Best bike tires & tubes according to redditors

We found 858 Reddit comments discussing the best bike tires & tubes. We ranked the 507 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

Next page


Bike tires
Bike tubes
Decorative bicycle valve capss
Bike tire repair kits

Top Reddit comments about Bike Tires & Tubes:

u/[deleted] · 37 pointsr/bicycling


Get one of these babies

Stick one or two of these appropriately sized puppies in there

Keep one of these suckas on your person when out there.

And should something like this shit go down, youre gonna want some of these life savers.

Oh and lemme go 'head and save them fingers

Heres a quick lil video on how fix a flat

If that video doesnt suffice, we have the man Sheldon Brown

u/riorio88 · 21 pointsr/bikewrench

Depending on the make/model, factory tires can be absolute garbage. For your own safety, replace the tire. When I worked as a bike salesman/mechanic, I quickly learned that one of the best things to invest in is your tires. Do yourself a favor and, if you can afford it, by yourself something with a kevlar lining. When I lived in the States, I commuted every day and went on longer rides 2-3 days a week, but could manage close to a year on Continental Gatorskins.

u/ramennoodle · 18 pointsr/bikewrench

Looks like it covers the basics, except for a torque wrench (which not needed for groupset change). Pricey, though. This bikehand one has everything except the missing link pliers for less than half of the cost. This one includes a torque wrench and bearing press for 2/3 of the cost.

Also, KMC recommends against using submersing chain cleaners like the one included.

u/Kremm · 18 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

hate flats, learn how to switch out tubes, saved me a lot of hopelessness and the gear required is pretty light to carry around.



ratchet wrench 15mm

portable air pump

back up and running in 15-20 min.

u/MOIST_MAN · 13 pointsr/bicycling

I've created a short list of everything I have, linked items are the ones that I recommend.

Things for the road

Frame/ Mini pump

Saddle Bag

Patch Kit

Tire Boot (You can make your own for cheap, but these are still good)

Tire levers (See Multi-Tool, Levers Included)

Multi Tool (Super-Recommend)

Bike Lights

Spare Tubes (Optional for the road)

Bottles of choice

Sunglasses of choice

Gloves of choice (Important! For preventing impossible-to-heal palm scrapes)

Cycling compter

U Lock (no cable locks! they're garbage) <<I Have 3 of these, but then again, I live in Oakland.

Things for home

Floor pump

Tools (Pretty much covered by Multi-Tool, but there's things you may need like cassette tool, chain whip, etc)

Wet and Dry chain lube

Clothing (Optional, I only have the shoes and windbreaker)

Hi-Vis Jacket

Clipless shoes, I recommend SPD for easier walking


Padded Shorts, or Bib shorts


Leg Warmers

Most importantly, you need knowledge of cycling. Look up videos on youtube about safe riding on the road, traffic laws, hand signals, how to repair your bike on the road and at home, how to take a fall, and as much theory that you can)

EDIT: Do not let me trick you into thinking that a multi-tool is a replacement for the big-boy tools that are available on the market. Some of those tools are actually worth the investment. However, be that as it may, do your research first, because there's some overpriced crap out there ^^^Park ^^^Tools.

u/Sluisifer · 12 pointsr/bicycling

Hell yeah wider tires.

It depends on the road quality in your area, but even my road bike gets 25mm. I like 28 or 32 (usually 32) on my commuter. Gatorskins that big still roll quite nicely and basically just don't flat at all. I'd say about half of them wear out before they flat, out of half a dozen pairs I've put on my bike and my SO's.

They ride so much more nicely; you feel it in your wrists and ass.

32$ for 32mm folders on Amazon:

u/totallyshould · 9 pointsr/bikecommuting

I know that they're a tad heavier and slower, but gatorskins and marathons were the biggest improvement to my commute, probably better than getting a pannier. I was getting weekly flats for a while, and after the upgrade I went months and months between flats.

u/_crucial_ · 8 pointsr/milwaukee

I've been rolling on a set of 700x38 Schwalbe Marathons for 4 years and they're still in great shape. (Maybe it's a sign I need to ride more)

I know I'm going to jinx myself, but I haven't had a flat since buying them.

u/squiresuzuki · 8 pointsr/bicycletouring

So how would that be any different than using tubes in the first place?

And by the way, it's pretty standard to carry a needle and thread for sewing up a rare gash in the sidewall. Additionally, for large punctures, you can get a few tubeless plugs/slugs and they work very well.

u/iheartfirefly · 8 pointsr/cycling

I'm new as well, but I have these tires and love them so far. I shop at for tires, but I would recommend you spend another $20 to get tires at your local bike shop if you don't buy other stuff there. It's really good to have a relationship with an LBS...I'd be really lost without it.

There are also some other threads that talk about tires, so you can check that out but I think Gator Skins was high on the list of recommended tires. Solid, don't get flats, not noisy, don't cause too much friction.

Happy Riding!

u/JeremyNT · 8 pointsr/bicycling

I've got 35c studded tires on this thing, which is what makes it possible. I switched the tires out from my 37c slicks when I saw the forecast.

It's a little sketchy still - worst is getting in a rut left by a car, you kind of get trapped in there since getting out of it can be really tricky. I only rode about 6 miles by my reckoning and I had to go much slower than usual.

Note that this is mostly sleet (ice pellets) rather than typical snow. I can't tell whether this is better or worse, but I'm going to guess "worse." There was basically nobody on the road (that car at the light was the only one that came by for 5 minutes).

u/ChiFxxd · 6 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

Gatorskins on sale for $25 at Amazon... Gatorskins

u/CivilEngineerThrow · 5 pointsr/financialindependence

I needed winter tires for my rear wheel drive car for the Colorado winters. I couldn’t get out of my subdivision with the previous storm, and it wasn’t that bad. I opted for studded bike tires and finding my ski base layers instead dropping $700. Less miles on the car, and now I get to enjoy snowy mornings. I learned my lesson on trusting Big O Tires on what constitutes an “All Season Tire” when all the google reviews reference them as summer tires that suck in cold weather.

SCHWALBE Marathon Winter HS 396 Studded Road Bike Tire (700x35, Allround Wire Beaded, Reflex)

u/beerbajay · 4 pointsr/NYCbike

I used to live in Sweden and used these 32mm Nokian Nokia (yes nokia) tires; buying some for my first NYC winter.

u/Rob3E · 4 pointsr/bikewrench

I bought all my tools a piece at a time the first time. The second time I was able to buy them all at once and found it was cheaper to get a full toolkit than buying one at a time. I got the Bikehand kit: and it's worked pretty well so far. I haven't used every tool (and I'm a little fuzzy on what a couple of them are for), but generally, if I need a bike-specific tool, it's in that box. The exceptions being a torque wrench, which I've done without so far, and my wheel-building tools which, apart from the spoke wrenches, I had to buy separately.

However, if that's a lot to spend at once, most tools are not too expensive individually. I was able to buy them as needed without much trouble or (short term) expense. The only issues are that you pay more long term and the first time you have need for a tool, it's not already on hand. Not a big deal if you're patient. I'm not, and I use my bike for transportation, so having the tools before I need them keeps me mobile.

u/dcobs · 3 pointsr/bikewrench

I had a very similar hole in my side wall and I figured hey it can't get any worse so I applied a "Park Tool Vulcanizing Patch" on it and it's been working great since.

u/whenhen · 3 pointsr/bicycling

If it's an 11 mile one way commute, then you'll probably want a road bike. The Raleigh Merit will be well suited for your needs but I would recommend adding or swapping the following:

  1. More puncture resistant tires. You can also get Mr. Tuffy tire liners, but those will not have side wall protection.

  2. A good ULock and possibly some locking skewers to secure your wheels and seatpost. I interned right outside of Denver in 2015 and 2016 and regularly bike commuted. Even in the suburbs, bike wheels were regularly stolen if not secured.

  3. A rear rack and a set of panniers. Carrying stuff, including a change of clothes, with only a backpack gets old and sweaty. Plus the whole grocery thing if you're not going to bring a car.

    You may wish to check out /r/bikecommuting for additional information. If this will be your first bike, you will also need to get the following items:

  4. A helmet.

  5. Front and rear lights.

  6. Bicycle chain lube and degreaser (automotive works fine) to clean the chain.

  7. A bike specific multitool and tire levers.

  8. An air pump.

    If this seems like a lot, don't worry. You can get a really cheap and good pump from Walmart. Just make sure it has a presta valve hole. They also sell helmets which are required to meet the same safety standards as all other helmets sold in the US, as well as chain lube and auto degreaser. Amazon has good deals on the other stuff, especially lights.

    Finally, I find this frame mounted cell phone holder extremely valuable. The reason being, that I have a horrible sense of direction and this enables me to view Google Maps biking directions while riding to various places without having to take my phone out. Plus I can easily listen to music while riding.
u/bucketmania · 3 pointsr/MTB

Agreed. I have a Karate Monkey with plus tires and couldn't live without my little gage: Meiser Presta-Valve Dial Gauge...

Start at something high (20f/30r? Others may have a better starting point) and slowly drop it by 1 or even 1/2 psi every ride on the same trail.

When the tires start to feel too squirmy, go up a bit and there you go. Also, remember that one tire can feel squirmy while the other is okay to drop some more. I'm can run much lower pressures on the front tire.

u/DonOblivious · 3 pointsr/bikecommuting

I'm in the same boat but I've been squirrelling money away on amazon giftcards for a while now. Most of it was earned at (/r/SwagBucks and /r/beermoney for guides). Just a couple more weeks and I'll have enough for a pair or Marathon Winter tires, sooner if I drop some cash into the account.

u/nnnnnnnnnnm · 3 pointsr/bikewrench

I don’t think you need anything special.

I usually ride Kenda K838s until it gets really bad and icy. They are a heavy tire, but super cheap and they feel great. I did a 16 mile ride through snow/ice/slush yesterday and never felt out of control.

u/lackimagination · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Rope type tar plugs. You push them into the hole from the outside with a needle and cut off what sticks out.

u/Vietmam · 3 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

My winter beater frame is a Steamroller and I live in Edmonton (so I know shit weather). Mostly you can get by on regular tires if you want just by letting out some pressure. But if you want something that plows through it all (blizzard/rutted ice friendly tires) I would really recommend Nokian 32c studded tires. It's a low stud count, with the studs off the center of the tire so if there is some bare spots of pavement you won't be scraping the metal on the road. They are great for traction/peace of mind but not bulky at all. They've been great for me as a commuter and courier.

u/LukeWarmCage · 3 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

Procrastination is a disease, and I am sick.

  • 55cm Matte Black Throne Track Lord Frame $285
  • Gold Origin 8 single speed crankset $75 (I know it's cheaper elsewhere)
  • Diatech compe gold finger brake lever $33
  • KMC Gold BMX bicycle chain $23 (It is the 710 I think)
  • Promax P-1 gold stem $70
  • Mavic 700cc Ellipse track fixed gear wheel set/rims (slightly used) $550
  • Cinneli mash bullhorn handlebars $150 (Are they really that expensive? I paid $20 for mine from a bro.)
  • Rock Bro’s Alluminum Alloy Gold Pedals $25
  • Pure fix pro Carbon Fork $200
  • Cateye bike computer $45
  • Cinelli Avaldo Crest bike saddle/seat $43
  • Cinelli handlebar end plugs $6
  • Gator Skin tires $75

    $1580 total, not even trying to bargin shop. Cog, lockring, seatpost (nope, frame comes with), brake and housing and cable, we'll be generous and call it $1700

u/igiveyoumehs · 3 pointsr/bikewrench

I didn't read the other response because it was too long. My advice: get a cheapo toolkit for beginners, and replace the tools you use up with nicer ones [1, 2]. These kits won't have everything, but they'll have most of what you need.

Regular maintenance, in decreasing order of frequency:

u/milksteakfoodie · 2 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

I ride a Pasela on my front and use one of those nylon (I think) tire liners. I haven't historically gotten a lot of puncture flats, regardless of tire choice, so I can't say for sure that it's actually all that helpful, but I haven't gotten one with it installed, so far. Not expensive, also reusable.

I think this is the brand I got, I'm not positive but it looks like the same thing.

u/JustPutDownTheFork · 2 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

There is no rubbing whatsoever, I am currently running them at 60psi.

u/perpetually_poor · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Thank you very much! I measured my inner rim width to be 19mm and referenced the chart on the page you linked. I'm going to order these tires :D

u/geocyclist · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting

I commuted on a 1994 Stumpjumper for the past few years at school. I used cheaper Kenda 1.95 road tires that are still good after I bought them summer 2011. I also put a rear rack that carried either m-wave panniers for grocery shopping, or a trunk for small stuff.

Lights are a big thing. You can get them cheaply, I've been using a planet bike set for a while. The tail light is either solid or flashing and is very bright, but the headlight leaves something to be desired.

Good luck!

u/SmartToaster · 2 pointsr/cycling



Frame pump (or alternatively CO2 inflator)

Patch kit (optional)

Saddle bag

u/borkthenork · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting

I have Gatorskin tires and I love them! I pump them all the way to to 100-120 PSI and I noticed the difference right away. A coworker had the same set for two and a half years; he rides about 200 miles a week.

u/Rock-Shandy · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Tool kit like that are great but a smaller version is fine to start with.
I also recommend This Book. If you're stuck on a budget buy the book first and figure out what tools you'll need later.

u/Dark_water_ · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Something similar to this? I have no shame in announcing that I'm pretty ignorant to brand quality in this arena.

u/hey_muldoon · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Right on, thanks for the input! I'm looking forward to these gatorskins. It seems amazon has some pretty good deals as well!

u/AimForTheAce · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting
  • A bike toolkit - I have a Nashbar one But I think Bikehand one's is better. The chaintool in Nashbar one was a garbage. Bikehand's chaintool is outstanding. Cone wrenches, etc. in the Nashbar's has no handle coating, etc. I also have a couple of ther Bikehand tools and all are pretty good.
  • Repair stand - Feedback sports
  • T-handle hex wrenches, Metric - Allen
  • Combination wrenches, Metric - Husky from Home Depot.
  • Adjustable wrench, 10" - Stanley - very convenient
  • Ratchet wrenches, Metric - Harbor Freight, eBay
  • Torque wrench -
  • Table top vice.
  • Grease - progold

    EDIT: About the stand - There are many cheaper options but go with Feedback sports. The clamp by screw is far better than quick-release. Also cheap stands are really cheap while Feedback Sport's stand is all metal and very solid. Don't skimp on the stand.

u/tony3011 · 2 pointsr/bicycletouring

If you find yourself getting lots of flats, you can always pick up a tire liner (e.g. Mr. Tuffy) at a bike shop along the way.

u/brians_ · 2 pointsr/cycling

I just put these on my Trek 2.3 and I really like them. They're also pretty reasonably priced.

u/orlyyoudontsay · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I use these, and have not had a single issue, in terms of nuts coming loose or rattling around. The suspension system works pretty well to allow just enough travel to let them move about without rubbing the tires.

u/wedidntmeantogotosea · 2 pointsr/bicycletouring

You could always head to Dover and get a ferry to Calais; then cycle/train your way to Paris from there. It would save you the horror of the Eurostar and the ferries are much easier with a bike. If sticking with the train, giving them a call soon, or popping into St Pancras when you get to London; would be advisable; they can give you the most up-to-date requirements and get everything booked in one go.

Wild camping is enshrined in law in Scotland, Illegal in France. So if you do it, it's on you and neither Reddit or I take no responsibility for your actions! ;)

France is a pretty big country, so I'd hesitate to give you a forecast; keep your eye on! Where my family lives tends to be quite up and down through autumn, further south and east is likely to be better. Be aware of snow through November. And when I say 'be aware of snow', I mean if you see a white star on a weather map, it wouldn't hurt to have some of these. My parents have gotten stuck plenty of times in the car even on well kept roads, and they always keep snow chains for if the weather looks to turn foul. I keep a worn-in set of winter tyres for my bike so I'm ready to go if necessary.

Finally, while English is well-spoken throughout France, it is not universal; and in many rural areas there is sometimes a culture of deliberately being difficult to anglophones who don't at least make an effort to speak French. A pocket phrasebook would be a very good thing to have in your bar bag, and will not cost you very much at all.

If you do end up going via Calais, Belgium is an interesting country that is not far away. The Eurovelo route obviously skirts the atlantic via the bay of Biscay, since you're not following the route anyway, and you seem to have plenty of time I'd consider heading south-east from Paris, perhaps dip into Switzerland and visit Geneva, Turin in Italy and then follow the Mediterranean towards the Pyrénées and rejoining the route into Spain? The straight line from Italy to Spain through med france is actually mostly national parks, so should be easier riding than a lot of other places!

Since it's the kind of scenery I love, I'd happily lead you from mountain range to mountain range (in Spain there's the Picos de Europa, one of my favorite places. Totally not really on your route though). I don't really know what you're looking for from what you've said here, so giving better advice than that is pretty tough. Also bear in mind that most of these places in the south are places I've been to only on motorized transport, so while I've seen bikes on the route; I've not done it myself! The parts of France I know well, are all north-west of anywhere you're considering going, so I really can't assist you much on specific routes!

u/orphedoc · 2 pointsr/whichbike

O wow thanks so much! What's the difference other than the tires though? Could I just put these tires here

On the other bike Speak_The_truf suggested? The Diamondback Bicycles 2016 Century 1 Complete Road Bike with Disc Brakes. Or would you definitely suggest I just get the other bike? I see the other one is about $160 cheaper with the hyprid bars.

u/curbstickle · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I'm quickly realizing I want less knobby tires for my Raleigh RX 1.0, and instead, want something that will let me get a bit more go than the tires it came with.

Vittoria Cross XG Pro 700x32 - This is what I'm currently riding on. I'm still going to be using my bike as a commuter, for light trails, riding the roads for fun, etc. I just don't feel like I need knobby tires for what I'm doing though.

So I figured I'd go for more of a smooth tire. I'm considering:

u/bdl89 · 2 pointsr/cycling

So, just to confirm, this should be a solid option for me? Slightly over $100 CAD, but so well reviewed it appears it is the right choice...

u/wednesdaytwelve · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

I would replace the tire if I was you. You might consider something like this as an alternative if your rubber cement patch doesn’t work and you really don’t want to replace the tire for some reason. I doubt rubber cement will be strong enough to turn any hazard that would cause a 3rd flat.

u/scarlet88 · 2 pointsr/MTB

I understand the "don't buy a kit" mentality that others in this thread are suggesting but sometimes it's nice just to buy everything in one go, rather than piecing things together one by one. I did some research a few years ago and ended up grabbing this Bike Hand kit ($129) We've had it since ~Dec 2015 and it has held up well so far. The tools seem to be pretty high quality and it's nice to have a box to keep everything in. The box itself is also great – heavy duty plastic exterior with a metal tray inside for organization. Hope that helps!

u/beardeddragonborn · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting

Your...your situation sounds identical to mine. First winter for me, I commute 6 miles each way, part on a multi-use path, the rest on roads.

I am using the Giant Roam 3 with studded tires and so far am very pleased with it.

u/nahreddit · 2 pointsr/cycling

I bought [this] ( kit on Amazon 3 years ago and although it is pretty cheap it has never failed me. Its a great starting place at least

u/andrewcooke · 2 pointsr/cycling

not digital, but i like this one - it's presta and you can release pressure until you get the value you want (by pressing the button) while keeping it on the valve. it also has a decent sized range (you can easily get to within 1 psi).

(actually, i just looked, and mine - same make - goes to 60psi, but that one seems better for mtb)

(also, i find this post kinda weird - like saying "hey guys i know all about the latest trends but look at them noobs")

u/ANAL_CLOWN_SHOES · 2 pointsr/MTB

Because of our conversation and looking things up in my Zinn book, I almost just bought this:

But, I'm talking myself down from that for now. Gotta save something for Christmas! lol

I'm just going to buy the spoke tool for now. If I can use the extra chain laying around and automotive tools, then I'll try disassembling the hub and inspecting the grease. Thank you for helping me.

u/phenger · 2 pointsr/MTB

What you ran into on the trail is why I have one of these guys in my kit when I go riding (just in case the sealant doesn't quite hold it)

Long term, I'd still patch the tire, but I'm probably a more conservative rider.

u/Stickytapemeasure · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I was about to tell you that you don't need expensive brand-stuff for your patches. But then I saw that they' re cheap.

You can also use the glue with just some cut up old tubes, but you'd have to clean it really well.

I bought a set of 100 patches, since I allways have glue leftover from those patchkits. You only need a thin layer on both sides. You don't use the glue to stick the patch to the tube, you use the "glue" to make the patch and tube to "melt together" or vulcanize. Less is more.

Let the glue dry on both the tube and the patch before pushing them toghether.

u/GreenChileEnchiladas · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Kevlar Inserts - I used to live in a place with an abundance of Goatheads, and these inserts saved my tires. I went from being worried about riding on the roads, to being able to ride through empty lots.

Something like this

u/GeminiTitmouse · 2 pointsr/bicycling

The 25 will probably fit, but the rim may be slightly too wide for the bead (though at that bike's level, I doubt it). My suggestion would be to get some good 28s, they're negligibly wider than 25 (and in real terms, may even be the same width, depending on brands), will roll just as fast, with a tad more cushion, and shouldn't roll off of the rim.

To your last question: probably not. Entirely changing out the wheels and modifying the drivetrain in order to fit slightly narrower tires on your hybrid is not worth the effort and expense. Any tire that is narrower and slicker than what you have now will roll faster. I've had good luck on crappy city roads with these

u/Se7enLC · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

700 refers to the wheel size (diameter), 25 is the tire width. Tubes will generally have a size and a range of widths they will work with. You want something that says 700 and includes "25" in the range of widths.

This Continental tube has a width range of 25-32:

EDIT: Amazon isn't too good about linking to specific options. Make sure you select "700 x 25-32mm - 42mm presta valve". The 42mm is the length of the valve. Valve length isn't usually too important, but measure yours to make sure your replacement tube won't be too short or anything. Too long is ok.

u/onandagusthewhite · 2 pointsr/bicycling

These are my favorite 26"slicks.

u/bhaze · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Invest in some Continental GatorSkins.. I commute ~14 miles a day and for the first year or so I was changing tubes once or twice a month (my rear tire had a really thick tube in it which maybe went flat twice out of that year, but my cheap front tire tubes would always seem to go flat; also, I live in a place with not so great of roads and lots of thorny plants.)

I threw down 90 bucks for two gator skin tires and it's been about another year now and I have only had one flat where a thorn managed to puncture through the sidewall, must have got me in a sharp turn or something.

Do yourself a favor and get some!

u/crowek · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting

Studded tires are perfect for ice, so I would not say they're overkill. Wide tires are better for snow, so fat bikes and wide mtb tires. But 30-38mm studded tires would be what you want for ice.

If it's not bad, look into the Schwalbe Winters, 45NRTH Xerxes or Nokian Hakkepliitta A10s. I'll make these urls when I'm back on a PC instead of a phone.

edit; done. The mentioned tires are basically less aggressive versions of the ones I first linked.

editedit; Actually, mentioning Seattle at below 34F with an ice glaze over everything ... You might find my previous video of this route more interesting or relevant. Here's the link:

u/sgtgangles · 2 pointsr/MTB

This one: Meiser Presta-Valve Dial Gauge with Pressure Relief: 30psi

u/thirdstreetzero · 2 pointsr/Minneapolis

I ride 35-38s now, and 23-25s in the past and have never bought a studded tire. That bike would be perfect in the winter. If you're apprehensive, go to a shop and get some marathon winters; they're like ~$50ea on amazon.

u/csisac · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I'll keep it short.

For your tubes:

For tires: Amazon US Link Or similar, as mentioned.

Hope these help you!

u/evilweed · 2 pointsr/bicycling

For summer/mixed road use I have some Michellin XCR Dry 26x2.0's on at the moment - they work well on dry trails and don't have ridiculous rolling resistance on the roads. I had a set of kenda small block 8's last year and they worked pretty well to, similar tyre really.

I used to have a old MTB which was my commuting bike and also my pub bike, the one I didn't mind leaving locked up in town of an evening, but then the inevitable happened and someone nicked it. Anyways, I had some kenda slicks on that - if all you're doing is road and maybe the occasional dry, flat trail then slicks are your best bet.

u/twoleftpaws · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I'm currently using my MTB for the same reasons. This week I finally put a couple of new Kenda 838 tires on it, and immediately noticed a huge difference from my worn out knobby tires. The engineering of them is very cool (they are a lot like motorcycle tires, and have an almost bell-shape for gripping better on turns), they're much smoother and quieter, and the improved grip on turns is really noticeable. $17.34 each on Amazon.

Definitely also get some good padded gloves and a decent helmet! And since you're commuting, I'd also suggest a mini tool, tire levers (for removing tire from rim), pump, patch kit, chain lube, and front/rear lights for low-light riding.

u/therealw00zy · 2 pointsr/MTB
u/kbrosnan · 2 pointsr/whichbike

Considering it needs some work and tlc 100-125. You are looking at a minimum of 30 for new tires and tubes, up to about 100 if you go with a tire like gatorskins

Without it being in a ridable condition you are taking a risk that there are other problems.

u/ultra242 · 2 pointsr/MTB
u/DavidPx · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting

I had those tires on my old bike, a $300 hybrid. They worked great.

u/tkltangent · 2 pointsr/bicycling

This was linked in the article:

I'm still not sure it would fit my bike. I don't think it would be that hard to make a light treaded 25 or 27 with studs. I can't really afford a different bike for winter commuting nor can I afford to drop $40 - $70 per tire for studs. Guess I'll try zip ties or adding screws to a spare slick I have lying around.

u/joshrice · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I rode on Schwalbe Marathon Winter HS 396 last winter and really liked them. Hit some black ice one time and locked up the rear tire but these kept me up right. If it's not icy you can run them at 60psi and they still roll OK (they're still heavy as hell though), but you can drop the pressure and really stick if you need to.

The previous winter I rode on the non-studded version of those and my rear tire slid out through a turn. It was pretty dry otherwise that season so I couldn't justify buying them.

As PureBeetSugar said there aren't any good budget studded tires out there. I put three or four hundred miles on those and only lost a two or three studs total. Cheaper ones will either have steel studs that will rust out and/or poor methods for securing them to the tire - which means no more studs.

u/trav16 · 1 pointr/bicycling

~1,800 amazon reviews say otherwise:

never had an issue with them and theyve always treated me well. definitely not racing tires for sure, but ive never flatted one. what suggest you instead of gatorskins?!

u/toddthetoad · 1 pointr/bicycling

You can't put road bike wheels on your mountain bike, but you can switch the tires out to something more like a road bike tire. These will be slicker, so you'll get a little more efficiency on the road, you can usually find them by searching for "hybrid tires".

I used these before, and they worked well for me.

u/killcrash · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

I've got this saddlebag $30, this patch kit (this was really cheap I don't remember how much), a spare tube, this lezyne pump, some park tool tire levers, a 15mm wrench, and a multi tool. I've had cheap versions of everything listed here, the stuff on this list has been pricey but it's what I've upgraded to, and it's all shown it's worth multiple times.

u/robsodomy · 1 pointr/bikewrench

These are what I've had on my bike for the last year. No complaints. Excellent lightweight fenders and no more soaked shoes or back slop.

No matter what fender you get:

  • they will need to be almost exactly the same curve as that of your tyres

  • they will have to fit between the narrow spot at the top of your forks & between your seat/chain-stays

  • they are likely going to be a bit of a pain in the ass to install (sometimes to get a snug enough but not too snug fit, you may have to cut the spokes that hold it onto the braze-on mounts to size measure thrice & cut once

    Good luck. Fenders make an amazing difference if you aren't a fair weather rider.
u/Nom-de-Clavier · 1 pointr/bicycling

If you're going to be commuting you should look at getting fenders (SKS are good) and a rear rack and pannier bag (you're better off letting the bike carry your stuff; you won't get a sweaty back from a backpack). I'd also probably recommend a chainguard (which lets you ride in jeans/regular trousers without worrying about ripping the shit out of the cuffs).

u/vskid · 1 pointr/ebikes

Tubes that come with Slime sealant inside them, like these. Never used their tubes, but I've had good results with putting Slime in other tubes. It's great against small thorns.

u/JeTJL · 1 pointr/bicycling

You could go for these tires to get a bit of that road bike speed again. I haven't tried it myself, but I plan on putting it on my Electric MTB which I use to get to college.

u/LocalAmazonBot · 1 pointr/NYCbike

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link:

|Country|Link|Charity Links|

To help donate money to charity, please have a look at this thread.

This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

u/danielcole · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

I am a die-hard supporter of slime tubes. I had the same tubes for 18 months with the occasional flat. I finally replaced them only because they were so old I was worried they'd just disintegrate one day. Amazon Link

u/defacedlawngnome · 1 pointr/bicycling
u/suquamish · 1 pointr/bicycling

Assuming it's a 26" junker MTB, and Washington is the state (versus Washington DC)....

I use these tires while there's no snow: Kenda K838s

I'm on my second year of these tires. They do everything I expect them to do, at a cheap enough price. They do great in wet and dry conditions, and work okay with fresh snow.

For fenders, I use these: Planet Bike ATB Fenders

These perform okay, but honestly, I often wish I had purchased the version with the extra mud flaps. They keep most of the crap off me, but during heavy rain those flaps would be great at keeping my shoes clear of the spray from the K838s.

u/9erDude_Pedaldamnit · 1 pointr/bicycling

Since you mentioned that you're looking on Amazon, here is an Amazon link:

Continental 42mm Presta Valve Tube, Black, 700 x 25-32cc

As others have stated, always buy a tube that fits your wheel (700 in this case) and your tire width (28mm). Most tubes have a range of widths they will fit so look for any presta valve tube sized 700 x (a range within which your tire width of X-milimeters falls). Again, in your case, X=28. The tube linked above will fit any 700-sized wheel and any tire approximately 25-32mm wide. So it should work fine for you.

Watch some GCN videos on YouTube about how to install the new tube if you've never done it. They'll show you how to avoid pinch flats, which are one of the most frustrating things that can happen when changing a flat.

u/HaylonMc · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

The light is an Axiom Lazer 200. The bike I ride to work every day on is a Felt Z85 '13 stock except the saddle and the Conti Gatorskins.

The camera is a Garmin Virb Elite. My cycle computer is a Garmin Edge 510. The ANT+ sensors sync to both the Garmin 510 and the Garmin Virb so it records your routes and all vitals of the ride at the same time.

You CAN however, download the VIRB Edit software from Garmin, use your own video and if you can export your ride data from your head unit, you can sync that to the video and use the same overlays as I did. Mine are just really easy and auto synced since the camera records all that data for me :)

u/Financial_crisis · 1 pointr/Detroit thats the product i'm talking about. If youre new to cycling I would recommend taking the wheel on and off and replacing the tube a few times before you ever attempt to take this route. Changing a tube is super easy, but If I didn't know how to do it the last place I would want to learn is the side of the road. The goo wheel might help, but having general bike knowledge is going to help even more.

u/bedbugsugh · 1 pointr/Bedbugs

If the rips are small enough, you might want to use a bike repair kit patch

If they're large enough you might just want to encase it again. Once Cimexa becomes involved, the adhesiveness of your tape will slowly degrade as small particles of it will suck off the adhesive.

The metal studs thing is rough, I happened to have to encase my boxspring a second time for that same reason.

u/insukio · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle
u/archbox · 1 pointr/bicycling

Yeah, it's torn right at the base of the valve and a little inward. I actually have a few patches from my wife's bike but they wouldn't be able to get around the valve.

This self-sealing tube looks like it has a lot of good reviews. It sounds like the goo does make a huge mess and you need to keep the tire placed with the valve at the top of the tire after a puncture or else you won't be able to reinflate the tire due to blockage from the goo. But for $7 shipped I think it'd be worth a shot:

u/UrbanITx · 1 pointr/bicycling

I always bring Tire Levers, a new tube, a bike pump, wallet, & phone (I personally ride with a CamelBak, but you could easily fit this in a small underseat pouch). Plan A is fix the flat. Plan B is call a cab. Although I purchased my stuff at LBS, here's some amazon links:

Tire Levers:
Tubes (be sure and get your size!):

u/Sybertron · 1 pointr/Frugal

For me I just grabbed a pair of these off amazon for my bike.

Does a hell of a lot better on the road, while still leaving me the freedom of jumping on a trail if I like. If you never changed tires before it's super easy to do yourself but you'll need a pair of plastic tire irons (~3$) and a pump. You can forgo the pump by popping into any local shop and asking for air with a smile.

You can always get a cruiser style for around $250 though, which really isn't too bad for a decently comfortable bike.

No matter what I'd hunt on craigslist and compare to shop prices. Sometimes you can find total steals on CL (sometimes literally...) make sure the owner is legit and didnt steal the bike btw. Check the wheels are decently straight, misaligined (non-true) wheels can cost like $50 each. Jump on it and ride it around the block, make sure the brakes feel solid but not overtight, the drivetrain between the pedals feels solid and smooth, and that'is overall the right fit for you (legs should be just short of full extension when pedal is down, and make sure the front handlebars are a good height for your hands). Check out it's stopping distance from a decent speed, but don't go too crazy and damage a bike you don't own. For checking out shifters a lot of cyclists don't know how to keep and maintain theirs, so it can be tricky. The best thing to do is just tack on 20 bucks to the price and get it adjusted at a shop (most will be fine, just need adjusted/cleaned to get to a few gears), but you can see if the shifter is still functional or totally rusted out and check that the cables are still going into the housing smoothly or not and check the same with brake handles and cabling as well. If it's not it may be like 30-40 to repair. Finally check the sprockets for the chain. The chain should ride smoothly in any position, and you wanna check to see that the sprocket (called a cassette) is not too terribly chipped or worn down. Some wear will ride just fine though.

u/gfkbdr · 1 pointr/bicycling

It looks like gatorksins are about $10 cheaper at the same size on Amazon. They're significantly lighter because they're more of a training tire vs touring tire. The Vittoria Randonner is even a little cheaper than that. It's heavier than the gatorskin, but lighter than the marathon plus.

u/mangojizz · 1 pointr/mountainbikes

I was thinking about putting these on it. Do you think these will give me the smoothness I want on pavement and traction on dirt and trails?

u/kallisti_gold · 1 pointr/bicycling

You just ordered them in the wrong size. You can get the same fenders in the correct size here: SKS P45 Chromoplastic Fenders on Amazon

u/gccolby · 1 pointr/cyclocross

> I definitely agree with the others that recommend a hand gauge. I have owned a few different gauges and the SKS Airchecker version 2 is my favorite for cross. Topeak Smartgauge D2 is also really good, but only shows 1 psi increments. Not helpful if you care about half a psi. But maybe it's not worth caring about half a psi.

My favorite gauge. I had one of those fancy digital gauges, can’t remember which, but I found it to be incredibly finicky and unreliable (this is not a review, just my own experience). So I bought a 30 psi Accu-Gage and I’ve used it the last 4 years. As a nice bonus, it’s much cheaper than the digital gauges but reliable and basically indestructible. Anyway, not trying to say not to use a digital gauge. Just use some kind of dedicated low pressure gauge, not the gauge on your floor pump, and if you’re price sensitive, know that the analog options are inexpensive and really good.

u/logatwork · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

I have a anti-puncture tape on my tires and never got a puncture.

u/threetoast · 1 pointr/bicycling

Hm. This patch kit costs $3.50, and has six patches. The round ones (4) are 25mm.

Rubber cement is $5, though there's also a gallon for $30. The cost of sandpaper for these purposes is negligible. A tube is maybe $5, and probably has enough rubber to make 29 2.5" square patches. Or ~63.5 mm. So plenty big enough to cut down into 146 square 25 mm patches. I'm measuring this based on a Specialized 700C x 28/38 tube, so you could probably increase that by buying the biggest tube you can find.

I can't really say anything about how the sticking power of these patches compare, but when you think about a tube's place in the tire, it likely wouldn't matter.

EDIT: changed some patch math

u/johneatspies · 1 pointr/cycling

I run these in my MP3's.

People will tell you they that liners degrade the ride quality, they are utterly and completely full of shit and almost certainly have never run liners. I have multiple sets of wheels some with, some without all on MP3's. You can't tell a fucking difference, but you will get fewer flats.

u/CaptainScrummy · 1 pointr/bicycling

Gatorskins in 25-28's are in the $40-50 range, well worth the money.

u/ironcrotch · 1 pointr/bikewrench

I did the same thing with my mountain bike. Look for Kenda Slicks in the size that was on there. They're good for all weather.

u/professor-i-borg · 1 pointr/bicycling

They're a puncture resistant road tire. I used to bike a lot at night, and the bike lanes in my area have horrible potholes and seemingly randomly spaced manhole covers. Because of this I would be fixing inner tubes like twice a week. Then I got those gatorskins, and I've yet to fix a puncture. I don't know if they're the best, and they do add a bit of weight to the bike, but they are definitely durable.

u/rickymare · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

I have SKS full coverage fenders on my Bare Knuckle and they fit. They even have neat mud flaps. You can use P clamps if your bike does not have the mounts.

u/moobcola · 1 pointr/bicycling

Okay I think I may be calling the different parts by the wrong names. Would this bike work with these wheels?

u/electricity_here · 1 pointr/bicycling

Get a pair of Continental gatorskins link, 700x25c, and install a thorn resistant tube in each tire.

I've done this for years and have had maybe one flat per 5000 miles (typically valve stem issues, can't say I've ever had a puncture flat). I've actually had to replace the tires due to wear before the tubes in most cases (sidewall wears out over time like any tire, in fact most should be replaced every year).

u/dachopshoprepairshop · 1 pointr/bikewrench


yea I was looking at park tool kinda pricy at $250 and judging from reviews the tools materials don't seem to be worth the cost. Was looking that this set


u/tartled · 1 pointr/bicycling

First, find the tire pressure. This is almost certainly the cause of your issue if you haven't checked it recently.

Also, the pressure range on mountain bike tires is wide, because riders tend to ride low-pressure off-road, and high pressure on road.

One more thing, big knobbly tires will seriously affect your rolling resistance, so if you do decide to change out your tires, you should take a look at some "slicks" -

e.g.: kenda k838

I was thinking about getting something like this to ride my trek wahoo around town.

u/adriftinanmtc · 1 pointr/bicycling

I (and many others I know) ride Gatorskins. They're pretty darn rugged. They can be had for $40 from Amazon.

u/smoothcam72 · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon





. . .


u/AstroZombie138 · 1 pointr/ebikes

Are you riding off road a lot?

Try the tubes with the goo in them:

Also consider the belt style protectors:

I did both and haven't had a flat tire since. Plus, always ride with a spare tube and CO2 inflator.

u/Kahnza · 1 pointr/bikewrench

I also have a Bikehand kit. Same price, but different set. I have this one. I haven't used all the tools yet, but I want to replace the adjustable cup wrench, and crank puller with Park equivalents.

u/sns1294 · 1 pointr/MTB

I bought these for $10 each last fall, but it looks like they're a little more now... They work well on pavement, gravel, and very easy trail use.

u/nothing_clever · 1 pointr/survivorzero

My bike repair tools are 2 wrenches, a screwdriver, bike pump, and some tire patching kits. Also potentially important would be letting you put a basket of some sort on the bike, so you could carry more supplies, like this. It's how I go grocery shopping sometimes, and I think it would fit well in this game.

Edit: also, with those tools I could tear my bike down to it's most basic pieces and put it back together.

u/tenthjuror · 1 pointr/MTB

Similar for me, but I went with the 30 psi range.

u/HungryMandrew · 1 pointr/MTB

Cheap plug kit

Also, if you are unaware, the issue with running tubeless is that if you get a flat, it can be very hard/impossible to re-seat the tire bead with a hand pump, especially a travel pump. So you always need to have an innertube incase you get a flat. For your house pump, if you dont have a compressor, make sure you get a higher volume pump like the topeak joe blow mountain, or even better, something that has a charge cylinder.

u/byikes · 1 pointr/bicycling

I've been using these all summer with no problem.

It's kind of hard to see, but they are slightly triangular so only about 1" contacts the road.

u/Lolor-arros · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

No problem! You can use camelcamelcamel to check Amazon price history, or wach other sites for sales. They get to $30-35ea a few times a year on Amazon. I got one for $30 through REI's Memorial Day sale, and a great deal on panniers and a rack. I'm not that familiar with other retailers, but I'm sure there are at least a few good ones out there.

u/drewr · 1 pointr/cycling

I put Kenda K838s and Odyssey pedals on a 2002 Specialized Rockhopper. It's not as fast as my road bike, but I can ride all over the city (over curbs, grass, etc), it's really comfortable, and a lot of fun!

u/mayowarlord · 0 pointsr/bikecommuting

You can be sure that the faster folks are probably riding a tire closer to 700x25, where the bontigers on that bike are 700x35. Those are quite wide which does mean a fair amount of rolling resistance. The tread adds to that but is minimal on the tires you have. I personally ride 700x25 gatorskins which are road slicks. They aren't grippy and I feel every bump. So it's very much a trade off. I think for you it's worth trying a road slick that a little thinner. The gatorskins come in a ton of sizes 700x28 is still fairly wide but you would see huge returns in speed from them, while getting a bit more resiliency than a 700x25 offers.

Flat bar bikes are not really designed for a leaning forward riding position, as you have noticed. This is probably only really important when there is a headwind. Slipstreaming and general aerodynamics really only matter above 20 mph (that could mean 5 mph headwind while you are going over 15mph).

Also consider clipless pedals and shoes. It's not for everyone, but I can no longer tolerate riding without them. There are a ton of benefits.

u/End-Effector · 0 pointsr/MTB

What you want are TIRE LINERS! Forget tubeless/airless. Simple fix and no more problems with little money. I had a lot of punctures and this solved my problems.