Best boat trailer parts & accessories according to redditors

Easy fix...

https://www.amazon.com/Martin-Wheel-BK-1-Bearing-Repair/dp/B00C1ZQT6G/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1504886304&sr=8-4&keywords=trailer+bearing

and one of these...

https://www.amazon.com/Reese-Towpower-74177-Bearing-Protector/dp/B000CPCC4U/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000CPCC4U&pd_rd_r=8SB3ETSQRF2DC4K45F7P&pd_rd_w=uxYHz&pd_rd_wg=rkijq&psc=1&refRID=8SB3ETSQRF2DC4K45F7P

back it up further. usually my back wheels are 1' deep in the water with my trailers. Depends on the boat and trailer of course but usually you're going to get your feet wet to launch and retrieve around here. Also - they make carpet and carpet treatments / polymer slides. Just make sure you strap her down good front and rear if you want to slicken up the bunks. https://www.amazon.com/Trailer-Bunk-Glides/dp/B00CXADP02

Look for a local outfitter, the family owned and ran type store. I have always had the best luck with them, and the customer service is untouchable. They go that extra mile to make sure you return.

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I had an older Jeep but it did just fine ..I got some rack pads and tied it down bow and stern as well as side to side.....these work really well for the front of the car.

Look into getting something like these and tie the knot around them instead.

I'm 26 and 200 (with around 30 pounds of tackle, anchor, fishfinder, battery, etc. on board as well) with what I'd like to think is a pretty good sense of balance. I added a stand assist strap, and I can stand up in calm water to stretch and do some spotting, but anything more than that gets pretty darn sketchy.

I have yet to take mine into saltwater, but I absolutely don't see why not. It's actually 12'6", and I feel that the effective beam is much closer to 28" instead of the advertised 30". All things considered, it's a pretty quick boat for its class.

This is my mounting setup for my Garmin 5DV. I got a smokin' deal on it, which came in handy because RAM mounts are surprisingly expensive. Worth every penny so far though. I think the lighter-duty (and slightly shorter, which was the killer for me) RAM mount for a 4DV or other, vertical-screen fishfinder is close to half the price of the one I got though. All in all, a pretty easy install, just be wary of hidden costs such as transducer arm, battery, mounts, jerry-rigging hardware, etc. I suppose the good news is that I could move this setup to damn near any kayak (or even real boat) I want in the future with very minimal fuss.

Definitely cartoppable with the help of some load assist devices. Grab one of these and consider using a set of saddles that have rollers. I'm personally using a pair of Yakima Mako Saddles and a pair of Yakima Hully Rollers on my 2015 Subaru Impreza hatchback. If you're planning on using those sketchy foam blocks.... well..... good luck?

One important point to consider is that the stock seat is total dogshit. I bought one of these and added a 1.5" ass-pad underneath it and I gained worlds of comfort while still retaining a relatively low, efficient paddling position. I'm of the opinion that all of the fancy lawn chair setups found in higher-end kayaks, while supremely comfortable, aren't high enough to really provide much of a vision advantage while at the same time add a serious detriment to your paddling efficiency. To be fair, when I learned to kayak as a kid, it was through whitewater, so my ideas surrounding paddling are probably somewhat biased.

I seed and sawed on getting this model boat, among others, for months while I worked up funds for it, and then suddenly my friend offered to sell me his, barely used and with a fiberglass shaft paddle of correct length, for $250, leaving me plenty of funds to modify it to my liking.

This is always my suggestion for anyone asking the best way to have removable but effective tie down points.

Use these underneath the hood and hatch for quick non permanent tie down points. Sherpak 078115 Quick Loops (Pair) , Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024AVPO4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JDZIBb99AK3JQ

And these so you don't have to worry about dealing with knots. Sentry Ratchet Kayak and Canoe Bow and Stern Tie Downs 1/4" Grow Light Heavy Duty Adjustable Rope Hanger (2-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XVFDM5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IFZIBbHAJX6WB

Not what OP used, but theselook useful.

Hello fellow 'yaker! Greetings from the frozen plains of Iowa. One tip I have: I got a pair of hood tie downs like this: Seattle Sports Built USA Sherpa Hood Loops (Pair) - Under Hood Anchor Point for Tie Downs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024ALDMS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NyJxCb2WCCZXS

Find a bolt that goes into the body near the hood line. Then the straps stick between the hood and the body. I tuck them out of the way under the hood when not in use. Looks cleaner and doesn't rub on the paint at all when attached to the front of the kayaks. Happy trails ✌️

Nice truck! I got myself a pair of these a while back so my straps weren't rubbing...

Seattle Sports 078000 Sherpak Hood Loops, Pair (Black) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0024ALDMS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-1FBDb4Q6TRWF

Might be worth checking out in your case!

On my old car I used tow hooks. On my current vehicle, I use the tow hitch in back and there is a part of the grill I can loop around that includes the frame. I would not suggest just a piece of the body, definitely go for the frame where ever you can get to it.

Hood loops are a good and inexpensive option for the front. Use a bolt inside the hood then just pull them out or tuck them in when using or not.

I use these for my kayaks, but also not concerned with them rubbing the paint on my 06. They just fold under the hood when not using them. https://www.amazon.com/Built-U-S-Sherpak-Hood-Loops/dp/B0024ALDMS

There is a way (though not so easy) to haul kayaks on your JK - to address some of your concerns:

For easy bow line connection point - this might work
They mount under the hood and flip under the hood when not in use...

For the kayak/canoe to be on the roof - I've seen a configuration where:
There was a square tube mount that mounted directly the the sides of the windshield and the rear set of cross bars was actually a T rack that was mounted on the hitch...the windshield mount looked something like this, but I recall it bolted directly to the sides of the windshield in the factory holes...thinking more about it, I don't think it was a JK. The rear looked like this

As for seats soaking up mud...Its a Jeep! ;-)....maybe consider neoprene seat covers?

I'd go for a spinning combo personally, but a push button may be more your style i find they always get tangled and make it a pain to cast.


Go to walmart/bass pro/gander mountian. But something in the $30-$50 range. Depending on the age of your kid, those cartoon flavored ones in the pack may work too.


Get hooks, Size 10 arberdeen grab some bobbers Personally I like the balsa slip floats. Like this


Youll need some bobber stops too.


Get some Split shot sinkers


I'm a fan of 4lb zebco fishing line. it's like $2 at walmart for 500 yards. It'll give you line for 2 poles.


Now you'll rig up with your bobber stop, then bead, then bobber, then a couple weights and then a hook. Try to keep the weights about 12-18" above the hook. The bobber stop you can slide up and down your line and set it to whatever depth you want. If your slip bobber isn't pointing straight up that means your weights on the bottom and you need to adjust your slip bobber knot.


Pick up some worms or leaches and go to town. You'll want your bobber to barebly be able to keep up your bait, so you can see the strikes. If you have a big ass bobber a fish will never get it down.


These tube jig kits are usually a great deal too and catch anything. If they don't have hooks, you'll need jig hooks too. Something like this you could throw under a bobber too and try to keep your bait going up and down. Maybe put a worm on it too.


Here's a video where he uses some little jig heads and sutff too


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmOiylyTltk



Should be able to get everything under $75. I added it all to a gander mountian cart. They had some specials on rod combos for $24.95. My cart total was $71.92


Rods :http://www.gandermountain.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?pdesc=Gander-Mountain-Competitor-Series-Spinning-Rod-Reel-Combo-56-Ultralight&i=694266


How to rig a slip bobber: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAQUo7H4gYs

So there's a "tow hole" under in the left front, you'll see it. It's a metal piece with a large hole and a smaller hole. I use these hooks. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XVFDM5W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share ) . They fit perfectly in the small hole.

The back also has a small hole in the metal frame the hook fits into.


As for scratching, this is my first time trying it out. From the looks of it there was a very tiny bit of scratching but now I've adjusted it and wrapped a microfiber towel around the rope that makes contact with the front/back.

You may not be able to use this exact make and model, but this loading technique is effective. And really, you can duplicate it on whatever rack you have by removing the crossbar's end cap and using a piece of rebar steel (assuming you use a rack with exposed crossbar ends). This would be the cheapest option.

If you don't have exposed crossbar ends, then another thing you can do to load a kayak onto a normal car like yours, is to use a kayak cart as a "roller" by turning it upside down and placing it on the trunk or back windsheld of your car (depending on the shape of your cart and contours of your particular car). Video demo here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6wnzk1VOJa0

If you're not able to do that for some reason, or don't need to own a kayak cart, they sell something that accomplishes the same thing:

https://www.amazon.com/Seattle-Sports-Sherpak-Boat-Roller/dp/B009PAAI5I/ref=pd_bxgy_468_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B009PAAI5I&pd_rd_r=XZY5YQA7AXZTVQKZH3VE&pd_rd_w=zCMiP&pd_rd_wg=k1tUj&psc=1&refRID=XZY5YQA7AXZTVQKZH3VE

Hope that helps.

Also curious where you attach in the front. I got these, which I think will be perfect for my paddleboard...if it ever gets delivered.

https://www.amazon.com/Sherpak-Built-U-S-Hood-Loops/dp/B0024ALDMS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=hood+loops&qid=1557702207&s=gateway&sr=8-3

If you go the kayak route, you can save a bundle for your roof racks if you already have the rails on your vehicle.

These have great reviews on Amazon. I just bought them and used them twice with success. You can also throw in these loops for securing the bows and sterns to your vehicle.

i use the goalpost thing in the back off my hitch receiver. and i use the foam blocks on the cab roof. it works well for me. i tie the front down using something like this it keeps everything tidy.

http://www.amazon.com/Seattle-Sports-Sherpak-Boat-Roller/dp/B009PAAI5I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449468256&sr=8-2&keywords=Kayak+loader


Buy one of these

Oh ya, I saw 2 eyelets. One was threaded, one not. But what about the other end?

Nevermind, I will order a pair of these for the other end

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B07GF8FSF5/ref=sspa_mw_detail_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Check these out for more tie-down points:

Sherpak Hood Loops

Hood/Trunk Tie down Loops

Also, as others have said, you should look into a roof rack with stacker bars.

Get a yakima rail grab kit with 66" bars. The longer length will allow you to add things such as paddle mounts, strap stops, and even awnings. Plus more weight capacity and the boats will sit a little higher off the truck.

Quick loops are awesome for bow lines.
Sherpak Quick Loops (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024AVPO4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_l4CuzbE696JZX

LE KAPMOZ Quick Hood Loops Trunk... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GF8FSF5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share



FishYuan Sentry Ratchet Kayak and Canoe Bow and Stern Tie Downs 1/4" Grow Light Heavy Duty Adjustable Rope Hanger (2-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XVFDM5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_erFjDbWJCQMZH

You will need to attach something to tie the line on the front of the vehicle with. Pop the hood, unbolt a bolt, and boot it back down but with the loop in it. You need a tie to the back and front of the yak as well as two along the roof.

Edit: these https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0024ALDMS/ref=oh_aui_i_sh_post_o1_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Toyota Yaris hatchback owner here.

Inspired by an item I saw on Amazon, my DIY solution was to make a set of loops to slide into the rear hatch door. I did so using nothing more than some 1" nylon webbing, some old synthetic wine corks, and a sewing machine -- shown HERE ... 'zon version HERE.

As it happens, they fit perfectly in between the gap on the Yaris and are super secure. I would note that I use cam buckle straps, rather than ratchet straps, though. This ensures that I never over-tighten the rigging and damage either the car or kayak.

I made similar loops for under the hood of the car, affixed directly to the frame of the car using existing bolts, as a place to run the guyline from the front of the kayak, as to not damage the paint on the car (though looking at my picture, you might wonder why I care; horray sun damage!)

These have been awesome for me so far. It's ridiculous how useful something so simple can be.

Edit: Actually the pictures down show how these work. Here's a video that explains it better.

I have one about half way up on each side of the hood of my car (I have convenient bolts there) - I find that two tie downs at the front make it easier to see if anything is moving above my head as well as being more stable. I had an accident last year involving a failed rack and a 15 ft long yak, so I take the kind of care that someone who learned a lesson takes.

I agree with what seamus1992 said....just want to add....

Use pool noodles or some kind of pads on your roof rack. Two straps sideways, through your roof rack and one from and back. I use these for the front.

Hood loops for canoes are nice and really cheap
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0024ALDMS?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd

Don't forget to tie down the front! I bought a pair of these from the suggestion of someone from the mazda3revolution forums. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0024AVPO4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also wrapped the rope in some microfiber (where it touches the paint) to protect the car, but base don the length of the canoe, you won't need to worry about that.

I have J bars and a set of these ratcheting cords to secure them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XVFDM5W?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Thanks, good suggestion. I think my next purchase will be the Viper laser toe line (the sticker on the floor looks a little hillbilly)

I use a boat roller like this (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009PAAI5I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 , Seattle Sports Sherpak Boat Roller) to help me load my kayak onto my cartop racks from the rear of the vehicle.

I use these for bow and stern lines and I have two of these bolted down under the hood of my truck (one on each side) as you can see here. I just direct hook in the back of the truck bed.
Just remember that they are just there to hold the boat in place while braking or accelerating, they are also good for keeping the boat in place during wind. That being said, don't crank them down as you can damage the boat.

As far as dragging your boat I don't recommend dragging it more than you have to. I will drag mine up onto the beach or on grass a bit to move it but if I am transporting it more than a few feet I pick it up.

I would recommend these instead of dragging it up on the beach.
https://www.amazon.com/Brocraft-Launching-Wheels-Inflatable-Aluminum/dp/B01COKZU6W.
Also PVC is a lot more susceptible to punctures vs hypalon/CSM so I would not recommend dragging it unless you have a soft sand beach.

Regarding outboard, unless you have a hoist, you may want to go with something more manageable. We have the 5hp 4 stroke Tohatsu and my wife and I can carry the outboard if we need to. BUT the mercury 9.9 is a great little engine and fast. Its also quieter than my 5hp. The only systemic problems I know of is you never leave gas in the carb/float for more than a few days. Whenever you shut down for more than a 2-3 days, you want to run the engine out of gas to clear most of the fuel in the carb. That way on the next startup, you will have clean gas thru the valves.

Yes as long as your ropes and straps are tied off correctly. I recommend these straps in con junction with that kit.

Built U.S.A. Sherpak Hood Loops (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024ALDMS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oRUMzbPXKMCJD

I have a Chevy Cruze and an 11 foot kayak, what I do is first unscrew the antenna at the center of the roof. Most cars this can just screw and unscrew no problem.

I have 2 foam blocks like this Centering it as best I can. I try to put them right before the windshield and rear window, the area with the most support. When I load my kayak there is a small part that actually touches the roof so I just put an old towel under it to prevent scratching. The towel is pinned by the kayak and not going anywhere.

Next I put these things under the trunk and hood so I can use a rope to tie down the front and back. I have tried running this system without tying down the front and back and I would not feel comfortable driving more than a couple miles going <30 MPH.

Now I use straps like this and open all my doors and loop it over the kayak and through my car. Again trying to stay close to the front for more strength.

Then I just tighten the front and back ropes to make sure its not going to move left to right, and double check the straps across the kayak.

It seems like a lot but the whole process of loading and tying down takes maybe 10 minutes and that's alone. Quick drive around the block to make sure its good and I'm okay with driving for a couple hours before I want to check it.

This system has worked well for me and the only damage to my car has been the straps will move around a little near the door and leave marks but those are easily buffed out.

> Trailer guide

Like these?

I use these under my hood and in my back hatch: https://www.amazon.com/Sherpak-078115-Quick-Loops-Pair/dp/B0024AVPO4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1486403622&sr=8-2&keywords=hood+loops

And I carry an 18-foot aluminum canoe on foam blocks just fine.

Hell yeah! I'm going to pick up a set of these cheaper ones.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024ALDMS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MUSFDb5W4R8MX

Thanks for the suggestion!

> but I don't want to have to tie down the front (like you have on your fenders) or the rears,

It's actually under the hood and under the trunk. There is nowhere on the frame of my wife's car to attach something. To be honest, it didn't feel necessary to do the front and back because the mount held it in place very well. But, I feel like it's a backup in case the mount comes off the rack itself.

Get yourself some hood loops and make the world a better place for everyone.

I have the same method of loading except I use a boat roller instead of a mat. They have suction cups for attaching to my vehicle.

Seattle Sports Sherpak Suction Boat Roller Load Assist for Mounting Kayaks and Canoes to Car Tops, One Size, Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009PAAI5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KL3jDbVD31R0P

>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009PAAI5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KL3jDbVD31R0P

I have been trying for years