Best boat plumbing according to redditors

Pump is a 12v 35psi pressure pump I got off Amazon for $30. It is only on/activated when pressure drops on the line (i.e. when you turn the faucet on).

The unit is fed via a 25ft 12v extension cord from the cigarette lighter in the car or off the car battery directly if you'd prefer. On the side of the unit I have a female cigarette lighter port which is where I run the male-male extension. There are two 2.1A USB ports which are always on so you can charge phones and stuff, a master power switch for the lights and pump (just in case a fitting were to fail and cause the pump to run all night and drain the car battery).

Motor looks in very good condition.


Even on a motor that old there should be a plate with a serial on it, if you can get a picture of that and comment to let me know youve posted it i can take a look.


I work at A marina and have seen a lot of evinrude's over the years, but i think an earlier commenter was correct in saying this is 70's era.


Also The other comment about checking lower unit grease spark plugs, and carb are correct. Most likely it is going to need a carb overhaul, or at the very least pulled apart and thoroughly cleaned. If you are not confident in small mechanics look in your local craigslist for a "Small motor" Repairmen, typically these guys work on lawn mowers and chain saws, or other small items. But they should be fairly familliar with tearing apart the carb and cleaning it. Ask them before you take it to them though. Ask specifically if they will be able to reassemble the carb as is. As parts for a motor that old are hard to come by.


Also in terms of lower unit grease stop into a shop and pick up some 80w 90 gear lube. Order thishttps://www.amazon.com/Shoreline-Marine-Pump-Lower-Unit/dp/B004UOPZ9S/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=hand%2Bgear%2Blube%2Bpump&qid=1572987230&sr=8-3&th=1


The screw for your lower unit is at the very bottom down below the drive shaft for the prop, also once youve removed that screw there should be one just above the cavitation plate. i can actually see the top screw in your picture its on the top half of your lower unit. Remove that so that the grease will drain faster. Once it is empty plug your grease into the BOTTOM screw, and pump until it comes out the TOP screw. Pump a few extra times to ensure all air bubbles are forced out the top screw. Then before removing the grease from the bottom screw, replace your top screw. Then pull your grease out of the bottom screw and quickly replace the bottom screw.


It should be noted as well there should be a small gasket on each of these screws to ensure a good seal is made. Make sure both these gaskets are there and if they arent i would head for the local hardware store and find one that just fits on snug and is about the size of the head of the screw.


In terms of your spark plugs. Pull them out, and take them to a local auto parts store, napa, autozone, oreilys or something like that see if they have them in stock, if not see if they can order them. If you are not familliar with gaping the plugs yourself, ask if someone at the store would be willing to gap them for you.


I am assuming this is a 2 stroke motor. I would remove the old oil, and just replace it with new. Doesnt much matter the brand just any two stroke outboard engine oil.

After all of this, I would bet that motor will fire up and still run quite nicely. There really isnt much that can go wrong on these little older motors.


Oh if you have the old gas tank, pitch it. Get a new one. With a new line. Keep the line and tank around so that you can reference the connections to make sure you get the right ones once you are ready to replace them.

I think he does. High flow pump, low flow pump, quiet pump, crazy high flow pump.

Depends on what your use is I suppose, any of these can be controlled with a combination of transistors and/or relays. Can you give us any more detail?

Electric pump user here - it's super noisy, but flows great, even with the major resistance of two huge filters in the way. Admittedly, I bought pretty much the cheapest pump possible, currently $30 on amazon.

Been using it for years, works great, self priming too which is super useful.
Photo of install including filters. First is a 1 micron sediment (I think, it's been a while) and second is a carbon matrix. First gets rid of any sorta "large" gunk, second removes bad tastes, chemicals, you name it. Same material as pitcher style water filters.

Also pinging /u/dcdcd101

This fence line is just shy of 90 feet and my setup works pretty well at that length. I used pretty small diameter pvc so it’s not much weight; I can’t imagine reinforcement would be needed for the watering— maybe for the vines depending. It’s not a raging torrent of water it basically is just a steady drip but it saturates pretty well when run in cycles and not run during the heat of the day.

My initial version of this setup was a single battery and small solar panel and it ran fine for a year or more (granted I’m in SoCal so we get a lot of sun)— I’ve since expanded a bit to a 4 battery setup and larger panel but just because I added two more pumps for covering other areas.

Here’s a picture of the control box of a basic single battery system with timer and a simple solar controller
https://i.imgur.com/JOfGqdp.jpg


Here’s some of the basic gear:

Water Storage
===========================

Current Water tank
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003H9WJMI/

(Although I’ve also used smaller/cheaper tanks like this for my vegetable garden, just might mean more refills depending on how often it’s run: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BFC5NIA/ )

If you’re looking to go super cheap, I honestly started my first setup with a couple modified 5 gallon plastic water bottles I stole from my office like these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003B27RAA/


Power
===========================

Current solar panel for a 4 battery setup:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HFMBF3G

Previous panel for single battery system:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PFGP0EA


Solar regulator (keeps you from blowing up the battery! The smaller panel comes free with one that works fine, I just liked this one better because it had more lights!): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L37KZI6/

Batteries, one is plenty for a single pump system:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003S1RQ2S/

(obviously if you wanted to build a system on the cheap you could bypass the solar entirely and drop $20 on a second battery that you leave charging and just swap them back and forth every week or three, depending on how often/long you run the system)


Pump
===========================

Current Pump:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072BXBQGC/

Although I’ve also used cheaper ones like these for drip systems and they were fine:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07699RMVB

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WYMC492

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DLKT4OO


Misc
===========================

Timer (has like 16 stop/start memories which should be plenty for any configuration):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0090MTLFO


If there is some interest next weekend I could draw up a complete wiring/assembly diagram and detailed parts list and make a separate post (and include all the sundries: wire, hose, clamps, filters, waterproof project box, couplings, drip heads, etc).

Empty out the tank, buy a portable bubbler ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EYULIS?cache=fc8ff06c39fd52a9dcebbbe26dce6de3&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1415168446&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1) and put the fish in a home depot/Lowe's bucket of tank water (2 if any of your fish have attitude problems). Avoid feeding them for 2 days beforehand if possible and you should be good. I used this method to move my 29 across the country, a 2 day drive, with no losses. Pack the tank up last and unpack it first, 10g should not be too heavy but empty it anyways to avoid stressing the sealant. Also not sure if you use dechlorinator but if not you should get some before putting any new tap water in. Let me know if you have any questions, I am happy to share my experience

Edit: just saw your plants - I've seen people use newspaper to wrap them up but I just chucked mine in with the fish buckets and everything turned out fine. Good luck!

Covered or uncovered you should use a small bilge pump. They're super cheap and it's better than coming home to a submerged boat. Even covered if there's a small hole anywhere water is getting in so you'd need the pump.

This is a good one. You want one with a built in float or buy one with a separate float. Either way just know the 15 buck one is meant to wire up to an automatic float or switch.

The marine lab I've worked at/taken classes at is stocked up with these. They clip them to the sides of 5 gallon buckets. If they find anything interesting in the field, they throw it in the bucket and it's usually good until they get back. Good enough for them, good enough for me!

Also, OP, you live in Florida? Good news is, if a hurricane wipes your power, your fish won't freeze as long as it's not one of those weird out-of-season ones.

Anchor with a decent amount of rope. You can buy one specific for a kayak but if you want something cheaper, get a 5 or 10 lb freeweight and just tie a rope through it and boom you have an anchor.

A bilge pump helps get water out of the kayak

A net helps greatly.

A tackle bag or box would fit nicely behind your seat in the area that has the tie downs.

A fishfinder if you want to get fancy

Seems like a solid deal. I don't use my autospihon tip and also just bottle straight from the spigot, so I personally wouldn't bother with the deluxe. I'd also forget about the one step cleaner and just go with iodophor or star san. Stove top should be fine for 5 gal extract, especially if it's gas. You'll want a thermometer and I'd say 3 gal kettle sounds small. The kettle should be stainless.

I'd say next most important investment beyond the stuff in the kit plus thermometer and kettle is a wort chiller. They are a total rip off. Just buy some copper tubing (3/8" x 50') and wrap it around something with a 6-8 in diameter. You can hook it up to a faucet, but you'll waste a lot of water. It is better to use a pump. A lot of homebrewers seem to use submersible stuff for aquariums, but I think something like this is definitely superior for power and pressure drop by the dollar.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DLKT4OO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

I use this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Mark-PUMP-Galley-self-priming/dp/B000FHDF3M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467148309&sr=8-1&keywords=whale+hand+pump

It stays primed, so water is always available at the first pump, and it works great! I'm pretty sure you can find it for cheaper than the amazon price.

Adjustable Air Pump: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018CDR68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PeybBbG3WZGVG

Tubing: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002563MM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RbybBb2N07DFH

Also, a portable mini air pump (batteries required): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EYULIS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

You could get one meant for pressurizing plumbing, like they use in RVs, and then the pump would cut itself off. The extra sensor and switch for that will make it cost slightly more. Here is an example : https://www.amazon.com/Seaflo-Diaphragm-Pressure-Caravan-Marine/dp/B00DLKT4OO/ref=pd_sbs_200_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00DLKT4OO&pd_rd_r=4A04Y6ZT6ZEB16T5CMB3&pd_rd_w=sAONb&pd_rd_wg=ea169&psc=1&refRID=4A04Y6ZT6ZEB16T5CMB3

That's the most "fire and forget" solution. Don't forget to connect the drain hose back to the water tank you use so if it gets to that part in the wash cycle it won't spray water everywhere.

This type of pump is how RV plumbing works - they have a water tank, a pump like this, and then tubing going to the various sinks and toilets in the RV. Some RVs do have washing machines. So a solution like this should work fine without issue. You can use a car battery for the 12 V or a 12 V battery charger or you might have a power brick for a USB hub or something that can supply 12 Volts and a sufficient amount of watts.

No problem on the questions. I'm glad you have some. This is the unit that I went with that I got off of Amazon. I went with 1.2 gallons per minute rather than something stronger because that will help me conserve water consumption and still have enough power to take a shower or other things.
Seaflo 12V DC 1.2 GPM 35 PSI 21-Series Diaphragm Water Pressure Pump for Caravan/RV/Boat/Marine https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DLKT4OO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zPgIzbFHZ75EA

While the disconnects do stop water on the female end, that is not the configuration that I set mine up with. The pump is a pressure switch pump that will only turn on the water pressure when you open the valve a.k.a. use your hose nozzle. The pump wires up with a positive and ground wire, so in my configuration, when I'm not using the pump I have it turned odd via a toggle switch. Let me know if that doesn't make sense.

While I can understand the view of it not being food certified I use one of these anyway with awesome results. I utilize this 1100GPH bilge pump with a DIY keg cleaner made out of pvc with an end cap and holes drilled similar to a spray ball. It takes the pain out of using more PBW and the flowing water cleans surfaces much better with no scrubbing required. Just my 2 cents.

Basic, cheap, works for about a 5-gallon bucket. Requires D batteries
Marine Metal Aeratr Bubble Box 1.5V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EYULIS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IYpXBbVKYXBGT

Better.... runs a 48qt cooler. D batteries, cigarette lighter adapter or 110. Really nice.
Frabill Ice Aqua-Life Cooler Modification Aeration Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OW7K46W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_s0pXBbYYQDRQ5

So the 5 gallon water tank lasts you all day?

So, let's shave that 4 hour run time down to a mere 1 hour, and you'll have plenty forever. Building it smaller (since you're only building ONE of these systems) doesn't save you a whole lot:

Loads per day: 32.5 Watt-hours.
Days without sun: 3
Hours of sun per day: 4

Panel needed: ~25 Watts. (You only need ~8 watts for your load, but I figure you'd want to recover from a cloudy day or three with only one day of full sun, so that's where the extra wattage comes in!)

Battery Storage Needed: ~100 Watt-hours; a 35 amp-hour, 12-volt battery would be fine, and keep you above 75% SoC most of the time. Long as the cart's outside and in the sun every day, the battery will last a long time!

Charge Controller: Cheap 10 amp PWM still works.

A specific shopping list because I'm waiting on a video to render before I can get on with my night:

Solar Panel:

https://www.amazon.com/Monocrystalline-Newpowa-Quality-Module-Marine/dp/B01M9B6RQI/

Charge Controller:

www.amazon.com/PowerEZ-Controller-Battery-Intelligent-Regulator/dp/B074TB6FS8/

Battery:

https://www.amazon.com/Powersonic-PS-12350NB-Battery-Nut-Bolt-Connector/dp/B0010AI3LM/

Water Pump:

https://www.amazon.com/Seaflo-Diaphragm-Pressure-Caravan-Marine/dp/B00DLKT4OO/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1522996286&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=SeaFlo+water+pump&psc=1&smid=A3EBZ5HHZPL73

Wire:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0YDC6K/

This isn't copper, it's CCA, but for this amount of current really... :/ You're talking only a few amps at only a few feet, so it should be fine. (I mean, you're gonna get max less than 2 amps from that panel down to the controller, so really, you're not going to be pushing anything.

You can also use landscaping wire, if your hardware store carries 12 AWG landscaping wire. It's good for random small solar projects, or cut apart an old 12 AWG extension cord. (Or even 14 AWG if it's pure copper.)

Might I suggest something like this?
(http://www.amazon.com/Unified-Marine-50002323-Hand-Bilge/dp/B000FZ346W/ref=tag_dpp_lp_edpp_img_in)

One reviewer claims 50 gallons in two minutes. Understand that this is going to be a LOT of work, quick numbers tell me that 10x10x4 of water is 400 Cubic Feet, 7.5 gallons per cubic foot equals out to 3,000 gallons of water.

Assuming the random person giving the review of 25 gallons/minute is accurate, this is two hours of straight pumping, and likely much slower due to the height difference.

The real question is, assuming you can pump all of this water with a cheap pump: Are you sure it isn't just going to fill right back up as you empty it?

Your diagram shows a body of water off to the side, this very well could be the reason it has water, and you won't be emptying the pond anytime soon.

I'll end you with final thoughts on structural integrity, you noted it was old, any idea how long it has been flooded for? Most materials don't take well to being under water for for extended amounts of time.

Regardless of all that I have said, go for it! It sounds like fun! Blow a few bucks on a pump, and go have a good workout. :P

Relay and a wall wart with this -https://www.amazon.com/Bilge-Pump-Counter-Surface-Mount/dp/B0170QO2ZU

If you can’t find the original thread size and type, Check for the 3/4” rubber types you hand tighten - and 1” rubber types - always good to have a few -


Bait Well Plug 3/4" Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WOJ9EV6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lwQFDbWQMSMKQ



And:


Attwood 7526A7 Brass Handle T-Handle Drain Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZAOW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LxQFDb0EE4FC5

You can get a 24volt bilge pump. https://www.amazon.com/Rule-Marine-Bilge-Pump-Non-Automatic/dp/B01N3CCK8R/ref=sr_1_3/141-9178635-4986428?ie=UTF8&qid=1525187582&sr=8-3&keywords=24v+bilge+pump

I'd imagine it'd run on 21volt, or even a submersible 12volt pump should be ok on 21volt.

I'd try the panel straight to the pump first, maybe adding a capacitor if you need to get over that start up hump. Seems like money spent on a controller and battery would be better spent on a bigger panel to get the wattage you need to overpower the pump. The difference between a 20 watt panel and a 40watt panel seems to be about $20, less than the cost of the better controller.

Like, this panel wants to run at 18v, which is only 4v higher than the 14v the 12v bilge pump might expect to see in a boat with an alternator

https://www.amazon.com/Powereco-Polycrystalline-Charger-Battery-Charging/dp/B0711TH5LK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1525188017&sr=8-6&keywords=40+watt+solar+panel

If you're looking at a small 12v pump that's like $30, that's not too much risk in releasing the magic smoke. The battery is going to add another wear item to the sytstem.

After I smoked the first pump, I might add a buck converter https://www.amazon.com/Top-Spring-Converter-1-25-32V-Voltage-Regulator/dp/B079KDH8FS/ref=sr_1_6?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1525188405&sr=1-6&keywords=buck+converter to drop the voltage down, but I wouldn't expect to smoke a pump.

Are you mechanically inclined? I built one pretty easily that will remove ~150 gallons/hour of water. At high pressure(200 psi), it'll produce high brix output right off the bat, but the better option is to run at lower pressure(150 psi) and recycle the concentrate back into your source tank until you get an output of 8-10 brix. This reduces the load on the membrane, and reduces the post-flush to release the retained sugar from the membrane. Here's what I used, you'll need to fill in the details (pre-filters, connectors, etc):


Low pressure feeder pump:Seaflo 42 Series. Edit: This pump runs at high enough pressure to cycle through both sides of the membrane without engaging the high pressure pump, which is critical for cleaning and maintenance. After the season, you'll want to run a lye cycle for cleaning, and sodium metabisulfite cycle for storage (spoiler: easier than it sounds: Filmtec Maintenance)

High Pressure Pump: Find a carbonator pump on ebay. You should be able to find a motor and pump for under $150, it might come with an accumulator tank you can ditch. "Carbonator pump" is a good query for the whole setup, "Procon" is good for the vane pump itself if you have a motor. Here's one that's live right now: McCann cabonator

Membrane: Dow Filmtec XLE

Membrane Housing: Membrane Housing

You'll need a pressure gauge and a valve on the concentrate side as well. I initially went with a needle valve, but a ball valve will work just fine for the resolution needed. I mounted all of this stuff onto a harbor freight dolly with a few flow meters into a pretty clean package.

I can provide more details if needed, but some basic plumbing, fabrication, and electrical skills are required (Can you tape NPT joints? Can you provide DC power for the low pressure pump? If not figure it out, then come back and save a few grand over a pre-built solution. If you're not DYI inclined, the pre-built is probably the way to go).

Yep, that's exactly what it is. It's called a bilge pump. His has a hose attached.

If you HAVE to evac and you really want to save him get one of these and a 5g bait bucket from a fishing store.

Make sure the bucket lid has screen or holes.

Make sure and put a layer of substrate from your tank and load some plants in there. Stock up on batteries. Don't leave him in direct sun.

r/StormComing has good info regularly updated.

Source: Been there done that. Hurricane Opal.

I plan to buy this water pump after seeing it in a video recently. If I can find the video I’ll link it. This water pump seems to fit exactly what I’m looking for.

*I can’t seem to find the video. Maybe someone else remembers... the person was dwelling in some type of small SUV/hatchback, the theme of the video was that it was an “experiment,” his test reservoir was a clear Tupperware container, and he was outputting to a kitchen sprayer.

The pump moves water until there is pressure on the line, then shuts off. Once you release the pressure (open faucet/sprayer) the pump will continue to move water until you once again pressurize the line (by closing the faucet/sprayer)

I use this one: https://smile.amazon.com/Seaflo-Automatic-Submersible-750gph-Switch/dp/B00B0L4ONM/

This one has okay flow rate, still need to see how practical it will be. I'm positive I'll be ok though, otherwise replacing it with an electric one.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FHQL6K/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WYMC492

​

Got it as deal for like $12

​

got this running for 2 years now. Works perfect.

I'm currently producing 200 of these automatic boat plugs for trailered boats and personal watercraft which I'll be selling on [amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQPOV3K). If this is a business idea that interests you, I'd be happy to make arrangements with you so that I can bring a larger quantity to market.

Or, if we're just ordering shit off of amazon, one of these

I've used this Seaflo 12v pump for two years with no problems. It's about $30.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DLKT4OO/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8

Battery is good. I've tested the bilge pump running directly off the battery. I do have a cheap harbor freight multi-meter.
The pump only pulls 3amps at 12v. I figured the fuse block was a little overboard, but for a few bucks more, I decided to get it (along with an assortment of 3/5/7.5 etc amp fuses) and leave room for future expansion.
The big questions is the fuse block. Looking at it confused me. I assumed the 14 terminals, 7 on each side, running down the long sides will receive positive wire. But I wasn't sure what to do with the negative wire. The top of the block has 7 additional terminals, but I wasn't sure what those were for, maybe the negative wire? But if so, why are there only 7 terminals and not 14? I'm sure its simple and obvious, but I'm missing it. Thanks

Here's the pump: Seaflo pump

Timer and pump or [valve] (http://www.amazon.com/12V-Solenoid-Valve-3-4/dp/B007R9U9BM/).

http://www.amazon.com/Marine-Metal-Bubble-Portable-Pump/dp/B000EYULIS/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1465186864&sr=1-1&keywords=aerator

No, God please no! Do not do this. This will NOT remove all of the used oil. Also, you can very easily find a smaller version of what is known as a "plug" used in boats to keep water out during use and removed after use to allow residual water to drain (rainwater, water accumulated during use).

They look similar to this

Attwood 7526A7 Brass Handle T-Handle Drain Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZAOW/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_BzzEDb2F8DQYH

I know it appears to be a rather mickey mouse solution. I've done it myself on my own vehicle due to my monkey grip over tightening of the drain plug.

I’m using this pump system (SEAFLO 55-Series Water Pump and Accumulator Tank System - 12V DC, 5.5 GPM, 60 PSI, 2 Gallon Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QN8D18H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MuqEDbT7QAPAT)

I built a proof-of-concept table with just 2x4s and plywood that I stained and it worked well enough. I wish I had more advice for woodworking but I really am not gifted in that area

I have two of these foot pumps, one in the cabin and one on the boat. I've tried other designs but none can compete with these. Flipper pumps and hand pumps all leak, if not in a week then certainly in a year. Tiptoe pumps just don't move enough water.

I like these because they're hands free which is great for washing your hands, etc. They're about 30 years old & I recently replaced a cracked part in one of them so parts are still available and the design hasn't changed.

Both of them are screwed to the floor under the sinks with just the foot pedal exposed. Both are feeding simple filtered water faucets, the cabin one draws from a 5gal blue camping tote also under the sink.

The pumps are double acting, they pump on the downstroke and the upstroke. They move about 4 gal/ minute and can easily be short-stroked to produce just the amount you need.

As with any manual pump they can be sensitive to particles in the water that can cause them to drain back from the faucet - they never leak but if not used for a while you may have to pump once or twice to get water back up to the faucet (common with all manual pumps and even some powered ones).

They can be changed from right hand to left hand operation which refers to which side the inlet & outlet hoses are on.

They're pricy at $90 but well worth it.

https://www.amazon.com/Whale-Marine-Gusher-Operated-GP0551/dp/B00H93M3RO/ref=mp_s_a_1_4

No electronic valves anywhere, although in the future it will in order to refill the reservoir from a main water hookup.

Rule 24 Marine Rule 360 Marine Bilge Pump (360-GPH, 12-Volt) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O8D8QG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_S6O-wbNQYVHHN

I had the same problem with the viscosity. I am using this [pump] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WYMC492?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share) along with "push connect" fittings and have been fairly happy.

Just get a lower unit lube pump for a boat, and pump it out into an empty quart.

https://www.amazon.ca/Shoreline-Marine-SL52226-X-Lower-Yellow/dp/B004UOPZ9S

You can do propane for your fridge, range and toaster oven.


As for water pumps, double your numbers if you plan on having a pressurized system, if you're running a watermaker double it again, look into marine wash down pumps (if you're not running a watermaker), they draw 3-8 amps, or do it the traditional way and use a foot pump for water.


Whatever ceiling fan you're looking at is a MAJOR power draw, these on a dimmer switch draw as little as 1 watt and can run all night on a crappy car battery.


Have you factored your battery weight/location into your van, as it looks now you're gonna need a skoolie to carry that much load.

Gusher Galley MK3 Foot Pump... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FHQL6K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Mark 6 V PUMP, Galley self priming hand pump (MK 6) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FHDF3M

The blue and green thing is a Seattle Sports Paddlers Bilge Pump.

there are cheap battery powered ones

https://www.amazon.com/Globe-Marine-Run-Dry®-Impeller-Mercruiser/dp/B00CE7GU60

Can we get more threads like this please

Get a dozen bait bucket aerators like this one, place in bathtub, fill with dishsoap, run hot water.