Best boat electrical equipment according to redditors
We found 168 Reddit comments discussing the best boat electrical equipment. We ranked the 111 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 168 Reddit comments discussing the best boat electrical equipment. We ranked the 111 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
These are fairly common and cheap, not to mention pretty robust. It would be far more elegant than the plug solution. I swapped one out for my mom on her smoke exhaust in the kitchen, it died after 10 years of constant use and it died only because the internal contacts has been covered with grease/grime over the years. Tons of other variations exist too that are pretty common.
Use deep cycle batteries, not car batteries.
Many charge controllers have a low voltage shutdown. Or build your own using an arduino and a beefy relay. Use a voltage ladder to knock down your voltage to under 5v so the arduino can read it.
Or buy this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GZOP53M/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_86_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=74SR3BAA4M7772YPQ3CK
No
60 Watt Panel
Charge Controller
Battery
Light
12v Cig Adapter
You likely have a battery selector switch. You only need 1 battery. The other is a backup. If you run your trolling motor, livewell, stereo, etc you might kill the battery. In that case you would just switch to the other battery.
You don't have to use Armyteks mount. I run my Viking pro in this Magpul mount. The Viking has a 1" diameter body so it will fit in any mount that can hold a 1" light.
I bought a deep cycle battery and connected it to the car starting battery with a switch http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00445KFZ2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
You turn the switch on when driving, which allows your deep cycle to charge, and turn it off when parked so it doesn't draw from your starter.
I then wired up a cigarette lighter to my deep cycle and use it for a 12 v fan, phone charger, and 12 v laptop charger.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JT7B3A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You drill a hole in the floor of your van and run at least 4 gauge wire from the positive pole of your car starting batter, to the positive pole of your deep cycle with the switch in line. Then you ground your negative pole on your deep cycle to the frame.
After that you can add on whatever components to the deep cycle to draw charge with ring connectors.
The draw back of this set up is that you MUST turn your switch to off when parked otherwise you can draw power of your car battery and be unable to start your car.
FUSE ALL THE THINGS!
You'll never go wrong putting more fuses in. Find what the item pulls, put in a fuse of just a touch over that amount. So if it pulls 13 amps of 12VDC, put in a 15A fuse in the positive (red) line going between the battery and that item. Do that for everything.
Get a fuse block. It makes it MUCH easier and looks prettier. :)
Absolutely worth it. I have an Engel fridge and I originally wasn't going to do solar. But I found that If I wanted to park for more than a day or if I didn't drive at least 50 miles everyday, the battery would slowly drain down to the cutoff point within a week. I installed one 100-watt panel and I can leave the van parked for as long as i want and the battery stays charged and I never have to turn off the fridge.
I just use a continuous-duty solenoid that connects the house and main batteries when the ignition is on for alternator charging. Nothing fancy. And a sunsaver charge controller for the solar here's a link list I made for a friend who installed a similar setup:
Solar Panel:
http://www.amazon.com/Grape-Solar-GS-STAR-100W-Polycrystalline-100-watt/dp/B00CAVMMMG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1438626722&sr=8-1&keywords=grape+solar
Mounting Feet:
http://www.amazon.com/Grape-Solar-GS-ZB-Fab1-Zippity-Off-Grid/dp/B00MS8AKUM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1438626722&sr=8-5&keywords=grape+solar
Connectors:
http://www.amazon.com/Islandoffer-Pairs-Female-Solar-Connectors/dp/B00A8TRKJW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1438633077&sr=8-1&keywords=MC4+connectors
Charge Controller (don't skimp here and don't get an MPPT controller for just a panel or three):
http://www.amazon.com/Morningstar-SS-20L-12V-SunSaver-Charge-Controller/dp/B007NNHUHI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1438633118&sr=8-3&keywords=sunsaver
Battery:
I got the x2 Power from Batteries plus. it's not bad, but the battery i should have gotten is this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Lifeline-GPL-27T-AGM-Battery/dp/B004OA25PU/ref=pd_sim_sbs_200_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0P8HYGYQ24QVWZARFF4Z - which Batteries plus should be able to get, which means less or no shipping.
Fuse Block:
http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Block/dp/B000THQ0CQ/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1438633797&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=blue+sea+fuse
Volt meter:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BZPNICG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
Solenoid:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0064MX7US/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687442&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0050I94XG&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0F2ZN9606RB53XSFR2EC
TLDR;
Yes SSDs; no HDDs. Watch for data corruption on the SSDs though.
Consider reaching out to vendors and manufactures for discounts or free goods.
If you want devices to stay on whether the vehicle is on, off, or starting, just hook up to the battery.
I found a rugged NAS. Probably not much better than Synology but take it or leave it.
Unqualified thoughts at length:###
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SSDs are the way to go. HDDs will absolutely fail if operated in rough conditions.
SSDs are expensive so do you need a redundancy? You said the data is already replicated/backed up so consider how bad it is if the NAS goes down and all data is lost.
SSDs don't store data well when stored powered off above room temps. Assume your data will need to be refreshed often using a sync method that compares contents, not just modified time. Like linux rsync with the checksum option.
----
You're a non-profit (and emergency services to boot). Vendors or manufactures might have programs that will provide a discount.
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A quick google turned up this nas that is designed for your situation, including powered from a vehicle directly. I wonder if it's worth it--I'd guess as almost every NAS probably operates just as about as well (temperature range and dust-wise as this thing, and I didn't see any actual certs on this thing regarding dust or moisture resistance). But one vendor has it for under $700 shipped so only 2-2.5 x as expensive as synology.
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You may not need a UPS if you power it directly off of the vehicle battery. Just run some wires back and hook up an inverter. Though I don't know what kind of vehicle we are talking about, they have them in 12V or 24V and the battery should be charged by the alternator.
Most NASs (and embedded computers like my mini-ITX mobo) run directly off of 12V so you may be able to run it directly from the battery...no inverter. However, get something like this. Make sure to install an in-line fuse or an extra fuseblock fused for the same or less than your regulator. Your all-in-one router (and even some rackmount switches) also run off of 12V.
So I would run a suitably rated wire from the battery to the network area and install a fuseblock as needed. One fuse per regulator, and regulators to take the load of whatever devices you hook up. Look at your equipment specs for total wattage, add it all up and see where you are. A small NAS with SSDs and a dumb 8-port switch can probably be run with one 10 amp regulator and an inline fuse.
Phantom power. You may want to install a switch to cut power to all the equipment so that you don't slow-drain the battery when you aren't using the equipment.
Specific to your equipment##
The synology DS416slim includes a 12V 5A adapter. Your WRT1900 includes a 12V 4A adapter. The regulator I linked above is rated to 10A. I would hook these to a single inline 10A fuse and a 12V regulator rated for 10A, off of 16AWG wire [calculator] from the battery, splice in two of these, and call it a day. Use 12-10AWG if you think you will add more devices to this set up in the future.
Drawing. https://i.imgur.com/VPpe8YC.png The switch can be placed anywhere is convenient. If you run higher rated wire with future-proofing in mind then you might put the switch before the fuse so you can use the same switch to turn off all devices (amperage permitted on the switch).
The rugged qnap nas includes a 7A adapter, so you would need a larger fuse. It has its own regulator so I would add a second fuse (keep a 10A fuse on the 10A regulator) and make sure the wire is specced to 20A (probably 12awg depending on length). Chances are you could run the qnap and the router on a single 10A if using ssds, but might as well build conservatively.
If using the rugged nas with built in regulator.
The fuses are there to keep more than the rated amperage from going down the wire from the battery as well as from over drawing the regulator. So make sure the regulator has it's own fuse and all fuses on the wire combined don't exceed the wire rating. An easy way to do this is to put one inline fuse right next to the battery matching the wire rating (20A, or 30A, or whatever you install) and another fuse to protect the regulator like so. With that inline fuse on the main wire, you could even have 6x10A fuses in a block to protect your devices and still keep the total draw on the line to rated loads.
EDIT I drew the ground connected to the negative terminal. However, it is easier (and probably better) to ground to an unpainted part of the chassis.
Any competent electrician will warn you against repeatedly using a breaker as a switch (but yes, I have). They DO have a limited lifespan. It's big, but so are the consequences of you being unlucky and it failing. I'd use a dedicated switch (I use this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00445KFZ2/) and a fuse rated to 150% of the max expected current. Keep in mind, your inverter is designed to handle a surge, and most electrical things draw a huge surge when they start for a brief moment. You have to consider that current in your fuse selection as well. I always kill the inverter when not in use. It arguably increases its lifespan as well. It's one less thing to fail while I sleep, while I am away from the van, or while I am driving down a mountain in snow!!!
Here’s my write up on JeepForum
This is the fuse block I used
I used 6-position covered terminal blocks similar to these, although I got them for $3/ea at a local store
This was my ground bus bar. it was cheaper when I bought it, and 10-position is nice but I probably could’ve gotten away with less
These are the waterproof sealed relays I would recommend
This is the circuit breaker I wish I used, but I had the 150A on hand. I’ll probably swap it out at some point
Edit: to add on, I used heatshrink on noninsulated female disconnects so that I could have everything properly color coordinated for easier work if I needed to make repairs/modifications in the future. I only used 1/4” Red/Yellow/Black HS on the board :)
EDIT 2: I used the wrong link for my writeup. It's fixed now!
I use one of these in the engine compartment and one of these for smaller branch circuit inside the cabin on the back of the firewall.
I'd worry about using something that isn't a) common or b) intended for that use.
Also... get bus bars... you'll need at least 2... (NEG and POS.. duh) these make your life so much easier when you are hooking 10 things to a single ground, for example... https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Common-Busbar/dp/B0091VHLW4/
There is a metric shit ton of options. Something like this for an offset
https://www.amazon.com/Magpul-Industries-Light-Mount-Black/dp/B00CQ8FWCU
Viking tactics also makes a popular one. Do a search and you'll have plenty to choose from. 1" is the standard so virtually all mounts should work as long as they attach to a pict
Amazon Link
Seems like you're looking for something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Magpul-Industries-Light-Mount-Black/dp/B00CQ8FWCU
Maybe this unit or this unit would arrive just a little bit faster (prime vs china)? Second one is even UL rated.
Just follow /u/jjcarrol 's advice and be careful. Do not leave the unit unattended while plugged in like this. You have no guarantee its only going to pull 2 Amps, and if anything goes amiss, your insurance company will politely but firmly decline to cover you. A KillAWatt-style meter would be advisable.
First, my needs:
Second, the components:
Panels/controller https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B8L6EFA
Battery https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ACKDGPS
Y connectors https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4ELRSH
Cable entry https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CSEXW2S
2 Gauge wire https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KD2756W
Terminal rings https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005V9UWB2
Crimp tool https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003X51S00
Terminal block https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S5Q2VS
Busbars https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091VHLW4
Inverter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MDXS0U
Vent vans https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002OW5JIU
Monitors https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/PB278Q/
Puck lights https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ODSAR12
Strip lights https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IQOV13G
Fuse box https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P6FTHC
Killswitch https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DUUL9W
Switches https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XFJW1SB
Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L8KP16E
I know my needs are fairly minimal. I see opportunity to grow with this system if I ever need to. I’m excited to lay it out with the actual parts soon and begin thinking about it in the real world.
Any suggestions, info or questions are completely welcome. I know little about electrical, only what I’ve learned from reddit and youtube. Thanks pals and again /u/StolidSentinel for the help and replies to all my messages and questions!
I've got similar electrical needs to you, currently move between inverness and the central belt and have 290w on the roof. There have a couple times where it's been dreary for a few days and the batteries have rundown near to 50%, so in those events I've limited my usage and gone for a wee drive the next day. Hasn't happened too often though.
If you're driving every day you might be fine without solar but I would look in to a proper battery charger like one of these (https://www.amazon.com/Sterling-BB1230-12-Volt-30-Amps/dp/B071DMV7PF/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1535726827&sr=8-1&keywords=sterling+bb1230). I only mention it because my 'smart' relay only pushes 14.6v in to the batteries which isn't enough for an equalize charge and they'd end up dieing prematurely if it was the only charging source.
I'll plug this fridge too as it's awesome and uses very little power.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003EET3XY
Power and ground used to go directly from radio (under the rear seat), through the firewall gasket (above driver's left foot), across the engine bay, to the battery. With inline fuses about 6 inches from the battery.
Now I have it powered slightly different, but with the same problem. I reused that same line coming from the battery, but it does not go to my radio. It goes to a distribution block, and then to my radio (FT857d).
Would it be better for me to ground using one of the chair bolts or something instead of running ground to the negative battery post? Or both?
I don't mean to hijack OP's fresh install post with my busted install's issues :-P, perhaps I should make a post of my own.
Get a [fishing blackjack](Aftco Fish Bat FBAT2B](https://www.amazon.com/dpB000EZ0AW4ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_g9n3DbMVTN73G) it’s a 16” aluminum bat and has a hooked handle, so it looks like an umbrella—slip it into an old umbrella
If size is the main issue with the breaker panel check out this one. It mounts directly on the battery posts
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00SE6Z2WI/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1
My suggestion would be to get a magpul (~$30ish) mount and put an Armytek in it. (Probably a partner, about 35-40ish). Eventually cheaper lights crap out on recoil, even for light recoiling guns like an AR. Try the magpul mount, as I know it works with heavy use. Alternatively, streamlight makes a mount and light combo on amazon for $60 but I can't attest to how well it works.
Ideally if you're going to buy something like this for hard use it might be worthwhile to just wait a little and save up for like a stream light protac with a more solid mount like an IWC Thorntail.
Link to magpul mount:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CQ8FWCU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494794559&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=magpul+flashlight+mount&dpPl=1&dpID=51Fc8FYJOiL&ref=plSrch
Link to armytek:
https://www.armytek.com/products/flashlights/hunting-and-military/armytek-partner-a2/
Link to Streamlight combo:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HRD8UN2/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494794559&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=magpul+flashlight+mount&dpPl=1&dpID=41jDluHG7FL&ref=plSrch
Link to Streamlight Protac:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01AXR8JGG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1494794984&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=streamlight%2Bprotac&dpPl=1&dpID=419HR0uzY5L&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1
Link to IWC mount(s):
http://www.impactweaponscomponents.com/product/thorntail-scout-by-iwc-haley-strategic-partners/
Yeah, I thought anyone interested in the thread would be! But as soon as I posted the original version with amazon links, it was auto-deleted. Weird.
Oh well, here are my products:
Solar panel: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017OMTAV6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=I2R53I6ASRE7TH&psc=1
Charge controller: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JMLPP12/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=IMF9F8IHLJ6EN&psc=1
House battery: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/SSBQ/3478PLT/03321.oap?year=1967&make=Ford&model=Mustang&vi=1332302&ck=Search_03321_1332302_-1&pt=03321&ppt=C0005
Battery isolator: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058SGDFK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=I2UYT4LFVI14AN
Van fan: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002OWAIB8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=I1Q9S1UN7Z94H7&psc=1
LED lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JF2A6G/ref=od_aui_detailpages02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Fuse block: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K2MBPA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=IK1ERB55YT6QX&psc=1
Busbar: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-MiniBus-Grounding-Terminal/dp/B0058GA4IO/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1467345205&sr=8-11&keywords=6+terminal+bus
Main line fuses (inline): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WZHE3A4/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=ICS8GYAQNUJV1&psc=1
>I'm fairly ignorant of electric systems on boats.
I hope you're comfortable with how basic 12VDC electrics work and are asking about how to wire them in a marine environment.
Preface, I'm not a certified marine electrician but I've done a ton of work re-wiring, custom work on all kinds of sail and power boats.
Tools:
>I do have a cheap harbor freight multi-meter
good, now you're going to need a way to crimp those shitty connectors and some dielectric grease.
Unless of course you want to solder all your connections (this is my preference as it doesn't vibrate loose or corrode as quickly), then follow NASA's soldering method s and yuu'll need some rosin cored solder and and a soldering iron, you'll also need to use a crimp connector without the pre-molded shrink wrap and some heat shrink tubing
Ok... got your tools? great, now for supplies.
You'll need a buss bar on your ground
Measure how much wire you need, (are you re-wiring the mast?) and use 14/2 AWG marine grade wire.
If you're only using 1 battery you can get away with a simple switch like this. From the devices & lights you listed It sounds like you can use 10AWG to connect your battery to your switch then to the 14 gang panel.
You'll need a way to label your wires, I use one of these but if you're doing one job you might want to use something cheaper.
Ok... now on the to the fun part
Plan where you're going to mount your panel and pull a single RED 10AWG from there to your battery shut off switch and another strand from you battery to the switch.
Pull 10 AWG from the battery to the buss bar.
pull all the 14awg from the lights to the panel labeling each 14/2 wire as you go
red goes to the fuse block, black goes to the buss bar then to the negative on the gang block, label everything at the connection points, big red wire goes from battery switch to the bolt on the 14 gang, big black wire goes to the buss bar.
install new things, as each device is hooked up test the fuse and switch, then install the new thing.
Edit: I forgot to mention, use dielectric grease on all metal fittings to reduce corrosion.
edit 1: put a fuse between your battery and shut off ont the red wire
> I'm looking more for what, if anything, is needed in the wiring behind the socket.
You need an Automotive Receptacle, and an Inline Fuse (2A is plenty) to protect it.
> But I'm wondering if there is some other interference on that battery and the wiring that I'm going to need to address.
What else do you have hooked up on the Leisure Battery and how do you charge it?
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Automotive Socket:
https://www.amazon.com/Attwood-Marine-12-Volt-Power-Outlet/dp/B003EET3XY/
(IIRC 12V and 24V use the same physical socket, though you might want to look for a 24V specific one if you don't want to risk it)
------
Inline Fuse (Actual Fuse Not Included):
https://www.amazon.com/Scosche-0400ATCFH16-5-Fuse-Holder-Gauge/dp/B008CVPE8C
I put a fuse between the panels/charge controller and the charge controller/battery. I used this fuse holder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000THTBZO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_cyhozb0Q7812D
Also, it may be worth while to pick up a fuse block that way there you can easily add additional 12v stuff without messing with the battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000THQ0CQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_vChozbH1TGQ27
feel free to PM me/reply if you have any additional questions
because I wasn't sure of the term haha.
A bus bar would be perfect. Now I just need to find a cheap one that has a cover; though I could print one if need be.
this is pretty nice for the price http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Common-Busbar/dp/B0091VHLW4/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1408979981&sr=8-7&keywords=terminal+bus+bar
Example:
https://www.amazon.com/Ancor-121510-Marine-Duplex-Cables/dp/B000NUYBW0/
Example:
https://www.amazon.com/Perko-8501DP-Marine-Battery-Selector/dp/B00144B6AE
I say these things for the following reasons:
Wiring Example:
https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRrykWkGL7Y6N6zwAiDNcYPNvgQglOC4aJx0ntB9qn2Iv_INk1TUQ
I guess you could rig up a priming bulb like they do for gasoline:
https://www.amazon.com/Attwood-Universal-Primer-Bulb-8-Inch/dp/B0053HP43I
This one is narrow but ugly:
https://www.amazon.ca/Switch-Waterproof-Motorcycle-Light-Signal/dp/B07MW9BB5Q/ref=pd_sbs_263_3/147-0098043-7119861?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07MW9BB5Q&pd_rd_r=478708a1-6f19-4e02-a969-027b1e6decbd&pd_rd_w=FxOiO&pd_rd_wg=U23z2&pf_rd_p=4cf4f791-afd4-44de-a643-8ab281642d0c&pf_rd_r=SXVBKQYXJVKNAMG0Y86H&psc=1&refRID=SXVBKQYXJVKNAMG0Y86H
I would just add, try to put the fuses the closest possible to the power source (batteries in this case) to prevent melted wires in case the insulation of wire gets damaged and starts grounding with the chassis of the car.
This a good idea for the 3 way socket thing , and something like this for the inverter that you plan on using.
Yes, I meant one of these...12v distribution panel
It’s made by blue sea systems. And they make a ton of different sizes.
Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000THQ0CQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PR2QCbPH5WP6S
I looked to me the type of club used to bash fish, the irony in this case is that such clubs are sometimes referred to as a priest...
Thanks for the response.
Well first off, I wasn't totally sure if it was that easy, but that being said, there are switches with two, three, or as much as five pins, so how do I go about choosing which type of switch?
I would assume it depends on the project and what you're trying to turn off and on.
As of now I'm not 100% what the inside of the wire for the microphone looks like. Like I said its your standard analog pc microphone. I'm kind of still using it so I was hoping it might be some sort of common knowledge for someone in the know, but obviously I'm willing to cut it open and find out. Looking online I can't find a definitive answer so I'm assuming I'm going to need to figure that out myself.
Oh its a gearmotor thats like 16RPM. I'm fine with it just being on/off with my particular application (it's a work thing).
However I didn't realize they were 20A until the seller called me. The spec's I found online made me think they were 10A each. So I'm hoping these toggles work. People in the comments say they are rated for 20A, which hopefully means 20A sustained and not 20A peak.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078W8NNY8/
I like Blue Sea switches. Used them on boats for years. Whatever you get, make sure it's rated for the amps you pass through it.
The fuse/CB size should be the lowest for whatever the max the circuit will draw and the wire will support. Say a fridge draws 4a at normal running but 12a starting, then the fuse should be 15a and the wire sized to the 15a.
I fused my 2 series panels at 15a since 10a would not be enough, so I have 2 fuses because of series 2 in parallel, both on positive side of the panels. You don't need to fuse both sides.
I fuse and switch positive.
Battery cutoff should be before the first load off the batteries and completely isolate them.
The victron BMV will work by itself, all it needs is the shunt and a positive lead.
I disagree that is the "best" MPPT, but use what you want. That one is cheap, but their support is direct from china and they have more than a few reviews of people having hard times with warranty and support, that plus it is very large.
I like Will's videos, but my experience with the victron is not anywhere like what he complained about. The connections are solid and it doesn't get hot at all. Initially I was concerned, so I put a temp monitor inside the compartment and a 12v computer fan on the vent, but even without the fan the compartment that is about 2' x 1' x 1' and under a couch is only about 2 degrees F warmer than the rest of the van when in direct sunlight pulling in nearly all of the 400W.
Fusing the 200a draw is not about the amp-hours of the battery. amp-hours are how long it can discharge, not how fast. you need to find out what the max discharge rate for the batteries are, and the max amp rating of the inverter and size your wires and fuse according to that (along with the length of the run)
"going up one size" on the wire is a general term. Use this instead https://www.wirebarn.com/Wire-Calculator-_ep_41.html
If those things aren't fused, they should be. Putting in a little fuse block (like https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K2MBPA/) fixes both issues -- easy fusing + tidy.
I went with one of these.
Highly recommended by other dwellers and This blog has a great review on it.
If you do decide to go with an auxiliary panel, these have been working very well on my Jeep project and I wouldn't hesitate to use them on customer vehicles. I've got one routing key-on power and another hot at all times. They're surprisingly well built for being aftermarket.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000THQ0CQ/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=28SKLWNIL5EQ8&coliid=I2HR7EF5SBDL63&psc=1
Thanks!
Edit: Oh yeah the battery. I decided on AGM because of 2 things: This will be installed underneath a wood drawer/bed apparatus so I wont be able to access it to fill it with water every month and also it wont be releasing gas into my camper shell where I will be sleeping.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000THQ0CQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have a Mossberg 590A1 (18" barrel / bead sight) with...
Loaded with Federal Tactical Law Enforcement 8-pellet 00 buckshot. I'm very happy with it.
Don't forget to practice frequently with whatever you end up choosing.
Will do. https://www.amazon.com/BEP-701-Battery-Switches-On-Off/dp/B005DUUL9W/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1521649402&sr=8-7&keywords=battery+cutoff
And yeah, the idea is to not kill myself. This is my first large project, although I have messed with low voltage stuff in the form of robotics for years.
This sub has been very helpful. I mean except for the shitter who keeps on hoping I die, thats not very helpful.
I don't think the 4th one would work, but any of the others should, if you can get the wiring figured out. As for a disconnect, try:
http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Voltage-Disconnect/dp/B00GZOP53M/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1458696594&sr=8-5&keywords=low+voltage+disconnect
When paddling at night, you're supposed to have bow and stern lights. Here's a set that I got off of amazon. If you look in the reviews, you'll see pictures of people and how they have them attached to their yaks. Of course you can always visit the youtube, or even search this sub for light ideas and setups.
Edit: have a friend who uses this kind of light he likes it because he can just suction it on when he wants. He's tied a string/rope to it, and affixed it to the handle so if it loses suction he doesn't lose the light (despite it being able to float).
For something like the chicken coup look up Blue Sea fuse blocks. They just take automotive fuses.
Blue Sea Systems 5035 ST Blade 6 Independent Circuit Fuse Block with Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006VELERM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qzcJBbGV5KY2Q
I have a primer bulb on mine. Here’s a link to one, though u need to measure for the correct size. Just splice it in your gas line.
attwood Primer Bulb 3/8", https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0053HP43I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_j8QOBb0PYZAE0
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-5025-Blade/dp/B000THQ0CQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498570433&sr=8-1&keywords=blue+sea+fuse+block
Nice, glad to hear she is back up and running! I've had a slow battery drain in my tow vehicle for years. It will kill a battery while sitting over the course of about 3 weeks. After days of fruitless searches trying to find the drain, I eventually just broke down and left it hooked up to a battery tender so that it was always at full charge when I needed it. For my case, a Battery Tender jr. with a cigarette lighter adapter has worked great for me for over 10 years now. If your boat is not protected from the elements, you could also consider the water proof version of the battery tender.
One last thought that has saved me from worrying about any of this on my boat is to install a battery switch, so that you can simply turn off all connections to the battery when you are not using the boat. I currently use this one with two group 27 batteries. You could do something similar if you suspect you have a power drain. You do not need to add the second battery if you don't want, instead you can just get a simple on off switch like this. Though it is nice peace of mind when you are offshore to know you have a backup. Happy boating! Let me know if you have any more questions.
This is a 50 amp 125V plug. You can't step down from 50 amp to 30 amp unless you have a pigtail like this: https://www.amazon.com/AMRM-121A-Marinco-Pigtail-Adapter-Locking/dp/B079TYS7BB
Nope, that's pretty much exactly what I would've done if I'd been any more confident in my "electrician skills" ... instead I bought and put this adapter on the plug instead.
It seems to be working just fine and not tripping any circuits (yet), so there's that. I'm honestly more worried about the electricity code aspect of it.
Innovative Lighting Portable LED Bow Light with Suction Cup https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00108UN9Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_d6cqzb2YBKT8K
1.
Which wires specifically? In general, I was planning on going for heat-shrink solder terminal connectors and crimp connectors.
One of the reasons I posted this is because there are quite a few connectors and I am still not entirely 100% sure what I need. Obviously when screwing something in to a screw terminal block, the ring crimp connectors. But when joining wires, I would prefer to use the heat-shrink-solder type, but there are also butts and blades (heh).
I bought this set of terminals, figured I'd need them anyways: Assorted crimp terminals
I am probably going to buy this set of solder terminals: Fancy solder terminals
I am pretty good at soldering (though usually circuit boards, not automotive wires, hence not entirely knowing what to do.) I have easy access to a heat gun as well.
2.
Well, both - the breaker goes on the battery, and it sets the maximum amperage for the entire new fuse block and everything attached to it. The fuses go for each individual circuit. I want to use just one fuse for each circuit, instead of having several different circuits sitting on the same fuse, largely for my own desire for neatness and debug-ability. I could have one main fuse instead of the main breaker, but I figure that they will serve the same function and I may as well go for the re-usable option.
I was going to go for this breaker: Fat breaker
That said, I bought this fuse kit, which includes up to a 35A fuse, which will be more than enough. I also bought this fuse holder, in case I decide to use one main fuse instead of one main breaker. (I figured I'd need both of these anyways for some project, may as well get them even if I don't use them right now.)
Fuse Kit
In-line Fuse Holder
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In general, I think my system will basically look like this:
Battery 12V + Breaker = safe 12V
Save 12V + ignition 12V (do I need a fuse here?) + Relay = ignition-switched 12V
Ignition-hot 12V + Fuse Block + ATC/ATO Fuses = eight fused circuits
Fused circuits, obviously, feeding from above. I will probably add a 20A switch in line with high-power circuits, just in case, as an emergency switch.
Fused circuits will terminate at something like this Ground Bar.
 
What do you think of this proposed setup?
I do realize that it's kind of overkill for what I want.
But you can probably agree that overkill is better than your car burning down!
Try and find if there is a parasitic draw:
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a5859/how-to-stop-car-battery-drains/
If you don't want to find the cause of the drain just put in a battery disconnect switch. You could run it all the way to the cabin of the car so you don't need to open/close the hood every time you start the car and turn it off.
For under the hood: http://www.harborfreight.com/battery-disconnect-switch-97853.html
For mounting in car (you'll need to run two wires from battery to this switch): http://www.amazon.com/Marinco-701-Battery-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B005DUUL9W/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1452027739&sr=1-8&keywords=remote+battery+disconnect
Super fancy remote controlled one; http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Prog-Brain-T3-Protector/dp/B000P4H9W8/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1452027739&sr=1-1&keywords=remote+battery+disconnect
Your battery shouldn't have too many connections. So either add it inline to an existing circuit with capacity or add a fuse block.
One of these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SE6Z2WI/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
and something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Marine-Grade-Socket-Cigarette-Lighter/dp/B0112KJ09S/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1502844361&sr=1-3&keywords=usb+12+volt
OK, we are going to try to get one of these. How to I know which one is the correct one?
https://www.amazon.com/Perko-8501DP-Marine-Battery-Selector/dp/B00144B6AE/ref=lp_2598388011_1_1?srs=2598388011&ie=UTF8&qid=1554134911&sr=8-1
I suppose the cables go on the same way?
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Have you seen this?
Sterling BB1230-12 Volt, 30 Amps - Pro Batt Ultra Battery to Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071DMV7PF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Xg9RCb3FA8T5T
Its able to charge LFP AGM etc, theres only 2 reviews and one is probably from the company, but it seems like a great solution. The issue is that its not readily set up for direct solar hookup and you need an extra MPPT charge controller for that.