Best bike cranksets according to redditors

I wouldnt go with the Sugino Messenger. The S300 is much better and will be about the same price if not cheaper (the bb is included on the s300).

http://www.amazon.com/SRAM-S300-Courier-Crankset-165mm/dp/B00FA5PPIC

If you do happen to get the messenger the bb that you selected will not work. This is what you will need

http://www.citygrounds.com/sugino/sugino-cbbf103-bottom-bracket-3041/color/BLACK

You have a loose crank arm there, and what looks like probably a loose bottom bracket too (the part at the bottom of the bike that the crank arms attach to, it spins).

It's very possible that that bottom bracket doesn't need replaced, and just needs taken apart, cleaned out re-lubed and tightened. Then you would clean up those rusty crank bolts with barkeeper's friend to make them shiny again, and put them back on pretty tight.

It depends how expensive the bike is. If it's a $300 or less bike I would bet relubing and tightening the bottom bracket and then just tightening the crank arms would put it back to working like new.

You'd need a bottom bracket wrench to remove the bottom bracket, and a crank puller. For both those tools that's gonna be about $23. These are cheaper ones but you will only use them once so it's fine.

Then you need some marine grease at Walmart for about $4, and some bar keepers friend (at Walmart or grocery store for about $3).

This is a total of about $30 to fix your bike on your own.

You could follow a video on removing the crank arms
And removing and relubing your bottom bracket.

You would take the bolts off your crank arms, pull both crank arms off with the crank puller, and then remove the bottom bracket. You'd clean it out real good with rubbing alcohol or brake cleaner, and then relube it with marine grease, and then tighten everything down. Then you would clean up those rusty crank arm bolts with bar keepers friend and an old tooth brush, and then tighten the crank arms back on. Bike would be good as new for $30. So long as you're patient, careful, and follow the videos. Look around online for things if your not sure.

If you have access to a torque wrench that would be great to follow torque specifications, but you can do without if you follow a video. I mean, your bike will be much safer afterwards than it is now. Fixing it well (instead of perfect) is better than not fixing it at all.

If you are not a d.i.y. fix-it kind of guy, you can go to a bike shop. Not sure how much they will charge. I wouldn't know, I rarely go unless I'm buying a bike. I only wrench at home 🔧

perhaps this:

https://www.amazon.com/Sugino-Single-Speed-165mm-130mm/dp/B0068S1YH6/

but square taper, you can put anything you like on there. why do you want a 130mm BCD? you wanna change rings, you can probably get whatever ring you want for a 110bcd just fine.

Budget? You won't need to spend a great deal of money. Presuming the bottom bracket is ok, you just need to locate a compatible crankset with, I presume a square taper fitting.

If you want to install it yourself you'll need a crank puller:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/park-tool-cotterless-crank-puller-ccp22/rp-prod34314

Don't try to remove/install a crank without one of these, lest you damage the bottom bracket. You will also need a pedal spanner, and be warned, pedals can be absolute bastards to get off.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Super-Pedal-Spanner-15mm-Pedals/dp/B0012Z5IU4/ref=sr_1_1?s=sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1408736859&sr=1-1&keywords=super+b+pedal+spanner

For a replacement crankset, perhaps something like this?

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-M131-Crankset-170mm-48/dp/B003ZMDJW6/ref=sr_1_4?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1408736777&sr=1-4

You might also have to make some adjustments to your front and rear derailleurs as the chainrings on the new crank will probably be slightly closer to or further away from the frame, but this is no more difficult than adjusting the tensioning screw on each gear cable. The front derailleur may also strike the new crankset, so pay attention to dimensions.

If I were you, I'd just stop now and save your money for a better bike. The Schwinn Varsity weighs 42 lbs, or about 12-18lbs over what even a generic chromoly framed 80s road bike would weigh, and given that you can pick those up pretty cheaply on craigslist, I'd trade it in and go that route.

But assuming you're already sentimentally attached to this one, despite the fact that it weighs about two full gallon milk jugs more than a bike needs to, you're going to need to start with a 1 piece to 3 piece adapter, like this American to Euro BMX adapter.

Then add a generic road double crankset in your desired length and the appropriately sized bottom bracket, and a fresh chain cut to the right size.

Other than that, it's basically a question of taking the old parts off and putting the new parts on and transferring the pedals over.

Found a replacement on Amazon. So I guess just buy this and screw on the outer ring/cap so I can use the 8mm to remove the crank?

https://www.amazon.com/SRAM-Left-Hand-Crank-Bolt/dp/B002I7O5O0

It would be preferred if you got a chainring designed for the same speed as the rest of your drivetrain.

But, considering replacement FC-M361 full cranksets are super cheap on Amazon, I wouldn't bother with just the ring if you could find the right one.

http://amzn.com/B00288JWH4

LHT Frame - $520 after tax

Chukker Wheels - $85 x 2

Tires Schwalbe Marathon Plus RLX 700 x 45 C Bicycle Tire - $54 x 2

Alloy Headset Spacers - $7.89 x 2

Shift Levers - $60

Chain - $10

Brake Cables - $10

Brakes - $15 x 2

Extra Long Shift Cables - $6

Derailleur - $24

Cassette - $17

Crankset - $40

Spindle - $24

Headset - $45

Seatpost - $20

Brooks Saddle - $145

Rack - $35

Brooks Panniers - $150 x 2

Brooks Bar Tape - $65

Tools

Saw Guide - $41.36

Starnut Setter - $22

I want to replace my NDS side crank bolt (the 8mm one) on my Omnium crankset with a brand new one. Can anyone confirm if this is the correct part?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002I7O5O0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2TE9IQP68MWQU

Here's some of the parts I used when I converted my Schwinn, I don't know the year or model of yours so there may be some slight differences, but but the way your frame is constructed I know they're close

Bottom bracket conversion: https://harriscyclery.net/product/truvativ-bottom-bracket-conversion-american-to-euro-adapter-1335.htm

Crank Parts:
https://www.amazon.com/Sugino-Single-Speed-165mm-130mm/dp/B0068S1YH6/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1510250991&sr=1-1&keywords=sugino+crankset&dpID=41uvhXCdn2L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G37X5Y/ref=twister_B00RNFQ79I?th=1&psc=1

You'll also need a new rear wheel, you can buy a new wheelset but I kept the front to keep the budget down. If you choose to keep the front, look for a 27" rear wheel, just make sure it has a flip flop hub.

Also, consult your local bike shop! you mileage may vary, but my LBS is filled with fixie goons that are more than happy to help you find parts. They may have used parts that'll save you some money.

Damn I honestly don't know. Still kinda noobish when it gets down to all the measurements on my bike.

Here's all the info about the stock components on my bike: http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/thehour.htm

And here's the crankset and bb: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00554174Y

Ah, forgot to post this in the other thread: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M1Q1E38/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Seems to be solid enough so far.

A shitty one off Amazon. It comes with a BB. CyclingDeal Alloy Fixie Single Speed Crankset with BB 48 Teeth 170mm Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M1Q1UF0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_02ojDbJSXEY12

I'm actually doing the same thing. I just built a new road bike and have some parts left so I will be building a budget single speed. I have a carbon frame, mavic wheels with 8,9,10 gear hub (will add this http://amzn.to/1M078HZ). I will also be getting this crankset http://amzn.to/1UCmyp1, this cheap brake setup http://amzn.to/1MSSi0I, some chain and a shorter stem since the frame is pretty large. Most likely will paint everything black with a gold chain. Will be super light since the frameset is carbon.

Really surprised you have replaced cassettes more times than chainrings.

If you only use this for commuting you should probably just leave the gearing how it is.

It'll be cheaper to buy a new crank.
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-FC-M361-Acera-Crankset-170-mm/dp/B002FB2YA6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375899422&sr=8-1&keywords=acera+chainrings+341

I believe this crankset has removable chainrings. You could just buy that and use the BB you have and buy a 1x chainring. https://www.amazon.com/SRAM-S600-Crankset-8-speed-42-32-22T/dp/B003UW9R68/ref=sr_1_8?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1468890053&sr=1-8&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A2765692011

why not change out the crank set for one with more teeth instead? That should be way cheaper. Like this. You'd also have to buy a crank puller

https://www.amazon.com/aucun-Chromed-Vintage-Bicycle-CRANKSHAFT/dp/B07H2F8Q1G/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=kids+crankset&qid=1564011971&s=gateway&sr=8-1

SMLLOW Bike Crank Arm Set Aluminum Alloy Mountain Bike Crank Arm Set 170mm 104 BCD with Bottom Bracket Kit and Chainring Bolts for MTB BMX Road Bicycle (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JHQSWT7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_o7onDb4Y99QFS

I have been running this bb and crankset and it is holding up alright. At $42 it’s not going to be much more than a square taper to replace and it is less like to fail again. It’s at least worth considering. Also, your English is very good, I wouldn’t have known if you didn’t say anything

https://www.amazon.com/CyclingDeal-Alloy-Fixie-Single-Crankset/dp/B00M1Q1E38/ref=sr_1_23?ie=UTF8&qid=1493129316&sr=8-23&keywords=fixed+gear+crankset

this. Its actually really nice for the price. I needed a crankset for cheap, and ended up just buying a whole nother bike off craigslist just so I could steal this crank off it.

I was worried it would be off between each bolt, but the spacing is the same, so it should be able to fit any 5 bolt 94mm bcd ring. Found this rock ring on amazon. Doesn't look like it will fit and it doesn't say anything about bcd. All the tooth fairy guards I saw were 36 tooth or less. I'll keep looking for rock ring. Thanks
Edit: Ordered a never used rock ring. Should work. Wish me luck!

I found this on ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-Deore-FC-M627-B-Double-2x10-Speed-MTB-Bike-Crankset-BB-36-22T-170mm-NEW/133107964742?epid=728094564&hash=item1efdda5b46:g:kIwAAOSwkCddJT4B

and this on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Baosity-Mountain-Crankset-Bracket-Chainring/dp/B07JNC5ZYT/ref=sr_1_23?keywords=24mm+crankset&qid=1562862189&s=gateway&sr=8-23

either will work and keep you on the trail.

Non-mobile: this

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

Thanks! The SRAM 300 comes with a BB:
http://www.amazon.com/SRAM-CR32402-Parent-S300-Courier-Crankset/dp/B00GZJ504G

Looks like the Andel setup is about $25 cheaper overall.

You have a BSA / ISO / English threaded 68mm wide bottom bracket shell.

You currently have a square taper bottom bracket. They come with various lengths of spindles. If you look on the manufacturer's page for any given square taper crankset a little digging should tell you what spindle length is needed to get proper chainline with that crankset.

If you go with an external bearing crankset like the SRAM S-300 Courier (the less expensive 130 BCD version of the SRAM Omnium 144 BCD) the spindle is part of the crankset and not part of the bottom bracket and so there's no need to worry about the bottom bracket dimension (though you do need to watch for English vs Italian vs French threading.)

Mind that S300 is $125-150 with bottom bracket but you'll need to budget for two tools to remove the old crankset and bottom bracket and one tool to install the new bottom bracket.

Most sub $100 cranksets are going to be some variant of the Origin 8 track crankset which is nothing fancy. A bike that inexpensive probably has a crap bottom bracket and would benefit from a Shimano one IF ANYTHING. Possible not, for if it isn't broke there's nothing to fix.

link

http://www.citygrounds.com/aventon/aventon-cordoba-track-frame-3532?color=MATTE_BLACK

http://www.retro-gression.com/product/alpina-f04-track-fork

http://www.amazon.com/SRAM-S300-Courier-Crankset-165mm/dp/B00FA5PPIC

http://www.amazon.com/Charge-Spoon-Saddle-Black-Cromo/dp/B00GJPJ7PO/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1404634859&sr=1-1&keywords=charge+spoon

http://www.amazon.com/FSA-Omega-Compact-Round-Black/dp/B001GSODAS/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1404634799&sr=1-4&keywords=compact+drops

http://www.amazon.com/KMC-K710SL-SuperLite-Bicycle-1-Speed/dp/B001CNC2VY/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1404634840&sr=1-1&keywords=kmc+710sl



This would be solid for 600

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ESK24N4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

40 bucks.

Put a cheap Sugino on my beater recently and no issues so far.
Can't find the one I got anymore
http://www.amazon.com/Sugino-Track-Fixie-Crankset-Pista/dp/B00ESK24N4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1383166044&sr=8-3&keywords=sugino

I was looking at this one on Amazon. First I just wanted to get one that's more "bling" but after I added a freewheel I inspected the chainring teeth and while usable they are somewhat worn by the Previous owner, and I would guess the chainring teeth wear before the rear sprocket. Origin8 Pro Pulsion Single Speed Crankset - 170mm x 46, Square Taper, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ACTJWD0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gj-szbMTCW5ZS

I'm having some difficulty figuring out what fits and doesn't fit, what I actually need, should I replace the BB too? Is the kilo TT stock stuff low end?

How about Sugino?

http://www.amazon.com/Sugino-Single-Speed-165mm-130mm/dp/B0068S1YH6/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1415203910&sr=8-7&keywords=sugino+crankset

You just replace the whole crankset. Take the chainrings off to keep as spares and put the rest of the cranks in the recycle. Get another square taper 104mm BCD chainset like this. It's a potentially expensive mistake but one a lot of beginners to bicycle maintenance make. Just in case you weren't aware, one of the pedals is reverse threaded.

You can replace it yourself but you might need to buy a tool or two.

Are you sure your pedal is damaged? Normally it is just the crank arm that strips as the pedal thread is much harder steel. You might need to use a wire brush to clean out the threads.

SRAM S300 singlespeed, or Omnium, and you'll be good to go.

Is there any way it wouldn't work with my bike? I got a Big Block, will it be just fine?

http://www.amazon.com/SRAM-165mm-Black-Courier-Crankset/dp/B00554174Y

This looks pretty tempting.. I just want to make sure they would be fine with each other

An alternative to these would be the S300 SRAM crankset that would fall closer that price range new but still has great build quality and the external BB. Super stiff. I've ridden both.

so this would work i plan on ordering tonight.
http://www.amazon.com/SRAM-165mm-Black-Courier-Crankset/dp/B00554174Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371339953&sr=8-1&keywords=sram+fixed

Trying to re-thread the crank arm is going to be a difficult thing, involving tapping the threads on the crank up a size and installing a special bushing. Such a procedure is not going to be cheap at a shop (I would expect at least ~$30 in labor charges).

The writing "r 13.05" is likely a manufacturing date code.


With the value of the parts involved, there are two options. One is to find a used square taper crank arm somewhere, or to buy a new crankset. Amazon does have a few models such as the fc-m131 for around $30-40

I guess you have 42T chainwheel. Entry level Shimano 48T cranksets are around $20. You should then probably change the front derailleur as well, and possibly lenghten (i.e. change) the chain too. Not that expensive, but a bit of a hassle.

wow, I just saw amazon lets you select square taper as a filter! Awesome. This makes it alot easier.

Is the SRAM s600 alright weight/durability wise? Seems like it might be a good option. Also Origin 8 and Sinz seem viable. Any opinions on these??

From those pictures I wouldn't try to re-tap those threads, that crank is done unfortunately. Thankfully there are plenty of decent cranks that will work as a replacement, something like this would probably work without having to change your bottom bracket spindle. I would inspect your spindle for any damaged and if you need to it can be replaced for 5-10$.

The only benefit to using a new freewheel would be to get the shifting ramps that old ones don't have. A sunrace should only be 10-15$. The freewheel threads onto the hub in the standard way otherwise they'd unscrew from use.

Edit: You can also source a French-threaded sealed bottom bracket if that frame is old enough to have French threads, check out the Sheldon Brown page on that.

I think this is the issue. I’m using a standard FSA road double, 130mm width.

What do you think the best option is. Get a wider BB let’s say 10mm (to give 6.5 mm clearance). I would have issues in the future fitting a narrow wide chain ring or purchase a new MTB crank.

Like one of these options.

SHIMANO M361 Hybrid Crankset (Black 170mm X 48/38/28T) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002P72TL4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_u79MDbHP4VSZT


https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F233187071459