Best boat hardware according to redditors

Here's the /r/autodetailing answer for you:

• Pretty much everything in there is plastic. Literally everything. Don't stress too much about the materials, you'll know the difference.
  
  
• Wipe down most things with a damp microfiber cloth, this will get 99% of it
  
  
• If water won't get it clean, use an automotive all purpose cleaner and a microfiber towel
  
  
• Use a glass cleaner without ammonia (like Invisible Glass) to wipe down the glass and mirrors. Ammonia, like found in normal Windex, can cause issues with window tint.
  
  
• If you're going the extra mile, use a product like 303 Aerospace Protectant to give the plastic a little UV protection.
  
  
• If you want to really get into this, join us at /r/autodetailing and check out Larry's video about interior detailing on YouTube

That cooking spray on your door seals is going to ruin the car as well.

Use a proper rubber treatment instead like this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/303-Products-30350-Aerospace-Protectant/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1419967946&sr=8-2&keywords=303+aerospace+cleaner

303 Aerospace Protectant

I'd try some type of glossy interior detailer. It will cover it up and possibly restore some of the oils back into the plastic.

​

This is good stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Aerospace-Protectant-Furniture/dp/B000XBCURW

​

If it's painted, you might be out of luck. It looks like bare plastic in the pic but I just saw you comment about taking the paint off.

I keep everything in my hydration pack, all zippers locked with these. They are kind of difficult to open without feeling it being messed with. Depending on where I am, I will carry it in front as opposed to my back. So far it has been a successful tactic for me.

I can’t tell from the picture, is the enamel etched or not? If it’s etched it’ll take a professional restore job. If not you can try this: Holikme 14Piece Drill Brush Attachments Set, Scrub Pads & Sponge,Buffing Pads，Power Scrubber Brush with Extend Long Attachment，Car Polishing Pad Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P7NFV1F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DE2VDb4TJ78JB

I’ve also used rubbing compound with some success. This one is very good. 3M Marine Compound and Finishing Material (06044) - For Boats and RVs - 32 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZ9J0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wI2VDb4VJXRS0

Power tools will be your friend in this. Also some strong arms. Good luck.

I'd recommend giving it a regular spray of 303 Aerospace UV Protectant. Seems to do pretty well at keeping black plastic and trim from breaking down and getting ugly.

We love our popup, it's a 2001 Flagstaff that is only a couple years old to us, but was well cared for by the previous owners. I live up north so keeping food out of it so mice aren't lured in in the winter is a big priority up here.

Really there isn't much to keeping them nice. If you are able to keep it stored out of the weather when you're not camping with it, that will really help it hold up longer. If you ever have to pack up while the canvas is damp or wet be sure to pop it back up to dry fully when you get home. I would also use something like 303 protectant to cover the solid vinyl portions of the tent if you have that material. https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Protectant-Plastic-Fiberglass/dp/B000XBCURW

We pretty much never eat in ours and never cook in ours. It's so much easier to cook and eat outside and it keeps food from getting on cushions and prevents crumbs from luring in mice like I stated above.

It sounds like you plan on camping mostly with power based on your AC requirement, if you will be at more primitive sites every be sure you have a good battery. If you were serious about getting the most out of your battery you'd want to switch to LED lights and install dual 6v batteries.

http://popupportal.com is a useful resource.

I have this toy, its definitely one of my crown jewels/favorite out of my collection, OPs picture leaves a bit to be desired in the posing and environment department, but it is truly impressive. If you do decide to go after it it, there are two versions - the 2nd release with "sound" is the one you want. The first release is less detailed and had defective rubber. Even if you do have/get the newer release I highly recommend a yearly treatment of "303 aerospace protectant" on all the rubber parts of this, particularly the head/dome.

Seriously, Armor-All is the worst product.

Use this instead.

http://www.amazon.com/Mount-RAM-B132R-Drink-Holder-U-Bolt/product-reviews/B000WJ3I1M/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1

If you straighten the arm out (and keep it straight for a week) about once a month you should be good. Also try this stuff to preserve rubber skin and keep it moisturized:


https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Aerospace-Protectant-Furniture/dp/B000XBCURW

I use Kroil because I bought 2 cans when they were on sale...seems to work really well, no complaints. But same idea.

Also, I find having some silicone spray lubricant is handy to keep around. Whenever something is frictiony, I give it a spray. There might be something better than it, but it's worked well for me.

3rdly, I like to have a good plastic cleaner/conditioner. Keeps plastics looking pretty inside and out: http://www.amazon.com/303-Products-30350-Aerospace-Protectant/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398726066&sr=8-1&keywords=plastic+conditioner

Lastly, I use Folex for all my carpet/upholstery cleaning needs. It is amazing...Price has been going up recently though:(. I hate that I'm only 28 and I've watched the price of gas/milk/eggs/paint/engine oil/etc more than quadruple in my short life...I don't know how I'm going to handle being 50-60-70...gonna complain so much.

Have you done the previous maintenance intervals? i.e. fluid flushes (transmission, coolant, brake fluid, spark plugs)? Recommend using DOT 5.1 brake fluid, and long life coolant/trans fluid.

Not sure on the civic, but if it uses a timing chain (which it probably does) it's probably due for an adjustment. If it uses a belt you need to change that ASAP. Honda lists their belt replacement at 7 years or 110k miles, whichever comes first.

Might be a good time to replace the battery before it leaves you stranded.

For other minor things, I would:

• Make sure your air filter and cabin air filter are replaced
  
• Apply 303 UV protectant to all your plastic panels and rubber gaskets (301 aerospace spray)
  
• Spray anti-corrosion spray on your battery terminals
  
• Wash, clay bar, and wax your car with a good sealant
  
• Wet sand and polish your headlights
  
  

Eek that looks rough. I'd use a fine cloth and this stuffuse it sparingly and be gentle when cleaning the suit.

As a fellow Steeler fan in Texas (with a Terrible Towel near my office window), I sprayed a heavy coating of this on it. Seems to be holding up just fine.

Something like this for the leather works good, use it on my car periodically. Also something like this for the plastic trim, and you're all set.

On Amazon, there are two :

https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Aerospace-Protectant-Furniture/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=sr_1_5? This one w/o UV Protection

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And one with:

https://www.amazon.com/303-30382-Protectant-plastic-finished/dp/B0185PU38A/ref=sr_1_6?

​

Which one do you all prefer???

The only thing I can help with is floor mats. Get WeatherTech floor mats. They fit the best and hold a ton of water/mud/whatever. Use some 303 Protectant on them and they will look brand new for a very long time.

303 protectant is also excellent for your dash and any interior plastic. It's like sunscreen for your interior and won't dry out your dash like armor all or other petroleum based protectants. Also doesn't leave a super glossy finish like armor all, that just attracts dust right after you put it on.

303 aerospace protectant restores the gloss. I used it on the black plastic on my 2018 xlt.

303 (30306) Aerospace Protectant, UV Protectant for Boats and Patio Furniture, 32 fl. Oz(package may vary)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yXJxDbNNYKNME

I’ve owned wake boats for 10 years, and even though the covers/biminis all come with Sunbrella fabric, there’s a factory weatherproof coating that eventually wears off within 2-3 years. For this reason, every year I’ll purchase some 303 fabric guard (303 (30674) Fabric Guard, 128 Fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AY1W7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fuPLAbXEA2E2N) and use a Solo sprayer (Solo 418 One-Hand Pressure Sprayer, 1-Liter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BX4VXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wvPLAbCWFXXM0) to coat the cover a few times. I take it off the boat and drape it over on a few lawn chairs to let it cook in the sun. The rain/water will bead off like new for the season.

If you live in a place where road salt is used, take the car through a wash when it's above freezing and not showing during the winter. Make sure you choose the option that will spray off your underbody.

And NEVER take the thing through a regular car wash (a quick-service one that has machines or people touching it). This will damage your paint/glass as the dirt from every car before you gets smeared into your own. Touchless car washes are a much better choice and are pretty easy to find. They are not any more expensive.

I also recommend getting a bottle of Aerospace 303 and applying it to rubber/plastic surfaces that sit in direct sunlight. It helps preserve the materials from fading/cracking and adds a nice subtle sheen.

If you really want to go crazy, jump down the r/autodetailing rabbithole.

its so weird when two people have such different experiences.


Goretex needs care to stay effective.

https://i.imgur.com/r4plt1f.png

source: https://www.gore-tex.com/blog/restore-durable-water-repellency-raingear


You can also apply a new protective layer with a product like 303 fabric guard https://www.amazon.com/303-30604CSR-Fabric-Trigger-Sprayer/dp/B000221H08/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=303+fabric+guard&qid=1551369997&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

I use that stuff on my cloth soft top of my car with great results as well as shoes I want to add or refresh water repellancy.




as far as the grip, yeah they aren't as grippy as some other hiking shoes ive used but they really are comfortable out of the box.

This is what I use. It leaves a pleasant shine but is not overly greasy like armorall wipes. Seems to last forever too. Added benefit of protecting your dash from UV rays. It's a little expensive but a bottle will last you forever. You need like 4 or 5 squirts to do the whole dash.

I own a couple Perception Sound 10.5's which are the same thing but without the extra fishing gear that Dick's slaps on to sell them as the Hook 10.5.

1. Agreed, these boats go through waves and rapids instead of over, and while the website says class 1 and 2 capable, you're gonna get wet and I wouldn't push it either, try to avoid.
   
   1. They're fun, but one should be careful, and avoid bigger ones. Also strap your stuff down if you're gonna take gear, no sense in losing it. Is fun to punch through waves and get wet on a hot summer day for sure.
      
   2. If I was going to keep using my Sound 10.5, I was going to invest in a bilge pump. I have since purchased and started using different kayaks, but still have the Sounds in storage. Debating if I'll keep em or not. Damn good little stable sit-in fishing kayaks, utility focused, fun floaters, decent seat, price was right, they got me back into the water sport and most of all, fishing again.
      
2. I keep em in my net which is that clear plastic/rubber style webbing, I have a couple sets of pliers on hand. Most of the time I would do okay. Bigger fish I would sometimes do over the side, for sit-in kayaks the Sound/Hook 10.5 are pretty stable, but can feel pretty tippy of course. I was still cautious, this was never an easy thing with larger and feistier fish and this kayak, some may have more or less trouble with it. My new kayak is much more open and wider for dealing with these situations. It has been fun getting pulled around by large trout and pike.
   
   1. Pinch your barbs too! Might lose a few because of it...but if you hook yourself its at least less painful and messy of an extraction on the water. You may not have much time to deal with it when it happens.
      
   2. Maybe a hawg trough would be helpful if you can keep them held down to it. I don't have one (yet), so not sure if that's a good idea or not.
      
3. Install some hoops or kleets to clip/tie off to, tie to small carabiners or clip at the end of your stringer to clip onto the hoop. Problem solved. I mostly catch and release unless I'm out camping so not often I run into this. Generally if I'm thinking of keeping anything I'll bring a soft cooler with ice in that I strap down in the back. One issue with this kayak is limited access turning around. I really appreciate my new kayak more for being able to turn around and reach back.
   
   1. https://www.amazon.com/Mizugiwa-Nylon-Cleat-Black-Pack/dp/B01DYNMJCG
      
   2. https://www.amazon.com/Docooler-10pcs-Bungee-Screws-Rigging/dp/B01JU98V84
      
   3. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075V1JN52
      
4. My wife lost an expensive rod/reel combo to the small branch of a tree that grabbed it out of that rear rod holder as we floated under it. Didn't even hear it go...was totally ridiculous. I've dealt with some lake chop and had my rod/reel combos not been clipped down, I would've lost em. I almost flipped...but kept upright, pulled the straps to recover my sank rod/reels, cleaned em at home, good to go. The 1-carabiner + 3 straps solution is like $12 on Amazon. A small price to pay for keeping gear. I always strap my paddle to. I don't want to have to chase my gear if I flip, especially on a river. Even if it never happens, it's not that big of a deal to me to be prepared but early on it was kind of annoying to adjust to. Not losing another rod/reel combo though? Priceless. :)
   
   1. On the Sound 10.5, I used the 0-ring on the end of the seat back adjuster strap on the right side behind the seat support sidewall. Worked great, I was able to leash my paddle and two rods. I used some extra bungees for my milk crate that would clip onto the larger holes in those same supports on both sides of the seat.
      
   2. https://www.amazon.com/Campingandkayaking-CYBER-Paddle-Leashes-Carabiner/dp/B00MXJFXOE
      
   3. https://www.amazon.com/YYST-Orange-Paddle-Holder-Lanyard/dp/B06Y4RG4RH/
      
      Glad you got to have a good river float yesterday! Got some pictures of them fish? :)

303 Aerospace Protectant, I use it on everything

http://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Protectant-Trigger-Sprayer/dp/B000XBCURW

If you're scrubbing gelcoat, use gel coat cleaner (mild acid). It won't hurt the gelcoat and it'll get all the crap off and the boat looking like new in no time. I like StarBrite's offering in that department.

Whatever you've heard about teak ... I dunno. Sand it and varnish it or leave it weathered. Oiling teak is a hobby, you gotta do it often to keep that look. Honestly varnishing it is a hobby too, takes a lot of work every year.

I just rewired my whole boat. Most books are going to be heavy on theory and light on practice. Calder's book is probably the best one. I'm happy to answer specific questions. Wiring is easier than you think but there's a ton of best practices you should be aware of, it's all in calder's book. This guy has a load of good articles. https://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/boat_projects (He's super opinionated. He loves butyl tape and it's good stuff but having just done an entire rebuild, it's fucking annoying dealing with the squeeze out.) Marine wire should be tinned and you should use adhesive lined heat shrink ends for the connections. It's fucking expensive to do it this way but it'll avoid loads of problems later. Do it right or do it twice, you pick.

It's called a head on a boat. Just work your way back from the faucet. I don't know an easy way to do this.

There's specific ways you gotta seal windows, check with the catalina owners someone linked below.

I used this on my floor. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0795P9CMF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Plenty of grip when wet, easy to clean, and cheap.

Yes, as long as its a mainstream brand like whale. Check defender.com for rebuild kits. Usually it's one of the valves that's gone bad. Take it out, take it apart, clean it. Sometimes it'll start working.

Sunbrella, sailmaker's palm, and heavy thread. Just sew a patch on. For replacement cover, order one from Sailor's Tailor. It'll cost the same as the Sailrite kit but you won't have to expend a bunch of energy sewing it. Their kits need heavy duty sewing machine hardware anyhow, so having someone else make it is nice.

Someone else mentioned an Origo as a replacement. Mine boils water faster than my kitchen stove so I think it works fine. People with propane stoves talk trash about them but I've never heard of a boat blown up from denatured alcohol.

This is what I use. Just pick the size you need
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072XG893Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_S40JAbTEB864Q

https://www.amazon.com/MaryKate-Off-Hull-Bottom-Cleaner/dp/B0000AXNNA

There are cheaper places to buy it but this stuff is amazing on the seats. It’s slippery at first but if you keep buffing with microfiber cloth it works great. Removes all dirt and grime on my white seats.

ONR for the exterior.


https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Aerospace-Protectant-Furniture/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?adgrpid=60145955190&gclid=Cj0KCQjwyLDpBRCxARIsAEENsrKx8on96qpfRHIag_8D6tJ-sDAdT0AN2idoZQlnAnGnBIZe91MjLnkaAtmjEALw_wcB&hvadid=274872144872&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9030034&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=15136836626326077358&hvtargid=kwd-296127962609&hydadcr=12191_10197806&keywords=303+protectant&qid=1563216687&s=gateway&sr=8-5

You guys, just get a RAM mount cup holder. Best aftermarket mod I've made to all my bikes.

Cup holder:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WJ3GLE/

Cup holder with mount kit:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WJ3I1M/

I'm new to kayak fishing but do understand getting quality gear. That being said I bought this one http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004D34EQ6/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_M3T1_ST1_dp_f1
to get me started. I'll use it for a bit until I find what exactly I want in a paddle and then buy a nice one. In the end I may just buy a ~$200 paddle.

A few more things:


Camco 40043 TastePURE RV/Marine... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006IX87S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

303 (30306) Aerospace Protectant,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBCURW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Camco RV Brass Inline Water... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BZD08U?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

These are fun but not a requirement:

MPOWERD Luci Solar String Lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KYPDPKC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

MPOWERD 1004-005-001-002 Luci Lux... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076JSCMPG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Again not a necessity but I like it, keeps your water house pointed down not out

The Everything Candida Diet Book:... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BZD03K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Love this because depending on where you are, it’s really nice to have an extra water source for washing things and keeping dust down on the road

2wayz All Metal Body Garden Hose Splitter. Newly Upgraded (2017): 100% Secured, Bolted & Threaded. Easy Grip, Smooth Long Handles y Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019MS0HK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fOhxDb2J6NVSQ

I have been using THIS for my interior (dashboard and door panels). So far I am liking it.

I heard positive reviews of 303 Spray

Which one do you recommend? Or is there any product more best bang for my buck?

Thank you!

You're welcome. https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Aerospace-Protectant-Furniture/dp/B000XBCURW

Look, if you want to get rid of it, while protecting your car at the same time, get some 303 Aerospace protectant it will restore finish and protect your panels from the sun. Great stuff.

I have seen someone on YouTube recommend 303 Protectant Spray to repair scuffed dash on the Model 3.

Not sure if it would help and it's not cheap but might be worth looking into.

I personally don't like hard-tops so I've never had to maintain them myself, but I hear this stuff works absolute miracles on rubber & fiberglass.

303 Aerospace Protectant

I use the 303 Aerospace spray on mine. They still look a little worn right where my heels rest, but otherwise look pretty new.

https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Protectant-Trigger-Sprayer/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482181301&sr=8-2&keywords=303+aerospace+protectant

Congrats on the kayak, you're gonna have a blast with it!

You can find serviceable PFDs for around $20 on Amazon. Here's a decent paddle for about $30. Neither of these are the best-of-the-best, but they won't break your wallet and they will get you on the water.

And that's the point. It seems like every time I get on the water, something cool happens. Yesterday, I futzed around my local harbor for just a couple of hours. In that short period of time, I got barked at repeatedly by an annoyed sea lion and I watched a film crew record a scene of a guy being rescued.

Kayaking is neat :)

Cockpit premium is a great product. I use it every week or so on my dash and the rest of my interior as a quick wipedown product.

Also, 303 is only $12. What do you mean the price doubled? It's always been about $10 or so.

Modern auto leather manufacturing has progressed to the point where applying creams and oils is not necessary, and in fact inadvisable.

The leather is treated from the factory for durability and protection with something that will prevent it from absorbing the treatment. At best, you'll be conditioning your hands with anything you apply. At worst, your product will interact with the treatment on the leather and look or feel like crap.

If you use too much leather conditioner, over time, it could get into the seam, dissolve the adhesive holding the leather on the wheel, and leak a disgusting sticky mess all over the only thing you touch every time, all the time you're in the car.

If you have to put something on it, I'd say to just use a good water-based interior protectant like this. Always avoid alcohol-based treatments (armor-all) on your interior because they leach oils and moisture out of the surface, causing wrinkles/cracking and discoloration.

Treat it with StarBrite

Star Brite Waterproofing With PTEF 22oz Marine Fabric Cleaning Supply 81922 (1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FIHL83C/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_UYSXCbFC7BX5D

A buddy of mine uses this he says its really good he applies it every few months or so https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Aerospace-Protectant-Furniture/dp/B000XBCURW

I don't know what your budget is, so this may not be helpful. I saved up and invested in 5 pairs of these silk leggings
 

I have found that they have worn well over the years, they do not cause "static cling", and that they stop chafing of thighs as well as wicking moisture away from the body. They are expensive, so I bought one pair to see if they were what I was looking for, and then purchased the rest. I have had them for eight years and hand wash and air dry them.
 

There is also this fabric spray.

Are you sure it's leather? You could probably use something like 303 Multi-Surface Cleaner which is their replacement for the hugely popular 303 Fabric/Vinyl Cleaner. Same great product, just a different name.

Looks like the [exact latches I used in my build](
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DYJ4LWD/).

There’s a lot of clones of this types of latch out there but I can at least say I’m very happy with the quality of the ones I got!

Thanks for that tip.
The 32oz. spray bottle is cheaper than the 16oz. on amazon.

303 is just what it's called.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBCURW

http://amzn.com/B000XBCURW

That should treat your tonneau 3 or 4 times.

Look into 303 Aerospace to protect the synthetic leather and vinyl dashboard.

I don't have shiny bikes, I have bikes that get caked in mud at a freshly watered motocross track and then left in the garage for a week. S100 gets them spotless. To keep the plastics in good shape I'll occasionally hit them with some 303 Aerospace Protectant.

Far from the dirtiest I've had a bike, but here's before and after with S100 and an electric pressure washer on a low setting. A high pressure nozzle on a garden hose would do just as well.

https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Protectant-Trigger-Sprayer/dp/B000XBCURW

Use this on any plastic or rubber on the car.

I've not heard of that - but would this be it: https://www.amazon.co.uk/303-Protectant-Plastic-Fiberglass-Leather/dp/B0004ELKC4

I'm in England so maybe it's a name we're not used to here?

This is what I use. It's a little pricy but it's worth every penny in my opinion.

http://www.amazon.com/303-Products-30350-Aerospace-Protectant/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396471973&sr=8-1&keywords=aerospace+303

Buy any pair of decent in earbuds. Instead of using the foam inserts that they come with, buy a moldable earplug kit (like this one) and create your own. They will fit perfectly without pain for long periods of use and will be extremely secure.

Here's a video of someone doing it. And if your molded earbud needs any repairs, since they're silicon, you can use any silicon sealant to fix them. Like this one.

no its not the same. fiberglass is porous and its different in every way..I dont see a point in using a clay bar, you will wear yourself out doing that there are much easier ways to remove as much oxidation as possible before you start.


Wash it first to make the job easier, you can use an auto soap i use the gold line? i forget the name of it but i think it is meguiars goldclass soap. If it is reall bad use your judgment and maybe a pressure washer will be best for your job.


Determine the surface you are working with and what condition it is in, just like you would a car. If it is quality gelcoat it will come back even if you have white dust coming off from oxidation.

Another option, an acid wash on the hull, this strips the wax and gives you a clean surface to work with, removes rust, stains, etc. careful not to use it on paint. and be careful using it period, read the warning label and carefully read instructions..obviously.

Auto products are meant for cars and protection from different elements on non-porous surfaces.

if it has heavy oxidation and you are ready to start buffing, i would get a good wool pad (3m perfect it) and 3M compound and finishing material. https://www.amazon.com/3M-Compound-Finishing-Material-06044/dp/B0000AZ9J0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469508075&sr=8-1&keywords=3m+compound+and+finishing+material

this is my go to if Finesse-It is not working. A lot of boat detailers use that product as a last resort because we mostly work on newer boats but honestly most boats have quality gelcoat that can handle it no problem and the results are perfect(with the compound). if you are dealing with a newer, well maintained boat try finesse it (also a 3m product) polish.


auto wax is not meant to hold up on the water, fresh water and especially not salt water. I would recommend Meguiar's Flagship paste wax, it comes off easier than fleetwax and lasts just as long. if you use these products the boat will look great all the time! I hope this makes sense, im kinda tired and i wanted to get back to you before tomorrow. if you have any questions just ask !

Oh I see, I thought you meant exterior stripping. I apologize. Here is the link for 303. I use the gallon and distribute in spray bottles but for personal use that spray bottle will last quite some time.

Nice! May keep an eye on them to make sure they don't start fading. I know some of the micro-suede fabrics like to do that. I actually sprayed down (lightly) my alcantara to help prevent fading with this stuff

For leather, regular 303 Aerospace Protectant actually works great. I've gotten numerous comments about how well my leather has held up, and I attribute it to this.

I also do a yearly deep clean, and somewhat regularly wipe down with plain water. It may not be a "sealant", but it lasts quite a long time.

I've had great luck with 303 fabric guard. For leather, I've used Lexol for years, but recently tried Chamberlain's Leather Milk which is outstanding and waaaay better than Lexol. I've also used CG's leather products which work somewhere in between the Lexol and the Chamberlain's.

That Chamberlain's stuff is worth every penny of the $20.

https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Protectant-Trigger-Sprayer/dp/B000XBCURW

Would this be a good choice?

303 is a UV protection product for use on marine equipment and aircraft. Regularly coating inflatables with it after periods of heavy use is a good way to prolong the life of the product.

I've had my '12 for 3 years now. No issues at all, in Chicago. Something to reduce the chance of the dash cracking I use 303 sun protectant, it can be applied to almost any interior surface. https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Aerospace-Protectant-Furniture/dp/B000XBCURW

Aside from the CSC failure which is shared between the 370Z/G37 and 350(?), it's common to do a csc delete, multiple companies make the kit.

Thanks! just to be sure this is what youre talking about? And then just do a normal 2 bucket wash with it?

https://www.amazon.com/Purple-Heavy-Duty-Vehicle-Pressure-Concentrate/dp/B07DM6X5Q2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1540507240&sr=8-2&keywords=purple+power+vehicle+wash

Well, ok then. next time its going to take a bigger patch.

fwiw, they do make some washers or collars you can put on the head side to shield the bolt/screw, but its still proud and can scratch the board.
ie: https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=51736&familyName=316+Stainless+Steel+Finish+Washers




you could also put some padding (sea-deck) on the platform to raise the surface so the bolts are countersunk. or just counter sink the bolts.

https://www.amazon.com/SeaDek-Embossed-Sheet-Material-Midnight/dp/B06WWPKM3P/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1539259472&sr=1-4&keywords=boat%2Bdeck%2Bpadding&th=1

I settled on that shape because of that same issue. I was having trouble visualizing bending everything. And as far as fiberglass, this is the first time I've ever worked with it. If I was more experienced it may have been easier. I do like the extra stiffness/stability it gives to the structure. The working time with the resin is tough, and doing it on a vertical surface was difficult. And yes, the fiberglass is laid over the wood. The total cost of the fiberglass was around $170. This is the fabric I used

Fantasycart Fiberglass Cloth 6.48oz 59"wide in 50ft long https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M188N2G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PEwvzbDV1RKRR

And this is the resin

TotalBoat 5:1 Epoxy Kit (Gallon, Fast Hardener) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HR85152/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RFwvzb2G5NEZE

The prices have gone up a little since.

Standard 303 protectant is on right now, but the price kinda blows.

https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Protectant-Plastic-Fiberglass/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=gbps_img_m-6_f45d_94d38b6d?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=c624455a-ed52-4f78-9f81-675ed6faf45d&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=13887280011&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=01DKWAXBK8E5WDKDEV3C

Also this Bissel carpet cleaner, which Ive seen other users mention they have and like it for extraction.

https://www.amazon.com/Bissell-3624-SpotClean-Professional-Portable/dp/B008DBRFBK/ref=gbps_img_m-6_f45d_851dfabf?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=c624455a-ed52-4f78-9f81-675ed6faf45d&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=13887280011&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=01DKWAXBK8E5WDKDEV3C

Is your bedliner exposed to the sun? If so I would recommend a UV resistant product for it.

Such as 303 Aerospace. This can be bought in a very large volume, from Amazon, as well.

A RAM Cup Holder :)

I am not kidding. Here is a video

And the amazon link

Looking good! Nice work! Now that you've got them nice and clean be sure to give them a generous coat of protectant. I have been extremely pleased with 303 UV Protectant. It will not only give the pads a great shine, but it also will protect them from UV and hinder future mildew growth.

Does amazon ship to you?

Linky

The price here shows me $23. Edit: nvm I see it's 32 oz vs. 16 oz.

Any idea how that compares to something like 303 Aerospace? That's my go to for any trim/vinyl.

This is one product I’d use:

303 (30306) Aerospace Protectant, UV Protectant for Boats and Patio Furniture, 32 fl. Oz(package may vary) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xanSDbVC3S0F5

Heard it works well on car interiors in addition to tonneau covers for trucks.

UV exposure is what really impacted the fabric more than anything. I’ve got a different product I use on the rainfly for both my tent and hammock made by nikwax.

I use Aerospace 303 . I've seen some stores carry them but I order mine online.

I use it for my interior leather and plastic bits with Microfiber towels and exterior with a few sprays into the wash bucket. I also apply on my door/window seals to prevent doors from freezing up during the winter.

I've heard some stories of this being true so take it with a grain of salt. I don't live in a city where it will freeze up too often, but I apply it during the winter anyways to just be safe.

Here they are:

https://www.amazon.com/Amarine-made-Stainless-Holder-Marine-Camper/dp/B0097MF4DU/ref=sr_1_10?crid=11NOUHWQE82A8&keywords=cup+holder&qid=1555531053&s=gateway&sprefix=cup+holder%2Caps%2C209&sr=8-10

I'd like to avoid direct contact of water <--> wood if I can help it. If we were to epoxy everything, would something like this work? We used that combo for the fiberglass tape portions.

Most of the time I'm living in a flat so what I do it use a quick detailer (US link / UK link) and microfibre (US link / UK link) to keep things clean between proper washes. In fact I keep a bottle of quick detailer and a one of glass cleaner in the car at all times (I wrap a microfibre cloth around the spray head and put the combo in the driver/passenger door pocket).

Basically if you can catch any big, obvious dirt e.g. bird crap, early then it makes things easy.

If you manage to get some time, putting on a good coat of really hard wearing wax (US link / UK link) or sealant (US link / UK link) will be really helpful. It should last a year and make cleaning with quick detailer much easier.


As for the headlights, the yellow colour comes from the plastic oxidising. You need to scrub away that layer and then protect it. Toothpaste works quite well but there are dedicated products like (US link / UK link). Afterwards I'd apply some 303 Aerospace protectant (US link / UK link) which is also great for the interior plastic.

I would start with the 400 grit and see how much it takes off. If you have to use a higher grit to get it off, do a second sanding with the 400 or 600 grit when you're done just to get it nice and smooth. I will use some polish (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AZ9J0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) as well when I'm done, but it's completely unnecessary.

I recently polished and waxed my car with a DA and this was left on the trim. I then used the chemical guys trim gel on it. Am I able to clean it off with just a multi surface cleaner? I've got this this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0097MF4DU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here you go.

303's product:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000221H08/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Water beads right off like crazy. I just drove about 1,500 miles through Montana complete with torrential downpour in the pass between Missoula and Spokane and plenty of dust (my wheels are half tan, half black). and my car is a filthy mess, yet the top honestly is clean as a whistle save for a little dust.

what is the difference between that one and this 303 ?

Below waterline? Try Marykate On&Off. This stuff is magic.
http://www.amazon.com/MaryKate-On-Off-Bottom-Cleaner/dp/B0000AXNNA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395236334&sr=8-1

It's just concentrated oxalic acid, the same thing that's in many toilet bowl cleaners. You need to be careful with it, it's potent stuff. Try not to get it on anything metal. Brush it on, a little goes a long way.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MsEutXi04Bg

ew dude.

Let me introduce you to the solution to cracked dashes.

http://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Protectant-Trigger-Sprayer/dp/B000XBCURW