Best bike drivetrain components according to redditors
We found 706 Reddit comments discussing the best bike drivetrain components. We ranked the 447 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 706 Reddit comments discussing the best bike drivetrain components. We ranked the 447 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
The picture is of a freehub, not a cassette.
You can easily make that a single speed, but not a fixed gear.
Simply get a single cog and spacer kit designed for cassette wheels.
http://www.amazon.com/Conversion-Fixie-Single-Shimano-Adaptor/dp/B006WRW45O/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1413139008&sr=1-3&keywords=single+speed+conversion+kit
You will need to use a chain tensioner, use your existing rear derailleur as a chain tensioner, or have horizontal-enough dropouts to be able to move your rear axle enough to tension your (shortened) chain.
You might want to invest in these. They might not be too pretty, but they give perfect chain tension and alignment.
I don't know why you'd worry about replacing it as the exact part unless its a collector. From what I'm seeing it seems like its unlikely. Freewheels are a consumable part that are going to need replacing over time, only the most anal collectors care about them matching exactly.
For an easy swap, just replace it with a 6spd freewheel. Any shop that thinks that part is hard to find wouldn't have my business for long. It's a direct swap with maybe a little adjustment of the limit screws. The old 600 Arabesque derailleur should handle 28t fine.
You will need this: https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Tourney-Mountain-Bicycle-Derailleur/dp/B00OJZQPDI
And this:
https://www.amazon.com/KMC-Bicycle-Chain-Speed-32-Inch/dp/B000AOA3PS
And some tools or a local bike shop to put it all together.
Also, clean your bike!
You could get a freewheel like this [Shimano MF-TZ31 Tourney Freewheel (14-34T Mega 7 Speed)] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003RLNOKC). There's usually a big step between gears 1 and 2, but singular to what you have now. Why bigger is usually on 10+ speed bikes which isn't worth the upgrade in your case.
I guess that would work, but the only problem is eventually you'll be running a nasty chainline. I only paid $15 for the cog and spacers plus I have some replacement cogs (from old cassettes) for when stuff wears out. Otherwise I'll happily pay the $15 again.
Here's: the cog/spacer kit I got: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006WRW45O/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_gEjTj3QBqwcC3
https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Chain-Tension-Adjuster-Black/dp/B001GPJY1O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466108843&sr=8-1&keywords=chain+tensioner
If you don't have one already, you'll need a chain rivet tool to remove/reinstall the chains. Here is an inexpensive example from Amazon. You can get even cheaper ones at Walmart, if I remember correctly. Park Tool is a pretty solid brand, though and name-brand chain tools can certainly get much more expensive.
And a video on how to use it.
I've used Kmart/Walmart chains on 10-speed bikes before and they've worked OK. I wouldn't put one on my fancy road bike, but that's another story. You can also order higher-quality, but still cheap, chains online. Example.
I second the WD-40 soaking. If the chains are greasy, gasoline works as a cheap solvent (just be careful!). Most chains that just have surface rust can be rescued.
Best luck on the project bikes, I'm sure the kids will be thrilled!
Nice find! I even raced one of these for a bit. It seems like it's been sitting for a while. I would replace:
I'm not a mechanic, but you probably just need a new freewheel
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Single-Bicycle-Freewheel-Sprocket/dp/B001GSSIIG
And a tool to take the old one off and put the new one on
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Freewheel-Remover-Bikes/dp/B000AO9S68
it sounds like the pawls aren't engaging properly, probably rusty and/or gunky inside the freewheel.
Your freewheel is broken, you need a new one like: https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Tourney-7Spd-14-28T-Freewheel/dp/B003B8JYPU/
If you want to do the repair yourself you're going to also need a freewheel tool like: https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Freewheel-Remover-Freewheels/dp/B001B6RGXG
And some grease when you thread the new one onto the wheel.
Here's a good guide on how to do that: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/freewheel-removal-and-installation
If I were you, I'd just stop now and save your money for a better bike. The Schwinn Varsity weighs 42 lbs, or about 12-18lbs over what even a generic chromoly framed 80s road bike would weigh, and given that you can pick those up pretty cheaply on craigslist, I'd trade it in and go that route.
But assuming you're already sentimentally attached to this one, despite the fact that it weighs about two full gallon milk jugs more than a bike needs to, you're going to need to start with a 1 piece to 3 piece adapter, like this American to Euro BMX adapter.
Then add a generic road double crankset in your desired length and the appropriately sized bottom bracket, and a fresh chain cut to the right size.
Other than that, it's basically a question of taking the old parts off and putting the new parts on and transferring the pedals over.
>Change out the old cassette with a new Shimano HG-50-7-- will this even work on a road bike? 12-28
That depends on your rear derailler, but it will probably work.
>I need a chain to go with that.. thinking Shimano CN-HG-70-CS
half the price and the reuseable master link is nice.
Take a look here for your cheap CXP 22 needs. The cxp22/2200 (in silver) is $109 with ~$17 shipping vs Bicyclewheels' $145 + $50 shipping.
OK, so you've got a Shimano TX71 crank up front. That's pretty low-end, and I don't think the rings are replaceable, so if they're worn out you'll need a new crankset.
The rear set of gears is called a "cassette" (in your case, older bikes had freewheels). It's a 7 speed Sun Race 11-32.
The chain is chain...no big deal on that as long as it matches your cassette. 7 speed chain should be used with 7 speed cassettes. 8 speed chain is the exact same as 7. 7/8 are the same width, etc. 9 speed chain is narrower, weaker, and wears out faster, and it costs more than 7/8. 10 speed chain is again narrower, weaker, etc. And again for 11. Anything above 8 speeds is silly, especially on anything other than actual racing bikes. It's just more money and trouble, so please don't buy in to the marketing gimmick of 10/11 speed "upgrades", I promise you they won't actually make your ride better.
My opinion said, let's move on to replacing these worn out parts.
Let's start with the crank. You'll need some specialized tools to work on this, but they're not too expensive and a worthwhile investment. You'll need a square-taper crank puller, such as the Park CCP-22. That's needed to remove the cranks.
Next you'll need a tool to remove the bottom bracket (the bearings/spindle bit the cranks attach to. Yours is probably pretty worn out. The thing with BBs is they come in many lengths, such as 122mm, 118mm, etc. The length is determined by the crankset you use, not by your frame, so if you replace your crankset, chances are you'll need a different BB length. Also, many newer cranksets have built-in BBs, since, like I said, BB and cranks are pretty tied together. You'll need to get your old BB out, and you'll need a BB tool for that. Chances are your BB would be one compatible with the Shimano 20 tooth 'Isis' style: BBT-22. You can tell if this is the case by looking at your bike. Behind the crank you'll see a the outside edge of the bottom bracket, if it's got a bunch of small indentations like this, then it's an Isis style one.
Now you'll have the old crank and BB removed. Next you'll need to get a replacement. I'm not sure your budget, so I'll just go with some 'middle of the road' recommendations. This is what I have one some of my bikes: Race Face 22-32-44 Crankset and BB. This is a pretty good deal, since it's a fairly nice crankset AND it comes with its own BB, so you don't have to get that separate. The BB included is an outboard bearing style, which will be a bit different looking than your old one, and require another tool, as it's not compatible with the BBT-22. It requires an outboard bearing wrench like the BBT-29. Even after purchasing this extra tool, the Race Face crankset is an exceptional deal.
Alternatively, you can source out a square-taper style crankset replacement (like your old one), and if you luck out, your old BB will be in ok enough shape and be the right length. Chances are that's not the case, and you'll need to replace the BB too, and end up spending just as much as that RaceFace. The one minor issue with the Race Face one is it's slightly smaller than your stock one, and I don't know if your T30 is one of the ones with a cover over the chain, and if so, there may be a slight gap if you used a slightly smaller crank. If you don't have a chain cover, this wouldn't be an issue, and going from 48 to 44 would probably be an improvement, unless you often ride really really fast.
Next you'll need a rear cassette. Your stock cassette was an '11-32'. This means your smallest sprocket was 11 teeth and largest was 32. When combined with a 22/32/44 crankset, a cassette with 32t as the largest gear is a real 'stump puller'. The 22:32 ratio is probably MUCH lower than you'll ever use, unless you routinely climb mountains on your bike. I'd recommend something a bit 'tighter' such as 11-23 or 11-25. Unless you're REALLY fast and routinely in your largest gear in the front and smallest in the rear, going over 25MPH, I'd also suggest not getting a cassette with an 11t small gear. I'm pretty fit and very very rarely 'spin out' my fastest gear, which is 44:12 for me. 44:11 is a good bit faster a gear, but I'd guess you don't actually need that sort of gear. The choice is up to you, but I recommend these cassettes: 11-24 or 12-24 and 11-28 or 12-28. Dropping the range down from 11-32 to 12-24 means you'll shift your front gears a bit more often, and in return, you'll have a better spread of gearing options, with more usable gears and less duplicate gears. I highly doubt you use more than 44:12 and less than 22:24 ratios as it is, as those are pretty damn fast and pretty damn low gears.
You'll need a cassette tool to remove your old cassette and install the new one. FR-5 Cassette Tool, and you'll also need a chain whip: SR-1 Chain Whip.
As for the chain, any 7 or 8 speed chain will work. I recommend this one: KMC 72. Shimano chains are GARBAGE and wear out way faster than other brands. SRAM chains are ok. Wipperman are good and KMC is good.
All of these tools have videos on their use on Park's website, and are available on Amazon for reasonable prices. If you want to save a few bucks, there's some non-Park versions of said tools for cheaper. I have a Topeak brand chain whip, for instance, and it's every bit as good as Park's.
Let me know if you have any other questions. Hopefully this long post helps.
6 speed cassette
i think this would not need a new derailleur, although you may need a new chain (and it's a good idea to change chain and freewheel together anyway).
changing a freewheel is a little tricky - look for videos on youtube (search for something like "change freewheel without chainwhip"). fit the new chain to the right length (don't just copy the old length - see here).
there's not much difference in feel between a larger rear sprocket and a smaller front one if the ratio is the same. it does feel slightly different (i am not sure why, but one or the other feels slightly smoother, i think just from the different vibrations you get as the chain moves over the different size gears). but in general you can trust the maths.
[edit: deleted a second option, as it was a cassette, not a freewheel]
Had the same issue with a DB Hook. If it’s that cheap plastic piece above and below your chain ring, don’t bother with their chain guides, get a proper narrow wide chain ring and if you really want to, there’s this guide on amazon.
Origin8 Torqlite UL Chain Guide, Mini Clamp On (31.8 - 34.9mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ZTLV9W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_U.CdBbYGY2MRT
Raceface makes a relatively cheap, well made narrow-wide chain ring.
RaceFace 104mm Single Chain Ring, Black, 32T 9/10/11 Speed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3FG5EY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_waDdBbE7C18PJ
The key compatibility items:
Edit: Check the specifics (especially the rear spacing) but this wheel might be what you need.
If you get that wheel you will still need the freewheel, which should spin right on, as well as a tire (you have the specs), a tube, and don't forget the rim strip.
I am about to do this, and was considering this little spacer and cog kit.
I'm curious if anyone can endorse this as a decent option, suggest a different kit, or suggest buying spacers and a cog separately.
I haven't seen something quite like this and am open to ideas.
One small thing to note with respect to other replies is that your bike appears to have a freewheel and not a cassette. KMC Z51 is probably fine and is about as cheap as a chain can get.
With that sort of setup, many people just run them until it stops performing well and then replace the freewheel and chain together. You can replace both for the cost of a decent 8 or 9 speed chain. In any event, as someone has already said, it's probably best to ride it until the winter is over and changing it in the spring.
I bet it's seized in there. If the vice grips fail and the screw is too mangled, cut it off and just use the bigger chain tensioner grease up all the threads so you don't have a similar problem with things seizing in the future.
i've got a franken-gravel bike that's like this - i took the big chainring off and put the small one on the outermost side of the crank (where the big one was) to help keep the chain line straight.
if you can manage to find a 'narrow-wide' chain ring - it's a solid investment, helps to keep the chain on.
I don't have a front der, so I used this (https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Torqlite-UL-Chain-Guide/dp/B008ZTLV9W/ref=pd_rhf_ee_s_rp_c_0_9?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B008ZTLV9W&pd_rd_r=2b612691-9413-4481-b9a3-7bdbcd0d8d19&pd_rd_w=Gk3jV&pd_rd_wg=9HtN6&pf_rd_p=87f46b45-938f-430f-a8e4-ecf1b1b39902&pf_rd_r=4H18PQ2X8TQ7MSQ0KK85&psc=1&refRID=4H18PQ2X8TQ7MSQ0KK85) in conjunction with the narrow-wide ring to keep the chain from bouncing off
it's a great idea - consider a mountain bike cassette and a small chainring to help you with the climbs. The big thing I have to deal with is not shifting under load, when the chain comes off - it's off. Without the front der. there's nothing to help you get the chain back on the ring without stopping and doing it with your hands
The newer Kryptonite design with the nylon strap is much better than the old design with the plastic strap. I refused to use the plastic ones because I heard some terrible horror stories and it seemed like a time-bomb because it wasn't secure. I have been really happy with the new design, and have had zero problems since installing it last summer (and I commute everyday). I just had to tighten the nylon strap twice after it stretched a bit.
First off: watch out with "26 inch" wheels. There are no fewer than 5 different, incompatible "26 inch" sizes which you are likely to encounter!.
Since 26 x 1-3/8 wheels are not used on modern bikes, your options are going to be a bit limited. You definitely want an aluminum alloy wheel (instead of steel). Here is one in the right size and material, that accepts a thread-on freewheel. It is a bolt-on wheel, however (not quick-release compatible). The seller does not indicate what the axle length is, but I think only one axle length was common for 26x1-3/8 wheels. Good luck!
Really hard to help you on the gearing situation without pictures. What kind of shifters does it have? Is the rear shifter indexed?
You may be able to just buy a new 6-speed thread-on freewheel, if the shifter is not indexed (or is indexed for 6 speeds). They are not expensive, and can be installed without a tool. You'll need to replace the chain too, btw (the chain and rear gears wear together). I would prefer this option, if at all possible.
If you simply must keep the old freewheel with bizarro gears, you'll have to figure out which of the various freewheel removal tools it takes. You'll also need something to apply serious leverage to the tool, as freewheels are tightened by the force of pedaling. A bench vise is best. Plenty of youtube videos demonstrating the removal technique.
There are different diameters. Most cartridge BBs are 68mm, with some 73mm.
I think this is your only option.
>When I took it in for servicing they slapped a new chain on it, that was just last week so I'd assume that's good.
Absolutely. In fact, that fits with my freewheel theory: chains and the gears wear out together, especially as the chain gets more worn. A new chain and worn cassette can result in the skipping you described. Some bike shops insist on changing both at the same time, just in case.
> I've done chain replacements before so I know how to do that too. What information do I need to make sure I get a cassette/freewheel part that fits my bike?
If the freewheel is original, I bet it's this one. Any 7 speed freewheel will work, but it's easiest if you match the model with what you have so the great ratios are the same, you only need one tool, and the chain can stay the same length. The model should be printed on it somewhere.
Before you spend money on a cassette, it's worth making sure it's not a gear indexing issue either. That's free, just a quick twist of the inline adjuster.
I scored this Rockhopper for $50! Now I’m looking to modernize pretty much the whole thing. Please critique my build list below. Would you get anything different, or better, or maybe anything else that would be better value? Did I miss anything? Do you think all of this will work together? It will be my adventure bike for bike packing, gravel, off road touring.
FOMTOR 25.4 stem 60mm 35 Degree Bike Handlebar Stem Riserhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G71CZG6
UPANBIKE Road Mountain Bike Bicycle Stem Riser Adapter 1 1/8" φ22.2mm https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LLR8PR
Action 1-1/8" W/Adjuster Black Cable Hanger Fronthttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XCSKWCQ
KMC X9L 9 Speed Chain Gold Coatedhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789HPV7M
Wheel Set 26 x 1.5, Mavic x M117, Deore M530 9Sp Hub, Blk SS Spokes, 32Hhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0033H53VI
Shimano Deore 9-Speed Mountain Bicycle Rear Derailleur - RD-M591https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OWPRLI
Maxxis DTH 26 X 2.15 60A Kevlar Blackhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XIT4YS
XCSOURCE MTB Mountain Bike Crankset Aluminum Bicycle Crank Sprocket and Bottom Bracket Kit 170mm CS400https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWXUV7I
RaceFace 104mm Single Chain Ringhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3FG6ZW
​
Edit: Adding Shifters and Cassette
SHIMANO Deore SL-M590 9-Speed Shift Lever
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKVJF8Y/
JGbike Sunrace 8 9 10 Speed MTB Cassette 11-40T 1 Wide Ratio Including 22mm Extender - for SRAM Shimano-Type splined freehub Body
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRLWHEO
This might work for you. Its smallest gear is 13t but does have a 28 T gear. They make a 14-34T as well.
Shimano Tourney 7-Speed Freewheel
New Rear Wheel - had a 6 speed before so had to get a new wheel to fit the 11 speed and just shoved it in there to spread the dropouts.
New rear mech, cassette, shifter, chainring, and chain SLX m7000 - may or may not be real Shimano.....
New Crankset and Bottom Bracket - came wrapped in chinese newspaper. But.... it all works wonderfully!!!
3 or 4?
I donno. Didn't count it.
This was a very cheap motor. Higher-end motors tend to be more efficient and thus will spin more. They generate less eddy losses.
​
Another thing to do is make sure that the wheel is seated 100% down. One of the crappy things about axles that use nut instead of quick releases is that as you tighten down the nut on one side it will 'push' the wheel partially out of the slots due to the rotation and friction. Older fashioned bikes that used nuts and threaded axles instead of QR axles would often have some sort of device, like a hanger that fits into a small hole above the axle that would hold the axle in place as you tightened.
For single-speeds in the back they would have chain tensioners that were little washers attached to bolts that would be used to draw the wheel back and hold it in place as you tightened the axle nut. But those only really work on Fork ends.
So it's very easy to get the wheel in a bit cockeyed. What I do is get the wheel snug while upside down or off the ground working on it. Then I get it up right on the ground and make sure to sit or lean or hang of the bike to put a lot of pressure so the axle doesn't try to move while I tightened.
​
Try getting to a quiet area and putting your head near the wheel and just push the wheel back and forth, like half of a rotation. See if the wheel drags more in certain positions. And listen to see if you can hear any rubbing or scraping noises. The motor should be very silent.
Marlin 5 looks like a 7 speed. So pretty much any old chain will work fine.
https://www.amazon.com/KMC-X8-93-Bicycle-Chain-7-3mm/dp/B001MXQHPG/
*edit, this one is $2 cheaper.
https://www.amazon.com/KMC-Z-72-7-8sp-chain-Brown/dp/B001CN6QA2
Wiggle.com might be cheaper but here are amazon links. This is a simple parts list. In addition to cables.
Shimano Sora R3000-GS Medium Cage Rear Derailleur Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K5C70T6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NAQ1AbV85X6N3
KMC KMC023 X9.93 Bicycle Chain (9-Speed, 1/2 x 11/128-Inch, 116L, Silver/Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AYJF2E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9BQ1AbT1P3155
Shimano FC-2450 50/34T Double 8-Speed Claris Crankset, Silver, 170mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CSYP2CC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BDQ1Ab774ETJ1
SRAM PG950 11-32T 9-Speed Cassette https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001A3DMBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rEQ1AbRJTATWS
If the bike you have fits you and hasn't been terribly abused it might be worth just keeping it. 550 is going to buy another entry level-ish bike. $200 in tools and parts can fix most issues, and you can keep up on your own maintenance from then on.
A 9 speed chain and chain tool. 30 bucks
[Brake and Shifter Cables and housing ]
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXV23A7/) and cable cutter $50
9 speed cassette HG400 and Lockring tool $35
Cone Wrenches 13/14 13/15 15/16 17/18 $20 for repacking hub grease $11
allen wrenches $11
None of this is very difficult to do if you watch a youtube or 2. The hardest part is getting the derailleurs working again, and that isn't really that bad.
Upgrading it will be quite expensive. However, it'll provide you with a wealth of knowledge, frustration and, at the same time, fun.
Depending on your existing hub, you may or may not need a new hub to put your new cassette on.
With a wide enough range of gears on your rear cassette you can get away with a single chainring, so there will be no need for a new crankset/front derailleur/front shift lever.
As /u/fclbr said, you can choose downtube shifters in order to keep your existing brake levers. There are also bar-end shifters, and if you go for a single chainring, it won't be that expensive.
All-in-all, consider if this bike's right for you, size and geometry-wise, as your decision may be a bit rash. If it is, then I'd say go for it.
Rear derailleur - $20
Cassette - $20 - I recommend going for the 34t max sprocket. It'll allow you to stick with a single chainring
Bar-end shifters - $55 - they are 9-sp indexed, but they also work in friction mode, which allows you to freely adjust your gear
Downtube shifters - $14
Cables/outer cables are negligible costs.
It looks like your U-lock has the bracket to connect to a mount like this one. Do you still have the mount? It looks like you have room to mount it on the non-drive side of the seat tube like I did on mine.
I believe lots of bikes were under the Technium label, from road bikes to mountain bikes.
Key point is how many cogs at the rear. At a guess, 7 or so, and most chains for >= 7 gears should work. KMC are good, and inexpensive.
However, if your chain broke, it's likely to mean that it was worn way past a reasonable max. A worn chain means worn cogs, and putting a fresh chain on worn cogs often means skipping. You may have to buy a new cassette/freewheel, and possibly new chainrings. Or find a source of partially worn chains to match your worn cogs.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chain-wear.html
Ok interesting. Considering your current high gear of 14 tooth and 7 speed configuration, you probably have a freewheel system on your rear wheel, as opposed to a cassette, two different ways of mounting the rear cogs. You probably won't be able to get an 11 tooth cog that some have suggested on your wheels as it is. There are 7-speed freewheels with a 13 tooth high cog, which could give you almost 8% more top end if you need it, though, and they aren't too expensive. Those freewheels need to be replaced every so often, maybe swap it in next time you replace the chain. Swapping out the front chainring is possibly an option, but it is more complicated because of a lot of factors, and possibly not really a practical option for you without replacing a lot of stuff. (RD Chain Wrap Capacticy, Chain Length, Crank BCD, FD Max capacity and position, ask your bike shop)
I think that if you are really enjoying the fun and utility of riding, you could be well served by eventually buying a nicer bike. You will gain a significant amount of speed from a bike that is a little lighter and more efficient with some better quality parts, and ultimately for less money than trying to upgrade a lot of things on yours. The current sweet spot imo for price to performance ratio for a general purpose bike is around the $650-$800 hybrid range, with 9x2 or 9x3 gearing and probably disc brakes. You can probably eventually pick one up used for 60% new price if you keep an eye on local classifieds.
This Shimano 6sp freewheel cluster is a good option for your driveline in terms of durability and shift quality. No real need to go to 7sp as the incremental difference isn't worth the added strain on the rear axle (7sp freewheels place extra loads on the rear hub/axle assemby).
One piece cranks are pretty easy to work on so they are a good intro to working on bikes. The only tool you need is a big adjustable wrench and some grease to get them up and running.
Six speed is the correct terminology. Bike speeds are typically expressed in one of two ways, the amount of rear cogs multipled by the number of front chain rings (7 in the rear 3) or by the amount of rear cogs.
If you decide to replace the chain, freewheel (rear cog set) and chain ring you will need the following, chain, freewheel, and example chain ring The chain ring you get needs to say that it works with chains that are 1/2 x 3/32. If you want to be anal about this, you can count how many teeth are on the small cog and big cog of your old freewheel and get a new one that matchs that range along with getting a chain wheel that has the same amount of teeth as your old one. This is likely to preserve your old gearing. This is not a huge deal for casual use, though it's something to keep in mind.
You will need a freewheel remover tool to get your old freewheel off. There are about ten different ones, so I would suggest going to bike shop and having them remove it, or have them tell you which tool you need. You don't need a tool to install a new freewheel.
Also, to install the new chain you will need a chain breaker.
However, I still doubt you need to replace all that crap. I'd start by fixing the bottom bracket, then seeing if that solves the crunching and chain jumping problem.
LHT Frame - $520 after tax
Chukker Wheels - $85 x 2
Tires Schwalbe Marathon Plus RLX 700 x 45 C Bicycle Tire - $54 x 2
Alloy Headset Spacers - $7.89 x 2
Shift Levers - $60
Chain - $10
Brake Cables - $10
Brakes - $15 x 2
Extra Long Shift Cables - $6
Derailleur - $24
Cassette - $17
Crankset - $40
Spindle - $24
Headset - $45
Seatpost - $20
Brooks Saddle - $145
Rack - $35
Brooks Panniers - $150 x 2
Brooks Bar Tape - $65
Tools
Saw Guide - $41.36
Starnut Setter - $22
I just use the mounting bracket that came with my kryptonite lock (this thing: https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Transit-Flexframe-U-Bicycle-Bracket/dp/B005YPKLLE/). It works well enough.
I bought this one; https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001AYJF2E?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Its 116 links. It's also worth checking on the cable tension and making sure your derailleur is aligned and indexed correctly.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001IORDH0?pc_redir=1411016731&robot_redir=1
If the chain was slipping, the derailleur probably needed an adjustment. The freewheel does not look worn to me
I'm actually doing the same thing. I just built a new road bike and have some parts left so I will be building a budget single speed. I have a carbon frame, mavic wheels with 8,9,10 gear hub (will add this http://amzn.to/1M078HZ). I will also be getting this crankset http://amzn.to/1UCmyp1, this cheap brake setup http://amzn.to/1MSSi0I, some chain and a shorter stem since the frame is pretty large. Most likely will paint everything black with a gold chain. Will be super light since the frameset is carbon.
Damn I honestly don't know. Still kinda noobish when it gets down to all the measurements on my bike.
Here's all the info about the stock components on my bike: http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/thehour.htm
And here's the crankset and bb: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00554174Y
I meant FlexFrame. They're cheap-ish.
I bought most of my tools off amazon, treefortbikes, and Performance bike.
From what I can tell from the product page for that bike, it does look like a sealed cartridge BB so it probably is a square taper. You need to find out the spindle length so that you can preserve the chainline. After you get the BB out, it should be stamped on there, it should say something like 68x___mm. Once you've got that measurement, buy one of these, they're solid.
For a square taper you're going to need a crank puller, a bottom bracket tool, and a socket wrench. There are a bunch of guides out there, I know park tool has some decent ones so check on their site.
If you're doing any decent offroading and wearing regular shoes you'll really benefit from a nice pair of platform pedals with pins. When I'm not riding my clipless pedals, I put on my Wellgo MG-1 platforms, they're great and inexpensive.
Yeah, they can be shin grinders if you're not careful but you'll have more control, power and crash less.
Also, I recommend buying a KMC chain. Less expensive, comes with a quick link, and they make the chains for Shimano/etc to begin with.
Good news! I only need one wheel, the rear:
http://i.imgur.com/Wi2krBs.jpg
So I need a cassette and a wheel. Haven't taken the bike out of my car yet or done any clean up, but I'm probably going to pick up a new saddle as well. That or reupholster the one thats there (wouldn't be my first time reupholstering, though in the past the seats were from cars!)
The front wheel is good, the tire is flat. I'll check tomorrow to see if the tube is any good, or if I need to replace it.
As far as the rear wheel, any reason I shouldn't order something like this wheel paired with this freewheel cassette?
Cheap, but seems to have worked out for like trail riding for others (which is about as hardcore as I'll get).
Thanks again for your help so far!
Take the back wheel off and spin the freewheel (the group of cogs) if they feel gritty are hard to spin, you can replace them...they should still click when they spin and lock with the wheel when spun in on direction, but if they dont feel particularly smooth, abouth $25 will get you the freewheel and the tool to replace it.
so this would work i plan on ordering tonight.
http://www.amazon.com/SRAM-165mm-Black-Courier-Crankset/dp/B00554174Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371339953&sr=8-1&keywords=sram+fixed
Thanks for the info, so should I stay with the freewheel or switch to cassette since I am replacing both parts, cassette seems cheaper but I am not sure if it will work?
Am I on the right track with these setups below?
Freewheel:
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-MF-HG37-Tourney-Freewheel-13-28T/dp/B001IORDH0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1463427163&sr=8-3&keywords=shimano+freewheel
http://www.amazon.com/Sta-Tru-Silver-Freewheel-Release-26X1-5-Inch/dp/B004YJ2O48/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463427274&sr=8-1&keywords=26+inch+bike+rim+rear
Cassette
http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Nutted-Cruiser-Freewheel-1-75-Inch/dp/B003RLL5VM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463427463&sr=8-2&keywords=26+inch+bike+rim+rear+cassette
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-CS-HG20-7-Speed-Cassette-12-28T/dp/B003ZM9QQY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1463427489&sr=8-4&keywords=shimano+7+speed+cassette
what about this one:
http://www.amazon.com/KMC-Bicycle-6-7-Speed-32-Inch-Silver/dp/B001CN6QAC?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Not totally clear on what you mean when you say "wheels are scratched and slashed", I'm guessing you mean the tires are damaged?
The front tire is probably the most important thing for safety if it's damaged, with the brake cables close behind.
So my budget for fixing all that would be (assuming it's the tires and not the wheels that's damaged):
New:
Total cost: $90-100. Only special tool you'd need is a chain tool ($9) to adjust the length of the chain.
As far as I know you can do this 2 ways: get a new rear hub which is a single speed or a flip flop hub which has one side for single gear use and one side for fixed gear use, or you can one of those single gear cogs that you mount on to an existing cassette hub it's a converter sort of thing.
Now, there's no need to get a completely new rear wheel, but if you're re-using the rim, you'll have to take it apart to mount a new hub. It's simpler to just get a rim with a single gear hub already installed. Or get the previously mentioned adapter for your cassette.
Overall, I would say it's easier (not cheaper) to get a wheel that's made for single speed use. Also, keep in mind the spacing of your rear-drop outs as different speeds often have different sizes of dropout.
If it's the 28 TPI American size one piece, this is the adapter you're talking about. Going to need to remove the pressed in cups and then press in the adapter. After that OP can put any standard 68mm BSA BB in as far as I know.
largest I could find on ebay NOS. By no means affordable.
If the shifting is friction (i. e. doesn't click for each cog), you can replace the rear wheel with anything 6 or 7 speeds, check out craigslist and you can probably get a decent old wheel with freewheel for about 20~30 usd.
Upon further reading it seems that freewheels have a standard ISO threading, therefore, again, if you're ok with friction shifting, you can use any old freewheel, even a new one. Not completely sure about the spacing and/or overall width though, so, give it a try.
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-7-Speed-Tourney-Freewheel-Replacement/dp/B003B8JYPU?psc=1
it uses this in the rear so i guess its a freewheel?
To be honest, I'm not really sure what a chain tensioner is. I just know the guy in the video was referring to one.
The conversion kit I saw was this: http://www.amazon.com/Conversion-Fixie-Single-Shimano-Adaptor/dp/B006WRW45O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405727927&sr=8-1&keywords=flip+flop+hub
...which I'm only now realizing does not convert in the direction that I'm talking about or want.
The frame set is an older Fuji. I tried to track down the year, but couldn't get the model/serial to line up, so I think it's anywhere between mid to late 90s to mid 2000s (it has the older logo).
It has the fork, and I THINK a headset... though I'm not sure. Is that what goes on top of the handlebars, or under them?
An alternative to these would be the S300 SRAM crankset that would fall closer that price range new but still has great build quality and the external BB. Super stiff. I've ridden both.
I can understand that a $20 investment in a set of chain tensioning devices will be worth it, they’ll give over your axle and to the back of the drop outs to keep the tension and help you long term
Check the link below for a decent example
Origin8 Chain Tension Adjuster, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GPJY1O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dFYDDb060VP4Z
i bought aftermarket chain tensioners for my dirt jumper from origin8 for $10 on amazon and they are working fine
Hmm you are right, that picture does show a 1 piece crankset, though this one on the Fuji site shows a 3 piece: http://www.fujibikes.com/usa/bikes/cruiser-comfort/beach-cruiser/cape-may
If you have a one piece, you can use this adapter to convert to three piece https://www.amazon.com/Truvativ-00-6415-027-000-American-To-Euro-Bmx-Adapter/dp/B000VT550K
Most chain tensioners are not designed for wide ranging chain slack, but a rear derailleur is designed for that. I would recommend using one even if you don't run gears on the back
if the chain is getting slack every two weeks then maybe the wheel is moving in the dropout? it shouldn't stretch that much that fast
If the pins and internals of the chain are rusted, when the rust is removed there will be some slop. I do agree that if the whole drivetrain is worn, your better off just freeing the chain so you don't have to replace the cassette too. But if the cassette isn't worn, I'd just replace the chain.
Without getting into the LBS debate, I buy chains online. My old LBS charged $40 for an 8 speed chain. They're less than $10 online. I'm not gonna make my college student friends pay $30 extra to support the LBS. $10 speed chains have a similar markup as well. I find many shops don't carry the basic KMC chains which I prefer.
http://www.amazon.com/KMC-7-8sp-chain-Silver-Brown/dp/B001CN6QA2/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1413374754&sr=1-1&keywords=8+speed+chain
http://www.amazon.com/KMC-10-Speed-116-Links-Bicycle-28-Inch/dp/B001AYOP9M/ref=sr_1_11?s=cycling&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1413374848&sr=1-11&keywords=10+speed+chain
This might work. It’s not a chain guard, but will keep the chain on.
https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Torqlite-UL-Chain-Guide/dp/B008ZTLV9W
OK this is slightly confused. How many cogs are on your freewheel cluster?
I'm guessing 5, making your bike a 10 speed using the two chainrings at the front (2x5). This freewheel would usually be replaced with a similar cluster (5 cog) although you could go 6 without too many issues, like this Shimano unit although best to check if your rear derailleur can handle 28t.
Yes. Higher top gears for faster speeds. I definitely shift using the front too, but only once. It was set on the hardest gear, the front that is, and never changed again. For the riding I've been doing, on and off road, I've never needed to adjust the front. Anything less than the hardest gear, is not nearly hard enough to pedal.
 
Cassette vs freewheel. That was valuable information dude! That's the kind of shit I miss easily. Thank you! I'm going to attach an image of my existing cassette/freewheel and perhaps you can tell exactly what it is. I watched a few videos, and all of them require disassembly to tell what kind it is. Both types look very similar.. at least to me they do. Images: https://imgur.com/a/gy81ho7
 
I'm seeing a bunch of tires for sale, but some of them are "foldable" and others aren't. Does that simple mean it isn't a slick? Or I can fold it for packing?
 
I purchased my bike from a couple of scumbags who own a store in Montreal. They definitely took advantage of the fact that I didn't know much about bikes. Ugh.
 
What do you think of this: https://www.probikekit.ca/bicycle-tyres/vittoria-peyote-folding-mtb-tyre/11436100.html It is the best deal I can find right now, half price. Or this: https://www.sportchek.ca/categories/shop-by-sport/cycling/bike-parts/bike-tires-tubes/product/schwalbe-nobby-nic-275-foldable-tire-332007671.html#332007671=332007683 If I look hard enough, seems like I can find a tire under $40CAD, which isn't bad. Just not sure about the quality. I'm not a hardcore biking, but during season, I do bike almost every single day. So..
 
Based on this: https://www.cycosports.be/en/product/thv047036/ I currently have a 7 gear freewheel, which is pretty much what I'm stuck with because of the existing gear shifting system, right? Which I guess kind of makes life easier having less options.
 
When looking at freewheels, is the "teeth" the "gear ratio"? Or are they different? Is this something I need to pay attention to, or will any 7 speed work? Like this, it has a 14-28 teeth: https://www.amazon.ca/Shimano-MF-TZ21-14-28-Teeth-Freewheel/dp/B003EQ71S6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541251634&sr=8-1&keywords=7+speed+freewheel But my existing one has a 13-34 ratio.. what does that mean?
 
As for the inner tube.. do I just get something that matches the tire? Will the specs be as easy as 27.5x2.10? Like this: https://www.canadabicycleparts.com/evo-enduro-1-35-1-45mm-tube-10704
I'm no expert, but a lot of that price will depend on what kind of cog set and chain you're getting!
You need to make sure it's the right kind/size of chain for the job (OCB can help with that too as they offer them for sale), but chains for not-super-fancy-racing-bikes range from $12-$50 retail (usually around the lower end of that range, say $15-25 being fairly typical).
What set of cogs you get will depend as well on what quality and range of gears you want and what's compatible. For my old bike's freewheel (freewheels are cogs that come as one complete piece vs modern cogs stacked on a cassette - freewheels are generally only seen on old 70's and 80's era bikes), I paid a little under $20 but if you're getting a high end cassette, you can easily spend $100. More basic ones run say $25-$60 on average (ala https://www.mec.ca/en/products/cycling/bike-components/drive-train/cassettes-and-freewheels/c/828).
Shop time at OCB is $20/hr. If it's your first time doing it and you need a lot of help, you're probably looking at an hour (if experienced should be more like 15-20 mins, though maybe longer if you're changing things vs straight replacing things and need to tweak your shifting to match). So $20 plus let's say you snag a $15 chain plus $30 cassette (cogs) after tax then you're looking around $65-ish at OCB? So say $45-70 depending on what you want/need/how long it takes you but something in that ballpark for non-fancy things. So $80 to get a shop to do it sounds fair if they're including parts.
So now I feel like a jerk because I know they USED to, but I can't find it. Maybe they stopped making it. Whatever.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006WRW45O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_guEJBb3S7NVTP
This should work for you; or something similar. I like it because you can align your sprocket and chainring so there's no rub or noise from lateral play. Will take some finesse to get completely silent.
I have this on my commuter and it's solid. http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-MF-TZ20-14-28-Teeth-Freewheel/dp/B003EQ71QI
Haha, yeah I took the advice on replacing the freewheel seriously just in case.
Thanks for the knowledge. I haven't considered this replacement up to now. I might give it a shot to keep the bike crisp and functional as well as getting my mechanic skills up with the experience.
Here is a follow up question, would a 7 speed like this fit or would the extra gear take up too much space?
As everyone already said, you need a new freewheel.
I cant tell if thats a 6 or 7 speed freewheel, but here is the 6 speed and
here is the 7 speed part you want.
and you need this to get it off.
There are a million freewheel replacement videos on youtube that you can watch to see how its done. Once you get the old one off ( and it will be a bitch to get off... most freewheels are) popping on the new one is stupid easy.
Oh hey, I was in the same boat. I swapped over to 1x from 3x at the front and my chain would fall off the front ring in rough sections. I tossed one of these on the front https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Torqlite-Chain-Guide-31-8-34-9mm/dp/B008ZTLV9W?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2 , and once I got it set up super close to the chagrining it did its job. No more issues with the chain popping off, and cheaper than a new derailer with a clutch.
Is there any way it wouldn't work with my bike? I got a Big Block, will it be just fine?
http://www.amazon.com/SRAM-165mm-Black-Courier-Crankset/dp/B00554174Y
This looks pretty tempting.. I just want to make sure they would be fine with each other
> there is a weird issue with the rear wheel slipping out and rubbing against the fram which no bike shop has been able to really fix, been to 2 shops, multiple mechanics, 4 quick releases and 2 different security skewers and nothing really seems to work all that well
You have horizontal dropouts? if yes, then this slipping issue should be easily fixed with a pair of "chain tugs". Put that term into amazon and you should find a few dozen different models, for example this model. I am not sure which model fits your bike but there are so many that you should be able to figure out a fitting pair. I used some when I had the same issue and it fixed the problem.
> The bike I have now has 27x1.24 wheels on it so when I do get a new bike (whenever that might be) i won't be able to bring the tires with.
Yeah, then it doesn't make much sense to invest a lot of money in this.
Wait...I think I used the wrong term. The chainguard you refer to, I'm thinking, is the plastic disc, about the size of the chainwheel.
I meant to say a chain guide. Like this. As far as I know the BBS02 comes with a chainring chainguard but does not come with a chain guide.
This is the holder I got. Should fit the evolution just fine. It comes with 2 sizes of the clip to put on your lock.
SRAM S300 singlespeed, or Omnium, and you'll be good to go.
I'm thinking this is the part I need to replace. This is what's kind of wobbly: http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-SF-1200-Single-Speed-Freewheel/dp/B001GSSIIG/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=8GBDM6T90RO6&coliid=I3LLVFXCWL2V5T
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DU7c0_G29MA
basically the hub is like one of these.
then i screw a free wheel on to that, that has an open end like this as opposed to this. I then get an old school metal bottom bracket cup which has the same threads as the free wheel. I screw that into the freewheel and then the next free wheel on to that extension piece (the bb cup).
Ya you either need a new 700c rear wheel or to lace a new rim to the current hub. . Not sure if your bike has a cassette or a freewheel. It says 6 speed gearing so my money is on a 6 speed freewheel. If that’s the case you need a wheel set up for a freewheel and also a freewheel remover if you are gonna do it yourself.
I’m gonna throw an upgrade at you to consider.
29er wheelset (same size as 700c but called 29er because it’s a mountain bike rim.)
Mountain bike wheels are a little beefier and will take more punishment. This one is cheap and comes with tires already.
Mavic Rim 29er Mountain Bike Wheels with Disc Brake Shimano Hubs PLUS Free Continental 29x2.2" Race King Tires and Tubes! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HDTR27Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SlF9AbR7A1F1B
9 speed cassette
Shimano HG400 9 Speed Mountain Bike Cassette - CS-HG400-9 (11-36) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073CFBPF9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_boF9Ab48BVPKH
SRAM X.5 Rear Trigger Shifter for 9 Speed Drivetrains, Black, 9 Speed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0063HG45Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bpF9AbA9TRZ94
SRAM X5 Medium Cage Silver 9 Speed Rear Derailleur https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00554231U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QqF9AbC18FV41
KMC KMC023 X9.93 Bicycle Chain (9-Speed, 1/2 x 11/128-Inch, 116L, Silver/Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AYJF2E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lrF9AbDFWEG5T
So basically $280 would get you new wheels that are tougher and come with bigger cushier tires, and allow you to upgrade to disc brakes in the future. Also we’re scraping the terrible 6 speed freewheel and upgrading to a 9 speed cassette. It will shift better, give you better low end torque and high end speed. The wheel set also allows you to upgrade to 10, 11 or even 12 speed but 9 should be sufficient.
Well, with those parameters, I'd consider building a single speed for your first build. Buy a freewheel, but use a salvaged crank, bb, chainring, handlebars, frame and whatever brake style the frame you're using is set up for: cantilever, caliper, v.
Here's an inexpensive 1/8" freewheel; that thicker size will mean that you'll use bmx-sized chains and chainring, rather than a thinner 9 or 10 speed chain. http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-SF-1200-Single-Speed-Freewheel/dp/B001GSSIIG/
That's way easier than messing with deraillers and cogsets on your first build. And when you're done, you don't have a fixie, but a bike with brakes.
Check out my post.
https://www.reddit.com/r/ebikes/comments/chpp6t/first_build_first_ride_tsdz2/
Smooth shifting with new:
SHIMANO MF-TZ21 14-28 Teeth 7 Speed Freewheel
KMC X8.99 Bicycle Chain (1/2 x 3/32-Inch, 116L, Silver)
Getting over 60+ miles using gears first, 75% tour mode, 25% Speed/Turbo mode.
​
Kickstand: FORTOP Bike Support Bicycle Kickstand Adjustable Aluminum Alloy for 22" 24" 26" 28" Mountain Bike/Road Bicycle/BMX/MTB/City Commuter Bike/Kids Bike/Sports Bike/Adult Bike/700 Road Bike
Absolutely! It's an IXF external bottom bracket / crank set combo, paired with a Snail 30t tooth narrow wide chainring, all available on Amazon. Super affordable. The conversion required a few specialty tools for removing the old hardware (square taper crank puller and internal bottom bracket removal tool) with one hollowtech wrench for installing the new bottom bracket.
There's a few good tutorials out there, just be mindful since you are working on the aluminum frame itself and stripped bottom bracket threads mean you'll need a new frame. I also took a few links out of the chain to help with chain slap and this thing is damn near silent now.
Tires are Bontrager XR4s, but they seem to have been discontinued in 29x2.3. They grip really nice off road but suck on the road due to high rolling resistance. Going to have to try something new once these wear out since anything wider might start scraping the frame.
Truvativ makes a one piece (ashtabula) to English cartridge bottom bracket adapter. You'll need that, a bottom bracket of the appropriate length (usually defined by crank manufacturer) and your new single speed crank set.
No gear skipping. My old chain was rusted reallll bad since I have nowhere to leave my bicycle as I live in a small apartment so it stays outside and got rained on pretty badly over winter. Just bought a replacement (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001CN6QAC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and will put it on I guess after a new freewheel.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005DTIKQE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486739389&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=bottom+bracket&dpPl=1&dpID=414eo6f6tjL&ref=plSrch
This is what I used.
Thanks for the help!
I bought:
chain
cassette
You need a 9-spd chain.
Only the marketing department multiplies the cogs by the chainrings. The rest of us say you have a 9-speed with a triple or simply a 9x3.
Last time I was shopping for a crank for my 2008 Trek 4300 disc I got lucky and the crank that came with a BB fit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LWXUV7I/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_inactive_ship_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Lucky, because I had no idea about bottom brackets (and I still don't really). But that one fit and works great and was affordable.
I have a hybrid bike with the exact same 7 speed freewheel and chainring, last week the freewheel went bad so I got this one the bike had the same tires as your's and I went with 700 x 30 tires and the bike is a bit faster but not as good as a road bike. Why not buy a used road bike as it's going to be far lighter than the wife's bike.
Hi ,
Im looking for a new 7 speed chain for my bike something cheap
Currently looking at this one
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000AOA3PS/ref=gno_cart_title_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB
Had it previously on my bike it was alright but was wondering if there are more options in this price range? (Live in canada if on amazon the better!)
I found infos about an older version of that Bike:
Question: Do I need to go with a original Shimano Freewheel?
Apart from getting a quote from a shop my plan of action is:
It is a 3/32 7 speed KMC Chain.
If it is a 26" moutntian bike, get some Schwable marathon tires. They are excellent tires for most beginners riding around in most road/rough road conditions. Don't get some 15$ tire. Some basic BBB brake pads will be fine - nothing fancy. Get a chain while you're at it. For people unsure of what seat to get, I'd recommend on the the Tioga accentia line of seats, but they don't seem to be common in the US. You don't want one that is soft and spongey - even "gel" saddles should be very firm (similar to the feeling of the bicycle tire), and you want one to match your tailbone size. They make saddles in varying sizes (ladies have a wide pelvis, so their saddles are wider than all others, for example).
Remember, old bikes usually need 3 things: grease, cleaning, and a new chain (8sp linked, get the proper one for you). Dry bearings in the hubs/pedals are usually the worst.
Take you bike to a local bike shop and have them at least look at it. They can help you get the tires and seat. Give the 700c tires to the mechanic there (if they are not cracked up along the sides, otherwise toss em).
Here's a wheel. It has a quick release axle, but will work well.
You could either buy this tool to remove the freewheel (gears) and switch them to the new wheel or you could buy a new freewheel set.
If you have horizontal dropouts, it's actually pretty easy. Basically the issue is taking up slack in the chain. There exists some products you can use if you have standard dropouts. An eccentric bottom bracket would be your best bet. Problem Solvers makes a chain tensioner you can put on your dérailleur hanger if you can't do the eccentric be.
Eccentric bottom bracket - this one is for bb30, I think you can get one for square taper style, too.. Phil wood makes one. Ask your lbs.
Chain Tensioner
You need to replace the cassette with a single sprocket.
You'd need to remove your derailleurs.
You would need to either replace your crank to a suitable one, or you can just take off all but one of the chain rings without too much issue.
Remember to support your local bike shop. They can get set up single speed much easier than on your own.
edit: yeah, i read it wrong. yeah it's not easy.