated to wear a certain kind of shoe each time I ride.

Also, there are many different kinds of platforms if you go that route. I like these:

Would probably get these if I did it again, much cheaper:

u/teholbugg · 3 pointsr/MTB

just get these pedals for $30

free shipping w/ prime or order over $35

u/MoBongoFury · 3 pointsr/MTB

I bought these and love them:

Wellgo MG-1 Magnesium Pedal

u/MrWalnuts · 3 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

Firstly, congrats on the ride! Keep it up!

I have the same bike (color and everything) so I can offer a few tips for the new(ish) rider with this rig. Treat it well and you will be happy with it for a long time. I have over 1200 miles on this bike.

First, as everyone has said, foot retention. I have the Pure Fix straps from amazon. If you can swing it I suggest upgrading the pedals as well when you buy retention. I have a nice slim platform from fyxation. About $25 but you can get something better than what is on that bike starting around $12 on up.

2nd, Seat. Keep doing 40+ mile rides and you will quickly realize the stock seat has to go. I have a charge spoon I paid around $26 for. Non-bike friends tell me how uncomfortable my seat looks and I tell them that you should see the original seat that came with the bike! I love the charge.

You see the black streaks from your brake pads on your wheels? Eventually that will cause a streaking noise that is horribly embarrassing if anyone is within a one hundred yard radius. It will also stop like shit. I taped off the rim and sanded the paint off of that edge, then replaced the pads with a really nice pad/shoe from amazon for about $10 a set. No noise, no black marks on the rim and nice braking.

Tires. Keep an eye out for a nicer set of tires. The stock ones will get the job done for a while but they are cheap. Keep an eye out on or or wherever. I picked up a set of Vittoria slicks online somewhere for around $16 each and it was a world of difference.

I did replace the brake levers but I broke one of the stock ones. The stock levers are cheap but no rush to replace them if you dont need to. Again, there are a ton of better options out there starting at around $15 when you are ready to upgrade.

I also replaced the bar tape but it was mostly because I was not happy with my install. The stock tape is fine.

I hope this helps a bit. I just wanted to show cheap bikes like this can get a lot of flack round these parts but a few reasonably priced upgrades can make this a nice bike that lasts you a long time.

Here is a few shots of mine. Disregard the blue bottle cage, its on there from a 50 miler i did a few weeks ago. my bike

u/akerzee2 · 3 pointsr/xbiking
u/AdmiralAckbar86 · 3 pointsr/mountainbiking

I would recommend some Fooker pedals from amazon.****

I am pretty sure they are made from the same factory as Race Face chesters as i have both and can't tell any difference besides the logos. I have been using them for awhile now and they have held up great and they are only 20 bucks.

u/linux_vegan · 3 pointsr/MTB

People may frown upon this, but you can get knockoff Raceface Chester's on Amazon. I haven't had any issues with them.

FOOKER MTB Bike Pedal Nylon 3 Bearing Composite 9/30 Mountain Bike Pedals High-Strength Non-Slip Bicycle Pedals Surface for Road BMX MTB Fixie Bikesflat Bike

Real Chester's aren't expensive either. RaceFace Chester Pedal Black, One Size

u/AttackJacks · 2 pointsr/pelotoncycle

Swapping pedals isn’t difficult, but would definitely be a tedious chore to do on a regular basis. One of the first things I did when I got my bike this past weekend was swap the pedals out for some Shimano SPD-SL pedals. They’re not very expensive and work great on the bike, but your mileage may vary.

As with all bike components there is a strong correlation between weight and price, the lighter an item the more it costs. If you decide to go the pedal route, don’t buy something top of the line. The weight doesn’t matter on a stationary bike like it does in an Ironman.

Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

Here’s a link to those pedals if you’re interested:

Shimano SPD-SL PD R-540 - Black

u/bikesandrocks · 2 pointsr/BikeShop

If you have SPD-SL, then this will do the trick:

They come in white, and the white ones are Prime eligible. I have the 105's, but they are more expensive and only come in carbon these days.

Also, any Shimano pedals you buy will come with cleats, so as long as you get some pedals that support the three bolt pattern, you'll get cleats.

u/cshoe · 2 pointsr/BikeShop

I have these brand new and still in the box.

PM your address and I'll send them to you.

Edit: Might not be the style you're looking for...

u/Domesteader · 2 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

Well it depends on what you want them for. For pure performance, power-transfer, and security, I would say SPD-SL. The downside is that you can't really walk around with SPD-SL cleats. I use these on my road bike and for long (all-day) rides on my fixie. For general everyday riding, I use SPD (mtb) pedals and DZR shoes. MTB pedals don't lock in as tight and have more float than road pedals. DZR shoes are easier to walk around in than most cleats, and better looking, but not as stiff as other shoes.

u/partard · 2 pointsr/cycling

I just got some Shimano SPD-SL Pedals - PD-R540

And some Pearl Izumi shoes.

I like the Pearl Izumi jerseys and shorts that I have so I stayed with that brand.

Only put 40 miles on them this weekend, but they seem nice.

u/aggieotis · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Lots of us commuters use SPD shoes and pedals. You don't have to, but they're pretty nice. The shoes you'll have to check out for yourself as every foot is different, but I would recommend the Shimano M520 as a great and cheap starter pedal.

I'm not a big fan of campus pedals (one side flat, other side clip), but some folks are. If you really want the best of both worlds I think you'll be better off with something like the Shimano M424.

u/Quadralingual · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I just bought biking shoes (Shimano with SDP compatibility). I was hoping for some advice on which pedals to get. I'm looking at lower/cheaper end pedals (such as this one, another one, or another, or finally this one).

I have a road bike, and am looking for double sided pedals that I can use with both my clip in shoes and my regular shoes. Do you have any advice?

Thanks in advance :)

u/red_tide_clams · 2 pointsr/MTB

2011 Salsa El Mariachi. List of specs here. The only upgrade I made was clipless pedals. I love this bike and I'd be happy to answer any questions about it though I admit I'm a bit of an MTB newb.

u/WWJBTPC · 2 pointsr/bicycling

People downvote me because I'm a little weird, but some of these are good, they have the capacity of being clipless, but still having the option of using regular shoes if you feel like it. If you want to save the weight and use only clipless these are good, they're simple clipless pedals, both are rather inexpensive, and if you feel like spending more money

u/dubbl_bubbl · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Last year I got my first "real" bike and decided to take the plunge and get some clipless pedals, after about 2k miles I will never look back. A friend in the cycling industry recommended Shimano SPD pedals, they are cheap and easy to exit, (road specific pedals and shoes tend to be more expensive) and also tend to have a recessed cleat. I have Shimano shoes they are comfortable, and relatively inexpensive (as far as bike shoes go) you might be able to find some better deals on nashbar or other sites like that though.

I am about to order some Shimano PD-A520 which is more of a touring pedal, it has a bigger platform which will reduce hotspots on long rides (which wasn't a problem until recently, probably due to shoe wear.) You may also want to check out these which give you the choice to use clipless shoes or just regular shoes.


u/oCLiFFx · 2 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle
u/Camelope · 2 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

Yeah I got some on sale and I had to buy barrel-ended brake cables and housing to run them through. It's not an entirely complicated process, but it is a bit of work. I liked my bullhorns but now I'm switching back to the drops that came on it / my new track drops just to spice things up. Fixed/track/singlespeed bikes are all very simple to maintain, so it's not too hard to learn to work on it if you don't mind getting your hands dirty from time to time.

u/geronimo2000 · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I use cane creek TT200 with cantilevers and have no issues

u/thogervo · 2 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

I have mine on the ends, as I spend the most time in that position and I live in a sort of hilly place that requires a bit of braking.

Aesthetically, placing them next to the stem is the best way to go, plus it's a little easier to mount and feed the cable through.

If you do decide to mount the levers on the ends, I reccommend the Cane Creek 200TT levers. Be warned however, they use mountainbike "barrel style" brake cables.

Happy riding!

u/cassinonorth · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting

This get's brought up all the time and I've done extensive research on the topic when I had a Sirrus that wasn't getting the job done anymore. Yeah...don't do this. It's physically feasible but not advised for a bunch of reasons. In terms of your hands going numb, you need a fit. I'm guessing your arms are totally locked out when you're riding leading to the numbness. You'll get more out of the bike from a proper fit than you would trying to convert it to drop bars.

If you really want to keep your bike and not go full drop bars, grab bar ends like these and retape your bars. You won't have access to your brakes from the drops which is obviously a very huge downside of this plan so be careful if you do.

u/PrimeEvilBeaver · 2 pointsr/bicycletouring

If you can slip something on the existing bars these might work for you:

Origin8 Drop Ends

u/Bearduardo · 2 pointsr/bicycletouring
u/ninja_snail · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I found these! But they have been noted to be uncomfortable and small on a 7.3 fx.

u/weil_futbol · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Because your shifters won't likely be compatible. I've asked the same thing before.

These are in my wish list but I don't know how good they are,

Butt you might want to look into buying a road bike. You can get a low end bike starting at 600.

u/Always_Late_Lately · 2 pointsr/wintercycling

Depends on how long your daily ride is. For me, I just go with my leather coat and an extra layer, nice windproof gloves (windproof and waterproof is a huge plus) and some nice toasty (wool, stays warm even when wet) socks with an extra pair for when I get where I'm going. Helmet with a toque and my snowboard goggles on extra cold/windy/snowy days.

As for the bike, I ran continental gatorskins for the past 2 years with minimal problems. Just make sure to not go too fast into a turn and always keep an emergency line open. There are, of course, winter specialized/spiked tires that would give you more grip but I guess it depends on choice.

Important note: brakes. The normal compound you use for regular spring/summer/fall riding won't work. It freezes and loses all grip. Invest the $30 in a the winter specialized pad packs (these are the ones I used and found a huge improvement over the stock shimano pads in cold weather, but any cold-weather specific pads should work well) and actually retain stopping power when it gets cold, makes a huge difference.

u/UrbanGabe · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Also, these are the Kool Stop Dura Ace pad holders that I was talking about. They should work with your old brakes:

u/lexicon993 · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Kool stop dual compound brake pads


Kool stop salmon brake pads

You need the right pads for all weather conditions if you are riding in the rain. Especially heavy rain.

Regular black brake pads are truly for DRY conditions only.

Dual compound is for both. Salmon is for mostly wet.

Give a pair of these a try and not only will you have the best and strongest rim braking you've ever had, you'll have the best all-weather performance there is for rim brakes. It is absolutely worth the money and one of the best bike upgrades you can do for a rim-brake bicycle.

Make sure to toe in brakes to avoid squeaking and you're golden.

If this is for a commuter bike and rain happens here and there, this is a necessity for safety, not a luxury. The right brakes are just as necessary as a helmet.

3 out of my 4 bikes have rim brakes and these are the only pads I use or recommend. Getting the toe in correct for squeaking is a thing, but other than that they are the best brakes out there for rims. Hands down. Especially for rain and snow.

u/bran_donger · 2 pointsr/MTB

You're in the same boat as me! Kinda.. I ride a 2003 Giant NRS3, my first ever bike and likely the only bike I'll own for quite a while.

Granted it's a full suspension, not a hard tail, but from what I've found, it's pretty hard to do little upgrades to such old frames. When I wanted to replace the fork, RockShox only had two new offerings with rim brake compatibility, otherwise I would've had to buy disc compatible hubs which would've been much more expensive. There wasn't much selection left for rear shocks either, and most tire manufacturers have moved their best stuff away from 26" wheels.

Basically, with these older bikes, there really isn't much choice left in terms of making them nearly as competitive as modern bikes.

I've bought wider bars, a shorter stem, new grips, new pedals, new tires, and new brake pads, and that's just about the most you'd be able to do with most of these old frames in terms of changing your riding experience.

If you're looking for better brakes though, these have worked great for me. Converting to discs was way out of my budget, and these are much more powerful than standard pads.

u/tomcatx2 · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Ah! Yes. Then you need brake pads for v brakes, linear pull brakes.

Kool-Stop Dual Compound Mountain Pads for Linear Pull Brakes Threaded,Black/Salmon

Anything like this. Personally, i like the pads that have removable inserts. They arent that much more and replacing shoes are a lot easier since you dont have to muck with positioning.

Kool Stop Bicycle V-Type Holder with Brake Pads (Dual Compound)

Velo orange make a set. Clarks. Avid. Really any brand has a decent product like this.

u/CarbonAltered · 2 pointsr/bmx

if they are stock brake pads i suggest replacing them , stock pads suck . Kool-Stop makes bitchen brake pads

i use these


also make sure you ajusted the brakes right so they both bite at the same time

park tools does a good job explaining it

u/kwaaaaaaaaa · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I carry a spare "spoke" which is this repair kit w/ a kevlar string to apply tension where there's a missing spoke. It's better than doing a temporary truing job (which can risk other spokes breaking) and it''ll work on most wheels instead of only having your own spoke size/type (good for when a stranger/friend breaks theirs).

Another "you never know when you'll need it" thing is a universal derailluer hanger. Which is funny because I'm kind of a prepared guy and thought it will be one of those things I'll never ever use but have peace of mind. The very next day that it came in the mail, I ended up using it on a stranger's bike.

Edit: this is it

u/boredcircuits · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Doesn't help you now, but something handy for next time.

This is a trick long-distance touring cyclists use, as a broken spoke for them will strand them in the middle of nowhere. Basically, it replaces a spoke for emergency situations. You don't need tools to install it, though removing the old spoke can be a trick if it's on the rear wheel.

For your current situation, I would avoid riding the bike. If you really have to ride, remove the broken spoke (or wrap it around or tape it to an adjacent spoke). Adjust adjacent spokes to get it close to true, and maybe open the rear brake so that it doesn't rub.

Definitely treat it gingerly while you ride. Go slow, avoid potholes and curbs. Stay in the saddle. The more spokes on that wheel, the better the chances you'll have of the wheel turning out OK in the end.

The good news is that broken spokes are generally cheap and easy to replace. If it's a front wheel, all you need is a spoke wrench and a replacement spoke. If it's a rear wheel, you'll need the tools to remove the cassette (lockring remover and chain whip). My LBS charges about $20 or $25 to fix a spoke.

The bad news is that the LBS might take some time to fix the wheel. You might need to bribe the mechanic to get the job done while you wait, or expect to take other transportation in the meantime.

u/winkers · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting

The one thing that I almost never see in people's tool bag is an emergency spoke replacement. It weighs almost nothing, will not 'go bad' in your bag after years, and will save you if you break a spoke miles from home. It saved my butt on a couple of long rides through the years.

u/micro_cam · 2 pointsr/MTB

I don't do enduro's but I do a lot of remote mountain riding. Generally I try to carry as little as possible, about what you list for rides near the road. If i'm somewhere remote i'll pack like a climber or hiker and bring some light weight variant of "the 10 essentials" so I won't die if I get lost or injured.

Extra clothes take up a lot of space for not much weight. I often like to carry a warm layer like a patagonia nano puff pullover and a wind shell to wear on long descents. I figure these are my "maybe i won't freeze to death if I injure myself and have to spend the night out layer" and their also nice if you decide to take a lunch break on a windy ridge or something.

Your repair kit looks pretty good you could get one of these and maybe some chamois butter.

Maybe a non CO2 (ie reusable) pump like a leyzene alloy drive (high volume hand pump that might be able to set a tubless tire). This lets you both deal with multiple flats and adjust tire pressure for different surfaces.

Maybe a half used roll of athletic tape (ie minimalist first aid kit).

A couple of spare energy bars and tablets for water purification are also nice if you're going somewhere remote.

A sunglass case with swappable lenses for your glasses or a pair of clear/light glasses+ normal sunglasses is also nice for variable light.

A light headlamp like a petzl tika is nice 'just in case.'

u/CreatineBros · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Assuming you can get the cassette off, you'll be ready for anything. If you really want to be ready for anything, throw one of these in your bag. Or, alternatively, you can carry one of these to get your cassette off in a pinch, and back on.

u/SirTwitchALot · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I wrap my tube in an old sock. It helps protect it a little and also gives me something to use as a rag.

I also carry an emergency spoke

u/rfrick · 2 pointsr/cycling

I've got Shimano M324 on my Giant Defy Disc. Running them with Gito Treble II 2014's. They aren't the most racey, but whatever. I can clip in when I want and ride around the hood in some tenni's. I dig them. You may want to check out Shimano A530. I've heard the A530's can be slick.

u/Ogroat · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Here are a couple to get you started.

If you want to ride the same bike clipless and then with street shoes, something like that is the way to go.

u/leadnpotatoes · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Maybe something like these so you don't have to swap the pedals.

u/FlagBattery · 2 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

no, those are MTB pedals, not road pedals. see my list in this thread for some compatible shoes. these are good pedals if you intend on sometimes riding with shoes that don't have cleats in them. Since they are flat on one side and clipless on the other side. And the flat side is wide enough to be comfortable and keep your feet secure as well.

u/reidburial · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I'd recommend the Shimano A530 pedals, they're pretty great imo and got plenty of good reviews, you got SPD on one side and platform on the other when you don't feel like using your cycling shoes.

u/kaceFile · 2 pointsr/bicycling

> The ideal scenario is to have a big club where you can find a group that goes at the pace you want, but in most places your options will be limited. Perhaps start by practicing your group riding skills with a slow group, then go with a fast group and accept that you might get dropped.
The average guy on a Saturday or Sunday morning doesn't care about the gender makeup of the group but does want to get a good workout. They won't mind if they have to wait for you for a few minutes after designated sprints, but if you can't keep up at a normal cruising pace then it's better to wave goodbye.

Oh, totally! I completely understand that. There are some bike shops that have group rides of various levels, but that's about it. Not too many clubs (other than casual ones) around here that I've been able to scope out. But, maybe I'll check out the casual ones to learn some etiquette-- that sounds like a good idea!

>Consider getting started on clipless soon, since clipping in and out quickly is a key group riding skill. Other than that, all you really need is the equipment to repair a puncture (bring a spare tube, not just glue and patches) and the right clothes, including gloves and glasses.

Rodger that! I'll probably get clipless in a month or so. Do you have an opinion on THESE? I want to have the option of using my bike to commute-- so I don't want to commit solely to clipless.

>Sounds like you're on the right track. See if you can bump up to 3 days per week training as this will really help. And if you're only doing short workouts make them count. Towards the end of winter you should be doing some tough interval sessions.
When you have an opportunity to race in the spring, just dive in. Crits are great fun if you can keep your cool when people are riding very close to you. Don't worry about poor results at the beginning.
Women's racing often has small fields or mixed fields, so a lot of races break up. Just keep hammering away.
And if you get a chance, have a go at individual time trialling. It's either the most boring form of racing or the truest, depending on your philosophy on life.

Yeah! I think they have open studio time, so I'm hoping to get in a 3rd training session during the week by myself (I just don't have the cash at the moment to pay for the 3x/week program ;( And biking outside isn't an option here in the winter-- though if the weather holds up like how its been: We might skip winter entirely!)

Re: Racing-- Oh I plan to! The first one is in April, so I'm planning on doing one per weekend (if possible), before the BIG tour comes in June. Provided I finish all of the races I participate in, I think I'd be able to compete in those as a Cat 4!

u/gwarster · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting

Use what I got they give you the best of both worlds.. You can either click-in or use platforms.

u/PM_ME_YOUR_LADY_BITS · 2 pointsr/bicycletouring

Cool shoes! As far as pedals go, I'd get a combo pedal with one clipless side and one flat side. That way, if you decide to use normal shoes it still works. Or if your legs/feet start hurting after hours of keeping them in the exact same position on a clipless, you simply flip the pedal and enjoy some freedom of movement on the flat side.

I have one pair of these pedals on a MTB, and I don't really like them. They weigh the same on each side, so they never flip to one side by themselves. When you start pedaling you never know which side will be up.

I'd much rather get something like this, because they will always orient themselves with the right side up. I don't have experience with those pedals in particular, but I've got some almost identical ones made by Exustar and I like them a lot (couldn't find them on amazon though).

u/mrandyclark · 2 pointsr/pelotoncycle

The R530s are on sale for $39.99 on Performance:

Pretty sure these are the pedals I have on my Peloton, $29.99 on Performance:

And these are the pedals I have on my cross/town bike. They have a platform on the flip side, $42.45:

The clip for the SPD style cleats is smaller - much smaller and harder to clip into than the LOOK style. But once you get used to it, they are really easy. Overall, I'm glad I made the switch.

u/CarbonTrebles · 2 pointsr/PuertoRico

Para asegurar la bici, consigue un U-lock con una cadena gruesa, ó dos U-locks. El link te dice dónde y cómo se colocan, pues si no lo haces bien estarías invitando a que te la roben.

Para asegurar las ruedas y el asiento, se le pueden instalar unos skewers parecidos a éstos que traen una llave especial. Debes averiguar los tamaños para tu bici.

Lo más importante es que la bici sea fea :) Así no llama la atención.

u/thoughtscientist · 2 pointsr/torontobiking

Cool find. $40 with the risk of getting hit with 15% duty though. A 2 wheel set of Pinheads can be found at for roughly the same price:

u/sporobolus · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

lots of choices, all of them a matter of degree — [Pinhead skewers]( are one the better "locking" skewers; i use one on my front wheel, but i realize people with tools can defeat them

u/Sumpm · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

If there's nothing wrong with your fork, and you'd like to keep using it, you can get a threadless/quill adapter (like this) and use it with a modern stem.

u/seangoesoutside · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Velo orange has one thats really expensive but there are $25-30 options on ebay and Amazon.


Or get an adapter to run a modern stem for much cheaper

u/geaton22 · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Just a replacement cable kit. It will come with the metal nipples for the ends and even some cable housings but most likely you can just re use your current cable housings.

Just as an example.

u/we_can_build_it · 2 pointsr/DIY

I am not quite sure. I found this on Amazon and should be what you are looking for!

u/woodworkasaurus · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting

LHT Frame - $520 after tax

Chukker Wheels - $85 x 2

Tires Schwalbe Marathon Plus RLX 700 x 45 C Bicycle Tire - $54 x 2

Alloy Headset Spacers - $7.89 x 2

Shift Levers - $60

Chain - $10

Brake Cables - $10

Brakes - $15 x 2

Extra Long Shift Cables - $6

Derailleur - $24

Cassette - $17

Crankset - $40

Spindle - $24

Headset - $45

Seatpost - $20

Brooks Saddle - $145

Rack - $35

Brooks Panniers - $150 x 2

Brooks Bar Tape - $65


Saw Guide - $41.36

Starnut Setter - $22

u/go_flow · 2 pointsr/MTB

I don't ride mountain a ton, but this combo works well for me. Could go cheaper I'm sure, but at a certain point you will need to upgrade quickly and you're wasting money.

u/mudprint · 2 pointsr/cycling

I love the M530s. In the beginning, there are going to be moments where you don't manage to clip back in, and traffic is not going to stop for those 10 extra seconds you need to get it right. The M530s have enough platform space for you to comfortably pedal without being clipped in. Being double sided and durable as hell are also major bonuses.

u/Arturo3 · 2 pointsr/pelotoncycle

We have these on both of our bikes since last August, and they work great. No issues at all:

u/jwink3101 · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I have the 2012 (I think) version of this bike. I like it a lot (not love, but like). One of my biggest issues is the brakes. They really suck. Three recommendations are:

  • Fork crown cable hanger (improved performance, reduced shudder)
  • Salmon break pads (they make a big difference)
  • In-line cable barrel adjusters. They aren't stock on the bike but make adjustments much easier

    Other than that, just ride it well. Keep it lubed. I don't keep my very clean but I should. Also, if there is ever the opportunity, have your shop spray FrameSaver into the tubes to help protect them.
u/jermleeds · 2 pointsr/xbiking

If your fork has a fender mount hole (though the steerer, below the crown), you can use a fork mount derailleur hanger instead of the above the headset orginal version. I used one on this bike

u/beepboopsex · 2 pointsr/cyclocross

I know this was a while ago, but I bought this with my 2013 Steilacoom RCX and just replaced it. I got a bolt/washer at Home Depot for $3 and I highly recommend it:

u/day1patch · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting

I have a pack of these since about two weeks and they are awesome, basically laid out with skateboard griptape, impossible to slip off and pretty wide. A friend of mine just bought a piar of these shimanos for use on his daily commuter and says he loves them, haven't had a chance to try them out though.

u/jondthompson · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Yes, you can use a ruler, but for $4 it makes the job easier and as long as you use this tool it will save hundreds.

u/richie_engineer · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting

Go ahead and buy a new cassette and two chains. They are wear items, you will use them. If you wait too long replacing the chain, it will accelerate wear on the cassette and chainrings. I just bought a chain for $16, totally worth it to replace a couple hundred miles early to avoid chewing up a $40 cassette or having it break on my way to work.

I have this chain checker and it's pretty nice, and the price is great.

u/PM_ME_YOUR_BlCYCLE · 2 pointsr/MTB

Good stuff! Consider purchasing a chain wear indicator so that you'll be able to see when it's time to replace the chain in the future.

Worn down chains are actually a larger issue than you might think because they cause uneven stress and wear upon you cassette and chainrings, which causes them to wear faster as well.

Good riding!

u/runamok · 2 pointsr/cycling

There is a tool like this you can buy. When my chain is stretched to the .75 I replace it.

Here is a better tool:

u/aerojoe23 · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I commute by bike through the winter this will be the 4 year. My ride is short, only 2 miles.

These are awesome,
when it gets real cold you can put a pair of light weight gloves on under them. But above ~15 F the bar mitts are enough.

Because I have such a short ride I haven't had to worry about venting much but I've taken a few longer winter rides and have had to remove layers. This year I'm thinking of getting better gear. I went the cheep route on rain gear and I don't really love it... but it works.

The jacket is fine but doesn't have pockets. The pants cut to large for cycling. I also have decided that I really don't like the black for visibility reasons. They do keep me dry.

I've been using a pair of safety glasses from lowes as a windscreen. They work fine, gets foggy sometimes.
I need a better solution for my feet.
I don't have showers at work and it's nice to not have to change and carry extra stuff.
When it gets real cold keeping my face from being exposed has been an issue.
I've used a balaclava and a scarf on top of that.
I have had ski goggles fog up.
Thanks for your post got me thinking about it all again. I really need to buys some better gear this year.
Keep your feet dry.

u/snowboardracer · 2 pointsr/bicycling

If you can swing the expense, you won't regret these Bar Mitts.

u/Willflyforfood09 · 2 pointsr/MTB
u/ChristophColombo · 2 pointsr/MTB


Not sure if they'll ship to Canada though.

You'll need some sort of flat-soled shoe to take advantage of them - running shoes won't work. Five-Ten, Teva, and Vans all make cycling-specific shoes, but you can use any skate-style shoes in a pinch.

u/urban_ · 2 pointsr/MTB

I've been using some Wellgo MG-1s on my AM bike. Solid pedal. Even better price. Love it.

u/imjusthereforab · 2 pointsr/bicycling

i have heard good things about the charge spoon , though i've never ridden one.

Installation requires a metric hex wrench -- either a 4 or a 5, usually.

Most saddles will be compatible with most seat posts -- the diameter matters for the frame, but almost all saddles are two-rail designs that attach to any normal seatpost.

Make sure you put some grease on the part of the seat post that lives inside the frame -- stuck seatposts are common and incredibly annoying to fix.

u/blip01 · 2 pointsr/MTB

FOOKER MTB Bike Pedal Nylon Composite 9/16 Mountain Bike Pedals High-Strength Non-Slip Bicycle Pedals Surface for Road BMX MTB Fixie Bikes Needle Roller Bearing (Black 3 Bearings)

u/RalphBear · 2 pointsr/BikeShop

FOOKER MTB Bike Pedal Nylon 3 Bearing Composite 9/30 Mountain Bike Pedals High-Strength Non-Slip Bicycle Pedals Surface for Road BMX MTB Fixie Bikesflat Bike

I have a brand new blue pair I can sell you for $20

u/MorningMisterMagpie · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting

I have these $20 Fooker brand nylon MTB pedals on my commuter/tourer and they are great. They are very grippy with their aggressive studs, and seem to be very robust.

Edit: They are pretty much a cheap Chinese version of the RaceFace Chesters, but they seem to be just as good.

u/CPOx · 1 pointr/bicycling

I'm a new road cyclist (less than 250 miles total so far) and I'm looking for some advice about clipless pedals. I currently have the Shimano SPD-SL PD-R540, and even at the lightest setting I find that unclipping is a little difficult. I've already had one fall and a couple near misses where I've been able to unclip in time at the last moment.

After my fall, my confidence is a bit shaken. So I'm wondering if I should stick with these and try to master the mechanics, or if other pedal options like SPD or another manufacturer are inherently "easier" to unclip from?

edit: Most of my rides so far have been between 10-30 miles each on either a dedicated bike path or neighborhood streets.

u/dumboy · 1 pointr/bicycling

I love the 7.2 FX, it was my primary bike for about a year - a real "do everything" machine.

as you approach 30-40 mile rides, the seat gives you "hotspots", the grips give you blisters, the tires wear out after maybe 1200 miles, and the original eggbeater pedals squeek & fall apart.

I've yet to actually go clipless on my road bike (I know, I know), so I can't speak about that, but if distance is your primary goal then padded shorts, a new saddle, ergon grips, riding gloves & better tires are things I bought first, and I'd do it that way again. If performance is your primary goal or you already have those things, then yes - the next upgrade I would have made myself would have been the pedals.

I got 50-60 mile rides out of the 7.2 without clipless pedals, but that was mostly brute force rather than equipment. I don't mean to be a jerk, but honestly - it isn't a bike made for very very long distance. The 150-250 a good set of clipless pedals and shoes cost you can put you well on your way to a decent road bike much more comfortable on long distance rides. Don't worry, there are still plenty of excuses to go back to the FX for various riding. Just my experience, personally.

I picked myself up a pair of Shimono PD-R540's off Amazon before my morning ride just today - about 1/2 the price of the two LBS's I checked.

u/lebaronslebaron · 1 pointr/bicycling

I ride with these and I absolutely love them. They do everything I want them too.

u/mindfolded · 1 pointr/bikewrench
u/Vernion · 1 pointr/bicycling

These are the pedals I have recently purchase.

So far so good, have not rode too much in them just yet (20 miles) but I am enjoying them as of to date.

u/zair33ka · 1 pointr/bicycling

I am wrong and you are right, but the market is still dominated primarily by two types: SPD and SPD-SL. OP, I still recommend you do your own google research and LBS research because everyone has different preferences on pedals and cleats. I ride SPD on my road bikes, yet these are considered mountain bike pedals. Talk to someone at your LBS. As far as cost (and the reason I ride SPD), these are some of the most affordable/cost effective pedals on the market. If you are new to clipping in, you can get nice mountain bike style shoes that will allow you to walk around comfortably also. Also, I apologize, I didn't intend to sound condescending, but I do think a google search will give you more info faster than reddit.

u/joshrice · 1 pointr/cyclocross

Whatever shoes you get make sure they either have or can take toe spikes. They make running up a muddy hill so much easier!

I've used Shimano PD-M520 spd pedals for three years now, with no complaints. Even if you miss a clip in, or if it's clogged and you can't, there's enough of a pedal there you can still lay some power down.

For shoes, last summer I got Shimano's M162 shoe. It's been pretty good, except for some cosmetic stuff. They have removable toe spikes so if the race isn't muddy, or doesn't have a super steep run up, you can still run pretty good in them.

u/badfishnow · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

I switched to clipless about a month and a half ago.



The pedals came with the correct cleats.

u/TamaleJohnson · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

I'm currently using these Talon Fly II's with SPD-M520's. The pedals are great but the shoes do have quite a bit of flex, I also made the mistake of getting them a tad larger than I normally wear.

Yeah I'm on the hunt for a new frame right now, I'm hoping someone will buy mine with the carbon fork for $350. At that point I have $600 to drop on a frameset, but this frame might not sell.

u/mountainunicycler · 1 pointr/cycling

I've got a TCR Advanced too!

Here's what I use on both my mountain and road bikes:

And my shoes:

A little lower priced than most suggestions here.

It's worked perfectly, but I would stay away from the less expensive SPD pedals not made by shimano, they don't feel nearly as good.

u/ThreeDigitIQ · 1 pointr/MTB

Shimano PD-M520L MTB SPD Pedals with Cleats

On sale for $36

4.5 stars 400+ reviews.

u/fap__fap__fap · 1 pointr/bicycling

Bike originally retailed for $1,129.99 source

He does say that the shifters need replaced, which is going to run you about $40-$50 for the parts, if you can install it yourself.

I'm a fan of the pedals on the bike, although they aren't that expensive to pick up, about $40. If he isn't selling cleats with the bike, and you don't have cleats, they are going to cost you about $16. I can't tell what kind of bike computer is on there, but low end bike computers can be had for $10-$20, so they usually don't drive up the bike price.

It is nice that it was overhauled recently, but the items listed sound like the bike has not been used gingerly, however that is the norm for mountain bikes. The bike seems reasonably priced, but if you are looking to talk him down I would quote the "scratches and stuff", shifter replacement, possible lack of cleats, and the fact that the drivetrain is previous generation 9 speed, not 10 speed. From the unwillingness to ship and the overall state of the bike, especially the lack of cleaning prior to picture taking, I would bet that the seller is largely trying to get rid of it, as he quoted, "I am buying a new bike & do not have room for a lot of bikes".

My personal strategy, were I negotiating on this bike, would be to cite the problems with the bike, give a lowball offer at $300, and be happy if you were able to scoop it up for $350, though $400 does not seem unreasonable considering the equipment.

Overall I have found that X-7 and X-9 perform well, and personally do not mind running 9 speed kit in my mountain bikes. I have had a lot of success picking up older bikes on craigslist / ebay, and the huge cost savings far outweighs the fact that your bike isn't as shiny.

u/itbai · 1 pointr/bicycling

Funny enough... the pedals I have on there are SPD pedals that came on the bike I previously purchased. They're similar to THESE, which I found on Amazon.

The pedals I will be putting on soon though, are THESE, of which I am a massive fan. They've got SPD clips on one side and a platform on the other side, which means I can clip in when I am using cycling shoes, but can also just hop on with sneaker or any flat soled shoe that I could be wearing. Great for commuting if you don't have room in your bag to switch shoes!

u/Evolyst · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

At that price you may as well get these which are more likely to hold up

u/Neandarthal · 1 pointr/bicycling

I went clipless rather recently (yesterday). Go to your LBS, get an accurate shoe size and pick em up online cuz you have more choice and reviews. Good ones come at around 70-100. I bought these guys for 90 bucks and shimano m520's for 30 bucks. Good stuff. Just love them.

u/norapeformethankyou · 1 pointr/bicycling

So, if I buy them from here what would I do about shoes? Would any biking shoe work and I just pop in the cleats, or do I have to get a certain type?

Thanks for the tip, seems like they have a good rating everywhere.

u/thewolfwalker · 1 pointr/bicycling

You can possibly get them from Amazon for much cheaper than retail. I got my pedals + clips for around $32 (Shimano SPDs). You can get non name brands for cheaper.

My shoes were from the Amazon warehouse, and I paid $40 for them. Someone had bought them, tried them on and they didn't fit well, and did the free return thing. They were in their original box with tags and everything. Pearl Izumi X-Alp Seeks, retailed at my REI for $110ish. Shop around!

u/norcon · 1 pointr/bicycling

SPD/Speedplay, theyre all very good, but if you want to wear regular sneakers and look normal walking around, i would suggest the following:

The SPD cleat hides in the soles, so you can walk around flat footed without the clack clack clack of normal cycling shoes.

I say this because you have a langster, if you have a traditional road bike and do 80-100 miles or more on a single ride, i would say go with the speedplays, theyre a solid system and so simple, you don't have to think much after you set them up.

u/squiresuzuki · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

Protip: Next time, run the brake cable along the bottom of the handlebar all the way to the stem, securing it with electrical tape. Then, put your bar tape over that. It looks clean as hell.

PS. I also recommend these time-trial brake levers, they plug into the end of the bar instead of strapping around it.

u/theplayerpiano · 1 pointr/bicycling

Since you're not using the hoods on the brakes anyways, why not get bar-end TT brakes?

u/uraniumbomb · 1 pointr/bicycling

The brakes I have are like the ones on regular bmx/mountain bikes. I'm not looking to change those but,

This is the bar I'm buying:

I would like these brakes and have it look like this:

I was looking at these levers:

But I am entirely not sure on what I need to make it happen, are their special housings I need to buy? or better brake levers out there? Anything info would help out a lot.

I am riding just a single speed track bike with size 25.4cm handlebars if that helps.

u/AgentDaedalus · 1 pointr/BikeShop
u/brotherbock · 1 pointr/cycling

Can you fix the problem by adjusting the brakes in closer to the rim? (Apologies if they're set right, just covering bases and not knowing what your knowledge level is at.)

If not...

SRAM makes adjustable levers, I know:

Have you thought of using a Travel Agent? Not sure if it can be made to work with cantis.

These Cane Creek levers claim to work with cantis and calipers, so they may be longer...?

u/nakedavenger2222 · 1 pointr/bicycling

Second on the Cane creeks mentioned above. You definitely should consider bar end style TT ones too.

I have one cross style for the rear & two bar end style. ( Cane Creek 200 TT Time Trial Levers (Pair), Black )

Have fun!

u/streakybacon · 1 pointr/bicycling

I certainly wasn't looking for anything exotic, just a Cane Creek, but they didn't have any TT brake levers in stock, and in a store full of TT bikes it seemed like kind of a silly thing to not carry... my "surly mechanics" still got the job & a six-pack of beer while I waited a few weeks for parts, because I got the bike there & I wanted to give them my business.

u/mystogan2901 · 1 pointr/bicycling

How about this one? But the brakes will still be on the straight handlebar.

u/NaanExpert · 1 pointr/bicycling

If you find an older road bike (like 80s or 70s) bar, the diameter will work with your shifters/brakes.

These may be helpful, but are not an equivalent for drops.

I'd ride it as is though.

u/aprofessional · 1 pointr/bicycling

Yeah bar diameter kinda sucks I think you can probably fit some extensions to it though? You'll at least be able to get into them for sprints and stuff I suppose but I'd miss riding on the hoods...

u/PedalinGardener · 1 pointr/bikewrench

I have risers, love rapid fire shifters, but like the feel of drops at times and thought about these

u/qsceszxdwa · 1 pointr/bikewrench

So here's what I would do. Slide in your controls and grips to where you think they would be comfy. Ride it without touching the part of the bars you think you won't use. Cut the bars there if you're satisfied. If you really want drop bars for some reason, stick these on there after you chop the bars.

u/texastoasty · 1 pointr/bicycling

ive asked this question before, basicly best answer was bar end drops. like these:

as far as fit, if your legs are long enough that you can pedal a size larger fine then you may be able to get away with just changing the stem, which isn't too expensive or difficult.

a shorter steeper stem will get the bars closer to you and higher which will focus less of your weight on your hands.

u/johntmeche3 · 1 pointr/bicycling

I had a Giant Escape. You can either sell the bike and buy a road bike on Craigslist (what I did), or buy these:

Putting proper drops on is just too expensive.

u/Clerui · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

They’re drop bar attachments I added to my flat bar


u/doebedoe · 1 pointr/bikewrench

What is it about drops that you want? If it's a more aggressive riding position then yes go with a road bike. But do know those slimmer tires will not be as forgiving over bumps as something with a bit more volume.

If its just that you want more hand positions for the ride there are a whole variety of bar ends that you can add for little expense. Some of these will stretch you out more, some will just reorient your hands, and these mimic drop bars.

Plus v-brakes are probably the best rim brakes for a commuter (powerful, easy to run fenders, etc etc.)

u/donsqeadle · 1 pointr/gravelcycling

Or you can try these clamp on drop bars Origin8 Drop Ends

u/krowemax · 1 pointr/bicycletouring

I have a set of these: that I would like to get rid of.

u/justasack · 1 pointr/bicycling

Yeah, I had to do another google search because I was confused. Here they are on amazon:

u/SeattleHikeBike · 1 pointr/bicycling
u/lazy_beans · 1 pointr/bikewrench

I agree. If he wants to try drop bar geometry on the bike he could try these and adjust/replace the stem. Maybe cut the bars after placement. Wouldn't need to invest in shifters/brakes/brifters to try the fit. Definitely cheaper way to try the geometry change.

u/stewart12rb · 1 pointr/cycling

i have a hybrid and just recently added drop bars. it cost a little over $30 and you can find all the materials off of amazon.
link for the dropbars
grip tape

u/dancefloor_poison · 1 pointr/bicycling

I run kool stop dual compound brake pads on my Bianchi (Ambrosio Elite steel rims). It took a bit of modification, but these work great and are significantly better than the old pads. Works fine in the rain.

u/racefacexc · 1 pointr/bikewrench

You could try a harder pad, but often that results in less friction or more force required at the lever to get the same braking performance. Kool-stop used to make great rim brake pads and appear to still make them. Might be worth a try.

They are about twice the cost initially but once pad replacement is required, the insert is about the same price at the pads you currently use.

If you decide to try these or any other pad, verify fitment. It's been years since I've worked on a road bike and don't know if compatibility is what I remember. They visually look the same as far as mounting goes.

u/RVABikeGent · 1 pointr/cycling

What /u/mmembrino said. I recommend the Kool Stop

u/name_is_too_long · 1 pointr/bicycling

Just search "v-brake brake pads" on amazon and most of those should work. I use this for my front brake because it doesn't squeak but it isn't that powerful. If you don't have a front wheel that squeals like mine then get these really powerful ones.

u/miasmic · 1 pointr/bicycletouring

Sorry not get back to you sooner was really busy yesterday. The 96 model think would have had cantilever brakes as stock, V-brakes were brand new when this came out, and prety sure the Indy forks didn't come out on bikes until 97 model year.

So parts list of stuff to buy



You might want to buy two you will want to carry a spare chain on tour

Tires: (might find cheaper elsewhere, but you want the dual compound/DC ones with the EXO casing ideally - there are cheaper options for tires that would work than these but I think it's one area it's not so good to cheap out on)


(or find some vintage 8-speed XT/LX ones from eBay, they are a little nicer)

Brake pads:

These should make a decent improvement to braking power especially in the wet, you could bring the old pads on the tour as spares/backups if they still work OK and have life left (always want to have at least a pair of spare pads)

New cables:

You'll need at least new inner cables to install new shifters, and probably a good idea to replace the housing too, though you need either really good cable cutters or a Dremel/rotary tool with a cut-off wheel to cut housing, or get a bike shop to cut it to length. Not suggesting white colour that was just the first link I saw though it might look pimp.


You could get a tool kit like one of these

Or you could buy a multitool that would be good for bringing on the tour

And extra stuff like cassette tool and chainwhip and tire levers individually:

That might be the way to go.

That's not everything you'd need to go touring and stuff like the bars and saddle are a lot about personal taste but should be good to get you started.

Apologies for using links I'm too used to helping Americans on here but hopefully can get them on the .ca site. Chain Reaction that I linked the toolkit from (would be confident that's the best out of those three kits I have some of the tools from it) in the UK can be a good place to order stuff from

u/rswinkler · 1 pointr/cyclocross

I like these. Lots of braking power. Only downside is that you have to do the full setup again each time you change the pad. In stock holders, you can set it up once, and then just change the pad inserts.

Just about anything is better than the stock Tektro pads.

u/stuman1974 · 1 pointr/bikewrench

I ordered up a couple pairs of these Kool Stop pads from Amazon. Will report back once I get and install them.

u/Compgeke · 1 pointr/bicycling

Pads are cheap and easy to replace, decent ones aren't even too expensive. I run on my bikes myself and the difference between them and stock Tektro pads (or 30 year old pads) is night and day. They also stand out if anyone takes your bike, I mean who else has black/salmon pads?

If pads don't do it, you might need a cable replacement too. It's one of the easiest tasks around, you'll just need cable cutters which is the most expensive part of the whole ordeal.

u/feis · 1 pointr/bicycletouring

Just got back from Europe, we had helmets but mostly kept them for bad road/weather conditions. Not sure there's a really good reason not to wear one, and as someone else said it's not that heavy so definitely worth at least bringing, I think.

As for 'tools', definitely remember to bring some oil & rag to lube your chain. If it's raining or you're going over sand it can dry out your chain pretty quickly. I don't know how long your tour is, but maybe a chain whip/spare spokes? If you don't want to carry thall of that, is what we carried, which seems like it should be good enough to get you to a shop to have it replaced.

u/WillAdams · 1 pointr/bicycletouring

It's a spoke replacement:

Listed at: --- you may find the balance of that wiki of interest --- in particular, I didn't see a bike tool set, or at least a multi-tool. I'd also suggest a patch kit, esp. if not taking the second spare

u/lshiva · 1 pointr/bicycletouring

FiberFix Spokes are lighter and smaller than cassette tools. They'll get you to the next bike shop, and are usable without removing your cassette.

u/GogglesPisano · 1 pointr/bicycletouring

I broke a rear spoke while on tour last summer - I carry two extra spokes, but the cassette on the rear wheel blocked the hole for the broken spoke, and I couldn't manage to thread the spare to fit without removing it (which I did not have the tools for).

Luckily, one of the guys in my group had a FiberFix spoke kit, and it worked like a champ. I was able to fix my wheel and complete my tour using it. Now I keep one in my kit - tiny and weighs practically nothing, but it can really come in handy.

u/DAFT_M0NK · 1 pointr/bicycletouring

Most of my broken spokes have been on the rear driveside. The first time I was lucky enough to be in town near a bike shop to use their tools. I would recommend either the stein cassette cracker or a fiber fix spoke

u/UKArch · 1 pointr/bicycletouring

If your not planning on taking spokes I would highly recommend one of these

u/seeker333 · 1 pointr/bicycletouring

Inside seat post too, provided it's long enough, retained by a cork, rubber stopper or similar plug. Padding will prevent rattling noise.

It's worth mentioning that if your rear wheel is properly specified and built, and you don't overload the rear, then it is unlikely that you'll break a spoke. In this case, carrying a Fiberfix repair is the most you'll need, and it will replace any spoke without the need for chainwhip, cassette lockring tool, hypercracker-type tools, a bike shop, etc.

u/icangetuatoe · 1 pointr/bicycletouring

Aside from replacement spokes and some way to attach them (multi tool or spoke wrench), consider a lightweight cassette removal tool so you can make repairs on the road - - and/or a fiberfix replacement spoke kit

u/roy649 · 1 pointr/bicycletouring

Yup. I've got the Shimano A530 but there's a few others that are variations on that theme.

Sometimes, even if I'm wearing my cycling shoes, I'll use the platform side. If I'm navigating some tight urban space, for example, and know I'll be going slow and stopping often. Or, even on the road, sometimes I'll unclip and flip them over just to give my feet a change.

I find being clipped in most useful climbing long hills. Pulling up on the backstroke gets other leg muscles into the game. Sometimes that's the difference between cresting the hill and having to take a break.

I used to wear toe clips with straps. This sort of thing. I find the SPDs to be easier to get out of quickly. What I haven't tried is the new style strapless toe-clips. I should probably give those a try.

u/OneLegAtATime · 1 pointr/bicycling

these pedals or these pedals have clips on one side, platforms on the other. I ride 20 miles a day on them commuting, and have done it both with and without clips. I can't think of anything better for my current commuting scenario.

u/danny31292 · 1 pointr/bicycling

He never once mentioned racing. He talked about rides to lunch etc. I think this would be a good choice.

u/edgebaristax · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

I am thinking about getting the same SPD Pedals that I have on my other Masi. There are amazing because they offer a few riding options.

u/ItsToka · 1 pointr/corgi

Shimano PD-A530 SPD Dual Platform Bike Pedal these.

u/the_gnarts · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

> Uhh, those are definitely meant for cleats to be installed. The 2 screws are standard SPD compatible.

Yes I know, but they work good even without.

> How tiny are your platforms that they can fit into that space?

On the commuter I have these:

u/gnarmonica · 1 pointr/bicycling

I'm a little late on your post, but as someone who only recently got serious about cycling and even more recently went clipless, I'll share some thoughts:

> more speed/acceleration

As others have said, there isn't a substantial speed increase. However, in my opinion, it does become easier to get up to speed if you pop out of the saddle and floor it. It also makes climbing feel far easier to me. The biggest advantage is the added stability in your feet. After 5-10 miles, I don't even feel the pedals so much anymore and it becomes a fluid process.

> But does this tire you out faster?

Not really, but if I'm being honest, "pulling" uses a set of muscles you may not be used to using, so your legs may get unexpectedly sore for the first couple of rides if you do that. Once you're past that (which was quick for me) there are no real downsides.

> Are they hard to get out of in a pinch?

This depends. There are different types of cleats/clips, and you can vary the tension on each, making them easier or harder to get out of. I've been using mine for about 6 months and have always been able to clip out in time, even once when a car cut me off and I had to get out in a split second.

> Are good/light ones terribly expensive?

Prices vary widely, but you can easily get a solid set of pedals for $50 or so. I have these pedals here, since I ride recreationally and also use my bike to commute in to work. Notice there are clips on one side and a flat platform on the other. They aren't the lightest, but they aren't super heavy, and the versatility is great.

u/brit527 · 1 pointr/ladycyclists

GPS or the pedals?

I use these for pedals on both my road bike and hybrid. Shimano PD-A530 SPD Dual Platform Bike Pedal I found shoes at a local bike shop for $100. I definitely say to try them on before buying.

As for the GPS— I bought a used Garmin Edge 500 for $50 from someone in my bike club. Prior, I used Strava on my phone but it was a real battery killer.

u/gabbagoo · 1 pointr/bicycling

Oh man, besides the pedals I'm not sure these are upgrades as much as they are 'add-ons' but hey I'm done working so I'll pretend by being on Reddit:

Got this light from my LBS with my bike, love that it was bright as shit and rechargeable...I emailed the company about some the band and different sizes since we have the interrupter lever, they were awesome and sent me some to try out

This tail Light because it was also rechargeable and crazy bright...people behind me have rolled up and asked what kind of light it likey

These panniers because the good reviews, minimal looks, and the waterproof aspect..I use these guys along with a random rack from REI it..I also got this backpack thingymajig that makes the pannier a backpack

Got these pedals because they allowed me to rock normal shoes when I'm not wearing these, I like that I can tool around with just normal shoes on without worrying about foot placement.

And riding through town with the oblivious drivers/tourists around downtown I'm picking this horn, we'll see how it goes..and maybe a gopro......

u/Mindflux · 1 pointr/bicycling

I was eyeing some Shimano Dual Platform pedals myself. One side is for riding with your 'normal' shoes and the other side supports SPD cleats.

Then instead of some insane moonboots I was going to do something like:

I figure this way if I want a leisurely ride with the family.. I can do that. Or if I want to clip in I can do that too.

u/mochabear1231 · 1 pointr/bicycling

Yeah, any other non-road bike pedal will be more than enough. I have these on my Felt, and they're not true road or mountain bike pedals, more like commuter-esque/urban riding pedals. A lot of people like the Shimano SPD pedals because they are really great value for the price point. These ones are the most common and are very versatile.

Unless you're pro-cyclist level, there really isn't a huge gain (at least imo, ymmv) between the two. Comes down to preference really. I have noticed in a few bike shops that road shoes/cleats tend to run a little bit more as well, but I also wasn't really looking into those, so obviously there's going to be variation.

Yup, I wear those to bike and 4-5/7 days of the week at work. Really not complaints at all - very sturdy shoe, good design, and the vibram soles work great in any wet/non-ideal conditions.

It sucks to say, but you are definitely going to eat shit at least once while getting used to clipless pedals. Just a part of the initiation into biking culture!

u/_Curious-Guy_ · 1 pointr/bikewrench

> You could rig up toe clips which work with sandals.

No, I am so not a toe clip guy. Been there, done that. I have an MTB flat pedal on there now. I do a lot of off and on road, so I like the wideness of the pedal and super comfortable on them. In many ways, don't want to lose it, but I ride enough and knowledgeable enough to know that the constant shifting around is causing me to get my knees out of position. I put a lot of miles in and know enough now. And I have been locked in before with a Shimano PD-A530 before, although it has been a few years, and realized then that my mechanics were just much smoother and natural when locked in from what I remember.

> If you walk around your home with SPD shoes on you will destroy your floors.

Oh I know that...I was talking more about why then what I was hoping to do. I just want a SPD shoe that I can be in when I am out and about all day riding or when I start to tour, I will be in them majority of the time. When I walk around camp or whatever, I can use flip flops, regular sandals, or light second pair of shoes of whatever I decide to eventually carry season dependent.

u/questions_fo_days · 1 pointr/bicycling

Just my experience but I went with Bontrager Solstice shoes and absolutely love them. I have a wider foot and they have rubber on the bottom so not terrible to walk a short distance in.

For pedals I went with Shimano A530 pedals. A solid pedal that can be ridden as a flat as well. Not the lightest pedal but very practical for me.

Total cost $130.00. Might be an option for you.

u/sebnukem · 1 pointr/bikecommuting
  • spare inner tube
  • patch kit
  • light rain jacket
  • bike gloves
  • SPD pedals and shoes (hybrids are the best)
  • helmet mounted mirror
  • puncture resistant tires
u/scrooched_moose · 1 pointr/CyclingMSP

Have you seen the Shimano A530 Pedals? They're reversible, with SPD on one side and platform the other.

u/DIM1 · 1 pointr/bmxracing

They do make pedals with an actual platform on one side and clip on the other designed for dual use. [Example] (

u/peejie · 1 pointr/MTB

I bought these.
My buddy bought these

They're dual platform/cleats. I enjoy them GREATLY and frequently switch during a ride. Granted, I don't race, but on a typical ride, I'll clip in for uphill/downhill and switch to platforms for anything technical. I have about 20 hours using these now and this was my first time using cleats. There absolutely is a learning curve but the trade-off is exceptional power and control.

Enjoy, whatever you decide on!

u/chaloobin · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

I got these, what do you think?

u/BatmanTheHorse · 1 pointr/chibike

I have a silver 59cm Windsor Wellington 3, bought this summer, less than 100 miles on it, with new Shimano A530 pedals (SPD on one side, platform on the other)

It was inspected by Bike Lane in Logan Square after assembly, everything's in good shape.

I just prefer my old bike and I still ride it exclusively, so this one is just taking up space. Make me an offer if you're interested. Thanks!

u/VoldemortRocks · 1 pointr/pelotoncycle

Agreed, its a good idea for folks who already have a shoe with different cleats. I already had SPD compatible shoes and didn't want to spend the extra $ on the Peloton shoes. Did something similar but with Shimano pedals:
Allows my 15 y.o. daughter who does not have cycling shoes to take advanced beginner rides and a couple of friends who have been curious have also been able to try out the bike.

u/merinith · 1 pointr/bicycling

On my "rainy day" road bike, I have Shimano's A530 pedals ( amazon link ). They are platform on one side and SPD cleats on the other. While I usually ride clipped in 99% of the time, I find the platform side occasionally useful when I want to wear normal walking/running shoes while riding (usually because of whatever I plan on doing when I get where I'm going).

The main downside (for some) is that I've only ever seen dual pedals with SPD cleats (not SPD-SL, which a lot of roadies use). I prefer this style anyways because of the amount of float that they provide, and solve a lot of the other issues that people usually complain of (hot spots, stiffness) by having carbon-soled cycling shoes.

u/Devlinukr · 1 pointr/bicycling

You might want to consider the OnGuard + these if you don't want to carry your front wheel around:

You may be able to find these items for cheaper online but as I'm in the UK googling US sites is a pita.

u/admiralawesome92 · 1 pointr/stanford

Would something like this help or just be a waste of money? (Along with a ulock and cable):

u/spaced_toast · 1 pointr/xbiking

I saw a video where the guys suggested this!

Profile Design Threadless Size Converter (1" - 1 1/8")

u/visusest · 1 pointr/bikewrench

Just get a quill to 28.6 adapter and you can use a standard stem to run 31.8 bars

u/Hoagies-And-Grinders · 1 pointr/bicycling

If you want to make some mods that will be reversible, you can get a quill stem converter (, a short mountain bike stem (50-60mm), wide mountain bars, take off the kickstand, and then add some better pedals. I did this to my '91 RockHopper and it made it fun to ride and I was able to convert it back to original. Also, ditch the rack and crate unless you really need it but it looks like it's pushing your seat way too far forward.

u/Beer_Is_So_Awesome · 1 pointr/cyclocross

You don’t have many options. Either buy the adaptors, some version of this thing or something really nice like this or a cheap one like this.

u/winter-wolf · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

Hey all,

Does anyone know what stem size is compatible with a 53cm 2017 Kilo TT Pro? I can't find this information anywhere.

I want to get this kind of stem (I've already tried 100mm and 90mm because I read those sizes were compatible online):


**EDIT: I can see I was horribly misguided when trying to fit this stem onto the tt pro. It looks look I need some kind of stem adapter - would this work?

u/BenDBones · 1 pointr/bicycling

The adapter is a Profile Design and the stem manufacturer escapes me right now, and I'm too lazy to check, but a moderately priced stem will do the trick.
The Drops are Soma Portolo and are extremely rad, I can't say enough good things about them.
Levers and brakes are tektro and the shifters are micro indexed on the rear and friction on the front (I forget the manufacturer there as well).
Overall the changes have made a world of a difference on that bike.
I normally ride with Resist Nomad slicks, but then some snow and ice came so I switched over to some Suomi Studs and then the snow melted.

u/thehumble_1 · 1 pointr/bikewrench

Depends on the frame. My Trek took a 1 1/8 threaded fork which meant I could swap the fork/headset/stem for a threadless one. You're fork is probably 1" threaded so no go. There are a few work arounds like a threadless stem converter, but generally you're stuck based on your frame/fork.

Profile Design Threadless Size Converter (1" - 1 1/8")

u/Volco · 1 pointr/bicycling

hey i'm buying these for my single speed bike

now i was wonder would these cables work with them?

u/US_Hiker · 1 pointr/bikewrench

Okay, so with $200, assuming I was doing the work:

Wrap handlebars - $11.53 (sweet dark red, cause the red on there looks awesome already)
Cheap 700c wheels from co-op - $20? (Talk with them about the gearing to see if the range is the same, or if you want tighter range or whatever, they probably have a few sets there with somewhat different gear ranges on the rear)
Saddle from co-op - $5-10
Tubes/tires - $45 (tires, tubes)
Derailleur cables - $7 (Shimano, here)
Brake cables - $10.39 (Shimano, here)
Brake levers - $22.53 (Tektro RL340)
Brakes - $62 - (Tektro 539 rear, front)
5-speed chain - 7.98 (here)

Then I'd try to get pedals and a cheap but aluminum quill stem, handlebars, and seatpost from the co-op. Depending on where you are, you may be able to get all for $20 or less. Functional new parts suggestions: (not guaranteed to fit. These have all sorts of different diameters over the years/models, so you need to know what you have/need. Handlebars, Seatpost, stem.)

u/FUBARded · 1 pointr/bicycling

Nevermind, seems I was mistaken. $28USD for a mechanical brake and shifter cable set on Amazon. It'd be about $45 retail for a hydraulic brake hose and a shift cable set.

Since a bike shop buys this stuff wholesale they can easily afford to charge exactly retail or under for a service like this and still make a fair profit, so OP is either being upcharged in parts too if it's a mechanical brakeset, or were charged a reasonable price for hydraulic.

u/Sloppy1sts · 1 pointr/MTB

Same price on Amazon...

u/pushing_ice · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

The Shimano M530 might be considered to be in this category. The spd mechanism does stick up a fair bit though.

u/debaked · 1 pointr/MTB

I have these shoes with these pedals.

Excellent traction while walking and the pedals are great for the price. I also ride a fair amount of road and have no complaints so far.

u/Velodromed · 1 pointr/pelotoncycle

Dual-sided pedals with toe cages on one side usually have toothy flats or SPD on the other. SPD pedals will have small jaws that face and resemble each other--see the pedal at this link for an example. It's hard to recommend shoes (as fit and feel is a matter of subjective experience) so I recommend visiting your LBS and trying some on, or ordering a few different types from a seller who offers free return shipping.

u/dmv1975 · 1 pointr/cycling

These are what I use:

I got them for the same reason, that I thought I might want to ride without clipping in from time to time. However, I always clip in and never ride the flat sides. If I were buying today, I would buy something like this:

u/what_im_working · 1 pointr/bicycling

I can't take credit for solving anything. I bought it on Amazon.

u/rhizopogon · 1 pointr/bikewrench

Get a crown-mounted cable stop. Replace the old one with a spacer. Repair the threads with cutting die, thread file or needle file.

u/fdrowell · 1 pointr/xbiking

If you stick with Cantilever brakes (I did) then I would suggest this tektro fork mount cable hanger instead:
I bought one like the one you linked to, but returned it for the post mounted one. More stable and easier to mess with. But you will need to get a longer mounting bolt. I just took it to ace hardware and they found me the right bolt for a buck or two.

u/KISSOLOGY · 1 pointr/MTB

Looking at Flat pedals considering a few different models and need advice on which one is the best.





Bonmixc Mountain Bike Pedals

Origin8 Ultim8 Slimline Platform Pedals

The last two are a bit less expensive but they look decent. I am aware that typically you get what you pay for. I've seen the Shimano Saint in store and the CrankBro in store. Xpedo SPRY seems to have reviews too

u/aedrin · 1 pointr/MTB

I use the Shimano MX80 (Zee) and I really like them. They look really nice and work well. Good price on Amazon too.

u/originalnate · 1 pointr/MTB

Probably a really dumb question but, I'm new to Mountain Biking and just got my first "real" bike last week.

The thing came with shit plastic pedals that I need to replace. What should I be looking for in a pedal? Is there really that big of a difference between these Shimano pedals for $60 and these DiamondBack Pedals for $15?

The DiamondBack pedals have 2 sizes listed. How do I know what size I need?

u/sir_earl · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

I'm not sure about checking the tension of the chain but there is stuff like this

u/NCC1941 · 1 pointr/bikewrench

In addition to the other advice here, I would recommend picking up a chain wear checker (example). Use it every once in a while, and it'll tell you when you need to replace the chain, before the worn chain tears up the gears too badly.

One set of gears should last 3 or 4 chains if you keep your chains lubed and replace them when they wear out, but if you keep waiting until the chain starts skipping, you're likely to need new gears with every new chain.

u/PresidentEstimator · 1 pointr/MTB

re: Sizing,
Everyone's different. Go to your local bike shop and try sitting on a medium and a large of a brand's line, then try those on another brand. You're generally on the cusp of a large, which as far as I know most people, in general, recommend going a size up if you're on that cusp. All depends on your reach, etc.

People below are saying to go with the Meta. I disagree for one major reason: dropper posts are present on the other two. This is a $200-300 upgrade that I would argue is the next biggest thing since rear suspension. Additionally, the drivetrains on the Giants are all 1x's which I would also prefer. You're also looked at tapered tubes for the Giants, which is the new industry standard for forks. The 2015 is locked into a somewhat old paradigm.

Nevermind crossed out text from above, looks like it has a routed dropper, but still appears to have a 2x drivetrain?

Go with either Fantom. I'd suggest going to try riding the large first, then try the medium to see if you feel 'restricted.'

Someone please argue all my points. :D

Edit : /u/letsplaypsvr made a very valuable point about buying new, I think one of the major things to look at is the chain wear. Buy a small tool for cheap that measures chain wear for 1x10-11 and take it with you to check out the bikes. If the chain's not been changed when it should've, it may have damaged the drive train to the point that a new chain would degrade hyperquickly and cause even more damage to the drive train.. this is yet again.. another $200ish in parts/time/tools. If you can identify that the drive train's shot and needs replacing, you could always haggle way down.

u/crossingtheabyss · 1 pointr/MTB
u/PolishTea · 1 pointr/MTB

As someone who bike commuted in Wisconsin year round let my frost bitten dead nerved knuckles and fingers tell you that you should ask for Pogies this holiday season.

Something like these:

WITH gloves on under them. Windchill when you bike around in tempueratures already below zero is no effin joke as you should know being in the UP.

u/milnosaurus · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

bike shop, amazon, other online bike stores. They are very warm though! I have yet to go riding in weather that I need anything on my hands under them.

u/marginrelease · 1 pointr/bicycling

Bar Mitts are indispensable if you are prone to cold hands/fingers. They make variants for both flat and drop bars. I much prefer them over lobster gloves or ski gloves.

u/planification · 1 pointr/bicycling

Try Bar Mitts. They go on your handlebars, and create a nice little space for heat to stay while also blocking the wind. There are a few styles available depending on what type of bike you ride (MTB or road).

u/Smurfymike · 1 pointr/MTB

These things will pertain more to riding on trails, but you might want:

  • gloves for the trails (not so much for the commuting)

  • pedals (only if you have plastic pedals you might want to upgrade.) I recently did and i feel so much more comfortable with my new, large, grippy, Wellgo MG-1's

  • new shoes if you don't want to mess up your current shoes on the pedals.
u/Jeepin08 · 1 pointr/29er

Congrats! Wonderful bike, I have this exact bike. I highly recommend getting these pedals because the stock pedals are hard plastic that are like butter when they get wet. Also if you plan on hitting rock gardens and/dirt jumps, I would highly recommend getting this rear derailleur. I found out the hard way when I hit a jump and my chain slapped, thankfully I did not wipe out. ALSO convert to tubeless! I haven't yet, but I am planning to in the near future.

Most important part, ENJOY THE BIKE AND RIDE RIDE RIDE!!

u/OEICMNXHSD43 · 1 pointr/MTB
u/initial_skid · 1 pointr/cycling

When possible, I prefer pedals with reflectors. My road bike has clipless pedals, so I put retroreflective tape on my shoes. But on my other bike, I use these pedals:

u/Vox_Populi · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

WellGo MG1

Just over your price limit, but it's worth it for magnesium (light) and removable/replaceable pins (they grip way better than molded ones, and you can replace them when they wear down). Fits any Hold Fast-style straps.

u/Vairman · 1 pointr/MTB

We used to recommend Wellgo MG1s around here. I have a set and I love them. Fairly cheap too.

u/Conpen · 1 pointr/MTB

Been rocking mine for a year now, you'll love yours!

Do yourself a favor and grab a pair of Wellgo MG-1 Pedals, they're infinitely more durable and grippy than the plastic ones the bike comes with.

u/metalate · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

That's what I do as well. Then I'd suggest either the Bommixc or Wellgo Mg 1:

Bonmixc are cheaper, and they're really well made. My only criticism of Bonmixc is that if you wear really thin, flexible soled shoes, then you can feel the metal bar a bit on the ball of your foot. But if you have stiffer soles, or something like a normal athletic/running shoe, it's no issue. Wellgo is also great.

u/sick__bro · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

Do you like magnesium?

u/d00ber · 1 pointr/MTB

You mentioned that your tubes have given out on you. Since they are cheap, replace these first. When replacing the tubes, run your finger along the inside side walls of the wheel. Do you feel any burrs or anything sticking out? If so, sand it down and get some rim tape. Bikes like these usually come with cheaper tires varying in quality. When the tire is off, check a couple things;

  • The tire will be wire bead (you can easily google what this means). Check to see that the wire bead doesn't have any abnormalities (straight, nothing sticking out of the bead).
  • Check for holes or sign of ware
  • Check if anything somehow made it inside of the tire.

    Remember, if you replace the tire don't go crazy and buy tires that are 80$ each. Go with something like this;

    After this, if you're going to be doing any agressive mountain biking, I would highly recommend replacing the pedals with something that has metal pins. Once again, no need to go crazy! Something like this:

    The two best upgrades in my opinion are:

  • A pair of well fitting baggy cycling shorts. I highly recommend the company endura.
  • A decent hydration pack that has room for a spare tube, a tire lever, and a general folding bike tool

    Do not patch these tubes. The tubes this bike came with are not great. Tubes are so cheap they aren't worth patching unless you're out and run out of tubes. Don't buy a tube from target or walmart, make sure you buy a tube from an actual bike shop as they are a much higher quality.
u/jgabrielsson · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

i got a cheap bike mostly for the aesthetics of it ( ) that i just started riding fixed, and i really like it so far. But i somehow think an upgrade would do me good. What would be your #1 priorities to change on the bike? Im ordering a new saddle next week and also some straps. Other then that, what would YOU buy/change and why?

u/mania4conquest · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

I hear good things about these saddles.

u/SilverRubicon · 1 pointr/bicycling

I have a collection of WTB saddles. Not a fan of them but they tend to come stock on bikes. Love my Specialized Phenom and Fabric Scoop Shallow. Not much padding but they both flex and I find them extremely comfortable. I’ve read good things about these Charge Spoons and they’re inexpensive

u/Youshittytit · 1 pointr/fatbike

Charge Spoon

It has been super comfortable so far

u/juggafat · 1 pointr/MTB
u/Bdills24 · 1 pointr/mountainbiking

Nice! As a newer rider myself, some big advice, get some new pedals, it makes the bike feel much better for very cheap. I always had a problem with my feet slipping off of the factory ones.

I use these fooker pedals

They're very affordable and they're half the price of Raceface Chester's but they're the exact same mold.

Edit: unless of course you have no issue with the pedals you have. They just look like the factory ones and those are rarely comparable to aftermarket pedals.

u/SourCreamWater · 1 pointr/MTB

Get a set of these Fooker pedals off Amazon.

They come in tons of colors and are basically identical to Raceface Chesters but cost less than half. I have a set of both and cannot tell a difference.

u/ticktocktoe · 0 pointsr/pelotoncycle

You're going to want to go clipless (which is what clip in pedals are called - bit counter intuitive). That said, I hate that peloton comes with Look Deltas - just buy a set of Shimano SPD-SL cleats and pedals - they are the same bolt pattern as Look Deltas and far more prevalent across the cycling world.

u/lilychaud · 0 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

> single pivot caliper brakes suck

SheldonBrown disagrees:

"Shimano Linear Response, a series of friction-reducing modifications introduced in the late 1980's in the
Shimano 105 group. The 105 SLR brakes (the best sidepull calipers ever made, in my opinion) "

I can speak from experience that my BR1050s and BR6400s stop just as good as any modern dual pivot, and look much better on a vintage bike IMO. If you're having problems with braking performance, it's most likely the pads. Spend that $40 on some KoolStop Dura 2s, and you'll never need to "upgrade" to dual pivot.

u/universalcode · 0 pointsr/bikewrench

You probably need a stem adapter, not a shim. This will allow you to use any modern stem.

Profile Design Threadless Size Converter (1" - 1 1/8")

u/thephotopiper · 0 pointsr/NYCbike

Like most places in NYC, they are not 'cheap,' but they are not really 'expensive.'

You were charged about twice the value of the cables.

u/Self_Destruct_Button · -2 pointsr/bicycling

There's no such thing as a clipless shoe that's comfortable to walk around in; they all feel like ice skates or ski boots due to the rigid and hard soles. The best case scenario is something like Chrome makes with the rubber outsoles and recessed SPD cleats, but it's still got a rigid sole thicker than a steel toe workboot.

My advice is to turn the Fred knob back. You can do plenty of "serious" riding or whatever on normal pedals, and Clipless shoes are a pain in the dick to walk around in for less than minimal benefit at the entry level.

If you really insist, try a multi-function pedal like this.